RESTAURANTS

Civerinos Slice

49 Forrest Road, civerinosslice.com

Inspired by New York’s slice joints, Civs usually has around 15 different pizzas on the pass, most available by the slice or pie. Don’t make the mistake of thinking you’ll be short-changed by a slice though; the portions are as generous as the staff are good-natured. The original Civerinos is in nearby Hunter Square and an equally good call.

El Cartel Mexicana

15–16 Teviot Place, elcartelmexicana.co.uk

A regularly changing menu of around

MY PICKS

Jo Laidlaw

THE LIST EAT & DRINK TEAM

If I’m out and about early near Summerhall, Millers Sandwich half a dozen bright and breezy tacos, half a dozen antojitos, frozen margs on the chiller, ear-bleeding hip hop and perhaps the best guac in town has helped El Cartel steal a place in Edinburgh’s heart. A second, bigger, branch in Roxburgh Court has a kids’ menu, handy for spice-avoiding ankle-biters.

Bar is my first stop for a huge breakfast roll and the best tattie scone in town. I commute by train, so if I want an evening away from the crazy it’s dinner at The Palmerston followed by a pint at The Mad Hatter before heading home from Haymarket. In town, The Keller is the place I avoid writing about in case I can’t get a Saturday night table anymore, but it’s pretty much my perfect bar; fairy lights, great crowd, lovely staff and they brew their own beer.

But my August is usually defined by hopping about the Old Town: street food and cider in plastic glasses from a venue’s pop-up, coffee from the brilliant Coffee Saints at the Grassmarket Project, and a proper glass of something proper nice at Hotel du Vin’s courtyard bar when I just need a tiny minute to breathe.

Eve Virgin Hotels, 1 India Buildings, Victoria Street, virginhotels.com

A show-stopping space for food, drinks and dancing within the shiny new Virgin hotel, Eve is working hard to find its place with an upfor-it crowd who are just as likely to be shaking their tailfeathers to a weekend DJ set as they are to settle in for good value lunches, small plates or weekend brunches.

Koyama

20 Forrest Road

In a city where Japanese food often means communal benches, manga murals and focusing on one type of dish, there’s something refreshingly peaceful about Koyama’s gold walls, red banquettes and menu covering a lot of the bases. The sushi is meltingly soft, the tempura pleasingly crispy: it all adds up to a pleasant, relaxing meal.

The Outsider

15–16 George IV Bridge, theoutsiderrestaurant.com

It’s not easy being an Edinburgh institution; The Outsider manages it with aplomb thanks to its cracking lunch deal, contemporary space, witty wine list and a menu that feels modern, without mistaking trends for flavour. When a flat iron steak and glass of wine is what you need, this is where you want to be.

Paolozzi Restaurant & Bar

59–61 Forrest Road, paolozzirestaurantandbar.co.uk

This partnership between Edinburgh Beer Factory and Gino Stornaiuolo (formerly of Nonna’s Kitchen) has got it all going on. Deceptively huge inside, there’s cracking art, small plates, gorgeous pasta and crisp pizza, all (naturally) accompanied by their own brews. The place goes like the clappers and the staff are unfailingly cheery. What’s not to love?

Saboteur

19–20 Teviot Place, saboteurrestaurant.com

Described as South East Asian on the menu (though with a heavy lean towards Vietnam), this studentfocused diner-style venue does a mean line in pho, while their sides and small boxes cover off some of the world’s most popular street-food faves. Always busy, always lively, the tunes bang and the servers are friendly.

Ting Thai Caravan

8–9 Teviot Place, tingthai-caravan.com

You’ll see the crowds before you spot the sign for the original branch of this funky, casual Thai street food restaurant. The queue moves briskly though, and before you know it, you’ll be tucked up against the window enjoying a box or bowl of something delicious. A liberal hand with the spicing means Ting Thai is never dull.

Cafes And Casual Bites

Coffee Saints

The Grassmarket Centre, 86 Candlemaker Row, coffeesaints.co.uk

This vibrant social enterprise café within the equally brilliant Grassmarket Project can’t help but put a smile on your face with its sunshine-yellow branding. Breakfast runs all day, there’s a range of simple sandwiches at lunch and every penny supports some of Edinburgh’s most marginalised communities. Also at Little King Street.

Ikigai Ramen

13 West Crosscauseway, ikigairamen.co.uk

Just like the slurp-and-go ramen holes of Shinjuku, this tucked-away spot is tiny inside. There’s usually a queue and it’s not the kind of place for chatty, lingering meals. As in Tokyo, you grab your bowl of noodles soaked in the richest dashi (broth) you’re likely to taste, slurp up and move on, sated and happy.

The Milkman

7 & 52 Cockburn Street, themilkman.coffee

Handily, there are two Milkman branches on Cockburn Street, one at the top and one at the bottom. Both are atmospheric Old Town beauties with nooks to coorie into while you dispatch your morning coffee and pastry. Some of Scotland’s best speciality roasters are on the grinder, but there’s no pretension from the knowledgeable staff.

Scran Bistro

7–9 North Bridge Arcade, scranbistro.com

Scran seem to have completely taken over the North Bridge Arcade with a warren of individual spaces to enjoy their near-legendary all-day breakfasts as well as hefty portions of burgers, nachos and loaded fries, plus cocktails. Tables spill out into the street and it’s a busy, buzzy place to hang out. Also at George IV Bridge.

Soderberg The Meadows

27 Simpson Loan, Quartermile, soderberg.uk

A familiar name as you meander around Edinburgh, Soderberg’s Swedish-themed cafés and bake shops all do a mean line in rocketfuel coffee and cardamom buns. This bright, glass box with plenty of outdoor seating is always popular; their Pavilion Café is just round the corner at Lister Square if you fancy an evening meal.

Thomas J Walls Coffee

35 Forrest Road

It’s not hard to see why this attractive coffee shop (a former opticians; they kept the name) is a perennial student favourite. Excellent coffee, fresh juice and a simple brunch-focused menu (the sriracha benny is highly recommended) with a few sandwiches rounding things off makes for a high-quality pitstop.

The Wall Coffee And Design House

45 Cockburn Street, thewallcoffee.com

Cockburn Street is great for people watching, and The Wall thoughtfully provides tonnes of greenery inside to hide behind while you’re doing it. Or be blatant and grab a sunny table outside. Either way, this is a pretty place with a broad menu of toasties, salads and bagels and a pictureperfect display of cakes.

Bars

56 North

2 West Crosscauseway, fiftysixnorth.co.uk

There’s an enormous range of gins at this spacious bar with a generous outdoor terrace; they also distil their own. There’s an easy-going food menu, plenty of room for a crowd and a separate enclosed outdoor space called the Secret Garden during the Festival. Brunch (and the associated easy-drinking Mimosa and Spritz) runs all day.

The Bow Bar

80 West Bow, thebowbar.co.uk

Hip joints come and go, but The Bow Bar endures. You’ll find nothing trend-led here; just a well-kept cellar, huge array of whiskies and some Jarvis Pickle pies (if hungry, look out for the ‘nae pies left’ sign before you go in). A gorgeous traditional bar in one of Edinburgh’s bonniest streets.

Cold Town House

4 Grassmarket, coldtownhouse.co.uk

Pub views don’t come better than this. Perched high above Grassmarket (and practically next door to Dance Base), Cold Town House’s roof terrace offers cocktails, their own icy cold beer, hot pizza and loaded fries, with unfettered views of the castle. Incredibly popular when the sun shines, this is one to book ahead.

Paradise Palms

41 Lothian Street, theparadisepalms.com

A lively bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously, Paradise Palms is great fun. Food (by Lucky Pig) is all veggie, with tonnes of vegan options and they do a mean French Martini too (an underrated skill). One of those places where you can pop in for lunch and find yourself still there at last orders (true story).

Sandy Bell’s

25 Forrest Road, sandybells.com

During August when every man and their dog put on a show in their front room, remember bars like Sandy Bell’s who put on live folk music sessions every single day of the year, come rain, shine or tourists. A traditional bar much prized by locals, look out for their unbeatably priced malt of the month.

Under The Stairs

3a Merchant Street, underthestairs.org

It’s easy to miss the entrance to this homely, shabby-chic bar hidden in the shadows of George IV Bridge, but that would be a mistake. Under The Stairs somehow manages to pull off a neighbourhood bar feel in the middle of tourist-central, with good cocktails, a compact but thoughtful wine list, an interesting menu and some of the city’s friendliest staff.

Food And Drink Festivals

EDINBURGH FOOD FESTIVAL

21–30 July

George Square Gardens, edfoodfest.com

George Square gears up for August with this food festival dedicated to all things delicious. You’ll find stalls from Caravan Of Courage, The Falafel Stop, Chick + Pea and Kebbabar, as well as sweet treats from Wholly Waffles and The Funnel Cake Co. Panther M*lk, Bellfield Brewery and Bacchus Sangria Bar will be keeping everyone refreshed, and there’s a producers’ market, with daily events in the Treehouse Kitchen rounding things off.

FOODIES FESTIVAL

4–6 August

Inverleith Park, foodiesfestival.com

There’s a big focus on chefs at Foodies, with a varied line-up featuring local heroes, TV stars and Masterchef finalists. Well-kent local faces include Gary McLean, Dean Banks, Dale Mailley, Rhiain Gordon and Paul Wedgwood, with Great British Bake Off stars promised for The Cake & Bake Theatre. Rounded off with live music, street food vans, bar pop-ups, a drinks theatre and kids’ cookery classes, there’s plenty to keep everyone well-fed and happy.

LUNARPALOOZA

28–30 July

6a Tower Street, moonwakebeer.com

The surge of small-scale breweries in the city has had a very pleasing side effect: more beer festivals. Moonwake’s Lunarpalooza will feature 24 taps pouring beers from the UK and further afield, supported by the Banh Mi Brothers and Guisados who’ll keep everyone fed over the course of a long weekend down by the Water Of Leith. Moonwake’s Taproom has been quietly building a bit of a buzz, so this is a perfect excuse to check it out for yourself.

THE NEIGHBOURGOOD MARKET

Until 23 July

Edinburgh Accies Ground (entry via Portgower Place), instagram. com/theneighbourgoodmarket

This pre-festival warm-up for some of Scotland’s best-loved street food vendors has become a bit of a tradition (not least because it’s usually actually sunny in July). Neighbourgood takes over this Stockbridge rugby ground with giant deckchairs, cool tunes and the occasional quiz night. They also rotate vendors; trucks for their final cycle were still under wraps as we went to press, but expect fierce flavours and familiar favourites.