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8 minute read
RESTAURANTS
Café Andamiro
113 Buccleuch Street, cafe-andamiro.co.uk
This casual spot combines Korean and Japanese dining. There’s sushi on the menu, but it’s the hot, latenight dining dishes that this place does best: think simmering hot pots, okonomiyaki sprinkled with bonito flakes and sizzling bulgogi served on a griddle plate. Their sweet treats are a delight too.
Junk
58 South Clerk Street, wearejunk.co.uk
After winning a clutch of street food accolades, Junk has expanded
My Picks
Suzy Pope
THE LIST EAT & DRINK TEAM into this wine bar-like permanent spot. Pun-tastic dishes and artfully presented small plates populate the evening service, with a democratically priced fixed menu. The service is charming, the cocktails are banging and this is definitely not your average junk.
Mooching about between shows, often three pints of cider to the wind, I’m always looking for something fast, filling and full of flavour. Nothing beats a bowl of ramen for all three. If I’m down Leith way it’ll be Gulp Ramen for their handmade noodles and rich broth. If I’m up by the uni, Ikigai Ramen on West Crosscauseway has the hole-in-the-wall, latenight-Tokyo feel I love. I’ve also recently discovered Satoru, where soupy bowls of udon noodles are topped with their speciality light and crispy tempura.
For a pint between shows, I’ve been going to The Dagda Bar since I was a student. It’s properly cosy, unpretentious and has a big selection of single malts. If it’s a celebration or I want to be a bit fancy, I’ll always suggest BABA on George Street. The grilled whole seabass is a crowd-pleaser and I find myself thinking of their pomegranate-speckled labneh when I’m alone and hungry.
Kampong Ah Lee
28 Clerk Street, kampongahlee.co.uk
Kampong Ah Lee is always a busy little place where you can grab flavour-packed Malaysian food. The chicken satay is drowning in sauce and spicy bowls of laksa warm the back of the throat. You can order a cooling bottle of Tiger beer or BYOB. Fun, fast and casual.
Kim’s Mini Meals
5 Buccleuch Street, instagram.com/kimsminimeals
No bookings and no takeaway here; just show up, queue up and eat up some of the best bibimbap in town, served in sizzling stone bowls and topped with a raw egg, as it should be. This family-style joint makes you feel like you’re eating in someone’s front room and that’s very much part of the charm.
On Bap
57 Clerk Street
Bibimbap topped with a gooey fried egg, bubbling Korean curries and crisp dumplings are fast and filling at On Bap. It won’t win any awards for décor, but it’s ideal if you’re in a hurry. The meat is halal and there are plenty of vegan and veggie options.
Pomelo
21c Strathearn Road, instagram.com/cafe_pomelo
A tiny restaurant that’s big on flavour and well worth the table squeeze. Order as much of the menu as you can but don’t miss the handripped noodles: chewy, spicy and singing with Sichuan peppercorns, topped with either roast vegetables or braised pork. Pair with zingy cucumber salad and a mocktail (or BYOB).
Satoru
45 St Patrick Square, instagram.com/satoru.edinburgh
This is Japanese cuisine as it should be: a select menu specialising in one delicacy. In Satoru’s case, it’s tempura. Topping umami-rich bowls of udon and accompanying saucy rice bowls, light and crisp battered prawns and vegetables are the star of the show. The décor is simple yet effective, just like each perfectly presented dish.
Cafes And Casual Bites
Alby’s Southside
94 Buccleuch Street, albysleith.co.uk Big. Hot. Sandwiches. Huge wedges of fluffy focaccia with hot fillings like fried chicken caesar or halloumi with baba ghanoush make up the
Kids
Children are welcome in practically all restaurants in Edinburgh, but do check with individual bars before bringing the ankle-biters along. Here’s our pick of the places that do a lot more than tolerate the smallies
BERTIE’S RESTAURANT & BAR
9 Victoria Street, bertiesfishandchips.com
There’s a proud history of fish and chips here, but your kids won’t care. Instead, they’ll be tearing into a huge mound of proper chippy chips. And that’s OK.
CORO THE CHOCOLATE CAFÉ
13 Frederick Street, corochocolate.co.uk
Maybe one for when you’re entertaining someone else’s kids, Coro is a shrine to everything chocolatey from thick shakes to waffles to ice-cream to hot choccy.
DI GIORGIO CAFFÉ & BAR
1 Brandon Terrace, digiorgio.homesteadcloud.com
Handily placed between a park, the Botanics and the Water Of Leith, this friendly family-run café makes for a perfect refuelling stop.
FRANCO MANCA
1 Deanhaugh Street, francomanca.co.uk
This popular pizza chain hasn’t lost sight of its sourdough creds. There’s plenty of seating and it’s a great stop-off for teens plundering the excellent nearby charity shops.
THE GARDEN BISTRO
Saughton Rose Gardens, 60b Ford’s Road, thegardenbistro.co.uk
This peaceful café-bistro is a short bus ride from the centre of town. It’s next to a huge park with one of Scotland’s largest skateparks.
LUCA’S
16 Morningside Road, lucasicecream.co.uk
Yes, the ice-cream is famous but this cheery café also does a full Italian-slanted menu with plenty of crowd-pleasers and mini pastas and pizzas.
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MCLARENS ON THE CORNER
8 Morningside Road, mclarensonthecorner.co.uk
There are lots of different seating areas in this crowd-pleasing venue but your kids will only want to sit in the ski gondolas: plan ahead.
THE SCRAN & SCALLIE
1 Comely Bank Road, scranandscallie.com
Tom Kitchin’s gastropub works hard to welcome younger diners; there’s a simple kids’ menu and they’ll adapt main menu items too.
THE STORYTELLING CAFÉ
Scottish Storytelling Centre, 43 – 45 High Street, scottishstorytellingcentre.com precision menu at this small spot on Buccleuch Street (you’ll find the original in Leith). Dine in at the scattering of seats or take out and enjoy on The Meadows next door. Be warned: portions are massive.
As the name suggests, this is a tranquil, roomy stop-off on the busy Royal Mile, where you might also happen across a child-friendly performance or two.
August 21
89 Causewayside, instagram.com/august_21cafe
With a steady roster of events, dos and super-friendly staff, August 21 feels like a community café. The counter is laden with home-baked cakes, filled bagels and sandwiches to accompany coffees in cute teacups. The botanicadappled window seats are the best spots in the house.
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Considerit
3–5a Sciennes, consideritchocolate.com
Offering a range of delicious vegan doughnuts, ice-cream and chocolate, Considerit is the perfect place for a plant-based pick-me-up. Topped with pretzels, fresh strawberries and gooey with rich fillings, the doughnuts are the highlight, but frothy coffees and indulgent frappuccino without the dairy are also worth a look in.
Cult Coffee
104 Buccleuch Street, cultcoffeeroasters.com
If the exposed brickwork and industrial-chic vibes don’t hint at this coffee shop’s hipster status, the coffee paraphernalia for sale might offer another clue. It’s a wee warren of rooms inside, with laptop-friendly bars tucked away downstairs and the smell of freshly baked banana bread drifting from the kitchen.
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Kate’s
116 Causewayside, instagram.com/kates_edinburgh
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Kate’s is one of those places you’d rather stayed off the radar. Nearly everything at this bakery-café is homemade, from the elderflower cordial used to soak sponges to the rhubarb jam that accompanies the scones. Cakes and bakes are seasonal, making the most of Scotland’s natural larder.
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Lady And The Bear
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1 Hope Park Terrace, ladyandthebear.co.uk
When the sun shines, it’s possible that this Meadows-adjacent café is the brightest spot in the city. The selection of hot chocolates is positively sinful and the signature dirty chai latte is like a hot milkshake, but with caffeine. An array of Greek-style baking and lunch options are also available.
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Victor Hugo Deli
26–27 Melville Terrace, victorhugodeli.com
It’s been here on The Meadows since 1969 (though there are now two newer locations in George Street and The Shore) and it’s retained its charm. Gleaming cabinets display sandwiches, cakes and pastries, with coffee roasted in-house. Sit in the sun and order the house special: pastrami on rye with sweet gherkins and emmental cheese.
Bars
The Dagda Bar
93–95 Buccleuch Street
Real ales that need a bit of muscle to pour and a shimmering collection of single malts mean this stalwart on Buccleuch Street still feels like a proper pub. Dark-wood features and big Dickensian-vibe windows set the tone. It’s a spot for an atmospheric pre-show drink (they don’t do food).
✤ Theatre and cinema workshops (coming soon)
The Dog House
18–24 Clerk Street, instagram.com/ thedoghouseedinburgh
A friendly, quirky and lively bar that’s much frequented by Edinburgh’s students. There’s always an interesting food pop-up on the go here; right now it’s vegan-Mexican faves Antojitos.
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The bric-a-brac décor makes it one of the funkiest spots for a pre-show pint in the area and there are lots of events too.
The Royal Dick 1 Summerhall, summerhall.co.uk Summerhall is a mighty Fringe venue, but don’t forget the charms of The Royal Dick, its very own courtyard bar. Completely trafficfree and with ample seating, naturally Pickering’s Gin and Barney’s Beer (both produced onsite) feature heavily on the drinks list. The menu is straightforward and there are usually a few extra vans and pop-ups around in August.
The Urban Fox
19–21 Causewayside, the-urban-fox.com
If you’re dining at The Urban Fox, you’ll not leave hungry, whether that’s a towering burger at tea time or a stacked brunch to start the day. The vibe is laid-back neighbourhood pub with loads of craft beers to choose from. If you're lucky, you might just bag a seat outside to sip a cocktail or two amid the greenery.
Southpour
1–5 Newington Road, southpour.co.uk
Big brunches, big burgers and big windows draw folk to Southpour at this southern end of town. Evening meals are a little fancier than pub grub, with sea bass and pork belly on the menu. The fairy-lit interior makes this a delightful spot for a cocktail or craft beer.
Zero/Zero
18 South Clerk Street, zerozerowines.co.uk
Tunes via the record player and lights turned down low give this petit spot on South Clerk Street an intimate feel. The wine list is all natural, with a big selection of orange wine. Charcuterie boards of oozing brie and cured meats come courtesy of local heroes IJ Mellis and East Coast Cured.
For many Fringe-goers, the area around Gilded Balloon Teviot (or Teviot Row House) is the heart of the August experience. Home to Edinburgh University Students’ Association, it’s a rabbit warren of venues large and small with indoor bars and outdoor gardens aplenty. Underbelly, Pleasance and Assembly also take a slice of the various uni buildings clustered around this area. The International Book Festival’s new(ish) home is five minutes away at Edinburgh College Of Art; its courtyard makes a lovely spot for some downtime while you wait for your favourite author to appear.
Much of this area is pedestrianised, so in August the walk between Bristo Square and George Square is lined with street-food vendors and pop-up bars making it easy to grab, eat and head to your next show. But you’re also in the heart of the city; options abound. Heading out to Potterrow will bring you to the often-packed San Chuan, or go around the corner to Beirut for reliable Lebanese fare. If you’re serious about coffee, Union Brew Lab on South College Street is going to be home; their meticulous brews will put the ginger in your spice. And if you’re grabbing and going, soup café Union Of Genius is perfect for getting some nutrition in.
A five-minute walk brings you to atmospheric Victoria Street where you’ll find a clutch of stalwarts, including The Grain Store, Howies and Maison Bleue. If you’re simply after a pint and some standard pub grub, the broad pavements of Grassmarket are filled with tables spilling out of the bars that line the street. French restaurant Petit Paris is a standout though, particularly at lunch where their fixed price menu is bargainous, tasty and très Française. Finally, Mary’s Milk Bar is worthy of both the hype and the time you’ll spend standing in line for their always innovative, always smooth ice-cream.