The Intrepid Explorer - 2nd quarter 2015 by The Intrepid Explorer

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 2nd Quarter Edition 2015

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FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME

Traversing 45 countries to Rugby World Cup

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A LEGACY OF HOPE

Tribute to Dr Ian Player

FIRE & ICE

Hiking Iceland’s volcanoes

GIRLS GONE BIRDING

Lessons and laughter in the Kruger

SA FREEDIVING CHAMP HANLI PRINSLOO LEADS THE WAY IN OCEAN CONSERVATION OUR INTREPID CONTRIBUTORS: Braam Malherbe, Casey B. Dolan, Jeremy Loops & AJ Calitz

The official Cape Union Mart magazine

• WIN! A five-night stay for two at Kurland Hotel, worth R23 100! • LIVIN’ IT UP IN L.A. – Hiking and cycling in the City of Angels • IN THE LINE OF FIRE – The heroes of the Volunteer Wildlife Services • SHARK SPOTTERS – Keeping both swimmers and sharks safe • LIGHTHOUSE FAMILY – Our beacons of life and death • EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED – Unearth the gems of the Northern Cape

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A JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY HAS ITS

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CONTENTS 06

FOREWORD

EDITOR’S NOTE

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

Working hand in hand to sustain our future

COMPETITION Win a five-night stay for two at Kurland Hotel, worth R23 100!

FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME

I AM WATER Champion South African freediver Hanli Prinsloo teaches people how to swim so they can better appreciate the importance of ocean conservation

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FIRE & ICE Matthew Holt goes to the volatile island of Iceland to climb its highest volcanoes— and hopes they don’t erupt

LIVIN’ IT UP IN L.A. Hiking and cycling around the canyons and valleys of the City of Angels, Graham Howe spots cougars and coyotes, joggers and dog walkers

LIGHTHOUSE FAMILY

EYE ON THE OCEAN

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

We catch up with the DHL Africa As One team on their 241-day journey through 45 countries to Rugby World Cup 2015 in London

Stef Terblanche visits some of the Western Cape’s beacons of life and death

A one-of-a-kind project attempts to balance the needs of watergoers and great white shark conservation

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C on ten ts

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GIRLS GONE BIRDING It’s lessons and laughter for Rachel Lang and Lauren de Vos on a bush birdwatching course in the Kruger’s remote Makuleke Concession

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

IN THE LINE OF FIRE The men and women who are part of the Volunteer Wildfire Services are keeping our homes, livelihoods and environment intact, writes Braam Malherbe

A LEGACY OF HOPE

THE GOLDEN AWARDS

SOMETHING TO WALK ABOUT Eugene Yiga takes a hike to the centre of an island to discover the benefits of slowing down

CROSSING PATHS

CLOUDY, WITH A

CHANCE OF ADVENTURE With the right clothing and accessories, winter is one of the best times to get outside— Nick Dall has you covered

ON THE WILD SIDE News from the outdoors

Angus Begg explores the diamond in the rough that is South Africa’s Northern Cape province

Ian McCallum pays tribute to legendary conservationist Dr Ian Player and his brother-in-arms, Magqubu Ntombela

The inaugural Golden Awards, hosted by Klipdrift and The Intrepid Explorer, are a tribute to the golden moments of friendship, perseverance and adventure

AJ Calitz swaps his trailrunning shoes for a mountain bike

LIFE THROUGH THE LENS

HIT THE ROAD, JACK

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We showcase some of the stunning works by awardwinning wildlife photographer, Jacqui Hemphill

The Big 5—catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles

CAPE UNION MART

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STORE LISTINGS THE LAST LAUGH Casey B. Dolan shops up a storm in London

THE LAST WORD We have a session with award-winning modern-folk musician, Jeremy Loops

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Explorer The Intrepid

Live the life of Adventure

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey@insightspublishing.co.za Chief Sub-Editor TANIA GRIFFIN tania@insightspublishing.co.za Advertising Sales Director KEITH HILL keith@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Manager KYLE VILLET kyle@intrepidexplorer.co.za Office Manager TARYN KERSHAW taryn@insightspublishing.co.za Staff Writer and Social Media Liaison SHAN ROUTLEDGE shan@insightspublishing.co.za

FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne

Greetings, outdoor friends!

trust you are all getting wrapped up for winter. We have just completed our first store manager’s conference for 2015 and it is always such a pleasure to see how passionate our staff are—especially about their customers. We would like to pride ourselves on the service by our store staff, and we hope the inspiring conference will translate into consistently awesome service. Over the past few weeks, we have had some good and some unfortunate experiences. We have had the pleasure of seeing our K-Way Down Jacket range soaring in popularity among our customers. We have seen massive bouts of loadshedding as well. Don’t fret—we have many lighting and portable power solutions to keep you ‘connected’! We also experienced two natural disasters. One was a massive fire that ravaged the Southern Peninsula and left it in tatters, damaging fauna and flora. We sent our firefighting heroes some hampers to keep them cool, calm and hydrated. The second was the Nepalese earthquake, which hit very close to home, as we kit out many hikers and climbers who take on this epic expedition, and have good relationships with the Sherpas and porters. As we say goodbye to the last few sunny autumn days and prepare ourselves for the chill, let’s also keep in mind the less fortunate as we enter winter and remind ourselves that we are indeed blessed. Don’t forget to Gear Up, Get Out and Explore the Great Outdoors! Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Editorial Contributors Hanli Prinsloo, Shan Routledge, Matthew Holt, Graham Howe, Stef Terblanche, Braam Malherbe, Eugene Yiga, Rachel Lang, Angus Begg, Ian McCallum, AJ Calitz, Nick Dall, Casey B. Dolan, Jeremy Loops Photography Cover: Annelie Pompe Peter Marshall/I AM WATER, Jon-Eric Munro Photography, Simon Geer, Trevor Wilkins, Angus Begg, Henk Kruger, Shawn Benjamin, Darren Stewart, Lauren de Vos, Graham Howe, Matthew Holt, Mandy Ramsden, Eugene Yiga, Karl Andre Terblanche, Jacqui Hemphill, Dollar Photo Club Back Office Support and Accounts Solutions BOSS (PTY) Ltd Managing Director: Rita Sookdeo Account Manager: Zena Samson Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer Creda Communications Distribution Cape Union Mart stores and On The Dot Distribution PUBLISHED BY

Managing Director: Robbie Stammers Physical address: 174A Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Websites: www.intrepidexplorer.co.za www.insightspublishing.co.za

No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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Our Intrepid Explorer

CONTRIBUTORS Hanli Prinsloo is the founder of the I AM WATER Foundation, which focuses on ocean conservation through human experience. The 11-time South African freediving record holder also has a background in acting and documentary filmmaking. Hanli’s documentary work has taken her onto the front lines of sociopolitical conflict all over Africa, from Burundi to Uganda, South Africa and Zimbabwe to name a few.

Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications over the last 25 years. When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm.

Andre “AJ” Calitz is a trail runner who has made his mark on the SA trail-running scene, setting course records at almost every race. He came to trail running in 2011 with a strong pedigree and has been a multiple All-Africa Triathlon Champion, South African Duathlon and Triathlon Champion and South African Cycling Champion. He also holds silver medals for Two Oceans and Comrades finishes. As of 2013, he became a full-time athlete.

Stef and Karl Andre Terblanche are a father-and-son team working as writer and photographer. Stef is a freelance editor, writer and political analyst living in Cape Town, from where he likes to explore the roads less travelled. This has taken him to experiences as far apart as a forest full of lemurs in Madagascar to a Mexican bullfight, and much in between. When he’s not travelling, he’s usually in or on the sea, hiking, painting or writing. Karl lives in Swakopmund, Namibia from where he travels and works as a professional photographer with an intimate knowledge of and love for the Namibian outback and wildlife. He was previously based in the UK and has been widely published, including in National Geographic.

After studying financial accounting and classical piano, Eugene Yiga made the rational switch to a career in branding, communications and market research. But writing was always his calling, which is why he quit his cosy job, freelanced until he was broke, and now works as a lifestyle and entertainment journalist for the online and print publications that respond to his emails.

Jacqui Hemphill is an avid wildlife photographer. Having travelled extensively through Africa, she has developed a passion for photography and evoking emotion through still imagery. Jacqui’s photograph, “Candlelit Dinner on the Banks of the Zambezi River”, won the 2011 Canon SA Photo Competition, and she was the first runner-up in the 2014 Sunday Times Wildlife Photograph of the Year competition for “Praying for Rain”.

Casey B. Dolan is best known in South Africa for her 20-year career in radio and television, but over the past few years has grown her talents as a writer. She is the author of three published works, having begun a writing career by exploring her own life in the memoir, An Appetite for Peas. Her debut novel, When The Bough Breaks, published in May 2014, sold in three territories including France and Spain. Her second novel, Unnatural Relations, is due for release in June 2015. Casey currently writes as columnist for the Rand Daily Mail and regularly guest-writes for The Sunday Times among other publications. Rachel Lang is a writer, blogger and environmental educationist. If she is not adventuring in the African bushveld, she is definitely dreaming about it. Some of her recent adventures include tracking black rhino in Namibia’s Kaokoveld, searching for the elusive Pel’s fishing owl in the Okavango Delta, and quad biking in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Rach has recently become a very keen birder. Her blog, Bush-bound Girl, is a collection of family stories, travels, interviews, poems and inspiring guest posts—all written on an adventure to discover Africa’s wild side.

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Dr Ian McCallum is a psychiatrist, analytical psychologist, specialist wilderness guide, a director of the Wilderness Foundation, and a trustee of the Cape Leopard Trust. A former Springbok rugby player, he is the author of two anthologies of wilderness poems: Wild Gifts (1999) and Untamed (2012). His book, Ecological Intelligence – Rediscovering Ourselves in Nature, won the 2009 Wild Literary Award at the World Wilderness Congress in Mexico. In 2001, he won the Agfa Wildlife Photograph of the Year in the Man & Nature category. Braam Malherbe is an extreme adventurer, conservationist, youth developer, motivational speaker, television presenter and author of the best-seller, The Great Run. He has been involved in counter-poaching operations as an honorary ranger for SANParks, co-founded the Table Mountain National Park’s Volunteer Firefighting Unit, and is actively involved in numerous non-governmental organisations and conservation groups. Malherbe has run the length of the Great Wall of China as well as the entire coastline of South Africa, and has taken part in an unassisted ski race to the South Pole. Nick Dall is a freelance writer who has lived and fished all over the world. Recent postings include Italy, Argentina, Bolivia and Vietnam but he is currently back in Cape Town rediscovering the trout streams and dams of his youth. His two-yearold daughter and his mortgage also suggest that he is finally settling down.

Angus Begg likes to giggle, but he is serious about his craft. A CNN award-winning television producer, he was the first South African broadcast journalist to report from the chaos of Somalia in 1992. It was these episodes in Somalia and Rwanda that took Begg the roundabout route to the fields of travel and environment, in which he now writes, produces and photographs. He has gone on to cover every aspect of travel—whether rural communities clashing with wildlife, tracking the Serengeti migration, hiking Table Mountain or searching for that perfect sauvignon blanc. Matthew Holt is a self-confessed list-ticker. He’s climbed the seven continental summits, skied the last degree to both Poles and, so far, climbed more than 30 of the world’s 50 most prominent peaks. He’s also chanced his luck at bog snorkelling, cheese rolling, wife carrying and bull running. A freelance writer based in Cape Town, Matthew is the author of two books: The Miles High Club and Life’s Rich Tapestry. Shan Routledge was born into wanderlust, so it’s hardly surprising she found her way into the travel industry. She has worked on the snowy slopes of Aspen, sat on the edge of the world somewhere in Utah, gone diving in Borneo, hiked volcanos in Indonesia and watched the sunrise from Borobudur. She also survived the infamous Laos river-tubing in Vang Vieng, swam with elephants, cried in The Killing Fields, island-hopped through Thailand and couch-surfed Europe.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Working hand in hand to sustain our future

hree major events have occurred recently, which have had a profound effect on my thinking and the way I look at the world around us. One was the passing away of the legendary Dr Ian Player. This was a man whose contribution to the conservation of our wildlife, in particular the rhino, has played such an immense role in shaping how conservation would—and has been—treated that future generations may now be able to enjoy and appreciate the sight of a wild animal in its natural surroundings. The Intrepid Explorer along with Klipdrift Brandy recently held the inaugural Golden Awards to celebrate and honour those men and women whose adventures have showcased friendship and perseverance; those who have bonded together to overcome challenging obstacles. All the recipients in some way have assisted in the plight of the environment, helping to create a sustainable future for generations to come and showcasing conservation and what can be achieved when we stand together—none more so than our Lifetime Achievement Award winners, Dr Ian Player and Magquba Ntombela. (Read more in this edition.) Dr Player’s source of energy was his belief in the spiritual value of wild places, which he saw as offering the hope of “a renewal of mankind”. It was an approach he learnt from fellow ranger Magqubu, a charismatic Zulu of royal blood with whom he started working in 1958. “I was steeped in the racial prejudice of my country,” Dr Player recalled. “Magqubu transformed me.” Then there was the second event: I was invited on a once-in-a-lifetime excursion with SA National Parks- and honorary rangers deep into the heart of the Kruger for a few nights in the wild. I witnessed first-hand the WAR (there’s no other way to describe it) they are waging each day in their mission to follow in the footsteps of Dr Player and ensure future generations get to see wildlife in their natural habitat. The battle is fierce, and the things I was privy to were very disturbing—but the way in which the rangers fight on a daily basis, their camaraderie and their shared belief that they will prevail, were clear and reinforced my hope that against all odds, they will succeed. More on that incredible adventure in the next edition. The third and final event—more of a revelation—was finding out I’m about to have another child. (Well, not me exactly, but you know what I mean!) This made me take stock of the world that much more consciously. I, too, want my child one day to accompany Dad into the Kruger and witness the majestic and awe-inspiring beauty of the elephant and the rhino. I want him or her to hear the calls of hyena and lion pierce the African air. Like Dr Player, Ntombela and the SANParks rangers, we all have our role to play. Please support every endeavour, however big or small, in combating poaching. Each cent goes directly to this incredible cause and to the men and women who are literally in the line of fire every day. We should all remember the words of an old Native American saying: “Only when the last tree has died, and the last river been poisoned, and the last fish been caught, will we realise we cannot eat money.”

Life the live of adventure!

Robbie Stammers Publishing Editor

PS: Don’t forget to LIKE our Facebook page, The Intrepid Explorer, and visit www.intrepidexplorer.co.za to download the free digital version of this magazine with loads of extras. Follow Robbie on Twitter: @daStamman

Congratulations to the winners of our last edition’s competitions!

The BIG winner who won a two-night stay at Imbali Safari Lodge, worth R17 140, is Debbie Human. The winner of the Klipdrift/The Intrepid Explorer Golden VIP Experience of a luxury weekend getaway for two to Gondwana Game Reserve, worth over R13 000, is Njabulo Manana. Alison Langtree wins David Grier’s book, India: Lost & Found – Madcap Adventures

In the 2014 Winter edition cover feature on the ‘Grand Slammers’ Vaughan de la Harpe and Sean Disney, some comments were made by the writer regarding Sean Wisedale which could be regarded as defamatory. The Intrepid Explorer and Insights Publishing would like to apologise for the comments; they have been retracted and removed on all digital and web formats.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Out a n d a bout

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he 5-star Kurland Hotel, in The Crags near Plettenberg Bay, is a perfect marriage of old-world charm enhanced by modern sophistication. Here the best of both worlds marry to create a unique experience of tranquil countryside and breathtaking beaches, benefiting from the warmer temperatures of the Indian Ocean. This boutique, luxury hotel offers gracious country living with just 12 suites that afford utter privacy. It has acquired a reputation as an exclusive hideaway located on a vast 700-hectare private estate of incredible natural beauty, situated between the mountains and the pristine beaches of Nature’s Valley. The flora and fauna offer guests an insight into indigenous plants, shrubs and trees and, of course, the famed Kurland roses. Kurland Hotel has been designed with exceptional facilities for family holidays and is ideal for romantic getaways, exclusive weddings and family reunions. The award-winning restaurant presents an ever changing menu and is perfect for decadent lunches and romantic dinners. Guests may also enjoy Katarina’s at The Barn, which opens seasonally, offering an

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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I am water HANLI PRINSLOO TEACHES PEOPLE HOW TO SWIM SO THAT THEY CAN BETTER UNDERSTAND AND APPRECIATE THE IMPORTANCE OF OCEAN CONSERVATION

I’

m in the tropical paradise that is Mozambique, at the bottom of a tall sand dune, with a 10-year-old orphan hanging off me like an oversized, terrified sack of potatoes. As the water gets deeper, she babbles at me in Portuguese and I speak soothing words of relaxation back at her in English. I readjust the mask on her face and motion for her to take slow, deep breaths—she’s definitely not ready for a snorkel yet. As the water comes up to my waist and she gets lighter, we catch a moment of flotation as a wave washes by.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

A giggle escapes her and I laugh along, “See? It’s not so bad!” I pull my mask onto my face and stick my head underwater. “Look! Look below!” She shakes her head emphatically. I nod vigorously, “Sure you can!” Just then Peter swims in beneath us with the underwater camera and I motion for her to put her head below and wave at the camera. The curiosity of a 10-year-old overcomes the fear of a non-swimmer, and two eyes open underwater for the first time. Gabrielle is one of 40 orphans living less than 500 metres from a crystal-blue ocean that divers travel from around the

world to explore. None of the kids can swim or have ever been snorkelling. Growing up on a horse farm outside Johannesburg with hectares of unspoilt nature around me but no ocean, I dreamt of being a mermaid. My like-minded sister and I played endless games of dolphinkicking underwater in the pool, growing our hair long like Disney’s Ariel and even creating our own mermaid language of squeaks and squawks we’d perfect from pool to dam to river to bath time. As soon as I could, I moved closer to the sea and discovered freediving. When I started it 15 years ago, it was a little known sport

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Ha n li Pr in s loo I can hardly breathe. I stumble, but regain my balance, shells digging into the soles of my feet, my lower back complaining at the extra weight… This may be harder than I thought! The water is only knee-deep, but the skinny arms around my neck are tight as a vice and eyes like saucers will me to stop, turn and back away….

considered extreme and practised by eccentric aquatic loners. Fifteen years of competitive freediving, 11 national records, and hours and days and months training up and down a rope, up and down a swimming pool, I’d had enough. There had to be more. And there was. So much more. On a small boat in the middle of the Indian Ocean, I pulled on my monofin and jumped in the water with a pod of spinner dolphins that local researchers had given up on interacting with. “They’re just not interested in humans; they’ll be gone the second you hit the water.” But with a

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six-minute breath-hold and the ability to dive deep to over 65m repetitively, I slid into the water, dolphin-kicked my monofin down to the bottom at 20m, surrounded by the pod. Excited, sleek bodies circled me, scanning me with their clicking curiosity, speeding up and turning on a hair. The skills of a champion diver were barely enough to keep the pod interested—but for me, everything changed. The following year, I founded I AM WATER. Growing up, it was a given fact that ‘black people don’t swim, they don’t like

water’. South Africa is a country of contrasts. With 11 official languages, nine widely diverse provinces—four of which are coastal—and two oceans that span from the ice-cold Atlantic in the west to the tropical Indian Ocean in the east, we are as diverse in nature as we are in peoples. Somehow, this swimming division was an accepted and understood reality I never questioned, as one doesn’t when growing up in a system expert at helping you believe untruths. Swimming pools were for whites only, beaches were for whites only, townships hardly had running water, and rivers and dams were

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Ha n li Pr in s loo off limits in case of the bother of someone drowning. The year 1994 saw us erase the race line separating the peoples of South Africa. But today, 21 years later, we are a nation separated down a water line. As I transitioned out of competitive freediving, I taught hundreds of freediving courses to pay the bills. I watched people transform before my eyes, from fear to joy, from diffidence to connection. Looking at Planet Earth from space, we see a small blue sphere, unique in that vast expanse because it is blue, because of the thin veneer of water that covers 70% of the surface. Scattered throughout this blue expanse we have green flecks of land united by oceans. More than a billion people live within walking distance of

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

the ocean. Land-locked countries see seasonal migrations of inhabitants holidaying by the coast. Despite this seemingly close connection to the ocean, both in proximity and a need to experience it, we have been remarkably slow at conserving this vast expanse. In the last couple of years, ocean conservation has come to the attention of the well-read and informed citizens of the blue planet, with topics such as ocean acidification, floating plastic islands, overfishing, coral bleaching and species extinction getting more airtime and international efforts to protect our oceans better. For us at I AM WATER, we believe that much of the degradation we witness is

PREVIOUS PAGE: Hanli playing along the sand in southern Mozambique, trying to entertain the local bottlenose dolphins THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: A huge whale shark dwarfs Hanli and Peter as they freedive off the coast of Ecuador; Hanli tightly holding on to the hand of a first-time snorkeller; A whole class of 6th graders in Bermuda get to snorkel on the beautiful outer reefs around the island OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Hanli comes eye to eye with the iconic blue-footed booby bird in Ecuadorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;this juvenile still has yellow feet; The satisfaction of seeing a child go from fear to fascination is what keeps the I AM WATER team motivated; The shallow sand around Paradise Island in the Bazaruto archipelago is scattered with fragile pansy shells

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due to people, individuals, feeling completely disconnected from the ocean. We stare at the vast blue of the ocean, stare at its surface, at its skin—thinking that surely something so immense cannot be at risk. Surely we can’t hurt that! Having watched scientists and conservation lobbyists share the facts, do compelling and touching campaigns, even having watched climate change whip our ocean into a rage that kills, our behaviour is slow to change. French explorer Jacques Cousteau said it, and every parent knows it: We protect what we love. And Senegalese poet Baba Dioum said: “In the end, we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only

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what we are taught.” Back to Gabrielle hanging off my neck in southern Mozambique. I initially believed this deep disconnect from the ocean I had witnessed in South Africa was due to our generations of racial discrimination; that this was a South African and possibly an African problem. I was wrong. In 2012, I was invited to speak at a TEDx conference in Bermuda and had eyeopening conversations with Bermudians sharing that they couldn’t swim; that kids who live a literal stone’s throw from crystal-blue water and colourful reefs have never snorkelled. As I have explored beautiful oceanscapes around the world, diving for a project where we meet large

marine creatures, I have seen the same: Maldives, Ecuador, Mozambique; my partner, Peter, saving seven lives on his first day lifeguarding in Los Angeles—all inner-city youth. We are expecting children and youth who have no experience of the greatest expanse of our planet to understand its complicated fragility, to grow up to be conservation-minded adults, leaders, decision makers—something they have never even experienced. For the more than seven billion people on our rapidly growing planet, solving the challenges to our shared, sustainable future is not limited to resources and conservation, but also fundamentally relies on the knowledge and engagement of

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Ha n li Pr in s loo Hanli swims down into a cloud of schooling jack fish in the ocean wilderness around Cocos Island, off the shore of Costa Rica—a clear example of the success of marine protected areas

As all humans are over 70% water, we are drawn together by the aquatic within us. We are all water, and we all share the opportunity and challenge to protect our last wilderness beneath the waves.

individuals. As all humans are over 70% water, we are drawn together by the aquatic within us. We are all water, and we all share the opportunity and challenge to protect our last wilderness beneath the waves. An important part of the solution is for individuals to have behaviour-changing ocean experiences combined with the knowledge that their actions can and do make a difference. To hear, read or see a picture of the beauty and devastation of the ocean environment can never replace the personal transformation of putting on a mask and fins, taking one breath and experiencing the salty majesty of the ocean, the strength of the currents, the playfulness of a dolphin or the curiosity of a seal. We need to engage local communities in the solution, especially those who are often blamed for ocean degradation when balancing their actions

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against their livelihood. Finally, we need a legal framework that protects the oceans and which is enforced, as well as a system for governance of the high seas which knows no national boundaries. Within this context, the mission of I AM WATER is to create a physical and emotional connection between the marine environment and all of us, the human population of the planet—thereby changing human behaviour and creating a mutually beneficial relationship that ensures the long-term survival of both. Privilege for me is measured in a child’s access to water: from clean drinking water, to learning to swim and, finally, experiencing the world below the blue surface. For us at I AM WATER, it is not only about ocean conservation—it is about the development of a whole person. It is about the development of a person who understands his or her role on our blue

planet and who experiences the great joy that our oceans have to share. Gabrielle takes a deep breath, lets go of my neck and bobs under. She still can’t swim, but she’s confident enough to float and dive and explore. Watching over her and her friends closely, we see their fear turn to fascination as a gaping parrotfish swims by; a school of damselfish. This summer, Gabrielle and her friends will be taught to swim—and suddenly, living on a sand dune a few hundred metres from a crystal-blue ocean is an opportunity, not a risk. Eleven-time South African freediving record holder, filmmaker and avid ocean adventurer, Hanli Prinsloo is the founder of the I AM WATER Foundation, which focuses on ocean conservation through human experience. See iamwaterfoundation.org and hanliprinsloo.com.

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SHAN ROUTLEDGE CATCHES UP WITH THE DHL AFRICA AS ONE TEAM ON THEIR 241-DAY JOURNEY THROUGH 45 COUNTRIES TO RUGBY WORLD CUP 2015 IN LONDON

game

FOR THE LOVE OF THE

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Af r ic a As On e On 7 October 2014, an epic adventure began; a grand and ambitious journey: reaching one billion people, over 50 000 kilometres, 45 countries, one continent, with one voice, one ball, for one cup. Three Land Rover Discoverys carrying the Africa As One team, sponsored by DHL, made their way out of Cape Town, with one vehicle named Princess and the other Nkosazana (because no one wanted to argue with Lazarus, the seven-foot, fully trained ‘situation diffuser’). The team aims to

reach London in September this year—just in time for the World Cup tournament.

he DHL Africa As One team is passing a single rugby ball from hand to hand while introducing the African continent to the game of rugby. With just three vehicles, seven people and 11 months to complete, this journey would test even the most intrepid of explorers. The aim? The team will be engaging in different activities along the way, trying to spread the word on rugby and teaching as many people as they can about the art to this sport we South Africans love so much. By hosting rugby fairs in cities and rugby clinics in local communities, Charles Brewer—managing director for DHL Express Sub-Saharan Africa—hopes the team will be successful in “delivering the game of rugby and what it represents, across Africa. More importantly, on a continent synonymous with the game of soccer, we aim to unearth a keen interest in the global sport of rugby.”

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Af r ic a As On e Not only will they be trying to infect Africans with the rugby bug, but they also want to share Africa with the world. Megan Collinicos, head of advertising and public relations for DHL Express Sub-Saharan Africa, says “[they] aim to showcase a little bit of Africa that many people may not get the chance to experience first-hand. It will all culminate in London where we will hand over the ball from Africa and, in essence, deliver a little bit of Africa to Rugby World Cup 2015.” In conjunction with this, the team will be distributing over half a million units of stationery to young children across Africa and providing free eye tests for thousands on the continent through DHL’s partnership with Mercy Ships. But it hasn’t been all work and driving for the team; they have experienced some incredible things along the way, from the local music and great ruins of Zimbabwe, snorkelling in Lake Malawi, to learning about coffee and the Black Pharaohs of Ethiopia and Sudan, to name a few. One of the many highlights of the trip so far was the opportunity for the team to roam freely with a wild troop of gorillas in Rwanda. On 12 April, it had been 188 days,

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32 500km, with the nearest country being Gabon—and they were still going full steam ahead. The longest uninterrupted stretch of continuous driving lasted an exhausting 17 hours. Louise Otter, DHL Africa As One team leader, took some precious time out of her trip to chat to us and answer some questions about the experiences they have enjoyed so far. African border crossings can be notoriously difficult. What has been the most interesting crossing? Kinshasa, DRC to Brazzaville, Congo. We had to put the cars on a ferry and then we had to travel by another passenger ferry. What has been the greatest challenge so far? Driving from Lubumbashi to Kinshasa; the state of the roads in that area really has to be seen to be believed. We averaged 5 to 10km per day, so this was by far our most challenging route—especially after being spoilt with great roads and infrastructure during the first half of our journey. Which country are you most looking forward to, and why?

I’m really looking forward to Mali. I’ve always wanted to visit the country, and recently heard from some overland travellers that it’s amazing—they spent 10 days there instead of two! What do you expect to feel when you finally reach London? Sad is the first thing that comes to mind; this is such an incredible journey with such an amazing team. I think it’ll be bittersweet when we have to bid our farewells and return to ‘normal’ life.

ABOVE: Exploring uninterrupted stretches of road across Africa OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Skimming over the sand to Lake Assal in Djibouti, day 40; Mohau Ralekhetla (Mercy Ships optometrist), Hein Ferreira (project manager), Louise Otter (team captain) and Ndumiso (director, photographer, cameraman & blogger) with the owner (middle) of a vanilla plantation in Réunion, day 83; Driving through the Namib desert the whole day, with the sun at our backs—day 91; Rugby clinic in Madagascar, day 89

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The team will be distributing over half a million units of stationery to young children across Africa and providing free eye tests for thousands across Africa through DHL’s partnership with Mercy Ships What has been the most special experience so far? I love to interact with the kids along the way; a simple game of Simon Says usually has them howling with laughter as I jump up and down, touch my nose and the kids copy me. Due to the obvious language barriers, fun and games are the easiest ways for us to connect. What have you discovered so far on the trip which you didn’t expect? I’ve been pleasantly surprised as to how well-developed some of the roads are. You have been privileged to visit with the gorillas in Rwanda. This was a really special experience. We hiked for hours through the forests and, when we first spotted the gorillas, they

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seemed so big, but not scary at all. We spent an hour with them, watching them eat and play. The time goes by in a blink of an eye and all you want to do is stay for longer—but, unfortunately, you can only spend an hour at a time with them. From beaches to deserts, forests to mountains—you really have travelled all terrains. What are the logistics behind this? As this is a DHL Express Africa initiative, it makes the planning that much easier. Together with DHL contacts and expertise in each country along the way, plus a dedicated logistics and security team, we spent months planning the routes and researching which areas to visit. We travel in three Land Rover Discoverys, so our travel is predominantly by road— we need to be in constant contact with

the DHL team in order to alter routes when necessary. How has this journey affected you all personally? I think I can speak for the whole team and say that we have all grown as a result of this trip. It’s truly inspiring to witness the resolve of the African people, and see how hard they work to support themselves and their families. It really gives you great perspective of what is important in life. How has the response been from locals? As we drive through villages, especially remote ones, everyone jumps up, shouting and waving—you feel like royalty! People scream “DHL!” as we go past, and there’s usually a really great vibe.

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Af r ic a As On e

Highlights Day 1: Journey officially starts in Cape Town. Day 2: First border crossing into Lesotho. It’s not as monumental as one would think—it’s traffic and papers and border control. Day 3: The first eye-clinic stop in rural Lesotho. Mohau is inspirational and treats every patient with compassion and love. Day 5: First rugby-coaching clinic. The children arrive in hordes, with former Springbok Pieter Muller making a guest appearance. Day 6: Breakfast in Lesotho, lunch in South Africa, and dinner in Swaziland! Day 12: We are joined by Springbok legend Frikkie Welsh for the Swaziland coaching clinic. Day 14: Zimbabwe, which means another border crossing and another three hours spent filling in forms and just yearning to enter the country. Day 15: Camping at Masvingo, so we have to search for a place to watch the Currie Cup final and do a happy dance when the DHL Stormers win! Day 17: Victoria Falls! Another eye-specialist stop. Day 21: Rugby clinic in Harare and some local ‘afro-fusion’ music. Day 23: Fishing and snorkelling in Lake Malawi, which stretches close to 700km across and in some places is 700m deep. Day 25: Delivering stationery to a little school called Macalpine Primary. Day 26: Rugby mania in Malawi. Day 28: We arrive in Tanzania, with a casual two hours at the border and then a one-hour time jump! Day 32: At Ngorongoro Crater. Day 34: We visit Costigan English Medium School and drop off more stationery supplies. Day 36: Rugby fair in Nairobi. Day 38: Border crossing into Ethiopia. Day 40: Off-roading to Lake Assal in Djibouti, the lowest point on land in Africa. Day 41: Diving in the Red Sea. Day 46: Another day of teaching kids to play rugby at a rugby clinic in Addis Ababa.

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Day 49: Fly into Sudan. Day 52: Rugby in the desert, and kids turn up in their droves, ready to learn. We are joined by former Springbok rugby player Delarey du Preez and former Crusaders rugby legend, Donovan Hall. Day 57: Visit Uganda’s biggest national park, Murchison Falls. Day 59: Another fun and successful rugby clinic held at an intimate venue in Kampala. Day 60: Lake Bunyonyi, 6 437 feet above sea level, is 900m deep and has 29 islands. Day 61: Arrive in Rwanda. Day 62: Visit with Dian Fossey’s famous Susa group of gorillas. Day 63: Our resident optometrist Mohau sees more than 100 patients, some of whom are survivors of the genocide. Day 64: Rwandan DHL Express country manager Julie Mutoni speaks at the rugby clinic. Day 65: We cross the border into Burundi and head to Lake Rwihinda. Day 68: The weekly rugby clinic is accompanied by an exhibition match by the Kamenge youth rugby team. Day 69: Arrive in Zambia. Day 72: Rugby clinic in Zambia includes rugby tactics, skills exercises and even some kicking practice. Day 74: In Chobe National Park, Botswana. Day 75: Fly to Mauritius. Day 78: Rugby clinic in Mauritius and Valentine’s drinks on the beach. Day 81: Reunion Island! Day 84: Visit EPP Ivandry School on Madagascar to drop off stationery. Day 87: More stationery drop-offs at EPP ISahafa School near Ambohimanga. Day 89: Weekly rugby clinic with the local kids in Madagascar; rugby is the official sport, so they teach us a thing or two as well! Day 90: Arrive in Namibia. Day 93: Explore fashion in Windhoek. Day 95: First day in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Day 98: More eye testing and free spectacles given out; Mohau is amazing with the people and helps as many as he can. Another rugby clinic tomorrow and then on to the Congo.

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M a tth ew Holt

FIRE & A ICE MATTHEW HOLT GOES TO THE VOLATILE ISLAND OF ICELAND TO CLIMB ITS HIGHEST VOLCANOES—WHILE HOPING THEY DON’T ERUPT

Our plan was to attempt Iceland’s highest peak,

Hvannadalshnúkur, in Skaftafell at the foot of the largest icecap outside the poles—Vatnajökull. It covers almost one-tenth of Iceland and contains the country’s five highest peaks. But would the weather play along?

Photographs: Matthew Holt and Mandy Ramsden

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s black lava fields raced up to meet us, I thought we might be approaching the moon, but then the stewardess announced we’d touched down in Iceland. After completing the seven continental summits, Mandy Ramsden had developed a fetish for volcanoes and, accordingly, was in Valhalla—with this geological hot spot spouting them like teenage acne. Meanwhile, ever an opportunist, I’d been attracted by Iceland’s self-inflicted financial meltdown that had made this once exorbitant country almost affordable. Besides, in addition to 130 volcanoes, Iceland boasts the world’s highest per-capita marijuana consumption and three Miss Worlds. Leaving the airport at midnight, a blood-red sun hovered on the horizon. On another occasion, we might have lingered to admire it, but our poetic mood had been spoilt by discovering the airline had lost all our bags. The next morning, we visited the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, where we spent an hour poaching in hot pools, coated in silica mud and pondering our next move. Notwithstanding the absence of boots, crampons and fresh underwear, we decided to continue to the mountains. It was a psychedelic trip across a startling landscape of Day-Glo fauna, hot geysers, creamy blue glaciers and moody skies. There were waterfalls of every description: long and straight like stiletto blades; thin and wispy like strands of hair; broad and foaming like rivers in flood. At Eyjafjallajökull, we paid our respects to the volcano which, in 2010,

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M a tth ew Holt

single-handedly closed down European airspace for a week. And at Vík, we crunched along the black shingle beach to admire the gothic sea-stacks and sea-arches lurking in the mist. Compared to the scenery, the towns were disappointingly functional, with Icelandic architects favouring the utilitarian shoe-box design. Shops, houses restaurants and warehouses all looked like army barracks, and in Vík we mistakenly wandered into a workshop, seeking a cappuccino. After five hours, we reached the Skaftafell preservation area. Skaftafell lies at the foot of the largest icecap outside the poles, Vatnajökull, which covers almost one-tenth of the island, contains the country’s five highest peaks and is three times the size of Luxembourg (which, admittedly, isn’t huge). At Skaftafell, we met up with Leifur Örn Svavarsson, one of Iceland’s leading mountaineers and a founder of Icelandic Mountain Guides. I’d first met Leifur climbing in the Himalayas, where he’d been a good tent mate—except when I’d run out of reading material and he only had books in Icelandic. We found him in the guides’ office, looking just the part: coiling ropes, sporting stubble and nursing a hangover. Our plan was to attempt Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, the

following day, and Leifur had helpfully rustled up spare clothing and gear. The weather was less accommodating, however, with a front coming in from the west. When we met up early the next morning, we were greeted by clear blue skies and a rare view of Hvannadalshnúkur’s summit dome glinting in sunshine. Leifur was unimpressed. “The front will be here by noon,” he announced. “We should head east.” After driving for an hour through fields carpeted with purple and yellow lupines, we reached the base of the alternative peak he had in mind. By now it was

drizzling. Leifur sniffed the air, squinted into the murk and grimaced. “We must go further east,” he declared. There’s an Icelandic saying: “If you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes and it will be worse”—only in Icelandic, of course. We crossed the suspension bridge at Jökulsárlón, where the glacial lagoon breaches into the sea, sending prisms of blue ice bobbing into the surf. By the time we got to the fishing village of Höfn, the rain was coming down steadily. “We will go through the tunnel to Hvalnes,” resolved Leifur. “The weather is always better there.”

PREVIOUS PAGE: High on Hekla THIS PAGE, TOP: Poaching in the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa THIS PAGE, RIGHT: The glacial lagoon at Jökulsárlón OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP: Hikers at Jökulsárlón OPPOSITE PAGE, BOTTOM: Houses for the huldufólk, or elves

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surging rivers. Abandoning the jeep, we continued on foot, bashing our way through snagging undergrowth and up loose talus. By now it was snowing, and though Leifur was navigating with a GPS, we could barely read it. After five hours of stomping up snowfields in a disorientating whirl, we realised we couldn’t go any higher without walking over the edge. Conveniently, Leifur announced we were on the summit, though we might have been anywhere. In a raging blizzard, we ran down through knee-deep snow, setting off

small avalanches with every step. We only stopped running when we were back in the car with the heater on. “Welcome to Iceland,” said Leifur. We were staying at Höfn, in a small hotel with a melancholic charm. The interior was liberally decorated with paintings by a local artist, featuring mournful faces, coffins and devils, executed in dark, heavy oils. Outside was a turf-roofed 14th century church, the family cemetery and three miniature houses for the huldufólk, or elves. Icelanders are very protective toward their huldufólk, with the construction of a major road recently being halted for fear of disturbing the local elf community, while a multinational corporation was required to obtain a certificate deeming its site elf-free. After a couple of days, the weather improved sufficiently to attempt Hvannadalshnúkur. With Leifur off chaperoning a National Geographic film crew, we teamed up instead with one of his company’s guides, Arnar Sigurdsson. (All Icelanders helpfully carry the suffix ‘son’ or ‘dottir’ to distinguish their gender.) At 2 110m, Iceland’s highest peak is perched on the crater rim of the Öræfajökull volcano, which sits atop the Vatnajökull icecap. Arguably more challenging to spell than to climb, it nevertheless involves a 25-kilometre round trip starting at sea level, plus plenty of crevasses obstructing the way. Indeed, the six parties before us had failed to reach the top. Though appreciating the need for an early start, I was still in shock when we met at 4 a.m. to leave for the trailhead at Sandfell. A rude, steep hike took us up to the snowline at 1 000m, where we strapped on snowshoes and roped up. There were three other parties attempting the peak, so we strategically dawdled to allow them to get ahead and break trail. As we progressed up the glacier, the crevasses became more menacing. The first few we just glided over in our snowshoes; the next ones we had to consciously step across; then we had to jump over them; and eventually we had to take winding detours, deploying a zigzag formation lest we all fell in. It

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When we emerged from the tunnel, it was pouring down and we needed headlights just to see the road. Leifur looked genuinely bemused. “We might as well climb something now we’re here,” he recovered, suggesting Jokulgilstindar, the highest peak in the area at just over 1 300 metres. “On with the butter,” I replied—which, according to my guidebook, is what Icelanders say for “let’s get on with it”. Leifur looked at me quizzically. Jokulgilstindar is a rarely visited peak and, fittingly so, for just getting in its vicinity requires a traumatic drive over high muddy banks and through

M a tth ew Holt ABOVE: Climbers setting off up Hvannadalshnúkur

With the clouds closing in and no visible trail to guide us back down, we resorted to dropping lava pebbles in the snow, like Hansel and Gretel venturing deeper into the forest—just hoping we weren’t also

heading for the witch’s oven. was a grey, gloomy day, but eventually we broke through the clouds to see Hvannadalshnúkur’s bulbous summit knoll on our left, still several kilometres away. At the base of the knoll, we changed into crampons and took out our ice axes. There were only 200 vertical metres to go now, but from here the terrain was more serious. Plus, having caught the other parties, we had to take our turn up front. On three occasions, we came upon wide chasms that appeared impassable and I thought our summit bid was sunk. But each time, after tentatively probing and prodding, we uncovered a snow bridge and tiptoed across. Eight hours after setting out, we scampered gratefully to the top. And that evening, down at the Hof-1 Hotel, we celebrated as best we could beneath an oil painting of a funeral. For our finale, we chose Mount Hekla which, in the Medieval Ages, was

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considered ‘the gateway to Hell’. Its name means ‘the hooded one’, because it’s perpetually cloaked in cloud—though that could apply to any other Icelandic volcano. Hekla’s fame is due rather to the frequency and ferocity of its eruptions, with over 20 major ones recorded to date. The first, in 1104, covered half of the island in ash; the 1300 eruption killed 500 settlers; in 1510, rock bombs hit villages 40km away; the 1636 and 1947 eruptions both lasted over a year; and the 1783 eruption destroyed four-fifths of the island’s sheep stock. It was clearly not a volcano to be messed with. Furthermore, with its magma chambers reportedly full and ready to burst, there was a caution in place not to climb it. As we moved up the scree and snow slopes, getting further away from our jeep, I’ll admit to a pang of angst. For, unlike big game encounters when you just have to

be quicker than your companion, there’s no such lifeline if a volcano blows, with pyroclastic flow reaching speeds of 500km/h and temperatures over 800°C. With the clouds closing in and no visible trail to guide us back down, we resorted to dropping lava pebbles in the snow, like Hansel and Gretel venturing deeper into the forest—just hoping we weren’t also heading for the witch’s oven. After three hours and numerous false tops, we came upon a postbox containing the summit register. Recording our names, we hurried down and drove off. Back in Reykjavik, reunited with our bags, we celebrated in a restaurant that looked like a warehouse, dining on tataki-style whale and barbecued horse. At midnight, we watched the sun set into the sea. With our expedition over, we were leaving the next day… provided our plane took off before any volcanoes erupted.

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Livin’ it up IN LA

GRAHAM HOWE GOES LOOKING FOR COUGARS AND COYOTES WHILE HIKING AND CYCLING AROUND THE CANYONS AND VALLEYS OF THE CITY OF ANGELS

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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hiking trails into the Hollywood Hills. Five minutes away from life in the fast lane in downtown Los Angeles, we joined the hikers, joggers and dog walkers taking a sunset stroll in the biggest city conservancy in the United States. I was trying to walk off my jet lag.

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G r a h a m Howe

“Caution: Rattlesnakes” warns the sign at the beginning of one of many

n a robust hike up a steep gravel track into the rugged green foothills and canyons of the Santa Monica range, I could see the snow-capped peaks of the San Gabriel mountains in the distance. The natural landscape provides an awesome scenic backdrop to the metropolis of LA. Coming across a real stretch of wilderness in the heart of the urban sprawl of LA takes you by surprise. Keeping an eye out for coyote, deer, rattlesnakes and a real cougar (not one of those Real Housewives of Beverly Hills) caught frequently on security cameras, I spotted hares bounding into the dense underbrush and eagles soaring on the evening thermals. Faith, our energetic guide, pointed out: “This is where Who Framed Roger Rabbit was set; Toontown was set right over this bridge in the gulch.” Fact and fiction, reality and illusion mix freely in Tinseltown. Every landmark in LA lore is a location for one of the classic movies set in Celluloid City over the course of the last century. Mulholland Drive, the precipitous mountain road that inspired David Lynch’s movie of the same name, winds through these very hills. We hiked past the art deco dome of Griffith Observatory where James Dean starred in Rebel Without a Cause—instantly recognisable as the location for movies from The Terminator to Yes Man. I felt like I was walking through one of those giant outdoor movie sets of one of the big Hollywood studios. Climbing up a steep path that winds through the canyons, we joined the tourists at a viewpoint overlooking the legendary Hollywood Hills sign. The 14-metre high letters are hard to miss—but difficult to photograph, as they curve around their hillside perch. Erected by a property developer in 1923, the original real-estate billboard spelt out “Hollywoodland”— illuminated by 4 000 light bulbs— advertising a property development. It was meant to stay up for 18 months, but is still going strong 90 years on as an American cultural icon.

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Steve Winter’s photograph of a wild cougar passing under the Hollywood sign was one of the finalists in the 2014 Wildlife Photographer of the Year Awards. While we caught our breath, Faith told us how Playboy’s Hugh Hefner had led the fund-raising campaign to save the rusty old sign in 1978 by getting nine LA celebrities to pay for the restoration (at R280 000 per letter), including actor Gene Autry, rock star Alice Cooper, singer Andy Williams and Warner Brothers. In 2009, Hefner stepped in again and donated one million bucks to help the city “Save the Peak” and buy the land where the Hollywood sign stands for US$12.5 million (around R150m). I spotted Laurel Canyon from our lookout. The song, “Twelve Thirty (Young Girls Are Coming To The Canyon)”, was ringing in my ears. Mama Cass (of The Mamas & The Papas) sang about the heyday of the Swinging Sixties scene in LA—the haunt of a generation of folk musicians who lived here, from Joni

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Mitchell and Carole King to The Doors, Buffalo Springfield and Neil Young. Mitchell observes in Vanity Fair of March 2015: “Ask anyone in America where the craziest people live and they’ll tell you California. Ask anyone in LA where the craziest people live and they’ll tell you Hollywood. Ask anyone in Hollywood where the craziest people live and they’ll say Laurel Canyon!” Hollywood is the stuff of legend, and star maps encourage visitors to indulge in one of LA’s favourite pastimes: stargazing. The wry locals say one of the best places to spot celebrities is Forest Lawn Memorial Park—the resting place of stars from Buster Keaton and Stan Laurel to Rod Steiger and Michael Jackson. Another is the Hollywood Walk of Fame where I found Charlize Theron’s star set in the pavement—and Neill Blomkamp’s new sci-fi film Chappie on large movie billboards. I got this strange sense of déjà vu in LA: I’d seen all of these scenes before on film. When an aspiring actress called Norma

Jeane Mortenson first came to Hollywood, she wrote: “I used to go to Grauman’s [now TCL] Chinese Theatre and try to fit my foot into a celebrity impression. It really meant to me that anything is possible… almost.” Then she became Marilyn Monroe. A banner announced that Vince Vaughn would be the newest star to make his mark in a footprint and handprint ceremony in March 2015. Too bad I was gone by then. But I was in the right place at the right time: We were in Hollywood during Academy Award Week. The giant golden Oscar statues and red carpets were still out on Hollywood Boulevard the day after the awards. The morning after, souvenir shops were already selling cheesy Oscar statues (best mum, best dad, best son, best daughter etc.) for half-price at $5 (R60). And with an asking price of US$1.4m (about R16.9m), Elvis Presley’s 1957 Cadillac Eldorado Seville convertible, with real diamonds on the bonnet, was the most expensive item in a souvenir shop on the Boulevard.

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G r a h a m Howe Short of cosmetic surgery, there’s only one way to experience the super-fit, body-beautiful LA lifestyle: the way the locals do—on cycle and on foot. I headed up into Beverly Hills with Erick Martinez of Bikes and Hikes LA, an award-winning

PREVIOUS PAGE: Los Angeles from Dante’s View in Griffith Park OPPOSITE, TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: On a Rolls— LA bling on Rodeo Drive; Heading into the hills on Hollywood Boulevard OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT: Exploring LA on a Bikes and Hikes tour of Beverly Hills; Arnie’s abs in his prime, on Muscle Beach THIS PAGE, TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Hiking to the iconic Hollywood sign in Griffith Park; Graham Howe at the LA marker where Route 66 ends—all the way from Chicago THIS PAGE, BOTTOM LEFT TO RIGHT: Guide Erick Martinez of Bikes and Hikes LA; The Landmark Beverley Hills Hotel, home to the stars

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operator that promotes eco-friendly tourism. Leaving behind all the movie and soapie billboards on Sunset Boulevard, we cycled up manicured avenues with steep gradients and even steeper real-estate values, spotting old movie-star homes close up from the saddle, from Marilyn Monroe’s ‘luxury love shack’ to the former residences of Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Angelina Jolie, Billy Bob Thornton, Cher, Dr Phil and others. We pedalled up to Greystone Mansions set in a landscaped park on the heights of Beverly Hills. At the entrance, I spotted Ritchie Rich’s “RR” signature set in the cast-iron gates—the legacy of more than 60 movies that have been filmed on location in this faux-Tudor mansion built in 1927 by Edward Doheny, the pioneer LA oil and property tycoon whose life (played by Daniel Day-Lewis) inspired the film, There Will Be Blood. Scenes from Indecent Proposal and The Bodyguard to The Social Network and The Witches of Eastwick were filmed here. No wonder I knew the place.

Cycling past the landmark Beverly Hills Hotel, I recognised the swaying palm trees and pink mission-style building that inspired Hotel California, the iconic 1970s rock album by the Eagles. We overtook bling-yellow Rolls-Royces, Ferraris and Aston Martins while cycling down Rodeo Drive, the smartest shopping strip in LA where the world’s top designer labels from Bijan, Chanel, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Hermès to Prada, Ralph Lauren and Versace sell it all cheek-to-cheek. After a 20-kilometre bike ride, we stopped for a vegan Mexican lunch at the very trendy Gracias Madre (‘Thank you, Mother’) near Melrose Place. Every place in LA was starting to sound like a movie or soapie. We spotted a scantily clad Beyoncé and Jay-Z doing lunch with their bodyguards in the courtyard. I quipped, “I’ll have what he’s having.” The restaurant stocks 120 artisanal tequila and mezcal— but in the healthy spirit of LA, I ordered a delicious detox smoothie made from avo,

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

G r a h a m Howe

LEFT TO RIGHT: Charlize Theron’s star set in the Hollywood Walk of Fame; Souvenir shops sell cheesy ‘best mom/dad’ Oscar statues on Hollywood Boulevard

agave, spinach, coconut, lime and ginger. The prickly pear cactus salad was out of season, so I ordered organic Brussel sprouts, massaged kale and quinoa instead. Where else do they massage the vegetables? Only in LA. Pass the almond milk and cashew cheese, please. Keeping up the pace, early one morning we joined the throng of locals on their daily exercise run on the biking, jogging and walking track that runs all the way down the Pacific coast from Malibu to Venice and Redondo Beach. The surf was up, and so were all the beach boys and girls. Energetic aerobic classes exercised on the golden sands. Old hippies with silver ponytails on skateboards raced past, carrying surfboards underarm. I was starting to feel like I’d entered an Iron Man triathlon. We met up with Erick at the famous Hotel Casa Del Mar (built in 1926), an icon in Santa Monica. We cycled past a sign warning, “Tsunami Hazard Zone: In case of earthquake, go to high ground or inland.” I wondered how fast I could cycle into those hills if I saw the mother of waves rolling in from the other side of the Pacific. I kept my eyes peeled. At Muscle Beach, Erick pointed out the basketball court where Woody Harrelson starred in White Men Can’t Jump, as well as the lifesaver’s deck used in the television series, Baywatch. We stopped at the famous gym where Arnold Schwarzenegger, “The Governator”, worked out in the 1970s. A row of faded pictures showed Arnie’s big abs in his prime. The muscle kings still compete for the annual Mr Bodybuilder and Miss

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Bikini titles celebrated in a row of bronze plaques. With my khaki shorts, bush cap and rooinek tan, you could probably spot me for a tourist, but I did my best to fit in with the bronzed beach bums in their Lycra and Speedos. The poets of the Pacific were celebrated in quotes cast on the concrete walls of the changing rooms at Venice Beach. The late Jim Morrison of The Doors wrote, “Now the soft parade has just begun. Cool pools from a tired land sink now in the peace of evening.” While poet Linda Albertano wrote, “To the Pacific! Your waves are breaking deep inside. Your blood is roaring in our ears! You are dreaming us awake!” A Route 66 sign on the long wooden Santa Monica pier, jutting out into the Pacific Ocean, marks the western end of the cross-continental highway that starts thousands of kilometres away in Chicago. In the shadow of the landmark Ferris wheel, an old folkie was still playing “Hotel California” on his battered acoustic guitar. I spotted the famous carousel where Paul Newman worked in The Sting— yet another LA movie. By night, I walked neon-lit Sunset Boulevard past famous clubs like the Whisky a Go-Go where great rock bands such as The Doors played, and The Viper Room (once owned by Johnny Depp). All the nighthawks, grifters and drifters are like characters scripted by James Ellroy, the crime noir novelist of LA who wrote The Black Dahlia and LA Confidential, or out of Raymond Chandler’s Chinatown and Farewell, My Lovely. Adrift in legend, I spotted The Hyatt (now Andaz) West

Hollywood hotel known as The Riot House in the ‘60s, where The Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin held wild parties, destroyed hotel suites, and once rode a Harley-Davidson along the corridor of the 12th floor. After hiking and cycling 50km around Hollywood and the Pacific coast, I just had to indulge my own cravings on my last day in LA. We ended up at Mel’s Drive-In, a neon landmark on Sunset Strip which has been open 24/7 since 1947. Featured in Guy Fieri’s fabulous TV series, Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, Mel’s is a Hollywood institution—from its harlequin linoleum and plush diner booths with 1950s jukeboxes to its milkshake bar and grill. After gorging on a half-pound (225g) grass-fed sirloin burger with curly fries, onion rings and root beer, it was time to leave LA. On the way home, those nostalgic lyrics were still ringing in my ears: “Welcome to the Hotel California / Such a lovely place / such a lovely face. / Plenty of room at the Hotel California / Any time of year / you can find it here… You can check out any time you like / But you can never leave!” Los Angeles must be the most mythologised city on the planet—a place where every waiter dreams of being a movie or rock star one day. Graham Howe visited Los Angeles on the city’s new A380 airbus service as a guest of British Airways, The London West Hollywood and LA EcoTourism Bikes and Hikes. Visit www.ba.com, www.bikeshikes.com and www.thelondonwesthollywood.com.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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Stef Ter bla n c h e

Lighthouse FAMILY STEF TERBLANCHE VISITS SOME OF THE WESTERN CAPE’S BEACONS OF LIFE AND DEATH Very few experiences can simultaneously offer one a taste of adventure, the great outdoors, spectacular settings incorporating sea and land, a brush with life and death dramas, tranquil isolation in a bygone world that somehow endures, fascinating history, the workings of an indispensable service, and now also a unique form of hospitality for travellers. But visit any number of South Africa’s lighthouses, and you will get all this and more. Photographs: Karl Andre Terblanche

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

any of these lighthouses can be reached fairly easily, while a number are open to the publicâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; making a tour of South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lighthouses a unique experience that will take you to unforgettable, out-of-the-way places. We limited our tour to the lighthouses of the Western Cape, starting at Cape Columbine a few kilometres from the historic fishing village of Paternoster in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. This lighthouse, commissioned in 1936, is probably the

and Langebaan Lagoon. South Head can be reached through the West Coast National Park and Postberg Flower Reserve, but is out of bounds to the public, as it is on military property. Giving Dassen Island Lighthouse a miss, our next stop was the Cape Peninsula which, as the infamous Cape of Storms, naturally abounds with lighthouses and has a history filled with spectacular maritime disasters. No fewer than six lighthouses are located around the peninsula in vastly differing settings. The rugged isolation of the Slangkoppunt cast-iron lighthouse at Kommetjie stands in stark contrast to the urban setting of the Green Point Lighthouse at Mouille Point, which is dwarfed by high-rise apartment blocks. Green Point Lighthouse went into

only South African lighthouse built in something of an art deco style and resembles a square castle. Cape Columbine was the last manned lighthouse to be built and the last lighthouse designed by Harry Claude Cooper, lighthouse engineer for the Cape colonial government and subsequently the first lighthouse engineer of the then South African Railways. Cape Columbine, painted white with a red lantern house, stands on a prominent, windswept headland from where its beam is visible up to 32 nautical miles (60km) away. Originally, lighthouses were painted in different, unique colours and patterns to make them easily identifiable from the sea while the flashing light of each lighthouse has a unique sequence. Cape Columbine is usually the first lighthouse to be sighted by ships coming from South America and Europe. The history of the area is steeped in maritime tragedy, and both the town of Paternoster and the lighthouse owe their names to shipping disasters. Next we visited Saldanha Bay where two lighthouses named North Head and South Head guard the sea entrance to the bay

service in 1824 as the first operational and solid-structure lighthouse in South Africa. The building, with its red and white diagonal stripes, is a Cape Town landmark where generations of lighthouse keepers have received their training. Despite its role in safely guiding ships in and out of Table Bay, the Green Point Lighthouse has borne witness to many a tragedy on the waters in front of it. In one of the worst storms ever to hit Table Bay in 1858, some 30 ships were blown ashore and wrecked, with many lives lost. In another severe storm in May 1865, the RMS Athens was driven onto the rocks near the lighthouse by huge waves, with all 29 crew members perishing. And in 1966, the SA Seafarer ran aground close to the lighthouse, which used its strong light beam to assist three Air Force helicopters that airlifted crew and passengers to safety without loss of life. This was the first such rescue operation in South Africa. A short distance across the busy waters of Table Bay is the Robben Island Lighthouse built in 1864 which, in a sense, was the very first. On the same spot where it stands, the Dutch governor at

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Originally, lighthouses were painted in different, unique colours and patterns to make them easily identifiable from the sea while the flashing

light of each lighthouse

has its own sequence.

PREVIOUS PAGE: The lighthouse keeper’s view from Cape Agulhas OPPOSITE PAGE: Roman Rock Lighthouse on a calm day in Simon’s Town ABOVE, MIDDLE: Lighthouse in the city— Green Point ABOVE, RIGHT: The older lighthouse at Cape Point is a big tourist attraction

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the Cape, Jan van Riebeeck, already in 1656 ordered a huge bonfire to be kept burning as a navigational aid for ships. Across the water from Robben Island is Milnerton Lighthouse, also in an urban setting. At Simon’s Town we find one of the most unique lighthouses in South Africa. The Roman Rock Lighthouse is perched precariously on two rocks out at sea near the entrance to the naval harbour where it is pounded by stormy waters much of the time. As a result, its builders could work on only 96 days during the four years it took to erect the lighthouse between 1861 and 1865. Our next stop, the Cape Point Lighthouse, sits spectacularly atop a rocky headland of sheer cliffs surrounded

by a restless sea at the southern tip of the Cape Peninsula. It is commonly but incorrectly believed that the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet here. The lighthouse is within a nature reserve that is part of the larger Table Mountain National Park. The area is so littered with wrecked ships that there is a special shipwreck trail here. The first lighthouse was built in 1857 in the ‘wrong place’ at the highest point of the headland. Mist and bad weather often rendered it ineffective. After a Portuguese ocean liner, Lusitania, came to grief directly below the lighthouse in 1911, a new one was built lower down in 1914. It boasts the most powerful beam of all South Africa’s lighthouses, visible from 34 nautical miles (62km) away.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Stef Ter bla n c h e 40

From Cape Point we followed the scenic road around the False Bay coast to Kleinmond and the Cape Hangklip Lighthouse, located on a beautiful little peninsula covered in fynbos from where it overlooks a number of picturesque bays. This is also prime whale-watching country. Then it was on to Gansbaai and the Danger Point Lighthouse, which was commissioned in 1895. Here, one of the most tragic cases of outstanding chivalry in maritime history took place when the HMS Birkenhead struck a rock and sank in February 1852 while carrying troops to Algoa Bay. With too few serviceable lifeboats for all on board, women and children used the boats first while the soldiers famously stood to attention on the decks as the ship broke up and went

down. Many of them were taken by great white sharks. Of the 643 people on board, only 193 survived. After this tragedy, the ‘women and children first’ protocol was adopted throughout the maritime world More than 140 shipwrecks litter the coast between Danger Point and the Breede River mouth some 150km further east. On a small peninsula, the Quoin Point Lighthouse, accessible only by 4x4 vehicle, overlooks the graveyard of a number of these wrecks. Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa which, like Cape Point, also dubiously claims to be the meeting point of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, is home to one of South Africa’s most iconic lighthouses built in 1849. Its design is based on the Pharos of Alexandria, one

from the Portuguese seafarer Bartolomeu Dias who, upon landing there on 3 February 1488, named the bay Bahia (Aguada) de São Brás—“the watering place of St Blaize”, whose feast is celebrated on that day. The lighthouse has been built on top of a cave that is an important archaeological site where Khoisan people lived from about 200 000 years ago to circa 1400. It is also the starting point of an awesome cliff-face hiking trail with breathtaking views. Most of the other lighthouses we visited are also close to great hiking trails and a number of them are located in or near nature reserves. Many outdoor and adventure activities are on offer close to these lighthouses, as are camping sites and a range of good accommodation.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Slangkoppunt Lighthouse at Kommetjie; Lonely sentinel— Cape Point’s second lighthouse; The iconic Cape Agulhas lighthouse; Danger Point—the ships’ graveyard

of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Out of commission for 20 years after its structure became unsafe, the local community rebuilt it and is now fully operational again. It houses a lighthouse museum and boasts a ghost in the form of a man seen painting the steps. The Cape St Blaize Lighthouse at Mossel Bay, built in 1864, got its name

Of the 22 lighthouses between Port Nolloth and Cape St Blaize, nine are manned and six open to the public. Some offer lighthouse tours, self-catering accommodation or conference facilities. Visit the website of the Transnet National Ports Authority at www.transnetnationalportsauthority.net, telephone 021 449 2400 or email: lighthouse.tourism@transnet.net.

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Sh a r k Spotter s

A ONE-OF–A-KIND PROJECT ATTEMPTS TO BALANCE THE NEEDS OF WATERGOERS AND GREAT WHITE SHARK CONSERVATION, WRITES SHAN ROUTLEDGE

EYE ON THE

OCEAN

It’s been just over 10 years since Cape Town locals Greg Bertish, Rasta Davids, Monwabisi Sikiya and Surf Shack owners Dave and Fiona Chudleigh started Shark Spotters. The initiative was born out of concern for the spate of shark attacks in 2004, and has turned into a hugely successful programme that not only helps prevent these attacks but provides data for research and education for the public.

S OPPOSITE: A spotter at Koeël Bay

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

upported by the City of Cape Town since 2006, Shark Spotters is the primary strategy to increase the safety of humans in the presence of sharks. Perched up high on the surrounding mountains, shark spotters scan the coastal waters for sharks and communicate with spotters on the beach who can warn swimmers and surfers. While they started with just Muizenberg and Fish Hoek beaches, the organisation now has 30 spotters who are able to watch eight of Cape Town’s most popular beaches (see sidebar) frequented daily by surfers and swimmers alike. Liesel Lott has been a shark spotter for eight and a half years, and explains what happens when she spots a shark out in the water: “We provide an early warning system to water users on the presence of sharks. Sometimes the sharks are far away from any water users and aren’t posing an immediate threat. These circumstances are fairly routine and I make sure I keep my eye on the shark and alert to any changes in its behaviour.

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Sh a r k Spotter s ©SIMON GEER

“On the other hand, if I spot a shark very close to people in the water, my heart rate increases for sure, but I do what I need to do to warn the people of the shark’s presence so that they can get out of the water while it swims past. The time I do stress is when people don’t heed the warnings and stay in the water. I then have to repeatedly sound the siren until they do get out,” she says. Shark Spotters has developed a strict protocol to minimise the risk of a shark bite and, consequently, the associated negative impacts. This is just the beginning of how the organisation is not only reducing the danger to watergoers but also to sharks by correcting misconceptions. Shark Spotters has attracted international and national attention for its novel solution to potential conflicts between sharks and people, and has received a silver award in the Cape Town Mayor’s Portfolio of Urban Sustainability. It is a pioneering example of how sharks and people can co-exist. Great white sharks, while seemingly threatening, are threatened globally. Due to their biological vulnerability to sustain fishing pressures and the large value of their jaws, teeth and fins, they are now protected in South Africa. Unfortunately, whenever there is the rare incident of a shark bite resulting in human injury or death, their protection takes a huge step back in the eyes of society. If the public is reluctant to support their conservation, protective measures taken to try and prevent culling and illegal hunting are undermined. Shark Spotters aims not only to prevent these attacks but to try and change public opinion and assist in conservation measures. Daily data is recorded on sea conditions, number of sharks sighted and number of people in the water. While the programme is restricted by water visibility, human error and operating hours during daytime, the project is still going from strength to strength. From 2004 to the present, 1 923 shark sightings have been recorded, with the highest number in the

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Sh a r k Spotter s

Unfortunately, whenever there is the rare incident of a shark bite resulting in human injury or death, their protection takes a huge step back in the eyes of society. southern hemisphere’s summer months. The objectives of Shark Spotters are to describe the demographics, size and trends of the local great white shark population and to determine its environmental drivers such as water temperature as well as its biological drivers such as prey abundance. Dr Alison Kock, research manager for Shark Spotters, feels it is an educational tool for researchers and water-users alike: “We believe that people can stay safer armed with this information because they can make informed decisions about low- and high-risk times.”

Save Our Seas

Last year, to commemorate its 10-year anniversary, Shark Spotters opened a information centre on Muizenberg beachfront which operates alongside the Save Our Seas Foundation’s Shark Centre in Kalk Bay. For more information or details on how you can donate: Telephone 078 174 4244 or 021 783 3326, email info@sharkspotters.org.za or visit sharkspotters.org.za. Follow Shark Spotters on Twitter @SharkSpotters for information about shark sightings and when beaches have been cleared.

better able it will be to protect them. Education is a vital long-term success: In the effort to protect our oceans, the By inspiring young people to fall in Save Our Seas Foundation (SOSF) funds and supports research, conservation and love with, to respect and learn to act in a more responsible manner toward education projects worldwide, focusing the ocean, we create the guardians of primarily on charismatic threatened wildlife and their habitats. In just 10 years, the future. Awareness campaigns inform the this incredible foundation has become a general public about the threats to the major player in the fight to save the world’s oceans and the wealth of marine oceans: The more people know about crucial issues, the greater the likelihood life they contain. SOSF has facilitated they will want to be part of the solution. more than 160 marine research and Conservation is the ultimate aim: Whether conservation projects in over 42 it’s saving a species from extinction or countries. One of the main focuses of SOSF is on understanding and protecting preserving a vital habitat, the foundation’s goal is to return the oceans to their once the largest shark species that play a vital role in maintaining the balance of marine healthy, abundant state. Holistic implementation is at the heart of ecosystems. There have been some all SOSF programmes: Just as the oceans extraordinary discoveries along the way, form one interconnected system, by and a wealth of knowledge gained and integrating research with education, shared—with both scientists and the awareness and conservation projects, the wider public—about the charismatic foundation is more effective and efficient. marine creatures concerned and their role in the oceans. SOSF’s multifaceted Follow the Save Our Seas Foundation on approach, known as REACH, ensures the Facebook (saveourseasngo) and Twitter projects it funds have a positive impact (@saveourseas) for regular updates, or across a wide audience: visit www.saveourseas.com to become a Research: Scientists work in friend of the ocean and receive monthly collaboration with one another to enhance and broaden their knowledge. email updates. You can also donate and contribute to one of the SOSF’s The more SOSF understands about the oceans and the threats facing them, the many projects.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

By Liesel Lott

A day in the life of a shark spotter 07h30

I arrive at the beach office to collect equipment: radios, binoculars, data sheets and polarised sunglasses which are essential for my job. Then I walk 700 metres up the nearby mountain to the lookout point.

08h00

I arrive at the lookout and immediately assess the spotting conditions. Because there are clouds overhead and the water is murky after a southeasterly wind, I radio the beach spotter to tell him to raise the black flag.

08h05

Despite the poor spotting conditions, there is plenty to see. A handful of surfers are already in the water, so I start scanning the ocean looking for signs of anything out of the ordinary.

09h30

I notice that the treknet (seine-haul) fishermen have arrived at the beach, about a kilometre away from the main surfing area.

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Flag system I inform the beach spotter of their activities, of which we need to be aware in case a shark interested in the fish shows up.

10h10

I see and make a note of a southern right whale about 600m offshore, breaching and tail-slapping. This is a common sight in winter and spring. Sometimes whales strand on the local beach and die, attracting large numbers of sharks, so I keep an eye out for any strange behaviour.

10h25

A busload of Brazilian tourists arrive at the lookout and are eager to learn about the programme—and hopefully see a shark. I describe what we do and answer their questions, while making sure my focus stays on the water.

11h45

Shark! Just as a cloud moves overhead, I spot it about 400m offshore, heading south toward

conditions good Green – Spotting nditions poor Black – Spotting co rt ale k Red – High shar en spotted be s White – Shark ha

St James. I estimate it to be about 3.5m long. It is high tide, so the surfers are close to shore and the shark is moving away from them. I decide it does not pose an immediate threat and it’s not necessary to close the beach. I report the sighting to the beach spotter and he raises the red flag as a warning. I also radio the spotters and our manager at the adjacent beaches to let them know a shark is swimming toward them.

11h50

I can still see the shark; it has turned around and is heading back toward Muizenberg in the direction of the surfers. It now poses a potential risk and I decide to close the beach and get the surfers out of the water as a precaution. The beach spotter sounds the shark siren and raises the white flag to alert the surfers. The surfers leave the water quickly and gather on the beach to listen to the beach spotter tell them the shark’s size and location, and the direction in which it is travelling.

12h00

): Permanent beaches (365 days a year h00 0–18 Muizenberg: 08h0 St James/Kalk Bay: 08h00–18h00 in summer) Fish Hoek: 08h00–18h00 (07h00–18h45 00–18h00 in summer) Caves, Kogel Bay: 08h00–17h00 (08h

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12h05

All clear! I radio the beach spotter to reopen the beach, and the surfers go back into the water. The white flag comes down and is replaced once again by the red flag to let surfers and swimmers know that a shark has been seen within the past hour.

12h45

It’s almost the end of my shift. Shark spotters are on duty for five- to six-hour shifts to avoid fatigue. My replacement arrives to start the afternoon spotting shift. I hand over my equipment and give him an update on the morning’s activity. I make sure I have filled in the data sheets, including a map of the pathway in which the shark swam.

13h00

The shark swims slowly just behind the backline, oblivious to the commotion it has caused on land. It changes direction again and starts swimming out into deeper water. I keep track of it for as long as I can. When I lose sight of it, I scan the water below for five minutes to check it does not come

Operating times

back and that no other sharks have entered the area.

That’s the end of my shift, and I walk back down the mountain to the train station to collect my daughter from school. Tomorrow I am on lookout duty again. It’s Saturday and the beach is going to be packed with surfers. The water is also warming up. So I expect I will see a few more sharks.

): Seasonal beach (September to May h00 0–18 08h0 ek: The Hoek, Noordho il; weekends, Seasonal beaches (October to Apr s): tion vaca public holidays and school Clovelly: 10h30–17h00 Glaincairn: 08h00–18h00 Monwabisi: 08h00–18h00

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Br a a m M a lh er be

IN THE LINE OF FIRE

The men and women who are part of the Volunteer Wildfire Services are keeping our homes, livelihoods and environment intact

It’s hot. You can’t see. You can’t breathe. You have no idea if the next step you take will send you hurtling down a ravine or onto safe ground. And the only thing pushing you on is the thought of getting yourself and others out of this inferno alive.

our loved ones, our possessions and our region’s beautiful natural treasures out of harm’s way. The Cape Peninsula—with its hot, dry, windy summers—is heavily prone to wildfires. Whether set on purpose by arsonists or by accident via a runaway ember from an innocent braai, fire is a real threat here. Fynbos is highly susceptible to even the slightest spark—and with such easily kindled veld on the doorstep of a major city, CapeNature, the City of Cape Town and Table Mountain National Park (TMNP) officials have their hands full when fire season rolls around each year. This is why, as a result of the devastating fires of 1999/2000,

I was approached by then TMNP head of fire management, Cas Theron, and Jannie du Plessis to set up a volunteer firefighting unit. From these humble beginnings in co-founding the VWS, I am immensely proud to see how the unit has grown into a force that’s highly respected today and why I’m still actively involved in helping out whenever I can (including doing some firefighting during the last fires in the park). The VWS is an entirely volunteer-run organisation that assists both CapeNature and TMNP in combating (both proactively and reactively) the fires that inevitably crop up each year in the region. Today, the VWS has grown to approximately 180

©HENK KRUGER/CAPE ARGUS

elcome to a day in the life of the people who make up the Volunteer Wildfire Services (VWS). If you live in the Cape Peninsula, you’ve certainly seen them in action quite a bit in March this year as they fought blaze after blaze throughout the Western Cape. For the volunteer firefighters, there’s no pay cheque at the end of a long night fighting a blaze. There’s just the satisfaction gained from a need fulfilled and a job well done. And even though the work is backbreaking, cough-inducing and exhausting, people still volunteer each year to do the work and keep us,

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©SHAWN BENJAMIN WWW.ARKIMAGES.COM

OPPOSITE LEFT: Braam Malherbe applying burn dressings to a homeless man he pulled out of a fire on Devil’s Peak. Sadly, the man died of his burns. OPPOSITE RIGHT: Braam assisting in the firefighting efforts in Tokai Forest in March ABOVE: The helicopters worked for days, water-bombing the fires

the people who make up this incredible group: “You would think it takes an extraordinary person to leave their work, to leave their family dinner or to climb out of bed in the middle of the night to don PPE [personal protective equipment] and chase a raging wildfire up a mountainside to protect our natural heritage and our properties—but this is what the volunteers of the VWS choose to do. Despite the extraordinary conditions, the heat, the flames and the thick choking smoke, we are actually ordinary people, just like you, but we have just made a choice to be part of the incredible organisation called the Volunteer Wildfire Services. You can, too.”

©DARREN STEWART

BELOW: The fire came dangerously close to property, and many had to evacuate their homes

members who make up three different stations: Newlands, Jonkershoek and South Peninsula. As I currently listen to choppers buzzing above and sirens wailing below as teams fervently rush to extinguish the flames engulfing hectare after hectare of land, I’m exceptionally grateful for the men and women who volunteer to be part of this organisation— keeping our homes, livelihoods and environment intact. Every time we picnic, hike, ride and enjoy the natural beauty that surrounds us here in the Western Cape, we have people like the volunteer firefighters to thank. Patrick Ryan, VWS vice chair and marketing director, had this to say about

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Br a a m M a lh er be

LEFT: Malherbe (front, left) inspecting the new rifle sling system for rapid response BELOW: Major General (Retired) Johan Jooste explaining to Braam the various protection zones in the Kruger National Park

Each year, VWS hosts a Fire & Fynbos Awareness Day, which raises funds to help cover the organisation’s running costs and training. This year’s event took place on 19 April at the Lievland Wine Estate near Stellenbosch. You can also contribute by picking up a MySchool MyVillage MyPlanet card and designating VWS as one of your beneficiaries. If you don’t have a MySchool MyVillage MyPlanet card, simply apply for free at www. myschool.co.za and select Volunteer Wildfire Services. As soon as you start swiping your card at participating business partners in South Africa, the VWS will start receiving funds. If you already have a MySchool card, but would like to change your beneficiary or add Volunteer Wildfire Services, simply call MySchool’s Client Service Centre on 0860 100 445 or email cs@myschool.co.za—there’s no need to get a new card! And for those of you willing to put in the extra work, VWS can always use more volunteers. In this season alone, volunteer firefighters have put in over 5 000 hours. Now is the perfect time to get involved, as recruitment began in March. Check out the VWS website for more information: www.vws.org.za. As for ways you can prevent fires, always be vigilant of your actions. It’s so easy to start a fire by mistake, so we must be extra careful wherever fire is concerned. If you smoke, always make sure your cigarette is out completely before you throw it away (and please, don’t throw it on the ground—take pride in keeping your country beautiful!). Always ensure any braai fires are completely extinguished before you leave them. Only light fires in fire-designated areas. And please immediately report any sign of fire to the authorities.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

©SHAWN BENJAMIN WWW.ARKIMAGES.COM

Ways you can help

ABOVE: City of Cape Town firefighters work hand in hand with volunteers BELOW: Braam with two of the original members of the VWS, Dennis Pitman (left) and Doug Hardy, in Tokai Forest

Disasters, whether natural or man-made, have a way of bringing people together and forcing us to see past our differences. During the recent fires, the outpouring of community involvement, along with the convergence of various organisations from around the country, all working as a team, serve as brilliant reminders that when we work together to ‘Do One Thing’, we can accomplish incredible feats. I would like to extend a personal thank-you to all the people who’ve toiled so tirelessly as part of VWS, and to those

who assisted them in their work. The job doesn’t end when the fires go out, so I hope we all continue to work together in perpetuity to #DOT to safeguard our beautiful home, South Africa.

Braam Malherbe is the ambassador of the Endangered Wildlife Trust MyPlanet Rhino Fund. Through his DOT campaign, he tries to help individuals understand the important role all of us have to play to protect our environment.

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EXPERIENCE THE COASTS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA ON THE RENEWED MSC SINFONIA

Set sail aboard the renewed MSC Sinfonia with more comfortable cabins, more mouth-watering dining options, more leisure and entertainment attractions, more choices for kids and teenagers, more space for wellbeing and relaxation. BABY CLUB

JUNIOR CLUB

TEEN CLUB

SPRAY PARK

KIDS CRUISE FREE! Contact your nearest ASATA Agent or

087 075 0882

DATE

NTS

ITINERARY

INSIDE

OUTSIDE

BALCONY

19 Nov

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 5 890

R 6 300

R 8 000

23 Nov

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 5 270

R 5 950

R 6 400

30 Nov

Durban, Maputo, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 6 570

R 7 380

R 7 990

07 Dec

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 5 270

R 5 950

R 7 200

11 Dec

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 5 040

R 5 670

R 7 910

14 Dec

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 6 890

R 7 740

R 8 840

18 Dec

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 5 760

R 6 480

R 7 440

21 Dec

Durban, Fort Dauphin, Inhaca & Portuguese Is

R 13 080

R 14 000

R 17 300

28 Dec

Durban, Reunion & Mauritius

R 17 660

R 19 360

R 27 500

08 Jan

Durban to Cape Town

R 3 150

R 4 060

R 5 000

22 Jan

Cape Town to Durban

R 2 640

R 2 960

R 3 870

25 Jan

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

29 Jan

Durban, No Where

R 2 450

R 2 770

R 2 980

31 Jan

Durban, Maputo, Inhaca & Portuguese Island

R 5 110

R 5 740

R 6 580

05 Feb

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 4 200

R 4 760

R 5 850

08 Feb

Durban, Fort Dauphin, Inhaca & Portuguese Is

R 7 140

R 7 630

R 10 160

15 Feb

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Island

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

19 Feb

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 3 600

R 4 760

R 5 460

22 Feb

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

26 Feb

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 4 200

R 4 760

R 7 800

29 Feb

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

07 Mar

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

11 Mar

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 4 200

R 4 760

R 5 460

14 Mar

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 5 110

R 5 740

R 6 110

01 Apr

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 4 200

R 4 760

R 5 460

04 Apr

Durban, Inhaca & Portuguese Islands

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

08 Apr

Durban, Portuguese Island

R 4 200

R 4 760

R 5 460

11 Apr

Durban, Maputo & Portuguese Island

R 4 340

R 4 900

R 5 600

MANDATORY CHARGES

2 Nights

R560

3 Nights

R730

4 Nights

R890

5 Nights

R950

7 Nights

R1160

11 Nights

R1450

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All rates are per person based on 2 people sharing a cabin and based on the MSC Cruises dynamic pricing policy, but remain subject to availability, foreign exchange and fuel cost fluctuations. Kids cruise free subject to a max of 2 kids u18 sharing a 4 berth cabin with 2 adults, mandatory charges still apply. Above prices exclude: mandatory port, insurance & service charges listed. Price correct at time of submission Single supplement applies. T&Cs apply. E&OE.

walk

SOMETHING TO

ABOUT

EUGENE YIGA TAKES A HIKE TO THE CENTRE OF AN ISLAND TO DISCOVER THE BENEFITS OF SLOWING DOWN

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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Eugen e Yiga

The most popular excursion for our free day on the MSC

Opera cruise is to relax on the beach. But that’s not what I have in mind. I didn’t come all the way from Cape Town to Portuguese Island to do nothing but sit in the sand; I came here for an adventure. And, like all good journeys, mine begins with a single step.

t’s a grey day in Durban and the dull skies are in stark contrast to the lush green of KwaZulu-Natal’s rolling hills. The airplane shell on the side of the runway makes me feel like we’ve landed in the Amazon jungle. “Please remain in your seats, with your seatbelts fastened, until the aircraft comes to a complete stop,” the Mango Airlines cabin attendant says at the end of the flight. Dozens of passengers stand up and rummage for their bags. I stay in my seat and shake my head. Why do people always do that? Don’t they know we’ll all be waiting at the luggage carousel? Just like so many drivers racing toward a red traffic light, it all feels pointless. But perhaps they’re all hurrying up to slow down. After all, I suspect many of them are here for the same reason I am: to board the MSC Opera for a three-night trip to Portuguese Island, a protected marine reserve in Mozambique which the cruising company has leased for a five-year term. “Leper colony, group two!” the excursion guide announces. “Please take a seat and we’ll call you when it’s your turn.” Hearing her say this makes me feel like she’s banishing me to an uninhabited island. Then again, given the tour I signed up for, that’s not far from the truth. It’s a long wait before we board a small boat, bobbing up and down in contrast to the stability of the 60 000-tonne ship. And it’s another long trip to Portuguese Island, with the motor churning up the Indian Ocean at a constant pace; the shore so close, yet so far away. It feels good to set foot on solid ground, at which point we meet our local guide. His name is Albert Mapanga and

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Eugen e Yiga it turns out we have a few things in common, other than his yellow Bafana Bafana T-shirt and my lack of knowledge when it comes to all things sport. Like me, he’s 28. Like me, he has a brother and two sisters. But it seems that’s where the similarities end. He tells me he’s divorced and has a six-year-old son, whom he’s fortunate enough to see every day. Perhaps that’s not surprising, given that he lives on Inhaca, a nearby island that only 6 000 people call home. “We have everything there,” he says with pride. “Restaurants, bars, shops. And it’s a nice place to live. Very quiet. Everyone knows each other and we’re all friends. There’s no stealing and no crime.” His home language is Shangaan, but he sounds like he could be from Brazil.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

“Portuguese, I learn from school,” he says, explaining his accent. “English, I learn from tourists!” Albert tells me he’s been leading tours since he was 13. For many of the villagers, it’s one of the few ways to survive. But even though MSC Cruises has brought more than 200 000 tourists to Mozambique’s shores over the last three years, it’s not easy to make a living. “It’s very expensive here,” he says as we walk past vendors on the beach, eager in their attempts to sell their souvenirs. “They come from Maputo and they make everything double the price.” I stop to admire some paintings, only to have the artist tell me it’s R10 to take a photograph. I move along to buy my trinkets from a friendlier man instead. But there’s not much time for haggling

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Portuguese Island is an uninhabited nature reserve that MSC Cruises has leased and developed into the perfect spot for a tropical getaway THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A 300-year-old church still stands at the centre of the island, a former leper colony; Traders at Portuguese Origins Market sell a variety of arts, crafts and other souvenirs; A view from the beaches of Portuguese Island; The cruise ship docks in the middle of the Indian Ocean and small motorboats transport passengers to the island OPPOSITE: The walk to the centre of the island requires reasonable fitness and kids who won’t get bored after an hour and a half

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over mementos. Our formal walk to the centre of the island is about to begin. At 6.2 kilometres, we’re told that a trip all the way around would take about two and a half hours. “I could tick it off my bucket list,” I say to a couple in the group. “Although I’d have to put it on my bucket list first.” Albert encourages us to wear shoes, but one woman, with a husband and two young boys, isn’t interested in his advice. “We’re from Durban,” she snaps. “We don’t wear shoes.” It’s not long before she regrets her words. First, one of her sons begins to moan when the soft beach sand becomes the rough terrain of hard shells and giant thorns. Then she gets a cramp in her leg and has to explain to her other son what a cramp is. “It means pain!” she snaps again, no doubt making things worse.

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“Winter is June to July and about 28 degrees,” he says. “Summer is the rest of the year and up to 40 degrees.” He shrugs. “But I’ve lived here all my life. I’m used to it.” Thank goodness I brought some water, unlike anyone else in the group. If only I’d brought a hat, too. “We’ve definitely walked off breakfast,” one man says to his wife. “We’ll come back a kilogramme lighter. Just think of this as gym.” But all I can think of right now is how much I’d like a cold beer. And I don’t

what we’ll find?” Right on cue, we reach the 300-year-old church we came to see. It’s remarkable to find it still standing so long after the island stopped being a leper colony. But while half the group finds it fascinating and takes pictures of this ancient relic, grumpy mom is ready to begin the walk back. And what a strenuous walk it turns out to be! The heat waves are visible, so much so that the ship looks like a mirage. “Hold still!” the angry mother says as she smothers her restless boys in another layer of sunblock. “Unless you want to burn?” The other couple and I do our best to ignore them. Instead, we ask Albert about the weather, which is even hotter and more humid than Durban on a bad day.

even drink beer at all! It takes a while, but our walk comes to an end 90 minutes after it began. We stroll through the ocean to cool our aching legs. Then we take our seats at the beach bar and enjoy a cold cider while the ship’s chefs prepare our braai. Unlike all the restless people eager to get off the plane, I’ve no plans to leave my seat anytime soon!

Eugen e Yiga

The island’s dense vegetation offers us a break from the sun, but not from the walking; there’s still a long way to go. We crouch down to avoid branches. But I’m so busy looking at my feet (strange creatures may be lurking on the ground!) that I fail to watch my head. Albert breaks off dead twigs so that no one else walks into a low tree. “It’s like we’re on a hunt for buried treasure,” I say as we continue to make our way through the bush. “Who knows

Eugene Yiga was a guest of Mango Airlines and MSC Cruises, the largest privately owned cruising company in the world (more than 1.5 million passengers per year). The next South African season on the extended and refurbished MSC Sinfonia runs from November 2015 to May 2016 and offers early booking discounts of up to 50%. Visit www.msccruises.co.za for more details.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

R a c h el L a n g

birding

GIRLS GONE

RACHEL LANG AND LAUREN DE VOS LAUGHED AND LEARNT ON A BUSH BIRDWATCHING COURSE IN THE KRUGER’S REMOTE MAKULEKE CONCESSION

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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R a c h el L a n g

What happens when the vibrant party of birdwatchers you’re with are just as colourful as the birds themselves? When the quiet, contemplative moments so necessary for taking in new information are matched by fits of laughter? The helpless, stomach-crunching kind that makes you wonder—in between thinking about racquet-tailed rollers and red-backed shrikes—whether you’ll have developed a sixpack by the end of the week. It was like being the naughty kid I never was at school, except that our feathered subjects were far more fascinating, and our classroom was the boundless African bushveld. Photographs: Ben Coley and Rachel Lang

he week-long EcoTraining Birding in the Bush course I attended with my fellow bush-loving friend Lauren de Vos took place in the northern Kruger National Park’s remote Makuleke Concession. The area could arguably be described as the Swarovski of South African birding destinations. Although the 24 000-hectare region forms only 1% of the Kruger’s total surface area, it supports 90% of all bird genera recorded in the park (more than 450 species). With 34 kilometres of river frontage, with the Limpopo River and an equal stretch of the softly flowing Luvuvhu River fringed by an impressive array of habitat types, it’s no wonder twitchers flock to the region, binoculars in hand, to notch up their list of ‘lifers’. Interestingly, the area also falls within a convergence zone of tropical and subtropical bird species, a cross-over that brings out new and exciting arrivals each year. This encompasses a variety of ‘specials’ including those of the human kind—most notably, our legendary guide, Bruce Lawson. Bruce and his wife, Dee, have lived in EcoTraining’s rustic Makuleke camp for the last eight years. “The attractive thing about where we are and what we do”, he says, “is

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

When we entered the magical yellow-green fever tree forest, it was

difficult to know where to look: the leafy riparian canopy was wild with activity. how simple it is. We’ve got no electricity [the camp makes use of solar lanterns], no cellphone reception, which is absolutely fantastic, and we live in a tent. We take nothing for granted here; I can walk out of our tent to go to the kitchen, which is

Special sights and stories

The Makuleke Concession affords prime access to some spectacular sites of special interest, quite aside from their birdwatching opportunities. Evening game drives saw our group perched atop sun-warmed boulders, sipping sundowners, at Lanner Gorge. Named for the lanner falcon, the gorge is 11km long and forms the boundary between the Kruger National Park to the south and the Makuleke Concession to the north. A daytime hike to a lookout over the archaeological site of Thulamela (built by the same early civilisation that built the Great Zimbabwe ruins and inhabited the Mapungubwe area) was another major highlight. Legend has it that a former chief used to throw criminals and enemies to their death from the highest points of the gorge. Visits to Crook’s Corner (specifically, the intersection of South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique—but more broadly applicable to the Makuleke area’s wild ‘frontier’ past) were rich with both wildlife sightings and history. Bruce is a veritable goldmine of interesting facts, interspersing bird sightings with fascinating anecdotes. Standing silently at the plaque commemorating the infamous Stephanus “Bvekenya” Barnard— another of history’s dubious but undoubtedly interesting characters— in the late afternoon heat, with the whirring of cicadas as our only accompaniment, was a transportive experience.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

only 20 metres away, and meet a big bull elephant blocking my way. Every day is an adventure.” One of the first things Bruce told us to do was take off our watches. “I want you to experience living in the moment. Let me worry about what happens while you just concentrate on getting in touch with the wilderness inside you.” Bruce’s dad, Peter, is an ornithologist

floodplains, every so often bunching up around Bruce to learn from his experienced birder’s eye and ear. Being able to identify bird song is one of the most helpful and important skills for any budding avian admirer. “Ninety-nine percent of the birds I see are located through their calls,” said Bruce. A drop of sweat slid down my chin and neck. Although it was only 8 a.m., the sun

and passed on his interest in birds to his son from a young age “through the process of osmosis”. Another of the things we were instructed to do was lock up any food, lest some hairy-tailed local would find its way into our rooms—rustic yet spacious en-suite tents. At this, however, Lauren and I were to fail miserably, and pay the consequences! Slowly (as is the essential pace for birdwatching), we weaved our way in one-by-one formation across dry

was beaming down on us, lighting up tall wisps of cat’s-tail grass and reflecting off the leaves of Northern lala palms. “Work harder, work harder,” urged Cape turtle doves from a dry leadwood branch as I diligently scribbled down the name of each new species. Mosque swallows swept the air above us and Natal spurfowl started up their rusty engines. When we entered the magical yellow-green fever tree forest, it was difficult to know where to look: the leafy riparian canopy was wild with activity.

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“Listen! A lemon-breasted canary.” There was also the distinctive cry of a trumpeter hornbill and, just then, a flash of bright blue greeting my interest with a familiar trill—a woodland kingfisher. I gave up trying to write down everything and tucked away my notebook in favour of being fully present and immersing myself in the arboreal assemblage of grey-headed parrots,

iridescent Meve’s starlings, European bee-eaters, white-browed scrub-robins and a variety of other small passerines partaking in aerial sallies. I was enjoying myself so much, in fact, that I tumbled right over a dry branch in the path, which caused an outburst of laughter from both me and Lauren. After a few hours, we stopped to rest under big fever trees in soft filtered light, eating biltong and a

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Rachel and Lauren search for lanner falcons, peering down into the magnificent and aptly named Lanner Gorge

cursed packet of dried fruit that would play a role in the events that unfolded that night: “Rach! Listen… It’s right outside our tent!” Shaken awake from Lauren’s whisper, I took in a large rustling sound. Last night’s elephant was back, I thought. I imagined him rustling and chewing leaves against the canvas. With this wonderful thought, I prepared to sink back into blissful oblivion. Suddenly there was a loud thud followed by clattering and clunking… what the!? The peaceful elephant of my thoughts had

ABOVE: A white-fronted bee-eater sails through the air—a common sight throughout our trip OPPOSITE: A white-backed vulture takes off and spreads its wings into the sunset as we return from an evening birding drive

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The Makuleke Concession represents a turning point in South Africa’s conservation history. Historically the land of the Makuleke people, the area was cordoned off as part of the Kruger National Park in 1969 under apartheid rule and the community forcibly removed. In 1996, the Makuleke community submitted a land claim; the result is the concession as it stands today, which the community elected to devote to tourism, rather than resettlement. Daily walks in the veld with Bruce hint at the region’s long human history: Shards of pottery conjure memories as recent as the 1950s and as old as the Iron Age communities that used the same land, while even older Acheulean hand axes point to nearly 1.4 million years of human habitation. The Limpopo and Luvuvhu rivers have long made this region habitable, providing fertile settling lands for people: from early human ancestors, to pastoralists, ancient trade networks and, even later, colonial miscreants bent on adventure and wealth on the infamous Ivory Trail. Today, the area remains a reminder of the intersection of humans and the environment. Anti-poaching patrols are taken seriously, with South African National Parks field rangers tasked with regulating poaching at the intersection of three countries. If anything, EcoTraining’s placement here is poignant: Reconnection with wilderness will hopefully spark an interest in the larger issues at hand for those who participate. As Bruce so passionately put it to me on one game drive: “We are really only catalysts for broader change; in guiding someone to some kind of personal inspiration in wilderness, we [field guides] hopefully allow one more person to take an interest, and take action.”

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Conservation and community

turned into an angry tusker crashing into our verandah! “It’s inside!” Lauren’s headlamp lit up the scene of the crime: Sticky dried peaches flung about, a fallen water bottle and a crackly, emptied plastic packet told the story. My ‘elephant’ was none other than an intrepid,

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

R a c h el L a n g

Helpful tips

Water: There is a borehole at the camp and water is safe to drink—but if you’re not used to its different taste, small bottles of still water are available to buy, although we would suggest bringing your own larger container. Shoes: Thorns will go straight through normal sports takkies, so proper sturdy hiking boots for walks are essential. Bird sounds: Downloading a birdsound app (Sasol eBirds of Southern Africa, or Roberts VII Multimedia Birds of Southern Africa) on your phone is a great help. Temperatures at the camp: Hot summers (average 40°C) and warm, dry winters (average minimum 9.3°C and average maximum 26.3°C). A protective sun lotion and hat are not to be left at home. No electricity: The camp is unfenced, so you will need a strong torch or headlamp for walking around at night. There is a generator at the main dining area where you can charge torches or cameras during the day. Malaria: It’s a malaria area so please take precautions.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: The much-coveted ‘tracker seat’ was the favourite perch during afternoon birding drives along the Luvuvhu River; Bruce Lawson, master birder and bird whistler; Sharing our camp with elephants was a constant reminder that we were indeed in the wild African bush

mischievous rodent. It was these little moments of hilarity shared with good friends, scattered throughout an informative and adventurous trip, which made for such an unforgettable experience. “We only stop for things with feathers,” Bruce said, grinning. Luckily, the large buffalo herd we came upon had attracted a flock of red-billed oxpeckers while cattle egrets trailed behind old ‘dagga boys’ (buffalo bulls that have left the breeding herd), catching the insects stirred from the grass. Afternoon birdwatching sessions were done from an open Land Rover, bumbling over dirt roads beside Mopani veld or beside rocky koppies with baobabs in bright-green dress. If only these trees could talk, I mused, what marvellous

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

stories would they tell about the area’s rich history, the ancestral home of the Makuleke people? We saw a number of fantastic raptors on these drives: a long-crested eagle (the ‘Elvis bird’), a juvenile martial eagle, several resident tawnies—and to our great delight, a Pel’s fishing owl, silently hunkering on a fallen branch beside the Limpopo. Although birding was our focus, the course offered so much more: a meaningful break from city life and technology, new friendships and the strengthening of old ones, and freedom to laugh and learn simultaneously. As Bruce says, “The best way to study birds is when you’re having so much fun, you don’t even realise you’re learning!”

No cellphone signal: The camp’s satellite phone is for emergency use only. Binoculars: This is perhaps the most important item that you will pack; buy, borrow or beg, but make sure you have a high-quality pair of optics. Field guides: Peruse the camp’s library early on in your trip. Hidden between the field guides, you will find historical texts such as TV Bulpin’s The Ivory Trail—a wonderful aid to immerse you in the unique history (both ecological and anthropological) that makes the Makuleke so special. In short, take your binos and bird books, but pack an unquenchable sense of curiosity and a good old-fashioned dose of adventurous spirit! To book a course or find out more: Tel: 013 752 2532 E-mail: enquiries@ecotraining.co.za www.ecotraining.co.za

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THE DIGITAL VERSION OF

The Intrepid Explorer

IS NOW AVAILABLE ON APPLE IPAD AND ANDROID TABLETS www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 2nd Quarter Edition 2015

Live the life of adventure

FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME

F R EE downloa d

Traversing 45 countries to Rugby World Cup

A LEGACY OF HOPE

Tribute to Dr Ian Player

FIRE & ICE

Hiking Iceland’s volcanoes

GIRLS GONE BIRDING

Lessons and laughter in the Kruger

SA FREEDIVING CHAMP HANLI PRINSLOO LEADS THE WAY IN OCEAN CONSERVATION OUR INTREPID CONTRIBUTORS: Braam Malherbe, Casey B. Dolan, Jeremy Loops & AJ Calitz R29.90 Incl. VAT 15006

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unexpected EXPECT THE

IN THIS NEW SERIES, ANGUS BEGG EXPLORES THE DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH THAT IS SOUTH AFRICA’S NORTHERN CAPE PROVINCE

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The Last Frontier. While that phrase may evoke images of European settlers moving west across America—leaving destruction, displacement, a peculiar form of civilisation and eventually Starbucks in their wake— in the world of travel it rings true for the Northern Cape.

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An gus B egg

ptly enough, as the original home to De Beers and of Kimberley’s Big Hole, this is South Africa’s unpolished diamond. This is where things are rough, where Wi-Fi is as rare as a rhino, and most locals will consider a ‘flat white’ to be a white person run over by a lonely lorry on the N7. As the word ‘intrepid’ is by definition mostly used for humorous (or rhetorical) effect, in this piece we look beyond Mike Horn-type adventures to challenges many regard as equally tough. Like doing without your daily cappuccino, having no talking-head radio in the car—apart from Namakwa 93.4 FM occasionally bursting its way through the static—and possibly the toughest test of all for contemporary travellers: being without Internet connection. This province has a habit of throwing up more happy surprises than most parts of the country. It is home to the unexpected. Like the coffee stop, Miershoop, I discovered at Bitterfontein rail siding a few years ago. Hardly a hamlet let alone a village, it’s the proverbial (caffeine) oasis in a parched, gravel landscape from which most of the country’s granite gets shipped north to Johannesburg for use in upmarket kitchen counters. Built by the municipality, the coffee brewed in an industrial, Italian espresso machine by the occasional trained hand at Miershoop was a relative lifesaver. But the Afrikaans Vredendal woman, who last year elevated the coffee and lunches to city status in an effort to forget the husband who left her after 30 years, has abandoned the shop. Today, a local named Francina runs it for the municipality. She told me over the phone that the machine has broken; that she’s using a plunger until they fix it... It’s easy to feel alone out here. Because you usually are. And therein lies its magic. This is where the Northern Cape opens up into its vast and arid self; and outside the often breathtaking flower season, unless you’re a geologist or similar soloist by occupation, it’s not a place for the faint-hearted.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

An gus B egg 62

The Northern Cape opens up into its vast and arid self; and outside the often breathtaking flower season, unless you’re a geologist or similar soloist by occupation, it’s not a place for the faint-hearted. In compiling a chapter on the province for an international travel guide, I had driven most of its roads and asked a lot of questions—where to get ‘that’ coffee among them. It was a typical case of wanting what you can’t have, until I eventually unearthed a quality cup in the provincial hub of Springbok. Caffe Bella is the name. Opened only last year, it is the best or only real, full-bodied coffee you will find until you reach Upington, some seven hours east on the N7. I even tried at the Italian restaurant some 90 minutes northwest of Springbok on the coast in Port Nolloth—a late 19th-century diamond-diving settlement established by the English in crayfish country. Conrad Mouton, a former South African soldier and now a specialist guide based in

emerges a character who could be the closest (in appearance) to a ‘frontiersman’ I have ever seen: This is George Moyses. After starting his career in the 1970s as a diver for the navy in Port Nolloth, with a nose for opportunity and a little wealth he hung around when he left the state’s employ and started diving for diamonds. “We’d get 50% of the diamonds we dived for, and De Beers got the other 50—it was a rip-off!” he says. He speaks of the danger of being sucked up by the massive worm-like industrial suction pipe, the centrifugal slurry pump used to suction the treasures deep on the ocean floor. You needed “guts or stupidity” to do it, says George, while relating the tale of his mate Ernie Foster who was trapped under a rock for

the little settlement, smirks when I raise the subject of real coffee. “It’s the limestone,” he says, enthusiastic eyes sparkling. “The lime blocks up the pipes.” And so the story is repeated in the other two or three eating establishments in town. While trying to entice me to join him on one of his private tours of the Richtersveld—South Africa’s last remaining true, remote wilderness—Conrad takes me to what looks like a 1970s holiday beach shack at the edge of the water on the edge of town. After probably five minutes of repeated knocking on the door, there

25 minutes with no air. Apparently Ernie survived. Today, living in that little asbestos beach shack for which he doesn’t pay rent—and which, he claims, was licked by the waters of the 2005 Asian tsunami before being pummelled by “the worst storm in living memory” in 2008—he runs the museum in Port Nolloth. It houses a compelling collection of everything that could interest most people, especially inhabitants of this country. Standing next to the 1980s Scope and Sunday Times magazine articles on the former town

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

mayor arrested for illicit diamond dealing (he owned 22 houses and businesses), George tells of the crooks who called this tiny town home, and of the morning he woke to find his girlfriend had fled with one of his prize diamonds. I think back to an investigative television story I produced on the scam surrounding the biggest land claim yet in South Africa, deep in the arid and rugged mountains of the Richtersveld, maybe an hour’s drive to the north. It was all about diamonds and how the chairperson of the community trust set up to oversee it,

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PREVIOUS PAGE: The Nieuwoudtville area is about three hours from Cape Town via the Pakhuis Pass—or go via Sutherland on the road seriously less travelled OPPOSITE: George Moyes’s asbestos house sits behind the creative flotsam and knick-knacks next to the ocean MIDDLE TOP: Oorlogskloof Nature Reserve. If staying at Papkuilsfontein, Willem will give you a lift to the edge—it’s on their farm. MIDDLE BOTTOM: Spur-winged geese loving spring on a patch in Papkuilsfontein THIS PAGE: Port Nolloth beachfront, across the road from the ocean and next door to George’s museum

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for sheep) to relative regional oblivion. “You know what farmers are like, always quick to shoot,” says Willem. This apparent massacre took place in Oorlogskloof (now a nature reserve), itself an unexpected and quite dramatic, deep gorge situated around a high waterfall up on the Bokkeveld plateau, adjacent to what is today Mariette and Willem’s sheep and guest farm, Papkuilsfontein. Happily, Willem is more comfortable with conserving jackals, Bushmen paintings and delicate bulbs— with names such as romulan and sparaxis— than a rifle. Beyond hiking and bike riding, the adventures in the Papkuilsfontein area seem to tend toward the culinary. While being mildly famed for the ginger beer made by more Van Wyks (related to

A few hours to the southeast, in the northern extremes of the Cederberg, outside Nieuwoudtville, Mariette van Wyk clucks when her farming husband Willem says his ancestors were “probably responsible” for shooting out the last Bushmen in the Northern Cape. Two Van Wyk brothers had been among the first Dutch settlers to settle this area, apparently in the late 18th century, and Willem says it was at the battle of Oorlogskloof that his early farming forefathers and their comrades perpetrated that dark deed, committing those early rock artists (who also had a taste

Willem) and served at a nearby padstal, Papkuilsfontein is also home to Mariette’s contemporary take on farm-style cooking, and her daughter Alri’s quite remarkable cakes. The coffee isn’t bad, either. This is beautiful, rugged country, and I haven’t yet touched on one of South Africa’s most appealing and ‘improved’ drives: along the Orange River, between Upington and Augrabies Falls. That’s the contradiction of this province of such magnificent appeal. Get here before the others do. The Northern Cape is a big place. Angus will be back with more soon.

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was using the trust monies for himself, his mates and family. A little like your typical police TV drama, a car follows me and my colleague wherever we go. While the vehicle wasn’t hard to notice on a long and straight isolated dirt road, more concerning to us at the time was what could happen when we put our heads to our respective pillows in our lonely (but wonderful, run by a mother and daughter) guest house some 10km outside the regional diamond-extraction capital that is Alexander Bay. It’s easy to let one’s mind wander in a deserted land where it is notoriously easy to ‘buy off’ the police and even easier to hide a body... In the reassuring light of day, I tell Conrad I will one day return for a shipwreck tour and a spot of diving with his crayfish dinners.

hope

A LEGACY OF IAN MCCALLUM PAYS TRIBUTE TO LEGENDARY CONSERVATIONIST DR IAN PLAYER AND HIS BROTHER-IN-ARMS, MAGQUBU NTOMBELA

Soldier, adventurer, game ranger, conservationist, activist, author, leader, visionary, speaker, dreamer…... There is so much to admire about Dr Ian Player—and deservedly so. I had the privilege of honouring him and his beloved friend Magqubu Ntombela at The Klipdrift/The Intrepid Explorer Golden Awards in February this year.

o man is an island, wrote the poet John Donne—and it is true. The identity for which we all strive and for which we are ultimately known is impossible to define outside of our relationships, not only with others but with the animals and with the landscapes in which we live. They shape us in much the same way as we shape them. Think about it: The people and the landscapes we love become a physical part of us, ingrained in our synapses, in the pathways where memories are created. The identity of any human being, therefore, is impossible to define outside of relationships. It is in this light that we draw attention to and honour the intertwined lives of Dr Ian Player and Magqubu Ntombela—their partnership, their shared values, their deep

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Dr I a n Pla yer prepared to speak at a function like this, then I would be happy to do so as well. He laughed and told me he was thinking along the same lines: If a rugby player was prepared to speak at a function like this, then maybe he could as well. That was it. But remember, we did not know what the other would be saying. At the Johannesburg event, I spoke enthusiastically about the relationship between the inner, microscopic world and the outer, macroscopic environment. Ian, on the other hand, spoke of the Wilderness Leadership School, highlighting the positive yet immeasurable impact of wilderness on the lives of individuals who had been on trail with him: four days and nights in the wild, sleeping under the stars; participating in the essential but solitary night watch around the fire; the hours of silent walking and the growing appreciation of the meaning of solitude. Stripped of our dependency on technology

four walls and roof of a bungalow at night. I had found my spiritual home. On the third night of our four-day trail, Ntombela presented me with a gift. It was a branch from the Ziziphus mucronata (buffalo thorn tree). In Zulu, it is called the mpafa tree, and in Afrikaans the “blinkblaarwag-‘n-bietjie”. On every branch there are two rows of thorns: one pointing robustly outward, and another hooking in a backward direction. “The thorns on this tree tell you how you must live your life,” he said. “The forward-pointing thorns tell you to look ahead, to think of the future generations, to follow your dreams. The thorns that hook tell you that you must never forget where you have come from; it is about being thankful.” I do not know of a more profound yet simple philosophy than that. What a gift. Dr Player passed away peacefully at his home in the Karkloof Valley on Sunday, 30 November 2014—21 years after the

He never apologised for what he was occasionally accused of: his emotional stand on environmental issues. “Dammit!” he would say, “Environmental issues are emotional issues!”

friendship and mutual respect; two men equally at home in the wild as they were in their respective human communities. They loved each other at the level of the synapse. I first met Ian Player in 1981. We were co-presenters at a one-day seminar in Johannesburg. The theme of the seminar centred on the psychology of healing. In those days, this kind of subject was somewhat negatively branded as fringe or ‘new age’. In the week prior to that event, I learnt Ian had still not made up his mind as to whether or not he would attend. I immediately asked for his telephone number and I called. Upon answering, I introduced myself and informed him that the only reason I had accepted was because of him: If a game ranger was

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and urban demands, he regaled, the wilderness offered those who had entered it the humbling realisation of what it means to co-exist with wild animals. To me, everything he said in his presentation hinged on the meaning of one word, ‘respect’—self-respect, respect for the animal ‘other’ and, more specifically, to respect the fact that we are guests in today’s designated yet threatened habitats of wild animals. In effect, he was speaking about the healing significance of wilderness. The theme of healing, as I wish to show, is relevant to this tribute. Within a month of this first meeting, I went on trail with him and the wonderful Ntombela. It was the first time I had ever been into the wild on foot, without the safety of the windscreen of a car or the

passing of his Zulu soulmate, Magqubu. Ian was 87 years of age. His final peaceful surrender contrasted sharply with the way he lived his life, with the way he dealt with his ailing body and, ultimately, his own mortality. The Welsh poet Dylan Thomas would have been proud of him. He raged against the dying of the light—not simply his own dying but against the toxic darkness of human indifference to the damage it is inflicting on Nature. He did “not go gentle into that good night”. On 14 January this year, I had the daunting privilege of delivering the eulogy for this truly remarkable man. There were at least 800 people in attendance at the ceremony at Hilton College, near Pietermaritzburg. The commemorative service and

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Dr I a n Pla yer

unveiling of a carved stone memorial honouring the life of Magqubu Ntombela, on the other hand, was a little different. This took place at his muzi, his home, at Mfolozi in August 2012, nineteen years after his passing. Six thousand people— including King Goodwill Zwelithini and then Premier of KwaZulu-Natal, Dr Zweli Mkhize—attended. Here was a man of no small influence. Dr Player’s long list of honours is testimony to his credibility; they include two honorary doctorates and too many other awards to mention. What cannot remain unacknowledged, however, is his founding of the Wilderness Leadership School (1957), the Wilderness Foundation (1974) and the internationally acclaimed Wilderness Congress (1977). The latter is a four-yearly event which, over the years—through his efforts and later those of Vance Martin and Andrew Muir—has brought together many of the world’s most prominent environmental campaigners, photographers, conservation scientists, artists and journalists such as Jane Goodall,

placement of many of the survivors to other national parks throughout the country as well as to sanctuaries in the United States and Europe. And, lest we forget, Ntombela was a humble yet central player in the positive outcome of this operation. Without this initiative, it is almost certain that these creatures would have been classified as extinct today. Today, Dr Player’s name is synonymous with the present lively yet seriously threatened status of the white rhino in our country. Sadly, it would appear this appalling early history of rhino slaughter is repeating itself, but this time round with unprecedented intensity—and this time round, no Ian Player, no Magqubu Ntombela. All we have is the legacy of these two men, among others, who have nourished the values of the two organisations Dr Player founded: the Wilderness Leadership School (WLS) and the Wilderness Foundation. There are other highly credible organisations in this country and abroad which share the same concern for the future of these

causes, along with the present stockpiles of horns in the vaults of South African National Parks. He saw this as one possible way of reducing the demand in the key user countries, namely China and Vietnam. The reference to sport hunting is not accurate, as Dr Player supported the broad principle of sustainable utilisation, particularly where it directly benefited local communities living close to game reserves. Understandably, and in his latter years, he was prepared to support anything that may stem the tide— including his support for the current educational approach of the WLS and Wilderness Foundation. We do not claim to have the blueprint. There is no one blueprint. There is no one solution. The most we can do is choose what we believe is a well-considered consensus of direction toward a long-term outcome of positive global significance, not only for these animals but for all wildlife. This is the future of human co-existence with wild animals. This is a fight for human sanity.

I once asked him to imagine

a world without rhino, and his response was immediate: “Over my dead body.”

Sylvia Earle, Wangari Maathai and others. But back to his history. An adventurer in his own right, Ian was the founder of the Natal Canoe Club; in 1950, he initiated the world-famous Dusi Canoe Marathon, winning the epic 110-mile event on three occasions. And now for the origins and meat of the reputation for which, it would seem, Dr Player will be most remembered: his fight for the future of the white rhino in South Africa. As a game ranger for the Natal Parks Board in the early 1950s, inspired by the efforts of previous park wardens Vaughan Kirby and Captain HB Potter to protect the remaining white rhino in the Umfolozi, Ian and pilot Hendrik van Schoor conducted the first aerial count of the sole surviving group. The unforgettable number was 437! In 1960, as a senior warden, alarmed by what he described as “the horrific poaching” of these animals, he initiated and directed the famous Operation Rhino relocation programme. The result was the successful

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animals and which are committed to finding solutions (not all in the same way) to this appalling criminal situation. I salute them for their commitment—but not, necessarily, their methodology. In a recently completed documentary proclaiming to be the blueprint for the survival of the rhino population, Dr Player is quoted as being entirely supportive of this ‘plan’: sport hunting and farming of rhinos, hand in hand with the legalisation of the sale of the animals’ horns. As a former trustee of the WLS and, presently, a director of the Wilderness Foundation, it is important that I offer not only the present official stand on this issue, but that I put his quotes into a broader perspective. First of all, the quotes attributed to the late Dr Player need to be seen in context and also as his personal opinion and not that of the two organisations he founded. He made it very clear that the limited trade in rhino horn he was prepared to support was restricted to the sale of horns from animals that had died of natural

Our chosen direction has two prongs: The first is an education-based, demandreduction policy as well as a hands-on protection approach to the future well-being of the species. Already, considerable work involving local celebrities is under way in Vietnam. They include high-profile individuals who are personally highlighting the absurdity of the medicinal and status use of rhino horn in their country. And in April, the first two contingents of the Wild Rhino Competition-winning scholars from Vietnam arrived in South Africa for a classic wilderness trail in the iMfolozi Game Reserve. The trails, led by the WLS, contribute to the anti-poaching effort through its main focus of using education and awareness to develop an understanding of wilderness, wildlife and ecological principles—including the immeasurable spiritual experience of wilderness. Hence, our second prong. Mindful of the words of the philosopher Friedrich

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Like many who knew him, I will remember him for his enduring spirit of respect for the wilderness. I will remember him most of all, however, as a loyal friend and as a man who was very human. We did not always agree with each other; we didn’t have to, and it is precisely this that protected me from the paralysis of hero worship. Ours was a long friendship in which we dissected sport, politics and dreams, but we always came back to the fight for the wilderness. And how can anyone forget his laughter? Tears would roll down his cheeks as he put his head back and roared with delight. No one else could laugh like he did, and I loved to make him laugh. And then there was his voice. When he spoke, it was like listening to a firm but subdued roar—a kind of territorial call. He knew his turf, the wilderness, and he was prepared to protect and die for it. I once asked him to imagine a world without rhino, and his response was immediate: “Over my dead body.” Dr Player was a leader; he took charge. He fought for what he believed in, determined to have his way at times—but he also knew the cost. There is a certain loneliness that all leaders have to endure and more. I believe he was aware of that strange human truth, that you will often be disliked by those who see you as different—not because you are different but because you are doing what they cannot. He has been quoted as saying the measure of one’s success in conservation

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is reflected by the number of enemies you have made. I think otherwise. Yes, there will always be adversaries. Sometimes we need them to keep a check on our own blind spots. But to me, the measure of Dr Player’s success is surely the number of people he inspired. To highlight the essence of a man who stirred the imagination of so many, and who certainly stirred mine, I would like to quote from a letter he wrote me in September 1995. He was on a safari with two American friends in the Savuti Channel of northern Botswana. I was preparing to travel to that same country to meet with (the now late) John Hardbattle, an eloquent and handsome half-Bushman campaigner and director of the First People of the Kalahari trust in Botswana. “Dear Ian, a short note to welcome you to the last remaining piece of God’s country. Ian Michler told me that you may be seeing John Hardbattle. It appears he is having a struggle to ensure settlement rights for the poor remaining Bushmen. I will be in London next month (if I survive the Anopheles [malariacausing mosquitoes] and the Glossina morsitans [tsetse flies] who have fed grandly upon me). I will be staying with Laurens van der Post, so will mention it to him too, but Hardbattle should write to him and ask him to take the matter up with the Botswana ambassador in the UK… It is grotesque that in 1995 the poor bloody Bushmen should have no rights at all. I feel for them as I do for St Lucia, too; our species seems hell bent on destroying everything that is wild.” He signed off, “Yours, Madolo.” This letter says so much about the man. He cared. He was compassionate. He knew his Latin names. He raged. He gave a damn! This is a leadership quality. Lest we forget, rage is a hard-wired emotion in the brains of all vertebrates. He never apologised for what he was occasionally accused of: his emotional stand on environmental issues. “Dammit!” he would say, “Environmental issues are emotional issues!” Finally, I would like to draw attention to the way Dr Player signed this letter. Madolo is the Nguni word for ‘knee’. As a young boy, a post-injury septic arthritis resulted in a disfiguring adjustment to the shape and function of his right knee.

It might have put an end to any dreams of success on rugby and cricket fields, but it did not dampen his determination to overcome his handicap. Instead, he turned to canoeing. One can only wonder how much his attitude to that injury fuelled his attitude to life in general and to the fight for wilderness in particular. I asked my Xhosa-speaking domestic worker what it meant to be given the Nguni name meaning ‘knee’. She did not hesitate in replying: “It means that the person is down to earth, that he knows how to kneel—that he knows what it means to pray.” What more can one say? The battle for the future of wilderness is in the balance. It is time to pray. It is time to salute two remarkable men.

Dr I a n Pla yer

Nietzsche, that “convictions are more dangerous foes of truth than lies”, we choose to build bridges, to foster conciliation between those whose only difference is that of their chosen methodology. This, we believe, is the deeper longing and legacy of Dr Ian Player and Magqubu Ntombela and others: that there are some things simply not for sale. Their legacy—like many of the pioneering poets, writers and campaigners for the wild—has been their commitment and dedication to the conservation and protection of wild areas. We choose to honour this legacy. Regarding his personal fight for wilderness, I knew Dr Player to be both driven and tireless, reminding me of the lines of a poem by Robert Frost: The woods are lovely, dark and deep, But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep, And miles to go before I sleep.

In 1999, I wrote this poem. I dedicate it to Dr Ian Player and Magqubu Ntombela. Wilderness Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place, but a pattern of soul where every tree, every bird and beast is a soul maker? Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place but a moving feast of stars, scales, footprints and beginnings? Since when did we become afraid of the night and that only the bright stars count or that our moon is not a moon unless it is full? By whose command were the animals, through groping fingers, one for each hand reduced to the big and the little five? Have we forgotten that every creature is within us, carried by tides of earthly blood and that we named them? Have we forgotten that wilderness is not a place but a season and that we are in its final hour?

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bind

THE TIES THAT THE INAUGURAL GOLDEN AWARDS, HOSTED BY KLIPDRIFT AND THE INTREPID EXPLORER, RECENTLY TOOK PLACE AT GOLD RESTAURANT IN GREEN POINT, CAPE TOWN

TOP: Editor Robbie Stammers, Klipdrift hostess, Toks Viviers, Ram Barkai, Kieron Palframan, Andrew Chin, Ryan Stramrood and Ashley Hurst ABOVE (LEFT): Robbie Stammers, Klipdrift hostess, Vaughan de la Harpe, Sean Disney and Ashley Hurst ABOVE (RIGHT): Robbie Stammers, Kyle Villet, Keith Hill, Zaid Haffejee and Tony Diekmann

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Klipdr if t G old Awa r ds The awards were a tribute to the golden moments that entrench the brotherhood of men. The evening was a great success and a true testament to the human spirit, to determination, to greatness, and to friends who work together to achieve pure gold!

TOP: The Klipdrift/The Intrepid Explorer GOLDEN AWARD trophy ABOVE (LEFT): Robbie Stammers, Klipdrift hostess, Mhleli Ntombela, Dr Ian McCallum and Ashley Hurst ABOVE (RIGHT): Robbie Stammers, Boy & Callie Geldenhuys (Vastiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parents), Kliprift hostess and Ashley Hurst

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Klipdr if t G old Awa r ds

LEFT: Sibusiso Vilane and Saray Khumalo RIGHT: Steven Kitchoff, Ashley Hurst, Eric van Zyl and Nic Lombard

he Golden Awards acknowledge explorers whose adventures have showcased great friendship and perseverance—bonding to overcome any challenging obstacles— and a remarkable thirst for adventure. All the award recipients have also assisted the plight of the environment in some way, helping to create a sustainable future for generations to come and showcasing conservation and what can be achieved when we stand together for one goal. We commended the following South Africans who consistently have pushed boundaries to succeed: The Gold Explorer Award was won by Sean Disney and Vaughan de la Harpe, who became the first South Africans to achieve the Explorers Grand Slam—the successful summit of the highest mountain on each of the seven

continents, as well as ski hauls to both the North and South Poles. They have joined a prestigious club that presently counts 35 people in the world as its members. Riaan Manser and Vasti Geldenhuys, who recently completed a staggering 120-day, 10 765-kilometre crossing of the North Atlantic Ocean by rowing from Morocco to New York, were the recipients of The Gold Adventurer Award, with Vasti’s father collecting the award on their behalf with a touching speech. There were two Gold Endurance Awards given to two amazing teams. The first was awarded to Sibusiso Vilane and Saray Khumalo for their numerous ascents of Mount Everest; the second was to the team of Ryan Stramrood, Andrew Chin, Gavin Pike, Ram Barkai, Kieron Palframan and Toks Viviers for their unprecedented attempt to complete a swim in Antarctica, which saw Stramrood,

Viviers and Pike finishing an official Ice Mile as per the rules of the International Ice Swimming Association, in waters officially measured at -1°C in Neko Harbour, Antarctica. The final award recognised two individuals who gave selflessly of themselves, for their outstanding dedication and exceptional contribution to the world around them. The Golden Lifetime Achievement Awards went posthumously to Dr Ian Player and Magquba Ntombela. We were privileged to have Ian McCallum, internationally recognised environmentalist and conservationist, and dear friend of Dr Player, delivering an enthralling speech on the incredible life of Ian Player (see elsewhere in this edition). He handed over the award to Dr Player’s daughter and sister, with Ntombela’s grandson, Mhleli, accepting the award on behalf of his grandfather.

LEFT: Family of the late Dr Ian Player: Kenny Wilson, Wilma Jacobs and Gayle Wilson RIGHT: Paulette & AJ Calitz

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Laying

foundations

for the

future

• • • • •

Arts & Culture Environment Entrepreneurship Job creation Prevention of FASD (Fetal Alcohol Spectrum Disorder)

• Skills development (Life skills, training & education focusing on Youth Development)

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AJ C a litz

Crossing

PATHS

AJ CALITZ SWAPS HIS TRAIL-RUNNING SHOES FOR A MOUNTAIN BIKE

Even with mountains as beautiful as ours, running every day gets monotonous sometimes. What, then, does a mountain goat do when the peaks don’t offer the fulfilment they used to?

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I emailed the guys from Merida Bikes South Africa and asked whether they could help out. A couple of days later, I was on a brand spanking new Merida mountain bike, rekindling my love for

I would go on a ‘game’ ride through the Koeberg Private Nature Reserve; with free entry and about 50 kilometres of beautiful jeep track, it’s the perfect place for a relaxed cruise watching zebra, eland, springbok

It’s incredible how one’s perspective changes from running to cycling: One is able to travel so much

further and faster on a bike, and spend way more hours out there.

the trails in a different way. The next few weeks I spent countless hours on the road, on the trail, on the beach—wherever I could ride, I did! It’s incredible how one’s perspective changes from running to cycling: One is able to travel so much further and faster on a bike, and spend way more hours out there. Barring the fact that one’s backside needs to adapt to riding, which takes a while and could be somewhat painful, thereafter it’s sheer bliss: no compulsory gear, no foot stomping—just quiet, beautiful, winding single tracks. We’re blessed with some of the most beautiful mountain bike tracks in the world in and around Cape Town, and I revelled in finding new tracks and roads to explore. With the new cycling paths all over Cape Town, there are also some really fun ‘city trails’ to be had, which are as technical as you wish them to be; free from traffic, it’s an urban-jungle dream ride. Near my hometown of Melkbos,

and other animals—all of this only 10km from the comfort of your own home. The very best part is that I’ve found my running has also improved—a lot! I’m climbing better, running stronger for longer and generally having more fun on the trails. One can learn so much from other sports: When running down a tricky section, I use the skills I’ve learnt on the mountain bike to go faster. The motion of riding while you’re standing up is basically identical to the form used when climbing stairs or a steep mountainous section in trail running. I’ve by no means lost my love of the mountains, nor running in them. Riding simply provides a new perspective. And when we change our perspective, we change ourselves. When I picked up the bike, I had no idea how much fun I would have, nor how I would benefit from it. They say the grass is always greener on the other side—but if you stand with one foot on either side, it will always be green.

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ou have one of two choices: Find new mountains, which is often a time-consuming and expensive exercise; or do something completely different. Go hiking, road cycling, mountain biking, surfing, kiting, skiing, bodysurfing, rowing, swimming— or whatever else tickles your fancy! I’ve found the greatest fulfilment comes from trying something new, at which I’m terrible initially, but I keep doing it until it becomes another skill set in my quiver. My latest cross-training adventure has been mountain biking. Years ago, I used to ride a fair amount in the beautiful Jonkershoek Valley just above Stellenbosch, but having moved to the West Coast put a stop to my riding. Then, during February this year, having run every trail on Table Mountain for the umpteenth time, I decided I needed a change.

AJ C a litz ÂŠTREVOR WILKINS

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CLOUDY, WITH A CHANCE OF

ADVENTURE WITH THE RIGHT CLOTHING AND ACCESSORIES, WINTER IS ONE OF THE BEST TIMES TO GET OUTDOORS. NICK DALL HAS YOU COVERED

It’s that time of year again: The cold fronts are rolling in and, if it’s not actually raining yet in your area, there’s no doubt it’s getting chilly. As famous explorer and adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes said, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate gear.” In this edition, we round up the hottest kit in South Africa, with particular focus on down—the world’s best insulator.

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K-Way Men’s Siberia Down Jacket R1 599

K-Way Men’s Siberia Down Jacket

Siberia is one of the coldest places on the planet, but not if you’re wearing this jacket! The outer is made from nylon and polyester, while the filling is superior goose down. Down doesn’t just keep you warmer than any other fibre, it also remains remarkably odour-free (even after days of continuous use) and is supremely breathable. The adjustable hem and cuffs allow you to keep the cold air out (or allow some in), while numerous pockets ensure there’s somewhere for everything. Little things such as the angled zip on the chest pocket (which means that whatever’s in there won’t jiggle) and the chic red trim complete this very impressive package.

K-Way Men’s Mallard Hooded Down Jacket R1 999

K-Way Men’s Mallard Hooded Down Jacket

What sets the Mallard apart from K-Way’s other down jackets is its 850g fill power— there is, quite simply, more loft in this jacket. Which means more insulation, and an ability to withstand more extreme weather conditions. It is 100% windproof and breathable, and a DWR (durable water repellent) coating means there’s no need to wear a shell (rain jacket) in light drizzle. Unless you’re doing the Drakensberg Traverse in July, there are few South African conditions that will get the most out of this behemoth. Rather take it to the Alps or the Andes to test its worth…

K-Way Men’s Barnacle Hooded Down Jacket

K-Way Men’s Barnacle Hooded Down Jacket R1 499

K-Way Men’s Drake Down Jacket R1 299

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With its dashing blue and yellow colourway, the Barnacle has some serious va-va-voom. But it’s so much more than a pretty face. Down is the world’s best insulator, and K-Way uses only the best of the best. The jacket is both lightweight and easily compressible, but the natural wonder that is down means it’s also seriously warm, windproof and breathable, and a DWR coating keeps it drier for longer. If you’re looking for a jacket that’s as suited to the hipster bars of Woodstock as it is to the slopes of the Sneeuberg, this is your man.

K-Way Men’s Drake Down Jacket

If it ain’t broke, why fix it? The Drake was K-Way’s first down jacket and it’s still one of its most popular. If you’re looking for one jacket to get you through the next five or 10 winters, look no further. The Drake doesn’t do gimmicky features. Instead, it focuses on doing the basics exceptionally well: a windproof, breathable shell and a duck down filling. Down is guaranteed to keep you toastier than any substance known to man, but it’s also quite literally as light as a feather—the Drake weighs in at a mind-boggling 280g! What’s more, the jacket comes in a variety of colour combos ranging from demure to funky.

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K-Way Ladies’ Tasman Down Coat R1 999

K-Way Ladies’ Alyeska Down Vest

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K-Way Ladies’ Alyeska Down Vest R999

When wearing a down jacket, it’s quite possible to get too warm—even if you’re surrounded by snow. This is especially true if you’re skiing, snowboarding or engaging in some other energy-sapping pursuit. This is where a down vest such as the K-Way Alyeska comes in handy. A vest keeps the parts that matter (your internal organs) well insulated, but allows your arms freedom of movement and deals with perspiration before it even starts. The Alyeska has the same tech specs as the Swan, but it’s lighter and more compressible.

K-Way Ladies’ Tasman Down Coat

The K-Way Tasman is a meeting of form and function like no other. In the past, South Africans’ exposure to knee-length down coats was restricted to Hollywood movies and jealous glances on the London Tube—but now you, too, can experience the ultimate comfort of a proper winter coat, at a rand-friendly price. It’s great for the mid-winter commute, European business trips, and weekends in the ‘Berg, and the removable (faux) fur trim on the hood allows you to dress it up or down depending on the occasion. The Tasman is proof that fashion and technical performance don’t need to be mutually exclusive.

K-Way Women’s Swan Down Jacket

If you’re new to the wonders of down, the Swan is an excellent place to start, offering exceptional performance at an affordable price. Featuring a synthetic outer and 100% natural duck down filling, it’s a very well thought-out product with useful features such as a wind baffle behind the main zip. It doesn’t have a DWR coating, so you’ll want to don a rain jacket as soon as the clouds burst. Like all K-Way down jackets, it is machine-washable (we recommend using Storm Down Wash). It comes in a broad spectrum of colours, so you could even get two…

K-Way Women’s Eider Down Jacket

The K-Way Eider is fighting the ‘Cold War’ and winning! It’s a serious piece of technical apparel that’s windproof, water-shedding and filled with the world’s finest goose down. Down is hypoallergenic, which ensures there’ll be no sneezes or sniffles on your next adventure. The Eider is K-Way’s flagship ladies’ outdoor jacket, and it can handle absolutely anything Nature can throw at it. It comes in two super colourways: one subtle, the other not so much.

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K-Way Women’s Swan Down Jacket R1 299

K-Way Women’s Eider Down Jacket R1 599

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Tr a vel gea r

K-Way Sherpa Expedition Gear Bag K-Way Sherpa Expedition Gear Bag R1 199

K-Way Kilimanjaro 2 ThermaShift Down Sleeping Bag R2 799

For some trips, a regular gear bag will do the trick. But if you’re headed into extreme conditions, you need something that’s cut from different cloth. The Sherpa Expedition Gear Bag is constructed from water-resistant fabric and has siliconised zippers. Featuring myriad nifty pockets for your various belongings, it’s the battle-ready holdall you can’t do without. Like all of the best Sherpas, it’s most at home above the snow-line and has been tested on Mount Elbrus in Russia, at Everest Base Camp and in some of South Africa’s toughest landscapes.

K-Way Kilimanjaro 2 ThermaShift Down Sleeping Bag

It’s impossible to get a good night’s rest if your toes feel like they’re about to fall off and your teeth are chattering like a saucepan on the boil. Which is why you need the K-Way Kilimanjaro 2 ThermaShift. Forget three-season bags; this bad boy is guaranteed to keep you warm and toasty at temperatures as low as minus 8°C. The secret to the Kilimanjaro 2’s warmth lies in the goose down filling, as down is much warmer, lighter and longer lasting than any of its synthetic rivals. It’s a versatile sleeping bag, too: Foot zippers allow you to poke your toes out of the bottom on a midsummer’s night, and the adjustable cowl means you can really batten down the hatches as you near the summit of Kilimanjaro. There’s also an XL version (R3 499), which has the same features but is a bit longer and wider, and contains 100g more feathers.

K-Way Vista 4-Person Tent

K-Way Vista 4-Person Tent R1 999

For practicality and sturdiness, you simply can’t beat a dome tent, and the K-Way Vista is from the very top drawer. It’s oh-so-easy to put up (and take down), spacious enough for most adults to stand in, and it boasts a siliconised flysheet with a 1 500mm waterhead to keep the rain out. Mosquito netting means you can let some fresh air in without being obliged to invite the insect world, and reflective guy ropes are specifically designed for that moment when Nature calls at 3 a.m. When choosing a tent, remember that a four-person version can fit four adults without any bags. In reality, the Vista is probably best suited to a family with young kids or a group of three adults and their luggage. Other K-Way classic dome tents are the two-person Solitude (R1 199), the three-person Panorama (R1 499) and the six-person Horizon (R2 499).

Intex Classic Downy Airbed

Intex Classic Downy Airbed (Double) R299

As anyone who’s spent even a single night sleeping on the hard South African ground will attest, you can go without many things, but a decent mattress is not one of them. Air mattresses tick all the boxes: They’re super-comfy, they pack up small, and they provide a hefty layer of insulation between you and the icy ground. Intex is the most trusted name in the business, and this number has a waterproof flocked top and a 2-in-1 valve for fast and easy inflation and deflation. Just remember to pack a pump. And to check for thorns before you pitch the tent!

Cape Union 4-Seater Folding Table Cape Union 4-Seater Folding Table R499

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

It may sound melodramatic, but a table really can be the difference between a pleasant winter camping holiday and a fortnight of chaos and confusion. This aluminium table is both lightweight and strong, and folds flat for easy storage in your boot or trailer. It’s perfect for preparing meals and for eating— and even though it’s advertised as a four-seater, you could probably squeeze six around it.

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Gorilla Trekking Himalayas Inca Trail Kilimanjaro Mt Kenya Patagonia Ruwenzoris Serengeti Walking Safari Simien Mountains

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A D VA N C E H I K E 4 • Wool blend to keep feet warm in winter and cool in summer • Asymmetrical Left & Right toe design • Full volume cushioning

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On the

WILD SIDE We give you the inside scoop on the outside world. We look at some of the astounding feats that are being

accomplished by intrepid people and places; new developments and books on offer; and a host of events on the calendar to diarise in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So what are you waiting for? Get out there and make the most of the outdoors! Compiled by Robbie Stammers

Go wild for another day!

et your fourth night free when you stay with Wild Frontiers in its Serengeti Wilderness Camp. This incredible offer allows you an extra day to explore the Serengeti, giving you more time to track the wildebeest, or look for that elusive leopard, do some more birdwatching, or even book an early-morning champagne balloon safari. The intimate wilderness camp is located in the centre of the Serengeti National Park, allowing easy access to all areas. With just 10 tents, the camp offers an exclusive experience to guests, with

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

lovely, spacious and well-appointed tents, great service and food—all in a beautiful location overlooking the plains. This is a one-time opportunity, with the free night valued at over R4 000—it’s a no-brainer! Book now, as this offer expires on 30 June 2015, and the camp is literally surrounded by wildebeest as this edition goes to press. For more details on this, and any other Wild Frontiers bucket-list safaris, telephone 011 702 2035, email reservations@wildfrontiers.com or visit www.wildfrontiers.com.

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A coating for all seasons

Reflections on the front surface of spectacle lenses are a nuisance. They are distracting both for the wearers themselves and for anyone with whom they make eye contact. The new ZEISS DuraVision anti-reflective coatings are the answer. A new pair of specs doesn’t come cheap, but you can maximise the enjoyment you get from wearing them and the lifetime of your lenses by making smart choices when making a purchase. If you ask your optometrist to apply a ZEISS DuraVision anti-reflective coating to your lenses, you’ll be choosing an anti-reflective coating that admits 20% more light through the lens, which means clearer vision for the wearer and a significant (by 20%) reduction in irritating reflections on the lens surface. They are also equipped with a built-in easy-care system that makes your spectacles not only simple to clean but also anti-static and dust-repellent. Although a ZEISS lens coating is 250 times thinner than an ordinary piece of paper, it is extremely tough and will equip your lenses to handle life’s daily bangs and bashes. Its integrated system of nine ultra-thin coating layers, densely packed using ion-assisted deposition, results in an ultra-hard lens surface. ZEISS DuraVision anti-reflective coatings are available from most optometrists, or call ZEISS on (011) 538 4200 to find your nearest supplier. See www.zeiss.co.za/vision for further details.

Survival – Bear Grylls style

The world’s foremost authority on all things survival, Bear Grylls, has teamed up with South Africa’s action/adventure specialist, Group73, to bring the Bear Grylls Survival Academy to the country. Bear Grylls has become the most recognised face of survival and outdoor adventure, with experience gained through service in the British Special Forces and his countless missions to every area of extreme terrain the world has to offer. From the Emmy Award-winning Man vs. Wild to Worst-Case Scenario and Running Wild with Bear Grylls among others, his shows have amazed, inspired and captured the world’s attention. He has taken this knowledge and experience and applied it to a comprehensive, challenging and ultimately rewarding survival adventure course, which will be offered throughout 2015 in South Africa. A wide variety of survival skills will be covered, so expect some very ‘exotic’ snacks, breathtaking abseiling, a helicopter landing, as well as learning astronavigation and trap-and-snare skills to mention a few. Here’s what Bear had to say: “Over the [course of ] 24 hours, you’re going to be learning how to survive in this challenging but beautiful environment, with the expert help of our instructors. You are going to be using the open plains, challenging rock features and the mountains to run, crawl, climb and scramble your way over the terrain. It’s all about empowering you with dynamic (and potentially) life-saving skills. You’re going to love it!” Group73 is no stranger to outdoor adventure and action, either. From airborne adventures, to extreme action simulations and hands-on consultation to the movie industry, its instructors continue to apply their significant skill sets and experience to provide an unmatched service in their genre. According to Craig Hicks, Group73’s marketing communications manager, “Teaming up with the Bear Grylls Survival Academy is something we’re extremely proud of, and we guarantee an experience second to none.” To be part of this truly unique and challenging experience, or for further information, see www.group73.co/bgsa or email: bgsa@group73.co.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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Luxury in harmony with nature The Intrepid Explorer recently visited Grootbos Forest Lodge. Nestled between mountain and sea, the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve is an eco-paradise showcasing the incredible flora and marine life of the southern tip of Africa. Home of the ‘Marine Big 5’—whales, sharks, dolphins, seals and penguins— and with unparalleled floral diversity, Grootbos offers a one-of-a-kind luxury African experience. Only two hours from Cape Town and 30 minutes from Hermanus on the way to the worldrenowned Garden Route, Grootbos is perfectly situated between the classic attractions of the Cape and is most certainly a highlight on any itinerary. The name Grootbos, an Afrikaans word meaning ‘big forest’, is derived from the presence of the area’s ancient milkwood forests. Milkwood trees are known to grow to over 1 000 years old, and their gnarled branches and mossy beards create an enchanting atmosphere of deep soothing tranquility and rejuvenation. It is among these ancient forests that Grootbos has artfully laid out its exquisite 5-star accommodation offerings, with breathtaking views across the fynbos plains toward the sparkling whale sanctuary of Walker Bay in the distance. This is definitely a place to visit at any time of the year. Visit www.grootbos.com or e-mail: bookings@grootbos.co.za.

my-powa is your power

Increased loadshedding and endless electricity price hikes continue to haunt South Africa. “The sad reality is that the current situation will get a lot worse, before we see any improvement,” says Ryan Steytler, energy expert and director of the Sungrid Group (In2Brands), which is focused on providing viable and alternative solutions to the South African consumer. Its latest offering, Solsave, offers consumers a full range of alternative energy choices comprising both smaller and heavier portable off-grid power options. Its flagship offering, the Solsave my-powa!, a solar power bank making use of the latest Sun Power Cell technology, is able to quickly generate power with a world-record efficiency panel. A mere 10 hours of direct sunlight provide enough power to charge all essential devices including phone, tablet, camera, MP3 player, eReader, GPS, action cameras and smart watches. “But the real beauty is that for those who choose, Solsave’s my-powa! can also be charged via a conventional wall plug (USB wall charger) for maximum convenience,” says Steytler. So compact that it fits in your pocket, the solar charger is equipped with a 2 200mAh Li-Po battery. It offers an answer to South Africa’s energy crisis across home, office, outdoor and emergency use—and even comes with a super-bright, adjustable LED light that lasts for up to eight hours.

Win!

Stand a chance to win a Solsave my-powa! worth R500 with The Intrepid Explorer! To enter, send your name and contact details with the subject line SOLSAVE COMPETITION to taryn@insightspubishing.co.za before 30 June 2015. The winner will be contacted via email or telephone, and the prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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In this edition, our regular contributor Braam Malherbe tells us more about fighting the recent fires in Cape Town. As shown in the photograph below, he used his Toyota Fortuner to assist him in this endeavour with the Volunteer Wildlife Services. The Intrepid Explorer and Toyota will be featuring a series of adventures with high-profile personalities in the next few editions, getting off the beaten track with Toyota Fortuners and bringing brilliant stories to you our readers so that you, too, can be inspired to go exploring in your Toyota Fortuner. Watch this space!

And the award goes to Red Earth… When The Intrepid Explorer and Klipdrift were looking for unique trophies to present to the winners of The Golden Awards (see elsewhere in this edition), we managed to track down Eric Tollner from Red Earth. A studio based in Cape Town, it specialises in the design and creation of exclusive trophies and sculptures. Founded on unashamedly old-school values of traditional handcrafted quality, owner and artist Tollner combines his skills and experience as a designing and manufacturing jeweller to produce his Red Earth range. Meticulous attention to detail is paid to each design and during the creation of each award. As a result, every piece is an original—individually designed and crafted to the highest standards for each client. We were extremely happy with The Golden Awards trophies, which were fittingly special for our award-winning intrepid explorers. We definitely urge others to consider Red Earth for their own requirements.

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Off the beaten track with The Intrepid Explorer and Toyota Fortuner

Check out www.redearth.co.za for examples of Tollner’s work.

Whisky and adventure He loves challenges, says ex-cricketer and master distiller of Three Ships Whisky, Andy Watts. So when the opportunity presented itself to go on an extraordinary journey with adventurer Riaan Manser, he didn’t hesitate for a moment but headed for the nearest beach to start honing his kayaking skills. Watts and Manser intend kayaking among the whales off the coast of Madagascar in August. And here’s the big news: One lucky Three Ships consumer and his or her partner will join them in this once-in-a-lifetime experience by entering the competition in-store when purchasing a bottle of Three Ships Whisky. The prize includes flights, accommodation, all meals, kayak equipment and the memorable kayaking experience. Manser is no stranger to Madagascar. In July 2009, he achieved a world-first when he circumnavigated the island in a kayak, alone and unaided. “The journey of 5 000km, which took 11 months, was extremely demanding, both physically and mentally,” he says. “I had to overcome not only extreme loneliness but had to face treacherous conditions such as cyclones, pounding surf, an unrelenting sun, and up to 10 hours of rowing. However, I also had incredible encounters with marine life: from humpback whales breaching metres away to giant leatherback turtles gliding alongside. I even had my kayak rammed by sharks! I really look forward to sharing this adventure with Andy and the winner of the competition. It won’t be as extreme, but certainly an experience that many would like to add to their bucket list.” Manser and Watts are kindred spirits. Both push the boundaries in their individual fields, with groundbreaking results. Manser has achieved many world-firsts as an adventurer while Watts has created many firsts for the South African whisky industry—such as winning the title, “World’s Best Blended Whisky”, for the Three Ships Premium Select 5 Year Old at the 2012 World Whisky Awards. By visiting the Three Ships website and Facebook page, fans can learn more about the expedition as well as Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world and home to a diverse landscape of rainforests and beaches, as well as a rare collection of animal and plant species. To stand a chance of joining Manser and Watts on this memorable trip, fans need to purchase a bottle of Three Ships Whisky and follow the entry requirements found on the label. Entries close on 31 May, and the winner will be announced on 15 June. For more information about the competition, visit www.threeshipswhisky.co.za.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Ph oto es s a y

IN THIS EDITION OF THE INTREPID EXPLORER, WE SHOWCASE SOME OF THE STUNNING WORKS BY AWARD-WINNING WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER, JACQUI HEMPHILL

lens

LIFE THROUGH THE Jacqui Hemphill’s passion for the outdoors started at an early age, having been fortunate to spend her youth enjoying family holidays to the areas surrounding the Kruger National Park. Endless hours were spent discovering the raw essence of nature. She strongly believes such experiences have an intense impact on a child’s subconscious and upbringing, establishing a permanent and profound connection for the rest of one’s life. Later in her life, Hemphill pursued a career in hospitality and has spent many years living and working in the bush. Having travelled extensively through Africa, she has developed a passion for photography and evoking emotion through still imagery. “This power of photography makes it a formidable tool to encourage wildlife conservation and to entice potential tourists to visit and experience Africa, the continent I love so much,” she says. The moments Hemphill has captured bring

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back vivid memories from past experiences and places visited. She says an attractive aspect of pursuing photography is that it has and will continue to take her to the most beautiful and often remote places that our precious world has to offer. Photography is all about patience, spending countless hours waiting for the right moment, the right light and the right situation. Hemphill is constantly on the lookout for beautiful places, and finding beauty in subjects that others may walk past and never notice. “A photographer is an artist whose objective is to capture life in the most beautiful and emotionally stirring way—and my love for photography is just beginning.” Hemphill’s photograph, “Candlelit Dinner on the Banks of the Zambezi River”, won the 2011 Canon SA Photo Competition, and just recently she was the first runner-up in the 2014 Sunday Times Wildlife Photograph of the Year competition for “Praying for Rain” (this page).

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Praying for Rain: A lone giraffe atop the iconic sand dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Gold Dust Forest: Impalas bathed in golden dust â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Mana Pools, Zimbabwe

Milky Way Magic: Vast skies above Jejane Private Game Reserve, Mpumalanga

Play-fighting: Elephants in Chobe National Park, Botswana

Wildlife Textures: Flying ants after the rains â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Limpopo-Lipadi Private Game and Wilderness Reserve, Botswana

Pink Skies at Night: Breathtaking sunset in Chobe National Park, Botswana Contracts: Flamingos in Makgadikgadi Pans, Botswana

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

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5 i THE BIG

ROBBIE STAMMERS GIVES US A GUIDED TOUR OF THE NEW, EXCITING VEHICLES THAT HAVE BEEN SPOTTED ON OUR ROADS RECENTLY

Like the Big 5 in the bush, these vehicles have unique characteristics: some may be featured for their strength and speed, and others for their comfort and size.

n Africa, the Big 5 game animals are the lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros. The term ‘big five game’ was coined by big-game hunters, and refers to the five African animals that are most difficult to hunt on foot.

Value for money – Chery Tiggo

The Tiggo SUV is proving the most popular model in the Chery range, with customers looking for a rugged, reliable yet affordable off-road vehicle. Chery is the leading exporter of vehicles from China and its vehicles are now available in more than 60 countries worldwide. The Tiggo is particularly popular in countries with rough road conditions.

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Subsequently, the term was adopted by safari tour operators for marketing purposes. For our purposes, we have chosen this quarter’s five preferred vehicles to review. Some would be ideal for an intrepid adventure into the bundus, while others would be more suited to the concrete jungle and the school run.

The success of the Chery Tiggo in overseas markets is attributed mainly to its high-quality standards and affordability, while its award-winning ACTECO engine is renowned for its high torque and fuel economy. Meanwhile, here in South Africa the two-wheel-drive Chery Tiggo recently conquered the icy Sani Pass—the rugged mountain pass that is the only link between KwaZulu-Natal and Lesotho. This is usually an environment for four-wheel-drive

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Hit th e r oa d, J a c k vehicles, so one can imagine how surprised the locals were to see a convoy of three Tiggo SUVs arrive at the summit, just before the Lesotho border post and 2 874 metres above sea level. The vehicles were all powered by a 2.0-litre engine, and there were both 5-speed manual and 4-speed automatic derivatives. Convenience features naturally include air-con, audio, electric windows all round, and MP3-USB compatibility. The safety levels are good. While there are only two airbags, on an active safety platform there is ABS braking, electronic bake distribution and—unusually in an SUV in this price range—electronic stability programming to control skidding via the ABS braking system. There is also hill-start assist. Further, on a practical level, there is plenty of leg- and headroom and the seats are leather-covered as standard; there is only one model in the range and that is an upper-spec one, as far as standard equipment goes. I found the Tiggo very spacious and not a bad little runner but, then again, with five people in the vehicle, I imagine you’re not exactly going to be zooming across the country. The Tiggo definitely lacks oomph under the bonnet; however, you just need to look at the price and you can see that as an entry-level SUV, this baby certainly does the job. Price tag: R230 000

Open to adventure – Nissan X-Trail 2015

The new X-trail is more intelligent, efficient and beautiful than ever. Offering the same torque with less bulk, it packs a good punch and is 20% more efficient than its predecessor. A more streamlined design allows it to look at home next to the likes of the Qashqai, with taut headlamps and sharp contours creating a countenance that says ‘I mean business’. New enviable features include Park Assist with assisted steering in Auto Mode to help you glide into even the tightest parking space. It adheres to Nissan’s Safety Shield approach for comprehensive driving protection with the help of electronic brake force distribution, traction control and vehicle dynamic control. Available in both petrol and diesel, the 2015 Nissan X-Trail

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offers an engine that doesn’t get any more reliable and offers you all the power you’ll ever need in an SUV of this class. You’ll also have a choice of 4-wheel-drive and 2-wheeldrive—with both performance options delivering outstanding power and fuel economy. The All-Mode 4x4-i is equally capable off the road as it is on the road. Opt for 4WD Lock mode for off-road challenges or 2WD for the best urban efficiency. Those with larger families are going to love the seven-seat options, which don’t add much to the price. The 2015 X-Trail comes with a six-year/150 000km warranty or a five-year/ 90 000km service plan. It’s great to see Nissan back to its A game with this new X-Trail—it’s going to take South Africa by storm. Price tags 2.0 XE 2.0 XE 7 S 1.6 dCi XE

R327 760 R334 100 R351 100

The ultimate crossover – 2015 Nissan Qashqai The 2015 Nissan Qashqai exceeds on every level by integrating the latest engineering advancements. The result: a car that’s beautiful, powerful and responsive. Inspired by NASA technology and the human anatomy, the ergonomic self-warming seats make for a comfortable drive, while the NissanConnect system has rolled out with a growing list of apps, an in-built GPS system and an adaptable Around View Monitor for enhanced driver experience. This versatile vehicle can show off more than its IQ: six standard airbags, highly responsive braking technology and seatbelt controls offer embassy-level protection. The Qashqai doesn’t skimp on performance, either, with Xtronic CVT transmission translating to better responsiveness and fuel economy. Designed to offer optimal chassis control both on and off the road, it corners with ease, proving to be a smooth ride. Just over a year ago, Nissan launched the second-generation Qashqai, in the process dropping the previous version’s 2.0-litre petrol engine from the range, with which I haven’t been that impressed, compared to the first-generation model. To plug the

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Hit th e r oa d, J a c k gap, the manufacturer has introduced a new 1.6-litre DiG-T 163 engine which, it is claimed, makes big strides in terms of performance and efficiency. One may question the logic of petrol power in a crossover, bearing in mind the perception that diesel is king in this segment, but it seems Nissan has got it right this time and the Qashqai is back near the top of the food chain as far as I’m concerned. Fuel economy is also impressive, sitting at around 7 litres/100km. All the usual bells and whistles are there, too, from an interior point of view. The Qashqai comes with a six-year/150 000km warranty or five-year/90 000km service plan. Watch this Nissan once again become one of the top vehicles of the year. Price tags DiG Turbo Vista R281 900 DiG Turbo Acenta R311 600 dCi Pure Drive Acenta R332 500

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Royalty returns – Range Rover Sport 4.4 SDV8 HSE

What can one honestly say? The Range Rover Sport SDV8 HSE, packing a diesel V8, is practically irreproachable for its admirable all-round capability. You simply cannot help but smile—and that’s even before you get behind the wheel of this beauty. Born from a relentless drive to create a contemporary yet authentic design, its streamlined front elevation and rearward sloping grille give the vehicle immense road presence. With seductive flowing lines and styling, the sophisticated design of the vehicle is conveyed without compromising its character. From its strong body lines to its floating roof and fast-raked windscreen angle, everything about the Range Rover Sport has been designed to another level. The vehicle also has a neat trick up its sleeve in the form of an optional seven-seat layout. The third row of seats unfolds from the boot floor and helps give the upmarket off-roader genuine MPV versatility. This practicality doesn’t come at the expense of comfort and luxury, though, because the Sport’s interior feels every bit as upmarket and cosseting as the flagship Range Rover. In an effort to make the new Range Rover Sport feel more agile, Land Rover has ditched the old car’s hefty steel chassis in favour of a lightweight steel monocoque. In combination with new active anti-roll bar technology and adaptive dampers, it helps provide the latest Range Rover Sport with surprisingly nimble handling. Yet, none of this on-road composure comes at the expense of the Range Rover Sport’s legendary off-road prowess. Not only does the Sport get Land Rover’s Terrain Response, which automatically adjusts the traction control, gearbox and throttle for maximum traction, it also gets standard air suspension. This addition allows you to raise the ride height to clear large obstacles, with the additional benefit of a pillow-soft drive. My only niggle with the Range Rover is that I can never

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Hit th e r oa d, J a c k

The Audi S1 offers all the virtues of a sports car—great performance, direct handling and quattro all-wheel drive. seem to get the seat position right and always end up getting back pain on a longer journey (but perhaps that’s purely my fault and not theirs). Fuel won’t be cheap—but if you can afford the price tag, I don’t think filling up will be a problem for you! Price tag: R1 385 400

Pocket rocket redefined – Audi S1

The introduction of the new Audi S1 represents a definitive milestone in the history of the Audi A1. For the first time, quattro all-wheel drive is offered in the A1, which also represents the first time an all-wheel-drive system is offered in the premium A0 segment. The Audi S1 truly encapsulates the ‘pocket rocket’ ethos and combines scintillating performance with superlative handling. In addition, its unique styling and specific ‘S’ model design details ensure the S1 is instantly recognisable. With performance, handling and design all covered, the new S1 range sets a clear benchmark. Back in the 1980s, the Audi S1 garnered a legendary reputation: It was the car that would see the brand dominate the World Rally Championship in its day. Now the abbreviation is back, but this time as a road-going version. The Audi S1 offers all the virtues of a sports car—great performance, direct handling and quattro all-wheel drive. The high-performance four-cylinder unit develops 170kW and produces up to 370Nm of torque, and will only be available in manual transmission. The 2.0-litre engine accelerates the Audi S1 and the S1 Sportback from 0 to 100km/h in 5.8 and 5.9 seconds respectively, on its way to a top speed of 250km/h. On average, the Audi S1 consumes just 7.0 litres of fuel per

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100km—corresponding to an emissions figure of 162 and 166g/km respectively. Like all Audi S models, the S1 comes with a permanent all-wheel drive on board. At its heart is a hydraulic multi-plate clutch located on the rear axle. Its specifically tuned control software boasts a decidedly dynamic setup. The electronic differential lock, with the fine-tuned wheel-selective torque control, is a function of the Electronic Stabilisation Control. The Audi S1 is instantly recognisable as the flagship model in the A1 family. The xenon plus headlights are all-new, while the LED rear lights come with new, horizontally structured graphics. A host of details—particularly on the front and rear bumper, the side sills and the exhaust system—boast more striking styling. The S1 remains first and foremost an Audi, which means quality and craftsmanship are of an exceptionally high standard. The interior is instantly recognisable: From the model-specific door sill trims to the standard flat-bottom multifunction steering wheel, the S1 translates its sporty exterior into the interior. The instrumentation is typically S, while the pedals and footrest in stainless steel are additional hallmarks. A high level of standard equipment is befitting of the S1’s flagship status, while customers can also continue to customise the interior in numerous ways. The Audi S1 range comes standard with the five-year/ 100 000km Audi Freeway Plan. This is pure driving pleasure at its best! Price tags Audi S1 2.0T quattro manual R442 000 Audi S1 Sportback 2.0T quattro manual R449 500

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

STORE LISTING WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4629 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (021) 982-2000 capegate@capeunionmart.co.za Cavendish Square, Claremont (021) 674-2148 cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Constantia Village (021) 794-0632 constantia@capeunionmart.co.za Gardens Centre (021) 461-9678 gardens@capeunionmart.co.za Mill Square, Stellenbosch (021) 886-4645stellenbosch@ capeunionmart.co.za Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester (023) 347-1484 worcester@capeunionmart.co.za Paarl Mall (021) 863-4138 paarl@capeunionmart.co.za Somerset Mall (021) 852-7120 somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za Tygervalley Shopping Centre (021) 914-1441 tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za V&A Waterfront Quay Four (021) 425-4559 quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari (021) 419-0020 waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za West Coast Mall, Vredenburg (022) 713-4113 weskus@capeunionmart.co.za

Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE (041) 363-1504 greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za

Secunda Mall (017) 634-7921 secunda@capeunionmart.co.za

Hemingways Shopping Centre, East London (043) 726-0908 hemingways@capeunionmart.co.za

NORTH WEST STORES

Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE (041) 368-7442 walmer@capeunionmart.co.za Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za

Brits Mall (012) 250-1909 brits@capeunionmart.co.za Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za

MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (018) 293-1788 mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za KWAZULU-NATAL STORES Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg Boardwalk Inkwazi Shopping Centre, (014) 537-3651 Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za (035) 789-0321 boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Galleria Mall, Durban (031) 904-2318 galleria@capeunionmart.co.za Gateway World, Durban (031) 566-5111 gateway@capeunionmart.co.za La Lucia Mall (031) 562-0523 Lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za

GARDEN ROUTE

Kalahari Mall, Upington (054) 331-3631 kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za

Cradlestone, Krugersdorp (011) 662-1530 cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za

Kathu Village Mall (053) 723-2736 kathu@capeunionmart.co.za

Cresta Shopping Centre (011) 478-1913 cresta@capeunionmart.co.za

(011) 622-8788 FREE STATE STORES egac@capeunionmart.co.za Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein (051) 430-0230 East Rand Mall, Boksburg lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 826-2408 eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein (051) 444-6060 mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za

Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay (044) 695-2486 mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za

Fourways Mall MPUMALANGA STORES (011) 465-9824 Highveld Mall, Emalahleni fourways@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 692-4018 highveld@capeunionmart.co.za Greenstone Shopping Centre (011) 609-0002 iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;langa Mall, Nelspruit greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 742-2281

Middelburg Mall EASTERN CAPE STORES (013) 244-1040 Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 886-5262 baywest@capeunionmart.co.za Riverside Mall, Nelspruit (013) 757-0338 Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za (042) 293-0005 fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

Menlyn Park (012) 368-1015 menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za Nicolway Bryanston (011) 706-7573 nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za Northgate Shopping Centre (011) 794-1022 northgate@capeunionmart.co.za

The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene GAUTENG STORES (011) 436-1300 Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria theglen@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 991-3171 atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall, Pretoria The Pavilion, Westville (012) 807-0642 Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria (031) 265-1666 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 460-5511 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark Watercrest Mall, Durban (016) 981-5186 Mall@Carnival, Brakpan (031) 763-1489 vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 915-0470 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 549-4203 Centurion Mall wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 663-4111 NORTHERN CAPE STORES centurion@capeunionmart.co.za Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria Kimberley (012) 997-6960 Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort (053) 832-3846 woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 675-0036 diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za

ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall@Reds, Centurion (012) 656-0182 redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za

Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (033) 342-0152 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za

Knysna Mall (044) 382-4653 knysna@capeunionmart.co.za

The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay (044) 533-4030 marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za

Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 548-9811 kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za

OR Tambo International Airport (011) 390-3245 LIMPOPO STORES ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za Lephalale Mall (014) 763-1278 Rosebank Mall lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 442-1959 rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za Mall of the North, Polokwane (015) 265-1067 Sandton City mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 884-9771 sandton@capeunionmart.co.za

Eastgate Adventure Centre

Garden Route Mall, George (044) 887-0048 gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za

Killarney Mall (011) 646-7745 killarney@capeunionmart.co.za

Forest Hill City, Centurion (012) 668-1030 foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za

Heidelberg Mall (016) 341-2031 heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za Hyde Park Corner (011) 325-5038 hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za Irene Village Mall (012) 662-1133 irene@capeunionmart.co.za

BOTSWANA STORES Francistown, Pick n Pay Centre 00267-241-0398 francistown@capeunionmart.co.za Gamecity Lifestyle Shopping Centre Gaborone 00267-391-0948 gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone 00267-370-0040 riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za

NAMIBIA STORES Maerua Mall, Windhoek 00264-612-20424 windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall of Namibia thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za 00264-612-53161

OUTLET STORES Access Park, Cape Town (021) 674-6398 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za Woodmead Value Mart, Johannesburg (011) 656-0750 woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za

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SPIN i

t’s a well-known fact that small women love to shop. Well, perhaps it’s not all that well known. Actually, it may not truly be a fact at all. Maybe I’m projecting, and this applies particularly to me and my Lilliputian kin. The small folk in my family love to shop and I’m no exception. I’m not being size-ist; I’m certain many average-size and even taller women (and some men, of any particular size) enjoy a good financial exchange for goods, but my experience lies mainly with the downsized crew I call family. Recently, while travelling in London, the shopping mecca of Europe, being of the smaller variety and having a large appetite for certain artefacts such as shoes and coats, the Underground transport system seemed to be mostly unfair. I was in London to do a course, but found myself wandering the swarming sidewalks in the city centre, staring at SALE signs in glittering shop windows, drooling at progressive fashion and scrambling for my spluttering credit card. My mother and I arrived already heavily laden, since she was staying on for six months, and we found ourselves completely incapable of lifting the bags up the seemingly endless array of stairs at each Underground station we navigated to reach our destination. This should’ve been enough of a warning sign to desist shopping urges on the trip. But, alas, a very kind ex-pat helped us carry both massive bags up several flights of stairs, ensuring the message never truly hit home. We are a stubborn bunch. The city is mesmerising. London is

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Th e la s t la ugh

IN A RETAIL CASEY B. DOLAN ENJOYS THE SIGHTS AND SOUNDS—AND SHOPS—OF LONDON

alive in every way; no matter the time of day or night, people crowd the streets to take part in life, in the hub that makes London such an extraordinary, vibrant city. The array of restaurants was mindboggling, each serving up exceptional menus of every sort of cuisine. I believe one could live there for 20 years and still find new magical and exciting spots to frequent. (Though, you may need the Heimlich when faced with a bill of a few hundred rand for a plate of dinner and a drink. A small bottled water costs around R40!) At some point, I decided walking was a more prudent option than the Underground (due to ticket prices and awkward packages), and delegated the task of navigating the streets to my mother and her ever reliable Google Maps app on her iPad. I nearly wiped her off the face of the planet. Technically, it would’ve been the careering taxi driven by a short-tempered cab driver (are there any other kind?) but, considering her face was planted on the iPad and not on the hurtling traffic, I’m not sure he would’ve felt much guilt about it. I saved her from the jaws of calamity by swinging her out of the road across the sidewalk as the car brushed by her. Not elegant, but effective. Something she was none too grateful about, as it would’ve meant the rather untimely end of our shopping expedition. But walking had its merits. We got to take in all the gorgeous heritage sights only seen in films: Big Ben, London Bridge, Buckingham Palace, the London Eye and many others that were as awe-inspiring

and dazzling as I imagined. Though, predictably, the most fun was had on Oxford Street in the throngs of city dwellers and sightseers… and shopping. Even my mom was concerned that among many gifts and various smaller items, perhaps three coats and two pairs of boots were sufficient. So I found myself lugging a gargantuan, bold red suitcase up and down stairs through various Underground stations, cursing my featherweight frame versus my bodybuilder shopping appetite. By the time I reached the airport, I had a strained back; even when I requested a little help lugging my bag on and off trains, I was met with snarling faces and ‘serves you right’ glares. I was sweating and exhausted. The ground staff at the airline counter stared at me blankly, stating in monotone that my luggage was overweight. I resisted the urge to say “duh!”, realising it would probably not be particularly useful under the circumstances. Instead, I pointed out in the politest manner I could muster that, as a petite passenger, I was decidedly underweight and perhaps that little balance allowed me a kilo or two extra luggage. I ended my suggestion with a broad smile, and lo and behold the shopping gods smiled down on me and the ground staff acquiesced. So was all the panic and exhaustion, flattened credit card and blistered feet worth it? You betcha. My only regret is not getting those knee-high leather boots. (I could’ve strapped them on top of my head, come to think of it…) Next time, London, next time!

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

THE LAST WORD We have a session with award-winning

What are the top destinations on your ‘bucket list’ to which you’d like to travel? I really want to see more of Africa and Asia—no specific countries, but to live in and explore the different cultures collectively. I think if you live in a Western society, there’s a pull to go to the West, but there’s so much more of the world still to see outside of that. Which places have you already ticked off? I’ve seen a large part of Europe, North America and the Caribbean. As for my bucket list, I’ve ticked off places like Cuba, The Azores, India, Croatia, Malta, Egypt, Argentina, Yemen, Fernando de Noronha (Brazil) and all of southern Africa. And I’ve always wanted to see New York; I like the spirit and work ethic of the place. My dad always wanted to tour the west coast of America, and I recently got to do this with him. It was certainly a highlight of my life to experience that with him. My bucket list is still pretty extensive, though. What is the weirdest food or drink you have ever tried? The more I travel, the more I’ve learnt there’s no such thing as weird food or drink. Yes, it may be weird to our Western palates, but in and of itself, it isn’t weird. As such, I’ll eat the most interesting delicacies everywhere I go. For instance, in the Seychelles, bat curry is considered a delicacy and is eaten commonly. I tried it because it’s what the locals eat—and it was glorious. Are you an adrenaline junkie? Ever tried shark-cage diving, bungee jumping, parachuting, abseiling? I’m a professional musician—I’m really not short on adrenaline. I do love the great outdoors, though, and surfing, skating, 4x4ing and horse riding really make me happy. To the pursuits you’ve mentioned,

The Intrepid Explorer issue 10

yes, I have done all those things bar shark-cage diving, to which I’m strongly opposed. I actually have my skydiving licence. However, for me, getting onto a massive stage in front of thousands of people is by far the most terrifying and gratifying experience of the lot. Braai or sushi? Hmm. Sushi braai? What is the most memorable experience you have had with wildlife? I once drove a 4x4 full of friends into the middle of a herd of elephants while visiting a private game farm in southern Africa! It was a night drive and I turned the corner and nearly drove straight into a large bull standing in the road. I stopped the vehicle and turned off the car so we could all sit and take it in, but the bull was already rather startled and a little aggravated, so it was a bit unnerving. Little did we know the rest of herd were actually all around us in the thick bush! After just a few minutes, the vehicle was completely surrounded, with no way out. We had no option but to sit in quiet as the herd all rustled around the vehicle for what seemed like an eternity. It was scary being in the driver’s seat, and it took a lot to keep my cool, but we all came away absolutely overwhelmed and I’ll never forget it. Love elephants! If you were stuck on a desert island, would you know how to make a fire without matches, and how to catch dinner? I would know how, yes. I worked on boats for many, many years. I know my way around knots and catching fish. If it were up to you, what should be done to the people running the rhino horn trade? Arrest them and punish them with severe jail time. As much as it sickens me, I don’t

think a modern society has a place for the death penalty. Beer or wine? Wine. Red. Camping or luxury lodge? I really believe in trying and enjoying everything. I love camping, but I appreciate outdoor comforts, too. If I really had to choose, it would be camping for sure. You are a co-founder of Greenpop. What initiated this incredible foundation? I’m one of those people who think our purpose as humanity is to serve society and leave behind a better world. Greenpop, our tree-planting organisation, was our vehicle. We wanted to make caring for nature cool—and when shit is cool, young people care about it. The tree-planting and environmental education is the service we offer but, really, we’re trying to improve society. Our formation was really predicated on frustrations with the state of the world, and then acting on that. What initiatives does Greenpop have in the pipeline? We have Trees For Fees Zambia 2015 coming up, a festival of action where we plant thousands of trees in that country with volunteers from all over the world. Zambia has one of the highest deforestation rates in the world. In April, we had our annual Cool As Folk parties in Joburg and Cape Town. These are music-focused events where we show that partying hard and living sustainably can co-exist. This year, I headlined the event along with Toya Delazy. We also have the ReforesFest series in May and a host of other activations throughout the year. It’s a treevolution. And everyone’s invited.

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modern-folk musician, Jeremy Loops

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