The Intrepid Explorer Summer 2016/2017 by The Intrepid Explorer

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› LIVING TRADITIONS – Kingsley Holgate explores cultural practices of Ethiopian tribes › ADVENTURE ON A BUDGET – 5 reasons to backpack through India › A WALK THROUGH TIME – Into the ruins of the once-great Lycia › VIEW FROM THE TRACKS – All aboard the Trans-Siberian Express › GREY GHOST OF THE HIMALAYA – In search of the elusive snow leopard

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CONTENTS 10 06 FOREWORD

Andre Labuschaigne, Cape Union Mart CEO

EDITOR’S NOTE

Let’s start over

COMPETITION Win a weekend getaway to Mpongo Private Game Reserve in the malariafree Eastern Cape!

DOING IT FOR THE KIDS Lee den Hond took on an epic journey of her own to change the life journey of others

12 18 LIVING TRADITIONS Kingsley Holgate ventures out on an expedition to document the cultural practices of disappearing African tribes in Ethiopia

24 UNDER THE SEA The waters surrounding the tiny island of Sakatia in northwest Madagascar offer some of the best—and most bizarre—diving in the world, writes Fiona McIntosh

36 A WALK THROUGH TIME Matthew Holt takes a hike into the ruins of the once great Lycia

48 THE VIEW FROM THE TRACKS It had long been Marc Dinkelmann’s dream to take the Trans-Siberian Railway from Russia, through Mongolia and on to Beijing

62 ADVENTURE ON A BUDGET Stephanie Roche shares five reasons you should go backpacking through India

80 ON THE WILD SIDE

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

News from the outdoors

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S UM M ER 2016/2017 ED IT ION

ON THE GREAT RIVER ROAD Graham Howe follows the blues and jazz notes from New Orleans, all along the mighty Mississippi

42 GREY GHOST OF THE MOUNTAINS Fiona Ayerst travels to the Indian Himalaya to search for the mysterious, majestic (and elusive) snow leopard

A ROAD LESS TRAVELLED Bryony McCormick goes on a seven-day mountain-biking expedition covering the entire Transkei coastline—in the pursuit of true happiness

88 CHECKED OUT Our editor shares a favourite travel destination that should not be missed

90 HIT THE ROAD, JACK! The Big 5—catch a sighting of the latest motor vehicles on our roads

94 CAPE UNION MART STORE LISTINGS 95 ‘TIS THE SEASON TO BE ACTIVE

LIFE THROUGH THE LENS

The sun’s out and the summer holidays are finally upon us—plenty of time to get fit while exploring our beautiful country, writes Nick Dall

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we see the world through Em Gatland’s eyes

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THE LAST LAUGH

Graham Howe stops for a bite in Marrakesh on his grand tour of the imperial cities of Morocco

THE LAST WORD

We chat with South African supermodel-turned-photographer, Josie Borain

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

FO R E WO RD

Greetings,

ummer is firmly upon us and the adventure season is in full swing. It seems only right that we should dedicate this edition of The Intrepid Explorer to adventure. South Africans are renowned for their sense of adventure and their love for the outdoors. We believe everyone should have the opportunity to get out there, and Stephanie Roche’s India article is the perfect guide to travelling on a shoestring budget— let’s face it, who isn’t on a budget at the moment? Adventurers come in all manner of people, and while we celebrate their diverse interests and challenges, we know the one common thread between them is their tenacity. This dogged pursuit of their dreams and goals is our inspiration. At Cape Union Mart, we relate to this mindset, and it’s this strong sense of purpose to improve lives that underpins our culture. We love the article on Lee den Hond, whose journey started with her desire to challenge herself alone and has turned toward improving the lives of many children. She has achieved so much. We also continue to celebrate the adventures of Kingsley Holgate, who has been on countless missions to better the lives of people in Africa. He’s on a new assignment to record the cultural practices of disappearing African tribes—it will certainly become an essential body of work, and an interesting read. Adventurers know that the road takes them to unexpected places. This edition delves into a host of interesting spaces and places for you to dream about and work toward visiting. We continue to celebrate this adventure called Life, and wish you well on your own explorations. Relish and celebrate each moment—no matter where the journey takes you.

Yours in adventure,

Andre Labuschaigne Chief Executive Officer Cape Union Mart

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E D ITO R ’ S N O TE

LET’S

START OVER

oodbye and good riddance to 2016! Annus horribilis is a Latin phrase meaning “horrible year”. It’s certainly an apt description of the year gone by. On a personal front—bar the first birthday of my youngest child, a gorgeous little girl named Maya—2016 has certainly been the most challenging of all the years I’ve had on dear Planet Earth: an emotional roller coaster of dizzying ups and downs on all sides, and then ricocheting too. On the economic front, we had an extremely tough 12-month period, and a few minister-of-finance changes didn’t help us early on, with problems reverberating into all nooks and crannies of government and industry. Media and travel, in particular, have suffered. Then add into the bowl of an already horribilis concoction, one Brexit tot and a double serving of Trump, and we really started feeling our stomachs churn. But it’s not all doom and gloom. We’ve made it through another year, albeit with a few more wrinkles and bruises. We’re the lucky ones, those of us who still have our health and family; I know of many who lost loved ones in 2016 (the world mourns some major musicians like David Bowie and Prince). We will live to fight another day. For those of you who are fortunate enough to have a little bit of time off during the festive season, revel in it and soak up each minute. Whether you choose to relax and do as little as possible, or decide to get out into nature, or finally jump off that bungee bridge, or launch yourself out of a plane, or simply hug a baobab out in the bush (yes, I do enjoy doing that)—now is the time. Don’t hesitate. Go out there and enjoy life, spend quality time

with your family and closest friends. Life is so precious, and during the course of a frenetic year we may forget it’s the little things that are our biggest treasures. So I leave you, our incredibly supportive readers and advertisers, with a note of thanks for always being there for The Intrepid Explorer. It’s been a long, tough year for us all— time to take a load off, however intrepid (or not) you feel. Here’s to 2017, and the beginning of a new chapter. Until next time, live the life of adventure!

Robbie Stammers Publishing Editor

PS: Don’t forget to like us on Facebook to get access to loads of fresh content, and download the full digital version of this edition with many extras FOR FREE via Google Play and Apple’s App Store.

Congratulations to the winners of our last edition’s competitions! Linda Versfeld from Krugersdorp wins the two-night Great Karoo adventure at Mount Camdeboo Private Game Reserve in the Cederberg, worth R14 000! Robert Gunning from Diep River is the lucky winner of the three-night safari getaway to Davison’s Camp in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park, worth R27 000!

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Explorer The Intrepid

C O N T RIBUTORS

Live the life of Adventure

Publishing Editor ROBBIE STAMMERS robbie@intrepidexplorer.co.za Art Director STACEY STORBECK NEL stacey@insightspublishing.co.za Chief Sub-Editor TANIA GRIFFIN tania@insightspublishing.co.za Head of Advertising Sales KEITH HILL keith@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Manager KYLE VILLET kyle@intrepidexplorer.co.za Advertising Sales Executive PETER SAVAGE-REID Office Manager SUSAN BALL susan@insightspublishing.co.za Financial Manager SARAH BULUMA sarah@intrepidexplorer.co.za Social Media Platforms TACITA MCEVOY from SocialMediaNow tacita@socialmedianow.com Editorial Contributors Kingsley Holgate, Fiona McIntosh, Graham Howe, Matthew Holt, Fiona Ayerst, Marc Dinkelmann, Bryony McCormick, Stephanie Roche, Nick Dall, Angus Begg, Josie Borain Photography Cover: Chris Bertish by Craig Kolesky, Kingsley Holgate by Morné van Zyl, Ralph Fiennes by Chris Winter, Lewis Pugh by Kelvin Trautman, Lee Den Hond, Mike Horn Shaen Adey, Jacques Vieira, Graham Howe, Matthew Holt, Mandy Ramsden, Fiona Ayerst, Marc Dinkelmann, Dave Fisher, Yael Benjamin, Em Gatland, Leigh Page, Alphonse Island, Adobe Stock Cape Union Mart www.capeunionmart.co.za Marketing Manager: Odile Hufkie Printer RSA Litho Distribution Cape Union Mart stores On The Dot Distribution Media Support Services

PUBLISHED BY

Managing Director: Robbie Stammers Physical address: 174A Main Road, Claremont, 7700, Cape Town Postal address: PO Box 23692, Claremont, 7735 Telephone: +27 (0) 21 683 0005 Websites: www.intrepidexplorer.co.za www.insightspublishing.co.za No article or any part of any article may be reproduced without the prior written consent of the publisher. The information provided and opinions expressed in this publication are provided in good faith, but do not necessarily represent the opinions of Cape Union Mart (PTY) Ltd, Insights Publishing or the editor. Neither this magazine, the publisher or Cape Union Mart can be held legally liable in any way for damages of any kind whatsoever arising directly or indirectly from any facts or information provided or omitted in these pages, or from any statements made or withheld by this publication.

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› Marc Dinkelmann is an investment banker by trade who, after being diagnosed and treated for a brain tumour, decided to fulfil his life-long dream of travelling the world. Having previously trekked through the Himalayas and Andes, which fuelled the travel bug, he started his world trip in Russia and has been working his way around the globe ever since. Marc aims to encourage other people to get out there and discover the blue ball in the universe we call our home. › Humanitarian, explorer

and Royal Geographical Society Fellow, Kingsley Holgate has been described as “the most travelled man in Africa”, and models himself on Dr David Livingstone—often following in this great man’s footsteps through the continent. With the Kingsley Holgate Foundation, he aims to “save and improve lives through adventure” by staging humanitarian expeditions to needy areas. › Fiona Ayerst has been taking her camera below the surface for 10 years. She lives for animals, particularly those of the unknown and mysterious depths of our oceans. And when she’s not behind the lens, Fiona writes regularly for various publications and runs an internship programme for photographers and journalists in Mossel Bay and Mozambique.

› After several years of corporate work, Em Gatland knew she had to do something she loved. Travelling through Morocco in 2009, she picked up a camera and recognised her calling to tell a story through her lens. Em’s passion for the outdoors means she isn’t afraid of a little dirt and can hone her skills in nature and capture moments off the beaten track.

› Nick Dall is a freelance writer who has lived and fished all over the world— postings include Italy, Argentina, Bolivia and Vietnam, but he’s back in Cape Town rediscovering the trout streams and dams of his youth. Nick’s young daughter and his mortgage also suggest he’s finally settled down. › Graham Howe is one of South Africa’s most experienced lifestyle journalists; he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications for more than 25 years. When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent, and for the weekly travel show on SAfm. › Matthew Holt is a self-confessed list-ticker. He’s climbed the seven continental summits, skied the last degree to both Poles and, so far, climbed more than 30 of the world’s 50 most prominent peaks. He’s also chanced his luck at bog snorkelling, cheese rolling, wife carrying and bull running. A freelance writer based in Cape Town, Matthew is the author of two books: The Miles High Club and Life’s Rich Tapestry. › Fiona McIntosh, a

freelance photojournalist, and the editor of Nightjar Travel magazine, has an enviable life of travelling and adventuring all in the name of work. When not at her desk, she can be found out on Table Mountain hiking, rock climbing or enjoying a sundowner. She’s skied to the North and South Pole, stomped up a few continental peaks and dived the world’s most iconic dive sites. Fiona is the author of numerous books on the Indian Ocean Islands, hiking, scuba diving, mountain biking and other adventures.

› Bryony McCormick is a

freelance writer and editor from Cape Town with a passion for travel, adventure sports and the outdoors. Her say-yes-nowand-think-about-it-later approach to living has led her to some far-off corners of the world, up treacherously high mountains, through wild countries and along pristine coastlines. Bryony likes animals, her boyfriend, fresh bread covered in butter, and books. Her dream home is a caravan.

› Stephanie Roche is a medical student who uses her babysitting-earned cash to travel the world. She’s been to Europe, Australia, India and Vietnam, and is currently backpacking in Cambodia. Stephanie captures the story behind the photography of her fellow med student and adventurer, Yael Benjamin, who has just returned from Nepal where she worked in a rural hospital, trekked in the Himalayas and backpacked around the country.

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World

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Africa

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Make every step an

ADVENTURE

L EE D EN H O N D

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L EE D EN H O ND

Doing kids IT FOR THE

Lee den Hond took on an epic journey of her own to change the life journey of others—and she’s just getting started

This endurance athlete has never shied away from a challenge. When she decided to climb Mount Everest, she was motivated to reach the top of the world’s highest peak not only by her own grit and determination but by her vision to build a children’s centre.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

en Hond went on not only to become the third South African woman to summit Everest, but is today the founder of the Field of Dreams Children’s Centre. “Initially, I planned to hike to Base Camp, then I thought, ‘Why just Base Camp? Why not the top?’.” None of the South African guiding companies offered trips to Everest in 2013, so she contacted Canadian expedition company, Peak Freaks—known not only for its 100% safety record but also its willingness to allow climbing novices to have a bash. Den Hond spent a week in the Alps, learning how to use crampons and other high-altitude skills. It was some preparation, but she had no idea what she was letting herself in for. “Everest was a gift,” she acknowledges, “but I totally underestimated what it would entail. The biggest challenge was the cold. I kept having to say to myself: ‘Lee, the cold mustn’t manage you—you must manage the cold.’” She continues, “And I didn’t have nearly as much help as I’d imagined I would.

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I’d paid an extra $5 000 for a personal Sherpa whom I had hoped would essentially be my personal guide. But I soon realised this was an unrealistic expectation. His English was exceptionally poor, and he was unable to offer me any training. There’s one rope on the south side of the mountain which every climber uses to get up and down. You climb Everest on your own, clipping into the fixed line for safety. I carried my own personal gear, my own oxygen and my own food between camps, with very little support from my personal Sherpa.” Fortunately, inspiration and strength came from veteran Peak Freaks lead guide, Marty Schmidt. This, coupled with Den Hond’s innate determination and self-belief that nothing would stand in her way, carried her through all the challenges. On Sunday, 19 May 2013, she stood on the summit of Everest, the highest point on Earth. “Summit day was unbelievably tough,” she concedes. “It’s only 848 metres from Camp 4 to the summit, but it took me 14 hours up and another nine hours to get back to camp. I was exhausted. The commitment to reach the top came from knowing that so many South Africans were supporting me and essentially climbing the mountain with me.”

The toughest part of all was undoubtedly holding on to her vision, despite extremely trying circumstances. “Each day I was reminded that I was a complete novice. My body had never experienced these heights, and I really struggled to adjust to the altitude. And I was cold! The temperatures were exceptionally low. On the first night at Base Camp, temperatures dropped to minus 21 degrees Celsius,” Den Hond relates. Raising funds for her chosen charity, the Carte Blanche Making a Difference Trust—which offers help to children heading up their households—was a major motivating factor that carried her

PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM TOP LEFT: Making our way from Camp 1 to Camp 2; Reaching the top of the world after 14 and a half hours; The most dangerous part of the climb—Khumbu Ice Fall; Magnificent prayer flags strewn on the summit THIS PAGE: The most famous part of the climb, the Hilary Step—also known as the Everest Traffic Jam OPPOSITE PAGE: In my red down suit— the greatest challenge here was the extreme feeling of claustrophobia behind the oxygen mask

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L EE D EN H O ND

The greatest Gift of Everest has been taking away the pure belief that nothing is impossible if you truly believe in it. The gift of being able to share my story with children and adults, and to inspire them to ‘climb their own Everest’... to overcome their own personal challenges. through. “After meeting a 13-year-old boy taking care of his 8-year-old sister, I decided to give something back to the Schaumburg community,” she explains. “Several special children had signed their names on the South African flag that I held proudly on the summit, so that was a huge moment for me.” There were other highlights, too, including the relationships she formed with her fellow climbers—particularly Schmidt, who taught and trained her over the course of the climb. “But the greatest Gift of Everest has been taking away the pure belief that nothing is impossible if you truly believe in it,” Den Hond insists. “The gift of being able to share my story with children and adults,

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and to inspire them to ‘climb their own Everest’—to overcome their own personal challenges.” The dangers of high-altitude mountaineering were all too apparent. More than 600 climbers summited Everest in 2013, but there were nine deaths. Then, two months after Den Hond and Schmidt had stood on the top of the world, there was personal tragedy when he and his son Denali were killed in an avalanche on K2. “I feel privileged to have spent so much time with Marty. He was a great man who taught me all the skills required on the mountain. His incredible attitude and his respect for the mountains were awe-inspiring.” Den Hond now has her sights set on another gruelling challenge, with the goal

of making the Field of Dreams mobile clinic a permanent facility. “The community faces a number of health challenges, and mostly children between the ages of birth to 12 years are affected,” she explains. “Most children who are brought to the mobile clinic suffer from conditions related to malnutrition, such as scabies, skin problems and vitamin deficiency. Many of these children have never received their scheduled immunisations or have skipped a few vaccinations, which predisposes them to secondary infections and illnesses. Many children come in with burn wounds, especially in winter, as a result of lack of supervision from parents and the use of coal stoves. Most of them are suffering from infestations of worms (ringworms and tapeworms) due to poor living conditions. We’ve also had a few cases of poisoning (paraffin or rat poisoning), and diarrhoea and vomiting. Over and above these conditions, there are cases of minor ailments like flu, stomach aches, toothache. It’s difficult for these children to receive help from hospitals due to lack of proper documentation (birth certificates), which makes the mobile clinic so valuable to this community.” She adds that the clinic is able to be operational only once a week, but she’s

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L E E D EN H O N D

LEFT TO RIGHT: The moment I had dreamt of for so long—holding the signed South African flag on the summit of Mt Everest; Three weeks before our departure, we erected our own prayer flag structure with the children from the Schaumburg community

determined to open a permanent and sustainable healthcare clinic that will go a long way in managing present healthrelated problems. “A permanent clinic would mean there’d be an immediate response to treatable health conditions before they complicate. There will be easy access to healthcare at a time convenient to the community. Medical emergencies will be immediately seen to, stabilised and managed and/or referred to other facilities, thus saving lives. There will be continuous support to the parents in as far as health education is concerned, and treatable and preventable illnesses will

INSIDE THE FIELD OF DREAMS

be easily managed and treated if there is access to the clinic every day.” With this goal in mind, in April 2017 Den Hond will once again carry the South African flag, but this time battling temperatures of 50°C as she takes on “the toughest foot race on Earth”. Marathon Des Sables is a 251-kilometre, six-day ultra race through the Sahara Desert—a notoriously inhospitable environment. She will compete against elements including relentless heat, unforgiving sand dunes, and white-hot salt plains to raise awareness and funds to build the much-needed permanent clinic.

is increasing as one-time farm labourers are being forced off A registered non-governmental uncultivated farms. The living standards of many people in the organisation situated near area have dropped, and little has Hartbeespoort, Field of Dreams been done about the allocation helps communities affected by of land for informal housing. extreme poverty, neglect, “The Schaumburg ignorance, apathy and despair. community consists of about Social problems such as 1 200 shacks, housing on alcoholism, abuse, domestic average six people each, so violence and incest are rife. the estimated population of The main employment this area is about 7 000 opportunities are still on farms, residents,” explains Den Hond. part-time or casual labour— and although new opportunities “Most of the inhabitants are migrant labourers or people are arising through ongoing development, many inhabitants who were displaced from neighbouring countries, and of the area are still seasonal or migrant workers. Overcrowding are therefore not eligible for

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“I will be taking the same South African flag signed by the children of the community. This flag was with me standing on top of Everest, and I plan to take it across the finish line in the Sahara Desert,” she says. “I believe that it symbolises the hopes and dreams of children in South Africa who are in desperate need of support, nurturing and medical care.” Be part of this epic journey and join Lee den Hond in achieving her vision by making a donation. All contributions, however small, help the Field of Dreams Foundation’s work to continue. See www.fieldofdreamsfoundation. org.za for further details.

government grants. There are only two boreholes providing water for this area, and there are hand pumps that enable residents to access water. There are no fixed medical or childcare facilities, and a mobile clinic visits the area once a month. The nearest clinic is 20 kilometres away at Hekpoort or Broederstroom, and the nearest hospital is in Brits, which is 50km away. This is a very underserviced area. The families are characterised by granny-headed families, single parents or child-headed families, because parents are deceased or working far away from their

homes, leaving children with extended family members.” The Field of Dreams Children’s Centre was Den Hond’s vision for the children of the Schaumburg community, built with the funds raised from her Mt Everest climb. The centre officially opened its doors on 5 December 2015. It provides a safe, learner-friendly space or children and adults, and includes a gardening and sewing project, a soccer pitch where children can play, a toy and book library, as well as a mobile clinic that includes TB workshops and testing.

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Living Traditions

Kingsley Holgate ventures out on an expedition to document the cultural practices of disappearing tribes in Ethiopia

The three expedition Landies are loaded up with humanitarian supplies, a Zulu calabash of water from the Cradle of Humankind, a Scroll of Peace and Goodwill in support of malaria prevention, and Elephant Art Project materials for kids. A new adventure is about to begin.

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e’re off to the sound of marimbas and drumbeats from Lesedi Cultural Village outside Johannesburg. Once again we’ll need the Zen of Travel to be with us as we point the three Kingsley Holgate Foundation expedition Land Rovers toward a place called Chew Bahir, the Great Ocean of Salt, situated in the cultural kaleidoscope of southern Ethiopia—close to the borders with unsettled South Sudan and Somalia on the Horn of Africa.

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KIN GS L EY H O L GATE

Here cattle wars are a way of life; AK47s casually swing over the shoulders of tribesmen protecting their wealth. Scarifications, tribal initiations, leather skirts adorned with cowry shells, clay lip plates and red ochre make ‘living traditions’ alive and well here in one of Africa’s last great frontiers of real adventure. Having spent much of a lifetime adventuring in every country on this continent, including her island states, we are keenly aware of the rapidly changing face of Mama Afrika. Our expedition is part of a series of once-off journeys called Africa’s Living Traditions: to document, record, research, photograph and participate in its richly colourful traditional cultural practices, many of which are fast disappearing. But our objective is also to cross the giant saltpans of Ethiopia’s Lake Chew Bahir

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KIN G SL EY H O LG ATE

in land yachts—the same contraptions we used a few decades ago in another world-first expedition to circumnavigate the Makgadikgadi Pans in Botswana. As with all Kingsley Holgate Foundation expeditions, we’ll use this epic Cape Union Mart–supported journey to improve and save lives through adventure; malaria is rife in the wet season and many die— most villages are just too far away from any healthcare, but their lives can be saved by a simple mosquito net. We load up the Land Rovers with bales of long-lasting insecticide-treated bed nets along with Mashozi’s Rite to Sight spectacles for the poor-sighted. Sight is something so easily taken for granted. A simple pair of spectacles, and with it the gift of better sight, provides instant gratification. So often on expedition we come across livestock herders with their goats, camels, sheep and cattle; in hot desert climates, they all share the same contaminated waterhole. Waterborne diseases such as diarrhoea and cholera kill about 1.5 million people per year. The expedition distributes LifeStraws, portable filters that provide safe drinking water for one person for a year. It’s with great anticipation that the team arrives in Samburu-land in Kenya’s Northern Frontier District (North Eastern Province), marking the true beginning of our Living Traditions Expedition. We’ve reached the sacred mountain of Sepache with our old friend, the warrior captain

Dipa. It’s a feast of colour: Morane age-set warriors, red-ochred bodies and beadwork with all the hues of the rainbow. A friend of Dipa’s is getting married and we’re invited to the traditional ceremony: There’s the slaughter of animals, drinking of fresh blood from a goat’s neck, and at sunset the singing and dancing reach a crescendo with the Morane leaping into the sky and the women ululating. As we leave, the bride gets ushered off to be circumcised on her wedding night. Life on expedition is never dull, and Africa is all good and all bad at the same time.

THIS PAGE, BELOW: The Elephant Art Project educates children on elephant conservation in Africa THIS PAGE, BOTTOM LEFT: We receive a blessing from the Samburu elders THIS PAGE, BOTTOM RIGHT: The team distributed insecticide-treated anti-malaria mosquito nets to rural villagers, specifically mothers of children under the age of 5 OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Coloured with fresh red ochre, a Morane bridegroom and best man prepare for a traditional wedding ceremony; In addition to handing out mosquito nets, the team also spreads information about malaria-prevention practices

PREVIOUS SPREAD: THIS PAGE: OPPOSITE PAGE:

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KIN GS L EY H O L GATE

We’ve arrived on the third day of the fierce Mursi tribe’s donga stick-fighting ceremony with long sticks up to 2.5 metres in length. The ‘prize’ for which the warriors will be fighting is a beautiful Mursi girl All our expeditions carry a Scroll of Peace and Goodwill. These have been endorsed by Nobel laureates Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Emeritus Desmond Tutu, ambassadors, presidents, health workers, community leaders, elders and fellow travellers. The next morning, Samburu mamas endorse the Living Traditions scroll with red-ochred handprints as a sign of appreciation for the Rite to Sight and malaria work we’ve done in the village. The Samburu elders give us a blessing. Dipa grabs his AK and, with a gang of Samburu Morane, jumps into his old green Defender to escort us north through the ‘badlands’ toward the Omo Delta. These age-set warriors have a thorough knowledge of the area and have even been known to hunt down Al-Shabaab operatives and hand them over to the military. We’re travelling through the Wild Northern Frontier District—that’s what it was called in the old days, and it’s still a bit like that today: wild-looking nomadic tribes; cattle and livestock wars; dramatic and sometimes empty landscapes where you can so easily die of thirst; too many old rifles and Kalashnikovs traded from South Sudan and Ethiopia, and bought with cattle and camels.

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At a middle-of-nowhere fork in the northwest track to the Omo Delta in the north of the world’s largest desert lake, Turkana, we say goodbye to our Samburu friends. They’ve added much colour and culture to our humble Living Traditions expedition to Chew Bahir and beyond. We enter Ethiopia at Omorati, and it’s on to the wild South Omo region with our clear Living Traditions objective to record and do continued humanitarian work with the nomadic tribes who make up one of Africa’s most colourful cultural mosaics. We’ve arrived on the third day of the fierce Mursi tribe’s donga stick-fighting ceremony with long sticks up to 2.5 metres in length. One of the previous day’s fighters has his wounds all wrapped up in pieces of cloth. The ‘prize’ for which the warriors will be fighting is a beautiful Mursi girl, who has moved from the shade of a thorn tree to lean demurely against the bush bar of our Land Rover Discovery. I jump backward as an AK47 round goes off close to my ear. Down comes a fighting stick, and then another AK round into the air. The tension builds! Some of the warriors have very dazed looks as they circle each other with their sticks at the ready. The fighting will continue for days, and sometimes ends in death.

Looking on are the Mursi women with their clay, saucer-like decorated lip plates. At the age of 15 or 16, a Mursi girl has a slit made beneath her lower lip; over time the gap is progressively stretched, forming a lip loop large enough for a small circular clay plate to fit. As the lip stretches, so larger plates are inserted until eventually the loop is large enough to hold a decorated plate up to 12cm in diameter—without the plate inserted, the lip can be pulled over the woman’s head! We’re told that the larger the lip plate, the greater her bride price: A real whopper can fetch up to 50 head of cattle. Malaria is also rife in this area, so we help out with some life-saving mosquito nets for mums and babies. It’s really the least we can do in gratitude for being able to share in this living tradition. Next are the Hamer people, as we continue to research the colourfully rich and fascinating cultures of Ethiopia’s South Omo region. A previous interaction with the Hamer had allowed us to witness their bull-jumping ceremony, in which—as part of his coming-of-age rite—a naked young man leaps into the air and jumps across the backs of a number of bulls. If he falls between them, he’s shamed and not allowed to marry for another year. If he

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ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The team took on the challenge in their trusty Land Rover Defender 130 and Discoverys, as well as land yachts and mountain bikes; Morane warrior Ltanelon Letelua, armed with an AK47, takes it upon himself to look after The Greybeard BELOW: The Samburu practice of age-set warriors leaping into the air is part of a dance form to attract the girls

succeeds, he’s a hero and may take a wife. This ceremony was preceded by the whipping of the Hamer girls by their suitors. As a Westerner, it was tough to watch as blood spurted from a deep gash—one of many that crisscrossed a naked back. One of the girls grunted in wide-eyed pain and then danced forward, tossing her head, spraying her admirer with butter fat and ochre from her thick plaited hair that hung in a fringe above her face, taunting him to whip her again. Down cracked the whipping stick—more blood. As proof of her Hamer tribal culture, she will proudly wear her horrific scars for life. Today it’s different as we move in to do malaria prevention work with pregnant Hamer mums and mothers with infants near Lake Chew Bahir. Now it’s time for our world-first attempt to cross the sun-baked Great Ocean of Salt. Even in the late afternoon, the heat that bounces off the rock-hard crust is mind-numbing as we

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offload the land yachts from the roof of the big 130 Defender. The booms and masts are almost too hot to handle. Not a breath of wind, apart from the occasional dust devil. Late afternoon runs into moonlight: booms, sails, batons, tyres, steering mechanisms, ropes, pulleys and the bolting on of the seats. Like a bunch of heat-crazed madmen, pointing up at the sails, we perform our own Chew Bahir Wind Dance. Somehow it works! The wind picks up and we’re off, racing across the desert crust: the thrill of the wind in the sails; the adrenaline rush as you fly a wheel and the squeal of the tyres as you make a flat-out turn into the wind; transfer your weight to the opposite seat; tug on the main sheet and you’re off again, heading for the pinprick of light that marks the distant campfire. Ross Holgate and Bruce Leslie race off toward the Kenyan border and then back again in the dark, with the Land Rover

headlights guiding them back for camp stew and bedrolls under a Milky Way, punctuated with falling stars. The next day, in strong winds, with dust devils careering across this somewhat unknown place, we all get to sail the yachts deep into Borana country. It’s mission accomplished! We empty the traditional Zulu calabash of symbolic Cradle of Humankind water, carried all the way from Lesedi Cultural Village in South Africa—and then, somewhat dehydrated, with sunburnt noses and rope-burnt, blistered hands from the land yacht main sheets, we pack up and head homeward along the base of the jagged Hamer range of mountains. Travel in Africa, it seems, is about timing and opportunity: We call it the Zen of Travel. Shortly after leaving, we hear that Ethiopia has just flared up with widespread anti-government protests, attacks on foreign-owned business, 52 people killed in a stampede at a religious festival, and thousands arrested. A six-month state of emergency now bans the use of social media, as well as the watching of broadcast stations deemed ‘terrorist organisations’, the crossing of one’s wrists above one’s head (a popular anti-government symbol), participation in protests, and carrying guns near the capital or within 50km of the country’s borders… There’s also a 6 p.m. to 6 a.m. curfew, and diplomats and foreigners are banned from travelling 40km outside the capital of Addis Ababa. Seems we got out just in time. I shudder to think what they would’ve thought of our eclectic bunch, barrelling across Chew Bahir on land yachts!

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FIONA Mc I N TO S H

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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FIO N A M cIN TOSH

Under sea THE

As Fiona McIntosh discovers, the waters surrounding the tiny island of Sakatia in northwest Madagascar offer some of the best—and most bizarre— diving in the world

Photographs by Jacques Vieira

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“I’ve been waiting all my life to see that!” Jacques shouts as we hit the surface. The dive instructor can’t contain his excitement. “I’ve seen those little swimming crabs on the body of sea cucumbers. But that crab went in and out of the cucumber’s poephol! I videoed the whole thing. Amazing.”

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I t

seems an unusual experience to have on your bucket list, but Jacques Vieira is an unusual guy. Following him around on a dive is enlightening; a super-macro specialist, his eyes are incredible. That morning, on a site called Olaf, he ignored all the obvious colourful corals and reef fish, seeking out critters that were barely visible to the naked eye. It took me a while, but eventually I managed to spot tiny shrimps camouflaged on whip corals, pigmy pipe horses, pencil shrimps in bubble coral, and wire coral crabs—none of them bigger than a fingernail. Treats that I’ve never seen in 40 years of diving. Our second dive of the day was an interesting exploration of the Mahavelona wreck, but it was that night’s dive, back at Olaf, that would stay with me forever. While Jacques was blabbering, the rest of us were speechless. We’d just done our first fluorescent dive, the special blue-light torches and yellow filters over our masks giving us a completely different view of life beneath the waves. The sight of corals glowing bright green in my torchlight was dazzling. I took out my magnifying glass and studied the detail. The inside of the corals was even more

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bizarre: a mass of pinks, greens, blues and purples flickering like gas flames. There were dazzling pink lizardfish, pretty blue-and-red feather stars and tiny, vividly coloured dragonets. An interesting thing is the way in which different species appear under the light. The eyes of whip coral gobies go bright pink while the body doesn’t fluoresce at all, and only the outer edges of a turtle’s shell glow. As we grew in confidence in this new environment, we started to explore in our buddy pairs, keeping an eye on where our guide was shining his torch, then finning over to view his finds. I’d noted the small black-and-gold crab on the sea cucumber, but moved on. Ten minutes later, Jacques was still there. I couldn’t work out what he’d found so intriguing. Back at Sakatia Lodge, where we’re staying, we congregate at the bar. Everyone is excitedly describing their experiences. Sandra, Jacques’s Dutch wife, smiles. “I was also blown away on my first dive. The corals hurt my eyes—it was like being in an ‘80s disco.” Born and raised in Gonubie, East London, Jacques—the son of a dive instructor—started diving in freshwater when he was 4 years old. His first sea dive was a shore entry off Gun Rock in East

London: a birthday present, at the tender age of 10. “I remember it clearly,” he recalls. “I’d been dying to go into the sea, but wasn’t allowed to do a shore entry because of the weight of the tank and crashing waves. Sure enough, I was knocked flat and had to go to the back of queue of divers for a second go. I got in like a seal, saw my first stingray, and have never looked back.” After working his way up through professional dive courses in South Africa, in 1998 he went to visit his old man who was skippering a yacht off Nosy Be. José offered Jacques the opportunity to come up and run the diving and yacht charter business. He’s been there ever since and has now logged over 10 000 dives.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Turtles are often seen on dives THIS PAGE: Diving on the Mahavelona wreck off Nosy Be Island OPPOSITE PAGE: Beautiful sea fans on the wall at Atnam

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KIN S L EY H O L GATE

Spiny flower corals, normally dull by day, fluoresce bright orange, while the sparkling tentacles of tube anemones dance in the current. For most people, Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, conjures up images of giant ‘upside-down’ baobab trees, cute lemurs, weird and wonderful giant jumping rats, chameleons that look like dinosaurs, bizarre geckos and exotic spices such as ylang ylang and vanilla. Thanks to broadcasts by naturalists such as Sir David Attenborough, the island’s isolation means the biodiversity and level of endemism is extraordinary. Ninety percent of its flora and fauna are found nowhere else in the world. Less publicised is the impressive marine diversity. Particularly up here in Sakatia, where a protective barrier, the Grand Banc de l’Entrée, and nutrient-rich waters brought in by currents and by upwellings

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have led to dense and varied marine life. The reefs are covered with hard and soft corals, sponges, fish, crustaceans and a vast array of invertebrates, with endemics like the Madagascan anemone fish (clownfish) drawing divers from all over the world. It’s my third dive trip to the region, and I’m firmly of the opinion that Madagascar’s diving is seriously underrated. The next day we dive Atnam, a wall covered with magnificent sea fans, some two metres high. The visibility is amazing; we can see down to the seabed at 50m, and miles into the big blue. Our second dive is on Seven Little Sharks, a drift dive over kilometres of pristine corals on which we see grey reef and oceanic white-tip sharks, along with a hawksbill turtle.

That night we grab our fluo torches and head out again to dive Espanol. A decorator crab, sporting colourful headgear that brings to mind d’Artagnan of The Three Musketeers, scuttles around fire corals. Spiny flower corals, normally dull by day, fluoresce bright orange, while the sparkling tentacles of tube anemones dance in the current. Back at the bar, as we leaf through the marine guidebook identifying a huge sculptured slipper lobster and the wonderfully named horrid elbow crab among our finds, I ask Jacques how he got into fluo diving. “When Sandra and I got married, her father gave us the TV series Oceans as a wedding present. One of the episodes was fluorescent diving in the Red Sea. It just looked extraordinary,” he explains. Jacques looked into buying the necessary filters and torches, but they were outrageously expensive. A year later, they were still exorbitantly priced and he started to feel disappointed. So Sandra picked up the phone and found a guy in the Netherlands selling the torches for 285 euros—which, by a twist of fate, happened to be where they were staying at the time, visiting Sandra’s family. “When I picked up the torch, I realised that it was dinkum, made on a lathe, not mass-produced,” he recalls. “These guys were pioneers in fluo

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diving and explained everything to me.” Finally, in March 2015, Jacques did his first fluo dive with some clients from Réunion. It was a weird experience, he says with a laugh. “I couldn’t do a briefing, as I didn’t know what to expect. I came up smiling from ear to ear. I was like a kid again, jumping around with new toys.” Fluo diving on Sakatia soon took off. And 300-plus fluo dives later, Jacques has lost none of his enthusiasm or passion. Earlier this year, he wrote the Fluorescent Night Diver specialty course for NAUI, one of the big-three worldwide dive training agencies. Though offered in the Red Sea, the Barrier Reef and in Thailand, fluo diving is still in its infancy. Sakatia is the only dive centre in Madagascar to offer it, and I know of only one other in southern

GETTING THERE Airlink offers direct scheduled flights between Johannesburg and Nosy Be. Book through SAA Central Reservations on

Africa—at Nuarro Lodge in northern Mozambique. But fluo is only one of his projects. Like the famous French naval officer, diver and researcher Jacques Cousteau, after whom he was named, Jacques Vieira is a pioneer and a visionary who’s constantly searching for and discovering new reefs, and working to improve the marine environment that is his office. The following day he takes us out to show us his coral restoration project, which recently won him the 2016 NAUI

011 978 1111, a booking agent, or at www.flyairlink.com. MadagasCaT Charters & Travel has been specialising in all travel

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Environmentalist Award. On the direct Airlink flight back from Nosy Be to South Africa, I meet a group of divers who have spent the week on a yacht-based dive trip to the Mitsio Islands, just north of Sakatia. As we swap stories, I promise myself that I’ll be back to dive those world-class sites. And after seeing our pics, I’ll bet they’ll be contacting Jacques about fluo diving.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Leaf scorpionfish, or paperfish; Red-spotted guard crab; Snorkelling with a whale shark—one of the activities offered to snorkellers as well as divers; Pixy hawkfish, also known as coral hawkfish; Leaf scorpionfish on a reef off Sakatia Island; Tube anemone glowing under fluorescent light on a night dive. INSET: Jacques and Sandra Vieira (Photo by Shaen Adey)

to Madagascar since 2008, and offers travellers the most competitive rates for travel to Nosy Be. The company’s range of exciting packages includes

flights, land arrangements and yacht charters. Visit www.madagascat.co.za, email info@madagascat.co.za or phone 079 149 6438.

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GR A HA M H OW E

great ON THE

Graham Howe follows the blues and jazz notes from New Orleans along the mighty Mississippi

RIVER ROAD

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GRAH AM H OWE

“Busted flat in Baton Rouge, waitin’ for a train, And I’s feelin’ near as faded as my jeans. Bobby thumbed a diesel down, just before it rained. It rode us all the way to New Orleans.” —Janis Joplin, “Me & Bobby McGee”

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e’re walking in the shadow of the massive concrete levee breached by a runaway barge when Hurricane Katrina hit the Mississippi Delta on 29 August 2005. This is where it all began. A decade ago, where I’m standing on terra firma was all deep underwater as hurricane winds and water destroyed everything in their path, surging through the lower 9th Ward: a poor working-class neighbourhood of New Orleans. Katrina has left her indelible mark. Exploring the worst-hit ward, where a thousand residents died and 4 000 homes were destroyed, I climbed the steps leading to cracked foundations in overgrown lots and dilapidated, boardedup shotgun shacks. Some still bear a biblical white cross on the door, painted by national guardsmen who went house to house retrieving bodies and residents, evacuating the city after the hurricane. On the 10th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina in 2015, the mayor declared New Orleans “the biggest comeback story in American history”. But many of the wrecked districts were slowly rebuilt, notably the eco-friendly, elevated flood-resistant homes built for the residents of the hardest-hit ward by a few of the world’s top architects who supported actor Brad Pitt’s “Make It Right” campaign to restore the city. We walked past the magnificent heritage houses crowned by replica pilot cabins where the steamboat captains of the Mississippi—legends like Mark Twain— once lived next to the river. On eponymous Flood Street, I met a resident walking the dogs she rescued from the flood waters; survivors like everyone else around here. Anyone who lived through the apocalypse in New Orleans has a story to tell: of triumph over loss. The bright-yellow façade of the home of Fats Domino, the piano laureate of New

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Orleans, is a landmark in the lower 9th. Rescued by helicopter from his home destroyed by Hurricane Katrina, the 88-year-old is a musical legend, symbolising the indestructible spirit of the city. Credited as one of the inventors of rock ‘n’ roll, Fats has influenced generations of artists from John Lennon to Elton John. I fancied I could spy him in a rocking chair on his porch painted with “FD” pop stars. It seemed the right place to set out on the first stretch of the Great River Road, an epic trip that follows the course of the Mississippi River for 4 000km from the Gulf of Mexico to Minnesota. It takes 36 hours of straight driving through 10 states on the National Scenic Byway Route that follows the winding course of Ol’ Man River, marked by pilot wheel signs—though you could float the leg from St. Louis to New Orleans the old-fashioned way by riverboat. Crossing the river on one of the mighty steel span bridges over the Mississippi, I headed back to the city. Founded in 1717, New Orleans celebrates its tricentennial in 2017. It is the most exotic of American cities: a sublime mix of Spanish, French, African, Caribbean, American, Creole and Cajun culture. The French Quarter, the heart of the city, is the funkiest neighbour-hood in the USA, where live jazz, blues and zydeco

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spill out of every bar and café and on the streets. The city is known as the birthplace of jazz and the blues; the home of giants, from Louis Armstrong to Jelly Roll Morton. The Great River Road is also a musical journey, a blues highway taking the music north all the way to Chicago. So I visited Congo Square, where slaves from West Africa and the Caribbean who were forced to work on the cotton and sugar-cane farms of Louisiana gathered on Sundays to dance and play music in the 1700s. The rhythms of West Africa blended with Caribbean influences, giving birth to the rich melting pot of culture and music in New Orleans. The French Cajuns played spoons on the washboard—creating the distinct sounds of zydeco. I also visited The House of the Rising Sun, home of one of the city’s legendary anthems. Music still fills Congo Square, but I spent Sunday listening to hot jazz, zydeco, gospel, African and Caribbean live music at the Orpheum, a magnificent three-gallery vaudeville theatre built in 1918, which was badly flooded in 2005. Exquisitely restored—from the art-nouveau mosaics to wedding-cake stucco of the three-tier galleries—this city landmark reopened to mark the rebirth of the city on the 10th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina. Today, it

is the home of the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra. The annual Mardi Gras festival in New Orleans grew out of these slave traditions and now features hundreds of colourful floats manned by clubs called krewes (old slave crews) and marching brass bands. Curiously, one of the 50 parades during the marching season from January to March is led by the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club, one of the oldest African-American carnival clubs—presumably also the descendants PREVIOUS SPREAD: The Mark Twain riverboat, one of the grand old paddle steamers of the Mississippi ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Tarantino filmed Django Unchained at Evergreen Plantation, one of the historic sugar estates near New Orleans; Graham at Bubba’s II PoBoys, a landmark for authentic Cajun seafood in Thibodaux, Louisiana BELOW, LEFT TO RIGHT: The avenue of ancient trees draped in Spanish moss at Evergreen Plantation; Keep your hands in the boat on a swamp safari down the bayous! OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT: One of the mighty swing bridges across the Mississippi; A riverboat taking tourists on rides in New Orleans OPPOSITE PAGE, BOTTOM, LEFT TO RIGHT: The giant copper kettles—a “Jamaican train”—used to crystallise sugar; The Preservation Hall Jazz Band of New Orleans

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of slaves. The Catholic Church authorised the original “carnival” in the early 1700s, which literally means “farewell to flesh”: a period of celebration before the fasting of Lent building up to Mardi Gras. The old riverboats were once built at Mardi Gras World: the waterfront warehouses where over 280 colourful carnival floats are now constructed every year. A ride on a grand threetiered riverboat, the Creole Queen or the Natchez, is a tourist must-do. The sight of paddle steamers tied up at the downtown quay is quintessentially Mississippi—as is a mint julep and fine southern fare served on board. “Big wheel keep on turnin’… rollin’, rollin’, rollin’ on the river.” The Great River Road starts out on the first stretch through plantation country from the delta around New Orleans to Baton Rouge—immortalised by Bob Dylan in his great 1960s album Highway 61 Revisited—on a highway that is dramatically suspended in places above the waterways and bayous, criss-crossing a submerged forest of telephone poles. At almost 6 000km long, the Mississippi is the third longest river in the world after the Nile and the Amazon. A historic 18th century map shows the hundreds of

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plantations settled along the river in Louisiana in the late 1700s, when cotton and sugar were king and queen from Natchez and Baton Rouge to New Orleans. Today, nine grand old plantations under the umbrella of New Orleans Plantation Country offer guided tours of the “big house” (main house), museums of heritage, slavery and the old slave quarters, restaurants and luxury accommodation. Many display rows of old cast-iron kettles used to crystallise the sugar, once called a Jamaican train. The “sugar palaces” are built in grand architectural style: from Greek neo-classic to French villas, raised creole cottages and Victorian mansions. Many were built in the late 1700s to mid-1800s by French, Irish and German colonists who became the sugar barons of Louisiana. The colonnaded porticos of these antebellum mansions all face the river—the raised grassed levees along the Mississippi—so the old barges could load the sugar cane and take it downstream to the refineries at the port of New Orleans. Sugar was a valuable commodity, known as white gold. We visited Oak Alley Plantation that’s famous for its magnificent avenue of 300-year-old “live oak” trees that lead up to a gracious mansion built by a wealthy

creole planter in the late 1830s. Guides in period costume, right down to hoop bell dresses, lead conducted tours of the “big house”, announced by the ringing of the old slave bell. In the sumptuous dining room, during meals a young child slave would pull the fabric shoo-fly fan. We also learnt about the superstitious mourning rituals of the settlers: They covered all the gilded mirrors in black fabric for a year so the souls of the departed were not trapped inside. A memorial wall at some plantations lists the names and origin of many slaves. A row of slave cabins at Oak Alley depict the harsh working and living conditions— from the house slaves who did the laundry and cleaning to the cooks, gardeners and plantation workers—and the annual sugar planting, growing, harvesting and grinding seasons in the life of a plantation. We stayed over in one of the delightful luxury cottages and enjoyed mint juleps on the veranda and a fabulous breakfast of crawfish omelette, creamy grits, cornbread and beignets served with local cane syrup at the outlaw shack. At sunset, I climbed one of the levees and enjoyed an ice-cold Dixie Blackened Voodoo lager on the banks of the Mississippi while watching the barges

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GR A HA M H OW E LEFT TO RIGHT: Buskers on stilts in New Orleans; Welcome to the Cajun Pride Swamp Tour—LaPlace, Louisiana

and showboats pass by. I never spotted the rougarou, a malevolent spirit that lives in the sugar-cane fields and emerges under the full moon to exact justice on the wicked. I heard you first have to drink a midnight jar of the local rum made from blackstrap molasses and raw sugar from a local distillery. They swear that if you circle your bed or home with 13 pennies, those mischievous southern spirits of the cane stay away. I slept too soundly after a nightcap of Sazerac rye whiskey to worry about evil spirits... We also visited St. Joseph Plantation next door on plantation parade on the banks of the Mississippi. The original owner was known as the Louis XIV of Louisiana. Built in 1830 by Creoles (meaning the first-born colonists), this large manor house is one of the few working sugar plantations today. Although many of the plantations changed hands over time, especially after the slump in sugar prices and the emancipation of slaves after the Civil War, the German Waguespack family have kept it thriving for 135 years—and the big house built of swamp cypress and oak is a lovely sight with its crepe myrtles, jasmine, resurrection ferns, roses and white magnolia in the gardens. Each plantation tells a story. While some tours focus on the lavish lifestyles of the sugar barons—from the antique furniture and crystal chandeliers to the marble floors—others focus on the harsh realities of slavery. The history of slavery is an essential part of the African-American experience, and the guides are animated storytellers who make this history come alive in an open, honest way. Often I had this strange sense of déjà vu: Many of the

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plantations are recognisable from all the TV series and movies on slavery shot on location here, including Queen Sugar, Roots and Twelve Years a Slave, filmed at nearby Felicity Plantation. We also visited Evergreen Plantation, the most intact plantation complex in the South, famous as the location where Tarantino filmed Django Unchained. The spiral staircase leading to the grand veranda and the maze gardens are iconic, and the guided tour was one of the best we did in plantation country. The guide talked extensively about slavery conditions on a walking tour of the original slave cabins set in sugar-cane fields along an avenue of 100 old oak trees bearded with Spanish moss. Laura Plantation, named the Top Travel Attraction by the Louisiana Office of Tourism, has the largest collection of original family heirlooms of any plantation. The memoirs of the fourth mistress of the plantation, Laura Locoul Gore, provided much of the history and details of daily life of the old Creole family dynasty. Gore inherited the plantation and ran it as a sugar business until she sold it to Aubert Waguespack in 1891. The Senegalese folktales of the slave Compair Lapin and Compair Bouki (the clever rabbit and the stupid fool), known worldwide as Br’er Rabbit, originated here. Another highlight was Whitney Plantation, which tells a moving story with its slave testimonies and marble memorial walls enshrined with the names of more than 100 000 slaves held in bondage in Louisiana from 1719 to 1820. In the Field of Angels, a poignant monument of a slave mother and child commemorates the 2 200 infants born to slaves who died of

disease and malnutrition before reaching the age of 2. Silent statues of child slaves stare back inside the St. John the Baptist Parish church, their only refuge. Heading toward Baton Rouge, we stopped at the River Road African American Museum in Donaldsonville, a pretty historic town on the banks of the Mississippi. This village museum is set in a cabin on the underground railroad that runaway slaves used to flee to freedom in the north before the Civil War. The artefacts—leg irons, steel collars, whips and branding irons—are chilling reminders of the brutality of slavery. The curator told us inspiring stories about legendary slave leaders and jazz musicians who came from here and took the blues highway north to freedom. Along the Great River Road, we visited wonderful homely roadside diners. At Spuddy’s Cajun Foods, a legendary local spot in the tiny town of Vacherie, we enjoyed fried oyster, shrimp and homemade double-smoked andouille sausage filled into an over-stuffed po’ boy (baguette). At B & C Seafood Cajun Restaurant, one of the best diners for what they call “soul food” in the Deep South, we enjoyed platters of fresh crawfish (mudbugs), shrimp, deep-fried catfish and soft-shell crab, served with okra, sweet corn and yams—washed down with a ragin’ Cajun lager and Abita root beer. We also dined on gumbo and jambalaya: rich, spicy soups and stews with smoked Cajun sausages, served over rice. Along the way, I won a coveted silver spoon in a Tabasco heat test, for braving the hot peppers that go into one of Louisiana’s most famous exports, made at a factory on Avery Island, a major tourist destination. (I didn’t know it was okay to spit out the raw peppers!) I also tasted homemade pecan pralines, the signature candy of Louisiana. I learnt that the history of sugar has bitter roots... Graham Howe attended IPW 2016 as a guest of British Airways, the US Travel Association, and the New Orleans Convention & Visitors Bureau. See www.ba.com, www.VisitTheUSA. com and www.visitNOPC.com.

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MAT T HE W H O LT

walk time A

THROUGH

Matthew Holt takes a hike into the ruins of the once-great Lycia

There was no cover from the baking sun; my water bottles were empty and, worse still, we were climbing again—despite the guidebook claiming we were going downhill. “Where there’s a will, there’s a way,” my mother would say, among other irritating homilies. But in this case, there was plenty of way: in fact, possibly too much of it. Photographs by Mandy Ramsden and Matthew Holt

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andy Ramsden and I were somewhere on the Teke Peninsula in Turkey, attempting to follow the Lycian Way. Rated by the UK’s Sunday Times as one of the world’s top 10 hikes, it meanders from near Fethiye to Antalya, through what was ancient Lycia. Until then, I’d never heard of Lycia, whose heyday as an independent kingdom was glorious, brief and over 2 500 years ago. Having featured in Homer’s Iliad, fighting at Troy the Lycians got too plucky for their boots, attacked the Persian Empire and lost. Thereafter, Lycia was a colony of whichever superpower controlled the region, prospering under the Greeks and then the Romans. The trail started with little fanfare on a dirt road near a roundabout, several kilometres above the beach resort of Ölüdeniz. It was a pleasant first day, traversing the slopes of Babadağ Mountain on forest roads and mule tracks, with the scent of fresh pines and sweeping views of the coastline below. We spent the night at a pension perched on the cliffs at Faralya, drinking cold Efes beers while the sun sank into the Mediterranean and the muezzin called for prayers.

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M AT T H EW H OLT

We hadn’t brought a tent or stove, hoping to find accommodation along the way—though we did carry bivvy bags, just in case. As it turned out, we always found somewhere to stay, ranging from hotels and pensions, to a campsite where we shared the communal sofas with a dozen stray cats, and an eccentric eco-camp hosting a convention of jugglers and hula-hoopers. Near major resorts, we encountered several parties of slackpackers, wearing freshly laundered clothes and slim daypacks. But considering we were on one of the world’s top trails, we saw surprisingly few other hikers and only two attempting the entire route. While we met few other hikers, however, we rarely lacked for company, regularly being accompanied by stray dogs that refused to be deterred by harsh words, brandished sticks or lobbed stones. Dark, rangy mongrels, they were invariably good-natured and disinterested in our food, seemingly coming along just for the company and adventure. There was a puppy that followed us from Patara on a sizzling day and then passed out dehydrated, so we had to revive him with our scarce water. When we abandoned him, after 15 kilometres, on some steep

crags near Kalkan, we could hear his plaintive howls for the next half hour. And there was the pair who chaperoned us from Kale to Demre, faithfully trotting at our heels for 6km across busy roads. We had to hide in St. Nicholas’s tomb, among Russian pilgrims, to shake them off our tail. As the kilometres racked up, our ankles clicked, our knees buckled and our hips grated. But at the same time, we got tougher mentally and into a rhythm. Carrying packs weighing 14 kilos, we averaged 21km each day. And while our guidebook claimed the trail was 540km, with hindsight we reckon it was 440km. We had chosen to come in October to avoid the stifling summer heat, though most days the temperature still exceeded 30˚C. The main drawback was the lack of water, for after the long summer many rivers and wells were dry. Accordingly, our primary concern was dehydration, combined with getting lost. The route was haphazardly marked and our guidebook was often plain wrong. We typically spent at least an hour each day blundering around, retracing our steps and searching for route markers, while I consoled myself with fantasies of meeting the guidebook’s author. These were quibbles, however, for overall it was a marvellous trip, through a

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MAT T HE W H O LT

Along the way, we were frequently humbled by the kindness of strangers, who popped up to perform acts of serendipity when we needed them most. fascinating part of the world. We stayed in quiet fishing harbours, eating fresh calamari at family-run restaurants; in vibrant marinas, quaffing cocktails in swanky bars; and in mountain villages, where everything was homemade and all the residents looked over 80. We huffed over steep mountain passes, stopped in makeshift cafés for freshly squeezed

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orange juice, edged along precipitous paths clinging to cliffs, and stripped off to swim in secluded coves. Best of all, however, were the ruins of the once great Lycian cities dotted along the trail. There was Xanthos, the former Lycian capital, whose population twice committed mass suicide rather than surrender; Patara, which boasted an Oracle

to rival Delphi’s and was the birthplace of Saint Nicholas, aka Father Christmas; Simena, which flooded after an earthquake and which we visited in sea kayaks; and Olympos, which unwisely turned to piracy and was razed by the Romans.

PREVIOUS PAGE: On the aqueduct at Delikkemer, an inverted siphon; Looking down on Ölüdeniz beach resort THIS PAGE, TOP AND BOTTOM: In Xanthos, the former Lycian capital

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MAT T HE W H O LT

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: In the pine forests of Cape Gelidonya; Sunset at Kale; Going up the Kemer Gorge; The end of the hike, near Geyikbayırı; On the road to Hisarçandir; Stopping for morning juice outside Adrasan, a village in the Antalya Province

My favourite was Phaselis, set in a quiet bay amid pine trees, with the soaring white pyramid of Tahtali Dag mountain providing the backdrop. The temple here once housed Achilles’s spear—and Alexander, Caesar and Hadrian all visited. Arriving early, we had the place to ourselves, wandering among the arches and swimming out to the old harbour walls. As we were leaving, motorised gullets pimped as pirate galleons arrived in the bay, bringing boisterous day trippers from Kemer. It was an apt note on which to depart. After the Turks defeated the Byzantine navy in 655 AD, Arab pirates terrorised the coast and Phaselis was abandoned. Like the Lycians, we headed into the mountains, slogging on a tar road up the Kemer Gorge. It was a hazardous journey: No matter whether they’re in a car, bus or

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tractor, all Turks seem to think they’re racing drivers—cutting the apexes off corners and refusing to let cowering hikers impede overtaking manoeuvres. After two days in the mountains, we crossed a steep gorge to Çitdibi. We got the impression not too many hikers came this way: The trail was faint and the infrequent hamlets devoid of shops and accommodation. We were spared an uncomfortable night by the local mayor who drove us to a climbers’ refuge and three Israelis who shared their chicken stew. Along the way, we were frequently humbled by the kindness of strangers, who popped up to perform acts of serendipity when we needed them most. The final day took us over the Karabel Pass. With the trail often obliterated by landslides or hidden beneath felled trees, we repeatedly got lost. The main

compensation was the Roman hilltop settlement at Trebenna, where we clambered among overgrown ruins pretending to be Indiana Jones. Our journey finished at Geyikbayırı, a nondescript village 20km above Antalya. There wasn’t much fanfare here, either, just a sign saying: “Start: Lycian Way: 509km”. After three weeks’ hiking along the turquoise coast, through the ruins of once great ancient cities, this seemed a strange place to end—but, on reflection, it was actually quite fitting. With Arab pirates plundering the coast, plus plagues and earthquakes adding their toll, the Lycians retreated into the mountains and faded into history. In fact, the trail didn’t even finish in the village, but several kilometres outside, and we were rescued by a local fig farmer who gave us a lift to Antalya.

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FIONA AY E RS T

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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FIO N A AY ER ST

ghost Fiona Ayerst travelled to the Indian Himalaya to search for the mysterious, majestic and elusive snow leopard

GREY

OF THE MOUNTAIN

It was around 1995 when I laid my hands on Peter Matthiessen’s The Snow Leopard (1978). I found the dusty, dog-eared book again in 2015, at the bottom corner of a box. I had just watched The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, and knew I’d have to go and find this cat myself after Sean Penn growled: “They call the snow leopard the ghost cat. Never lets itself be seen... Beautiful things don’t ask for attention.”

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researched a trip to India—into the rocky, snowy Himalaya. As a child, I’d loved any mention of the Abominable Snowman or Yeti. The trip took on an adventure-type quality stretching back into my childhood. Did the leopard really exist? Matthiessen had spent two months looking for the snow leopard, and failed. March 2016 found me leaving the 30-degree sultry heat of New Delhi and winging my way to Leh, a district of Ladakh (“land of high passes”) in northwest India. I was in awe of the unexpected and fabulous views over the Karakoram mountain range in the early morning light. This range spans the borders between Pakistan, India, China and Afghanistan and has 30 peaks over 7 000 metres. It’s rated the most spectacular mountain range on Earth. Standing at 3 500m in the very cold, -20°C air, I was in shock. Pausing to suck in the thin air, I could see only army barracks and brown mountains from the airport. I walked hurriedly past myriad signs saying foreign visitors should rest for at least 24 hours on arrival due to altitude. Apparently I’d be suffering from one or all of mild headaches, disturbed sleep and breathlessness. Panicking and feeling suddenly lightheaded, I looked around for someone else from my group. My panicked state worsened when I saw a pair of hiking books sticking out horizontally and ominously from behind a thin curtain in a small room to the left, marked with a big red cross. I sidled over, and when I heard that one of our group was going to be taken to hospital with suspected altitude sickness, my concern increased—along with my blood pressure.

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Ultimately, four of our group of nine had to be taken to hospital during the first three days. Luckily I’d heard how important it was to arrive at least two days ahead of the trip and to take it easy. I spent this time walking (slowly) through the prayer flag–adorned alleyways, taking in the glorious ochre hues and the spicy smells of India. The population of the largely Buddhist Leh is 27 500, and this number swells with tourists during the summer and particularly during religious festivals. Leh sits perched next to the Indus River. Romantically, the river valley represents an important ancient trade route along which salt, grain, cashmere wool, cannabis resin, indigo and silk all made their way. The modern reality is that this is border country with ever present army installations. There’s friction between India and its sibling rival Pakistan. China and Tibet enclose the other borders, and the relationship between them is not pretty, either. Happily, though, it’s still possible to escape the army presence by travelling into the mountain valleys. I’d describe the district of Leh as a mix of kind and friendly, selfless souls; rivers and mountains. It’s a strange blend of Buddhist temples and army barracks. Watching prayer-wheel-spinning, orange-cloaked Buddhist monks rubbing shoulders with dapper men in khaki fatigues, I found it hard to get my head around the contradictions of soft and hard, hot and cold, military and deeply spiritual. I had only two weeks to find ‘my’ cat. I met my guide Jigmet Dadul: snowleopard-spotter superman and a field programme manager of the nongovernmental organisation, Snow Leopard Conservancy India Trust (SLC-IT). I was immediately drawn to his gentle and warm manner, and his passion for the animals of

Ladakh. He reassured me that “the best time to see the cats is from January to March, when the heavy snows arrive and the animals come down from the high peaks to mate.” According to Jigmet, “Until fairly recently, seeing a snow leopard was an almost impossible dream for most Westerners—but now, thanks to NGOs following them for many years and getting to know the movements of the cats, it’s now pretty much guaranteed.” We travelled along the icy Indus to the remote scree ridge–covered Ulley Valley. Jigmet showed us the first signs of snow leopard—some scrapes in the sand—and he had us sniffing scent-marked rocks. After driving ever upward on an eyesqueezing scary road, boasting what seemed like thousands of switchbacks heading into nothingness over steep valleys, we reached our ‘homestay’. Jigmet explained that this accommodation scheme was launched by the SLC-IT in 2004. Tourists get to stay with local homeowners and, in return, the households must agree to stop killing the snow leopards. There are 119 households involved in the scheme, and all proceeds except for a 10% conservation levy (paid into a kitty for projects to uplift the village) go directly to the homeowner.

PREVIOUS SPREAD: Shan, as the locals call the snow leopard, scrutinises the lucky photographer before slipping behind the outcrop THIS PAGE: Home of the snow leopard—the snow-capped Himalaya outside Leh, the capital of Ladakh OPPOSITE PAGE: ”They call the snow leopard the ghost cat... Beautiful things don’t ask for attention.” —The Secret Life of Walter Mitty

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FIO N A AY ER ST

We stayed in a mud-brick house perched high at the head of the valley. It boasted a flat-topped roof on which to stand and take in the breathtaking views of the skyline ridges all around. And ‘breathtaking’ is an apt description: At 4 150m, there was less oxygen than in Leh, and every activity left us gasping for air. We started searching in a most genteel and relaxed manner, with copious quantities of masala chai (spicy tea) being supplied by our host. After about an hour I was bored, and my lonely novel sitting next to my tripod was calling out for my attention. I decided I’d scope the slopes for another 15 minutes before settling down for a good read. After all, I had nine companions and there were six guides, all of whom were looking. Lowering my eye to the viewfinder, I saw a long tail whipping out, silhouetted on the horizon. I screamed in sheer delight. I don’t think I’ve ever made a sound like that before. My friends will attest to my calm facade in the face of most events. But there was nothing calm about this feeling, a quivering deep in my core. The snow leopard was up to 800m away. No doubt it could hear me as I screamed, completely unable to stop. Spluttering, I managed to point out to the others where I’d seen the ghost. For a nail-biting 15 minutes, there was no sign of it. I was beginning to feel foolish, when I heard a shout. One of the guides had found it sitting among rocks, very close to where I’d seen the tail. I was immensely relieved that I wouldn’t be branded as crazy. It took me a long time to calm down and I never actually saw the body of that cat properly, such was my excitement level. I was much calmer at the next sighting. I soaked in the magnificence of this animal.

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It truly is a majestic and beautiful cat, superbly adapted to dominate the barren landscape. The rosettes on its coat provide the best camouflage. It has an amazingly long tail (almost as long as its body), which it uses both to maintain balance when chasing prey down the steep mountainsides, and as a furry shawl to wrap around its face in the depths of winter. It also has

a 10cm thick coat of fur to help keep it warm. The Ladakhi word for the leopard is “Shan”. In recent years, Jigmet has heard more locals refer to the animal as “the ornament of the mountain”. That evening I was awarded with a homemade cake, securing my position as ultimate leopard lady. I’ve never been prouder. At dinner, our host confirmed that

I saw a long tail whipping out, silhouetted on the horizon. I screamed in sheer delight. I don’t think I’ve ever made a sound like that before.

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FIONA AY E RS T

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Eighty percent of the Ladakh population is Buddhist—the ubiquitous prayer flag can be seen flapping from every hill and housetop; As winter morphs into spring, the frozen rivers start to thaw and it’s still possible to walk up the iced-over water in crampons; Archery is a popular traditional sport among the men of Ladakh; Thiksay is the largest gompa (monastery) in central Ladakh and houses a 15m high golden statue of Maitreya Buddha that covers two storeys

in the past, “the cats were a big problem for the subsistence farmers dotted all over the valley. The cats would come down from the hills at night and kill many livestock, sometimes only eating a leg off one and a head off another.” Standing under an old wolf tail tacked up to the door arch, he assured us that more recently he loves wolves and snow leopards, and has no interest in killing them! The SLC-IT also supplies materials for building leopard-proof enclosures for the farmers. Jigmet explained, “We supply the mesh wire [for the roof, too], wooden poles and doors, and door frames—the villagers have to build the structure. This gives the locals ownership, and then we have buy-in from them. If you give everything, then there is no ownership.” Locals are also being trained to track and act as ‘spotters’ for tourists and surveys. It appears that income from ecotourism is making an impact. It’s a win-win situation for all the people involved as well as the animals. We had the extreme privilege of spending two hours watching a mother leopard with two cubs. Just when we thought life couldn’t get any better, we witnessed the feline family (unsuccessfully) hunting ibex in the low light of dusk. Another highlight was the pack of 16

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grey Tibetan wolves that put in a regular morning appearance. I loved to watch the wolves in the frosty first light, gliding in each other’s slipstreams over the mountainside, snouts down, ever sniffing for prey. After five days in Ulley, our next stop was Stok Kangri and the adjacent Hemis National Park. Stok Kangri is a peak of 6 153m, which dominates the view over the Indus Valley. The national park comprises 3 350km2, home to an estimated 40 snow leopards. Ladakh is humungous at 98 000km2. Although an official survey hasn’t been completed, Jigmet believed there could be 500 to 600 snow leopards living in Ladakh. We decanted our baggage onto ponies for the journey to our tented camp in Hemis, and I learnt the joys of walking up an ice-filled river with shoe crampons. The ice under my feet crunched satisfyingly as we walked to our new camp. I could hear the water starting to thaw and flow just under the ice next to my tent. Our camp crew and ponies arrived laden with a portable kitchen, and quickly cut a hole in the ice to access the water. Soon there was a pot of tea to share. The Stok Valley is starkly gorgeous. We found plenty of four-toed pugmarks on the ice, and close to our camp we spotted fresh

scrapings—signs of leopard in the vicinity. We had two snow leopard encounters, but both were infuriatingly distant animals, walking skyline ridges. Although I’m not a birder, I enjoyed the time we spent one day with a Eurasian eagle-owl that gave itself up for a long viewing. The mammalian highlight of Hemis— and the favourite meal of Shan—the bharal (or Himalayan blue sheep) gave us vain hope that a leopard would be lured down to us in the valley. The male sheep were very impressive, with their bright yellow eyes, black tights and fat flanks. After a week of comfortable camping in the wild, it was strange to get back to civilisation and a steaming hot shower. From my hotel window in Leh, I could see the icy face of the Stok Kangri peak and had a yearning to be back under its stony glare. Flying out after two adventurous weeks, I made sure I was sitting over the right wing. As I pondered the peak of K2, I realised I’d love to return. There’s now 90% certainty that you can see Shan, the grey ghost of the mountains, in the wild.

Fiona will be leading a trip to Leh in March 2018. Details can be found on her website fionaayerst.me, under “Services” (click on “Expeditions”) or email info@fionaayerst.me.

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MA R C D IN K E L M A N N

the view from the

tracks

Marc Dinkelmann boards the Trans-Siberian Railway from Russia, through Mongolia and on to Beijing

There’s something romantic about traversing Russia on a train, whiling away the hours watching the forests of the Wild Taiga pass you by as the vintage juggernaut powerfully chugs through the night.

t had long been a dream of mine to catch the Trans-Siberian and then deviate through to Mongolia, and the excitement while boarding the first train in Moscow was goosebump-inducing— right from the moment of deciphering the Cyrillic departure boards, through to meeting my cabin mates. Leaving the Russian capital—an unbelievably vibrant and energetic city—

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and boarding your first train is an experience in itself. The trains are clean and maintained, but they hardly compare to the excess that is Moscow! Your provinista, the matron of your carriage, does an excellent job (in a strict, Russian fashion) of ensuring your abode is spotless and that passengers behave themselves. Not unlike a boarding-school headmistress. I got the impression there’s a bit of

unspoken competition between the provinistas as to who has the cleanest, most immaculate carriage; it’s quite something to see the lengths to which they go to make sure everything is in order. On the train, I got the rare opportunity to meet and interact with local travellers, and the occasional backpacker like myself. Invariably, this involved a bottle of vodka being cracked open, and the Russian

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M ARC D IN KEL M A NN

custom is never to leave an unfinished bottle behind—so I had a lot of fun trying to communicate in a hodge-podge of English and Russian. There were also times when the English language was entirely lost on a cabin mate, in which case I found myself merely greeting my fellow passenger and then spending the next 12 hours in silence, watching the beautiful landscape passing

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by. When it came time to disembark, we would exchange a rather formal goodbye and go on our separate ways. Along the 7 621-kilometre journey from Moscow to Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia, we passed through a large number of Russian and Siberian cities, some more exciting than others. It’s worthwhile adopting a hop on–hop off approach to break up the journey, as it’d drive you crazy

to sit in a cabin for days on end. In between the scattered cities you’ll see vast conifer forests that made me think of Christmas. Perhaps the ultimate experience would be to do this expedition twice: once in summer to experience the lush, green forests and unfrozen lakes, and then again in winter to see the fairytale landscapes covered in knee-deep snow, trees bending under their heavy burden.

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MA R C D IN K E L M A N N

A personal favourite stop was Irkutsk, the gateway to Lake Baikal: the planet’s largest freshwater lake by volume, containing around 20% of the world’s unfrozen surface drinkable water. The lake’s main entry point, Listvyanka, is 70km from Irkutsk and serves as the start for treks to neighbouring rural villages. I chose to spend two days trekking to Bolshiye Koty, a small village on Lake Baikal that’s accessible only by foot or boat, until winter when one can simply drive across the ice. I could’ve been somewhere in eastern Turkey, admiring

Of Mongolia’s 3 million citizens, half live in the capital of Ulaanbaatar, while the other half are scattered all over the rest of the country—the 20th largest in the world. This has resulted in an extremely large country that seems virtually uninhabited. It’s a strange yet beautiful feeling to be surrounded by such an astonishing, raw, rural space. When I think back on Mongolia and the Gobi, I recall never-ending vistas scattered with herds of wild horses, camels and the occasional nomadic family with their goats and sheep. The Gobi is best described as the land

the Mediterranean; the lake was that impressive, and a true reminder that the hidden gems of Siberia are worth uncovering—summer or winter. Upon reaching the next major city on the Trans-Siberian, I had a choice either to remain in Russia until the train eventually came to a stop in Vladivostok, or jump on the Trans-Mongolian Railway from Ulan-Ude to Mongolia. It was an easy decision for me: The wide, open plains of the Gobi Desert were calling, so off I went to Mongolia. The overland border crossing between Russia and Mongolia was a real test of my patience. Although the formalities took only 30 minutes, I found myself aimlessly wandering around the abandoned train platform for hours before the officials arrived. Nothing happens quickly at any border crossing, I guess.

of big skies: The horizons stretch on forever, giving the impression that their only limiting factor is the curvature of the Earth. This feeling is further enhanced by how flat the country is, due to the infinite Mongolian steppe. The best way to explore the Gobi is by driving through it with an experienced driver in a trusty Soviet-built Russian van, the appearance of which will not instil much confidence, but the drivers have an intimate relationship with their vehicles and are able to fix them with virtually no tools. The terrain in central Mongolia and the Gobi is unforgiving, but the vans bash their way through without ever breaking down. Our driver, a Mongolian man by the name of Batar—“a father of three, a doctor, an engineer and a soldier”, all of which he was extremely proud—went all MacGyver on us with nothing but a pair of pliers.

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I had a look under the van while he was tightening something; let’s just say a health and safety rep somewhere out there would have sleepless nights… Living with local nomadic families in their gers (portable tents) is a truly extraordinary experience. I was welcomed into their modest lives with extreme hospitality and generosity—the Western world could learn a thing or two! The accommodation was humble, and the lack of proper sanitation could best be described as a character-building experience.

PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The Trans-Mongolian Railway passing through the Mongolian steppe en route to Beijing; Open roads through central Mongolia—nothing but wide open spaces; Our trusty Russian-built van that carried us through Mongolia and the Gobi without fail; The ‘white angels’ of the Gobi—sand formations in a variety of hues THIS PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: The interior of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral in St. Petersburg, Russia; Church of the Intercession of the Holy Virgin on the Nerl River in Bogolyubovo (close to Vladimir, Russia) OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Moscow’s famous Red Square; The Khongor sand dunes (Khongoriin Els) in Mongolia

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Watching the sunset from the Khongor sand dunes or horse riding through the Orkhon Valley is much more appealing than keeping up with the news or your social media accounts

I was offered an endless supply of airag, the local alcoholic drink made from fermented mare’s milk (the taste of which is moderately better than what it sounds like). There are traditions all guests have to adhere to in order to prevent offence, the most important being never to show your feet to the ‘sacred’ corner of the ger, and secondly, never to refuse airag. The Gobi is one of those timeless places where you lose touch with the world, and put your phone away and forget about it. Watching the sunset from the Khongor sand dunes (Khongoriin Els) or horse riding through the Orkhon Valley is much more appealing than keeping up with the news or your social media accounts. (Horse riding—another romantic idea, but I can’t say I’ll be doing that again in a hurry! Mongolians refer to their horses as “half tame, half wild”, but the animals are

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inclined to do their own thing.) Five weeks later, it was time to board one last train to Beijing. Another horrendous border crossing ensued, as Mongolia has single tracks while China has double, necessitating the carriage bogies to be changed. It was hours of sitting in a hot cabin before being lifted into the air as the train got adequately equipped for China. Eventually reaching the capital city of China, the first thing that captured my attention was the heavy air pollution. Strange for a city that’s actually extraordinarily clean from other viewpoints. A city of nearly 22 million people is nothing short of mind-bending after coming from a country with only 3 million. But it adds to the experience: the organised chaos, delicious food, remarkable World Heritage Sites, busy hutongs (narrow streets or alleys) and

bright lights. The trick is to avoid the crowds. Our small group of five was the only one on an afternoon trek to remote parts of the Great Wall of China, just in time to catch the sun melting the clouds in a spectacular sunset. If you’re someone who gets a kick out of doing something different, the Trans-Siberian Railway is for you. It takes a decent amount of research, but it’s worth it to get a unique, non-touristy experience. There will be times you’ll be standing in front of a train departure board, written in an alphabet you don’t understand, asking yourself why you’re doing this—but there will also be times when, at 1 a.m., you’ll be sitting with a Russian family in your tiny train cabin, drinking vodka and playing card games, communicating in a language other than words. It’ll make the journey truly unforgettable.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

Bryony McCormick goes on a sevenday mountain biking expedition covering the entire Transkei coastline, in the pursuit of true happiness

Photographs by Dave Fisher

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BRYO N Y M cC O RM I CK

We rode our mountain bikes from one end of the Transkei to the other, with nothing but exploration and adventure in mind. There were no ulterior motives; we weren’t raising money for a charity, we weren’t trying to be pioneers, or get an FKT. Our goal was simple: to have good old-fashioned fun and show how people can— with a little effort and not so much cash—achieve a different version of happiness.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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ccasionally, one of those ridiculous, impossible-to-achieve Facebook memes makes an impact on me; a recent example was a simple quote: “Everybody dies, but not everybody lives.” How does one define living, though? Is there a right or wrong way of doing it? Surely, to truly live one must experience happiness. An opportunity to cycle self-supported on mountain bikes, from Kei Mouth to Port Edward (340 kilometres covering the entire length of the Transkei Coast), presented itself around the same time this meme was bobbing around in my head, and I thought it would be a perfect time to explore what it means to ‘live’. It couldn’t have been a more perfect group of riders to join, either, as we all shared similar views on wealth, and what it means to be rich. None of us had lucrative salaries, but we had flexible jobs, wanderlust and a collection of valuable memories and adventures from around the globe that we savoured and banked in our own minds. We all shared the belief that wealth doesn’t just come in hundred-rand notes, and together decided to use the ride to capture that very concept on film. During the seven days, I quickly discovered that the experiences and things I presumed would bring a smile to my face, and help me discover this version of happiness, weren’t the things I’d expected at all. For instance, I didn’t experience the all-body-encompassing happiness at one of the many immense river crossings surrounded by nothing but empty, green hills and forests, nor when I rounded a corner straight into another majestic view of the rugged, unexplored coastline. It wasn’t during one of the endless white-sanded beach crossings or wild, goat-track descents into yet another rural village that did it. Turns out it was far less dramatic than that. Instead, I found my true happiness and experienced the raw, untouched beauty of the Transkei during small, quiet moments. It was sitting on an empty quart case outside a spaza, eating the oiliest amagwenya (think vetkoek), and watching the community go about its day-to-day activities. It was sharing a pot of iMana soya mince and a loaf of bread with five friends after a solid

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12-hour day in the saddle. It was eating lunch overlooking Hole-in-the-Wall, and falling asleep on the banks of a lagoon to avoid the midday heat. It was a local giving us the blankets off his own bed to ensure our comfort. These small moments amid the seven-day expedition—which involved long stretches of tremendous effort—were the moments that made my lips curl up in a private smile. They were moments that made my heart ache with longing for that sense of freedom to last forever. They were moments that made it easier to exhale. They were moments I shared with the Transkei—or rather, that the Transkei shared with me—that reminded me of the type of happiness that’s available if we just shrug off the constraints and

PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Andrew King making his way around Umngazi River mouth—uncrowded, vast landscapes were the norm; Robert le Brun and I going toward Waterfall Bluff (learning to cycle within these narrow cattle-and-goat trails was no easy feat); Robert and Clint Pretorius cruising across one of thousands of beach sections; Beauty is all around—you just need to look for it THIS PAGE, FROM THE TOP: Andrew surveys the coastline of the Nqabara River, on a scorcher of a day; Waterfall Bluff is one of a few cataracts on Earth that fall directly into the water, and it made an excellent lunch stop on our second-last day

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I found my true happiness and experienced the raw, untouched beauty of the Transkei during small, quiet moments…They were moments that made my heart ache with longing for that sense of freedom to last forever.

Mdumbi is hands-down my favourite place in the world—the five of us, along with Eco the camp dog, catch the sunrise on the morning of the fourth day

expectations of society. They were moments that helped me recognise the kind of happiness that money simply cannot buy, but certainly the kind I have and will continue to search for. Here are a few of my favourite memories from the Transkei that highlight small interactions, exchanges or moments that reinstated how simple happiness can be.

HIGH-FIVES FOR HAPPINESS The small exchange of high-fives with a local kid taught me that happiness is very literally one high-five away. We cloud our lives with complexities and complications, making it difficult to experience or even see small bouts of happiness. Midway up a steep hill (I was pushing my bike), I heard a shriek from the left-hand side. I realised it was a young kid, waving furiously at me. I waved back, giving him the invitation he needed, and he launched forward in a run at top speed, covering a significant ‘down-up’ before reaching me. He skidded to a stop and stuck out his hand boldly for a high-five. I smiled wide, and high-fived him back. He was tired from his sprint, his chest was heaving and his entire body trembling, but his eyes were on fire and his smile was bigger than you could imagine. And that was it; he didn’t ask for anything in exchange. That high-five had literally made his day and given him a reason to be happy. Imagine for a second, having a life void of complications to the extent that a high-five would suffice in bringing a smile to your face.

LOVE A LITTLE, FEEL A LOT Being kind to people and creatures less fortunate than myself

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turned out to be an indication of how much joy helping someone or something can bring—far more joy than a new pair of shoes or fancy outfit. In one case, it was a small exchange between a scraggly, skinny Transkei dog whose desperation for a tiny snack outweighed his immense fear of me, but only until I scratched behind his flea-ridden ears and gave him a taste of what affection felt like. His eyes melted. He melted. He was in heaven. I shudder at the thought of how many times he and other dogs in the Transkei have been told to hamba. Because of that, I reached out to every dog I could—whether it was a pat on the head, or a corner of my sandwich—and with every tiny head scratch or snack, the dogs simply melted, wagging their tails with a stiffness that suggested they don’t normally wag. I had a dog climb onto my lap and curl up and sleep within about 10 seconds of scratching behind his ears. They have so much trust and love to give, yet no one to whom to give it. Now consider what type of person you are: Do you say hamba more than you high-five? Knowing that such a small gesture can change someone’s day, like my feral friends in the Eastern Cape, why not give it a bash? The reward offered by sharing a little bit happiness is far greater than a new pair of shoes, I can assure you.

HAPPINESS CAN BE FREE Cycling through the Transkei required early starts, which meant that most days I got to watch the sunrise. It was remarkable how something as common as the sunrise had the ability to change my forthcoming day, for the better. On the morning of the fourth day, we strolled down to Mdumbi point overlooking the bay, tea in hand, Eco the camp dog in tow, and sat down to watch the sun

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BR YO N Y M c CO RM I CK

Only one kilometre to go!

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Crossing the Ntafufu River was quite a struggle as it’s so deep—the guys had to help me get my bike across; Stopping for Wilson’s Toffees at a spaza shop; Taking a moment to reminisce on a driftwood beach before exiting Ntlolowa forest reserve; On our way into the Dwesa Nature Reserve for a bit of shade and some lunch

rise over the ocean. The golden, fiery ball rising in front of us was simply riveting, spewing off energy and good vibes through its beauty and majesty. We absorbed what we could, and collectively soaked in the moment before heading back to camp to tackle a full 55km day. The crazy thing about this experience is that it’s free and happens every day—yet, how many of us take advantage of it? And it doesn’t necessarily have to be a sunrise. We live in a beautiful country, and while in some cases finding beauty may involve looking for it, it still exists. Reminding yourself of the beautiful place in which we live not only kick-starts your serotonin production for the day, but it also gives you a reason to believe in our country, a reason to stay and fight for its future.

HAPPINESS FOR THE SAKE OF HAPPINESS As we were passing the lagoon of the Umgazi River mouth on the fourth day, I spotted hundreds of seagulls on the beach ahead of us. By that stage in the trip, the guys had taught me how to ride with my hands off the handlebars, and the five of us rode into the massive flock of birds, hands stretched out in flight. They took off and you could feel the wind from their wings, calling out to one another and swirling above our bikes before heading out to sea, circling back and settling on the beach behind us. I had my head back and looking skyward, and made an involuntary gurgling sound—the sound you’d expect to hear from a 3-year-old discovering ice-cream for the first time. Our spontaneous actions

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resulted in an excess of happiness that seemed to be involuntarily escaping me in the form of giggles, and I spread my fingers wide as if to catch pieces of sea breeze and magic as it swept past me. Making spontaneous choices that result in pure, giggly happiness is uncommon these days; it’s almost as though we’ve taught ourselves to feel undeserving of it. I challenge you to do something ridiculous that results in uncontrollable laughter or funny noises, for nothing more than the sake of being happy— because life is too short not to. At the end of the day, the type of happiness that stemmed from the small things made me question how our society has driven us to believe what happiness is and how it’s measured. Everyone is always striving for bigger, better and more: more money, more things, bigger cars, better jobs… hoping that the result will be one of satisfaction and happiness. The focus is always on the future and what you ‘could’ be, but seldom on the present and what you ‘are’. Is the future worth it if you spend unhappy years getting there? Learning how to appreciate and see the small things will add zest to your life; it’ll add spontaneity and laughter—and, in the process, make you and the people with whom you interact all the better for it. Sure, you should still strive for the big house, promotion at work and fancy car, but by noticing the small things along the way, and recognising alternative ways of being happy, the journey to your future will be a lot more fulfilling.

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ST E PHAN I E RO C H E

adventure on a budget Stephanie Roche shares five reasons you should go backpacking through India

Photographs by Yael Benjamin

It’s close to midnight, and we’re walking along the dirtiest railway platform I’ve ever seen. I’m still sweating in the heat that persists even at this late hour. Peering through the darkness, it’s difficult not to trip over the scattered piles of material that at first look like bags, but turn out to be sleeping humans. After eight hours of being too afraid to use the train toilet, we’re forced to use the station bathrooms. It’s difficult to breathe and the sinks look worse than the toilets, which are just holes in the floor. Welcome to India.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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S T EP H AN IE RO CHE

ravelling through India in this manner is not for the faint-hearted, I’ll admit. But if you’re ready for adventure, if you want to be thrown out of your comfort zone, if you want to be immersed in every possible taste and colour and smell—book your ticket today and start planning your trip…

…if you can handle the madness. You feel the heat as soon as you step off the plane at the Mumbai airport. The air is thick, weighing down heavily, and you start sweating before you’ve even lifted up your backpack. And then the noise begins: hooting from every direction, in every tune, from every vehicle in sight. There are no lanes, and drivers hoot to signal how close they are, not to show emotion. Tuk-tuks scurry wildly between trucks and cow-drawn carts. It’s almost always a near-death experience, especially if you’re the crossing pedestrian. There really is nothing like it

…if you’re looking for an eye-opening experience. India is not only well-known for its bustling and bold nature but

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also for the humanitarian crisis it represents. The country’s poverty is shocking, partly because of the extreme marginalisation of the physically disabled members of society. We stumble upon the causeway to the Haji Ali Dargah (tomb) by accident, drawn in by the stark white of the mausoleum, which seems to be floating on the water. By the time we realise what surrounds us, it’s too late; from midway along, the causeway is lined by men and women and children begging for money, all of them disfigured and severely disabled. The human body’s ability to survive under such circumstances is unbelievable. One man’s face is completely unrecognisable: a burnt mass and a bulging eyeball. We’re again reminded of the extent of poverty when we visit the industrial area of Dharavi, one of India’s (and the world’s) largest slums. This part of Mumbai is even madder than the rest—everything is rushing and alive and filthy. Nothing is still; nothing seems tired. There are people everywhere, in rooms stacked upon rooms stacked upon rooms. These dilapidated blocks of flats—if you can even call them that—seem to be heaving, about to fall in at any moment… but Mumbai does not

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

ST E PHAN I E RO C H E

give in. The buildings’ roofs are so close together that you can’t even see the smog-filled sky through the darkness. We have to bend under washing lines and jump over puddles, being careful not to fall sideways into the single-chamber houses. There are rooms filled with plastic rubbish to be sorted and melted, rooms where leather is to be cut and sewn. The rooms are tiny and unventilated, and men work for between 10 and 12 hours each day in the dark and stinking heat. It seems impossible that these industries even exist in this century.

…if you love walking barefoot. When I remember this meal with Stella’s family, I instantly recall the sight of her small front door, old and lined by tiny child-sized shoes. Removing one’s shoes is seen as a sign of respect in many places in India, from homes to ancient temples. Shoes are not to be brought inside even when safely enclosed in a backpack. I remember the feeling of the various cold floors, the rough stone and the warm carpets under my feet; sensations that still bring

…if you love exotic tastes. In many places in India, it’s custom to eat with your hands, and not in the cautious way that we Westerners use our fingers—Indian people dive right in. Food doesn’t just have colour and taste; it has texture that must be enjoyed and appreciated. Food is not to be laid out in separate little mounds; everything must be brought together in a beautiful and messy handful of flavour. Eating is fun. One of my favourite meals is a curry made by a woman living in the hills of the Munnar tea plantation. She invites us into her two-bedroom home, showing us how she desiccates the fresh coconut, and how her husband rolls out the chapatti breads himself on a table taking up most of their small bedroom. At the same time, their two children sit on the bed practising their reading and writing, peacefully working amid the smell of spices and clouds of white flour.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Women planting rice in the paddy fields just outside Hampi, South India; Rooftop sunset colouring the city of Bangalore; Rice plantations in the ancient village of Hampi; Fishing boats in Kochi, Kerala; Misty morning walk from Stella’s home in Munnar, Kerala— above the tea plantations; Sunrise bathing of the sacred elephants in Hampi THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Bath time under the rising Hampi sun; The outskirts of Mumbai’s Dharavi Slum, the third largest in the world; Young Keralan boy who stopped rolling his tyre up and down the hill to pose when Yael approached with her camera

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ST E PHAN I E RO C H E

Continue south if you want to see the backwaters of Kerala. Picture silent waterways wandering through wild jungle. The canals are overgrown and alive, and at every turn there’s something to see.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Stephanie relaxing after an afternoon spent exploring the tea plantations of Munnar, Kerala; Just another day in Mumbai; The tea plantations of Munnar house some of the world’s most renowned tea estates; A shop in Fort Kochi, a region that forms part of the water-bound areas toward the southwest of the mainland Kochi

back memories. Even when visiting an Indian hospital, piles of shoes greet us at the door. Tradition triumphs over pragmatism. …if you want to be surrounded by natural beauty. The Munnar tea plantation is just one of the natural marvels to be found in South India. If you enjoy walking, brave the trip up into this beautiful green region, a stark contrast to the bustling cities of the country. More experienced hikers can request routes to the higher hill stations, while the less ambitious can spend their days meandering through the dense tea, coffee and spice plantations. Away from the heat and the noise, Munnar and surrounds offer a tranquil, misty hideaway for those searching for some inner peace. Continue south if you want to see the backwaters of Kerala. Picture silent waterways wandering through wild jungle. The canals are overgrown and alive, and at every turn there’s something to see. Birds and small insects dart across the water’s surface, making the only sounds you’ll hear through the rich vegetation.

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If you want to see stretches of landscape in a short space of time, take the train. We cross hundreds of kilometres travelling along the Indian railways, in trains that are filthy and which rattle constantly. But the view makes up for the smell and the heat, and any other possible complaint. You can stand next to the open rusted train doors and keep your face against the rushing air, holding on tightly to the nearby metal bag racks. Rows and rows of palm trees decorate this tropical region of India, and every now and again you can see grassy areas dotted with buffalo. Women in the brightest colours break the sea of deep green as they work in the adjacent rice paddies. The beauty of this scenery at sunset is unimaginable unless you’ve seen it yourself. There’s an unabashed boldness in this country that’s not accidental; it’s a conscious confidence, a cheerful assertiveness. India is more alive than any other place I’ve seen—it vibrates with spirituality and purpose. There’s enough to repel many from this country, but far more to entice the adventurers, especially those looking for more than a holiday. If you ever have the urge to visit India—just go.

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ADVE R TO RI A L

seychelles beyond the beach With its 115 unique islands sprinkled across the Indian Ocean, its palm-fringed beaches and white sands, Seychelles is without a doubt the ultimate beach escape. But the destination is so much more... Photographs by Alphonse Island

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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ADVERTO RIA L

id you know that the islands offer some of the best scuba diving experiences as well as the most incredible fishing opportunities, including saltwater fly-fishing as well as deep-sea game fishing? So, step aside beach bums and make way for adventure travellers!

An angler’s paradise Seychelles has some of the richest fishing grounds in the world with an abundance of wahoo, sailfish, dorado, tuna, rainbow runner and trophies such as marlin. Anyone catching these big game fish will have the bragging rights when returning home. The waters in the Seychelles can test the abilities of even the most experienced angler—but for those who are not too sure what to do with a fishing rod and a lure, the destination offers a fantastic learning ground.

So, where do you go for the best fishing experience in the Seychelles? To be honest, you can’t go wrong anywhere on the islands. The Inner Islands offer exciting fishing opportunities for spectacular—and tasty—catches. At Bird and Denis Islands, the ocean floor plummets to 2 000 metres, but also the islands of Frégate to the east, North Island

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and Mahé’s lofty neighbour Silhouette offer fertile fishing grounds and the opportunity to catch a wide variety of fish. For avid fly anglers, the expansive flats surrounding the Alphonse atolls are considered ‘paradise’, and provide the fly-fishing experience of a lifetime. Ten thousand acres of hard white sand flats provide easy wading and world-class sight-fishing. You’ll be able to catch not only bonefish but also different types of triggerfish, giant trevally, barracuda, snapper, grouper, permit and even the elusive milkfish—Alphonse accounts for more than 90% of the world’s milkfish caught and released on an annual basis.

Unique diving experiences With dive sites ranging in depth from 8m to 30m, the Seychelles are the ideal diving destination for both experienced divers who want to see manta rays and sharks, and beginner bubble-makers who just want to see colourful fish and corals.

What can you expect to see in Seychelles waters? Angelfish, butterflyfish, octopus, lionfish, nudibranchs and mantis shrimp are common around the inner reefs. But, if you venture a bit further out, you could

see Napoleon wrasse, schools of humphead parrotfish, stingrays, reef sharks, and green and even hawksbill turtles. For the more adventurous divers, the remote outer islands offer a great opportunity to see sailfish, silvertip tetra, oceanic whitetip and nurse sharks, manta rays and whale sharks. If you’re really lucky, you may even spot a hammerhead shark. If wreck diving rocks your boat, the Ennerdale wreck between Mahé and Praslin is a great dive site. This British fleet auxiliary tanker sits between 18m and 30m and is a hive of activity: attracting eagle rays, sting rays, reef sharks and other pelagic schooling fish. Alphonse Island recently also made its debut in the diving space with the opening of a brand-new diving centre. The islands feature exceptional turtle sightings with very healthy breeding populations covering both atolls. Divers can expect huge schools of bluelined and humpback red snapper, bigeye trevally and even batfish to join them on their diving experience. The reefs are still untouched, pristine and teeming with activity—with many species of moray eel, shark, ray as well as large pelagic and reef fish. There are also good opportunities to search for macro creatures such as nudibranch, a variety of shrimp and scorpionfish, plus beautifully delicate pipefish.

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T R AVEL G E A R

The sun’s out and the l-o-o-o-ng summer holidays are finally upon us—plenty of time to get fit while exploring our beautiful country, writes Nick Dall

’Tis the season to BE active

Whether you’re a trail runner, mountain biker or triathlete, Cape Union Mart has your back! Its vast range of fitness watches, shoes, apparel and accessories means you can spend less time shopping and more time doing. Better still, if you shop online, you’ll enjoy free delivery—nationwide!

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Weighing in at 41g, this remarkable feat of engineering is proof that dynamite comes in small packages. The latest incarnation of the Forerunner crams all the features you’d expect from a fitness watch into a sleek package that’s as at home in Sandton as it is in the Serengeti. Garmin Elevate™ tech measures your heart rate at the wrist; smart notifications allow you to keep track of emails and Whatsapps while you’re pounding the tarmac; and advanced cycling, swimming and running dynamics mean you can keep an eye on the miniscule details that could be the difference between winning and losing.

The Runner 3 Cardio boasts features you’d find in more expensive competitors, but in a lightweight, stylish and user-friendly package. The biggest drawcard is the industry-leading wrist-based heart rate monitor, but there are other snazzy features like Route Exploration™ mode, which lets you run without fear of getting lost. Running, cycling and swimming modes make it perfect for events like Ironman, and real-time info on time, distance, speed, pace and calories burnt allows you to keep track of your performance. It also doubles as an activity tracker, 24/7.

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SUUNTO SPARTAN SPORT HR

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This adventure-proof GPS watch has a crystal-clear, full-colour touchscreen plus all the bells and whistles. With 80 different preprogrammed modes, it takes the term ‘multisport’ to the next level, and boasts a whopping 26-hour battery life in training mode. The Spartan Sport HR relies on an old-fashioned (but extremely accurate) chest strap to measure your heart rate, using this data to deliver extremely detailed and informative metrics. It is hand-built in Finland using titanium, steel and sapphire and is water-resistant to 100 metres.

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T RAVEL GEA R

T R AVEL G E A R SALOMON MEN’S SPEEDCROSS 4 SHOES

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The Salomon Speedcross is the most iconic trail-running shoe on the planet, and the latest model has a whole lot to get excited about. The Sensifit™ upper offers a fit that surpasses that of the proverbial glove, while the Quicklace™ technology means you’ll never have to stop to tie your laces. The tough Contagrip® outsole features enormous lugs, while the midsole is light enough for short, sharp ascents but also comfortable enough for multi-day Drakensberg sorties. If you’re one of the many who wondered whether the Speedcross 3 could ever be beaten, the answer is an emphatic ‘yes!’ Ladies will be relieved to know it comes in a women’s version, too.

ADIDAS WOMEN’S KANADIA TR8 SHOES adidas is a relative newcomer to the trail-running market, but the Kanadia TR8 has taken it right to the front of the pack. The grippy TRAXION™ outsole is built to handle the worst that Platteklip Gorge can throw at it, while the breathable air-mesh uppers will keep you cool and dry in those stifling KZN heat waves. And regardless of which province you’re running in, the soft-asa-feather cloudfoam midsoles will give your footsies the cushioning they deserve. The Kanadia TR8 really is the complete package, and there’s also a gents’ version. His and hers, anyone?

K-WAY 2L HYDRATION RESERVOIR

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Summer is an incredible time to explore the mountains, rivers and oceans of Mzansi, but you’ll have to keep yourself hydrated. This rapidfill hydration reservoir is compatible with most modern day-packs, making hands-free sipping a simple and affordable reality for all. It’s made from antibacterial medicalgrade silicone, and the hose has a quick-release mechanism for easy cleaning. Couple it with the K-Way Dart for an all-in-one hydration solution.

K-WAY MEN’S KNOX ACTIVE SHORTS

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K-WAY FLASH VISOR Everyone knows the damage that the harsh African sun can do to your face. A visor provides shade where you need it most, while also giving some much-needed ventilation at the top of your head. The K-Way Flash boasts an easy-to-adjust Velcro strap and a muchneeded moisture-wicking inner sweatband. Its synthetic construction makes it both quick-drying and long-lasting. Available in blue, black and red.

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You don’t know the meaning of pure comfort until you’ve run in a pair of K-Way Knox shorts. They’re made from state-of-the-art fabric that’s so lightweight, you won’t know it’s there; so stretchy that you’ll never feel restricted, and so quick-drying that you’ll only ever need one pair. This is coupled with an extremely wellthought out design that incorporates an oh-so-comfy gusset, cunning zip pockets for essentials like cash and energy gels, and an elasticated waistband. Perfect for everything from the Comrades to the Otter.

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T RAVEL GEA R

K-WAY 700ML INSULATED WATER BOTTLE

R199

The harsh Karoo sun may be beating down on your head, but there’s no need for your ice-cold refreshment to feel the heat as well. This 700ml insulated water bottle ticks all the boxes: It’s durable, it’s a pleasure to drink from, and its space-age foil inner keeps your drink colder for longer than other water bottles. An all-time favourite.

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K-WAY WOMEN’S PETIT MOISTURE MANAGER

ECOSOULIFE MULTIPURPOSE SCARF

The elegantly contoured K-Way Petit is a high-performance base layer that looks amazing. Made from a high-tech blend of polyester and spandex, the fabric excels at moisture management, which means your perspiration evaporates almost as soon as it forms—perfect for long, hot summer training sessions in the Magaliesberg, and extremely handy at reducing wind-chill factor if the Cape Doctor picks up. Reflective strips allow you to be seen at night, and additional underarm ventilation completes the package.

Whether you’re going skiing in Switzerland or 4x4ing in the Richtersveld, you’ll be stoked to receive one of these versatile little fellas this Christmas. Depending on your needs, it can be a scarf, a headband, a wrist warmer or a bandana… Made from recycled plastic bottles, its environmental credentials are second to none, plus it’s quick-drying, breathable, lightweight and anti-odour treated. Did we mention it looks great?

R299

K-WAY MEN’S REIKO MOISTURE MANAGER

R299

The hydrophilic Reiko Moisture Manager may look like a regular T-shirt, but closer inspection reveals some incredible secrets. Its main mission is to wick your sweat away from your skin as soon as it forms, keeping you drier for longer. But it also fits comfortably, and is made from an almost impossibly soft combination of polyester and spandex. For morning and evening runs in summer, the Reiko is all you need—but if you’re planning on pounding the gravel in the heat of the day, you should invest in a pair of K-Way Arm Coolers for all-round sun protection.

R140

K-WAY ARM COOLERS It’s amazing how such a simple product can totally transform your outdoor experience. The moisture-wicking K-Way Arm Coolers offer UPF50+ protection from the sun while keeping you cool and dry. What’s more, they provide extra warmth if the wind picks up. The best part? They’re small enough to fit in your pocket.

*All prices in this feature were correct at the time of going to print.

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Safely relocating a white rhino, Northern KwaZulu-Natal

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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L IFE T H RO UGH T H E L E NS

LIFE

THROUGH THE

In this edition of The Intrepid Explorer, we see the world through Em Gatland’s eyes

LENS

orn in Zimbabwe and raised in South Africa, Em Gatland travelled between the two countries throughout her childhood—forming a deep connection with the African landscape. It was on a trip to Morocco after her studies that she bought her first digital single-lens reflex camera—and first captured the world through a lens. The dimensions of richness, colour and culture became intoxicating. Being a “right-brain creative photographer”, Gatland says, enables her to combine her creativity with the technical knowhow to achieve the desired effect: storytelling through the lens.

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An emotive connection to the subject pulls one into the image to experience the moment in time in a most personal way. Her ongoing mission is to truly see the environment around her—from the big picture to the small detail—observing and capturing the little things that often are missed in our daily rush. Gatland is embarking on an exciting new venture in 2017, undertaking wildlife excursions with TravelJar Photographic Expeditions: leading adventures that will combine her passion for the visual with the outdoors, exploration, discovery and people. Contact Em Gatland via email: contact@emgatland.co.za and view her photographs on www.emgatland.com, Twitter (@egatland) and Instagram (EmGatland)

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

A wave of queleas take flight in the dry Botswana savannah, Ghoha Hills, Chobe National Park

Eye-piercing reflections at uMkhuze Game Reserve,Northern Zululand

Monarch of Lewa 1, Kenya

A cub in south Moremi escapes the heat, Okavango Delta, Botswana

Hidden wonders of a waterfall, Semonkong Lodge, Lesotho

Ethnicity, Etosha Plains

L IFE T HR O U G H T H E LE N S

Golden-hour sunset around the waterhole, uMkhuze Game Reserve, Northern Zululand

King of the Bushveld at the Africa on Foot Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve, Greater Kruger

The Intrepid Explorer issue 14

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O UT AN D A B O U T

on the

wild side

Here’s the inside scoop on the outside world! We look at some of the astounding feats accomplished by intrepid explorers young and old; the latest developments and products; as well as events and causes in which you, The Intrepid Explorer reader, can become involved. So get out there and make the most of the outdoors! Compiled by Robbie Stammers

RANDS TO RUN

To quote Katherine McNamara, “Remember to reach for the stars, and they won’t be able to resist flying into your hands!” This was Janse van Rensburg’s motto when he launched his R100/100km campaign in August 2015 to raise funds for one of the great passions in his life: the National Sea Rescue Institute. “I have always been a great supporter of the NSRI, and living in Gauteng there was simply no way I could be involved, other than to support financially. As luck would have it, I was instrumental in establishing the NSRI Base in Jeffreys Bay shortly after moving there in 2008, and have been serving as station commander since 2010,” he says. The idea behind the campaign was to do the type of fundraising he remembered from school, where friends and family would sponsor R1 for every lap you’d run around the athletics track. So why not take it a step further and ask people to sponsor R1 for every kilometre he’d run, he thought. Now it’s time for Janse van Rensburg’s biggest challenge ever: to complete four of South Africa’s most gruelling ultra-distance trail runs over a six-month period. He already ran the 100km Salomon SkyRun in November and the 100km Ultra-Trail Cape Town in December; next it’s the Addo Elephant Trail Run 100 Mile in March 2017, finishing with The Munga—a 400km single-stage trail run from Belfast to the Blyde River Canyon in April 2017.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

Janse van Rensburg hopes to raise a total of R100 000 for Sea Rescue Station 37, which will be used to purchase muchneeded swift-water and marine-extrication rescue equipment, as well as fund extensions to the existing boathouse. Over the past six years, NSRI Station 37 has been responsible for 124 rescue operations, resulting in 12 lives saved, 89 people assisted and five boats towed; a number of seals, penguins and numerous other marine animals have also been rescued. Visit www.R100100km.co.za to support the cause and follow Janse van Rensburg’s progress.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

Every bottle makes a difference Rhino Tears Wine has amassed an impressive R1 million since the launch of a marketing drive to raise funds to be used in the war against rhino poaching in South Africa’s national parks. The money raised has been paid over directly to SANParks Honorary Rangers, who have used the funds for anti-poaching projects in the parks. The Rhino Tears wine range, from the Mt Vernon Estate in Cape Town, sells at about R55 a bottle, with R15 from each sale going directly to SANParks Honorary Rangers. Wine lovers can be confident that 100% of the funds raised through sales are used for anti-poaching projects including the training of dogs used to track poachers on the ground, and purchasing equipment for field rangers. “Every bottle purchased really makes a difference,” says John Hooper, founder of Rhino Tears. “The cost of the anti-poaching war is expensive, and the men and women involved need all the support they can get to fight a ruthless enemy. We have the opportunity to save the rhino from extinction; never has the call been greater or the opportunity more urgent than it is now. Thank you to those who have helped us reach R1 million in donations.” Earlier this year, Rhino Tears funds contributed toward the delivery of two John Deere Gator Extreme Terrain Vehicles, valued at R700 000, for anti-poaching operations in the Kruger National Park. Funds also contributed to the delivery of equipment, valued at R1.6 million, to field rangers. This donation included tents, rifle slings, sleeping bags, camping and rifle-cleaning kits, backpacks and various other essentials for use by the rangers in anti-poaching operations. SANParks Honorary Rangers chairperson Louis Lemmer says: “In the war against poachers, rangers have to endure extreme hardships: being away from their families and facing constant dangers from poachers. So, if we as SANParks Honorary Rangers can make a difference, by making their work easier, we are adding to their effectiveness in the bush. The equipment supplied to the field rangers answers that need.” Rhino Tears is available around the country at Ultra Liquors, Makro, Tops, Spar, Fruit & Veg City and other major independent retailers, or order online at www.rhinotears.co.za. Also visit the website for further information about the wines and the anti-poaching initiatives.

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Tick two off the ol’ bucket list The world’s wildest continent is best explored on foot, by bike or on small pirogues powered by tribesmen. If remote and off-the-beaten tracks sound like your type of active adventure, here are some unique trips to consider: Central African Rainforests: A pristine exploration led by renowned guide Peter Comley into the heart of Africa’s largely inaccessible rainforests. Spend your days trekking one of only two habituated Western lowland gorilla groups in the world, or hiding out in a mirador overlooking the famous Dzangha Bai, hoping to capture the perfect image of the critically endangered forest elephant. This trip is not just another rugged adventure but a rare opportunity to engage with some of the most endangered wildlife and varied birdlife on planet Earth. Gorillas and Active Volcanoes: The opportunity to come face to face with endangered mountain gorillas in Rwanda—combined with a climb up Nyiragongo, an active bubbling volcano in the Democratic Republic of Congo—means you can tick two off the ‘once in a lifetime’ bucket list. Fish and Chimps: Trek for chimps in the remote forests lining the shores of Lake Tanganyika, and spend a few nights fly camping on the beaches of this mysterious body of water. Mountain Biking around Kilimanjaro: Cycle 400-odd kilometres on this five-day tour around Lake Chala and to Arusha National Park, including an overnight in Maasai huts at Olpopongi. Africa on Foot: Whether it’s exploring the harsh beauty of the Fish River Canyon in Namibia on a four-night hike, walking with camels through the Great Rift Valley in Kenya on a mobile camping safari, or following the treks of mighty herds on a walking safari through the Serengeti in Tanzania, savour the feeling of boundless freedom before falling asleep under the star-studded night sky. To book one of these incredible experiences, go to www.wildfrontiers.com.

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MUSIC UNDER THE MOUNTAIN The Kirstenbosch Summer Sunset Concerts have started again and run every Sunday until the beginning of April. The concerts are held on the lawns of the national botanical garden in Newlands, with spectacular views of the back of Table Mountain and surrounds. Visitors are encouraged to bring a picnic basket and a bottle of wine or bubbly to enjoy while they watch the sun set and listen to some of South Africa’s best live music performances. Concert line-up › Prime Circle – 26 December 2016 at 17h30 › Johnny Clegg / Slow Jack – 31 December 2016 at 20h30 › Mango Groove – 1 January 2017 at 17h30 › Zonke – 8 January 2017 at 17h30 › Matthew Mole / Jesse Clegg – 15 January 2017 from 17h15 › T he Cape Town Philharmonic Orchestra – 22 January 2017 at 17h30 › Lira – 29 January 2017 at 17h30 › Jeremy Loops – 5 February 2017 at 17h30 › Dan Patlansky – 12 February 2017 at 17h30 › Goldfish – 19 February 2017 at 17h30 › The Soil – 26 February 2017 at 17h30 › Karen Zoid & Francois van Coke – 5 March 2017 at 17h30 › C ape Folk ‘n Acoustic Music Festival – 12 March 2017 at 17h00 › Mi Casa – 19 March 2017 at 17h30 › Just Jinger – 21 March 2017 at 17h30 › Bobby & Karlien van Jaarsveld – 26 March 2017 at 17h15 › Shortstraw / Al Bairre – 2 April 2017 at 17h15 Concerts go ahead irrespective of rain. Tickets for all the concerts will be available online and at the gate on the day, depending on availability. Physical tickets will be on sale from the Tuesday before the concert at the Kirstenbosch Box Office. Tickets can also be purchased online at Webtickets.co.za. See www.sanbi.org for further details.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

CHOO CHOO TO CERES While the opportunity to time-travel is not (yet!) available to us, the opportunity to feel as though you have travelled back in time and enjoy an old-world experience on board an authentic vintage steam train is very possible. The Ceres Steam Train, run by the Ceres Rail Company, offers a unique and familyfriendly outing that will see passengers sitting back in comfort while travelling through some of the most spectacular scenery in the Witzenberg region. The departure point for the trip is opposite the Royal Cape Yacht Club in Table Bay Harbour, right next to the V&A Waterfront. The Ceres railway track, on which the Ceres Steam Train runs, was originally built in 1910, with construction completed in 1912. After many years of active service,

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it was later closed—only to be reopened in 2012. The train departs from the V&A Waterfront precinct and steams its way past vineyards, orchards, olive groves, mountains, wheat and canola fields. There’s even a bit of game to be viewed. Passengers can relax, spend time admiring the view, enjoy refreshments from the dining cart and leave all modern-day problems behind while the train chugs its way to Ceres. This trip is for all lovers of train travel, vintage enthusiasts, sightseers, families, friends, and in general anyone looking for a wonderful day out of the city that’s memorable, unique and fun. For enquiries, email bookings@ceresrail.co.za or check out www.ceresrail.co.za.

O UT AN D A B O U T

Plant and party

In March 2017, Greenpop will host its 7th annual Reforest Fest in the ancient Platbos Forest Reserve—a two-and-a-halfhour drive from Cape Town, between Gansbaai and Hermanus. But this isn’t just your ordinary festival; it’s a chance to (re)connect with yourself, your fellow humans and with nature, help plant thousands of trees, dance to amazing live music, learn from ecoworkshops, eat delicious food, and much more. In 2016, Greenpop planted 8 000 trees, and in 2017 it aims to plant another 8 000! The first event is the Family Weekend (10 to 12 March), created for parents and children to connect in nature while planting trees, enjoy great family entertainment and participate in activities for all ages. Unplug for some quality time in the great outdoors and learn more about the planet. The second is the Friends Weekend (17 to 19 March), ideal for people who would like to get their hands dirty and make a positive impact for the environment. As well as planting thousands of trees, fest-goers will enjoy eco-talks, yoga, live music and much more. Friends Weekend activities and talks are more tailored to adults, but all ages are welcome at both festival weekends. For details and to get your tickets, visit www.greenpop.org.

Love is in the (open) air The most romantic Valentine’s date ever will take place at the beautiful Nooitgedacht Wine Estate near Stellenbosch. The Galileo Open Air Cinema will treat lovers and loved ones to an intimate evening of live music, delicious artisanal treats and a movie under the stars. Snuggle up with a blanket and backrest on the estate lawns, enjoy some live music and then settle back to watch the sun set over the surrounding mountains, before the screening of When Harry Met Sally—the 1989 romcom classic. The Galileo is the pinnacle outdoor cinema in Cape Town and surrounding

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

Winelands. Each year, visitors come back to experience the bespoke settings and vast array of movie titles on offer. Valentine’s Day package Date: Tuesday, 14 February 2017 Cost: R190 per person Venue: Nooitgedacht Wine Estate, R304 between Stellenbosch and the N1 Time: Entry from 6 p.m.; movie starts when the sun goes down Includes: Backrest, blanket, live music, movie and a welcome drink

Book early at www.thegalileo.co.za to avoid missing out on what’s sure to be a memorable experience.

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O UT AN D ABOU T

LET’S PAINT SOME The Rhinos are Coming!!! (TRAC) is raising funds on the Thundafund crowdfunding platform to stage a Grand Rhino Launch Tour that will kick-start and promote The Rhinos are Coming!!! Art Exhibition. TRAC is a three-month world-class outdoor art exhibition in Cape Town that will run until mid-March 2017. It will feature 100 or more life-size painted rhino sculptures that will be exhibited on street corners, parks and public spaces all around the city and

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HIGHWAY TO AFRICA WE EXPLORE. OTHERS FOLLOW. DESIGNING SAFARIS FOR 25 YEARS.

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RHINOS! surrounds. The exhibition will raise funds and spread awareness of the plight of our rhinos. The Grand Rhino Launch Tour will get under way when 10 talented artists from our community transform their blank rhino sculptures into valuable works of art. These 10 golden rhino ambassadors will tour Cape Town and surrounds from 1 February through 31 March on a colourful flat-bed truck, stopping off in small towns and villages, flirting with the paparazzi, playing their favourite music, interviewing celebrities, and tasting wine at famous wine estates. The money raised through crowdfunding will pay for the first sculpted rhino clay model, the mould, and 10 life-size rhino sculptures cast from the mould. It will also cover an honorarium paid to the artists who will be painting the rhinos. The Grand Rhino Launch Tour, while publicising the TRAC initiative, will inspire businesses and individuals to sponsor the making and painting of the rhinos, which will form the basis of the exhibition. Janice Ashby, founder and programme director of TRAC, says: “Our dream amount to raise is R500 000, and our tipping point is R300 000. Crowdfunding works when hundreds of people back ideas and causes they like—with as little or as much as they can afford.” TRAC is offering great rewards for backers of the campaign, starting with a simple rhino keyring for a small contribution or a private wine tasting in your home for 12 people, up to larger rewards like a weekend for two at a game reserve. Backers will also be offered opportunities such as riding with the touring rhinos, having lunch at famous wine estates, meeting the artists as they work, plus other intriguing rewards. The Rhinos are Coming!!! Art Exhibition will enable the general public to join the war on poaching and to save our rhinos. Visit the Thundafund page at www.thundafund.com/project/ TRAC or email Janice: ja@therhinosarecoming.org.

TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA ETHIOPIA ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

O UT AN D A B O U T

TRAVEL WITH

THULE When you’re travelling, you want to live in the moment. The Thule Chasm collection is the ideal companion on any travel adventure, big or small. Available in four sizes—small (40L), medium (70L), large (90L) and extra-large (130L)— the versatile, robust and stylish bag will hold just about anything. Thule Chasm gives you the flexibility of a conventional duffel on your shoulder or as a backpack when you want to head off on an adventure. The padded straps feature an improved latch, allowing them to remove quickly and stay more secure when on the go. What’s more, the daisy-chain lash points make it possible to attach the duffel to a roof basket, or add gear to the bag. The oversized, wide mouth opening and practical side access make the Chasm easy to pack and easy to get to your gear. There’s a lockable, zippered side pocket plus convenient interior mesh pockets for organising smaller items and making them even easier to reach.

And rest assured that your gear is always safe and secure: The Thule Chasm is made from a durable waterproof tarpaulin fabric that protects contents from the elements and also folds for easy storage. Available at Cape Union Mart stores or through Thule direct. Find more info at www.thule.com.

THE TUFF ONE RETURNS!

The iNguni cattle trails are carved into the historic land, where culture and atmosphere are interwoven in the scenery and tranquillity. The endless rolling green hills of this wild coastline and the swelling riverbanks are just some of the beauty this land holds—creating the perfect playground for the Transkei Tuff 150km Adventure Race. The Transkei Tuff debuted in February 2016, welcoming athletes from all over South Africa to the exciting and purely adventurous event. Teams of two or four endured the task of navigating through the Transkei on a course that took them through unforgettable parts of Wild Coast paradise. A total of 150 kilometres await those who are ‘tuff’ enough to challenge this unrelenting terrain. Mountain biking, trekking, abseiling, orienteering and kayaking are some of the disciplines required to compete and prove that your team has what it takes. The race village will once again be at Wavecrest Beach Hotel & Spa, an ideally situated hotel on the banks of the Nxaxo River, overlooking a pristine mangrove estuary and surrounded by magnificent dune forests and endless expanses of beach. As host to the Transkei Tuff event, Wavecrest Beach Hotel & Spa creates a spectator-friendly environment for families and friends looking to cheer on their loved ones. This year, Won Adventure is offering early-bird entries until 31 December 2016. Normal entry for the 2017 Transkei Tuff is officially open until 31 March 2017, and is limited to the first 25 teams. Enter online at www.wonadventure.co.za.

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THE DIGITAL VERSION OF

The Intrepid Explorer

IS NOW AVAILABLE ON APPLE IPAD AND ANDROID TABLETS www.intrepidexplorer.co.za • Summer 2016/2017 Edition R29.90 Incl. VAT

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THE NEXT TOP SA ADVENTURER? EVEREST SUMMITER 2nd Quarter Edition 2015

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› LIVING TRADITIONS – Kingsley Holgate explores cultural practices of Ethiopian tribes › ADVENTURE ON A BUDGET – 5 reasons to backpack through India › A WALK THROUGH TIME – Into the ruins of the once-great Lycia › VIEW FROM THE TRACKS L E E –DAll E Naboard H O N Dthe Trans-Siberian Express › GREY GHOST OF THE HIMALAYA – In search of the elusive snow leopard

Doing kids

LEE DEN HOND

IT FOR THE

Lee den Hond took on an epic journey of her own to change the journey of others

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

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The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

O UT AN D A B O U T

CHECKED OUT Editor Robbie Stammers shares a favourite travel destination that should not be missed

The secret of Suurbraak Letting you in on this very special place almost makes me want to stop writing and hit the delete button. It’s like a surfer divulging his best private offshore break, or a fly-fisherman revealing the best spot on a secluded river that stocks heaps of wild trout. Frankly, you too would rather keep the place all to yourself! Nestled between the Buffelsjags River and Caledon stream lies Suurbraak’s Secret. Enveloped by nature, water, loads of birds and free-roaming cattle, the little hideaway is ideal for a break from the city. This wonderful accommodation is at the far end of the quaint town of Suurbraak, a 200-year-old mission station near

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

Swellendam. Here, time has stood still as the community still farms and ploughs the way their forefathers did, using a horsedrawn cart. Here is where people stop to chat and children play freely. And here is where you can refresh your soul. Its location provides a wonderful opportunity to explore the hamlet and retreat over the river—to the serene sounds of nature and church bells in the distance. Suurbraak’s Secret is a delightfully cosy, tastefully furnished split-level house that caters comfortably for seven. One of the best things for us was the entertainment area outside, with its superb fire-pit boma and an authentic Dover stove in which we

made our own bread. This area leads to a huge deck with views of the Langeberg Mountains. For the kids (and dads), there’s an amazing tree house as well as a play area, nursery and huge, treed garden with an orchard. From the bottom of the property, one can go out the gate and head down to the river, or take a run, walk or hike in the area. Truly a gorgeous place to escape the hustle and bustle and unwind. I cannot recommend it more highly. For further details and bookings, go to www.suurbraaksecret.co.za.

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LEARN ENGLISH ON TOUR

CAPE TOWN WWW.MUIZENBERGTOURS.CO.ZA

+27 (0) 21-788-1950 | info@muizenbergtours.co.za

www.themuize.co.za #lovemuizenberglife

THE MUIZE MANSION CULTURAL CENTRE

A LIFE CHANGING EDUCATIONAL TOUR

Experience Cape Town whilst learning English on a course speciﬁcally designed to help you navigate everyday life as a tourist. Here you will have the chance to learn English over two weeks with our cer�ﬁed TEFL English tutors whilst prac�sing your language skills on various Cape Town tours. Learn it in the morning, use it in real life in the a�ernoon. You will be supported and assisted at all �mes. The Muize campus located in Muizenberg, Cape Town has everything that could be wished for in a learning environment - mountain, river and ocean views provide a rich natural backdrop to your morning classes. Your luxurious accommoda�on at The Muize Bed and Breakfast - just a few doors down - is an excellent, central, seaside loca�on from which to venture forth to the many places of interest our tours will take you to. Once you arrive at Cape Town Interna�onal airport we take care of everything for you.

comfortable aﬀordable guesthouse accommoda�on

+27(0)21-788-1950

themuize@gmail.com

www.themuize.co.za

4 Axminster Rd, Muizenberg

EXPLORE CAPE TOWN WITH US BOOKING OFFICE

GUIDED TOURS

SHUTTLE SERVICES

TOUR SCHEDULE

Sunday - Arrive Cape Town Interna�onal Airport, transfer to hotel DAILY PROGRAMME Monday to Friday 0800 Breakfast Buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 0900 Classes at The Muize Mansion, 3 x 45min sessions 1230 Light Lunch at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 1300 Cape Town Tours & Experiences (see schedule) 1800 Re-cap by language tutor and light supper or transfer to restaurants Saturday 0700 Breakfast buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast 0800 to 1800 - Full day tour (see schedule) Sunday 0800 Breakfast Buffet at The Muize Bed and Breakfast then free �me 1400 A�ernoon ac�vity (see schedule) Monday Check-out, airport drop off and final farewell WEEK TWO

WEEK ONE HISTORICAL MUIZENBERG WALKING TOUR CAPE PENINSULA AND BOULDERS TABLE MOUNTAIN AND LONG STREET LOCAL VOLUNTEER PROGRAMME STELLENBOSCH WINELANDS EXPERIENCE FULL DAY GAME VIEWING WITH OPTIONS KIRSTENBOSCH EVENING CONCERT

MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN

SURFING LESSON AND BEACH DAY MONKEY TOWN V&A WATERFRONT & DIAMOND WORKS KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS TOWNSHIP ARTS EXPERIENCE FULL DAY SHARK VIEWING + OPT. CAGE DIVE FOND FAREWELL AND AWARD CEREMONY

PRIVATE DAY TOURS

CREATE YOUR IDEAL SIGHTSEEING TOUR WITH US. TOURS CAN INCLUDE:

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HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K

big

A guided tour of the new, exciting vehicles that have been spotted on our roads recently

Like the Big 5 in the bush, these vehicles have unique characteristics: some may be featured for their strength and speed, and others for their comfort and size.

Plug in to power – BMW 740i “So is that streamlined, Dad?” asks my 7-year-old son as I fiddle at my desk with the BMW 740i that’s really my laptop mouse. “Pretty much,” I answer, trying to explain the difference in performance made by the smooth, sleek curves. It’s a task made easier by comparing it to my squared-off Nissan X-Trail, or his mother’s Opel, because the 740i is seriously sleek, making light work of the Cape Peninsula’s notorious winds. And that goes for all the just-released BMW plug-in hybrid iSeries. Despite its being a hybrid, with 20% of its power coming from electric battery cells, there’s no shortfall in vroom in the 740i—a way of popular ignorant thinking long ago dispelled by Elon Musk’s fully electric Tesla.

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The drive modes on offer, although nothing new to modern automobiles, allow the driver to access the most efficient mode instantly, Auto-Route choosing which mode to engage; 80km/h is the maximum speed afforded by the electric battery, after which the combustion engine automatically kicks in. The responsible adult settles in with Max e-Drive, which engages the most fuelefficient mode. The full range of modes is offered across the ‘I’ series, including the uber-sporty BMW i8—but the temptation to feel the throaty grunt in the sleek sportster, after sliding in sideways through its beetle-wing doors, can be distracting. This vehicle, chassis hugging the tar as we growl in

electric bursts down Baden Powell Drive, is a serious looker, and leaps forward at the accelerator’s touch. Off the highways, however, as on Boyes Drive, we did feel the uneven road surface. However beautiful these vehicles look, the obvious question to be asked with this range will be a practical one: Where do you charge the batteries? While my first thought would be to ask Toyota Prius owners for what will surely be interesting anecdotes, the answer lies more in the hands of daily economics; the more of such vehicles sold, the more fuel-charging stations there will be. At an average two hours per charging session at a wall box (we stopped at the V&A Waterfront Chargenow station), that’s

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a fair wait, which got me to thinking about queues. There are apparently 22 such stations at 22 BMW dealerships around the country, but apparently for R25 000 added to the price of R1.9 million, a consultant will instal one at your home. The i8 has everything you’d expect of a BMW performance vehicle, and you don’t pay for the climate-control automatic air conditioning, variable cam-valve timing or the heated ventilated seats. The on-board computer multi-information display is a

treat, dragging the driver into the modern driving era, as is the default ‘I’ Series feature on the windscreen available only to the driver. It shows off the speed limit and the speed being driven, without the driver shifting eyeline. Think Tom Cruise waving his hands at the screen in Minority Report… although you won’t be doing any waving. When I sat behind the wheel of the previous-generation X5 for our final stretch home from Somerset West to the airport,

I really missed it. If I had to dwell on a negative, I wouldn’t enjoy being in the rear of the 740i because of the relatively limited window space, which I find lends itself to claustrophobia. Whichever of the manufacturers owns the technological advances in motoring, the iSeries is a sleek step in the right environmental direction. —Angus Begg

Price tag › BMW 740i

R975 500

Family versatility – Opel MOKKA X Opel’s compact SUV gets a pre-Christmas makeover, and it’s the ideal stocking filler for the young at heart who want the solid quality and precision of a Germanengineered product in a compact package. Already well-established as an urban warrior with over 600 000 sales globally and more than 2 600 in South Africa, part of the update is a name change: It’s now the MOKKA X. The uppercase style is illustrative of an even bolder approach to modern motoring, while the X in the nomenclature is the new global identifier for future Opel SUV and crossover vehicles. Aimed at drivers looking for a vehicle that’s safe, family-oriented and powerful, the MOKKA X merges functionality, connectivity, technology and safety in a vehicle that’s just 4.28m from bumper to bumper. A key highlight and most obvious change is the move to new headlight clusters that combine daytime running lamps and LED technology. Opel is a leader in this field, and the MOKKA X takes advantage of this to provide owners with a dusk-to-dawn safety advantage and 24-hour illumination. The mechanicals remain unchanged, along with the four-model lineup of Enjoy and Cosmo trim choices in either manual or automatic. Powering all four MOKKA X derivatives is Opel’s proven 1.4-litre four-cylinder turbocharged ECOTEC petrol engine, which produces 103kW between 4 900 and 6 000 rpm and 200Nm between 1 850 and 4 900 rpm. Zero to 100km/h is reached in 9.8 seconds, with a top speed of 196km/h for the 6-speed manual models. For the two models equipped with the 6-speed automatic transmission, the 0–100km/h

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sprint is achieved in 10.7 seconds, and they carry a top speed of 191km/h. Average fuel economy on the new MOKKA X 1.4T Enjoy manual is an impressive 5.9 litres per 100km, with the MOKKA X 1.4T Enjoy automatic consuming 6.2 litres per 100km on the combined cycle. The MOKKA X 1.4T Cosmo manual sips 6.0 litres per 100km; the MOKKA X 1.4T Cosmo automatic returns a combined cycle average figure of 6.5 litres per 100km. The Cosmo now boasts a high-end infotainment system with R4.0 IntelliLink and a driver display; this connectivity package is compatible with a wide range of media platforms via USB input, and is offered as an option on the Enjoy. Optional on the Cosmo is Navi 900 IntelliLink, which includes a full-colour display. The seamless integration of the user’s mobile device

makes the MOKKA X the best-connected compact SUV in South Africa. The MOKKA X update will help it remain a popular choice. Compact packaging with clever proportions along with the high seating position, extra space, versatility and go-anywhere nature of an SUV have been well-received. All new Opel MOKKA X derivatives are backed by Opel Complete Care with a comprehensive five-year/120 000km warranty, and come with a five-year/ 90 000km service plan linked to service intervals of 15 000km. —Robbie Stammers

Price tags › › › ›

MOKKA X 1.4T Enjoy 6MT MOKKA X 1.4T Enjoy 6AT MOKKA X 1.4T Cosmo 6MT MOKKA X 1.4T Cosmo 6AT

R317 500 R328 400 R357 400 R368 100

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

HIT T HE ROA D , J AC K Simply styling – Mercedes-Benz SLC 300 The Mercedes-Benz SLC is not an all-new car, but a refreshed version of the SLK, which now conforms to the company’s new naming structure. SL indicates it’s a roadster, while the C denotes the class to which it belongs—much like the now-familiar GLC and GLE, and so forth. The SLC builds on the foundation of the SLK and brings a fresh look to the road with a completely new, more masculine front section: the steeply raked radiator grille á la SLS elongating the appearance of the arrow-shaped bonnet, and a revised diamond-effect grille. The headlights have been restyled, too, and now feature integrated LED daytime running lights. The taillights are new, and the rear bumper has been revised along with the dual-outlet exhaust system. The SLC is also fitted with an improved retractable hard top that can open or close at speeds up to 40km/h.

Much of the interior is similar to that of the SLK, but you’ll find a new multifunction sports steering wheel and a revised instrument cluster to keep things fresh. Interior materials include aluminium trim and carbon-fibre detailing, while the seats are wrapped in a combination of leather and Nappa leather. A 7-inch COMAND infotainment system is also fitted. Also standard are systems such as Active Brake Assist (previously known as Collision Prevention Assist Plus), and Attention Assist.

The car’s engine is the higher-powered version of Benz’s trusty turbocharged 2.0-litre four-cylinder, delivering 180kW and 370Nm. It’s quite quick, too, reaching 100km/h in only 5.8 seconds, with a top speed of 250km/h. You may not be able to fit a lot into the SLC 300, but you’ll look damn good driving it! —Robbie Stammers

Price tag › Mercedes-Benz SLC 300

R753 400

A great all-rounder – 2017 VW Tiguan

The new Tiguan’s distinctive styling redefines its class and confidently points the way to the future. It’s the first Volkswagen SUV to sit on the now familiar MQB, or Modularer Querbaukasten (modular transverse matrix) platform, which means it benefits from the latest available technology and shares much of

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its underpinnings with other successful new models such as the award-winning Golf and Passat. The vehicle remains capable off-road, with a rugged 4MOTION all-wheel-drive system that includes premium-class technology for use on and off road. With its new 4MOTION Active Control, the Tiguan

guarantees smooth acceleration and an exciting driving experience in all situations and on every type of driving surface. The completely redesigned model benefits from a broad engine selection. At launch, the new Tiguan will be offered in two 1.4 TSI engines: 92kW and 110kW. The 2.0 TDI engines with 81kW, 105kW and 130kW as well as the range-topping 2.0 TSI with 162kW. The high-powered engines will be offered with 4MOTION drive system as standard. The new car will be offered in three equipment levels of Trendline, Comfortline and Highline. A spacious interior paired with a significant gain in boot space—when the rear bench is folded the cargo space, at 1 655 litres, is now 145 litres larger than its predecessor—makes for even more practicality in everyday use. With this car, Volkswagen is introducing a completely new design character for its SUVs, which combines striking proportions with a clear commitment to sophistication and authority. Safety is paramount in all VW passenger cars, and the Tiguan includes driver and

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H IT T H E ROAD, JACK

front passenger airbags, an airbag curtain system as well as front-seat side-impact airbags. Hazard lights flash automatically under hard braking, while Electronic Stability Control, XDS transverse differential lock and fatigue detection (Rest Assist) are all standard. The new Tiguan, like all Volkswagen cars based on the MQB platform, also comes with the automatic post-collision braking system that helps to avoid dangerous secondary collisions. The 2017 Tiguan received a five-star rating from Euro NCAP, making it one of Europe’s safest cars. The overall safety rating was aggregated from the vehicle’s results in occupant protection for adults and children, pedestrian protection, and driver assistance systems. Manual air conditioning, electric front and rear windows, cruise control, front fog lights, leather multifunction steering wheel, connectivity package (Bluetooth & USB interface) and roof rails are among the many standard-fit features on all models in the range. As sporty and rugged as the latest model appears, it is still uncompromising when it comes to comfort. It can be customised with a number of optional convenience features such as panoramic sunroof, electrically detachable towbar, LED-mid headlights package, R-Line exterior package with 19-inch Sebring alloy wheels, Head-up display, parallel parking assistance with rear-view camera, Active Info Display, 8-inch Discover Pro Radio with satellite navigation system, 6.5-inch Radio/CD Composition Media, adaptive cruise control with front assist, App-connect, ambient light package, leather seats with electric adjustment, DynAudio Premium sound system, keyless locking and engine-starting system, electric tailgate, and adaptive cruise control. As always, VW delivers with this new Tiguan. —Robbie Stammers

Price tags › 1 .4 TSI 92kW Trendline Manual R378 000 › 1 .4 TSI 92kW Comfortline Manual R419 000 › 1 .4 TSI 110kW Comfortline DSG R457 680

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Rugged and sporty – 2016 Honda BR-V While instantly recognisable as a member of the Honda family, the new BR-V features bold, distinctive styling and a sporty, agile appearance linked to the raised stance and rugged appeal expected of a SUV. Front and rear bumper garnishes, roof rails and 16-inch wheels are key visual elements, while the striking front grille—with its bold, chromeembellished cross-bar, prominent Honda logo and streamlined headlights— endow the vehicle with a distinctive personality that’s unmistakably Honda. Inside, the cabin’s roomy dimensions allow the introduction of a third seating row, boosting the BR-V’s occupant seating capacity to seven. Access to all seating positions is easy and convenient, thanks to split seat rows that can be tumbled forward at the pull of a lever. The fold-and-tumble convenience of the middle and rear seating rows also provides exceptional versatility, allowing owners to configure the vehicle in different ways, depending on the seating capacity and luggage space required. The interior utilises premium materials and finishes for a smart, upmarket ambience. Even the entry-level Trend derivative offers air conditioning, front and rear electric windows, and remote keyless entry. A four-speaker audio system with USB connectivity is also standard, and mobile phones can be linked to the system via Bluetooth.

Active and passive safety is also addressed via ABS anti-lock brakes, dual front airbags and inertia-reel seat belts for all but the second-row centre seating position (which gets a lap belt). All derivatives of the new Honda BR-V are powered by the same, efficient 1.5-litre four-cylinder engine. The SOHC unit uses Honda’s i-VTEC variablevalve technology to produce 88kW of maximum power at 6 600 rpm, together with a torque peak of 145Nm at 4 600 rpm. BR-V buyers get to choose between a six-speed manual gearbox and Honda’s refined Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT). In the case of the latter, paddle shifts are provided for manual shifting between the CVT’s virtual ratios. An all-round superb vehicle. —Robbie Stammers

Price tags › H onda BR-V 1.5 Trend Manual R238 900 › Honda BR-V 1.5 Comfort Manual R252 900 › Honda BR-V 1.5 Comfort CVT R268 300 › Honda BR-V 1.5 Elegance Manual R272 900 › Honda BR-V 1.5 Elegance CVT R288 300

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STOR E L IS TI N G

WESTERN CAPE STORES Bayside Mall, Blouberg (021) 556-3861 bayside@capeunionmart.co.za Blue Route Mall, Tokai (021) 712-5979 blueroute@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk, Century City (021) 555-2846 canalwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Canal Walk Adventure Centre (021) 555-4629 cwac@capeunionmart.co.za CapeGate Shopping Centre, Brackenfell (021) 982-2000 capegate@capeunionmart.co.za Cavendish Square, Claremont (021) 674-2148 cavendish@capeunionmart.co.za Constantia Village (021) 794-0632 constantia@capeunionmart.co.za Gardens Centre (021) 461-9678 gardens@capeunionmart.co.za Mill Square, Stellenbosch (021) 886-4645stellenbosch@ capeunionmart.co.za Mountain Mill Mall, Worcester (023) 347-1484 worcester@capeunionmart.co.za Paarl Mall (021) 863-4138 paarl@capeunionmart.co.za Somerset Mall (021) 852-7120 somersetwest@capeunionmart.co.za Tygervalley Shopping Centre (021) 914-1441 tygervalley@capeunionmart.co.za V&A Waterfront Quay Four (021) 425-4559 quayfour@capeunionmart.co.za V&A Waterfront Travel & Safari (021) 419-0020 waterfront@capeunionmart.co.za West Coast Mall, Vredenburg (022) 713-4113 weskus@capeunionmart.co.za GARDEN ROUTE Garden Route Mall, George (044) 887-0048 gardenroute@capeunionmart.co.za Knysna Mall (044) 382-4653 knysna@capeunionmart.co.za Langeberg Mall, Mossel Bay (044) 695-2486 mosselbay@capeunionmart.co.za The Market Square, Plettenberg Bay (044) 533-4030 marketsquare@capeunionmart.co.za

Hemingways Shopping Centre, East London (043) 726-0908 hemingways@capeunionmart.co.za

NORTH WEST STORES Brits Mall (012) 250-1909 brits@capeunionmart.co.za

Walmer Park Shopping Centre, PE (041) 368-7442 walmer@capeunionmart.co.za

Matlosana Mall, Klerksdorp (018) 462-0711 matlosanamall@capeunionmart.co.za

Vincent Park, East London (043) 726-2900 vincentpark@capeunionmart.co.za

MooiRivier Mall, Potchefstroom (018) 293-1788 mooirivier@capeunionmart.co.za

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Mall@Reds, Centurion (012) 656-0182 redsmall@capeunionmart.co.za Mall of Africa, Midrand (010) 592 2210 mallofafrica@capeunionmart.co.za

Mall of the South, Aspen Hills Waterfall Mall, Rustenburg (011) 682 2361 KWAZULU-NATAL STORES (014) 537-3651 mallofthesouth@capeunionmart.co.za Boardwalk Inkwazi Shopping Centre, waterfall@capeunionmart.co.za Menlyn Park Richardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay (012) 368-1015 (035) 789-0321 LIMPOPO STORES menlyn@capeunionmart.co.za boardwalk@capeunionmart.co.za Lephalale Mall Nicolway Bryanston Galleria Mall, Durban (014) 763-1278 (011) 706-7573 (031) 904-2318 lephalale@capeunionmart.co.za nicolway@capeunionmart.co.za galleria@capeunionmart.co.za Mall of the North, Polokwane Northgate Shopping Centre Gateway World, Durban (015) 265-1067 (011) 794-1022 (031) 566-5111 mallofthenorth@capeunionmart.co.za northgate@capeunionmart.co.za gateway@capeunionmart.co.za

OR Tambo International Airport GAUTENG STORES (011) 390-3245 Atterbury Value Mart, Pretoria ortambo@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 991-3171 atterbury@capeunionmart.co.za Rosebank Mall Midlands Mall, Pietermaritzburg (011) 442-1959 Bedford Centre, Johannesburg (033) 342-0152 rosebank@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 615-3097 midlands@capeunionmart.co.za bedford@capeunionmart.co.za Sandton City The Pavilion, Westville (011) 884-9771 Brooklyn Mall, Pretoria (031) 265-1666 sandton@capeunionmart.co.za (012) 460-5511 pavilion@capeunionmart.co.za brooklyn@capeunionmart.co.za The Glen Shopping Centre, Oakdene Watercrest Mall, Durban (011) 436-1300 Mall@Carnival, Brakpan (031) 763-1489 theglen@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 915-0470 watercrest@capeunionmart.co.za carnivalmall@capeunionmart.co.za The Grove Mall, Pretoria (012) 807-0642 NORTHERN CAPE STORES Centurion Mall thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za Diamond Pavilion Shopping Mall, (012) 663-4111 Kimberley centurion@capeunionmart.co.za Vaal Mall, Vanderbijlpark (053) 832-3846 (016) 981-5186 Clearwater Mall, Roodepoort diamondpavilion@capeunionmart.co.za vaalmall@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 675-0036 Kalahari Mall, Upington clearwater@capeunionmart.co.za Wonderpark Shopping Centre, Pretoria (054) 331-3631 (012) 549-4203 Cradlestone, Krugersdorp kalaharimall@capeunionmart.co.za wonderpark@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 662-1530 Kathu Village Mall cradlestone@capeunionmart.co.za Woodlands Boulevard, Pretoria (053) 723-2736 (012) 997-6960 Cresta Shopping Centre kathu@capeunionmart.co.za woodlands@capeunionmart.co.za (011) 478-1913 Kuruman Mall cresta@capeunionmart.co.za kuruman@capeunionmart.co.za BOTSWANA STORES Eastgate Adventure Centre Francistown, Pick n Pay Centre (011) 622-8788 00267-241-0398 FREE STATE STORES egac@capeunionmart.co.za francistown@capeunionmart.co.za Loch Logan Waterfront, Bloemfontein East Rand Mall, Boksburg (051) 430-0230 Gamecity Lifestyle Shopping Centre (011) 826-2408 lochlogan@capeunionmart.co.za Gaborone eastrandmall@capeunionmart.co.za 00267-391-0948 Mimosa Mall, Bloemfontein Forest Hill City, Centurion gamecity@capeunionmart.co.za (051) 444-6060 (012) 668-1030 mimosa@capeunionmart.co.za Riverwalk Mall, Gaborone foresthill@capeunionmart.co.za 00267-370-0040 Dihlabeng Mall, Bethlehem Fourways Mall riverwalk@capeunionmart.co.za (058) 303-1372 (011) 465-9824 dihlabeng@capeunionmart.co.za fourways@capeunionmart.co.za NAMIBIA STORES Maerua Mall, Windhoek Greenstone Shopping Centre MPUMALANGA STORES 00264-612-20424 (011) 609-0002 Highveld Mall, Emalahleni windhoek@capeunionmart.co.za greenstone@capeunionmart.co.za (013) 692-4018 La Lucia Mall (031) 562-0523 Lalucia@capeunionmart.co.za

highveld@capeunionmart.co.za

iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;langa Mall, Nelspruit (013) 742-2281 EASTERN CAPE STORES ilanga@capeunionmart.co.za Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth Middelburg Mall (021) 886-5262 (013) 244-1040 baywest@capeunionmart.co.za middelburg@capeunionmart.co.za Fountains Mall, Jeffreys Bay Riverside Mall, Nelspruit (042) 293-0005 (013) 757-0338 fountainsmall@capeunionmart.co.za nelspruit@capeunionmart.co.za Greenacres Shopping Centre, PE Secunda Mall (041) 363-1504 (017) 634-7921 greenacres@capeunionmart.co.za secunda@capeunionmart.co.za

Kolonnade Shopping Centre, Pretoria (012) 548-9811 kolonnade@capeunionmart.co.za

Heidelberg Mall (016) 341-2031 heidelberg@capeunionmart.co.za

The Grove Mall of Namibia 00264-612-53161 thegrove@capeunionmart.co.za

Hyde Park Corner (011) 325-5038 hydepark@capeunionmart.co.za

OUTLET STORES Access Park, Cape Town (021) 674-6398 accesspark@capeunionmart.co.za

Irene Village Mall (012) 662-1133 irene@capeunionmart.co.za Killarney Mall (011) 646-7745 killarney@capeunionmart.co.za

Woodmead Value Mart, Johannesburg (011) 656-0750 woodmead@capeunionmart.co.za

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T H E L AS T L AUG H

Kofte and kebabs Graham Howe stops for a bite in Marrakesh on his grand tour of the imperial cities of Morocco

ou can buy almost anything while doing lunch in the old casbah in Casablanca. A colourful pageant of hawkers pass our pavement café, pulling barrows laden with olives, dates, vegetables, bread, yoghurt, strawberries, cherries and melons. A water carrier in exotic Aztec dress sells his fare by the goblet—but we stick to our bottled water. He calls out to me, “Hey, Ali Baba! Is the big man with the beard thirsty?” Casablanca passes by our table. Imitating the locals, we buy bread and nectar-sweet melon to augment our lunch of kebabs. A haze of smoke from charcoal barbecues swirls over the row of informal street stalls. The spicy aroma of roasted kebabs and kofte seduces us with our first taste of spicy Moroccan cuisine in the marketplace. Sipping sweet mint tea, we dip chunks of bread into a bowl of fiery harissa and enjoy an exotic lunch over a Casablanca concerto of car hooters, hawkers and muezzins. The meat market in the medina is not for the squeamish. When I ask what kind of meat we’re eating, our guide laughs and points out the bloody carcasses hanging over each stall: a grisly camel head swaying grotesquely on a long neck, a severed horse’s head, and a sheep’s head. Our guide asks, “What kind of meat would you like? Look at the eyes. It is all very fresh…”—but suddenly I’m not feeling that hungry anymore. If you’re looking for Rick’s Café, you’ll find it near the waterfront on one of the wide boulevards reminiscent of Paris. Bogey and the piano man are long gone, but film buffs will find a complete reconstruction of the Casablanca movie set (even though all the scenes were shot in Hollywood). Built a decade ago, Rick’s Café is a relative newcomer to the old city of white-washed houses which the locals call “Casa” for short. We visit the old central market on Rue Colbert in the art-deco district. I buy a kilo of olives from the barrels of green, yellow, black and sun-dried little oval fruits rubbed with harissa, parsley, salt and spices. Casablanca is famous for its seafood,

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and the market is piled high with oysters (called “pearls”), squid, octopus, sardines, shellfish and, to our horror, trays of live tortoises squirming on ice. A culinary delicacy, 10 000 of these animals are consumed annually in Morocco. No pie for me. Our grand tour of the imperial cities of Morocco— Rabat, Meknes, Fes and Marrakesh—takes us on a 1 000-kilometre road trip from the coast to the Middle and High Atlas Mountains. We journey through the four capitals that were the old regional strongholds of the sultans of Morocco. Azzedin, our guide, is a big-band jazz fan, who plays the Sultans of Swing on our trip. He laughs, “Why photograph me? I am not Omar Sharif. I don’t play bridge, I don’t own horses and I don’t have a harem!” We come across a women’s agricultural co-operative out in the country. Berber peasants press the local argan nut into valuable oil used in cosmetic creams by the West’s top beauty brands. The fruit of Argania spinosa, grown in a protected Unesco biosphere, is highly prized for its high vitamin E content. For centuries, locals have used the oil to relieve rheumatism and to make amlou: a divine paste of argan, honey and almonds. We buy a small, expensive jar of the miracle wrinkle cure. After tasting the argan spread—a bit like peanut butter—we find out how the nuts are harvested. We watch the bizarre sight of goats climbing high in the tree branches, foraging for the delectable argan. Next, these old goats do their bit for the rustic industry by breaking down the hard outer shells of the nuts, which take days to pass through their digestive system. Finally, the women collect and sort through the goat droppings to retrieve the kernels before pulping, pressing and toasting them. It’s not every day you get to eat a pre-masticated snack shat out by goats… An old ‘60s song by Crosby, Stills & Nash

resonates in my head on the way to Marrakesh: “Would you know, we’re riding on the Marrakesh Express / I’ve been saving all my money just to take you there / I smell the garden in your hair.” Arriving at the gates of the Ochre City, we find the hippies long gone, and a toy train that takes tourists around the souvenir souqs. The ancient oasis for caravans is a modern mecca for tourists. Dusk on Jemaa el-Fna, the magical town square of Marrakesh, is said to be one of the greatest spectacles in the world. We join hundreds of people jostling at open-air food stalls that suffuse the desert air with spicy aromas—entranced by the hypnotic drumming, strings and singing of Berber musicians. Illuminated by lamps and torches, at night the square becomes a medieval stage for acrobats, jugglers, fire-eaters, snake charmers, storytellers, fortune tellers, herbalists and apothecaries, dancing chickens and performing monkeys. (We could’ve done without the latter.) Marrakesh means “to walk fast”, and Morocco is a corruption of the city’s name. Travellers had to walk fast to make the safety of the city gates before they closed at sunset. Taking our cue, we trot along in the footsteps of the sultans on a whistle-stop tour of the tombs, palaces and gardens. I finally get to ride the Marrakesh Express.

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

T HE L AST WO RD

We have a chat with South African supermodel-turnedphotographer, Josie Borain to consume it for whatever reason. There’s a supply and demand on the product.

› What are the top destinations on your ‘bucket list’ of places to which you’d like to travel?

› Braai or sushi?

I’m super keen to visit Japan and Egypt. And any place in Africa: the Caprivi, Zambia, Botswana, Kenya, Malawi—they’re all so beautiful, with wonderful people, too. But I’ll go anywhere if you take me.

› What is the most memorable experience you have had with wildlife?

› Beer or wine?

I love being in the bush: one with nature and all; the smell, the heat; looking for birds and wildlife. I’ve done a few walking bush experiences, but I’m terribly afraid on foot, as I don’t want to come across an angry, wild beast. In fact, I’m very fearful of them, even when I’m in a car. But that doesn’t stop me from doing it. I once nearly stood on some sort of viper in the middle of a walking trip at the Fish River Canyon. It could’ve gone horribly wrong, but luckily the snake hissed at me just before I stood on it!

› Camping or luxury lodge?

I’ve had the privilege to go to many European countries, and some Central and South America ones, too. The world is a spectacular place.

› What is the weirdest food or drink you have ever tried? I can’t remember, because I would have to have been very drunk to try anything too strange! I did sit next to a man who ate a hundred-day-old egg on a slow boat trip on the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. It smelt awful, and lingered on his breath the whole way down the river.

› Are you an adrenaline junkie? Ever tried shark-cage diving, bungee jumping, parachuting, abseiling?

› If you were stuck on a desert island, would you know how to make a fire without matches, and how to catch dinner? Well, fire would be tricky if I didn’t have glass or a magnifying glass, and if it were raining all the time—unless I were on an active volcanic island. A fish could be tricky to catch, but I’d definitely try.

I bungee-jumped in New Zealand with the AJ Hachett team at the Kawarau Gorge Suspension Bridge. I’d like to sail around the world solo, but that won’t happen, as I don’t know how to sail! Might have to find a skipper who doesn’t like talking much…

› What is your tried-and-tested signature dish you serve your friends?

› If you consider your upbringing, are you a bush baby or a city slicker?

› If it were up to you, what should be done to the people running the rhino horn trade?

Both, depending on the day.

Educate the people who think they need

The Intrepid Explorer issue 16

Green beans, slightly steamed, with loads of fresh garlic and olive oil. And butternut with a magnificent sauce that I can’t tell you about, as it’s a secret…

Wine.

Camping.

› Where do you and your kids enjoy going for holidays? We have a holiday house on the banks of a river called the Duivenhoks, in the little hamlet of Vermaaklikheid. We spend most of our holidays there. Not too shabby…

› You were South Africa’s first supermodel, gracing the covers of magazines all over the world and Times Square billboards. Do you miss the high life? No, but I’m grateful that I experienced it, as now I’ve had the best of both worlds.

› You have established yourself as a leading photographer with over 20 years’ experience doing portraits, self-portraits and reportage, and have brought out a few books as well. Any current projects, or anything in the pipeline? I tend to take photos for friends or NGOs, and am happy to help out when I can, as it’s my way of giving back. I’ve been archiving my negatives and have so many photos that I could definitely do another book—but I don’t think I will, as I still have 500 of my old books sitting in my garage, collecting dust. I love taking photos and will continue doing so. But there’s nothing in the pipeline as such.

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©LEIGH PAGE

› Which favourite places have you already ticked off your bucket list?

Both, depending on the day.

SEYCHELLES MORE THAN JUST BEACHES WWW.SEYCHELLES.TRAVEL Some images courtesy of Alphonse Island