AUTUMN/ WINTER 2012: AN INTERNATIONAL ROUNDUP

By Chloe Saunders

Since 1943 the International Fashion Weeks have been the place where designers can flaunt their creations and set new trends for us to follow all year round. I’ll give you an insight into the Milan and Paris winter-autumn shows of 2012 which generated a lot of experimental and innovative designs, and I think were more noteworthy than their AngloSaxon counterparts!

Milan Fashion week shrugged off the controversy caused by naked “fascist-fashion” protests with outlandish but meticulous designs. Thanks to Moschino, Milan had an edge of boisterousness. A merge of 1980s cowboy with French Georgiana showed a lot of the house’s tongue in cheek humour, as did garish patterns and electric blue which were nice deviances from block colour of black and white. Italy’s most successful designer Giorgio Armani presented us with multi-coloured dotted jackets and sweet shop ‘pic n mix’ styled beaded coats. A visual feast for the eyes.

“Immodest, grandiose, wonderful”: Helen Mirren’s conclusion epitomised Dolce and Gabbana’s 2012 display. Their beautiful baroque inspired corsets and sheer dresses were dripping in ornate detail and teamed with daintily laced boots and embroidered stockings. One word: exquisite. But saving the best till last was Roberto Cavalli, whose collection oozed understated sexiness. His frill tiered maxi dresses and long black leather gloves emulated Bond girl seduction and his sequinned embellished dresses were as visually stunning as Naomi Campbell, who closed the show. We can certainly say that Milan Fashion Week autumn-winter 2012 was anything but dull; whilst maintaining elegance and immaculate attention to detail, the designers’ quirky designs and loud accessories demonstrated the wicked Italian sense of humour and also that fashion doesn’t have to be taken seriously.

At the time of writing, only the See by Chloe collection had been unveiled at Paris Fashion Week 2012. However, this was probably one of the most anticipated displays as it was the first Fashion Week digital show. This means no celebrity front row, no photographers and no press! So what did they give us? It was a battle of black and white. Models boasted crisp white trouser/jacket combos that radiated Parisian sophistication. But the collection turned audacious with black plunging neckline dresses as well as VERY short miniskirts that proved that French style still retains its cheekiness. Geometric patterns of triangles and squares pervaded cardigans and tops and gave a whole new meaning to “granny chic”. A fabulous start to Paris Fashion Week, but what can we expect from the following few days? It will be interesting to see Yves Saint Laurent and the last collection given by their chief designer Stefano Pilati, who has decided to leave after stepping into Tom Ford’s shoes in 2007. Christian Dior will be under a lot of pressure to do well after their disappointing Spring/Summer 2012 collection which lacked the fantastical and innovative designs of John Galliano. However will Raf Simons, newly replaced at Jil Sander, win the comeback of the decade and revive Dior?