A Conversation with
Marc Gasol Cuestion Everything
Lionello Marchesi interview
Chefs’ Favorite Memphis BBQ
The Birth of
Cool
View Magazine Online www.MemphisCorkIt.com
Northern Italian
with a modern twist
- Amazing Atmosphere & Hand Selected Wines -
NORTHERN ITALIAN CUISINE
Monday - Saturday 4pm-til 2285 S. Germantown Rd. Germantown, TN 38138 901.753.4017 ElfosRestaurant.com
From the Publisher Photo by Christen Jones Makeup by Andrea Bashaw at AB Aesthetics
Published by Memphis Cork It P.O. Box 31568, Knoxville, TN 37930 865.531.3941 Publisher Allison Jacob Allison@JMI.me Chief Contributor Chris Thorn Assistant Editor Elizabeth Jones
To my fellow wine and spirits lovers, Prepare yourselves for several radical, exciting changes with this issue of Cork IT! The community feedback shared with us has been enlightening. We discovered that our focus on wine has been a little close-minded and that wine is just one element of your dining-out-experience or when entertaining at home. Like many of you, for an evening out with friends, I typically start at the bar with a cocktail and move on to wine with my meal. After dinner, it could be a scotch for some or a cordial, Port, Baileys and coffee or a digestif. Cork IT! so far has highlighted only one aspect of that experience, whereas now, we are taking an all-encompassing approach to your entertaining occasions. We have decided to expand our coverage and include various kinds of spirits, so that we will channel our readers into a wider range of beverage choices and, we hope, new pleasures. Our focus remains the education and knowledge of the consumer, to provide as many legitimate opinions and philosophies as possible to the audience, and to encourage our readers to choose their own paths among a wider range of possibilities. So, come along on our journey as we delve into the world of wine AND spirits. In this issue, some restaurants paired a signature dish with a spirit or beer or both. Contrary to what many diners assume has to be a specific wine pairing, sometimes the best choice to highlight a food selection isn’t just one wine or even a wine at all. Not sure what the best choice is for your meal? Ask your server or the restaurant’s wine director – they are usually your best sources of information. Additionally, please take note of our local specialists in the Memphis Roots and Columns sections. Our city offers an amazing depth of professionals who are eager to share their wisdom and insight. And don’t worry if you disagree with them at times; it’s a matter of personal preference and tastes. We ask you, however, to keep an open mind and explore what is new and unfamiliar. I always encourage you, the readers, to let me know if you want to see something different that we haven’t showcased yet or if you have any comments. And let your favorite restaurants and wine and liquor stores know that you read about them in Cork IT!
Production Manager Karen Tobias Photographers Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia Featured Photographer Christen Jones Photography ©2011 Jacob Marketing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or graphic content in any manner without written permission of Jacob Marketing Inc. is strictly prohibited. All articles are property of Jacob Marketing, Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from Jacob Marketing, Inc is strictly prohibited. Photographs used in Cork It are provided and copyrighted by their respective owners and may not be reproduced without the owner’s permission. Jacob Marketing, Inc., dba Cork It, is not responsible for any errors, misprints, misquotes, or omissions. All rights reserved.
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Don’t miss Memphis’ latest collaborative website, www.MemphisCorkIt.com, featuring every local wine event you don’t want to miss. Keep your schedule packed with tastings, dinners, and terrific charitable events around town. See the magazine online and preview up and coming new advertisers in our area. Stay up-to-date with the latest wine and food related happenings on the blog!
On the cover: Cover Photo by Christen Jones 43 - A Conversation With Marc Gasol 58 - Cuestion Everything 61 - Lionello Marchesi Interview 4 - The Birth of Cool
Contents TAKE A LOOK INSIDE THIS ISSUE
5
15
34
57
74
83
5
Around Town
57
Around the Vine
83
Tasting Notes
15
Columns
74
Side Bar
94
Wine Resources
34
Memphis Roots
The Birth
Cool ------- of the ------By Michelle Manker
If you asked Alchemy Memphis owner Bert Smythe the simple question “Why?” his reply would be: “Because no one else in Memphis was doing the artisan cocktail with the degree of creativity and correctness that we try to. And our plan is to continue to elevate the program as we go.” Welcome to Alchemy Memphis, where the night isn’t over until they say it is. Alchemy Memphis opened its doors at 940 S. Cooper, in the Cooper-Young Historic District, on November 12, 2011. The definition of the word ‘alchemy’ is any magical power or process that transmutes a common substance, usually of little value, into a substance of great value. Quite a few would agree that’s exactly what Smythe has done. When Bert and his wife, Shantih, envisioned the bar and restaurant over 5 years ago, their research was both work in the name of their quest and a damn good time for the researchers. After visiting a lounge-y hotspot in New Orleans and shortly afterwards, experiencing the meticulous and inspired drinks from an inventive cocktail bar in San Francisco, the Smythes had a vision of combining these elements with the relaxed welcoming atmosphere Smythe is known for in both of his other ventures, McEwen’s on Monroe and McEwen’s Oxford. This mystical combination eventually led to the creation of Alchemy, which has quickly become the hottest spot in town. While the idea for Alchemy was gestating, the pair took numerous adventures around the country visiting artisan and classic cocktail bars and restaurants, and tasting original drinks and re-creations of the classics. They absorbed the atmospheres, methods, and tricks of the trade and incorporated them into a one of a kind experience that greets patrons within the walls of Alchemy Memphis today. How do they accomplish this transmutation of base ingredients into gold? First, let’s talk ingredients. Fresh juices? A must. And by that they mean, fresh-squeezed, in house, every day, juices. Furthermore, this degree of attention to detail applies across the board – syrups, purees, high-end call brands,
you name it. Even the “house” whisky is from a selected barrel, chosen by the team at Alchemy Memphis. Technique is key, along with unswerving attention to detail. Bar staff are tested weekly for consistency and to sharpen expertise. And their pride in providing excellent, knowledgeable service is apparent to everyone who walks through the door. Another declaration of Alchemy’s dedication and on-going commitment is their relationship with one of America’s top mixologists, Andy Seymour of akawinegeek (http://www.akawinegeek. com). His reputation and experience bring a wealth of depth and diversity to the cocktail program at Alchemy Memphis and with his partnership, the good just keeps getting better. Andy visits regularly to continue working with the bar staff by conducting mixology sessions including advanced training and education. The focus on excellence embodies Alchemy Memphis’ commitment to their customers. Many of the drinks on their exciting and intriguing list are originals all their own. There are a few spin-offs from classics and of course, true classic cocktails are always available. All they ask of you is to remember that a great deal of attention and detail does go into the creation and presentation of your libation, so please be patient with them throughout the process. That’s easy to do because it’s way too much fun to watch the action behind the bar as it happens! Meanwhile, the delectable small plates menu crafted by Executive Chef and Managing Partner Karen Roth will keep you captivated and satisfied. This was another part of the plan … to pair the cocktails with the food. The Smythes personally prefer a small plates format of dining, allowing diners the chance to taste multiple menu items as opposed to being committed to a single entrée. In the words of Ben McLean, General Manager and Managing Partner, pairing the cocktails with small plates enhances the atmosphere of Alchemy’s vision. The plates blend seamlessly – and magically – with the cocktails. In this case, all that glitters is gold. Speaking of, have you seen the place? Word on the streets has a common theme: stepping into Alchemy is like stepping outside of
Memphis into another big city. Some say Los Angeles, some say New York. All say walking through the door into Alchemy Memphis is akin to crossing the threshold into another world. Soaring ceilings, exposed beams and ductwork, richly stained concrete floors. A remarkable birch bar top with an industrial pipe rail for its footrest. Tall comfy barstools and cushy banquettes throughout the bar and dining area, and even with all of this, you haven’t even reached the Back Room yet. Think dim lighting, a generous leather sofa, comfortable armchairs, and black and white photography that’ll surely draw a grin. All of this is the work of Amelia Carkuff of Carkuff Interiors (http://carkuff.com). Her vision gives Alchemy Memphis a beauty that draws you in and keeps you relaxed while you’re there. Red Deluxe Brand Development (http:// reddeluxe.com/site/) contributed to the name and to the branding ideas. If you happened to catch the Mardi Gras spec, or even the Anti-Valentine’s Day one, you’ll see how their vision segues perfectly with that of the Smythes and the rest of the team. Ahhh, Alchemy …. The reviews keep pouring in and guests continue flooding through the doors. A few must knows: Alchemy does not accept reservations but operate as a firstcome/first-serve establishment. They will work with larger parties planning events or celebrations or whatnot. Valet service is offered for $7. Alchemy Memphis opens at 4pm every day of the week and the kitchen is open until 1am Monday through Saturday and until 10pm on Sunday. The bar … well, that mostly remains up to you. And the City of Memphis laws, of course. So, if you haven’t been by yet, what are you waiting for? And if you have, when will you be back? See you soon. I’ll be the one with the mischievous grin, shadowed only by my scrumptious Two-One-Two.
AROUND TOWN
AROUND TOWN
East Meets Wang’s Wine Pairing Dinner March 29, 2012
benefitting Wings cancer foundation at Wang’s Mandarin House
AROUND TOWN
Swine & Wine 2012
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Annual Event
From “MidtownStomp” a blog by Michael Hughes
It’s no exaggeration that Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen’s annual Swine & Wine event is my most favorite meal of the year. Pig & vino, need I say more? Each year I always leave thinking “how are they going to top that next year?” & each year they do. Swine & Wine is not just a delicious meal but it’s also paying respects to the pig. To use only part of an animal & throw the rest out is disrespectful of the life it gave for us to be fed. It’s truly obscene. Chefs Andrew Ticer & Michael Hudman not only pay respects to such a delicious animal, they elevate it. Blood sausage, guanciale, lardo, mortadella, corn nuts, pork rinds....wow. Every bite was fantastically porktastic. I loved the whimsy of pairing the charcuterie platter with PBR. Sure a wine could have gone with it but honestly an ice cold beer & piggy treats are a perfect match. I was so in love with the pig ear salad that I wolfed it down before I could snap a pic so I’m jumping ahead to the cannelloni, spinach soubise wrapped in braised pig skin with trotters in a ham brodo. Yes I said pig skin. It was rich, succulent & almost creamy. Paired with the Cooper Mountain Reserve Pinot Noir 2009 Willamette Valley, wow. The wine exploded with fruit, earth & acidity after a bite of the rich cannelloni. After that course we had crepinette of pig heart & snout over a sauerkraut puree with whole grain mustard “caviar”. There was sweet, sour, spice, brininess that was bracing against the rich texture of the heart & snout. The puree really worked here as a counterbalance against the pig. The leathery, dusty earthy darkness of Montecillo Rioja was brilliant with the mineral nature of the heart & snout. Next was jowl of pork with a blood & beet risotto. It was a gorgeous plate. The bright red color was so vibrant against the rich jowl. Some may find this dish strange but honestly it was just like eating bacon or pork belly. The fat was creamy & succulent while the risotto brought an earthy sweetness. The last course of popcorn gelato with pork fat caramel, chocolate blood torte with peanuts was rich, sweet & just plain fun. Paired with the sweet unctuous Felsina Vin Santo was like a dream. I wish more people were into dessert wines.
Cork IT Debut Party at Elfo’s Nov 22, 2011
AROUND TOWN
Southwestern Distributing Presents the
Beer vs. Wine
dinner at Amerigo April 10, 2012 by Chris Thorn I am ashamed to say that I had not been able to enjoy these delightful events that Southwestern has been putting on until now. Imagine my surprise, even more, after learning that beer was enjoying an undefeated record moving into the fourth dinner. Luckily, my man Billy Huddleston was representing wine this evening. He was up against a formidable opponent in Michael Barzizza, Tennessee’s first Cicerone, a certification for Beer quite similar to the Sommelier program. Chef Ben Hickey from Amerigo laid out a wonderfully balanced menu consisting of a golden tomato soup followed by a mixed green salad with a sharp vinaigrette, some tasty watermelon radishes and blood oranges. Entrée courses were especially superb; a sous vided pork belly accompanied by truffled cornbread and succotash, followed by a roasted Hanger steak with sunchokes and a mixed mushroom ragout. Dessert was a lemony tart with blueberries; very refreshing! Attendees vote on the pairings for each course, one beer and one wine. This dinner was a close one, with beer winning the first two courses and wine winning the last two courses. It was left up to dessert, but alas, beer took home another course and another victory. I have personally issued a challenge to Michael, and next time we are going to take one home for wine.
BEER -VS- WINE
Joe’s Passport to Oregon Wine Tasting at the University Club - Feb 23, 2012
Sweet Grass
937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN 38104 (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com
Victory Brewing, Golden Monkey, Belgian-Style Ale and Steamed Mussels Because of our relentless commitment to serving the best beers available, we paired this dish with Victory Brewing Company’s Golden Monkey Belgian-style ale. The herbal, fruity notes of this incredibly balanced beer make it a perfect pairing with the aromatic, slightly sweet and spicy broth of the mussels.
Saintsbury, Chardonnay, Carneros, 2009 and Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes The recent addition of Saintsbury Chardonnay to our list makes for this pairing. Because it is bottled without filtration, Saintsbury has vibrant fruit character and a richer mouthfeel. This combination creates a balance that is perfect for the lush sweetness of the crab and the bright, crisp flavors of the succotash that accompanies it.
Millbrandt, “Traditions”, Syrah, Columbia Valley, 2007 and our Country Farms Quail We paired the quail with Millbrandt Traditions Syrah. Incredibly versatile, it can be paired with anything from rabbit to duck without hesitation. The addition of Petite Sirah creates a dark, dense complexity with the jammy fruit and spices of this Syrah, enabling it to hold up to the big, rich flavors of the quail and brussel sprouts.
www.circamemphis.com
901.746.9130 6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119
Alchemy
940 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN 901-726 -4444 AlchemyMemphis.com
Gulf Grouper with Summertime Gazpacho Paired with The Alchemy Mojito Made with Cruzan Rum, muddled mint leaves, fresh lime and real cane sugar. The refreshing nature of any classic mojito is perfect alongside the infused flavors of our summertime Gazpacho and the lightness of the cocktail allows the grouper to show through, while the subtle hints of lime peek through.
Crispy Cured Poussin over Pozole Paired with Our Maximum Affair A delightful blend of Pueblo Viejo Tequila, Elderflower, Punt Ymes, lemon juice, Agave nectar. There is an elegance in this cocktail that elevates the dish, once considered peasant food. The aromatics of this drink stand out among the crowd, floral and herbaceous with the sting of Tequila and rounded by the sweetness of the Agave.
Pan Seared Diver Scallop, Watermelon, and Lemonaide Aioli Paired with the Main Street Shakedown A fun summer concoction of Hendrick’s Gin, Cucumber, Ginger and Lemon; The playful spirit of this beverage is great all by itself, but pair it with the watermelon and softer aioli and watch it sing. The hints of ginger, cucumber and the floral aspects from the gin are marvelous alongside the perfectly seared scallops.
COLUMNS “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing� -Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon Local Experts let loose opinions and facts alike, offering you a multi-faceted view of their world of wine. A window into the minds on the other side of the industry
COLUMNS
Transition Game – Spring Forward Don’t Fall Back By Jimmy Collins, District Manager-Tennessee, W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd.
Ok, so our “winter” jumped right into summer. Let’s make a pact right now that our wine preferences don’t have to! And just like any basketball team benefits from a solid transition game (including our beloved Grizzlies), so can your wine choices. What does that mean? Well, from an oenophile standpoint, it means drifting from those heavy Chardonnays to something lighter and crisper like Albariño or Sauvignon Blanc. Dare I say (gulp) Rosé? On the red side, as difficult as it might be to “just say no” to California Cabernet Sauvignon, the season is calling for a change—Sangiovese, Tempranillo, and Malbec are waiting for their turn in the game and you, the wine coach, should consider calling their number. With this in mind, here are some suggestions to stretch you this Spring/Summer: Let’s start with Spain: Why not? Señor Gasol is on the cover! Plus, Spain offers you some of the best value in the market. I’m pleading with you to discover this multifaceted wine culture because the quality is stunning—and the price is, well, “Trato Hecho!” (a “bargain” for you gringos) And despite the plethora of grape options in Spain, I’m going to mention only two —Albariño and Tempranillo. Albariño hails from Rias Baixas ( a Denominación de Origen or DO) and is my “I wish this was as popular as Moscato in the States” wines. Floral, lemon-rind aromas yield to lime, citrus flavors with a round mouthfeel—perfect for Spring and seafood. I highly recommend the 2010 Ramon Bilbao Albarino. It’s a single vineyard white without the single vineyard price and it has a Stelvin closure (screwcap) for convenience. Tempranillo is to Spain what Sangiovese is to Tuscany—it’s everywhere! And this Spanish red gem has many different names depending on the part of Spain you are in. Here are two examples of Tempranillo which, coincidentally, I recommend. The first is the 2007 Cruz de Alba Crianza. This is 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo clone) from Ribero del Duero (another DO), which means it’s more rustic, structured and concentrated than typical Tempranillo. If Tempranillo from Rioja is a matador, Tinto Fino from Ribera del Duero is the bull. The second is the 2008 Ramon Bilbao Crianza (the 2007 is gorgeous too!). This hails from Rioja (another DO) and has all the earth tones blended with rich fruit and pepper that is perfect for grilling. Crianza is an aging term that requires at least 2 years of aging. If you can find their Reserva (minimum 3 years of aging) or Gran Reserva (minimum 5 years of aging), you’re in for a treat. While many Americans buy California Cabs at the current vintage (2009), Reservas current vintage is 2006 and the Gran Reserva is 2003. Now that’s bang for the buck! Now you can see why I proselytize about Spain… If less rustic and more “New World” is to your liking, let me introduce you to Chile and Argentina. The 2010 Llai Llai Chardonnay and 2009 Llai Llai Pinot Noir from the Bio Bio Valley in Chile are lighter selections that don’t even need food—just a patio or a pool! Produced slightly French in style, these are not heavy wines or high in alcohol. For the Chardonnay, citrus and tropical fruits reign supreme as a taste profile with less oak and a more mineral texture. The Pinot Noir features black and red cherry notes with hints of earth and leather. Soft tannins finish out the profile. In Argentina, Malbec is as common as Lionel Messi soccer jerseys. And the primary region producing Malbec is Mendoza. So now I offer you an option from Patagonia, Argentina. (I want you to be ahead of the curve!) The 2009 Ruta 22 is the perfect burger/ grilled meat Malbec and is available in the market right now. The fruit (blackberry, raspberry) seems to dominate but the herbal notes hold court on the mid-palate and as you swallow, the tannins make their presence known. Ruta 22 Malbec and the aforementioned Ramon Bilbao Crianza should be your red wines of summer! How can I mention summer red wines without mentioning Sangiovese? I love Italy—food, wine, culture, history, fashion—they have it all! But when someone asks you what red grape goes with everything, your answer should be Sangiovese. Similar to the Tempranillo, Sangiovese
in Tuscany has many clones. So instead of listing specific wines and geeking out about it, I’m going to list three producers: Poggio Alle Sughere, Castello di Monestero, and Coldisole. These are three different wineries owned by an Italian wine legend, Lionello Marchesi. The 2009 Poggio Alle Sughere Sangiovese is inexpensive and delicious. The 2008 Castello di Monestero Chianti Superiore should cost more than it does (don’t tell the retailer that), and the 2008 Coldisole Rosso di Montalcino and the 2006 Brunello di Montalcino are a religious experience. There, I said it. Honestly, anything from Marchesi’s three wineries is a joy. Another phenomenal wine for Spring and Summer is Rosé. Some wine loving peeps get nervous when they see pink liquid in a glass, but Rosé is just a process that leaves the red grape skins on the juice for a short time allowing the pink hue. And Rosé can be very dry especially when it comes from Europe. Which brings us to 2010 Chateau Bonnet Rosé. The producer is Andre Lurton, one of the most respected in all of Bordeaux, France and he makes this blend from 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. The lively strawberry and raspberry notes are perfect with salads and grilled pork. It’s clean, thirst quenching and surprisingly full-bodied for Rosé. Next we head over to New Zealand. New Zealand is known for many things but in the wine world, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are all you need to know. The Crossings from the Awatere Valley in Marlborough over-deliver on both counts. The Sauvignon Blanc is crisp with typical grapefruit and lime notes. Where many Sauvignon Blancs are a burst of citrus and then die quickly, The 2010 Crossings Sauv Blanc lingers adding a touch of elegance. As for The 2009 Crossings Pinot Noir, it’s more rustic…more cowboy. A leathery, smoky aroma yields to flavors of grilled meats, dark fruits and rhubarb. This is one of the few Pinots that doesn’t just hold it’s own when grilling out, it invites it. If you really must have California Chardonnay and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, check out Josh Cellars. Brought to you by award-winning sommelier Joseph Carr, This is North Coast fruit and the 2009 vintage is 100% varietal. Joseph Carr uses a blend of French and American oak in the aging process and his intent, as a sommelier, is to make wine that is both food friendly yet approachable, and ready to drink. Josh Cellars is poised to be the hottest brand in 2012 and if California fruit is your sweet spot, than Josh is a “must-have.” And lastly, in keeping with the inclusion of spirits in this issue of Cork It!, here are two spirit brands making inroads to Memphis. Adult Limeade is the way to celebrate Cinco de Mayo (and the rest of your summer). Limeade is new to Memphis and brought to you by the Adult Beverage Company. Adult Limeade separates itself from other brands by using 100% Blue Agave Reposado Tequila and adding agave nectar and real limejuice. It doesn’t contain triple sec but it doesn’t need it. This is ready to drink—just pair with it chips and guacamole! We started with Spain and we’ll end with it as well. Licor 43 is the #1 selling Spanish liqueur in the world—we just haven’t embraced it as well here in the States. A secret blend of citrus and herbs developed back in 209 B.C., Licor 43 is one of the most versatile spirits in the market. Add pineapple juice and vodka and you have your ultimate poolside cocktail. Add it to espresso and you have something called Carajillo. Add a little cream to a shot and you have the “Mini Beer.” With such strong citrus and vanilla flavors, you can just pour it over vanilla ice cream! So there you have it. You’re ready to not just enjoy your Spring/Summer entertaining, you’re set to impress your friends with selections that will make you the expert. Why toss ill-advised, end of the shot clock hail Mary’s, when you can just make it a slam dunk?
COLUMNS
Armagnac – Ethereal French eau de vie by Gary Burhop
Armagnac lies within Gascony, south of Bordeaux, in the southwest of France, where the pine forests of the Atlantic coast give way rolling hills and cultivatable soil suitable for vines. This area is nestled between the Adour and Garonnerivers and abuts the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains. The area remains devoted to agriculture and is relatively lightly populated by French standards. The notable villages certainly are not household names to most Americans – Auch, Mirande, Earize, Nogan, Vic Fezensac and Condom. In 1909, Armagnac had the distinction of being the first area to be recognized as a named producing region. Then, by French government decree, three distinct zones were declared: Bas-Armagnac, Armagnac-Ténarèze, and Haut-Armagnac. In 1936, the region was awarded appellation d’origine controlee (AOC) status. Armagnac is typically distilled from wine made from as many as 10 different grape varieties, with Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard being the primary. Bacco Blanc (22A), a hybrid, was in widespread use after phylloxera until the early 1990s but has declined slightly after an attempt to phase any non-vinifera varieties out. Bacco’s significance is the richness it imparts; a full fruitiness, though not the most elegant in nature. It was the leading grape until the 1970s. Distillation takes place just one time in a column still, where it takes about 7 liters of wine heated just to the evaporation point to produce 1 liter of Blanche, or white spirit. This process initially produces a less polished spirit than say in Cognac, where double distillation in pot stills takes place. However, long aging in oak barrels softens the taste, imparts a rich brown color and causes the spirit to develop extremely complex flavor and Armagnac’s distinctive aromatics. The barrel aging process removes both alcohol and water by evaporation. (This lost spirit is what is referred to as the “angel’s share”). When the alcohol reaches 40 per cent by volume, the Armagnac can be transferred to large glass bottles known as Dame Jeanne, for storage of at least a year before bottling and sale. Once transferred from wooden barrels, the spirit does not age or develop further. Armagnac, like cognac, is labeled with several different classifications, referring to the age of
the component brandies contained within. If blended and it contains spirits of differing ages, any age declaration on the bottle refers to the youngest component brandy. A “VS” Armagnac, sometimes labeled as ‘three star,’ is a mix of several Armagnacs that have seen at least two years of aging in wood. For VSOP, the aging is at least five years. To be labeled XO the spirits must be at least six year old. Hors d’âge means the youngest component in the blend is at least ten years old. Older and better Armagnacs tend to be sold as vintage, with the bottles containing Armagnac from a single year and so noted on the bottle or label.
Gary Burhop, Owner Great Wines and Spirits
While a few similarities with Cognac exist, Armagnac remains very different. Just as Grande Chamagne is considered the premier area in Cognac, Bas-Armagnac is home to the top producers of Armagnac. While Cognac is dominated by large corporate entities and world recognized brands, Armagnac remains the province of small, mostly family, producers. Cognac is widely marketed and readily available. Armagnac on the other hand is limited to a few brands owned or marketed by one of the global spirits companies. One California-based man, Charles Neal, is almost solely responsible for importing artisan Armagnacs as a‘Charles Neal Selection.’ Among the producers he works with, the following properties, all located in BasArmagnac, represent the crown jewels of the region.
Chateau de Lacquey is the oldest of the family Armagnac producers having been founded in 1711. This very traditional producer eschews mechanization and works the vineyards by hand.
Domain Boingneres was formed in 1807. Today it is owned and run by Martine Lafitte. Martine’s father chose to replant the vineyards to Folle Blance, Ugni Blance and Colombard exclusively, a decision that contributes to a most distinctive and fine product. Chateau de Ravignan has produced wine and spirits for 280 years. Ravignan enjoys tremendous respect within the Armagnac region. Distillation at a low degree insures lots of fruit, new oak gives wonderful structure, and long aging insures a natural concentration of flavors. A large array of subtle flavors always weaves their way in and out of the glass, and the Chateau de Ravignan Armagnacs normally receive top marks. Chateau de Briat, dates to 1540. In 1864 after a succession of owners, the domain was taken over by Baron Raoul de PichonLongueville. The Pichon-Longueville family, who already owned the famous vineyard of the same name in Pauillac, used the estate as a country retreat while continuing the château’s tradition of distilling a percentage of the harvest every year and stocking armagnac. When the Château de Pichon-Longueville property in Bordeaux was sold, the Château de Briat was retained by Baron Raoul de Pichon-Longueville’s maternal ancestors, the de Luze family. Today, Stephane de Luze and his cousin Jean de Mareuil continue to make one of the finest Armagnacs by keeping vineyard yields low and practicing cellar techniques that promote a less aggressive spirit. Vintage, well-aged, Armagnacs are the rarity of the spirits world. Demand, fueled by the growing economies of Russia, China and other Asian countries has created competition for the best vintage Armagnacs and pushed up prices. Yet, with Memphis retail price tags ranging from about $150 to $250 per bottle, vintage Armagnac remains a relative bargain, on par with the finer marques of Cognac and considerably less than many bottlings of wellaged Scotch whisky. Vintage Armagnac is a world worth exploring.
COLUMNS
The Bourbon Supremacy By Ryan Trimm
The craze has covered the country. Bourbon is everywhere. It’s all people ask for, it’s all people want. Why is Bourbon becoming the most popular whiskey on the market? What makes it superior to the other whiskeys out there? And why is Pappy Van Winkle held with such high regard? Bourbon has been made since the 18th century, and southerners have always enjoyed wetting their whistles with this sweet amber elixir. But the fame that bourbon is taking on over the past 10 years is quite impressive. Whether it is served neat, on the rocks or in a cocktail…. everybody is drinking it. Bourbon is now what vodka had been since flavors emerged. I think most people are drinking bourbon over Tennessee sour mash, Canadian, Irish and even Scotch whiskeys because of its sweet tones. Those who are just beginning to experiment with whiskey in their early 20’s often reach for the highly branded products, like Jack Daniels, Crown Royal, Jim Beam. All three of these are familiarly seen in another form; Jack & Coke, Crown & Coke, Beam & Coke. From the beginning, we are taught to prefer sweeter drinks. It’s all our palate knows at an early age. As we get older and our palate matures, we still like that sweetness but prefer a more refined product. Pappy Van Winkle has become the most sought after bourbon in all of Memphis by far. A couple of factors have lead to this popularity but let’s start with age. Pappy Van Winkle produces a 10, 12, 15, 20 and 23 year old barrel. Allowing bourbon to lie in a barrel for over 10 years gives it the opportunity to take on all new characteristics not common to typical bourbons that are aged for 6 to 10 years. One of the other biggest reasons for Van Winkle’s popularity is its limited availability. I’m sure they would love to produce 1000 more barrels than they are able to, but due to aging and angel’s share, this family-run distillery can only produce so much. Although Pappy is so highly regarded and hard to find, here are some others for you to try. Eagle Rare is a fine 10 year old bourbon that any advocate would enjoy. It carries a toasty, buttery nut flavor that is both remarkable and unique. The 18 year old recently won “The Best American Whiskey, Best Bourbon and Best Bourbon 13-30 years old” awards at the World Whiskey Awards. Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr. Single Barrel is also great bourbon. Its flavors carry an oaky, dark fruit tone that is not found in most others. Blanton’s is known for its vanilla and honey notes that come off from the scent alone. Four Roses Small Batch gives you an entirely different perspective of bourbon with a toffee and nutmeg flavor to follow its honeysuckle scent. Bourbon has been around for over two hundred years but its popularity continues to grow. I feel that over time this sweet domestic whiskey will compete with the finest of Scotland. With all of the brands and vintages popping up, I recommend that you start trying what you can now. Who knows, you may just like it.
Ryan Trimm - Chef, Owner Sweet Grass and Next Door
“Bourbon has been around for over two hundred years but its popularity continues to grow. “
Believe it or not, YES. Being involved in the current spirits cocktail boom, I found it necessary to expand my horizons and revisit the intentions of the founding fathers of cocktails. But tasting the different vermouths that are the standard-bearers on the shelves in liquor stores and in the wells of our favorite bars, I kept asking myself the question best vocalized by singer Peggy Lee—“Is That All There Is?” So, I got on the Internet, talked to colleagues around the country, and looked at the drink lists of progressive cocktail bars. I was onto something. First, what is vermouth? It is an aperitif wine that takes its name from its first original ingredient, wormwood, which comes from the German word wermut. Now, as we know wormwood is the devilish ingredient in Absinthe. But that is another conversation entirely. Traditionally, an aperitif wine is served before a meal to stimulate the appetite. Aperitifs are bittersweet and herbal. They are also fortified, meaning they are blended using additional alcohol. Brandy is the usual culprit. Then, and this is the best part, they are aromatized using different botanicals such as herbs, roots, and barks. Ready? Here are just a few that are used: cardamom, chamomile, cinnamon, vanilla, saffron, marjoram, juniper, ginger, coriander, citrus peel, and cloves. Now I am starting to have fun. I also find that there are other aperitifs that do not say “vermouth” on the label but are available in America—even Memphis! Quinquina and Cocchi Americano are two of those. Where the main ingredient in vermouth is traditionally wormwood, in Quinquina it is quinine and in Cocchi Americano it is gentian. Americano, by the way, has nothing to do with our great nation but is derived from the Latin amer, which means “bitter.” It is also not the same as the espresso drink or the cocktail of the same name; which includes Campari, sweet vermouth, and soda. Different styles of vermouth can be confusing, but in my quest, I found the French vermouth Dolin, based in Chamberay. Dolin offers three styles in the US (including Memphis): dry, blanc, and rouge. The dry I find so refreshing that I actually enjoy it poured over ice with an orange slice. The rouge is sweet, which is great in Manhattans. The blanc is sweet also. Try a white Manhattan with Dolin Blanc and some Buffalo Trace White Dog (white whiskey). The new styles of vermouth are something like Carpano Antica Formula, which itself is not really new but a monster red vermouth that can also be enjoyed on ice or paired with whiskey, especially a great bourbon such as my favorite, Buffalo Trace. There are two quinquinas on the market that are also very nice. The first is Bonal Gentian-Quina. This is a French product and is flavored, as the name implies, with gentian and quinine. Bonal Gentian-Quina can also be used instead of vermouth in a Manhattan or a Negroni. The other is another monster called Cocchi Barolo Chinato. This is an Italian version made with a Barolo wine base. It is available in big markets like New York and California—and Memphis. You may have to ask your local retailer to stock it, but stores in Memphis do carry it. Finally, and also from the Cocchi brand, is the previously mentioned, Americano. Its sweetness is offset by an underlying bitterness that makes this a delicious treat on ice. Worth mentioning is another Carpano offering called Punt e Mes. It has a little more “amaro” character than most sweet vermouths. Amaro is a liqueur that is usually drunk as an after-dinner digestive. My favorite brand is Averna, which is especially great after a rich Italian meal. Also in this category in a wine form, is a product called Cardamaro. This is a wine-based amaro from Piemonte. It is made with an infusion of cardoon, blessed thistle, and other botanicals and is aged in oak for 6 months. One last thought, please do not treat these as standard vermouths that get stuck on a shelf or back bar. Try them and treat them as you would a great wine. Use a vacu-vin closure, but if you don’t have one, just refrigerate. These wines are a little expensive but well worth it. A friend who has a special appreciation for fine scotch once asked me why anyone would use expensive vermouth in a Rob Roy. My reply: Why would anyone not use great vermouth with a great scotch?
Where to
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Begin? By Steve LaHue, Star Distributors
The Manhattan 2 parts rye or bourbon (High West Double Rye or Buffalo Trace Bourbon) 1 part Dolin Rouge Vermouth or aperitif of your choice (If you use Antica Formula use ½ parts.) 2 dashes Peychaud or Fee Brothers bitters. There is an orange called Regan’s that will add a lovely orange essence. Option: Add a dash of Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur. Put all liquids in a mixing glass with ice. Stir until thoroughly chilled. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a skewered Maraschino cherry. Please don’t use the bright red, dyed version. If you can find them, Luxardo Maraschino cherries are fantastic. They are almost black in color.
The Negroni Bianco 1 ½ oz Gin (My favorite right now is Gin 209, made in San Francisco!) 1 oz Cocchi Americano 1oz Dolin Blanc Vermouth (not dry). Ice cubes Combine in a mixing glass and stir until chilled. Strain into a glass and garnish with a lemon twist.
Negroni 1 ½ oz Dolin Rouge Vermouth 1 ½ oz Bonal-Gentian 1 ½ oz Gin (Hayman’s Old Tom or Gin 209 are favorites) Combine in a mixing glass and stir until chilled. Strain into a glass and garnish with a lemon twist.
The Classic Martini 2 oz. Gin (Again Gin 209 or Hayman’s Old Tom Gin) 1 oz. Dolin Dry Vermouth 1 green olive OR a twist of lemon peel Into a mixing glass toss a handful of ice cubes, and then pour in the Gin and Vermouth. Stir well until chilled. Some may prefer shaken. Strain into a chilled martini glass and drop in your olives or lemon peel. If you make this a Vodka Martini cut back about a ¼ oz.on the vermouth. Vodka has a lot less flavor than Gin and you do not want the Vermouth to overpower the Vodka. You can also add a dash of Regan’s Orange Bitters. If you get a martini and there is no vermouth, it is not a martini but a straight gin up. Note: At times, I actually enjoy all of these cocktails on the rocks, depending on the environment. Feel free to experiment in the world of mixology, just as you do when cooking, add your own touches if it is pleasing to you.
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On Food & Wine by Chris Thorn
As global trends continue to press the idea of
the ability to drink local wine; that is not the
meets the right wine. People ask me quite
expanding the notion of wine, and the very
point I am shouting. What I strive to expose
often about the pairing. My first thought is to
nature of what good wine is, consumers are
is the beauty that people have known for
just order what you like. There’s a lot to be
left in limbo. Critics have greatly varied their
centuries elsewhere: Drink by matching
said for knowing and enjoying your favorite
review styles, and winemakers have stepped
local flavors…
If your flavors have Spanish
foods and wines. But I have to admit there
back and realized the folly of the last years.
influence, then drink Spain. If you classically
are combinations of food and wine that truly
Where the global style once dominated
cook in French tradition, well then you have
elevate both to taste levels neither could
wine, now stands a core of individuals
a painter’s pallet to choose from. I stress this
possibly reach by themselves. Being a chef,
who have refuted the theory of high scores
as an experience not a law, and one every
I like to first choose my dish and then the
and alcohol, they have gone against the
person should have. Drinking wine is drinking
wine. Maeve Pesquera, our Director of Wine,
grain and developed wines of character,
wine, eating is eating; we will always have
might argue otherwise, but that’s what makes
embracing terroir and personal style. Today’s
favorites, some more than others. There will
life interesting. In either case, there are two
winemaker is shrinking yields, limiting case
be dislikes and outright hatred for certain
general ways to go when pairing — a wine
production in the thought that greed may
things. Just like the childhood favorite of
that echoes similar flavors in the food, and
very well destroy the passion that spurned
peanut butter and jelly, sometimes, things
one that contrasts.
the art they bottle. Of course, economic
really were meant for each other. The myriad of options in cuisine and even
decline could be a culprit of renewed value, but in that case wouldn’t they just produce
As we explore food and wine through the
more so in wine have presented amazing
more wine, sacrificing quality for the mass
symbiotic eye, we can dive into the person
combinations.
New
things
are
created
production of cases? Today’s producers are
that is the Sommelier, the champion of the
every day in the vineyards and kitchens
more grass roots than ever, embracing the
grape, a know all who can regurgitate the site
of the world, there is a wonderful world of
land that births the grape, into which they
specifics and speak in tomes to the exalted
experience and passion that can be your
craft expression and certain uniqueness. As
juices of the greatest wines in the world. Or,
proverbial oyster. Embracing food and wine
these wines step away from the massive fruit
perhaps, the Chef the king of the kitchen,
is simple, all you have to do is eat, drink and
and ever climbing alcohol from previous
creating a masterpiece from raw ingredients,
be merry. Toast your friends as they fire up
years, we are left with purity. Purity derived
amplifying each component or highlighting
the BBQ this summer, talk about something
from minimal interference, the thought that
just one. His constitution resolute that what he
different to drink, it does not need to take all
the ground will produce the grapes and the
has plated is second to none. These ideals
your time and consume your conversation.
winemaker’s job is only not to screw it up;
of food and wine are no longer true, any
But when selecting something to drink,
for years chefs have trumpeted this mantra.
more than the first statements of yester year’s
remember to embrace the local. Think about
Chefs have constantly been on campaign to
winemakers. Today the Sommelier is more of
the comparison or contrast of food and wine,
showcase food as it truly should be, simple,
a liaison, connecting the chef’s vision and
it truly is one of those small pleasures that
elegant, and nourishing. The creations of
diner’s palate with wine, more attention is
add to the enjoyment of life. Food is unique
chefs’ the world over have regained focus
placed on the expression of the two together.
as it is a necessity and indulgence together,
on the natural ingredients, utilizing the flavors
The Sommelier now is a vibrant youth,
well, in my house, at my table wine is a staple,
nature produced, while not destroying them
knowledgeable and enthusiastic. It can be
at times it is the center piece to which a dish is
with overworking or misaligning them with
hard at times to not share the same passion;
created; other times the wine is floating in the
spices, fats, and other blankets of comfort
however, this passion is more about the
background, a soft nuisance of the evening,
and gourd.
experience than the wine now. More focus is
hardly discussed but always on the tongue.
placed on the likes of the guest, and unique
Slow down, look around you and imagine
The correlation is something those in the
small production wines with character. The
how much better life could be if you stop to
know have held close to heart for as long
chef himself is now more in tune via the
smell the Rose.
as…ever…food belongs with wine and wine
sommelier (or other service persons) and
with food, argue as you may, but tried and
more care is given to harmonizing the dining
“Here’s to the corkscrew – a useful key to
true is the ideology of the Locavore, It always
experience. The following excerpt is from an
unlock the storehouse of wit, the treasury of
tastes better from home. Eating local has
article by Russell Skall, Fleming’s Executive
laughter, the front door of fellowship, and the
been growing in favor, to support the local
Chef;
gate of pleasant folly.” -W.E.P. French
economy, to eat in a healthier fashion but most importantly as anyone who has picked
My life is devoted to good food. And one of
a tomato from the vine can tell you, it really is
the pure joys of food is the interaction that
just that much better. Now, not all of us have
happens when the right food magically
1. There are 4.9- 6 atmospheres (75 - 90 pounds per square inch of pressure) in a bottle of Champagne. This is why it is important not to let the cork fly when opening. When properly opened a subtle “kiss” should be heard. Allowing the cork to “pop” can be dangerous and allows too much of the pressure to escape, reducing the bubbles. 2. There are six twists to the cage. 3. The first Champagne house was Ruinart, established in1729. 4. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. 5. There is only one Champagne AOC. 6. Grand Cru, Premier Cru, and Non-Cru. 7. “RD” means Recently Disgorged. This wine has spent prolonged aging on its lees with its crown cap. It carries the patina of age without the oxidative effect of 10 years in the cellar with cork or the loss of effervescence. 8. Madame Nicole Barbe Ponsardin, also known as La Veuve Cliquot, is credited with this discovery. 9. Ten years. Most Champagnes are designed to be consumed within three years. 10. Swirling. Never swirl your Champagne as this damages the bead (bubbles.)
Answers: 10. What should never be done when drinking Champagne? 9. Most Champagne should be consumed within how many years of bottling? 8. Who developed the technique known as Riddling or Remouage? 7. “RD” on the Champagne label indicates what? 6. What are the three rankings for wines from Champagne ? 5. How many Champagne AOCs are there? 4. What grapes may be used to make Champagne? 3. What was the first Champagne House? 2. How many twists are required to open the cage surrounding the Champagne cork? 1. How many atmospheres (pounds per square inch pressure) are there in a Champagne bottle? The drink of royalty is loved by almost everyone, yet many Champagne Lovers are not familiar with some of the more interesting facts about “Bubbly.” Here are some questions to test your knowledge, or spark your interest in this marvelous wine. By Charles Warner
Champagne? So You Know Your
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WILL YOUR FAVORITE
BOTTLE OF WINE INCREASE IN
PRICE IN 2012? by Thad Cox, Jr. of Ashe’s Wine & Spirits,
B
ecause
of
excess
inventory
and
deep
discounting, 2011 was the year for wine bargains.
California wine shipments grew to 345 million cases in 2011, an increase of about 4.5 percent over last year. Due to the recession wine inventories backed up enormously. Wineries needed to move their wine so they created a discount boom that lasted for a couple of years to help move product into the marketplace. Now, with winery inventories more in balance and several years of limited vineyard plantings, the wine industry is predicted to be headed into a shortage of supply for the next few years. Vineyard plantings have been at an all-time low because financing was difficult to obtain and wineries were still dealing with oversupply do to the recession that hit in 2008. But now strong wine sales in 2011 have created a situation where wineries may soon be struggling to fill demand and therefore may have to increase prices. Another major factor that has influenced wine supplies was the weather. Both 2010 and 2011 were two of the coolest vintages ever in California. Compound that with the shortage of rainfall and both of these vintages produced much less wine than in a normal harvest. I am already hearing rumblings from our local suppliers that we will be seeing price increases in 2012. In fact, I have already seen a few wineries increase their prices. But because of increased competition, some larger wineries may have a hard time increasing prices. So, bottom line, keep an eye out on your favorite wines because there is a chance that if they come from California then you could see higher prices in 2012. Now let’s look at the bright side for 2012. For the past 10 years or so it was not so cool if you liked sweet wines. In fact, wines like white zinfandel, chenin blanc and french colombard almost completely disappeared from many retail floors and shelves. The big trends instead were the fashionable Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. But 2011 was the year for the sweet-toothed drinkers. That’s right, the biggest growth segment in the California wine market for 2011 included sweet tasting grapes including Moscato for whites and the now popular red blends that include red Zinfandel as the base varietal. Oh, and I almost forgot the chocolate-infused reds that have me completely baffled. So now all of you underground sweet wine lovers can come out and stand tall at your next cocktail party and order up a Moscato or a red blend like Apothic Red! Reprinted with permission of the author
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women of theVine About Women of the Vine: Inspired while writing the acclaimed book, “Women of the Vine,” Deborah Brenner formed the first of its kind collaboration of sustainable family grape growers and award-winning women winemakers under one brand. In 2011, Women of the Vine proudly announced its partnership with Farm Aid and to support America’s family farmers. Women of the Vine wishes to assist Farm Aid in its mission to keep family farmers on the land. Women of the Vine was selected in December 2007 by “Wine Spectator” magazine as Critical Reading, the best new books of the year for any wine lover’s library. Ms. Brenner is a recipient of the 2009 “University of Delaware Presidential Citation Award for Outstanding Achievement.” She also received the “2010 NYC National Association of Women Business Owners Signature Award” and the “2009 NY Small Business Administration Women in Business Champion of the Year.” Ms. Brenner is on the Advisory Board of the University of Delaware Entrepreneurial Studies and recently joined Senator Gillibrand’s NY Agriculture Working Group.
About our Winemaker, Alison Crowe: Alison Crowe, a California native blessed with a family that loves to grow, cook and celebrate with the food and wines of the Central Coast, Alison has always had an appreciation for the produce of California’s farms and fields. A lover of science as well as the arts, applying to the worldfamous winemaking program at UC Davis was a natural decision. After graduating from UC Davis, Alison made wine at Byington Winery and Vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains, specializing in estate Pinot Noir. Wanting to expand her winemaking horizons farther, she then began what would turn out to be an almost five-year stint at Bonny Doon Vineyard. Now, she is an independent consulting winemaker based in the Napa Valley. In addition to making her award-winning wine, Alison sits on the steering committees of the Wine Industry Financial Symposium and Central Coast Insights Symposium. She judges wine competitions, is a frequent contributor to Wine Business Monthly, pens the popular “Wine Wizard” column for WineMaker Magazine and is the author of The Wine Maker’s Answer Book.
Courtesy of Deborah Brenner, Founder and CEO of Women of the Vine
For more information: WomenoftheVine.com Facebook, Twitter
WOMEN OF THE VINE
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It Up! By Michael Hughes The most important thing when it comes to cocktails, just as it is in wine and in life, is balance. A well-made cocktail features components that harmonize and play well off of each other. One wouldn’t describe a great wine as just having tannin or fruit, or spice or acidity. To be considered great, a wine would contain all of those things and offer even more. The same is true for the best cocktails as well, but the difference is that you’re allowed to use your creativity to assemble that balance while using any ingredient available to you and a little ingenuity. Each component you choose should bring uniqueness to the drink when combined with the other components. Don’t be afraid to create unexpected and exciting flavors. Obviously, one needs to start with the best-quality ingredients available. Fortunately, in the past few years, the nationwide obsession with cocktail culture has hit Memphis. We now have access to some of the most interesting spirits on the market. This doesn’t mean that you should jump right into concocting elaborate drinks that require multiple steps right off the bat. It’s best to start simple and work your way up. A Manhattan, Old-Fashioned, and Bees Knees are classic cocktails, and everyone you know likes at least one of them. Once you have become comfortable making these standards, you will be able to please any guest that comes over to your house. Master these, and you’ve got a great base that you can use to infuse some of your own creative touches. Choose a cocktail from the following recipes and taste as you go. Much like any recipe, you might find you like a little bit more of one ingredient. Make adjustments to your taste and make it your own. A whole new world of cocktails will open up before you. When we achieve balance in life we achieve happiness. A wellmade drink can be a metaphor for our lives. Start with a good quality base spirit of family & friends; add in a good measure of passion; a dash of spice & chill thoroughly. Manhattan • 2 parts bourbon (such as Buffalo Trace, Maker’s Mark, or Four Roses) • 1 part red vermouth (I prefer Dolin Vermouth Rouge or Punt e Mes. • 3 dashes bitters (Fee Brother’s Aromatic Bitters or Regan’s Orange Bitters) Combine bourbon, vermouth, and bitters in an ice-filled shaker, stir vigorously with a long handled bar spoon until thoroughly chilled. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a cherry. Buy good quality cherries such as Luxardo. If you can’t find any Luxardo, I suggest you make your own cured cherries. If cherries are in season, buy a pound (or as much as you think you’ll need), pit them, put them in a pan, and cover them ¾ of the way with whiskey or brandy and some sugar. If you like, you can even splurge on some Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur or Rothman and Winter Cherry Liqueur and add that to the poaching liquid. Turn on the heat and poach them for just a few minutes. Let them cool completely, jar them up, and store them in the refrigerator. A great gift idea is to give a jar of these along with a bottle of bourbon to friends and family. Old Fashioned • One sugar cube • One slice of orange
Photo by Maggie McLendon
• One Luxardo cherry (or home-cured cherries) • 3 ounces bourbon or rye whiskey (Sazerac, Bulleit, High West or Rittenhouse) • 5 dashes bitters (Fee Brother’s Aromatic Bitters) • club soda Muddle the sugar, orange, cherry, and bitters in the bottom of a rocks glass. Add ice and rye and top with club soda. A unique spin on this classic is to substitute the aromatic bitters for more unique ones like Fee Brother’s Rhubarb, Whiskey Barrel Age, or Walnut Bitters. Or substitute the sugar for a simple syrup spiced with fennel, cinnamon, ginger, or even smoked paprika. Bee’s Knees • 3 ounces Gin (Edinburgh or Corsair Artisan) • 1/2 ounce honey syrup (Mix ½ cup honey with 4 tablespoons of water. Cook over low heat until combined. Allow to cool before you use.) • 1/2 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice • 2 dashes Fee Brother’s Lemon Bitters Combine all ingredients in an ice-filled shaker, stir vigorously with a long handled bar spoon until thoroughly chilled, and pour into a martini glass; garnish with a lemon twist. A cool trick here is to flame the lemon peel which toasts the lemon oil and adds another unique element to the cocktail. Simply point the flesh of the lemon toward a lit match or lighter and squeeze. This will express the oil in the peel which will ignite it and cause a small burst of flame. Be sure to do this over the drink so it will catch that toasted oil.
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W
hat can you do about wine occasions when nothing seems like the correct choice? For those of us who live in the South, the problem of hot weather is the most likely cause of indecision when choosing the perfect wine for a given situation. Imagine an amazing steak or your best gourmet burger from the outdoor grill, or perhaps some slowly smoked ribs or pork shoulder on an average midsummer day in Memphis. Here’s when the food clearly points you in the direction of a fairly substantial red wine, but the weather nearly screams that red wine is too heavy. Add to that you probably wouldn’t mind a beverage served well-chilled in the sweltering temperatures, especially if you’re the one laboring over a glowing charcoal grill. Dear readers, there is an answer, and its name is Rosé.
rethink
Pink By Scott Smith
The amazing variety and versatility of Rosé wines offer an essential middle ground between red and white wines when neither is an ideal choice. They are traditionally served chilled like a white wine and are quite refreshing for warm-weather and outdoor occasions, but they can also offer some dark fruit aromas and flavors and richer textures most often associated with reds. And since they are increasingly popular both here and in Europe, Rosé is available in an ever-growing range of brands and styles. Hopefully you already know more about Rosé wines than you did back in the heyday of White Zinfandel, the wine that turned so many American wine lovers away from pink wines. White Zin and other “blush” wines may actually have helped create a whole new generation of American wine drinkers, but at the same time they cemented in many consumers’ minds the idea that all pink wines are sweet and cloying. But, like white wines, Rosés are made in a wide spectrum of flavors from sweet to austerely dry. It’s the many dry versions of Rosé that are sought out more and more by wine and food lovers today. You already know that white wines are made from white grapes, red from red grapes. So where are the pink grapes? Interestingly, the juice inside a red-skinned grape (a few rare exceptions aside) is actually white. Red wines acquire their deep coloration from fermentations in which the entire mass of the crushed fruit is left together for the liquid to leach pigment from the skins of the grape as part of the maceration process. If the time is reduced during which skin and juice are in contact (maceration), the result is pink wine. And the winemaker’s artistic ability and experience can lead her in many directions when deciding how lightly or deeply to allow the color and richness of the Rosé to be expressed. The wines are found in colors from the most pale orange to deep magenta and everywhere in between. The term “Rosé” seems to be a fairly recently devised name to apply to pink wines; they are otherwise known as Vin Gris or Clairet in France, Rosato in Italy, and Rosado in Spain and Portugal. Generally, the European versions tend toward the lighter, both in color and body, and generally express white stone fruits, citrus, and strawberry elements; Try a Rosé from the Cotes du Rhone or Costieres de Nimes for classic examples in this vein. In the New World, Rosés from Australia, Argentina, and Chile tend toward darker color and more dark fruit notes of plum, cherry, and raspberry. As is often the case, California refuses to be categorized. The endless list of grape varieties from which Rosé can be made there means they cover the whole spectrum of Rosé styles.
By Scott Smith Wine Market
The term “Rosé” seems to be a fairly recently devised name to apply to pink wines; they are otherwise known as Vin Gris or Clairet in France, Rosato in Italy, and Rosado in Spain and Portugal.
Lastly, even the best examples of Rosé from around the world are remarkably affordable. While better than average examples of many red or white wines will set you back $30 or more at your favorite wine store, even the best versions of Rosé rarely approach $20; and the $14-$17 price range is chock full of excellent value Rosés. This is no secret in France, where Rosé recently overtook white wine in overall sales. It won’t be long in Memphis before 90-plus degree days seem to stretch out endlessly before us, so pick up a few bottles of dry Rosé to help you enjoy the long, thirsty summer.
RETHINK PINK
1044 So. Yates, Memphis, TN 38119
Looking forward to a Stellar Summer...Better stock up at
The Stellar Cellar!
901-763-3700
erlings@ejensen.com www.ejensen.com
Open daily 5:00
9005 Highway 64 Ste. 109, Arlington, TN 38002 (Next to Kroger)
Phone 901-371-8232 Fax 901-371-8233
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN
(901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
Circa by John Bragg
6150 Poplar Avenue, Suite 122, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Our Refreshing Spa Water Cocktail and Sesame Crusted Ahi Tuna with Wakame seaweed, black sesame crisp, and sweet soy aioli Created from cucumber juice, Stoli Vodka, a splash of lemon juice, and garnished by a lemon twist; the perfect summer lightness of this drink is the best to offset the rich texture of the tuna and is amplified by the sweet aioli .
Hect & Bannier Rose Languedoc-Rousillon, France 2011 & House-Smoked Duck Breast with field greens, raspberry-walnut vinaigrette ,dried cranberries and candied pecans. The massive fruit well crisp and rounded consists of raspberries, pomegranate and some strawberry a linear pairing with peppery greens, and the sweetness of the salad, while the cure on the duck adds a layer of body to the wine.
Michel Chapoutier Banyuls, France 2010 with Milk-Chocolate Rasberry Mousse Cake Chocolate chiffon cake, chocolate-raspberry bavarian cream with almond crunchies, are a wonder along with some Port like Banyuls, a fortified selection with hints of nuts, caramel and just the right amount of alcohol to cut the rich chocolate.
FOOD SO GOOD, YOUR DRESS WON’T BE THE ONLY THING THEY TWEET ABOUT. CFY Catering, LLC is dedicated to making your wedding celebration truly memorable. We specialize in couture catering, allowing us to create a unique dining experience that is reflective of you. We believe food should be entertaining, hors d’oeuvres whimsical, dinners classic, and every event different from the last. Tuna Spoons
CFY Catering, LLC • 901-213-4514 • cfycatering.com Caprese Bi tes Follow us: © 2011 CFY Catering, LLC. Tuna Spoons photo by Studio J. Caprese Bites photo by Jennifer Dickerson. Main photo by Bill McCullough Photography.
-Buzz WordsBrought to you by Cheers Wine & Spirits
Concepts to help determine your wine selections and savor those choices are beneficial to you. Wine enthusiasts are often interested in those concepts and wish to become familiar with terminology used in the wine industry.
Lynn Hays, Cheers Wines & Spirits
Terroir (tɛrˈwɑː, tɛrwar) is the unique expression of an area or region through wine or other agricultural, artisanal products. It is also the basis for many regional wine classification systems. Terroir produces distinctive sensory qualities that determine how enjoyable a wine may be to a particular consumer. Originating in France, the root is ‘terre’ – a French term for land or earth. Terroir differentiates one piece of land from another and often implies that a vineyard or region is preferential. Loosely, terroir is shorthand for uniqueness and greatness. The significance of an area’s terroir provides a “specificity of place.” Sometimes used as a mood-setting impression or marketing term, terroir is a unifying idea to denote an area’s special characteristics that include soil composition and climate. Environmental elements impart unique flavors and aromas to the grapes. It is a distinctive, encompassing philosophy that includes other facets such as grape varietal, viticulture practices, vinification and winemaking techniques. Many experts consider the essence of terroir the ethos of what differentiates a good wine from a great wine. Grape growing is an agricultural practice. Soil composition and drainage are critical to terroir, as is the soil color which reflects sunlight back onto the vines at varying rates. The natural climate includes environmental factors such as rainfall, average temperatures, sunlight hours, and precipitation. Weather will vary from one growing season to the next, but terroir often consistently influences grape quality and characteristics. Thus, soil and climate and their many associations work together to influence the character and very essence of a wine. All wines do not reflect an identifiable terroir. High alcohol levels or the use of too much oak can mask the expressions of terroir. Over manipulation during the winemaking process and too much or too little ripeness can also produce wine with no discernible terroir. Good terroir commands respect and grapes will not need exaggerated intervention by a winemaker to produce palatable wines. Thoughtfully crafted wines will experience variations from one vintage to the next. However, consistent characteristics will separate that area’s terroir from that of another area and repeat the distinctive qualities imparted by terroir’s elements. It simply creates something magical and magnetic about certain wines. You just know!
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Wines & Spirits
366 New Byhalia Rd Collierville, TN 38017 901-853-2211 Mon - Thurs 9am - 9pm Fri - Sat 9am - 11pm
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Item# 212 © 2011 14 Hands Winery, Paterson, WA 99345
Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2011 Ruffino Import Company, Rutherford, CA
14 Hands
Discover Washington state’s best kept secret The inspiration for 14 Hands wines recalls a time when wild horses – measuring a scant 14 hands high – once freely roamed the hills of eastern Washington state. 14 Hands celebrates the spirit of these wild horses with big, bold, juicy reds and crisp whites that represent the unbridled freedom 14 hands . com and spirit of the region.
Elfo’s Restaurant
2285 S. Germantown Rd.,Germantown, TN 38138 901.753.4017 www.elfosrestaurant.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia (drinks) and Ben Fant (food)
Jermann, Chardonnay, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, 2009 and our D & G Salad The classical roundness of Italian chardonnay excels here against the fatty lush texture of the mortadella, prosciutto, and bacon. While a richer mouth feel highlights tomatoes and blue cheese, and Miss Mary’s Dressing.
Marcarini, “LaSerra”, Barolo, 2007 with Cold Smoked Pork Chops and Spring Vegetables. The light smokiness of these chops develops beautifully around the soft berry and rose aromas in the Barolo, while a firm tannin structure and some subtle anise favors accent the juicy chops. Bracing acids are played interestingly against the oddity of asparagus and the herbal tones ring in echo with the rosemary reduction.
Flourless Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Bean Gelato, Chocolate Genache , and Peanuts We decided to forgo the traditional wine or drink pairing here, though a nice 20 year Tawny or Brachetto d’Aqui would do wonders. We chose a classic Italian favorite, the Espresso where the pefect balance of bitter and sweet dance on top of the chocolate and the gelato adds the cooling touch to supple up the concentrate brew.
McEwen’s on Monroe
120 Monroe Ave, Memphis TN 38103 901-527-7085 www.mcewensmemphis.com
Adelsheim, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley 2010 and the Warm Hazelnut Crusted Goat Cheese Salad Bonnie Blue Farm goat cheese, grilled pears, mixed greens, and apple-champagne vinaigrette are brought together beautifully by this shining example from Oregon. The sharpness of the “local” goat cheese offers a stark contrast to the roundness of the Gris, while the dressing is echoed by the fruit and acid at the wines entry.
Big Fire, Pinot Noir, Oregon 2009 and Our Pan Seared Chilean Seabass Vibrant fruit and a mid-palate of mushrooms and herbs highlight the sautéed spinach and mushroom risotto, while the glaze of soy and orange provides the wine with the needed acidity. The full, light tannin nature doesn’t overpower the delicacy of the bass, and the miso adds the umami structure needed to complete the experience.
Ghost River Golden Ale paired with the Tuna & Beef Tartar Duo Tuna in a sesame citrus soy sauce with avocado, shallots, cilantro & crispy wontons and beef tenderloin with a spicy tomatillo sauce with capers, shallots, roasted Poblanos & plantain chips; how could this get any better? By pairing the clean refreshing hop from local brewer Ghost River, the smoothness and utter drinkability of their golden ale is not really about contrast or compliment, but solely about the beauty of enjoyment.
Natalie’s
Liquor Warehouse
Please drink responsibly
1009 N. Germantown Parkway, Cordova, TN 38018 • 901-751-4232 • www.nataliesliquor.com Hours • 8am - 11pm Monday - Saturday
MEMPHIS ROOTS “A bottle of wine begs to be shared; I have never met a miserly wine lover� -Clifton Fadiman, NY Times 8 Mar 1987 A journey through our local heroes of the vine, a chance to see the people who have made Memphis proud as Oenophiles, a hint of insight into the minds that mold the local wine scene and keep our glasses full.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Fredric Koeppel Interviewed by Allison Jacob
>> I had the privilege of interviewing Fredric Koeppel while we shared lunch at Interim Restaurant on a gorgeous sunny afternoon in early April. I count him as one of my dear friends and was intrigued by some of his answers.
When it comes to your last meal and glass of wine on this Earth – if you could only pick one glass of wine and one meal – what would it be? That’s enormously difficult. I wish I could say, “Oh sure I can answer that.” Mainly what I like is simple food prepared the way that it ought to be prepared. And I think in a way that’s why I like Italian food so much, because it tends to be about freshness and simplicity. The wine would be a red Burgundy and if I could be really specific, not to go into producers or anything, but it would be a ChambolleMusigny Les Amoureuses Premier Cru. (“Les Amoureuses” is the name of the vineyard and means “women in love.”)
Is that an expensive glass of wine? Yes.
We’re talking what?
because I always am. But there always is that pressure. That idea that this might be a great meal but I also have to think of how I’m going to write about it.
It’s like two-fold the entire evening. Yes. So we don’t really go out a lot, but recently with you, we have gone out more than we have in the last couple of years, and thank you for that! So… what exactly was the question?
Talking about you enjoying staying home and cooking… We like cooking at home. We shop the way they shop in Europe, that is, we shop every day. We would never go to the grocery store and buy food for a whole month. We tend to call each other in the afternoon, what are we having for dinner tonight? We work it out.
About $150-200 a bottle, but this is my fantasy. As to the meal, that’s so hard because I’ve had so many wonderful restaurant meals and so many wonderful meals, cooking at home.
Are you a local food shopper, from Easy Way or are you a Kroger guy?
Would it be pasta?
If you had to describe yourself in 5 words – what would be a correct description of Fredric Koeppel?
I love pasta, but I think probably something really simple, a 3-course meal, a fish or a seafood for the 1st course, in the form of a pasta or soup. And if I could indulge the fantasy, with that course I would want a glass of Rose Champagne. The second course, I’m a carnivore, so nothing vegetarian, so maybe just the simplest thing in the world that can be screwed up in so many different ways. Just a simple perfectly done roasted chicken, roasted potatoes on the side, English peas and that glass of Burgundy. Classic, simple. That’s perfect.
You and your wife, Leslie, really enjoy cooking at home. We cook at home a lot.
Would you prefer staying at home for a nice evening, than going out to a restaurant with all the frou frou? Because you just have so much fun cooking at home? As you know I reviewed restaurants for 20 years and was privileged to be able to write about restaurants not just in Memphis, and not just in New York and LA, but also in France and Italy. That was wonderful. Once I stopped doing that, we really stopped going out to eat a lot. Because reviewing restaurants means eating in a different way, not that I’m not critical,
We shop mainly at Fresh Market and Whole Foods.
Critical, fair, honest, compassionate.
creative,
I
guess,
I would describe you as all five of those words too – I would also describe you as witty - dry, accommodating - too much so, a wonderful husband and a dear friend. Those are my additions. I read a lot of the restaurant reviews that you have done in the past, and one thing I noticed, how many different types of restaurants you have reviewed. It must have been extremely difficult to compare different levels of restaurants. That was baffling to me. In a city like New York, Chicago or LA – the restaurant reviewers for the newspapers and magazines only review fine dining restaurants. The other types of restaurants are typically dealt with in a side bar or a brief. In a city like Memphis, a smaller market, the restaurant reviewers have to review everything. So it’s a necessity. I have reviewed fine dining, lesser fine dining, BBQ, soul food, home cooking, and even the occasional chain restaurant.
When you are accustomed to a fine dining atmosphere, how did you turn that off when
you went into a chain restaurant? In terms of approaching different kinds of restaurants, it’s very important to be accommodating in the sense that you understand the intention of that restaurant, and what it’s trying to do, and the level at which it’s operating. Many times people say to me: You have never given a BBQ restaurant, even those that you like, more than 2 ½ stars. And I always say it’s because of the intent of the restaurant and the degree of difficulty. Like in the Olympics, in diving for example, some dives are scored on the degree of difficulty. The same thing with restaurants; however great a BBQ sandwich may be, from Payne’s for example, I love Payne’s sliced BBQ sandwich, it’s not the same degree of difficulty as what Erling Jensen is doing or Wally Joe. So you have to be able to go into a restaurant and understand the whole philosophy and the concept behind the restaurant so you’re not making comparisons that don’t work. You can’t go to Alcenia’s and eat soul food and say – well, how does this fit in the same scale as Chez Philippe – because it doesn’t.
So you’re saying the scale in which your reviewing, the scale as a whole, a BBQ joint in comparison to Chez Philippe, you said your scaling them based on their intention. I’m trying to understand how that works. You said Payne’s is your favorite BBQ sandwich in Memphis, and for you to only give them 2 1/2 stars, that might be confusing for someone that knows it’s your favorite BBQ sandwich in Memphis. Right? That’s possible. I tried to explain occasionally, in a review, and to say this is the approach I take.
In your opinion, where in Memphis can one find a great hamburger? Interim, Belmont, and in a completely retro fashion, I love the burger at Top’s. The classic, right off the griddle, nothing fancy, just very tasty burger.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Q&A “Chandler Cellar” Photos by Ande at Gemini Multimedia
“Eagles Eye View” George Chandler, co-owner of Eagles Trace, let us peek into his fine California collection, plus some other wonderful gems.
Describe your storage conditions? We keep the cellar at 55 degrees, in a build out from a garage closet, that we installed a door from the house.
How do you select your wines? I read several wine publications, visit wineries, and always trust my friend’s recommendations.
American or European? I’m partial to California wines, personally.
What do you look for quality wise in a wine that would make your top ten? Fruit, balance, structure, tannins, and uniqueness; not always in that order.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Best Purchase? Worst? Dehlinger Pinot Noir. About 20 yrs. ago you could buy this winery’s products on futures. We did for many years until they started to get great reviews in the wine press, went on allocation, and cut off Tenn. customers. It was a great wine at a bargain price up until that time. The worst was an experiment in Chardonnay from Virginia.
Most regarded bottle? I have too many wines that I hold in high regard to pick just one, but I see that as a good thing.
What is the best part of collecting/drinking wine? Allowing a wine to reach its full potential through aging and enjoying its many stages of maturity. The best part of drinking is pairing it with food and friends. As Euripides wrote in 400 B.C. “Where there is no wine, there is no love”.
Who is your favorite producer? Like picking my favorite wine; this is impossible. There are just too many outstanding producers world-wide to pick only one.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Q&A “Giannini Cellar” “A Larger Format” Mark Gianni, local lover of food and wine, let us peek into his wine walk-in.
Most regarded bottle? The 2007 Ambullneo Bonfire Pinot Noir, because it is a wine that I made myself with 4 of my best friends. It was an amazing and once in a lifetime trip to the California Central Coast.
Describe your storage conditions? A wine cellar built by Wine Cellar Solutions (Walter Smalley) and I keep it at a constant 55 degrees F.
How do you select your wines? I buy mostly online because I like very unique and boutique wines. I always try to have a few tastings when I am on trips.
Best Purchase? Best purchase was when John Anderson sold me a lot of large format bottles of Dominus that were ridiculously low priced.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
ďƒœ
You collect quite a few larger format bottles, why? Because I love having parties at the house, and large format bottles not only add excitement to a dinner party, it allows everyone to drink from the same bottle. We always joke about some friends, who will remain unnamed, that want to debate bottle variation – large formats eliminate that debate.
Worst Purchase? Worst purchase was not buying all he had, but at that stage in my wine buying I didn’t understand what a great deal it was.
What is the best part of collecting/drinking wine? The friendship and camaraderie that comes with it.
What do you look for in a wine balance, structure, power? I look for a wine that will complement the dish it is being paired with. I also love to do head to head pairings with every course when I am doing a dinner party. That really livens up with conversations.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Q&A “Anonymous Memephis Wine Treasures” We visited the large collection of a local wine lover, and this beauty of a cellar was what we found. Bottles ranging from very old to extremely good and everything in between.
Q: Describe your storage conditions? We have a basement temperature controlled cellar. It was well insulated during our build out and is kept at 57 degrees F.
Q: What is the cellar’s capacity and how full is it currently? We have 3200 bottles currently and are over capacity by about 200 bottles.
Q: Is there a system you use to buy wine, or is it more of an “on a whim” thing? I have many lists that I try and maintain – from there it is by whim.
Q: How did you get into collecting wine? Why? I worked in a wine store in college in the early 80’s and the proprietor bought in to the ‘76 tasting in Paris and introduced us to California reds, some really great ones from the 40’s. I was hooked, but broke at the time. It grew from there.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Q: Most regarded bottle? Probably some of the older French – but not one in particular.
Q: Best Purchase? My first bottle – it led to a big expense – and very much joy!
Q: What are you drinking right now? Most times a white first and then some kind of red after. It all depends on my mood on a night by night basis.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Interview with Don Crank What is your background from a Memphis standpoint? (School, family, and memories?) I grew up in Memphis, went to Crump Elementary, Kirby Middle school and MUS. My Mom is an elementary school teacher in Collierville and my stepfather works for a company on President’s Island. When I think back, I always seem to remember Memphis in spring and all the wonderful parts of the Memphis in May celebration, especially Sunset Symphony. I remember WEVL blues on the bluff concerts at the ornamental metal museum. I guess a lot of my memories of Memphis revolve around music. Anything from Memphis that stands out as an influencing factor in your wines; either past, present, or future ? My mentor, Forrest Klaffke, was fond of saying that the wine remembers. We play a lot of Memphis music at the winery, especially Memphis soul Stax, Hi stuff, as well as Blues. So if the wine remembers anything, I hope that it remembers Memphis soul. I mean how could you go wrong with that? I am also always trying to make Memphis BBQ for the winery staff because you would be amazed what passes for BBQ on the west coast. To that end, I am trying to find or sometimes make wines that pair well with the strong flavors of BBQ. So far the best pairing is the 2011 Syrah/Tempranillo rose. With its bright acid and light body, it really cuts through the pork fat and smoke. How has your experiences in Beer brewing and Soy Beans influenced your winemaking? Beer and soy don’t have the acid and alcohol content that wine has. Their ingredients are shelf stable and grapes are not. So with other disciplines you have to be very clean and organized all year while winemakers tend to have seasonal lapses of work and are really busy during harvest. At Willamette Valley Vineyards we are bottling a good portion of the year and don’t have quite the up and down time other wineries have. So I think that Beer and Soy have trained me to be organized and motivated all year, not just during harvest. What was your “Ah Ha” moment, when you knew wine would be the way? I think that visiting a working winery in Burgundy, France and tasting in the caves at the Hospice of Beaune on a European trip with my brother Andy in 1998. I thought that I might try to turn my hobby in to a profession. I didn’t know French and I thought that California or Oregon might be a great place to start in the profession. I remember being very impressed with Burgundy, even more than new world Pinot Noir. As the new head winemaker, how will your past experiences and previous mentors advice influence Willamette Valley Vineyards wine going forward ? I worked at the side or our former Winemaker Forrest for nine years, and Forrest’s son Daniel is my Assistant. So I have to say that Forrest’s words and Ideas influence my winemaking every day. We have always produced world class wines that demonstrate a sense of place and we will continue to strive for that goal. Forrest would do all he could in the vineyard and with fermentation and then” trust in the process.” Of course Forrest is really on to something there because the process of making wine is ancient and powerful. Sometimes the right thing to do is nothing and wait. Instead of the term “aging” wine, the French use the term “elevage,” which is much more accurate. The idea is to elevate or “raise” as you would a child. Just like being a parent, a winemaker must know when to intervene and when to leave well enough alone. That is the most important of the many things that I will take from my time with my friend and mentor Forrest.
Don Crank, Memphis Native, Winemaker: Willamette Valley Vineyards
Give us the story behind the Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, it’s a concept I feel not enough winemakers explore. We just sort and coat the whole clusters of Pinot with yeast and chuck them in the tank. Instead of physically macerating the must as we would do in traditional method Pinot Noir ferments, we let the bubbles of carbon dioxide do the macerating. You get a lighter bodied wine with less bitter tannin, but as a trade off all of this wonderful strawberry and cherry nose. The wine has a “Noveau” quality, but it still has the guts of a Pinot Noir so it is complex and earthy as well. This is really a unique process for us, but people really seem to love this wine. It is fun to drink in the summer with a slight chill. How does WVV maintain such high quality standards in regards to the amount of wine you produce? We take great pains to ferment each and every small lot separately. I run my red fermentations as you would find in any small boutique winery in Oregon. I use only 2 ton fermenters ; I just have more of them than everyone else. It takes an army to hand punch that many fermenters and another army to analyze the results. We use only French Oak barrels on the Pinot Noir and don’t fool around with Micro ox or oak sawdust. We are traditional Pinot Noir winery that produces wine in a “small winery” way. What trends in Oregon wine have you excited, or are conversely keeping you up at night? I am excited to see that Oregon is being seen as a place to grow world class Riesling and I can’t wait to see what the future holds there. Also the Dijon Clone Chardonnay grown In the Willamette Valley is beginning to get some press. I think these Oregon grown Chardonnays are going to really impress people as a welcome departure from the tried and true formula of less than impressive fruit masked with loads of American oak prevalent in the market place.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
A Conversation with
Marc Gasol by Allison Jacob
When one thinks of the Memphis Grizzlies, typical descriptions come to mind: superstars, mega athletes, role models. What one might have a difficult time imagining is how much MORE these men really are than uber-talented-allstar basketball players. Before this interview was conceived I started brainstorming about how I could make Cork IT a more approachable magazine, more accessible to the Memphis masses. As I considered many obvious “angles,” the more I recognized an element that would not only broaden the Cork IT readership base, but also diversify our Memphis Grizzlies. Marc Gasol was born January 29, 1985 in Barcelona, Spain. As a teenager in 2001, he moved to the Memphis suburbs with his parents, after his older brother Pau Gasol was drafted and signed by the Memphis Grizzlies. Gasol played high school basketball at Lausanne Collegiate School in Memphis. After his graduation from Lausanne, he returned to his home country of Spain to play in the Liga ACB. Gasol was part of the Spanish national basketball team that won the gold medal at the 2006 FIBA World Championship and the silver medal at the 2007 FIBA European Championship. He was also a part of the Spanish team that won the silver medal at the 2008 Olympics Basketball Tournament and the gold medal at the 2009 FIBA European Championships. Marc now plays for the Memphis Grizzlies but was drafted in the second round, 48th overall, by the Los Angeles Lakers in the 2007 NBA Draft. He is 7’1” tall and is the younger brother of Lakers Pau Gasol. Marc’s draft rights were traded by the Lakers On February 1, 2008 to the Memphis Grizzlies as part of a trade package that included his older brother, Pau, who went to the Lakers. No other instance is known where an NBA player was traded for his brother. Gasol’s rookie season was very successful, breaking the franchise rookie record of the highest field goal percentage at the end of the season by shooting 53%. The previous record was held by his older brother Pau, who shot 51.8% from the field his rookie season.
A Conversation with
Marc Gasol With your hometown being almost literally in the middle of cava country – do you drink a lot of bubbles? Not anymore, maybe at first, I like wine more than cava. And most of the cava places do a lot of wine too, so at the same winery you can get cava and wine. So, cava is bubbles? Yes. That’s how you say champagne or sparkling? No, they are not the same, cava and champagne are not the same. Cava is a little more drier than champagne. More like Brut? Yes, more like Brut. And do you prefer more structured style from Priorat and Ribera del Duero? That is two areas I really like, Priorat is a very special area, that’s great wine. Ribera is probably more known worldwide than Priorat. But Priorat has some really small wineries that are really, really, really good. If you had a preference, would it be between that or the rioja? I would probably go with Priorat. Is it higher end? No, it’s not higher end, it has more accents to it, and it is a little different. The rioja is more solid, you always get the same. Over the years, it’s very solid. The good years for Priorat, it’s really unique. Let’s talk about Spanish nightlife. Is it really like what we assume? What do you assume? It’s beautiful people, eating tapas, late night? Definitely yes. Our style is to eat really late and to be what we call “over table”, to sit there for hours. You have fellowship. Yes, we don’t care about what time it is. We work to live. Yes, there’s nothing better than sitting around with your family, enjoying relaxing, wine, fellowship comradary. Yes, it doesn’t get much better than that. About food and wine pairings – do you have any favorites? Are you more specific drink related? Or do you like things that are paired together? Not really, I enjoy red wine with pretty much anything. I think there is a red wine for anything. I think you can enjoy red wine at any time. So hands down, you prefer red over white wine? Yes, I pretty much never drink white wine, not even with sushi or fish; I’ll still drink red wine. There really isn’t a specific rule; it’s all about what you taste and what you prefer. But there are those stereotypes. You just don’t like the taste of white wine? There are people that say red wine is what makes them hurt the worst the next day. Do you get hangovers? No, I think it’s the sweetness and the sugars in the white wine that can really get you. And it’s fresh, so you’re thirsty, you drink, and the sugar gets you the next morning. Is wine the main drink of choice in Spain? We have really good beer as well, so you start with beer, and then you go with wine, and then with the cava. That would be the progression. Do you drink port wines? Yes, that would be after the cava. So, back to Memphis. What do you enjoy most about the city and being a Memphis Grizzly? About Memphis, you really have to live here to understand how much soul the city has, and once you embrace that and you feel a part of it, you become a totally different person. You play for a reason and for the city and you try to represent them everywhere you go. What are your favorite things to do in the city when you have some time off, I know you’re private about your personal life and I greatly appreciate that? Yes, I’m very private. What are some key things you would recommend for someone to do when they come in to town? Besides go watch the Grizzlies play? Downtown, you definitely have to go to Beale Street, at least take a peek. And then eat at the restaurants, I like Spindini and eat here a lot. Then you definitely have to go see the Civil Rights Museum. That is something you have to watch, there are beautiful spirits.
A Conversation with
Marc Gasol I’m 5’11 and I have trouble with the height I have, how do you do it? What is the most difficult thing about being a giant? I’m used to it, I don’t see any disadvantages. Special ordered clothes? Yes, but I can’t complain. Do you see yourself having a family in the future? Eventually, of course. How many kids do you want? I don’t know, I don’t really worry about the number, I just hope they are healthy. What are your other favorite sports? I like tennis a lot, and I like our football, which is your soccer. I’m from Barcelona and in our culture, soccer is really big. Did you play? When you are born there, you have to play soccer, it’s like a given. Tennis, I tried to play, didn’t look as good. Do you have pets? No, I don’t have pets, we travel so much. I’ll wait and hopefully I’ll be able to have a couple of dogs. Your brother (Pau) was just here? Yes. Are you close? Yes, we are. Close in age? We are 4 years apart. So you are really friends and brothers? Oh yes. Once I turned over 18, we became really close. Are you competitive? Oh, very much, yes, very much! And your youngest brother is where? He is back in Spain this year. But he lived in Memphis for 10 years. He has lived in Memphis more than any other city in the world. And you did two stints in high school here? Yes. How did that happen? Pau moved over, and the whole family moved. After a couple of years, I had a feeling I had to go back. If I wanted to play basketball, I had to go back home and really start over. Off the top of your head, what is a really proud moment of yours, one where you said “Damn, I did good!” One of the more emotional moments I ever lived as sports moment, has to be the World Championships overseas in Japan. We won that, Pau got hurt in the semi-finals, broke his foot. It was a very emotional tournament, it was my first time with a national team, and we won that one. It was a world championship and something to be very proud of. As far as fun stuff you’ve done for yourself, since you have become very successful, what is something you have done that has been a great purchase? Is there something crazy? No, I’m very low key. How did you find out you were selected to play in an all-star game? When we were at an event, at an elementary school in Germantown I think, and my agent called me and said I was selected for an all-star game. And we were jumping rope with the kids, it was fun. Did you play with anyone you met for the first time? Or were you surprised about meeting anyone? No, not really. We play so much against each other, even without knowing them; we have a good idea of who they are and what they do. But it was fun to play with a couple of old-timers like Steve Nash, and of course Kobe (Bryant). But it’s only for a weekend and I was excited about representing the city and the whole franchise. That was fun. Any players you look up to? No, not really. Did you have a basketball idol growing up? Of course Michael (Jordan) was huge when I was growing up, when I was 10-12 years old. That was the time he was supremacy. Later on, probably Tim Duncan. I don’t have idols because you might meet them one day and they let you down. On location at Spindini restaurant, downtown Memphis; Photos by Christen Jones, www.christenjones.com
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Q&A “Tate Cellar” Describe your storage conditions? Optimal – 52 degrees Fahrenheit and 65% humidity. We have a commercial unit that stays very steady. We also have a generator for use when we have city outages.
“To Love and Learn” David and Elizabeth Tate share their collection of vino with us; David shares a little knowledge and shows some love to the cheese.
What is the best part of collecting/drinking wine? The best part is sharing…….with your spouse, your friends, your family. There is an old saying, “good wine brings good people together”. We have found that to be true. The next best part is the satisfaction that you bought well when it was young, nurtured it well while it was maturing, and you are about to enjoy it now that it is ready to drink. If this experience comes from a wine that was purchased at a bargain, the satisfaction is heightened. Ultimately, it is just so nice to walk in the cellar to pick out something that perfectly fits the occasion – whether it is a meal or serving cheese or something to sip around the pool when entertaining guests, etc.
We understand that you might be a bit of a “cheese head”…What do you look for in a really good cheese, and what is the best thing you have had lately? We look for authenticity, texture, freshness and flavor. Ultimately, we eat what tastes good to us. We love cow, sheep and goat cheeses from Britain, Ireland, Scotland, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Greece and Germany. However, in our experience, by far the greatest cheeses in the world are made in France – all over France – Normandy, Provence, Rhone Valley, Central France, Ile de France, Burgundy, Alps, etc. etc., with the exception of cheddar-style cheeses where England is king. It is hard to name a favorite but, if I HAD to choose, it would be Cashel Blue, an organic blue cheese from Ireland.
Ask me what “hard to get” cheese I would love to get my hands on?
Answer: Isle of Mull Cheddar. This is a
fabled cheddar style from the Island of Mull, off the west coast of Scotland. What makes it unique is that the cows’ pasture diet is supplemented with fermented barley from the nearby Tobermorey Whisky Distillery. It supposedly imparts an ivory color and a smoky flavor to the cheddar.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
What are you drinking right now?
We drink what fits the occasion and we choose from what we have carefully collected over time. A better question for us may be, “what are you collecting right now”? We are seeing exciting wines from Corsica, Argentina, Hungary, sweet “ice wines” from Canada, terrific reds from Spain. We enjoy seeking out wines from more obscure parts of France, wines that are delightful but don’t have a following in the States and therefore are very reasonable in price. Example - the Cahors, Bergerac, Languedoc regions, etc. We recently had a Sauvignon Blanc from Slovenia - wow, that was different…and fun!! I would drink it again.
Your favorite bottle of all time? For me, 1971 Bienvenues- Batard-Montrachet ! THE most incredible white wine we ever had the good fortune to taste. I had it in 1990 Elizabeth, a 1949 Ch Cantermerle. Our joint favorite was a bottle of
What is the cellar’s capacity and how full is it currently?
1949 Chateau Haut Brion. Both of the 49’s were enjoyed in the late
Approximately 2000 bottle capacity. It was crammed full until
90’s. Just incredible.
last spring when we took advantage of the incredible prices
and still remember the taste and mouth-feel. It was spectacular. For
the Chinese collectors were paying for top Bordeaux (and some cult California) wines and sold many off at auction.
We still
have younger Bordeaux and an assortment of California, Ports, Champagne, German, Argentinian, Italian, Burgundy and Rhone wines. 20% of the cellar is dedicated to a collection of rare Armagnac, and a collection of Scots Whisky from rare barrels. Currently, we have about 40% capacity available. We now have a chance to remake the cellar to fit today’s world. When we first started collecting, one looked for Bordeaux, Burgundy and California. Today, however, the world has exploded with great wines everywhere. It is exciting.
Most regarded bottle? The rarest bottles we have are a collection of many vintages of Ch Potelle California wines (1994-2006) Her Zinfandel is “off-the-charts” good and won Wine Spectator wine of the year several times. Other gems are Bordeaux from 1955 and some Sauternes from 1962 and 1967. We also have several bottles of Dom Perignon, 1985 plus some 1985 BV, They are quite exceptional.
Best Purchase? Our best purchase would be the 1982 Bordeaux, purchased in 1989. We judge a purchase by quality, potential and value. A really good wine, bought at a good price, which develops into an outstanding wine, is what we would consider a “best purchase”. The 1985 BV is another example. It is an outstanding wine and, as it turned out, the best vintage that BV made during the 80’s. It is valuable now. It was not expensive when we bought it. Since we buy mostly young wines to cellar there is always some risk. The best purchases are really only judged 10-15 years later when they are starting to mature.
Worst Purchase? It was in a restaurant, when we were still neophytes and did not realize we could stand our ground. We suffered with a ‘corked’ bottle of Italian Chianti Classico. It had a bad smell and no fruit…tasted flat. We paid full price plus tip. That was our worst purchase. Our cellar is another story. We can honestly say that we do not remember making a bad purchase for our cellar! From time to time, one bottle in a case will go bad but that is part of collecting.
w o n k to t n a W where your favorite Chef goes
when craving BBQ Napa Café -
River Oaks Restaurant -
Chef Rick Saviori Favorite BBQ: Central BBQ -
Master Chef Jose Gutierrez Favorite BBQ: Rendezvous Beer Pairing: Ghost River Golden
pulled pork sandwich and wings Beer Pairing: Laughing Skull Amber
South of Beale Chef Bryan McDaniel Favorite BBQ: Cozy Corner BBQ BBQ bologna sandwich with their BBQ spaghetti. Beer Pairing: Red Brick Blonde
Elfo’s – Chef Alex Grisanti Favorite BBQ: Leonard’s Pit
McEwen’s on Monroe Chef Keith Bambrick Favorite BBQ: Three Little Pigs, Pulled
Barbeque- chopped BBQ sandwich with slaw and onion rings Beer Pairing: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
Pork Sandwich on Texas Toast Beer Pairing: Grimberg Blonde
Interim Restaurant – Chef Jackson Kramer Favorite BBQ: Payne’s Bar-B-Que - BBQ sandwich with an apple turnover and a Dr Pepper Beer Pairing: Northcoast Red Seal
Sweet Grass – Chef Ryan Trimm Favorite BBQ: Leonard’s Pit Barbeque - BBQ Buffet Beer Pairing: Sam Smith Nut Brown Ale
The Grove Grill Chef Josh Perkins Favorite BBQ: The Germantown Commissary - pulled pork plate with slaw and extra deviled eggs Beer Pairing: Spaten Octoberfest
Amerigo -
Erling Jensen, The Restaurant
Chef Ben Hickey Favorite BBQ: likes to BBQ at home. He prefers
Erling Jensen Favorite BBQ: Bar-B-Q Shop (on Madison) - Beef Brisket Beer Pairing: Newcastle Brown
Fleming’s Steakhouse Favorite BBQ: Bar-B-Q Shop (on Madison) - full rack of Ribs Beer Pairing: Abita Light
Newman Farms pork shoulder. He makes a rub comprised of 1-2 tsp of salt, 3 tablespoons paprika, 3 tablespoons of garlic powder, 2 tablespoons mild chili powder, 2 tablespoons of powdered onion. He then smokes it for 18 hours over apple wood chips. Beer Pairing: Corsendonk Monk’s Brown Ale
Circa by John Bragg – Chef John Bragg Favorite BBQ: Cozy Corner
Cortona Contemporary Italian Restaurant -
BBQ - Cornish Hen Beer Pairing: Duvel Golden
Chef David Cleveland Favorite BBQ: Bar-B-Q Shop (on Madison) - brisket dinner Beer Pairing: Rogue Hazelnut Brown
Erling Jensen, The RestaurantChef de Cuisine, Fortunato Oliva Favorite BBQ: - South Pork BBQ BBQ Ribs
Beer Pairing: Victory Prima Pils
Bari Ristorante e Enoteca Chef Jason Severs Favorite BBQ: Saigon Le - BBQ wheat gluten
Beer Pairing: Green’s Dubbel
Flight Restaurant -
The Grove Grill –
Chef Drew Bryan Favorite BBQ: Central BBQ -
Chef Jeff Dunham Favorite BBQ: Central BBQ - Because they have all those great sauces to try especially the Carolina mustard
Beer Pairing: Yazoo Hop Project
Alchemy – Executive Chef Karen Roth Favorite BBQ: Cozy Corner BBQ hot beef sandwich Beer Pairing: Yazoo sly Rye Porter
Pork BBQ sandwich
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Wine & Cheese: A match made in heaven
Ask Chris at Lucchesi’s. He will be glad to help you....
Marques de Caceres, “Deusa Nai”, Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2010 Pale yellow straw with complex flavors of apricots, peaches, and a long, clean, rich finish; great balance between fruit and acidity. Cheese: Pair with Fresh Goat Cheese Schloss Vollrads, Riesling, Rhiengau 2010 Light straw-gold color; fresh and refreshing, delicate and elegant; aromas of peach and pear with hints of lychee and jasmine and just a touch of spiced clover honey; initial sweetness turns bone-dry from mid-palate back, lending authority to the wine’s balance and tone; limestone and damp shale run cleaning through like a blade. Cheese: Pair with Morbier Michael David. “Incognito”, Blend, Lodi 2009 Crammed with fruit this wine has aromatics of honey, citrus, and apricots. This full bodied wine is pure without any hint of oak. Cheese: Pair with Petit Basque, Sheep Chateau Suau, Bordeaux Rose 2011 Expressive notes of red summer fruits, lively raspberry and strawberry rum, balanced entry with refreshing acids and good fruit medley. Richer textured rose but discernibly young. Cheese: Pair with Camembert Domaine de Catherine Le Goeuil, Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009 Dark ruby-mulberry color; packed with spiced, macerated and slightly stewed black currants, black raspberries and blueberries, with undertones of rhubarb and pomegranate; firm and resilient texture, moderately dense and chewy, layered with foresty, underbrush elements, vibrant acidity and granitic mineral qualities; pulls up traces of lavender and violets, fruitcake and plum pudding; perfect pitch and tone. Cheese: Pair with Roquefort Filon, Granacha, Calatayud 2010 Tight nose but can literally smell the acid, cherry and a little pop of anise, the mouth opens up into layers of cherry with a smoky cola feeling, there is a pleasant minerality of the graphite, licorice and oak as the wine rounds out, not super expressive yet but with immense potential. Cheese: Pair with Older Manchego (12 month aged) Elk Cove, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2009 Bright red. Strawberry and raspberry on the scented nose. Light-bodied and lively, with tangy red fruit flavors that could use a bit more punch. Finishes clean and brisk. Cheese: Pair with Red Wax Gouda Marziano Abbona, “Brico Barone”, Nebbiolo d’ Alba 2009 Dark, almost black in hue; there is plenty of tannin but the fruit keeps it in check; deep cherries and a touch of plum with fresh herbs and spice, and a hint of licorice Cheese: Pair with Grana Padano or Reggiano
MEMPHIS ROOTS
Inside the mind:
¯ Sommelier, n, french; Trained and knowledgable wine professional who specializes in all aspects of wine services as well as food and wine matching
I get paid to drink. I have searched for the best entry line, the easiest way to describe what the nature of my certifications are, but have failed to find anything more fitting then the simplest of statements. As I am paid to drink, I have developed an expertise on the subject, my knowledge ranges from the distinguishing characteristics of peat, smoke, and dry burning marsh grass in any of the various single malt Scotches from the isle of Islay to the understanding and identification of a glass of wine, based solely on taste and smell. I am able to determining grape variety, place of origin and a general range of age. My title, Sommelier, means my skill is in the art of food and wine pairing. The following is a written account of how the mind works when utilizing that skill: First, the wine must examined for aroma, taste, body and balance. The color seems to pick up and ref lect the surrounding light, Fragrances of white peach, orange and petrol jump from a beautiful German Riesling even when held away from the face. Underneath the predominate smells there lies lily petals and honey. Inside the mouth, the f lavors dance into a complex layer of peach and tangerine, honey and ripe green apple, while the finish allows a subtle sweet aspect to remain on the tongue. Body is determined by the weight with which the wine sits in the mouth, does it feel like water? skim milk? whole milk? Body helps to associate the delicacy of food to be paired. Acid and alcohol make up the rest, the idea is not to have too much of either. Balance is when there is no apparent surge in any one component, if out of balance food must be used to fill in the missing parts. Fats are used to supplement high alcohol while sugar tames extreme acid. Moving through the f lavor, my mind focuses on the sweetness and the green apple. Now considering the weight of the wine; it’s richly textured but full. The alcohol is lower than most and that means pairing with a protein of little fat, most likely seafood. “Seared Scallops with Green Apple: no…Seared Scallops and Sour Butter” This is still not enough to blend harmoniously with the layers in the wine. Tasting the wine again, the orange really stands out; lemon zest would add just enough citrus, without overdoing the orange component. C ontrast is always good in paring, but complimenting the existing f lavor profiles makes the work easier. Including peaches would be a wonderful example, but caramelizing them would add a smoky sweetness and contrast the honey-like essence of the wine at the same time. Now the butter is too rich, however I want to keep the original f lavors. Vinaigrette is such an overused term, and also to rich, but a mignonette is rare. Use the green apples to replace the shallots in the traditional sauce, and use homemade white wine vinegar; add the lemon zest and the pairing is almost perfect. The caramelized peaches need a sprinkle of salt to cut the richness, and then taste the whole dish with the wine. The scallops and peaches work perfectly with the Riesling offering a wonderful complimentary pairing, but that’s only one dimensional. Utilize something completely contrasting to add another layer, peppery Arugula, toss the slightly spicy greens in olive oil with a pinch of sugar to soften them a touch. Center them on the plate to use as a base for the scallops. Perfect.
Temperature and Humidity Controlled Wine Storage
To open in Memphis, TN in late May to early June Interview with Tom Cassidy
AJ: Can you tell us a little about your wine collecting and other interests TC: I have been collecting wine for over thirty years. I also started American Seafood Company which was a pioneer in bringing fresh fish to Memphis back in the seventies. I am privileged to belong to several wine and food groups and my main hobbies are spending time with my family, boating, eating, drinking good wine, and loving life.
AJ: What prompted you to look into wine storage? TC: Recently I have been asked about the possibility of storing wine for people whose collections have grown too big for their own cellars, or for those who may have an abundance of wine and no cellar in which to store. After reviewing the possibilities of this kind of storage in the Mid South area there is a void of valuable wine storage. Thus, I have started a project to open a facility that will be up and running in May or June of this year to store wine in a temperature and humidity controlled environment. This facility is open to any individual in need of a space to store such valuables as their wine.
Please feel free to call Tom Cassidy with any questions. 901-277-4026 tom@cassidyfinefoods.com
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis TN 38119 (901) 761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com Photos Provided by Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar continues to set the standard in steakhouse dining with its introduction of seven Small Plates to its menu. These lighter, healthier dishes represent a whole new way to dine at Fleming’s – to be enjoyed anytime with a glass of wine, shared with friends, or as a starting course to a meal. They can even be an alternative to a large entrée.
Penley,”Gryphon”, Merlot, Coonwarra 2008 and Sliced Filet Mignon on Risotto Beef filet, mushroom risotto and Merlot all exhibit a smooth, melt-in-your-mouth quality and harmonize well together. The perfectly seared steak and earthy mushroom flavors contrast with the wine to bring the berry fruit essences to the foreground.
Cline, “Cashmere”, Blend, California 2010 and New Zealand Petite Lamb Chops Oak-aged red wines almost always pair well with grilled meats. The grilled lamb has flavor compounds that are similar to thyme and pair particularly well with this Syrah-Grenache-Mourvedre blend with its chocolate notes and hints of cracked black pepper.
Silverado, Chardonnay, Napa 2009 Fleming’s Lobster Tempura The richness and sweetness of lobster echo the rich crème-brulee and citrus flavors of this medium-bodied Chardonnay. The perfect acidity of the wine balances nicely with the crispy tempura and soy-ginger sauce.
Amerigo
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN 38119 (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Domaine de Salvard, Cheverny 2010 and our Pasta di Mare Comprised of mostly Sauvignon Blanc, and rounded out by Chardonnay this wine is a natural choice for the different layers of flavor in the pasta. The smokiness and minerality are perfectly balanced by the mussels and Italian sausage, while the roasted vegetables and shrimp help to elevate the acidity and soften the very dry nature of the palate. The Chardonnay shows true on the end of the finish, offering a richness to complete the dish and unify the ingredients
Cousino-Macul, Sauvignon Gris, Maipo Valley 2010 and Scallops Veneto Fresh and bright, with good stone fruit and a lively acid this Chilean selection cuts right through the sweetness of the scallops and richness of the accompanying polenta. The crisp lemon is a nice compliment to the basil, lemon, and butter that make up the sauce.
Piraat Ale, Belgium paired with Bruschetta Amerigo A seemingly complex beer for the simplest of foods, not here, the saltiness of the Kalamata and sweet grape tomatoes are really brought to life by the caramel roasted malt, and soft grassy bitterness of this unique Belgian IPA. The beer takes the finish offering a subtle spice and peppered note that texturally contrasts, but is beautifully in line flavor-wise with the melted mozzarella.
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JOB #: CLIENT DESCR Genera VERSIO TRIM S BLEED: INK CO PERSON SPECIA REVISE
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Fleming’s features the finest prime steaks and an award-winning list of 100 wines by the glass. Join us for an evening with family & friends in our lively, relaxed atmosphere.
and stay to party
937 SOUTH COOPER STREET | MEMPHIS, TN 38104 ( 9 0 1 ) 2 7 8 - 0 2 7 8 | W W W. S W E E T G R A S S M E M P H I S . C O M
6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis • 901-761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/Memphis
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Custom Kitchens, Wine Cellars & more… See our work in the “Wine Library” featured in this issue. Call 901-578-5107 for free consultation. www.memphismaintenance.com Residential or Commercial Services
AROUND THE VINE “The wines that one best remembers are not necessarily the finest that one has ever tasted, and the highest quality may fail to delight so much as some far more humble beverage drunk in more favorable surroundings.” -H. Warner Allen Education, explanation, and excitement; full of interviews, editorials, and technical information, from these things our understanding of how and why we love what we drink is formed…In Vino Veritas
g n i h t y r e v E Cuestion d r a w r o F e f i L e & Liv
By Jason Fandrich- President & CEO Cuestion Spirits Company, Inc.
I
walk forward. What does that mean? Well, from my childhood on, I always heard to walk by faith and not by sight. What does that mean? To an entrepreneur, it means to walk forward into opportunity whether or not you’re fully prepared so that no opportunity ever goes without notice.
and starting a construction company in Tennessee, developing property, opening another restaurant, and finishing my first degree in Tampa and spending quite a few hours in my family business’s warehouse (they always put me in the back) and managing a couple of artists in Nashville.
recommendation from an executive inside the corporation. It wasn’t until a few years later that I was told that the reason was that the Spirits company had been sold and the job wasn’t available anymore anyhow. I’m glad I didn’t know that then, because the string of events that occurred after may have never taken place.
Well, nothing happens the way you plan, but I am certain everything happens After the phone call, I looked to my mother exactly as it should. And this is the and said that the job I was promised was no more. And, in the style that only my beginning of my story… mother has, she said I should take a break In the spring of 2009, I was visiting with my and accompany her to Mexico where she family in South Carolina and was walking had already reserved the time-share, so I into the Margaritaville when my phone cashed in my Sky Miles, got a ticket and rang. It was the CFO of Margaritaville flew to Mexico to vacation with my mom. For years, I looked above and asked for the Spirits and he called to inform me that right opportunity for me to achieve success. the job in which I had previously been As we arrived in Playa de Carmen, I was now unavailable. noticed a group of booths being set up I asked for an opportunity to use my skills guaranteed and talents and by doing so, maybe I However poetic it was that I received that on a side street off 5th Ave. With not much could finally start a career. Well, a career call at that particular place, the news was encouragement needed, my mother and where I would work for someone else for no less painful. I had been preparing a I decided to see what was happening. a change. The previous ten years of my change in career with Margaritaville Spirits What we found was a local tequila tasting. life had been spent opening restaurants, on the advice and encouragement of I tasted a few different tequilas before starting a mobile medical testing company a great friend and mentor as well as the coming to a booth that had a unique I know, that sounds lofty and possibly elitist, but it’s true. There are so many clichés out there such as- ‘luck is where opportunity meets preparedness’ and so on. But, if you find yourself in a moment where an extra question or another minute of conversation can lead to opportunity, then it all starts to make a little sense.
AROUND THE VINE
looking bottle on it and a happy fellow by the name of Jose de Jesus Figuroa Dominguez behind the booth. I tasted his tequila about three to four times over the afternoon and could not get past the fact that I had never tasted a smoother tequila. I told Jesus that I thought it was the best tequila I’d ever tasted. I then asked him if it was available for purchase in the US. He told me it wasn’t so I replied simply by asking him if he’d like it to be. Of course he said yes so I bought a few bottles, exchanged contact information and went to the beach to begin my vacation. I couldn’t get the thought out of my head that there was some reason that I didn’t get the job, was in Mexico, and tasted that tequila.
(farmers who grow and harvest agave) the master distiller, my future partners as well as a host of other people. We worked on plans to gain control over all our agave fields and instituted quality control mechanisms with bottle production and barrel aging. All in all, I spent about a month learning everything I could in the distillery, the agave fields and in the market. I also came back to the US with a partnership in the brand and the Sole Importer rights to distribute Cuestion Tequila domestically and abroad. This is ultimately how Cuestión Tequila landed
In the course of working up the plan he and I met the former CFO of CAO Cigars (via his wife) and he agreed to come on board in the same capacity. I then reached out to my friend Pinky Gonzales, who was the former owner of Nashville’s Echo Music, Belmont University instructor and marketing guru. We worked together to build a more comprehensive plan and then I presented that back to my attorney. It was then that I needed to gain my knowledge about the tequila, why it is what it is and what makes it different. So, I booked my flight and flew to Guadalajara, MX. There I spent countless hours discussing everything about tequila. I met with the CRT (Regulatory Commission of Tequila), a few jimadors
The name Cuestión comes from creator Jesus Dominguez who, when starting to make the tequila, he cuestion’ed everything about the process, and the name just stuck. The bottles, upside down question marks, certainly go with the theme, and they certainly stick out from the crowd. We have three expressions of Cuestion; Blanco, which is not aged, Reposado is aged for six and a half months in barrels and Anejo that is aged 18 months in barrels. Hopefully, we will have an Extra Anejo by summer. It will be aged for four and a half years in barrels. While Cuestión Tequila is distilled and bottled in Mexico, we try and grow some roots here in Tennessee. Our headquarters are in Nashville and we age our tequila in once used American Oak barrels that have been used once in Lynchburg, TN to age Jack Daniels. Heck, I grew up only 15 minutes from Lynchburg, so I couldn’t think of a better option for aging our tequila.
I retuned to the US a week later with three bottles and a sales sheet that was in Spanish. I called an acquaintance of mine who is a wine distributor and we met. He sampled the tequila and gave me advice about the label and the conformity of the bottle and agreed that this may be the best tasting tequila he had and he even offered distribution. Excited, of course, I began calling Jesus and telling him of my successes. Jesus explained his company’s position and the fact that they would be interested in partnering. I said that I wasn’t sure just yet, but needed to investigate further. I called a friend who called a friend who in turn is a lawyer in Birmingham who happened to be the Executive Director of the Birmingham Angel Network. We agreed to meet and began discussing this opportunity. He gave me advice on the compliance issue, federal license, etc. I came back to him with a business plan, all the paperwork and an increased knowledge about the business. We agreed to work together.
We are lucky to have had such a warm reception into the market place. While we are a small company with a great brand, we battle the billon dollar giants everyday. But, we’ve got great distributors that give us as much attention as they give the big guys. So, I think Cuestion Tequila will continue to be a strong competitor on the shelf and we will push for nationwide distribution. However, it just may take us a little longer to get there.
in the U.S. first hitting the shelves in Nashville TN in February 2011. We built a business, relationships and a plan to bring the world Cuestion. Cuestion Tequila is an Ultra Premium Tequila grown, distilled, aged and bottled in the Highlands of Jalisco, MX. In 2011 alone, we won 20 awards including Best of the Best- Best Highlands Tequila of 2011 from Tequila.net, Triple Gold Medals from MicroLiquor Awards, Gold Medals, Exceptional Ratings and Ratings of 92pts.-Blanco, 93pts.-Reposado and 94pts.Anejo by the Beverage Tasting Institute (BTI), Gold and Bronze Medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Silver at the New York World Wine and Spirits Competition and a Gold Medal at theFiftyBest.com. We feel great about our accomplishments and look for many more in 2012. I will spend most of my efforts this year in gaining more distribution. Currently, we are available in Tennessee, Alabama, and Florida and will be available in Georgia, Illinois, and Texas in May. We hope to grow throughout the Eastern US by years end and possibly even a few countries. I did, however, just get back from Moscow.
In between meeting and travel, I sometimes think about how I got here. I was set on a change in career but thought that I would be working inside a company on a brand, but the world had different plans and I am much more suited to be where I am. I assured my partners and investors that I would seek every opportunity; I would walk through every open door. I will not look back, other than to learn. I will walk forward and that is how Cuestion will be built.
Albert Einstein said, “Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning.” I would add to that by saying to always walk forward.
AROUND THE VINE
As we add Spirits to our knowledge base some related terms have been included in those listed below. The last three are a continuation of wine terms for your notes.
Distillation: The process of heating and separating the components in a liquid and then cooling into a condensed purified form, used after the fermentation to produce a pure spirit with higher alcohol Still: A device used for distillation, traditionally made from copper or having copper parts, to remove Sulfur compounds in the liquid. A still takes advantage that ethyl alcohol evaporates at a lower temperature than water; the still collects the vapor and condenses it in a secondary chamber. Stills can be linked continuously. Eau(x) de Vie: French for “Water of Life” a clear spirit made by double distilling fermented fruits, Brandy as well as Marc Brandies are included but generally carry their own designations (Cognac, Armagnac) Proof- Unit used to measure the strength of alcohol in a distilled spirit 1 degree of proof is equal to ½ a percent of alcohol Carbonic Maceration: A wine making technique; whole clusters of grapes are fermented uncrushed in a sealed vat rich in Carbon Dioxide. The fermentation happens inside the grapes, as the gasses build the grapes burst and release the juice. The weight of the grapes crushes those at the bottom of the vat, that juice will experience traditional fermentation. The resulting wine has extreme fruit elements but lacks any aging potential due to the low tannin presence. Most classically associated with Beaujolais. Botrytis: Botrytis Cinerea, A fungus that affects grapes by siphoning the water from inside the grape leaving behind the solid mass of the core; sugars, minerals, and acid compounds. This results in a more concentrated wine, not diluted by the waters presence. Noble rot, as it is known, is considered a beneficial infection and occasionally introduced manually. Botrytis has natural anti-yeast qualities and during fermentation can (and is encouraged) to stop the alcohol conversion, resulting in a lower ABV and high levels of sweetness. Chaptalization: A controversial practice of adding cane or beet sugar to the unfermented, or the fermenting grape must. The practice is used to introduce more sugar for alcohol conversion, not as an attempt to sweeten the wine. Cooler climates benefit the most from proper usage of Chaptalization and the practice is quite common in the production of Champagne. Countries such as Australia, Italy, and South Africa have outlawed the practice completely.
WINE
101
AROUND THE VINE
Lionello Marchesi Interview Allison had the opportunity for a wonderful conversation with Italian wine genius Lionello Marchesi, a
Sangiovese whisperer, if you will. His estates include Castello di Monastero, Coldisole, and Poggio Alle Sughere. A former industrialist, he has put his heart and soul into the wines he has helped to build. Note to reader: Mr. Marchesi is 100% Italian, and his words have the beauty of prose. Due to the nature of the conversation we have elected to not edit his responses.
What I would love to share with our readers in general is where
can be big to be involved in that business. So back in Italy I found
you got started? I have only heard parts of the story and I want
an American company that was producing seatbelts for aircraft. So
to hear everything. I love situations that come upon you and then
they were already involved in safety items. So my brain started to turn
you decide to make a life change; then you have very nice life
in the right way, and in 2 years’ time I started producing seatbelts.
blessings that come along the way. I’m excited to hear the story in
That was 1969. And I made a lot of money. We worked very hard with
your words.
the seatbelts, and in the meantime, in 1980, I said I wanted to go to
I was born 75 years ago during the war time. And the war time was
the United States to see what happens, what in the United States is
very hard, very hard to live, very hard to eat. So when I finished my
new. So I found there were a lot of producers of sunroofs. And I have
primary school I was 11 years old, I went to work in a bakery. Where
to tell you, since I have produced the seatbelts; I am in the auto
was this? I was born in a city very famous for the violin, Cremona. I
parts business. So in the US there are lots of producers of sunroofs,
mention two big names, Stradivari and Guarneri, everybody in the
but leaking sunroofs. Every sunroof fitted (installed) in the cars was
music business knows about this. In Cremona there is still a famous
leaking, it was a big problem. So I said, wow, I have to go back and
lute school for making violins. I worked in the bakery until I was 16, and
find out a solution to produce a non-leaking sunroof. And I did that.
at that time I said to my father I don’t want to do this work anymore. I
I was back in the United States by the end of 1979, so I presented
want to go to work in Milano. Cremona is a city about 50 miles south of Milano in the north of Italy. I went to work in a movie theater for 2-3 years. Then I went in to the army and stayed in the army for 2 ½ years. When I got back from the army I said I don’t want to work for somebody else anymore, I want to build something myself. In the beginning it was hard because I didn’t have a clear idea of what to do. So I said to myself, let’s go around the world and see what there is in the world. I was 25 or 26 and went to Australia. And Australia was the first country in the world to have fitted (installed) by law the seatbelts. And Australia is like the United States, there are a lot of Italians. So they said to me, Lionello, if you go back to Italy that
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my sunroofs in Chicago at an auto show. The people related to
said they would buy me. In the beginning I said no, these are my
General Motors came to me and said, Lionello, are you sure the
jewels, I built everything. You cannot imagine how beautiful the
sunroofs are non-leaking? I said I am sure. How did you fix the
3 wineries were. Then they said, why don’t you look at the check.
sunroofs? It’s a patent and too technical. I sent a sample to GM,
Mamma Mia! I looked at the check and I gave the keys to them.
they tested the sunroofs, and they approved the sunroofs, and
So I sold the wineries but I didn’t want to leave Tuscany because
we signed a contract for 10 years. In the beginning the project
Tuscany is a drug, a drug in the blood. If you live there for a few
was to produce the sunroofs in Italy and ship the sunroofs to the
years you are involved in the life of the area. So I said I wanted
United States. But then there was some problem in Italy, a lot
to start a new winery, new investments. So I did that. I bought
of strikes and so on, and let’s say we decided to move to the
an old monastery built in year 867 with a very big piece of land
United States to produce and assemble the sunroofs. I started
and it had vineyards. My idea was to get out of the contract;
in Detroit and then I moved to Denver. We were supplying GM
when I sold the previous properties I signed a non-competition
in Shreveport. Success. Then in 1983-84 I had a lot of financial
contract for 5 years. So I had to stay away from the wine business
possibilities and I said I had to find a solution to invest my money.
for 5 years, but in the meantime I rebuilt the old winery, I rebuilt
So I ran around in Italy and looked at Tuscany and at that time
all the vineyards. I bought property in the Chianti Classico area,
Tuscany was for sale. There were a lot of farm and wineries for
and when I say property I mean vineyards. I bought vineyards in
sale and bankrupt with financial problems, so I said OK, let’s go
Montalcino. And in 1999 I have been back in the wine business.
and see if there is some business to do. That’s when I bought property in bankruptcy in Montepulciano, I bought property in
So the 5 years were good to you? Yes, very good. But in the
Montalcino, (and) I bought property in Chianti. And I was the
meantime we opened the Monastero as a resort, 350 beds, 3
first to put together the 3 DOCG in Tuscany. A big event but
pools, 2 restaurants. It was amazing, very nice. And we worked.
at the same time a lot of advertisement and a lot of people
We worked with the Monastero, we did a lot of business. And we
talked about me. Lionello Marchesi, the new Renaissance man
have had success with the vineyards. With the wineries, we have
and so on…And at that time a big pharmaceutical company
3 new properties; Castello di Monastero and another winery in
associated with Proctor and Gamble, they came to me and
Radda in Chianti, where we were producing Chianti Classico. We put the name of the product of the Chianti Classico under name of Castello di Monastero. The second one is Coldisole, and in 2001 I bought the property Poggio alle Sughere. It was a beautiful property and it was the last investment, now I am complete. I have 4 wineries and 3 brands. It is successful and most of the product I produce is coming to the US. Successful to the point a big hotel company came to me 3 years ago and said, Lionello, we want to buy your hotel. You can imagine the end. So I sold the Monastero, just the building. And we are still partners with them for 10% but we will get out of the business very shortly. Will you still tend to the vineyards? Yes, sure. All the vineyards, all the property, we have a lot of property. Just not the hotel. What a road you have traveled! So back to the roots of what you love, the winemaking. You have such success, and I’m sure it has been humbling to you on all sorts of levels. What would
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you say has been your most prized victory? What have you done
spirit. Now is good for investments, but you have to be careful.
that you are the most proud of? It is difficult to answer this question
The economy all around the world is not the nicest. You have
because there are so many. And this is because I have been
to be careful and I don’t want to make any mistakes. We say in
always a very hard worker and passion with my business. I did so
Italian “passo dopo passo”, that means “step by step”. I love very
many jobs, I moved from one thing to another thing. Of course,
much everything I did and am doing in my life because there is
the most important success was the seatbelts and the sale of that
no recipe in life to say, “Lionello, you have to work until you‘re 100
because from there came the money to many, many, many, many
years old.” I can have everything in life, I love my job.
other things. And also the first 3 wineries were built in a way that I have had recognition all over the world for the quality of the wine
Tell us about your wine, the grapes. All the wine I produce comes
but also the popularity of Lionello Marchesi. And the last one of
from the Sangiovese grapes; it is a typical grape from Toscana.
course is to invest the money in the right way at the right moment
Some of the wines, like the Brunello di Montalcino and the Rosso di
and to have the idea to build something new. So I built the resort
Montalcino are 100% Sangiovese, some of the wines are blended
and then the resort was very important. And many many other
but in very small quantities. For example the Morellino di Scansano
things. One of the biggest things is to have a nice wife and a
is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. But in the end
serious wife. And overall stay always with the foot glued on the
we do this in a way that we have not destroyed the characteristics
ground. Do you understand? My family and my daughters know
of the Sangiovese grapes. This is the most important thing.
the value of the money. Everybody knows how much sacrifice we did because it was not always roses, we had some hard times. A
Which wine is your current favorite? In general, when people
piece of bread was all that was it for a while.
ask this, I ask if you are married and you say yes with 2 children or 3 children, and then I ask you which is your favorite how do
You haven’t talked about your wife. When did you meet her? Next
you answer? Touché! Let’s say this, just because I want to answer
year in June we will be married 50 years. We met when we were
you, most of the wine I produce is regulated by the law, the
very young.
Brunello di Montalcino and the Rosso di Montalcino are 100% Sangiovese because we cannot blend them, they have to be
How many children do you have? We have 2 daughters. One is a
100%. The same with the Chianti. So “IGT” is where you can play?
lawyer and the other has a doctorate in economy. Both of them
Yes, that is right. And we have some Super-Tuscan that you have
started in the US, both speak 5 languages. The oldest one helps
the possibility to use your ideas, and make something that is not
me, she is my right hand.
regulated. For example we have a couple of super Tuscan, Infinito is 60% Sangiovese, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon; Splendito is 70%
Your success has allowed you plenty of money to invest and to
Sangiovese, 30% Merlot.
do things. What have you done for yourself? I have many things, I have buildings, houses all around, I have had the satisfaction of driving a couple of Ferraris. But always thinking to be a noble person. I never show off my car at my factories because that was my private thing. And also to have a nice family and as I said to live simple. I think this is part of my success.
Technical note: “Super Tuscan” is not an official term, it was a moniker utilized by the media to relate to some the unregulated wines being produced in Tuscany in the late 60s and early 70s before the introduction of the IGT designation. At the time many winemakers began to disagree with the DOC(G) laws governing Chianti as they had been abused to produce
What’s next? Is there anything else that you have yet to accomplish? Every day you have possibilities to do something, to do something new. Time is flying and I’m 75 years old, but I don’t want to go on pension. I will work until I die because this is our
cheap bulk wine for mass consumption, and quality producers suffered the falling reputation and were restricted by Italian law. The wines they created were blends and at times utilized differing winemaking techniques, and were generally more expressive on a personal level, however some of the originals commanded such high prices the media dubbed them “Super Tuscans”
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Walking in Walla Walla: A Winemakers Roundtable By Trey Busch, Sleight of Hand Cellars
As a winemaker in Washington, I have had the pleasure of working with many different varietals from many different vineyards here in the Walla Walla Valley AVA, as well as the Columbia Valley AVA. And although I enjoy making wines from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, etc., I have an overwhelming passion for making Syrah. One of the many reasons I enjoy making Syrah is because of the diversity it shows based on where it is grown. The French have a word for it,“terroir”. It loosely translates to the impact that the geology, geography, and climate of a particular vineyard site has on the resulting grapes. I firmly believe that Syrah shows the terroir of a particular site better than any grape. This transparency is what is so fascinating to me as a winemaker. How can one grape taste SO different from vineyard to vineyard, sometimes only a few hundred yards away from each other? To help frame this discussion, we should talk about the history, climate, and geography of the Walla Walla Valley as it pertains to the question above. The Walla Walla Valley was granted AVA status (American Viticultural Area) in 1984, after the birth of the modern wine industry in the valley by its pioneering wineries, Leonetti, Woodward Canyon, and L’Ecole 41. At the time, there were less than 60 acres planted in the entire valley. Today there are over 130 wineries and 2000+ acres of wine grapes in production, with new vineyards being planted every year, reaching out to new and undiscovered terroirs within the valley. These pioneers were true visionaries; they saw that the climate and soils were perfect for growing world class grapes for world class wines. The warm days and cool nights were perfect for achieving optimal ripeness while maintaining the natural acidity to keep the wines fresh. The soils of the Walla Walla Valley are extremely diverse, with over 75 documented soil types defined by the WSU Geology department. These soils were the direct results of two major geological events. First, about 15 million years ago, the Cascade range erupted, discharging massive amounts of basaltic lava. As this lava flowed east and covered the Columbia basin (as much as 3 km thick) it cooled and laid the foundation for the soils of the valley. Over the years, volcanic eruptions also discharged large amounts of volcanic ash, which deposited itself on the basalt. This ash, along with the wind blown silt and loess, is a predominant soil type in the Walla Walla Valley. The other major event occurred about 15,000 years ago. A series of cataclysmic floods, caused by the draining of Lake Missoula (estimated to have happened over 100 times), swept across Eastern Washington State. As the flow of the floods backed up at the Wallula Gap, backwater overflowed into the Walla Walla Valley and was estimated to be at least 600 feet high. This temporary lake brought with it flood material of mainly sand and silt that slowly deposited on the floor of the Walla Walla Valley. Along with the influx of foreign material deposited here in the valley by the floods, the Walla Walla River (which flows out of the Blue Mountains to the East) brought tons of ancient river rock downstream and spread them in an alluvial fan over a 12 sq. mile area in the southern end of the Walla Walla Valley near the town of Milton Freewater. Commonly referred to as Freewater Cobble, the soil is free draining with very little organic matter, and is ideal for grape growing. Syrah has really found a home here in “The Rocks” area and will be a prominent area in our discussion about the terroir of the valley. Rather than tackling the task of explain the wines and terroir alone, I thought I would reach out to a few of my winemaker friends here in the valley that are also working with Syrah from a number of vineyards to discuss what makes this grape so unique, and how they feel the terroir impacts their wines. We’ll see if we find similarities or differences in the wines, as well as if (and if so, how) a winemakers style may impact the wines overall. I will interject my thoughts as well, as if answering someone else’s questions!
-Trey
Justin Wylie, owner and winemaker of Va Piano Vineyards.
Chad Johnson and Cory Braunel, co-owners and co-winemakers of Dusted Valley Vintners.
Greg Harrington, owner and winemaker of Gramercy Cellars.
All four make world class Syrah’s from different sites here in the Walla Walla Valley.
Syrah Variations in Walla Walla First, define your style of winemaking when
Noir. My first vintage of Syrah was 2003 and all
used French oak barrels, and the wine is known
working with Syrah. I think this will help
my fruit was de-stemmed prior to fermentation,
for its savory qualities. Smoked meats, game,
put things in perspective so when we start
today I am at least 33% whole cluster. I have
minerals, wet stone, briny olives, and dark fruit
discussing the wines, we will know what you
three very distinct Syrah vineyards; Portteus
flavors (plums) are the defining elements of this
were thinking heading into this process!
Vineyard located in the Columbia Valley AVA,
wine.
Les Collines Vineyard, and Va Piano Estate Chad: Syrah is a chameleon.
It shows its
Vineyard both located the Walla Walla AVA. I’ll ask all of you the same question about
pedigree more than any other varietal we work with.
the Syrah coming off of the Silty/Sandy
We want the vineyard to shine
through in the finished wine. I love some funk
Chad, Cory, and Greg, we all make Syrah
loam sites such as Pepperbridge or Va
and pepper but love the seductive fruit that
from the Freewater Cobble (The Rocks) area
Piano Estate Vineyards, to name a few. Is
Syrah has to offer as well. We also do a lot
of the Walla Walla Valley. Tell me what are
there a trademark characteristic from these
of stem fermentation when we can and co-
the defining characteristics of the wines you
soils in this area?
fermentation with Viognier. Quite frankly I feel
are making from this area, and do you treat
that we are just beginning to figure out our sites
these wines differently than other vineyard
Chad: We work with a couple valley floor sites
and how to get the most out of them.
areas in the valley?
that are quite different. From brighter red fruit
Greg: We are all about cool sites, stems and
Chad: We definitely treat them differently. The
sites. I think soil precipitation and how it relates
minimal handling. My real “ah ha” moment for
wines from our Stoney Vine vineyard are the
to canopy growth and management have a
Syrah was when I went to visit Steve Doerner
most distinctive wines we craft. The chemistry
lot to do with it.
at Cristom. We talked about Pinot Noir in his
of the wine is high pH / low acid wines with
cellar for about 3 hours. He is really into stem
tannins that are smooth and round. This makes
Greg: Honestly, I am not the biggest fan of this
fermentation. It just opened my eyes to the
for soft, silky and plush wines. We can throw
area. I find it to really excel with Tempranillo,
fact that Syrah is very similar to making Pinot
more stems at them and lean (press) on them
and of course, with Cabernet, but I have never
Noir. So when we make it, we are always
a little more without fear of over extraction.
been blown away by this part of the valley.
thinking about Pinot. Also, when I researched
This allows for more extraction of tannins from
We have some Syrah planted there and are
my favorite producers in the Northern Rhone,
the stems, framing the wine. We also do a lot
going to replant with Tempranillo. Syrah, for
I noticed a few commonalities; cooler sites,
of native (yeast) fermentations on the Stoney
whatever reason, in the loess sites, seems to
some percentage of stems and mostly neutral
Vine grapes.
need hillsides; some sort of slope. You can see
sites to darker and more structured, funkier
it at Les Collines. The upper, steeper blocks are
barrel aging. We want earth in our Syrah – smoked meat, pepper, etc. We don’t want
Greg: We use this area as a blending
generally much better than the lower, more
anything to interfere with that.
component.
textbook
flat blocks. It is a site, however, which must be
It
has
absolutely
Northern Rhone aromatics – sausage, beef
picked early. It’s very easy to miss; even by a
Trey: We try to respect the vintage when
jerky, the entire Salumi catalog in a glass.
few days. It also sucks up stems. 100% stem
making Syrah, and because of that, we see a
However,
fermentation is absolutely possible here, even
bit of variation in the “style” of the wines year
vineyards, the acid balance (pH) is usually out
to year. Our barrel program for new vs. used
of whack, making very soft, short lived wines.
varies from 15% to 40% depending on the
We want racy acidity in our wines to pair well
Justin: I will tell you Syrah from the silty/sandy soil
wine and the vintage. Warmer years (like 2009)
with food. To pair with food you have to control
profile needs more vine age before you can
typically will give us richer, more fruit forward
the alcohols as well. We find that the rocks
really get excited. I planted Va Piano in 2000
Syrah and will see a bit more new French oak,
vineyards blend extremely well with the hillside
and in 2010 I could really taste a difference.
and cooler vintages (like 2010 and 2011) have
sites like Les Collines.
The wines showcase more spice, darker fruits
especially
from
the
younger
with green stems.
and a denser rich mouth feel; definitely bigger
yielded wines that tend to be a bit earthier, and show terrific acidity while still allowing the
Trey: We work with The Funk Vineyard in the
more masculine wines. I think at least 30%
fruit to be the star. For the cool vintages we
Freewater Cobble area, and it is an aptly
whole cluster really adds the missing layer of
back off on the amount of new oak because
named vineyard. We make a single vineyard
texture and spice from this soil profile.
the wines are easily dominated by the oak
wine called “The Funkadelic” Syrah and sell
flavor, which is NOT what we want. We make
it almost exclusively out of the tasting room
2 different Syrah’s for Sleight of Hand, and they
(although Memphis got a few cases!). We treat
Les Collines Vineyard, at the foothills of
are dramatically different from each other,
this wine differently from the start. First, we foot
the Blue Mountains on the east side of the
partly because of site, and partly because of
crush 1/3 of the grapes, then de-stem the rest;
Walla Walla Valley, has really proven to
our decisions in the vineyard and winery.
whole berry on top of the foot crushed grapes.
be a dynamite site for Syrah. The soils are
By foot crushing, we are including the stems
deeper, and it receives significantly more
Justin: My style of winemaking for Syrah has
in the fermentation, which add a terrific spice
rainfall (20-22+ inches annually) compared
evolved over the past six years. I am not as
component, as well as tannin structure which
to the Pepperbridge area (12-14 inches) or
heavy handed with Syrah as I have been in
is typically lacking in these wines because of
The Rocks (10-12 inches). What do you find
the past. Today I use less oak and a gentler
the high pH/low acidity found in the wines from
intriguing about this site and what does this
approach to fermentation, utilizing smaller
the rocks. We use native fermentation, so the
vineyard bring to your wines?
tank sizes ranging from ¾ ton to 2 ton lots. I
yeast off the vineyard ferments the wine to
think Syrah likes to be treated more like Pinot
dryness. It spends 11 months in almost entirely
Greg: Les Collines is a special vineyard. Syrah
Syrah Variations in Walla Walla is at home here. It is dense, complex, aromatic
hot summer days with huge temperature shifts
gain its rightful place at the table with the
band the perfect blend of New and Old
at night helping to retain our natural acidity in
consumer. My advice is to get in everybody’s
World flavors. Wines have big fruit, but still have
our wines doesn’t hurt us either. What excites
wine club now or it will be too late.
earthiness. It produces elegant wines. Our best
me the most is the undiscovered vineyard that
wine, John Lewis, has come mostly or entirely
has yet to be planted!
Many of our growers
Trey: I see more planting on the Rocks, and I see
from this vineyard since 2006.
in the Walla Walla Valley are truly professionals
folks moving into the foothills, higher elevations,
nurturing these younger plants to produce
etc. Pushing the limits of our geography, I guess
Trey: Syrah is the star grape of this vineyard. It
retains
a
beautiful
earthiness
outstanding wines at such a young vine age.
which Do you see new undiscovered areas as we
complements our Yakima Valley Syrah from
go forward, and if so, why and where?
Lewis Vineyard (these 2 vineyards go into The
Why do you think this grape has a penchant
Levitation Syrah). It is typically higher in pH, but
for showing terroir more than other grapes
has terrific balance, and really adds a new
grown in the valley (or do you even think it
Chad: I think the west slope of the Blue
dimension to our wines, they would be lacking
does)?
Mountains above the Missoula flood line in the thinner scabby soils, will produce some
without it. We work with 2 blocks, ferment them separately, and decide on the blending
Chad: It’s the curse and blessing of Syrah. It
incredible Syrah. It is cooler and less affected
decisions in the spring following harvest.
grows well anywhere. But, there is something
by the soil’s moisture holding capacity in the
truly special about what’s happening in Walla
higher precipitation area. Anyone want to
Walla.
plant a vineyard up there for me? Seriously!
Justin: I source my Les Collines Syrah from BLK
Greg: I’d love to get a Syrah vineyard on some
30 planted in the early 2000’s to the Joseph BLK 30 has deeper soils and
Greg: Only if it is picked early. Pick it too late,
granite in the Lake Chelan area. I also think
tends to ripen one week later than some of
and then it’s a fruit bomb. But this is typical for
some of the higher slopes and hidden canyons
the other Syrah blocks within LC; because of
Syrah.
around the Walla Walla Valley could be really
Phelps clone.
interesting. Steeper slopes = better Syrah.
this BLK was planted towards the lower section of the vineyard. My block produces elegant,
Trey: I agree that the later the pick, the more
Trey: The slopes of the Blue Mountains and up
meaty, and earthy notes; average tonnage
obliterated the terroir becomes. The 3 blocks
the river canyons, but I see a trend towards
yields of 1.25 – 1.75 tons per acre. Every year I
of Syrah we work with in Walla Walla are ALL
cooler areas since Syrah can be a great wine
am more impressed with this vineyard.
different, and we are thankful for that because
at lower brix.
it gives us more tools for crafting complex wines. And I don’t know why Syrah can be a Almost all of the Syrah planted in the valley
great wine at 22.5 brix as well at 25 brix, but it is,
is under 10 years old. How important is vine
so I am not arguing!
age to you for Syrah? How do you think the wines will change as the vines get older?
Justin: Knowing when to pick comes from trusting and understanding your vineyard.
Chad: We are making world class wines with baby fruit, that my friend is an incredible testament to the terroir of WA State. As the
One area I am not working with, and maybe
vines age, the root systems develop and the
some of you are, is the Seven Hills area,
plants start to self-regulate, the wines will
on the south side of the valley above the
become more complex and layered. We will
valley floor. I have tasted several Syrah’s
be able to coax more out of them.
from Seven Hills Vineyard (most notably the L’Ecole 41 Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah) and
Greg: I think vine age is vital. It blows my mind
notice a beautiful red fruit character I don’t
that we are able to make what we do off of
get from any of the other vineyards in the
less than 15 year old vines. The future of Syrah
valley. Why do you think that is?
in Washington is absolutely amazing. Especially when you look at how well Grenache is coming
Chad: Warmer and less rainfall = less hang time
along. It’s a perfect marriage.
= redder fruits and perfume. We see it at Birch Creek on the Oregon side of the valley floor
Trey: Older vines make more intense wines, so
as well.
for me, knowing that we are making the quality of wines we are making now, with vineyards
Justin: This site is more suitable for Bordeaux
under 15 years old, is encouraging! The future
varietals.
is bright! Justin: The golden question!
I think site
location, vine density & clone selection will be
What is the future of Syrah in the Walla Walla Valley?
very important to the continued success of Washington State Syrah’s. Along with our long,
Chad: Syrah will get better and better. It will
Jason Fandrich Interview President & CEO Cuestion Spir its Company, Inc.
by Allison Jacob
What is the difference between Blanco and Silver, Gold and Reposado and what makes an Anejo? That’s a great question because a lot of people get this confused; there is so much misinformation in the market. But generally any 100% agave tequila (we only make 100% agave tequila, there are tequilas that are not 100%) that has not been aged is Blanco, and Blanco means white in Spanish. Some call theirs Silver, or Plata which is Silver in Spanish. Gold on a tequila bottle is a telltale sign that it is not 100% tequila. It is usually 51% tequila, 49% neutral grain spirits or whatever, and then they throw food coloring into it to make it gold. A Reposado is any tequila that is 100% agave that has been aged in a barrel for more than 2 months but not more than 7 months and 29 days. Reposado in Spanish is the past tense of the verb reposar which means to rest. So the literal meaning is a rested tequila, it has been rested in a barrel. Our tequila is rested for 6 ½ months. That is where we find ours to be the best. An Anejo, the word actually means aged or old, and it is any tequila that has been in the barrel for at least a year but not more than 3 years. And the reason they have these age ranges is because of the different climates. Some tequila is aged at higher altitudes, some at different humidity in the warehouses, and there is no way to get a deed verification like Scotch. So that is why there are no age dates on a bottle, only age ranges. And recently the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila) which is the regulatory council in Mexico has designated a 4th varietal of tequila named extraAnejo that is any tequila aged longer than 3 ½ years. How does the taste change with the aging? Aging is the process where the spirit, and in this case tequila, goes in to the barrel. And while it’s in that barrel and the temperature is greater than 60 deg F, and the humidity level is at a certain percentage, the pores in the wood will open up. So the spirits will actually leech into the pores of the wood and then they will go back into the barrel. And they can go through a charcoal barrier that is created by charring the inside of the barrel. Depending on how you cure it, depends on how much flavor and characteristics the spirit picks up from the wood. And what happens is you start to get a really mellow tequila, you will really get a lot of flavor out of the wood with your Reposado and get very flavorful Anejo that I feel can rival any great Scotch. And then the extra-Anejo is really woody, really creamy and some would say buttery. Why is there no age verification on the bottles? Like I said, because of the different aging practices with the different temperature and altitudes; it is the tequila regulatory board that came up with the age ranges. Because Mexico doesn’t have the seasons that other countries have, like the US, in their aging, and for deeds verification. The key is the 55 gallon drums, 1 year of aging including all four seasons. If you take out 2 of those seasons and only have spring and summer, for every one year that passes you get two years aged. So if you take out all 4 seasons and have summer all the way though, for every one year you have 4 years aged. So Mexico says let’s have an age range. What makes Cuestion so smooth? We do something a little different, and that is why we are called Cuestion. When we started the company, my partner, Jose de Jesus Figuroa Dominguez, he questioned how everyone else did it and he wanted to do it better. So the very first thing we did was to acquire and take control of our agave. We own our agave plants. We do not propagate the agave by tissue culture like a lot of other companies do. They have all their plants with the same exact DNA. What we do is cut the suckers off the agave plant, because the agave is a succulent, so it grows suckers, and we cut and replant them.
So each one of our plants has a unique DNA. What that means is, if a disease comes in and attacks the plants if it affects one genotype and not this other. It can wipe out an entire field. We have sustainable growth. After we have grown the agave for 10 years, we hand select each one of our plants, we cut it and roast it to caramelize the sugars in the agave, we get all the sugars out of it. We get the juice and ferment it. We have our own yeast, and after fermentation we distill it twice. Other companies will distill it 3 or 5 times. With our first distillation we make tequila, and we try to extract as much alcohol out of the agave. But on our second distillation is where we change the game. We make sure we discard as much of the methyl alcohol as we possibly can. Now, we have all tasted tequila that made our tongue curl. Tequila has both methyl and ethyl alcohol. Ethyl you want to drink, methyl is what gets you sick. We have the lowest amount of methyl alcohol of any tequila in the world. And we can do that because we take our time with our 2nd distillation. So we discard the methyl tequila, and we collect the ethyl. It comes out at 43% alcohol, which means we are getting a lot more tequila than just alcohol. Then we dilute it 3% and either put it in a bottle or we put it in the barrels. Because of our practices the Mexican government has designated our product as an Ultra-Premium Tequila. Every time we harvest our plants, we re-plant, and we only harvest when we need tequila. Does tequila have a worm? Tequila has never had a worm in it. It is only mescal that has the worm. No one knows why the worm is there; we have gone back and tried to trace it. We have some theories, but there is nothing to explain why the worm is there. All tequila is mescal, but not all mescal is tequila. And there are a couple of reasons for that. Mescal is from any agave. Tequila is a distillate that occurs when you grow and cultivate the Weber blue agave. That agave has to be grown in the state of Jalisco, and 5 small regions. It has to be cultivated, distilled, bottled and aged all in that same region for it to be called tequila.
AROUND THE VINE
What makes tequila unique? Tequila is unique because if takes on such a great form in its pure state Blanco, then you start to create really 3 different products with the Reposado, Anejo, and extra-Anejo. It is the purest spirit in the world. It is from a single source, the Blue Weber agave. The better you grow it, the better you distill it, the better it tastes. With other spirits you are not sure what they have made it with or blended it with. Why did you decide to use Jack Daniel barrels in the aging process? Jack Daniels dumps more barrels than any whisky company in the world. There is a law that says if you’re going to be a Tennessee whiskey you may only use the barrel one time. So they have all these surplus barrels out there. And I grew up only 15 minutes from Lynchburg. I grew up on Highway 64 in Belvedere. I used to ride my bike there as a kid and I have a lot of family from Lynchburg. My grandfather was born there, my grandmother was raised there. So I thought if I’m going to headquarter a tequila company in Nashville, even though we make it in Mexico, in what way can we make it the most Tennessee tequila in the world? And the answer was that we only use barrels that were once used to age Jack Daniels. And as much Jack Daniels that is sold out there, if somebody feels like they get a hint of the flavor that comes from the barrel, well good for us! Because it’s already proven that it’s a good taste. There are other spirits companies that use Jack Daniels barrels and other tequila companies too. But we maintain that we exclusively use the Jack Daniels barrels. So in 2010 and 2011 you have experienced pretty tremendous exciting growth. Where do you envision Cuestion in the next year? Well I hope we are headed to national distribution. Being an independent company is one of the most difficult things in the world because I can’t call our distributors and say – hey, I’ve got another brand, we want you to take it too. And it just happens. I have to go in and sell this tequila to every single distributor and that’s 50+ distributors nationwide. So in 2011 we launched in Nashville, then in Chattanooga. Then in July we launched in Knoxville and Memphis. Then in September we launched in Tampa. This year we have reorganized our sales force so that in 2012 we will be launching in 15 to 16 states by the end of the year. And I got an offer to go to Russia, went over there, and got the word last week they have accepted us. So we will launch Cuestion in Russia in a couple of months. What is your best Cuestion moment – which you’re the most proud of? It was when I first started with Cuestion and I would talk to different bar owners or liquor store owners and I would see people take a sip of our tequila – and see their eyes light up and say I have never liked tequila before. One of the very first days I went out to sell, and went to a liquor store, and the owner said I don’t drink tequila. I said, that’s fine, let me tell you a little bit about it, and maybe you want to smell it? All his employees tasted it, and then he smelled it, and then he tasted it, and tasted it again, and said I never liked tequila before, but I can drink this. So now I tell people, it’s not that you don’t like tequila; it’s that you don’t like bad tequila! And we make good tequila. If people will give us a fair shake, and taste our tequila, they will come to the realization that we make one of the best tequilas in the world.
The Grove Grill
4550 Poplar avenue, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
CHATEAU GRAVILLE-LACOSTE, GRAVES BLANC, BORDEAUX 2010 PAIRED WITH ROASTED QUAIL, WHITE CORN SUCCOTASH, LOCAL FIELD PEAS, AND NEWMAN FARMS PORK BELLY This lovely white is blended primarily from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, with traces of Muscadelle. The terroir yields a distinct flinty minerality which pairs suitably with the equally unique South Texas Bandera Quail from Broken Arrow Ranch.
SHAFER, “RELENTLESS”, NAPA VALLEY 2008 PAIRED WITH WOOD GRILLED DOUBLE LAMB CHOP, FAVA BEANS AND ROSEMARY SPIKED DEMI-GLACE Relentless, a bold blend of Syrah and Petite Sirah is a great match with our garlic and sage crusted New Zealand lamb chop. The smoky barbecue aroma and deep fruit notes blend wonderfully with the perfectly prepared lamb off the wood burning grill.
PRICHARD’S CHOCOLATE OLD FASHIONED WITH MASON JAR DESSERTS: BUTTERMILK CHESS, WALNUT APPLE CRUMB AND PECAN PIE These three“Mason Jar Minis” are just right to end a great meal with just a little sweetness. Our custom made Old Fashioned features Prichard’s Double Chocolate Bourbon Whiskey from Kelso, TN. The subtle combination of cacao and muddled fruit is the perfect complement to any dessert.
AROUND THE VINE
The Case of Good
Hope, such a fitting word to describe the struggle of wine in South Africa. The industry has been a phoenix of sorts, battling in the late 19th century to protect its’ continued adoration in Britain, overcoming the death blow usually thrown by phylloxera, or finding the catalyst for change against the tyrannical farm lobby that all but destroyed the wines of South Africa. The ashes have nourished the weak, and fed the fire for the global demand of affordable quality. South Africans have the spirit of fight in them, history proves this to be true and it is no surprise that unwillingness to quit is carried over to the vine. The years of political unrest and global boycott have restricted the historical essence of South Africa’s wine industry, but in reality have given birth to a young generation but, with years of knowledge and experience. That experience has been developed over a century and a half of oppression when wine is discussed, first falling under the spell of British rule and a demand for sweet, cloying, honeyed wines and brandies cheaply produced. Though forced labor provided low cost product, the expense of transport made the resulting cost sit uneasy with the end consumer and a substitute was found much closer to home. In the early 20th century in an “effort” to capitalize and reintroduce the world to the beauty of South Africa, a large farm lobby was created. Known as the Koperatiewe Wijnbowers Vereniging (KWV) they set forth guidelines in turn with the AOCs and DOCs of France and Italy respectively. The trouble was, corruption and greed skewed these regulations and soon they became a shell of the original intention. Mass production of low cost, high yield juice tarnished the name of South Africa wine. Ironically, the turning point was when a global boycott ensued, due to civil unrest and political corruption being presented by the media. The diminishing flow of revenue no longer enticed the officials in charge of the KWV and slowly it disbanded. The end of the KWV came only recently in the late 1970s, effectively giving South Africa one of the oldest, newest wine producing areas in the world. Wine makers adapted and developed a new system of designation, continuing to take cues from Europe they produced a system like the AOC but with closer resemblance to the American AVA system. Wines are listed as WOs or Wines of Origin, and are mapped geographically, while site specific vineyards are referred to by the moniker “Wards”; the idea being closely related to the terroir influence of Burgundy. The actual laws and restrictions are quite vague, but this is born from the endurance of the years of oppression, not just to the lax American system. They choose to label by varietal, which is by grape, as opposed to regionally. The freedom offered by South Africa’s designation system is quite vast, and goes as far as to allow up to a 25% inclusion of juice from the previous or the following vintage. Most of the world views this practice as abusive; however, in South Africa it works, maybe because the winemakers truly use the freedom to make good wine instead of a dollar. In time, it can be certain the laws will tighten and restrictions will be implemented to protect the nature of the designations. Today’s growth of South African exports has been slowed slightly due to economic times, same as the rest of the world, but the resilient group of producers refuses to diminish quality. The wines produced are getting better each year, and as they gain momentum the sky seems to be the limit. Red wines have been the top of the order, Syrah taking a staggering lead, though sometimes using the Australian label of Shiraz, the wines still possess a certain uniqueness to them as is true of Syrah in general. Here the grape seems to take from directly centered between classic elements identified with the Rhone, and more new world aspects reminiscence of Washington state fruit. White grapes far outnumber red in terms of acreage under vine, Chenin Blanc, locally
known as Steen, is the frontrunner ranging in style from austere, sharp, young creations to more off-dry offerings that would be at home in the Loire Valley. The versatility of Chenin can be seen in the honeyed dessert wines of Constantia, where luxury and depth can rival the best in the world. Almost all of the other major players, grape wise, are represented in some form or fashion, Cabernet has gained some traction from mid-range producers while Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are seeing wild success. South Africa cannot be discussed without the mention of Pinotage, a cross between Cinsault and Pinot Noir, and unseen outside of South Africa. Pinotage is the bastard child of South Africa, though not completely indicative of traditional wine culture in the area, it has played an important role. Pinotage can range from Bret infested, barnyard stricken, funkiness more likened to an impressionist painter; all the way to moderately price ranged examples of well integrated bell pepper and mushrooms, with a note of hot leather. The distinct climate differential from costal coolness to the extreme heat of areas further inland offer an ever expansive range of flavors and options; as the world continues to explore this area of wine production that selection will grow. Couple the easy to understand labeling, and loose regulations for production, and a resolute desire to better the wine and we are sure to see an escalation in quality and steady pricing for a few years to come.
WINES TO TRY:
Hamilton Russell, Chardonnay, Walker Bay 2010 Deep gold, full bodied with a nose of peach, pear, apple, caramel, butterscotch, toast and vanilla. The mouth has papaya fruits, lemon curd, and sweet lime. Decent integration already, dry, sweet on the palate with terrific length. Spice Route, Chakalaka, Swartland 2009 Spicy with some nice lift to the assorted red and darker red fruits there is an interesting savory component that compliments the fruit perfectly. The interplay between the wines savory component and the wines sweet plum and dark cherry fruit makes for a perfect barbeque wine. Mulderbosch, Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon, Costal Region 2011 A beautiful pink with orange tint, the wine has wonderful tangerine and strawberry aromas, with a soft grapefruit and raspberry midpalate with a lively acid to finish.
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Alchemy
940 S Cooper Memphis TN (901) 726-4444 AlchemyMemphis.com
Price Range $
Corkage Fee
Cuisine Style
Bert Smythe
64
32
5.5-13 glass, 22-60 bottle
$15
American Small Plates
Andrew Fischer
52
42
7.5-15 glass 28-99 bottle
$10
Italian
Andrew Ticer, Michael Hudman
55
31
50 bottle
$10
Fresh perspective on traditional Italian
N/A
37
14
50 bottle
$10
Globally inspired with southern flair
Rebecca Severs
100
30
38 bottle
$15
Southeastern Italian primarily from Puglia
Glenn Hays
43
18
24-42 bottle
$10
Bistro with a mix of French, Italian, New Orleans/Caribbean
Ed Parramore
47
39
9 glass
none
Italian
Jay Turney
125
30
9-18 glass 40-65 bottle
$15
French Global
Alex Grisanti
57
27
6-11 glass 32-150 bottle
$20
Northern Italian with a modern twist
John Condy
187
46
36-669 bottle
$10
French Continental
Aubri Luckey
200
100+
6.50-24 glass 26-325 bottle
$20
Prime Steakhouse & Seafood
Carlos Sejas
300+
50
10 glass
$18
USDA Prime Steaks, chops, and fresh seafood
Terry Allen
100+
50
28-200 bottle
$10
Southern American and European Cuisines
Amerigo
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen 83 South 2nd Street, Memphis TN (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com
Automatic Slims
243 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN (901) 525-7948 www.AutomaticSlimsMemphis.com
Bari Ristorante
22 S Cooper, Memphis TN (901) 722-2244 www.BariMemphis.com
Cafe 1912
243 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com
Carrabba’s Italian Grill
5110 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 685-9900 www.Carrabbas.com
Circa by John Bragg
6150 Poplar Avenue, Mempis, TN (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com
Elfo’s Restaurant
2285 S Germantown Rd, Germantown, TN (901) 753-4017 www.ElfosRestaurant.com
Erling Jensen
1044 South Yates Road, Memphis, TN (901) 763-3700 www.EJensen.com
Fleming’s Steakhouse
6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/ Memphis
Folks Folly Prime Steakhouse 551 South Mendenhall Road, Memphis TN (901) 762-8200 www.FolksFolly.com
The Grove Grill
4550 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Price Range $
Corkage Fee
Interim Restaurant and Bar
5040 Sanderlin, Memphis, TN (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com
Cuisine Style
$15
New American with emphasis on fresh fish and local produce and products
Michael Luckey
93
40
7.5-16 glass 30-215 bottle
Ronnie Powell
46
28
9 glass
$12
Authentic Greek / Steaks and Seafood
James Taras
60
32
24-125 bottle
$15
American / Greek
Bill Baker
over 100
40
7 glass
$15
Fine Causal / Bistro
Bert Smythe
90
34
37 bottle 8 glass
$15
Contemporary with Southern Influence
Rusty Prudhon
145
18
28-165 bottle
$15
American
Beata Sulecka
92
17
24 and up bottle 9 glass
$15
Continental and French
Jeff Frisby
127
42
26-280 bottle
$17
French Creole with an emphasis on local
Collene DePete
80
20
28 and up bottle
$20
American French Bistro
Kevin Johnson
277
40
32-399 bottle 8-29 glass
$15
Classic American Steakhouse
N/A
20
20
7-10 glass
$15
New American
Chris Johnson/ Scott Gentleman
38
26
7-12 glass 26-105 bottle
$8
Low country
Jim’s Place Restaurant and Bar 518 Perkins Road Extended, Memphis TN (901) 766-2030 www.JimsPlaceMemphis.com
Jim’s Place Grille
3660 S. Houston Levee Road, Collierville, TN (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com
Le Chardonnay Wine Bar & Bistro Restaurant
2094 Madison Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 725-1375 www.LaChardonnayRestaurant.com
McEwen’s
120 Monroe Ave, Memphis TN (901) 527-7085 www.McewensOnMonroe.com
Napa Cafe
5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com
Paulette’s
50 Harbor Town Square Memphis, TN (901) 260-3300 www.RiverInnMemphis.com
Restaurant Iris
2146 Monroe Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 590-2828 www.RestaurantIris.com
River Oaks Restaurant
5871 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 683-9305 www.RiverOaksRestaurant.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com
South of Beale
361 South Main, Memphis TN (901) 526-0388 www.SouthofBeale.com
Sweet Grass
937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com
SIDE BAR “Wine is made to be drunk as women are made to be loved; profit by the freshness of youth or the splendor of maturity: do not await decrepitude.” -Theophile Malvezin All things wine related but that don’t involve pouring juice into the glass, these make me feel better the next day…
SIDE BAR
What to Drink While Smoking?
This whole issue is chock full of BBQ recipes and pairings with the dish itself, but what happens during the 24 or so hours it truly takes to bring to life a delicious BBQ? What does one sip when manning the smoker? Well a good clean American Lager is the choice most lean too, and don’t rule out a slightly bitter Pale Ale. Watch the hops go down nice and smooth in the presence of good company and allow the beer to wash the day away. You could always get into a nice glass of Islay or Highland Scotch, the peat, tobacco, and smoke seem a natural fit for the deep wood chip scented air and the bite will cure mouth-watering while waiting for the first taste of juicy fall-off-the-bone meat. Any good quality Bourbon will carry a soft sweetness under the oaky overtones adding a unique experience when on the rocks and you could lighten it up a touch with some water. Both of the previous blended into cocktail form will add the dash of spirit to any conversation, and the best part of those drinks…their good and manly. Wine is another choice, a deep core of fruit from a Washington Merlot or the bacon accents and graphite smoke from Rhone Valley Syrah; it happens in Walla Walla as well, but also has a pretty olive and blueberry nose in addition. It has nothing to do with BBQ but if it’s hot out grab a good bottle of Alsace Riesling, the fruit and well integrated residual sugar are high temp killers. The beauty of summer is there’s time, there are hours of daylight. Even though the months seem to fly by, the days seem to drag on in a good way. So if you have cranked up the smoker or just fired up the grill for a quick burger or steak; take inventory of the fridge and closet, pick something to fit the mood and menu and start relaxing.
SIDE BAR
The Kitchen by Chris Thorn
Infusing spirits is one of the simplest ways to create dynamic cocktails and offers a wide range of flavoring for different liquors. Results end up best when a good quality spirit is picked to start, vodka and light rums are generally all around good selections; gin and whiskey’s can be used but care must be taken to ensure the flavors line up. Look for spirits with a clean taste and few impurities. You can actually use a water filtration pitcher to “clean up” lesser vodkas! Use an airtight jar that has been thoroughly cleaned and place the item you are using to infuse, cherries, lemon/lime, fruits, spices, vanilla and even garlic and candy can be used to flavor select spirits, be creative! (Stay away from fatty items; see next section on fat washing) Pour in enough Spirit to cover base and seal. It really is that simple; “cooking” times can vary from 2-5 days to 2-3 weeks depending on the strength of flavor. Taste often and when desired infusion is reached, strain off liquid. Coffee filters can help with removing small bits of fruits, but they can also be left in the final product.
Fat Washing
is a way of infusing some type or animal or vegetable fat with a spirit. The idea is to retain some flavor and essence of the fat but not to carry over the oily texture and opaque coloring. Begin with the desired spirit, to infuse, set at room temperature; use something similar to a mason jar, not too wide open but the vessel must have an opening big enough to remove the fat later. Melt the desired fat in a pan, bacon, butter, various oils and nuts are all good starters. Strain the fat to remove any grit or unwanted pieces that may interfere with the process. Pour the melted and strained fat on top of the spirit and refrigerate. After some time the fat will congeal and rise to the top for simple skimming, much like making a stock. The resulting spirit may need to run through a strainer to remove the last loose bits but, generally will be ready to use and now has a back tone of the infusion and has maintained its original integrity.
Syrups
are non-alcoholic sugar based add-ins for cocktails. Simple Syrup is the most basic form, a mixture of one part sugar, one part water. The sugar and water are
The Bar
heated until dissolved, the syrup is shocked (poured into a container set in ice) to cool and maintain clarity. Simple syrup is used as a sweetening agent for many cocktails, with the sugar being pre-dissolved it integrates better and the added viscosity helps it to blend well. Versions of syrup are simple and easy to make, start with the simple syrup recipe and add to it during the heating process, fruits can be used but will lose some of their freshness. Vanilla and flower petals are classic syrups, as it using sugar variations: brown sugar, pure cane, or honey even. Syrups have a decent shelf life as long as they are kept in a cooler or refrigerator. Back to the fruit syrups, if the freshness and purity of summer strawberries or the like is what you seek to capture then here’s another recipe
• 1 cup of fresh strawberries hulled and quartered (other fruit can substituted freely) • 1 cup of Sugar • ¾ cup of red wine vinegar or cider vinegar Using a bowl big enough for fruit plus some extra room, mix sugar and fruit together until covered. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for anywhere from 6-8 to 2 days. As the fruit macerates in the sugar, natural syrup will form in the bowl, the longer it sits the more volume you get. Strain juice and sugar from bowl (there will be residual sugar in the bowl, you want it) and add vinegar, whisk to combine and seal tightly in bottle for future use. Immediately the syrup, called a shrub, will seem funky and unbalanced but after a day or two the flavors will harmonize and the remnants of sugar will dissolve creating an amazing mixer that actually gets better with age.
Making Bitters is the last step to ultimate cocktail dorkiness, and though rewarding, is fairly time consuming. Internet sites and 19th century cocktail books are littered with bitters recipes and various ways to create them, researching these is always a good start but everyone who has ever made bitters knows one thing, almost all of those recipes fail. First let’s discuss what the idea of bitters truly is. Bitters are a way to add a VERY small amount of HIGHLY concentrated flavor to a libation. Bitters consist of three
parts; the bittering agent, the actual flavor, and the base. Bittering agents are used to actually introduce bitterness and are the key to balancing the concentrated flavors,
classically quassia, and wormwood are used. The flavor is what you seek for the basic taste and aromatic quality, these are generally simple like a lemon or orange, but can be as complex as the propriety blends used by Peychaud’s or Angostura’s. When selecting the base for flavor simple is usually best, but if you want something more complex be 110% sure the flavors taste good together. When selecting a base spirit, be careful and be picky, try to use something about 100 proof (50% ABV). I would not use anything higher unless utilizing Pure Grain Alcohol to extract very delicate flavors, but that is a different story. Vodka is best for softer lighter flavors; lemon, ginger, herbal bitters; while Bourbon can be good for darker bitters centered on seed, root, and spices. The trick to getting good, balanced bitters is in how you create the infusion; different items infuse at different time rates, and the best homemade bitters exploit this idea. Instead of putting all ingredients into one jar and waiting, which causes some flavors to overpower others and even themselves at times, infuse each flavor separately and then “assemble” them to create the final blend. Not only do you have more control over the ending taste, but usually there is enough left over to make a completely different blend. After assemblage, cut bitters down with water to achieve the final product, a good rule of thumb here is ½ part water. •
Poolside Vino As the sweltering heat of summer sets in and inevitably continues well into the fall, we will all be seeking shelter and comfort in the refreshing cool waters of the good ole fashioned pool. Whether floating, basking or entertaining, reinvigorating the body with a steady stream of water is a necessity; but where is the fun in that? We are after all adults and are entitled to a little something called imbibing. The classic beer and cocktail have their own places cemented in poolside enjoyment, but make way, wine is quickly closing territory as a summer staple. Wine’s ABV is lower than booze, making it friendlier over the course of the day and the flexibility wine offers’ has put beer on ice. Changing styles have presented a plethora of different options for consumption to tame the inferno that is a Memphis summer.
Rose: Can’t stress enough how under-valued this is for any occasion. The chillable nature of this more fruit driven, structured wine makes it literally the perfect go-to for any poolside endeavor. Try South American examples for more body and Provencal selections if you desire a softer approach. Across the globe they are made into more and more varying styles. Beaujolais: Vibrant fruit and the almost total lack of tannin make this another great option for warm weather drinking. Take into account the fun style of some wines from this region and that they respond well to a slight chill will make your sunbathing all the more enjoyable. Cava: Spanish bubbles, but never too bubbly and always with a refreshing edge. Stylistically sweeter than champagne and other Cremants but not usually with as much residual sugar as Prosecco and offering a deeper nose and more effervescence. Sangria: not really pushing the ready-made cocktail version here but more the made-at-home-my-way style. Base wines can be either red or white and for red, Rioja is the typical starter. Infuse with fruit, sugar, and fortify with a brandy or other spirit. Wait. Enjoy
Red Sangria 2 bottles true Rioja can be found in the $10-12 range
½ cup blueberries or raspberries
3-4 tbsp sugar
1 lime sliced
1 orange sliced
5-6 oz of white rum or 3-4 oz of good gin
2-3 white peaches cubed
Optional: 1tsp cinnamon
Interim Restaurant and Bar
5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Chardonnay, Trefethen, Oak Knoll District 2010 paired with Beef Tartar Trefethen Chardonnay has a long time reputation for excellence beginning back in 1979, when the 1976 Chardonnay was named “Best Chardonnay in the World” at the Gault Millau World Wine Olympics in France. The trend still continues today with this beautifully aromatic 2010 vintage. From the Oak Knoll District, located within the Napa Valley AVA at the southern end of the valley floor, Trefethen Chardonnay highlights tropical and floral aromas with a hint of almond. This Chardonnay has a many food friendly wine characteristics including balanced acidity and a stony minerality. This richly balanced wine, expressing flavors of apple pie and lemon zest, pairs well with our beef tartar appetizer. Raw tenderloin with capers and dijon mustard topped with a quail egg is a great way to start your meal at Interim.
Sauvignon Blanc, Twomey Cellars by Silver Oak, Napa Valley 2010 paired with Pan Seared Flounder Quality wine with an emphasis on using sustainable estate grown fruit has been a calling card for Silver Oak Cellars for decades. It is no surprise that the current sauvignon blanc offering by Twomey Cellars is sourced from two eco friendly sites in Napa Valley. Interim has long been at the forefront of local/sustainable practices using local farmers and artisans. It’s a natural fit for Chef Jackson Kramer’s cuisine to be enjoyed with wine that is as equally environmentally conscience. The pan seared flounder served with asparagus, cauliflower and fingerling potatoes pairs well with the dynamic nose of honeydew melon, citrus hints, guava, custard apple and pie crust that this sauvignon blanc expresses.
Throwing
SIDE BAR
the First Punch Sometimes, when you’re hosting a large party the last thing you want is to be stuck behind the bar mixing drinks. This not only takes a good bit of the fun out of the party for you, but it also takes you away from conversing with guests. You could always recruit or hire a bartender to take care of the drink orders, however, that could end up costing you quite a bit for time and liquor, so another alternative is to serve a punch. It’s the perfect solution to easily serve large groups. A punch is a great way to serve a group of party guests with little effort and there are many great punch recipes available. But what happens if you want to take one of your favorite cocktails and transform it into a spectacular bowl of punch? The answer is simple; you just need to do a little math; multiplying desired servings by standard proportions and tasting to adjust. Classically a punch is defined as a cocktail with five or more ingredients, and historical examples include Planters Punch and Pilgrims punch and the insane Long Island Tea. These are normally served as single serving beverages but can easily be converted for party use. Party Punch recipes are floating online everywhere and make a great base for playing around, consider adding herbs and fresh fruit for appearance and layers of flavor.
The Step by Step: • The first thing you must consider is which cocktails will work as a punch. Your heavy spirit cocktails like the Martini and Manhattan simply will not work - they are best left to a single drink because they will lose all of their appeal in a punch bowl and become flat and are way too intoxicating. Also, drinks that require special techniques such as muddling or layering don’t make a very good punch. • Cocktails that make good punches are those with fruit juices, wines, and sodas, or, in other words, cocktails with more nonalcoholic ingredients than liquor. • The next part of the cocktail to punch equation is to determine the number of servings you will need. Are you entertaining a group of 25 or 50 people or hosting a small brunch of 5 or 6? Will there be other beverages offered? How long does the party last? • It is usually safe to assume that each person will drink 2-3 servings in a 2-3 hour time period. By using this average you take into account those who will not drink any of the punch, those who have just one drink, and those who drink more. It all usually balances out and often you will find that you’ll either have just enough punch or a little left over. • Once you have estimated the number of servings you need it is time to do a little math. Simple multiplication is all that is needed: Multiply the quantity of each ingredient needed for a single cocktail by the number of servings. • The last thing to take into account is ice melt. You can usually get away with a little less punch than your math in step 3 came up with because your ice will melt and add liquid to the mix.
A few hints to get you going: 1. The average bottle of liquor is 750ml, which is equivalent to about 25 ounces. A 1-liter bottle is about 34 ounces.
2. For large parties make enough punch in advance. Fill your punch bowl to capacity and store the remainder in pitchers in the refrigerator without ice for a quick refill. 3. The exception to mixing punch in advance is anything with carbonation. Add your sodas, champagne and the like to the punch bowl directly on top of the base punch. This will keep the bubbles fresh. 4. Always trust your judgment. Converting cocktails to large batches is not a science and it is best to do taste tests throughout the punch making process, especially when it comes to flavor enhancers like lime juice, bitters, syrups and the like.
Photography & Videography
Ande Demetriou is the exclusive photographer for Cork It magazine
901-213-7890 ande@geminimm.com
from the
WAITERS STATION Server’s share their peeves on customers wine orders
Seriously, who still serves “House Reds”? ~David
A martini is Gin and a healthy dose of Vermouth, what you ordered is a double shot of vodka shaken and served up ~Grace
“In Loving Memory” No, I cannot make the “Billy Jo Bartender special from XYZ in Nashville” but what color was it? ~Sara
The “sniffing” of the cork is actually the practice of examining the cork to check the authenticity of the bottle in very past years, it is now completely outdated with very few exceptions. ~Jake
Memphis lost an angel earlier this year in the passing of Foie Gras is the artificially enlarged liver of a goose or duck, Sweetbreads are the Thymus gland from a cow…there I said it ~Keith
Patti Jensen; a welcoming, warm-natured woman with an always smiling face. Best known for her years inside the Memphis Restaurant scene and as the wife of local chef Erling Jensen, her ideas of hospitality and her genuine person continue to go unmatched. Patti’s light hearted smile will be forever ingrained in the minds and hearts of anyone who was lucky enough to meet her.
YOUR glass is on the right…I promise ~Leigh
Redefining Dining Again By Erling Jensen, The Restaurant
F
front of the house, but her extensive experience as a chef, both in
benchmark for fine dining in Memphis. An embraced blend
the restaurant and in the private sector, makes her the absolutely
of form, fit, and function; serving luxurious food based in formal
perfect liaison between the rising bar of cuisine and service.
technique. Portions are larger than life, service is old school, they
Speaking of food, Fortunato Oliva, lovingly known as Nate, has risen
know what you want before you do and are putting it on the table
to the occasion and filled the Chef de Cuisine position here. He has
before you can ask. Customers have never existed at Erlings; people
been a long time member of the Erling Jensen kitchen brigade, and
walk through the door and are greeted as friends. The atmosphere
EJs concept of food flows in Nate’s blood, but Nate also presents
is warm and relaxed. The lack of pretention is a long deserved treat
some youthful freshness, able to expound the ideals of classic
for Memphians looking to enjoy good food with good company
technique with his background in Japanese cuisine and his own
without hassle. Here at EJs there is no hassle, welcome home.
Italian heritage. The menu has seen some modernization with the
Erling opened his doors back in 1996, choosing to go against the
infusion of Nate’s style but largely maintains the same traditional feel
grain and provide customers high end food their way. If you want
guests are used too.
or 15 years Erling Jensen, The Restaurant has been the ultimate
it at EJs you’re going to get it. Erling’s flexibility with his menu, his generosity with the food and the presentation of the entire package,
The bar and patio have been the first course of evolution, the Bar
meant you didn’t just become a repeat customer; you become a
has received a rotating menu of small plates, and a brand new
friend for life.
energy of sorts. The seeming focus of the crew is revitalization, not so much that the wind has left the sails, but more of a pre-emptive strike
Erling has always been an innovator of Memphis cuisine, serving
at stagnancy. The belief is that without pushing the envelope, you
things no one else would, elk, antelope, and various other game
quickly become irrelevant. There is a new sense of the future when
meats that are staples at EJs but one thing was always missing until
you walk through the doors, things appear the same, but there is
recently, a bar. Erling wanted the focus on the guest, the attention
that inherent spirit, a “je ne sais quoi” if you will. When asked what the
on the food and never saw a need for a bar until now. His ideas
team at EJs has in mind for the future, Jennifer shares some basics,
of progression for the restaurant are not rooted in some plan to
“We aren’t refocusing on the details like everyone else, the details
promote growth and make millions of dollars. Erling sees and listens
are something we have always done correctly, we are putting
to the guest. The addition of the bar was not to generate revenue
energy back into the experience; a little something newer, without
or stall customers for a quick sip before dining, the idea is simple: an
losing class.” She is however, tight lipped about what to expect as
expansion of the mentality that is EJs; A place of good food and
things come to fruition, simply smiling and making vague gestures.
good company. The constant theme that sets the tone every day, long before service begins.
I wonder if we will see a more vibrant side of EJ? Something to compliment the classic sexiness that is exuded by the bar and patio,
Now fast forward to today, Erling Jensen is still evolving. He has had
perhaps something more sleek or hip? I cannot possibly image the
years to develop his concept and build a solid team of people
crew over here becoming more flexible, or friendly. It is very possible
to grow them, and now more than ever Erling is ready to let those
that the influx of youth and talent may provide the drive and
people shine. Many of the names you know, John Condy has fielded
required knowledge base to sustain the forward thinking and high
beverage inquiries as the wine director for a few years now, but long
standard set forth by Erling himself, but what will the future actually
before that he was building relationships and friendships from the
hold? At Erlings anything goes…
floor. Jennifer Dickerson has only recently flexed her talents in the
TASTING NOTES “Fill up, Fill up, for wisdom calls when e’er we let the wine rest. Here’s death to prohibitions fools, and every kind of vine pest” -Jamrach Holobom Various styles and offerings tasted blind by our panel of trained and amateur tasters both, all printed wines meet a rigorous quality price ratio requirement to ensure any selection is going to be tasty.
TASTING NOTES
WINES TO WATCH Fredrick Keopple
Allison Jacob
Elicio, Blend, Vin de Pays, France 2010
Austin Hope, “Troublemaker”, Blend, Paso Robles NV
Gustave Lorentz, Pinot Gris, Alsace 2009
Castle Rock, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2010
Schloss Vollrads, Riesling, Rhiengau 2010
Amalaya, Blend, Valle Calchaqui 2009
Frisk, “Prickly”, Riesling, Victoria 2010
Gotham, Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2009
Fess Parker, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2008
Elk Cove, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2009
Domaine de Catherine Le Goeuil, Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009
Michael David. “Incognito”, Blend, Lodi 2009
San Huberto, Malbec, Argentina 2010
Star Lane Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, happy Canyon 2009
LaMadrid, Malbec, Argentina 2008
Frontera, Moscato, Chile 2011
Stalking Horse, Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2008
Napa Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2010
Manos Negras, Malbec, Mendoza 2007
San Huberto, Chardonnay, Argentina 2010
Chris Thorn
John Vego
Champalou, Cremant de Vouvray, Brut NV
Chateau Moncontour, “Tete de Cuvee”, Cremant de Vouvray NV
Civello, Blend, California 2010
Marques de Caceres, “Deusa Nai”, Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2010
Ramon Bilbao, Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2011
Brancott Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2010
Chateau Suau, Bordeaux Rose 2011
Ensemble, Blend, California 2010
Louis Tete, “Le Pot”, Beaujolais Villages 2010
Firestone, Riesling, Santa Ynez Valley 2010
Filon, Granacha, Calatayud 2010
Three Thieves, “The Show”, Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley 2010
Twomey, Merlot, Napa 2007
Catalpa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tupungato Valle de Uco 2008
Stepping Stone, Cabernet Franc, Napa 2008
Marziano Abbona, “Brico Barone”, Nebbiolo d’ Alba 2009
Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Shiraz-Viognier, Victoria 2009
John Condy Terry Allen
Uppercut, Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast 2010
Gotham, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley 2008
Pierre Sparr, “Alsace One”, Blend, Alsace 2010
Ferrari-Carano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2009
Vina Leyda, Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley 2011
Milbrandt Estates, Merlot, Wahluke Slope 2009
Girard, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009
Jargon, Pinot Noir, California 2010
Domaine Diochon, Moulin-a-Vent 2010
Balius, Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands 2009
Domaine Coudoulis, Lirac 2009
Red diamond, Shiraz, Washington 2008
Folie a Deux, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2009
Castello Monaci, “Acante”, Fiano, Salento 2010
Hahn, Meritage, Central Coast 2009
Folie A Duex, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010
Three Thieves, “The Show”, Malbec, Mendoza 2010
Zonin, “Solletico”, Prosecco 2010
Cousino-Macul, Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2010
FIND THE WINE PRICE RANGE = $15 or less = $16 to $20
= $21 to $30 = $31 or more
San Huberto, Chardonnay, Argentina 2010 Light yellow color; tart pear, citrus nose; Granny smith apple, citrus palate, hint of steel; short-medium finish. Napa Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2010 Aromas of grapefruit, kiwi, and orange. Very fruit forward; tropical flavors. Crisp, refreshing, round, finishing with a hint of lime. Frontera, Moscato, Chile 2011 Bright in color with golden notes. Offers a fresh fruit nose with flowers and hints of honey. Fresh, lightly sweet, with slight acidity and good persistence. Star Lane Vineyard, Sauvignon Blanc, Happy Canyon 2009 Abundance of steel. Aromas of thyme, wild berries. flavors of wood lots, rich lemon curd and lemon drop.
Allison Jacob Publisher, Cork IT
Michael David. “Incognito”, Blend, Lodi 2009 Crammed with fruit this wine has aromatics of honey, citrus, and apricots. This full bodied wine is pure without any hint of oak.
Elk Cove, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2009 Bright red. Strawberry and raspberry on the scented nose. Light-bodied and lively, with tangy red fruit flavors that could use a bit more punch. Finishes clean and brisk. Gotham, Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale 2009 Deep garnet-purple color and incredibly fragrant. Blackberry and blackcurrant scents with notes of spice and a bit of mint. Crisp acidity and medium tannins coupled with full bodied, lush fruit flavors mid-palate lead into a luscious finish. Amalaya, Blend, Valle Calchaqui 2009 Strawberries, raspberries and ripe fruit with touch of pepper and spices. Flavors of red fruit, spice and hints of vanilla (from aging in French oak). Soft tannins lead to a delicate, lingering finish. Castle Rock, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2010 Dark purple. Expressive aromas of black cherry and spice. Earthy, full bodied, classic cab, with an intense core. Long, lingering finish of vanilla and spice. Austin Hope, “Troublemaker”, Blend, Paso Robles NV Intense black cherry and anise flavors make way to reveal amazing depth, rich in texture and also has hints of chocolate and fresh leather.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Champalou, Cremant de Vouvray, Brut NV Austerely dry and with moderate bubble, white roses and lavender expressed in the tight nose initially, opens to a bit of fruit after a while. Tastes like lemon zest with hints of orange. Wonderfully crisp with good presence and balance.
Photography by Ande Demetriou
TASTING NOTES
Civello, Blend, California 2010 Alternating layers of fruit and minerals, ranging from tropical banana and honey flower to flint, citrus, and distinct floral note. There is an initial roundness and inherent acid, but the acidity fades through a dynamic finish, changing very quickly. Good on its own but a wonderful base for white sangria.
Chris Thorn
Sommelier, Cork IT
Ramon Bilbao, Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2011 Clean but without a dominating aspect. Decent amount of classic citrus and a sweetness similar to young peaches. There is a blood orange essence as the wine closes around a lime, stone, and oily textured finish.
Chateau Suau, Bordeaux Rose 2011 Expressive notes of red summer fruits, lively raspberry and strawberry rum, balanced entry with refreshing acids and good fruit medley. Richer textured rose but discernibly young. Louis Tete, “Le Pot”, Beaujolais Villages 2010 Good balance of fruit, baby strawberries and black cherry but with a subtle sweetness. Almost no tannin but a surprising soft acid in the middle, slightly short finish but would sing alongside food. Filon, Granacha, Calatayud 2010 Tight nose but can literally smell the acid, cherry and a little pop of anise, the mouth opens up into layers of cherry with a smoky cola feeling, there is a pleasant minerality of the graphite, licorice and oak as the wine rounds out, not super expressive yet but with immense potential. Twomey, Merlot, Napa 2007 Seriously smells like Starbucks and melting chocolate while cooking blueberry and currant cobbler. There is a noticeable aroma of green, but very faint. The palate is significantly more layered, offering mocha and fresh coffee hints around a huge core of currant and wild berries, the wine is elegantly soft and has a sense of structure but the frame work is very well hidden among the acid and flowing flavors, the finish is brisk and short but memorable. Stepping Stone, Cabernet Franc, Napa 2008 Nose has hints of bell pepper and olive but more green olive than black, there is a smokiness but I wouldn’t attribute it to the oak. Much bigger in the mouth than expected, full body and sour cherries up front but immediately moves into big fruit with abundant tannin in the end, oak is played throughout but well integrated. Acid rears its head as the finish begins and brings soft spice to round out the end. Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier, Shiraz-Viognier, Victoria 2009 Smells of melted fat and crispy bacon, with notes of tar and a soft evergreen. Opens out to blueberries and macerated raspberries, but with a strong woody smoke backdrop that allows fruit to show. The elegance grows as it sits open allowing the fruit to become seamless into the finish of bitter coco and currant. There is an immense tannin and pretty fair acid but they never interfere with each other.
Chateau Moncontour, “Tete de Cuvee”, Cremant de Vouvray NV A very good sparkling wine with plenty of small concentrated bubbles; on the palate tart green apples with a hint of citrus and a clean crisp finish; simple but very pleasing.
John Vego
Marques de Caceres, “Deusa Nai”, Albarino, Rias Biaxas 2010 Pale yellow straw with complex flavors of apricots, peaches, and a long, clean, rich finish; great balance between fruit and acidity. I love this wine.
Brancott Estate, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2010 Clear with a slight edge of green; classic goose berries with passion fruit and a touch of melon mid-palate; clean and refreshing. Ensemble, Blend, California 2010 Definitely new world with honeysuckle, pear, and lime; ripe and juicy with a round fruity finish; good for those who don’t like it too dry. Firestone, Riesling, Santa Ynez Valley 2010 The hue is pale straw with a delicate nose of fresh fruit leading into green apples and apricots on the palate; simple but clean, refreshing finish. Marziano Abbona, “Brico Barone”, Nebbiolo d’ Alba 2009 Dark, almost black in hue; there is plenty of tannin but the fruit keeps it in check; deep cherries and a touch of plum with fresh herbs and spice, and a hint of licorice; great wine to go with a leg of lamb. 3 Thieves, “The Show”, Pinot Noir, Leyda Valley 2010 Bright ruby hue with aromas of deep ripe fruits; on the palate, Bing cherries and plum with good concentration and nice acidity to keep it food friendly; a little light on the finish, but well done. Catalpa, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tupungato Valle de Uco 2008 Dark purple hue with deep ripe aromas of black fruits with a touch of pencil lead; on the palate cassis and dried cherries with a touch of tannins that could use a little aeration or time to evolve; good with roasted or grilled meats.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Elicio, Blend, Vin de Pays, France 2010 Very pale straw color; subtle and delicate yet spicy and pert; hints of peaches, pears and almond skin; some earthiness comes through; very dry, packed with limestone and shale, brings up more earthiness to the detriment of fruit, which disappears; finishes with marked austerity. Gustave Lorentz, Pinot Gris, Alsace 2009 Pale gold color; hints of peach and pear, touches of straw, caraway and dried thyme; bright clean acidity that fades through the finish, leaving fruit unsupported; brings in more earthiness and limestoneshale minerality. Schloss Vollrads, Riesling, Rhiengau 2010 Light straw-gold color; fresh and refreshing, delicate and elegant; aromas of peach and pear with hints of lychee and jasmine and just a touch of spiced clover honey; initial sweetness turns bone-dry from mid-palate back, lending authority to the wine’s balance and tone; limestone and damp shale run cleaning through like a blade. Frisk, “Prickly”, Riesling, Victoria 2010 Very pale straw color; very delicate and refined, modestly sweet entry that seamlessly picks up dryness and crisp acidity from midpalate back through the finish; wet stones, clover, jasmine; touches of lychee and pear and a trace of petrol; all quite subtle and nuanced.
Frederic Koeppel
Fess Parker, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2008 Medium ruby color with a lighter, limpid rim; beguiling aromas of black cherries and plums with a hint of smoke and a lick of cola and hints of earthy moss and mushrooms, exotic cloves and sandalwood; lots of satiny drape in the texture and succulent with ripe and spicy black currant, cherry and plum flavors but rigorously structured with tannin and acidity that cuts a swath on the palate; the finish unfurls burnished oak and graphite. Domaine de Catherine Le Goeuil, Cairanne, Cotes du Rhone Villages 2009 Dark ruby-mulberry color; packed with spiced, macerated and slightly stewed black currants, black raspberries and blueberries, with undertones of rhubarb and pomegranate; firm and resilient texture, moderately dense and chewy, layered with foresty, underbrush elements, vibrant acidity and granitic mineral qualities; pulls up traces of lavender and violets, fruitcake and plum pudding; perfect pitch and tone. San Huberto, Malbec, Argentina 2010 Deep ruby color, almost inky; clean and fresh yet dusty, earthy and minerally; black olive and celery seed, thyme and cedar, black currants and black cherry with a hint of blueberry; wild, untamed, close to exotic, solid structure with (again) dusty, fine-grained tannins and spicy oak; touches of licorice and pomegranate, quince paste and macerated figs wrapped about a black tea and bittersweet chocolate core; dense, dark, almost brooding finish. LaMadrid, Malbec, Argentina 2008 Dark ruby-purple; ink, iron and iodine bouquet, mint and lavender; dusty, intense and concentrated black currants and plums with a hint of wild berry; impressive weight and substance married to a paradoxical sense of refinement, even delicacy; finely-milled tannins; subtle, supple oak; bright acidity; a moderately long finish freighted with clean earth and underbrush qualities. Stalking Horse, Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2008 Deep ruby-purple color; very spicy, amazing purity and intensity, vibrant and scintillating graphite-like minerality; licorice, lilac, touch of mint; a wine with real character, tone and presence; brings up fruit like cassis and Port-infused black cherries and raspberries; beautifully-knit tannins, oak and acidity; long, earthy, mineral-flecked finish; nothing shy here but still remains calmly in control. Manos Negras, Malbec, Mendoza 2007 Very dark ruby color; cassis, black cherry and raspberry, orange Pekoe tea; penetrating graphite element; spice and fruitcake, fruit is fleshy, meaty, macerated; tannins and acidity fairly sharp, even brusque, the finish is very dry and austere, almost astringent.
Terry Allen
Zonin, “Solletico”, Prosecco 2010 Yeasty, slightly buttered nose. Caramelized almost cooked front palate, highly unusual. Maintained great bubble structure and I believe opened after a moment when retasted. It most definitely grew on me and closed with a simple tropical fruit.
Folie A Duex, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010 Very pleasant, though usually not my cup of tea, has elements of lime and apples- there is an essence of Malolatic fermentation but not too creamy, the acid is good and the finish does not carry an immense amount of oak. Castello Monaci, “Acante”, Fiano, Salento 2010 Pale straw in color, with very high acid, the most noticeable feature. Slightly grassy, and just a hint of Pomelo style grapefruit, it finishes short but seems to be made that way. Very interesting. Red diamond, Shiraz, Washington 2008 Garnet color, aromas of red fruit and rawtex, very very soft on tongue with more red fruit all the way through. Very drinkable, good all the way from start to finish. Balius, Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands 2009 Green bell pepper and cracked black peppercorn with some dark fruit on the nose. Palate is immediately overtaken by dark berries with good tannins and short, albeit, nice finish. Jargon, Pinot Noir, California 2010 Cherries, strawberries and a hint of Cocoa. There is one good burst of fruit and some fun but finishes a touch shallow. Milbrandt Estates, Merlot, Wahluke Slope 2009 Purple color with a reddish rim, cedar spiced red fruits and soft tannin in a medium body, good as it stands but I need a good cut of grilled meat to really enjoy. Ferrari-Carano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 2009 Great inky color, balanced dark fruits with a silky smoothness and polished tannins. Everywhere in this wine there are notes of cassis, violets, and cedar. Absolutely enjoyable. Gotham, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley 2008 Very strange wine, there is an almost creamy mouthfeel but has a really deep dark color, there is fruit but it tastes almost candied. The nose has a bit of wet cardboard, in a good way there is very little acid but not apparently alcoholic.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Uppercut, Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast 2010 Light pale yellow. The nose shows scents of grass and citrus with a tinge of minerality. Soft fruit with hints of quince and lemon balm on the palate. Pleasant but short finish. A little alcoholic heat on the back end. Pierre Sparr, “Alsace One”, Blend, Alsace 2010 Medium pale yellow. A fragrant floral nose with a hint of petrol. Slightly off dry. Generous minerality with layered flavors of stone fruit and apple. A smooth elongated finish with a cleansing acidity.
John Condy
Vina Leyda, Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley 2011 Very light golden color. Light on the palate with hints of lemon, lime and bell pepper. A crisp finish with mouthwatering acidity keeps you coming back for more.
Girard, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009 Bright light golden color. Honeysuckle and a hint of oak in the nose. A somewhat creamy texture on the palate with generous tropical fruit flavors. The tropical fruit flavors linger in the soft finish with adequate acidity. Domaine Diochon, Moulin-a-Vent 2010 Bright Garnet color. Very light nose of blackberry. Flavors of tart cherry and dark fruit with nice earthy minerality and gripping tannins. Tartness and tannins continue on in the long finish with a pleasant saline aspect. Domaine Coudoulis, Lirac 2009 Dark purple. Nose of graphite, violets and dark fruit. Dark fruit flavors of black currant and blueberry with an underlying spiciness. Full bodied with a short but pleasant finish. Folie a Deux, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2009 Medium opaque purple color. Hints of boysenberry and a bit of spiciness on the nose. Intense black fruit flavors of blackberry and stewed plum. Jammy with a lingering spiciness and adequate acidity. Hahn, Meritage, Central Coast 2009 Bright and vibrant purple hue. Toasty nose of vanilla and cassis with a hint of eucalyptus. A gentle earthiness on the palate with raspberry and cassis flavors and hints of graphite and tobacco. Well integrated oak treatment with balanced acidity and a medium length finish. Three Thieves, “The Show”, Malbec, Mendoza 2010 Deep Dark Purple. Nose of very dark fruit with a hint of sweet licorice. Very full bodied with intense dark fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla and light tannins. Medium length finish with a bit of black pepper and lingering black fruit. Great acidity. Cousino-Macul, Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2010 Medium ruby color. Slight hints of cherry and cola in the nose. Light plum and cherry flavors with soft tannins. Medium length finish with lingering soft fruit.
360 Vodka, Georgia Peach Pineapple, mango, cane sugar, sweet on the palate & very soft. Pinnacle Vodka, Atomic hots Aromas of Cinnamon, rubber. Tastes like red hots. Glenfiddich, 15 year, Scots Whiskey Aromas of sherry, nuts, hints of peat & brine. Distinctive aromas of charred oak & brown butter. Hot on the palate with chili pepper & bitterness on the finish. Clean but almost abrasive. Use this as a component in a drink.
Michael Hughes General Manager, Joe’s Wine & Liquor
Veev, AÇai berry Spirit Hints of cocoa, cardamom, vanilla bean. Citrus peel & citrus juice with a bit of grape on the palate with a clean finish. Not too sweet. Solerno, Blood Orange Liqueur Bitter orange, orange peel, sweet corn on the nose. Big, bright, juicy orange fruit on the palate. Perfect as a component in a Negroni or a Death in The Afternoon. Using this as a component & adding bitterness would balance the sweet and round texture. Adult Chocolate Milk Significant alcohol on the nose with ripe cheese & hints of yogurt. Notes of cocoa and raspberry as well. Sweet, rich, and thick with cocoa flavors on the finish. Alcohol is evident but not too overpowering.
Beefeater “24 Artisan Cut” London Dry Gin Soft nose with balanced botanicals, smooth and drinkable, neat but with a nice feminine aspect. Pearl “Wedding Cake” Vodka Smells of caramel and butterscotch, sweet on tongue.
David Parks Alchemy
Ole Smokey, Apple Pie Moonshine Crab apples and cinnamon aromas translate to mouth and also has clove and cranberry. Pritchards, “Sweet Lucy” Bourbon Cream Smells like nougat and whipped cream, creamy texture and alcohol apparent, a sour milk type finish. Rum Chata, Horchata con Ron Coconut milk with cinnamon, nutmeg and almond, tastes like creamed custard with same spices. Barenjager, Honey Bourbon Nose of mulled Mead, honeysuckle and spice, thick rich natural honey flavor with a solid support.
Cathead, Mississippi Vodka Ethyl Alcohol and blued steel with a minerality, soft entry and extremely smooth, no grit or harshness. Floral and subtle but satisfying.
Chris Thorn
Sommelier, Cork IT
Famous Grouse, The Black Grouse, blended Scotch Whiskey Sweet roasting malts and tobacco leaf. Peat and hints of sweet corn with a very very light smoke around a fairly hot finish, some spice but nothing over the top. St. Germain, elderflower liqueur, France Lily, lemon peel and petrol; very luxurious in the mouth with a sweetness that is refreshing but dominate. A hint of orange and rose petal, with an oily texture.
Spirits Tasters TASTING
Reyka, Vodka, Iceland Vodka, clean, bright, hints of sweetness, brine on the nose, white pepper on the finish. Very straightforward. Blend-able & clean but would stand alone as a martini.
NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Cocktail
recipes
Our skilled mixologists of Memphis share a few original drink recipes based on the spirits we’ve tasted, designed to highlight aspects of the individual spirit or use a liqueur to add depth, these refined libations are worth the time to recreate.
Italian Groove Recipe by Michael Hughes 2oz Gin (something with heavy botanicals, like a Citadelle or Junipero) 1oz Cocchi Americano ¾ oz Dry Vermouth A good splash of Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur 2 dashes of Fee Brother’s Grapefruit Bitters Flamed Grapefruit peel Build drink in Highball glass, and give a quick swizzle before serving
The Midtowner Recipe by Michael Hughes 1 Bar spoon of Green Chartreuse 1oz Domaine Canton Ginger Liqueur 2oz Glenfiddich 15yr Scotch Small pinch of Paprika 2 dashes of Ginger bitters 2 dashes of Bacon Bitters (Great addition to any Whisky base) Shake Hard and serve over three Paprika Ice Cubes Paprika Ice Cubes: use standard Ice cube tray add a pinch of paprika before placing in freezer
Bagpipes in New Orleans Recipe by Chris Thorn Rinse an old fashion glass with ¾ oz of St. Germain Place a single Maraschino cherry in the glass and top with 2-3 dashes Fee Brother’s Lemon Bitters Pack ice on top of Cherry 2oz of The Black Grouse over the ice Garnish With half an orange wheel
Cat’s Meow
The Double-Dribble
Recipe by Chris Thorn Muddle a slice of cucumber and 2 mint leaves with a pinch of kosher salt in a highball glass Fill glass with ice (Cracked preferred) Add 2 ½ oz Cathead Mississippi Vodka Insert 2 very thin lime slices vertically in glass
1oz Veev Acai 1 ½ oz Kettle One Vodka 2 lime wedges Diet Sprite Sugar free Cranberry
Top with a splash of soda
Build drink in a Highball, the cranberry should literally just tint the drink pink. Diet Sprite is the most important component.
If it Ever Snows Again
An Old Shining Example of Americana
Recipe by Chris Thorn 1 ½ oz Rum Chata 1 ½ oz Cinnamon / clove infused Bourbon ½ oz Amaretto ½ oz Crème de Cocoa Stir all ingredients in a shaker without ice, strain into a glass, top with milk foam (strength can be diluted by slowly adding steamed milk)
Poker Face Recipe by Chris Thorn Rinse a martini glass with St. Germain, be sure to coat thoroughly In ice filled shaker combine 1oz Reyka Vodka, 2oz Beefeater 24, ¼ oz Dolin Dry Vermouth Add 4-5 drops of fresh lemon juice, and STIR to combine Slice a lemon paper thin and put into glass, strain shaker over lemon slice
1 part Old Smoky Apple Pie Shine 1 part 360 Madagascar Vanilla Vodka 1 part heavy cream Shake vigorously to combine and serve up with grated nutmeg
Kiss and Tell 1 ½ oz 360 Georgia Peach Vodka infused with vanilla ½ oz Barenjager Honey Liqueur 2 drops of Reegan’s Orange Bitters Serve on the rocks with a mint garnish
- Cork it! Resources -
Alchemy
Cheers Wines & Spirits
13
Alchemy’s mission is to restore dignity and distinction to cocktails; to serve remarkable and memorable food; all the while creating a social and sexy atmosphere that drives people in and keeps them coming back again and again. Our cocktail program is developed with the help of Andy Seymour of aka winegeek.com out of NYC. Alchemy is owned and operated by the following individuals: Bert Smythe, John Littlefield & Stewart Wingate.
901.726.4444
901-853-2211
AlchemyMemphis.com
Amerigo Italian Restaurant
30
Cheers Wines & Spirits is centrally located in Collierville near the intersection of Poplar Avenue and Byhalia Road. A neighborhood atmosphere and knowledgeable staff ensure Cheers customers a pleasant shopping experience. Whatever your style, experience or budget, we can provide recommendations, assist you with new selections, or provide guidance for your special occasion. Cheers Wines & Spirits is dedicated to bringing the best from the vine to our customers. Ask us your questions! We’ll be ready with an interesting suggestion or information to share regarding the wines and spirits that interest you.
Circa by John Bragg
26
13
With a casual atmosphere, Amerigo is cozy and upbeat with personalized, polished service and fresh, high quality food and wine. Our wood-fired grill and wood-fired oven cooking set our passion for preparing the finest traditional Italian ingredients with an American and Mediterranean twist.
Remember the first time you tasted an extraordinary dish, or a unique, exciting new wine? This is Chef John Bragg’s conception of Circa, his restaurant in East Memphis: special culinary moments echoing the excitement and newness of early 20th century dining, transplanted with the Millennial sophistication and global outlook we apply to food and wine today.
901.761.4000
901.746.9130
Buster’s Wine & Liquors
www.amerigo.net
www.circamemphis.com
Climate Controlled Wine Storage 52 Back Cover
A facility that will be up and running in May or June of this year to store wine in a temperature and humidity controlled environment. This facility is open to any individual in need of a space to store such valuables as their wine.
Buster’s is Tennessee’s premier wine shop boasting the state’s largest volume and selection of wine and spirits with over 10,000 items in stock. Buster’s has been voted the #1 Best Wine Store in Memphis through The Commercial Appeal and The Memphis Flyer’s Readers Poll. At Buster’s, “We Have Your Spirit.”
Climate Controlled 901-458-0929
CFY Catering
www.bustersliquors.com
28
CFY Catering, LLC is dedicated to making your event truly memorable. We specialize in catering couture, allowing us to create a unique dining experience that is reflective of you. We believe food should be entertaining, hors d’oeuvres whimsical, dinners classic, and every event different from the last.
901-213-4514
www.cfycatering.com
901.277.4026
Cuestion Spirits, Inc
58
We at Cuestión Tequila believe that everything in life should be cuestioned, for it is the pursuit of wisdom, wonder and shared adventure that makes life itself worth living. Cuestion Tequila is an ultra-premium spirit made from 100% all natural, hand-selected Blue Weber agave; Estate grown for 10 years and distilled in the highlands of the Los Altos region of Jalisco, Mexico and then bottled in handblown artisanal bottles that are as unique as the tequila within. “Learn from yesterday, live for today, hope for tomorrow. The important thing is not to stop questioning. “ - Albert Einstein
CuestionSpirits.com
Elfo’s Restaurant
Interim Bar and Restaurant Inside Front Cover
Elfo’s speaks of a time-honored tradition of excellence begun by Alex’s great-grandfather Rinaldo in 1903. Rinaldo Grisanti followed by his sons and then their sons have established the Grisanti name and the fine tradition of La Famiglia Grisanti Tuscan Cuisine. Elfo’s: Defined by our name!
901-753-4017
ElfosRestaurant.com
Erling Jensen, The Restaurant
26
For 14 years Erling’s has been a leader in the world of food and wine, setting a high standard for fine dining in Memphis and the Mid-South. Our approach to cuisine is simple: globally inspired and classically executed. We feature the freshest ingredients to produce meals of the finest quality. As the seasons change, we reinvent our menu creating fresh challenges for us and pleasant surprises for you. This approach is embedded in the French tradition and it reflects our commitment to provide our guests with a healthy and imaginative cuisine.
901.763.3700
www.ejensen.com
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
Interim
901-818-0821
www.InterimRestaurant.com
Lucchesi’s Ravoli & Pasta Company, Inc
50
Lucchesi’s Ravioli and Pasta Company is a unique shopping experience, with family traditions brought from Florence, Italy to Memphis at the turn of the century over 100 years ago. Our pasta is fresh and made daily. Homemade restaurant quality Italian meals are ready when you are - drop by and pick up fresh pasta, ravioli, lasagna, sauce, and Italian spinach. Italy at your door! Call to pick up or order online.
901-766-9922
Lucchesis.com
McEwen’s on Monroe 55
78
Interim Bar and Restaurant opened on January 23, 2007. A highly visual state of the art kitchen is fused with the dining rooms to enhance the relationship between the Chef and his audience of patrons. The constant flow of activity and artistic food presentation are an integral part of the dining experience. R E S TA U R A N T & B A R Your palate will be peaked as the savory aromas from the 5040 Sanderlin Avenue Chef’s |culinary preparations spill out into the dining room. 5040 Sanderlin Avenue | 901.818.0821 interimrestaurant.com Suite 105 Interim’s climate controlled wine room is also a focal point Memphis, Tennessee 38117 behind a glass wall bordering the dining room on one side.
13
The nationally acclaimed Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar offers the best in steakhouse dining-Prime meats and chops, fresh fish and poultry, generous salads and side orders-with a unique wine list known as the Fleming’s 100, which features over 100 wines served by the glass. Fleming’s is the recipient of numerous prestigious awards, including Wine Enthusiast’s annual Award of Distinction and Wine Spectator Magazine’s Award of Excellence.
McEwen’s on Monroe is passionate. Passionate about food, passionate about wine, and passionate about creating a place you long to come back to again and again. An eclectic blend of styles with the largest emphasis on Southern food raised to new and unusual heights. Lunch offers a wide array of… excellent sandwiches, salads and business entrees, while dinner leans toward the more elaborate and inventive. Our commitment to a relaxed atmosphere and charming personality has enabled McEwen’s on Monroe to become one of Downtown’s most comfortable restaurants. Employing a knowledgeable and attentive staff always at the ready. In addition to the bar and dining room, our wine cellar is available for parties up to 20 people.
901.761.6200
901.527.7085
FlemingsSteakhouse.com
Gemini Multimedia
80
No matter what your event, Gemini multimedia will provide unequaled photo and video coverage. Sessions are available 24 x 7! Gemini Multimedia’s owner, Ande Demetriou, is the exclusive photographer for Cork it! magazine’s second edition.
McewensMemphis.com
Memphis Farmers Market
1
Under the shade of the downtown Central Station Pavilion, the Memphis Farmers Market is open every Saturday, April through October, from 7A to 1P. With more than 80 area farmers and artisans, the market is free to the public and provides access to fresh produce, meats, cheeses, eggs and more, plus handmade crafts and baked goods. With kids’ activities, chef demos and live music, the market is a lively community-gathering place for everyone in the Mid-South.
www.memphisfarmersmarket.org
901-213-7890
Great Wines and Spirits
56
Memphis Maintenance Group
56
Great Wines & Spirits is a store in which I want to shop,’ says owner Gary Burhop. Our name says it all - personal service, knowledge we share freely and a tremendous selection of wine and spirits in all price ranges with a high quality to price ratio representing excellent value.
Licensed General contractor. Commercial and residential design and construction of specialty projects.
901-682-1333
901-578-5107
www.greatwinesmemphis.com
www.memphismaintenance.com
33
The Stellar Cellar Wine & Spirits 26
Natalie’s has been serving the Cordova area for over 15 years. We have one of the largest selections of fine wines and spirits with thousands of labels all displayed in our 7000 sq ft store. Our friendly staff are always ready to help you with the perfect selection for any occasion!
The Stellar Cellar is Memphis’ fastest growing wine store. With over 2,500 labels in stock, we have the wine for every occasion. Our staff wants to make your wine experience as simple and pleasurable as possible. Enjoy your holiday season and please come visit us soon. After all, wine’s fun here!
901-751-4232
901-371-8232
Natalie’s Liquor Warehousse
Natalie’s
Liquor Warehouse
www.nataliesliquor.com
Riedel
Inside Back Cover
W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd. Inside Back Cover
Tradition and innovation - the Riedel company can proudly look back on its 250-year success story. From its beginnings in northern Bohemia down to this day, for 11 generations (for now) Riedel Glass has stood for the high art of glassmaking.
901.277.4026
Founded in 1981 by Chairman Bill Deutsch, W.J.Deutsch & Sons was created to market quality wines from prestigious families from major wine regions throughout the world. Our diverse portfolio includes internationally renowned, award-winning brands that are recognized among the leading wines in their categories.
Riedel.com
WJDeutsch.com
Southwestern Distributing 30, 81, Inside Back Cover
Wine Market Wine Market is a full-service wine store specializing in providing you a personal wine shopping experience. Our unmatched and carefully chosen selection of wines and spirits proves that we dig a little deeper to uncover values in labels not usually found at run-of-the-mill liquor stores.
We are a beverage wholesaler dedicated to providing excellent service to West Tennessee since 1939. We proudly distribute fine wines, liquors and high gravity ales, and we also have an incredible selection of craft beers from around the globe.
901-272-9648
SouthwesternBeverage.com
Sweet Grass
55
Sweet Grass is a neighborhood bistro, specializing in low country cuisine. Chef Ryan Trimm tries to use as much local ingredient as possible and the kitchen makes most everything in house. Recently, Sweet Grass added Next Door, a comfortable place to catch the game or grab a drink after work. The menu is composed of creative bar snacks and classic appetizers. Reservations are recommended for Sweet Grass, but Next Door is designed for walk ins only.
901.278.0278
www.sweetgrassmemphis.com
The Grove Grill
56
Best Shrimp and Grits in town! Casual Dining, Fine Cuisine. Call it what you like, it’s always on Memphis’ Best Restaurant list. Executive Chef Joshua Perkins use the freshest fish, the choicest meat and locally grown produce to create a menu including Jumbo Lump Crab cakes, Mahogany Roast Duckling, wood grilled steaks, the best oysters the Gulf has to offer, and Chef’s seasonal “Small Plate” menu. Private dining rooms for 12 to 55. Reservations, 818-9951, 4550 Poplar in Laurelwood Shopping Center, Lunch 11:00 - 2:30, Sunday Brunch and Dinner 5:30 seven days a week.
901.818.9951
www.thegrovegrill.com
901.761.1662
WineMarketMemphis.com
YOUR OTHER WINE WILL NEVER KNOW.
Grape varietal specific
Tom Cassidy 901.277.4026 tom@cassidyfinefoods.com Riedel.com
Authorized Dealer Any Riedel item can be purchased