RESTAURANTS

Ada

9a Antigua Street, adarestaurant.co.uk

Ada serves a selection of cold mezze and Turkish grill favourites in a classy, laid-back neighbourhood joint at the top of the Walk. Whole fish is perfectly seared and lamb melts in the mouth, plus they have kunefe on the dessert menu; the most deliciously indulgent mix of honey and cheese.

MY PICKS

Paul Mclean

At some point in August, the urge to flee screaming from the heaving festival mob becomes overwhelming. Fear not: simply heading north of George Street leads to relatively peaceful sustenance. Good Brothers Wine Cellars’ new corner home in Northumberland Street has a tip-top selection of interesting drops, and I’m a fan of the traditional boozer action (but with decent wine and beer) at Clark’s Bar, a couple of blocks further down Dundas Street.

If the west wind takes me, The Voyage Of Buck in William Street is hard to beat for good food and cocktails. In Stockbridge, I’ll either unsuccessfully feign coolness at newbie Skua (beautiful small plates, cocktails, late opening) or accept time’s ravages in the eccentric and kitsch St Bernard’s Bar (all of the above love dogs, btw). And now with trams to Leith and Newhaven, Alby’s killer sandwiches are within easier reach or stay to the end of the line for sunsets over the Forth and quality seafood at The Fishmarket.

Bodega

14–15 Albert Place, ilovebodega.com

With its pale pink and tropical green décor, this Mexican restaurant is certainly photogenic. Tasty twists on soft tacos dominate: think buffalo sesame chicken with a dollop of blue cheese sauce, or tempura tiger prawns with sweet chilli and soy dressing. The house cocktails deserve their own Insta page too.

Dishoom

3a St Andrew Square, dishoom.com/edinburgh

Yes, the breakfasts at Dishoom are worth the fuss, but so is dinner. Biriyani speckled with dried cranberries and topped with juicy chicken is moreish and the pau bhaji transport you to hot evenings in Mumbai. There’s plenty of room inside and it’s a lovely spot for an end-of-evening cocktail infused with Indian spices.

Down The Hatch

13 Antigua Street, downthehatchdiner.com

There’s little chance of leaving hungry with the generous portion sizes at this Canadian diner. The dining room is tucked through the back in a funky, church-like space where huge bowls of poutine dripping with gravy and cheese curds are served alongside towering burgers and chicken wings. This is not impress-your-date territory: it’s going to get messy.

Ka Pao

St James Quarter, ka-pao.com

The original Glasgow branch of Ka Pao is steeped in Michelin accolades and awards, and their second outpost at St James Quarter doesn’t disappoint. All the small plates have a South East Asian twist. Fried chicken and crisp pork belly are solid contenders for best dish, but hispi cabbage with cashew nut butter is a surprise candidate.

Kahani

10 Antigua Street, kahanirestaurant.co.uk

This lively and colourful Indian restaurant has plenty of space for a gang, plus corkage-free BYOB to keep everyone happy. There’s a range of slightly more unusual street-food style dishes, but it’s hard to see beyond their thali lunch, which will keep you going through a full day of Fringe-ing.

L’Escargot Bleu

56 Broughton Street, lescargotbleu.co.uk

Elements of L’Escargot Bleu’s precision French menu may change with the seasons, but one thing is always guaranteed: the finest steak tartare in Edinburgh. Old theatre posters adorn the walls and the candlelit interior feels like you’re in a Lyon bouchon. Quite simply, one of Edinburgh’s most reliably solid restaurants.

Lucky Yu

53–55 Broughton Street, luckyyu.co.uk

Handmade gyoza and fusion bao buns are the focus at this laidback joint on Broughton Street. The interior is stripped back and airy, letting the flavour-packed food speak for itself. And speak it does: bao with sticky five-spice brisket is almost too good to share and Korean chicken wings are addictively sweet and spicy.

Mowgli Street Food

22 Hanover Street, mowglistreetfood.com

Nisha Katona’s Indian street food has landed in Edinburgh, where a fairy light-strewn former bank makes a fitting setting for her bright plates and bold spicing. Mix, match and share or take a chance on a chef-selected tiffin box; you can’t go wrong either way, although skipping the treacle tamarind fries will lead to buyers’ remorse.

New Chapter

18 Eyre Place, newchapterrestaurant.co.uk

The seasonal menu at New Chapter is all about Scottish produce, carefully crafted into fine-dining dishes. Specials featuring topdrawer ingredients like venison and perfectly seared scallops are usually offered. The wine list is considered, but perhaps try the Old Fashioned cocktail, served with smoky flair. Excellent private dining options for larger groups.

Tipo

110 Hanover Street, tipoedinburgh.co.uk

Up a set of stairs on Hanover Street, a window table at Tipo is a great chance to people-watch over a glass of crisp soave. Chef Stuart Ralston’s newest venture combines the smartcasual feel of a wine bar with Italian cooking. Follow the small plate trend or buck it completely with a filling bowl of strozzapreti and sausage ragù.

Cafes And Casual Bites

Artisan Roast

57 Broughton Street, artisanroast.co.uk

An Edinburgh institution, it’s testament to Artisan Roast’s exceptional quality that you’ll find their beans in cafés and restaurants across the capital. Branches have cropped up in Leith Walk, St James Quarter, Bruntsfield and Stockbridge, selling aromatic blends from all corners of the globe, but the wood-clad original is right here on Broughton Street.

Edinburgh Street Food Omni Centre, Leith Street, edinburgh-street-food.com

Got a group with dietary requirements? No problem.

Edinburgh Street Food caters to all: Antojitos’ Mexican fare for vegans, multi award-winning Junk for the traditional Scottish fast-food palate, or The Peruvian for a bit of spice. App ordering at the long, shared tables inside (or with a Calton Hill view outside) keeps it convivial. Great fun.

Gulp Ramen

9 Albert Place, gulpramen.com

Steaming bowls of handmade noodles are served beneath vibrant murals at this wee Leith Walk joint. Portions are hearty but there’s a delicacy too; the French fine-dining flair of the shoyu ramen means it’s somewhere between a broth and a bisque, while there’s a South East Asian kick to the laksa-style veggie ramen.

Lowdown Coffee

40 George Street, lowdown.coffee

If you’re serious about coffee, it’s worth the pilgrimage to this basement spot on George Street. The staff know when a long pour might enhance flavour, and what blend goes best with oat milk. There’s also a mouthwatering array of cakes, with soup, sourdough and pomegranatespeckled avocado toast offering something a little more substantial.

One20 Wine Café

120 Dundas Street, one-20.co.uk

From breakfast coffee to a final glass of wine, this is one of the few places on Dundas Street where you can sit outside. The selection of Slovenian, Sicilian and Loire Valley whites are perfect on sunny days, while small plates have Italian flair with gooey burrata, charcuterie boards and lunchtime pasta dishes.

Singapore Coffee House

5 Canonmills, singaporecoffeehouse.co.uk

Discover the incredible diversity of Singaporean cuisine at this snug new café, inspired by the chef’s childhood visits to traditional kopitiam (coffee shops). The roti canai is a must; a delicious buttery flaky flatbread with a rich curried sauce and pickled vegetables and peanuts. Pair it with a sweet cup of traditional kopi with condensed milk.

Urban Angel

121 Hanover Street, urban-angel.co.uk

Seasonal, local, brunchy-lunchy, coffee: it sounds so simple but this atmospheric basement café always adds up to so much more than the sum of its parts. It’s positively cavernous inside; don’t be put off by a queue, although competition for the outdoor tables is fierce. Get the chorizo skillet. Always.

Bars

The Basement

10a–12a Broughton Street, basement-bar-edinburgh.co.uk

Margaritas so deliciously sour they make your face pucker plus plates of fusion soft tacos make this subterranean bar super-popular. At times, it’s almost impossible to walk in and bag a table. But, as you’re licking homemade guacamole off your fingers and ordering another tipple from the huge tequila selection, you’ll know making that reservation was worth it.

The Bon Vivant

55–57 Thistle Street, bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk

A dark, candlelit interior inspires murmured conversation and slowly sipped gin and tonics. Delicate bar bites showcase some distinctly Scottish flavours (and are all around a fiver for those that like to share). Mains are the kind of indulgence you want to sit and enjoy, plus there’s a mean Sunday roast with all the trimmings.

The Keller

23–27 Broughton Street Lane, kellertaproom.com

One of the prettiest spots for a pint in the area, The Keller lures you down a dark alleyway with promises of delicious, micro-brewed hefeweizens and rich porters. Inside, you’ll find German beerhall-style long tables in the centre, a verdant greenhouse garden, cosy window nooks with a mini-library and swinging chairs suspended from the ceiling.

Pickles

60 Broughton Street, getpickled.co.uk

Once a basement hideaway that topped Tripadvisor lists, Pickles has grown into its larger rooms at street level without losing any of the romance. Dimly lit and atmospheric, charcuterie boards are piled high with locally sourced cured meats, cheeses and (of course) homemade pickles to accompany a vast wine list.

PLANT-BASED

Edinburgh is great for veggies and vegans; it’s rare to find yourself at the wrong end of a mushroom risotto almost anywhere these days, but here’s our pick of the best places that are either 100% vegan, or almost there

CURRAN GEAL

20 Leven Street, instagram.com/curran.geal

A tiny café and deli, with sandwiches, soup, coffee and cake to eat in or takeaway, plus a handy range of groceries. Vegetarian options.

DAVID BANN

56–58 St Mary’s Street, davidbann.co.uk

This Edinburgh institution is still one of the few veggie places that feels a bit special, where you’d happily snuggle in for the evening. Vegetarian options.

FOODSTORY

127 Easter Road, foodstorycafe.co.uk

Funky wee café with strong environmental creds (bring your own container if you want a takeout) in the middle of on-the-up Easter Road. Vegetarian options.

HENDERSONS

7–13 Barclay Place, hendersonsrestaurant.com

After becoming one of the city’s higher-profile lockdown casualties, veggie pioneers Hendersons are back with this bright and stylish bistro space. Vegetarian options.

HOLY COW

34 Elder Street, holycow.cafe

Handily placed for the bus station and with later opening hours than many cafés, Holy Cow specialise in vegan burgers and sandwiches. They also run the café at Edinburgh Printmakers.

NOVAPIZZA VEGAN ITALIAN KITCHEN

42 Howe Street, novapizza.co.uk

A pocket-sized Italian straddling the border of the New Town and Stockbridge. You’ll find pasta and a huge range of pizzas; they do gluten-free too.

PLANT BAE

220 Easter Road, heyplantbae.co.uk

Cute-as-a-button candy-coloured café with a range of waffles, pancakes, brunch dishes and bowls, plus their legendary brownies and bakes.

SEEDS FOR THE SOUL

167 Bruntsfield Place, seedsforthesoul.co.uk

From all-day breakfast through to dinner, this pleasingly rustic café-restaurant does a roaring trade serving the good people of Bruntsfield with seasonal, plantbased food.

SORA LELLA

13a Brougham Street, soralella.co.uk

This family-run restaurant proves it’s possible to reimagine classic Roman cooking without any animal products whatsoever. Pure Italian comfort food.