Travelling West

ROADS TO THE ISLES

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Arisaig

THE ROAD TO … MALLAIG

The original ‘Road to the Isles’, the drive to Mallaig never fails to inspire, taking you through dramatic glens and past lochs with Scots Pine-covered islets before views of Skye, Rum and Eigg accompany the final few miles. In Fort William stop at Crannog on the pier for a slap-up seafood lunch with views across Loch Linnhe, or try Garrison West for excellent pub food and live music. On the way out of town, The Highland Soap Company offers factory tours, a lovely café and an excuse to explore the 13th century ruins of Old Inverlochy Castle. Continuing west it’s hard not to stop at Glenfinnan, whether seeking a glimpse of the ‘Harry Potter’ steam train on the sweeping viaduct or exploring Jacobite history at the Glenfinnan Monument. It’s a busy spot so if none of the car parks have space then save it for the return trip (however tempting, never park on the verges). Train enthusiasts will love Glenfinnan Station Museum. Continuing on, harbour village Arisaig is a short detour from the main road and with time to spare you can take the scenic ‘old road’ which hugs the coast from Arisaig to Mallaig, and stop at any of the pristine beaches.

Kilchurn Castle

THE ROAD TO ... OBAN

Heading from the central belt, Tyndrum offers the chance for a quick pit-stop before heading towards Oban on the A85. The Real Food Café is a reliable option for a coffee and the fish and chips is always good. Look out for atmospheric Kilchurn Castle by Loch Awe, which you can visit on foot if you’ve got wellies. Also on the shores of Loch Awe, the Cruachan Visitor Centre is the portal to the ‘Hollow Mountain’, where you can travel along a kilometre of tunnels to view the turbine hall of the hydro-electric plant built inside Ben Cruachan. Connel, five miles before Oban, is a picturesque village for a wander by the water where you may spot The Falls of Lora, a tidal rapid where the Firth of Lorn meets Loch Etive. Visit The Oyster Inn for a selection of fresh seafood dishes, or try the Glue Pot Bar for more casual pub meals. As a final stop before Oban, visit Dunstaffnage Castle and climb the battlements of this ancient ruin and former stronghold of the MacDougall clan, built before 1240 and captured by Robert the Bruce in 1308. Dunstaffnage Chapel in the grounds dates from the 13th century.

ROADS TO THE ISLES Trips to the islands don’t generally begin at your port of departure. Instead of racing for the ferry, Ailsa Sheldon suggests some ways you can make a day of your journey to the west coast

Remember to check ahead for all opening times and access arrangements

Torridon

THE ROAD TO ... ULLAPOOL

From central Scotland Ullapool is quite the trek, but the mountains and big skies make it all worthwhile. Stop at RSPB site Tollie Red Kites to watch these elegant birds of prey through outdoor viewing screens. There are also expansive views across Easter Ross to Ben Wyvis, plus nature trails and a picnic area. The site is signposted between Maryburgh and Contin on the A835. Cafés are few and far between Inverness and Ullapool – you can try the Museum Café in the old railway station in Strathpeffer, or pack a picnic. The road splits at Garve: stay right for the more direct route to Ullapool; hang left for a long but spectacular detour via Achnasheen that takes you past the towering Torridon mountains, lovely Loch Maree and Gairloch with its sandy strands. Just beyond Poolewe, Inverewe Gardens are impressive botanical gardens created in the 19th century. Whichever route you take, the spectacular Falls of Meseach and Corrieshalloch Gorge are just off the main road near the junction of the A832 and A835. The gorge can be viewed from a suspension bridge and there are various pretty woodland walks.

Loch Fyne

THE ROAD TO ... TARBERT, CLAONAIG AND KENNACRAIG

The main road along the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond may have you bursting out in song, but celebrate your ascent of the Rest and Be Thankful pass beyond Arrochar with a stop at Loch Fyne Oysters, where you can enjoy fresh seafood including oysters from the loch. Alternatively, pick up a gourmet picnic from the deli and enjoy it in the pleasant courtyard of the nearby Fyne Ales brewery, which also offers tours. There are easy walking options in the area to stretch your legs, either up the glen behind the brewery or at nearby Ardkinglas Woodland Garden, with its Gruffalo Trail. Travelling on to Inveraray, a visit to the Duke of Argyll’s Inveraray Castle is worthwhile if you have time to properly explore. The gardens are beautiful and there are marked walks including the steep Dun Na Cuaiche Woodland Walk which will give you expansive views of the local area. Alternatively, get the family behind bars at Inveraray Jail. Further along the road, Auchindrain Township is a fascinating living musuem offering a glimpse of long-vanished rural ways of life, while at Ardrishaig you can stop off to watch boats making their way through the locks of the Crinan Canal.