Intrepid Explorer 3rd Edition 2018 - Issue 23

Explorer Intrepid

‘Here I am, where I belong’ — Karen Blixen, author of Out of Africa

Edition Three 2018 | R35.50

K E N YA C A L L I N G M AG I C AT T H E E Q UAT O R

EDITION THREE 2018

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On the cover

Luxe venture

HAKUNA MATATA From laid-back safaris to more adventurous pursuits, Kenya proffers activities for a magical African escape

18 Bushwhackers COUNTRY CHARM

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INTO THE OKAVANGO Known as one of Africa’s most exclusive safari destinations, Botswana’s Okavango Delta offers more than just a luxe escape

In focus MOTHERED IN NATURE Tucked away in Zambia’s Kafue National Park, Game Rangers International operates a facility for orphaned elephants

Escape to the countryside where a treasure trove of natural assets and delightful lodgings await Intrepid

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CONTENTS

48 hours OLD TOWN CHARMS Despite it’s size, the little fishing village of Vilankulo is a pleasant retreat for beach-loving travellers

Globetrotter NORTHERN EXPOSURE Morocco’s desert sand, spicy cusine and ceramic artistry is nothing short of an African fairy-tale

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08 ED’S LETTER 10 HOT SPOT 12 FINAL DESTINATIONS 16 TRAVEL KIT 54 GEAR 60 SNAPSHOT

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Travel fare Bucket list

WINE COUNTRY

A TASTE OF INDIA

Head off South Africa’s celebrated R62 for a weekend wine route less travelled

The perfect entry point into the Madhya Pradesh area of central India, its capital Bophal is a lesser-known but fascinating place to visit

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73 TOP TIPS 75 TRAVEL HACKER 77 THE LIST 80 COMPETITION 82 BON VOYAGE EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 5

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FOR SA’S WIDEST OF TOP SPORTS

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GEAR

41 BRANCHES NATIONWIDE, STOCKING BIG-BRANDED EQUIPMENT, FOOTWEAR AND APPAREL

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ED’S LETTER

Catching a flight from Nanyuki to the Maasai Mara in one of the smallest airplanes ever!

Read more about Kenya and its marvels on page 20.

When it comes to travelling through Africa, I often find that most people have quite a negative impression of the continent. Aside from corruption, disease, crime and poverty, the most common association is the bucketlist safari.

Yet, there is so much more to Africa than that.

With 54 countries, thousands of cultures, an estimated 2 000 languages and dialects, and an immensely diverse topography, the continent of Africa delivers an inversion of everyday life for many travellers.

Travel itself presents the opportunity of a suspended reality, whether for a few days or a few weeks. But, here in Africa, it also offers a nucleus that is so removed that when we return to reality, our view of our lives and the

world around us becomes perspicuous. And, thus, in recent times, more people are searching for travel experiences that offer a sense of purpose: Better health, giving back, learning more. However, these same travellers do not want these experiences at the expense of their comfort or self-gratification.

Africa is where they find that balance. Where they can learn about a tribe while contributing to their sustenance, where they can enjoy a game drive while admonishing poaching, where they can take part in a different culture while collecting souvenirs.

It is also a place of great promise. With rapidly growing infrastructures and ever-evolving creative and entrepreneurial classes, the continent is a world of exploration waiting to be discovered. This issue is a celebration of all that, and more.

@zainabslemang

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INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION THREE 2018

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HOT SPOT

Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Courtesy image

CHANGE MAKER

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Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Courtesy image

Celebrating the San culture of the past and present, the !Khwa ttu San Culture and Education Centre in South Africa’s west coast harbour town of Yzerfontein is committed to boosting the social and economic well-being of the SA San communities. This past September, the centre was honoured with the Water Sustainability Award at the Sanlam Top Destinations Awards 2018. The award is a new category created in conjunction with Water 4 Cape Town and Cape Town Tourism, and recognises destinations that acknowledge and address sustainable tourism. !Khwa ttu achieved this distinction through its businesswide water-conscious efforts that include incorporating water-saving methods from check-in, housekeeping and external entertainment facilities to ongoing training, management and check out. khwattu.org

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F I N A L D E S T I N AT I O N S

FALKE FULL MOON HIKE AT DELVERA 24 OCTOBER Dirtopia Trail Centre, Delvera Farm, Cnr R44 and Muldersvlei Road, Stellenbosch

WINE ON THE RIVER 26 – 28 OCTOBER Goudmyn Farm, R317, between Robertson and Bonnievale Boat cruises, artisanal fare, local produce and plenty of wine are just some of the offerings available at this year’s Wine on the River festival.

Now in its 13th year, the Wine on the River festival, in partnership with Nedbank, will bring the shores of the Breede River alive for one weekend with drink from 30 local wineries and entertainment and activities for the entire family.

Free for under-18s, R150-R350 for daily and weekend passes, wineonriver.com

Experience a spectacular sunset across Table Mountain with stunning views of the winelands while the full moon rises over Klapmutskop. The Falke Full Moon Hike promises a meandering 9.75-km route through the vineyards, starting at Dirtopia Trail Centre located within Delvera Farm.

The route continues through the Greater Simonsburg Conservancy and Yellowwood Forest, making for breathtaking backdrops and photo opportunities on the way to the top.

R100 pp, R50 for children; dirtopia.co.za

BARRYDALE IN BLOOM 13 – 14 OCTOBER Barrydale, Klein Karoo The small towns of Barrydale and Smitsville in the heart of the Klein Karoo come alive every spring with the most magnificent flora and fauna displays. This event showcases the natural beauty and charming character of the towns with more than 20 gardens on display. Visitors can expect everything from vibrant floral arrangements and quirky vegetable patches to lush orchards and expansive farm estates as well as a range of home-made delights and arts and crafts.

Free, barrydaleinbloom.blogspot.com 12 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION THREE 2018

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INTERLUDE UNTIL 26 OCTOBER THK Photography Gallery, 52 Waterkant Street, Cape Town CAPE TOWN INTERNATIONAL KITE FESTIVAL 2018 27 – 28 OCTOBER Zandvlei Nature Reserve, Muizenberg, Cape Town Enjoy a spectacle of colour and giant inflatables in the sky at the annual Cape Town International Kite Festival.

As the biggest festival of its kind in Africa, the event invites the public to fly their kites in support of Mental Health Awareness Month in October. All proceeds from the various activities — professional kiting (including stunt kites and kite fighting), kite-making workshops, live music and dance, a tea garden, food trucks and fairground rides for the little ones — go towards the Cape Mental Health organisation.

Free, capementalhealth.co.za/kite/

MALKOP SUMMER ROCK FESTIVAL 2018 23 – 24 NOVEMBER Malkoppan Guest Farm, R365, Lambert’s Bay, Western Cape

A colourful anecdote of subjects and places across the African continent is told through the lens of photographer Francois Visser in his opening exhibition, Interlude. The documentary display melds together portraits of acrobats, alluvial miners, pikipiki riders, teenagers and landscapes, immersing the viewer in a vivid, exploratory journey.

Free, thkphotography.com

Words: Farah Khalfe; Photography: Bibliodam, Fotoware, Wikimedia Commons, Courtesy images

F I N A L D E ST I N AT I O N S

TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA

AFRICA BECKONS

Rock music, craft beer and surfing collide at the Malkop Summer Rock Festival. After a two-year hiatus, the festival returns, bringing an influx of rock fundis and adventureseekers to the seaside town of Lambert’s Bay. There will be plenty of activities on offer, including a big surfing competition in association with Kumba Iron Ore, Reef and Billabong while West Coast Breweries will launch their locally crafted beer.

Price TBA, facebook.com/malkopsummerrock

reservations@wildfrontiers.com www.wildfrontiers.com

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T R AV E L K I T

Use your phone to access more content and buy products directly wherever you see this symobl. Turn to page 8 to get the app.

LAND ROVER EXPLORE SMARTPHONE For the die-hard adventurers, the new Land Rover Explore outdoor phone guarantees a tough and durable smartphone that will stand the test against any expedition. Key features include an SOS flashlight, ViewRanger mapping app and a large 4 000 mAh built-in battery. landroverexplore, R13 500, landroverexplore.com

LEATHERMAN TREAD WEARABLE MULTITOOL Functionality and style is what defines the Leatherman Tread Wearable Multitool, which holds multiple tools in each of its 17 -4 stainless steel bracelet links. Adjustable to accommodate any wrist size and fully customisable, this wearable puts usable tools such as Allen wrenches, screwdrivers and box wrenches close at hand. outdoorwarehouseza, R3 245, outdoorwarehouse.co.za

SAMSUNG GEAR ICONX EARBUDS

POLAR OH1 OPTICAL HEART RATE SENSOR Instead of a typical chest strap, the Polar OH1 offers a more convenient method to measure the rate of a heartbeat. The sensor pairs with an app on a smartphone, and has up to 12 hours of activity and 200 hours of memory for tracking all the essential body vitals. polarglobal, R1 299.90, sportsmanswarehouse.co.za

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There’s nothing like a solid pair of earphones, especially when blasting inspirational tunes is the motivation needed to conquer a giant hill.

The Samsung Gear IconX earbuds offers amazing sound quality, bluetooth and a micro-USB port — features that place these 3.4 GB earphones at the top of the game.

R2 540,

samsungsa, loot.co.za

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T R AV E L K I T

CARABAO ENERGY DRINK

Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt & Walter Hayward; Photography: Courtesy images

Packed with a punch, the latest energy revitaliser contains minimal sugar (less than 14.9g per can, to be exact) yet maximum energy. Available in Green Apple, Green Apple Sugar Free, Mandrin Orange and Original, the drink was developed in Thailand and is named after the Southeast Asian water buffalo, which symbolises strength, stamina and determination — the same spirit the Carabao Energy Drink aims to yield in its drinkers.

Price TBD,

carabao_za, facebook.com/CarabaoSA

BLACKS ‘DO’ CARAVAN

BY FIKILE HLATSHWAYO After travelling to more than 70 South African game reserves and parks, Fikile Hlatshwayo delves into the caravan culture from a black person’s perspective.

This revolutionary book aims to unite all South Africans through travel by breaking down the stereotypes of camping. It tells the tale of Fikile and his family, making meals on a fire and enjoying one another’s company in the great outdoors and without the aid of technology.

R179,

@Fikile_Hla, loot.co.za

AYAMA VERMENTINO WINE Sip on Italian-inspired Vermentino Wine, the first of its kind to be grown and harvested in South Africa. Vermentino is riddled with delicious green almond and pear flavours as well as white peach, lime and pink grapefruit. There are hints of minerality and a touch of saltiness, which adds to the combination of summer tastes on the palate.

R220 for 750 ml, ayamaslent1, ayama.co.za

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BUSHWHACKERS

Country charm Escape to the countryside where a treasure trove of natural assets and delightful lodgings await

South Africa’s Garden Route is famed for its plethora of fauna and flora, myriad adventurous pursuits and smorgasbord of culinary offerings.

Yet, there is no other destination that encompasses the best outdoor experience as does the De Hoop Collection in the Overberg.

Borne of a private-public partnership — the first of its kind in South Africa’s hospitality industry — and a three-hour drive from Cape Town, the 36 000-hectare De Hoop Nature Reserve is a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) World Heritage Site that is open to holidaygoers and day visitors as well as provides a venue for weddings and conferences.

ACTIVITIES Whether a relaxed weekend getaway or an adventuresome day trip is on the cards, there is no shortage of pastimes within the reserve. While guests are welcome to explore and take hikes on their own, the guided bird and interpretive marine walks are highly recommended. The latter not only offers an interesting look at marine life forms at the De Hoop Marine Protected Area but is also a great way to experience the Southern Right whales that occupy the bay between June and December while the former is popular with birdwatchers as is the Cape vulture experience.

Departing from the Opstal area at De Hoop, guests will be treated to a scenic drive to Potberg. From here, a

40-minute guided walk leads to the vulture-viewing deck where the sight of the Western Cape’s last surviving colony of these magnificent birds will delight kids (over 12) and adults alike.

Or head for the water on a pontoon to enjoy the birdlife, game and otter sightings of the Ramsar-listed Vlei.

Morning cruises include tea, coffee, croissants and pastries while guests on the afternoon cruise can expect house wines, local beers, juices and snacks.

The night sky at De Hoop is uninterrupted by the smog of the city — and arguably the best way to view the constellations. A very knowledgable guide will teach guests about the various star signs and other astrological facts in an intimate one-hour session.

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Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Jean Tresfon, courtesy images

Clockwise from top left: The fig tree after which the former restaurant was named; Spotting whales at the De Hoop Marine Protected Area; The Silo wine cellar at The Shed.

ACCOMMODATION While the reserve offers plenty to keep visitors busy, one of its most endearing aspects is that of its lodgings. No matter the budget, its romantic cottages, all-inclusive suites, houses, rondawels and campsite are amenable to groups of all sizes. The campsite allows for both tents and motorhomes while guests who prefer a more comfortable space to rest their head can opt for a two-sleeper rondawel, which shares its restrooms with the rest of the campsite.

For honeymooners, the Opstal, Dassie, Otter and Figtree Suites as well as the Cloete Cottage all offer king-sized beds with large en-suite bathrooms while families and large groups can ensure a weekend of

revelry and braai by staying at one of the Opstal Houses, an Equipped or Vlei Cottage, or a unit in the De Hoop Village.

For those wanting something different — away from the hub-bub of the mainland — the Melkkamer Manor House, Foremans Cottage and Vlei Cottage is situated a short boat ride away, across the vlei.

FOOD AND DRINK Self-catering is a huge advantage of vacationing at De Hoop, however, many who regularly visit the destination hold its restaurant, the Fig Tree, in high

regard. This past winter, the restaurant has been transformed — and relocated — into The Shed.

With a stylish dining area that overlooks the vlei and is flanked by a veranda, The Shed now also sports owner William Stephens’ wine cellar: The Silo Cellar, a round, intimate space that showcases more than 3 000 wines. Guests are invited to peruse the cellar before reclining in front of the cosy fireplace to enjoy a drink of their choice with a dish from the breakfast or lunch à la carte menus, or the set dinner menu.  +27 28 542 1253, dehoopcollection.com EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 19

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ON THE COVER

The longest river in Kenya, the Tana offers travellers adventurous activities such as river rafting.

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Hakuna matata From laid-back safaris to more adventurous pursuits, Kenya proffers activities for a magical African escape

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ON THE COVER

Oh no, oh no, oh no!

My heart leaps into my throat as I feel my body flip into the air and see the water rushing up to meet me. I grip the ropes and squeeze my hands and face into the rubber of the raft as I slide over the edge, water pounding my body and helmeted head. We are being tossed up and down, and I can hear my fellow travellers shouting as one by one they are hurled into the cold waters of the Tana River, the longest in Kenya at 1 000 kilometres.

Then it happens. The raft overturns — twice! — and eventually drifts to a more placid area. I am still holding on. I let out a deep breath and thank the powers-that-be for the life jacket tightly strapped across my body.

I can’t swim, you see, but venturing to Kenya has brought out the daredevil in me. Before deciding to commit myself to river rafting, I had also, to a lesser extent, confronted my fear of heights by ziplining the breadth of the Tana. As they say in the native language of Swahili, hakuna matata, which roughly translates to ‘no worries’. Here,

in this magical country of experiences, I definitely had no worries.

Two hours later, we clamber up the banks to dry ourselves in front of the embers of a fire. The staff at Savage Wilderness Safaris, a company that specialises in adventure activities, have prepared a mouth-watering braai for us and we tuck in voraciously.

The East-African country of Kenya is situated right on the equator, wedged in the centre of Tanzania, Uganda, South Sudan, Ethiopia, Somalia and the Indian Ocean. Due to its geographical location and its diverse topography, the country experiences a variety of climates that include a humid coastline, temperate savannah grasslands, crisp forest areas, and non-arid weather around Lake Victoria, the world’s largest tropical freshwater lake that occupies Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya. Over the next few days, we would experience almost all of them.

After surviving the rapids of the Tana, we drive towards the Kenya National Reserve where our living quarters are housed in a timbered tree hotel called Serena Mountain Lodge. Although each of its 41 rooms has its own open-air viewing deck that overlooks a watering hole and salt lick, there’s not much time to spot game between enjoying a hot shower, scarfing down a yummy meal, catching some z’s and heading out for our next escapade.

Although less thrilling than speeding down a river in a raft, our activities for the day start off with a visit to Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary located in Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Nanyuki. As we approach, we see electric fences spanning the perimeter of the sanctuary. Not even the guides are allowed to interact with the rescued chimps, who hail from the Congo, Burundi, Rwanda and South Africa. Some of them even come from as far as Iraq and Dubai.

Through the fence, we meet two eight-yearold chimps rescued by renowned primatologist and anthropologist Jane Goodall. Like the rest of the chimps who call the sanctuary home, they cannot be released back into the wild. The guide throws peanuts through the wire fencing for the chimps to snack on but they are not pleased when he runs out and, as we leave, his face is greeted by a fistful of dirt for not obliging to their snacking requirements.

On the way to our next port of call, the Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club, we stop to say hello and feed Baraka, a 22-year-old blind black rhino, and view other game. Zebra, rhino and elephants pass by the vehicle so closely that I could run my hand across their skin if I reach out.

At Fairmont, a four-star estate situated on 40 landscaped hectares, guests can partake in everything from golfing and horseback riding to indulgent spa treatments. Sadly, we are not here for any of those.

Instead, ours is a more cultural undertaking: An equatorial ceremony.

The equator runs almost directly through the median of Kenya and the club is situated smack-bang in the middle. It is the ideal place to experience the rotating spheres caused by the intersection of the equator. The ceremony itself involves pouring water into two bowls on either side of the imaginary line of the equator, and I watch in amazement as the water rotates

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Clockwise from left: Braving the rapids on the Tana River; Two lion cubs taking a well-deserved break after a chase for dinner; The Maasai people of Kenya live a nomadic, pastoral lifestyle.

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This page, from top: Engaging in an equatorial ceremony; Sunrise over the Mara. Opposite page, from top: The author enjoys the rising sun on a game drive in the Mara; The jetty at Shimoni; Fresh melon, oranges, banana and coconut on Wasini Island is served as a dessert.

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ON THE COVER

in completely opposite directions in each bowl. In order to receive our participation certificates, we need to each take part in a ritual chant and dance. It’s loads of fun and evokes screams of laughter from the group.

We rise early the next morning to catch a flight to the Maasai Mara National Reserve. Our destination: The ecofriendly Karen Blixen Camp. The camp is named for the Danish baroness and author, and utilises solar panels and a green sewage system to ensure visitors can enjoy all the creature comforts of home in a sustainable way.

While I wish I had more time to explore the tented camp with its open-plan lounge area located on the banks of the Mara River, there’s no time to linger. Our group is hoping to catch the annual wildebeest migration from the Serengeti, an occurrence that many travel from far and wide to witness.

We pass other visitors hoping for the same but are too late.

On the way back to camp, however, I am cheered up by an incredible scene:

A warthog’s narrow escape from being dinner. At first glance, there’s no hope for the little Pumbaa as he is caught between two lion cubs.

But, surprisingly, the lions are too slow and he manages to run the other way, towards a thicket of trees. Phew!

No trip to the Mara is complete without a visit to a Maasai tribe to learn more about their culture, traditions and lifestyle.

It is estimated that the population of this Nilotic ethnic group, who reside in Kenya and Tanzania, currently numbers 841 622 and 800 000, respectively.

The Maasai live a nomadic way of life with age-old customs and — after performing the adumu, or jumping dance — invite us inside their homes: Clay huts with no windows and the barest of essentials such as kikois (rectangles of woven cloth) and earthenware pots. While the tribe has maintained Maa, their language, and traditional pastoral lifestyle of herding cattle and hunting wild animals, many Maasai in Kenya have also started getting an education and participating in the monetary economy. Those who have gone to school and learnt to speak Swahili often gain employment as guides, security and farmers.

Although we are sad to leave the plains of the Mara, we are back on a plane the next day, headed to Shimoni, a fishing village located close to the resort town of Diani. The air is stifling — a far cry from the cool mountain air in Nanyuki and not as dry as the Mara — and I immediately start peeling off layers of clothing.

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ON THE COVER

Just in time too. We are shuttled onto a boat headed for Wasini Island, which lies three kilometres off the coast of Shimoni. The island is approximately seven kilometres long and three kilometres wide, and is untouched by many modern influences: There are no cars, carts or bicycles; everyone here walks along the paths or via the beaches.

As there is no place for our boat to dock, we disembark in smaller groups onto dhows. In a small alcove, we are able to climb out and splash our way through shallow water to shore, where we feast on fresh fish and crab — cracked open by hand — and fruit before heading back to the boat.

I’m elated to be returning to the mainland but it seems that our captain is going in the wrong direction. The water is rough and my stomach churns, reminding me of our time on the Tana.

A guide sees my sickly pallor and offers me a life jacket. It is small and pink with tiny puppies on it

FLIGHT PLAN Kenya Airways offers flights from Cape Town via Livingstone, Zambia, to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. Interior flights to the Maasai Mara are offered

by SafariLink.

From top: Freshly caught crab is steamed and eaten straight from the shell on Wasini Island; Approaching Wasini Island on boat; Drinks are garnished with fruit and flowers.

Words and photography: Zainab SvR

— a kid’s jacket. I quickly strap it on as we come to a standstill, the boat gently rocking back and forth on the waves.

The rest of the people on the boat all disembark into the water and I patiently wait for my guide. We are going snorkelling but as I can’t swim, he will pull me through the water on a life preserve. I’m slightly embarrassed as I see young kids jumping bravely off the boat and into the ocean but my companions urge me to take my time.

I pull my mask over my face and climb over the side of the boat. I’m in! Clutching the life preserve, I kick out my feet and stick my head beneath the water above the coral reefs. It’s absolutely beautiful and, with the help of my guide, I submerge myself even more. Fish surround me as I explore the wonderland beneath the waves.

When I come up for air, my fellow travellers are waiting.

We all smile as we slowly drift back to the boat. Hakuna matata for another day in magical Kenya. 

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IN FOCUS

Mothered in nature Tucked away in Zambia’s Kafue National Park, Game Rangers International operates a release facility for orphaned elephants South Luangwa National Park, Zambia, 2007: A one-and-a-half-year-old elephant is left alone and helpless as her mother is shot dead by poachers. The orphan calf is taken to what is now the Game Rangers International Kafue National Park Release Facility. Healthy but traumatised, Chamilandu — as she was named — struggles to come to terms with the loss of both her mother and extended family. Beneath the cover of the dark, nightmares have her screaming aloud in her sleep.

In the intervening years, Chamilandu has grown into the matriarch of the orphan herd at Kafue — mothering and comforting the younger orphan calves as one tragedy or another brings them to the orphanage. She has recently started to demonstrate her desire to live independently in the bush, going on longer and longer forays alone, away from the release centre. She has been seen interacting and mating with a wild bull in the park, a positive sign that she is ready to create new family bonds and is preparing herself for a life in the wild — the ultimate goal of those who rescued her all those years ago.

Orphaned elephants forming new family bonds.

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‘home’. Home is an enclosure of about 10 hectares, located on the bend of a river and fenced in to make it predator proof. Once the elephants get close to the boma, they pick up speed and are soon clamouring at the gate to be let in for their bottles and piles of pellets that form their lunchtime feed.

Elephants in Africa are under serious threat, primarily due to large-scale poaching for ivory and also as a result of conflicts arising from elephant-human interactions.

It is estimated that 25 000 elephants are killed in Africa each year

From top: Feeding time at the orphanage; A wild elephant herd on the banks of Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, close to the release facility.

October 2017: Our first sighting of Chamilandu is on a game drive in Kafue National Park, Zambia’s oldest and largest park and one of Africa’s wildest.

We are on our way to the Release Centre to see the orphan herd come in for their lunch break after a morning in the bush. The group are close to the road, the keepers tucked out of sight to allow the small herd to graze freely but still under their protective surveillance.

Chamilandu, wearing a radio collar in preparation for her anticipated ‘move’, is in a playful mood. Getting closer and closer to us, she shakes her head from side to side in a slightly comical fashion, as we slowly reverse the car. Eventually slipping past the herd, we go ahead to await the group’s arrival.

At the Release Centre, we are shown the ‘kitchen’ where bottles are filled with the correct milk ‘recipe’ for each youngster before we are escorted to the main elephant boma from where we are able to see the orphans ambling 30

— this works out to approximately one elephant killed every 15 minutes!

Having previously visited the older orphans in Kafue, I’m keen to visit The Elephant Orphanage Project’s (EOP) Lilayi Elephant Nursery, situated on a 650-hectare game farm on the outskirts of Zambia’s capital city, Lusaka.

Under the age of three, young elephants are very vulnerable and dependent. Most will not survive without their mother’s care and her nutrient-rich milk. The first port of call for any orphan rescued anywhere within Zambia is the Lilayi Elephant Nursery and it is here that these fragile babies are looked after 24 hours a day — a milk-dependent orphan requires a bottle of its special formula every three hours!

Trained keepers care for and watch over their charges constantly, taking them on daily walks through the bush, feeding them and staying close at hand to provide reassurance when the babies are in the stables at night.

These keepers play a vital role in the emotional and social recovery of the young elephants and become the ‘mother figures’ the babies desperately need. Ellies are tactile and highly sociable, and the keepers become the orphans’ new family, maintaining physical contact with the babies, speaking to them and showing them the same affection their wild elephant family would. As the orphans gain more confidence, human contact is gradually reduced and they are encouraged to turn to the other elephants for comfort instead of the keepers.

This is an important part of their rehabilitation.

The orphans need to be watched over at all times too: They need to be covered with blankets when cold, rainwear when wet and natural sunscreen (like a mud bath) when out in the sun for the first few months of their lives. Baby elephants are difficult feeders and their minders need endless patience to encourage them to drink sufficient milk for growth. Like humans, baby elephants also need stimulation and toys, such as logs and branches, so distractions and entertainment have to be built into their daily routine. An elephant will only thrive if happy.

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IN FOCUS

Words: Sarah Kingdom; Photography: GRI – Elephant Orphanage, Konkamoya Lodge

As soon as calves can be weaned from milk (at around three years old), they are moved from Lusaka to the Release Facility in Kafue National Park, situated 350 km away, where they join older orphaned elephants.

Here, they learn to live more independently and spend much of their time wandering freely through the bush.

The Kafue Release Facility is adjacent to the ancient Ngoma Teak Forest, where there is a 1 000-strong local elephant population, maximising chances for the orphans to integrate with other elephants and gradually move back into the wild.

12 June 2018: The newest rescue baby joins the Elephant Orphanage Project in one of the most rapid response rescues to date. In the early hours of the morning, an alert is raised that a six-month-old calf has been found abandoned in Livingstone. The baby is quickly rescued and transferred to the neighbouring Elephant Café where it is stabilised, fed, watered and calmed by the presence of the other elephants (who are resident at the Café). Meanwhile, the team in Lusaka work swiftly to fly a purpose-built crate down to Livingstone. The baby is then mildly sedated and crated, ready for her upcoming journey: A two-hour flight to Lusaka followed by an hour-long drive to the Elephant Nursery where she is safely tucked up in bed by 8:30 pm that night.

Until her survival was certain, the little calf was known as #43, in honour of being the forty-third elephant assisted by EOP. And although she is still very vulnerable and traumatised, she is renamed Lufutuko, or Tuko for short, which means ‘survivor’ in Tonga, the local language. Safely in the orphanage, she is getting to know her keepers and being regularly fed 16 litres of specialised milk formula.

Like all the young elephants at the orphanage, she has a long and difficult road ahead to overcome the loss of her family, learn how to integrate and socialise with other elephants and, ultimately, grow into a healthy adult who will hopefully walk free. 

An orphaned baby elephant enjoys a snack.

RAISING FOR REHABILITATION Taking care of an orphaned elephant and giving them a second chance at life is expensive: From rescue, to release and beyond, including post-release monitoring and research, every part of the elephant’s rescue and rehabilitation is a cost. Rescues alone can vary widely depending on the area in which the calf is found. In some instances, special vehicles, boats or even planes need to be hired. Add to that scout and tracker fees, vet fees — which can include quarantine, sedatives, blood tests and various medications — and the cost of manpower, an ‘average’ rescue can be in the region of US$2 500. And once an orphan is rescued, costs continue to mount. With a staff of 27 at the Kafue Release Facility and another 17 at the Lilayi Elephant Nursery, wages are not an insignificant cost. Feeding, veterinary, maintenance, communications... the list is endless. There are 18 orphans currently being cared for between the two facilities, each costing approximately US$35 000 a year.

The Elephant Orphanage Project has an operating budget in the region of US$600 000 a year, which is an enormous struggle to secure.

The project itself was established in 2007, with critical and ongoing funding from the David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation, the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW) and the Olsen Animal Trust, with the mission of rescuing, rehabilitating and releasing orphaned elephants back into the wild. EOP is part of a conservation initiative developed and operated by Game Rangers International, a Zambian non-profit, nongovernmental organisation.

For more information, to volunteer or donate to Game Rangers International and the Elephant Orphanage Project, visit gamerangersinternational.org.

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LUXE VENTURE

Into the Okavango Known as one of Africa’s most exclusive safari destinations, Botswana’s Okavango Delta offers more than just a lavish escape

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Exploring the Delta in a mokoro.

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I’ve heard many a good and often exhilarating story about bush life and wild encounters but this time it will be more than just a story. This time, it will be my story.

I board the Airlink Avro RJ85 with nervous excitement and land in Maun after about two and a half hours. Coming from cold and rainy South Africa, the heat in Botswana takes me by surprise. Our jovial hosts greet our group at arrivals and usher us towards a small restaurant where we stop for some much-needed refreshments. After cooling down and peeling off as many layers of clothing as possible, we head back to the airport to board a small MacAir plane.

Flying over the Okavango Delta, which consists of scrub-covered islands in almost 3 000 square kilometres of swamp, I find myself catching my breath every few seconds. We are headed to one of the Delta’s newest, and relatively more affordable, offerings: Xobega Island Camp.

En route, I see a crocodile lazily basking in the sun and hippos glaring at me — bodies submerged, two pairs of beady eyes wide awake and alert.

The splash of the cold river water is welcomed, as is the cool breeze generated by the speeding boat. From afar, I see people waving on the riverbank and before we’ve even disembarked, we are welcomed with song and drink.

My room is a rustic Meru-style tent, complete with twin beds and an open-air bathroom, from where the eyes of sneaky primate voyeurs are often visible at night. The entire camp is eco-friendly, using chemical lavatories, bucket showers and solar-generated electricity. Traditional, hearty

meals are served al fresco, making for a completely relaxed and laid-back bush camp experience.

Sega, the camp manager, informs us that Xobega has a resident elephant called Santos who occasionally visits and we should not be alarmed if we encounter him.

Don’t be alarmed by a majestic mammal walking about the camp...

Sure, sounds easy enough.

Later that afternoon, once the heat has somewhat subsided, we head to the river for a sunset cruise. Camera in hand, I take in the shimmering waters of the Delta. As if on cue, the horizon erupts into bursts of yellows, pinks and blues — a remarkable sight to behold.

A Jacana playfully hops from one waterlily leaf to the next. ‘Actophilornis africanus, also known as the African Jacana,’ one birder in the group points out. Our driver speeds up and I hear a loud thump as we make our way to more open waters.

‘A hippo!’ everyone shouts in unison.

‘He won’t hold a grudge. Hippos have thick skin,’ a fellow traveller says jokingly.

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Left and this image: The Okavango Delta is home to many elephant herds and hippo pods. Hippos often congregate in the open waters when they forage for food.

We pour ourselves some drinks and, in silence, take in the last rays as they disappear in the distance. The quiet of the Okavango, only broken by the chirping of birds, cements this as my favourite time of day.

After an evening of tales around the campfire, my guide valiantly escorts me to my tent. The grunt of a hippo and the call of some other wild animal keep me awake. I hardly get any sleep that night.

It’s freezing the next morning and I opt out of an early morning shower and head for breakfast instead before climbing aboard a mokoro, a type of canoe that seats two people, to navigate the shallow, murky waters of the Delta.

As we slowly make our way through the water, our guide tells us more about the flora. He picks a waterlily and quickly weaves a necklace. ‘We used to do this as children,’ he informs us. ‘You see, all you do is crack the stem then peel, crack then peel.’

After our mokoro adventure, we take a motor boat back to camp. ‘Welcome back,’ Sega greets us. ‘You have just missed Santos. He was over at tent 10.’

Sunrise and sunset cruises are an everyday occurrence at Xobega Island Camp.

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The ever-elusive Santos. I’m starting to wonder if he’s an Okavango Delta urban legend.

Later at lunch, I’m informed that Santos also stole some oranges while our meal was being prepared — and I, of course, was asleep. ‘He’s a naughty boy, that Santos! And he loves his oranges!’

I better see Santos before I leave this island, I think begrudgingly as I make my way to bed.

In the quiet of the night,

I hear leaves crackling and a tree shaking outside. My heart pounds in my chest. Maybe he heard my silent

plea or maybe it was the fruit from the sausage tree that I’d strategically placed in the pathway to my tent but Santos was finally here! I lay silent, listening to the elephant chewing. I’m too afraid to move, or even breathe, scared that I might startle him.

That night, I sleep wonderfully, knowing that this special, legendary creature finally came to say hello.

The following day, we say goodbye to Xobega and prepare for a five-hour trek through Moremi Game Reserve. As we enter, we see two vehicles parked to the left of the entrance. ‘There must be something there,’ our guide tells us.

‘I think it might be lions.’

‘Please let it be lions,’ I softly plea with the powers that be.

And, as we pull up, we spot two fully grown male lions basking in the sun.

‘Probably brothers,’ says our guide. ‘Quiet now; let’s not startle them.’

After our long commute, we finally arrive at a dry, desert-like camp that is in complete contrast to the green, lush vegetation of Xobega Island Camp.

The camp manager, Innocent, briefs us on safety before the staff usher us to our tents: ‘Don’t leave your tent at night.’

‘Be vigilant walking around the camp.’

From top: A Meru-style tent at Tuskers Bush Camp; A herd of elephants congregate at the watering hole at Tuskers.

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CALVARY Latin word meaning “place of the skulls” This is my craft ~ It represents honoring the animal after it’s dead, seeing the beauty in its remains and maintaining respect for the life that has been... and giving it “new life”.

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LUXE VENTURE

An ancient Baobab tree offers an ideal setting for a braai after a long day of bush adventures.

Words: Elske Joubert; Photography: Emma Gatland, courtesy images

I’m smack-bang in the middle of the bush. Tuskers is completely unfenced, meaning wild animals roam around freely. This is animal territory and I am merely a tolerated guest here.

We all meet up for lunch in the dining tent where we witness two elephant bulls lock tusks in a fight for dominance, just a few metres away at the watering hole. After its defeat, the younger bull waits patiently for his chance to drink some water. ‘These young bulls know what’s what,’ a guide tells us. ‘He knows he’s lost the fight and has to wait until the older male is finished drinking.’

After lunch, it’s time for a bucket shower and siesta. I lay on my bed, looking out towards the bush and count myself blessed to be able to experience nature in all its unfiltered glory.

Our last day at Tuskers is filled with surprises. As I enjoy my morning coffee, some hippos play hide-and-seek in the water but are interrupted by a majestic sight: A herd of elephants. I sit in awe.

Back at camp, one of our guides cautions us to dress warmly as we get ready to embark on our afternoon

FLIGHT PLAN Airlink offers direct flights from Cape Town and Johannesburg to Maun, Botswana. flyairlink.com Xobega Island Camp is located on a private island in the Okavango Delta, a one-and-ahalf-hour boat ride from Xakanaxa Boat Station while Tuskers Bush Camp is located on a 365 000-hectare private concession on the border of Moremi Game Reserve. Both camps are part of Sun Destinations and are selected based on their pristine locations within Botswana. sundestinations. co.za

game drive. ‘We have a surprise for you later.’

Heading back to camp after our game drive, it is getting dark and it seems like we have missed a turn.

‘Why are the vehicle’s lights turned off?’ someone in the group asks.

Before our guide can answer, we see lanterns marking out a path. Set under a large baobab tree is our last meal. Like an ode to home, we feast on braai beneath the stars, flames illuminating our faces. I look around at the broad smiles of my fellow travellers and grin happily at the magical memories of the Okavango Delta that will follow me home.  EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER

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GLOBETROTTER

Northern Exposure Morocco’s desert sand, spicy cuisine and ceramic artistry is nothing short of an African fairy-tale

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Marrakech’s streets and markets are a hive of activity, even at night.

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Morocco — the North African country that is booming with modernism and luxury tourism. Drenched in history yet with innovation at its helm, the country’s ‘Red City’ of Marrakech is pioneering this dichotomy through embracing the notion of an Africa reborn. Surrounded by desert and mountains, and bordering the Atlantic Ocean, this cultural hub offers a travel experience that is both traditional and modern, contrasting its Mediterranean heritage with contemporary treasures that include ‘souks’, boutique hotels, culinary experiences and museums filled with ancient artefacts.

Stay Boutique hotel Ryad Dyor Marrakech is a charming illustration of how a traditional ‘riad’ is transformed into a place of modern comfort. The hotel is idyllic with traditional artworks and leather craftsmanship adorning its interiors. Besides the cosy suites, it is situated near a hammam spa, where weary travellers can relax and unwind, and is on the doorstep of the most popular tourist sites in the Red City.

Known for its enchanting gardens, the Ksar Char-Bagh Relais & Chateaux is where Morocco’s French flair comes to life. Visitors have the option of opulent suites that overlook the riad’s exclusive garden or apartments with terraces. Situated 10 minutes from the city centre, the Chateaux’s amenities — a billiard room, spa, crystal pool, and cigar cellar and smoking lounge — is reminiscent of a bygone era.

A few miles away, in the Moroccan mountain range known as Middle Atlas, Michlifen Resort & Golf is a five-star getaway that presents a unique perspective on the country.

Luxurious alpine chalets that are open during summer as well as winter, when the country — quite surprisingly — experiences snowfall, entrance guests in

a wonderland that is a far cry from the desert landscape that is generally associated with Morocco.

Clockwise from left: The Museé Yves Saint Laurent, which opened early in 2018; Lamb tagine served in an earthenware bowl; Amenities at the Ryad Dyor Marrakech.

Golfing, spa days and hikes through the Ifrane National Park are par for the course or, for the more docile, the Château Roslane Boutique Hotel and Spa’s vineyard serves a stellar glass of wine. ryaddyor.com, ksarcharbagh.fr, michlifen.com, facebook.com/chateauroslane

LEARN THE LINGO Riad A multi-story house with inward-facing windows that overlook a courtyard in the middle of the building.

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and is home to up to 5 000 unique haute couture pieces, ranging from textiles to accessories, as well as mood boards and sketches that have shaped the designer’s career. The museum is also home to an incredible liberal arts library, accessible by appointment to researchers of archaeology, curatorship, history and art.

The Koutoubia Mosque is another exemplar illustration of monumentus architecture stooped in history. Its unique style was a collaborative effort between the Berbers and 12th-century military commander Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansurin. Unfortunately, the mosque can only be admired from outside by non-Muslims as they are prohibited from entering.

North of Marrakech, in Tangier, a port on the Strait of Gibraltar, the Cave of Hercules brings the myth of the great Greek hero Heracles to life with day tours to this natural beauty. The entrance of the cave faces land whilst the exit overlooks the sea and is shaped in a reverse map of the African continent. darchef.ma, travel-exploration.com, museeyslmarrakech.com, a-maps.com, inspirock.com

Play While feasting on Moroccan cuisine is wonderful, mastering its flavours is a priceless skill. Dar Chef restaurant in Marrakech offers an authentic cooking class where participants learn hearty Moroccan recipes and are immersed in the experience by having to buy all the ingredients from souks in Medina, which is the old part of the city, prior to the class.

Food is not the only highlight of the city, though. Morocco is rich in arts and culture and has more than 15 museums, most notably the Dar Batha Museum and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent.

Housed in an old royal palace in Fez, the Dar Batha — also known as the Qasr al-Batha — displays ancient collectables such as delicate jewellery, historical documents, cobalt-blue pottery and iron work. The ‘zellij’ flooring, giant medieval-style doors and courtyards with huge fountain centrepieces are breath-taking, to say the least.

Over in Marrakech, the newly opened Musée Yves Saint Laurent is a tribute to the fashion legend

Dine Influenced by the Renaissance era, the Grand Café de la Poste has a French-inspired menu and ambiance. Head chef Philippe Duranton prepares his dishes with only the freshest of garden vegetables and the highest quality of butchered meats, and the menu is updated with new additions and special offers on a weekly basis. Signature dishes include traditional steak tartare, duck confit and a French cheese selection.

For genuine Moroccan cuisine, NOMAD restaurant is the ideal location for a delicious tagine. Located in Medina, the restaurant has four floors with an option of dining on the rooftop terrace. It is renowned for its ‘modern Moroccan cuisine’ and also caters for vegetarians and pescatarians (the roasted cauliflower and fish-ball tagine are tasty options, respectively) while carnivores can tuck into the decadent lamb tagine.

Known as Moors, the mixed Arab inhabitants of Morocco have contributed greatly to the flavours of the city. At La Sqala Café in Casablanca, exquisite fountains with blue mosaic tiling are contrasted by traditional Moor dishes such as kemias, kefta and méchoui. The ambience is reminiscent of a Mediterranean-style café, enhanced by the greenery of plants that surround the courtyard.

For a complete luxury dining experience, La Table at the Royal Mansour Hotel proffers white tableclothes, stunning silverware and elegant decor coupled with a lavish menu that boasts delicious dishes such as grilled lobster with ginger butter as well as a hearty black angus rib-eye steak. grandcafedelaposte.restaurant, nomadmarrakech.com, restopro.ma/sqala, royalmansour.com

LEARN THE LINGO Souk A craft market or bazaar Tagine An earthenware pot made of clay or ceramic.

‘Souk’ Truly delving into the heart of Morocco means exploring the wide variety of souks that pulsate in each major city. The most infamous souk, Jemaa El Fna, can be found in the centre of Marrakech. A massive city square packed with merchants and to which most of EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 43

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LEARN THE LINGO Kémia A variety of appetizers such as tapas Kefta A dish similar to meatballs Méchoui Barbequed lamb Tagine A Maghrebi dish named after the earthenware pot it is cooked in.

ROAM MANOR HOUSE in the Karoo

Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: Unsplash, courtesy images

Fashion, food and crafts can all be found at the busy Marrakechi souks across the city.

the surrounding alleyways lead, it is here that local traders and craftsmen display their finest work in the form of ornaments, street food, jewellery and more — a souvenir collector’s absolute dream. The vibrancy of the square is enhanced by dancers, singers and musicians performing for passersby and neighbouring riads to enjoy.

For a further examination of craftsmanship, Tamegroute — a village located in the Draa River valley — is host to a cacophony of intricate handwork, including tagines, plates and bowls, created by humble local artists. The materials used for these creations are sourced from the area and the Draa riverbed, where ingredients for the green glaze many potters use as a coat for their ceramics is found.

Over at the Fez Tannery, fashion lovers will be spoilt for choice with the wealth of bags, purses and wallets on sale, each design stitched to perfection. Visitors are also given a chance to witness the production of natural leather and the creation of the products on display. getyourguide.com, traveltamegroute.net, feztannery.com 

ROAM SAFARI LODGE in the Karoo

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48 HOURS

Old town charms Despite its size, the little fishing village of Vilankulo in Mozambique is a pleasant retreat for beach-loving travellers

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Less than two hours after boarding a flight at OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, I am walking along the beautiful beach of Vilankulo in the south of Mozambique. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular destination as palm trees line the shore against a rustic backdrop of colourful wooden boats floating on translucent water.

Named after Gamala Vilankulo Mukoke, a tribal chief, the five-kilometre-long fishing village was later renamed Vilanculos during the colonial era. The small village is one of many in the 12 districts of Inhambane Province, north of Maputo. With very little ground to cover, it’s a good weekend pitstop on any Mozambican itinerary.

Stay With few commercial hotels on the mainland, traditional huts reside in harmony alongside five-star hotels.

Vilanculos Beach Lodge offers all the creature comforts of a swanky resort with modern bungalows, manicured lawns and stunning views while Bahia Mar Boutique Hotel is a rustic five-star experience that pays homage to the design of the local village huts. For uber-luxury, Anantara Bazaruto Island Resort is based on Bazaruto and offers utmost exclusivity and a range of signature experiences.

Back on the mainland, Casa Babi is sought-after

by South Africans as affordable bed-and-breakfast lodgings. Situated right on the beachfront, and like many other self-catering facilities, its kitchen also serves up a bevvy of dinner dishes. Vilankulo is also a haven for backpackers and budget travellers with clean and reliable self-catering spots, such as Complexo Alemanha, dotted along its coast. vilanculosbeachlodge.com, bahiamarclub.com, anantara.com, casababi.com Explore The only way to take in the beauty of Vilankulo is by tuk-tuk. With hardly any traffic and beautiful architecture — an original church built by Portuguese settlers in the 19th century, for example –

the village is an explorer’s dream.

Previous page: The main beach at Vilankulo. This page: A dhow trip to Maguruque Island.

Inset: Saying ‘hello’ to fishermen on the way to the island.

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The Bazaruto Archipelago, which consists of six islands that are only accessible by helicopter or boat, is situated just off the coast of Vilankulo. One-hour boat trips to the islands are available from the beachfront with the closest island being Maguruque.

Compared to the more popular tourist hotspot of Bazaruto Island, Maguruque is untouched by commercialism and only sports one resort, which is closed for most of the year. It is home to a small population of 100 inhabitants with a small school consisting of one classroom. Spanning a distance of a mere 1 km long and 1.4 km wide, it offers a solitary escape for time well spent beneath the palms, book in hand, or for the occasional dip in the turquoise water, which is deep enough for snorkelling and diving.

For the more intrepid, hikes up the picturesque dunes feature lush vegetation — the perfect way to work up an appetite before tucking in to a freshly prepared lunch of rice with grilled barracuda or chicken and garnished with spiced vegetables.

Shop Most of Vilankulo’s business and services are located on the main street — from the hospital and banks to supermarkets and clothing boutiques.

The street gets busier towards the T-junction, where the village market is erected. Although the market itself has grown, the original structure built by the Portuguese is still standing. On offer is fresh coconut, fish and Portuguese food; printed fabrics and woven bags; and plenty of knickknacks ripe for display back home.

As with any other market, haggling is expected but the vendors are friendly and do take kindly to a ‘no’.

Feast Mozambique is well-known for its seafood and Vilankulo is no exception. The local dish comprises greens, shrimp and peanuts served with rice or pap, and can be found at most establishments.

Right outside Casa Babi, fishermen proffer fresh-out-thewater fish at the best prices after 4 pm while most hotels accommodate seafood bought outside their properties, including prawns and squid, and accompanied by steaming Portuguese rolls.

For more homely fare, Kilimanjaro Cafe is owned and run by Saffas. A social hotspot, free Wifi and an array of salads, sandwiches, pizza and pasta on the changing daily menu keep locals and travellers coming back for more. 

From top: Fabric shopping at the Vilankulo market; Buying fresh fish at the beach; The old church built by the Portuguese in the 19th century.

FLIGHT PLAN Airlink provides direct daily flights to Vilankulo from Johannesburg, and five days a week from Nelspruit. flyairlink.com

Words: Mantombi Makhubele & Zainab SvR; Photography: Mantombi Makhubele, courtesy images

mozambique.co.za, dolphindhowsafari.com

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2018/03/20 4:00 PM

A taste of India The perfect entry point into the Madhya Pradesh area of central India, its capital Bhopal is a lesser-known but fascinating place to visit

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BUCKET LIST

Clockwise from top: A view of the entrance of the Taj-ul-Masajid mosque-come-school; A cow and calf decorated for Diwali; Jalebi is a sensational street food, sometimes even eaten for breakfast.

Taj-ul-Masajid in Bhopal is the largest mosque in India and one of the largest in Asia. A striking reddish-pink building in the Mughal style with two tall white-domed minarets, it is used as a school during the week. On vast metres of lush red carpet, flanked by colossal carved stone pillars, boys sit in small groups with their teacher. Wearing my salwar kameez, a scarf modestly draped over my head and shoulders, I seem to be as much an object of interest to these fine lads as they are to me. Shy smiles encourage me to step closer and a teacher respectfully invites me to tell his students about my country.

The ceilings of the mosque are high. In several corners, there are men praying or reading their quran. On a brass stand, a water station provides drink for any who are thirsty. The atmosphere is quiet and intense, but relaxed. I am impressed by the discipline of these youngsters, wearing their fezzes. It strikes me as such a good use of a religious building to double as a large openplan classroom during the week. Outside is a huge courtyard with a shallow pool where men may wash their feet before worship. The area is kept immaculately clean by men robed in white, who regularly sweep.

With my knowledgeable guide — organised by Beyond the Taj, a tour company specialising in the lesser-known sights of India — I stroll through the Islamic Quarter surrounding the

mosque to see the small stores. Halal butchers work in their tiny individual shops, cutting up meat for the community. As it is the time of Diwali, a joyful Hindu festival, everything seems to be decorated with tinsel, baubles and brightly coloured ribbons and bells, including the cows, water buffalo and a donkey. Even trucks, motor cars and bicycles are bedecked in finery and glittering embellishments. It is a perfect time to visit India as the weather is more mild and the celebrations are welcoming of guests. Many houses and shops have been freshly painted so the brightly coloured walls make a fine spectacle. Encouraged by my guide, I try some of the authentic street food at stalls known by him to be reliable and tasty.

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BUCKET LIST

I have learnt to drink nimbu pani — a delectable combination of lime juice, mint and water — when I am not having the refreshing lassi with its yoghurt and fruit mix.

From top: Three woman that tend the vegetable garden at Jehan Numa Retreat; During the day, the carpeted hall of Taj-ul-Masajid is used as a school for Muslim boys; The sign for Jehan Numa Retreat.

not unlike a South African koeksister. Although Bophal is popular with Indian tourists, it is less well-known to foreigners so I am welcomed with warm greetings and kind inquiries about myself. Together with the local people, I embrace the crazy street life, enjoying the warm sunshine, old city gates, beautiful architecture — some with intriguing French influences — and the expanses of water forming a series of lakes.

In a dramatic and confiding style, my guide tells me that Bhopal was ruled for four generations by women — and Muslim woman at that! Something unique in all of India. It is said they were extremely successful and led the people kindly and fairly yet not without some intrigue and plotting.

I am staying in a pleasantly air-conditioned and spacious suite at Jehan Numa Retreat on the outskirts of Bhopal. Specialising in local cuisine of the region, with an organic garden for fresh vegetables and herbs, the restaurant is open and set under a splendid jamun tree. I relax to the blissful sound of birds in the manicured garden that borders the Van Vihar National Park.

The manager of the retreat steps outside to regale me with more fascinating tales of the history of the region before kindly inviting me to dine with him that evening so he may answer all my questions about the Indian dishes served in the intimate fine-dining space of The Coriander Leaf, the retreat’s indoor restaurant.

Early the next morning, I rise before breakfast to stroll along one of the lakes where I find the remains of an earlier Hindu festival. Huge effigies of humans and various Hindu gods have been made of straw, dressed and placed on wooden frameworks. I meet some worshippers who have come to perform puja and I quietly watch as they light candles, place food and chant their prayers in the open air. Briskly walking back to Jehan Numa, I am offered a lift on a motorcycle, which already has a passenger. As I have walked further than I had intended, I accept and we all ride together, crammed on a little seat meant for one.

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Words Gillian McLaren; Photography: Akshat.saxena2, Gillian McLaren, Paras Prateek, Picasa/Wikimedia Commons, Stephenekka/Wikipedia

BUCKET LIST

After breakfast, I am escorted on a daylong road trip to Satpura Tiger Reserve. As we drive, we pass a blackened structure where the shocking gas disaster of December 1984 took place, the worst industrial accident at that point in human history. The abandoned pesticide plant still stands today with its flare stack and network of rusted pipes. Hundreds of families were affected by the catastrophe, and my driver tells me of how it affected his parents and other family members. He stops to show me the memorial statue that has been erected to pay tribute to those who lost their lives or who were physically disabled by the toxins, and I reflect on all the tragic stories I have heard.

After a few entertaining hours of travel — with me asking for regular stops to photograph some of the countryside and vibrant street life — we arrive at the Bhimbetka rock shelters where my guide, a history of art specialist, leads me through some of the caves decorated with astounding pre-historic Palaeolithic art. This parietal art site is arguably more impressive than the renowned Chauvet Cave in France.

I am mesmerised by beautifully executed animals, hunting scenes and patterns made from hand prints. It is a vast area of caves with only a few open to the public. I had no idea of the import of this site so am loath to leave but we need to reach the next leg of my journey at Satpura National Park and I reluctantly tear myself away.

Off the clichéd beaten track, Bhopal is a great place to experience the zany, vibrant street life of India, explore the remnants of the magnificent old city, try some excellent regional food and act as a base from which to venture further afield. 

FLIGHT PLAN The fastest flight to India from Oliver Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, Ethiopian Airlines is also comfortable, has an impeccable safety record and gracious cabin crew. With brief daily stopovers in Addis Ababa, you reach Delhi or Mumbai in India with minimum delay. ethiopianairlines.com To get to Bhopal, fly to Delhi where an overnight stay or even a few days is advisable before flying to Raja Bhoj airport. From here, a 15-km drive through pretty countryside takes you to Jehan Numa Retreat. jehannuma.com Beyond the Taj offers bespoke trips to India that include unique accommodations, English-speaking guides and stops at lesser-known sights. beyondthetaj.com

From top: Stone Age rock shelters and caves at Bhopal’s Bhimbetka; A view of the lake beside the Taj-ul-Masajid in Bhopal.

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GEAR

Safari chic Functional yet fashionable, these style picks will elevate your next African adventure

360 Degrees cap R249, First Ascent trousers R999 and Hi-Tec hiking boots R1 699, all Outdoor Warehouse; Adidas T-shirt R489.90, Sportsmans Warehouse; Necklaces and watch, stylist’s own

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Rip Curl hat R550 and First Ascent shirt R759.90, both Sportsmans Warehouse; First Ascent shorts R659, Outdoor Warehouse; Bracelet, stylist’s own

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GEAR

African Nature fleece jacket R700 and Columbia shorts R769, both selected Outdoor Warehouse stores; Asics top R700 and Reef sandals R549.90, both Sportsmans Warehouse; Earrings, stylist’s own | Campmor chair R899, Natural Instincts table R899 and Tracks for Africa map R200, all Outdoor Warehouse

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First Ascent shirt R599, First Ascent shorts R599 and Natural Instincts water bottle R150, all Outdoor Warehouse; New Balance vest R599.90, Sportsmans Warehouse

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Photography: Armand Hough; Styling: Taugheedah Abdullah-Jacobs; Hair & make-up: Lyndal Fitzgerald/Supernova; Model: Dehonney/Fusion Models

GEAR

African Nature waterproof jacket R909, First Ascent capri pants R899 and Adidas sneakers R1 399, all Outdoor Warehouse; New Balance top R459.90, Sportsmans Warehouse *Prices and availability of all products are subject to change.

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Paradise found Turquoise oceans, jade peaks and pristine beaches are part of everyone’s tropical island fantasy but Mauritius adds laid-back leisure and local haunts to this postcard-perfect vision

Island holidays predominantly consist of lazing on a beach lounger while soaking up the sun. However, the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius comes packaged with a healthy dose of outdoor adventure and a solid serving of local culture to balance out the ‘rest and recreation’ component of a vacation.

At just over 65 km in length and 45 km wide, the main island is only slightly larger than the Cape Peninsula but a profusion of volcanic 60

peaks and sugar-sand beaches ensure endless exploration. Imagine a heady blend of France, India and Africa, with a backing track of hooters, reggae music and cockerels crowing. The aroma of the seafood, curries and Thai dishes blend with suntan lotion and sea air, creating an unmistakeable tropical island scent. tourism-mauritius.mu

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SNAPSHOT

A steep trail up a peak known as ‘Little Tower’ affords hikers superb views across the south of the main island with the Black River flowing from rugged ranges down towards the surf break at Tamarin Bay. EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER

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A hammock swaying gently between two palm trees near Sugar Beach captures the laid-back rhythms of this Indian Ocean paradise.

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SNAPSHOT

The streets of Flic-en-Flac brim with dozens of cafes and restaurants. Pakbo offers diners excellent Lavazza coffee, fresh seafood and, of course, ice-cold Phoenix Lager.

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Island architecture seems to be of no discernable style but rather manifests as a pot-pourri of colonial French with Indian overtones. The Mauritian clothing trade is booming so expect to find bright dresses and sarongs billowing in the wind outside street-level kiosks.

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image and story credit

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Photograp hy & credit words: Jacques Marais image and story

image and story credit

SNAPSHOT

One of the most surprising discoveries is an underwater ‘sculpture garden’ near Flic-en-Flac. Ganesh, Hanuman, Buddha and several other Hindu deities await swimmers as they dip into the Big Blue.

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Wine country Head off South Africa’s celebrated R62 for a weekend wine route less travelled

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Taking a drive on the renowned R62 from Cape Town via Paarl and through Du Toitskloof Pass towards Robertson is around two hours. Yet, it is more than worth it. As one of the leading wine regions in South Africa, the Robertson Wine Valley (robertsonwinevalley.com) proffers more than 50 wineries and tourism stops, and encapsulates the towns of Ashton, Bonnievale, McGregor and Robertson. And, for those short on time, it offers the ideal base from which to enjoy wining and dining at a few select estates.

Nestled in Agterkliphoogte Valley in Robertson, Windfall Wine Farm (windfallwine.co.za) is a small boutique farm that could possibly be one of the valley’s most well-kept secrets. Before retreating to one of the five self-catering cottages on the property, take a seat next to the cosy fireplace with a view that overlooks the surrounding vineyard to indulge in a private tasting of their Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chenin and the Windfall Mendola Blanc de Blanc MCC. Consisting of a nose prevalent with citrus flavours followed by a nutty palate, the MCC is the perfect accompaniment to an array of dishes. Windfall also produce an Extra Virgin olive oil and an excellent pot still brandy called The Hunter.

Just north of Windfall lies farmer Tertius de Villiers’ Prévoir Wines (prevoirwinesrobertson.co.za). De Villiers’ passion is clearly reflected in every bottle that leaves his 1.56-hectare estate, tiny in comparison to many of his neighbours’. Prévoir produces small batches of truly exceptional Shiraz and Chardonnay, the latter of which

is a fruit-forward medley with a smooth finish. With a mere 3 200 and 1 260 bottles of the Shiraz and Chardonnay, respectively, crafted in 2018, those who manage to obtain a bottle of Prévoir can count themselves amongst a very lucky few.

Further afield, a kilometre outside the town of Robertson, Paul René MCC (paulrenemcc.co.za) stands proudly on Wonderfontein Estate.

Visitors are greeted by owner and bubbly producer Henk van Niekerk.

Van Niekerk and his wife Monica are the visionaries behind Paul René MCC and, thanks to the brand’s growing popularity, will host the second annual Paul René Bubbly Festival on 3 November at the estate. Both the Rosé and the Brut are produced in limited quantities with the latter from 100% chardonnay grapes, and each bottle fermented for no less than 20 months. For the Brut, this results in a vibrant mousse that opens to a fresh bouquet of fruit flavours with a dry finish. Lucky patrons

From left: Paul René MCC is the perfect accompaniment to a picnic overlooking the vineyards; A private cellar tour at Lord’s Wines; McGregor Winery is the formidable heart of the wine industry in the small town of McGregor.

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From top: Sunset at Tanagra; Windfall’s self-catering cottages provide a simple escape to the countryside.

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PIT STOPS 1 Windfall Wine Farm 2 Prévoir Wines 3 Paul René MCC 4 McGregor Winery 5 Lord’s Wines 6 Lord’s Guest Lodge 7 Tanagra Wine and Guest Farm

may even be invited to enjoy a glass of bubbly on the lush green lawns with views of the majestic Langeberg Mountains in the distance.

From Paul René, head south for about 19 km towards a friendly town built at the foot of the Riviersonderend mountain range. Although diminutive, McGregor boasts numerous wineries with 35 wine producers at McGregor Winery (mcgregorwinery.co.za) alone, which is indirectly responsible for the majority share of the community’s income. In April this year, the winery celebrated its 70th birthday and is still proud to be able to boast that one of its top-selling wines is the less common varietal, Colombard.

Passing through the town leads to the Road2Nowhere, which cuts along the northern slopes of the surrounding mountains and straight to the gates of Lord’s Wines (lordswinery.com). While there is no direct link between its regal name and terroir, it is quite easy to understand why the varietals from this winery is fit for a king’s table: Cool climates and vineyards set at the highest point above sea level in the valley produce some of the most enticing wines in the region. The estate is home to an award-winning Pinot Noir and offers private cellar tours as well as personalised wine tastings with estate manager Louwrens Rademeyer. To truly enjoy the best of Lord’s Wines, a short 20-minute drive to the Lady Grey Restaurant at Lord’s Guest Lodge (lordsguestlodge.co.za) offers a fourstar à la carte menu on the veranda.

Back in McGregor, spend a night at Tanagra Wine and Guest Farm (tanagra-wines.co.za) where owners Robert and Anette Rosenbach offer two apartments, three cottages and a loft studio for those looking for an authentic experience on a working wine farm. The units are self-catering but more time will be spent enjoying the range of single-vineyard wines, including Grappa and Eau de Vie, that are produced at the farm’s distillery.

While the Robertson Wine Valley offers a smorsgabord of vino that caters to everyone from the novice to the connoisseur, it is the roads less travelled that present the most promising of fruit. 

Words: Louise de Kock; Photography: Ockie Fourie, Courtesy images

T R AV E L FA R E

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TOP TIPS

GOING SOLO Travelling is an adventure all on its own but taking a trip alone can provide an exhilirating experience unlike any other

TRY SOMETHING NEW

Travelling alone allows people to explore their fears and encourages them to do something new and exciting. It also challenges the ideas individuals often have about themselves. As long as it is legal and safe, venturing into the unknown — whether by jumping off a bridge or trekking the great outdoors — brings people out of their comfort zones.

2

STRIKE UP CONVERSATIONRIKEONVERSATION

Solo travel allows people to engage with strangers more easily. With no travel partner or group, individuals are often forced to ask for directions or join a group of strangers to partake in an activity. Even the super shy will eventually need to crawl out of their shell to compliment a fellow traveller or strike up conversation with a local to gain an inside perspective on a new place.

FIND A DIFFERENT VIEW

Watching people in a subtle way allows travellers to learn about a country’s culture and people. Busy spots, such as a cafe or mall, is the ideal vantage point to see a destination from the eyes of a street-food vendor or a businessman. Taking photographs of the surroundings will also provide a new perspective on the destination.

4

CAPTURE MEMORIES ON FILM

If today’s YouTube influencers have taught the world anything, it’s that a creative and funny video will encourage people to stop and stare — and maybe even participate by commenting or sharing it on their own social media pages. A smartphone now has all the tools required to create short videos that can be posted directly to social media in slow motion, sped up or with an hilarious filter over it.

Words: Clinton Moodley; Photography: Pixabay

FIND YOUR PEOPLE

Social media also provides the perfect space to make connections while travelling. Reach out on local groups of interest, such as a football club or food association, or post a comment about the destination — it’s surprising how many people will offer to host an individual for dinner or take them sightseeing.

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COMMUNICATION SOLUTIONS FOR YOUR ADVENTUROUS ACTIVITIES

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T R AV E L H AC K E R FLOSS FIRST

Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: Freepix, Courtesy images

It may seem strange but dental floss and a needle are travel essentials. Floss is an extremely strong thread and comes in handy for stitching on buttons or repairing a daypack. Store the needle in the box and keep it close by.

QUICK PASS

POWER UP

Currently only approved by US Customs and Border Protection, the Mobile Passport app allows travellers to scan their passports via the camera on a smartphone without having to search through pockets and bags for the hard copy.

Accepted by 25 US airports, check ahead before leaving your real passport behind.

Keep keys, phones or wallets dry whilst hiking in the rain with this handy pouch. One side has a transparent seal that allows convenient access to a smartphone’s touchscreen, making it easier to swipe through playlists, while a lanyard is attached so the pouch can also be worn around the neck.

Despite the pouch being splash-proof, swimming is not recommended.

Mobile Passport, free, mobilepassport.us

Capestorm Dry Accessory Pouch, R99, outdoorwarehouse.co.za

COLOUR POP Most camera bags are black but when travelling in the sun, the camera equipment cased inside runs the risk of overheating.

Opting for a bag that has more colour, preferably a light shade, will keep your equipment cool — and will be easier to spot in a crowd.

TRACK ‘EM ALL A watch made for the adventurer, the Suunto Spartan Trainer sports a heart-rate monitor, GPS tracker and fitness tracker. Its sturdy build and 10 hours of battery life in training mode makes it ideal for both fitness fundis and hiking afficionados.

Suunto Spartan Trainer Wrist HR GPS Watch, R4 499.90, sportsmanswarehouse.co.za EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 75

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THE LIST

IN VINE WE TRUST

LANZERAC WINE ESTATE Stellenbosch, South Africa Encompassing pure class, culture and history, Lanzerac Wine Estate is host to the most regal tasting room on one of the famed Western Cape wine routes. Visitors are treated to a first-class wine experience and can choose from a range of premium tasting selections, including a decadent wine and chocolate pairing. A tour of the vintage cellar is a must as is dining at the Manor Kitchen and Taphuis, or grabbing a snack from the deli. The estate borders the quaint town of Karindal in Stellenbosch and welcomes overnight stays in its luxurious 17th-century-styled hotel. A spa overlooks the Stellenbosch valley and is a picturesque way to end a day of wining and dining. +27 21 887 1132, info@lanzerac.co.za, lanzerac.co.za EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 77

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AWASH WINE Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Mekanisa and Lideta are the two wineries at the heart of Awash Wine’s organisation, producing the delicious Axumit red, Kemila white and Gouder wines. The vineyards are located in the upper Awash Valley and produce a range of grape varieties, including Chenin Blanc and Petit Syrah, and a wine from the traditional Ethiopian Dodoma grape. Awash Wine hosts several annual events, including an open-air cinema by the beach, celebrity mixers, launch parties and cocktail evenings, where their delectable wines can be enjoyed in a social setting. +251 11 371 7050, info@awashwine.com, awashwines.com

SOAVITA Madagascar The most well-known winery in all of Madagascar, Soavita has been owned by the Verger family since 1973 and is situated in the Madagascan countryside. With the help of French viticulturist Thierry Bernard, the vineyards were restored to produce a selection of European grapes coupled with local vines, and now supplies a revitalised selection of red and white wines. Most notably, Soavita’s Ombilay is particularly distinctive with its infusion of walnut flavours and essence. For a tour of the winery, it’s best to contact a local tour guide upon arrival in Madagascar.

TAKAMAKA BOUTIQUE WINERY Plaine Bonnefin, Mauritius Situated near Mare aux Vacoas, a reservoir in the south-west of Mauritius, Takamaka is a grassroots winery spearheaded by couple Isabelle and Alexander Oxenham. The boutique winery claims to boast the ‘first great Mauritian wine’ and its most unique aspect is that all its wines are made from Mauritian lychees, grown and harvested at Takamaka. Upon arrival, visitors are personally guided by Isabelle and Alexander on a tour of the winery. Indulge in the exclusivity of lychee wine with a tasting then head to the estate’s charming gallery and café for light meals and coffee. +23 05 442 8371, info@takamakawinery.com, takamakawinery.com

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THE LIST NEURAS WINE AND WILDLIFE ESTATE Maltahöhe District, Namibia Located in the sun-soaked desert of Namibia, Neuras Wine and Wildlife Estate provides an idyllic experience for both nature lovers and wine connoisseurs. Priding themselves on not only their luscious wine selection but also their wildlife conservation and sustainability efforts, the estate offers visitors an extensive tasting tour of the cellar and a visit to the vineyard fountains topped off with a divine cheese platter. Spend the night in an eco-friendly villa, sip on sundowners from the stone lappa or take a dip in the swimming pool as the desert sun scorches the earth. Other highlights include exploring the dry riverbed and hiking to the natural springs situated close to the estate. +26 46 329 3417, neuras@naankuse.com, neuraswines.com

LELESHWA Morendat Farm, Naivasha, Kenya Surrounded by striking scenery in the Great Rift Valley, Morendat Farm is home to the Leleshwa winery. The farm’s lush vineyards produce everything from Shiraz and Rosé to Chenin Blanc and their flagship wine, Leleshwa Sauvignon Blanc. The terroir is also quite peculiar as the viticulturalists are able to grow luscious vines in a region extremely close to the equator, where the temperatures can become extreme. Leleshwa offers a purely Kenyan wine tasting experience beneath a safari-style stretch tent as well as the opportunity to learn about the harvesting and the fermentation process on a personalised wine tour of the vineyards.

Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: Unsplash, courtesy images

info@riftvalleywinery.com, leleshwa.com

BUSHMAN ROCK ESTATE Mashonaland East, Zimbabwe Home to a selection of cultivated Zimbabwean wines as well as a restaurant overlooking the estate’s lake and vineyards, Bushman Rock Estate is more of a wine getaway. Stay overnight at the comfortable Bushman Rock Valley View Lodges housed beneath thatched roofs and surrounded by indigenous flora and fauna, enjoy the polo club or indulge in activities as diverse as game safaris, cave walks to the sites of Khoi San paintings as well as horse riding in the veld. +26 37 7215 6119, info@bushmanrock.com, bushmanrock.com EDITION THREE 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 79

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COMPETITION

THE LIST

W I N t a bl e t e g 0 r 4 o f 8 n 5 u 3 R n A h t r o w i r a f sa

Enter now!

Win a two-night stay for you and a partner at Jock Safari Lodge in the Kruger National Park, inclusive of daily game drives, guided wilderness walks and all meals with a selection of house beverages. To enter, email the answer to the following question to competitions@anapublishing.com:

After which local legend is Jock Safari Lodge named?

Photography: Courtesy images

amous trick’s f a P z it F ional ercy ger Nat u of Sir P r K o r e e h h e est of t canine exclusiv south-w and the ovides r e d p h t n e t e p n g in a e c le e. A rec siutated d lands a local heritag odge is shveld, untame d L u t n i s B r a a a e v f y f r h a t utdoor so kS of isto deck, o hectare s rich h ush, Joc e r ter Jock t d it f a n a o ld a iv t s r o d e u g e p g o t Nam with a om. the firs s homa a. Six th es, each during ilodge.c th Afric dge pay r it t u u a e lo o f s s S a ic , d s s le a e k s a g h t lan isit joc the cla d thatc Mpuma g while d sala. V eclude e s in s s w Park in r lo e ie c ll v n e e game ol and ing trav Big Five nge po discern lu s r p e f a f , o s itie revamp n amen Victoria

Terms and conditions: 1 The prize is valid from 1 May – 31 August 2019, subject to availability. 2 The prize is not valid during public holidays, Christmas, New Year and Easter, and is not redeemable for cash. 3 Entrants must reside within the Republic of South Africa. 4 Transport, transfers, flights, laundry and other additional expenses are not included. 5 For full terms and conditions, see page 6.

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2018/10/16 10:25

B O N V O YAG E

I really did not know what to expect pending my first visit to South Africa’s northern neighbour, Zimbabwe, in 2014. After all, Uncle Bob was still very much the main man in charge and there was no sign of a regime change any time soon. The fact that I was set to make daily trips to the Harare Sports Club, which was virtually the Mugabe backyard due to its location directly across the street from the Presidential State House, only intensified my fears.

But bar my frequent visits to Home Affairs on the first couple of days to collect my infamous ‘journalist pass’ as well as a few obscure road closures after 6 pm, my visit to ‘Sunshine City’ was dotted with more optimism than I expected.

At Meikles Hotel, where the chatter of street vendors and the noise from mini-bus taxis could be heard at all hours, the staff regaled me with their future plans, each anticipating the end of then-President Robert Mugabe’s iron-fisted regime.

But it was my resident cab driver, Peter, whose hope for his beloved country showed no bounds. As both my driver and tour guide, he expertly steered his chariot — a red 1985 Mazda 323 with large splotches of worn paint across its surface like a spotted animal — through the bustling streets of Harare.

With a firm determination to prove that Zimbabwe would once again rise from its desolate circumstances, and taking into account my short stay confined me to only Harare, he ensured he took me to all of the most

mesmerising spots the city had to offer. A trip to the Lion and Cheetah Park, situated 30 minutes outside the city centre, was indeed a highlight. Seeing Africa’s largest cat up close and personal raised the hairs on my arms, even if Simba (yes, that was his real name) was more interested in catching shuteye than a curious tourist.

But even the King of Beasts was outshone by Tommy, a Galapagos tortoise weighing around half a ton and presumed to be more than 300 years old. Despite his wrinkled face, bucket-sized shell and huge curved arms, he walked with an elegance that defied his supposed age.

From wildlife to wild flowers, Peter then carted me off to the National Botanical Gardens.

Stretching more than seven square kilometres, it boasts lush gardens of exotic trees and plant varietals native to Zimbabwe as well as species from as far as India and South America.

To end off a well-rounded day, I was then treated to nyama, the Shona word for meat, cooked on an open fire. Forget Nando’s, of which Harare boasts one store and where the waitrons speak a high level of Queen’s English that Zimbabweans pride themselves on; a good ol’ braai reminded me of the hospitality and good food of home.

And, like its people believe to be true, that is where Zimbabwe has — and will continue to — prosper: Through its natural beauty, and the dreams and congeniality of its people. There has never been more hope for the nation than now. 

Words: Zaahier Adams

A new hope

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