The Intrepid Explorer - Issue 18 by The Intrepid Explorer

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ROW, ROW, ROW YOUR BOAT

WIN

Braam Malherbe & Wayne Robertson complete their most southern voyage

A two-night bushveld getaway to Mabula Game Lodge, worth

R36 000!

SAVING THE RHINO The war continues in the heart of Kruger

OPEN YOUR EYES AND EARS Close encounters of the wild kind in iSimangaliso

simply epic

Inside Chris Bertish’s solo transatlantic SUP crossing

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› BEARING NORTH – Douglas Drake on his no-end-destination cycle trip through Africa › WIDE BLUE YONDER – The marine wildlife nurseries of the Southern Ocean › WATER WISE – explore4knowledge hosts its first-ever Earth Camp in the Cederberg › YOUNG ADVENTURERS – World Challenge expeditions for high school learners › LIFE THROUGH THE LENS – Shaen Adey’s stunning aerial views of Cape Town

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CONTENTS 12 06 FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

EDITOR’S NOTE

Beat the winter blues

COMPETITION in a two-night bushveld getaway W for two in the malaria-free Waterberg, worth R36 000!

THINGS THAT GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT Jazz Kuschke shares some of the untold stories from Chris Bertish’s epic solo transatlantic stand-up paddleboard crossing

26 INTO THE WIDE BLUE YONDER Graham Howe joins an expedition to the remote islands of the Southern Ocean—home to some of the most important marine wildlife nurseries in the world

BEARING NORTH Follow Douglas Drake’s escapades around the shores of Lake Malawi, on his ‘no end destination’ cycle trip through Africa

40 A WALK IN THE WILD

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

Bryony McCormick spends some uninterrupted time in the iSimangaliso bush with the Wilderness Leadership School— and hears herself again

ON THE CRITICAL EDGE

44 THE BEAUTY OF CONSERVATION

How Braam Malherbe and Wayne Robertson successfully completed the most southern voyage ever undertaken on a rowing boat from South Africa

Janine Avery joined explore4knowledge in the Cederberg as it hosted Miss Earth SA for its first-ever Earth Camp to learn about water conservation in the field

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2 ND ED IT IO N 2017

THINK ON YOUR FEET

Ryan Sandes believes fatherhood and ultra-trail running have certain similarities

SMALL VICTORIES

Editor Robbie Stammers returns to the heart of the Kruger with the SANParks Honorary Rangers and Rhino Tears Wine to see how the war against poaching is progressing

LIFE: THE NEXT BIG ADVENTURE A global learning programme is giving tomorrow’s explorers the skills to go boldly where no one has before, writes Simon Capstick-Dale

70 ON THE WILD SIDE

News from the outdoors

76 HIT THE ROAD, JACK! The Big 5—catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles

80 CAPE UNION MART STORE LISTINGS 81 HOWE TO TRAVEL

WINTER WANDERINGS The temperature’s still dropping. But that shouldn’t stop your hiking and camping activities—the outdoor fun is just getting started!

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LIFE THROUGH THE LENS In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we take a bird’s-eye view of Cape Town with Shaen Adey

Graham Howe joins the colourful and crazy throngs of carnival-goers in Rio de Janeiro, where anything goes

82 THE LAST WORD We do a bit of improv with South African comedian, Dave Levinsohn

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

FO R E WO RD

Greetings, Intrepid Explorers!

think we can all agree that winter is no longer coming—it’s here! With plummeting temperatures come shorter days, and we have fewer hours of daylight to explore our picturesque landscapes. But, in true South African fashion, we make these precious hours count. As author Alfred Wainwright said, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.” As long as we’re geared up, we’ll be prepared for anything! In this edition, we delve into the adventures of our local heroes, tackling both the challenges of the season and some of the country’s foremost environmental issues. Our very own Brand Ambassador, John Lucas from explore4knowledge, recently hosted the Miss Earth South Africa contingent as part of a joint campaign to address the effects our daily lives have on the current water crisis. Meanwhile, editor Robbie Stammers bravely stepped into the heart of the Kruger National Park to witness at first-hand the current war against poaching—an enlightening read. With nothing more than a backpack and an open mind, Bryony McCormick explored the iSimangaliso bush and had close encounters with the hyena kind; while two other brave South Africans tackled 93 days of rowing across the Atlantic from Cape Town Harbour to Rio de Janeiro. At Cape Union Mart, we’re inspired by these South African stories! Adventures come in all shapes and sizes; what’s truly important is that we make the time to have them. We’ll continue celebrating the great adventure called Life, and wish you well on your own explorations. Relish and celebrate each moment—no matter where the road takes you.

Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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E D ITO R ’ S N O TE

BEAT THE

WINTER BLUES

hen it’s still pitch dark outside in the morning and your mood’s dropping as low as the mercury, winter can really become quite a challenge for even the best of us. If you’re starting to feel like nothing but a very full, very strong pot of coffee will get you out of bed, join the club. Holiday bills are high, temperatures are low, and the days are way too short. Some people become so debilitated that it seriously impacts the quality of their life. Seasonal affective disorder, or ‘winter depression’, is biochemical in nature, brought on by the lack of sunshine. It can, in fact, affect most of us, even to a small degree. We can’t all be a Chris Bertish or a Braam Malherbe, facing the elements over 90 days on the cruel ocean, but there are small things we can do to beat the winter blues. So instead of an increase in your weight and a decrease in your workout regime or usual sunny demeanour, here are a few tips for you to get through the cold season and come out smiling: First and foremost, start planning that summer holiday. Research shows that the simple act of planning a vacation causes a significant increase in overall happiness. Plus, visualising yourself on your sunny vacation in your swimming trunks or bikini will motivate you to get out and exercise so that you can have that beach bod in time for summer! For exercise, just force yourself to get out there. A 2005 study from Harvard University suggests walking fast for about 35 minutes a day, five times a week—or 60 minutes a day, three times a week—improves symptoms of mild to moderate winter depression. Exercising under bright lights may be even better for seasonal blues, so go join a gym if you’re not one for walking in the mountains.

While you’re exercising, or even when you’re at your work desk, turn on the tunes. In a 2013 study, researchers showed that listening to upbeat or cheery music significantly improved participants’ mood in both the short- and long term. Remember, you’re the same person in dreary July as you are in sunny December. You can actively choose to flip your script about the colder months and create a joyful and inspired winter season this year. The Intrepid Explorer team wishes you all the best for the winter period. And we certainly hope we get some much-needed rain, especially down here in the Cape. Beat the blues, and in the words of our cover personality for this edition, Chris Bertish: Dream it, See it, Believe it, Achieve it. Enjoy this edition—and keep living the life of adventure!

Robbie Stammers Publishing Editor PS: Don’t forget to like us on Facebook to get access to loads of fresh content, and download the full digital version of this edition with many extras FOR FREE via Google Play and Apple’s App Store.

Congratulations to the winners of our last edition’s competitions! Melissa Bell from Cape Town wins the incredible trip for two to either Jock Safari Lodge or Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, worth over R20 000! Anita Vallabh from Durban and Pravin Natha from Centurion each receive our two Ed’s Book Picks: Dive Sites of South Africa and Mozambique and Two Oceans: A Guide to the Marine Life of Southern Africa!

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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C ONT R IB U TO RS

Live the life of Adventure

› Simon CapstickDale’s love for adventure was born in a mokoro, paddling down the narrow arteries of Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Having documented his adventures in publications ever since, his incurable itch for experiential travel has not abated—along with his obsession for collecting passport stamps. When not boarding the next flight out of Cape Town, Simon prefers to spend his time reading non-fiction, watching hours of sport, and researching prospective travel destinations. Next stop: Vietnam. › Douglas Drake had a previous life in a desk-bound office job. With the hope that there was more to see in life than computer screens, he ditched the desk and set off on a seven-month zigzagging cycle trip through Mozambique, Malawi and Tanzania. He currently finds himself in India, working on a wildlife protection programme. › Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications for more than 25 years. When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm. › Janine Avery has been bitten by the travel bug—badly. Raised by a menagerie of artists, creatives, scientists, researchers, biologists and botanists, she’s a lover of all things travel: from basic tenting with creepy crawlies to lazing in luxury lodges. Dabbling in digital marketing, spreading messages on social media, and taking audiences on a journey through her travel stories rank high on her list of priorities, but her puppies will always remain her first love.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

› Jazz Kuschke is a Garden Route–based fly-fishing bum disguised as a freelance writer and editor. He started his career at Getaway magazine as a photojournalist before joining Men’s Health as features writer. After a stint in the crazy-paced world of sports marketing at Red Bull, Jazz went on the freelance trail in 2011. Adventure sports coverage dominates his main day-to-day— but given half a chance, he’ll turn any assignment into a fishing trip. › Bryony McCormick is a freelance writer and editor from Cape Town with a passion for travel, adventure sports and the outdoors. Her say-yes-now-and-think-about-itlater approach to living has led her to some far-off corners of the world, up treacherously high mountains, through wild countries and along pristine coastlines. Bryony likes animals, her boyfriend, fresh bread covered in butter, and books. Her dream home is a caravan. › Ryan Sandes is a South African trail runner. In 2010, he became the first competitor to win all four of the 4 Deserts races, each a six- to seven-day, 250-kilometre, self-supported footrace through the Atacama Desert in Chile, the Gobi Desert in China, the Sahara Desert in Egypt, and Antarctica. In addition to trail running, he is an active mountain biker, paddler and surfer.

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey@insightspublishing.co.za Chief Sub-Editor TANIA GRIFFIN tania@insightspublishing.co.za Head of Advertising Sales KEITH HILL keith@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Manager KYLE VILLET kyle@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Sales Executive PETER SAVAGE-REID, JACKY VILLET Office Manager SUSAN BALL susan@insightspublishing.co.za Financial Manager LISA-MARIE DE VILLIERS lisa@intrepidexplorer.co.za Social Media Platforms TACITA McEVOY from SocialMediaNow tacita@socialmedianow.com Editorial Contributors Jazz Kuschke, Douglas Drake, Graham Howe, Simon Capstick-Dale, Bryony McCormick, Janine Avery, Ryan Sandes Photography Cover: Craig Kolesky Douglas Drake, Craig Kolesky, Wagner Meier, Graham Howe, Bryony McCormick, Shaen Adey, Brandon Barnard Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer RSA Litho Distribution Cape Union Mart stores MDA Distribution Media Support Services

PUBLISHED BY

CEO, African News Agency (ANA): Grant Fredericks Physical address: 176 Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Websites: www.intrepidexplorer.co.za www.insightspublishing.co.za No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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win big C OMPE T IT I O N

with The Intrepid Explorer and mabula game LODGE

One lucky reader can win a two-night bushveld getaway for two in the malaria-free Waterberg, worth R36 000!

iverse and spectacular animal, bird and plant life await at Mabula Game Lodge. Just two hours from Joburg, in the Waterberg region of the Limpopo province, you can watch the Big Five roam in 12 000 hectares of malaria-free reserve, while enjoying an array of wildlife and adventure activities. Set within indigenous gardens, the lodge accommodation offers a relaxing haven in comfortable thatched-roof suites with luxury finishings. Watch the warthogs from your patio, or escape the African heat in your cosy lounge.

There’s a variety of dining venues such as the candle-lit boma under the twinkling sky, accompanied by spectacular African dance entertainment; and the lodge’s main restaurant, Ko Bojelong, with its range of delectable traditional dishes. Enjoy guided bush walks, horse trails, birding walks, eco adventure trails (quad bikes), dam picnics as well as morning and afternoon safaris in open 4x4 vehicles. There are also a host of additional activities nearby, including hot-air balloon safaris and golf. Or simply relax at the pool or The prize on offer is for two guests sharing for two nights, inclusive of three meals and two game activities, all valued at R36 000. To enter, email the answer to the question below, along with your name and contact details, to susan@insightspublishing.co.za by 20 August 2017. Question: In which region of the Limpopo province is Mabula Game Lodge situated?

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

indulge your senses at the Mabula Spa. This will be one magical wildlife experience you’ll never forget! Visit mabula.com for further details. Terms & conditions • The winner will be notified by telephone or email. • The prize is valued at R36 000. It is not transferable and cannot be converted to cash. • Any extra costs incurred and all additional expenses not mentioned will be for the winner’s own account. • The prize is valid from 1 September 2017 to 31 March 2018. • Accommodation is subject to availability. • The winner is responsible for his/her own transport to and from the lodge.

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We cater for all functions no matter how big or small and we do so much more... Conferences, weddings and events, full catering services

Tel: +27 12 7114002/3 Cell: 082 459 0451 Email: stanley@rensgroup.co.za website: www.poshfunctions.co.za Located within the Dinokeng Big 5 Game Reserve

C HR IS BERTI S H

Jazz Kuschke shares some of the untold stories from Chris Bertish’s solo transatlantic stand-up paddleboard crossing

bump

THINGS THAT GO

IN THE NIGHT

Bah! Grrrrrrghhh… At exactly 04h53 on a pitch-black morning, some two months into his epic SUP journey, Bertish’s board was thumped by a giant great white shark. For the second time in the space of a week. “That sound is just so unmistakably primal.”

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

C HR IS BERTI S H

“E

very single human on this planet has probably had that sensation once or twice in their lives when they’re lying in bed at home, or in a tent, and they hear a very scary sound outside in the middle of the night. You think, If I lie really still, it will just go away. But when, 45 seconds later, you hear the grrrrrrghhh again, you know a very large fish with angry teeth is scraping its skin along the side of your craft, using its taste receptors to see if you could be breakfast.” If that shark had taken even just a small investigatory bite out of the wrong part of Bertish’s purpose-built, 5.5-metre SUP (christened ImpiFish), it would’ve sunk. With no other humans for kilometres and a massive storm raging, it was almost too much for the man who doesn’t believe in the word ‘impossible’. Says Bertish, “A very large fish—that’s hungry—has now taken a second pass at you; that’s terrifying to the nth degree, especially when you’re alone, 2 000 miles [3 200km] from the closest point of land. Few people would understand.”

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

FEAR: THE CONSTANT COMPANION When Bertish stroked into English Harbour on 9 March 2017, he’d been at sea for 93 days. But getting ImpiFish from Morocco to Antigua had taken over five years of meticulous planning and training—five years of listening to unbelievers. Thanks to his presenting sponsor Carrick Wealth, 70% of the total cost had been taken care of. Then came the gruelling mentally and physically draining 93 days to complete the 4 050 nautical mile (7 500km) paddle. He wasn’t entirely alone. Fear was a constant companion. It’s how he dealt with it that’s perhaps more inspiring than the journey itself. That also began long before the first paddle stroke. In the six months prior to his departure, Bertish worked with mental coach David Becker in preparing for every possible situation. “Coming from a sailing and a big-wave surfing background, I’ve always lived by the mantra: ‘Prepare for the worst, hope for the best’,” Bertish explains. “So before I left, I’d gone through pretty much every single scenario in my head. I had gone through how I was going to deal with it when it happened; what solutions I was going to work out and how I was going to process it.” According to Bertish, if you don’t go through that mental preparation stage,

when a situation does arise it becomes overwhelming, because you have to go through the process of unpacking it and dealing with it. “Whereas, if you’ve already ‘dealt’ with it—found solutions and different alternatives to that situation before it happens—and it does happen, you’re not in a state of stress and panic about it and you can deal with it better and far more efficiently to ensure a positive outcome.” What Bertish hadn’t foreseen, however, was the ‘second lightning strike’. Some seven days prior to that predawn double pass (thankfully, the shark did move off after the second bump), he’d had a run-in with another great white. “I’d dealt with a potential encounter with a shark in my mental prep,” he says. “But that second

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Bertish tells of how irritating his beard became during the crossing, and how he tried to hack it into shape many a time. He kept the bulk for a post-journey shoot—then promptly shaved THIS PAGE: He had three backups for each system on board OPPOSITE PAGE: The ImpiFish among the swells (just for size context)

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I had to find ways to distract my mind... I had to develop my own mental reprogramming—which was one of the greatest obstacles of my entire journey. encounter, in the dark, was an absolutely terrifying experience, just because I’d dealt with it earlier and put it out of my head.” That second encounter played on his mind so much that he had to trick himself out of thinking about it. “I’m not going to go into detail, as it’s bad for my mental state,” Bertish wrote about the incident in his captain’s log on 28 February. “I had to find ways to distract my mind to stop focusing on it all the time. I had to develop my own mental reprogramming—which was one of the greatest obstacles of my entire journey.”

PAIN While fear was a constant, pain (amazingly) wasn’t. “After the first seven to 10 days, your body’s sending you every type of pain trigger it can, because it’s basically going, What the hell are you trying to do? My body was saying, You need to stop! You’re

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breaking me! I got every conceivable pain signal across every part of my body, telling me to stop doing it and start resting.” His hands, of course, as the first point of contact, took by far the most abuse. “I taped my hands like a boxer,” says Bertish, “with each finger individually wrapped. Then wore gloves over that. But, no matter how much you prep, you can never prepare your hands for paddling 12 to 18 hours. I was still getting blisters through all of that. That was already in the first three days.” After about 10 days, something astonishing started happening. Bertish reckons his body said: Shit, this guy isn’t going to stop, no matter what signals I send him. He’s just going to carry on and do the same thing every day. So, no matter what I send him, he’s not responding to it so, obviously, I just need to conserve all my signals and everything else and need to focus on survival. “Your body just starts

adapting. After two weeks, I started getting less and less pain signals, and eventually it got to the point where I did literally a full Ironman for 87 or so days of the total 93. That shouldn’t really be possible.”

IT ALMOST DIDN’T HAPPEN AT ALL For 93 days, Bertish paddled between 12 and 15 hours a day. Often more. The physical output saw him burn roughly the same number of calories as an entire Ironman triathlon. Every day, for 93 days. On top of that, he had to deal with countless life-threatening situations and keep himself alive nutrition-wise on freezedried food and only 5.3 litres of water. Most of the longer days—with threehour graveyard shifts deep in the night if conditions allowed—happened in the first 10 days of the expedition when he was working hard to put a gap between him and Africa. “The very stark reality is that I could’ve been shipwrecked halfway down the African coast,” Bertish says of those early days. “I had to create a 50-mile [80km] gap, and the conditions weren’t doing what we were wanting them to do. I’d already gotten an extension to my visa—which is very unusual in Morocco— and the rest of my crew had left.” He managed to get an extension to wait out the unusual weather systems

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C HR IS BERTI S H

(which demasted two yachts that week), but he was given only a week, so he had to leave. “There was no way I could go back and get another [visa extension], so no matter what the weather did, I had to leave. Just not a situation you ever want to be in,” he says. “So I left and the weather wasn’t perfect, but it was as good as it was going to get. Picked the best day.” Bertish paddled out of the port of Agadir at 04h30, after having been hassled and harassed by Customs until 01h30. “I got three hours’ sleep and then left on this incredible journey—with no one there to see me off.” Some 93 days later, after 1 944 000 strokes, he cruised into English Harbour in Antigua, met by a small flotilla including his brothers Conn and Greg. The hardships he had endured were countless; the highs and lows too many to convey. Quite simply, it was the most epic solo journey ever undertaken and has redefined what’s ‘possible’ in adventure. And it’s not over. “Everything you do has consequences,” Bertish says. “I managed to catch all the monkeys at sea [see his captain’s log on www.thesupcrossing.com for his theory of the 12 Monkeys], but now I’ve come back to land and there’s a whole new jungle of monkeys that have jumped on my back.” For the man who uses the word ‘impossible’ as fuel, the great irony is that the challenges and pressures he has faced since he’s finished have almost been insurmountable. “I’ve been mentally changed. I was in such an extreme state of anxiety and stress for such an extended period of time that it has actually carved

ON THE PAGE AND ON THE SCREEN Stoked! is the true story of Chris Bertish’s personal quest to prove to himself that he was one of the best in the ‘big-wave brotherhood’. It climaxes with his becoming the Mavericks Champion in the biggest waves in competitive surfing history. With his infectious enthusiasm, Bertish tells how he pulled off death-defying antics time and

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BATTLE BY THE NUMBERS 4 050 nautical miles 2 234 hours 1 944 000 6 metres 612 kilogrammes 70.8 kilometres 5.3 litres

Total distance travelled Total time taken Number of paddle strokes Length of ImpiFish Weight of ImpiFish Average distance travelled each day Quantity of water on which Bertish survived

new neural pathways in my brain. It’s almost like someone who’s gone to war.” Bertish has been doing inspiring talks around the country and dealing with five weeks of countless media enquiries since the moment he set foot back in South Africa, and has had no time to deal with the post-traumatic stress as a soldier would. Mentally and physically, he’s pretty beaten up. “I have complete adrenal fatigue; I’ve been to the chiropractor four times; for acupuncture, like, eight times. I was on a vitamin C drip. I have to go for surgery on my shoulder in the next couple of months. I’m working on mending many relationships on every level of my life, as people don’t realise how much a project of this nature affects everything.” If he’d known what he knows now, would he do it again? “For the impact it’s made on millions of people’s lives and the monies raised for charity—of course!” So, then, what’s next for Chris Bertish? “For the next two years, my focus will be on delivering inspiring talks to corporates and working on my new book and film on the epic adventure. After that, I’ll be planning my 2020/21 around-the-world trip, which will impact the lives of millions. Everything is a natural progression; every task and

again, overcame overwhelming obstacles and fears, and parried every blow that fate dealt him—all without ever losing faith or focus on his dreams. Signed copies are available to order on ChrisBertish.com In 2015, Bertish released his film Ocean Driven—The Chris Bertish Story:

adventure that I set out to achieve takes me a step further, as I’ve realised that one’s potential is truly limitless as to what’s possible—if you put in the correct planning and preparation, believe in yourself, and have the courage to try.” Learn more about Bertish’s adventures and causes on ChrisBertish.com.

MAKING A DIFFERENCE Bertish is an ambassador for The Lunchbox Fund, Operation Smile and the Signature of Hope Trust. These initiatives are close to his heart, as they positively impact South Africa and defeat countless obstacles by providing lunches to vulnerable children; performing cleft-lip and cleft-palate operations; and building schools in underprivileged areas, respectively. Bertish believes education is a basic need, as growing and challenging yourself is a non-negotiable. Building schools is one step in the right direction. Signature of Hope will create recurring income for beneficiaries through an annuity fund managed by Carrick Wealth.

a documentary in the same vein as Stoked!. With commentary from Kelly Slater, Greg Long, Mark Healy, Clark Abbey, Gary Linden, Carlos Burle and other surfing greats, this inspiring story of one humble man’s journey to big-wave stardom will redefine the way you reach for your own dreams—be they on land or in the water. See www.oceandrivenfilm.com

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D O UG L AS D RA K E

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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DO UGL AS D RAK E

Douglas Drake shares his escapades around the shores of Lake Malawi, on his ‘no end destination’ cycle trip through Africa

Bearing

NORTH Seven months into my zigzagging journey, I’d already pedalled into a number of adventures. The latest was a beautiful ride (with help from a few boats) along the remote northeastern shore of Lake Malawi: from northern Mozambique to Mbeya, Tanzania.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

D O UG L AS D RA K E

crystal-clear view across a glistening Lake Malawi, and just the right amount of cloud—it was going to be another beautiful lake sunset. The MV Chambo, chugging into the distance, had dropped me at its last stop—Wikihi, Mozambique—on the wild and remote northeastern shores of Lago Niassa (its name changes in each country). Perhaps 200 locals—fisherman, wives and children—had been waiting for their weekly delivery from the outside world. Clipping the panniers on my bike, I could feel all 400 eyes on me. I had no pre-planned route, just a bearing to head north, keeping the great lake on my left and the intimidating Livingstone Mountains on my right, inspired by David Livingstone himself (though he actually went south around the lake due to violent tribes in the northeast) and more recent tales of the area’s rugged beauty. Having been stationary and too comfortable for a few months, it was surreal to suddenly be dropped off alone in such a remote location. Finding somewhere quiet to pitch my tent for the night would be tricky. “Mzungu [white man], what are you doing here?” I heard in broken English. Turning around, I saw a middle-aged man with a beaming smile. His name was Joseph, in Wikihi on business: buying shoes on the Malawi mainland and selling them to remote villagers in Mozambique. He had a sister who lived just through the maize fields, and would host me for the night. Perfect. The next morning after a quick coffee, while various villagers took my bike for a spin, we started the 10km walk to the Tanzanian border, pushing, pulling and lifting the bike through rough and narrow tracks. To my astonishment, Joseph said there was a Mozambican officer at the border—which would be an issue, given I was coming from Malawi and didn’t have a Mozambique visa. But apparently, he ‘liked money’. Reluctantly, I approached a well-dressed man (Ralph Lauren shirt, strong smell of aftershave), wondering whom he must’ve annoyed to be located there. Joseph did the talking, concluding with: “Douglas, this officer wants to help you, and 200 meticais [about $3] will help him do that.” Problem solved. Less than 10m into Tanzania, I had the wind in my hair, riding on a good laterite track, cruising through the 50km to Mamba Bay. The contrast between Tanzania and Mozambique is stark. In Mozambique there’s no road whatsoever, and immediately in Tanzania a reasonable one. First job in Mamba Bay was to get my visa sorted; judging by the four immigration officers in varying degrees of consciousness, slouched in hammocks, it wasn’t a busy place. Local knowledge was vital for the route; no map I’d found showed a road along the lakeshore. So hearing: “My strong advice would be not to go that way” from a well-spoken man in Mamba Bay wasn’t music to my ears. It did convince me to buy some extra bread and water, though.

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DO UGL AS D RAK E

By first light the next morning, I was up and on the road, riding through villages as they woke; cockerels going full bore; women preparing the morning fire; men assessing fishing nets… You could see a beautiful simplicity in life. After a swift 30km of flat road amid beautiful landscapes, there was an issue with the bike’s chain. Luckily, there was a gem of a town (Liuli) just around the corner, the sort of place that makes travelling special; not yet discovered, not yet destroyed. Entering the sole guesthouse there, before I could even mumble Swahili greetings I had a cup of very sweet tea in my hand and was digging into a communal bowl of rice and fish. A metal file and a fair degree of ignorance concluded a bodge job on the bike. The next day was tough, but the chain held up. The rainy season was out in full force, with mud so slippery that you could barely walk, and the Livingstone Mountains more involved than I’d have wished. Views to die for were a constant companion, and kept the legs pumping.

OPENING SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Small village on the banks of the lake, with the foliage of the Livingstone Mountains as backdrop; View on the road to the small village of Liuli; Lone fisherman in a dugout canoe on the lake; My bike was fixed with a metal file and a fair amount of ignorance OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Loading up for the voyage to Lupingi; Trying to cross the Ruhuhu’s burst banks THIS PAGE: The lake is life for the villagers—providing food, water and a transport link to the outside world

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With 74km (and myself ) done for the day, and with a nod to Livingstone, I tried my luck staying at a Christian Mission in Lundu. Two very bemused priests sized up one very dirty, wet and smelly white man and decided to let me stay (sympathy, presumably). A guided tour of the Mission concluded in the dining room with a bottle of Johnnie Walker Black Label which, once dealt with, the good Father felt should be followed by my baptism in Tanzanian beers, so off to the local bar we went. The Ruhuhu River is the largest tributary into Lake Nyasa (Tanzanian name now) and was blocking my route north. Fortunately—for my head, but not my nerves—the Ruhuhu had burst its banks and no boats were risking it the next day. So I spent another night at the Mission, with its stunning 360-degree views of the lake, the Livingstone Mountains and a spewing river. When the waters had calmed, crammed between boxes of soap and bags of maize, and my bicycle perched in front of me, three oarsmen tentatively pushed us into the fast-flowing river. We were heading downstream, and the journey was smooth enough. Manda was the next village and I would need some traveller’s luck: from there, by road, it would be a large inland detour—or with a boat sporadically taking cargo north up the lake. Manda is an area rich in minerals, and legend has it that some Englishman hid a valuable stash there in the colonial days. I only discovered this when five undercover army officers got me acquainted with the police station for a few hours. Eventually, with a quick call to my new friend, Father Johnnie Walker, the confusion was resolved: I really was “just a crazy white man” cycling through. Lady Luck was on my side the next day, however, with a boat

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D O UG L AS D RA K E

My camping spot looking down toward the lake and mountains through which I’d travelled

that was heading north. The captain’s view on cargo was that when water was lapping at the boat’s edges, it was about full. I positioned myself up front with a chicken for company—as well as the local salesman of Pilsner lager. Luck, indeed. The voyage was crazy and brilliant: fish eagles soaring in the mountain thermals; dense broccoli forests clinging to the mountains; vervet monkeys playing on deserted beaches; people falling overboard; incredibly skilful men in dug-out canoes collecting and dropping off passengers; hundreds of tiny villages wedged between the steeply sloping shores and even steeper mountains… The lake is life for the villagers, providing food, water and a transport link to the outside world. After 10 hours on the water, we anchored for the evening at Lupingu, which gives the wonderful impression of being a pirate bay—with cheap alcohol, drunken boatmen, open fires providing light, and ladies lurking in the shadows. A change of boat saw the previous day’s 10m vessel upgraded to a 20m version; still wooden, leaking, overloaded and utterly charming. The only real difference was that the seating—planks laid across the boat—was about 1.5m above the hull, making it feel like a floating birdcage (again I had a chicken for company). On both voyages, we lost the tarpaulin roof to the winds. Lunch stops were great fun. The captain would shout

“chakula!” (kiSwahili for ‘food’) and all 50-odd passengers (myself included) would charge, swing and crawl through the cargo-laden birdcage to go ashore where ladies were selling meals in plastic bags. Matema Beach is at the northern tip of Lake Nyasa—and looking south, it could easily be an ocean in front of you. As the sun was setting, we arrived in stormy conditions, the boat loosely anchored; with each swell, people were bounced from

We anchored for the evening at Lupingu, which gives the wonderful impression of being a pirate bay — with cheap alcohol, drunken boatmen, open fires providing light, and ladies lurking in the shadows.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

the stern toward shore. It’s no wonder Livingstone had two nicknames for this water mass: Lake of Stars (upon observing lights from the lanterns of the fishermen on their boats) and Lake of Storms (after experiencing, like us, the unpredictable and extremely violent gales that sweep through the area). With my kit safely offloaded, there was only one thing to do: cycle north and find a camping spot to view from up high the lake and mountains through which I’d just travelled.

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GR A HA M H OW E

Graham Howe joins an expedition to the remote islands of the Southern Oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; home to some of the most important marine wildlife nurseries in the world

Into the

WIDE

BLUE

YONDER 26

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GRAH AM H OWE

Out on deck, watching the frozen landscape of glaciers and snowy peaks pass by, we’re enthralled by the prospects of a voyage to some of the most remote islands in the world. We’re embarking on an inaugural expedition from Argentina to Cape Town via South Georgia, the Falklands, Tristan da Cunha and Gough.

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e set sail from the remote port of Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world at the very foot of South America. The gateway to Antarctica, this region of Argentina is known as “Tierra del Fuego” (Land of Fire) after the bonfires lit by the Yaghan Indians (also known as the Yámana) along the shores once navigated by explorers such as Ferdinand Magellan, Francis Drake and Captain James Cook. The train to Del Fin del Mundo, the End of the Earth, ends here. A colourful mural in the harbour calls on “English pirates” like me to hand over Las Malvinas (the disputed Falkland Islands), while another sign points to the naval base proclaimed the home of La Armada Argentina. Our sleek ship Le Lyrial glides through the Beagle Channel in the wake of Charles Darwin. Every place name in this island archipelago at the end of the Andes evokes the voyages of legendary navigators from Cape Horn and the Straits of Magellan to the Drake Passage. Ponant, a leading luxury cruise line, is a pioneer of “soft polar expeditions”. Five years ago, I participated in a Ponant expedition to Antarctica which marked the centenary of the 1911–1912 Robert Scott expedition—and one of the highlights of my 30-year career as a travel writer. Now I’m setting off on another expedition to the islands of the Southern Ocean during the centenary of the second Ernest Shackleton expedition of 1914–1917. We are to retrace the great Antarctic explorer’s voyage and visit his grave in South Georgia, one of the most remote British overseas territories. We’re aboard Le Lyrial, one of the new luxury ships in the Ponant line based in Marseilles—specifically built two years ago for small group expeditions to remote destinations from the Arctic, Alaska, Iceland, Greenland and Spitsbergen to Antarctica and the Amazon. We’re

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undertaking the last of 14 annual cruises to the Antarctic during the southern summer (November to March). The longer cruises take place only once a year, like our three-week voyage from Ushuaia to Cape Town. Rounding the long ragged coast of Argentina, we spend a day at sea preparing for our first landings in the Falkland Islands. The safety, eco and biosecurity protocols are very thorough. We’re shown how to decontaminate all our gear before going ashore to ecologically sensitive sites: from our knee-length boots, life jackets and expedition parkas to waterproofs, gloves, beanies and mufflers. We have to vacuum and clean the lot to remove any traces of seeds, soil or contaminants. By the time I’m fully dressed in my warm thermal layers, I feel as bulky as the Michelin Man! A team of eight experienced naturalists give daily mandatory briefings before and after landing at each remote site to our company of 160 passengers from around the globe. Our fearless leader is Dr Florence Kuyper—a Dutch scientist who heads the all-women British team at Port Lockroy in Antarctica—assisted by a multinational team of polar experts in flora and fauna, marine mammals, seabirds, geopolitics and climate change. They enrich the voyage with fascinating lectures on the secret sex life of penguins and elephant seals, the breeding and migration patterns of the albatross, and the dangers of global warming, overfishing and pollution of the sea. The naturalists erect red flags to mark off a path at each landing site, and guide passengers ashore. We make 12 landings during the cruise, boarding Zodiacs (small rubber boats for 10 to 12 passengers) at the stern of Le Lyrial before landing at remote penguin rookeries, albatross nurseries, as well as colonies for elephant seals, sea lions and fur seals. We tread lightly, observing the environmental protocols of the (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators), from specific encounter distances with marine wildlife to what to do when a penguin lands in your Zodiac. Finally, we’re ready for our first landing. The 11-week war during which Argentina invaded the Falklands in April 1982 put this remote British overseas territory on the global map. The isolated settlement of sheep farmers and fishermen deep in the South Atlantic consists of two main islands (west and east) and hundreds of uninhabited islands some 500 kilometres east of the mainland of Argentina. Most of the 3 150 islanders—called “kelpers”—and a large British military force live around Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. Over the next two days, we explore four of the pristine islands in the West Falklands. Splashing ashore in the surf after landing by Zodiac at Settlement Harbour, where the atmospheric wreck of an old wooden minesweeper lies beached, we meet the Falklanders who are the only residents of the remote settlement of New Island. John Rowland’s wife Charlene is a direct descendant of the original British settlers of the 1830s who came out to the Falklands on what was known as “the King’s shilling”. They run the small museum set in an old stone hut built by Captain Charles Barnard, marooned here by shipwrecked sailors in 1813—and only rescued a year later. Old whale skulls, tools and harpoons remain from the early whaler and sealing days. “Some people find this a little bleak,” says John wryly. No kidding!

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The Falklands flag hangs proudly on the wall decorated with a sheep (they farm 700 000 in the islands—200 sheep per islander) and a tall ship on their coat of arms. They live 240km from the big city of Stanley. The customs officer flies out from Stanley to the remote airstrip to stamp the passports of all passengers, and I bag the first of three new passport stamps bearing a sheep, a penguin and a tall ship. We’re met by a welcoming committee of fierce Antarctic fur seals. Passengers have to shoo off the weaners (young pups) that make zealous mock charges as we come ashore. We’re told to wave our arms around and clap our hands to deter those determined little seal pups. In the middle of nowhere, you wouldn’t want a bite from those gnarly teeth. And don’t be fooled by those cute wide eyes mooning up at you. We keep our distance from all the seals, penguins and seabirds; the summer moulting season makes them miserable and irritable companions. Climbing up a path marked out by red flags to a rookery of black-browed albatross (known locally as “mollymawks”), we spot thousands of chicks nesting in the steep cliffs. Penguins may look ungainly on land, but they sure can scramble up to their

PREVIOUS SPREAD: South Georgia, the gateway to the Antarctic, is home to a breeding population of four species of 6 million penguins THIS PAGE: Graham Howe gets up close with some of the king penguins on Salisbury Plain, South Georgia OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: In Cumberland Bay, we saw the icebergs calved from the Nordenskjöld Glacier; visited the grave of Antarctic explorer Ernest Shackleton at Grytviken; ran the gauntlet with elephant seals moulting in the tussac grass at Salisbury Plain; and spotted caracaras (falcons called “Johnny rooks” by the locals) in the Falkland Islands

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GRAH AM H OWE

high penthouse terraces more athletically than yours truly! The Falklands remind me of the wild Scottish Highlands: The landscape is hilly, with rural grasslands and labyrinths of elevated clumps of tussac where the seals bask in the sun and ambush intruders. We spot the endangered southern rockhopper penguins with their colourful yellow crests, the gentoo penguins and striated caracaras (“Johnny rooks” to the locals). The stench of ammonia and guano in a big penguin colony is quite overwhelming, especially when mum comes ashore and regurgitates the day’s catch down the hungry chicks’ gullets. I find it remarkable how the parents recognise their chicks among a massive nursery of tens of thousands. Each family has a distinct vocal call. The naturalists from the Ponant expedition team identify different species of birds and penguins in the field and interpret their behaviour. The expedition cruise is educational and will appeal to bird spotters, nature lovers and naturalists. Next we sail to the northwest of the Falklands and set anchor at Steeple Jason, a legendary wildlife conservancy that’s home to the largest colony of black-browed albatrosses in the world—110 000 pairs—as well as 60 000 rockhopper penguins (“rockies”). How do they conduct a census?

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We hike to the other side of the island, waddling like a long line of little penguins in bright-red expedition parkas. Curious sea lions float in the giant kelp, and seals mount ambushes on unwary passengers from the great tufts of tussac grass rising from black volcanic soil as fine as coffee grounds. At the BBA (black-browed albatross) rookery, fat, fluffy white-feathered chicks perch on tall clay nests that could’ve been spun on a potter’s wheel. We enjoy watching the comical penguin food chases as hungry chicks chase mum all over the colony, crying out for their meal. The following day we visit two destinations with rather forbidding names: Grave Cove and Carcass Island. On the former (named for the graves of stranded sealers), we meet owners Hugh and Marie-Pol, sailors who used to run yacht charters in the Antarctic before they discovered this isolated place 10 years ago. They swapped life in the fast lane in France for a 3 000-hectare farm in the Falklands (the size of their native Paris) with 5 000 sheep. We spot our first Magellanic penguins here among the gentoos. At Carcass Island, intrepid sheep farmers Rob and Lorraine McGill welcome us to high tea at a remote guesthouse. Their main news is that they’ve had a bad diddle dee and teaberry season (the wild berries that the sheep and the Falklanders like to eat),

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GR A HA M H OW E

FROM LEFT: The hike from the glacial floodplain to Shackleton’s waterfall near Stromness, South Georgia; An old beached whaler with harpoon at Grytviken, the whaling capital of the world in the early 1900s

and that the Falklanders did very well in the World Shearing and Woolhandling Championships this summer. The birdwatchers among us are ecstatic to spot and tick off the endemic and rare Cobb’s wren, the funny flightless steamer duck and tussock birds. They look like any old LBJs (little brown jobs) to me—but then, twitchers are a separate species… It’s another two days at sea on a 1 400km voyage down to South Georgia, one of the world’s great wilderness sanctuaries and home to 80 species of 60 million seabirds, 6 million penguins, and who knows how many fur seals. This archipelago lies within the Antarctic Convergence in the latitudes of the Furious Fifties (a decade I can relate to as I turn 60!). A remote British territory, South Georgia is inhabited by two teams from the British Antarctic Survey and the SG Heritage Trust, living in the isolated settlement of King Edward Point at Grytviken, former whaling capital of the world. Cruising down the coast, we wake up to a spectacular view of the 160 frozen glaciers, deep fjords and high rugged snowy spine of the 170km-long island. In 1834, Darwin wrote of these glaciers: “[T]hey may be likened to great frozen Niagaras; and perhaps these cataracts of blue ice are full as beautiful as the moving ones of water.” Our first call is Grytviken, a haunting ghost town of rusting whale-oil tanks, giant whaling hulks, harpoons and whale butchery. An estimated 500 000 seals and 200 000 whales were slaughtered here from 1904 to 1964. The museum and old whaling station is a chilling reminder of the horrors of whaling, and seems utterly incongruous in a landscape of awe-inspiring natural beauty. Today, the slaughter continues in Canada each year (66 000 annual seal cull), Namibia (90 000 seal cull) and Japan (330 minke whales killed in 2017). The seals we encounter are instinctively aggressive toward human trespassers. Do they remember, I wonder? Coming ashore at Grytviken (named after the whalers’ giant blubber pots), we pass the lonely graveyard of the whalers and sealers who died so far away from home. We’re visiting South Georgia during the centenary of Shackleton’s Trans-Antarctica expedition on his ship, Endurance. I read the poignant epitaph on his tomb by poet Robert Browning: “I hold that a man should strive to the uttermost for his life’s set prize”. Shackleton died here of a heart attack in 1922 on his last quest to circumnavigate the Antarctic, and was buried out of the old Norwegian Lutheran Church (commonly known as the Whalers Church) built in 1913—set against a spiritual backdrop of soaring snowy peaks

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We spend four glorious days exploring South Georgia by sea and land. In Cumberland Bay, we see the magnificent Nordenskjöld Glacier close up on a Zodiac cruise, and spot leopard seals and elephant seals resting on the bright blue icebergs and stony beaches. We hear the mighty crack of icebergs ‘calving’ from the glacier and crashing into the water—and listen to the fizzy bubbles of oxygen escaping from little icebergs called growlers, which resemble frozen swans gliding on the water. Watching the wandering albatrosses soaring in our wake calls to mind Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s epic poem, “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner”: “The ice was here, the ice was there, The ice was all around: It cracked and growled, and roared and howled, Like noises in a swound!” South Georgia is a major breeding sanctuary for many rare and endangered species of migratory seabirds, as well as the 1 million king penguins that breed here every summer. Out on deck, we follow the wandering (snowy) albatross and black-browed albatross soaring on the waves in our wake—along with giant petrels, prion and shearwaters. But the highlights of the Ponant expedition are our landings at Whistle Cove, Stromness and Salisbury Plain. In Fortuna Bay, we hike across the gravel plains of a retreating giant glacier to a massive king penguin rookery. The exotic bright gold, orange, black and white markings of thousands of penguins could’ve been painted by Picasso. Listening to them crying like the wind, and witnessing them shuffling and juggling eggs on their happy feet and tucking the young chicks into the folds of their underbellies is one of the most amazing experiences I’ve had anywhere on Earth. No wildlife documentary can ever capture the sound, smell and sight of raw nature at its most magnificent. We laugh at the huge proboscis-trunk noses of the giant elephant seals lying supine, capsized in the grass. Before heading north on the long fourday sea crossing to Tristan da Cunha, we walk the last stretch of Shackleton’s epic traverse of South Georgia, from a waterfall down to the plains of Stromness in the shadow of the rusty old hulk of another whaling station—a tragic relic of the past. Graham Howe was a guest of Ponant, which operates a modern fleet of four luxury ships on north and south polar expeditions. Itineraries typically vary from 10 to 16 days. See www.ponant.com. For bookings, contact Development Promotions in Johannesburg: 011 463 1170 or www.devprom.co.za.

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Volunteers in Support of SANParks

Rhino Tears range wine donates R15 from every bottle sold to the SANParks Honorary Rangers to be used in the fight against poaching in South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s national parks. To date over R1.2million has been raised for this cause. To purchase Rhino Tears wine, log on to www.rhinotears.co.za It is available in Red and Chenin Blanc. If 20 000 people bought 1 case each they would collectively be donating R1.8 million. Buy a case today for R360 including delivery.

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SANParks Honorary Rangers - Volunteers in Support of SANParks. The proceeds raised by SANParks Honorary Rangers from the sale of Rhino Tears are used to fight Rhino poaching. www.sanparksvolunteers.org

NOT FOR SALE TO PERSONS UNDER THE AGE OF 18.

BR A AM M A LH E RB E

critical

ON THE

Simon Capstick-Dale finds out how Braam Malherbe and Wayne Robertson successfully completed the most southern voyage ever undertaken on a rowing boat from South Africa

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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BRA AM M AL H ER BE

About 2 360 000 pulls was what it took Braam Malherbe and his rowing partner Wayne Robertson to complete the formidable 8Â 100-kilometre South Atlantic crossing from Cape Town to Rio de Janeiro. The indomitable pair spent 92 tumultuous days at sea for a cause close to both their hearts.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

BR A AM M A LH E RB E

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surveyor. But he’s also a boatbuilder, which was the extent of his involvement in this expedition until the 11th hour. “Wayne pulled out all the stops to ensure the boat was expedition-ready, and I’ll be forever grateful to him for making the decision to join me when I was in desperate need of a rowing partner,” says Malherbe. The duo’s Cape to Rio ocean expedition will go down in history as the most southern voyage ever undertaken on a rowing boat from South Africa. Following the perilous route of the Cape to Rio yacht race, Malherbe and Robertson made this taxing transatlantic crossing in their dinky 6.8 x 1.8m vessel Mhondoro, swopping places between cabin and cockpit every two hours. They never, at any stage, had a rescue boat following them; the closest ship, often weeks away, was their only source of possible aid in the case of any emergency. The notoriously erratic weather patterns and dangerous sea currents of the Cape of Storms made the pair’s uncharted southerly crossing a death-defying

expedition that helped remind them of the relentless force of Mother Nature. “Being on the ocean in conditions this extreme was like living on the critical edge—all the time.” For Malherbe, the sensory deprivation of the South Atlantic Ocean was something he wasn’t at all prepared for. While running extreme distances like the Great Wall of China, he had complete sensory overload, with plenty of stimuli to distract him from physical and mental exertion.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Just a few more kilometres to the finish in Rio! THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Malherbe and Robertson digging deep after 8 100km; The loneliness and sleep deprivation were soul-destroying at times; “I couldn’t see anything except for white for most of the time.”

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PHOTOGRAPH WAGNER MEIER

xtreme adventurer, motivational speaker and conservationist Malherbe was on a mission to raise awareness about the vulnerable state of our Planet Earth as well as his DOT (Do One Thing) Challenge: an initiative that asks each resourcedraining human across the globe to make one lifestyle change that will positively impact the sustainability of the only place our children have to live. Malherbe is, of course, no stranger to world-firsts, having been numero uno (along with David Grier) to run the 4 200km-long Great Wall of China, and two years later the entire South African coastline from Namibia to Mozambique. But his latest row from Cape to Rio with Robertson was his maiden ocean adventure. Robertson, on the other hand, has a long-standing bond with the ocean, having been a surfer, skipper and marine

BR A AM M A LH E RB E

Nothing could prepare me for the South Atlantic Ocean: You have water—and the sky, if you’re lucky — and 80% of the time there’s rain in your face. This sensory deprivation is incredibly demoralising. But in Antarctica, “[it] was the first time I experienced the exact opposite. I couldn’t see anything except for white for most of the time, and the wind howled constantly in my ears. But nothing could prepare me for the Atlantic Ocean, which was infinitely worse: You have water—and the sky, if you’re lucky—and 80% of the time there’s rain in your face. This sensory deprivation is incredibly demoralising.” Though the lack of sunny skies didn’t only play hell on the two men’s psyches, but also prevented the functioning of indispensable equipment on the boat. “There often wasn’t adequate sunlight to keep our solar chargers powered, so we couldn’t use the electric desalinator to make drinking water. Instead, we had to use the hand-pump desalinator— which eventually exploded, leaving us in a serious predicament.” Sailing across the Atlantic in such a small rowing boat presents a unique set of challenges: The fact there was only 30 centimetres between their boat’s gunwale and the water was a huge mental barrier to overcome; another more palpable problem was the rowing pair’s lack of visibility to much larger ocean vessels. “It was exhausting having to be so vigilant of our surroundings all the time. We capsized four times, and there were constantly ships bearing down on us that probably didn’t know we were there at all.” In the daytime, Malherbe and Robertson could use their binoculars to spot approaching ships, but at night these weren’t as easily visible, which meant they had to be far more cautious to avoid collisions. “We made contact with other vessels using the AIS [automatic identification system], but often we were already too close to them, and the ships too large, for their course to be diverted.” Stormy conditions, comprising gale-force winds and ineffably rough

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seas, were part and parcel of day-to-day life at sea. Although their small vessel was equipped with a parachute anchor, they often misjudged the size of approaching waves and weren’t able to get it out in time. In these instances, their boat capsized and was submerged for several minutes at a time, which happened on four separate occasions. “Sometimes waves as big as 40 feet [about 12m] would break on us. If we didn’t manage to hold the boat at the correct angle, it would roll and capsize. When this occurs, the boat’s supposed to self-right, but it never did,

so we were left upside-down in the pitch dark with the only light available coming from the instrument panel in the cabin.” With no support team to ensure they were properly fed and rested, the two explorers went from day to day on no more than four hours of sleep. While one man rowed, the other would usually prepare food and drinking water, and help avoid other looming dangers of the open water. “Each of us would usually row for two hours at a time. But if, for instance, one of us was feeling ill or particularly exhausted, then the other might do an

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FINDING YOUR PERFECT HOME

AND PROTECTING

OURS. Proudly supporting Braam Malherbe to raise awareness for our environment. #CapeToRioRow #DOTChallenge

BR A AM M A LH E RB E

JUST DO ONE THING! Malherbe founded the DOT Foundation (www.thedotfoundation.org) to support projects that provide education and assistance in four vital categories: water, waste, energy and conservation; and started the DOT Challenge campaign (www.dotchallenge.org) to highlight the importance of Doing One Thing for the planet on a daily basis. Download the DOT app and make your commitment today.

extra hour—though there was always plenty of work to do when you weren’t paddling, too.” At the start of their expedition, Malherbe and his rowing partner had three separate devices that allowed them to make regular contact with family and friends, who also kept the DOT website updated so that fans and followers could track the progress of their expedition. But after just a few weeks at sea, technical failures left them with only their emergency satellite telephone as means of communication. “When everything starts to go wrong—and it certainly did on this expedition—it’s easy to lose your cool. Although Wayne and I got angry with each other at times, we never once had an argument in 92 days. I think we both knew that without each other, we wouldn’t make it to dry land.” Because of the high-pressure cell in the mid-South Atlantic, the two-man team continuously had to manoeuvre themselves toward the northern region

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and allow the easterly winds to assist their passage to Rio. “The scary part was that if we found ourselves too far south, we would hit the doldrums—but rowing too far north, as we did for the last few days, the westerly winds slowed our progress. In truth, we started this expedition too late: The seasons were already changing, which made it much tougher.” Since their safe return home on 9 May 2017, Malherbe has been preparing for a countrywide roadshow where he plans to get as many South Africans as possible committed to Doing One Thing for the planet, tracking their progress and sharing it with the world. “The DOT smartphone app makes it easy for people to participate in the DOT Challenge and encourage those around them to do the same.” He believes that, as the only species able to make conscious decisions about our lives, humans can choose to be either an asset or liability to the Earth. “Our planet is just a dot in the universe and we are

The hero’s welcome we received was unexpected— and humbling

mere dots on our planet, but if we all just Do One Thing, we can make a monumental difference. “In the near future, when I embark with my team on one final 38 000km expedition around the Tropic of Capricorn, I want 1 billion people to be Doing One Thing—and that, categorically, will change the world.”

ECO-WARRIOR Dedicated husband and father to a 6-year-old daughter, Wayne Robertson got his sea legs at a young age, having been a surfer and working as a skipper, marine surveyor and boatbuilder. He’s also a passionate eco-warrior, and launched the DOT Challenge with Malherbe to raise global awareness around the importance of biodiversity and conserving our planet for future generations. See www.waynerobertsonyachts.co.za.

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WANTING TO TRAVEL FROM CAPE TOWN TO RIO DE JANEIRO BUT CANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T TAKE 3 MONTHS OFF? XL TRAVEL CAN GET YOU THERE... A TAD FASTER AND A WHOLE LOT EASIER! CONGRATULATIONS BRAAM & WAYNE FOR LIVING LIFE BEYOND THE ORDINARY Braam Malherbe & Wayne Robertson rowed across the Southern Atlantic from Cape Town to Rio de Janeiro, the most southern rowing expedition ever undertaken in South Africa. It took 92 days & over 2 million strokes to travel the 8,100km

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TRAVEL BEYOND THE ORDINARY

BR YO N Y M C CO RM I CK

awalk

in the

wild

Bryony McCormick spends some uninterrupted time in the iSimangaliso bush with the Wilderness Leadership School— and hears herself again

On the Wilderness Trail, you literally walk away from all technology and home comforts into the heart of the bush, surrounded by dangerous and small game, with nothing but what you can fit into your backpack, plus two armed guides—and an open mind. The result: one-on-one interactions with hyenas at 3 a.m.

’ve never been good at making fires, and I wasn’t sure what was making me more nervous: the fact that I had to keep the campfire burning, or the fact I had to keep watch over my sleeping trail companions from dangerous game, on my own, for an hour—during the darkest and creepiest part of the night. I got up off the log on which I’d been perched, and wandered a few metres away from the camp to scan the horizon for, as the guides put it, “anything big”. By that stage, I’d been on watch for about 45 minutes and nothing but a few nightjars had popped by, so you can imagine my surprise (panic) when, on my second scan of the dark abyss, my torch caught two very bright red eyes staring directly at me, and at a terrifyingly close distance. My heart rate quadrupled and I stumbled backward toward the fire until I was basically standing in it (which, due to my fussing earlier, had become a raging bonfire). I shakily lifted the torch to look for the red eyes, and within seconds spotted them—much closer this time. I ran through the protocol in my head and was reminded of Mandla’s strict instructions not to wake him for

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anything unnecessary, and in my panicked state agonised over whether this was dangerous or not. Obviously, by then I’d settled on the fact it was a savage lion looking for dinner, but I knew I had to be sure before waking the snoring guide. For the third time, I lifted the torch and found the red eyes, thankfully in the same spot, and this time I held my beam. I’d taken a few steps out of the roaring fire by that point, too, mostly because my slops had started melting, and I realised the animal wasn’t too fazed about me. With a tiny bit of confidence restored, I gave the beast of the night a good look. He didn’t give me much time, though, getting irritated with the torch and moving on. He started running, and in an instant I recognised his stooped gait and Quasimodo silhouette as a hyena. He limped away, as only a hyena can, and I followed him with my torch until he was out of sight. I waited for a few seconds, hearing him laugh in the distance, before I settled back onto my log and turned off the torch. My heart was still racing, my adrenaline flowing, my cheeks flushed (and I think my pyjamas singed), but I couldn’t believe what had

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BRYO N Y M C C O RM I CK

You’ll notice the hippos grunting in the nearby lake, the scuttle of the bark spiders as they choose their night’s real estate, the evening call of the hadedas as they head home to roost. just happened. My shift came to an end and I put the kettle on the fire to boil for the next in line before settling into my bush bed (a ground mat and sleeping bag combo underneath a mosquito net attached to the umdoni tree under which we were sleeping). The sounds of hippo grunting acted as a lullaby, and the last thing I remember before dropping off was watching some kind of creepycrawly make its way up along the outside of the mozzie net… The Wilderness Leadership School offers students and adults a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in the wilderness, and has been doing so for 60 years. Founded by Dr Ian Player more than half a century ago, the conservation non-governmental organisation is about so much more than intimate game sightings, though, which I came to realise on our second afternoon at our makeshift umdoni tree campsite. We’d been up early and managed a 12-kilometre out-andback hike to the gorgeous Tewate Bay on the western shores of

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iSimangaliso. We’d shared our walk with a lone brown spotted hyena, warthog and some relaxed hippo, and stumbled upon what appeared to be the N2 for dung beetles. Breakfast was spent at the lake, watching hippos and crocodiles bask in the morning sun, before heading back to camp. By the time we’d got back, temperatures were blistering and the humidity stifling— I swear, even our food bags hanging in the tree were sweating. The two guides settled under the shade and, because of the obvious threat of dangerous game, my fellow trailists and I simply had to follow suit. After an hour of doing nothing (bar sitting, listening and observing), two of the trailists were beside themselves. They simply couldn’t keep still, and I found their behaviour fascinating—and a clear indication of how, in this modern day and age, we busy ourselves to the extent that we cannot cope without the constant distractions and stimuli.

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I drifted off and awoke about half an hour later to a sky streaked with pink and purple watercolours. I was lying in the long grass, creating shapes in the candyfloss clouds, when I realised I couldn’t remember when last I’d done so. Even my weekends seem too full these days. I thought about the past 24 hours and how my life had ground down to a slower pace, almost a halt, and how my time was filled by such simple but rewarding tasks: starting a fire with a flint, finding a campsite in the middle of the bush, doing my first night watch, cooking and preparing food, falling asleep under the stars, walking into a bark spider when tiptoeing to the loo and, my fondest memory, hunting for amabhonsi (delicious orange fruits) with Mandla the afternoon before. I felt a smile forming on my face as I remembered the enormous smile on his at the discovery of so many of these sweet and juicy fruits, and I quietly mused over the happiness that such a simple discovery could bring. I once again questioned why we complicate our lives so much, and set about figuring out how I’d be able to take this simple lifestyle back with me into my reality. And that’s what the Wilderness Trail is all about. Sure, you get to experience unbelievable animal sightings, like accidentally stumbling into three ‘dagga boys’ (group of bachelor buffalo) on foot, but something else is going to happen, too: The uninterrupted time in the bush will slowly start to silence the need for technology and day-to-day distractions. Cloud gazing will replace Facebook surfing. The silence will grow and stretch

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over you; it’ll creep up from behind until you blink, open your eyes and realise you can hear again. You’ll notice the hippos grunting in the nearby lake, the scuttle of the bark spiders as they choose their night’s real estate, the evening call of the hadedas as they head home to roost. It’s when you can hear the distant whooping laugh of a hyena, or the gentle snapping of twigs in the forest as something ‘bigger’ finds a bed for the night, that you’ll be able to hear the most important thing— your inner thoughts. And that’s precisely when the magic of the Wilderness Trail and bush happens; that moment you can hear yourself again.

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT: Armed with rifles and an extensive knowledge of the bush, wild animals and the terrain, veteran rangers Mandla Mkhwanazi and Mandla Buthelezi lead our group deep into iSimangaliso in search of a campsite for the night; A yawning hippo skull surprises us through the hazy February morning heat on our hike to Tewate Bay THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Daryl Parker carefully prepares veggies for dinner with her trusty Leatherman; Fiona McIntosh and Shaen Adey on fire duty, learning how to light a fire using only a flint and a sense of humour; Our simple yet glorious campsite under an umdoni tree OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Brunch at Tewate Bay overlooking countless ninja crocodiles and a few-days-old baby hippo with its mom; Hippo spoor and size-6 takkies—always great to get some perspective; A dung beetle rolls his piece of real estate toward the beetle highway

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BRYO N Y M C C O RM I CK

Only then, when the quiet overrides everything else, can you really listen to yourself. “The wilderness is the place one goes to explore the ‘wild’ within,” says Cherryl Curry, CEO of the Wilderness Leadership School. These days, the opportunity to do so rarely exists, as we surround ourselves with clutter and chaos.

QUICK FACTS › WHERE? Wilderness Trails are offered in the following parks: • iSimangaliso Wetland Park, KZN • iMfolozi Game Reserve, KZN • Drakensberg • Wild Coast, Eastern Cape • Pilanesberg National Park, North West • Okavango Delta, Botswana › WHO? The trails are suited to anyone of any age, and will be tailored to specific groups and fitness levels of trailists.

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Time in the bush and sharing your days with animals in their natural habitat will offer you just that: a chance to revisit your mind and hopefully afford you a chance to think about changes and a lifestyle that will not only benefit you but make a positive impact on how you move forward.

While the terrain is varied regarding the walks, it’s not terribly demanding and thus most ages can enjoy the experience. Each Wilderness Trail has two experienced, armed guides. They are trained to ensure the safety of trailists, including encounters with wildlife such as rhino, lions, elephants, buffalo and other animals when on foot. › HOW MUCH? A Wilderness Trail of four nights and five days (with a minimum of six people) will cost R9 320 per adult and R7 200 per student. (Costs correct at time of print, and are for South Africans only.)

Included in these costs are: • Two experienced guides • All camping equipment: ground sheets, foam mattress, sleeping bags and rucksacks, cooking utensils, eating utensils, toilet paper, spade and water bottles • Three meals a day •T ransport from a designated meeting place to the wilderness area •A basic first-aid kit ›W HEN? Sign up for a trail in iSimangaliso between March through to November. For more information, go to wildernesstrails.org.za.

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E X PLOR E4 K N OW L E D G E

Janine Avery joined explore4knowledge in the Cederberg as it hosted Miss Earth SA for its firstever Earth Camp to learn about water conservation in the field

the

beauty of conservation If you were at Beaverlac campsite at the end of April, you might have seen some gorgeous girls behind the wheels of explore4knowledge’s dirt-covered Land Rovers. These beauties were there for a weekend focused on understanding the impact our daily lives can have on our water sources and environment.

s the Cederberg Mountain range bends and folds, emerging from the dusty farmlands that surround it, a number of spider-legged river systems cut through the iconic orange-hued rock faces, forming what I like to call “Valleys of Happiness”. Here, where wind-beaten mountainside gives way to rivers, you find

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pockets of pure bliss with shimmering rock pools, cascading waterfalls, flat winding rivers, totem pole–like rock formations, and endless caves and rock paintings just waiting to be explored. It was one of these valleys to which I headed recently to participate in an explore4knowledge award-winning Water Action Weekend

with the contestants and previous winners of Miss Earth South Africa. Water Action Weekend is a registered programme managed and funded by sponsors, under which the Earth Camp concept— specifically designed for Miss Earth—falls. Led by John Lucas of explore4knowledge, a proud Cape Union Mart Ambassador, we

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EXP LO RE4KN OW L EDG E

OPPOSITE PAGE: Proudly sponsored by Land Rover N1 City, explore4knowledge’s convoy of Discovery 4’s makes its way into the southern Cederberg THIS PAGE: While Lucas sets up the drone to capture stills of the catchment area, Ilzé SaundersBuys (Miss Earth SA 2014) and Catherine Constantinides (director of Miss Earth SA) take the opportunity to pose atop the bonnet of the Educational Expeditions Range Rover Vogue

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spent the weekend off the beaten trail carved by the Rattle River where many go to frolic by the rock pools. We, however, made our way into the private nature reserve that sits on the Beaverlac property and which is normally only reachable on foot. Lucas had organised a special permit for the weekend, and we bumped and ground our way along

in our 4x4s sponsored by Land Rover N1 City, following the path of the Olifants River. When we reached a river crossing, it was time for the girls of Miss Earth South Africa to kick off their shoes and roll up their sleeves for some life lessons about water and this exquisite valley in which we found ourselves.

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E X PLOR E4 K N OW L E D G E

In the hours that followed, I saw magnificent ladies dissolve into playful children with a miniSASS (Stream Assessment Scoring System) activity that saw us wading through the coffeecoloured liquid of the Olifants in search of whatever insects we could find. With the help of a simple chart system, we were quickly able to equate the insects we

women to make a real, impactful difference in their communities through environmental initiatives. Their campaign, #WasteStopsWithMe, has been at the forefront of their mind for the last two years and encourages everyone to be a conscious citizen, aware of our carbon footprints. They aim to engage communities in active clean-ups and

introduced us to the world of seafood, sustainable fishing and moerkoffie. As a WWF SASSI ambassador, Grundlingh is a shining example of the programme that aims to create sustainable awareness in consumers regarding seafood. As he created dish after delicious dish on the fire (from spinach and feta braai pies to homemade potbrood and malva pudding),

found in the river with a score that indicated how healthy the river was. This is important information that explore4knowledge feeds back as part of a citizen science initiative, leading to a better understanding of South Africa’s waterways. After learning about how indiscriminate farming, pollution and misuse of our precious water systems are harming the health of our rivers, these valleys of happiness didn’t look so vibrant anymore. With waste entering our river systems at an alarming rate, and with the water situation in the Cape as dire as it is, we suddenly understood the effect each little choice we make in our daily lives can have on the environment. And it’s this notion—that each of us can make a difference—that has been the driving force behind Miss Earth South Africa. Don’t be fooled by the name or by the stunning good looks of the girls. Miss Earth is far from a beauty pageant; you won’t find swimwear competitions or talent shows here. Miss Earth is a leadership programme that’s empowering young

workshops, and the weekend in the Cederberg gave the girls the building blocks they needed to take the message far and wide. Back at camp, and seated around a roaring fire, John Grundlingh—who makes up one half of Weskus ANNAS, the duo that won the 2015 Ultimate Braai Master title—

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Overlooking one of the rock pools, Lucas explained the importance of rock formations as ‘bass barriers’ and maintaining indigenous fish species populations; Water does not come from a tap! The Miss Earth ladies join Lucas in drinking directly from the stream; Without the support of Land Rover N1 City, it would not have been possible for explore4knowledge to reach 15 000 kids across the wilderness of southern Africa since 2013

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EXP LO RE4KN OW L EDG E

man’s desire to turn wetlands into space for orchards or redirect the rivers for use in farming and industry is more harmful to the entire ecosystem than we could ever imagine.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Nolo and Ilzé enthusiastically navigating the gravel, sand and mud sections of the Olifants River low-water crossing, collecting insects to determine river health through miniSASS; Jumping for joy after navigating mountain passes behind the wheel of a Land Rover for the first time in their lives; Thank you to everyone who made this weekend possible, and to the ladies of Miss Earth for allowing explore4knowledge to host them on its Earth Camp

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he regaled us with tales of sustainable fishing and proudly served up tuna that he had caught with his own two hands. But the cherry on top was learning some old expedition tricks from Lucas, such as how a few blazing coals thrown casually into an aluminium pot filled with coffee and boiling water can act like a filter—ensuring

the plunger is no longer a necessary item on the list of camping equipment! Then it was time for a sunset hike up to the waterfall where a few of us jumped and squealed into the cool waters below, while others marvelled at the wetland system that’s so often taken for granted in our modern lives. Lucas continued his weekend of water education, explaining how wetlands act as natural catchment areas for pollution and chemicals in river systems—but man’s desire to build over them, turn them into space for orchards or redirect the rivers for use in farming and industry is more harmful to the entire ecosystem than we could ever imagine. As the Cederberg turned ablaze with the setting sun, we were each left to our own thoughts; a weekend of fun and adventure made us realise just how big a footprint we all leave behind. For further details, visit www.explore4knowledge.com, www.educationalexpeditions.co.za and www.missearthsa.co.za.

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R HINO T E A RS

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

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RH IN O T EARS

small victories

Robbie Stammers returns to the heart of the Kruger with the SANParks Honorary Rangers and Rhino Tears Wine to see how the war against poaching is progressing

Two years ago, I was one of the privileged few to join South African National Parks rangers for two nights and three days camping in the middle of the Kruger National Park. This time I was invited back to see how things had progressed on the poaching frontline.

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s before, we were met by John Turner, the effervescent and extremely dedicated chairperson of SANParks Honorary Rangers, and set off for Mokhololo Bush Camp—our erected campsite in the middle of the bush, with no fences. This is something very few people get to experience in the Kruger Park: meals under the stars, completely surrounded by the calls and sounds of the open bush. And I was getting to do it all over again! As many know, gram for gram rhino horn has become the most expensive commodity on the planet—outstripping gold, diamonds and platinum. The epicentre of the battle is Kruger, with its relatively high number of rhino on a continent where most populations have been decimated. The park has a 400-kilometre border with Mozambique, which is where 80% of the rhino poachers enter. Rhino Tears Wines has raised an impressive R1 million since its launch, to be used in the war against rhino poaching in South Africa’s national parks. The money raised has been paid over directly to SANParks Honorary Rangers, who have used the funds for anti-poaching projects in our parks. The idea for the wine came about when Mount Vernon Estate managing director John Hooper met with Turner and Andre Nel, owner of The Hat & Creek restaurants in Hoedspruit and Phalaborwa. After spending a couple of days with the field rangers at the Kruger Wilderness Experience bush camp in the park, the idea for a wine that could raise money for anti-poaching efforts was developed. “I’ve had an inherent love for wildlife, and as a child we would be fortunate to spend our holidays in the bush, fishing or in remote locations”, says Hooper. “When an opportunity arose to mix work with pleasure, I jumped at the chance to give something back and spend time with good people fighting a worthy cause. Every bottle purchased

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R HINO T E A RS

really makes a difference. The costs of the anti-poaching war are high, and the men and women involved need all they can get against a ruthless enemy. “We have the opportunity to save the rhino from extinction; never has the call been greater or the opportunity more urgent. Thank you to those who’ve helped us reach R1 million in donations,” he adds. Earlier this year, Rhino Tears funds contributed toward the delivery of two John Deere Gator Extreme Terrain Vehicles, valued at R700 000, for anti-poaching operations in the Kruger National Park. Funds also contributed to the delivery of equipment, valued at R1.6 million, to field rangers. This donation included tents, rifle slings, sleeping bags, camping equipment, rifle-cleaning kits, backpacks and various other essential items for use by the rangers in anti-poaching operations. SANParks Honorary Rangers chairperson Louis Lemmer said: “In the war against poachers, rangers have to endure extreme hardships, being away from their families and facing constant dangers from poachers. So, if we as SANParks Honorary Rangers can make a difference, by making their work easier, we are adding to their effectiveness in the bush. The equipment supplied to the field rangers answers that need.” Unite Against Poaching, a non-

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governmental organisation that works with the SANParks Honorary Rangers and SANParks permanent staff, to date has donated R8 million toward anti-poaching measures—including funding the first specialist tracker hound unit in Kruger. On my first visit to Mokhololo, there had been five dogs bought, trained and put into the programme to combat poaching. Since then, specially trained canine (K9) units have reinforced the efforts to combat rhino poaching in the Kruger and beyond. In 2016, for the first time, the number of rhino killed in the national park was less than the year before, while the number of arrests of poachers doubled; K9 units were involved in 90% of these arrests. As the commander of the overall co-ordinated counter-poaching war in the Kruger remarked, “the dogs have been a game changer.” Fifty-three dogs and their handlers are on duty in the park currently. The K9 units are deployed by helicopter, vehicle, and on foot to patrol our national parks and deter, track down and help arrest poachers to protect our wildlife. At the Kruger National Park K9 Centre at Skukuza, canine manager Johan de Beer told us that in the space of a year, the dogs have been responsible for 168 of the 200-odd poaching related arrests in Kruger. “I don’t think we’d be able to do the job

without them.” He adds that this is the largest anti-poaching canine unit in the world. Dogs are mainly acquired from Denel Mechem, Paramount Group and Genesis Canine Group as well as a few other certified companies. Trained, thoroughbred working dogs are not cheap, and typically cost about R50 000 each. Training a handler also costs tens of thousands of rands. Just prior to my first visit, Warren Buffett’s son Howard was taken for dinner by the SA Honorary Rangers to explain what the rhino war is all about. The American philanthropist immediately proceeded to donate $24 million (over R316 million) to SANParks to fund a high-tech campaign against rhino poaching, which he compared to the United States’ war on drugs on its southern border. On this current trip, I got to experience first-hand where some of

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RH IN O T EARS

K9 units are deployed by helicopter, vehicle, and on foot to patrol our national parks and deter, track down and help arrest poachers to protect our wildlife. those proceeds have gone, including an incredible flight over the Kruger in one of four Squirrel helicopters that cost R40 million each. As the Kruger is a strictly civilian no-fly zone, this was a huge honour and experience—watching herds of rhino and elephants darting back and forth below in the bush is something I’ll never forget. And the rhino war? Are we winning? It’s a tough question, as for every poacher who gets caught there are 10 waiting in the wings. Paperwork and court proceedings are long and torturous for the rangers who put their lives and hearts into absolutely every waking hour. A more dedicated and focused team of humans

would be hard to find. Every day and every night, they put themselves on the line for these animals—and it shows. While I’m not allowed to give exact figures, there’s something positive: The number of rhinos poached so far this year, month on month, is much lower than that of 2016, which is really positive. When one sees first-hand how dedicated these rangers are, it gives one some hope that they’re winning small battles each day in the greater war. After the days passed by quickly— with the rangers and K9 units darting and tagging a rhino, and our emotional visit to

LET’S DRINK TO THE ANTIPOACHING EFFORT!

Pinotage grapes, which allows for easy drinking and appeals to all palates. The white is a delightful fruit-driven Chenin Blanc, suitable for enjoying on all occasions. A Sauvignon Blanc will launch soon. Rhino Tears wine sells at around R55 per bottle, and R15 from each sale goes directly to Unite Against Poaching. Wine-lovers can be confident that 100% of the funds raised are used for anti-poaching projects in SANParks.

For his Rhino Tears project, Hooper realised he needed to create a good-quality product that wine lovers around the world would appreciate. An important point to consider, though, was selling a wine that people would buy often and could enjoy immediately, as this would mean more for anti-poaching than a wine that would have to be stored in a cellar for years before drinking. The result is a good red blend made from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and

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the rhino orphan camp in a secret location in the Kruger—we returned to our little piece of heaven in the bush at Mokhololo, drank some Rhino Tears wine and listened to the rangers’ tales that would make most people’s ears burn. It was another truly memorable trip. All at The Intrepid Explorer salute John Turner and his rangers and John Hooper from Rhino Tears for their absolute commitment.

Rhino Tears is available for purchase in major retailers around the country, including Pick n Pay, Makro, Tops and Spar, Fruit & Veg City and major independent retailers. It can also be ordered online on www.mountvernon.co.za or www.sanparksvolunteers.org.

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WOR L D C H A L L E N G E

LIFE: BIG WO RL D C H AL L ENG E

THE NEXT

A global learning programme is giving tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s explorers the skills to go boldly where no one has before, writes Simon Capstick-Dale

ADVENTURE Each year, World Challenge helps teams of high school students lead their own expeditions into Africa, Asia, Europe and Latin America. And from what these youngsters have to say about the experience, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life-changing, for sure.

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tudents from across the globe are introduced to unfamiliar environments where they engage with different cultures as part of a holistic outside-the-classroom learning programme. World Challenge provides education through exploration, a real-life experience for young people, and the opportunity to develop skills and qualities to last a lifetime: leadership, teamwork, problem solving, perseverance, cultural acceptance and empathy. “World Challenge is very different from what many students may experience when they go overseas with their parents, staying in comfy hotels and being transported from A to B. The [World Challenge] expeditions allow them autonomy and freedom to help them build the self-confidence to travel on their own,” says Tamin-Lee Connolly, head of operations for World Challenge South Africa. The World Challenge expeditions aren’t about snapping selfies with friends in front of tourist attractions; they provide a safe environment for young people to test the limits of their comfort zones in a far-off place, while encouraging tenacity and resourcefulness. Students overcome the

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day-to-day trials faced on World Challenge by putting into practice the skills they’ve learnt with their fellow team members in preparation for the expedition—and continue to hone throughout the trip. A group of Rustenburg Girls’ High School students were put under physical and emotional pressure during their trip in 2015 to Malaysia where they faced intense humidity, as well as bees and leeches: “The heat on our three-day trek through the rainforest was indescribable, which made it really tough to stay motivated and carry on. Being in isolation with 11 other girls also put my emotions to the test, but it’s amazing how much you learn about people in these situations,” says 18-yearold Leila Diesel. Just as for older and more experienced explorers who have their heart set on circumnavigating Africa on a bicycle or paddling across the icy Atlantic, research, fundraising, in-depth planning and physical training are all part of getting the students ready for World Challenge, which makes these expeditions tremendously character-building. Preparations for World Challenge begin 12 to 18 months prior to the students’ departure. Under the

guidance of World Challenge staff and selected teachers, students get to grips with their expedition through a series of meetings and tasks related to team building, fitness training and fundraising. Upon arrival in their host country, students draw on their physical ability, intuition, teamwork as well as communication and organisational skills to get around their World Challenge destination. They are put in charge of their itinerary and lead the expedition in their teams after arriving in the country: communicating with foreigners, taking

PREVIOUS SPREAD: (TOP) World Challengers navigating the icy waters of a Norwegian fjord (BOTTOM) Trekking in the Moroccan mountains THIS PAGE, TOP (LEFT TO RIGHT): Camped out in Romania during the trekking phase of their expedition; The high-school adventurers hiking in the highlands of Iceland THIS PAGE, BOTTOM (LEFT TO RIGHT): Negotiating the Hell Fire Pass on the former Thai– Burma Railway; Trekking through the mountainside in Morocco; World Challengers hiking along the water’s edge in Zambia

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WOR L D C H A L L E N G E

LEFT TO RIGHT: The expedition group in Botswana; Doing community work in Malaysia; Students helping with construction in a Mozambican community

World Challenge has given me a taste of what it’s like to travel freely, be enriched by other cultures, and discover qualities within myself that I didn’t know I possessed.”—Angela Mibey public transport and managing their own finances. “As a team, we had to make sure of exactly what we were doing and where we would stay each night. At first I felt completely overwhelmed, and part of me wanted to go straight back home. But by the end of the trip, I had learnt so much and was a completely different person from the one who arrived in Kuala Lumpur,” says Leila. Though most students opt for assistance, for the most diehard explorers World Challenge also offers unsupported treks that require students to carry all their own gear and make provision for meals. Community work forms an equal component alongside adventure on expeditions. World Challenge promotes global citizenship by encouraging students to engage with cultures different from their own as a means of broadening their perspective and developing a more mature worldview. Working in foreign communities also helps students understand first-hand the development challenges of the third world, with many going on to become active members of their communities after returning home.

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“I appreciated World Challenge more than past travel experiences, because I had far more interaction with local people and learnt about diverse cultures,” says Nokukhanya Zondi, another Rustenburg World Challenger who went to Malaysia. Whether it’s undertaking conservation work at a turtle sanctuary on the Perhentian Islands of Malaysia, or assisting communities to build facilities for rural schools in India, students on World Challenge live and work alongside the locals, which offers the opportunity for close learning and cultural exchange. “Helping students become aware of their Western mindset puts the world in a completely different light for them,” comments Connolly. “World Challenge provides the kind of global awareness that can’t be learnt from books. Often students return home after the experience more culturally aware, empathetic and determined to make a difference.” World Challenge offers enormous opportunity for the personal growth and development of students, helping lay the foundations for their future—not only in terms of skills and their careers but by opening their minds to new possibilities

and endorsing a life full of adventure. “I’ve honestly never had a child come back from World Challenge who didn’t say it was the best experience of their life. When these students step outside of their comfort zones in a physical, emotional and cultural sense, they achieve more than they’ve ever dreamt possible,” says Connolly. “World Challenge has given me a taste of what it’s like to travel freely, be enriched by other cultures, and discover qualities within myself that I didn’t know I possessed,” says Angela Mibey, also from Rustenburg. Inspired to broaden her horizons in a foreign country, Leila has used the life-changing experience of World Challenge as a platform for the future: “Going to Malaysia helped me make the decision to travel on my own and work in 2018—and I cannot wait!”

HOW IT WORKS All expeditions are based around adventure and community activities in four phases: Acclimatisation—Students get their heads around their new environment, with an introductory trek or practical task. Trekking—Challengers must use their physical strength and work as a team to reach a beautiful and remote location. Project—Students get involved in community and/or conservation work with World Challenge partners on the ground. Rest & Relaxation—Challengers have the opportunity to unwind and enjoy activities such as visiting ancient temples, zip-lining or white-water rafting. www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

WHETHER YOU’RE A HISTORY BUFF, INTO WALKING, BIRDING OR HORSERIDING, LOOKING FOR A UNIQUE WEDDING OR CONFERENCE VENUE OR AFTER PEACE AND TRANQUILITY LYING AT THE POOL...THIS YEAR-ROUND OASIS CATERS FOR EVERYONE. Easily accessible from Durban, Johannesburg and northern KZN, Isandlwana Lodge is uniquely placed, overlooking the distinctive Isandlwana Rock… scene of the battle between the British and the 24 000-strong Zulu army. With 12 en-suite bedrooms, each with panoramac views of the rural Zululand plains and the famous battlefield site, it is the only private lodge situated in such close proximity to the actual Battlefield.

discover more www.isandlwana.co.za twitter.com/isandlwanalodge facebook.com/isandlwana

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T R AVEL G E A R

The mercury’s still dropping. But that shouldn’t stop your hiking and camping activities—the outdoor fun is just getting started!

winter

wanderings Cape Union Mart’s wide range of winter apparel, footwear and equipment has been designed and tested to ensure you’ll be able to handle any cold-weather conditions. So button up, strap in and zip closed—it’s time to go outside!

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www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

T R AVEL G E A R R1 499

K-WAY MEN’S DRAKE DOWN JACKET Armour-proof yourself against Mother Nature’s worst with this versatile and durable jacket. Lightweight, waterresistant, wind-proof, vapour-permeable— what else could you need? Oh, wait: It also boasts 650-fill power of cold-banishing, hypo-allergenic down. Sorted.

R1 899

K-WAY MEN’S QUARRY FLEECE JACKET K-WAY MEN’S BARNACLE HOODED DOWN JACKET

R599

Perfect for camping, the K-Way Quarry Fleece is made with insulating fabric that conserves heat, yet remains completely breathable. It features a full zip, contrast fleece at the shoulders and arms to provide extra insulation, as well as flat-lock seams at the shoulders and yolk to reduce friction points for comfortable ease of movement.

This no-nonsense, lightweight jacket has been designed to keep you warm and protected from the elements. Besides a 90% white duck-down filling for excellent insulation, the Barnacle is also 100% windproof and vapour-permeable. Its water-resistant coating is perfect for those unexpected drizzles on the trail, while two hand pockets will ensure your digits remain toasty and flexible for when you need to prepare camp. The jacket is highly compressible, so it can easily be packed into the internal stuff bag.

R1 199

R2 199

K-WAY MEN’S FLINT SOFTSHELL Whether you’re hiking, camping, climbing or simply travelling, this softshell jacket will prevent cold air from creeping in with its adjustable hem and elasticated cuffs, while also keeping out the wind and the rain. What’s more, the specially engineered four-way stretch technology allows for flexibility and comfort so that you can run and jump with ease.

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MERRELL MEN’S CHAMELEON 2 FLUX SHOE These boots were made for (trail) walking! Extremely durable and lightweight, tough and grippy, they feature a moulded EVA foot bed for comfort; special Merrell air cushioning in the heel to absorb shock; and a Vibram outsole for incredible traction on both wet and dry surfaces.

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T RAVEL GEA R R1 099

K-WAY WOMEN’S ELSENE HOODY SOFTSHELL

K-WAY WOMEN’S SPRINT SHELL JACKET Breathable, waterproof and windproof, this shell jacket is perfect for cold and rainy weather protection. It features a fixed hood with integrated toggle for volume as well as visor control, enclosed hand-warmer pockets, draw-cord adjustable hem, plus reflective branding to enhance your visibility when the skies turn grey.

Ladies, if you’re going hiking this winter, do yourself a favour and purchase this fleece hoody. Not only is it windproof and water-shedding to withstand the elements but it also has coral fleece for extra warmth; an adjustable hood with visor control and reinforced peak; as well as a baffle behind the zip, elasticated cuffs and an adjustable hem for added protection against the biting cold.

R1 999 HI-TEC MEN’S ALTITUDE 5 WP BOOT A must-have for men who need the highest level of protection for their feet and ankles on their outdoor adventures. It has a double-level layer of water resistance, a waterproof bootie construction, as well as a leather upper with Hi-Tec’s special i-shield hydrophobic layer to further repel water, oil and dirt. Ladies, there’s a pair for you as well, at R1 699.

R1 799 K-WAY ALPINE COWL SLEEPING BAG

R3 899

K-WAY KILIMANJARO 3 THERMASHIFT SLEEPING BAG This sleeping bag has variable channels that allow the down to be shifted horizontally, giving you control over the insulation distribution for a great night’s sleep outdoors. And with its fulllength zipper, plus cowl and neck collar, you’ll be snug as a bug. Seriously, it’s been tested on Kilimanjaro and to Everest Base Camp, so it’s gotta be warm, right? But don’t worry, the bag also has ample ventilation, so you won’t feel like a roast chicken in the oven. Just a note: Although the fabric has a durable water-repellent coating, it’s not recommended for rainy conditions—unless used inside a waterproof, breathable bivy (bivouac) bag.

Even though the Alpine Cowl is actually a three-season bag, it does its best work when the temperature drops. How? Well, it features a contoured hood for even better heat insulation, while the cowl helps to keep your neck and head warm and raise your overall body temperature. But if you find you’re getting too hot, you can open the full-length zipper at both ends, as it has a double slider. There’s also an internal accessories pocket, so you can squirrel away valuables (or hide your midnight snacks).

R999

*All prices in this feature were correct at the time of going to print. www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

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RYAN SANDES WS100 WS10 WS 100 0 2017 7W WINNER IN NNE N R

FUTURE AT PL AY SHOP ONLINE AT: WWW.SALOMONSPORTS.CO.ZA

RYAN S AN DES

think on your feet

Ryan Sandes believes fatherhood and ultra-trail running have certain similarities

It’s amazing how a baby opens your eyes to so many things you previously either took for granted or were completely unaware of. For me, the biggest impact that my young son Max has had on my life is helping me to be more tranquil and really focus on each moment for what it truly is—making me appreciate the simple things in life.

ith this new mindset, I’ve been able to see how my ‘job’ of running ultra-trail marathons has prepared me for fatherhood. Don’t laugh, I know it sounds crazy. How could running 100 miles in any way compare to raising a child? But they have more in common than even I once thought. When running an ultra-trail marathon, your terrain is constantly changing: For five kilometres you may feel like you have everything under control—you can do this! But all of a sudden you go through a bad patch or you get lost. It’s the same with babies. Just when we finally got Max to sleep right through the night, he started teething and we were back to being woken up in the wee hours of the morning. And now that he’s starting to move around on his own, at almost a crawl, you can’t take your eyes off him for a second—whereas before, you knew you could leave him for a moment or two on his own and he’d still be there safe and sound when you returned. You feel like you’re being thrown curveballs all the time,

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so it’s important when running an ultratrail marathon and raising a baby to think on your feet and adapt to each new situation without getting too stressed out. Being a dad has helped me stay calm, relaxed and patient in my day-to-day experiences. It has helped me enjoy and savour each moment and not worry too much about things that still have to happen in the future. For an ultra-trail marathon, it’s really important to be patient. It’s a long distance you’re going to be running, so you can’t get too far ahead of yourself or let yourself start out too fast. It’s important to remember to pace yourself. The races in which I’ve done my best have been the ones where I’d gone in the calmest, taking it one step at a time. Fatherhood and ultra-trail marathons both feel like the end’s a long way off! But both are extremely rewarding at the same time. So many people ask me, “Why the hell do you run 100 miles?” But I suppose you’ll never know the rewarding feeling of completing that distance unless you do it yourself. The same is true of being a dad:

It’s really difficult to explain to someone who doesn’t have a child, how rewarding and fulfilling those precious little beings are in one’s life. In the longer 100-mile races in which you have to run through the night, you don’t get any sleep—and putting one foot in front of the other over 160km is a very hard task indeed, but you do it! Parenting is no different: You either get little to no sleep, or you get very broken sleep. Ultra-trail marathon racing has definitely prepared me for this aspect of parenting. With running, especially over longer distances, you’re on your feet for a long time and constantly on the go. And anyone who has a baby, or has ever just looked after a baby, can attest to the fact that it’s exactly the same. It’s always on the go with babies, especially when they start becoming mobile and active like Max is now. So, if you’ve survived having a baby, maybe you should try your hand at running an ultra-trail marathon— you could be quite good at it!

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A view of Slangkop lighthouse in Kommetjie at dusk, 33m high

LIFE

THROUGH THE

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we showcase the inspiring aerial photography of Shaen Adey

LENS

L IFE T H RO UGH T H E L ENS

haen Adey spent some time working in advertising before moving into conservation, focusing on wildlife photography. Slowly she began following her passion and now, as a Gallo/Getty Images photographer, she has the enviable life of a photojournalist specialising in travel, adventure sports and lifestyle shoots. Shaen has contributed to numerous books as well as national and international magazines including National Geographic. Now she has compiled her own book, Cape Town From Above: a first of its kind, showcasing over 50 elevated views of the Mother City’s most iconic sites.

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Among her other career highlights she counts competing in the Kalahari Augrabies Extreme Marathon, the Desert Knights Mountain Bike Adventure and Expedition Africa; and documenting the Outback in Australia, most of the time solo. Mostly, Shaen says, she’s young at heart and adventurous— and her camera goes along for the ride. Cape Town From Above retails at R260 at book shops or via the MapStudio website: www.mapstudio.co.za.

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L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Three Anchor Bay, with Mouille Point and Green Point in the distance Clifton Beach and Bachelor’s Cove, with Lion’s Head as backdrop

Big Bay, with Table Mountain standing guard Marina Da Gama

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Shark nets being set up in Fish Hoek Kalk Bay harbour and boats

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Surfing in Muizenberg Baden Powell Drive (also known as the R310) on the False Bay coastline, linking Muizenberg to the N2

O UT AN D A B O U T

on the

wild side

Here’s the inside scoop on the outside world! We look at some of the astounding feats accomplished by intrepid explorers young and old; the latest developments and products; as well as events and causes in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So get out there and make the most of the outdoors! Compiled by Robbie Stammers

UNDERWATER

ENCHANTMENT

Immerse yourself in the enchanting world of the Two Oceans Aquarium where the ocean comes alive in a display of magnificent colours and a diversity of shapes and sizes. The aquarium provides a glimpse of life below the surface of the ocean surrounding southern Africa, as well as an ideal indoor space to spend those days when the weather doesn’t play along for outdoor adventure. In 2016, the aquarium opened the I&J Ocean Exhibit. It holds 1.6 million litres of water and boasts a 10-metre long tunnel that affords visitors the opportunity to get up close to the animals in the exhibit. Some of these residents include black musselcracker, striped bonito, a guitarfish, a number of rays, and sea turtles. It’s one of the most perfect dive sites in Cape Town, with great vision all-year round, temperatures between 20 and 24 degrees Celsius, and you only need a Discover Scuba qualification to jump in and get wet. A dedicated shark exhibit housing large ragged-tooth sharks will open in mid-2017. Dive opportunities for those seeking a close encounter with these sleek predators will be on offer. Other ocean experiences are also available and include the chance to meet rockhopper penguins, rays and turtles. The aquarium aims to inspire and empower people to see the connections between their actions on land and the health of the oceans, and to provide practical solutions that it showcases by leading by example. In 2007, the aquarium joined the Heritage Environmental Rating Programme, and last year achieved prestigious Diamond status. This classification is awarded to participants in the Heritage Programme which have maintained Platinum status for five consecutive years and have shown continued improvement in their sustainability journey. The Two Oceans Aquarium is a place where families can spend their time exploring, discovering, having fun, and enriching their knowledge about the ocean. From highly informative signage at the enchanting and mesmerising exhibits, to interactive and entertaining activities and experiences—the aquarium holds magic around every corner. For more information, visit www.aquarium.co.za.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

come join in the greatest

shoal on earth The spectacular Sardine Run lures excited spectators, travellers as well as professional and pop-up fishermen from all over the globe during the KZN South Coast’s sunny winter season. One of the greatest ocean migrations, this natural phenomenon can happen anytime between May and August and sees millions of sardines move from the colder Cape waters to the warmer waters of KZN to breed. Forming a giant shoal up to 15 kilometres long, the Sardine Run can even be seen by satellite. Travelling north, the sardines attract predators including whales, sharks, dolphins and Cape gannets, which prey on them in a feeding frenzy. Dolphins round up the bait balls and then it’s feasting time for a multitude of shark species, game fish like mackerel and tuna, and seabirds. Periodically, sardines are driven into shallow waters to the delight of all, who scoop up the silvery fish in bucket-loads. As Justin Mackrory, CEO of Ugu South Coast Tourism, says: “This mid-year season is rapidly becoming more popular due to great weather and a broad variety of experiences and events to choose from. This is why the South Coast is a favourite for

thousands of South Africans.” The upcoming Sardine Season is set to sizzle, with a number of consumer specials adding great deals to what’s going to be a spectacular, fun-filled, festive time on the South Coast. See www.tourismsouthcoast.co.za for info and the full calendar of events.

luxury on

the high sea The majestic Queen Elizabeth recently docked in Cape Town. Cunard’s newest luxury liner is set to travel to 25 countries in 2018, and will offer guests a chance to experience “a world-class voyage”. This amazing vessel has a guest capacity of 2 081 and a crew of 1 005 who are extremely attentive and promise to deliver great service at the touch of your finger. It stops in Hamburg, New York, San Francisco, Sydney and Hong Kong. There’s something for every palate, as the ship offers a sumptuous dining experience at The Verandah with contemporary French cuisine and a variety of wines to complement your meals. The luxurious interior is breathtaking,

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with the Garden Lounge, a London-inspired sociable room that offers afternoon tea and evening dancing; the Royal Spa with an in-house thermal suite that offers heat therapy to destress and detoxify the body; and, for the sports enthusiasts, a games deck that’s perfect for traditional bowls or tennis. As one would expect, there are also shops (including The Royal Arcade) and galleries, the Queens Room grand ballroom, a pub, music, theatre and dancing and so much more. A night on this illustrious ship, in the Britannia Stateroom, will cost you around R26 367. And if you’d like to up the ante,

the Princess Grill Suite is just for you at about R67 221. The cost of the full 2018 world cruise (122 days) ranges from R230 000 to R1.1 million per person. If you feel like travelling around the world in incredible luxury and you have the money to spend, check out all the packages on whitestar.co.za.

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O UT AN D A B O U T

marathon In the mountainS Fifteen years old and ‘running’ stronger each year, the Kilimanjaro Marathon is one of the most iconic of all African marathons. Mount Kilimanjaro, rising 5 895 metres into the skies above Tanzania, welcomes runners (both competitive and those who have just come for fun) from all over the world to experience the vibe of this beautiful corner of Africa. With the option of a 42.2km full marathon, 21.1km half marathon or a 5km fun run, there’s nothing dull about this racing adventure. The first Kili Marathon was organised in 2002 as an initiative to draw tourism toward Tanzania. A modest group of 300 runners ran the first marathon, which has now grown to attract more than 9 000 participants. The next race will take place on 4 March 2018. While the event has always had its competitive edge, the social atmosphere is definitely not lost along the way. The route, through the town of Moshi and into local coffee plantations and local villages, is lined with enthusiastic locals cheering runners on. Residents come out in their numbers to form part of a festive event that has captivated the region. Whether you run competitively or for fun, the Kilimanjaro Marathon is unquestionably something to include in your travel plans. And it’s set in the perfect location from which to extend to a Tanzanian wildlife safari or beach break on the shores of Zanzibar. See www.kilimanjaromarathon.com.

Have a roaring good time this winter! While kids can’t wait for the winter break to begin, parents foster less happy thoughts about the school holidays. Even though the kids (definitely) won’t mind being glued to their phone screens for two whole weeks without any interruption from a pesky teacher, it’s probably best to force them out of the house every now and then (just in case they develop early onset arthritis of the thumbs). The Lion & Safari Park offers parents the opportunity to bring their kids to a child-friendly environment where they can learn and explore safely. Think of it as an ‘edutaining’ experience for the whole family. Entrance to the park is completely free, and families can enjoy lunch on the deck at the Wetlands restaurant and treat the kids to an ice cream afterward at the Frozen Kingdom. FREE ACTIVITIES Say hello to the small critters at their newly built enclosures: meerkats, banded mongoose, porcupines, ground squirrels and the rock hyrax (commonly known as the dassie). Kids are also welcome to make use of the playground and pay a visit to the bunny park. There are also free guided tours and self-drives for all kids under the age of 12 (valid until 31 August). PAID ACTIVITIES Feed the cheeky giraffes for only R30, and have a look at the cute lion cubs. The self-drive option has been extended so that families can drive on their own time through the lion and wild dog enclosures, as well as the rest of the park.

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TIME TO WIN!

Youngsters, enter the Kids 4 Conservation Competition by drawing a picture of one of the most endangered species in southern Africa, and handing it in at the Lion & Safari Park. You stand a chance to win a family breakaway for four! This prize includes: One night’s stay, including breakfast, at Amanzingwe Lodge in the Magaliesberg—a stone’s throw from the Lion & Safari Park; A boat cruise with the Harties Boat Company; and A full safari tour at the Lion & Safari Park. For more information and a price list of the activities on offer, check out www.lionandsafaripark.com.

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www.wildfrontiers.com

AFRICAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

GIANT LEAP OF FAITH TAKING YOU TO THE HEART OF THE ACTION

reservations@wildfrontiers.com

TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA

O UT AN D A B O U T

A little bit of Optimism goes a long way Cape Town local and big-wave surfer Greg Bertish is all about making a difference. Whether it’s by introducing the Sharkspotters programme to the Mother City to help keep surfers and beachgoers safe in the water, or raising funds by sailing a tiny Optimist sailboat from Cape Hangklip to Langebaan in under eight days, or his most recent undertaking of repainting the Red Cross War Memorial Children’s Hospital— it seems nothing will stop this father of two from believing anything is possible. In an attempt to reach out to children who deal with trauma on a daily basis—from illness or disability to bullying or abuse—Bertish has partnered with Sharkspotters and the Two Oceans Aquarium to launch his latest endeavour, a children’s book titled The Little Optimist. Spurred by his own real Optimist adventure around the coast, the book uses beautiful illustrations by Chip Snaddon of big yachts and a tiny sailing boat to convey the book’s message: that no matter how small and insignificant you may feel, due to whatever challenges you face as a child, you too can achieve great things if you believe in yourself. As a young man, Greg also endured a trauma that would change his life forever. He contracted a life-threatening infection that attacked the valves in his heart, resulting in two open-heart surgeries. He was fortunate to survive the ordeal; however, he remains reliant on daily blood-thinning medication. He says: “This experience taught me that the only way I would overcome my infection was to find the courage to see past the tubes and machines into the future, which meant being optimistic. It’s a very difficult thing to ask someone to do when all they can think about is dying, but having the love and support of those around me is what encouraged me never to give up and give into what I was told I could never achieve due to my infection.” For further details about the book, or to buy your own copy, go to www.thelittleoptimist.org. For each book sold, a copy will be donated to a sick and needy child.

The LionHeart does it again Record-smashing trail runner AJ Calitz has made a spectacular return to the sport by winning the Fisherman’s Friend StrongmanRun in Germany, after having suffered a stroke earlier this year. Having made a career out of conquering mountains, brutal weather conditions, treacherous terrain and tough competitors, the medical incident and its accompanying effects have proven no match for the K-Way–sponsored athlete. The 33-year-old attorney from Melkbosstrand was ecstatic to be back in action, saying: “What a very unexpected win at Fisherman’s Friend StrongmanRun! I’m super-stoked and so grateful to run again!” Calitz’s efforts—on what has been dubbed “the mother of all obstacle courses”—will no doubt help prepare him for his next challenge, the Fish River Canyon Ultra. He shares: “I’ve always loved this race and the amazing vibe that goes with it.” The annual ultra trail race takes place in the world’s second largest canyon and is regarded as an adventure challenge among runners. Competitors are expected to complete either the 100or 60-kilometre course—complicated by thick sand, loose rocks,

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boulders, rock pools and river bends— within 24 hours. This year’s race will be held on 10 June. In 2016, Calitz broke the 6 hours, 57 minutes record (that had held strong since 2012) with his time of 6 hours, 39 minutes and 52 seconds. Other accomplishments under his belt include setting a new Guinness World Record for greatest vertical height stair climbing in 12 hours, winning the Red Bull LionHeart title four years in a row, taking victory in France’s Verdon Canyon Challenge, triumphing in the Three Peaks Challenge, and earning first place in the Hout Bay Trail Challenge. When asked whether he’d try to beat his time at this year’s Fish River Canyon Ultra, Calitz responded with his motto: “I don’t run to win races;I live to conquer mountains.”

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HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K

big

A guided tour of the new, exciting vehicles that have been spotted on our roads recently

Like the Big 5 in the bush, these vehicles have unique characteristics: some may be featured for their strength and speed, and others for their comfort and size.

Enhanced, and more advanced – Renault Clio GT Line Having achieved more than 13 million sales since launching in 1990, the Renault Clio is undoubtedly the world’s all-time bestselling French car—a success story that has continued with the fourth-generation Clio’s launch into more than 100 countries worldwide, making its debut into South Africa in April 2013. As if we needed any further affirmation, the Renault Clio was also the first contender to be awarded the prestigious European Car of the Year accolade on two separate occasions: the Clio 1 in 1991, and in 2006 the Clio 3. The local success of the Clio model range is clearly evident in the 62 600 units sold since introduction in this country. The

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iconic “small car with the big attitude” has demonstrated its infinite popularity through consistently achieving Top 5 performer in its class. Compact and affordable yet oozing style and class, the Clio has won over the hearts of an ever increasing customer base, thanks to its style and versatility as well as through its substantial equipment package. Now, as regular readers will know, I’m not really a Renault fan. I also find parts and services to be on the steep side. But that said, this new Clio is a pocket rocket! Renowned for its dynamic capabilities, the new Clio offers access to highly efficient and technologically advanced

engines. Renault’s new-generation F1-inspired 66kW and 88kW Turbo petrol engines optimise power, performance and driving pleasure, while controlling fuel consumption levels (an impressive 5.3 litres per 100km) and carbon emissions (118g/ km—below the tax threshold). In line with consumer demand, an 88kW Auto engine is also available in the Expression derivative. Even more enthralling is the introduction of the responsive and flexible 1.2 Turbo engine, with notably increased power and higher torque output thanks to the RS input (88kW delivering a remarkable 205Nm). The combination of this impressive engine mated to a 6-speed manual gearbox is a first

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for the Clio range. The sporty little vehicle is capable of a top speed of 199km/h, achieving 0 to 100km in 9 seconds. Smart technology forms part of the DNA of the new Clio GT Line: an integrated 7-inch Touchscreen MediaNav with multifunction capabilities including a useful ECO driving mode, as well as innovative features that enable driving convenience— such as Cruise Control and Speed Limiter. The most stylish Clio yet, the exterior of the new GT Line exudes more personality, and is even more irresistible than before.

It has uniquely designed 17-inch titanium grey alloys, matching door mirrors, titanium grey inserts on side door protectors and boot lid, and distinctive fog light surrounds. In addition, the restyled front bumper with GT Line scoops, sporty rear diffuser and chrome tail piece strongly support the striking new styling. The interior is remarkably roomy with the ability to fit five adults comfortably; while the 60:40 split rear seat configuration offers great versatility and practicality, and the 300-litre boot ample storage space.

As with Renault’s entire range, the new Clio models come standard with a five-year/150 000km mechanical warranty and a six-year anti-corrosion warranty. The Clio range also boasts a standard three-year/45 000km service plan, with service intervals at 15 000km.

Price tags › › › › ›

88kW Turbo GT Line 66kW Turbo Authentique 66kW Turbo Expression 66kW Turbo Dynamique 88kW Turbo EDC Expression

R264 900 R206 900 R226 900 R244 900 R264 900

Lady and the Revamp – Jaguar F-PACE The all-new Jaguar F-PACE performance SUV is now available in South Africa. Designed and engineered to offer the agility, responsiveness and refinement for which all Jaguars are renowned, it combines unrivalled dynamics with everyday versatility. This is a true beauty to behold—and to drive! Developed using Jaguar’s lightweight aluminium architecture, the F-PACE combines purity of line, surface and proportion with F-TYPE–inspired features such as the powerful rear haunches, fender vents and distinctive tail light graphics. The bold front grille and the muscular bonnet hint at the performance potential of engines like the 280kW supercharged V6. Elements such as slender full-LED headlights, forged 22-inch wheels and short front overhang carry the design vision of the C-X17 concept through to production. The wheelbase and track are not shared with any other Jaguar. At 4 731mm long and with a 2 874mm wheelbase, the F-PACE offers the sleek profile and short front overhang characteristic of Jaguar design, together with an exceptionally spacious interior. The vehicle seats five occupants in absolute comfort. Inside you’ll find a perfect blend of premium materials and finishes, exquisite detailing, luxuries (such as heated, electrically reclining rear seats) and cutting-edge technologies including the InControl Touch Pro infotainment system and 12.3-inch HD virtual instrument cluster.

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The 132kW diesel model—including an automatic gearbox and all-wheel drive— achieves carbon emissions of just 139g/km. With the 280kW supercharged V6 petrol engine under its sculpted aluminium bonnet, the F-PACE can accelerate from 0 to 100km/h in just 5.5 seconds, before reaching an electronically limited top speed of 250km/h. Using state-of-the-art computational fluid dynamics simulations and applying lessons learnt from the XE and XF, the F-PACE has a drag co-efficient of only 0.34, helping to reduce fuel consumption and improve refinement. The vehicle is also engineered for exceptionally low lift and excellent lift balance front-torear, resulting in better steering feel and stability at higher speeds. Besides too many other bells and whistles to mention, the F-PACE brings the

world debut of Jaguar’s Activity Key. A waterproof, shockproof wristband with an integrated transponder, this segment-first wearable technology supports active lifestyles because it allows the key fob to be securely locked inside the vehicle and disabled. It works on the same RF frequencies as the other keys; simply hold it in close proximity to the J of the Jaguar lettering on the tailgate to lock and unlock the car. The Activity Key has no battery, so you’ll never have to worry about changing it. I loved the Activity Key, and also the way the F-PACE would automatically sense if there were others cars on the road ahead of me, changing from brights to dims and back again. Boys and their toys!

Price tag › F-PACE Diesel

R776 800

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HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K Electric, but not electrifying – BMW i3 South Africa is slowly but surely catching on to the whole electric car thing. (To be fair, it isn’t like we have the best infrastructure for them yet.) So I was extremely excited to test-drive this vehicle. Firstly, when I switched on the car, I had to check that it really had started! The engine’s quieter than the wings of a butterfly in the Sahara. Inside, it’s spacious and the seats are comfortable. The cabin overall feels like you’ve stepped into the future. The i3 has the edge over conventionally powered models of a comparable size and output in the sprints from 0 to 100km, which it completes in 7.2 seconds, and 0 to 60km/h in 3.7 seconds. With 125kW of power and 250Nm of torque, it’s nippy; that instantaneous torque gets you moving very quickly. The car comes with an eight-year/100 000km battery warranty and two-year vehicle warranty. But while I love the idea of an eco-friendly electric vehicle, the problem is that the range is about 130km (up to a maximum of 160km on the pure electric model), so you’re constantly looking at the gauges to check

when you may need to find a plug point or fill up with some more petrol in the very, very tiny tank. Having to find a power outlet at the end of each workday, or even a socket and extension chord, did strike me as a problem. Furthermore, the car needs eight hours to recharge—with our current escalating electricity rates, this could end up being more of a hindrance than a help. For entertainment value and as a ‘fun run-around’, this Beemer is great. But on a longer trip or for commuters who travel a lot, I don’t think this is going to take off as much as BMW may think. (Then again, with

three kids and a busy travelling itinerary, perhaps I’m not in the target market.) So, until charging stations have been set up countrywide, this type of car won’t work here in South Africa just yet. I see the benefit (by 2050, 70% of the world’s population will live in cities) and BMW is right to jump on the bandwagon, but unfortunately it will be a very long time before the electric vehicle becomes the norm.

Price tags › i3 BEV › i3 REX

R525 000 R595 000

Confident and capable – Hyundai Creta

Hyundai Automotive SA has entered the busy sub-compact SUV market segment with its new Creta, which is set to fill an important slot in the local model range of the South Korean carmaker. And I can tell you that, after having driven this vehicle myself, Hyundai certainly has made a statement of note. The Creta is a very capable, attractive and competitively priced small SUV that will substantially strengthen Hyundai’s arsenal. Based on the evolved Fluidic Sculpture 2.0 design philosophy, the Creta demonstrates all the essential attributes

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

of dynamism, comfort, safety and style. It is one of the toughest and strongest SUVs in its segment, designed with a strong ‘Hive structure’ body shell that ensures high structural strength stability and sturdiness. The vehicle embodies the aggressive stance of an SUV in its own style. The triple-slat chrome radiator grille makes a bold design statement, while the smoothly creased hood lines, projector headlamps integrated with LED positioning lamps, vertical fog lamps, sporty stylish skid plate and dual-tone front bumper enhance the car’s stylish and distinctive SUV character.

The Creta’s belt line along with its sloping roof line bring a sporty and aerodynamic appeal to the side profile. The rear profile shows a stylish dual-layered step-tailgate design with impactful crease lines, and is rounded off nicely with wrap-around rear lights. Roof rails complete the solid SUV appearance and bold styling of the car. These also enable the Creta to carry a variety of practical accessories such as a roofbox or bicycle holders. On the inside, the styling is as striking and attractive. Comfortable seats covered in two-tone full-leather upholstery exude a sense of modernity and a premium feel. Rear seats come with 60:40 split that allows for better flexibility and more storage space. Passengers in the back benefit from convenience features such as rear air vents and rear centre armrest with cup holders. The multifunction steering wheel, with remote controls for the sound system and buttons for the trip computer and system information, is also covered in leather. The centre dashboard console houses the infotainment and satellite navigation system with an 8-inch HD full-colour touchscreen. On this touchscreen, a route

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H IT T H E ROAD, JACK

can be plotted, the sound system’s output can be customised to individual tastes, and it can act as a Mirror-link for an Android cellphone or an iPod music display from an iPhone connected via USB cord. The Creta is driven by a couple of refined, powerful and efficient engines—one a petrol, and the other a turbodiesel—which have been tuned for best performance and high fuel efficiency. The Variable Geometry Turbocharger monitors throttle and changes vane geometry accordingly, which in turn regulates turbo boost pressure for a smooth acceleration and maximum power at low engine revolutions. The range is available in three derivatives: › The Creta 1.6 Executive manual, powered by a 4-cylinder, 1 591cc naturally aspirated petrol engine linked to a 6-speed manual gearbox. This multipoint electronic fuel-injection engine delivers 90kW maximum power at 6 300rpm, and 150Nm maximum torque at 4 850rpm. Fuel consumption measured on a combined test cycle was 7.9 litres per 100km, and its carbon emissions figure is 162g/km. › The Creta 1.6 Executive automatic, using the same 1.6-litre petrol engine coupled with a 6-speed automatic gearbox. With the automatic transmission, the average fuel consumption was measured at 8.4 litres per 100km, and carbon emissions at 173g/km. › The Creta 1.6 Executive CRDi automatic is the flagship version with a 1.6-litre turbodiesel engine that delivers its power to the front wheels via a 6-speed automatic transmission. Maximum power is 94kW at 4 000rpm, with a healthy 260Nm maximum torque delivered at 2 750rpm. It sips fuel very frugally at a measured figure of 7.4 litres per 100km, and carbon emissions were pinned at 156g/km. Included in the recommended retail price is the five-year/150 000km warranty, with Hyundai’s groundbreaking additional two-year/50 000km drivetrain warranty for even more peace of mind. Roadside assistance for five years or 150 000km, and a five-year/90 000km service plan add further value to the package. Service intervals are at 15 000km.

Price tags › 1.6 Executive manual R319 900 › 1.6 Executive automatic R339 900 › 1.6 Executive CRDi automatic R369 900

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Taking it to the next level – KIA Sorento 2.2 CRDi LS KIA Motors South Africa recently expanded its Sorento line-up with the introduction of the 2.2 CRDI LS. The new derivative complements the range’s previous entry point, the Sorento 2.4 LS, by offering the same award-winning design, superior ride comfort and class-leading quality in a package that now also excels in power, frugality and exceptional value for money. And it’s a great drive! The new Sorento 2.2 CRDi LS model combines vast practicality and functionality with the increased power, performance and fuel efficiency of KIA’s renowned 2.2-litre turbodiesel engine, and the convenience of a smoothshifting 6-speed automatic transmission. The model is ideal for growing families, as well as those with active lifestyles who value fuss-free motoring without compromising on space or comfort. KIA’s much-loved 2.2-litre R turbodiesel features the brand’s fourth-generation fuel-injection system for greater fuel economy, performance and engine response, while simultaneously reducing engine noise. An exhaust gas recirculation cooler promotes recirculation of clean, cold, low-pressure exhaust gas to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions and improve fuel efficiency, while an electronic swirl control valve in the intake manifold further reduces emissions by more carefully controlling the intake of oxygen to the combustion chamber. As with all other Sorento models, the 2.2 CRDi LS features a fully independent suspension with MacPherson struts at the front and KIA’s multi-link system, with larger bushes and larger shock absorbers mounted vertically behind the axle line, at the rear. This suspension setup, together with the Sorento’s long wheelbase, ensures a compliant ride

with a more progressive response to bumps in the road, as well as improved body control. Additionally, the Sorento’s driving characteristics can be matched to prevailing driving conditions, thanks to the Drive Mode Select system, activated via a switch on the centre console. ‘Normal’ mode is best suited for dayto-day driving, while ‘Eco’ mode reprograms the shift points of the automatic transmission to achieve optimum fuel economy. Finally, ‘Sport’ mode allows the gearbox to delay shifting and reduces the level of steering assistance for a sportier feel. The new Sorento offers seating for five passengers, as well as a range of comfort and convenience features. An LCD screen, located between two analogue dials in the centre of the instrument binnacle, displays all major trip computer information such as vehicle range and average and instant fuel consumption— all in one place. It also features a radio/ CD/MP3 player, multimedia ports for USB and AUX-in connections, and six speakers around the cabin. Rear seats feature a 40:20:40 split folding function, as well as a vast 660-litre cargo space. The new Sorento 2.2 CRDi LS Auto 5-seater ships as standard with KIA’s innovative five-year/unlimited kilometres warranty, with five-year/unlimited kilometres roadside assistance as well as a five-year/100 000km service plan.

Price tags › 2.2 CRDi LS Auto 5-Seater 995 › 2.2 CRDi LX Auto 5-Seater 995 › 2.2 CRDi EX Auto 7-Seater 995

R489 R582

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R686

STOR E L IS TI N G WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4692 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (021) 982-2000 capegate@capeunionmart.co.za Cavendish Square, Claremont (021) 674-2148 cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Constantia Village (021) 794-0632 constantia@capeunionmart.co.za Gardens Centre (021) 461-9678 gardens@capeunionmart.co.za Mill Square, Stellenbosch (021) 886-4645 stellenbosch@capeunionmart.co.za Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester (023) 347-1484 worcester@capeunionmart.co.za Paarl Mall (021) 863-4138 paarl@capeunionmart.co.za

Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za KWAZULU-NATAL STORES Ballito Junction (032) 586-1626 ballitojunction@capeunionmart.co.za Ballito Lifestyle Centre (032) 586-1464 ballitolifestylecentre@capeunionmart.co.za Boardwalk Inkwazi Centre, Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay (035) 789-0321 boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Galleria Mall, Durban (031) 904-2318 galleria@capeunionmart.co.za Gateway World, Durban (031) 566-5111 gateway@capeunionmart.co.za La Lucia Mall (031) 562-0523 lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (033) 342-0152 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za The Pavilion, Westville (031) 265-1666 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za Watercrest Mall, Durban (031) 763-1489 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za

Somerset Mall (021) 852-7120 somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za

NORTHERN CAPE STORES Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, Kimberley (053) 832-3846 diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za

Tygervalley Shopping Centre (021) 914-1441 tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za

Kalahari Mall, Upington (054) 331-3631 kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za

V&A Waterfront Quay Four (021) 425-4559 quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za

Kathu Village Mall (053) 723-2736 kathu@capeunionmart.co.za

V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari (021) 419-0019 waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za

Kuruman Mall (053) 712-0175 kuruman@capeunionmart.co.za

West Coast Mall, Vredenburg (022) 713-4113 weskus@capeunionmart.co.za

FREE STATE STORES

GARDEN ROUTE Garden Route Mall, George (044) 887-0048 gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za

Goldfields, Welkom (057) 352-3005 goldfields@capeunionmart.co.za Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein (051) 430-0230 lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za

Knysna Mall (044) 382-4653 knysna@capeunionmart.co.za

Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein (051) 444-6060 mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za

Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay (044) 695-2486 mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za

Dihlabeng Mall, Bethlehem (058) 303-1372 dihlabeng@capeunionmart.co.za

Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (018) 293-1788 mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg (014) 537-3651 waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za

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Mall of Africa, Midrand (010) 592-2210 mallofafrica@capeunionmart.co.za Mall of the South, Aspen Hills (011) 682-2361 mallofthesouth@capeunionmart.co.za

Menlyn on Maine (012) 348-4421 menlynonmaine@capeunionmart.co.za LIMPOPO STORES Lephalale Mall (014) 763-1278 lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za

Menlyn Park (012) 368-1015 menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall of the North, Polokwane (015) 265-1067 mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za

Nicolway Bryanston (011) 706-7573 nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za

Tzaneen Lifestyle Centre (015) 307-1002 tzaneen@capeunionmart.co.za

Northgate Shopping Centre (011) 794-1022 northgate@capeunionmart.co.za

OR Tambo International Airport GAUTENG STORES (011) 390-3245 Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 991-3171 River Square Centre, Vereeniging atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za (016) 454-0103 Bedford Centre, Johannesburg riversquare@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 615-3097 Rosebank Mall bedford@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 442-1959 Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 460-5511 Sandton City brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 884-9771 Mall@Carnival, Brakpan sandton@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 915-0470 Springs Mall carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za springs@capeunionmart.co.za Centurion Lifestyle Centre The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene (012) 653-1114 centurionlifestylecentre@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 436-1300 theglen@capeunionmart.co.za Centurion Mall The Grove Mall, Pretoria (012) 663-4111 (012) 807-0642 centurion@capeunionmart.co.za thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark (011) 675-0036 (016) 981-5186 clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za Cradlestone, Krugersdorp Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria (011) 662-1530 (012) 549-4203 cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za Cresta Shopping Centre Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria (011) 478-1913 (012) 997-6960 cresta@capeunionmart.co.za woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za Eastgate Adventure Centre BOTSWANA STORES (011) 622-8788 Gallo, Pick n Pay Centre, Francistown egac@capeunionmart.co.za (+267) 024-10-398 East Rand Mall, Boksburg francistown@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 826-2408 eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za Forest Hill City, Centurion (012) 668-1030 foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za

Fourways Crossing (011) 465-0559 fourwayscrossing@capeunionmart.co.za The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay MPUMALANGA STORES Fourways Mall (044) 533-4030 Hazyview Junction (011) 465-9824 marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 737-3137 fourways@capeunionmart.co.za hazyview@capeunionmart.co.za EASTERN CAPE STORES Greenstone Shopping Centre, Edenvale Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth Highveld Mall, Emalahleni (011) 609-0002 (041) 371-1416 (013) 692-4018 greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za baywest@capeunionmart.co.za highveld@capeunionmart.co.za Heidelberg Mall Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;langa Mall, Nelspruit (016) 341-2031 (042) 293-0005 (013) 742-2281 heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za Hyde Park Corner Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE Middelburg Mall (011) 325-5038 (041) 363-1504 (013) 244-1040 hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za Irene Village Mall Hemmingways Shopping Centre, Riverside Mall, Nelspruit (012) 662-1133 East London (013) 757-0338 irene@capeunionmart.co.za (043) 726-0908 nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za Killarney Mall hemmingways@capeunionmart.co.za Secunda Mall (011) 646-7745 Pepper Grove (Grahamstown) (017) 634-7921 killarney@capeunionmart.co.za (046) 622-3238 secunda@capeunionmart.co.za Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria peppergrovemall@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 548-9811 NORTH WEST STORES Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za Brits Mall (041) 368-7442 (012) 250-1909 Mall@Reds, Centurion walmer@capeunionmart.co.za brits@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 656-0182

redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za

Gamecity Lifestyle Centre, Gaborone (+267) 039-10-948 gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone (+267) 037-00-040/1/2 riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za

NAMIBIA STORES Maerua Mall, Windhoek (+264) 061-220-424 windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za Platz am Meer, Swakopmund (+264) 064-464-007 platzammeer@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall of Namibia (+264) 061-253-161 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za

OUTLET STORES Access Park, Cape Town (021) 674-6398 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za Woodmead Value Mart, Johannesburg (011) 656-0750 woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za

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H OW E TO T RAVEL

anything goes Graham Howe joins the colourful and crazy throngs of carnival-goers in Rio de Janeiro

“O

n the way from the airport to Copacabana Bay, we jostled our way through huge carnival crowds. We were in the right place at the right time. Troupes in fancy dress jived on the streets and in the squares to a cacophony of samba and drums. (They even have a samba superdome in the city.) Rio Carnival is the mother of all festivals—and I’ve survived carnivals from New Orleans and Switzerland to Cape Town and Sydney. In Rio de Janeiro, the festivities go on for weeks until the big climax on the last weekend before Lent. Our taxi waded through a sea of revellers still out after the wild night before. Bronzed men in pink bras, tutus and tights banged on the window, calling on us to join the big party. Stuck in a traffic jam, we felt singularly straight. Heather laughed, “What a jol! We’ll have to buy party masks and costumes to get into the swing of things.” “Don’t even think about it,” I replied. “I’m not wearing a pink tutu—even in Rio.” It looked like the world’s biggest hen and bachelor party. We watched the parade pass by. “Rio is crazy today,” sighed our driver, eyeing out all-girl troupes dressed up as cops, and mermen in thongs, wearing Heidi tresses. Girls in red wearing little devil horns; girls wearing glittering body paint and little else. Anything goes in Rio. A basket of fruit—women dressed as pineapples, paw paws and strawberries— sashayed down the street. “I wouldn’t mind dressing up as a Viking and wearing horns,” I admitted. (My family name is derived from an old Viking word hyl, meaning ‘a warrior burial mound’. You find Howes in Norway. We’re as big as mounds.) After checking into our hotel, we strolled down to the Copacabana. Thousands of revellers were partying on the sand. Deejays had set out open dance stages all along this legendary six-kilometre-long beach. The locals— called cariocas—watched samba scenes broadcast from around the city on giant television screens. The beaches are wide and deep with powder-fine sand, and the

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archipelago of outcrops and lush palms creates an exotic backdrop where the mountains meet the sea. Anything goes on the beach, too. The bigger the bum, the smaller the thong. Some bums seem to swallow the whole thong, creating the illusion of total nudity. The home of the Brazilian as well as the minute thong—known to locals as fio-dental (dental floss)—leaves little to the imagination or modesty. I felt distinctly overdressed and under-tanned in my retro Speedo. Bronzed guys and gals of all shapes and sizes strutted up and down the beach. You can let it all hang out in Rio. Big is beautiful. Flab is fab. The whole city was at play at carnival on a Saturday afternoon. Rio is a densely populated, high-rise city, and the whole family escapes by going to the beach for the day. All the art-deco hotels, street cafés, rustic bars and outdoor grills spill onto the mosaic pavements and beachfront of Copacabana. That’s why Rio was the first city in the world declared a Unesco World Heritage Cultural Landscape. The beach in Rio is not just for swimming, soccer and volleyball. You can buy anything without moving from your towel on the Copacabana. You ain’t seen nothing like it—not even at the traffic lights in South Africa. Vendors walked the beach, hawking sunglasses, thongs, hats, umbrellas, sunscreen—as well as empanadas (meat pies), prawn kebabs, corn on the cob, hotdogs, chipas (small baked, cheese-flavoured rolls), yuca chips (similar to potato crisps) and nuts, fruit juices and ice creams, ice-cold beer, and caipirinhas (Brazil’s signature cocktail made with cachaça, fermented sugarcane juice). “We won’t have to go looking for Rio. Rio has come to us,” I thought out loud. Wherever you are, you can see the twin iconic landmarks of Rio: the giant granite domes of Pão de Açúcar (‘sugarloaf’), and Corcovado (‘hunchback’) where the gigantic statue of Christ the Redeemer reaches out and protects the city in his outstretched embrace. One of the fascinating (legal) local rituals is drinking mate; everywhere you

spot locals passing around this bitter herbal infusion of dried yerba (holly) leaves and shoots, sipping it through a straw out of a small gourd set in silver. The locals drink it all the time, like tea. You might have spotted Che Guevara sipping it in The Motorcycle Diaries. It looks pretty cool—but it sure is an acquired taste. The patron of Rio Carnival 2017, a showcase for dozens of the city’s samba clubs, was Tuane Rocha, a dancer who devoted her life to the art of samba. Samba and soccer have deep roots in the rich cultural heritage of the favelas (shantytowns). The locals are crazy about carnival and football, and support clubs like Flamengo and Botafogo at the Maracanã Stadium and idolise Pelé, Ronaldo and Romário. The favelas on the mountains enjoy some of the best locations overlooking Ipanema. We enjoyed a sunset stroll along the fashionable promenade at Ipanema Beach. I whistled “The Girl From Ipanema” all the time I was in Rio; it’s one of those songs that get stuck in your head like an earworm. Fans can visit the café called Garota de Ipanema where two patrons penned the song in the early 1960s: immortalising a teenage girl called Heloísa Pinheiro and popularising the bossa nova style (meaning ‘new dance’) around the world. She’s long gone—but the thong remains the same.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

T HE L AST WO RD

We do a bit of improv with South African comedian, Dave Levinsohn I’ve never thought of a travel bucket list. I don’t actively travel at all. Most of the time I just ‘end up’ in a place. But if had to choose, then Japan has always been a place I’d love to visit. The culture intrigues me. But to be honest, I still haven’t been to places closer to home, like the Orange River or Vic Falls.

› Which places have been memorable? I laugh when I read the travel section in the Sunday papers. How the hell do people afford to travel to these exotic places? Don’t they work? I need to admit that my comedy career has taken me to some incredible destinations (Seychelles, Australia, Edinburgh, Madagascar). The best thing I’ve done lately has been a few road trips with my son, showing him some of South Africa’s magical places. We once caught the Premier Classe deluxe train from Joburg to Durban—that was amazing for any bucket list. But there are other favourites: obvious ones like Vegas, New York, London… And once I even went skiing in Utah!

› What’s the weirdest food or drink you’ve ever tried? Home-made pineapple rum from Mozambique—but I don’t actually remember much of it. And once I ate all my friend’s hospital food off his tray during visiting hours. He wasn’t hungry.

› Are you an adrenaline junkie? Ever tried shark-cage diving, bungee jumping, parachuting, abseiling? On an episode of Going Nowhere Slowly, we all had to bungee jump and go kloofing. I needed a stunt double for both. You’ll find me the furthest away from anything that makes me anxious or that pumps extra, unwanted adrenaline into my body. Including skydiving or anything that involves testing gravity. No thanks!

› Do you consider yourself a bush baby or a city slicker? I’ve spent most of my life in the city, although I love nature and hikes and rivers and adventure. Back in the day, they had something called ‘veld school’, where they took a bunch of teens to a mountain retreat and shouted at them about communism for a week. We were woken up at 5 a.m. to watch the sunrise and read the Bible, then we were

The Intrepid Explorer issue 18

shouted at while we ate mieliepap. That was deemed educational. But really, it just cemented my love of the city. I’ll go camping, but there have to be some 5-star amenities. Short answer: city slicker.

› Braai or sushi? Strange to have to choose between two wonderful options. A braai is way more social and you don’t get people often saying, “Yuk, raw meat!” So socially, a braai wins. But sushi is so damn quick and tasty.

› What’s the most memorable experience you’ve had with wildlife? We were in the bush somewhere near Marloth Park, close to Mozambique. The radio was playing “Spirit of the Great Heart” by Johnny Clegg. The sun was setting; the beers were flowing. The guys all jumped off the Landy for a pee break, then realised we were facing some tourists and a pride of lions on the Crocodile River side. They were not impressed with our singing. They got some good pics, though…

› If you were stuck on a desert island, would you know how to make a fire without matches, and how to catch dinner? I was asleep during that lesson… But I could rub some sticks together and I can fish a bit. But I’d rather not get stuck on an island in the first place.

› What is your tried and trusted signature dish you serve your friends? Here’s a secret: If I hadn’t chosen comedy as a career, I’d be a chef or a cook. I can cook like a mofo! I wish they’d ask me to do that Ultimate Braai Master or even Celebrity MasterChef. I make a creamy fennel and chilli pasta with ham, garlic and basil that pretty much makes people lick their plates.

› If it were up to you, what should be done to the people running the rhino horn trade? People may not like this answer, but as with many illegal trades, the only way it has worked is to legalise it. We can’t stop it. Make the horn trade a commodity with set pricing and taxes. Poaching then becomes redundant. The cost is too much to stop the trade. And once it’s regulated, the tax generated can be used to save the young rhinos injured as a result of illegal poaching.

Although maybe I’m thinking of prostitution, I’m confused now…

› Beer or wine? We presume it’s beer, as you make your own craft brand? When I first started this ‘craft my own beer’ journey, it was in fact wine that was the catalyst. I was a massive wine drinker and lover. But it was actually a beer and food pairing at a wine farm that got my taste buds buzzing. But there’s nothing better than a great wine. Although beer will always be my friend. No one has downed a bottle of chardonnay after a 5km run, right?

› You’ve been in comedy for many years. Do you still get nervous before going out in front of a big audience? It’s a weird feeling, being nervous. You must always be slightly on edge with live comedy. But there are different types of nervous feelings, the worst being when you’re unprepared. Or when the organiser of the gig or venue has no clue what stand-up comedy is. So yes, I do get nervous. But I love being up there and seeing people laugh, so the nerves don’t stay for long.

› What’s in the pipeline for Dave Levinsohn? Well, my craft beer, Davebrew, has been accepted into a few craft bars like Capital Craft Beer Academy [Menlo Park] and Cut and Craft [Kensington, Joburg]. So, the next logical step is for me to have a beer and comedy festival with a few other brewers involved, a great band and my favourite comedians—all hosted by me in a festivaltype vibe. Sounds good, hey?

› Where can our readers catch you performing over the next few months? Most of my comedy gigs are corporate engagements, so not many people get to see me on their radar. I still love performing at the comedy clubs like Goliath [Sandton] and Parkers [Montecasino], just to stay sharp and up to date. There’s a full hour of me on the Comedy Central (DStv channel 122) show, My Bad. I also have a tour coming up in August. The Fire & Ice! hotels in Cape Town, Jozi and Pretoria have given me two nights at each to do a full one-man show. For other gigs, check out my website: www.thedaveshow.co.za.

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

› What are the top destinations on your ‘bucket list’ of places to which you’d like to travel?

Namibia Reservations Botswana Reservations

Beautiful Landscapes

Fascinating Animals

Interesting Cultures Accomodation Selfdrive Tours Guided Tours Camping Safaris

Namibia Botswana South Africa Zambia Zimbabwe

Incentives Vehicle Rentals Adventure Activities Scenic Flights

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