TRAVELLING WEST
ROADS TO THE NEILLWPHOTO
Arisaig
Kilchurn Castle
THE ROAD TO … MALLAIG
THE ROAD TO ... OBAN
The original ‘Road to the Isles’, the drive to Mallaig never fails to inspire, taking you through dramatic glens and past lochs with Scots Pine-covered islets before views of Skye, Rum and Eigg accompany the final few miles. In Fort William stop at Crannog on the pier for a slap-up seafood lunch with views across Loch Linnhe, or try Garrison West for excellent pub food and live music. On the way out of town, The Highland Soap Company offers factory tours, a lovely café and an excuse to explore the 13th century ruins of Old Inverlochy Castle. Continuing west it’s hard not to stop at Glenfinnan, whether seeking a glimpse of the ‘Harry Potter’ steam train on the sweeping viaduct or exploring Jacobite history at the Glenfinnan Monument. It’s a busy spot so if none of the car parks have space then save it for the return trip (however tempting, never park on the verges). Train enthusiasts will love Glenfinnan Station Museum. Continuing on, harbour village Arisaig is a short detour from the main road and with time to spare you can take the scenic ‘old road’ which hugs the coast from Arisaig to Mallaig, and stop at any of the pristine beaches.
Heading from the central belt, Tyndrum offers the chance for a quick pit-stop before heading towards Oban on the A85. The Real Food Café is a reliable option for a coffee and the fish and chips is always good. Look out for atmospheric Kilchurn Castle by Loch Awe, which you can visit on foot if you’ve got wellies. Also on the shores of Loch Awe, the Cruachan Visitor Centre is the portal to the ‘Hollow Mountain’, where you can travel along a kilometre of tunnels to view the turbine hall of the hydro-electric plant built inside Ben Cruachan. Connel, five miles before Oban, is a picturesque village for a wander by the water where you may spot The Falls of Lora, a tidal rapid where the Firth of Lorn meets Loch Etive. Visit The Oyster Inn for a selection of fresh seafood dishes, or try the Glue Pot Bar for more casual pub meals. As a final stop before Oban, visit Dunstaffnage Castle and climb the battlements of this ancient ruin and former stronghold of the MacDougall clan, built before 1240 and captured by Robert the Bruce in 1308. Dunstaffnage Chapel in the grounds dates from the 13th century.
42 The Guide to Scotland’s Islands
