Ask the Experts FERNS THRIVE WITH CONSISTENT CARE Question: I have become interested in growing ferns. What conditions do they require and what varieties can I grow in the Kansas City area? Answer: Ferns can thrive with the right location and care. Ferns are shade plants and hot afternoon sun will burn the foliage. They do best with even soil moisture and good drainage. Most are clump forming but some can spread. The fern grown most is the Ostrich fern. The fronds can reach 3 feet and can spread by underground rhizomes. Japanese Painted fern is prized for its colorful fronds in shades of gray, purple and green. Lesser-known ferns which are happy in our gardens include Lady fern, Christmas fern and Autumn fern to name a few. All have graceful fronds reaching 1 to 3 feet. The trick with ferns is finding the right spot and the care needed to thrive. Ferns need consistent, even moisture and are not usually cut out for dry shade. WHAT TO DO ABOUT BALD CYPRESS KNEES Question: The home I purchased had a bald cypress tree which I love but here is the problem. The tree has these roots that pop up on the lawn. They are hard to mow over and can be a tripping hazard. Can I cut off the surface roots? Answer: Bald cypress is a wonderful tree which is adaptable to many sites from dry to wet. This is the same tree that grows in southern swamps and thrives in our dry hard clay. The surface roots you are concerned with are called knees. Knees are common in wetter soils conditions and their function is not clearly known. Their functions could be to provide oxygen to the tree or to help stabilize the tree. There are mixed answers to removal. Some sources report they can be cut off below the soil surface
without harming the tree. Others recommend removal with caution, although cypress wood is pretty rot resistant, the root remainders can lead to rot and decay. My best recommendation is to remove the grass in the areas circling the tree with the greatest
Autumn fern
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July 2022 | kcgmag.com
improve drainage and lower pH. Fungicides to help prevent or rescue a plant experiencing rot are difficult to find and once the issue shows up is too late to save parts of the plant. Lastly, we cannot control rainfall patterns which compounds the issue. Bottom line is it is best to
Ostrich fern
concentration and add a layer of mulch. Embrace the knees as an ornamental property of the tree not a hazard. If there are random roots beyond this area, they can be removed with a sharp saw, cutting them off about 2 inches below the surface. LIMIT PRUNING OF NEWLY PLANTED TREES Question: I planted a new redbud and several of the twiggy branches show signs of dieback. Can I cut those off? Should I do any other pruning? Answer: Newly planted trees often will suffer some branch dieback. No matter the age of the tree dead branches can be removed anytime of the year. Deadwood provides no benefits to the tree. Pruning of newly planted trees should be limited to dead, broken or crossing limbs. It is best to leave as much growth as possible on young trees. Simply put, the higher the number of green leaves the greater the
DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent
ability the plant has to manufacturer food, and the greater the growth rate. As the tree grows additional pruning can be done to help shape and enhance the structure of the tree. I love getting the question about removing deadwood. Deadwood,
broken or hazardous limbs can be removed anytime of the year. No need to wait for the ideal time of late winter to prune. ROOT ROT OF RHODODENDRON Question: Help, my rhododendron is suffering from root rot. One by one branches wilt, turn brown and die. The problem has been identified as a root rot. What can I do? Answer: Rhododendrons can be a difficult plant to grow in our climate. They prefer an acidic soil which we don’t have. They like organically rich and well drained soils. We have poorly drained clay and low organic matter. As a result, this plant can struggle. The best defense against the several types of root rots which can affect rhododendrons is prevention. Before planting improve the planting bed or area, not the planting hole itself. Till up the bed 6 to 8 inches and add acidic organic matter, such as peat moss. This should
rely on good garden practices and culture instead of chemical treatments for success. JUMPING WORM REPORT LITTLE OR NO DAMAGE TO SOIL Question: What’s all the fuss about the jumping worm? What do I do if I find one? Answer: I may get hate mail over this comment, but my take is the news media is making mountains out of mole hills, or in this case worm castings. In Kansas the Department of Agriculture is not monitoring the movement of this species. Reports of them are overblown as every big earthworm is the Asian species. In areas where they have had established populations for years, they report little or no damage to the soil. It is always good to be proactive to prevent issues but with this one if you think you have them, kill them, and find something else to worry about. I may eat my words later but for now this is my advice.
Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.
