KCG Oct2020

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The Kansas City

GARDENER October 2020 | kcgmag.com

Plant Tulips in Fall planting the promise of spring


editor’s notes

The Kansas City

GARDENER Independently owned and operated since 1996 PUBLISHER Michael Cavanaugh EDITOR Elizabeth Cavanaugh CONTRIBUTORS Nik and Theresa Hiremath Lenora Larson Andy Marsh Nadia Navarrete-Tindall Dennis Patton Judy Penner Tamra Reall Chelsea Didde Rice Denise Sullivan Scott Woodbury DISTRIBUTION Publishers Delivery Solutions, Inc. IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DISTRIBUTE the magazine at your place of business, please contact Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 NEED MORE MAGAZINES? mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 CONTACT US P.O. Box 8725 Prairie Village, KS 66208 913-648-4728 ADVERTISING Mike Cavanaugh at mike@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728 EDITORIAL Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

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orking from home is old hat for Mr. Gardener and me. After 25 years of learning what works (e.g., his and her offices) and what does not (e.g., shouting from the upstairs office to the staff downstairs), we have ironed out most of the kinks. The dress code is simple – clothing required, and the work hours are flexible – get it done before the deadline. Paid time off is granted as long as you take your work with you. Grievances are taken seriously, must be typed, and submitted in triplicate – one copy to Chairman of the Board (address unknown), one copy to the Grievance Committee (eliminated due to lack of funding), and the last copy to be posted on the break room bulletin board (see Chairman of the Board for further instructions). If you have questions, ask the receptionist to use her phone, so you can call someone who cares. Most importantly, when you pack your lunch, don’t forget to pack your sense of humor! All kidding aside, I am the luckiest person on the planet. I get to live and work and play with my best friend, Mr. Gardener. We continue to be grateful for this magazine business and for the ongoing support from the gardening community. One of the many perks of a home office is the ability to stroll. At any time of my choosing, I can walk away from the phone and computer and escape into the garden. No matter the season, the pathway to the garden is ever ready to receive any guest.

WEBSITE kcgmag.com

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October 2020 | kcgmag.com

Recently one such opportunity occurred. After a particularly busy morning, I refilled my coffee cup and headed out to the front garden. I’m inclined to visit the front yard first, wanting to see what the neighbors see, good or bad. Is it as bad as I think? Or is it worse? So I’m standing on the curb in front of the house taking in the view, and kicking the pine bark mulch back into the garden. Out of the corner of my eye, I can see my neighbor Don on his daily walk, headed in my direction. He sees me with my hands on my hips, and says, “Well, what do you think?” Trying to come up with the least negative comment I reply, “It sure looks tired.” These end-of-summer days are not kind to my garden. The daylilies have finished blooming and the remaining brown foliage accumulates on the ground. Similarly, the coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, and balloon flowers all display their spent blossoms. Even though I deadheaded the salvia in early summer, the rebloom was minimal. This is typical in this perennial bed. Because I want to extend the season, I am learning to identify those perennials that shine not only at the end of summer, but also well into fall and perhaps until first frost. The garden is a work in progress. After exploring my disappointments of the garden, and what I plan to include next season, thankfully Don moves on to ask about how we’re doing, considering the coronavirus and the state of our world now. I return the question,

and we continue to catch up on neighborhood news. Our conversation comes back around to our kids, how they are faring with jobs, and health, and their families. The biggest and most recent news is our son’s marriage. Yep, that shirtless, teenaged boy that mowed with earphones said “I do!” last month. This is the same boy that was first in line for dad’s wheelbarrow rides. The boy that came home with a plastic sandwich bag full of pennies as reward for helping the elderly neighbor take her garbage to the curb. Our son, compassionate, sincere, champion for the underdog, evolving gardener, and lovingly devoted to his beautiful bride. We are deeply proud of the man he has become. I’ll see you in the garden!

In this issue

HOW TO SUBSCRIBE See details on page 23. SUBSCRIPTION Elizabeth Cavanaugh elizabeth@kcgmag.com 913-648-4728

late summer

October 2020 | kcgmag.com 4 7 8 11 12 14

Ask the Experts Winter Birding Prep Rose Report Butterfly Garden in Winter Plant Tulips in Fall Native Plant Roots

17 Plants on Your Plate 19 Winterize Sprinkler System 20 Groundnut 21 Kids Ask Dr. Bug 22 Garden Calendar 23 Events


© 2020, The Scotts Company, LLC. All rights reserved

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Ask the Experts CLIMBING MILKWEED, FEARSOME OR FRIENDLY Question: I have a vine growing in my garden which has been identified as Honeyvine Milkweed. I am getting mixed messages on whether this is a pesky weed or desirable plant. Answer: As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder – that would be true for this plant. Honeyvine milkweed, also known as Climbing milkweed, Bluevine and Sandvine, has its positive attributes as well as negative. Let’s start with the positive. As a member of the milkweed family, this vine is a host plant for monarchs. The downside is this weedy vine can reach up to 20 feet, covering everything in its path. It spreads by underground roots that can pop up 10 or 20 feet from the mother plant. It can shade out desirable plants in the garden. Control is challenging as it is next to impossible to treat with chemicals. Hand pulling and removing is probably the best option. I guess if you can control where it grows, it could be left as a host plant. Unfortunately, it pretty much pops up where it wants. In my garden, I consider it a weed. I have planted other more desirable milkweed species for the monarchs. But it is your garden and your call. That is why you will get different answers. Remember, a weed is a plant out of place. LAWN FERTILIZATION, CLOSE IS GOOD ENOUGH Question: I have read and reread your K-State lawn fertilization information. The more I read, the more confused I become. The Extension recommendations on how much fertilizer to apply does not match the fertilizer products on the market. The nutrient they contain and the timing of the application is different. Please just make it simple! Answer: Oh, boy, that’s a tall order. I understand the confusion

as I cannot always find the product I am looking for when treating my own lawn, and I know what I am doing. Over the years, I have adopted this philosophy – close is good enough. We are fertilizing a lawn, not building a skyscraper. Here are the points to remember:

Honeyvine milkweed

Japanese beetles

The most critical time to fertilizer bluegrass or tall fescue is September and the second most important is November. Unless a soil test calls for it, lawns only really need nitrogen (the first number on the bag). Look for products with this number as close to 30 as possible. The second number (phosphorus) and third (potassium) should be as close to zero as possible. If you are overseeding your lawn, use a balanced fertilizer or starter fertilizer instead. For an average lawn, make 2 to 3 applications in the fall. This gets tricky as the number of applications does not matter as much as the amount of nutrient. K-State lawn fertilization recommends 2 to 3 pounds of actual nitrogen in the fall. Most bagged fertilizers put down 1 pound or less fertilizer at an application. If you put down two applications, once in September and again in November, you are at 2 pounds or less. Push your lawn

needed when the fertilizer is required. Manufacturers are trying to make it easy. Treat weeds with a liquid, not granular fertilizer. Hope that helps, but I know it is still confusing. What you want is a recipe, but the manufacturer cannot deliver a one size fits all formula. Keep trying as I said, close is good enough!

DENNIS PATTON Horticulture Agent 4

October 2020 | kcgmag.com

a little more in the fall by applying a third application in October. That would total the recommended 3 pounds or maybe less depending on the product. Skip the products with weed control as that is more confusing and weed control is not always

WINTER COVER CROP, BUILDING HEALTHY SOIL Question: Can you recommend a winter cover crop to improve the soil for my vegetable garden? Answer: I might be in the doghouse with several people over this answer but my take is a cover crop isn’t needed for a home garden. I know they provide many benefits, but hear me out. We had used cover crops in our Extension Master Gardener demonstration gardens before they were trendy. The problem is most are very aggressive growers, so here is what happens. They are planted in the fall, quickly estab-

lishing. Then on warm winter days, they start to grow and produce a lot of green vegetation (which is desirable) and dense, thick roots (again desirable). But by the time you get ready to plant in March, the crop is so dense it is not easy to terminate. The result is a clumpy mass of roots in which you must try to dig through to do any spring planting. They can create more work than benefits. Most home gardens do not have the proper tillage equipment to incorporate cover crops. Adding quality compost will accomplish the same results. Building healthy soil is the base to produce healthy plants and can be achieved in other ways than planting a cover crop. IS THERE SUCH A THING AS JAPANESE BEETLE PREVENTION Question: Is there anything I can do now to prevent Japanese beetles from returning next summer? I hate them! Answer: Japanese beetles wreak havoc on gardens from late June through mid-August. In October, the grub stag is tucked safely away for the winter in the soil. The grubs are found in lawns, gardens, ditches, pretty much any grassy patch. There are no controls for Japanese beetles at this time. Grub control products applied in early to mid-June can help reduce the number of new grubs that will develop and emerge the following year. But most of the adult beetles finding their way to your garden are not coming from home lawns. They are flying in from “waste lands” that will never be treated. Sorry to tell you, but there is not much you can do now or anytime to reduce the potential number of adult Japanese beetles. Their numbers will fluctuate with summer weather patterns. The wetter the summer, the more adults we are likely to see the following year. Based on July rains in 2020, we can predict we might see a higher number of adults in 2021.

Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000.


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The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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Winter birding preparation a few chores to accomplish before winter moves in

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ith the heat of summer behind us, thoughts turn to colorful fall foliage and crisp mornings. It’s also a great time of year to take care of housekeeping for your birds, and prepare for winter which lies just a few months ahead. Now is an excellent time to clean your bird feeders. Summertime gets busy and our best intentions to clean feeders somehow get superseded by other life priorities. As with any type of housekeeping, the more often you do it, the easier it is each time. Unless it’s been a long time since you last cleaned your feeders, the task should be fairly easy. Many feeders are designed to be easily disassembled, allowing access to hard-to-clean areas. The primary element which attracts and retains grime in your feeders is the oil from your quality seed you’ve had in your feeders. That oil residue adheres to many surfaces and in turn attracts dirt and debris and over time can be a bit of a mess. As oil is the prime culprit, cleaning solutions which cut through oil are best. Any household dish detergent which is designed to cut through oil/grease will work. Sometimes, just like doing dishes, it’s easier if you can soak your feeder in a hot soapy solution for hours or even overnight. Other options include a 50/50 solution of household vinegar and water. Also, a 1 to 10 ratio of bleach to water can be used. Regardless of which cleaning solution you use, be sure to rinse all parts thoroughly with water and ensure they are fully dry before refilling with seed. Another true “housekeeping” activity is the care for your bird houses. By now, all our cavity nesters have long since fledged their last brood of babies. Now is the best time to clean these houses and prepare them for next spring

because many houses will be used throughout the winter as roosting boxes. Roosting is an interesting behavior where birds, even of different species, will huddle together inside a cavity/house to stay out of the bitter cold and winter weather. Clean out all the nesting material in the house and dispose of it in your trash can. Check for any loose screws or nails and tighten along with any loose hinges. Also check for and remove any splinters or other intrusions into the nesting cavity. If you see any signs of mold or fungus, clean with 1 to 10 solution of bleach and allow to dry thoroughly in the sun. Also, if any cavity openings have been expanded from their original size, affix a portal cover to restore to original size. Now is a good time to consider the placement of feeders and determine if you need to move them to a “winter” location to make it safer and easier to access during winter weather. Ensure you have a safe and clear path which is not likely to become icy, so you can easily and safely refill your feeders. This is a time of year when some people move their feeding stations closer to their home and/or onto their decks or patios for easy access. Autumn is a good time to ensure you have all your winter birding needs on hand or plan to purchase. Some will switch the type of feeders they use and will accordingly bring in, for example, their hummingbird feeders and clean them and store for the winter. Please leave hummingbird feeders up until October 31 to ensure a source of food for any late migrating hummingbirds. If you don’t feed suet all year, autumn is a great time to resume feeding suet. You can also switch to other higher fat and protein foods as well and purchase accordingly. Another important consideration is providing water for your birds through the winter with either adding a heater

NIK HIREMATH Birding Expert

Please leave hummingbird feeders up through October 31 to ensure a source of food for any late migrating hummingbirds.

Keep feeders full in winter so that the red male house finch will visit all season long. to an existing bird bath or buying a heated birdbath. So, take advantage of these cooler days before the bite of win-

ter sets in to get your housekeeping chores completed and preparations made for a winter filled with joyful bird watching.

Local birding experts Nik and Theresa Hiremath own and operate Wild Birds Unlimited of Leawood at 11711 Roe Avenue, Leawood, Kansas. Contact them at 913-491-4887. The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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Rose Report

season filled with stunning, prolific blooms

T

he Laura Conyers Smith Rose Garden has had one of the most spectacular seasons in the 30 plus years I have been working in the garden. This year the Rose Garden started blooming in mid-May and has not stopped blooming, as I am writing this on September 4. In a typical season, the rose garden will provide approximately three big flushes of bloom. Remarkably, this year the whole season has been one big flush of constant blooms. For the past 20 years, a group of dedicated Rose Garden Groomers deadhead the roses weekly during the growing season. This year I am so grateful for the all the help especially since the rose bushes are continuously blooming with a large number of blooms, while simultaneously are pushing out many new buds. The roses are really giving the Groomers and the Felco prun-

ers a workout. There are a few things I did differently this year and one was using compost for mulch instead of bark mulch. I was finding that the bark mulch was eating up the liquid fertilizers and the nutrients were having a hard time getting to the plants. I also fertilized the roses every two to three weeks with a combination of Earth Right Products and then immediately watered in the fertilizer very well pushing it into the root zone. I also kept the roses well-watered throughout the growing season since roses love water but never soggy feet. I am thankful that Janmarie Hornack, owner of Earth Right Products, has been donating product to the garden since 2008, and using natural products has really enhanced the garden. The weather also played a role in the success of the roses this sea-

JUDY PENNER Expert Rosarian 8

October 2020 | kcgmag.com

son. In recent years, we have gone from cold to hot not having a spring at all and having too much rain. However, this year May and June were more spring like, with cooler than normal temperatures and the rain came at just the right time each week. July surprised us with large amounts of rain and cooler than normal temperatures which I and the roses appreciated. August was dry and the spider mites showed up but I continued watering well and fertilizing during August and the roses continued to have continuous overwhelming bloom. I am enjoying the beauty of the garden this year but planning for the future of the garden is always on my mind as it is with most gardeners. The Kansas City Rose Society has a Rose Garden Committee, chaired by Lauren English, who collaborates with me in planning which roses will be removed

and which roses will be added to the garden every year. This process starts around the first of the year and if all goes well we have the order in by September. Well this year Lauren English and the committee worked tirelessly and helped facilitate getting the rose order in by July. I know that may seem early to most people but if you are ordering roses online or just with your local nursery, it is better to order early since roses sell out quickly and can become difficult to find. In some cases you may have to wait a year to get a particular rose but it is worth the wait to get just the right rose. I am thankful for the partnership between The Kansas City Rose Society, Stewards of the Garden and the Kansas City Parks Department. The Rose Society purchases roses for the Rose Garden every year which is a wonderful gift and the Kansas City Parks maintains the Garden and the park. I am also thankful for Moffet’s Nursery in St. Joseph, Missouri. Bob and Debbie Stubblefield have been a great resource for roses for our garden over many years helping us find the roses needed for the garden. Now that October is here we rose growers are getting ready to prepare our roses for winter. I normally teach a rose demonstration in October in the rose garden to show gardeners how to winterize roses, but this year, with the pandemic effecting all public gatherings, I will be teaching this class virtually. I would like to invite you to visit my YouTube Channel Judy Penner to learn how to winterize your roses. There are five additional videos on how to deadhead different types of roses. Please like and subscribe to my channel to get updated videos on roses. Remember to stop and smell the Roses!

Judy Penner is Expert Rosarian at Loose Park, Kansas City, Missouri. You may reach her at judyssecretgardens@gmail.com.


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www.hixandsonaquatics.com The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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October 2020 | kcgmag.com

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The Butterfly Garden in Winter

Host and Nectar Plants Your perennial plants are dormant to avoid dealing with the cold. By definition, perennials survive at least two winters’ freezing temperatures, especially if you or Mother Nature has tenderly mulched them. Mother Nature uses fallen leaves and decaying plant debris to protect the plant’s crown from our midwestern temperature roller coaster. All the annuals are dead, not from the cold, but from their DNA. Annuals are genetically programed for a life cycle of: germination, foliage, flowers, then seeds, and ultimately death. Think Zinnias or Cosmos or Cleome. You can prolong their lives by deadheading but they will not survive past their allotted annual timespan. However, the seeds of many species (but not necessarily their hybrids) live on in the soil to germinate the next spring if left undisturbed. Plants from zone 7 or higher perish in our zone 6a cold temperatures, even if they are perennials in their native growing zone. You may call these tropical plants “annuals”; however, they are true perennials and unlike the true annuals, they will survive through the winter if you bring them indoors to heat and light. I grow Lantana, Coleus and tropical Pipevines in pots and easily relocate them to my greenhouse for the winter. “Cleaning” your garden puts the plants at risk by removing the protective leaf blanket and removes the seeds, which could be next year’s flowers. Why would you do that?

Butterflies The Monarch butterfly, and also Red Admirals, Cloudless Sulphurs and Painted Ladies, migrate to spend the winter in tropical locations despite the difficult journey back and forth. However, migrating is the exception. Most butterflies spend the winter in your garden, hidden in the debris as a chrysalid, adult, caterpillar or egg while they await the return of spring temperatures. If you clean your garden in fall, i.e., remove the plant debris, you are also removing many butterflies that are in diapause (insect hibernation). They are attached to dead leaves and stems, usually as a chrysalis, and some caterpillars get through winter in a rolled leaf sleeping bag. Other Insects Like butterflies, other insects and invertebrates snooze through winter (the diapause) in your yard. Hiding places include: attached to plant debris, inside hollow stems, underground, under mulch, and in the leaf litter. If you disturb them with a fall or early spring clean-up, you unintentionally kill them. This slaughter includes butterflies, bees and fireflies. Remember, 97% of insects are desirable as either benign or as highly beneficial members of your ornamental garden’s diverse community of plants and insects. “Cleaning” your garden destroys this ecosystem. In contrast, vegetable gardeners should thoroughly clean up their gardens in the fall and dispose of all debris because these monoculture plantings have attracted insect pests and many are specific to your particular crop. You don’t want them to survive the winter in the garden’s debris or mulch! Summary: Winter Butterfly Garden Strategies The message is clear: continue cleaning up your vegetable garden. Mow or bag/compost leaves

LENORA LARSON Butterfly Maven

on the lawn. In your ornamental garden, Mother Nature’s mulch should be left in place. By early March, the remaining refuse has started to decompose and is ready to be gently crumbled to continue as the mulch that will protect your plants and butterflies. This natural FREE mulch will conserve water,

block weed growth and decay into the compost that feeds your plants. And both your plants and butterflies will thank you.

Photos by Lenora Larson.

I

t’s January and you are inside, dressed in warm fleece and sipping hot tea. Meanwhile, what’s happening outdoors in your frozen gardens? Fortunately, in our temperate zone (the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) defines us as “zone 6a”), plants and animals have evolved winter strategies to survive the four months of snow and rollercoaster temperatures.

The Praying Mantis spends the winter in an egg case that resembles a burned marshmallow.

Argiope, that huge yellow and black garden spider, survives as an egg in this spherical case of the despicable Tobacco Budworm, which devours your Petunia buds.

The Black Swallowtail chrysalis looks like part of the twig.

A Marais des Cygnes Master Gardener, Lenora is a member of the Idalia Butterfly Society and Kansas Native Plant Society. She gardens in the clay soil and cruel winds of Paola, KS. She may be contacted at lenora.longlips@gmail.com. The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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Plant Tulips in the Fall planting the promise of spring with spring-blooming tulip bulbs

A

s the summer plants fade and temperatures cool, many of us are still working from or staying at home and looking out the window daily at our yards. With thoughts of the winter ahead, now is the time to plant some bright colors and patterns for next spring. Now is the time for tulip bulbs! Below is a simple guide to help you navigate the world of tulips. These bulbs are purchased and planted now and can be a relatively inexpensive way to bring bright splashes of color to your landscape next spring. Different Types of Tulips Darwin Hybrid Tulips Darwin hybrids produce large, showy flowers with a classic tulip shape: broad toward the base and narrower at the top. These come in a wide range of colors and stand approximately 20 to 28” tall with long, graceful stems that are ideal for cut flower arrangements. Darwin hybrid tulips are one of the best types for naturalizing, which means they often bloom for more than one year. Botanical/Species Tulips This group of tulips is closest in appearance to the original tulips which first grew in Central Asia— meaning it has not been significantly hybridized. Because of this, it naturalizes especially well and the short, small blooms will have your landscape looking colorful in spring for many years to come. Bunch Flowering Tulips With a self-explanatory name, bunch flowering tulips produce several flower heads from one bulb. The flowers are sometimes smaller than single flowering tulips, but the mass of color they create can really make an impact.

Double Tulips Multi-petaled blooms resembling a peony or English garden rose give double tulips an elegantly full look in both the garden and the vase. Parrot Tulips Parrot tulips are some of the most exotic and unique looking tulips. Each blossom is a work of art! A parrot tulip’s petals are its most identifiable feature because they are adorned with frills, puckers, ruffles and divots. This unique texture seems to amplify the stunning colors, and the shape of the flower heads change as the blooms mature. How to Plant In the Kansas City area, late September through October is the optimal time to plant tulips and other spring blooming bulbs. To plant, rake aside any mulch in the planting area and dig a hole for each bulb. Traditional advice dictates each hole be about six inches deep, but a 2011 research study from Cornell University proved that gardeners can also have success by “top planting” which involves loosening the soil about two inches deep, placing the bulbs on top of the soil and covering them with a two to four inch layer of mulch. Either way, bulbs should be spaced according to the package instructions. Adding half a tablespoon of bone meal or Espoma Bulb Tone at the bottom of each hole is optional, but can improve the plant’s vigor in following years if you’re planting tulips that are known to perennialize. Place the bulb at the bottom of the hole with the pointy end pointing up toward the sky, then fill the soil back in on top of the bulb. Rake any mulch back over the top of the area, and you’re finished! In the spring, after tulips and other spring blooming bulbs are finished with their colorful show,

CHELSEA DIDDE RICE Gardening Enthusiast 12

October 2020 | kcgmag.com

Tulip Angelique Double Pink

Tulip Flaming Parrot it’s important to leave the green foliage alone for several weeks until it starts to yellow and dry up. The bulb draws nutrients from the foliage and will use those stores to bloom again the following year, if it’s a variety that tends to perennialize. If you’re short on time or have no idea where to start, a few of my favorite bulbs are Angelique

(pink), Golden Apeldoorn (yellow), Red Impression (red) and Pays Bas (white). No matter which type of tulip you decide to plant, those crisp, colorful blooms will be a breath of fresh air after our upcoming cold, Midwestern winter. So head out to the garden center and take your pick of tulips!

When Chelsea isn’t at work as a senior communications specialist, she is an avid gardener who enjoys teaching people how easy it can be to garden. You may reach her at chelseadidde@gmail.com.


Species Tulip

Tulip Golden Apeldoorn

Pink Tulip Darwin Hybrid

Species Tulip Mix

Tulip Double Mix

Jumbo Darwin Tulip Red Yellow

Tulip Pays Bas The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

13


Photo by Shaw Nature Reserve.

Photo by Bruce Schuette.

Native Plant Roots Come in all Shapes, Sizes, and Depths

Pale purple coneflower (Echinacea pallida) at Penn. A total of 289 plant species have been recorded at the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s 160-acre, original, unplowed Penn-Sylvania Prairie in Dade County, MO. In July 2018, botanists identified 46 native species in a 20 x 20 inch frame, setting a new world record for plant richness at this scale.

T

o say that native plants have deep roots is like saying all Italians are great cooks, all goldfish are gold, and all cats are white with black spots. These statements are sometimes true, but definitely not always. Plants on earth have evolved and adapted to grow in almost every environment and soil type. To do this, they have diverse root anatomies. Some roots are fine, dense, and shallow (sedges and azalea, for instance), others are coarse—like jump ropes—spreading out wide

(like wild indigo and redbud), and yet others grow like a carrot, with a trunk that shoots straight down as far as it can go (e.g., prairie dock and compass plant). I think the misconception that native plants have deep roots stems from studies that came out of the tallgrass prairie region where plant roots were excavated to a depth of 10 feet or more. In many areas of the Midwest, prairie soil is very deep, the result of ten thousand years of plant growth cycles, where roots expanded during periods

SCOTT WOODBURY Horticulturist 14

October 2020 | kcgmag.com

of optimal growth and died back slightly during periods of flood or drought. These cycles distributed organic matter (compost) deep in the soil column, generating rich, fertile soils throughout the heart of the tallgrass prairie region. Today it grows the richest corn and soybean crops in the world. A more accurate way to look at native plant roots (or for that matter, roots of plants anywhere) would be to think of each species as being vertically and horizontally territorial underground. For example, there

The root of a 15-year-old compass plant (Silphium laciniatum), dug from Shaw Nature Reserve with a back hoe. are many species living closely together in ancient remnant tallgrass prairies (miraculously some still exist). For example, the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Penn-Sylvania Prairie holds the world record for plant diversity on a fine scale, with 46 native species documented within a 20 by 20 inch frame. One reason that they can live so close together is that each species is vertically segregated. Some species grow deep (culver’s root and leadplant); some lie shallow at the surface (strawberry and pussy-

Horticulturist Scott Woodbury is the Curator of the Whitmore Wildflower Garden at Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, MO, where he has worked with native plant propagation, design, and education for 28 years, and which is supported by the Missouri Dept. of Conservation. He also is an advisor to the Missouri Prairie Foundation’s Grow Native! program.


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Prairie roots come in many forms, from thick taproots to fine networks. Note the shallow roots of non-native turf grass, at far left. toes); and others take the middleground (goldenrod and aster). The other way they can exist so close together is through horizontal mixing, where coarse rhizomatous root systems (common milkweed and plains slough sedge) weave between fine-textured root networks of other grassland species. And then there are plants that have bulbs, corms and tubers, which are compressed underground plant stems that go dormant for part of the year (wild hyacinth, onion and lily). These plants are also woven between shallow, fine-textured root networks close to the surface. When they go dormant, their roots died back, adding organic matter into the topsoil. All plants do this to some degree. Underground roots and stems grow and die annually from fluctuating soil moisture, winter freeze and thaw, and interactions with micro-organisms like bacteria, fungi, algae, protozoa, and many types of invertebrate animals living in the soil. Some beneficial organisms transform dead plant roots and stems into usable forms of nutrients. Others graft onto plant roots to form conduits for nutrient and water uptake, and others protect plants against disease and root foraging by pests. It’s no wonder why diverse tallgrass prairies are so hard (or impossible) to recreate. The most diverse part of the prairie (or any remnant ecosystem) is below ground. Try to picture a teaspoon of soil, har-

boring over a billion organisms, which prairie soil does. Restoration biologists and horticulturists are busy scratching their heads, trying to figure out how to replicate this in reconstructed plant habitats, built landscapes, and gardens. As you can imagine, this area of study is in its infancy and there is still much to learn and discover. But as for plant root anatomy, there is consensus among experts. Plant roots come in all sizes and shapes and they are critical for rainwater infiltration into the soil. That’s why rainwater runs over the surface of mowed lawns, but moves down into the soil where there are taller plants. Turf roots are about three inches deep, compared to the roots of garden plants, that may be two to three feet deep, depending on how deep the topsoil is. In construction areas (like around your house), topsoil is shallow or gone altogether. It takes years for topsoil to improve. It doesn’t improve much if all you grow is lawn, but if you introduce a diversity of plants, you will find that slowly, organic matter will increase, compaction will decrease, plant roots will grow deeper, and rain water will move into the topsoil quicker. It may take a decade for topsoil to noticeably improve, so adding several inches of topsoil or tilling compost into the soil surface of new gardens will improve topsoil faster. So next time you hear that native plants have deep roots, think again. After all, not all goldfish are gold.

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PLANTS ON YOUR PLATE Spaghetti Squash rich in potassium which aids in regulation of blood pressure. With this nutrient profile, it’s easy to see why this low calorie and high fiber vegetable is a popular pasta alternative among the calorie conscious. When selecting spaghetti squash, look for firm yellow squash that are about the size of a football and heavy for their size. They will keep for up to two months, when held in a cool dark place. It can also be cooked and frozen, though it may give off liquid after thawing, so plan to drain before serving. This squash can be cooked by boiling, microwaving or oven

roasting. My preferred method is to cut in half and remove the seeds and roast on a foil lined baking sheet in the oven at 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes. I know many people who prefer to microwave or bake spaghetti squash whole, but it is important to remember to pierce the squash several times, with a knife or ice pick, to allow steam to escape during cooking, or it could possibly explode, leaving you with a big mess to clean. After cooking, scrape the squash to release the spaghetti like strands and serve with your favorite marinara or with a simple roasted tomato and garlic blend like the recipe below.

Spaghetti Squash with Tomatoes and Garlic

I

n the spring, when many people were having a renewed interest in gardening, my husband and I found ourselves a little late to the party. While we have always had a vegetable garden, we got a late start, due to my recovery from rotator cuff surgery. Our tardiness, combined with the effect of frenzied seed and starter-plant purchasing by the masses, resulted in limited availability of some of our favorite varieties of plants. This led us to try some things that we have never grown before…including spaghetti squash. I’m not sure if it is really this easy to grow or if the stars simply aligned, but if things continue as they are (in spite of squash bugs) we are looking at a bumper crop that should feed us well into the fall! While most squash are native to Central America, spaghetti squash was first recorded in Manchuria, China in the late 1800s. It was then introduced to Japan in the 1920s by

the Aichi Prefectural Agricultural Research Station and improved by the Sakata seed company around 1934. In the later 1930s, this squash variety was brought to North America by the Burpee company under the name of ‘vegetable spaghetti’. While it found a place in victory gardens in the 1940s, it would take another thirty-something years to really gain popularity. Spaghetti squash is a type of winter squash, which are known for their hard rind and long storage life. Unlike other winter squash that have a smooth, velvety texture when cooked, this variety gets its name from the stringy, spaghetti-like strands that result after cooking. It is high in vitamins A and C, which are antioxidants that protect against heart disease and certain cancers. Vitamin A is also beneficial to eye health and Vitamin C helps to prevent bruising and aid skin and gum tissue in healing. Winter squash is also

DENISE SULLIVAN Nutrition Ninja

MAKES 2 SERVINGS INGREDIENTS 1 large spaghetti squash 1 tablespoon olive oil 2-4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 cups cherry tomatoes 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped 2 tablespoons grated parmesan Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut squash in half with sharp knife, scoop out seeds. Bake squash, cut side down, on foil lined baking sheet for 30-40 minutes or until tender when poked with a knife. Cool for 10 minutes, then shred out squash strands with a fork. While squash is cooking, heat oil in a skillet and sauté garlic until fragrant, then add tomatoes and stir until the tomatoes start to pop and break down. Remove skillet from heat and add vinegar. To serve, divide squash between 2 plates and top each with half of the tomato mixture. Top each plate with chopped basil and parmesan cheese and serve. NUTRITION INFORMATION Calories: 193, Total Fat: 8g, Saturated Fat: 1.5g, Sodium: 108mg, Carbohydrates: 28g, Fiber: 6.5g, Protein: 5g Recipe adapted from Seasonal and Simple, analyzed by verywellfit.com.

Denise Sullivan (@MUExtJacksonCo) is a Nutrition and Health Education Specialist for MU Extension in Jackson County. For research based nutrition and food safety information and programs, call 816-4825850 or visit https://extension2.missouri.edu/.tasty side dish for a late-summer picnic. The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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October 2020 | kcgmag.com

As long as you’re amping up your screen time at home …

WATCH SOME BEAUTIFUL ROSE GARDEN VIDEOS!

By Linda Rostenberg Publicity Chair, Kansas City Rose Society

W

e all love a quiet stroll through the Laura Conyers Smith Memorial Rose Garden in Loose Park. But while walking by thousands of roses, have you ever been curious what, exactly, you are look-

ing at? Wonder no more! The Kansas City Rose Society’s talented Rosarians share fascinating stories of the garden and its most outstanding roses, teach us about appearance and scent characteristics, share growing tips and flood our screens with beautiful rosy pictures in our new short, educating and entertaining videos! We are gradually adding them to our new video library featured on our website kansascityrosesociety.org and our new YouTube Channel. Video narrators include American Rose Society Consulting Rosarians John Riley and Laura Dickinson, and Head Rosarian and Loose Park Director Judy Penner. Topics featured are: · A Brief History of the Rose Garden: founded 1931, 130 varieties, 3000 plants! · Climbing Roses, featuring New Dawn: growing roses on vertical structures · Mr. Lincoln, Hybrid Tea Rose: classic beauty and prize-winning fragrance · Quietness, Shrub Rose: disease resistance and non-stop blooms · Roses in the Pollinator Garden (with bees!) · Rosa Hugonis, Species Rose (1899): our earliest bloomer · American Pillar, Hybrid Rose · Floribunda Roses for Every Garden · Gold Medal, Grandiflora · Harison’s Yellow: an Old Garden Rose -1830s · Graham Thomas, David Austin Shrub Roses: easy care, fragrant, Old World A new series of five grooming videos, shot by our garden committee chair Lauren English and taught by Loose Park Director and Head Rosarian Judy Penner. These are all on Judy’s YouTube Channel, or find links to it on the KCRS website. Please look Judy up, subscribe and like her page today! These videos give you close-up lessons in correctly deadheading Grandiflora, David Austin, Hybrid Tea, Shrub and Floribunda Roses. See these links: Grandiflora Roses: https://youtu.be/cORX5XPxAK0 David Austin Shrub Roses: https://youtu.be/GE31Wsge2D0 Hybrid Tea Roses: https://youtu.be/RUNg_NKWHN4 Shrub Roses: https://youtu.be/XXyYtuwUBGE Floribunda Roses: https://youtu.be/x7xNnCE8MHI Check our website regularly, as we have plans to share more topics via videos in the coming months. Check out Kansas City Rose Society’s social media platforms, too. Enjoy photos and information about the Kansas City Rose Society and the rose garden on our Facebook and Instagram pages.


Best Practices for Winterizing Your Sprinkler System

W

ith Kansas City’s fluctuating temperatures, it may be hard to imagine that it’s almost time to winterize your sprinkler system. It’s best to make arrangements now before you wake up on a cold morning to an ice sculpture in your yard—no matter how pretty it may be. We know why we winterize sprinkler systems here in the Midwest. When water freezes, it expands to approximately 9% of its volume and when in a contained space like a plastic pipe, it expands enough to crack and even shatter the PVC pipe. When PVC pipe freezes, it generally freezes in long lengths instead of small sections, making repairs very difficult and costly! Winterizing your sprinklers The best way to prevent this from happening is to have your lawn irrigation system winterized before the coming winter. Ideally, you would want to have this done by Christmas—earlier if you have exposed piping. The winterizing season usually starts the second week of October and runs through to the second to the third week of December, with November being the busiest month. In the Kansas City metropolitan area, we start winterizing lawn sprinkler systems with what we refer to as “above ground systems.” Sprinkler systems in this category can have a primary water supply pipe exiting the house feeding the system and/or an above-ground backflow prevention device. These are the most vulnerable to freeze damage sooner since the parts, generally made of copper and brass, are exposed to the air and have no heat source such as the ground to keep them from freezing during the first few cold snaps of the fall season. We have discovered over the years that the freezing point of 32°

is not really of immediate concern at the beginning of the season, but if the overnight temperatures reach approximately 27 to 28° any supply pipe and backflow devices with water inside under pressure are likely to be damaged from freezing forces. So if you have a system with above-ground piping and/or backflow valve above ground, it is best to protect these components from early “hard” freezes by shutting off the water to the sprinkler system, running a cycle with the controller, and covering the exposed components with a thick blanket or towels until your contractor can complete the winterizing service. Blowing out your irrigation system After many years of servicing lawn sprinkler systems, we are often asked, “Do I need to blow out my irrigation system?” The answer is yes, but there is an exception. Some sprinkler systems are installed with intent in the design, so the system can be winterized by merely shutting off the water at the source and opening a few manual

ANDY MARSH Irrigation Manager

drain valves in the yard using a forked key. Along with the manual drains, “auto drain” valves are connected to the lateral piping to facilitate water draining. This is great for those that know they have this type of set up. Most of the time nobody knows for sure so, if you’re not the original homeowner and don’t have a map of where the valve boxes are located, we have a small problem. But there is a solution. This problem can be solved by blowing out the water with compressed air. A large air compressor is attached to the sprinkler system and the zones are activated, which forces the water out through the sprinkler heads, thus emptying the pipes and preventing freeze damage. This method of winterizing sprinkler systems started in the golf course industry and carried over into the residential market, eliminating the guesswork, uncertainty and frustration that came with searching for valve boxes and worrying if the system was drained thoroughly enough to prevent freeze damage. To eliminate this guesswork, we often design new installations from the start to be blown out every

season. This saves not only water from draining away from the use of “auto” drains but saves on costs on the installation with less material and time to install drains in the appropriate places on the system. Another factor to consider on modern irrigation systems is the use of water-conserving features such as check valves on the sprinkler heads. These check valves prevent water that remains in the pipes after a watering cycle from draining away, just to have to be replenished on the next cycle. These check valves not only “lock in the water” within the pipes but also the head cases as well, making the heads even more vulnerable to freeze damage. If your system has water-conserving features, it more than likely contains sprinkler heads with check valves and it is best to have your system blown out every season. So if you are uncertain about your system design, are new to the house, or have had some freeze damage to your system in the past, it is highly recommended to have an irrigation service contractor winterize your sprinkler system every fall by removing the water with air.

Andy Marsh is an irrigation service manager at Ryan Lawn and Tree. He has been servicing irrigation systems for 28 years and can be reached at andymarsh@ryanlawn.com or 913-381-1505. The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

19


Little-known but old and proud:

L

ong before Columbus came to this continent, one of our little known native edibles, groundnut (Apios americana) was being consumed and even planted intentionally by indigenous people. It has been gaining popularity again in the last few years for its edible tubers, seeds and as an ornamental plant. Daniel Moerma, in his Native American Food Plants, mentions 14 Native American groups that consumed groundnut. Most of them gathered it from the wild, but there is evidence that a few of them, including the Cheyenne, planted it near their settlements. It is also known as hopniss, wild potato, Indian potato, American potato, American bean, Dakota peas and sea vines. According the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service, groundnut is native to most Eastern United States and Canada and is found scattered across Missouri. There are several reports that groundnut was first introduced in Europe in the 1600s, but soon forgotten and then reintroduced in the 1800s in hopes of replacing the diseased Peruvian potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) known as Irish potatoes. Groundnut has been studied extensively for its potential as a domesticated crop. At Louisiana State University by Dr. W.J. Blackmon, B.D. Reynolds and colleagues studied groundnut for more than 10 years in the 1980s to 1990s and developed better performing varieties. Very few of these varieties are still commercially available; however, more work is needed. Groundnut is a perennial herbaceous plant that climbs over other vegetation in natural stands forming dense thickets. It can be trained as a vine on an arbor or trellis in gardens. It has pinnately compound leaves with 3 to 7 leaflets and white latex which make the sap

appear milky. The edible parts of the plant are the tubers and seeds. The tubers are connected by slender rhizomes, forming a necklacelike appearance. They look like potatoes but their taste is a little sweeter, and in Missouri, one has to wait two years after planting to harvest them. Groundnuts should be cooked before eating, and they can be used in recipes calling for regular potatoes. They can be harvested any time of the year, but are at their best in late fall or early spring before they sprout. The foliage dies off after frost but the tuber never freezes. The seeds taste and look like beans or peas but seed production is not high in Missouri or any other northern states. The attractive salmon-pink color flowers are produced in late summer and early fall which makes it also desirable as an ornamental plant. It is important to mention that consuming groundnut tubers may cause severe allergies in some people. Interestingly, there have been cases when people became allergic to this food after consuming it several times; there is still no scientific evidence to confirm the cause of this change. So if you want to try it, go slow. Deer browse on the leaves and preliminary studies conducted in West Virginia suggest that goats may benefit with the consumption of the foliage due to the high protein content; however, they are not recommended for human consumption. Because of the prolific growth of the vines and the tubers, groundnut should be planted separately in vegetable or native plant gardens because they will be difficult to control. From 2014 to 2017, we grew them in raised beds 6 by 3 ft. adding support for the vines in the community garden at Lincoln University campus. During the first year, tubers grew about an inch in

NADIA NAVARRETE-TINDALL Native Plant Specialist 20

October 2020 | kcgmag.com

Photos by Nadia Navarrete-Tindall.

Try groundnut in your vegetable garden.

Dr. Nadia Navarrete-Tindall is a Native Plant Specialist and Educator at Lincoln University. She offers educational workshops and other training about native edible plants and other topics on native plants. She can be reached by email at navarrete-tindalln@lincolnu.edu and on her Facebook page “Native Plants and More.�


diameter. At year two, the largest tubers were the size of a goose egg and grew another inch in the third year. We used them as an ingredient to prepare recipes during food tasting sessions. Because groundnut naturally grows near streams or lakes, plants grow well in moist soil with good drainage. They grow under full sun but grow better under moderate shade. Groundnut is a member of the Fabaceae family and like many members of this family, fixes nitrogen from the air, forming nodules as a result of a beneficial association or symbiosis with rhizobia bacteria. This helps groundnut to

grow well in poor soils. When grown in raised beds, rhizomes can find their way out of the bed, so if aggressiveness is a concern it is recommended to cover the bottom of raised beds with a water permeable material like weed barrier. Several layers of cardboard can provide good results too. In demonstration areas at Lincoln University, groundnuts developed really well and produced nice looking tubers in both pots and beds, but it was much easier to harvest in pots. We harvest the largest tubers and save the small ones to start new plants. Groundnut can be confused with other native edible legumes, such as wild turnip (Pediomelum esculentum) and hog peanut (Amphicarpea bracteata) and nonnative peanut (Arachis hypogaea) also called groundnut in some places. The Flora of Missouri by Yatskievych is a great source to learn to identify these legumes. Apios priceana (Price’s groundnut) is a threatened species only reported in Illinois and four other adjacent states by the USDA. It has not been officially reported in Missouri, but there is a possibility of its existence in southeast Missouri. Groundnuts can be used in any recipe calling for potatoes. When prepared as mashed potatoes, they were drier than regular potatoes. Chef Sam Pfeiffer recommends adding ¼ cup heavy cream and/or ¼ of a cup of chicken or vegetable broth to a cup of mashed groundnuts to improve its consistency. Kelly Kindscher in Edible Wild Plants of the Prairie and Reynolds et al. in their report Domestication of Apios americana report that groundnuts are a good source of carbohydrates, and the tubers and seed contain protein. I love growing potatoes and sweet potatoes and any other kind of tuber, but since we don’t have much sun in our front or backyard we can grow groundnuts as a good substitute. There is nothing more therapeutic and special than getting my hands in the soil to dig these priceless foods. I recommend it! They can feed you and give you the satisfaction of gardening them yourself. If you want to see groundnut and other edible native plants growing as crops, we have a demonstration area we call the finca urban farm at Lincoln University campus. We can offer tours for small groups upon request.

Kids Ask Dr. Bug Here are answers to some of the “scarier” critter questions.

Why do female mosquitoes drink blood while males don’t? Alexander, 14 Baby mosquitoes, called wrigglers because they wiggle down from the surface of the water, eat algae and plankton. As pupae, they don’t eat. Upon emerging as adults, male and female mosquitoes eat plant nectar. When the female mosquito needs to grow eggs, she needs a lot of nutrients and blood is the perfect food. Make sure that you dump standing water after it rains or the sprinklers run so that there isn’t a place for mosquitoes to lay their eggs. This helps you stay bitefree!

Mosquito Why do insects eat poop? Trish, 12 Animals that eat feces are called coprophages. Coprophagous insects can digest the semidigested food of other animals. Plant fibers can be difficult to digest so there are a lot of nutrients left after going through the first time. We’re lucky that some insects, like dung beetles, are happy to eat and/or raise their families in feces because they break down and recycle these nutrients so more plants can grow. There is another reason, though, that insects eat frass, or insect poop. Some insects, like termites, need special organisms in their gut to digest their food. The only way for them to get these organisms is from their nestmates’ frass.

Do eyelash mites grow wings? Ki, 15 Mites, like other arachnids such as spiders and ticks, do not have wings. As weird as it may seem, everyone has these microscopic mites. They are beneficial because they feed on dead skin cells around eyelashes and other hair follicles. If they do cause a problem, a dermatologist can help. How do maggots turn into flies? Soren, 14 I often get asked about baby flies that grow up to be big flies. If a fly has wings, it is an adult and will not get any bigger. I’m impressed with your question because you already realize that maggots are the real baby flies! Just like a caterpillar goes through stages before becoming a butterfly, flies also have four stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Maggots are the larval stage and, depending on the kind of fly, this stage can last days (example: fruit flies) to years (example: deer flies). After they eat enough, at the right temperature, and the right amount of time passes, they will pupate and become a winged adult. Does poison ivy affect animals or just humans? Christian, 19 Leaflets three, let it be! This axiom is best followed by primates, including humans. Fortunately, other animals do not get a rash from poison ivy, but the urushiol oil can be carried on pets’ fur. So, be careful after walking near this plant. The rash is actually an immune response and your body attacks its own skin cells. The plant isn’t all bad, though. Poison ivy drupes, the fruit it produces, is an important food for birds and the leaves are eaten by deer and insects.

TAMRA REALL Horticulture Specialist

Dr. Tamra Reall (@MUExtBugNGarden) is horticulture specialist for MU Extension, Jackson County. For free, research-based gardening tips call 816-833-TREE (8733).

The Kansas City Gardener | October 2020

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GARDEN CALENDAR October list of what to do in the garden.

LAWN

• Recommended mowing heights for bluegrass and tall fescue in the fall is about 3 inches. • Core aerate to help loosen heavy clay soils and break down thatch. • Fertilize now if not already done so once this fall. Fertilize again in November. • Control dandelions, henbit and chickweed the fall. Treat as needed. • Sharpen mower blade if it is not making a clean cut or after every 10 hours of use. • Rake leaves that fall on the turf to avoid winter suffocation. • Mulch mown leaves back into the lawn if debris is not covering the surface.

FLOWERS

• Plant tulips, daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs. • Clean up faded annuals. • Trim perennial stems to tidy garden and keep disease and insects in check. • Plant bulbs in pots to force winter blooming. • Dig tender bulbs such as gladiolas and cannas. Store in a cool, dry place over the winter. • Update the garden journal for successes

and failures while fresh in your mind. • Take advantage of fall sales and plant new perennials. • Divide overgrown perennials.

TREES AND SHRUBS

• Plant new trees and shrubs. • Water establishing plants during dry spells. • Transplant seedlings of trees and shrubs once dormant. • Prune damaged and dead wood from trees and shrubs. • Wrap the bases of young trees and shrubs to protect from rabbits. • Rake leaves and compost, or use as garden mulch. • Remove tree stakes if in place longer than one year.

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

• Store unused seeds in a cool, dry location. • Pick up and discard fallen fruit to reduce disease and insects for next year. • Plant garlic in the fall to get a jump over spring planted garlic. • Dig sweet potatoes and cure for a week or two in a warm location then store for winter. • Harvest peanuts and roast.

• Harvest apples and pears and store for winter use. • Store winter squash and pumpkins in a cool, dry place. • Till garden soil to help control insects and disease. • Make notes of successes and failures. • Test soil and make improvements.

HOUSEPLANTS

• Begin long night treatments for poinsettia re-blooming. • Check plants for insects and treat as needed. • Wash dust from leaves by placing in a shower or wiping with a damp, soft cloth. • Reduce or stop fertilization over the winter months. • Keep plants away from hot and cold drafts of winter.

MISCELLANEOUS

• Drain and store garden hoses and sprinklers for winter. • Spruce up the compost pile for winter by adding new materials promoting decomposition. • Clean, sharpen and oil garden tools for winter storage.

MY GARDEN (Use this space to list additional tasks to accomplish in your garden.)

• • • •

Johnson County K-State Research and Extension recommends environmentally-friendly gardening practices. This starts by identifying and monitoring problems. Cultural practices and controls are the best approach for a healthy garden. If needed, use physical, biological or chemical controls. Always consider the least toxic approach first. Dennis Patton is the horticulture agent for Johnson County K-State Research and Extension. For free information fact sheets, visit www.johnson.ksu.edu, or call the Extension office at 913-715-7000. 22

October 2020 | kcgmag.com


Garden Events

Hotlines for Gardeners Extension Master Gardeners are ready to answer your gardening questions.

CASS COUNTY

816-380-8494; Wed, 9am-noon

16TH Annual Kaw Valley Farm Tour Spend a day on the farm or farms! October 3rd and 4th we invite you to visit 30 locations open to you across the Kaw River Valley. Family farms, Wineries and Vineyards, A-Z Alpacas to Zucchini! And everything in between. This is a self-guided tour. You plan the itinerary. An opportunity to see how your food and fiber is produced first hand. Sample products, compare varieties, ask questions and participate in special activities or just sit and enjoy the peace in the country. Fun for all ages! More info www. kawvalleyfarmtour.org. This year we are paying special attention to COVID-19 guidelines and ask that you do also. Advanced Beekeeping - Pests and Diseases Wed, Oct 7, 6:30-8:30p; at Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Explore the greatest challenges in today’s beekeeping world. You will do an in-depth study and review of beekeeping diseases and pests. Learn how to identify pests and diseases in the early stages and the best practices for treatment alternatives. In addition, review new regulations and laws that impact our bees. Fee: $29. To enroll go to https://ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323. Fall Herbs - Healthy Ways to Use and Preserve the Harvest Sat, Oct 10, 9a-noon; at Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Discover ideas about what to do with your abundance of healthy Fall herbs. Discuss harvest techniques and various preserving methods for culinary and medicinal uses. An informative beginner’s class, with hands-on learning and useful recipes for the kitchen. Don’t let all those precious herbs die with the first frost. The goal is to get you comfortable growing and using more of these flavorful, healthy, and nutrientpacked garden gems. Fee: $39. To enroll go to https://ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323. Lee’s Summit Garden Club Tues, Oct 13, 7p; at Winterset Club House, 2505 SW Wintercreek Dr, Lee’s Summit, MO 64081. Topic: Fall Clean Up. Let’s all learn how to clean and put our gardens to rest during the winter months. Visitors are always welcome. Please visit our website www.leessummitgardenclub. org or call 816-803-5334. Everyone is asked to wear a mask. Please stay safe. Work & Learn: Succulent Containers Tues, Oct 13, 1-4 p; at Powell Gardens. $35. This hands-on opportunity will provide you with

basic information about the identification, care, and propagation of various succulents. Join Horticulturalist Eric Perrette in our collections greenhouse to transplant, propagate, and design succulent containers for the Gardens while also creating a small container to take home using cuttings of varied species. powellgardens.org Advanced Beekeeping - Fall and Winter Honeybee Management Wed, Oct 14, 6:30-8:30p; at Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Proper preparation of your hives for winter is the most important activity for a beekeeper. The better you manage your hives for Winter, the better the odds are that your bees will not only survive but will thrive when spring arrives. Review harvesting, processing and storing honey, processing beeswax, securing your hive from pests, verifying your bees have adequate honey stores and the methods of feeding when necessary, treatments for varrora mites, wind breaks, and how and when to check your hive over the winter. Fee: $29. To enroll go to https://ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323. SAGES: Sights, Scents, and Healthy Tastes of the Harvest Thurs, Oct 15, 10:30a–noon; at Powell Gardens. $35 includes box lunch. Members receive 10% off. Join a local chef to learn about the varied ingredients he/she enjoys from Powell Gardens, how they are grown and harvested, and gather ideas and inspiration for preparing them at home. Taste test included. View the demonstration, collect a few recipe ideas and enjoy a prepared lunch in the Gardens. powellgardens.org Maximizing Garden Space and Extending the Season Sat, Nov 7, 10a-noon; at Johnson County Community College, 12345 College Blvd, Overland Park, KS. Want more out of your existing vegetable garden, or are you a beginner planning to start a vegetable garden next year? Attend this course to learn how to increase your harvests using techniques such as succession planting and seasonal planting. This course is all about making the most of the space you have whether it be container gardening, raised bed gardening or a backyard plot. Tips will be provided to help you plan now for your future seed and plant purchases. The goal is for you to walk away with a planting schedule that will help you get the most out of your veggie garden next year. Fee: $29. To enroll go to https://ce.jccc.edu or call 913-469-2323.

More events are posted on our website, KCGMAG.com, click on “Events.” Promote club meetings, classes, and other gardening events for FREE! Send details to: elizabeth@kcgmag.com. Deadline for publishing in the November issue is October 5.

DOUGLAS COUNTY

785-843-7058; mastergardener@douglas-county.com; Mon-Fri, 1-4pm

GREATER KANSAS CITY MISSOURI AREA

816-833-8733 (TREE); Mon-Fri, 9am-noon; mggkc.hotline@gmail.com

JOHNSON COUNTY, KS

913-715-7050; Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm; garden.help@jocogov.org

JOHNSON COUNTY, MO

660-747-3193; Wed, 9am-noon

LEAVENWORTH COUNTY

913-364-5700; Apr thru Sep, Mon 10am-4pm, Thurs 10am-4pm

MIAMI COUNTY

913-294-4306; Thurs, 9am-noon

WYANDOTTE COUNTY

913-299-9300; Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-4pm

QUESTIONS ABOUT ROSES?

Ask a Rosarian; kcrosehelp@gmail.com; www.kansascityrosesociety.org

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