usher hall

If Edinburgh can be said to have a theatreland, it’s based around the Usher Hall, with the Lyceum Theatre and Traverse Theatre forming a solid block of city culture. The Usher Hall’s near-perfect acoustics mean it’s a hub for orchestral performances for Edinburgh International Festival, while both the Trav and Lyceum will offer new writing and thought-provoking theatre for the Fringe, as well as their own International Festival highlights. Just over the road you’ll find Edinburgh International Conference Centre, going large on musicals.

So there’s plenty to tempt you to this corner of the world, but what about the grub? If you want a quick pitstop then Lothian Road is home to the familiar chains, with Wagamama, Topolabamba and German Doner Kebab all reliable, if predictable, choices for a quick feed. If what you’re longing for is peaceful air-conditioned splendour then the Sheraton Hotel and Waldorf Astoria are also close at hand. Both have airy spaces where it might be possible to forget you’re sharing the streets with a few million other people; The Waldorf Astoria (known to locals as The Caley) is also home to Mark Greenaway’s excellent eponymous restaurant. From there, cross the road to Queensferry Street and you’ll happen across Dulse, Dean Banks’ gorgeous seafood restaurant and bar.

Heading up Lothian Road will bring you to Hey Palu on Bread Street, a compact Italian bar with rather excellent Negronis and aperitivo. If that’s whetted your appetite, keep going; you’re nearly in Tollcross, a busy, traffic-noisy city corner with some excellent, and cheap, food options. Dumplings Of China and Street Of Beijing (beloved of the city’s Asian community) will both see you right, while Bennets Bar and Home are both great options for a pint.