KCG Nov22

editor’s notes

Independently

PUBLISHER

Michael Cavanaugh

EDITOR

Elizabeth Cavanaugh

CONTRIBUTORS

LeAnne Beaumont

Sean Holland Kristina Howley

Jason Mispagel

Dennis Patton Denise Sullivan Scott Woodbury

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contact Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

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P.O. Box 8725 Prairie Village, KS 66208 913-648-4728

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EDITORIAL

Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

SUBSCRIPTION

Elizabeth

elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

Connection and gratitude

a reader contacted me

for a couple of cop ies of the August issue. Even

back issues are available on our website, he wanted hard copies

share with a family member new

gardening.

indeed!)

Well of course it’s a mess, you ninny. It’s fall and things fall— leaves, branches. Boy oh boy. Sometimes I wonder about myself.

that day

received this message, “A pleasure to have expe rienced your front yard.” You see,

left the magazines on the front porch laying on the white chair designated for such occasions. My visitor had come and gone without my knowing, which was expected.

what I didn’t expect was my reaction to his comment. Oh dear, I thought. I haven’t tidied up; the pathway is scattered with birch branches and oak tree limbs from the recent gusty days. The drive way and every surface up to and including the porch were littered with leaves.

hurried response was grate ful and apologetic. “Such as it is,” I said. “Thank you. It’s weary and ready for dormancy. The dry sea son took its toll. Come back in late spring when the garden begins to come alive.” In other words, my garden is a mess. Come back when it’s at its best. (Oh brother.)

To be honest, I would have re sponded the same way if a neigh bor knocked on the front door, and I invited them inside “My house is a mess. Can you come back after I vacuum and dust?” (Oh brother,

The truth is every garden looks like mine, in some form. And if you leave the leaves like we do, the gar den will appear less tidy as fall and winter continue.

As I age, alongside the garden, I am learning to appreciate every season and the benefits each pres ents. For example, I came across this quote from Hal Borland, that lends a different perspective on this time of year. There’s more than what you see (crispy leaves, fallen branches and naked trees).

We seldom think of November in terms of beauty or any other spe cially satisfying tribute. November is simply that interval between col orful October and dark December. Then, nearly every year, come a few November days of clear, crisp weather that make one wonder why November seldom gets its due.

There is the November sky, clean of summer dust, blown clear this day of the urban smog that so often hazes autumn...

There is the touch of November air, chill enough to have a slight tang, like properly aged cider. Not air that caresses, nor yet air that nips. Air that makes one breathe deeply and think of spring water and walk briskly.

an American writer, journalist and naturalist. He seems to capture the essence of this time of year in those words. And it offers a new frame of reference when connecting with my garden. How wonderful to connect in a new way. For this, I am grate ful.

Happy Thanksgiving to you, dear reader. Grateful also to have this connection with you. Be in touch.

I’ll see you in the garden!

Harold “Hal” Glen Borland

(May 1900 – February 1978) was

.

Fall in love with your garden, all over again

It’s time to revisit the garden with fall plantings. Don’t forget to nourish with Osmocote® Smart-Release® Plant Food It will feed your plants essential nutrients consistently and continuously throughout the autumn season.

When perfection matters, why trust anything else?

© 2021, The Scotts Company, LLC. All rights reserved

Ask the Experts

Question: The last few summers my peonies have not looked great. They get what I have been told is powdery mildew, a chalky grayish white film on the foliage. I read on Facebook that I should cut my plants back in the summer to rid the plants of this issue. Is this the best solution?

Answer: NO! Never cut peo nies back in the summer. Don’t remove the foliage until it browns naturally in the late summer or fall. Peonies need the green foliage growth to help produce energy for next year’s bloom. Cutting back early in the season robs the plant of any chance of generating food re serves. I shudder every time I see this recommendation on social me dia. It is just bad advice!

One recommended option to fight mildew and other diseases is sanitation, but that alone can not eliminate the mildew. Mildew happens when we have cool, wet springs. Cutting back in the fall is ideal to remove the infected foli age. Your options are either to live with the issue or spray multiple fungicide applications early when the growth begins. I roll with the punches and don’t spray. So far even with the whitish foliage I have not seen a reduction in flowering.

BEE FRIENDLY WITH MICROCLOVER

Question: I want to plant a lower maintenance and more bee friendly lawn. One option I read about is microclover. Is this a good alternative to bluegrass or tall fes cue?

Answer: Lawn care is chang ing as more people look for lower maintenance and environmentally friendly options. There is not a simple solution. Microclover is related to the white clover com monly found in our lawns. As the name implies, microclover is more compact, and has a lower growing habit. This potentially makes it a

Newly seeded microclover Deer damage

good ground cover alternative to traditional lawns.

A monoculture or pure stand of microclover is probably not the an swer. It is not well adapted to thrive in heat and drought. It will dieback during the seasonal temperature ex tremes and leave bare spots of open soil. Microclover, or maybe better yet white clover, probably works best when seeded into a bluegrass or tall fescue lawn. This mix can reduce fertilizer, water and mow ing needs while still providing pol len for bees. This will also provide more consistent coverage of the soil to help reduce erosion and a muddy mess.

BEST BARRIERS FOR DEER AND RABBIT

Question: Last year my fruit trees got hammered in the winter by deer and rabbits. Is there a re pellent I can spray on the trees to help protect them?

Answer: Deer and rabbit repel lents are on the market, but I am not for sure I would rely on their effectiveness. They are short term and require multiple applications. Physical barriers are your best bet.

Rabbit damage can be con trolled with a tree wrap. Use either plastic or heavy paper applied from the base of the tree up to a height of 18 to 24 inches. Deer are more of a challenge as their rutting severely damages the trunk. A wire ring, out and around the tree works best.

Building a fence with concrete re inforcing wire and T post are ef fective. Cattle panels purchased at farm supply stores can also be bent in a circle to ring the tree.

Another fruit tree pest is voles. Voles are mouse-like animals that gnaw on the bark at the base. Re move grass out and around the trunk a few inches to reduce feed ing. Tree wraps will also protect the tree.

TIPS FOR NOVEMBER LAWN FERTILIZATION

Question: My lawn survived the summer and now I want to fertilize one last time since Extension recommends November fertiliza tion. I am getting conflicting in formation about what fertilizer to use. I hear I should use a fertilizer with high nitrogen and little or no phosphorus. I have also been told to use a fertilizer in November with phosphorus. What should I be applying?

Answer: November fertiliza tion is the second most important application. It prepares the lawn for spring green up with less top growth. It also helps build strong roots and crowns.

Extension recommendation is to use high nitrogen and little or no phosphorus. There are several reasons for this recommendation. First, most local soils naturally have ample levels of phosphorus. Adding more does not improve

growth. A simple Extension soil test measures soil pH and will provide this information. Second, overload ing the soil with phosphorus leads to erosion and leaching, which will move the excess into streams and ponds. This can increase algae is sues. The only time Extension will recommend a fertilizer with phos phorus is when you are seeding as research does show an applica tion at this time will increase root development. Established lawns, unless a soil test indicates low lev els, never need an application with phosphorus.

Stick with a fertilizer prod uct analysis which has the first number (N=nitrogen) around 30% and the second and third numbers, (phosphorus=P and the potassium=K) as close to zero as possible. One last thought, grass cannot read so brand names are not as important as the nutrient analysis.

MULCH STRAWBERRIES IN WINTER

Question: I am growing straw berries for the first time. I have heard I should mulch for the winter. What does that mean?

Answer: Strawberries are very shallow rooted. Winter freezing and thawing can heave or push the plants out of the ground, which makes them susceptible to winter kill. Mulching for winter reduces this effect and helps delay spring growth, this also reduces flower bud damage from a late freeze.

The ideal mulch should be light and fluffy. Straw or leaves work best. Wait to apply until after sever al hard freezes into the 20s, and the plants are fully dormant. Cover the bed with 2 to 3 inches of mulch. The point of the mulch is not to keep the plants warm, but buffer them from the extremes of high and low tem perature fluctuations. When spring arrives and growth begins, push the mulch off the plants and use as a summer mulch on the soil to help control weeds and conserve mois ture.

Agent

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

DENNIS PATTON

Autumnal Wonderland

My favorite time of year has arrived. I sense the calm of fall. It’s the time when the trunks and branches of oaks reveal themselves and crickets are gradu ally silenced. The absence of insect calls makes way for the sound of wind blowing through switchgrass. It’s the time when sycamore leaves

are hoarding holly berries, even at the Taco Bell drive-through. Jun cos and white-throated sparrows have arrived for the winter, and are scratching the ground for fallen seeds. Chickadees and titmice are pecking open swollen goldenrod stems, in search of fat larval mor sels.

table decorations. Chocolate-brown sweet coneflower seed heads stand out amongst golden switchgrass leaves. The seed heads of wild ber gamot, showy goldenrod, and hairy mountain mint are stunning, and are a great seed source for winter birds. So are those of Ohio horse mint, iron plant, joe pye, wingstem,

leaves. White sage is one of my favorite foliage plants. In autumn I cut the stems, fold them in half, bundle them tightly with cotton thread, then burn them outdoors for the intoxicating aroma. It reminds me of the acrid smell of burning eucalyptus (used by rural people for cooking) in Ethiopia. Include a

lay wet on the ground, smelling like ancient Ethiopian churches. When Ozark rivers run blue, rendering clear every sunken log, tire, boul der, and the critters they hide. And mostly, it’s the time when plants dole out their last few seeds to hun gry birds, mammals, and people in need of nurturing. This is their last, but not least, act of the year. Be sure to take a moment and a closer look.

Right now, red-head ed woodpeckers are gathering acorns on the ground and packing them away in tree cran nies for later. Yellowbellied sapsuckers are de vouring as much persimmon goo as they can, fattening up for winter. Mice are busy chopping coneflower seed heads down, like an agile coconut farmer. The evi dence of their work lays chewed up on the ground and in footprints in the snow. Waxwings are munch ing black gum and cedar berries as if they were candy. Mockingbirds

Goldfinches are still shred ding Texas green eyes, black-eyed Susans, and Silphium seed heads, though their bright yellow feath ers have turned drab for the sea son. They will continue feeding through winter—I’m amazed how much seed remains on perennial and grass plants through the win ter months. Plants in the aster family (goldenrod, as ter, ironweed, blaz ing star, blackeyed Susan, etc.) may have 5 to 15% of their seeds still cling ing to the stem in autumn. That’s a great reason to keep them standing all winter. They feed birds, especially when there is snow on the ground. Many flowering perennials and grasses are beautiful in winter. The seed pods of wild senna are strik ingly shiny and black; the fluted pods of Missouri evening primrose are other-worldly. Both make great

Switchgrass

black-eyed Susan, aster, and wild indigo. They are also incredibly beautiful covered in snow, ice, or frost.

And don’t forget foliage. Some of the best fall and winter “tannery” (think greenery) can be found on compass plant. Their big bold leaves twist like earthy holiday rib bons, and are covered with scurfy resin dots that smell like turpentine. Prairie dock has somewhat similar

small cedar branch to add a camp fire smell.

Speaking of campfires, I’ll end with my favorite fall activity: burn ing green giant cane stems. You need a section of fresh stem that includes two nodes (the swollen areas). Between the nodes, is a sec tion of trapped air. Heat it up in the campfire and imagine what might happen...bam! Happy autumn gar dening y’all!

Scott Woodbury was the horticulturist at Shaw Nature Reserve for 30 years and stepped down from that position in June 2022. He continues to work on contract for Shaw Nature Reserve to carry out native landscaping education, and has launched his own business called Cacalia: Native Garden Design and Wilding. Find suppliers of native plants, seeds, and services at the Grow Native! Resource Guide: www.moprairie.org.

SCOTT WOODBURY

Bur oak

Junco on blazing star

Hairy mountain mint, Wild bergamot, Aster

Photos by Scott Woodbury.

PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Mushrooms

Substances found in mushrooms, such as polysaccharides, indoles, polyphenols, and carotenoids have shown antioxidant, anti-inflamma tory, and anticancer effects in both cellular and animal studies.

This month’s topic is likely to cause some controversy for sure…is it a plant or not…is it gross or tasty…do they even have any nutritional value…ALL sorts of questions! So, let’s talk about mushrooms!

I will say right up front that I am not a mushroom expert, however I am a mushroom lover! Unlike many mushroom lovers, I am not one of those folks that looks forward to the hunt for the treasured morel. In fact, I have only been on one ‘hunt’ and came home with more stickers (and ticks) than mushrooms. I de cided that I would gratefully accept any morels that anyone would be kind enough to share with me or, just stick to getting standard mush rooms from the store! For a detailed guide on edible and poisonous wild mushrooms, look up the Missouri Conservation Department’s publi cation at: https://bit.ly/3rySfV0.

While attending a professional development conference about ten years ago, I went on a tour and learned about mushroom farming and was fascinated! Imagine my surprise when I looked at the label on the mushrooms that I bought in the grocery store and learned that many of them came from Mis souri or Kansas. To learn more about mushroom production, this University of Missouri publica tion is a great reference: https://bit. ly/3SDMxNC.

Although they are nutritionally

considered a vegetable, mushrooms are a type of fungus that contain a substance called ergosterol, which has a similar chemical structure to cholesterol in animals. This unique substance can be transformed into vitamin D with exposure to ultravio let (UV) light. Because most mush rooms are grown in dark, controlled environments, it requires intentional exposure to UV light, either by UV lamps or natural sunlight, for this vitamin conversion to occur. This type of vitamin D is called D2 (er gocalciferol), which is a common form found in supplements. The other main form of vitamin D is D3 (cholecalciferol), which is found primarily in animal foods. Your own exposure to sunlight – as little as 15 minutes per day – also stimulates your body’s own production of vita min D. One of the key roles of vita min D is to aid in the mineralization of calcium for strong, healthy bones. It is important to know that vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin, meaning that it is stored in the fat, so more isn’t necessarily better. It is a good idea to visit with your health care provider before considering vitamin D supplementation or supplementa tion of any vitamin for that matter.

Mushrooms are also good sources of B vitamins such as ribo flavin and niacin, as well as miner als selenium, potassium, and cop per. For centuries, mushrooms have been utilized for medicinal proper ties by ancient eastern practitioners.

The most common mushroom is the white button mushroom, which has a mild flavor and is commonly used raw in salads or cooked into recipes. Other types of mushrooms that are available include: chante relle, cremini (also known as baby bella), enoki, maitake, morel (the hunted treasure), oyster, porcini, portobello, and shiitake.

Mushroom lovers like me ap preciate their ability to create sa vory rich flavors, known as umami, thanks to the presence of an amino acid called glutamate. Glutamates are commonly found in meat, and it is this rich flavor profile that makes the portobello mushroom a common substitute for meat. This umami flavor also enhances lowsodium cooking preparations, thus reducing the need for salt in many recipes. The rich flavor of mush rooms and caramelized onions make the perfect combination for this tasty, creamy risotto.

Carmelized Onion and Mushroom Risotto

MAKES FOUR SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

1 Vidalia onion, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced

1 cup short grain brown rice

¼ cup dry white wine

2 cups low sodium vegetable broth

3 cups water

1 cup frozen peas

1 cup grated carrots

¼ cup grated reduced-fat parmesan cheese

Wash hands and all work surfaces. Wash mushrooms and wipe dry with paper towel before slicing.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat (do not use nonstick skillet). Add onions and stir to coat with the oil. Let cook until browned and caramelized, stirring occasionally (about 20-30 minutes). Remove onions from pan, set aside. Wipe pan clean.

Heat remaining oil in pan and add mushrooms and stir to coat. Cook and stir until browned, about 15 minutes.

While onions and mushrooms are browning, prepare risotto as follows.

Heat wine and rice in large pot, stir until wine is absorber.

In a saucepan, combine broth and water until simmering, reduce heat and keep warm.

Add one cup of broth mixture to rice, cook uncovered until liquid is ab sorbed, stirring frequently.

Continue adding broth and stirring, 1 cup at a time, allowing liquid to ab sorb before adding more. Add peas and carrots to rice with last cup of broth.

Cook until rice is tender, and mixture has a creamy consistency (process takes about one hour).

Gently stir in onions, mushrooms, and cheese until combine.

Remove from heat, cover and let stand 10 minutes before serving.

NUTRITION INFORMATION

Calories: 222, Total Fat: 8.5g, Saturated Fat: 1.5g, Sodium: 208mg, Carbohy drates: 27.5g, Fiber: 5.5g, Protein: 8g Recipe adapted from Seasonal and Simple, analyzed by verywellfit.com.

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in the Urban West Region, serving Jackson and Platte Counties. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-482-5850 or visit https://extension.missouri.edu/counties/urban-west-region.

Create a garden with WINTER INTEREST

Winter is upon us. As gardeners, we like to use this time to rest from the previous season’s hard work, thumb through plant cata logs, and ponder what to plant next spring. While you’re resting, pe rusing, and planning, let me offer this thought for your consideration: Does your landscape present fourseason interest?

An important feature of the ideal landscape is four-season in terest. Choosing perennials that have varied bloom times and using shrubs and trees with unique foli age and fall color ensure a seasonlong show from spring to frost— but what about the winter months? Though most plants are dormant, some careful selections can help accentuate the landscape from frost until those first bulbs begin to peek out in March.

Adding winter interest to the garden can be as simple as adding some well-placed evergreens, but there are many other ways to add interest than planting commonly used boxwoods. Consider plants that will produce berries in addi tion to those evergreens. Most ber ry producing shrubs begin to bear in late fall, and the berries persist through the winter until eventually consumed by wildlife. If you are a bird watcher, plant near the house and windows so that it draws hun gry birds up close.

Holly (Ilex) are a festive, hol iday-friendly shrub that produces berries in late fall. Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is a species of deciduous holly that produces a heavy crop of brilliant red berries on its stems in late fall. Remember that hollies are generally dioecious

(separate male and female plants), and that in order to produce a crop of berries, a male plant must be in proximity to a grouping of female plants.

Pyracantha and cotoneaster are two unique shrubs that are sure to attract birds to their branches with a crop of berries. A member of the rose family, pyracantha does grow thorns, but produces a long season of showy berries. Cotoneaster is frequently available in evergreen varieties, and produces its berries among minute, glossy-green foli age. Beautyberry (Callicarpa) is a deciduous shrub that produces clus ters of bright pink to purple berries that last from late summer into the winter months.

Shady areas can be a challenge at any time of year, and wintertime

is no exception. Wintergreen (Gaul theria) is an evergreen groundcover that tolerates deep shade. It is slow to establish, and takes some extra care in the hot summer months. Once established, however, it pro duces fragrant red berries that feed birds and small animals through winter. An acid-loving plant, it grows well when paired with aza leas and rhododendrons.

Consider planting trees and shrubs with unique bark, stems, and structure for winter interest. Red Twig and Yellow Twig Dog wood are great specimen plants in the winter months, especially when it snows. Nandina also stands out with brilliant red-orange fall foli age that remains until the fresh growth emerges in spring. With its unusual structure as a young plant,

Blue Atlas Cedar makes a unique accent to the landscape; for a more uniform “Christmas Tree” shape, try an Oriental Spruce.

Ornamental grasses are lowmaintenance and are available in a variety of sizes and varieties.

Larger Pampas and Maiden Grass es look nice from a distance, while dwarf varieties, such as ‘Hameln’ Fountain Grass, makes a nice bor der plant in beds and along walk ways. One of my favorite grasses is the annual Purple Fountain Grass. Even though it is an annual, I use it as a landscape grass, planting it as a specimen in my beds in spring. It grows and matures all summer, and as winter sets in, the grace ful plumes and foliage remains through the winter before making its final journey to my compost pile and being replaced with a new one the following spring. By do ing this, I avoid having to maintain and divide larger perennial grasses, which is generally required every few years.

When planning the locations of plants for winter interest, consider the view from inside your house, as many gardeners aren’t taking their morning coffee on their pa tios in January. Plant in view of large windows, or in locations that you frequently see such as gardens near the entrance of your home. Be mindful when pruning berry-pro ducing plants. Pruning after bloom ing will likely result in loss of berry production.

Winter can seem cold and drea ry, but with some strategically se lected plants, gardeners and their guests can enjoy well-planted land scapes year round—even from the comfort of their living rooms.

Photo courtesy of Proven Winners.

Hameln Fountain

As we approach the end of fall, it’s time for indoor gar deners to begin preparing for the frigid winter months ahead. Rather than focus on planning out door spring gardens, though, we can set our sights on the more im mediate future. Our horticultural daydreams aren’t hampered by a wait for the season’s final frost. Instead, we can embrace a world of snow-covered trees, impassible roads, crackling fireplaces and cozy blankets by growing fresh produce fit for a cold winter’s day. And what better dish to prepare when you’re couped up in the house, staying clear of sub-freezing temperatures, than a belly-warming bowl of po tato soup?

Potatoes certainly aren’t the most popular plant to grow indoors, but they are surprisingly easy to cultivate and don’t require quite the amount of space we sometimes en vision. They’re ideal for growing in the fall and winter in an unfinished basement or heated garage because they thrive in temperatures in the mid-60s to low 70s. Better yet, it takes very little in the way of equip ment to get started.

The first step is to select the po tatoes you’d like to grow. It’s impor tant to note the difference between the potatoes you purchase from the grocery store to eat and “seed potatoes” that are used to grow. Grocery store potatoes have been treated in the field while growing with chemicals that inhibit proper sprouting. This makes them more economically desirable to food pro ducers and resellers because it al lows them to reach the consumer without sprouting. They’re essen tially prettier and have a longer shelf-life. For the purpose of using one potato to grow more potatoes, you want to purchase seed potatoes that have not been chemically treat ed. If they’re not in season at your

Indoor Gardening: Tasty Tubers

local hardware store or nursery, they’re usually readily available online and come in varieties rang ing from Yukon Gold to Red Gold to Russian Banana. Once you’ve acquired your seed potatoes, if they do not already have sprouts grow ing from the “eyes”, place them in a cool place out of direct sunlight until at least a few emerge. Now, they’re ready for planting.

While numerous potato-specific planting containers and fabric pots

ing soil, preferably one that’s nu trient-rich and slightly acidic with a pH around 5 to 6. If your soil is a standard potting mix and lacks enough nutrition to take the pota toes through harvest, no need to worry. An all-purpose dry or liquid fertilizer that’s either evenly bal anced between nitrogen (N), phos phorus (P) and potassium (K) or leans more towards P and K can be used to supplement your potatoes’ nutritional needs. In the event your

light, set to run 12 hours per day, approximately 18 inches above the top of the container. If your light’s wattage is higher than 100 Watts, you can either increase its height or decrease the number of hours it’s turned on each day.

Water the soil until it’s evenly moist and continue watering as necessary to prevent the soil from fully drying out. If you’re using liquid fertilizer, start introducing it around the second week of growth

are available on the market, many equipped with special ports de signed to easily remove mature po tatoes, the average do-it-yourselfer can get by with a simple plastic tote, bucket or trash can that’s like ly already sitting around the house. The key is to find something that’s at least 18 inches deep. I prefer an 18-gallon Rubbermaid storage bin.

If the container does not already have holes in the bottom, you’ll need to drill or cut holes throughout to allow for drainage and either set the tote on top of its lid or add some sort of tray below it to handle any run-off from watering.

You’ll need a bag of well-drain

soil is too heavy and is retaining too much moisture, don’t be afraid to mix in some perlite or vermiculite. This will help with drainage and re duce the risk of rot.

Pour a layer of soil, 6 to 8 inch es deep into the container, plac ing your potatoes on top with the sprouts facing upwards. Add more soil to cover the potatoes entirely with only the top of each small sprout exposed. If you’re mixing in a slow-release dry fertilizer, this would be a great opportunity to include it with the second layer of soil.

Hang a full-spectrum, 100 Watt, LED (light emitting diode) grow

and stop using it approximately two weeks before harvest. Be sure to avoid oversaturating the soil to prevent rotting.

As the sprouts turn into green stems and grow up through the soil, continue “hilling,” adding more soil, until the soil’s surface is with in a few inches of the container’s brim. When flowers begin to form within the foliage, approximately 3 to 4 months after planting, the ful ly developed tubers (potatoes) are ready to harvest by digging them out of the soil. Store them in a cool dry place until you’re ready to work them into your next recipe, saving one or two for replanting.

Jason Mispagel is the co-owner and operator of Year-Round Garden, a grower’s supply center serving both home and commercial customers since 2016. To contact Jason, call 816-216-6917 or jason@year-roundgarden.com.

Russian Banana

Rose Report

November in Kansas City. Will it freeze? Will it snow? Who knows! That’s why November is the time to fin ish getting your rose garden ready for the winter.

In case you missed the last couple of Rose Reports, ide ally by mid-September you have stopped cutting off the spent roses, and by October you cleaned up dead rose leaves from the bottom of your roses. Unless you have chosen to have a no spray garden, the last application of fungicide also should have been done. By November, all roses should be mulched. If you are crunched for time, at least get your grafted roses mulched ASAP, then go back and mulch the own root roses.

It’s also time to cut back just the rose canes that might get torn off the plant by strong winds or by the weight of snow. Prune as little as possible, so you don’t send the message to your roses that it is time to grow. Full disclosure…there have been years where I have had to recruit my husband and we were out in the garden in the cold, finishing up mulching and doing that last prune literally the afternoon be fore the first predicted overnight freeze. I don’t recommend doing it that way!

If you need more in-depth step-by-step details on how to prepare your garden for winter, head to www.kansascityroseso ciety.org and click on Rose Info and then Winter Rose Care. In ad dition, any time of the year, you can click on Ask a Rosarian if you have a specific question, and a consulting rosarian will reply within a few days.

For me, November is also time to plan changes that I want to make to my rose garden in the spring. Due to space constraints, I’ve maxed out at 35 rose bushes. Every rose in my garden is there for a reason. Some are there because they smell amazing. One

is there because it was my mom’s favorite rose. Some of the roses are in my garden because they do well at rose show competitions.

Most of the time, however, I cut my roses and give them to coworkers or friends. I always

The Overland Park Arboretum by Candlelight at the 23rd Annual Luminary Walk

tell people the names of the roses I give them, and if there is an in teresting backstory to the name, I will share that as well. Sometimes I will buy a rose just because I like the name. I’m ordering a really dark red one for the spring called Dancing in the Dark. I’m a huge Bruce Springsteen fan, therefore I feel like I HAVE TO have that rose. I also have a pretty yellow one called Gift of Life. I like the name, and any opportunity to bring up the topic of organ donation. Part of the purchase price also went to sup port organ donation awareness.

There is a really cool story about the Peace rose, too. I’ll leave it to you to look it up. Actually, there is a book about rose names called A Rose by Any Name by Douglas Brenner and Stephen Scanniello if that sort of thing interests you.

To me, sharing their beauty is the real point of growing roses. Remember how I said that I give away most of my roses? That’s why next spring, I want to replace a few underperforming rose bushes with ones that are known to produce blooms that last a long time in a vase.

Figuring out which roses to take out and which ones to put in is hard! It’s a good thing we have all winter to work on that!

LEANNE BEAUMONT, Rosarian

LeAnne is an American Rose Society Consulting rosarian. She started off growing roses in Southern California 20 years ago.

In 2010 she moved to Kansas City and started learning how to successfully grow roses in the Midwest.

Thetradition continues at the 23rd Annual Luminary Walk, presented by Westlake Ace Hardware, Sarin Energy Solutions, and FNBO. The popular kick-off for the holiday season is a festive family walk through the lights at the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens.

During the four weekends following Thanksgiving, take a stroll along the lit pathways to explore the magical Gnome and Fairy Houses, serene winter woods by candlelight, and the colorful Children’s Garden. Enjoy musical performances in four different locations and visit with Santa in his Woodland Depot. Trees, buildings, and bridges are all part of the show, with thousands of lights aglow.

The Luminary Walk has been expanded to Thursdays and a fourth week end this year. The dates are: November 25 & 26 December 2 & 3 December 8, 9 & 10 December 15, 16 & 17

The Arboretum will be transformed into a wonderland of candles and lights from 5:00 to 10:00 p.m., with final entry allowed at 9:00 p.m.

Admission for the Luminary Walk is $15; children five and under are free. Tickets are date and time specific, and must be purchased online in ad vance at https://artsandrec-op.org/arboretum/luminary-walk/. For the safety and comfort of all, tickets will be limited and sold for specific half-hour entry slots. Parking is free.

For a quieter date night or “friends night out” experience, the adultsonly Candlelight Stroll on December 1st features the glow of candles through the woods, hot cider, enchanting gnome houses and live musical performances without the busy buzz of Santa and children. This is a unique opportunity for adults to enjoy the peaceful serenity of the Arboretum after dark. As a special addition, wine and hot “adult” beverages will be available for purchase (must be 21+ to purchase). Those under 18 years old will not be admitted.

About the Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens

The Overland Park Arboretum & Botanical Gardens is one of the area’s largest botanical gardens with more than 300 acres and 800 plant species. Located at 8909 West 179th Street, just ten minutes south of I-435 and Met calf, west of 69 Highway, it is an easy drive from anywhere in the KC metro area. The Arboretum’s beautiful gardens and wooded walking trails offer year-round fun featuring the Monet Garden, Train Garden, 38 sculptures and many seasonal events. The Luminary Walk is produced by Friends of the Arboretum, which is part of the Arts & Recreation Foundation. For more information, visit https://artsandrec-op.org/arboretum/.

You never know when it might snow.

Photo by LeAnne Beaumont.

913-208-5941

Upcoming Garden Events

Raytown Garden Club

Tues, Nov 1, 10a; at Connection Point Church, 10500 E 350 Hwy, Raytown, MO 64138. Program will be A Round Table Discussion of Planting in 2022: What Worked? What Didn’t Work featuring RGC club members. Guests are always welcome. For more infor mation please check out our Face book page: https://www.facebook. com/RaytownGardenClub.

Maximizing Space in Your Small Food Garden

Thurs, Nov 3, 11:30a; at Sunflower Room of Wyandotte County Exten sion Office, 1208 N 79th St, Kansas City, KS. If people are unable to at tend in person, it will also be broad cast live via Zoom. Presented by Kim Wetzel-Williams, Wyandotte County EMG. Are you tired of not having enough room in your backyard to grow all the food you want to grow? Kim will present both time and space gardening methods to help you get the most out of your small space. She has been an Extension Master Gar dener since 2003, and in her 38 years of growing fruits and vegetables has utilized many different approaches to maximizing food production in limit ed space. Register in advance for this class at https://ksu.zoom.us/meeting/ register/tJItfu6hpzwuGtH7YFg4F 2GKXq9aZeAElI8P. After register ing, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the meeting.

Garden Club of Shawnee Thurs, Nov 3, 7p; at The Town Hall at Shawnee Town 1929, 11600 John son Dr, Shawnee, KS. This will be our annual soup and bread potluck, accompanied by a rousing game of Garden Trivia. This meeting is a fa vorite so don’t miss it! Guests are welcome. Please visit our website: gardenclubofshawnee.org and our Facebook page for more informa tion.

African Violet Club of Greater Kansas City 70th AVSA Judged Show and Sale: “Calling All Violets”

Nov 5, 9a-3p; at Jacob L Loose Park Garden Center, 51st & Wornall, Kan sas City, MO 64112. No Admission Fee.

Discover Nature: Project Feeder Watch Kick-off

Sat, Nov 5, 9-10a; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Project Feeder Watch turns your love of feeding birds into scien tific discoveries. Join us as we partic ipate in this citizen scientist project. Your bird counts help the Cornell Lab track what is happening in your own backyard and helps track long-term trends in bird distribution and abun dance. Birders of all ages and skill levels welcome. Bring your binocu lars or borrow a pair of ours. Register at https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-na ture/places/burr-oak-woods-conser vation-area then click on events.

Festival of Lights

Nov 10–Dec 30; Wed–Sun, 4–10p; at Powell Gardens. During Evergy Festival of Lights at Powell Gardens, more than 20 miles of lights turn Kansas City’s botanical garden into a winter wonderland. Enjoy a breath of fresh air during a hectic holiday season! Bundle up with family and friends while you stroll a lighted outdoor path, pausing for plenty of Instagram and holiday-card worthy photo moments along the way. En counter immersive botanic installa tions that show off the exceptional architecture and landscape elements of the Gardens and accentuating the natural joy of the most festive season. This year, featured new media art ist, Kevin Heckart, transforms two sites with interactive light displays and a new festival feature, the Light Labyrinth, promises an adventure for all ages! Registration can be found at powellgardens.org/calendar. Festival of Lights tickets will be available at powellgardens.org/lights soon!

Idalia Butterfly Society

Sat, Nov 12, 6p; at Prairie Village City Hall, 7700 Mission Rd, Prairie Village, KS. Beverages available. Presentation starts about 7p. Program: Butterfly Garden Design and Mainte nance: Paula Diaz. A well-designed butterfly garden considers the needs of not only our lepidopteran friends, but also its caretaker and its neigh bors whether in an urban, suburban or rural setting. This includes plan ning for maintenance over the years

as the garden matures. In keeping with the current “Leave the Leaves” movement, a balance between mini mal maintenance and neighborhood aesthetics will be described. Photo graphs of Paula’s client butterfly gar dens at various stages of maturity will be presented. Paula Diaz is the prin cipal of GardeNerd Consultations, providing education on incorporating native flora into traditional home and business landscapes. She volunteers with MU Extension Master Garden ers, GrowNative! and Deep Roots KC and is a member of the Missouri Prairie Foundation and the Missouri Native Plant Society.

Winter Container Workshop Nov 12 & 19, 3-4p; at Powell Gar dens. $65 | $20 less for members; Co nifer Room. Decorate your home for the holidays with natural adornments created during this workshop. Each participant will create a fiber pot con tainer that can be displayed indoors or out. Advanced registration is re quired. Registration can be found at powellgardens.org/calendar. A Festi val of Lights ticket and parking ($20) is included with your workshop fee.

Wild Edibles: Amazing Missouri Trees

Tues, Nov 15, 1-3p; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. They aren’t just shade, shelter and food. They have amazing medic inal qualities. Register through Nov 14 at https://mdc.mo.gov/discovernature/places/burr-oak-woods-con servation-area then click on events.

Leawood Garden Club Tues, Nov 15, 10:30a; at Cure of Ars Catholic Church, 9401 Mis sion Rd, Leawood, KS. Program: “Garden Hacks and Tips” by Nancy Chapman, Johnson County Exten sion Master Gardener. Nancy has an Agriculture degree from K-State and seven years of horticulture courses at JCCC. A curious life-long learner, she joined the K-State Research Ex tension Master Gardener program in 2007. Nancy also volunteers as an Extension Master Naturalist, as an orchard steward for Kansas City Community Garden’s Giving Grove and she serves on two garden related

boards. Visitors Welcome.

African Violet Club of Greater Kansas City

Monthly meetings: Nov 18, Dec 16, 11a-1p; at Jacob L Loose Park Gar den Center, 51st & Wornall, Kansas City, MO 64112. Visitors Welcome.

Discover Nature: Nature Grati tude Hunt

Sat, Nov 26, 12:30-1:30p; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. What in nature are you most thankful for? Search the trails near the Nature Center to find hid den “pumpkins” of knowledge about special things only the natural world can do for us. Collect four gratitude pumpkins to redeem for a special prize. Program will be all outdoors, weather permitting. If wind chill gets below 25 degrees or if there is rain/ sleet program will be cancelled. Reg ister between Nov 1 and Nov 25 at https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/ places/burr-oak-woods-conservationarea then click on events.

Discover Nature: Nature Rx: Hammock Hike

Sat, Nov 26, 2:30-4p; at Burr Oak Woods Conservation Nature Center, 1401 NW Park Rd, Blue Springs, MO 64015. Enrich your life by na ture immersion to reduce stress, boost immunity, lower blood pressure, im prove sleep and many more possible health benefits. Hammock chill time highlights: how to choose a great spot, the best way to secure it safely and using your senses to soak in some nature therapy. Collect special water bottle stickers to help share this idea with friends. Register between Nov 1 and Nov 25 at https://mdc.mo.gov/ discover-nature/places/burr-oakwoods-conservation-area then click on events. Must be 18 to attend.

Promote plant sales, club meetings, classes, and other gardening events for FREE!

Send details to: elizabeth@kcgmag.com.

Deadline for publishing in the December issue is November 7.

Taking care of a home lawn can be time consuming but rewarding for many home owners. Kansas State University horticulture expert Ward Upham said as mowing season ends, it is important to service mowers before storing them for winter.

“Make sure you drain the gas tank of gasoline-powered engines or use a gasoline stabilizer,” Up ham said. “Untreated gasoline can become thick and gummy.”

Spark plugs should be replaced. Before putting the new one in, place a few drops of oil inside the hole to lubricate the cylinder. Battery ter

minals usually corrode during the season, so they should be cleaned with a wire-bristle brush before be ing removed and stored for winter.

“If you remove the battery, be sure to store it in a protected loca tion for the winter (a cool basement works best),” Upham said.

Cleaning and storing mowers properly is just one part of end ofseason-care. Upham also suggests using this time to sharpen mower blades and listed the steps to guide the process:

• Check for major blade damage and replace what can’t be fixed.

• Remove grass and debris with

before winter hits

a damp cloth. Dry the blade before sharpening.

• Use a grinding wheel or handfile to remove nicks from the cut ting edge. If using a grinding wheel, match the existing edge angle to the wheel. If hand-filing, file at the same angle as the existing edge.

• File edges to 1/32 inch, or about the size of a period at the end of a sentence.

• Avoid overheating of the blade, as this could warp it.

• For optimum winter storage, clean the blade with solvent or oil. Avoid using water because it will promote rust.

“Follow these tips to help you better prepare your mower for win ter storage and also save you steps this coming spring,” Upham said. Upham and his colleagues in KState’s Department of Horticulture and Natural Resources produce a weekly Horticulture Newslet ter with tips for maintaining home landscapes. The newsletter is avail able to view online or can be deliv ered by email each week. Interested persons can also send their gardenand yard-related questions to Up ham atwupham@ksu.edu, or con tact your local K-State Research and Extension office.

GARDEN CALENDAR

November list of what to do in the garden.

LAWN

• Mulch, mow, or rake fallen leaves off the lawn to prevent winter suffocation.

• Fertilize bluegrass and tall fescue with high nitrogen fertilizer to promote root develop ment and spring green up.

• Water turf to provide winter moisture for improved vigor.

• Control dandelions, henbit and chickweed.

• Mow at 2 to 3 inches.

• Drain gas from lawn mower engine or add a stabilizer for winter storage.

• Beat the spring rush by taking lawn mower to the shop for repairs and blade sharpening.

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Sort apples in storage and remove spoiled fruit.

• Clean and remove fallen fruit from around trees to reduce insects and disease next year.

• Treat peaches for peach leaf curl while dormant.

• Review garden notes about successes and failures.

• Start planning for next year.

• Take a soil test and make needed adjust ments.

• Till garden soil and add organic matter.

• Plant a green manure crop such as winter wheat or rye for added organic matter.

• Remove all debris from the garden area to reduce insects and disease next year.

• Clean tomato cages and store.

TREES AND SHRUBS

• Water newly planted trees and shrubs.

• Protect young plants from rabbit damage by wrapping or making a wire screen.

• Continue to plant new trees and shrubs.

• Rake leaves.

• Check mulch layers and replenish to main tain a 2- to 3-inch depth.

• Prune dead or hazardous limbs.

• Do not prune spring-flowering trees and shrubs until after they bloom.

• Water evergreens to reduce winter injury for dry soil conditions.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Check plants for insects such as aphids and spider mites.

• Keep plants away from heat vents and cold drafts.

• Locate plants about 1 foot away from win dows to protect from winter cold.

• Reduce or stop fertilizing until spring.

• Water as needed and avoid letting roots stand in water.

• Rinse to remove dust from leaves.

• Continue dark treatment of poinsettias for holiday blooming.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

• Plant and water amaryllis bulbs for Christmas blooms.

FLOWERS

• Clean up rose bed to help reduce disease for next season.

• Remove frost-killed annuals.

• Till annual flowerbeds and add organic matter to improve soil health.

• Continue to plant spring flowering bulbs.

• Dig and store tender bulbs, cannas, gladi olus, dahlias, and others in a cool, dark, dry area.

• Cut back tall rose canes to 24 inches to prevent winter breakage.

• Mulch tea roses with a cone of garden soil about 6 inches deep over the plant.

• Leave dead stems on perennials to provide nesting areas for native bees and pollina tors.

• Wind blown leaves in gardens provide a natural area for overwintering beneficial insects.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Clean and oil garden tools, sprayers and other equipment for winter storage.

• Drain garden hoses and sprinklers and store indoors for increased life.

• Start a compost pile with fall leaves.

• Turn compost pile to hasten breakdown.

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.

How Hydrangeas Change Color

Plain talk about which ones you can and can’t control

There are two characteristics of hydrangeas that lead to all the confusion surround ing this perennially popular ge nus: flower color. Let’s talk plainly about which hydrangeas change color, how they do it, and which ones you can, and can’t, control. In this article, I’ll go over each of the main types of hydrangeas you’ll find on gardening websites and out at the garden center – bigleaf, mountain, panicle, smooth, oak leaf, and climbing hydrangeas.

Bigleaf and mountain: these hydrangeas change color based on soil chemistry

Bigleaf and mountain hydran geas can shift from pink to purple or blue depending on the soil pH and the presence of aluminum. Alu minum is a naturally occurring ele ment in many soils – in fact, it’s the third-most abundant element in the earth’s outer layer. However, alumi num is only available for the plant to metabolize in acidic soils. There fore, in order to get blue flowers on a hydrangea, the soil must both contain aluminum and be acidic. If only one of those conditions is true, these same hydrangeas will bloom pink or red.

If you would like to change the color of your bigleaf or mountain hydrangea flowers, let’s talk about what to add to the soil to change the pH*

Alkaline soil – pH of 7.5 and above – pink flowers

If your soil is neutral or acidic you can add lime to raise the pH.

Neutral soil – pH of 6.5 to 7.5 – usually a bit of a blend of color, leaning toward pink

Acidic soil – pH of 6.5 and below – blue or purple flowers

If your soil is alkaline or neutral, you can apply garden sulfur with aluminum added. It’s really the aluminum that the plant absorbs that changes the flowers blue, but the soil needs to be acidic enough for the process to happen. Read the

labels of the products at your gar den center carefully to make sure the one you choose includes alumi num.

*Changing the soil pH takes time, so be patient. Don’t ap ply more than the recommended

amount of the product you buy as this can drastically affect the hydrangea and surrounding plants.

For example – if the pH is low ered too quickly, it can lead to some purple or brown tints in the foliage because the plant cannot take up phosphorous from the soil.

Panicle and oakleaf: these hydrangeas change color based on temperature and day length

The progression from white or green flowers in summer to vivid shades of pink, burgundy, and red in late summer/early fall is a hall mark of panicle hydrangeas; certain oakleaf hydrangeas, like Gatsby Pink, also develop dazzling color as they mature.

The color change on these hydrangeas is brought on by the shorter days and cooler tempera tures that develop as summer gives way to fall. There is really nothing that the gardener can do to encour age better color with these plants aside from keeping them well-wa tered so they don’t dry out and turn brown.

One caveat here: not all panicle and oakleaf hydrangeas develop color. Many, like Puffer Fish pan icle hydrangea, stay white up un til the first frost, when they turn brown.

Smooth and climbing: these hydrangeas don’t undergo dramatic color changes

Some hydrangeas bloom one color and stay that color until they age to dusty pale green or a pa pery light tan. There are a few ex ceptions within these species, but overall most smooth and climbing hydrangeas do this reliably.

Hopefully that cleared up your hydrangea color change questions, but if not, you can learn more at www.mypwcolorchoices.com/hy drangea-info.

All in when it comes to gardening, Kristina delights in almost every part of the experience – new leaves emerging in spring, pollinators buzzing in summer, birds devouring berries in fall, and the somber beauty of seed heads in winter. Thanks to a background in horticulture and gardening her own clay-filled, flowery USDA zone 5b plot, she’s learned plenty of practical things as well.

Hydrangea quercifolia Gatsby Pink is an oakleaf hydrangea.

Hydrangea macrophylla

is considered a big-leaf hydrangea.

KRISTINA