Explorer Intrepid
‘Nothing behind me, everything ahead of me, as is ever so on the road’ –Jack Kerouac
Edition Two 2018 | R35.50
HERE COMES THE SUN MPUMALANGA’S WILD ESCAPES
CAPE TOWN UNCOVERED | Top 9 pursuits BEYOND THE BLUE | Luxury and leisure in Seychelles EDITION T WO 2018
ADVENTURE AWAITS | South Africa’s lavish safari experiences TAKING FLIGHT | Two Saffas making aviation history PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY OUTDOOR WAREHOUSE, SPORTSMANS WAREHOUSE AND PERFORMANCE BRANDS
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DISCOVERY
BECAUSE ONLY 0.021347% OF THE WORLD’S SURFACE IS TARMAC
TERRAIN RESPONSE 2 The ingenious All-New Discovery is equipped for just about any driving situation. Activate the Terrain Response 2® system and it’ll reconfigure the transmission, suspension and traction settings accordingly. Providing optimum performance whatever the surface conditions. Perfect for exploring thoseparts of the world that aren’t tarmac. landrover.co.za
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On the cover
Sho’t left
ADVENTURE LAND Venture into the heart of Mpumalanga and experience the province like never before
20 Into the wild
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GIRL ABOUT TOWN Fall in love with Knysna — in all its natural glory
In focus FLYBOYS Take a trip around the world with Mike Blyth and James Pitman in their self-made, light sport aircraft
THE SPIRIT OF AFRICA Indulge in a luxury safari at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
Intrepid
What’s inside 4
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CONTENTS
Escapade RUN WILD
Snapshot
Conquer one of South Africa’s most challenging trail runs
SPACE RIDERS
Globetrotter HOT TROPICS Sun, sea and culture — why the Seychelles is still the ultimate holiday destination
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51
Bucket list CAPE TOWN: RELOADED Paint the Mother City red with this handy guide
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08 ED’S LETTER
72 TRAVEL HACKER
10 HOT SPOT
74 THE LIST
12 FINAL DESTINATIONS
80 COMPETITION
16 TRAVEL KIT
82 BON VOYAGE
Discover untouched landscapes with a cycle along the Namaqua Coastal Route
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Explorer Intrepid
EDITOR
Zainab Slemang van Rijmenant
EDITORIAL Copy Editors & Writers
Advertising Sales Executives
DESIGN Head of Design
Office Manager
Alexandra Uytenbogaardt, Farah Khalfe
Keith Hill, Kevin Petersen, Mandla Mangena, Mark Wessels, Peter Savage-Reid, Tony Malek
Susan Ball
Warren Uytenbogaardt
Designers
Mish-al van Rijmenant, Sheeth Hanief, Tariq Cassiem
DIGITAL Digital Content Producer Gavin Emmanuel
Subscription information
susan.ball@anapublishing.com
intrepidexplorer.co.za Contributing Writers
Junior Content Producer Sonwabo Macingwana
Elske Joubert, Fiona McIntosh, Fiona Zerbst, Jacques Marais, Melanie van Zyl, Simon Capstick-Dale, Zaahier Adams
ANA CEO
Editorial Office
5th Floor, Newspaper House, 122 St Georges Mall, Cape Town, 8001
Grant Fredericks
ANA CFO
Lisa de Villiers CA(SA)
ANA PUBLISHING COO Mark Keohane
ADVERTISING Advertising information
Intrepid Explorer is published by African News Agency (ANA) Publishing. Reproduction without permission is prohibited.
SUBSCRIPTIONS
021 488 4463
Head of Sales
One year for R100, including postage, across South Africa.
Kyle Villet
Printed by A division of Novus Holdings
ISSUE ONE 2018 COMPETITON WINNER
WIN!
SUN DESTINATIONS / AFRICA ON FOOT WILDERNESS TRAILS MARIËTTE BOTHA, SECUNDA
ENTERING COMPETITIONS IN INTREPID EXPLORER
Send an email to susan.ball@anapublishing.com with your full name and contact details. Write the keyword of the competition in the subject line. Competition terms and conditions
1 Competitions in Edition Two 2018 end on 8 October 2018. 2 No director, member, partner, employee, agent of, or consultant to the organisation and/or sponsor of the competition, including their advertising agencies, spouses, life partners, parents, siblings, children, business partners and associates, may enter this promotional competition. 3 All entrants must be resident in the Republic of South Africa. 4 Should the law or any other authority terminate a promotion or competition, no notice of termination shall be required and participants waive any rights hereto. 5 ANA Publishing reserves the rigt to vary, postpone, suspend or cancel the competition without notice. 6 Prizes are not transferable, may not be deferred or exchanged for cash or otherwise. 7 If any taxes, levies, duties or other charges are levied on a prize by a competenty authority, the winner will be liable for these and the prize value will not be increased to compensate for such charges. 8 Winners are randomly drawn using an automated system and the decision will be final. 9 To the extent that a license or permission is required in order to accept a prize, the winner must produce such licence or permission for inspection or the prize will be forfeited. 10 By accepting a prize, the winner indemnifies ANA Publishing, its directors, employees and promoters and sponsors against any damages of any nature whatsoever that may be suffered as a result of the prize and/or competition, including consequential damages and economic loss. 11 All other terms and conditions will be specified as per the competition entry mechanism.
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ED’S LETTER
Moseying up to elephants at the Knysna Elephant Park, a few kilometres outside of the town. Read more on page 36.
the family shared a laugh together — but only after we just missed being the snack for a pride of lions when my mom decided it was a good idea to wear a zebra-striped dress on safari. And in Mpumalanga, my husband and I experienced firsthand the hospitality of South Africans when our hosts at Kwa Madala Private Game Reserve generously catered to our very strict dietary requirements. It’s no surprise then that Mzansi continues to win big at travel awards and tops must-visit and best travel lists time and time again. Not only is our terrain unique but the country offers an astounding diversity of vacation spots from jagged, lush mountains and star-studded desert skies to powdery beaches and greenery aplenty. This issue is filled with all that homegrown goodness and more. And it is only fitting that the new look of Intrepid Explorer coincides with an issue about South African travel. After all, where does the joy and wanderlust of travel begin other than from our own backyard? @zainabslemang
We’re so proud to be supported by Outdoor Warehouse, Sportsmans Warehouse and Performance Brands, which includes First Ascent, Capestorm, OTG Active, African Nature and Second Skins. Scan each of the logos for a full list of stores across the country.
MORE TRAVEL | LOOK OUT FOR THIS AUGMENTED REALITY ICON FOR SPECIAL CONTENT. 8
DOWNLOAD the FREE IOL app
OPEN AR & SCAN the image
Photography: Mohammed Hoosain
Thinking of travel often conjures up imagery of aquamarine waters lapping at white sand, snowcapped mountains, exotic dishes with names you can hardly pronounce and alluring foreign accents. Yet, some of my most memorable travel experiences have taken place right here on South African shores. Family holidays in Port Elizabeth, my belated honeymoon to the Kruger National Park, a road trip to Knysna with friends, and numerous weekend forays to Fancourt, the Karoo and the Overberg with my siblings, all bring back fond memories. In Witsand, a small coastal town near the Breede River, my grandfather taught my five siblings and I how to go fishing. In Jeffreys Bay, strangers proffered a helping hand when there was no other accommodation to be found one late (and very cold) night. At Kruger,
INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION TWO 2018
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NEW TRANSIT DOWN JACKET RANGE
See more at www.ямБrstascent.co.za
HOT SPOT
Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Courtesy image
MODERN ALCHEMY
The Sri Sri Radha Radanath Temple, also known as the Temple of Understanding, has an architectural design that combines traditional, contemporary and futuristic elements. Built in the 1980s, the temple, shaped like a lotus plant, is regarded as the largest in Africa and is surrounded by beautiful gardens. But it is the awe-inspiring structure and exquisite decor that has drawn in excess of 2.5 million visitors. Marble tiles, gold-tinted windows, brass ornaments, crystal chandeliers, intricate carvings and gold-leaf details are decadent yet impressive. The Temple’s layout is imbibed with the ancient Vastu Purusha Mandala framework, a metaphysical plan that incorporates mathematics, diagrams and supernatural forces for generating design. It includes shapes such as circles, triangles, squares and octagons that hold spritual and philosophical symbolism and meaning. Visit for its beauty but stay for the sumptous vegetarian meals served at Govinda’s restaurant on the ground floor while the daily worship commences at 4:30 am. iskcondurban.net
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Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Courtesy image
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F I N A L D E ST I N AT I O N S
OUT AND ABOUT
BOT RIVER SPRING WEEKEND 1 & 2 SEPTEMBER Overberg, Western Cape
AFROFEST 22 – 24 SEPTEMBER Various locations, Cape Town
Head out to Bot River to experience the winelands like never before with a jam-packed weekend of activities and entertainment for the whole family. A perfect excuse to let your youthful spirit run wild is the Bull Race — a scavenger hunt for adults where you have to search for clues using a mobile app. Other highlights include yoga in the vineyards, live music, pony rides for the kids and a Fresh Farmer’s Market offering organic produce and flowers. If you are a serious foodie, the oxtail braai and calamari and steamed pork buns will be right up your ally. Individual activities need to be booked directly at each farm.
Immerse yourself in African culture during Heritage Weekend at this year’s AfroFest. Fifteen different locations in the Mother City will be transformed into exquisite artscapes where you can enjoy markets, fashion, crafts, food, and live bands and DJs. Celebrate Africa’s talent by listening to poetry readings, and watching homegrown entertainment.
R100 pp per day, quicket.co.za
Varied costs, theafrofest.com
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Discover your exceptional From the World's ďŹ nest Hotels, Lodges, Eco-Escapes, & Lifestyle Resorts, Mantis is synonymous with quality, excellence and distinction – a brand that will go beyond every expectation.
t +27 41 404 9300 | e reservations@mantiscollection.com | w mantiscollection.com
HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL 28 – 30 SEPTEMBER Hermanus, Western Cape 2ND HERITAGE HIKING EXTRAVAGANZA 23 SEPTEMBER Phuthaditjhaba, Free State Explore the stunning views of the Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State by embarking on this epic two-day hike. Pitch your tent, roast marshmallows over the fire and enjoy a tasty potijie with fellow hikers. Arrival and registration takes place on Friday 21 September and participants will remain in the same Rest Camp for the duration of the stay.
One of the most renowned eco-marine festivals in the Western Cape, this event attracts whale watchers from around the country – and across the world – to take in the spectacle. Exhibits on environmental protection will be on display as well as eco-marine talks on penguins, whales and more. Delicious food will also be on offer, and you can jam to live music and get festive with the street parade. Free, hermanuswhalefestival.co.za
Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: African News Agency (ANA)
F I N A L D E ST I N AT I O N S
R800 pp, computicket.com
www.wildfrontiers.com
GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH TAKING YOU TO THE HEART OF THE ACTION
LIFESTYLE AND OUTDOOR AFFAIR 22 – 24 SEPTEMBER Pretoria, Gauteng Head out to Leriba Hotel and Spa for a relaxing weekend in nature — with some adventure thrown in for good measure. Geared towards the whole family, expect mountain biking for the thrill-seekers, hunting for the wild at heart, and wine and olive tasting for the foodies. Sixty exhibitions of the best of outdoor life – such as vehicles, holiday destinations and camping equipment – will also be on offer. Tickets will also be available at the door for R100 per person. R90 pp, computicket.com 14 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION TWO 2018
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TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA
CONTACT US
reservations@wildfrontiers.com
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100
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T R AV E L K I T
ALL THE ESSENTIALS
AVALANCHE JUNIOR COSMIC 24” DISC MOUNTAIN BIKE (2018) Turn your kids into pro mountain bikers with the Avalanche Junior Cosmic Mountain Bike. Besides the fluorescent orange hue, the bike also has a number of other core features, including a sturdy alloy frame, Shimano 18 Speed Revo gear system and comfortable saddle seating — giving kids the confidence to conquer any terrain. R3 299.90, sportsmanswarehouseza, sportsmanswarehouse.co.za
BALLO SUNGLASSES
CALVARY SKULLS SCULPTURES Derived from the Latin word meaning ‘Place of the Skull’, Calvary Skulls offers unique animal skulls customised with hand carvings. Intricate and detailed, the carvings depict a story of how the animal was hunted and taps into the ancient art of carving bone. Each skull carries a distinct design that breathes new life into the sculpture. What better way to appreciate the hunted than to give it meaning in the afterlife?
From materials to design, Ballo eyewear is more than just a necessary accessory — these sunnies are iconic in the way they bring sustainable fashion to life. Ballo, meaning ‘I dance’ in Italian, lives by the mantra ‘nothing is wasted’. Each pair is made with recyclables, wooden offcuts, hemp and tree sap bio-resin. The classic, sleek look of the frames, patterns and lenses are the definition of boho chic. From R1 390,
balloct, ballo.co.za
POR, calvaryskulls, calvaryskulls@gmail.com
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CALVARY Latin word meaning “place of the skulls” This is my craft ~ It represents honoring the animal after it’s dead, seeing the beauty in its remains and maintaining respect for the life that has been... and giving it “new life”. Its also a reminder that we only live once* My skulls will be appreciated by the interior decorator, hunter, collector and animal lover alike. All my skulls are unique, because they are hand carved with the utmost love and care - not one design will be the same. The complete finished product can be purchased or send me one of your own skulls to be carved. It will get packaged and couriered to you anywhere in South Africa. Please send an email if interested or contact me on my cellphone. I trust that as an owner of one of my skulls, you will appreciate this ancient art of bone carving, as much as I did making it. Artist: -Yolandi Diesel-
Email: calvaryskulls@gmail.com | Cell: 072 665 7041 | Facebook: Calvary Skulls
T R AV E L K I T
WIN!
Win one of two copies of this book with the keyword ‘Birding’. Details on page 6. Ts&Cs apply.
NATURAL INSTINCTS THERMO ELECTRIC COOLER
BIRDING IN SOUTH AFRICA’S NATIONAL PARKS BY ROB LITTLE
From R1 119, outdoorwarehouseza, outdoorwarehouse.co.za
The first of its kind, this compact guide gives intricate accounts of birding in 19 of South Africa’s national parks. Inclusive of natural habitats as well as other insightful facts, the book offers a series of stunning photographs of rare bird species, with 640 of them spotted in the featured parks. There is also a special section at the end dedicated to the top 10 birds per park as well as a bird-watchers bucket list. R195,
jacanamedia, jacana.co.za
CC GOLDEN ALE Renowned for their gourmet pizza, Col’Cacchio has launched their own beer label with Devil’s Peak Brewing Co. This fruity ale is brewed with 100% South African hops, is easy on the palate and will leave you undoubtedly refreshed. Order a pint from Col’Cacchio stores (excluding halaal branches) and enjoy with your next slice of pizza. R32,
colcacchio, colcacchio.co.za
Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: Courtesy images
Ideal for true nature lovers, this thermo-electric cooler box weathers any expedition, come rain or shine. The cooler box is insulated, has 13 litres volume-space and 12 volts worth of cooling power. This piece of kit will not only keep your drinks ice cold but has other great features too, including cup holders and a lid-lock mechanism. Enjoy a cold one any time of the day.
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U N TA M E D
UNTOUCHED
The Western Cape’s Premier wildlife destination lies at the foot of the towering Warmwaterberg Mountains. More than a Big 5 wilderness reserve, it’s the vastness of the landscape, the alluring stillness and isolation amid raw beauty and boundless plains that make Sanbona unique.
U N F O R G E T TA B L E
Nestled amidst the lush vegetation in the South-Western corner of the majestic beauty that is the Kruger National Park, Jock Safari Lodge emerges at the pinnacle where the Mitomeni and Biyamiti rivers flow as one. A space for breath-taking wildlife sightings.
T +27 (0) 21 010 0028
T +27 (0) 13 010 0019
reservations@sanbona.com
reservations@jocksafarilodge.com
www.sanbona.com
www.jocksafarilodge.com PROPERTIES OF THE CALEO FOUNDATION
INTO THE WILD
The spirit of Africa
Immerse yourself in nature at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
Three things come to mind when thinking of a safari: Wild animals, a crackling fire and delicious meals. At Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, all this becomes a reality — and much more. Situated approximately 270 km outside the Mother City, the Reserve offers a fully immersive wildlife experience from the get-go. Upon arrival, guests who travel by 4×4 are able to make the journey themselves to one of the four lodges — Explorer Camp, Tilney Manor, Gondwana Family Lodge and Dwyka Tented Lodge — once entering the main gate. There is a welcome lounge at each lodge where guests will be greeted by the friendly Sanbona Wildlife Reserve team, and treated to an afternoon game
drive. Guests arriving after 4 pm will have the evening to relax and unpack, and can begin their adventure the following morning. EXPLORER CAMP With more than 58 000 hectares of indigenous landscape, the Reserve will no doubt captivate even the humblest of explorers. Each game drive through the heart of the Klein Karoo will take your breath away, providing you with the opportunity to spot the Big Five, rare bird species and gorgeous vegetation that shows off Africa’s true beauty. One of the definitive highlights of Sanbona Wildlife Reserve is that the wildlife experience does not end at the game
drive. The Explorer Camp allows adventurers to walk and camp in the veld amongst Africa’s natural gems, catch some shut-eye in luxuriously spacious tents, and gather round a campfire once the sun has set. Each walking tour takes around two days to accomplish and only operates during the summer, which means wild animal sightings are guaranteed. From R4 650 per adult sharing, per night TILNEY MANOR For those who prefer a more secluded stay, Tilney Manor is the ideal spot. Surrounded by desert flora and fauna, the lodge is home to six open-plan
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Words: Alexandra Uytenbogaardt; Photography: Courtesy images
Clockwise from top left: Tilney Manor offers luxury with a view; Comfort in the outdoors at the Explorer Camp; Dwyka Tented Lodge is a minimalistic haven; At Gondwana, a thatched roof, wooden finishes and wildlife accents pull together a modern sleeping area.
suites, each with its own veranda from which to soak up the African sun. If it gets too hot for comfort, take a dip in the sparkling flow pool situated right next to the lodge. Or indulge in a spa day at the Relaxation Retreat, which boasts a steam room and sauna. And to satisfy food cravings, all cuisine is especially prepared with a traditional Karoo flair. From R6 005 per adult sharing, per night GONDWANA FAMILY LODGE Ideal for the whole family, Gondwana Family Lodge is the perfect getaway for guests of all ages to enjoy a safari experience. Close to the Anysberg
mountaintops, the lodge offers interconnecting rooms, spacious play areas for the kids (indoors and outdoors) as well as a pool area. A definite must is the Kids on Safari programme where children can immerse themselves in fun yet educational activities about the Klein Karoo’s breathtaking landscapes and animals. The Relaxation Retreat is only a trot away and offers amazing therapies and treatments. From R6 005 per adult sharing, per night DWYKA TENTED LODGE Dwyka Tented Lodge takes traditional camping to a new level of luxury. Nestled between grand rock formations, the lodge boasts spacious tented cabins, each with its own wooden deck and deluxe jacuzzi. Cabin doors open to beautifully-lit trails that are easy to navigate to and from the main building. Choose from a broad selection of spa treatments while sipping on a glass of bubbly, order decadent treats from the
comfort of your boma or head over to the main lounge for a change of scenery and a scrumptious bite. From R6 760 per adult sharing, per night THE SAFARI NEVER STOPS Apart from thrilling game drives and relaxing retreats, Sanbona also has an abundance of other activities on offer. Take a tour of the prehistoric rock art of the Khoisan as well as incredible rock formations to fully appreciate the wonders of African heritage, or take to the Bellair Dam on the Waterways Tour to experience the Karoo from a unique perspective. The Peregrine boat — named after the magnificent bird of prey, the Peregrine Falcon — seats 12 eager adventurers for a guided tour to see hippos, the Big Five and wild birds. Once the sun has set, visitors can look to the constellations of the Milky Way where an expert guide will share stories about the mighty Orion and Taurus. +27 (0) 21 010 0028, sanbona.com EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 21
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ON THE COVER
Find the perfect views over the world’s biggest green canyon when staying at Blyde Canyon, A Forever Resort.
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Adventure land Mpumalanga is known for its wildlife offerings but the province has more adventurous pursuits between its paths, pools and passes. Buckle up, it’s a bumpy ride
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ON THE COVER
Camp right beside the fence for a chance to see the patrolling hyena at Maroela Satellilte Camp in the Kruger National Park.
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The Panorama Route is famous for its extraordinary views and iconic landmarks, such as God’s Window and Bourke’s Luck Potholes. However, to experience the Three Rondavels in their true majesty, I wanted to see a different side of the world’s biggest green canyon. To uncover the province’s best adventures, I planned to drive directly south from the town of Hoedspruit, all the way to Swaziland, leaving a chain of adrenaline-action in my wake. But first, a quick detour eastwards — there’s no place to feel your heart thump more loudly than in the Kruger National Park in the dead of night. Camping in Kruger is always an adventure, even if for one night, and the Maroela Satellite Camp is an intimate, oldschool rest camp on the dry Timbavati Riverbed that only permits tents and caravans. True camping at its finest, it’s relatively off-the-grid but with ablutions and in a prime game area within spitting distance of the far busier Satara Rest Camp. That evening, I’m visited by the resident honey badger while hyenas march the fenceline, sniffing out my braai. I snuggle in my tent, pitched below a starry sky, and fall asleep listening to their unsettling whoops. The following morning, I briefly dip into Limpopo but the boundary line between Limpopo and the ‘place of the rising sun’ (as the Zulu translation defines Mpumalanga) materialises just before I enter the Blyde River Nature Reserve on the
That evening, I’m visited by the resident honey badger while hyenas march the fenceline, sniffing out my braai Swadini side. Here is where I would find the Three Rondavels at their best. The boat I’ve boarded shrugs off its mooring and we glide on water into the world’s third-largest canyon that stretches over 26 kilometres and is more than 800 metres deep. A Trumpeter Hornbill flies above us, shrieking eerily, and towering canyon walls ensconce us — so high that the sun has dipped behind them by 3.30 pm. Once we arrive below the Three Rondavels, I look up and it certainly feels as though I am sitting nearly a kilometre below. Back on land, I drive for an hour all the way around the canyon to the more popular Three Rondavels viewpoint on the R532. I wanted to get the best possible photograph of EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER
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the incredible view from above too, and there’s only one way to see this vista at golden hour — by staying at Blyde Canyon, a Forever Resort. ‘You can swim in the pools on the Loerie Trail,’ says the General Manager, Francois Scholtz, when I ask about the walks in the area. ‘Our hikes are great but not all of them are easy — what goes down must come up! They’ve had to rescue many hikers from the canyon as it gets very hot in the summer and people underestimate it.’ The Leopard Trail is the resort’s best day hike and roughly five kilometres (depending on how you link up the other day trails). However, the start of the trail, ‘World’s End’, is where you want to be at sunrise or sunset, to experience a true spectacle. After a challenging walk and the opportunity to capture some beautiful shots, I enjoy a quick rest before embarking on the next leg of my journey. From happiness to supposed sadness, I leave behind the Blyde River Canyon and head towards the less joyfully named Treur Rivier, stopping at Bourke’s Luck Potholes on the way. My destination is a secret swimming spot called Fann’s Falls, a seven-kilometre riverside hike from the open air, lunch-only Potluck Boskombuis. Using no electricity, just a good old fire, my post-hike, post-swim reward is a real traditional South African feast — bobotie followed by moer koffie, all served in enamel crockery. This is country fare at its most enigmatic and I need fuel for my next endeavour.
‘They’ve had to rescue many hikers from the canyon as it gets very hot in the summer’ ‘All the farms in the area are named after capital cities around the world, showing the origins of the workers who laboured here in the gold fields,’ says Phillicity Flischman from the nearby accommodation, Lisbon Hideaway. ‘London, New York, Berlin and Lisbon — that’s where the falls got their name.’ Phillicity is showing me the route down to the bottom of Lisbon Falls, a whole different world to the viewpoint above. The closer we get to the unbelievably turquoise pool, the more we feel the spray of fine mist emanating from the falls. I am drenched but elated, and do not even need to swim to experience these sacred waters. A short drive from Lisbon Falls, I find one of Mpumalanga’s newest attractions, the Graskop Gorge Lift Company. A shiny new tourist centre offering crafts and a great cafe with outstanding views that would rival God’s Window tempts me, but I’m here for a regular elevator ride to an unusual destination, not a coffee. A glass-windowed lift transports me down 51 metres into a forested wonderland and at the bottom, I wander around at will with 500 metres of a signposted boardwalk to guide me along the magical Mitsi River. The perfect way to wind down a day. 26
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ON THE COVER
A 51-metre drop in the Graskop Gorge Lift lowers you down through a tall canopy to explore a magical, indigenous-forest world below. EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER
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ON THE COVER
The smooth elevator ride is quickly overtaken by a far bumpier one the following morning. I sit down with Kestell Barnard at the headquarters of Kestell Adventures in nearby Sabie and he briefs me on our upcoming adventure. A quick 4×4 trip later and I find myself wearing a wetsuit and lifejacket, and strapping on a helmet before I hurl myself into the Sabie River with a one-man raft. With names like ‘Pinball Machine’ and ‘Hell’s Gate,’ I knew to expect a bumpy journey — but rafting the Sabie River gets my heart well and truly thumping. So much for the Slowveld (as some locals tenderly call the Lowveld); I wanted adventure and boy, did I get it. I’m barely dry before landing myself on another wild jaunt. Just 20 kilometres from Sabie, the Long Tom Toboggan has me gripping on for dear life yet
again. A steel rail winds its way across the plains and down the slopes of Misty Mountain. It is just three minutes long but can reach thundering speeds of 45 kilometres an hour. It almost feels as though I’m on a motorcycle, leaning into the bends, tearing up twists on the tar. Giving my poor heart a rest, I take the evening off and prepare for my final stop at the Devil’s Office the following day. The little mining town of Kaapsehoop was initially known as Duiwel’s Kantoor (Devil’s Office) thanks to the twisted and spooky rock formations that line the escarpment as well as the mist that commonly swirls into the village. In the spirit of this history, it seems fitting to see Kaapsehoop on a downhill daredevil ride. Designed for Switzerland’s mountain slopes, the scooter I am riding is not electrified
MPUMALANGA ADVENTURE CHECKLIST 1 Take a boat cruise on Blyde River Canyon, blydecanyon.co.za 2 Go camping in the Kruger National Park, sanparks.org 3 Hike the Leopard Trail, sanparks.org 4 Swim in the Treur Rivier, facebook.com/littleboskombuis 5 Look up at Lisbon Falls, lisbonhideaway.co.za 6 Glide down the Graskop Gorge Lift, graskopgorgeliftcompany.co.za 7 Paddle on the Sabie River, kestelladventures.com 8 Hold tight on the Long Tom Toboggan, longtomtoboggan.co.za 9 Race downhill with Kaapsehoop Scootours, scootours.co.za 10 Drive the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail, geotrail.co.za
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and my trip with owners Rudi du Plessis and Juliette Whelpton begins in flatter grasslands, so I can get the hang of it before we start cruising down some really steep slopes. I’m nervous at first but after conquering some of the switchbacks, it’s pure exhilaration. After the tour, we drink glasses of rewarding Oros beside a stream before I make my way to my last stop. South Africa has just gained its 10th UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the first in Mpumalanga: At a meeting in July 2018, a mountain range between Barberton and Swaziland made the cut, joining the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Vredefort Dome, Robben Island and more. The Barberton Makhonjwa Mountains typifies the best-preserved succession of volcanic and sedimentary rock dating back 3.6 to 3.25 billion years when the first continents were starting to form on primitive Earth. Forget the Cradle of Humankind; in South Africa, we live in the Cradle of Life itself. My journey ends in one of the world’s oldest geological structures where I find some of the first fossils of life. They are no more than little charcoal flecks stained into the rock but it is a fitting end to my exploits. Looking out across yet another breathtaking view, I have to admit that the string of activities I’ve conquered in Mpumalanga sure made me feel alive.
Words: Melanie van Zyl; Photography: Melanie van Zyl, Getaway/Melanie van Zyl
Feel true thrills on the Long Tom Toboggan ride.
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IN FOCUS
Flyboys Making aviation history is all in a day’s work — or play? — for Mike Blyth and James Pitman, who design, manufacture and pilot their own light sport aircraft
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Their first-ever night flight in their newly developed aircraft just happened to be an 18-hour stretch from Pilanesberg to São Tomé off the West African coast — the longest straight-line journey ever undertaken in a two-seater light sport aircraft. And they just happened to have a malfunctioning GPS and autopilot. This was the first leg of an Aroundthe-World (ATW) trip that adventurers James Pitman and Mike Blyth undertook in their little yellow Sling 2 aircraft, designed and built with their own hands — and not, by their own admission, quite ready for the trials it would be subjected to. But aviation pioneers have never been among the faint-hearted. ‘Actually, we didn’t even know if the plane would take off because we
had never flown with full fuel tanks before — we were really heavy,’ admits James. ‘We took off extremely underprepared for the journey. But if you wait until you’re ready to fly a prototype around the world, you’ll just never leave.’ As it happened, the aircraft — in which they departed just 11 days after its first-ever flight — was fitted with a malfunctioning tracker just a few hours before take-off, which meant the GPS failed every six minutes. In addition, James had earned his Instrument Flight Rating only two days before leaving on the trip and Mike had obtained a night rating only the day before, which meant they were forced to fly over Botswana on an instrument flight (IF) plan and without any visual cues. As there is so little electricity in Botswana, it was also impossible to see the horizon without the moon at night. ‘In Mike’s 7 000 hours of flight, and in my 700, neither of us had ever flown at night or by instruments before,’ James recalls. ‘We also had a failing autopilot — and we had no experience of autopilots anyway. We damn near killed ourselves that night!’
BUILT FOR ADVENTURE The Airplane Factory officially opened its doors in 2010. Since then, the factory has produced 350 aircraft.
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FLYING HIGH The Sling 2, which Mike and James flew from Pilanesburg to São Tomé on their first flight together.
James (left) and Mike’s passion for flying has led the duo to not only complete ATW flight adventures but also establish a thriving aircraft-manufacturing business.
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It was an inauspicious start to their first ATW flight in 2009 (completed in a mere 40 days) but they have gone on to repeatedly break the world record for the longest straight-line flight in an aircraft of that size. Before teaming up to fly around the world, Mike and James were both risktakers. Although James qualified and practised as a lawyer, he loved rock climbing and skydiving, and flying lessons soon beckoned. Mike ran a microlight manufacturing business and founded the Sky Riders Flight School near Johannesburg. From top: A free-spirited adventure He was the South African became an exploration of the Namib National Microlight Champion desert; A view of the North Pole five times and won the World from one of the duo’s flights; Microlight Championship in Playing games above Hollywood. 1992, before designing his own microlight trike, the Aerotrike Safari. Later, he began designing light sport aircraft. Today, James and Mike are 50% partners in The Airplane Factory, an aircraft development situated at Tedderfield Air Park, Gauteng. Together with a staff complement of around 150, the pair design, manufacture and sell the MercedesBenz of light sport aircraft to flight enthusiasts from around the globe. While Mike and James have tested their products more rigorously than just about any manufacturer, they insist that any reputation they have for recklessness is wildly exaggerated. ‘We’re not actually gung-ho,’ Mike says. ‘We’ll try most things but it’s always considered. The risk must always be justified and manageable — as much as other people may disagree that’s the case!’ Their flight from Conakry in Guinea
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Words: Fiona Zerbst; Photography: Courtesy images
Clockwise from top-left: Above the clouds over Reunion in the Sling 4; James, Jean D’Assonville and Mike taking a well-deserved break; Arriving home after successfully completing an ATW trip in 2009.
to Belém in Brazil, on the third leg of their first around-the-world trip, was the epitome of foolhardy tenacity. ‘What made that long ocean crossing even more fraught was the fact that we’d not been able to obtain aviation fuel as there’d been a coup in Guinea (we’d actually spent the previous night in jail because the police thought we were spies).’ Instead, they had to settle for low-quality, leaded 93 octane fuel that ‘looked like someone had been sick in it’. The next landfall was 4 000 km away, their GPS and autopilot were dodgy and they had 22 hours of radio
silence ahead of them because they had not bothered to invest in expensive high-frequency radio before taking off. ‘As pilots, we should never have attempted that crossing. But as adventurers, come what may, we were going to do it,’ says James. While the pair have no immediate plans for another expedition, they are adamant that running a business is just as much of a crazy adventure as flying. ‘The best part is, we are adding value here in South Africa,’ says James. ‘Our greater mission is to create a sustainable business out of these aircraft and if we get to fly them to interesting places along the way, we’re certainly not complaining!’
AIRPLANE FACTORY’S ADVENTURES
‘We’ll try most things but it’s always considered. The risk must always be justifiable and manageable’
2011 Sling 4 Around-theWorld expedition
2006 First flying and rockclimbing trip undertaken together around southern Africa
2009 Sling 2 Around-theWorld expedition
2010 The Airplane Factory moves to Tedderfield Air Park
2011 Sling 2 5577 to Poland expedition
2013 Sling 4 to Oshkosh expedition
2015 Sling 2 Johannesburg to Brussels expedition
2015 Sling Madagascar expedition
2015 Sling 2 Around-theWorld expedition
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Girl About Town Long known as a tourist hot spot along the Garden Route, Knysna keeps travellers coming back for more
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Clockwise from top: Stores on Thesen Harbour Town open directly on to a boardwalk; The Lofts’ kitchens and rooms are spacious and fitted with modern amenities.
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For many travellers along the Western Cape Garden Route, one stop remains a constant. Whether for its placid lagoon waters, numerous outdoor activities that range from hiking to whale-watching or the promise of sighting the ever-elusive elephants said to roam this region, the small town of Knysna beckons adventure-seekers and leisure lovers alike. Although the devastating wildfire of 7 June 2017 saw the town lose homes, pets, families and entire livelihoods, Knysna’s residents – and South Africans across the nation – rallied together to sustain and uplift the infrastructure, beauty and rich heritage of this much-loved town. Now, it is back to business. My friends and I drive into Knysna on a chilly winter’s afternoon. The bridge into town provides us with the perfect vantage point to view the magnificent Knysna Heads, two large headlands that allow the estuary to open to the expansive ocean beyond. It is just a day later when one of us experiences terrible seasickness passing through its treacherous waters that have claimed many a fishing boat and life. Our base camp is the modern yet comfortable The Lofts Boutique Hotel located in Thesen Harbour Town, part of Thesen Islands. The islands are a marina development consisting of 19 man-made islands spread across 90 hectares. From our second-story apartment, we are treated to views of both the lagoon and the waterfront on the mainland. And while our abode is delightful — adorned
with high ceilings, modern fittings and luxe interiors — the outdoors await. On the far side of the little island, which will be our home for the next couple of days, we encounter the Turbine Water Club, an activity centre run by the friendly Schalk Hildebrand. Schalk and his small team offer bicycle rides, kayaking and sundowner cruises on the lagoon but it is the Ocean Odyssey whale-watching boat tour that catches our eye. After getting fitted with life jackets, we eagerly clamber aboard. The boat takes off from the jetty and heads towards the Indian Ocean at a merry speed. We slow down as we spot two whales – a mother and her calf – and watch as these magnificent mammals give us a show. Two hours and a lot of barfing later, we finally head back to The Lofts. Just in time too, as the first rain begins to come down. The next morning, we are up early to venture into one of the largest-growing forests in the world: Knysna Forest covers an expanse of 540 000 hectares and is the site of inspiration for South African author Dalene Matthee. Our guide for the two-hour adventure through the trees is Meagan Vermaas of Forest Guided Tours. As the official guide of Dalene Matthee, she not only enlightens us with insight into the indigenous fauna and flora, and the rumoured elephants of the forest, but also provides an incredible history of Dalene Matthee and the relationship she had with the forest. Disappointed at the lack of elephants amongst the beautiful greenery, I convince
It’s just a day later when one of us experiences terrible seasickness passing through its treacherous waters that have claimed many a fishing boat and life
Exploring Knysna Forest, home of the elusive Knysna elephants and author Dalene Matthee’s inspiration for her writing.
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Feeding the elephants at Knysna Elephant Park.
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FOOD LOVERS While there is no shortage of things to see and do in Knysna, you may want to indulge in the smorgasbord of food on offer too. 1 The Island Café at the Turbine Hotel on Thesen Harbour Town offers a formidable spread of hot and continental options for breakfast, and a dinner menu that combines contemporary local and international flavours, +27 044 302 5746 2 Over at Ile de pain café and bakery (pictured), tuck into deli fare, decadent hot chocolate and pastries that will have you coming back for more time and time again, iledepain.co.za 3 Out of town, along Rheenendal Road, Totties Farm Kitchen serves farm food and a compelling history. Its interior is decorated with 1920s kaggelkakkies (trinkets) and its Sunday lunch buffet is a huge hit so be sure to book beforehand, tottiesfarmkitchen.co.za
Words: Zainab SvR; Photography: Mohammed Hoosain
my group to venture a few kilometres outside of town to the Knysna Elephant Park. The park offers daily elephant tours as well as other experiences where visitors can ride, touch and feed these gentle giants. We opt for the latter and also enquire about the volunteer programme at the African Elephant Research Unit (AERU). The unit and park, the first of its kind, were established to house and care for orphaned elephants. Volunteers are required to help manage and research the welfare and husbandry needs of captive elephants. We return to town, elated with the majesty of nature we have just experienced — but our day is far from over. While there’s not much ground to cover on Thesen Harbour Town, what it lacks in square metres, it makes up for with its array of diverse stores — all of which we found ourselves wanting to peruse for hours on end. Dallas Smith Gallery exhibits artworks that exude the essence of summer while Sublime had me handing over wads of cash for their locally produced garments made from 100% natural materials. Before allowing me to spend any more, my friends whisk me back to The Lofts for one last treat before our return journey home. The Lofts’ spa, Le Spa Tranquille, is situated on the edge of the lagoon and offers everything from massages and facials to a sauna. It’s the perfect ending to a relaxing weekend in the heart of the Garden Route.
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Hot Tropics Having been shunned for colder climes in recent years, the Seychelles archipelago is once again having its day in the sun
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Situated mid-ocean between Africa and India is a luxurious archipelago made up of 115 islands, offering more than just tranquil turquoise waters lapping at white sands. With three main islands to choose from — namely Mahé, Praslin and La Digue — as well as a myriad smaller islands to explore, Seychelles is the epitome of an exotic escape from the humdrum of normal life. With so much ground — or rather, sea — to cover, here are the top spots to drop anchor. Stay Part of the Constance group of resorts, the five-star Ephelia and Lemuria are situated on Mahé and Praslin, respectively. At the Ephelia resort, which occupies 120 hectares of land between two beaches, guests can enjoy a dynamic break that includes water activities such as windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking and diving. For a more relaxing retreat, the resort’s U Spa by Constance will not disappoint. As the largest spa in the Indian
Ocean, covering approximately 5 000m2, there is not a space more rejuvenating than this. Over on La Digue, Lemuria’s four restaurants and five bars will not leave guests in want off this secluded paradise, while basking in this secluded paradise. Apart from its land- and water-based activities, elegant suites and gourmet cuisine and wine experiences, Lemuria also offers an 18-hole champion golf course — the only one in the Seychelles. Just off the east coast of Mahé, Eden Island is home to the Eden Bleu Hotel, the perfect departure point for island-hopping in the Seychelles’ archipelago. The hotel sports 76 deluxe rooms, 12 luxury suites and one opulent presidential suite, although guests are more likely to spend their days away from their room. For the practical traveller, the hotel also neighbours Eden Plaza, the only purpose-built retail centre in the Seychelles where guests have access to medical services, pharmacies, shops, foreign exchange and ATMs. The Plaza is also the perfect place to book and plan leisure activities such as diving, fishing or yacht cruises. Much further afield, around a 50-minute flight from Mahé, Alphonse Atoll is home to a population of around 92 000 inhabitants. Blessed with one of the world’s healthiest climates, incredible natural beauty and prolific marine life, this untouched eden offers families and couples a paradisal getaway.
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Previous page: Turquoise waters surround the lush islands. This page: A perfect view of all the Seychelles has to offer.
With a mere 22 bungalows, forming the Beach Bungalow, and five Beach Suites, privacy and five-star luxury await. constancehotels.com, edenbleu.com, alphonse-island.com Play Whether based on the mainland or a nearby atoll, visitors to the Seychelles will more than likely spend a great deal of time exploring all the archipelago’s hidden secrets. One not-so-secret spot, the Sir Selwyn Clarke Market, lies in the heart of Victoria — one of the smallest capital cities in the world. Built in 1840 and renovated in 1999, the market is more widely known as the Victoria Market and blends old and new Seychellois traditions. Friendly locals will share their favourite Seychellois Creole recipes while colourful stalls serve up an array of fresh produce, spices and souvenirs. Wander further down Market Street
BUDGET BREAK Although Seychelles is not the most cost-effective of destinations for South Africans, what it offers in experiences far outweigh the price tag. For travellers that are more cash savvy, the Berjaya Beau Vallon Bay Resort & Casino provides a haven of comfort at a more affordable price. Situated on the northwest coast of the largest island and commercial hub of the archipelago, Mahé, it is the ideal base from which to venture on day trips around the Seychelles. berjayahotel.com EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 45
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towards the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple, named after the Hindu god of safety and prosperity. Open to the public, the temple provides a colourful contrast to the tin-roofed houses that populate the capital. For that idyllic tropical island experience, the Sainte Anne Marine National Park encompasses six atolls off the coast of the main island. Established in 1973 to preserve the wildlife found in the Indian Ocean, there are now daily excursions in glass-bottomed boats where visitors can scuba dive and snorkel amongst
Blessed with one of the world’s healthiest climates, incredible natural beauty and prolific marine life, this untouched eden will offer families and couples a paradisal getaway the coral reefs, enjoying the sights of tropical fish, reef sharks and even bottlenose dolphins and Hawksbill sea turtles. Also part of the park, Moyenne Island boasts a rich history: Back in 1962, a Brit named Brendon Grimshaw purchased the island for a mere £8 000. His love for Moyenne led him to clear the scrub, create hiking trails, a small home and an open-air chapel. The atoll is now a long way from the uninhabitable and impenetrable island it used to be, as Brendon planted about 16 000 trees, including paw paw, mango, palms and other local plants. After his death in 2012, the Seychelles Tourism Board incorporated the island into the national park and today, it is home to approximately 2 000 birds, more than 100 giant tortoises, two dogs and a warden. seychelles.travel, snpa.gov.sc/ marine-parks/st-anne
From top: Fresh produce on display at a local farmers market; The intricately-detailed Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple is a must see.
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Brendon Grimshaw’s quaint chapel burrowed in the forest of Moyenne atoll.
Dine Although sun-kissed skin, adventure and relaxation are all top of the list when visiting Seychelles, the island’s gastronomy is not to be overlooked. As a resort destination, the many five-star hotels and lodges proffer delicious global cuisine to suit any palate. However, it’s in the heart of Beau Vallon Bay, Mahé, where the Boathouse Restaurant serves up traditional Seychellois-Creole dishes. Situated smack-bang on the beach, it is best known for its dinner buffet where patrons can sip on cocktails while taking in a gorgeous sunset. Not too far away, in St Louis, Marie Antoinette Restaurant’s warm, relaxed atmosphere invites you to enjoy authentic food made with only the freshest local ingredients. With a history spanning more than 50 years, the restaurant is still housed in its original structure and boasts an uncomplicated menu and an extensive wine list comprised of many South African greats. For an on-the-go meal, try Ton Pol’s Shack — where home-made fast food is the name of the game. Serving mostly burgers and sandwiches, Ton Pol’s emphasis on fresh ingredients has guaranteed their success. boathouseseychelles.com, marieantoinette.sc, tonpolshack.com 48
FLIGHT PLAN Air Seychelles offers six direct flights from Johannesburg to Mahé, Seychelles, every week from Wednesday to Sunday. Domestic flights to Praslin and La Digue are offered at Seychelles International, as are 90-minute inter-island ferries. airseychelles.com
LIVE LIKE A LOCAL With an assortment of experiences around every corner, Seychelles is no hard sell as a tintillating holiday destination. Yet, it’s the local haunts that truly bring the culture of the Seychellois alive. At Bazar Labrin, a vibrant market held at Beau Vallon Beach every Wednesday and last Sunday of the month, locals jam to the tunes of live music from Seychellois bands as they peruse the stalls. Dig in to curry and chapatis to go or barter for fresh produce and fish, which stallholders will happily gut and even prepare. On the smaller granatic islands of Praslin and La Digue, rent a bicycle (except for delivery vehicles, there are no cars on La Digue) and pedal to Grand Anse where picture-perfect breakers pummel the white sands. Lucky visitors have also spotted endangered bird species such as the Seychelles ParadiseFlycatcher and the rare Black Parrot. Praslin, too, is a bird-lover’s dream and is known for its tangled velvet jungle, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Vallée de Mai, one of the most beautiful stands of forest. History buffs will be pleased to know that La Digue is also home to an old colonial cemetery and magnificent vanilla and coconut plantations. Locals flock to the island to purchase both dried vanilla and vanilla essence as well as copra, coconut oil and calou, an alcoholic drink made from the sap of coconuts. seychelles.travel, sif.sc/ vdm, ladigue.sc
Words: Elske Joubert & Zainab SvR; Photography: Courtesy images
Traditional Seychelles cuisine tantalises tastebuds.
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EVERY DETAIL MAKES AN MSC CRUISE NOT JUST ANY CRUISE. Every detail on an MSC Cruise makes you live a unique experience. Like every piece of music selected and performed by our talented professional pianists, awakening the senses and emotions throughout the day. This is just one of many entertainment experiences we offer night and day. Another meticulously crafted touch of class developed with you in mind.
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E S C A PA D E
Run wild
South Africa has some tough trail runs. Here’s what it’s like to complete one of the toughest
It’s 6:15 am when we disembark the taxis at Maden Dam, pose for a quick photo then shuffle off into the dense forest. We’re running the Hobbit, a 90 km trail run that broadly follows the route of the Amatola Hiking Trail. Billed as the toughest trail in South Africa, the mountainous route from Maden Dam to Hogsback takes hikers six days and commands respect. We — and 32 other crazy trail runners — hope to complete the course in two. In keeping with the spirit of the event, there’s no fanfare. Although the Hobbit is timed, it’s not a conventional race. Rather it’s an opportunity for a group of mountain lovers and trail runners to experience the everchanging scenery and spectacular views of the Amatola. At the pre-race briefing, co-organiser Tatum Prins is firm. ‘This is a tough race.
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Some of you will be weeping, maybe even vomiting, by the time you reach the overnight hut at the halfway stage. But let me be clear: Quitting is not an option. After a night’s sleep, you’ll be fine.’ Day one is certainly challenging. After a gentle start, we climb higher and higher into the mountains, the ‘frontrunners easing away from the pack. The steep, rugged route takes us past
marshalls do a spot check to ensure we have sufficient foul-weather and emergency equipment before the ascent. Following a section of trail that is not open to the general public, we slog up a steep hill to the trig beacon on the summit — only to lose the markers and get lost in the pines on the way down. The sight of Cata Hut, perched high on the slopes on the other side of the kilometre-deep valley, is soul destroying. It is another hour of bone-shaking downhill and unrelenting uphill before we pop out into moorland to the welcome sight of Merrell banners. The Mountain Runner team cheers us over the line and cups of hot soup are thrust into our hands as we warm up before a roaring fire. The donkey boiler is going and although it’s a bracing ‘off-cold’ temperature, it’s good to get clean. As the stragglers stagger in, we sit, like one big family, snuggled around the tables, swapping war stories and photos, tending to blisters and wounds, and preparing food for the next day. Then we feast on chicken curry and a veggie pot washed down with beer, red wine and endless cups of tea and hot chocolate. It is all very civilised. No one is particularly interested in their placing but we are amused to learn that hot favourite Rory Scheffer took a wrong turn, ran an extra 10 km and still came in ahead of the rest of the field in six hours and 32 minutes while the slower runners took nearly 11 hours. On the second day, we wake at 4 am, feeling surprisingly sprightly. After wolfing down breakfast, we set off up the hill behind the hut, blundering into rocks and falling into gullies in the dark. Then it gets worse: At the top, we are faced with a steep downhill on the edge of a loose boulder field that results in many a tumble. It boosts camaraderie but it is a miracle that no one gets seriously injured. Once the sun comes up, we begin to appreciate the majesty of the mountains: The route of the Amatola Trail is ingeniously laid out to take in the best waterfalls and viewpoints of the area. We wind in and out of thick patches of indigenous forest, ducking and diving under fallen trees, clambering up tree roots, tottering over scree and boulder-hopping across streams. Although I am sure the leaders ran, we go at a more sedate pace, stopping at viewpoints and falls to take photos. By the time we reach the Wolf River, the runners on the 38 km event (which follows the route of the Zingcuka Loop of the Amatola Trail) catch us. The praise and encouragement they offer as they trot past lift our weary spirits. The path stays close to the river as it narrows to a steepsided gorge cut in the grey dolerite rock and we stop for regular breathers, gazing at the rolling, brackencloaked hills that stretch out into the distance. A series of pools and drops follow, the path crossing the stream a couple of times and wandering through grasslands studded with protea, wild dagga and other veld flowers before gradually climbing up to a spectacular viewpoint overlooking the Wolf River
‘Some of you will be weeping, maybe even vomiting, by the time you reach the overnight hut at the halfway stage. But let me be clear: Quitting is not an option’ tinkling streams, rock pools and numerous waterfalls while the wonderful birds, fungi, tree ferns and delicate orchids provide a welcome distraction from the pain of the constant up and down. Doornkop, the high point of the morning, is shrouded in mist so
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Clockwise from top left: Hikers take in the breath-taking view as they endure the climb; Exploring the lush forest takes the mind off any obstacles ahead; Thumbs up for a once-in-a-lifetime experience; Appreciating the hilly landscape with its abundance of fauna and flora.
TRAIL RUNS TO TRY 1 Kalahari Augrabies Extreme Marathon An iconic seven-day, 250 km self-sufficient stage race in the Kalahari Desert and Augrabies Falls National Park. Next event: 18-28 October 2018, kaem.co.za 2 Mapungubwe Wildrun® This 92 km, three-day journey through the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area is not a race but a guided group run through a World Heritage Site and Big Five game areas. Next event: 8-12 May 2019, wildrun.com 3 Otter African Trail Run The breathtaking Otter course, between Nature’s Valley and Storms River Mouth, happens to be marathon distance but with 2 500m of vertical ascent, it is seriously hardcore. Next event: 19-20 October 2018, otter.run
Words: Fiona McIntosh; Photography: Terence Vrugtman
Forest. An exciting contour along a narrow path that hugs the edge of the precipitous Zingcuka Cliffs is followed by another knee-jarring descent through ferns and indigenous forest, past the Zingcuka Hut and along a short section of forest road to a refreshment table. ‘Only 15 km to go but it’s a mother of a climb,’ crew-member Sarah Hearn warns as we fill our water bottles. Putting our heads down, we slog up the overgrown path utilising our well-practised technique of pulling on roots and clambering over slimy boulders. After what seems an age, we emerge from the shade of the canopy to flatter, more open land. Still up and up we go. The climb is relentless. Behind us is a chain of young men and women who are competing in the 38 km race. ‘Do you want to pass?’ I inquire, ready to let someone else set the pace. ‘We can’t,’ comes the unanimous response. With a vertical gain of 800m, the climb up the back of the Hogsback Mountain is proving a stiff undertaking. There’s no running this section. Instead, everyone has his or her head down and is focusing on breathing and negotiating the rocky boulders, muddy patches, overgrown vegetation and other obstacles we encounter. Finally the gradient eases and we see the gap between the sheer cliff of ‘The Hog’ and a rocky outcrop on its shoulder. As we snap selfies, we look back with pride at the route that we have followed from Maden Dam and along the horseshoe-shaped series of mountain ranges around Keiskammahoek to this impressive vantage point. From here, the route is downhill. We’ve almost cracked the Hobbit. An hour later, we emerge from the forest in to the Hogsback Arboretum and do our best to sprint up the hill and across the road to the finish line at the Arminel Hotel. And although it has been an incredible adventure, my only regret is I’ve had little time to linger. The next Hobbit run takes place 26-27 April 2019, mountainrunner.co.za 54 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION TWO 2018
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With such a wide range, the choice is already an adventure Come explore the greatest selection of quality gear for hiking, camping, off-road, braais, picnics and more in Southern Africa.
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BUCKET LIST
CAPE TOWN: RELOADED The Mother City offers a playground of adventurous pursuits for all ages
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TAKE TO THE SKIES
Experience a bird’s eye view of the Mother City as a paragliding passenger. With no previous knowledge required, tandem paragliding is a safe and fun way to get an adrenaline rush. The most common sites for launch are Lion’s Head and Signal Hill, although this is dependent on wind direction. A flight can last up to 30 minutes and the tandem paragliding flight instructor (TFI) will provide a full brief before takeoff. Each flight is captured in video footage and photographs that are available for purchase at R300 and provided on a micro SD card with adapter. R1 300, paraglide.co.za
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2 TOUR AFRICA’S MOST UNIQUE MUSEUM
In September last year, the largest museum dedicated to contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora, Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (Zeitz MOCAA), opened in the V&A Waterfront’s Silo District. Boasting nine floors and 100 galleries, the historical grain silo building that now houses the museum is an architectural masterpiece that has been reimagined by London-based Heatherwick Studio. Its nine-story atrium has been carved out of concrete silo tubes while many of the building’s original fixtures can still be found inside. After perusing the art, enjoy a cup of coffee with 270-degree views of the harbour, Table Mountain and the museum Sculpture Garden before exiting through its impressive gift shop. R180 pp, free for under-18s, private tours on request, zeitzmocaa.museum
VIEW THE WORLD FROM UP HIGH
Undoubtedly a major tourist attraction, the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway should not be missed. While the panoramic views from the five-minute cable car trip and top of Table Mountain are arresting, visitors seeking adventure can abseil down a cliff face, take a hike on one of three trails from the Upper Cable Station or join a free 30-minute guided walk that introduces the story of Table Mountain and the Cableway. The Cableway is wheelchair accessible and visitors wishing to spend the day in the clouds can enjoy eats and free Wifi at the Table Mountain Café and Wifi Lounge. Free audio tours for mobile devices can also be downloaded and enjoyed at leisure while sipping a coffee or taking a walk around the area. From R277 for adults and R136 for children 4-17 years (return), tablemountain.net EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 57
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BUCKET LIST
DIVE HEADFIRST INTO A DEADLY EXPERIENCE
Head to Gansbaai, a small fishing town two hours from Cape Town, to take a swim with one of the world’s most feared creatures — the great white shark. The town’s reputation as the great white shark capital is well-founded. It is here where you will be lowered down in an enclosed cage and be surrounded by these majestic creatures. The dive itself takes place at Dyer Island, a 15-minute boat ride away from the mainland, which is also home to a 50 000-strong colony of Cape Fur Seals. From 1 850 pp, sharkcagediving.co.za
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DO A BREWERY TOUR AT NEWLANDS
Dating back to 1820, Newlands Brewery is the oldest operating brewery in southern Africa and the home of many of the country’s top-selling beers — and open for fully guided tours. Discover the history of the brewery, gain insight into brewing methods and appreciate SA’s best beers with a beer tasting and complimentary drinks. Tours take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 10 am, 12 pm and 2 pm with an additional tour at 4 pm on Fridays, at 10 am and 12 pm on Saturdays, and 6 pm on Wednesdays. R100 pp, R60 pp for pensioners and students, newlandsbrewery.co.za 58 INTREPID EXPLORER │ EDITION TWO 2018
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BUCKET LIST
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GET COSY WITH WILD CATS
Just 45 minutes from Cape Town, Ashia is a worldclass cheetah sanctuary and working farm. Visitors can engage with the cheetahs, take photographs and watch as the world’s fastest land mammals take a run. The farm was founded to prevent the further decline in the cheetah population and aid the reintroduction of captive-bred cheetahs into the protected wild. Open-ended volunteer and internship experiences are available at a cost where volunteers assist in the caring and release of the cheetahs. From R110 for a farm tour, R200 for a cheetah run, R500 for a tour and cheetah meet, and R750 to walk with a cheetah, ashia.co.za
PADDLE WITH PENGUINS
AfriOceans Conservation Alliance is a nongovernmental organisation (NGO) rooted in marine species conservation. It has partnered with Airbnb Social Impact Experiences to provide transformative experiences that directly contribute to the organisation’s conservation projects. One such experience is the opportunity to get up close and personal with penguins. Marine conservationists Terry Corr and Jon Monsoon provide visitors with a safety briefing before guiding them in kayaks towards Boulders Beach to come face-to-face with the incredible African Penguins that reside here.
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R600 pp, airbnb.com/experiences/112515
On a beautiful peri-urban stretch of terrain along the Cape Peninsula, visitors looking for a soul-searching experience will find just that — and plenty more. Although it takes its name from the Camino de Santiago, an ancient pilgrimage trail in Spain, the Cape Camino of the Western Cape is nevertheless an enlightening experience. A circular route that crosses over Constantia Nek and sweeps south and north (in the shape of a figure eight), the trail offers pilgrims various routes where they will have an opportunity to explorer hidden gems. From R1 305 for a day experience, capecamino.co.za
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VENTURE UNDERGROUND
The city of Cape Town is a lively place but beneath its surface, there’s even more to discover. Dating as far back as 1652, underground canals that were once used to supply fresh water to passing ships and the Company Garden of the city, and later transported sewerage as the city expanded, now provide an impressive walkway of secret underground tunnels for willing wanderers. Decommissioned in 1895, these historic canals still transport water from Table Mountain into the ocean and visitors can partake in an educational tour that runs from Table Mountain to the Castle of Good Hope. R250 pp, goodhopeadventures.com/ tour-tunnel-adventure.htm
Words Zainab SvR; Photography: African News Agency (ANA), Mark Williams
EMBARK ON A PERSONAL PILGRIMAGE
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FAST AND CONVENIENT
Join the Avis Preferred Loyalty Programme today. Spend less time ďŹ lling out forms, and more time enjoying the beneďŹ ts of priority service, upgrades, free additional driver and free weekend rentals.*
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Space riders Venture north to the Namaqua Coastal Route and into a stretch of wild country, where arid plains unfurl towards the icy Atlantic — and discover the true expanse of the wildernes across the handle bars of your bike
Nowhere else in South Africa beats the Namaqua region, as far as wide-sky headspace goes. Situated where scrubland plains and a tempestuous ocean collide, it is an area of breathtaking divergence and jaw-dropping contrasts, creating a minimalist landscape that is rugged beyond belief. A vigorous climate and the enduring onslaught of extreme elements have shaped an ecosystem bristling with a profusion of bulbs and succulents. Iconic quiver trees dominate gargantuan granite outcrops spiking high against the sky and ,come spring time, Namaqualand transforms into a floral wonderland with its wildflower blooms.
It remains largely undiscovered as a tourism region, giving truth to its reference as ‘Eenkantland’ by locals. Exploring this ‘Land Left Out’ on your mountain bike is therefore one of the best ways to experience its myriad life forms and endless natural wonders. The Bikamino concept is based on the idea of international ‘Camino’ walking routes, where a hike transforms into a spiritual journey instead of just another activity. Bikamino enables you to embark on this type of pilgrimage while pedalling through the landscape of an untouched area of the Northern Cape. All you need to do is saddle up and crank on to the Bikamino. bikamino.com, ecobound.co.za
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SNAPSHOT
Riders salute the dawn as they crank from Kookfontein, a hideaway campsite within the expansive Namaqua National Park. EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 63
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SNAPSHOT
Meandering back roads along the Renosterveld hills of Naries Namakwa Retreat allow for late evening and night riding, where the dark side of Namaqualand can be experienced.
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SNAPSHOT
The Namaqua sunsets are unmatched, and quiet back roads and trails let you meander in lost landscapes that surround tiny villages such as Okiep, Komaggas and Gamoep.
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SNAPSHOT
Ruins of old homesteads line the route, each one with a dozen stories to tell.
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image and story credit
image and story credit
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image Photographs and story & words creditby Jacques Marais
image and story credit
SNAPSHOT
With dramatic landscapes, superb macro imagery and unpolluted night skies, the Namaqua Coastal Route is a photographer’s dream. The solemn windmill sentinels make for great subjects along the route. EDITION TWO 2018 │ INTREPID EXPLORER 69
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TOP TIPS
SHARP SHOOTER Ten handy tips to make post-holiday slideshows something friends and family will look forward to
The most basic tools required for good photographs include a camera body, at least one lens, a flash (if this is not already built in) and a durable bag that protects against extreme temperatures, sand and moisture.
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INVEST IN LEARNING, NOT GEAR
In the shots of many famous photographers, the subject is often brought to the foreground while the background is allowed to disappear. When shooting, choose a focal point to establish what exactly the viewer should pay attention to in the photograph — then reel them in.
KEEP IT SIMPLE
If the background in the shot is important, best practice is often to keep things simple. Decide what should be in the frame and exclude anything else that is distracting. If possible, choose a background that is not too busy — the eye should be drawn to the focal point instead of the arbitrary and unintended.
EXPERIMENTATION IS KEY
When photographing an iconic site such as Table Mountain or the Statue of Liberty, try thinking outside of the box in terms of composition: Shoot from the floor with a wide-angle lens or shoot from above. Alternatively, wait for dusk and use a tripod plus a slow shutter speed to capture the soft light and ghostly movements of passers-by. 70
Always try including a person in your photograph as people add an emotional aspect to images. Humans also bring a sense of scale to the shot, adding to its grandeur and appeal. A human or animal often makes the difference between eye candy and a powerful, emotive photo.
FIND FACES IN PLACES
Here is the truth: Great photos can be achieved with even the most modest digital camera and a standard lens. Learning the basics of photography is far more valuable than having the most expensive gear.
FIDDLE WITH THE FOCUS
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THE HUMAN ELEMENT
Confidence is one of the biggest obstacles for any travel photographer to overcome. When approaching people, be polite and respectful. Show people shots of themselves on the screen — it’s a good icebreaker and may help them relax, allowing for more candid portraits.
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TAKE NOTES
After each photography session, write down any details about the location and what was captured. Descriptions of places, people and events will help tell a story through your images. Some cameras even allow sound bites to be attached to images.
AU NATUREL
It’s tempting to use a flash all the time but try to refrain from doing so — it usually looks harsh and unnatural, especially indoors. Low light can result in camera shake (which causes blurry photos) but it’s possible to take great photographs without a flash. Try using a tripod wherever possible — a supported camera can provide the correct exposure as long as the shutter is open for long enough.
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SAFETY FIRST
Most places are relatively safe but it’s important to always remain conscious of the surroundings when taking photographs in a new city. Take regular breaks from the viewfinder and ensure equipment is covered by adequate travel insurance.
Words: Simon Capstick-Dale; Photography: Courtesy images
TRAVEL LIGHT
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FOR SA’S WIDEST OF TOP SPORTS
RANGE
GEAR
41 BRANCHES NATIONWIDE, STOCKING BIG-BRANDED EQUIPMENT, FOOTWEAR AND APPAREL
Shop online: www.sportsmanswarehouse.co.za For your nearest store call toll free 0800 003 051
T R AV E L H AC K E R
C O M PA C T I N N O VAT I O N SUNDAY SPRAWL
LAUNDRY ON - THE - GO
Take indoor comforts outdoors with the Natural Instincts Padded Bushveld Chair. With a heavyduty fabric and sturdy frame, this chair reclines to different levels so you can adjust it to suit your preference. While soaking in magnificent views and fresh air, nestle into its soft built-in pillow for the utmost in comfort and relaxation. Natural Instincts Padded Bushveld Chair R979, outdoorwarehouse.com
Perfect for a rough-and-tumble outdoor adventure, the Scrubba Washbag does your laundry wherever you are. This pocket-sized, portable “washing machine” is lightweight, equipped with a flexible washboard and only needs two to four litres of water with a little laundry detergent to achieve a machine-quality wash. In addition, its easy-release air valve allows this handy contraption to double up as a dry bag for fresh, clean clothes in no time. Scrubba Washbag, R750, Outdoor Warehouse (Only available in store)
AUTHENTIC FLAVOUR A weekend’s camping trip is incomplete without some good ol’ South African braaivleis — and mouth-watering sauce to go with it. Whether you are backpacking through the Karoo or braaiing poolside on your getaway, Jimmy’s Steakhouse Sauce adds a burst of flavour with an extra touch of herbs, spices and tangy chutney to burgers, ribs and everything in between.
LET THE MUSIC PLAY
POWER UP
Complement a leisurely outdoor escape with some of your favourite feel-good tunes. The Volcano Splash Series floating speaker boasts full IPX6 waterproofing, which means you can keep the jams blasting on the beach, at the pool and even in the shower. Connect wirelessly using a bluetooth-enabled device or via auxiliary port. This nifty device is durable and has a rechargable lithium-ion battery. It also features a bulit-in speaker for hands-free phone calls.
Camping or hiking off-the-grid is definitely rejuvenating for the soul but can be draining for a smartphone battery. Avoid 0% battery life with the SunStream Pro Solar Panel and PowerBank Combo. Charging to one amp by the sun, the device is ideal for demanding tech such as tablets, GPS devices and smartphones. Durable, waterproof and fast-charging, you can have a fully powered phone in less than two hours — wherever you may venture.
Volcano Splash Series Bluetooth Speaker, R499, outdoorwarehouse.com
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SunStream Pro Solar Panel and Powerbank Combo, R899, outdoorwarehouse.com
Words: Farah Khalfe; Photography: Courtesy images
Jimmy’s Steakhouse Sauce, R18 for 375 ml, jimmysauces.co.za
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COME IN LOUD AND CLEAR Experience proven audio quality so your employees are heard loud and clear.
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THE LIST
S A ’ S S A FA R I W O N D E R S
ROYAL MALEWANE, THORNYBUSH GAME RESERVE Situated in the heart of Thornybush Game Reserve, bordering the greater Kruger National Park, lies the luxurious and secluded Royal Malewane safari lodge. With a vast population of wildlife, Thornybush is home to some of the best game-viewing in Africa. Boasting the most experienced trackers and guides on the continent, Royal Malewane offers intimate experiences and close sightings of the Big Five. Recently refurbished, this stylish getaway exudes the old-world elegance of a bygone era with thatched roofs and an interior furnished with opulent antiques and plush Persian rugs. Royal Malewane has six Luxury Suites*, two Royal Suites with two bedrooms each, and Africa House — an exclusive bush villa with six bedrooms. Groups staying at Africa House will be treated to their own private chef and housekeeping team, a game ranger, tracker and a private game-drive vehicle, while those in the Royal Suite will be pampered with a private chef and butler. A state-of-the-art gym and spa facilities ensure you remain well rested and rejuvenated throughout your stay. From R24 500 to R784 760
* Rates for luxury suites are per person per night (pp pn), all other rates are per unit per night (pu pn) + 27(0) 15 793 0150, info@royalmalewane.com, theroyalportfolio.com
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JAMALA MADIKWE ROYAL SAFARI LODGE A tribute to African excellence, this lodge offers an authentic outdoor safari experience, enveloped in a cloak of luxury and colonial-style charm. The Madikwe Game Reserve, located in South Africa’s North West Province, is a 75 000-hectare region of untamed beauty, characterised by dense bushveld, pristine open plains and rocky terrain. The rugged landscape is home to a plethora of animal species — 28 to be exact — including 25 gemsbok and five cheetah, and daily game drives through the reserve include incredible sightings of the Big Five and Super Seven. After an adventure-filled day, guests can unwind beneath a canopy of stars. Facilities include a wooden deck with expansive views of the Jamala Madikwe waterhole and the Savannah plains, an outdoor shower, a fireplace, a walk-in dressing room and private rim-flow and sala pools. From R9 835 to R10 735 pp pn (sharing) +27 (0) 82 927 3129, info@jamalamadikwe.com, jamalamadikwe.com
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THE LIST
UMKULU ADVENTURES
LONDOLOZI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE In the heart of the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve, within the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park, stands a place rich in history where animals roam free. Londolozi, from the Zulu word meaning ‘protector of all living things’, lives up to its name. Famous for its intimate leopard sightings, the reserve is also known for its high concentration of lions and white rhino, and is committed to social upliftment, conservation and land restoration through various initiatives. Its five camps cater to a range of budgets and provide comfort and luxury at all levels. For a luxe escape, head to Tree Camp, a lodge nestled in a leafwood tree canopy and sporting plaited leather seats, Ralph Lauren wallpaper and a private swimming pool. Alternatively, head out to the Private Granite Suites, each with its own outdoor bath and interiors that echo the granite rocks enclosing the space. For the more adventurous, Vart and Pioneer Camps boast magnificent views and a modern aesthetic — although you are more likely to spend your time on the 16 000 hectares of land, tracking animals and traversing the wilderness. Families with young children are welcome at Founders Camp, which boasts chalets made from recycled natural elements and decorated in an eclectic mix of bushveld and bohemian pieces.
Umkulu Adventures are the go-to providers for one-of-a-kind exhilarating adventure safaris. Specialising in river rafting, kayaking, fly-in and tailor-made safaris, and corporate team-builds, the Umkulu crew focus on small-group activities that lessen the company’s carbon footprint and provide a more personalised, educational experience for guests. Explore the beauty of the Kalahari Transfrontier Park with a guided self-drive, embark on a scenic hiking trail in the Northern Cape or venture even further to the famous Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls, accompanied by experienced tour guides, who will ensure your trip is as memorable and informative as possible. Snap-happy travellers can also book a six-day photographic safari in Kgalagadi, bordering South Africa and Botswana, where they will learn the basics of wildlife photography while enjoying everything an African safari experience offers. From R18 500 pp for a six-day photographic safari (six people) +27 (0) 82 082 6715, info@umkuluadventures.com, umkuluadventures.com
From R12 950 to R22 750 pp pn +27 (11) 280 6655, reservations@londolozi.co.za, londolozi.com
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THE LIST
NAMIBIA RESERVATIONS Don’t let the name fool you as this safari company operates in five African countries, including South Africa. Whether premium accommodation or tailor-made itineraries are the preference, Namibia Reservations will customise guests’ experience within their budget and travel arrangements. Although not a safari, a highlight that should be added to any itinerary to South
Africa should be a canoe trip on the Orange River, the longest river in South Africa. The river rises in the Drakensberg mountains along the borders of South Africa and Lesotho and passes through the Richtersveld area in its more than 2 000 km journey to meet the Atlantic Ocean. Choose from a four- or six-day trip with all equipment supplied and experienced guides. With the exception of liquor and soft drinks‚ catering is also included, so guests will be ensured a five-star meal for breakfast, lunch and supper. PRICE ON REQUEST +264 (67) 304 716, info@namibiareservations.com, namibreservations.com
ROAM MANOR HOUSE in the Karoo
ROAM SAFARI LODGE in the Karoo
ROAM EXPLORER CAMP in the Karoo
Roam Private Game Reserve offers an eco-tourism experience in 5000 hectares of malaria-free scrubveld in the vast Great Karoo, South Africa’s mysterious and ancient semi-desert landscape.
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THE LIST
AQUILA SAFARI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE Just two hours outside Cape Town, in the historic town of Touws River, lies Aquila Private Game Reserve. With half- and full-day safaris, and a range of overnight packages, Aquila guarantees an unforgettable wilderness experience. Regardless of time constraints, the Reserve encourages guests to make a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of the city to the great outdoors. For trips longer than a day, the reserve offers stately lodges and cottages in Premier, Standard and Family options, each offering creature comforts for a luxury bush break. Expect alfresco outdoor showers, cosy private fireplaces, mini bars and breath-taking expansive views of the reserve. For the ultimate pamper session after a long day in the wild, Aquila’s fully-equipped spa specialises in natural treatments, has a triple-volume restaurant as well as a sleek infinity pool and deck for lounging beneath the African sun. From R1 005 to R3 230 pp for day trips and R1 910 to R4 635 pp pn +27 (0) 21 430 7260, res@aquilasafari.com, aquilasafari.com
The perfect recluse for true nature lovers, this camp is situated within Dinokeng Big Five Game Reserve and offers a unique tented experience that allows for complete immersion in the wilderness. Each tented camp has a unique style and an exclusive setup that caters for various group sizes — from family-centric getaways to large camping groups of up to eight people. After adventure-filled days, huddle around the firepit for cosy nights beneath a starry sky and embrace the tranquility and sounds of the wild, including the roar of lions, the bark of jackals and birdsong. Early-morning and night-time bush walks are available and for each twonights’ stay, guests receive a free twohour game drive. The surrounding area also offers numerous activities for adrenaline junkies such as ziplining, abseiling and hot-air balloon rides. For foodies, the larger reserve sports seven eateries, including the a la carte Kingfisher Restaurant, Ngata Smokehouse & Grill — where you can dig in to succulent steaks that have been dry-aged — and Arlington Brewery & Cidery. From R190 to R1 000 pp pn (sharing) +27 (0) 82 494 0491, info@thorntreebushcamp.co.za, thorntreebushcamp.co.za
Words: Farah Khalfe; Photography: Courtesy images
THORN TREE BUSH CAMP
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Discover the bushveld magic “The biggest adventure you can take is to live the life of your dreams.�
Experience a Tented Bush Camp, set up inside the Dinokeng Big Five Game Reserve, where the big five roam free in the African Bushveld. Sit around a crackling fire, discussing the days adventurers then go to sleep listening to the sounds of the African Bushveld. Wake up to the beautiful bird calls and amazing Sunrises.
Tel.: + 27 (0)10 300 5774 Cell:+ 27 (0)82 494 0491 E-mail: info@thorntreebushcamp.co.za Website: www.thorntreebushcamp.co.za thorntreecamp thorntreebushcamp
COMPETITION
WIN!
Less than two hours from Cape Town, nestled at the foothills of Babbedasberg in the Robertson Wine Valley, lies a working wine and olive farm that also offers luxurious and private five-star accommodation. Orange Grove Farm is surrounded by majestic rock formations, crystal-clear waterfalls and a myriad fauna and flora, and each of its stylish and private cottages combine comfort and beauty for a truly rejuvenating getaway.
A luxe farm stay worth
R 7 080
To win a a two-night self-catered stay for you and a partner that includes full service of a luxury cottage, firewood, wireless internet and parking, email the answer to the following question to susan.ball@anapublishing.com: In which category of the Sanlam Top Destination Awards is Orange Grove Farm?
Orange Grove Farm is a nominee in the Self-Catering category of the Sanlam Top Destination Awards 2018, taking place on 20 September 2018 at The Bay Hotel in Camps Bay, Cape Town. The Sanlam Top Destination Awards is a celebration of local hospitality and the travel and tourism industry, and both local establishments and public voters can win incredible prizes, including one of four unique David Green timepieces worth R4 000. Voting for the awards ended on 1 August 2018.
Photography: Courtesy images
Visit orangegrovefarm.co.za and topdestinationawards.com for more information.
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Terms and conditions: 1 The prize is valid until 30 April 2019, subject to availability. 2 The prize is not valid during peak season from 15 December 2018 to 15 January 2019. 3 Entrants must reside within the Republic of South Africa. 4 Transport and catering not included.
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BIG 5 SAFARI & SPA Real Africa. Real Close To Cape Town.
EXPERIENCE A BIG 5 SAFARI UNDER 2 HOURS FROM CAPE TOWN
4-STAR ACCOMMODATION | SPA | GAME DRIVE | HORSEBACK & QUAD BIKE SAFARI At the award-winning Aquila Private Game Reserve and Spa, visitors will enjoy a luxurious Big 5 Safari just two hours from Cape Town. With outstanding personal service and magnificent facilities; it just does not get any better. The new world-class Spa at Aquila adds to the already exceptional services at the Reserve. It is a masterpiece of luxury that is defined by its serenity and creative use of natural elements. Make sure you contact the reservations team today to secure your safari stay at Aquila.
TRANQUILA SPA INDOOR HEATED POOL | SAUNA | STEAM ROOM | RELAXATION AREA | OUTDOOR POOL | TEN TREATMENT ROOMS GROUP OR COUPLES ROOM | NAIL BAR FACILITIES & ACTIVITIES 4-STAR ESTABLISHMENT | PREMIER, FAMILY & LUXURY COTTAGES | LODGE ROOMS | DAY TRIP SAFARI | HORSEBACK SAFARI QUAD BIKE SAFARI | STAR SAFARI | OVERNIGHT SAFARI | FLY IN SAFARI | WINE TASTING | INDOOR & OUTDOOR RESTAURANTS OUTDOOR POOL | WET BAR | CIGAR LOUNGE | CONFERENCE CENTRE | SPA | LIBRARY | CURIO SHOP | CHILDREN’S FACILITIES & JUNIOR RANGER PROGRAMME
Aquilasafaris | Aquilasafari www.aquilasafari.com RESERVATIONS: +27 (0)21 430 7260 | MOBILE: +27 (0)83 301 9222 | RES@AQUILASAFARI.COM
B O N V O YAG E
I have had trouble with obtaining visas ahead of previous work assignments. My very first trip to England in 2009 could have resulted in a mini heart attack — considering I had already begun my journey from Durban — if not for a very kind gentleman who travelled from Pretoria to meet me at OR Tambo International with my passport and UK visa moments before I was meant to depart for Heathrow International Airport. If that hair-raising experience was not enough to put me off travelling for life, what took place ahead of my 2012 trip to Sri Lanka surely should have. Having ‘misplaced’ my passport in the weeks leading up to my trip, I was forced to travel with a black temporary passport — the South African Department of Home Affairs still graciously issued those back then — instead of my regular one. I had no visa when I left South African shores for a trek into, what was for me, the virtual unknown. Arriving in Colombo, I still had no visa and visions of being turned away at Customs and ordered back on a plane to South Africa were vivid. But the heart palpitations I was suddenly experiencing had more to do with the prospect of possibly spending a night in a subcontinental detention cell. When I arrived at the desk, an official in full military regalia inspected me up and down — in a way only an army official could — and enquired: ‘Are you here for the cricket?’ I gingerly uttered a ‘Yes, sir’. He took another look at my temporary passport, saw I was from South Africa and said ‘Cricket journalist... AB de Williers wery good player. You know AB?’ To which I hastily responded ‘Yes, yes — he’s my friend!’ ‘Okay, wery good. Welcome to Sri Lanka.’ It pays to have ‘friends’ in high places, it seems. Six years later and I am back in the land of sun and spice, but not without what has now become my customary
visa ‘irregularities’. On this occasion, I even had a visa in my possession issued by the Sri Lanka tourism association. But, once again, there is a glitch. My visa seems to have been issued to a redundant passport number and I am sure I leave a trail of perspiration behind me as I approached the Customs desk with great apprehension. Fortunately, I am given the green light — I didn’t even need to mention my ‘friend’ this time around — and I am on my way to enjoy my combined work-holiday trip once more. Waiting for my wife and I at Bandaranaike International Airport is Sampath. Although another two-hour drive to Galle follows our 25-hour journey that started in Cape Town, via Johannesburg and Singapore to Colombo, Sampath ensures it is entertaining throughout. After a good night’s rest, we make our way to the historic Galle Fort, where Fazal — restaurant owner, chef and travel guide extraordinaire — await us. Besides enjoying the tastiest chicken curry this side of the Indian Ocean, being able to see Galle through the eyes of Fazal is a gift. He describes the heritage of the 16th-century Dutch Fort in vivid detail and passionately regales us about the modern-day issues facing the playground that seven generations of his family have inhabited. A born-and-bred Capetonian, I feel Fazal’s pain. While the Galle Fort is an undoubtedly beautiful attraction, the heart and soul of the area is being lost due to an influx of European investors — much like the transformation Cape Town’s Bo-Kaap is undergoing. I realise that I need not travel halfway around the world — and endure multiple heart attacks due to visa issues — to discover unique beauty and culture. It’s right on my doorstep. South Africa is a myriad of mores just waiting to be discovered. And you might just meet a ‘Fazal’ along the way...
Words: Zaahier Adams
‘Wery good... You know AB?’
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