Intrepid Explorer 4th Edition 2018 - Issue 24

Explorer S P O T L I G H T O N C O N S E R VAT I O N A N D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

‘I speak for the trees, for the trees have no tongues. And I’m asking you, sir, at the top of my lungs. Oh please do not cut down another one’ — The Lorax

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Luxe venture

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BACK TO THE ROOT Thanda Game Reserve’s lavish setting belies its ties to Zulu traditions

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ON THE PERIPHERY

In focus MODEL CITIZENS A loyal community of everyday South African activists helps anti-poaching efforts at Kruger National Park

The vibrant Khaya community is a melting pot of entrepreneurial flair and creative talents — all while rising above a fabric of societal ills

A GREAT ESCAPE More than just a desert, safaris and luxury await travellers to the Great Karoo Intrepid

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CONTENTS

Escapade ALL ABOARD Tourism has taken a turn toward the responsible — and the little coastal town of Gansbaai offers the ideal model for profitmaking sustainability

Globetrotter FAR, FAR AWAY...

Removed from other tourist destinations, the tiny isle of Saint Helena is one of the Atlantic Ocean’s best-kept secrets

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Into the wild RISE OF THE GUARDIANS In a semi-desert region of South Africa, a group of dedicated individuals are working towards the conservation of two of the world’s most majestic wild cats

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08 ED’S LETTER

73 TOP TIPS

10 HOT SPOT

75 TRAVEL HACKER

12 FINAL DESTINATIONS

77 THE LIST

16 TRAVEL KIT

80 COMPETITION

58 GEAR

82 BON VOYAGE

Spotlight THREE LITTLE LETTERS ‘Eco’. That’s all it takes to assuage consciences and persuade people to part with their hard-earned cash. But how to tell whether or not a tourism destination is truly eco-friendly?

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Explorer Intrepid

EDITOR

Zainab Slemang van Rijmenant

EDITORIAL Copy Editor & Writer Farah Khalfe

DESIGN Head of Design

Warren Uytenbogaardt

Designer

Mish-al van Rijmenant

ANA PUBLISHING CEO

Grant Fredericks

CFO

Lisa de Villiers CA (SA)

intrepidexplorer.co.za Editorial Contributors

Alexandra Uytenbogaardt, Dewald Daniels, Jacques Marais, Janine Avery, John Marks, Laurianne Claase, Lisa Abdellah, Mantombi Makhubele, Michelle Kavarnos, Muneerah Kader, Nathan Adams, Simon Capstick-Dale, Taugheedah Abdullah-Jacobs, Theodore Afrika.

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On the cover

Eagle encounters at Spier in Stellenbosch, Cape Town. Model wears: Columbia Silver Ridge long-sleeved shirt, R850, and First Ascent utility trousers, R999, both available at Outdoor Warehouse (story on page 58).

Photography: Dewald Daniels.

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ED’S LETTER

Keeping my cool while a bird of prey chills out on my arm!

Head to page 58 to read more on Eagle Encounters, an interactive, rehabilitation, conservation and eco-tourism centre at Spier, Stellenbosch.

And, at her weight, I also needed some help holding up my arm — no kidding!

Earlier this year, I also ventured to the Little Karoo, just three hours outside Cape Town. My second trip to Sanbona Wildlife Reserve was more educational than adventurous. The relatively young reserve, established in 2002, is a conservation-oriented park although there are four lodges on the 58 000-hectare premises where travellers and children of all ages can partake in safaris and other wildlife encounters.

My experience tracking cheetah and lion with our guide, Casper, led me to delve deeper into the conservation of these majestic creatures, which you can read more about on page 50.

And don’t forget to follow us on Instagram, @intrepidexplorerza, where you can share your travel photographs with us using the hashtag #intrepidtravels. Now, it’s on to the next adventure... @zainabslemang

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In my line of work, I often get to enjoy the most amazing experiences. Not only do I get to travel to gorgeous, and sometimes exotic, locations but I also have the opportunity to encounter people, animals and cultures from all walks of life.

Most recently, I had the opportunity to interact with eagles at our editorial shoot for Gear (page 58), which took place at Spier in Stellenbosch. The first bird I held was a friendly fellow with yellow beak and claws that matched my butter-yellow jacket beautifully. The second, however, was gigantic and weighed five kilograms!

Mic, an elegant black eagle, is 21 years old — six years older than the average age an eagle lives — and, although friendly, gently whacked me on the back of my head as her wingspan is so large.

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HOT SPOT

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Photography: PONANT

Explorer fantasies and the protection and preservation of the planet are combined in French cruise ship operator PONANT’s latest offering: National Geographic Expeditions.

Renowned for its luxury expedition experiences, PONANT has developed its Small Ship Expedition programme to embody the spirit of adventure, conservation and education — all while introducing travellers to some of the planet’s most remote and inaccessible places, accompanied by experts and photographers of National Geographic. Venture to destinations as varied as the Malay Archipelago with the earth’s most biodiverse marine ecosystem, Fin del Mundo and the Falklands or the unspoilt White Continent. PONANT’s fleet is ‘clean ship’ certified and all efforts are made to respect the environment and marine life in each port of call. au.ponant.com/national-geographic EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 11

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F I N A L D E S T I N AT I O N S

CAPE TOWN MINSTREL CARNIVAL 2 JANUARY 2019 CBD, Cape Town Also referred to as ‘Tweede Nuwe Jaar’ (Second New Year), the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival celebrates the diverse cultures found in the Mother City. Thousands join the celebration by lining the streets to witness multiple minstrel troupes march through the city while performing musical instruments and wearing celebratory uniforms and face paint.

Free

TRANS AGULHAS CHALLENGE 28 December 2018 – 1 January 2019 Starts at Plettenberg Bay Known as the ‘World’s Toughest Inflatable Boat Challenge’, the Trans Agulhas Challenge is an action-packed, adrenaline-pumping race. The race begins in Plettenberg Bay, where more than 40 boats will battle it out on the water in six stages across 700 km as spectators cheer on their favourites towards the finish in Strand.

Free, trans-agulhas.com

STELLENBOSCH STREET SOIREES 6 – 8 PM, VARIOUS DATES, DECEMBER THROUGH MARCH 2019 Stellenbosch Presented by Stellenbosch Wine Routes, the City of Oaks in the Western Cape will share its vibrant street culture and cosmopolitan charm with its weekly street soirees. Taking place once a month on #WineWednesday, visitors to the town can expect unique dishes, delicious vintage wines and smooth sounds. Each ticket includes a glass and 12 wine tastings.

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OVERHEX SUMMER PICNIC CONCERT 26 JANUARY 2019 Overhex Winery & Bistro, Worcester

EBUBELENI MUSIC FESTIVAL 28 – 30 DECEMBER 2018 Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium and Boardwalk ICC, Port Elizabeth Now in its seventh year, the Ebubeleni Music Festival has grown beyond its venue at the Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium with Day 2 taking place at the Boardwalk ICC. Grab a picnic, drinks and some mates and enjoy the musical stylings of artists such as AKA, Mafikizolo, Sjava and many more.

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The annual Overhex Summer Picnic Concert provides the perfect backdrop for a summer’s evening well spent. This year’s concert features alternative Afrikaans band Spoegwolf, who have been performing since 2012. Take in the sounds while sipping on Overhex Balance, Survivor and Mensa wines, and tucking into a scrumptious picnic from the bistro.

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RHINO TEARS WINE Produced by Mt Vernon Estate, Rhino Tears wine was launched at the end of 2014 to help fund anti-rhino poaching within South Africa’s National Parks (SANParks).

A portion of the sale from each bottle (R15) is donated to the SANParks Honorary Rangers.

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THE FIRST SAFARI – SEARCHING FOR FRANÇOIS LEVAILLANT BY IAN GLENN In this non-fiction natural history narrative, Iann Glenn writes of his experiences searching for South Africa’s greatest birder’s notebooks as well as provides insight into Françoise Levaillant’s life. An interesting read that includes the famous map Levaillant inspired for King Louis XVI. R222,

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BUSHWHACKERS

A great escape More than just a desert, safaris and luxury await travellers to the Great Karoo

Turning right off the N1 at Beaufort West from Cape Town, the straight road stretches over the horizon, fields of russet-coloured grass swaying to the creaky tune of steel windmills turning in a gentle breeze. There is nothing for miles around, save the odd sheep or donkey dotting the road. This is the heart of the Great Karoo.

However, this seemingly barren landscape offers a safari experience like no other, complete with cheetah walks, giraffe, and eland loping across plains, all set within an imposing mountain landscape. Up from the nothingness rise a range of dolomite formations as the Camdeboo Mountains start to take form. The grandiose

structures appear to be a desert mirage but it is just the beginning of what this vast – and striking – area offers...

Accommodation Near the town of Graaff-Reinet, the lodgings at Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve offer a 1900s’ version of a home away from home. If that home included opulent furnishings and fivestar meals. Upon arrival, a roaring fire, brandy and overstuffed sofas beckon for shoes to be kicked off and days to be spent reading a good book, while a plethora of sweet treats and savoury snacks served in the afternoon epitomise a Karoo high tea. The main Manor House is just one of a number of

cottages on the property that have been lovingly restored by the Buchanans, the owners of the farm. Once the country retreat for the family, its Cape Dutch style has taken years to restore and now sits proud of place in manicured gardens, seemingly the antithesis of safari living yet somehow working wonderfully.

Conservation When the Buchanans moved to the land, there was little to write home about. Farming had taken its toll but through sheer perseverance and commitment, as well as working together on a shared vision with their neighbours, this isolated area

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Words: Janine Avery; Photography: Courtesy images

Clockwise from this image: The expansive landscapes, absolute tranquility and lack of mass tourism are the main drawcards of the Camdeboo region; Whether you decide to enjoy a boma braai or a high tea on the verandah, the food at Mount Camdeboo never disappoints; Lavish bedrooms add to the plush safari experience.

of the Karoo is now a flagship for South African conservation.

Richard Slater, the reserve’s managing director, is immensely proud of what has been achieved at Mount Camdeboo, especially as it was one of the first farms to join a unique initiative called the Mountain Zebra-Camdeboo Protected Environment. This area links Camdeboo National Park to Addo and Mountain Zebra National Parks, with the overarching aim to work together to protect and restore approximately 286 343 hectares of public and private land for generations to come. Showing their commitment to the cause, the Mount Camdeboo reserve is currently putting measures in place in order for

lion and elephants to return to this part of the country.

Activities It is this passion for the environment, people and family that makes the safari experience at Mount Camdeboo so unique.

During the low season, guests may find themselves enjoying solo safari drives where they are able to dictate their safari experience, even overlanding to see old Boer-war sites at sunset and venturing out after dark in search of the elusive aardvark.

Within the arresting landscapes, marvel at Cape mountain zebra, stalk cheetah on foot and laugh at the silly antics of a one-horned oryx. With no 4 am wake up calls or tiresome tourist questions, the safari experience is as relaxed as they come and allows for that treasured time needed to unplug and de-stress.

As Richard says, it is an experience for those that have seen and done the Big Five and are looking for something different in an uncommon setting, and where they can really connect to the natural world.  EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 19

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LUXE VENTURE

An aeial view of the reserve shows off its lush vegetation and beautiful accommodations.

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LUXE VENTURE

Back to the root Thanda Game Reserve’s lavish setting belies its ties to Zulu traditions

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LUXE VENTURE

This page: Villa iZulu is perfect for a family safari or reunion, with secluded spaces such as a room courtyard and library.

Opposite page: Safari Lodge’s nine suites are comprised of multiple rondawels, sporting all amenities and huge bathtubs overlooking the bush.

Modernisation is a constant threat to traditional life, rendering no culture static. Yet, in rural KwaZulu-Natal, known as Zululand, many cultural practices are upheld and sites of cultural significance remain intact. For visitors to the region, safari lodges offer a glimpse into these experiences albeit within much more palatial settings.

One such site is Thanda Game Reserve, situated approximately 260 kilometres north of Durban and offering travellers to a region known for its beaches, a vibrant safari adventure.

In Zulu, one of South Africa’s 11 official languages, ‘thanda’ translates to ‘love’. And that is the exact sentiment echoed throughout the game reserve — from the love for the bush, with various conservation efforts by the Thanda Safari team — to the love of their work by the reserve’s employees.

Head Ranger Morne Hamlyn, has been in the safari game for more than 20 years and his passion for wild animals knows no bounds.

Walking safaris become an intimate and lively educational session as he expertly tracks lion and rhino, all the while enlightening guests with facts and anecdotes about the bush. Similarly,

Thanda Safari contributes to leadingedge conservation strategies through its various programmes and research.

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These include landscape rehabilitation, clearing of alien vegetation, water monitoring, translocating and introducing animals for genetic diversity, restoring and conserving natural ecosystems, species protection such as cheetah breeding and research on spotted hyena, and anti-poaching efforts.

Stay The reserve offers various options to lay your head, first of which is the Tented Camp. The camp comprises 15 luxury safari tents, each with its own private sun deck and en-suite canvas bathroom. Each tent is as big as a two-roomed apartment straight out of Fourways and takes understated luxury to a new level. Flickering lanterns guide guests to their tents at night while the outdoor showers offer respite from the heat, inviting in the sights, sounds and smells of the bush.

The reserve’s flagship property, Safari Lodge, is a tribute to African abundance with nine suites, each sporting its own lounge, master bedroom, double-sided fireplace, plunge pool and sun deck.

Thanda Safari Game Reserve offers a range of rates and packages, including corporate, honeymoon, pay/stay and a combination thereof. For more information, visit thanda.com.

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LUXE VENTURE

GETTING THERE Thanda Safari Game Reserve can be reached by road or air.

Guests can fly to King Shaka International Airport or Richards Bay Airport, which is situated three hours and one and a half hours away, respectively. Driving from OR Tambo International Airport, Johannesburg, will take approximately six hours while Airlink offers flights to Phinda Airstrip, situated 45 minutes from the reserve. flyairlink.com

Designed for optimum privacy, guests can also enjoy its shared spaces, which include a library, business lounge, cigar bar, wine cellar and spa.

For the ultimate in safari glamour, Villa iZulu offers it all. Featuring five suites, a wine cellar, heated swimming pool, library, games room, viewing deck and helicopter pad, it is no wonder it has been awarded Africa’s Leading Luxury Villa at the World Travel Awards. Designed for the reserve’s owners, Christin and Dan Olofsson, the homestead is an opulent and private hideaway that also accommodates childminders and security staff in a separate area.

Engage From authentic Zulu song and dance — complete with traditional drums and dress — to tasty local dishes — think South African potjiekos, a slowcooked blend of meat, vegetables and rice, and delicious braai of tender game cuts — there is no shortage of culture at Thanda Safari. As part of its community outreach, the reserve partners with local dance groups to share their culture with guests as well as encourages tours to a traditional homestead in the local village. Called ‘In the Footsteps of Zulus’, this experience allows guests to spend time with a traditional healer, called a sangoma, explore King Shaka’s battlefields, meet students at Thanda’s Star for Life schools and participate in community projects and Zulu celebrations.

Indulge Being on safari does not mean there is no time for indulgence. Both the Tented Camp and Safari Lodge is home to a spa, each of which offers a range of treatments that combines western techniques with ancient Zulu holistic practices learnt from traditional Zulu women.

At the Tented Camp, an open-air deck connected to a safari tent and overlooking the Royal Zulu Mountains sets the scene for a sensory experience while Safari Lodge’s spa emerges from a bed of rock and stone, a secluded enclave that provides an ideal space for tranquility. 

Words: Mantombi Makhubele; Photography: Christian Sperka Photography, Courtesy images; Transport sponsored by Ford South Africa

From top: Each suite at the Tented Camp is as big as a two-bedroomed apartment; Enjoy a relaxing massage at either the Tented Camp or Safari Lodge; Tented Camp suites open up for a panoramic view of the bush.

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IN FOCUS

The Kruger Nationa Park’s new decentralised aircraft, the FOXBAT A22LS.

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Model citizens A loyal community of everyday South African activists helps anti-poaching efforts at Kruger National Park

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Conservationist and MyPlanet ambassador Braam Malherbe was a founding member of the MyPlanet Rhino Fund.

From top: A free-spirited adventure became an exploration of the Namib desert; A view of the North Pole from one of the duo’s flights; Playing games above Hollywood.

From top: Feeding time at the orphanage; A wild elephant herd on the banks of Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, close to the release facility.

A wildlife sanctuary in the purest sense of the word, the Kruger National Park is South Africa’s national — and largest — game reserve. At two million hectares, its vast expanse of land is approximately the size of Israel, extends along the Mozambican border for 20 000 square kilometres and is home to more mammal species than any other reserve on the continent. From the illustrious Big Five to the birding Big Six and elusive Little Five, the Kruger encapsulates the spirit of an authentic African bushveld experience, drawing visitors from all corners of the globe.

Yet, immersed within the depths of its rich flora and fauna lies a severe crisis far more discreet than the Kruger’s celebrated wildlife attractions: The occurrence of rampant rhino poaching by highly organised crime syndicates.

According to Glenn Phillips, Managing Executive at South African National Parks (SANParks), there have been 156 reported cases of poaching since July 2018 while 23 suspects — all armed with high-calibre rifles and poaching equipment — were arrested within the same period. Sadly, the increasingly sophisticated nature of poaching syndicates has resulted in the country losing an average of three rhinos a day. In fact,

Kruger National Park contains the largest remaining population of Africa’s iconic white and black rhino, the latter of which is critically endangered.

To combat this epidemic, authorities at Kruger have upped their anti-poaching efforts with the help of organisations invested in the cause. One such initiative is the MyPlanet Rhino Fund. Administered by the Endangered Wildlife Trust, over the past year, the fund has donated more than R1.4 million to SANParks, and specifically to Kruger National Park, to be used in rhino conservation. Made possible by approximately 34 000 devoted supporters who consistently swipe their MySchool MyVillage MyPlanet cards at participating retailers, part of the donation was used to obtain a new Aeroprakt Foxbat A22LS aircraft.

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IN FOCUS

The Foxbat is an essential contribution to the growing need to escalate the fight against poaching using more advanced methods. ‘The Foxbat was chosen because of how slowly it can fly. It is capable of flying at 210 kilometres per hour, allowing it to keep up with poachers on foot,’ says pilot and Kruger National Park’s Marula North Regional Ranger, Steven Whitfield.

‘It also has great manoeuvring ability, meaning it can navigate between trees and dense vegetation in remote locations that are difficult to get to and where the most threats occur.

This also allows the aircraft to remain visible to poachers and team rescue members as well as maintain optimum surveillance of the surrounding areas throughout a mission.’ In addition, at only R360 per hour for fuel, the inexpensive maintenance and operation of the Foxbat makes it far more cost effective than a regular aircraft.

The Foxbat will be based and deployed within the Satara region of the park and housed within a newly-built hangar that was jointly funded by the MySchool MyVillage MyPlanet programme and stoprhinopoaching.com. Having an aircraft

that is decentralised and stationed at Satara instead of at a central hangar where planes are deployed to all areas of the park, will greatly improve the response time to poaching alerts in this vicinity. Better availability of an aircraft also allows missions to get underway as quickly as possible — a crucial component to the success of any reaction, according to Steven.

Conservationist and Endangered Wildlife Trust Fund ambassador, Braam Malherbe, who has been instrumental in the fund’s success, says: ‘It’s incredible for citizen-driven funding to result in the much-needed donation of a state-of-the-art aircraft. For me, this is just the proof that each person’s seemingly small contribution to conservation can result in a big impact’.

‘Supporters of the MyPlanet Rhino Fund can feel very proud of themselves,’ adds MySchool MyVillage MyPlanet General Manager, Pieter Twine. ‘For 21 years, we have been raising funds for school and charities, and, over the past seven years, I am proud to see how South African shoppers have stood up for rhinos — a national icon. Their support is phenomenal and an inspiration to others who also want to play a part in protecting these fantastic animals who are an integral part of our national heritage.’

Driving through the Kruger Park, the magnitude of one shopper’s seemingly small donation is awe-inspiring. Close-range sightings of majestic elephants, zebra, giraffe and buffalo are a daily reality here and adds perspective to the grave need for all citizens to take on the responsibility of fighting the decline of any life form that calls the park home. 

Words: Farah Khalfe; Photography: Courtesy images

The Kruger National Park’s anti-poaching rangers — from left: Rob Thomson, Richard Sowry, Martin Ndlovu, Steven Whitfield, Marius Renke and Robbie Bryden — stand proudly aside the FOXBAT A22LS aircraft.

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On the periphery The vibrant Khaya community is a melting pot of entrepreneurial flair and creative talents — all while rising above a fabric of societal ills

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Formed under the Group Areas Act of 1950, and with a turbulent history of segregation and forced removals attached to its heritage, Khayelitsha is one of the largest and fastest-growing townships in South Africa today, comprising a population of approximately 400 000 residents. Located on the Cape Flats in the Western Cape, just 30 kilometres from Cape Town’s central business district, the partially informal settlement has overcome monumental challenges to reach its current status of a flourishing entrepreneurial hub.

‘Khayelitsha’ itself translates to ‘new home’ in Xhosa, the dominant language of the community and one of South Africa’s official languages. The name is a touching tribute to the town’s early populations, who displayed unwavering strength and fortitude as they rapidly assimilated into what was, at the time, unfamiliar territory.

This fighting spirit continues to manifest in the township’s residents, the majority of whom are young rural-to-urban migrants with ardent ambitions to uplift their community while forging better prospects and brighter futures. Permeated by an enthusiastic and business-savvy mindset, and combined with close-knit roots to cultural traditions, Khayelitsha has amalgamated into a tourism hot spot for both local and foreign visitors alike.

The people of the township have channelled their struggles of rampant poverty, violence and crime into an inspiring atmosphere of creativity and innovation, creating a sustainable platform for economic growth in the area. From cycling tours and community gardening to indulging in traditional shisa nyama (braai) cuisine and visiting neighbourhood taverns, there are a number of ways visitors can experience the culture, hospitality and authenticity of the Khayelitsha community.

Eat & Drink When trendy coffee culture began percolating the Mother City, the majority of the popular spots remained exclusive to working professionals and the inner-city crowd. That is, until three businesssavvy Khayelitsha locals — Wongama Baleni, Vusumzi Mamile and Vuyile Msaku — envisioned bringing the culture of artisanal coffee to a township context. The trio are the brains behind Department of Coffee (DOC), the township’s very first coffee shop, which aims to dispel the notion that cappuccinos and coffee culture are expensive and unattainable. Vuyile, a trained barista, had worked at a number of establishments, such as Vide e Caffé and Woolworths, before passing on his skills to his colleagues.

Opened in 2012, the café takes the form of a sleek and modern over-the-counter espresso bar situated in the heart of Khayelitsha, directly opposite the bustling train station and open weekdays from 5:30 am to 6 pm. The aim, says Wongoma, who now runs DOC by himself, is to

break down the barriers between Khayelitsha and the rest of Cape Town through the shared love of a coffee sub-culture that transcends socio-economic differences. As such, DOC runs regular open days, parties and events to facilitate this engagement, and provides a fun way for visitors to experience the township from a unique perspective.

A multifaceted venue, Rands Lifestyle Space is characterised by tasty food, feel-good tunes and a laid-back atmosphere. Open seven days a week, Rands prides itself on its traditional fare that encapsulates all the goodness of a hearty, home-made meal. Patrons can choose from menu favourites such as creamy spinach, ribs, chakalaka pap or buffalo wings dipped in Rands’ secret sauce. Mfundo Mbeki, who co-owns the spot with his brother Mshayi, says Rands is the ultimate after-work joint, where people come to escape the stresses of the daily hustle and spend their well-earned ‘rands’. When the weekend arrives, the space transforms from

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a relaxed after-work hangout to a fun party spot. The resident DJ entertains lively crowds until the early hours while well-known performers, such as Euphonik and AKA, occasionally grace the stage, pulling even greater crowds than the 1 500-capacity venue can accommodate.

For a truly inspirational entrepreneurial journey, a stop at 4Roomed eKasi Culture is a must. A multi-dimensional lifestyle concept, 4Roomed is based on the four-roomed dwellings of old South African townships.

Known as shanties, these residences were often divided into a loungecum-dining area, a main bedroom, a second bedroom and a kitchen, and were often shared by multiple families. Founder Abigail Mbalo-Mokoena says such shared living spaces, found within the marginalised black communities of growing cities, showcased the epitome of the spirit of ubuntu, both a Xhosa and Zulu word for a quality that possesses the essential human virtues of compassion and humanity. Abigail’s aim is to revive this philosophy through her services, which comprises a restaurant, a food truck, and 4Roomed Pantry Goods that promotes food security and healthy food choices in rural communities.

Department-of-Coffee,

Previous page: An aerial view of Khayelitsha township. This page, from top: Children play in the yard at Makukhanye Art Room; A street in Khayelitsha.

RandsCPT, 4roomedekasiculture.com

Stay & Play With nothing but a dream to own a guest house, former domestic worker Nomalungelo Sotyingwe, affectionately known as Lungi, chanced a meeting with Marijke Frijters, a Dutch woman who used her network to raise support and capital for Lungi’s vision. And so, Lungi’s Bed & Breakfast was born.

Amidst the growth of township tourism in recent years, Lungi’s B&B opened its doors in 2010, providing a pioneering concept of ‘shack-chic’ accommodation to guests looking for an authentic township experience. The business quickly prospered and grew into an integral part of the community and tourism sector but in December 2014, was ravaged by a fire. While no one

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was hurt, it took Lungi many months to rebuild the lodge from scratch and, in 2015, it reopened with a fresh new look: A homely, multi-coloured offering that features two large bedrooms, a conjoined dining and living room, a kitchen as well as two additional bedrooms for Lungi’s own family. The presence of the B&B in the community has had a ripple effect on local entrepreneurs from other sectors — neighbours offer parking bays, taxi drivers transport guests around the township and art by local artists are exhibited within the guest house — that displays the trademark township collaboration and unity prevalent in Khayelitsha.

If a night out on the town(ship) is what the doctor ordered then KwaAce nightclub should not be overlooked. Off the back of a stylish new relaunch, KwaAce has once again cemented itself as the township’s official night-time hot spot. Named after owner Ace Mabheka, KwaAce — which means ‘at Ace’s’ — aims to provide an all-round quality club experience for locals on home soil, saving them from expensive trips to the suburbs or city centre. An exclusive VVIP

section on the first floor has a pool and revamped balcony while each floor sports its own bar and dance floor. The club’s three resident DJs spin an array of urban beats that include hip hop, kwaito and deep house.

Enjoy the popular Groova weekends with premiun cocktails and champagne.

And, in true eKasi style, KwaAce will be expanding with the addition of its own butchery that will serve traditional shisa nyama accompanied by veggies and pap. lungis.co.za,

officialgroova

Explore Township tours have become a popular attraction in South Africa’s tourism industry, with Khayelitysha often frequented by many a curious visitor eager for a glimpse into a lifestyle that melds city amenities and township panache.

Lead by a knowledgeable guide who is often a local of the area, the tours provide visitors with an intricate understanding of the community’s inner workings. This includes a first-hand perspective of how formal and informal businesses co-exist side-by-side as well as the ongoing projects that seek to foster community spirit amongst the youth. Many tours also highlight the art studios, craft centres and extra-curricular activities that provide employment and skills development to residents, and in which visitors can get involved.

One company that is not only passionate about showcasing the area but also transforming it, is Juma’s Tours. Operated by Juma Mkwela, each

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tour includes meaningful activities, such as planting a vegetable garden or painting a wall mural, that provide guests with the opportunity to make a valuable — and genuine — contribution to the community. Visitors can also stop by Makukhanye Art Room, run by Theatre4Change, a non-governmental organisation (NGO), or assist teachers at a primary school to truly engage with locals.

No township tour is complete without a stop at the Khayelitsha Craft Market, situated at St Michaels and All Angels Anglican Church. The market is dotted with trinkets of pottery, woven baskets, beadwork and paintings, all hand-made by township residents — and is a burgeoning display of the artistic and entrepreneurial talents present in the community, including the renowned Baboon Man, who uses cement and other materials to create beautifully intricate baboon statues.

Another intriguing stop is the 18 Gangster Museum — a living, interactive museum and the first of its kind in Cape Town — that provides a first-hand look at the consequences of gangsterism and the difficulties of prison life.

Ex-offenders and reformed gang members share their experiences of a life riddled with violence, crime and substance abuse while visitors learn about various crime and gang-related statistics as well as the root causes that underlie these issues. There is also a showcase of memorabilia and archives that relate to gangsterism and, through the retelling of these stories, the museum seeks to encourage a positive alternative for township youth by illustrating how some gang members have been able to turn over a new leaf and reintegrate into society in a positive way.

Additionally, the museum offers various immersive experiences that range from a three-hour prison and community tour to biking, walking or taxi tours that include

stops at various points of interest and a broader overview of the complexities of township life. townshiparttours.co.za, St Michaels and All Angels Anglican Church at 021 361 5246, 18gm.co.za Engage In addition to experiencing life in Khayelitsha, the community also provides ample opportunities for visitors to participate in various projects in the township. For example, eKhaya eKasi Art and Education Centre, located in a residential area of Khayelitsha, offers activities and development programmes for community upliftment with initiatives that specifically target unemployment, illiteracy, poverty and the AIDS epidemic. From the centre’s Family Literacy programme and Babies and Books initiative, which collects and distributes black dolls and multicultural children’s books, to the communal vegetable garden and various health education talks, eKhaya is a dynamic and safe space that fosters creativity, ambition, hope and self-confidence amongst marginalised members of the society. Tourism plays a major role in sustaining the programmes as many of the arts and crafts created by locals are sold at the on-site art boutique store, with the money reinvested into developing and improving the centre.

Partnered to the centre is The Heart Of A Woman (THOAW) project, founded by Canadian photographer Andreas Rees. The project partners with non-profit organisations to uplift women in impoverished areas and, at eKhaya, offers an 11-day mobile photography and digital literacy workshop where women with no previous photography, social media or digital knowledge are taught these skills and tasked with capturing meaningful imagery that showcases their community. The workshop, which for some women is the first time they become connected to the

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internet, encourages attendees to promote their work and businesses online. The main ethos of THOAW is to equip women with skills beyond that of the camera in order for them to leverage their work as a means of income and remove the barriers they face in accessing education, job opportunities and health information.

An organisation that focuses more on culture than business is that of Ezakwantu ‘The African’ Youth4Change Group, which incorporates a traditional choir, traditional dance, poetry and drama as a means for youth development in the township. With approximately 50 vibrant and passionate members, who range from the ages of seven to over 30, the project has cultivated an experienced and highly professional group of performers who are available to perform at private functions and other special occasions.  ekhayaekasi.co.za, heartofawomanproject.com, esakwantu.youth@gmail.com

Words: Farah Khalfe; Photography: Cape Town Tourism

HELPING HAND THOAW project is in need of second-hand iPhones and Android phones, which are used in the digital literacy workshops for its high-quality camera capabilities. Donations of new models (such as the iPhone 5, 6, 6S and SE) are also accepted and donors will receive up to three images taken by the participating women as well as a postcard featuring one of the images with a handwritten note. heartofawomanproject.com

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GLOBETROTTER

Longwood in Saint Helena is a pictureperfect countryside escape on the island.

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Far, far away...

Removed from other tourist destinations, the tiny isle of Saint Helena is one of the Atlantic Ocean’s best-kept secrets

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Clockwise from left: The regal exterior of Mantis St Helena hotel; Light-filled rooms are modern and spacious.

More than 4 000 kilometres west of Africa and over 5 000 kilometres from South America, the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena is a lush yet remote tropical island. For the majority of its history, Saint Helena and its central town, Jamestown, was only accessible to outsiders by ship or boat. The completion of its airport in 2015, has opened up the island to a new genre of travelling — a globetrotting trend known as remote tourism, with South Africans enjoying the luxury of direct flights from Johannesburg.

With a population of just 4 534 and an area of a mere 122 square kilometres, it is paltry when compared to Mauritius at 2 040 square kilometres or the islands of the Seychelles, which has a total land area of 455 square kilometres. Yet, this outlying destination will keep any traveller on their toes with picture-friendly landmarks and outdoor adventure spots.

Stay For a modern take on history, book a stay at the Mantis St Helena, situated off St James Church.

The hotel is home to a range of heritage and contemporary suites, each decorated with oldschool British flair. Mantis St Helena also offers

numerous activity packages, including hikes along the Post Box trails, diving with whale sharks during season and exploring historical war forts.

After a day of sightseeing, head to the hotel’s restaurant for delicious St Helenian delicacies, known as ‘Saint dishes’. These include a mix of Chinese, Malay and British flavours blended into fish curries, fish cakes, soups and roasts.

On Jamestown’s main road, the Consulate Hotel is an idyllic getaway with colonial-style balconies and interiors reminiscent of the 18thcentury Victorian era. However, unlike its ancient counterparts, the Consulate is fully equipped with Wifi, a bar, laundry services, two leisure lounges, a terrace and gardens.

Traditional pastimes, such as board games and puzzles, can be found at the Blue Lounge or sip on a hot cup of coffee at the coffee shop.

The hotel is perfectly situated five minutes from top tourist spots, including the castle, museum, dive centre and yacht club.

Budget-savvy travellers need not count their pennies just yet. Richard’s Travel Lodge is a quaint bed and breakfast, with lunch and dinner as optional inclusions. Two comfortable suites await guests, each sporting Wifi, entertainment facilities and plenty of wardrobe space. In the morning, dig into a full English or Continental breakfast while taking in the views of Half Tree Hollow and the ocean. mantissthelena.com, islandimages.co.sh, consulatehotelsainthelena.com EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 41

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GLOBETROTTER

Indulge There’s nothing quite like sipping on exotic liqueurs while relaxing on a remote island.

Lionel Galway who established the St Helena Golf Club for the sole purpose of sharing the joy of golf as a social sport. As the course is only four kilometres long, the aim is to complete all nine holes twice. Additionally, once a year, the commemorative Sir Henry Galway Cup — a 36-hole-stroke play event — is also held in honour of its founder.

Although far from tropical, St Helena’s Tungi Distillery is a one-of-a-kind craft bar.

Located near the former castle moat, Tungi, the name of which stems from an 1850’s whisky made of prickly pear, utilises the island’s natural fruits and herbs to distill some of the Atlantic’s finest gins and whiskys. Before 2006, distilling alcohol was a part-time hobby for military personnel who settled on the island for extended periods of time. Therafter, Paul and Sally Hickling seized the opportunity to make craft spirits on the island permanently and now offer tours for as little as R94 per person.

While not quite Mauritius, with charcoal-black sand and ice-cold water, Sandy Bay Beach is worth a stroll, if not for a unique selfie on the sand.

Known as the Black Beach, it is the ideal spot for beach activities such as a family picnic and, although there is a dangerous undercurrent, swimming can be done under supervised conditions. A walk along the beachfront leads to the popular Lot’s Wife’s Ponds hiking route.

For golf lovers, Saint Helena offers the most remote golf course on earth. More than a century old, the course was the brainchild of Sir Henry

sthelenatourism.com, shgc.org.sh

FLIGHT PLAN Airlink provides direct flights to Saint Helena each Saturday, departing from Johannesburg.

Excluding the weeks beginning 24 December and 31 December 2018, the airline will also provide additional weekly flights from December 2018 to April 2019. flyairlink.com

Explore One of the island’s greatest draws is its outdoor locations that are ripe for exploration. For a truly breath-taking experience, visit the Heart Shaped Waterfall, one of Saint Helena’s Seven Wonders.

At 90 metres high, the waterfall experiences heavy streams during the winter season and visitors can take a dip in its plunge pool before continuing on a hike. For those more enthusiastic about conservation, the Millenium Forest is a wondrous sight. The forest forms part of an earth project dedicated to restoring a previously destroyed plantation called the Great Wood during the colonial era. After resembling a landscape close to that of a desert, 10 000 new trees were planted in the area in 2012, taking up 35 of the 250 hectares of land allocated for the reforestation. In Jamestown, take a hike up Jacob’s Ladder or, as it is called by those in the know, the Eiffel Tower of Saint Helena. The ancient stone steps and steep gradient may seem impossible but once at the top, this site promises a view like no other on the the island.

From left: The black sand on Sandy Bay Beach is a sight to behold; Jacob’s Ladder is lit up at night by lamps.

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From top: The Boer Cemetery at Knollcomes; Colourful houses are a regular occurrence on the island.

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From nature to history, the Boer Cemetery is a must-visit for any South African history buff. As a result of overcrowding in the war camps of South Africa, the British transported 20 000 Boer prisoners to Saint Helena from 1899 to 1902. The grounds of the camp have now been converted into a memorial that pays tribute to the fallen soldiers.

Over in Longwood, stargazers can venture to Halley’s Observatory where Edmond Halley, the famed British astronomer, and friend to Sir Isaac Newton, built an observatory to document the constellations of the southern hemisphere in 1677.

Situated amongst the greenery of a mini forest, the remains of the observatory are watched over by a memorial plaque in ode to the great astronomer and his work. Close by, Longwood House stands tall, surrounded by gumtrees and — quite often — gusty winds. From 1815 to his death in 1821, Napoleon Bonaparte called Longwood House home, having been exiled to Saint Helena by the British after France lost the Battle of Waterloo. The house still carries the ornate decor and furniture, including the bed in which Bonaparte passed away, from when it was utilised as the emperor’s prison and has been transformed into a museum. sainthelenaisland.info 

Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: mantissthelena.com, Deuxdixital, David Stanley/Wikimedia Commons

GLOBETROTTER

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E S C A PA D E

All aboard Tourism has taken a turn toward the responsible – and the little coastal town of Gansbaai offers the ideal model for profit-making sustainability

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E S C A PA D E

South Africa’s tourism industry offers a lifeline in a sea of economic turmoil. In 2017, travel and tourism contributed 2.9% of South Africa’s gross domestic product (GDP), amounting to R136.1 billion and creating 1.5 million jobs. However, merely turning a profit is not enough. Taking responsibility for ensuring tourism is sustainable is crucial, with key priorities being education, conservation, social upliftment and job creation.

Recognising that good places to live are good places to visit, the small coastal town of Gansbaai is putting the principles of responsible tourism into action. Situated about 50 kilometres east of Hermanus,

Gansbaai is Africa’s mecca for the marine Big Five: Whale, shark, dolphin, seal and penguin.

Accommodation providers, tour operators and private landowners are all involved in conserving the breeding grounds of the endangered African penguin, the Cape fur seal, the southern right whale and the great white shark. And, in recognition of these endeavours, Gansbaai won the World Travel Market Africa (WTMA) Responsible Tourism Awards in 2015.

Within Gansbaai lies the Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, one of 26 members of the Walker Bay Fynbos Conservancy. Landowners have pooled their resources to conserve 16 000 hectares of lowland fynbos and forest as well as promote education, job creation and empowerment in the local community.

Upon arrival, frogs croak a throaty welcome from the ponds and pools that adorn the landscaped indigenous gardens around the aptly named Garden Lodge, which, like the Forest Lodge and the two private villas that can also be found in the reserve, are set amongst 2 500 hectares of pristine fynbos, studded in 1 000-year-old milkwood forests. Of the Cape Floral Kingdom’s 9 000 fynbos plants, Grootbos conserves 800 species. Named as one of National Geographic’s Unique Lodges of the World, Grootbos Private Nature Reserve won

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PIT STOPS 1 Book your stay at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, grootbos.com 2 Head for the waters – and whales and penguins and sharks with Dyer Island Cruises, whalewatchsa.com 3 Take the deepsea plunge with Marine Dynamics, sharkwatchsa.com 4 Give back to the community with Masakhane’s Township Tours, 078 717 6224

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E S C A PA D E Previous page: The pretty coast of Gansbaai. This page: A humpback whale launches into the air. Inset: Visitors to the town enjoy a sighting of dolphins.

Next page, clockwise from top: One of Gansbaai’s Big Five – the African penguin; A young woman works at the Maskhane Community Farm, one of the destinations on the Masakhane township tour; Shark-cage diving is just one of many activities to enjoy in the town.

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E S C A PA D E

the World Tourism Market Award for Poverty Reduction in 2015 and was voted the Best for Accommodation in 2017.

Aptly, a bouquet of proteas awaits visitors in their suites and the walls are bedecked in botanical photographs taken by the owner’s father, Heiner Lutzeyer. The leather couch, russet armchairs and stripy cushions add earthy shades of brown, beige and strawberry while a mosquito net drapes the crisp white linen of the bed and the glowing embers in the cast-iron fireplace takes in the chill from outside.

Established in 2004, the Grootbos Foundation runs the reserve’s non-profit activities, which include conservation, entrepreneurship, sustainable agriculture, tourism and sport.

Every week, the Football Foundation coaches 2 000 young people in the surrounding areas in football, netball, hockey and athletics. Siyakhula Organic Farm, situated on the property, employs a full-time staff of eight, who sell their produce to the lodges at Grootbos. Guests enjoy the farm’s honey, eggs and fresh produce as well as spring water bottled on the property to minimise single-use plastic bottles. The Green Futures programme provides

Words: Laurianne Claase; Photography: Courtesy images

adult education in guiding, hospitality and indigenous gardening. Selected students learn how to grow vegetables and propagate plants, and the proceeds from the indigenous plant nursery fund their studies.

One of the many tours offered by Grootbos is Living the Future, a tour that introduces guests to the work of the foundation. Guide Ally Nkosinathi Msweli is originally from Umtata in the Eastern Cape but has lived in Gansbaai since 2004. He was one of Green Future’s third batch of graduates and describes how, in just one year, he improved his English, memorised the Latin botanical names, acquired his driver’s licence, learnt to use a computer and grasped the fundamentals of tour guiding before going on to work as a guide for Grootbos. Now, he runs his own business offering township tours to Masakhane. ‘Things that are impossible are possible here at Grootbos,’ Ally observes.

Stretching from De Kelders at Gansbaai and along the coast to the Klein River estuary, Walker Bay is one of the world’s most famous whale-watching destinations.

Humpback and Bryde’s whales can be seen year round while southern right whales arrive from the Antarctic in July to calve in the quiet, warm waters of SA’s east coast before returning to their feeding grounds in November.

There is no better way to see these gentle giants than in a custom-built whale-watching boat with award-winning Dyer Island Cruises, accompanied by a marine biologist.

Dyer Island Cruises is involved in marine conservation, seabird rescue and educational school tours, and provides training and job opportunities in tourism for members of the local community. Its sister company, Marine Dynamics, itself a winner of the African Responsible Tourism Awards in 2016, offers shark-cage diving experiences.

Some eight kilometres offshore, Dyer Island supports the world’s sixth largest colony of endangered African penguins while Geyser Rock is home to some 60 000 seals, one of the largest colonies of Cape fur seals in the country. On the way there, at Shark Alley, a channel between Dyer Island and Geyser Rock, great white sharks are aplenty because of the abundance of food, and a scattering of shark cage-diving boats is not an uncommon sight. Great whites can grow up to 11 metres in length and it is estimated that there are only 5 000 great white sharks in the world, with some 2 000 of the population to be found in South African waters — another reason why Gansbaai is a bucket-list destination.

Gansbaai and its responsible tourism initiatives prove that profit and principle can co-exist, delivering a winning formula for tourists, operators, the community and the environment, and providing a template for the future of tourism in Africa. 

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INTO THE WILD

Rise of the guardians In a semi-desert region of South Africa, a group of dedicated individuals are working towards the conservation of two of the world’s most majestic wild cats

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INTO THE WILD

Here, in the Klein Karoo, you would not call the vegetation lush by any stretch. Yet, there is plenty of it, many with medicinal and other uses.

Driving through a valley between two hills in Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, situated off the R62 in Montagu, just three hours’ away from Cape Town, the difference between the north- and south-facing slopes is clear: The south is slightly more green as it is cooler.

The vegetation changes quickly from one area to the next. The sosatie bos (Crassula rupestris) is beautiful with its leaves perfectly positioned at 90 degrees but it is the haaibekkies (Gibbaeum pubescens) that I find fascinating. They only grow in stony patches of mineral quartz and, when they pollinate, form a little capsule or pouch of fruit that remains closed and holds the seeds until it rains. Then, the pouch opens up and disperses the seeds. The leaves are fused at the base and look like the head of a shark, hence their common name — but that is the furthest animal from my mind right now.

We are slowly approaching the south-western side of Sanbona; the most undisturbed by humans. This is the conservation area, untouched, and where animals can roam with little to no human interaction. There is more than 200 kilometres of road network on Sanbona but we have not even driven half of them yet.

We are tracking two young subadult lion of about four years old to where they are taking a siesta in some dense bushes. They will be moved to another reserve shortly as part of lion management but, for now, the two take to mischievous acts of stalking and killing giraffe and other animals for food.

Watching them go in for a kill, however, is not why we are here. Lion poaching is becoming more popular and lion management and conservation, especially in the Karoo, are a top priority.

Lion genetics have also become weak and Sanbona’s Wildlife team, under the leadership of General Manager Paul Vorster, strives to help sustain a healthy lion population on the reserve. As part of greater lion conservation, Sanbona is a member of the Lion Management Forum (LiMF), which has most reserves and protected areas — whether state-owned or private entities — as members. It is through management platforms like these that lion can be moved between reserves to ensure metapopulation management through genetic flow between parks and reserves.

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Previous page: A rare sighting of the elusive cheetah coalition at Sanbona. This page, from left: The flowering haaibekkies add a touch of colour to the semi-arid landscape; A male lion finishing off the remains of a kill; Two of Sanbona’s beautiful white lion.

lion. ‘The two young males are very successful hunters and would naturally split from their pride as their father would kick them out of his territory and they would have the urge to establish a pride of their own,’ he says.

‘As there is only one pride at Sanbona, this would mean the two young males would challenge their father for his territory and lionesses. These challenges would eventually result in conflict that could lead to death and inbreeding.’ Hence the need to translocate the young males to another suitable reserve where they are able to contribute to that area’s lion population through genetics and pride establishment.

The core lion population at Sanbona will be three once the subadults are relocated, however, the reserve is able to accommodate up to six.

When new lions are introduced to the reserve, they are first placed in a small boma area before they are let into the wild in order for them to acclimatise to their new surroundings and bond with members of their new pride. But the management of these majestic animals does not stop there. Dedicated team members track and monitor their movements and activity with other lion and animals. Human intervention is only done when the animal is harmed or endangered through human actions, for

example, if a lion is caught in a fence. All other interactions, such as fights with other lion or a broken leg through natural processes are left as is. Management of the lion are done in their natural environment and all logs are kept for research purposes.

‘In the past, we have had final-year Conservation Management students from institutions such as Nelson Mandela Metropolitan University (NMMU), University of Cape Town (UCT), Stellenbosch University and Rhodes University, spend their practical year working at the reserve,’ says Paul.

‘During this year, they gain a variety of experience in all aspects of conservation management as part of their university-related experiential training.’ In addition, Sanbona also collaborates on conservation efforts with institutions and organisations such as the Endangered Wildlife Trust (EWT), CapeNature, Wilderness Foundation Africa, World Wildlife Fund (WWF) and the Southern African Wildlife Management Association (SAWMA).

It is not only white lion that Sanbona focuses on, though. In 2003, two small prides of tawny lion were reintroduced into the area for the first time in more than 300 years. The tawny lion roamed the majority of Sanbona, hunting, EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 53

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forming prides and fighting. During this time, two white lion were gifted to Sanbona and integrated with the tawny lion on the reserve.

Later, many lion were relocated to allow this integrated pride to establish themselves at Sanbona and, ever since, both white and tawny lion have been born here.

In addition to lion conservation, the reserve has a detailed Biodiversity Management Plan for all species inhabiting the area, including fauna and flora. This plan includes strict limitations on the number of animals that are allowed into the reserve as it is situated in a semi-arid environment, which makes it unpredictable in terms of rainfall. Vegetation growth is often sparse and slow to recover after pressures such as droughts and herbivory, which means there is less food for herbivores than in similar-sized areas in other

parts of South Africa. As antelope species are the preferred prey of lion and cheetah, predator numbers are determined by the number of herbivores in the area.

‘When looking at the predator-prey ratio on the reserve, it is important to keep in mind the variety of small and large predators that occur at Sanbona. Brown hyena, caracal, jackal, cheetah and leopard will compete for smaller antelope species such as steenbok, duikers, klipspringers and springbok while cheetah, leopard and lion will compete for medium- to large-sized antelope like red hartebeest, kudu, oryx and young eland.

Giraffe, adult eland and zebra fall prey to lion,’ explains Paul. It is for this reason that lion and cheetah populations are monitored. If allowed to grow without limitation, the lion and cheetah populations would impact the number of herbivores, causing population crashes for prey and predator.

As with the lion at Sanbona, the number of cheetah at the reserve is also fairly small. Currently, the core cheetah population consists of two females and one male, however, the reserve can accommodate up to four adults. Solitary creatures, cheetah are often only found in pairs when two brothers form a coalition. Even females only tend to raise their cubs

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for between 18 months and two years of age, before they are expected to survive on their own.

Cheetah are known to man as the fastest animal on land with recorded speeds of between 109.4 to 120.7 kilometres per hour, depending on the terrain on which they are running. Here at Sanbona, however, the cheetah utilise a variety of terrain, moving over open land, mountains and through valleys, often travelling larger distances than what they might have in the Savannah areas, as they look for prey that is more dispersed.

Possibly due to the varying terrain, they are also larger than in other areas. Yet, while tracking an elusive cheetah with Casper Bester, one of the guides who has worked at the reserve for four years now, it seems the cheetah here move as fast as any on less harsh terrain.

From left: White and tawny lion coexist in one pride at Sanbona; General Manager Paul Vorster with a male cheetah who was immobilised for fertility/sperm level testing, which provided an opportunity to collar him for spatial and feeding ecology research.

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve offers four accommodation options to enjoy a true Karoo safari experience.

Activities range from game drives and bird watching to wilderness walks and boat safaris, and knowledgable guides and conservationists are at hand to enrich your experience. For more information, visit sanbona.com.

‘Cheetah at Sanbona can reach a top speed of around 90 kilometres an hour,’ says Casper.

‘Because of the harshness of the terrain at Sanbona, the cheetah utilise the topography and have adapted to it by stalking their prey and even hunting uphill.’

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‘On the rocky mountain slopes, they would be running slower compared to, for example, a dry pan,’ adds Paul. ‘They adjust their speed to ensure they do not waste unnecessary energy or risk injury whilst hunting.’

As of 2016, cheetah have officially been declared an endangered species with as few as 7 100 of the cats thought to be remaining in the wild. As such, Sanbona’s Biodiversity Management Plan is crucial to the conservation of both cheetah and lion.

As part of the Management Plan, Casper says, Sanbona conducts an annual game census of the entire reserve each September, that provides an indication of the number of animals and their locations. This data is analysed to provide insight into certain trends within the animal populations and vegetation.

‘This allows us to see how impacts, such as drought and predation on herbivores, has an effect every year,’ says Paul. ‘The census is conducted by flying transects in a helicopter and counting and recording each animal seen as well as logging its GPS location.’ The data is then logged on to a computer where Sanbona’s Conservation and Wildlife Management team can extract information for research and management purposes.

Although Sanbona operates four lodges for commercial purposes, its main premise

is conservation and its staff contingent includes an ecologist, conservation managers, a security manager, field staff and an anti-poaching team. In addition to the team’s conservation and wildlife management tasks, they also conduct research on the reserve and facilitate other researchers from various institutions. Postgraduate studies at Sanbona — on vegetation impacts, Riverrine rabbits, brown hyena, large predators, giraffe and elephants — have taken place through partnerships with institutions such as UCT, Stellenbosch University, Rhodes University and NMMU. On foot, we have finally managed to catch up with the cheetah, who has found respite from the harsh sun beneath the branches of a tree perched on a mountain slope. Mere metres away, its elegance and poise belie its predatory behaviour. ‘What a majestic creature,’ a fellow traveller muses and we all nod in agreement.

As we slowly retreat back the way we’ve come, I say a silent thank you to the guides, conservationists and other team members at Sanbona who have dedicated their lives to ensuring these and other amazing creatures of the wild will still be around for generations to come. 

Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Casper Bester, Zainab SvR, Courtesy images

From top: A cheetah stretches beneath a tree at Sanbona, where guests, under supervision, may expect to encounter them mere metres away while on guided walks; The semi-arid landscape on the reserve is not one where wildlife is expected to be found.

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Free spirit Set the course for adventure in crisp, lightweight styles

Less than an hour from the city streets of Cape Town’s central business district is Spier, one of the oldest wine farms in South Africa, dating back to 1692. Yet there’s more to Spier than its rich heritage and endless spaces for exploration. It’s conservation and sustainability efforts, including ethical farming, farm-to-table cuisine and support for the local community and arts, define it as one of the Western Cape’s most environmentally friendly destinations.

Part of this appeal also lies in its exclusive experiences, including that of Eagle Encounters, a raptor rehabilitation, conservation and education project that is situated on the premises but operated independently. Here, guests can enjoy interactive flying shows as well as encounters with birds of prey and small mammals while learning more about how these animals keep the ecosystem balanced. spier.co.za, eagle-encounters.co.za

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Three little letters ‘Eco’. That’s all it takes to assuage consciences and persuade people to part with their hard-earned cash. But how to tell whether or not a tourism destination is truly eco-friendly?

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Ecotourism is the new travel buzzword as a growing number of people are becoming more conscious of their carbon footprint. But according to the director of Ecosafaris Namibia, Felix Vallat, travellers can be lied to. They are not from the area, they do not necessarily have the skills to judge — and they are on holiday, which means heavy research is probably the last thing on their minds.

Surely there must be a simple way to separate the good from the bad?

‘An ecotourism destination should provide positive experiences for both visitors and hosts, direct financial benefits for conservation, and financial benefits and empowerment for local people,’ says Enver Duminy, CEO of Cape Town Tourism. ‘On a larger scale, it must raise sensitivity to the host country’s political, environmental and social climate.’

The good Thirty years ago, large areas of Namibia were decimated by poaching, poor farming practices, and conflict between farmers and wildlife. Most of this occurred as the land was largely privately owned. After independence, internal borders were removed and rural people were given rights over wildlife and other resources, such as lumber and paper made from materials found in the forest. ‘These rights allowed the sustainable hunting of wildlife, which made meat available without poaching,’ says a spokesperson for the Namibian Association of Community Based Natural Resource Management Support Organisations (NACSO).

Over in the Huab River Valley in north-west Namibia, The Torra Conservancy has established a financial compensation scheme to reimburse farmers for the loss of livestock as a result of predators and employs local game guards to protect wildlife from potential poachers.

And this practice is taking place in South Africa too. Wild Life and Environment Society of South Africa (WESSA) has taken the Blue Flag South Africa environmental coastal68 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION FOUR 2018

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management programme one step further, by employing 200 previously disadvantaged youth from Cape Town as lifesavers and security guards. ‘We are giving them skills and accredited training to improve both their environment and themselves,’ says the general manager of the ecotourism unit at WESSA, Vincent Shacks.

And when local people are making a profit from the natural environment, they are more inclined to protect it. The result? A sustainable environment and increased wildlife numbers.

One other fundamental principle of ecotourism is educating visitors and increasing their awareness of the environment. ‘Your hotel should tell you why their product is different to that of the last place you stayed at,’ says Vincent. ‘For instance, that could mean using a weaker reading light because it runs on a smaller battery that requires less solar power.’

Another example is White Desert, a company that flies small groups of people from Cape Town to Antarctica in a Gulfstream private jet for adventure trips lasting up to eight days.

‘When I visited the interior of Antarctica, I realised how extraordinarily beautiful it was and how few people had actually seen it —

just a few polar explorers and scientists,’ says founder Patrick Woodhead. During the evenings at their camp, Patrick and his colleagues offer lectures on the history of Antarctica, its wildlife and the early explorers of the region. ‘Whereas before it was an abstract notion, now it is something that really means something to them,’ he explains. ‘This intrinsically means that they are going to be interested in what happens there.’

The bad Sadly, some businesses operating in the tourism industry use the fashionable ‘eco’ label as a way to market conventional tourism with only superficial changes. Which is why it is important to read between the lines.

‘If the surrounding environment needs to remain untouched to retain its value then a hotel should not be encouraging mass tourism,’ explains Daniel Landi, founder of The Academy Hout Bay and former Edexcel Examiner for GCSE and A-level Geography. ‘This means more people will visit than the environment can handle, which, in itself, goes against the ethos of ecotourism.’

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EASY ECO EVALUATION Ensure a service provider is truly eco-friendly with this checklist: Locally sourced food Employs local people Proper waste management system Monitors energy use Preserves the environment and local culture

No excuses If only a limited number of guests can stay at a hotel and its profits need to be funnelled back into the protection of the environment then surely it is not going to be a profit-making entity, right?

Operating in Antarctica is expensive, from a logistical point of view, and very few people can afford to go on Patrick’s trips. However, if his trips were more cost effective, he would be accused of mass tourism, which damages the environment. Yet Vincent argues there are ways in which ecotourism actually saves money. ‘The “greenest” camp I have ever visited in Botswana was one where the owner was trying to save money by restricting the amount of energy he used, sourcing local materials because it was cheaper than importing them from South Africa, and hiring local staff as it was more cheap to transport them from neighbouring villages than from further afield.

‘Without him even meaning to, his camp became the greenest in the Delta, and his guests appreciated its authenticity.’

The bottom line is that, in the long term, it will cost more money to repair a damaged environment than to protect it now. And if a pristine holiday destination is what attracts the eco-traveller in the first place, it is then in every destination’s best interest to keep both its communities and its natural resources in immaculate condition. 

Words: Lisa Abdellah; Photography: Sho Hatakeyama, Bernard Hermant, Gem Laurius, Nikoline Arns and Josh Hild/Unsplash, Zainab SvR

providers. For example, by finding out how waste is managed. Often, recycling is separated where guests can see it but once it is taken behind the scenes, it is all dumped in the same place. In addition, staff should know and care about how much energy the hotel is using.

‘This needs to be monitored,’ explains Vincent.

‘The environment is complex and resilient, which means it may buffer the ill effects for a number of years before it becomes noticeable.’

Another question to ask is whether the tour operator being used offsets their carbon emissions.

For example, Patrick removes all the waste he and his visitors take to Antarctica then recycles it back in Cape Town. His company also sponsors forestry programmes in Indonesia and the Amazon rainforest.

One surefire way to tell whether a hotel is the real deal or not is whether it is certified.

There are many travel and tourism certification programmes where an external auditor rates aspects such as environmental management, cultural resources protection and socioeconomic responsibilities. In Africa, programmes include Blue Flag South Africa, Fair Trade Tourism and The Botswana Ecotourism Certification System.

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TOP TIPS

GOOD VIBES ONLY Make a positive impact by following these conscious travel tips

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

2

Remember to conserve both water and electricity, even when checking in at a five-star establishment.

Also refrain from buying plastic — and recycle wherever possible.

To get from A to B, rent a bicycle instead of hailing a cab, although walking is always first prize. Not only is it better for the environment and health but there are a myriad incredible things to discover when on foot.

Words: Simon Capstick-Dale; Illustration: Freepik

Who owns and manages the accommodation? If the hotel or lodge upskills or employs people from local communities then a stay there will help give back to the citizens of that destination.

7

BEWARE OF WILDLIFE TOURS

Most travellers dream of riding an elephant or diving with sharks but often wildlife tour operators do more harm than good. Before booking these activities, look into the organisations or companies offering these services and how they treat the animals concerned.

As guests in a foreign destination, travellers need to be respectful of the customs, beliefs and way of life of the locals as well as mindful of the various prevalent cultures.

LEARN THE LOCAL LANGUAGE

CUT OUT THE CARBON

SUPPORT THE COMMUNITY

4

5

BE EMPATHETIC

Many tourists unfairly expect foreigners to always understand and communicate in English.

Locals often become more hospitable when surprised with a greeting or question in their mother tongue.

STRAY FROM THE BEATEN TRACK

Thousands of tourists endanger ecologically sensitive sites every day by trying to capture that perfect selfie. Avoid crowds and queues — and capture unique memories — by opting to take photographs at lesser-known attractions in the same city.

GIVE AND TAKE

9

Volunteering to build housing for disadvantaged communities, collecting trash or teaching kids in a local village not only benefits the indigenous people of a country but also the traveller, who will be introduced to new experiences.

LIFT LOCAL BUSINESS

Where travellers spend their money can be a big help to local communities. Put money into the pockets of people who need it most by buying mementos on the street, staying in a familyrun guest house or eating at a hole-in-the-wall restaurant.

THE ‘GOLDEN RULE’

Travel drops you straight into the lives of other people, sometimes very different from people back home. Kindness and respect is a language understood everywhere so don’t be afraid to use it.

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T R AV E L H AC K E R

RE - FILL IT UP Avoid adding plastic waste to already crowded landfills by investing in a BPA-free water bottle that can be refilled. This one is also dishwasher safe and sports a lid handle that easily attaches to packs and backpacks with a caribiner.

Capestorm Flipstraw 750 ml Tritan Water Bottle, R 99.90, sportsmanswarehouse.co.za

LEAVE LESS OF A FOOTPRINT Takeoffs and landings produce most of an airplane’s carbon emissions. Booking non-stop flights whenever possible will reduce your carbon footprint or sign up for one of the International Air Transport Association’s (IATA) member airlines, which offer carbon offset programmes that invest in carbon reduction projects to neutralise aircrafts’ carbon emissions.

EAT LOCAL Support eco-conscious practices by opting for restaurants that source local and organic foods. If cost is a concern, sustainable food can also be found at local markets at half the price.

Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Freepix, Courtesy images

ENERGY SAVER GIVE BACK Holidays that give back to the community of the destination are becoming more and more popular.

Whether it is a pit stop on your itinerary or a full-on voluntourism vacation, providing much-needed supplies or helping to restore homes makes a huge difference to the local communities.

Turn off the lights, the heat or aircon, and the television when leaving the hotel, and place the ‘Do Not Disturb’ sign on the door.

This saves on electricity and cuts down on chemical cleansing agents that are used every time a room is cleaned and turned down.

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THE LIST

SLOW (DOWN) TOWNS

NIEU BETHESDA Great Karoo Towns at the end of a road hold a certain attraction as it limits visitors to only those travellers keen to go there. Nieu Bethesda is a case in point as this little dorp slumbers at the end of a tar road about 20 minutes off the friendly N9 highway. It epitomises the Karoo and its people, with a scattering of period houses set in a fertile valley at the foot of the Compassberg.

There are no street lights, less than a thousand inhabitants, stands are the size of Dutch farming plots and a daily dose of ‘lei-water’ from a furrow irrigation system is de riguer. The Owl House and Camel Yard rate as the main attraction here and houses a surreal collection of Helen Martins’ unique and rather bizarre concrete-and-glass sculptures.

There is also quirk aplenty in Nieu Bethesda and anyone who has visited The Brewery and Two Goats Deli will attest to this. Home-made cheese platters and hearty local fair top the menu, with kudu salami well worth a fling. The beer is great, especially the Karoo Pale Ale, and the dark-roasted coffee may just lead to insomnia. The local Fossil Exploration Centre is a trip back to the Jurassic Period with life-sized models of prehistoric animals that once roamed the Karoo. The region is also famed for its meandering gravel roads and has become a favourite haunt for gravel riders and mountain bikers in search of peaceful pedals and endless headspace. nieu-bethesda.com EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 77

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WILLOWMORE Baviaanskloof Willowmore has, by geographical default, become the ‘western gateway’ into the Baviaanskloof region and the past decade has seen the town morph from farming into far more than just another Kloof-side dorpie.

Gone are the days of Ricoffy and two-toned khaki, with classy guest houses, craft shops and a full gamut of eateries and delis dotting the main road.

Willowmore originally started off as a trading centre in 186 4 and soon became one of the largest mohair-producing regions in the world.

More recently, the town has transformed into an eco-holiday destination, with a pleasant climate and a relatively crime-free environment.

Local tourism is based around the ‘Kloof’, with day trippers and mountain bikers flocking to explore the vast Baviaanskloof Mega-Reserve, a World Heritage Site of staggering size and diversity. Fat trackers can saddle up to crank all the way from Willowmore to Patensie, however, a support vehicle is needed to fend off the buffalo and black rhino.

A leisurely 4×4 ruck along the meandering route via the Baviaanskloof ranges provides ample opportunity to spot verraux eagle, klipspringer and the chacma baboons for which the kloof was named. Otherwise, boot up and take one of a dozen day walks or multiday hikes such as the Leopard Trail, one of South Africa’s premier hikes. baviaans.co.za, leopardtrail.org

PAPENDORP Namaqua West Coast Very few people know of this tiny mission village — often referred to as Viswater by the locals — that is set at the mouth of the Olifants River. The estuary itself has been declared a Ramsar site to protect a rich and diverse aquatic bird life — there are 138 recorded species here — while the pristine beach at the mouth is only accessible on foot.

Traditional fishing from wooden ‘bakkies’ still sustain a portion of the community, an activity that is being developed as an increasingly popular local tourism product. Day hikes to the bird hide and archaeological remains of shell middens, or a slow wander along the estuary shores, allows for a unique exploration of the village and lifestyle harking back to a forgotten West Coast era.

Visitors can don oilskins and jump into a fishing bakkie boat with Oom Piet then row via the channels onto the estuary to experience traditional fishing for West Coast bokkoms: The small fish are salted and dried, making for a high-protein delicacy in these parts. There is also the option of an ocean fishing experience from Doring Bay, with the bonus of fresh, sustainable reef fish for the braai that evening. The ocean-side trail from Papendorp to Strandfontein and Doring Bay is a top outdoor attraction too and the cliff-top footpath is popular with hikers, trail runners and mountain bikers.

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ST LUCIA iSimangaliso St Lucia’s claim to fame as Africa’s largest estuarine system — and the fact that it boasts 220 kilometres of non-stop beach all the way to Mozambique — makes it a one-of-a-kind dorp. Packaged as part of the natural grandeur is that typical KwaZulu-Natal north-coast village vibe, with adventure operators, surf stores and ice cream parlours galore.

The town itself is sprawled amidst the aqua embrace of Lake St Lucia and the Indian Ocean, right on the wilderness edge of a 332 000-hectare World Heritage Site known as iSimangaliso (meaning ‘place of miracle and wonder’). This means the locals often have to contend with truly African problems, including hippo in the main street and possibly leopards in the back garden.

The breathtaking Eastern Shores section of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park brims with excellent trails suited to mountain biking, trail running and hiking.

The area is relatively safe as it is outside the dangerous game section of the park but walkers may well bump into a leopard or two (fortunately, they tend to be very wary of people). Kayaking, boat trips and ‘birding by bike’ adventures are offered by local operators and the beaches are open to swimmers and surfers, although care should be taken as the strong tides and rips may pose danger. The nearby Maphelane Dune is one of the must-do beach hikes. isimangaliso.com

Words and photogaphy: Jacques Marais

BERGVILLE Drakensberg The beyond-beautiful village of Bergville is nestled within the rugged foothills of the Drakensberg ranges, approximately mid-way between Johannesburg and Durban. This bustling dorp is situated in an active agricultural community, with dairy, beef, maize and wheat farms all round, and backdropped in the distance by the bristling peaks of the Royal Natal National Park’s Amphitheatre.

The park forms part of the uKhahlamba World Heritage Site and makes for a natural playground beyond compare, with untold trails and adventure options. Everything goes, from breath-taking hikes through fern-filled forests and mountain-bike cranks amidst mountain creeks to top-class birding and a treasure-trove of San rock art.

Those keen to escape the small-town vibe can head even further into the hills to visit Sungubala Eco Camp, situated 49 kilometres from Bergville.

Headspace and tranquillity rule here amidst a smattering of thatched rondawels and a communal lounge-cum-kitchen, set on a secluded farm in the northern Drakensberg. The trails brim with eyepopping views and an endless supply of sub-alpine oxygen while the All Out Adventure’ Centre, eight kilometres from Sungubala, offers great adventures, including a 900-metre aerial cable slide through the tree-tops, a selection of well-marked mountain bike trails, zorbing or a high-ropes course. sungubala.co.za, alloutadventures.co.za EDITION FOUR 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 79

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COMPETITION

WIN

A two-night stay at Tintswalo Lapalala Wilderness worth

R35 600

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To win a two-night stay at Tintswalo Lapalala Wilderness, inclusive of all meals, house beverages and two safari activities per day, email the answer to the following question to competitions@anapublishing.com:

The family friendly Tintswalo Lapalala Wilderness consists of seven luxury tented suites with private plunge pools situated in the malaria-free Waterberg of the Limpopo Province. The lodge is environmentally conscious and operates off the grid, presenting a sustainable wilderness and safari experience within an expansive 44 500-hectare reserve. In addition to a game-rich reserve and a myriad wilderness experiences for the entire family, including daily game drives, guided bush walks and a Children’s Activity Programme, Tintswalo Lapalala Wilderness also offers excursions to the Wildlife Breeding programmes and the community-based Lapalala Wilderness School. Visit tintswalo.com/lapalala/gamelodge/ for information on the amazing launch offer running until 31 March 2019.

Photography: Courtesy image

Where is Tintswalo Lapalala Wilderness situated?

Terms and conditions: 1 The prize is vaild until 31 December 2019, subject to availability. 2 The prize is not valid during local school holidays, public holidays, Christmas, New Year and Easter as well as during peak season from 15 December to 15 January. 3 The prize is not redeemable for cash or transferable to parties other than the intended recipient/s. 4 Entrants must reside within the Republic of South Africa. 5 Transport, transfers, flights, premium-branded alcohol, gratuities, laundry and other additional expenses and unspecified items are not included. 6 For full terms and conditions, see page 6.

80 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION FOUR 2018

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Rewriting Africa’s narrative African Independent magazine is a pioneering resource content publication that seeks to change the narrative of the continent by presenting the true and deeper stories driving the African sphere.

The magazine has a strong focus on technology, business and investment in Africa, in addition to covering the lifestyles of the biggest industry champions on the continent.

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2018/12/03 12:04

B O N V O YAG E

The drought crisis in Cape Town has been the catalyst for me to evaluate my ecological footprint.

Having to not only restrict but also adjust how I use water was eyeopening and even after the water restrictions were minimally eased, I had already changed my habits for the better.

In the same period, I noticed many restaurants and hotels in Cape Town had been slow to respond to the call to save water.

It appeared as though they had been waiting for confirmation that it was a false alarm and they could continue operations as though the drought was merely a bad dream. But that confirmation never came — and never will.

The impact on tourism was felt where it hurts most: Foot traffic and the bottom line. It was a tough lesson to learn yet, as the saying goes, necessity is the mother of invention. And so too was it with the Cape Town tourism sector.

During a recent stay in lovely Franschhoek, just outside Cape Town, it was heartwarming to see and hear first-hand how the town had responded to the water crisis.

At one boutique guest house and fine dining destination, the chef explained that the water crisis was the catalyst for the establishment to re-envision the entire operation.

Franschhoek chefs came together and discussed their concerns and possible solutions around the use of less water in their kitchens.

One such suggestion called for residents of the town to allow the use of their gardens to chefs in the area. Chefs would then harvest and grow vegetable patches and, in return, the homeowners would receive fresh produce or a free

82 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION FOUR 2018

meal on a regular basis. It was the ultimate win-win for a town where restaurants on the main road have limited space to grow their own produce, often having to wait on deliveries of organic fruit and vegetables from other parts of the country. By partnering with the local community, the chefs would not only have an unlimited supply of produce but would also be able to keep their ecological footprint as small as possible.

Over the past decade, South Africa’s natural resources have been placed under a lot of strain and the scarcity of these resources often raises prices for consumers as well. As such, the onus is not only on suppliers but also others in the value chain — from hospitality vendors and tour operators to consumers — to contribute viable solutions that will ensure we live, work and play in a manner that does the least harm to the earth.

Gone are the days of waiting for a disaster or crisis to occur before taking action. As numerous documentaries and op-eds have illustrated, time is not on our side.

The earth’s resources have already been plundered by the generations before, creating the current limitations of food sources and damage to the environment.

We no longer have the luxury to operate as we did last year, last month or even last week.

And so, it is with this newfound knowledge of my own impact on the environment, that I urge you — no matter where your next flight or road trip leads — to tread lightly and conserve that destination for the next generation so they may enjoy the wonders and possibilities this earth has to offer. 

Words: Nathan Adams

Food for thought

SUBSCRIBE TO THE AFRICAN NEWS AGENCY FOR EXTENSIVE NEWS FROM THE AFRICAN CONTINENT African News Agency(ANA) is Africa’s first multimedia News-Wire syndication and PR Wire service.

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Lindiz van Zilla Editor-in-Chief Tel: +27214884411 Cell: +27 845572350 Email: lindiz.vanzilla@africannewsagency.com

2018/10/16 10:25

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