The Intrepid Explorer - 3rd quarter 2015 by The Intrepid Explorer

www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 3rd Quarter Edition 2015 R29.90 Incl. VAT

WIN

A getaw Bransonay at Richard Privat ’s Ulusaba worth ae Reserve wh R51 10o0pping !

RHINO TEARS

The war to save our wildlife

STILL WATERS RUN DEEP Into Belize’s Great Blue Hole WIND BENEATH THEIR WINGS Paragliding with vultures over Nepal

TAMING WILD AFRICA SA’S RECORD-SMASHING ADVENTURE SURFER CHRIS BERTISH PIONEERS NEW OKAVANGO EXPEDITION ON STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD

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• ROUGH STUFF – The gruelling Expedition Africa race • CHANGING COURSE – Craig Harrison finds adventure at the South Pole • WILD RIDE – Ivan Zimmermann completes 12 000km Tour d’Afrique • THROUGH THE LENS – Best of the 2015 Wild Shots Wildlife Photography Symposium

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CONTENTS 06

FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

EDITOR’S NOTE Roots are roots!

COMPETITION

THE WIND BENEATH

Win a three-night stay for two at Sir Richard Branson’s Ulusaba Private Game Reserve, worth a whopping R51 000!

paddleboard

TAMING WILD AFRICA

South Africa’s record-breaking waterman and adventurer, Chris Bertish, pioneered the new NG32 Okavango Delta Expedition on stand-up

HIS WINGS

Bas de Vos follows in the flight path of a vulture named Kevin for a fine view of Nepal

CHANGING COURSE

Mechanical engineer Craig Harrison found adventure in ice and snow at the South Pole, writes Lana Jacobsen

POSTCARDS FROM THE EDGE

Graham Howe drives, walks, climbs and island-hops along the new Wild Atlantic Way coastal route in Ireland

4 BY 4

ON THE FRONT LINE

Lisa de Speville explains why participants in the Expedition Africa event are drawn to this gruelling adventure race

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Our editor Robbie Stammers gets a first-hand look at how SANParks rangers are equipping themselves to fight the Rhino War and save these precious animals

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C on ten ts

WILD RIDE Miriam Mannak chatted to Ivan Zimmermann after he completed the Tour d’Afrique: a 12 000km mountain biking adventure from northern to southern Africa

SPRING INTO ACTION The days are getting longer and the sun’s getting brighter—time to hit the trails! Nick Dall has your outdoor gear and garb covered

INTO THE DEEP Matthew Holt dives Belize’s Great Blue Hole, a large submarine vertical cave described as “the most amazing place on Earth”

WHITE-WATER

WONDERLAND

The annual Malabar River Festival in the south of India draws kayakers from all over the world, writes Sarah Kingdom

ORGANISED CHAOS Vanessa Haywood-Sandes details the planning that goes into crewing for her husband—top South African pro trail runner, Ryan Sandes

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ON THE WILD SIDE News from the outdoors

LIFE THROUGH

THE LENS

A glimpse of the top photographs being presented at this year’s Wild Shots Wildlife Photography Symposium

HIT THE ROAD, JACK Catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles: the bundubashing big boys and those more suited to the concrete jungle and the school run

86 87

CAPE UNION MART

STORE LISTINGS THE LAST LAUGH

Every tourist souvenir tells a story, writes Graham Howe

THE LAST WORD We find out what’s cooking with culinary genius and MasterChef SA judge, Pete Goffe-Wood

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Explorer The Intrepid

Live the life of Adventure

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey@insightspublishing.co.za Chief Sub-Editor TANIA GRIFFIN tania@insightspublishing.co.za Advertising Sales Director KEITH HILL keith@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Manager KYLE VILLET kyle@intrepidexplorer.co.za Office Manager TARYN KERSHAW taryn@insightspublishing.co.za Social Media Platforms JESS MOUNEIMNE/JAM MEDIA jess@jammedia.co.za

FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne

Greetings, outdoor friends and family!

trust you are all looking forward to warmer weather after this brutal winter. To me, spring has always symbolised new beginnings. The season not only brings new and blossoming flowers and trees, fresh colours and warmer weather—it also brings opportunity. Opportunity to make ‘new’ New Year’s resolutions: perhaps start an exercise regime, finally take on that vigorous hike, hit a new running trail, or even change your mindset. On the subject of new beginnings, we are so excited about the new baby in our stable: the footwear chain, Tread and Miller. We will have six stores trading in the next year, and are thrilled to see this brand grow into a new favourite of all South Africans. At the same time, we are feverishly planning for the summer and the festive season. This year, we want to lift our game! We want to ensure we have sufficient products to fill your Christmas stockings—for the whole family. We are also constantly working on offering you, our valued clients, impeccable customer service. After all, our motto is to “DARE”: Deliver Awesome Retail Experience. We are in the business of satisfying and entertaining our customers with worldclass shopping experiences and products. And for entertainment of a different kind, I hope you will all be wearing your green and gold in support of our boys at the Rugby World Cup. I will definitely be donning my K-Way Springbok Softshell! Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Editorial Contributors Chris Bertish, Bas de Vos, Lana Jacobsen, Graham Howe, Lisa de Speville, Matthew Holt, Sarah Kingdom, Miriam Mannak, Nick Dall, Vanessa Haywood-Sandes, Pete Goffe-Wood Photography Cover: Craig Kolesky/Nikon/Lexar Dollar Photo Club, iStock, Ravi Gajjar, Craig Harrison, Debbie Yazbek, Graham Howe, Bruce Viaene, Matthew Holt, Mandy Ramsden, Fiona McIntosh, Tobias Bernhard Raff, Art Wolfe, Wim Vorster, Karen Shermbrucker, Marcus Jooste, Kim Wolhuter, Janaina Matarozzo, Obie Oberholzer Back Office Support and Accounts Solutions PBS Accounting & Administration Services: Peter Sharp Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer RSA Litho Distribution Cape Union Mart stores On The Dot Distribution Media Support Services PUBLISHED BY

Managing Director: Robbie Stammers Physical address: 174A Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Websites: www.intrepidexplorer.co.za www.insightspublishing.co.za

No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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Our Intrepid Explorer

CONTRIBUTORS For Lisa de Speville, the sport of adventure racing proved life-changing. Only a year into the sport and burning for moremore-more, she deregistered from university, started www.AR.co.za and spent the next few years writing for magazines and travelling to interesting destinations to report on events. She is the co-author of the book, Adventure Racing. Lisa’s annual adventuretalks event, FEAT, is an evolution of her passion for adventure racing, expeditions and the people who undertake them. Lana Jacobson is a compulsive wordsmith— freelancing as journalist, author, web content producer, blogger and media consultant. An intrepid and hopelessly addicted traveller, she obtained a master’s degree in creative travel writing to feed her spirit of adventure. She has travelled extensively, to far-flung places such as Kenya’s Kaisut Desert and Cambodia among others. When not travelling, Lana hangs her hat in Joburg and devotes full-time attention to her business, The Writer Studio. Chris Bertish is worldrenowned for surfing waves the size of triplestorey buildings and for taking on extreme challenges such as stand-up paddleboarding across the Atlantic. He likes to say he’s just a normal guy, a regular Joe facing the same life struggles as everyone else. The difference is that Chris is willing to throw himself over the ledge of an ocean wave, paddle unsupported for seven days up treacherous coastlines alone, in extreme winds, battling the elements or paddling across the Atlantic on an SUP. He is now also a prominent speaker, doing talks all around South Africa. Chris is a Cape Union Mart brand ambassador.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications for more than 25 years. When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm. Nick Dall is a freelance writer who has lived and fished all over the world—postings include Italy, Argentina, Bolivia and Vietnam but he is back in Cape Town rediscovering the trout streams and dams of his youth. His young daughter and his mortgage also suggest that he is finally settling down. Matthew Holt is a self-confessed list-ticker. He’s climbed the seven continental summits, skied the last degree to both Poles and, so far, climbed more than 30 of the world’s 50 most prominent peaks. He’s also chanced his luck at bog snorkelling, cheese rolling, wife carrying and bull running. A freelance writer based in Cape Town, Matthew is the author of two books: The Miles High Club and Life’s Rich Tapestry. Miriam Mannak is a journalist and photographerbased in Cape Town. She c overs a range oftopics including travel and tourism in southern Africa and related issues such as the environment and sustainable social development.

Sarah Kingdom is an Indian Mountaineering Federation-recognised mountain guide. Born and brought up in Sydney, Australia, she climbed her first peak when she was 10 years old. Keen to keep up the ‘family tradition’ of climbing a notable peak at a young age with her own children, but now living in Africa, Sarah took her eldest son up Mt Kilimanjaro when he was also 10. She regularly guides on Kilimanjaro, and has climbed and guided expeditions in Nepal, India, Tibet, Russia and Turkey. She owns an 8 000-acre cattle ranch in Central Zambia, where she currently resides when she’s not climbing. Vanessa HaywoodSandes has been an entertainer from a very early age. One of her career highlights was starring as a supporting lead in the highly acclaimed, Oscarnominated District 9. Not long thereafter she became entrenched in the endurance sporting industry and completed races such as the Absa Cape Epic and the Leadville 100 (Colorado). Even though she still appears in front of the camera and as MC at various events, Vanessa is also the public relations, communications and brand executive for Peak Sport Management, managing projects/events, brands and athletes. Bas de Vos is a science student at UCT, fisherman and diver who, while backpacking through Thailand, Cambodia and Laos, and riding a motorbike through Vietnam and Africa during his gap year, discovered he also likes writing about travel. When he’s not in the laboratory or library, he’s dreaming about his next adventures and the stories they’ll inspire.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Roots are roots!

need to share something that’s really been irking me for quite some time—and unless I get it off my chest, I fear it’ll make me spontaneously combust. Let me first explain that myokymia is a sudden, involuntary movement of particularly the eyelid— an eye-muscle spasm. These spasms often occur in stressful situations or when the affected individual has gone too long without sufficient rest. In my case, insufficient rest was not the cause of my myokymia, but I swear I’ll not rest well until I release this pent-up negative energy. It was spurred on by an ‘Australian’ couple we had the ‘pleasure’ of encountering as my wife and I settled in to watch the Boks versus Wallabies clash a fortnight ago at a luxury game lodge. Picture the scene: a gorgeous African bush landscape, myriad birds singing, giraffes twerking by, ellies trumpeting in the distance, and a view that’d make a landscape photographer choke on his pap and vleis. The couple introduced themselves as Australians from Brisbane, and their kids were draped in the colours of the Australian rugby team and chanting “Aussie, Aussie, Aussie, Oi, Oi, Oi!” This wouldn’t seem so unusual, were it not for the very blatant fact that the entire family had strong South African accents. When I mentioned they sounded local, they screwed up their noses and said they’d left here six years ago. The wife had said earlier she was 35, so basic maths would indicate she’d left here at the age of 29. However, they proceeded to spout forth about the wonders of Australia, and condemn South Africa in every conceivable way. My wife could see me biting my lip so badly that I was concerned I may draw blood. To add insult to injury, the Boks lost the game in the last minute, which sent the ‘Aussies’ into rapturous shrieks and applauds. Now this is where my issue comes in: If you don’t like the country that birthed you, that enabled you to gain a privileged education, and you’re now back on holiday so that your kids “can witness wild animals in their natural environment”, then keep it to yourself. My mom taught me that if you don’t have anything good to say, rather say nothing at all! Don’t return here to experience the beauty of your country (yes, you are NOT Australian) and then spend every moment you can, extolling your wonderful ‘new land’ and saying how much better it is. In that case, rather stay there—we’re better off without you. Fight it or try to deny the land of your birth as much as you want, but you cannot and should not discard it; most of all, you come across as a jerk when you lambast it. Emigrate if that’s what you feel is best for you and your family—we won’t judge you (we will a little, truth be told)—but however far you move, wherever you may go, South Africa made you, it flows in your blood. Your roots will always be your roots, irrelevant of where your tree is replanted eventually. By all means, may you flourish in your new habitat, but you shouldn’t ever forget the home soil from which you grew; you just need to hold on to it and accept it—and for goodness’ sake, at least appreciate it! Now that I’ve had my little rant, may I wish all our readers, regardless of where you may be from or, indeed, wherever you may be going: Happy travels, and don’t forget to live the life of adventure.

Robbie Stammers ©RAVI GAJJAR

Publishing Editor

PS: Don’t forget to LIKE us on Facebook (theintrepidexplorerSA) and visit www.intrepidexplorer.co.za for loads of extras. What’s more, you can download the digital version of this edition for FREE on Apple App Store or Google Play.

Congratulations to the winners of our last edition’s competitions!

The BIG winner who won a five-night stay at Kurland Hotel, worth R23 100, is Icky Kurgan. Micho Opperman wins the Solsave my-powa! solar power bank, worth R500. www.intrepidexplorer.co.za

I am an African

I owe my being to the hills and the valleys, the mountains and the glades, the rivers, the deserts, the trees, the flowers, the seas and the ever changing seasons that define the face of our native land.My body has frozen in our frosts and in our latter-day snows. It has thawed in the warmth of our sunshine and melted in the heat of the midday sun. The crack and the rumble of the summer thunders, lashed by startling lightening, have been a cause both of trembling and of hope. The fragrances of nature have been as pleasant to us as the sight of the wild blooms of the citizens of the veld. The dramatic shapes of the Drakensberg, the soil-coloured waters of the Lekoa, iGqili noThukela, and the sands of the Kgalagadi, have all been panels of the set on the natural stage on which we act out the foolish deeds of the theatre of our day. At times, and in fear, I have wondered whether I should concede equal citizenship of our country to the leopard and the lion, the elephant and the springbok, the hyena, the black mamba and the pestilential mosquito. A human presence among all these, a feature on the face of our native land thus defined, I know that none dares challenge me when I say: I am an African! Extract from former president Thabo Mbeki’s famous speech at the adoption of The Republic of South Africa Constitution Bill in 1996

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Out a n d a bout

WIN BIG

with The Intrepid Explorer and Ulusaba

One lucky reader will enjoy a three-night stay for two at Sir Richard Branson’s exclusive game reserve, worth a massive R51 000!

ocated in the western sector of the Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, Ulusaba— meaning ‘Place of Little Fear’—strikes the perfect balance between nature and nurture, and is an excellent place to observe the Big Five or simply kick back and unwind. Ulusaba has taken a step away from the traditional colonial style by offering swimming pools, gymnasiums, a wine cellar, Aroma Boma spas with panoramic views, a Bush Observatory perfect for stargazing, as well as tennis courts. Guests are spoilt for choice: safari walks, moon-lit bush dinners and, of course, the twice-daily game drives. Book individual rooms or exclusively hire individual lodges or the hotel as a whole. Rock Lodge and Safari Lodge each offers a unique experience. Safari Lodge is built along the banks of the dry Mabrak riverbed, where guests will love the sense of adventure as they cross the swing bridges between exquisite tree-house rooms while elephants, bushbuck, lion and other local wildlife pass by. Rock Lodge is perched high on the summit of a koppie and provides panoramic views over miles of bush, the wildlife roaming within the lowveld below. It includes the luxurious Cliff Lodge, which has two magnificent suites. When booked exclusively, guests are provided with a private chef and their own game-drive vehicle. Facilities include a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, gym and mini Aroma Boma spa. Younger pride members of the family can visit the Cub’s Club, which runs a fun daily programme of activities aiming to both entertain and educate kids about their surroundings. With unique sights, sounds and smells of Africa on your doorstep in the kind of style and luxury one would expect from a five-star boutique hotel, Ulusaba is the perfect place to experience a memorable safari.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Our fantastic prize includes the following: • 3 nights’ accommodation for two, at Rock Lodge or Safari Lodge; • All meals served in a variety of locations around the lodge; • All beverages including a top-quality wine list and fine champagne; • Twice-daily game drives—traversing an area of 13 500ha frequented by the Big Five—accompanied by a fully trained and experienced ranger and tracker; • A daily walking safari accompanied by your ranger and tracker; • Lounges at each lodge equipped with DVD, video, music and library; • An observatory, perfect for stargazing; • A wine cellar at Safari Lodge with an outdoor dining area, great for private dining; • Tennis courts with viewing pavilion and rackets and balls provided; • Use of the fully equipped gymnasium at either lodge; and • Laundry service. To enter, send the answer to the question below, along with your name and contact details, to taryn@intrepidexplorer.co.za before 1 October 2015. (Only one entry per person.) The winners will be notified by email or telephone, with their names published in the next edition of The Intrepid Explorer magazine. Question: What does the name Ulusaba mean? Terms & conditions: The prize may be redeemed between 10 January and 10 December 2016, subject to Ulusaba’s availability at the time of booking, and block-out dates may apply over busy periods. Rooms will be allocated on a run-of-the-house basis and at the availability of the lodges. The prize includes 14% VAT and SA Tourism Bed Levy. All other normal Ulusaba booking terms and conditions apply. Due to the nature of activities undertaken and because of the incidence of malaria in the region, all guests are required to sign an indemnity waiver on arrival. The prize value may not be redeemed for cash.

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C h r is B er tis h

Taming WILD AFRICA

SOUTH AFRICA’S RECORDBREAKING WATERMAN AND ADVENTURER, CHRIS BERTISH, TOOK HIS STAND-UP PADDLEBOARD DOWN TO BOTSWANA TO PIONEER THE NEW NG32 OKAVANGO DELTA EXPEDITION

On 15 March 2015, a small group of adventurers and paddlers set off from Cape Town in high spirits, with a mix of nervousness and excitement. Their destination: a little-known former hunting concession area deep inside Botswana’s Okavango Delta. Their mission: to be the first people to explore the far regions of the famous delta on stand-up paddleboard (SUP).

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

C h r is B er tis h

T PREVIOUS SPREAD: Another magical, fiery sunset THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Paddling up the delta, keeping an eye out for hippos; Our basic tented camp; The large elephant bull that had been awaiting our arrival at camp OPPOSITE: Game spotting is easier when you’re already standing up on the water

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

here were eight of us on the plane to Maun: four women and four men. A few had only done a small amount of paddling in the past, but were still game to come along on this inaugural expedition. (They weren’t exactly put at ease reading the in-flight magazine article by a journalist who’d narrowly avoided being attacked by an angry hippopotamus in the same region!) After arrival in Maun, we were collected by Andrew Harkness, who would be our head guide. Having guided in the delta for 11 years, he shared some tips and inside knowledge during the three-hour 4x4 journey to our base camp in the NG32 concession from where the adventure would all begin. We spotted almost all of the Big 5 before we even reached the

equipment at the camp, while we stayed at the vehicle to unload the rest. While seeing to our personal items, a large male elephant appeared from the undergrowth directly across the river. It seemed we were blocking his favourite route across the water. We all jumped back into the safety of the 4x4, waiting with bated breath as the large bull paced along the water’s edge, deciding whether or not to cross over toward us… Fortunately, the return of the mekoro spooked the bull, and he retreated into the undergrowth. It was a pretty tense moment—and our real trip hadn’t even begun! Our eight-person paddling team, plus four other local guides led by Wako, loaded up into the mekoro and headed out and around an island to the base

drop-off point, but little did we know that the adventure would start before the expedition was officially under way. We thought we’d be driven straight to the camp. Wrong. The vehicle stopped just short of the delta river basin, where we unloaded our gear and inflatable boards. Harkness introduced us to Waco Ngwananoka, a local Botswanan mokoro (traditional wooden river canoe) guide who helped set up our SUPs. He went ahead to drop off some of the gear and

camp a few hundred metres away. We had to skirt an area with two large hippos that were a little perturbed as we slid by, judging by their discontented snorts and grunts. We arrived at the base camp as the sun set, to the warm welcome of five more local mokoro guides and eight domed tents on the river’s edge. They were rustic and simple but comfortable, and just what we needed before setting off the following morning into the wild.

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amazing evening sky, and serenaded by all the birds, beetles and beasts bustling around in the twilight, before night set in and the predators come out to prey.

At sunrise, we loaded our personal gear onto our individual inflatable SUPs, strapped on with waterproof dry bags. The rest would be transported in the mekoro following behind. It didn’t take long to realise we were in the wilderness and very exposed as we paddled along the side of the riverbanks and peered into the heavily reeded undergrowth of the delta tributaries. We passed more hippos, a water snake, some elephants, a pair of fish eagles, a herd of waterbuck and numerous giraffe before stopping in a shallow pool for a lunch break.

matched only by the fiery colours that greeted us in the evening sky as we pulled into a new place to set up camp. Having paddled over 12km, we were keen to set up base before the sun went down. But we were stopped by a massive, tusked male elephant that just wouldn’t budge! The guides finally persuaded the huge beast to move off, and we quickly set up our overnight camp, lit a big fire to braai our dinner, and shared some drinks and stories around the campfire, until the exhaustion of the day’s paddling got the better of us. One by one, we headed off

With the water levels at their lowest they had been the entire year, some areas became very tight and difficult through which to paddle. Some channels were so narrow that we could barely fit through, whether on SUP or mokoro. We couldn’t always see what was around us, but the high reeds and thickets created great secluded pools for safe rest stops. Too shallow for hippos and crocs to enter, the pools were perfect spots to unwind, rehydrate and snack before continuing. We stopped to view some vultures circling over a dead buffalo, and had to

It was just after midday and we needed to get out of the sweltering sun. We clocked the temperature at 39°C in the shade. We waited until 3 p.m. before heading off again. The meandering tributaries went from 40m wide waterways to tunnel-like streams less than one metre wide, which would barely let us through. The delta changed around us with every turn, and there was a new surprise around each bend. The beauty was unfathomable, the tranquillity

to sleep to the sounds of the wild outdoors, to lions roaring and hyenas calling through the night, and baboons warning of the predators that lurked in the shadows while we slept. The warmth of the morning sun woke us for our second, and last, day on the water. After a quick breakfast and coffee from the fire, we broke down our camp, packed up and headed out to see what the deeper delta had in store for us before we headed back that evening.

be rerouted when our main tributary was blocked by six very unhappy hippos. They may be cute to view from afar, but people forget the hippo is considered one of the most dangerous animals in the African wilds. We decided not even to attempt skirting them, and found an alternative route back to our main base camp. We arrived late that afternoon—but not before the lead safety mokoro bought us to a silent standstill to allow a large hippo to come through the tall

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

C h r is B er tis h

As the sun set over the delta, we were surrounded by the most

C h r is B er tis h

Who is Chris Bertish?

LEFT: Chris Bertish and Ingram Casey, with one of the awesome guides on their shoulders RIGHT: Planning the route with head guide Andrew Harkness was a very important part of our daily adventure

undergrowth and scuttle up the bank to get out of our way. It was a timely reminder why safety on a trip like this and the need for experienced mokoro guides were paramount. We unloaded all our gear and stored our stuff in the tents before setting off on foot into the deep undergrowth in search of early evening game, led by Waco and Andrew, with his rifle at the ready. We enjoyed very close encounters with giraffe, buffalo, zebra, warthogs, monkeys and various antelope, before heading back to the safety of the fire and base camp. As the sun set over the delta, we were surrounded by the most amazing evening sky, and serenaded by all the birds, beetles and beasts bustling around in the twilight, before night set in and the predators come out to prey. That evening we set out the campfire stories, alive with passion and excitement as everyone recounted the day’s highlights, and shared epic adventure stories from previous expeditions and endeavours. We were treated to an amazing bushfire and a dinner of local dishes from the bush oven, with plenty of beer and wine. A group of waterbuck came roaming through the camp, and a Pel’s fishing owl—one of the rarest of all owls—perched above in the tree, watching us all get slower and sleepier. The following morning we packed up our gear and had a hearty breakfast before heading back over to the mainland. We had another awe-inspiring game drive back out of the delta, and got to Maun with time to jump into the pool at the lodge, clean up, catch up on emails, and

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have a well-deserved cold beer and good night’s sleep before flying out in the morning. We all agreed it was a job well done; we were all still alive, with legs and arms still attached, and we had successfully explored an area of the delta that had never before been paddled by SUP. It was a bold expedition with adventure as the theme. We all learnt a great deal, we experienced a whole new world and got to be completely out in the wild, alone, in a very remote part of nature, propelled by our own efforts and without polluting the delta with engine noise or petrol fumes. We experienced something that most people will never have the good fortune of seeing. Connecting with nature, in its most raw and primal state, is a humbling experience. To do it with a group of people from normal working life, not expert sports people or paddlers, proved that an experience like this can change your world, your thoughts, your expectations— your ‘possible’! If they can push their comfort zones and take on the challenge, escape, explore and have an amazing new adventure, doesn’t it make you think you could too? Remove the words “can’t” and “impossible” from your world and it’s amazing what you’ll be able to do. Think of the things you’ll see, the people you’ll meet, the places you’ll go... It all starts with a choice, then a challenge to yourself to say ‘I can’! Chris Bertish thanks Ingram Casey from Escape + Explore.

According to Chris, he is just an ordinary guy, a regular Joe facing the same life struggles as everyone else. The difference is that he is willing to throw himself over the ledge of an ocean wave five stories high, paddle unsupported for seven days up treacherous coastlines alone, in extreme winds, battling the elements, or paddling across the Atlantic on an SUP. He has accomplished in the past two decades more than most people could accomplish in two lifetimes. His love of the sea and all things water has seen him take some of the biggest titles and accolades in this sporting sphere in the last 14 years, with some of them being the 2010 Mavericks Big Wave Invitational title in the biggest surf in history, as well as the more recent smashing of three world records in under a year (including the Guinness World open-ocean 12-hour non-stop SUP distance record) and winning the Nightjar People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year Award for 2014. Chris travels all over the world inspiring audiences to believe that they, too, can achieve great things with the right self-belief, focus and never-give-up attitude. In addition to his global keynote addresses to massive corporates—such as Nedbank, Old Mutual and Elixir Wine Group in the United States— he is also a past TEDx and FEAT (Fascinating Expedition & Adventure Talks) guest speaker. In addition, he is a Cipla Miles for Smiles ambassador and Island Tribe brand ambassador. His motto—Dream it, See it, Believe it, Achieve it—captures his attitude of overcoming struggles to achieve great things. He has proven time and again that if you truly believe in something and you set your sights on that goal, no matter how big, and if you work hard at it, stay focused, determined, resilient and never give up, you can achieve anything. “Nothing is impossible, unless you believe it to be.” For more information on Chris Bertish, visit www.chrisbertish.com. You can also follow him on Facebook (OfficialChrisBertish) and Twitter (@chris_bertish).

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Ba s De Vos 18

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Ba s De Vos

wings i

THE WIND BENEATH HIS BAS DE VOS FOLLOWS IN THE FLIGHT PATH OF A VULTURE FOR A FINE VIEW OF NEPAL

There are many unusual ways of travelling and experiencing the world. Some ride elephants, others paddle canoes, and many ride bicycles. In Pokhara, however, you can watch the world below with a bird of prey as your guide.

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t’s not that I was surprised to find I’d be sharing a taxi that morning when I climbed in the back seat of a vehicle on the main tourist stretch of Nepal’s third-largest city, Pokhara. What I hadn’t anticipated was that the other passenger would be a bird of prey. But, there he sat, snow-white neck feathers puffed up around his bright yellow face, staring at me down a sharp, curved beak with beady black eyes. Meet Egyptian vulture, Kevin. He would not only share a taxi with me, but shortly thereafter he’d guide me as I flung myself off a cliff on a paraglider. So fascinated was I by Kevin that it was a while before I noticed there was a man attached to the raptor’s talons where they sat together in the taxi. Meet Scott Mason, long-time falconer and founder of Nepal’s Parahawking Project. Mason came up with the idea of combining paragliding with falconry over several beers with friends after his first experience of paragliding in Pokhara in 2002. By following birds of prey trained to fly with them, paragliders saw how they could benefit from thermals they wouldn’t find if they relied on their own skills. Using the upward currents of warm air

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discerned by the birds, Mason and his friends saw they would be able to glide about in the sky much longer than would otherwise be possible. But the project isn’t only about providing tourists with extended adventures in the sky; it’s also about protecting the Asian vulture. Once one of the world’s most common large birds of prey, the Asian vulture is today threatened with extinction because of a veterinary drug administered to cattle, called diclofenac. Used as a painkiller in overworked oxen, the drug is toxic to vultures. When they consume the carcasses of recently treated cattle, these birds suffer a painful death. As Kevin and I stared at one another across the seat of the taxi, Mason explained that diclofenac threatens to decimate all nine species of Asian vultures; some populations have been reduced by 99.7%. But the significance of the survival of the birds goes way beyond the desire to conserve a single species. Vultures are

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fundamental to the environmental equilibrium of Asia. A shortage of vultures results in the scavenging niche being opened up to growing hordes of ‘unnatural scavengers’. These include rats and feral dogs, which greatly increase the risk of several diseases such as rabies, rat-bite fever and salmonellosis. One study claims the collapse of the vulture population has indirectly cost India around US$34 billion (more than R425 billion) in increased medical expenses. Efforts to save vultures from diclofenac began in mid-2000. The drug was banned, and locals were educated about the danger thereof and introduced to a safer alternative drug. In Nepal, six ‘vulture restaurants’ were created. These are essentially final resting places for unwanted, sickly and/or old cattle, which are screened for diclofenac. When the animals eventually die, their carcasses are served to hungry wild vultures. Given his fascination with Asian vultures and their guiding skills, Mason

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Ba s De Vos decided to build an adventure/tourism business that would also help promote awareness about the birds’ plight. He established The Parahawking Project, which allocates almost 10% of the approximately R2 300 fee charged for each flight to selected vulture conservation projects in Nepal.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Egyptian vulture Kevin swoops in to claim his reward from the author as they fly above Pokhara. The bird is trained to guide paragliders so they can make the most of the thermals during flights. ABOVE: The peaks of the Himalayan mountain range provide a backdrop to Pokhara LEFT: Kevin prepares for take-off, taking the paragliders on an extended journey in the sky

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We were still talking about the project and how it supports the survival of the raptors when the taxi drew to a halt on top of a tall cliff towering above Pokhara. Mason chatted on as Becky, my flight instructor and human flying companion, strapped me into a tandem paragliding harness with the simple clinking and clanking of clips. Then it was time to go: “Walk, walk, walk,” she said, as we lumbered toward the edge of a cliff. And then, “Run!” It was only as my feet left terra firma that I stopped thinking about protecting the Asian vulture. A wave of uncertainty swept over me. It had required practically no effort to hop off the mountainside and there I was, flying about 700 metres above Pokhara. But the uncertainty quickly melted away. It was replaced by a sense of being Mary Poppins as she opened her umbrella and drifted along with the wind. In fact, it was supremely relaxing. I’d expected to experience an anxious rush of adrenaline while strapped to

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R a c h el L a n g

LEFT: In addition to the paragliding experience, Scott Mason and his team provide a home for several different species of Nepal’s native birds of prey

huge hooked beak? It was, after all, designed to rip flesh from carcasses and crush bone with a single grasp. But, indeed, I didn’t lose a hand in Nepal. Dearest Kevin landed on my arm gracefully, and carefully picked the chunk of buffalo from between my fingers. Once satisfied he had it all, he hopped off his bony perch, briefly dived down for momentum and then unsheathed his mighty wings to soar slowly along, directly in front of us. I wasn’t the only one admiring Kevin’s flying. Although Becky had a collection of some of the most advanced gadgets with her, none of them is anywhere as accurate as Kevin’s ‘tech’. His skills have developed and been perfected over many millennia of natural selection and evolution. By following Kevin’s carefully tuned flight path, we glided above Pokhara for considerably longer than any of the other paragliders filling up the sky. The extended flight meant I could continue to experience the thrill and take in the sights at leisure. I gazed down on

I watched Kevin in his finest and most natural state. I saw him

swoop and soar from angles few will have the fortune ever to experience.

a glorified sheet with nothing between me and the ground. But no, Becky and I floated along calmly, peacefully and comfortably. The wind whistled through the ropes attached to the canopy, creating soothing tunes. I looked down and could just discern colourfully dressed Nepali women moving about as they stirred huge pots of dahl alongside little cottages on the hillside. The sun gleamed off Pokhara Lake. The tall, jagged peaks of the Himalayan mountain range framed the horizon. Did anywhere on Earth offer

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a paraglider a more superior view, I wondered? I was woken from my view-induced trance by the sharp blast of a whistle from behind me. This, I recalled from the short preflight briefing, would be Becky calling Kevin to come and eat. It was my job to feed Kevin. I’d been instructed to extend my arm out and offer Kevin a piece of buffalo as he flew by. As I reached out, meat in hand, I was a tad concerned. Would the thin leather glove I wore be adequate protection from the vulture’s

the beautiful lake below, watched people move about and admired the Himalayan peaks in the distance. Mostly, though, I watched Kevin in his finest and most natural state. I saw him swoop and soar from angles few will have the fortune ever to experience. I imagined I was flying just as he was: vital, unrestrained and alive. Long live the Asian vulture! TripAdvisor ranked The Parahawking Project the number-one activity in Pokhara. For more information, go to www.parahawking.com.

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STEP INTO

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conserving a vanishing way of life

C r a ig Ha r r is on

CRAIG HARRISON MOVED FROM THE SOUTHERN CAPE TO THE SOUTH POLE TO FIND ADVENTURE IN ICE AND SNOW, WRITES LANA JACOBSEN

Changing

COURSE Craig Harrison’s antidote to divorce was extreme: He relocated to the most isolated, driest,

windiest and coldest spot on Earth—the Antarctic. The 48-year-old mechanical engineer had been spending weekends mountain climbing and had become a master scuba diver, but these activities no longer filled the gap in his soul. What he yearned for now was to leave the past behind and tackle the ultimate quest. Photographs Craig Harrison and Debbie Yazbek

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C r a ig Ha r r is on Ice crystals in the Neumayer Station II, an abandoned German base station 20m underground

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s luck would have it, around that time Harrison was having dinner with friends who mentioned a permanent South African base in Antarctica: the SA National Antarctic Programme (SANAP). He learnt that in 1959, the first SA National Antarctic Expedition (SANAE) took place wherein South Africa, together with 11 other countries, founded the Antarctic Treaty— ensuring the region is used for peaceful and scientific purposes only. A trip to the inhospitable continent was the most extreme experience Harrison could conjure up. The SANAP is managed by the Department of Environmental Affairs, and its aim is to understand the natural environment and life in the Antarctic and Southern Ocean through science and technology. The following day, Harrison contacted the SANAP and offered his expertise as a mechanical engineer. Fortuitously, they happened to be in the process of putting together an expedition of 10 people of different disciplines to maintain the base for the next 14 months.

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He wasted no time in driving to Cape Town for an interview. A month went by and Harrison had almost forgotten about the interview when he received a phone call out of the blue—his application had been successful. He had three days to settle his affairs. It took him less than a day to close his handyman business in the dozy village of Sedgefield and report for five weeks of intensive training in Cape Town. This involved a course in firefighting with the fire department, first aid, cooking, abseiling, withstanding extreme cold weather, and operating a vehicle in temperatures of minus 25° Celsius. The team also spent two days rope climbing to simulate freeing oneself if caught in an ice crevice. A chaplain interviewed the team—comprising four scientists and six support members—and mapped out techniques for dealing with isolation. Harrison says with a chuckle, “We finally received boots that came from Japan, but we called them pampoenskoene because they were orange; their soles were 50mm thick with booties inside to keep our feet from freezing. We were also kitted out with thermal clothing, balaclavas and cyclone buffs bought from Cape Union Mart. Cyclone buffs are a most vital accessory,

as they cover one’s head where the most heat gets lost.” The team left the Cape on 6 December 2013, and it took three weeks of sailing seas so rough that it was impossible to even sleep, before they reached the ice shelf. They were spinning so much from The Roaring Forties and The Furious Fifties: the strong westerly winds experienced over the mid-latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere. The gales were vicious and raging, Harrison recalls. “There are 12 major over-wintering bases in the Antarctic and we were situated 308 kilometres from the ice shelf at SANAE IV base station. Although we were scheduled to live in this white

THIS PAGE: Two Challengers (Caterpillars) kept nearby base during winter months OPPOSITE PAGE: The Ice Shelf, approximately 40m high, from where provisions are offloaded

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C r a ig Ha r r is on wasteland for 14 months, we took enough provisions for three years in case we were stranded and a plane or ship couldn’t fetch us. There is only a window of six weeks a year when a ship can sail or a plane can land,” he explains. The conditions were so hazardous that the team had to be retrained, particularly on how to operate a ski mobile. The first casualty was South African National Space Agency scientist Cornelia Oberholzer, who fell and snapped her leg while repairing a radar antenna. A plane had to be chartered to transport her back home. Harrison says the daily routine included doing base checks, seeing that the machines were working, and monitoring the generators. “We had one generator failure and unfortunately found ourselves without spares to repair it. This meant we had to cut down on the heating to conserve the remaining two generators. We had to walk 800 to 1 000 metres to the smelter and shovel ice and snow into it to make water. In a storm, the ice covers the smelter and you have to physically break the ice over it. My best experience was going to the smelter during a blizzard,” he admits. “At one time, wailing winds and a snow storm of 200km lasted seven hours, with

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the temperature at minus 47°C—leaving the structure of the whole base shaking. Storms are unpredictable; they can last for days or for weeks. Then there’s the darkness of winter, which lasts for four months with no light at all. But, come

“

of an emergency. The only way to travel is via GPS because, if you veer off track, you stand a good chance of driving into crevasse fields—which could prove fatal. “At times, the windscreen was covered with 50mm of ice. The snow, in

Although we were scheduled to live in this

white wasteland for 14 months, we took enough provisions for three years in case we were stranded and a plane or ship couldn’t fetch us.

”

summer, it’s light for 24 hours, and at 3 a.m. we were all outside. We became so acclimatised to the cold that we wore short sleeves in the snow!” It took the team 48 hours to travel 308km. They would drive in two-hour shifts, but had to rest in between for at least 20 minutes and change drivers. They always had a caboose in the event

combination with the storm, renders a full ‘whiteout’: The sky and the snow become one and the same,” adds Harrison. There were several crises when everyone had to work 24 to 48 hours non-stop, such as the time the crew had to wrap heating tape round the sewage pipe to prevent it from bursting in the freezing temperatures. On another

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C r a ig Ha r r is on TOP: Dropping off geologists in remote areas by helicopter BELOW, LEFT: Back in civilisation BELOW, RIGHT: Emperor penguins at Atka Bukta

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occasion, Harrison and a team member were out in fearsome weather conditions, with the winds raging at 99km per hour. “We literally crawled back to base, staying as low as possible to prevent us from being blown off the mountain’s edge. It was heart- and adrenaline-pumping stuff,” he says. Survival and maintenance of the base were the only priorities as birthdays, Christmas and New Year came and went, with no time for celebrations until February 2014, when the ship returned the team to civilisation.

For Harrison, the time went by too quickly. But he had barely unpacked upon arriving home before donning his diving gear; when not underwater, he’s training to climb Kilimanjaro. “Ultimately, I’ve set my sights on conquering Mount Everest,” he says with the confidence of a true adventurer. He was about to apply for another assignment in Antarctica when by chance he connected on Facebook with a woman he was friendly with way back at school. “Antarctica rekindled my soul, and I have also found my soulmate,” he confides.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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EDGE

G r a h a m Howe

Postcards from the

GRAHAM HOWE DRIVES, WALKS, CLIMBS AND ISLAND-HOPS ALONG THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY—A SPECTACULAR NEW COASTAL ROUTE THAT TAKES THE INTREPID INTO THE CELTIC HEART OF IRELAND

The Wild Atlantic Way is one of the longest road trips in one country, winding through 2 500 kilometres of rugged coastal scenery scattered across seven counties. It takes you to ancient forts, monasteries, remote islands and villages off the map—just follow the 4 000 road signs!

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

G r a h a m Howe

drenaline junkies who don’t suffer from vertigo will enjoy the exhilarating day hike on the coastal path that runs along the very edge of the spectacular Cliffs of Moher. Stepping gingerly onto a grassy granite bluff that falls 200 metres into the sea far below, I spotted a brave band of surfers, boards under arm, leaping down a near-vertical descent to reach the wild waves crashing into a lonely rocky bay. “Surfers come from all over the world to ride the big wave,” said Pat Sweeney, our local guide. On a really stormy day, the waves top 20m. The lads come from California and Hawaii to ride Aileen’s wave, named after the Aill Na Searrach, the “cliff of foals”. “If you come ashore on the wrong beach, there’s only one way out—by rescue helicopter!” These riders on the storm are like foals surging in the surf. The funny thing is, this walk on the wild side runs on the outside—not the inside—of the ragged old safety fence along the top of the cliffs. The springy tufts of turf and occasional gaps and sinkholes in the path are challenges, and a good enough reason to take a guide who knows the terrain like an old billy goat, and leads from the front. On the narrow defile down to his farm in Doolin, Pat remarked: “They said I was crazy when I started the walk along the Cliffs of Moher, and they were right. Growing up with the cliffs as my backyard was every child’s dream—and a mother’s nightmare! I’m a stubborn, fifth-generation

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Irish farmer. It took me four years to cut the path, and negotiate the right of way with the 39 other farmers whose land we cross.” In season, Pat leads a walk up the cliffs every morning, and down again to milk the cows by teatime. The trail starts at O’Brien’s Tower, a Victorian landmark built in 1835 by the ruling chieftains of County Clare, a great vantage point. (They say the O’Briens built everything in County Clare except the cliffs.) And in true Irish style, it ends at Gus O’Connor’s Pub in Doolin—or, if you’re fortunate enough to stay there, at Doonagore Farmhouse, a traditional Irish B&B run by Pat and his wife. The Cliffs of Moher (meaning “ruined fort”) stretch eight kilometres all the way to Hag’s Head. Talk about postcards from the edge. Along the precipitous path, we spotted the most amazing seabirds nesting on impossible ledges on the sheer cliff face. Pat pointed out a colony of puffins (“the clowns of the sea”) with their painted Mikado-style eyeliner, bright-orange beaks and flippers. We saw colonies of razorbills, gannets and guillemots nesting on 10-storey sea stacks, kittiwakes and choughs (a rare species of Celtic crow) as well as lovely wildflowers like sea pinks, primroses and cat’s ears. And we met Neddy and Little Jack, Pat’s donkeys who help him mow the lawn on the edge of the cliffs. “Farmers in Ireland believe donkeys bring you good luck,” he added superstitiously. I was starting to learn how the Wild Atlantic Way earned its name. Hang on for the ride of your life if you follow all the new signposts painted with three blue

waves, the icon of the touring route, all along the west and south coast of Ireland. Throw away your GPS. Billed as one of the longest road trips in one country, winding through 2 500km of rugged coastal scenery scattered across seven counties, it takes you off the beaten tourist path on a journey into the ancient landscapes of Celtic history and legend. The northern gateway to the Wild Atlantic Way is remote Malin Head, the northernmost point in Ireland in County Donegal; the southern gateway is the fishing village and culinary capital of Kinsale in County Cork. Along the way, signs at 190 discovery points and 15 key destinations like the Cliffs of Moher take you to ancient forts, monasteries, remote

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The Cliffs of Moher— standing on the westernmost edge of Europe ABOVE, LEFT: Clifftop Ramble—a walk on the wild side down to Doolin ABOVE, MIDDLE: Ancient Celtic crosses at Scattery OPPOSITE, TOP RIGHT: St Mary’s Cathedral in Limerick OPPOSITE, BOTTOM LEFT: On a clear day, you can see New York—going off the beaten track on Loop Head Peninsula OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT: (Above) Look out for the three blue waves—icon of the Wild Atlantic Way; (Below) Gus O’Connor’s Pub in Doolin

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islands and villages off the map. Some 4 000 road signs have been put up, so you can’t get lost—even in the maze of country lanes in Ireland! This is the very western edge of Europe. On Loop Head, an incredibly scenic peninsula on the Wild Atlantic Way in County Clare, a sign at Keating’s Bar & Restaurant claims it is “the nearest bar to New York”! When I climbed to the top of an old lighthouse nearby to see if I could spot the Big Apple on a clear, sunny day, the amused keeper quipped: “Nope, you can’t see it today. You’ll have to come back another day!” You don’t have to drive the whole of the Wild Atlantic Way in one go. It’s a point of departure, a way to help tourists

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discover unusual destinations. You can do parts of it on long-distance hiking, cycling, ferry and driving routes. It would take at least a month to explore all the scenic byways, peninsulas and out-of-the way destinations. Over the years, I’ve driven most of it from windswept Slieve League in County Donegal, through towns like Sligo, Galway and Limerick down to the wild peninsulas of Connemara, Dingle and Loop Head, and around the coastal rings of Kerry and Beara. These unspoilt landscapes offer the finest untamed scenery left in Europe. We stayed in the village of Doolin, the gateway to many tourist attractions in County Clare, which lies at the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s as good a place as any

to start your journey. This scenic stone village is set in the heart of the Burren: one of 64 geoparks in Europe and known for its unique karst limestone geology of caves, glacial pavements and dramatic cliffs—a Unesco World Heritage Site and protected landscape of outstanding natural beauty which promotes sustainable ecotourism. It’s a great base from which to do day trips and stay over at hostels and farmstays, B&Bs and country hotels. You can even go caving on the Wild Atlantic Way. The Burren literally means “rocky place”, as the landscape is intersected by thousands of kilometres of ancient dry-stone walls. I went to see Pol an Ionain (also known as The Great Stalactite) at Doolin Cave, the longest free-hanging

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G r a h a m Howe

LEFT: Dun Aengus on the Aran Islands— a 3 000-year-old fort with a view

stalactite in the northern hemisphere. It’s part of an 80km honeycomb of limestone caves and ‘drowned’ (sunken) rivers mapped by English potholers. Farmers John and Helen Browne opened up the cave on their land by excavating a staircase and tunnel. The cave is one of Doolin’s many tourist attractions. Doolin is also the only village rated in the top 10 attractions of Ireland by TripAdvisor, and is a legendary drawcard for live Irish folk music. At night in pubs like Fitzpatrick’s Bar at the Hotel Doolin, we watched travelling musicians playing impromptu ‘sessions’ on harp, fiddle, accordion, uilleann bagpipes (played with an elbow bellows), tin whistles, flutes and drums. People come from all over the world to listen to music passed down over the generations. They say you’ll find live music 365 days a year in Doolin— played by granddad, father and son down at the pub! The Wild Atlantic Way aims to keep alive Irish cultural traditions such as the Music Makers of West Clare in Miltown Malbay. They host the annual Willie Clancy Summer School that attracts students from around the world who come to study under the great masters of Irish music—from the chieftains to the river dancers. A trio of schoolchildren who have studied here since the age of 8 played the banjo, fiddle and accordion, and talked to us about the finer points of an Irish air, fling, reel, jig, polka, Clare set and step (river) dance. I can do a good version of a traditional battering step—mind your toes—but probably need to work on my calves for the rest! You may even find love on the Wild Atlantic Way. Love is all around you in the nearby village of Lisdoonvarna. Painted in

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bright colours, this quaint little place is home to a famous matchmaker’s bar among all the pubs on high street—and the Matchmaking Festival that draws thousands of romantics to this old Victorian spa town. Willie Daley, the best-known of the matchmakers, boasts on a huge poster: “Some marriages are made in heaven, but the best ones are made in Lisdoonvarna!” He keeps a long list of hopeful singles on his books in an old-fashioned ledger, and claims a better track record than Tinder in making marriages that last. The Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna is world-renowned for its organic smoked salmon, on the menus of some of Europe’s top chefs. A gift of their smoked salmon was presented to US President Barack Obama in a hamper of Irish produce on St Patrick’s Day this year, and served to the Queen at a banquet at Dublin Castle on a state visit. At Barrtrá Seafood Restaurant in Lahinch, we feasted on the Salmon of Knowledge, a fish of great wisdom in the old Irish legend of the Shannon River. Owner Theresa O’Brien assured us, “We smoke our own salmon using oak chips we get from the local coffin maker!” The Wild Atlantic Way diverts from the mainland out to sea to islands such as Aran, Great Blasket and Scattery. Doolin and Galway are gateways to the Aran Islands, one of the highlights of the entire route. We went island-hopping on Doolin ferries that operate daily trips to the three Aran Islands on an hour-long ride on the Happy Hooker (named after a wooden Galway sailboat, in case you were wondering how it got its name!). You can do a tour by cycle, horse and carriage, or minibus with one of the old islanders who have eked a living out of the land and sea

for generations here. The Aran Islands have been inhabited since the Stone Age, and are regarded as the spiritual heartland of Celtic culture and a shrine to the Gaelic language. Aran was once renowned as one of the holiest places on Earth after Jerusalem and Rome. The islands are littered with the ruins of ancient temples, churches and forts as well as the burial places of many Irish saints. The islanders built a labyrinth of 11 000km of stone walls on these rocky islands to protect their pastures from the wild winds of the Atlantic, and still harvest kelp to fertilise their stony potato patches and fields. We enjoyed a wonderful plate of steamed crab claws in cream—caught in the rich Atlantic Ocean by local fishermen—along with lobster, mussels and fish at Tí Joe Watty’s, a pub on Inishmore, the largest island. By tradition, the women of Aran knit a distinct pattern into their Aran jerseys so they can identify drowned sailors. I bought a simple St Brigid’s reed cross from Vincent, a local weaver. When I asked if he was an islander, he replied: “I’m a blow-in [a stranger]. I’ve only been here 40 years. Around here, you’re only considered a local when you’re buried and can’t move on!” The great Iron-Age Dun Aengus, a 3 000-year-old stone fortress built on the very cliff face, is one of the most dramatic sights I’ve seen anywhere in the world. On a clear day, they say you can also see all the way across the Atlantic to New York here. Incredibly, there’s no barrier on the precipice of the 150m high edge of the sheer cliff. Staring into the abyss, our guide Bartley Beatty explained: “The minute we put up a fence, some idiot is bound to climb over it! You make your own luck in life. I’m tired of telling people to stay off the walls and cliff edge.” That’s what I like about the Wild Atlantic Way: They’ve kept the wildness by not fencing it all in. Graham Howe visited the Wild Atlantic Way as a guest of Tourism Ireland. For more information, call Tourism Ireland in Johannesburg on 011 463 1132 or visit www.ireland.com, www.burren.ie and www.wildatlanticway.com.

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Swaziland’s

hidden gems

Whether it is your first time in the Kingdom of Swaziland or not, the grand landscapes can always take your breath away. Although Swaziland is the smallest country in the Southern hemisphere, the Kingdom more than makes up for its lack of size, with a hugely diverse range of attractions and activities. Regardless of age or interest, Swaziland has an adventure that awaits you.

Swaziland Tourism Authority – South Africa Tel: (011) 702 9602 • Email: info@swazilandturism.co.za • Website: www.thekingdomofswaziland.com Facebook/MySwazilandSA • Twitter/ILoveSwaziland

Expedition Af r ic a 36

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44 by

Lisa de Speville explains why participants in the Expedition Africa event are drawn to this gruelling adventure race

Four is a magic number in the sport of adventure racing. It is the number of people in a team, the number of the types of events, and the number of core sporting disciplines that feature in every event. It is also the number of key elements that differentiate adventure racing from other sports: team, navigation, unpredictability and achievement. Photographs Bruce Viaene

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Expedition Af r ic a

he sport of adventure racing began over 30 years ago with expedition events, those that covered a few hundred kilometres over three or more days of non-stop racing. Here the critical elements of the sport—navigation, sleep strategy, team dynamics, endurance, nutrition and body management—were magnified and amplified. Neglect of any one of these over the many 24-hour days of the event would undoubtedly result in withdrawal and a DNF (“did not finish”) denotation for the team. With time, shorter events emerged. These provided participants with stepping-stone races that were designed to entice them from one-day into weekend- and then into expedition-style races that are the heart of this sport. Expedition Africa is South Africa’s annual expedition race and one that makes up the Adventure Racing World Series (ARWS), a calendar of such events around the world. Participating teams score points toward a global ranking, and each year a hosting event takes its turn as the Adventure

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Racing World Championship. Being of an expedition-style, the four-person teams do not have their own support crew to transport equipment, prepare food and provide emotional and moral support. Instead, the race organisation provides teams with crates into which they pack their clothing, equipment and long-life foods. The organisation then transports these crates as well as mountain bikes and kayaks to designated transition areas. Racing sans support crew, which was very popular a few years ago, is akin to sending a child to boarding school. Racers draw support from their teammates to get them through tough stages. This year’s Expedition Africa was hosted in the Kingdom of Swaziland, where the event enjoyed unprecedented land access with no restrictions (which is often the case when events pass through parks and private land). Now in its fifth year, the race has visited the Western Cape, Eastern Cape, Drakensberg and the Wild Coast. Next year’s location is, as yet, undisclosed. The 2015 Expedition Africa treated teams to all the ‘usual’: a mix of stages that included trekking, mountain biking and paddling. For extra variety and

unforgettable experiences, race director Stephan Muller incorporated white-water rafting, caving, kloofing (also known as canyoning) and a scramble up the massive granite dome of Sibebe Rock. Physical disciplines aside, wilderness navigation is the key differentiator that separates adventure racing from off-road triathlons and obstacle races. Like a treasure hunt on steroids, teams armed with only a map and compass (no GPS devices are allowed) race day and night, locating the checkpoints that define the race route. Teams can do whatever they want between checkpoints, with the only

PREVIOUS SPREAD: After wandering about, searching (in the wrong place) for checkpoint 33, Team Untamed eventually took 23 hours to complete this 38km section THIS PAGE: Participants had to leap a few metres in the air to plunge into a deep pool below—with all their kit! OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Expedition-style adventure racing takes teams through areas seldom accessed by visitors; The 2015 Expedition Africa began with a lung-busting trek up Swaziland’s Sibebe Rock, a massive granite dome; Kinetic, the organiser of Expedition Africa, provided teams with two-person, sit-on-top kayaks

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AJ C a litz

Up for the challenge? Although there are adventure races throughout the year, an expedition race is the true nature of the sport.

Event: Expedition Africa (6th annual event) Date: May or June 2016 (TBC) Winning time: about 72 hours (with a seven-day cut-off for back teams) Location: Undisclosed Team format: four-person, mixed gender Distance: 500km, non-stop Sporting disciplines: trekking, mountain biking, paddling, navigation (and others as dictated by season and race location)

requirement being that they reach the finish of the race having punched in at all checkpoints. But it’s not quite that simple. When a navigator has slept for less than eight hours over a four-day period, obvious route choices become an indecipherable maze. On the final trekking leg, Team Untamed from Cape Town had supporters glued to their computers as the team’s live track showed them ‘drawing’ zigzags across the landscape too far south of the checkpoint for which they were searching. The team thought the final 38-kilometre trek would be “a chip and a putt” to the finish. “But,”

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they said afterward, “the cold night, a broken compass and ‘sleep monsters’ turned it into a long and hard 23-hour slog to the finish.” Teams racing at the front have been in the game for years. They know how to pace and navigate, and maintain their motivation through the darkest of hours during the race. Team Merrell Adventure Addicts have been racing for over a decade. They started off at a slower pace, letting the likes of Peak Performance (Sweden) and Cyanosis (South Africa) get ahead. Nursing an ill teammate, they stepped

up their pace only two days into the race. Their navigation looked flawless to online observers and, once they took the lead, they stayed in front to win Expedition Africa—again. Returning to competitive racing after a year off, Merrell’s team captain Graham Bird describes their race: “We settled into our own race; our own pace. We focused on what we had to do and the teams around us. We looked after ourselves and then we pushed hard for the final 25 hours. We raced well.” Merrell’s strength is in their focus on “team”. “When you start,” Bird says, “the

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Expedition Af r ic a TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: Team Castle Lite have participated in all Expedition Africa events; Team Untamed taking a breather after wandering around the entire night, looking for a checkpoint BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: A section of caving through the Gobholo Caves; cycling through one of Swaziland’s game reserves

whole world revolves around your team and yourself as you work to get from point to point as fast as possible, looking after mind and body to ensure you get to the finish. You shut off from everything else and you begin to understand that nothing you face is impossible. Everything is achievable, as long as you believe you can.” It’s not easy to explain why participants are drawn to these races that start with the gun and then continue night and day— with little respite—until the team crosses the finish line some four to eight days later. This was the first expedition race done by accomplished paddler Robyn Kime and it was a baptism of fire, indeed, to be in the winning team. Racing with Bird and equally experienced teammate Donovan Sims, Kime could not have chosen better companions. She found her answer to ‘why’. “I’m proud to now call myself an adventure racer—a member of this family of hard-core, down-to-earth, slightly masochistic, outdoor-loving, adventurous spirits,” she said after the race. “In their parallel lives, they are businessmen, accountants, mountain guides, pilots, IT geeks, soldiers, students, surveyors, ski instructors, secret agents, engineers, supermodels, teachers, doctors, athletes, nurses, mothers—or they come from other completely different walks of life. Perhaps the only thing the members of this eclectic family share is an excessive

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love of life and a challenge.” Kerryn Krige, an adventure racer who volunteered to help at the race, wrote a thought-provoking post as she watched teams finally reaching the finish line: “I stopped racing in 2010, when I asked myself the question: ‘Why am I doing this?’ Since then, I’ve hovered on the sidelines of AR [adventure racing], unable to answer the question, but neither able to remove myself completely from the sport.” She wrote of the focus of navigation and moving forward, dealing with unpredictable situations and struggling mentally and physically; from start to finish, participants have to problem-solve “wildly out of their comfort zone”. “And in this complexity is the secret ingredient of achievement which other sports don’t have,” she explained. “It’s not about being great at the technical skills of mountain biking, trail running, canyoning, rafting and any other discipline a race director throws at you. The complexity is that the achievement of crossing the finish line is both an individual and collective one.” While the total distance of expedition adventure races seems vast, it is split into legs—and teams have up to seven or eight days to travel through the race course. And this is not the domain of super athletes with exceptional physical endurance: Most participants are ordinary, sporty

people with a love of adventure. This type of racing is for people who are up for a challenge and open to the unexpected. What participants can expect, however, is an exceptional experience and, on crossing that finish line, a sense of achievement that is unmatched—and addictive. More event information can be found on www.kineticgear.co.za. Follow the action on Facebook (Kineticgear) and Twitter (@kineticgear and #ExpAfrica).

Useful links

www.ar.co.za – South Africa’s adventure racing website, created and edited by Lisa de Speville. www.kineticgear.co.za – for Expedition Africa and also sprint, 12/24hr and multi-day races organised by the dynamic duo of Heidi and Stephan Muller. arworldseries.com – information and listing of the expedition events around the world which make up the Adventure Racing World Series. www.sleepmonsters.com – news and coverage of adventure races around the world. youtu.be/ISbHUan2Pbk – a five-minute video by Team Untamed which sums up the event beautifully.

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R h in o Tea r s

On the

FRONT LINE ROBBIE STAMMERS GOES DEEP INTO THE KRUGER PARK FOR A FEW NIGHTS WITH THE SANPARKS RANGERS TO FIND OUT FIRST-HAND HOW THE BATTLE IN THE RHINO WAR IS REALLY GOING Photographs Ravi Gajjar

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R h in o wa r As young boys, the only thing these men dreamt about was being able to call the wide expanse of bush their office on a daily basis; to learn from and share their knowledge and passion with visitors like you and me. Little did they know when they first became Kruger Park rangers that they would end up being trained in military fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and spend days and nights on end, fighting a vicious enemy on behalf of the precious rhino.

OPPOSITE: Dr Markus Hofmeyr and his highly skilled veterinary staff calm the wounded rhino after it was darted THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: John Hooper from Rhino Tears wine gets ready to board the helicopter; Cleaning out the rhino bullet wound with disinfectant; The rangers in a mad dash to ensure the rhino is heading in the right direction, away from the border; The rhino is now ready to get back into his habitat, and the helicopter hovers to make sure it all goes well

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ut this they do indeed, and they are extremely passionate and dedicated to the cause, even though it must sometimes feel like they are farting against thunder, as for every poacher captured, there are a dozen more just itching to take his place. I was one of the privileged few to be invited to join South African National Parks rangers for two nights and three days camping in the middle of the Kruger. We were met by John Turner, chairperson of SANParks Honorary Rangers, and set off for Mokhololo Bush Camp, our erected campsite in the middle of the bush with no fences. This was something very few

people get to experience in the Kruger Park: meals under the stars and completely surrounded by the calls and sounds of the open bush. Gram for gram, rhino horn has become the most expensive commodity on the planetâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;outstripping gold, diamonds and platinum. The epicentre of the battle is Kruger, with its relatively high number of rhinos on a continent where most populations have been decimated. The park has a 400-kilometre border with Mozambique, which is where 80% of the rhino poachers enter. Camping in the middle of the Kruger was certainly a treat that none of us would probably get to experience again, but the

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R h in o wa r

I reflected on the enormity of what we had just witnessed: Yes, the rhino had been shot, but thankfully not mortally. He would survive another day—this time the poachers had not succeeded. gravity of the poaching situation was certainly not lost on us as we eased into our first afternoon and night with a magical game drive and then a dinner around the campfire. Thereafter we dodged scavenging hyenas to our tents and fell asleep to the sound of their cackling and the distant roar of lions. We had a number of excursions planned for first light the next day, but this all changed when word came over the radio that rangers had encountered a rhino that had been shot. Battle stations were called and we all jumped into the vehicles and put foot to where the last sighting had been made. The helicopter circled above us and the beady-eyed pilot spotted the wounded animal not far from the Mozambican border. Our vehicles screeched off in the advised direction, with adrenaline pumping through me as we got closer and closer to the poor rhino. Finally, we set eyes on the 800kg male running at a speed one would never believe possible. We could make out the bleeding wound on his back, which the

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rangers said was at least something positive, as it looked like the bullet had gone clean through him and missed his spine, otherwise there would have been no way he could move like that. The helicopter circled the rhino and Dr Markus Hofmeyr, SANParks’ head of Veterinary Wildlife Services, successfully darted him from the air and stayed close by in anticipation of the dart’s effect. The tranquiliser works surprisingly fast—and watching a massive rhino stumble, fall and desperately get back up then fall again makes your breath catch in your throat. At last, all two tonnes of white rhino went down with a thud, and Dr Hofmeyr and his team ran in and covered his eyes with a cloth to keep him calm. We were then invited over to watch proceedings, and I was in absolute awe of this magnificent creature a mere few centimetres from my touch. His skin was warm and the wound on his back was seeping blood and puss, where one could make out both the entry and exit wound. The wildlife veterinary team went to

work quickly: An oxygen tube was inserted into the subdued rhino’s nostril; blood, hair and skin samples were taken for DNA, and a pipe with antiseptic solution was put directly through the wound so that it could be washed out and disinfected. The members are no ordinary veterinarians, and daily procedures such as this are quickly becoming the norm for a team tasked with the care of Kruger’s most threatened species. While they finished up their work on the rhino, we were led off to the helicopter to get an extremely rare treat of flying within the borders of the Kruger—this area is, for obvious reasons, a definite no-fly zone for any unauthorised aircraft bar SANParks officials. On the ground, the rhino was being given another injection, this one to reverse the effects of the tranquiliser. We swooped up into the air and looked down to try and find the rhino, but he was no longer on the same spot. The pilot pointed him out, already quite far out in front of us, once again running like the wind. I still could not

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believe the speed the colossal creature could gain, even just a few minutes after having been out for the count. The pilot then indicated the park’s border with Mozambique, which seemed far too close for comfort after what had happened to the rhino. I reflected on the enormity of what we had just witnessed as a herd of mighty elephants lumbered below us. This had been a good day. Yes, the rhino had been shot, but thankfully not mortally. He would survive another day—this time the poachers had not succeeded. But this would no doubt be a very short victory in a very long war. I was indeed grateful that we had not come across a rhino that had been decimated and hacked to bits for his prize horn, for that truly would have left me

OPPOSITE: The Intrepid Explorer editor Robbie Stammers and Eva Schuman from GQ get up close with the tranquilised rhino THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Our basic but wonderful base camp in the bush, Mokhololo; A section ranger talks us through all the gear they need on their dangerous missions out in the bush; Gladys, the exceptional sniffer dog, seeks out bullet casings with ease; The dedicated SANParks rangers and honorary rangers who hosted us

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severely traumatised. I have seen enough footage of brave, burly rangers breaking down in uncontrollable floods of tears when they come across the savaged ‘living remains’ of those rhino that had not been as lucky as this one today. The helicopter returned us to terra firma along with our sobering thoughts, and we headed back to camp for more insights into the other approaches being taken on the front line of this rhino war. That afternoon, the rangers showed us exactly what each side of this war comes up against: which methods the poachers use—which was fascinating—and the countermeasures with which the rangers are being equipped to fight back. The rangers, who grew up in the area, had made up at least a dozen traps of all sorts and sizes in the surrounding bush, and proceeded to show us exactly how each one causes deadly accurate consequences when the prey stands on the trigger. They also demonstrated how they can make fire by just rubbing two sticks together (a feat the one ranger managed to demonstrate, producing fire within less than a minute). In addition, we were shown all the equipment and provisions the rangers carry with them when they are tracking poachers. Usually they are out in the bush for days on end and cannot make a sound or light any fires at night. It truly is a tough, sacrificial job

and one cannot help but admire them even more. Another highlight was meeting section ranger Richard Sowry and his dogs from the newly formed dog unit in the Kruger. Dogs are one of the newer arrows in SANParks’ quiver of anti-poaching measures. The first working dog was introduced into the park in 2012. Today there are a variety of dogs trained for different purposes, and the programme is to be expanded. Not all poachers cross the border at night, say SANParks officials. Some drive openly through the entrance gates, posing as a family on a visit. This happened recently when poachers entered with a high-calibre rifle, one section taped underneath the vehicle, the other in the engine, and the ammunition in the child’s socks. Incidents like these are part of the reason there are now sniffer dogs at all Kruger entrance gates—trained to detect wildlife, guns and ammunition. Gladys, a lovely spaniel, is trained to sniff out guns and bullets. Her handler, a female SANParks staffer (whose identity Sowry asked not to be revealed for her own safety), put Gladys through her paces. Ammunition had been hidden in one of several plastic tubes spread out on the ground. On command, the dog shot off. And when she found the right tube, she sat down in front of it, looking at her handler.

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The park also has Belgian Malinois dogs and foxhounds—trained to track spoor three hours or fresher—to patrol, sniff out contraband, and to attack and bring down a person. Unite Against Poaching, a nongovernmental organisation that works with the SANParks Honorary Rangers and SANParks permanent staff, to date has donated R8 million toward antipoaching measures, including funding the first specialist tracker hound unit in Kruger. There are three foxhounds and handlers already trained, and five undergoing training. The cost of one trained dog is R60 000. The dogs have a GPS device fitted to their collar, and the helicopter follows them at a distance. One dog can track for eight hours at a stretch, and is then replaced with another. The longest distance one dog has tracked is 23km. When one of the hounds finds the poacher, it does not attack. “It just goes into the bush and waits,” says Johan de Beer, of the SANParks Canine Unit. So far in this year alone, the dogs have led to the arrest of 16 poachers and confiscation of seven weapons. Watching the dogs and their ranger handlers together gave me hope that with more men and mutts such as these, a bigger dent can be made in the fight against poachers. We enjoyed another wonderful evening with all the SANPark rangers, and I was deeply touched at how much this war means to them and how determined they are to make a difference. They truly love the rhino and everything that the Kruger and conservation means to our future generations who hope to be able to see the wild animal in his own natural habitat—not in a zoo or, worse, stuffed and displayed in a museum. The wine and whisky flowed freely deep into the night, and the rangers regaled us with story after story around the fire. The last morning was spent with Major General Johan Jooste, an ex-army general and now the head of anti-poaching activity for SANParks. This was indeed a very clever appointment, as the retired major general clearly has vast experience in military intelligence, border- and area protection as well as contemporary knowledge of modern technology use, which now includes the rangers looking into potentially bringing in drones along the Mozambican borders. “We were rangers, now we’re at war,”

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said Major General Jooste candidly, “but we have made the decision that we are here for the living rhino, not the dead.” In fact, it was Major General Jooste who met up with Warren Buffet’s son, Howard, for dinner a few months ago to explain what the rhino war is all about. The American philanthropist immediately proceeded to donate $24 million (R255 million) to SANParks to fund a high-tech campaign against rhino

poaching, which he compared to the United States’ war on drugs on its southern border. With people like Major General Jooste, the incredibly dedicated rangers, the dog unit handlers, the vets and everyone else rallying behind this incredible fight and cause to save our rhino, we may just be able to turn this around in the long run. I can only hope so. The other option is too sad to contemplate.

Raise a glass to the anti-poaching effort This unforgettable experience was thanks to Rhino Tears wine. The idea came about when Mount Vernon Wine Estate managing director, John Hooper, met with John Turner, chairperson of the SANParks Honorary Rangers Conservation Services Unit, and Andre Nel, owner of The Hat and Creek restaurants in Hoedspruit and Phalaborwa. After spending a couple of days with the field rangers in the Kruger National Park, they developed the idea for a wine that could raise money for anti-poaching efforts. Hooper realised he needed to create a good quality product that wine lovers around the world would appreciate. An important point to consider, though, was selling a wine that people would buy often and could enjoy immediately, as this would mean more for anti-poaching than a wine that would have to be stored in a cellar for years before drinking. The result is a good red blend made from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage grapes, which allows for easy drinking and appeals to all levels of palate. The white is a delightful fruit-driven Chenin Blanc, suitable for enjoying on all occasions. Rhino Tears wine sells at around R55 per bottle, and R15 from each bottle goes directly to Unite Against Poaching. Wine lovers can be confident that 100% of the funds raised through sales of Rhino Tears are used for anti-poaching projects in SANParks. “Every bottle purchased really makes a difference. The anti-poaching war is expensive, and the men and women involved need all they can get against a ruthless enemy,” says Hooper. The Rhino Tears wine range is available for purchase in major retailers around the country, including Pick n Pay, Makro, Tops and Spar, Fruit & Veg City and major independent retailers. It can also be ordered online at www.mountvernon.co.za or www.sanparksvolunteers.org.

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Enter the Biggest Underwater Photography Competition in the World.

T O O O U H T S D L R WIN O 2 01 5 W UNDERWATER

PHOTO G

Ugu South Coast Tourism, its members and in association with Tourism KZN are proud to sponsor the Sharks Category. Entries close 1st November 2015. T&Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apply.

A BUCKET LIST TRIP FOR TWO TO THE Worth over R70 000

N D P RI X Only 90 minutes from Gauteng. Direct flights from OR Tambo Margate.

For more information and how to enter please visit the website:

Matthew Holt dives Belize’s Great Blue Hole, a large submarine vertical cave described as “the most amazing place on Earth”

deep

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©iStock

INTO THE

M a tth ew Holt Finning to the edge of the hole, I peer over the sandy lip and feel a shiver of vertigo. It’s like looking over a precipice. Breath quickening, I fin further out, until I’m suspended above the abyss. Then, squeezing air from my BCD, I start falling...… Photographs: Matthew Holt, Mandy Ramsden and Fiona McIntosh

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

M a tth ew Holt

ying 10 kilometres off the Belize mainland, Ambergris Caye inspired Madonna’s song “La Isla Bonita”, and in 2014 was voted by TripAdvisor as the best island in the world. On first impressions, it was hard to see how. Once the haunt of pirates and whalers, it was now overrun by American retirees, living in mock-Venetian condos and careering around the dirt roads in golf buggies. The middle of the island was an impassable mangrove swamp, the beaches were choked with dead seagrass, and there was a pervasive odour of blocked drains. Fortunately, the reason for my visit wasn’t on the island, but off it. Just after dawn, I boarded the reassuringly large dive boat Papa Tomas for the 100km journey out to Lighthouse Reef. The day was undecided, with a light breeze flicking up white horses and some purple clouds billowing on the smudgy horizon. There were 15 of us diving, and the racks on the lower deck were fully

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stocked with air cylinders and buoyancy compensator devices (BCDs). Initially, the skipper kept inside the reef, but after passing Caye Caulker we headed out to open sea. There was a moderate chop—and, no doubt, salty sea dogs would have played quoits out on deck—but for an experienced landlubber like me, it was like The Poseidon Adventure. Beyond Turneffe Atoll, we ran diagonally to the swell, pitching and yawing with abandon. By now, only the crew were still chatting. The rest of us sat with jaws clamped tight, trying to focus on the see-sawing horizon. Intermittently, a green-faced diver slithered down the deck to hang over the side. At long last, the rolling subsided and we entered the calm waters within Lighthouse Reef. Five tiny specks of land strung together by coral, the atoll is home to a rusting lighthouse plus some rustic abodes for conservation rangers and ecotourists. Smack in the middle, surrounded by shallow turquoise water, is a deep indigo circle, 300m in diameter, like a giant inkwell.

The Great Blue Hole was made famous by the pioneering French scuba diver Jacques-Yves Cousteau, who started diving with home-made gear in the 1940s and co-invented the aqualung. After serving in the French Navy, he then forged a career filming his underwater

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The most amazing place on Earth THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: San Pedro, Ambergris Caye; Backward roll onto the Belizean Barrier Reef; Giant turtle posing for divers OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Fish soup; Diving at Lighthouse Reef; The Lighthouse Reef Aquarium; On the pier at San Pedro, Ambergris Caye

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Giant turtles paddled alongside us, stingrays floated gracefully by, and a sleek black-tipped reef shark circled in diminishing rings before slicing past, brushing my fins. exploits for television, travelling the globe with a close-knit circle of companions plus his wife, Simone, who sold her family jewels to help pay for his ship, Calypso. In 1971, Cousteau sailed from the Galápagos Islands to Lighthouse Reef via the Panama Canal, intent on exploring the mysterious Blue Hole—which, according to local lore, was bottomless and inhabited by monsters. To assist with this task, he brought an array of his aquatic inventions including several mini submarines and underwater scooters. My stomach was no sooner back in its proper place, than the dive master was chivvying us to kit up. We were diving in two groups, and mine was first off. Fins and mask on, I waddled to the stern and took a large stride off the back, slapping into the limpid water. After checking my

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buoyancy and air, I slipped beneath the surface, descending to a sandy shelf to join my group. Finning to the lip of the hole, we hovered over the void. Then, I released air from my buoyancy jacket and started falling. I watched my depth gauge tick over: 25m… 30m… 35m… 40m. It was like being in free fall. As the wall raced by, the colours dissolved and I entered a twilight world. The pressure gripped my body, my mask squeezed my face, and drawing each breath became harder. At 45m, I squirted some air into my jacket to check my descent. The circle of light now looked a long way above; below was pitch black. As my eyes got accustomed to the gloom, I could make out huge hanging columns and, behind them, a deep cavern. Cautiously following the dive master,

I slipped inside. It was like entering a side chapel in a Gothic cathedral. The only noise was the hungry suck of my breath, followed by the rumble of my exhale, releasing clusters of bubbles like silver jellyfish. It was eerie, but at least there were no monsters lurking. During their two-month stay at Lighthouse Reef, Cousteau’s team thoroughly explored the Great Blue Hole, piloting mini submarines down to the bottom, which they recorded at 145m. They didn’t find any monsters, or indeed many other creatures, since the still water within the hole isn’t conducive to sea life. Nevertheless, the adventure wasn’t without its fair share of excitement, with Calypso running aground as it entered the shallow atoll; one of the divers passing out at 40m and having to be dragged,

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M a tth ew Holt

The only noise was the hungry suck of my breath, followed by the rumble of my exhale, releasing clusters of bubbles like silver jellyfish. It was eerie, but at least there were no monsters lurking. unconscious, to the surface; and a mini submarine getting wedged in a grotto, to be rescued by another one using its pincers. Cousteau’s divers also went down armed with pickaxes to retrieve a hanging column, which turned out to be a stalactite—indicating the Blue Hole was once a cave above water before the Ice Age ended and the sea level rose. Partly due to this geological insight, the Discovery Channel rated the Great Blue Hole as “the most amazing place on Earth” and—though I’m now getting suspicious of superlatives—it’s certainly a fascinating

started finning up toward the circle of bright light, our portal back into the living world. When my head pierced the gossamer sheen, I emerged into warm sunshine and syrupy fresh air. In the course of the day, we dived two more sites at Lighthouse Reef, which are not as deep or famous as the Great Blue Hole, but far more abundant in sea life. Finning through canyons and coral gardens, we saw shoals of shiny jacks and electric-blue parrot fish, moray eels fluttering like green pennants, gangs of inquisitive nurse sharks, and a couple of

Cousteau and John Denver writing a tribute song, “Calypso”. Thereafter, however, things started taking water. When viewer ratings slipped, ABC ruthlessly pulled the plug on Cousteau’s costly television series and it was an increasing struggle to fund his ambitious trips. The expeditions themselves were also becoming less fun, with the crew of Calypso worn down by tight production schedules and several fatal accidents including a seaplane crash in the Tagus River in Spain in 1979, which killed one of Cousteau’s sons. In December 1990, his

dive. Fascination notwithstanding, one can’t spend long at these depths and it was soon time to ascend. Besides, two of my group were running low on air, having to share from other tanks via emergency regulators. Weaving through stalactites, we made our way back to the wall and

morose-looking groupers. Giant turtles paddled alongside us, stingrays floated gracefully by, and a sleek black-tipped reef shark circled in diminishing rings before slicing past, brushing my fins. In between dives, we disembarked for a picnic lunch on Half Moon Caye, a palm-fringed sandbar straight out of the Bounty-chocolate adverts, populated by dishevelled red-footed boobies, vain frigate birds inflating their extravagant scarlet gullets, and giant iguanas ineptly disguised as tree bark. Having solved the mystery of Lighthouse Reef, Cousteau and his merry band sailed off to dive more blue holes in the Bahamas. Cousteau was now at his zenith, with millions of households tuning in to watch The Undersea World of Jacques

wife died of cancer. And one month later, Cousteau revealed he’d raised a secret family with his long-term mistress, whom he promptly married. The next few years were taken up with lawsuits between his various families. In 1996, Calypso was accidently rammed and sunk in Singapore Harbour, and the following year Cousteau died of a heart attack. Our journey back from Lighthouse Reef was far smoother, running with the wind and riding the swell. Everyone was tired but elated, with glazed eyes and loopy grins: It might have been the sight of dolphins playing in our wake, or wooziness from the nitrogen in our brains—or the generous rum punches served up by the crew, known locally as “panty rippers”.

ABOVE, LEFT: Iguanas on Half Moon Caye ABOVE, MIDDLE: Climbing for coconuts on Half Moon Caye ABOVE, RIGHT: Shopping in Ambergris Caye

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Mention Intrepid to receive 10% discount on your booking (T&Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apply)

(Limpopo)

White-water WONDERLAND SARAH KINGDOM RELATES HER EXPERIENCES AT AN ANNUAL KAYAKING FESTIVAL IN THE SOUTH OF INDIA

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Monsoons mark the beginning of the off season for most sports in India. The heavy deluges of rain rule out most outdoor activities. For kayakers, however, it’s just the beginning: The rivers swell, giving them an unlimited playground. The monsoons also herald the annual Malabar River Festival in the tiny town of Kodenchery.

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Sa r a h Kin gdom

ooking at a detailed map of India, you’d struggle to tell if the dot marking Kodenchery were a real town or just a fly speck or smudge of dirt. Found in the southern state of Kerala, it has two main streets and hardly a building above three stories (with the exception of the only hotel which, at four stories, and with occasional hot water, is the town’s pinnacle of luxury). Once a year, though, that all changes when a bunch of white-water kayakers from all around the world roll into town for the Malabar River Festival. They certainly liven things up. I’m not a professional kayaker—indeed, until a few years ago, I barely knew the front end of a kayak from the back. Yet, somehow I’ve become friends with this motley crew. In 2013 I was in India, at a loose end after finishing a mountaineering expedition in the far north of the country. I had some friends in the south, taking part in a kayaking festival that was the first of its kind in India, so I decided to go take a look. It was an amazing few days, with a great crowd of people who were passionate and excited about their sport. The official aim of the festival was to promote kayaking in the south of India and to highlight Kerala as an adventure tourism destination. The not-so-official aim of the majority of the participants was to have a good time— and they certainly did. Kayakers are a great bunch of people who, despite my novice status in their sport, have welcomed me with open arms. At that first festival, I found myself up on stage with a microphone in hand, providing the crowds with running commentary on the races. I must’ve done a passable job, as when the following year’s festival came around, the organisers asked if I’d come back and do it all over again. The festival is held on two rivers just outside Kodenchery: the Chalipuzha and the Iruvanjhipuzha. Both are monsoon-fed, and can swell to an impressive size. The Iruvanjupuzha is the bigger of the two, and the famous Aripara Falls are

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found here. The kayaking section starts just below the falls and is about 10 kilometres long. The first 3km below Aripara are a solid Class V section, and thereafter the river mellows down and leads into a 6-7km long technical Class III section. There’s also a hard Class V+ section upstream of the falls, though this is not included in the festival, as there has yet to be a successful descent of this stretch. The Chalipuzha—or Chali as the kayakers call it—is a sharp and steep river, and pretty much a continuous Grade IV. It’s for intermediate kayakers who are

Harder, Faster”. The prize money up for grabs was more than US$9 000 (about R111 500) and there were 70 hopefuls competing in the Giant Slalom, Down River Race, Boater Cross and Play-Boating freestyle events. The festival drew a bunch of top international competitors and high-profile athletes including three-time Adidas Sickline extreme kayak world champion, Sam Sutton from New Zealand; five-time Italian freestyle champion, Max “La Bomba” Benetton; Irish Olympic slalom paddler, Ciarán Heurteau; the UK’s Darren Clarkson-

To boost my commentator credentials, I was determined to add a few words of ‘local lingo’ to my repertoire, in an attempt to win over the 7 000-strong crowd. Obviously, it’s quite difficult to commentate on kayaking races when you have limited technical knowledge of the sport. But this task is made nigh impossible when the line of sight between you, the commentator, and the competitors on the river is blocked by a throng of umbrella-wielding spectators. There was a clearly marked—but largely ignored—spectator ‘no-go zone’ along the

eager to step up their river-running skills. A series of downriver extreme adventure races are held on two long rapids: The Game of Thorns (Class III+) and the Malabar Express (Class IV+). Being held in monsoon season, the rivers are at peak flow, creating challenges for the competitors and much entertainment for the spectators. For the latter, when not watching the action, the views of the river cutting through the lush green tropical rainforests, with the mountains looming in the background, are breathtaking. In 2013, the festival had been a huge success, with 50 international and local kayakers competing in front of crowds of more than 6 000 people. The following year, the competition was billed as “Bigger,

King, extreme kayaker and filmmaker; and adventure kayaking brothers, Joe and Dan Rea-Dickens, also from the UK. Not only am I a novice kayaker, but I’m decidedly not a linguist, either. And while I’m not by nature a shy or retiring sort of person, I’m not renowned for my ability to pick up a new language at the drop of a hat. At the previous year’s festival, I had a translator who clearly suffered from verbal diarrhoea, and no matter what I said, or how short it was, his translation to the largely local crowd always seemed endless! Last year I was relieved to see that my former ‘co-anchor’ was not around to ‘assist’ me—though that did mean I’d be largely on my own and at the mercy of the huge, predominantly non– English-speaking crowd.

bank of the river to enable me to see what was happening and to ‘talk’ about it. Last year I decided to up my game. Enlisting the help of a local friend, I added two phrases to my commentator’s arsenal: maari nikkanum (“please clear the area”) and kai adikkanum (“clap your hands”). I liberally dotted my speech with both, and initially assumed the audience’s smiles were a sign they were impressed with my ‘mastery’ of their language. I later learnt, though, that I had been occasionally mixing up the phrases, and at times telling people to “clap and clear”, or “get your hands out of the area”! The 2014 festival kicked off with a parade through town: from the local bus stop, walking the length of the town’s

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Being held in monsoon season, the rivers are at peak flow, creating challenges for the competitors and much entertainment for the spectators.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Indian kayaker Laxman Negi charges hard on the Malabar Express OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT: Extreme kayaker and filmmaker, Joe Rea-Dickens, launches off the start ramp for the giant slalom known as Game of Thorns; MIDDLE: Nepali kayaker Pramod Magar gets a nice line on the Malabar Express during the downriver time trials THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sarah Kingdom; A kayaker weaves his way between the numerous rocks on the Malabar Express; Another competitor making a splash on the Game of Thorns

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single main street, and then turning to retrace our steps. The kayakers were treated like exotic celebrities and escorted by hordes of school kids in colourful uniforms, along with various dignitaries, assorted press and a group of drummers in traditional dress beating out deafening rhythms—all in true Indian style! The race location for Day 1 was an hour’s drive from town, on roads that proved a challenge to those of us who get carsick—made worse by our wannabe rally driver. I arrived at the river feeling various shades of green, and couldn’t take a toilet break while commentating for what turned out to be a record eight hours. Fortunately, the competitions on Day 2 and 3 were much closer to town.

All in all, I spent several days watching and commentating on some spectacular kayaking on some exciting white water. The Malabar River Festival is a great event and I’ll definitely be back again this year in July—hopefully with a few more useful phrases under my belt and perhaps even a few new kayaking skills to back me up. Since first getting mixed up with this bunch, I’ve been bitten by the bug. I’ve invested in a kayak of my own and perhaps, with a bit of expert tuition, I may be ready to switch from commentator to competitor in the not-too-distant future. For more details on the 2015 festival, visit www.malabarfest.com.

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IVAN ZIMMERMANN TRAVELLED 12 000 KILOMETRES ON A MOUNTAIN BIKE, FROM NORTHERN TO SOUTHERN AFRICA, OVER SOME OF THE TOUGHEST TERRAIN AND IN EXTREME WEATHER CONDITIONS

Wild ride

It was tough and at times excruciatingly difficult and painful, but also equally mind-blowing and magnificent. This is how Ivan Zimmermann remembers his 2015 Tour d’Afrique—the world’s longest and toughest mountain biking race. After four months on his bicycle, cutting across 10 African countries, he was the third rider to cross the finishing line.

‘I

Miriam Mannak chatted with the intrepid biker.

ABOVE: On a lonely stretch of road outside the Solitaire settlement in Namibia OPPOSITE: The first week in Egypt, where temperatures dropped to -5˚C some nights

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

’m still acclimatising, and finding things very complicated. I now need to put petrol in my car, and think of all the other stuff that’s supposed to make life easier. To me, these things are complicated at the moment,” Zimmermann confesses. Barely a week has gone by since he reached the Mother City, exactly four months after he left the Egyptian capital of Cairo with 40 other tour riders. “There’s nothing more simplistic than riding your bike and pitching your tent for the night,” he continues. “I couldn’t sleep the first night in Cape Town. Everything felt too big around me. I needed that little dome. It’s fine now; things are getting better.” It is a question Zimmermann—known to South Africans as Koert Weideman in the soapie Egoli: Place of Gold—must have heard quite often: What possesses someone to travel

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I va n Z im m er m a n n

A can per kilo 12 000 kilometres on a mountain bike, from northern to southern Africa, while crisscrossing some of the toughest terrain and bracing extreme weather conditions? “As a young boy, I always dreamt of doing something crazy, huge and memorable,” he recalls. “A few years ago, I decided to stop dreaming—instead, I wanted to do it. One of the things I always wanted to do was ride from Cairo to Cape Town on a motorbike. Being an avid mountain biker, I at some stage decided to do that stretch on a bicycle, and so I signed up for the 2015 edition of the Tour d’Afrique race.” Starting in Egypt and cutting across Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Malawi, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia to end in South Africa, the Tour d’Afrique is famous for being one of the toughest, roughest

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Besides the Tour d’Afrique being a personal journey of endurance, Zimmermann used the race for a good cause. “I wanted to give back. My aim was to raise one tin of food for each of the kilometres covered by the Tour d’Afrique, to help out the Hanna Charity and Empowerment Foundation,” he says. “Food insecurity is a big thing across Africa, South Africa included. I ended up raising 5 000 of the 12 000 tins—I’m still proud of that achievement. People who want to donate and help me achieve my goal can still do so.” You can take tinned foods to one of the drop-off points indicated on ivanzimmermann.com/can-a-kilo.

mountain bike contests imaginable, in terms of both distance and terrain. From desolated desert landscapes and barren plains to dry riverbeds and never-ending mountain passes and swampy grounds— this adventure has it all, and much more. “The highest point was 3 400 metres— that was in Ethiopia. Your body takes quite a hammering from that. So yes, if you want to finish the tour, you definitely need to train,” says Zimmermann, who had five-stage mountain bike races under his

belt by the time he crossed the start line in Cairo on 9 January this year. “All in all, I’d done some 20 000km in the two years prior to the Tour d’Afrique, so physically I felt quite confident.” Mentally, however, nothing could have prepared him for this race. Particularly the leg from Egypt to the northern border of Kenya, with Sudan and Ethiopia in between, was tough. This was due to the extreme climate, shortage of good nutrition, and the sometimes not-so-warm

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BELOW: A typical camp in the Nubian Desert OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT: The journey began at the Pyramids, under the watchful eyes of the immortal Sphinx OPPOSITE PAGE, RIGHT: The bicycle is king in Malawi

reception from the locals. “I knew Egypt from the beautiful postcards, with blue skies and where it’s allegedly always hot and sunny. In reality, Egypt—and particularly the desert—was very cold when we were there. It was quite difficult. Then, upon entering Sudan, we went—bang!—from a fridge to a 48-degree oven. It felt as if someone had slammed shut the fridge door behind us from the moment we crossed the border.” Zimmermann adds that Sudan’s sweltering heat made riding the prescribed 140km to 150km per day, every day, practically impossible. “The longest stretch without a rest day, eight days, was in the northern part of Sudan. That was really rough. I once thought I wasn’t going to make it. I was lying underneath a tree, gaining strength. You get so dehydrated— even if you drink 12 litres of fluids every day.” Apart from the extreme weather conditions, the northern part of Africa—in particular north of Kenya’s capital of Nairobi—proved to be difficult from a food and nutrition point of view, too. “In the morning we would get oats, which was one of our staples. There was no bread. The first slice of bread I had was somewhere in Zambia. In the evening, we’d get some form of protein, mainly chicken, and a salad or soup. There was no fresh milk, and water was treated and carried in big drums underneath our support trucks,” he explains, noting that it was practically impossible to replenish the energy he had used up during the day. “We were burning up to 2 500 calories per day. Between Cairo and Kenya, I lost about 8kg. Particularly Sudan was difficult. The only place where we found decent supplies was in Khartoum. Most villages en route didn’t even have running water. This meant we couldn’t stop along the way to grab something that would hit the spot. You really do live on the edge. It made me wonder how people survive in these places. Coke and Pepsi, however, were widely available!” Things improved significantly on the food front from the moment the

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Extreme biking adventurers

Ron Rutland from South Africa took off on his bike two years ago on a 43 000km expedition through every country on mainland Africa and Europe. His final destination? The United Kingdom, where he hopes to arrive in September for the Rugby World Cup. By the end of July, he had made it to Berlin. Follow Ron on Twitter: @RonRutland Snežana Radojičić is one of Serbia’s first aroundthe-world solo female cyclists. In July 2011, the author of multiple books packed her bags and bike and left her hometown. Up until January 2015, she had 35 000km under her belt. Her journey stretched from Eastern Europe all the way to Russia, China, Nepal, the Himalayas and other regions. For more details, visit www.snezanaradojicic.com. Daigo Narita from Japan has been cycling around Africa for the last three-and-a-half years. He started his trip in Alaska in 2012, with the Cape of Good Hope as his final destination. He arrived in South Africa at the end of April this year. Narita made headlines when his bicycle was stolen while camping in Ceres. After a radio campaign, the bike was found and repaired, enabling the cyclist to fulfil his dream. See his blog at kotambola.blog.fc2.com. German Dorothee Fleck has cycled around the world—twice. Her first trip started in 2008 and ended in 2011, after which she took some time off before starting her second world tour in 2012. The first trip took two years and five months; the second, two months shorter. All in all she has cycled some 150 000km, visiting 60-odd countries so far. Follow Dorothee on Twitter: @Dorofleck Tom Allen from the UK was 23 years old when he left his home town on his bike—with a tent, camera and a budget of R50 a day—for the ride of his life. Three years, three continents and 32 countries later, the freelance web developer found himself on his way back, with his Iranian wife, Tenny, in tow. Follow his adventures on Twitter: @tomsbiketrip

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“

The longest stretch without a rest day, eight days, was in the northern part of Sudan. That was really rough. I once thought I wasn’t

riders entered into Kenya, Zimmermann recalls. “After a week of eating better and consuming more protein, I started to feel the difference. I recovered easier, felt less sore and slept better. That’s when I realised that nutrition is everything. You have to replace what you burn off, especially when you’re going through extremes. Protein is a vital ingredient.” All in all, Ethiopia proved to be the most difficult country as a result of the lack of food and how the riders were received by the locals en route. “People in Egypt were incredibly friendly, but true salespeople. They would make sure to help you out and be friendly, just to get money. They were friendly nevertheless,” he says. “The same counts for the Sudanese. In Ethiopia, however, we were met with aggression. Kids would throw stones and sticks at us as we’d cycle through or past their villages. It was truly horrific. Some people got hit in the face. It was three weeks of that, every single day. I was quite relieved when we reached the border.” Kenya, on the other hand, was wonderful, Zimmermann remembers. “It is an amazing country with amazing

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”

going to make it.

people. I would move there tomorrow. The same counts for Tanzania. Malawi is interesting, too. Lake Malawi is beautiful, and I’m so happy that they haven’t started developing it. But, on the other hand, people need work. There were a lot of beggars in Malawi,” he says, referring to the fact that Malawi is one of the poorest countries in Africa. Then via Zambia, Botswana and Namibia, the Tour d’Afrique riders made their way into South Africa. “The happiest moment was crossing the border at Vioolsdrift [Namibia],” Zimmermann says. “From there onward, we rode some 150km per day, after which we arrived in Cape Town six days later.” Apart from camera SD cards full of photographs, a head chock-a-block with memories and experiences that will last him a lifetime, the Tour d’Afrique has reinforced Zimmermann’s faith in his home country and the rest of the continent. “I can finally say that I am part of Africa after cutting through this continent on my bike,” he says, adding that he has never been more proud to be a South African. “I have so much hope for this

country, after what I’ve seen. I truly hope we will stand together and fight for it. I do think we’re on the right track, although I believe we need new political leadership. After all, we have an amazing country, full of character and incredible people.” A five-minute edit of the 121-day adventure can be viewed at youtu.be/SzrNFV16Ck4.

Tour d’A frique by the numbers

• 32 full-tour riders • 8 sectional riders • 10 tour staff • 11 different nationalities • 121 days in total, including 94 riding days and 27 rest days • 150km – average distance per day • 8 days – longest stretch of cycling without rest days (Sudan) • 529h 56m 43s – time set by the fastest woman, Sue Shuttleworth (UK) • 297h 40m 39s – number of hours spent on the bike by race winner, Mike Lantz (US) • 337h 47m 54s – Ivan Zimmermann’s race time (3rd place)

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here’s no denying winter’s icy talons are thawing, and spring is the perfect time to get off the couch and once more be active in the great outdoors. From performance watches and hydration reservoirs to sleeping bags and polar fleeces, Cape Union Mart has your next adventure covered.

Fitbit Charge HR

It may look like nothing more than a rubber bracelet, but the Charge HR is actually a highly intelligent piece of technical wizardry that’s seriously fuss-free to use. All you have to do is strap it to your wrist and charge it every five days or so—the unit will do the rest. Like all Fitbit products, it’ll track how many steps you take during the day; it’ll automatically record your sleep patterns; and you’ll be able to access all the data it gathers on Fitbit’s industry-leading activity-tracking platform. But—and this is a big ‘but’—the Charge HR will also record your heart rate, 24 hours a day, seven days a week. It does this using an optical sensor that’s very similar to the one in the TomTom Runner Cardio (see next page), but there are marked differences. If you want to keep continuous tabs on your biorhythms, get the Charge HR. But if you’re more into analysing your performance while running, cycling or at the gym, the Runner Cardio is what you need.

Fitbit Charge HR R2 499

SPRING INTO ACTION

THE DAYS ARE GETTING LONGER AND THE SUN’S GETTING BRIGHTER—TIME TO HIT THE TRAILS, SAYS NICK DALL

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TomTom Runner Cardio GPS Watch

If you thought TomTom only made GPSes, you have another thing coming. Although it’s relatively new to the performance-watch market, its Runner Cardio has given a very clear signal that the company intends to run with the big boys. At first glance, the Runner Cardio is a beautifully engineered device that oozes funky athleticism, and closer inspection only serves to ramp this up another notch. The TomTom Runner Cardio makes use of world-leading technology to bring you a wrist-worn heart-rate monitor that doesn’t require a chest strap. Instead, it has an optical sensor that peers into your capillaries and counts how often they pulse. And that’s not all. It has a built-in GPS (duh!),

modern day-packs, making hands-free sipping a cheap and easy reality for all. It’s made from antibacterial medical-grade silicone, and the hose has a quick-release mechanism for easy cleaning.

K-Way 24oz Insulated Water Bottle

The weather may be warming up, but that doesn’t mean your drink has to do the same. This stylish 700ml water bottle is a pleasure to drink from, and features a space-age foil inner that keeps your drink icy for hours on end. You’ll be really grateful for it when the sun’s beating down relentlessly and you’re still only halfway up Suikerbossie.

K-Way Lite 40L Hiking Pack This ultra-lightweight pack (it weighs only

The moment you take the Extreme Lite 500 out of its stuff sack, you know you’ve something special in your hands. True, it’s more expensive than a run-of-the-mill polyester bag, but this super-lightweight goose-down bag is from another planet. Designed with adventure racers and summer backpackers in mind, it weighs only 470g and packs down smaller than a loaf of bread. The outer is made from ripstop nylon, and the soft polyester inner wicks moisture away from your body. But the real star of the show is the incredible goose-down filling. With a comfort rating of 9°C, you definitely wouldn’t want to take it to Everest or the ‘Berg in winter— but if you couple it with an inner sheet for extra warmth, it can handle most South African conditions easily. Provided you take care of it properly, it’ll last for yonks.

K-Way 24oz Insulated Water Bottle R150

TomTom Runner Cardio GPS Watch R2 999 K-Way Lite 40L Hiking Pack R750

a scratch-resistant display, and a whole host of super-intuitive modes that get a double thumbs-up from DC Rainmaker— the most established critic in the business. What’s more, the Runner Cardio is waterresistant to a depth of 50 metres; it can wirelessly communicate with your smartphone or tablet via Bluetooth; and it weighs a hard-to-believe 63 grammes.

K-Way 2L Hydration Reservoir Whether you’re heading for the hills, pounding the tarmac or cycling up a storm, one thing’s for certain: You’ll need liquid, and plenty of it. This rapid-fill hydration reservoir is compatible with most

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K-Way Extreme Lite 500 Sleeping Bag R1 999

KEEN Men’s Newport Sandals R1 299

K-Way 2L Hydration Reservoir R250

K-Way Extreme Lite 500 Sleeping Bag

KEEN Men’s Newport Sandals

767g!) is deceptively roomy and exceptionally versatile. At 40 litres, it’s more than big enough for an overnight hike (or even something longer if you pack carefully), but it’s also perfectly at home on day hikes and it has the funky good looks you’d expect from an urban commuter pack. It is hydration-system compatible, made of tough-as-nails ripstop nylon, and features loads of nifty pouches and pockets. The list goes on…

American brand, KEEN, makes the best all-terrain sandals in the business, and the Newport is its most trusted style. It offers unbelievable support, and its ingenious strap design means you can customise the sandal to fit your foot perfectly. What’s more, the multidirectional lugs on the outsole give maximum traction on slippery surfaces. The washable, waterproof leather used in the construction of the Newports means they are actually machine-washable (cold wash, gentle cycle) and the Microbe Shield treatment on the lining keeps the sandals odour-free for longer. Talk about form meeting function!

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Salomon is all about maximising support while keeping weight to a minimum, and this makes it the brand of choice for many of the world’s best trail runners. The Speedcross 3’s Sensifit design envelops and cradles your feet for a precise fit that minimises foot slippage, and the Quicklace system means you’ll never again be able to use an undone lace as an excuse for a water break! The combination of a cushioned midsole, Lightweight Muscle chassis and aggressive Contagrip outsoles means you’ll feel like you’re in a sedan even if you’re on terrain that’s 4x4–only. The Speedcross 3 is also available as a women’s shoe.

K-Way Men’s Razorback Fleece Jacket

Ever since they took the outdoor world by storm in the 1980s, fleece jackets have been warm and lightweight—but in the old days, they were also bulky and a bit restrictive. The sleek K-Way Razorback throws all of that out the window by using the latest technology to bring you a warm-and-toasty zip-up jacket that weighs a mere 240g, is small enough to stuff in the side pouch of your daypack, and is so flexible and stretchy that you’ll forget you’re even wearing it. The fleece also has an anti-pill finish to prevent bobbling.

K-Way Men’s Arc Jacket

In the mountains, the weather can change in an instant, but carrying a full-on rain jacket in the middle of a Cape summer seems a bit silly, doesn’t it? The K-Way Arc is a lightweight active shell that’s windproof, breathable

midday. The shorts have cunning zip pockets for essentials such as cash and energy gels, and are made from a fabric that dries so quickly, you’ll only ever need one pair. If you’re serious about running, you really should treat yourself to a pair of these sleek athletic machines.

Tr a vel gea r

Salomon Men’s Speedcross 3 Shoes

K-Way Men’s Slipstream Jacket

The all-new K-Way Slipstream jacket will only be in stores October 2015, but those of us who are lucky enough to have tried out the prototypes can assure you it’ll be worth waiting for. This ultralight (140g!) jacket is 100% windproof and its

K-Way Men’s Arc Jacket R699

K-Way Men’s Tundra Boots R1 999

Salomon Men’s Speedcross 3 Shoes R1 999 K-Way Men’s Slipstream Jacket R799

K-Way Men’s Razorback Fleece Jacket R499

HING LAUNC OBER T C IN O 15 20 K-Way Men’s Knox Shorts R450

K-Way Men’s Tundra Boots

Gosh, this is an attractive boot! But it’s so much more than just a pretty face. The K-Way Tundra ticks all the boxes. Its combination leather-and-mesh upper is tough where you need it to be and breathable elsewhere, and the steel shank between the midsole and outsole gives it some serious backbone. Thanks to its durable water-repellent coating and waterproof lining, the Tundra will keep you dry no matter how many puddles there are on the trail. But because the lining is also breathable, you won’t have to deal with excess perspiration on a hot day.

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and finished with a water-repellent coating. But it’s so small that it packs into its own chest pocket! It won’t keep you dry in a deluge, but you’ll be amazed at how effectively it combats wind chill and light drizzle.

K-Way Men’s Knox Shorts

These are the Ferraris of the running shorts world. They are unbelievably lightweight; their gusset is exceedingly comfortable and is guaranteed to prevent chafe; and they do a better job of moisture management than the Kalahari sun at

ergonomic tailored fit is designed not to rustle or flap, no matter how much you push it on those downhills. It’s waterrepellent as well, and boasts the breathability that’s essential in cutting-edge active wear. As the name suggests, it was designed with cyclists and runners in mind, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it’s taken up by gym bunnies too—it certainly does have good looks on its side!

The Intrepid Explorer issue11

R ya n Sa n des

ORGANISED CHAOS VANESSA HAYWOOD-SANDES DETAILS THE PLANNING THAT GOES INTO CREWING FOR TOP SOUTH AFRICAN PRO TRAIL RUNNER, RYAN SANDES

When I first met my husband, Ryan, five years ago, he was competing mainly in crazy self-supporting, multi-stage desert races that involved no bathing or clothing changes, very little sleep and minimal eating over seven days. “In his old age” (his own words), he’s come to prefer the less masochistic supported races, although I’m not sure how running 160 kilometres in one day is anything less than self-torture….

’ve many vivid images imprinted in my memory of these sweaty, almostpossessed pro trail runners at the front of the race, averaging 5.5 minutes per kilometre over the full distance—and it’s not always pretty. Crewing a professional runner at a 100- to 160-kilometre race sometimes feels like you’re the producer on a big film set, trying to juggle 10 balls at once without upsetting the star—in my case, Ryan. Although he’d never behave like a prima donna, if for whatever reason his crew is not at an aid station when he gets there, he could potentially lose the race. Crewing at an international race involves a massive amount of logistical planning: the running route needs to be recced by the athlete, and the crew members need to know the driving/supporting route like the back of their hands. GPS helps, but when you’re in a country that doesn’t share your mother tongue, things can get iffy. And it can sometimes take us hours to drive from one aid station to the next, making timelines very tight. Take the Transgrancanaria, for example: The race takes place on the volcanic island of Las Palmas in the Canaries, with a massive mountain in the centre that ‘tapers’ toward the ocean and its beautiful beaches. The maze of hundreds of incredibly narrow vein-like roads that lead off in every direction from the island’s centre doesn’t make for quick driving. Last year I got stuck behind a long line of buses and cars filled with tourists. Ryan was in first place, but his competitors

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were close on his heels. I had a two-hour drive to make it to the final (and most vital) checkpoint. After calmly sitting there for what seemed like a lifetime, I got out of my vehicle and walked the 800 metres to investigate what the holdup was. Two thousand runners had just started the marathon distance of the race and were crossing the road, and the Spaniards were out of their cars, lining the road and trail, shouting “Olé!” and clapping them along. This was going to take hours, I fumed… Very few people in the Canaries speak English, so when this spitting-mad blonde South African woman approached the crowd with arms waving and screaming obscenities, they just looked at me like I’d lost my mind. Finally I managed to explain to them that they were preventing crewing teams getting to their 100-mile runners. My heart was racing as I sped into the last checkpoint with only minutes to spare before Ryan came running in, completely oblivious to the bedlam that had just occurred. Ziploc bags! Ziploc bags of all sizes are the best invention since electricity. Ryan will pre-pack all his race nutrition, gear and various goodies into these plastic bags for each aid station. I then go through the bags with him, checking off items and ‘things to do’ at the aid station on an extensive Excel spreadsheet. The night before a race, the car’s packed to the brim with drinks and food for the crew team, Ryan’s water, nutrition and extra gear, as well as a crew table and chairs, among other things.

When Ryan enters an aid station, there’s ‘organised chaos’ for all of 10 to 15 seconds at the most, before he dashes out and we pack up, moving on to the next place. At hot races, cooling him down is the most important thing, but the task of replacing nutrition and water flasks, and giving him race splits, is more or less the same at each aid station. We have it pretty much waxed by now!

Here’s your chance to join the crew!

Record your attempt of the Red Bull Table Mountain FKT (‘Fastest Known Times’) Challenge by 31 August 2015 to enter the lucky draw to win a trip for you and a partner to Réunion Island in October, where Ryan is to compete in Le Grand Raid de la Réunion—one of the toughest ultra trail races in the world, aptly also known as La Diagonale des Fous (The Madmen’s Diagonal). You will not only get the opportunity to enjoy the race and watch Ryan compete, but also to assist Vanessa in crewing him. It’s an incredibly stressful but rewarding job, and there’s nothing better than experiencing a pro athlete’s journey through a tough race—from start to finish. For race information, rules and prize details, see www.redbull.com/za/en/ adventure/events/1331706576456/ table-mountain-fkt-with-ryan-sandes.

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THE DIGITAL VERSION OF

The Intrepid Explorer

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• ROUGH STUFF – The gruelling Expedition Africa race • WHITE-WATER WONDERLAND – India’s Malabar River Festival • CHANGING COURSE – Craig Harrison finds adventure at the South Pole • WILD RIDE – Ivan Zimmermann completes 12 000km Tour d’Afrique • THROUGH THE LENS – Best of the 2015 Wild Shots Wildlife Photography Symposium www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • 2nd Quarter Edition 2015

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FOR THE LOVE OF THE GAME

Traversing 45 countries to Rugby World Cup

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A LEGACY OF HOPE

Tribute to Dr Ian Player

FIRE & ICE

Hiking Iceland’s volcanoes

GIRLS GONE BIRDING

Lessons and laughter in the Kruger

SA FREEDIVING CHAMP HANLI PRINSLOO LEADS THE WAY IN OCEAN CONSERVATION OUR INTREPID CONTRIBUTORS: Braam Malherbe, Casey B. Dolan, Jeremy Loops & AJ Calitz

The official Cape Union Mart magazine

• WIN! A five-night stay for two at Kurland Hotel, worth R23 100! • LIVIN’ IT UP IN L.A. – Hiking and cycling in the City of Angels • IN THE LINE OF FIRE – The heroes of the Volunteer Wildlife Services • SHARK SPOTTERS – Keeping both swimmers and sharks safe • LIGHTHOUSE FAMILY – Our beacons of life and death • EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED – Unearth the gems of the Northern Cape

On the

WILD SIDE We give you the inside scoop on the outside world. We look at some of the astounding feats that are being accomplished by intrepid people and places; new developments and the latest books on offer; and events to diarise in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So what are you waiting for? Get out there and make the most of the outdoors! Compiled by Robbie Stammers

Shoot and score with The Intrepid Explorer and Ugu South Coast Tourism

ated the biggest underwater photography competition, now in its fifth year, things are heating up in the World ShootOut Underwater Photo Grand Prix Competition. Off the back of an invitation from African Dive Adventures, and as a result of thus attending one of the world’s largest oceanic and water-themed exhibitions—Das Boot in Germany—in January this year, Ugu South Coast Tourism is proud to announce it is one of the top prize partners. And with this

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

competition attracting over $700 000 worth of prizes, and given the tough exchange rate, this has by no means been an easy feat! Producer David Pilosof initiated the first World ShootOut competition in 2011, introducing an international competition as never featured before. There is reportedly no other underwater photography competition that attracts such a significant number of entries, nor offers such spectacular prizes. Hundreds of photographers from countries around the world take part in the competition and thousands of images are

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submitted, ranging from those that capture the calm lakes of the Nordic countries and Canada to others that showcase the exotic secrets in Alaska and dramatic images of the great white shark in the Gulf of Mexico, or the hidden treasures on the South Coast of KwaZulu-Natal. Right up until 1 November 2015, the entire underwater world will play host to young, amateur and professional photographers from all over the world, competing with each other for some very worthy prizes including cash, luxurious diving trips, diving equipment, photo gear and more. Pilosof says this is the beauty of the competition—its global accessibility. The World ShootOut 2015 consists of two main sections: Real-Time ShootOut Photographers enjoy complete freedom of choosing their own diving destination and can take part in the competition by diving in any natural water resource found around the world, including seas, oceans, lakes, rivers, under the ice and more. Video Clips of the World Videographers are invited to submit their best and most impressive video clips, taken anytime and anywhere in the world, to the Video Clips of the World category—awarding the winner with a $2 000 cheque. Pilosof is also responsible for a variety of other impressive underwater photo productions including the Eilat Red Sea competition, which is regarded as the Olympics of international underwater photography. All World Shoot-Out winners and nominees will be announced at a festive ceremony filmed live and broadcast throughout Europe on 29 January 2016 at Das Boot Trade Fair in Düsseldorf, Germany.

Ugu South Coast Tourism (USCT) has embarked on a campaign with its members as well as Tourism KwaZulu-Natal to offer prize contributions. At the time of going to press, USCT, in association with TKZN, is officially sponsoring the first prize in the Sharks category, valued at R70 000. The prize consists of a ‘bucket list’ 14-day trip for two to the Paradise of the Zulu Kingdom, KwaZulu-Natal. It includes international flights; two dives per day on the famous Aliwal Shoal with Crystal Divers SA and staying at the legendary Blue Marlin Hotel; daily dives with African Dive Adventures on Protea Banks, and overnighting in stunning accommodation geared just for divers; hinterland experiences including the world’s highest gorge swing with Wild 5 Adventures and the fastest zipline at Lake Eland in the mighty Oribi Gorge; guided coffee and fossil farm tours; Zulu cultural experiences at Shakaland just north of Durban; a full-day Durban excursion with African Link Tours & Travel, and exploring the Gandhi and Mandela routes. All of this includes car hire and transfers, plus all accommodation on a B&B basis and additional meal vouchers. More sponsors are being confirmed. Says USCT CEO Justin Mackrory, “We see this as an excellent opportunity not only to showcase our diverse destination and our two incredible dive sites, but as a way to interact directly with the diving fraternity and with all those who treasure nature as much as we do. We wish the entrants the best of luck, and here’s hoping that one of the winning photos may well be taken right here on our shores.” For more information, visit www.worldshootout.org.

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GoPro Inc., enabler of some of today’s most engaging content, has just launched the HERO4 Session—the smallest, lightest, most convenient GoPro yet. Fifty percent smaller and 40% lighter than GoPro’s best-selling HERO4 Black and Silver cameras, the HERO4 Session packs GoPro’s Emmy Award–winning image quality and performance into an exciting new low-profile form factor. It benefits from a durable waterproof design that eliminates the need for a separate housing, and features simple one-button control to make capturing immersive photos and video quicker and more convenient than ever before. The HERO4 Session captures GoPro-quality 1080p60, 720p100 and 1440p30 video along with eight-megapixel photos in Single, Burst and Time Lapse modes. It features many of the same innovative features found in the HERO4 Black and Silver cameras, including SuperView, Protune and Auto Low Light recording modes. An expanded set of controls and settings can be accessed when using the GoPro App or Smart Remote. A short press of the shutter button quickly powers the camera on, and video recording begins automatically. A long press of the shutter button powers the camera on and triggers Time Lapse photo capture. Press the shutter button again to save video or photo content, and power the camera off. This simple onebutton design drastically improves the speed and convenience of capturing life moments as they happen. The HERO4 Session is built to GoPro’s famous rugged standards and is waterproof to 10 metres. It features a sleek frame mounting system that is compatible with GoPro’s expansive array of mounts. An innovative dual-microphone system dynamically switches sound recording between microphones to reduce wind noise during activities. Audio performance during waterbased activities has been dramatically improved thanks to the camera’s waterproof design that eliminates the need for a separate water housing that can often muffle sounds.

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Capture your hero moments

The groundbreaking new HERO4 Session retails at R6 499 and is available now at leading stores including Cape Union Mart. For more information, visit www.omnico.co.za or connect with World of Heroes on YouTube, Twitter, Facebook or Instagram.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Sea turtles are living dinosaurs, having survived some 90 million years, yet all seven species of sea turtle are threatened with extinction—with their populations declining at a rapid pace. This is largely due to various human activities and the loss of nesting habitats. From about April each year, the incidence of turtle strandings around Cape Town increases as juvenile turtles (mainly loggerheads) are swept down from the nesting grounds on the northern coast of KwaZulu-Natal in the mighty Agulhas current and are then washed ashore by stormy seas. They are often in a weak condition, having been exposed to cold water and suffering from dehydration. Each year, the Two Oceans Aquarium calls on the public to be on the lookout for these small, stranded hatchlings. This year, however, the influx has been unprecedented: To date, the aquarium has received more than 200 stranded hatchlings! What does it take to look after these turtles? Well, it takes a lot of time, a lot of manpower, and in some cases, a lot

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Help save the turtles

of medication as well as a considerable amount of money to ensure each turtle receives the best care possible for its rehabilitation and ultimate release. Most of all, it takes a lot of dedication and hard work by a small group of individuals. Kevin Spiby, the aquarist who runs the turtle rehabilitation programme at the Two Oceans, says: “It is really important that we try to rehabilitate every stranded sea turtle. Each turtle that we can return to health, and the sea, is another individual that can contribute to the survival of the species.” The rehabilitation of these turtles can take many months. During this time, the aquarium carries all costs associated with the rehabilitation: medication, food, external veterinary requirements, additional staff etc. Once the turtles are ready for release, the Two Oceans foots the bill for flying the turtles to Durban or other appropriate areas for release. Donations in support of the Two Oceans turtle rehabilitation programme can be made via the website: www.aquarium.co.za.

Just keep swimming

Ryan Stramrood represented South Africa in a world-first, two-way relay attempt to cross the notoriously difficult North Channel, swimming from Ireland to Scotland and back. He and his five teammates from around the globe (Ireland, Sweden, Finland, Estonia and Czech Republic) started their relay attempt on 27 July and completed the gruelling crossing approximately 30 hours later. They faced unbelievable challenges in the icy waters as a result of the poor weather, extreme distance and the violent lion’s mane jellyfish poisoning that ravaged the team. The total distance of the North Channel swim is over 70 kilometres, but the team ended up swimming well over 85km due to powerful currents. Stramrood completed about 20km personally in the 12.5°C temperatures. Each swimmer was expected to swim at their fastest speed possible for 60 minutes at a time, while enduring five sessions in the water each, swimming through the night. “Nothing could really prepare me for what this challenge would require mentally and physically. Extreme exhaustion and violent, relentless stings from the jellyfish made jumping back into the icy water over and over again a fantastically difficult challenge,” said Stramrood.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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Out a n d a bout Positive waves of change

At the southern tip of Africa lies Muizenberg, a small surf town nestled between mountain and vlei. As one of the world’s surfing meccas, it is the gateway to all the great surf spots in the Southern Peninsula. It is also home to an organisation called Surfpop: a social outreach programme making positive waves of change in the local community. Surfpop takes a unique approach to community upliftment by using surfing as a tool to enrich and transform lives. The programme works with youth in surrounding townships, who may otherwise have little hope of escaping their socio-economic environment: Poverty, crime, drugs and gangsterism are some of the daily battles these children face. Daniel Botha, founder of Surfpop and avid local surfer, has grown up in Cape Town and runs a backpackers in Muizenberg. Having been exposed to the poverty around him, and having realised the impact it had on the youth, he felt a strong desire to do something about it. Being a surfer, and having a fondness for the ocean, his natural instinct was to use surfing to bring about positive change. “There is nothing better than sharing your passion for the ocean and surfing with other people and seeing them experience the stoke of riding waves. Surfing brings people together—and when you experience this, you truly understand the saying: only a surfer knows the feeling,” says Botha. Surfpop operates as a volunteer programme. Financially and logistically, it relies on getting volunteers signed up. If you’d like to learn to surf, have a sense of adventure and the will to give back, this is for you. It’s a month-long programme that teaches you to surf, lets you explore Cape Town and its surrounds, and facilitates daily interaction with children from the local communities. Three times a week, you will enjoy a professional surf lesson, after which you will meet up with the Surfpop children and pass your newly acquired skills on to them. On alternating days, you’ll be able to enjoy other activities with the children, such as hiking, soccer, beach clean-ups, arts and crafts. Surfpop is for anyone wanting to effect positive change. It offers a unique and alternative way to incorporate the perfect mix of surfing, adventure and community upliftment. With the support and involvement of the travel community, Surfpop can make a real difference. The Intrepid Explorer salutes you!

Win with The Intrepid Explorer and Chris Bertish!

As if setting new world records, releasing his life-story documentary, Ocean Driven, plus being this edition’s front-cover ‘model’ weren’t enough, Chris Bertish has just released his autobiography, Stoked!. This is the story of how a skinny little kid from Cape Town managed to travel halfway around the world without sponsorship, and then outwit, outsmart and outperform the world’s best paid professional athletes on a day that changed his life—and the sport of big-wave surfing— forever. Bertish was the first South African to brave the monster waves of Mavericks, winning the Mavericks Big Wave Invitational surfing event in the biggest and heaviest waves ever recorded in the history of the sport. Chris’s mantra is: Dream it, See it, Believe it, Achieve it. With his infectious enthusiasm, he tells of how he pulled off death-defying antics time and again, overcame overwhelming obstacles, and manoeuvred around the many random twists of fate to achieve his goals and fulfil his dreams. The list of Bertish’s world firsts and achievements include numerous world records in other completely different sports, including Adventurer of the Year awards and the Open Ocean 12-hour-distance SUP Guinness World Record in 2014. When he’s not managing his brand business in Cape Town, he travels the world, inspiring audiences with his story of how there’s no such thing as “Impossible”—only “I’m Possible”.

Win

Two lucky readers can win a signed copy of Stoked! by emailing the answer to this simple question to taryn@intrepidexplorer.co.za before 1 October 2015, along with your name and contact details. Question: What is Chris Bertish’s mantra? Winners will be notified by email or telephone. To book Bertish as a speaker, or to see a full list of his achievements, go to www.chrisbertish.com.

For further details, check out www.surfpop.co.za.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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Banff is back!

This October, the annual Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour comes to South Africa, bringing with it films of adventures by ski, bike, rock, ropes and on water. For the 10th year, Cape Union Mart proudly hosts the screening of the films at Ster-Kinekor cinemas in Cape Town, Durban, Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth and Pretoria. From Antarctica to Iceland, the annual Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour visits 44 countries to bring a selection of films on exploration, adventure, culture, environment, and mountain films to growing audiences. Eleven award-winning and audience-nominated films, selected from hundreds of submissions, will be shown at each screening in South Africa. They include a mix of topics and styles that are entertaining, inspiring and thought-provoking. These films range in duration from the intense-action, two-minute kayaking video Into the Ditch, to the 37-minute documentary film And then we swam—winner of the Best Exploration & Adventure Film category. Regular audiences will delight in seeing some of their favourite adventurers in action. Danny MacAskill is up to his mountain-biking feats again in Danny MacAskill—The Ridge; Rush Sturges kayaks in an urban environment in Into the Ditch, and Alex Honnold climbs desert towers in Sufferfest 2. South African audiences will also be treated to the screening of an additional five-minute film: the winning submission from the Cape Union Mart Adventure Film Challenge. This annual film competition encourages South African filmmakers and athletes to capture and celebrate local outdoor culture. The 2015 Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour will be screened at these Ster-Kinekor cinemas: • Cape Town – Cavendish Square, Friday, 23 October to Monday, 2 November 2015 • Cape Town – Tygervalley Centre, Friday, 23 October to Monday, 2 November 2015 • Johannesburg – Sandton City, Friday, 23 October to Monday, 2 November 2015 • Pretoria – Brooklyn Mall, Friday, 23 October to Monday, 2 November 2015 • Durban – Gateway, 30 & 31 October 2015 (two nights only) • Port Elizabeth – The Bridge, 31 October 2015 (one night only) Shows start at 20h00, and all 11 films are shown at each screening. Tickets are available from 9 September 2015 and can be purchased directly through Ster-Kinekor. Book online at www.sterkinekor.com or call Ster-Kinekor Ticketline on 082 16789. Ticket prices are the same as a standard Ster-Kinekor ticket. The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is hosted by Cape Union Mart, in proud partnership with leading outdoor brands K-Way, LED Lenser, Deuter and GoPro. Further details and information at www.banff.co.za.

Discover a new land with Wild Frontiers and Pioneers Zimbabwe has been often in the news—often for the wrong reasons. However, there are currently some extremely positive tidings for the region: the new international airport nearing completion (end of 2015) in Victoria Falls, which has spurned some new developments on the tourism front. One of those is a great little camp called Pioneers, just outside Victoria Falls inside the Zambezi National Park. This intimate tented camp, comprising just six massive luxury tents comfortably spaced along the Zambezi River (your neighbours are well out of ‘snoring distance’), offers that rare mix of comfort and rugged safari experience. There are no fences, so wildlife can (and often does) wander into camp—keeping you alert to the fact you are inside a pristine national park where elephant, lion, sable, eland, leopard and buffalo are seen frequently. From this camp, enjoy game drives in open vehicles, a walking safari, boating on the Zambezi, fishing for tiger and bream, and canoeing in inflatable canoes, as there are a few small rapids along the way. It is also a rewarding birdwatching region. Wild Frontiers has a special offer for this camp, valid until 15 December 2015: Stay for a minimum of two nights, and get an extra night free! The saving on this special is huge, and it allows you possibly to use that saving to stay a night in the Vic Falls area at one of the many hotels to enjoy some adventure activities around town. Email reservations@wildfrontiers.com for more information on this incredible offer—take your friends and make a celebration of it!

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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The Shamwari Group has raised over R10 million for the Wilderness Foundation’s Forever Wild Campaign—an initiative to help save our endangered African rhinos. Since 2012, three of the Shamwari Group properties—Shamwari Game Reserve, Sanbona Wildlife Reserve and Jock Safari Lodge—have taken part in this campaign by offering guests a discounted rate if they donate a minimum of R200 per person per night when making a booking at any of the three properties. New solarpowered anti-poaching vehicles have also been introduced at Shamwari Game Reserve. The Shamwari Group general manager Joe Cloete said: “We’re incredibly proud to have raised over R10 million for the conservation of rhino in South Africa. The money provides much-needed technical and infrastructural assistance to various reserves and parks in South Africa through the Wilderness Foundation. The fight against poaching is an ongoing battle, and we remain absolutely focused on our objective, and that is to protect and conserve these animals. The Forever Wild offer is ongoing.” Besides the fact that Shamwari reserves and lodges are world-class, you now have another reason to book some magical time there: www.shamwarigroup.com.

Kilimanjaro Mt Kenya Himalayas Inca Trail Ngorongoro Highlands Gorilla Trekking Serengeti Walking Safari

HIKING AND TREKKING

WITH THE EXPERIENCED

PROFESSIONALS Tel: 011 702 2035 or 072 927 7529 Fax: 086 689 6759 reservations@wildfrontiers.com www.wildfrontiers.com

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Shamwari gives it horns

Big adventure in small Swaziland

Despite being the smallest country in the southern hemisphere, Swaziland more than makes up for its size with myriad attractions and activities to explore. Buried in the heart of South Africa, the Kingdom of Swaziland is the ideal holiday destination for adventure seekers, sports enthusiasts and outdoor explorers alike. Its rugged mountains, sweeping valleys and sparkling rivers make it the ideal choice for South Africans seeking adventure in their own backyard. Those who want to know Swaziland on a deeper level can try their hand at the area’s world-class caving. But for travellers who require above-ground adventures, the country’s attractions continue at a bird’s-eye view. Malolotja Nature Reserve, home to Swaziland’s first and only treetop canopy tour, is located in the Sihlotswane Gorge, where a 50m suspension bridge and 11 wooden platforms have been ingeniously affixed to the steep ridges. The Kingdom’s highlands, mountains and gorges also offer a multitude of opportunities to climb and descend the stunning terrain. Back on lower ground, you can experience Swaziland’s secluded rivers from a tube or white-water raft. Trips are run by Swazi Trails on the Bulungapoort section of the Usutu River, between the villages of Sidvokodvo and Siphofaneni in the centre of the country. If a golfing holiday is more your speed, Swaziland boasts two immaculate championship-standard 18-hole courses: the Royal Swazi Spa Country Club and the Nkonyeni Golf Estate. And in your time off the green, enjoy fishing in any one of the country’s numerous rivers and dams. To get up close and personal with Swaziland’s highlands, forests and reserves, try touring on foot or mountain bike. From short two-hour jaunts to full-day hikes, off-road footpaths give you enviable access to sites unapproachable by car. If you want to kick your exploring into high gear, tackle the spectacular mountain biking paths in Mhlambanyatsi, Hawane, Hlane, Malolotja, Mbuluzi and Shewula. Join the adventure movement on social media and keep up to date with the latest Kingdom of Swaziland news on the newly launched Facebook and Twitter pages dedicated to South Africans interested in visiting this lesser known gem. Facebook: MySwazilandSA; Twitter: @ILoveSwaziland; or see www.thekingdomofswaziland.com.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

If you’re reading this, it’s probably because you’re a coffee fanatic, someone who relishes their favourite cuppa—taking comfort in the rich aroma and being transported to heaven at the first sip. Coffee is your lifeblood; it’s your special indulgence that’s meant to be enjoyed on your own or with loved ones. Your coffee, your way, your time. Café Enrista understands this—and its coffee offers the ultimate in convenience, taste and choice. It’s hard to believe such a rich blend of coffee, creamer and sugar can be found in a small sachet. The perfect blends mixed with non-dairy cream and natural cane sugar are the best solution for anyone looking to make a cup of coffee without the hassle of adding milk and sugar. Just add hot water and you can enjoy a perfect cup anywhere, anytime. From the ardent coffee drinker who loves a strong cup to anyone who’s looking for an indulgent treat, Café Enrista has something for every palate. Camping holidays and road trips are the perfect opportunities to enjoy the 2-in-1 and 3-in-1 ranges where convenience is key—letting you enjoy your adventures with the comforts of home. They are also the perfect coffee-time treat during your busy working day at the office. Looking for something a bit more exotic? Imagine an Italian villa, where a sultry barista serves you the richest, finest cappuccino topped with a cloud of frothy decadence… Now you can have that at home with the Café Enrista Cappuccino range in decaffeinated, regular and lite variants. For a more indulgent treat, try the Café Latte, Café Mocha or the hot chocolate and white hot chocolate variants. And for the tea lovers out there, Café Enrista has two new products just for you: Instant Tea—Rooibos & Honey, a soothing and refreshing cup in the South African tradition; and Instant Tea—Chai Latté. The warm, aromatic flavours of chai tea have their roots in the ancient Ayurvedic tradition of India, where roadside tea merchants can be found preparing tea with traditional healing spices such as cardamom, cinnamon and black pepper. Featuring ingredients gathered from around the globe, this version is wonderfully sweet and spicy—and every bit as soothing.

4787 Angelcy 2015

Out a n d a bout

The perfect cup—every time

SPRING IN THE

KRUGER:

COME

WELCOME

THE NEXT

GENERATION

Few things on planet Earth match the beauty and joie de vivre of wild babies. Come share in the joy a mere 200m from the Phalaborwa Gate of the Kruger National Park in cool, contemporary luxury. The weather is great and the food delicious! J

015 781 3447 explore@bushveldterrace.co.za www.bushveldterrace.co.za B&B rates from R545 pppns FIND THE HIDDEN PROMOTIONAL PASSWORD ON OUR WEBSITE & GET A FREE NIGHT FOR EVERY 3 NIGHTS BOOKED* *1 Sep - 30 Nov 2015. Ts & Cs apply.

Adver tor ia l

STEPPING FOR SA WOMEN THE SPAR WOMEN’S CHALLENGE BRINGS LADIES TOGETHER IN A POWERFUL WAY

enny Lebyane is best known for her time as a MetroFM DJ and for her current role presenting the Sunrise breakfast show on e.tv—but what most people won’t know is that she is passionate about the upliftment of women in Africa. Shortly after summiting Mount Kilimanjaro, she was named a brand ambassador for the SPAR Women’s Challenge—the ideal role for someone who is literally willing to climb mountains for a cause close to her heart. “I’m not afraid of a challenge,” she says with a smile as she recalls her Kilimanjaro experience. “I describe the climb in the context of the cause to which I dedicated it,” referring to the Trek4Mandela Challenge that saw her climbing to the top of the highest freestanding mountain in the world on behalf of the Keeping The Girl Child in School initiative. “I would describe the climb as everything that the journey of life is: It was challenging mentally, emotionally, physically and spiritually. It pushed me psychologically to achieve the balance and strength it takes to make it to the top.

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That is what the journey of life is for a young woman: You have to juggle so many aspects of life at once to get to the top, whether the top for you is passing grade 8 or getting into university, and all the way to finally getting your top job or becoming a mother. Life really is like climbing a mountain.” Penny believes one needs the right equipment in order to be successful in one’s climb, in the form of the right attitude, the right mindset and the right support. “Ultimately, what it will come down to is every little step you take, putting one foot in front of the other to make it to the top,” she says. “That is why I not only want to take part in the SPAR Women’s Challenge race, I want to become involved so that I can use my voice to further the initiatives supported by the race and to be part of an event that brings women together in such a powerful way.” Leading an active lifestyle that includes regular running and walking training sessions, Penny feels she is physically prepared for the race, which takes place at the end of August—and in keeping

with this year’s race theme of #SteppingFor, she will be dedicating every step she takes in the race to worthy causes. She will be stepping for the Keeping The Girl Child in School initiative as well as for the South African Depression & Anxiety Group. “It is something I think I should definitely do once in my life,” says Penny. “Physically, I am prepared to take on the challenge, but beyond that I see a long-term relationship between myself and the SPAR Women’s Challenge. “My life experience is that of a woman, and I enjoy sharing my personal experience because I believe women are uniquely equipped to help one another because we face challenges that are unique to our gender,” she adds.

The SPAR Women’s Challenge Pretoria Get to SuperSport Park in Centurion on 29 August to take part in the 5km or 10km race, and be part of this year’s theme, #SteppingFor! Go to your nearest SPAR store to pick up an entry form or enter online at www.sparladiespta.co.za. There’ll be lots of fun for women of all ages, including live entertainment, shopping and fabulous prizes to be won. Each entrant will receive a gift bag full of wonderful SPAR goodies, and medals will be awarded to all runners who cross the finish line.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Ph oto es s a y

lens

LIFE THROUGH THE

IN THIS EDITION, WE FEATURE SOME OF THE WORLD’S TOP PHOTOGRAPHERS WHO WILL BE PRESENTING AT THIS YEAR’S WILD SHOTS WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY SYMPOSIUM

Art Wolfe: Lava Flows Into The Sea, Hawaii

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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In today’s fast-paced digital world, where every budding photographer now has a top-quality camera to capture thousands of images in a shoot, there is an astonishing proliferation of wildlife imagery—not to mention increased overexposure via our never-ending connectivity to a screen and social networks. Indeed, “more images have been taken in the last two years than in the entire history of our planet,” according to Shem Compion of C4 Photo Safaris. This makes it very difficult to develop one’s own style, stand out from the crowd and avoid replicating images one has already seen, from all the other thousands of photographers doing exactly the same.

An incredible variety of styles, skills and approaches are now being developed, reflecting the great advances in technology and the many ways of viewing and interpreting the natural world. Once again, South Africa plays host to a unique gathering of the world’s top photographers at the 2015 Wild Shots Wildlife Photography Symposium, taking place in Cape Town on 24 October—and for the first time, in Johannesburg on 21 November. Here are some examples from a selection of this year’s speakers, showing how each has taken a new look at a subject and developed his or her distinctive style.

Wild Shots is South Africa’s premier wildlife photography event, bringing together amateurs and professionals, as well as nature enthusiasts, to learn from—and be inspired by—the best in the business. For further information and to register, see www.wildshotsevent.com.

One of this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s keynote speakers in Cape Town, Art Wolfe, is renowned for his inimitable styles and powerful storytelling

Photojournalist Karen Shermbrucker’s evocative image of African women proves that, though the temptation to use the camera in the most literal and ‘accurate’ way can be powerful, if you are daring, magic can be created

Wim Vorster’s backlit meerkat shows that, with a little imagination, it’s possible to find a fresh, new view with even a well-documented species

Kim Wolhuter has witnessed at first hand the many threats facing the African wild dog. This young pup—marooned in a stark, degraded, fragmented habitat—is a powerful metaphor for the dogs’ plight

Janaina Matarozzo from Brazil uses her camera to create fine-art images, with a powerful combination of light, depth and mood

This fairy-tale photo of snails by Marcus Jooste tells a wonderful story, and shows that great narratives can often be found close to home

Obie Oberholzer (Johannesburg keynote speaker): Camel Caravan Near Gobedra Quarry, Axum, Northern Ethiopia

BIG

ROBBIE STAMMERS GIVES US A GUIDED TOUR OF THE NEW AND EXCITING VEHICLES THAT HAVE BEEN SPOTTED ON OUR ROADS RECENTLY

We usually feature ‘The Big 5’ in The Intrepid Explorer—but sometimes, along with these bundu-bashing big boys, we include some of the smaller beasts that are just as versatile but perhaps more suited to the concrete jungle and the school run.

For a go-anywhere lifestyle – Opel Mokka

The all-new Opel Mokka, the car manufacturer’s first-ever subcompact SUV, made its South African debut at the end of March. The vehicle, which has received unprecedented international acclaim—with orders in Europe in 2014 easily surpassing the 240 000 units mark—is the third of the ‘new Germans’ from Opel to be launched in South Africa in just three months. Its high levels of quality, driver aids and safety technology as well as versatility place the Mokka firmly at the top of this segment. It is aimed at consumers who have active lifestyles and a taste for adventure. In this regard, it is perfectly matched to the aspirational lifestyles of the target groups but, more than that, it offers a quality alternative to those customers who live urban lifestyles and fully appreciate the high seating position, extra space, versatility and go-anywhere nature of an SUV. The high level of specification in the new Mokka is backed up

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

by an efficient turbocharged petrol engine, giving all models sporty driving dynamics. It is available in a four-model range with a choice of two trim levels and the option of six-speed manual or six-speed automatic transmissions with front-wheel drive only. Opel’s proven 1.4-litre turbocharged ECOTEC petrol engine does duty in all four derivatives, producing 103kW between 4 900 and 6 000rpm and a usable 200Nm of torque between 1 850 and 4 900rpm. I enjoyed the Mokka, and think it is going to do well in the local market—even though it does have quite a lot of stiff competition. Price tags Mokka Enjoy 1.4T Mokka Enjoy 1.4T auto Mokka Cosmo 1.4T Mokka 1.4 T Cosmo auto

R288 500 R298 500 R325 500 R335 500

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Hit th e r oa d, J a c k The urban trendsetter – Opel Adam

My daughter was extremely impressed when I arrived at school to collect her in the new Opel Adam. She thought it was “very funky”, and her reaction was clearly what Opel was going for. If you’re wondering, the car is named for the company’s founder Adam Opel, who not only made cars and bicycles but also invented the sewing machine in 1862. So the vehicle also pays homage to the brand’s long and illustrious heritage, claims the automaker. Positioned as an urban trendsetter and personalisation champion, Opel’s entry into the luxury mini segment is set to shake up the market with a comprehensive offering of standard safety equipment, infotainment and convenience features usually reserved for more premium-priced vehicles. Built at Opel’s plant in Eisenach, Germany, the Adam is an A-segment, three-door, four-seat hatchback with a high level of customer-related equipment. Opel has placed firm emphasis on providing class-leading ergonomics and interior materials, fun-to-drive dynamics, great technology and an overall premium build quality. Two petrol engines power the Opel Adam. The entry-level vehicle features a naturally aspirated 1.4-litre ECOTEC four-cylinder unit with 74kW and 130Nm of torque, mated to a five-speed manual gearbox. This engine, which has a combined fuel consumption figure of 5.3 litres per 100km, and carbon emissions of 125g/km, allows for a top speed of 185km/h and a 0-100km/h acceleration time of 11.5 seconds. The interior delivers what the exterior promises: style and ambience in a well-organised and ergonomically superior compact package. Clever use of elements such as high-quality materials, two-tone colour schemes, satin- and glossy chrome accents and ambient lighting—usually found only in higher priced luxury vehicles—give the Adam a premium feel. This car is going to prove extremely popular with the younger, trendy crowd—and that’s a good thing, as its one drawback is that it has no boot space to speak of, so it certainly won’t work as a family vehicle.

Find new roads – 2015 Chevrolet Cruze Hatch

Cruze is Chevrolet’s best-selling car around the world, with 3.5 million sold since it went on sale in 2008—and one can see why this is the case. The manufacturer has enhanced the Cruze hatchback and sedan ranges for 2015, adding a 1.4 turbo model with a six-speed automatic transmission for the first time in South Africa. Now with a line-up of four sedan and two hatchback models, Chevrolet has given the Cruze a new face and rear styling for an elegant and classy look. The interior remains unchanged, with LS models now receiving Chevrolet’s MyLink infotainment system as standard. “The 2015 Cruze offers great ride and handling, fuel-efficient powertrains, styling and the well-integrated Chevrolet MyLink Infotainment System. The 2015 Chevrolet Cruze is a tangible demonstration of our ‘Find New Roads’ vision, which puts the customer at the forefront of everything we do through innovation, pioneering ideas and technology,” said Tim Hendon, Chevrolet brand manager at General Motors South Africa. First introduced in 2013, the turbocharged 1.4 ECOTEC petrol engine now benefits from the addition of an automatic transmission to complement the existing six-speed manual. The turbocharged 1.4T LS generates 200Nm of torque for

Price tags Adam 1.4 R189 900 Adam JAM 1.0T ecoFLEX R209 900 Adam GLAM 1.0T ecoFLEX R232 900

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

Hit th e r oa d, J a c k a smoother ride and instantaneous power delivery under all road conditions. Power remains at 103kW between 4 900 and 6 000rpm. Combined fuel consumption is 6.8 litres/100km, with corresponding CO2 emissions of 157g/km. The 1.4 turbo auto has the highest top speed of all the models in the range, topping off at 204km/h with a 0-100km/h acceleration time of 10.4 seconds. The 1.4 turbo models mated to the manual transmission are fitted with stop/start technology for additional fuel economy and lower emissions. Combined fuel consumption for the manual is 5.8 litres/100km, with CO2 emissions measured at 135g/km. This model accelerates from 0-100km/h in 9.3 seconds and has a top speed of 195km/h. Three models in the range are fitted with Chevrolet’s naturally aspirated 1.6-litre petrol engine. Performance figures for this engine are 86kW of power at 6 200rpm, 155Nm of torque at 4 000rpm. Combined fuel consumption is 6.7 litres/100km with 158g/km CO2 emissions. The 0-100km/h acceleration is 12.8 seconds, with a top speed of 185km/h for the 1.6 hatch and 190km/h for the 1.6 sedan. Where the Chevrolet Cruze Hatch has the measure of many of its rivals is in rear-passenger comfort. Owing to the five-door’s elongated roofline, the engineers have managed to free up a welcome amount of headroom to complement the already impressive rear legroom. The luggage capacity of the boot area is also relatively impressive in this segment. I have no doubt this hatchback edition to the Cruze family will do very well in South Africa, just like its previous Chev counterparts. Price tags Chevrolet Cruze 1.6 LS Chevrolet Cruze 1.4T LS

R248 300 R265 200

Better and better – Hyundai i20

Hyundai was doing very well with its original offering, so it was interesting that the second-generation Hyundai i20 hatchback seemed almost like a completely new car. ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’, came to mind—but in all fairness, the changes that have been made have only improved on the first. The new model makes its entry into South Africa in three derivatives: the i20 1.2 Motion (manual), the i20 1.4 Fluid

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

(manual), and the i20 Fluid equipped with an automatic four-speed gearbox. The new i20 has been fitted on a new platform with a wheelbase that is 45mm longer at 2 570mm— meaning the wheels are closer to each corner and there is more space for the occupants. It is a true five-seater hatchback, with a very useful boot capacity of 294 litres, which makes it a really versatile vehicle. Compared to its predecessor, the new i20 is also wider. The width has increased by 24mm (overall 1 734mm), making it one of the widest cars in its class. The overhangs at the front have been shortened to communicate the dynamic qualities of the driver experience. At the rear, the new i20 features a wrap-around, gloss-finished black C-pillar that gives the impression of a floating roofline. The feature line that runs the length of the vehicle connects at the rear, dropping subtly below the rear window to improve visibility. The lamp clusters wrap around the rear wing into the trunk lid and feature a distinctive ‘boomerang’ LED design. The European design team paid particular attention to achieving balanced proportions, with the generous shape and long hood creating a powerful stance. “The new i20 does not only look fresh from the outside, with its clean and exciting lines, but the interior reflects a feeling of luxury and excellent ergonomic design. Customers are also in for a pleasant surprise when they take this new model in our stable for a test drive: The engineers have done a fine job of creating a car with solid, sure-footed dynamics on the road, and a well-tuned, direct steering setup that gives good feedback,” says Stanley Anderson, marketing director of Hyundai Automotive South Africa. With a large cabin and a generous list of standard technologies, the new i20 offers a sophisticated and luxurious occupant environment that will appeal to a young audience. Cargo capacity has also been enhanced, making the vehicle one of the most accommodating in the segment, with a trunk volume of 294 litres and the rear seats upright. The vehicle is available with a choice of two Hyundai “Kappa” petrol power plants: a 1 197cc four-cylinder and a 1 368cc four-cylinder engine, both with four valves per cylinder and dual continuous variable valve timing. Both engines use returnless multipoint electronic fuel injection. The Kappa 1.4-litre engine in the new i20 1.4 Fluid manual and 1.4 Fluid automatic delivers maximum power of 74kW at 6 000rpm, with the torque output reaching its limit at 133Nm delivered at 3 500rpm. In the 1.2 Motion manual, maximum power of 61kW is delivered at 4 000rpm, and maximum torque of

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115Nm at 4 000rpm. The more powerful 1.4-litre engine in the i20 Fluid manual and 1.4 Fluid automatic is mated to a six-speed manual gearbox and four-speed automatic gearbox, and the new i20 1.2 Motion manual uses a five-speed manual gearbox. Included in the prices are the Hyundai warranty and roadside assistance for five years or 150 000km. A two-year or 30 000km service plan is included in the 1.2 Motion’s price, while the 1.4 Fluid derivatives include a three-year or 60 000km service plan. There are loads of other bells and whistles that have been added, for which I don’t have the space to mention here—but rest assured, this vehicle is sublime! Price tags 1.2 Motion Manual i20 1.4 Fluid Manual i20 1.4 Fluid Automatic

R184 900 R204 900 R214 900

Refreshed and face-lifted – 2015 Toyota Auris

Toyota’s new Auris has just arrived in South Africa with exterior and interior design changes as well as improved suspension and steering. A face-lifted hybrid variant will arrive in September. Being a Toyota, low running costs and peerless reliability are the cornerstones of this model, but that’s not all the newcomer has to offer. Decidedly piquant exterior styling, coupled with a revamped ‘superfine’ cabin and a driving experience that is palpably more focused than its predecessor, mean the new Auris is a head-turning car that’s just as comfortable tackling the twisties as it is taking on the might of the school run. The new Auris gets a comprehensive top ‘n’ tail to give it an arresting look up front as well as a pert new rear end. These changes give the vehicle a more hunkered down, masculine demeanour. Interestingly, the Auris is one of the lowest cars in its class, which translates into a low-slung driving position, which

makes the driver feel closer and more connected to the road. From Xs model grades upward, the exterior grille and bumper finishes get an extra flourish courtesy of glossy piano-black finishes and chrome trim. Two new exterior colours have been added: Citrus Metallic (a chartreuse hue) and Blue Metallic (royal blue in intensity). On board, the sensory quality of the cabin has been significantly raised with a redesigned, more curvaceous dashboard boasting soft-touch quality trims and surface finishes as well as a new central, tablet-inspired audiovisual display panel that comes standard on all models from the Xs grade upward. Featuring electrostatic (touch-sensitive) switchgear—a first in terms of technology advancement for Toyota—the touchscreen panel offers CD/DVD, radio (FM/AM) and Bluetooth/AUX/USB functionality as well as a host of other on-board functions including a reverse camera with guide lines. As before, the Auris is available with three powertrains: • 1 .3-litre petrol unit producing 73kW at 6 000rpm and 128Nm of torque at 3 800rpm, and propelling the Auris 1.3 from 0-100km/h in 12.6 seconds and on to a maximum speed of 175km/h. Fuel consumption is pegged at 5.8 litres/100km for the combined cycle. • 1 .6-litre petrol unit producing 97kW at 6 400rpm and 160Nm of torque at 4 400rpm, and dispatching the 0-100k/h sprint in 10 seconds. Top speed is clocked at 200km/h. The 1.6 manual consumes an average of 6.2 litres/100km in the combined cycle; the 1.6 CVT is even more economical, averaging just 6.0 litres/100km. Other spec highlights include follow-me-home headlights, shark-fin antenna, leather gear lever and steering wheel, electric power steering, air conditioner, dual front- and side airbags, remote central locking, ABS with brake assist and electronic brake-force distribution, seatbelt warning for all occupants, RDS audio four-speaker system, electric windows with Driver One-Touch, and steering switches. The X model is shod with 15-inch steel wheels; the Xi model is equipped with 16-inch alloys. The new Auris benefits from a three-year/ 100 000km warranty, and all models come standard with a five-year/90 000km service plan. The new models are also supported by the ToyotaCare Roadside Assistance Programme, which entitles customers to 24-hour roadside assistance— ensuring ultimate peace-of-mind motoring. This baby will definitely be another winner for Toyota in this segment. Price tags Auris X Auris Xi Auris Xs Auris Xr Auris Xr CVT

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Hit th e r oa d, J a c k

The new Auris is a head-turning car that’s just as comfortable tackling the twisties as it is taking on the might of the school run

R223 700 R249 100 R259 800 R287 700 R301 700

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

STORE LISTING WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4629 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (021) 982-2000 capegate@capeunionmart.co.za

Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE (041) 363-1504 greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za Hemingways Shopping Centre, East London (043) 726-0908 hemingways@capeunionmart.co.za Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE (041) 368-7442 walmer@capeunionmart.co.za Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za

Secunda Mall (017) 634-7921 secunda@capeunionmart.co.za NORTH WEST STORES Brits Mall (012) 250-1909 brits@capeunionmart.co.za Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (018) 293-1788 mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za

Irene Village Mall (012) 662-1133 irene@capeunionmart.co.za Killarney Mall (011) 646-7745 killarney@capeunionmart.co.za Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 548-9811 kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za Mall@Reds, Centurion (012) 656-0182 redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za Menlyn Park (012) 368-1015 menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za

Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg KWAZULU-NATAL STORES (014) 537-3651 Boardwalk Inkwazi Shopping Centre, Nicolway Bryanston waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay (011) 706-7573 Cavendish Square, Claremont (035) 789-0321 nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 674-2148 boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za LIMPOPO STORES cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Northgate Shopping Centre Lephalale Mall Galleria Mall, Durban (011) 794-1022 (014) 763-1278 Constantia Village (031) 904-2318 northgate@capeunionmart.co.za lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 794-0632 galleria@capeunionmart.co.za constantia@capeunionmart.co.za OR Tambo International Airport Mall of the North, Polokwane Gateway World, Durban (011) 390-3245 (015) 265-1067 Gardens Centre (031) 566-5111 ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 461-9678 gateway@capeunionmart.co.za gardens@capeunionmart.co.za Rosebank Mall La Lucia Mall (011) 442-1959 GAUTENG STORES Mill Square, Stellenbosch (031) 562-0523 rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria (021) 886-4645stellenbosch@ Lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 991-3171 capeunionmart.co.za Sandton City atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (011) 884-9771 Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester (033) 342-0152 sandton@capeunionmart.co.za Bedford Centre, Johannesburg (023) 347-1484 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 615-3097 worcester@capeunionmart.co.za The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene bedford@capeunionmart.co.za The Pavilion, Westville (011) 436-1300 Paarl Mall (031) 265-1666 theglen@capeunionmart.co.za Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria (021) 863-4138 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 460-5511 paarl@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall, Pretoria brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za Watercrest Mall, Durban (012) 807-0642 Somerset Mall (031) 763-1489 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za Mall@Carnival, Brakpan (021) 852-7120 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 915-0470 somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za (016) 981-5186 Tygervalley Shopping Centre vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za Centurion Mall (021) 914-1441 NORTHERN CAPE STORES (012) 663-4111 tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria centurion@capeunionmart.co.za Kimberley (012) 549-4203 V&A Waterfront Quay Four (053) 832-3846 wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort (021) 425-4559 diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 675-0036 quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za Kalahari Mall, Upington (012) 997-6960 V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari (054) 331-3631 woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za Cradlestone, Krugersdorp (021) 419-0020 kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 662-1530 waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za Kathu Village Mall BOTSWANA STORES West Coast Mall, Vredenburg Francistown, Pick n Pay Centre (053) 723-2736 Cresta Shopping Centre (022) 713-4113 00267-241-0398 kathu@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 478-1913 weskus@capeunionmart.co.za francistown@capeunionmart.co.za cresta@capeunionmart.co.za Gamecity Lifestyle Shopping Centre FREE STATE STORES Eastgate Adventure Centre Gaborone Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein GARDEN ROUTE (011) 622-8788 00267-391-0948 (051) 430-0230 egac@capeunionmart.co.za Garden Route Mall, George gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 887-0048 East Rand Mall, Boksburg Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 826-2408 00267-370-0040 (051) 444-6060 eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za Knysna Mall riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 382-4653 Forest Hill City, Centurion Dihlabeng Mall, Bethlehem knysna@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 668-1030 NAMIBIA STORES (058) 303-1372 foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay Maerua Mall, Windhoek dihlabeng@capeunionmart.co.za (044) 695-2486 00264-612-20424 Fourways Mall mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 465-9824 MPUMALANGA STORES fourways@capeunionmart.co.za The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay The Grove Mall of Namibia Highveld Mall, Emalahleni (044) 533-4030 00264-612-53161 (013) 692-4018 Greenstone Shopping Centre marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za highveld@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 609-0002 greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;langa Mall, Nelspruit OUTLET STORES (013) 742-2281 Heidelberg Mall EASTERN CAPE STORES Access Park, Cape Town ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za (016) 341-2031 Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth (021) 674-6398 heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za (021) 886-5262 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za Middelburg Mall baywest@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 244-1040 Hyde Park Corner Woodmead Value Mart, middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 325-5038 Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay Johannesburg hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za (042) 293-0005 (011) 656-0750 Riverside Mall, Nelspruit fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 757-0338 nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

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NEVER BLOW ANOTHER MAN’S

Howe to tr a vel

The last laugh

DIDGE EVERY TOURIST SOUVENIR TELLS A STORY, WRITES GRAHAM HOWE

n elder of the Wiradjuri clan of central New South Wales in Australia gave me a magnificent natural didge carved out of the branch of a bluegum tree. He insisted: “No woman must ever touch your didge. Not even your wife.” “You don’t know my wife. I can’t tell her that,” I said. I pleaded, “This didge is going home with me to South Africa. Maybe the taboo only applies in Australia.” After all, in South Africa men and women alike blow the vuvuzela, our very own cultural version of the didgeridoo (and a secret cultural weapon at sports events). He was adamant: “A didgeridoo is a man thing—and it’ll bring a heap of bad luck if any woman does get hold of it anywhere, anytime. It will offend the spirits that sit at the front of the didgeridoo. The spirits will protect you if you respect the old ways.” Every didgeridoo tells a story for Brian “Jub” Freeman, the mystical artist who learnt the art of carving from his elders. When he finds a fallen branch or log on a walkabout on traditional Wiradjuri land, he says he senses the energy and spirits it contains, the deep sense of belonging to the land going back to the dreamtime. He left the raw bark untouched so the didgeridoo would stay true to the spirits he sensed in the shape and feel of the wood. And now he’s passed this sacred object on to me, making me the custodian. And I thought it was just a didgeridoo. A novice, I tried to breathe life into the didge, attempting to get the circular

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breathing going which makes that deep primeval sound that seems to resound forever over the centuries. You have to wrap your lips around the waxed end and blow until you’re blue in the face. A didgeridoo is a magical thing the moment those spirits start singing. Spectral painted figures danced along the dotted sides of mine. I’d heard a similar dreamtime story years earlier from another of the world’s first nations. On a walk in the woods with a Kwakiutl master carver on Vancouver Island in Canada, Willy Seaweed told me how he had to find the right tree to carve his clan’s sacred creation motifs into a new totem pole. Not any old tree—THE tree. We ran out of time to find the mystical tree, so I returned from that trip with a magnificent Inuit hat (fits like a tea cosy) and slippers. He didn’t give me a totem pole to ship home. In case you were wondering, I won my didgeridoo in a business-card draw at the annual Australian Tourism Exchange down under. It’s the first time I’ve won anything since I was awarded first prize for diligence in Standard One back in primary school. So I wasn’t about to give back my prized didge in the interests of gender equality. But I had to take a sacred oath that no woman would ever play it. I felt slightly ridiculous, boarding the plane home with a two-metre-long, wrapped didge slung over my shoulder like a giant rocket launcher. I realised how visitors to South Africa feel when they fly home, clutching rows of giant wooden giraffes in the cabin. Coming through

customs in Joburg, an officer stopped me to inspect the raw bark on my didge, suspecting I was smuggling an alien eucalyptus into the country. “A woman shouldn’t touch it,” I warned her. “The aboriginal artist who made it told me it brings bad luck.” “Eish!” she said superstitiously, giving me right of way. “Why don’t you get a vuvuzela instead? It’s easier to carry— and anyone can play it.” Collecting tourist souvenirs is not for the faint of heart. My new didge joined a giant shisha (hookah) from Egypt which gets used at occasional parties; weird and wonderful hats from Tibet to Thailand which make for a great Mad Hatter’s tea party; prayer bowls and prayer wheels from the East; puppets from Rajasthan; carvings and pots from across Africa; and exotic kilims (carpets) from the Himalayas and Laos, India and Turkey which clutter our lounge after a life of travel. And a cupboard of tourist T-shirts that never fit after the first wash, made for seriously small people. Any offers? I treasure the first tourist souvenir I acquired when I was 10 years old: a colourful wooden hookah bought in the famous covered bazaar in Istanbul. Back from Turkey, I wrote a composition on how we had spent our summer holidays. When I read out my report, called “My dad bought me a hookah”, the startled teacher thought I’d said “hooker”. A few years later, I had my first illicit schoolboy smoke out of that hookah. Today it sits on the shelf in my study. Every didge and hookah tells a story.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

THE LAST WORD

We find out what’s cooking with culinary genius and MasterChef SA judge,

Pete Goffe-Wood

What are the top destinations on your ‘bucket list’ of places to which you’d like to travel? Mexico, Las Vegas, Argentina. Which favourite places have you already ticked off your bucket list? Hanoi, Budapest, Moscow. What is the weirdest food or drink you have ever tried? Snake wine in Hanoi. It’s more like witblitz, but there’s a whole poisonous snake preserved in the liquor. Without doubt the nastiest thing I’ve ever tasted. Are you an adrenaline junkie? Ever tried shark-cage diving, bungee jumping, parachuting, abseiling? One of the scariest and most liberating experiences of my life was bungee jumping off the bridge at Vic Falls. I’m actually scared of heights, and accepted a very vague invitation to jump while I was consulting for the Victoria Falls Hotel. It wasn’t an offer I thought was serious, but it turned out to be just that. Standing on the precipice, I looked down into what seemed like a bottomless gorge and thought to myself: There’s no way in hell I’m going to willingly leap off this bridge! But the alternative of wimping out would’ve been too embarrassing. So when the guide counted me down, I leapt into the abyss and for 10—seemingly endless—seconds I was flying. I’ve never felt so alive! Would I do it again? Not a chance! Braai or sushi? Unquestionably braai—any excuse to make a fire. What is the most memorable experience you have had with wildlife? While working on the Zambezi Queen, a floating hotel on the Chobe River,

The Intrepid Explorer issue 11

I awoke one morning to the most glorious sunrise, and less than 10 metres from my balcony was a herd of about 80 elephants drinking and bathing in the shallow river. It was such an intimate moment that I didn’t even reach for my camera; no picture could’ve captured the magnificent scene unfolding before me, so I just sat there, quiet and reverent, for almost an hour. If you were stuck on a desert island, would you know how to make a fire without matches, and how to catch dinner? I’ve seen enough survival TV programmes to know the theory. Whether or not I could put it all into practice remains to be seen! What is your signature dish you serve your friends? I like to cook whatever I find at the butcher’s or the market on the day— although every year for Christmas I do like to smoke a turkey on the Weber. If it were up to you, what should be done to the people running the rhino horn trade? I’d strip them of everything—clothes, shoes, weapons, the works—and then sentence them to survive in the wild. Let them get a sense of what it feels like to be truly defenceless, at the bottom of the food chain. What are your pet hates in people? I hate people who constantly name-drop. If you were really so cool and hip, we’d know. Continually having to reference all the people you may (or may not) know just makes you look desperate to belong somewhere you clearly don’t. Camping or luxury lodge? I want to say camping and appear all rugged and manly—but truth be told, I’d rather be relaxing in the lap of luxury: sitting on a balcony overlooking a waterhole while

someone hands me a chilled glass of something and calls me to the table when dinner around the fire is ready. Being a judge on MasterChef South Africa must be a rewarding experience. Can you share some behind-the-scenes titbits? The craziest experience happened in Season 1, while we were shooting boot camp in the old bus terminus just below the Nelson Mandela Bridge in downtown Joburg. We were just setting up a shot to taste the next contestant’s leek and potato soup when a pigeon in the rafters above crapped in the bowl! We didn’t catch it on camera, so we weren’t able to reference it—but we still had to taste the soup. I had to go first, and I could see the bird droppings, so I avoided it. But before my fellow judges could taste, I stirred up the soup and left them to it! As a role model yourself, who is your inspiration? I recently met Riaan Manser (now I’m name-dropping!). I’ve always been in awe of solitary explorers: The sheer force of will required to achieve some of things they do has been inspirational. I imagined they’d be aloof loners, but Riaan is the friendliest, most gregarious guy you’ll ever meet. After we met, I was actually deeper in awe of him. What can we expect from Pete Goffe-Wood in the near future? I embarked on a new venture with Celebrity MasterChef SA winner and renowned stand-up comedian, Chris Forrest, at this year’s National Arts Festival in Grahamstown. Our cooking comedy show, titled Don’t Burn Your Sausage, examines the intertwined relationship between food and sex. We’re now taking the show on the road and will be doing theatre runs in Joburg, Durban and Cape Town in the last quarter of the year.

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