The Bourbon Legacy A Week in the life of a
Busy Memphian Felicia Willett
First Lady of Memphis How to Write About Wine
like Robert Parker, Jr
U n ta m e d by Fredric Koeppel
View Magazine Online www.MemphisCorkIt.com
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From the Publisher
Published by Memphis Cork It P.O. Box 31568, Knoxville, TN 37930 865.531.3941 Publisher / Editor Allison Jacob Contributing Editor Chris Thorn Assistant to the Publisher Elizabeth Jones
To my fellow wine and spirits lovers, I want to set the record straight about what it takes to be a publisher and editor of a magazine. Let me explain – it is NOT all fun and games! I’m really just like you, trying to learn about something that I have a passion for, wine, and along with that, food, and now spirits. As you browse this issue, you will see that I took a trip to Kentucky to learn about Bourbon. To be totally honest, I wasn’t thrilled about going to The Blue Grass State (because I abused Jim Beam in college and swore it off for LIFE), but I went because Cork iT needed me to go and experience everything that I could and then share my trip with you. Guess what? Bourbon and I made up. You will also notice that I went to Napa Valley to interview a role model of mine, Eileen Crane of Domaine Carneros, and bring you some insight into the world of women and wine. Hopefully this will spark an interest in young women to explore the role of winemaker and their place in the wine industry. In this issue, we launch a new series that we would like to see grow – The Week in the Life of a Busy Memphian. Do you find that you need a bottle of good wine, don’t know what to buy and are probably on some kind of budget? We are here to answer that need for you. Check it out. We also added a number of new restaurants to our roster and kept many of your favorites, all of which would like to share their new Fall features with you. Some of the dishes are paired with wine, some with beer, and others with spirits. Take a look and decide on your favorite drink with your favorite dish. AND be sure to let the restaurants (and wine and liquor stores) know you read about them in Cork iT. This issue is bursting with drink recipes. We thought this would be a good time for you to offer a signature drink, or several signature drinks, at your holiday party or gathering. Whether the guests are family, friends or co-workers, try something new. Shake it up a bit! I was already the publisher of another magazine - The Pink Bride – when I started Cork iT, so as with any new and complicated enterprise, I probably stumbled a bit here and there seeking the proper focus. That is why you see changes in each issue – I want to grow with you, the reader – and that is why I value your comments and suggestions.
Production Manager Karen Tobias Photographers Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia Featured Photographer Lindsey Lissau Photography
©2012 Jacob Marketing Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or graphic content in any manner without written permission of Jacob Marketing Inc. is strictly prohibited. All articles are property of Jacob Marketing, Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from Jacob Marketing, Inc is strictly prohibited. Photographs used in Cork It are provided and copyrighted by their respective owners and may not be reproduced without the owner’s permission. Jacob Marketing, Inc., dba Cork It, is not responsible for any errors, misprints, misquotes, or omissions. All rights reserved.
Visit Us Online At www.MemphisCorkIt.com Facebook @ Cork It Magazine Memphis
Don’t miss Memphis’ latest collaborative website, www.MemphisCorkIt.com, featuring every local wine event you don’t want to miss. Keep your schedule packed with tastings, dinners, and terrific charitable events around town. See the magazine online and preview up and coming new advertisers in our area. Stay up-to-date with the latest wine and food related happenings on the blog!
On the cover: Cover photo by Lindsey Lissau
Contents TAKE A LOOK INSIDE THIS ISSUE
The Bourbon Legacy
A Week in the life of a
Busy Memphian
Felicia Willett
First Lady of Memphis
How to Write About Wine
like Robert Parker, Jr
Untamed
by Fredric Koeppel
St. Jude Garden Harvest THE MEMPHIS HUNT AND POLO CLUB THURSDAY, OC TOBER 25, 2012
STJUDE.ORG/HAR VEST
Memphis area wine and spirits Stores We want to give you an overview of the Memphis area wine and spirits Stores available for you to browse and patronize. Our local businesses make this publication possible so we encourage you to support them. Each of these stores are equipped with well-trained individuals there to guide you through their wine and spirits selections. Don’t be afraid to ask!
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1 Buster’s Liquors & Wines 191 S Highland St Memphis, TN 38111 (901) 458-0929
7 Gaslight Liquor Shop 4177 Summer Ave Memphis, TN 38122 (901) 452-8743
13 Poplar Wines and Spirits 2136 W Poplar Ave Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 850-9775
2 Great Wines & Spirits 6150 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 682-1333
8 Joe’s Wines & Liquor 1681 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 725-4252
14 Southwind Wine & Spirits 3775 Hacks Cross Rd Memphis, TN 38125 (901) 309-2100
3 Stellar Cellar Wine and Spirits 9005 Highway 64 Arlington, TN 38002 (901) 371-8232
9 Kirby Wine and Liquors 2865 Kirby Rd Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 756-1993
15 The Spirits Shoppe 4848 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 767-7030
4 Arthur’s Wine & Liquor 5475 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 767-9463
10 Liquor and Wine Depot 756 Mount Moriah Rd Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 685-3080
16 The Winery of Germantown 7841 Farmington Blvd Germantown, TN 38138 (901) 624-4675
5 Cheers Wines and Spirits 366 New Byhalia Rd Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 853-2211
11 Natalie’s Liquor Warehouse 1009 N Germantown Pkwy Cordova, TN 38018 (901) 751-4232
17 Wine Market 4700 Spottswood Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 761-1662
6 Forest Hill Wine Merchants 9087 Poplar Ave Germantown, TN 38138 (901) 757-1903
12 Poplar Pike Liquors 9330 Poplar Pike Germantown, TN 38138 (901) 309-0202
Busters Go-to Wines A Week
in the Life of a
Busy Memphian
Mon or Tues: Burger/Pizza Night Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc 2011 - $ 11.99 Marietta Old Vines Lot No. 57 - $ 13.99
Wednesday: Housewarming Party Margerum Klickitat Pinot Gris 2010 - $ 17.99 Cimarone 3CV Syrah 2009 - $ 15.99
Do you find that you need a bottle of good wine, but don’t know what to buy and are (probably) on some kind of budget? We are here to satisfy that need for you! We have set a weekly scenario in the life of a bustling Memphian. Each of us can relate to one or more of the following circumstances: burger or pizza night, a housewarming where you need to take a gift, dinner out with your friends, or entertaining at your home – let us guide you! Several Memphis wine stores selected their answer to your dilemma, with red and white wines, to fit your budget. If you have a different need than what we have suggested, just ask the wine expert at your local store. They are more than glad to help!
NOTE: Most restaurants welcome patrons to bring their own wine for a corkage fee (see our Memphis Restaurant Wine Resource Guide for specific pricing). Please be mindful of the restaurants specific list, as replicating a bottle already sold within the establishment is frowned upon.
“Thank you to my dear friend, Courtney Strange, for the idea origination of this article. Visit her at Acre. She makes a dynamite cocktail!” – Allison Jacob.
Thursday: Dinner out with Friends La Rossingole Sancerre 2010 - $ 22.99 Chelsea Goldschmidt Merlot 2009 - $ 19.99
Saturday: Couples Night at the
House – Steaks Galore!
Ramey Chardonnay Russian RV 2009 - $ 45.99 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 - $ 31.99
Stellar cellar Go-to Wines
Great Wines & Spirits Go-to Wines
Mon or Tues: Burger/Pizza Night
Mon or Tues: Burger/Pizza Night
Zolo Malbec - $9.99 Ruffino Lumina Pinot Grigio - $8.99
Fetzer Valley Oaks Cabernet - $7.99 Fat bastard Chardonnay - $9.99
Wednesday: Housewarming Party
Wednesday: Housewarming Party
Peachy Canyon Incredible Red - $12.99 Justin Sauvignon Blanc - $17.99
Raymond R Collection Field Blend Red - $11.99 Denis Dutron Macon-Fuisse - $18
Thursday: Dinner out with Friends
Thursday: Dinner out with Friends
Siduri Pinot Noir Willamette Valley - $22.99 Argyle Brut - $26.99
Buena Vista The Court Red Blend - $20 Cliff Lede Sauvignon Blanc - $19.99
Saturday:
Couples Night at the House – Steaks Galore!
Saturday: Couples Night at the
Sleight of Hand Illusionist Cabernet/Cabernet Franc - $46.99 Sparkman Chardonnay - $29.99
Chateau Cantemerle Haut-Medoc 2006 - $45.99 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay - $49.99
House – Steaks Galore!
Bourbon Hot Dogs
Jack Daniel Cream for bread pudding: 1/2 cup Jack, 1/4
serves 2
cup brown sugar, qt. of heavy cream. over med. heat in
4 West Wind lamb hot dogs
sauce pan add Jack. Burn off alcohol then add the brown
4 buns
sugar and cream. reduce to thickness you want it.
your favorite mustard and relish or pickles
Chef Derk Meitzler, Local Gastropub
8 oz. bourbon ice as needed Light your grill, once the charcoal is glowing grill the dogs
Jim Beam Snow-Cone Take one pint glass and fill with
and cook. Call a buddy, invite them over. Place dogs on
crushed/shaved ice to top. Add “Jim Beam White” till full.
buns, fix them how you like them. Divide bourbon into two
Enjoy! I call it my Jim Beam Snow-cone. :)
equal parts, chill with ice. Eat dogs, drink bourbon, repeat
Executive Chef Jonathan Steenerson, Ciao Bella
as necessary. Kelly English, Chef/Owner of Restaurant Iris Bourbon Caramel (lactose free): 3 C Sugar It’s always Old Fashioneds, Nick Talarico’s recipe:
2 C Water
1 sugar cube
.5 C Bourbon
1 dash Angostura bitters
Mix Sugar and .5 C water in a heavy bottom pot. Simmer
3 drops AM orange bitters (or Regan’s)
until it reaches the color of iced tea (amber). Bring remaining
Small splash soda water
1.5 C of water to a boil. Add to caramel. Bring to a boil, once
2 ounces Maker’s Mark
all sugar is dissolved add .5C Bourbon.
Orange peel
Ryan Trimm, Executive Chef, Sweet Grass & Next Door
Place cube in Old Fashioned glass, dash both bitters on top of sugar cube. Add tiniest squirt of soda water to wet sugar cube. Muddle until broken down and not grainy. Pour 2
Flank steak marinated: One recipe that we like is Flank
ounces Maker’s Mark. Add ice – preferably a hand-cut ice
steak marinated in brown sugar, bourbon, a little soy, a
ball from H&H. Twist 1 large zest of orange, best if made with
little Worcestershire, and black pepper. After 2 or 3 hours
potato peeler. Drop peel in. Enjoy!
of marinating it’s ready to be cooked to medium rare and
Chefs Andy and Mike, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen
thinly sliced. It’s delicious! Mike Rice, Claybrook Farms
Marinate jumbo shrimps in a marinade of equal parts Makers Mark, sesame oil, and soy sauce for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Bourbon is so versatile; I really like reducing it down and
Grill or broil for about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Dip cooked
using with meats. As well as a dessert! Great with any dish.
shrimp into marinade, roll in sesame seeds to coat, and return
Chef Dennis Cowan, Theo’s Bistro
to grill or broiler to cook until seeds are lightly browned, turning once. Allow about 1/2 pound of shrimp per person. Scott Ritchie, Jim’s Place Restaurant & Bar
Anything Bourbon
AROUND TOWN
AROUND TOWN
14th Annual
Spirit of SRVS August 25, 2012
EVENT INFORMATION Attendance: more than 600 people. Money raised (gross) night of event was $130,000. Event Chairs: Joan and Michael Terry Honorary Chairs: Autumn and David Porter, Anne Wulff and Brian Bendersky, Susan Sprinfield
The money was raised for SRVS Learning Center - a new center with expanded classrooms as well as a teaching kitchen, model apartment, music and media room, computer room, library, sensory stimulation room, and therapy room. The center is part of SRVS new headquarters at 3971 Knight Arnold in Memphis. The money will be used to support the center as we double the number of individuals at the center. The center also houses a new clinical services area. All proceeds will go to support the new Learning Center and its state of the art facilities and in so doing, help support more than 850 people with disabilities supported by SRVS throughout all of its programs. The Company d Dancers and Merrye Kiihnl, who lives in a SRVS home, sang along to The Final Countdown by Europe. She was SRVS star performer and we were so proud of her. In addition, we had pianist Eddie Harrison and Dr. Bill Hurd on sax. Mike Maness was the featured guest artist who painted The Tree of Love as the Spirit of SRVS commemorative artwork. Steve Conley, radio personality from WKQK was emcee and auctioneer. His co-auctioneer was Terry Reeves - Director of Sales and Marketing at Hicks Convention Services. There were more than 40 vendors including wineries and restaurants such as: Bhan Thai, Central BBQ, Eclectic Catering, Hog Wild BBQ, Memphis Pizza Café, Off the Square Catering, Panera Bread, Royal Panda, Sharky’s Gulf Grill, Smoothie King, and Viking Culinary School. The Best of Show went to Hog Wild BBQ and Best Appetizer was awarded to Off the Square Catering. We are thankful to many sponsors including: Hilton Memphis, Southwestern Distributing, American Snuff, AutoZone, FedEx, First Tennessee Foundation, Blue Cross BlueShield of Tennessee, Community Trust, and Guardian Healthcare Providers Inc.
By Diana Fedinec, SRVS PR Manager
photos by Ben Fant
AROUND TOWN
Brooks Dinner at Erling Jensen
Photography by Kent Ritchey and Laura Beth Davis
August 17, 2012
By Laura Beth Davis Fundraising Events Manager, Memphis Brooks Museum of Art
Thirty wines were poured at a tasting featuring 1982 Bordeaux at Erling Jensen on Friday, August 17. Hosts Erling, Tom Black and Tom Cassidy did not disappoint. Brooks’ patrons enjoyed the first growths and an incredible menu by one of the best chefs in the country. Guests attending were: co-host Tom Black and Jenny Bonacorsi, co-hosts Mary Lynn and Tom Cassidy, Kim Bowles and Jeff Kitterman, Laura Beth Davis, Beni and Dr. Mike Dragutsky, Kelly and Brent Gerhart, Diana and Dr. Riley Jones, Jean and Hal Lewis, Mary and Frank Muscari, Gay and Mike Williams, Janice and Kent Ritchey, Suzanne and Jon Scharff, Susie Thorp and Dr. Brent Addington, Denise and Dr. Ben Wheeler and Kim Williams. Wines poured were Poujeaux, Latour, Lafite, Leoville Las Cases, Cos d’Estournel, Margaux, Pichon Lalande, Leoville Barton, La Conseillante, Haut Bailly, Ducru Beaucaillou, Talbot, Pontet Canet, Poujeaux, Figeac, La Louviere, Haut Brion, Pape Clement, La Lagune, Palmer, Pavie, Montrose, Mouton, Lynche Bages, Cheval Blanc and La Gaffeliere. Multiple wines were rated 100 points by Robert Parker, while all others scored 90+ and 95+ points. Erling’s menu included South Pacific Swordfish Loin on Crispy Dutch Beemster Mac and Cheese, Lobster Glace; Australian Lamb Chop, DijonFoie Gras Jus, Horseradish Beignet; Filet of Angus Beef, Truffle Demi-Glace, Pommes Macaire; Montana Elk Loin on Savory French Toast, Wild Mushroom Reduction; and Parmigiano-Reggiano, French Camembert, Old English Stilton, Blueberry-Cherry Compote, honey roasted walnuts. Benefiting the Brooks Museum of Art, the ‘82 Bordeaux tasting was auctioned at the Memphis Wine + Food Series’ 2012 Grand Auction in May.
AROUND TOWN
June 3, 2012 • By Joy Doss
Farmers Market Brunch at Bleu Restaurant and Lounge
Bleu Restaurant and Lounge was selected to kick off the Farm to Fork season for the Memphis Farmers Market this summer. With Chef Robert Cirillo at the helm, the restaurant presented a prix fixe menu featuring items like his beloved yellow squash and zucchini soup, country fried steak and collard greens and a honey whole wheat bread pudding that was a definite crowd pleaser to the roughly 80 patrons who had gathered to support the effort. As the series implies, each dish was comprised primarily of products from local farms, which in this case including Woodson Ridge, Gracious Gardens, Claybrook, Fletcher, Bonny Blue and several others in the area.
Chef Robert says, “It was a great event; I was thrilled to be a part of it. We’re already looking forward to next year’s series. I’m a big supporter of the Farmers Market. I go to the market every weekend to pick up fresh fruit and vegetables for the restaurant. I’m also what we’ve come to call a locavore- buy local, eat local!”
The cost of the brunch was $35 per person, with a percentage of the proceeds benefiting the Farmers Market.
AROUND TOWN
Heart Full of Soul Dinner at Napa Cafe August 19 & 20, 2012 By Leigh Castellaw On Sunday, August 19th and Monday, August 20th Napa Café hosted its first annual Heart Full of Soul benefit dinners. This fund raiser for Stax Music Academy featured nine wines and six courses prepared by Napa Café’s Chef Dru Kratzke, all paired with specific songs from the Stax catalog. Over thirty students from the Stax Music Academy were on hand to perform the songs live. The students brought the house down! On the second night all of the students did an encore performance of “Proud Mary”. Everyone was on their feet. The event raised $13,084.00 and is sure to be a hot ticket again next year. Tiffany Werne from Frederick Wildman & Sons and Scott Smith from the Wine Market helped pair the wines. P. Ashley Rix from Chocistry provided the dessert course. It was an experience no one will ever forget!
Photos by Ronnie Booze
AROUND TOWN
Silver Oak Celebrates 40 Years With Cross Country
Tower Tour 2012 June 18, 2012
L to R: Peter Margolin, Mr. & Mrs. Tim and Rob Duncan, Oscar Vego, Blake Hazlerig, Charlie Campbell
On Monday, June 18th the Silver Oak Tower Tour stopped in Memphis visiting Graceland, Beale Street and the Peabody. 2012 marks the 40th anniversary of Silver Oak, one of Napa’s most iconic wineries and America’s most loved wine labels. To celebrate, members of the Silver Oak family embarked on the Silver Oak Tower Tour 2012 - a cross country journey to meet customers in person, stopping in sixty cities across the country to host celebratory wine tastings and showcase four decades of the Silver Oak tradition. A replica of Silver Oak’s iconic water tower (prominently featured on the bottle’s label) accompanied the tour, visiting America’s four corners and serving as a backdrop for wine tastings that Silver Oak hosted along the way in its traveling tasting room. The tour commenced on June 5, 2012 from the Silver Oak Alexander Valley winery in Geyserville, California. A custom Airstream towed the water tower the entire trip.
“After 40 years, Silver Oak remains the benchmark of Cabernet Sauvignon – over the years it has created a culture and story that embodies American entrepreneurship and the spirit of the Napa Valley,” said David Duncan, CEO of Silver Oak. “Over that time we’ve created a community of intensely loyal fans across the country. This tour is our unique way of saying thank you by bringing Silver Oak into their communities in a fun way.” Silver Oak partnered with photographer Bill Tucker, an award-winning commercial photographer of 35 years and the creative eye behind many of today’s national advertising campaigns. He was onboard the Tower Tour for its entirety to document the journey and capture images of Silver Oak’s water tower against the backdrop of some of America’s greatest and most beautiful iconic landmarks, such as: Mount Rushmore, the St. Louis Arch, Washington D.C. and the Golden Gate Bridge.
Celebrity Sightings Wine Tasting
AROUND TOWN
Memphis Botanic Garden July 31, 2012
On Tuesday, July 31st, Memphis Botanic Garden rolled out the red carpet for 100 guests at their Celebrity Sightings event, part of a series of monthly wine tastings benefiting the Garden’s youth education programs. Automatic Slim’s provided a delicious spread of hors d’oeuvres to compliment eight wines served throughout the evening. Guests enjoyed their moment in the spotlight at the Celebrity “Faux-to” Booth, posing for candid shots with James Dean, Marilyn Monroe, and Captain James T. Kirk, then took home swag bags filled with samples from Origins and the producers of new movie release Hope Springs. The Garden’s Tuesdays on the Terrace Wine Tasting series features themed events on the last Tuesday of each month, February through October. Visit memphisbotanicgarden.com for upcoming themes and tickets.
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AROUND TOWN
A day at the Farm: Claybrook Farms September 16, 2012
Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia Claybrook Farms hosted A Day at the Farm for family, friends and supporters. Local Chefs from restaurants and hotels were on hand and some participated in cooking lunch and dinner for attendees. Live music was provided by Bean in the late afternoon. The kids and adults enjoyed hay rides through the pastures showing Claybrook Farms and the cattle. Demonstrations by Dr. Tommy Shields of McNeese State University showed the outline of a skeleton highlighting the wholesale cuts of beef on a live animal. And he also presented an ultrasound demo of beef quality on a live animal to show the marbling and ribeye size on a computer screen.
Dr. Tommy Shields of McNeese State University
Chefs Andy and Mike / Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen
Ciao Bella
565 Erin Drive, Memphis, TN 38117 (901)205-2500 Ciaobellamemphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Lamb Burger, Feta, Heirloom tomato with Ghost River battered eggplant “Fries” and the Opolo “Montagna-Mare,” Paso Robles The distinctive flavors in this dish are deserving of a wine with the same uniqueness. Opolo provides just the right balance of fruit and tannin in this blend, with an earthy spice perfect to compliment the freshly ground lamb and a refreshing acid and deep fruit to offset the fried eggplant which itself is a great balance of texture and flavor. The light touch of feta brings everything together.
Braised “Kobe” Gnocchi with Portobello, goat cheese, pine nuts and garden basil with Carpenito “Dogajolo,” IGT, Toscano Predominantly Sangiovese, the Dogajolo is the perfect selection to match this dish. The purity of the acid on the front of the wine cuts the richness from the braise and the gnocchi, while the solid fruit and hints of coffee and vanilla add another layer under the goat cheese and basil and bring a harmonious beauty to this pairing especially when enjoyed with friends.
Pan Seared Snapper over olive oil angel hair with Matt’s wild tomato, baby heirloom and Feta paired with Stag’s Leap “Karia,” Napa Deceptively simple, our snapper is the epitome of classic with wonderfully ripe heirlooms and salty feta to compliment the delicate richness of the fish; we chose an equally layered wine in the “Karia” with a moderate body to match with the snapper and heavy bouquet of honey, orange and lemon oil. The aromatics jump out of the glass and the soft notes of peach and apple add unequivocal depth to the dish.
Jim’s Place Restaurant & Bar
518 Perkins Road Extended, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 766-2030 www.jimsplacememphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Pita bread seared with lemon oregano butter then topped with Grecian seasoned ground lamb, diced tomatoes, crumbled feta cheese and green onions, and served with a tzatziki dipping sauce, perfect with Affligem Blonde Ale. Like a Belgian Pale Ale, the strong versions will also be pale to golden in color. What sets them apart is a much higher alcohol content that can range from hidden to spicy to devastatingly present. Expect a complex and powerful ale, yet delicate with rounded flavors and big, billowy, rocky, white head. Hop and malt character can vary, most are fruity and quite hoppy, but hop flavor and aroma will generally be within the low range and artfully balanced.
Chicken crusted with pecans and our homemade bread crumbs, deep fried and tossed in a lemon oregano dressing along with baby spinach, red onions, crumbled feta cheese and vine ripened tomatoes; paired with Anne Amie Cuvée A “Amrita” Oregon 2011 The name Amrita comes from the Buddhist equivalent of ambrosia, or a wine of the gods. This white wine is a unique inspiration, each harvest crafted from different varieties to be an irresistible, lightly effervescent, fruit-forward wine.
Hand cut ribeye prepared with a Mediterranean dry rub and cooked to your liking then topped with feta cheese and kalamata olives and the Susana Balbo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza 2010 The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is deep ruby in appearance. This wine has concentrated black currant and plum aromas interlaced with complex notes of dark chocolate, mint and toasty oak, and build with a complementary blend of enticing aromas. Well-structured and integrated, the richly woven palate boasts mountain characteristics of intense dark berry and cassis with highlights of bay, anise and mocha. Full and textural, hints of nutmeg and vanilla bean add to the long persistent finish.
COLUMNS “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing� -Ernest Hemingway, Death in the Afternoon Local Experts let loose opinions and facts alike, offering you a multi-faceted view of their world of wine. A window into the minds on the other side of the industry
How To
Write About Wine
Like Robert Parker Jr.
By Chris Kassel – reprinted with permission of the author {Posted on March 3, 2012 , www.intoxreport.com} *Disclaimer: This article is for entertainment, any numerical values included are fictional, satirical, and for illustrative purposes. The article may contain adult themed references.
What’s the dillio with all the RPJ slaggin’, yo? He’s never called women sluts like Rush Limbaugh; he’s never referred to black people as ‘little monkeys’ like Howard Cosell and (as far as I know) he’s never publically announced a nocturnal emission as did the revered Martin Luther King Jr. in his oft-quoted ‘I Have A Wet Dream’ speech. And he’s certainly never claimed that the Soviets have no influence in Eastern Europe like Gerald Ford did (who, as it turned out, was a prophet). Parker Jr. is just a guy who drinks wine and writes about what he thinks about the wine he just drank. If the rest of the world wants to raise or lower the price of Bordeaux futures based on the kind of day he’s having, and if French winemakers decide to change their styles from sharp and austere to fat and oaky, that’s their problem. Me, I couldn’t care less. If Parker thinks that Trinchero Haystack Cabernet ’08 smells like cassis rather than crème de cassis, and if he thinks Côtes du Rhône-Villages Séguret Tradition 2003 smells like crème de cassis instead of cassis, bollocks for him. See, that’s the beauty of wine writing. There’s no fact-checker looking over your shoulder with a career-ending scimitar. If I write that Bo Diddley wrote the Magna Carta, chances are that some English history numbnut is going to call me on it. If I claim that the New York Yankees have lost more World Series than any other franchise in history, my credibility will disappear quicker than an eightball up Lindsay Lohan’s nose. If I announce that Obama intends to deliver the State of the Union address wearing rodeo clown makeup and hoop earrings, tomorrow I won’t even be
able to score a mail-sorting gig at The Onion. On the other hand, if I say that a Vidal-Fleury Côte-Rôtie smells like raspberries and molasses, and you think it smells like burnt tobacco and bacon fat, guaranteed you’re gonna keep your mouth shut—or at least, you won’t call me a liar. Even though, as it happens, I am lying, and I agree with you, not me. This is the beauty of subjective subjects journalism. You’re always right and never wrong. Why in the world would anyone go into anything else?
So, from the outset, Robert Parker Jr.—who did more to make wine criticism a legitimate profession instead of another ratchet in the toolbox of distributors—gets a lifetime pass for anything else squirrely he might do. And in any case, regardless of ‘Parkerization’, it’s his writing style, not his rating system, that interests me—mainly because I can no more afford a ‘57 Domaine de la Romanee Conti than I can a ‘57 Les Paul Custom Black Beauty—at $5 k, both are roughly the same price. And ultimately, I spend about as much time drooling over a 100-point Advocate wine as I do over Zoë Kravitz’s equally inaccessible ladyparts— which is to say, no time at all.
he reviews are, frankly, quite similar. More importantly perhaps, there are inescapable limitations inherent in writing in English. The Oxford English Dictionary lists approximately 300,000 main entries, which is really not a shitload; considering that, as a word count, this web site easily contains that many. Shakespeare is said to have had a vocabulary of about 25,000 words, about the same as a 21st century college grad, although that doesn’t include different senses, inflected forms and compounds so, for each, maybe 60,000 in total. I have no idea how large RPJ’s vocabulary is, or how many wine words he’s written over the centuries—but I do know that he has a tendency to use the same ones over and over and over and… But That’s A Good Thing, People! Why? Because it places within your very grasp the literary prowess of the single most influential wine writer in the history of everything.
But as a guy who writes about wine, I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time reading other (readable) wine writers, and among them, there’s only a handful who can manage the odd je ne sais quoi alchemy that turns word to image and phrase to flavor.
On the next page, as a free service to anyone with the stoicism to read this far, I’ve listed a number of Robert Parker Jr.’s favorite terms and concepts along with what they mean and how frequently he uses them. Tag any or all onto your own wine descriptions, in any order whatsoever, for whatever bottle you want, because, remember, kids—you’re a wine critic, not a baseball statistician, and therefore… nobody can call bullshit!
Parker Jr. is right up there with the best.
And if all else fails, go with bacon fat.
That said, I have most certainly noticed the substantial level of repetition in his descriptors, which may or may not be an acceptable reality based on the fact that a lot of the wines
COLUMNS
In Alphabetical Order: *Usage = Number of times RPJ has, over his career, used this particular description in the written commentary accompanying his wine ratings.
as an awful long time to leave a bottle of wine open.
to a canapé toothpick that somehow fell into your glass.
Graphite (usage: 37,345 ): Hey! We can use the graphite to draw up the blueprints for the Appian Way project!
Saturated (usage = 103, 782): In RPJ-speak, anything can be saturated—colors, aromas, fruits—even blouses in the latter stages of a tasting—especially among folks who insist on chewing wine with their mouths open.
Acacia Flowers (usage = 12,845): Acacia grows throughout less than half the United States, and certainly not up here in the Great White North. So, whereas I’m sure acacia flowers smell scrumptious, whenever I see this characterization—which is endlessly—I think, ‘Whatevs…’
Hitting On All Cylinders (usage = 826): Just as you may make up words like ‘Chablisean’, as a wine writer you may also make up idioms like ‘hitting on all cylinders’—even if they end up making less sense than the genuine expression, which is ‘firing on all cylinders’.
Black Currants (usage = 106,966 ): Sometimes the description dangles as ‘currants’, and sometimes they’re white or red instead of black, but either way, I couldn’t identify a currant if it was arsenic blue.
Lanolin-Like (usage = 2,455): Nice alliteration, RPJ, but WTF?? Lanolin is the crap secreted by the sebaceous glands of lambs—it’s thick, greasy ruminant sweat. I’m no Prohibitionist, sister, but trust me on this: Lips that touch sheep ooze will never touch mine.
Briery (usage = 3,380): Our friends at Oxford again: A wild bush with thorns. All righty, then. Can’t say as I relate to such a taste on any level whatsoever, but what the hay—some people like Nickelback. ‘Briery’ is, nonetheless, often used to describe zinfandels. Cassis (usage = 19,651): Oxford: A strong sweet alcoholic drink made with (wait for this) black currants. Versus Crème de Cassis (usage = 26,004): A strong sweet alcoholic drink made with black currants. Cedarwood (usage = 9,767): Cedarwood is like ‘tunafish’. Is naming the genus along with the species really necessary? Yes, we know that cedar is a wood just as we know that tuna is a fish. Now, excuse me while I go feed my golden retrieverdog. Chablisean-Styled (usage = 1,567): Again, pour quoi the superfluous letters? For the record, the term indicates a crisp, generally oak-free chardonnay, but I swear Parker made up ‘Chablisean’. And why? To be weird? I mean, isn’t Chablis-Style an easier concept for Jane and John Middle America to grasp? Chewy (usage = 17,324): Obviously he’s not referring to Chewbacca flavors, because for all he knows, Wookie tastes like nookie. So, it’s got to have something to do with tannin. In any case, if you insist on chewing your wine, do it at least ten times before you spit it into the tasting bucket. And please? With your mouth closed. Crushed Stone (usage = 29, 274): In common wine descriptors, you’ve got your crushed stone, your wet stone, your slate, your gravel, your flint… Christ, if this keeps up we should be able to repave the Appian Way by Christmas. Drink It Over The Next 10-15 Years (usage = 75,468): Robert knows best, but this strikes me
Lemon Zest And A Hint Of Citrus Oil (usage = 132 ): Since citrus oil is basically smooshedup lemon zest, any palate that can pick out a quantity of one and just a ‘hint’ of the other is truly amazing. Although here’s my ‘hint’: I’m not buying it. Licorice (usage = 56,934): Good ‘n’ Plenty, Good ‘n’ Plenty. In fact, this is a fleeting, but distinct ‘nuance’ flavor in tons of red wines. A lot of it comes from the oak used in aging, but the Spanish grape cariñena shows this odd, savory flavor quite prominently by itself. Mocha, Espresso Roast, Chocolate (usage: 97,118): Since mocha is, of course, a blend of espresso and chocolate, is there any real need to use all three if you are not being paid by the word? Road Tar (usage = 16,433): This is another descriptor that makes me go ‘huh’? ‘Tarmac’ or ‘asphalt’ don’t really sound more appetizing than ‘road tar’, but at least I can think of them without free-associating an image of Fido splattered from here to the next fire hydrant. Roasted Herb (usage = 9,383): I don’t roast herbs, do you roast herbs? I roast beef and pork and chicken that are festooned with herbs, but then the room smells like roast beef or roast pork or roast chicken. Pain Grillé (usage = 11,513): Dude, you’re not from Aix-en-Provence, you’re from Baltimore, so if you mean ‘toast’, say ‘toast’. If I have to go to Babelfish to translate a friggin’ wine review, you are making me work way, way too hard. Palate Penetration (usage = 3,824): Does not refer to Linda Lovelace, and is generally preceded by the word ‘excellent’, but if it is preceded by ‘extremely painful’, it may refer
Spice Box (usage = 48,760): A nice blanket term that covers a variety of pie-type spices; sometimes, you’ll see these wine flavors listed as ‘pumpkin pie spices’ instead. Obviously, this would cover cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and allspice. But, as in ‘mocha’, if you’re being paid by the word, splurge and lay them all out on the table. Spring Flowers (usage = 96,256): When I trained as a sommelier, we were not allowed to say ‘black fruit’ to describe a wine, we’d have to get all specific and say blackberry, black cherry and yeah, well, black currant. Likewise, ‘stone fruit’ wasn’t good enough: It was either peach or apricot or some other damned drupe. So, I looked up ‘spring flowers’ on Wiki, and found references to approximately forty million individual flower species that bloom in the spring. Come on, Parker—get with the program. Sweet Leather (usage = 4,212): Two words that have absolutely no reason to be paired together; the Lyle Lovett/Julia Roberts of wine descriptions. Tannins: Can be dusty (usage = 5,099), wellintegrated (usage = 18,549), grainy (usage = 22,466), velvety (usage = 35,403), ultrafine (usage = 13,766) or elevated (usage = 4,376). Lots of shite you can do with tannins, apparently. Tobacco Leaf (usage = 87,233): What’s bad for the lungs is apparently good for the PessacLéognan. Truffles (usage: 51,489): This hideous-looking fungus is used soley as a model to describe expensive reds. The cheap stuff is said to have the bouquet of button mushrooms that fell out of your Kroger bag and sat for a week in the boot of your car.
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Cultivator of Bourbon Anna Katherine: Midtown Memphis raised University of Tennessee graduate who learned the craft of mixology in Atlanta, GA. My favorite pastime is entertaining friends and family with food and drink hand crafted with love. Why I love making bourbon cocktails vs whiskey: When making hand crafted cocktails we always want to offer our guests and loved ones the best. Bourbon is that liquor aged, crafted and considered for quality. The char of the barrels gives great vanilla and caramel favors to play against when crafting cocktails. Why I love Four Roses: A bourbon that reached its height of popularity and production during the 1930’s and 40’s couldn’t be any more authentic for crafting drinks from this era. Not only is the quality of Four Roses superb, but it’s able to stand up against the quality fresh ingredients we like to use at Twelve Bar without getting lost.
The Ward Eight 2oz Four Roses 1/2oz honey syrup 1/4oz house-made grenadine 1/4oz fresh lemon juice 1/4 oz fresh grapefruit juice In the bottom of a glass muddle one large slice lemon and grapefruit with the honey syrup. Fill with ice and add remaining ingredients pouring the bourbon last. Shake hard and strain over one large rock in rocks glass. Garnish with lemon twist.
Four Roses Old-Fashioned Eggnog Beat separately yolks and whites of 6 eggs. Add 1/2 cup of sugar to yolks while beating. Add 1/4 cup of sugar to whites after they have been beaten very stiff. Mix egg whites with yolks. Stir in 1 pint of cream and 1 pint of milk. Add a pint of Four Roses and 1 oz. Jamaica Rum. Stir thoroughly. Makes 5 pints of the grandest eggnog ever ladled into a cup. Serve very cold with grated nutmeg. Four Roses recipe from 1937.
Four Roses Rose’rita 2 parts Margarita Mix 1 part Four Roses Bourbon Mix over ice Add dash of Grenadine, do not mix. The red color will settle near the bottom of the glass for a nice multi-color effect. Garnish with maraschino cherries.
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Photo by Maggie McLendon.
The
Idea
of Great Wines & Spirits
Gary Burhop, owner of Great Wines & Spirits 6150 Poplar Ave. Memphis, TN 38119 • 901.682.1333 Monday- Saturday 9:30a.m. - 9:30p.m.
When we opened Great Wines & Spirits in 2000, I was quoted as saying that “after nearly 30 years of business travel to countless cities and an equally large number of visits to retail wine and liquor stores on those travels, I really wanted to create a store that I would like to shop.” That remains our mission, but we do cater to all - from the beginner, to the intermediate and the seasoned wine and spirits drinker. Having people develop an interest or a passion for our products is what we love. - Gar y Burhop, owner
Saturday Wine Tastings Nearly every Saturday we conduct wine tastings, and on occasion spirits, at SALSA restaurant, adjacent to Great Wines & Spirits, in Regalia Center. The format is informal - drop by and taste at your own speed asking questions as you go. We typically have 12 to 14 different wines or spirits, always built around a theme, for you to taste. A fee of $10 per person is charged, with $5 credited towards any same day purchase at Great Wines. Appetizers and clean-up by SALSA is covered by the other $5. For a complete list of scheduled tastings, visit www.greatwinesmemphis.com, or call the store at 901682-1333 Join our E-mail list Join our email list for a weekly reminder of our Saturday Tastings, dinners we co-host with area restaurants and special offers. Our e-mails often give you the chance to order extremely limited products or REAL deals we come across. Visit our website or the store to join. Full Service – Liquor and Wines Great Wines & Spirits offers most, if not all, of the popular spirits brands. We pride ourselves on having the most comprehensive selection of Scotch, Whisky and Bourbons. Our selection of wines come from around the globe and cover all price points from $4.99 to several hundred dollars. On any given day, we will stock over 5,000 different labels, and then still not have everything available in the market. However, if a wine is available, we will gladly order the wine for you whether it be a bottle, a case, or more. Helpful, friendly staff Ask for help or suggestions, and you will never be ignored. We like our products, have tasted and approved of them before they were stocked. We are ‘foodies’ and have a sense of good and interesting food and wine pairings. For cocktail fans, we strive to have the latest in components and a staff who enjoys mixing drinks.
Special orders We are happy to try and locate a particular wine or spirit for you. Our distributors, from whom we purchase products, often stock only a few items in their supplier’s portfolio, meaning that we can sometimes locate what you desire and special order it for you. Event Planning Whether it is a dinner party, wedding reception, Bar or Bat Mitzvah or open house, we help you plan and purchase accordingly. Wedding Registry For many who are already established, household-related wedding gifts are unnecessary. An alternative is to utilize our wedding registry and stock a bar or have wine(s) to enjoy with your new mate and friends. See our website for details or visit Great Wines and then advise your invitees that you are registered at Great Wines & Spirits. CorksCrew Monthly Wine Club – for the novice, the expert and the impossible… The trouble with mail-order wine clubs is that many utilize ‘made up labels’ that you can never find again if you happen to like the wine. The CorksCrew wine club offers interesting wines from reputable producers that are selected for members based on exceptional quality and fair pricing. They may be new, limited in supply or just plain unusually good, but each month they offer a great value. Memberships can be from about $20, $25, $50 or more. This is a great way to try wine you might not buy on your own or a terrific and appreciated gift for those who have all the worldly goods they need. Try a CorksCrew gift membership for holidays, anniversaries, birthdays, graduations or just because.
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‘Tis the
Season
So here I sit with a glass of yet-to-be-released Prosecco (Enza) at my side with another rerun of Julie & Julia playing in the background. This is the absolute perfect time to talk about a few holiday wine choices, don’t you think? Wine, like leaves, needs to change and adapt with the seasons. Crisp, lighter summer whites are replaced with fuller bodied Chardonnays. Red wines seem to have more flexibility; Shiraz can handle BBQ and Turkey while Pinot Noir seems to fare well from summer to fall. Beaujolais is the king of the fall. Cabernet Sauvignon seems to come into its own. Through all of this, here are my suggestions for holiday wine options with food pairings beyond the obvious. Rhone Valley Wines: The Rhone Valley of France provides some rustic reds and uniquely strong-willed whites that can spice up any holiday occasion. As you know, the Rhone Valley is split into two areas—the north and south. Northern Rhone features primarily Syrah as its red grape. On the white side, you’ll find Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. There are two AOC’s in Northern Rhone that use 100% Viognier (Condrieu and Chateau-Grillet) but every other area blends. In fact, they will even blend some Viognier in the Syrah! Southern Rhone Reds are a combination of many different grapes— Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan, Cinsault, etc—all of them in various percentages depending on the AOC. White grapes are generally unknown except for geeks like me. Roussanne is a carryover from the north. Picpoul and Ugni Blanc might be two grapes of which you may or may not have heard. While there are many producers from the Rhone, the one I am most familiar with and fond of is Vidal-Fleury. The Guigal family has invested in this producer and consequently they have modernized the facility without losing the history and tradition that becomes this gem. If you’re looking for specific wines, try the Vidal Fleury Vacqueryas or Ventoux; both of these wines blend Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre and provide excellent bang for the buck as does its Cotes du Rhone Red. Chateauneuf-du-Pape is probably the most well known and fares well but, in a budget-conscious economy, only you can decide. California: The obvious choices here, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, really do shine from now through the winter season. You can never go wrong on any holiday table with the big, bold flavors that these varietals offer to warm the soul on chilly nights. A few producers you might not have tried are Joseph Carr and The Calling. Joseph Carr has a Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and a Napa County Cabernet Sauvignon. Mr. Carr uses 100% French oak and even blends some Merlot and Cabernet Franc into his Cab. The Calling is a brand new venture for sports icon, Jim Nance, and CEO of Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, Peter Deutsch. The Calling consists of only two varietals currently: a Dutton Ranch Chardonnay and an Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Overseeing the production is world-renowned winemaker Marco DiGiulio. Mr. DiGiulio has been making world-class wines for years, specifically Cabernet Sauvignon. He is also the person behind the Girard brand. If you have not tasted Girard’s Cab or their Bordeaux style blend, Artistry, then it’s time you did. These wines compete with the big boys (Caymus, Silver Oak, Heitz etc…) but at only half the price. Two other red varietals that work brilliantly during the holidays are Pinot Noir and Zinfandel. Pinot Noir has been a staple on most Thanksgiving feasts for decades. For wine lovers who do not like the weight and tannins of Cab, Pinot Noir provides fruit and elegance that might not be found in a rugged Cab. Windsor-Sonoma, Russian River Pinot Noir is one of the best Pinots in its price point. If you’re looking for a more value driven Pinot, go with one of the hottest in the market, Hob Nob. It’s French in origin but New World style in execution. Also, Zinfandel is finally making a comeback! Old school Zin had spice and character and not just extracted fruit. Finally, California is catching on. Kunde, Sonoma Valley Zinfandel holds true to the essence of what Zinfandel should be. This is estate grown fruit from one of the few remaining family-owned wineries in Sonoma. Zinfandel is one of the most versatile grapes when pairing with food—from BBQ to game meats, Zin can work the magic as well as any wine available.
Australia: The Land Down Under is home to many grapes but one red remains supreme—Shiraz. Shiraz is Syrah (Rhone Valley anyone?) with another name yet the Australian’s version of Syrah is unique unto itself. A blast of fruit on the initial taste with some spice and tannins mixed in. The value version of Shiraz is not really known for a lingering finish but its popularity was easy to dissect. It provided fruit and tannins so multiple wine lovers didn’t have to choose either/or. There is also some sparkling Shiraz that is available in the market if you dare to experiment. And speaking of dares, I have a suggestion for your next party if you are so inclined; purchase a bottle of “The Reserve” Shiraz by Yellowtail. Yes, you read that right! Open it and place the bottle in a brown bag before your guests arrive. Taste your red wine friends and get their opinion before you show them the label. I have put this wine up against other well-known Shiraz producers in the same price point. The Reserve has won every time! Beaujolais: Loved by the French but not fully understood by Americans, this region features the Gamay grape, in all its jammy fruit and nuanced character. I was a convert to this grape in 2007. I was fortunate enough to attend a Georges Duboeuf Cru tasting in Nashville and I’ve been a fan ever since. Sure, the fruit is prominent but, when you pair BeaujolaisVillage (grapes from 38 villages) with Thanksgiving turkey, cranberry and all the trimmings, you begin to see the potential of this grape grown just south of Burgundy. This wine is not just for Thanksgiving. I drank it over the summer with burgers and BBQ and it held up beautifully. I don’t want to go into too much detail on the 10 Crus of Duboeuf since there is a story about them in this issue, but I don’t believe you can truly be an oenophile until you understand this wine region. Bubbles: It’s a holiday. It’s festive! But there are so many sparkling wines to choose from, where does one begin? First, let’s differentiate between Champagne and sparkling wine. All Champagne is sparkling wine but not all sparkling wine is Champagne. Champagne is a region while sparkling wine is a category. Make sense? There are too many options to go into great detail, but suffice it to say, you will bring more smiles to faces with any one of these listed. Prosecco – Italian sparkling wine, usually lighter and sometimes more sweet. There are a few producers out there but look for Enza Prosecco coming to the market in December. It’s a dry style so it will be more Champagne or California sparkling-like and not as sweet. Cava – This is Spanish sparkling wine that is made with three unique grapes of Spain. By law, Cavas have to be made in the same method that Champagne is made but, usually at less than half the cost! It’s generally quite dry and certainly not as elegant as the French counterpart but provides a great value. California sparkling wine – Gorgeous in its’ own right but definitely provides an alternative to true Champagne. Check with your retailer on the best bang for the buck. Schramsberg is one of my personal favorites. Champagne – It really doesn’t get any better than this. Champagne can help you to celebrate a great day or can make a horrible day not seem so bad! With Champagne, you really never want to skimp—pay the money. It should be worth it. My favorite producer? Pol Roger. But I never turn down quality Champagne. So there you have it. Enjoy your fall/winter and I trust you are going to try some new options for the season—you’ll be glad you did. In the words of Julia Child…Bon Appétit!! By Jimmy Collins, District Manager-Tennessee for WJ Deutsch & Sons Ltd.
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Expanding Your Palate & Other Aromatic Ridiculousness
By Chris Thorn
I have smelt sweaty socks, eaten dirt, licked various rocks and received a grease burn on my forehead trying to understand what smoking bacon fat would smell like. I have done all this in the name of wine, all so I could better understand the nuisances of Cote-Rotie and the pure minerality of Sancerre. I have drunk bad wine; corked wine, turned wine and one time some wine I heated in the microwave. I have tasted bottles that had been opened so long the EPA refused to test because of possible high toxicity; all so I could understand the other end of the spectrum from a ‘47 Pichon or a ‘61 Latour. This annoying habit of licking, smelling, and tasting things that the producers of Bizarre foods would not let Zimmern eat, for one reason; so I can impress you! I do not usually encourage this abstract ridiculousness unless you are a complete wine geek, and if you are, chances are you have done a few of these or other things eerily similar in the name of a crazy passion (read: obsession). For those that are not gung-ho about getting nose to ground over some cow stuff or being anywhere near a place that might help them develop an understanding of “Barnyard” Fret Not! There are much more sensible endeavors you can undertake. Increasing your wine vernacular is not the most difficult thing in the world. Shakespearean eloquence is not needed to expand your wine vocabulary, unless of course you are a wine writer. Confidence and simply paying attention to items general to everyday is the key. To expand your palate is easy, the next time you eat anything, take a moment to jot down a mental note about aroma and flavor and that way the next time wine graces your lips, as you let it roll over your tongue, those memories will be naturally invigorated and all you have to do is be honest about what you taste. When it comes to describing various elements of wine, fruit and basic spices are the most dominate aromas and flavors in wine on a global scale, ranging from citrus to stone fruits to the more exotic guava, mango, and bananas in whites. Red wines can be envisioned with a variety of berries and cherries, plums and with various cooking techniques applied to them. Spices usually include a broader range: from 8 different colors of peppercorns (they really almost all smell the same) to the various combinations of fall or baking spices typically seen as cinnamon, nutmeg, and occasionally clove. Then we move into the spice blends; Chinese 5 spice, pumpkin spice, apple spice, and even posh spice (not really, but who doesn’t love a poke at bad pop music). In white wines “spice” is undoubtedly more floral and natural, and can include a certain rockiness most often referred to as “minerality”. Having a general idea of terms typically utilized in descriptions only helps to build confidence; there is no right or wrong answer in the overall scheme of things.
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Why Memphis needs Cork iT magazine: An open letter By Andrew Fischer
Before we proceed at any great length, let me first champion a disclaimer that I have not been approached to write an article within a publication about said publication. My contribution stems from a place of honesty and passion for the industry at large which is something, dear reader, I dare say we share in common being that you yourself have elected to pick up this magazine and peruse its pages. I am a business operator, so this stuff is inherently important to me, but first and foremost I am a consumer. I have enjoyed a decade now in this industry fulfilling many facets of the job but within those years I have also developed a passion for wine and spirits and an insatiable “thirst” to grow within it and learn and experience all that it has to offer. Cork iT has enjoyed several issues of publication and within those it too has grown leaps and bounds in its content, education, and philanthropic endeavors to reach the Memphis community as a whole. I can recall as a bartender having conversations with Cork iT’s now creator(s) as all of these quires and concepts were beginning to take shape and questions were asked as to whether Memphis cared, were there others like us that needed a guiding hand, could a publication such as we’ve come to know as Cork iT have any kind of sustainability and now as yet another issue is coming off the presses we see those ambitions and endeavors augment in fruition. This has been a labor of selfless love by those that have contributed and as I sit down to write this I am reminded that seldom have I encountered a more driven group of individuals that welcome the feedback, input, and exhaustive retooling concepts required to find the one that will resonate with this community and its readership. The best summation of a zine, which I consider this to be, is its ethos centralizes around a hands on approach of disseminating a message outside of the current (Memphis) media and whose time and materials necessary to create are not matched by revenue, since it is a free publication. I know that those more akin to the conceptual analysis of zines will take issue with this as it’s edited and scripted with diligence and printed on high gloss presses, etc… but when we break down the roguish nature of zines what we find is a unifying theory and that’s what draws the public in, the pretense that perhaps this is “the” truth if not a truth otherwise glossed over or ignored by mainstream media. At its advent and to date there was and still is no other publication capable of rival on this content. Clearly there is a need if not a yearning for the content contained within these pages as the public has supported it by picking it up and the contributors be it advertising on otherwise have repeatedly opened their checkbooks and schedules to make it happen.
For too long the perception of the Memphis beverage market has been stale and antiquated. Other, even neighboring cities have developed and driven the trends and Memphis has adopted these in a delayed fashion and with a hesitation and “understanding” that our palates and prowess were less developed and sophisticated. To much acclaim as of late we’ve ushered in a new era of prestige and recognition with our culinary pedigree as diners have come to expect more from their chefs but one truth resonates on the cusp of this and that is if we’re unwilling to accept mediocrity in our food why are we marginalizing our beverage programs. Cork iT has attempted to bridge this gap by first creating awareness and then trying to educate and it has done so via the input of restaurateurs, chefs, collectors, on-premise salesman and you the public. Cork iT has thus become the great equalizer by putting it all on the table and allowing each at their own pace and acceptance to come to the proverbial well. Novice and experienced consumers alike can see what is available, up and coming, read exposés from the industry, and become more akin to the individuals driving, serving, selling and creating the industry. Internally within the industry though we are a tight knit community that further allows us to learn from one another as well as see and hear what our guests are looking for and interested in so that we too may cross pollinate and grow in service. When we talk about wine makers, brew masters, and distillers who have a passion for something too often we discredit the ones who recognize and champion these efforts in marketing and sales as they’re often seen as just that, salesman and entrepreneurs. But for many it’s also a true passion and they themselves were probably consumers first. In writing this I’ve been challenged, as Cork iT covers so many different facets of the industry, how do you hone in on the ones that are important? Cork iT has simplified and consolidated it all into one, where every aspect, contribution, vantage point, article, exposé, tasting note… is relevant to us, Memphis. It’s relevant to what we’re doing. It’s relevant because we choose to consume, we choose to partake in an industry that is bigger than us and through the pages of this zine that community is presented and becoming more approachable. Cork iT is fighting for you Memphis, for a more ambitious profile, a more educated public, a more diverse conversation where we will end as more satisfied consumers.
Untamed Fredric Koeppel style The element that links the first geographically and varietally diverse group of wines from Spain is their importer, Classical Wines of Spain, based in Seattle. The other theme common to these Spanish wines is unusually fair prices, even to the bargain level. The second group consists of wines from Piedmont made by the well-known producer Michele Chiarlo and imported by Kobrand Corp. in Purchase, N.Y. These bottles were provided by the local wholesale house Victor L. Robilio Co., Inc./Glazer’s. The Viña Reboreda 2011, Ribeira, offers a delicate bouquet but feels quite robust in the mouth, perhaps due to its blend of 40 percent treixadura grapes and 20 percent each godello, torrontés and palomino. The color is pale straw-gold; clean, fresh aromas of roasted lemons and spiced pears are permeated by hints of dried thyme and limestone. Bracing acidity keeps the wine taut, though the texture indulges in lushness that feels almost powdery, like electrified talcum powder; citrus and stone-fruit flavors persist through a finish that pours on the limestone. 11.5 percent alcohol. Ribeira is in Galicia, in Spain’s extreme northwest corner, above Portugal. Very Good+. About $13. The color of the Viña Zorzal Garnacha 2011, a rosato from Navarra, is an entrancing bright cherry magenta; this is pure raspberry and strawberry, with a touch of watermelon and mulberry. It’s darker and more full-bodied than most rosés, more like a Clairette from Bordeaux, and it reveals notes of briers and slate for an earthy undertone. Quite charming, but nothing light or delicate. 13 percent alcohol. Navarra lies in northeastern Spain, not far southwest of the Pyrenees. Very Good+. About $13. The bobal grape, largely employed for bulk wines, gets little love either from winemakers or the press, but in the right hands it can be made into a rustic but appealing wine. Such a one is the 11 Piños Bobal Old Vines 2010, from the Manchuela region in vast Castilla-La Mancha, southwest of Madrid and right in the heart of Spain. The color is medium ruby-purple; the nose teems with notes of cedar and thyme, black olives, ripe and spicy black cherries and plums that are a tad roasted and fleshy, all elevated by a morsel of caramelized fennel and graphite minerality. Matters are very similar in the mouth, where plenty of dusty, grainy, velvety tannins are bolstered by a background of wood and woody spice. 13 percent alcohol. Begs for grilled meat: lamb, pork, goat. Very Good+. About $13. A cousin, in a sense, to the rosato mentioned previously, the Viña Zorzal Garnacha Viñas Viejas 2010, Navarra – the vines are about 50 years old – sports a dark ruby-purple color with a magentaviolet rim and a bouquet that’s deep, ripe, fleshy and meaty with its spiced and macerated black currants and cherries and plums. Black and blue fruit flavors are drenched with baking spices,
potpourri and licorice and toughened by dry, dusty grainy tannins that coat the mouth, all sliced by a streak of shale and flint-like minerality. Robust and rustic, to be sure, and with a finish that falls a bit short. Still, very enjoyable with grilled meat. 13.5 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $15. The blend of grapes in the Bodegas Carchelo “C” 2010, Jumilla – 40 percent monastrell (the French mourvèdre), 40 percent syrah and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon – indicates a modern vision for the wine, since it’s a combination of grapes, not necessarily in the same proportion, that could be found in the South of France, in parts of Italy, in California or Washington, in Argentina or Australia. The color is deep dark ruby-purple; aromas of ripe, smoky and spicy black currents, blackberries and blueberries are seductively woven with graphite, lavender and violets, cloves and sandalwood and just an edge of black olive and bell pepper. The wine is robust to the point of being broadshouldered and burly; lip-smacking acidity and dusty tannins support and temper a black and blue fruit basket of sweet ripeness. The finish is long, mineral-lashed and slightly astringent. This could wait a year or two, unless you’re drinking it with a medium rare rib-eye steak, hot and crusty from the grill. 14 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $17, an Incredible Bargain. Get ready for a sugar rush. The Casta Diva Cosecha Miel 2009, Alicante, from Bodegas Gutierrez de la Vega, offers a brassy gold color and an unabashedly loveable bouquet of very ripe peaches and apricots, baked pineapple, cloves, honeysuckle, orange rind and roasted almonds and, yes, a hint of toasted coconut. The grape is Muscat of Alexandria; the wine fermented and aged in new oak. It’s dense and chewy, almost viscous, in the mouth, and the effect is like biting into one of those orange jellied candies with crunchy sugar coating the outside, and I mean that in the best way. This is coupled with hints of Bananas Foster (complete with the flaming rum) and crème brûlée, all energized by sizzling acidity that leads to a dry, spice-packed finish. Quite a performance, and a few sips are all the dessert you need. 14 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $33 for a 500-milliliter bottle. Made all in stainless steel tanks from 100 percent cortese grapes, the Michele Chiarlo Le Marne Gavi 2011 is a pale gold color and offers attractive aromas of baked apple and roasted lemon with notes of dried thyme, verbena and lemon balm. The wine flaunts vitalizing elements of sea-salt, chalk and limestone throughout, while additional liveliness is contributed by tart lemony flavors and crisp acidity. This is dry, full-bodied, vigorous and delicious. Consistently one of the best Gavis. 12 percent alcohol. Excellent. About $20. Many Barbera d’Asti wines are aged in small French barriques nowadays, but Michele Chiarlo
Fredric Koeppel writes the Biggerthanyourhead.NET blog
COLUMNS
treads the old path of aging in large casks for its Le Orme 2010, Barbera d’Asti Superiore, so the oak influence stays in the background. The color is medium cherry-ruby; the nose offers a beguiling mélange of smoky and sweetly ripe red cherries and red currants with hints of blueberry and mulberry; there are undertones of violets and potpourri and gentle touches of briers and graphite-like minerality. These elements segue smoothly into the mouth, where they are supported by moderately chewy tannins, bright acidity and subdued granitic earthiness. 14 percent alcohol. We happily drank this with a tomato-red pepperarugula soup with black olive croutons. Excellent. About $15, marking Great Value. The Michele Chiarlo Reyna Barbaresco 2009, made from 100 percent nebbiolo grapes, as is required, delivers a beautiful medium ruby color with a slightly lighter rim, the point being that the wine is not deeply extracted as so often happens in Piedmont now. Red and black cherries, plums, tar, thyme and cedar, a hint of pine resin: it all feels classic, restrained, elegant. After a few moments in the glass, the wine begins to assert its frame and structure more, and you feel the subtle and supple effect of the French and Slovenian oak in the form of a sleek texture and a burgeoning sense of woody spice and finely-knit tannins. 14 percent alcohol. This is lovely, distinctly non-blockbuster style of Barbaresco that could age a couple of years and then drink beautifully through 2020 to ’23. Excellent. About $40. I wasn’t quite as convinced by the Michele Chiarlo Tortoniano Barolo 2008, since Barolo is a wine that needs some depth and dimension, some rigor in its DNA while retaining an abundance of fruit, even in the form of potential. The color here is medium ruby with a lighter garnet rim. The wine is large-framed, woody, spicy, dry and earthy – it spent two years in large oak casks – and what I miss is the feeling of pent energy, deep resonance and generous power that the best nebbiolo wines embody. Perhaps this needs more time, though we’re four years down the road now. Try from 2015 or ’16 through, if all goes well, 2020 to ’28. 14 percent alcohol. Very Good+. About $53. Now this is just a real sweetheart. The Michele Chiarlo Nivole 2011, Moscato d’Asti, is cloud-like, indeed -- nivole is “cloud” in Italian – in its delicacy and elegance and soft fruitiness. The color is pale straw-gold; the wine is modestly effervescent, with just enough spritz to keep it lively and engaging. Scents and flavors of green apple, peach and pear, orange blossom and orange rind are delineated in a refined manner, yet the wine’s texture is dense and almost viscous and the finish, supplemented by zinging acidity, is dry and spicy. 5 percent alcohol. A very pretty, slightly sparkling wine appropriate for the simplest desserts: an unadorned apple tart, a plateful of biscotti. Very Good+. About $13 for a 375 ml half-bottle.
COLUMNS
Tennessee Kentucky vs
By Jim Rutledge Master Distiller, Four Roses Distillery
The title of the article sounds like an intro to a football or basketball game between rival universities, but no I’m actually referring to Tennessee whiskey and Kentucky Bourbon whiskey. As I travel through the U.S. markets Tennessee whiskey is more often than not considered a Bourbon whiskey. This misconception is even more prevalent in European and Japanese markets, but there is a difference – not a lot, but a difference.
Tennessee Whiskey and Kentucky Bourbon both have storied histories dating back to the days when the two states were the western frontier of the growing United States of America. In those early years many of the settlers were from the old country and brought their expertise of distillation and their equipment with them to start new beginnings in a new country. Farmers often found it easier to store their harvested grains from one growing season to the next in liquid form stored in oak barrels. Producers of good corn whiskey began to market their spirits in the primary port of trade, New Orleans, and buyers of various types of beverage alcohol began requesting that good whiskey from Bourbon County, KY; hence, the origin of Kentucky
Bourbon. It’s interesting to note that today’s Bourbon County is dry, but in the 18th century Bourbon County comprised about 20 percent of the entire state of Kentucky. The county was subsequently divided into 26 counties. Tennessee whiskey may be produced anywhere in the state, but the vast majority is produced in Lynchburg – located in Moore County, also dry. Bourbon was made only in Kentucky for many years, but in 1964 a bill was introduced to the U.S. Congress that declared Bourbon a product distinctive to the United States of America. The bill was overwhelmingly passed and from that year forward Bourbon could be made in any of our 50 states; however, although there are now nearly 400 small craft distilleries in the United States and the majority of owners aspiring to produce quality Bourbon whiskey more than 95% of all Bourbon remains to be distilled, aged and bottled by the eight major producing Bourbon distilleries in Kentucky. Since Bourbon whiskey was unique to Kentucky, Tennessee whiskey took on its own identity. Basically, the two processes differ only by the filtration of Tennessee whiskey prior to barreling. Both spirits are straight whiskeys which means the mashbill (grain recipe) must include a minimum of 51% of the primary grain (corn,) the distillate, often referred to as “white dog,” must be distilled at less than 160 proof (80% alcohol,) aged a minimum of two years in new oak barrels which have been charred on the inside, and filled into barrels at no greater than 125 proof. (White oak barrels are used almost
extensively to age both whiskeys because natural sugars are plentiful, relative to other varieties of oak, and white oak holds liquid more securely, with less leakage, than most varieties of oak wood.) Bourbon has one more requirement: the flavor and color of Bourbon may not be adulterated in any fashion – the process is 100% natural. It is argued that since Tennessee whiskey is filtered through a bed of charcoaled sugar maple wood prior to barreling it cannot be classed as Bourbon since some of the flavors generated in fermentation have been removed via filtration. But, who cares? Tennessee whiskey is what it is and naturally the producers do not want their product classed as Tennessee Bourbon whiskey. It would change a long-standing tradition of a historic whiskey. (Interestingly enough, Wikipedia encyclopedia lists Tennessee whiskey as a Bourbon sour mash whiskey. Is there any wonder why confusion exists – is Tennessee whiskey a Bourbon whiskey, or not? No, Tennessee Whiskey is not Bourbon.) Although the total case volume of Kentucky Bourbon whiskeys may exceed the total cases sold of Tennessee Whiskey, the number one selling American whiskey brand in the world is Jack Daniel’s Sour Mash Whiskey. Both whiskeys are American traditions and icons in the distilled spirits industry and vital to their respective states’ economy. Tennesseans and Kentuckians alike can and should be very proud of their state’s whiskey brands and signature industries, and the global notoriety our home-grown products bring to our country and especially our two states. When you drink Kentucky Bourbon whiskey, Tennessee whiskey or any beverage alcohol please do so responsibly and with moderation.
Photography & Videography
Ande Demetriou is the exclusive photographer for Cork It magazine
901-213-7890 ande@geminimm.com
Houston’s Restaurant
5000 Poplar Avenue, Memphis TN 38117 (901)683.0915 Hillstone.com
Thai marinated beef filet with avocado, mango and herbs in Thai dressing. Paired with Newton Claret, Napa Valley There are so many flavors in this dish, we couldn’t pick just one grape… We picked 5! The Claret is a classic blend of Bordeaux varietals, each coming to light in its’ own right against this dish. The spice from the Thai influence brings the Cabernet Sauvignon to life, while the Syrah attacks the beef in the mouth, adding a layer of tobacco and fruit under the acid absorbing avocado and the sweet hints of mango. This pairing needs to be tasted to be truly enjoyed.
Block Island swordfish simply grilled over live hickory with herb butter sauce, accompanying Mer Soleil, Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands The fleshy swordfish, smoky grilled influence, and the purity of a wellmade butter sauce calls for this wine by name. The Mer Soleil adds a rich mouth-filling oakiness and fat butter component, the vanilla and allspice notes serve to amplify the aromatics of the dish, one bite here and your mind will be changed about everything you thought you knew.
Housemade cheesecake with roasted red kuri squash, cinnamon and nutmeg in a graham cracker crust alongside Taylor Fladgate, Fine Tawney Porto A slightly mellower port to accent the rich texture of the cheesecake, the spice of the cinnamon and nutmeg, and the chestnut-flavored kuri squashes add the traditional nuttiness in most ports. The weight of both wine and dessert seem to dance around each other in the mouth, the touch of heat from the port almost melting the lush cake, blending harmoniously.
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN
(901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
www.MemphisCorkIt.com
Theo’s Bistro
6696 Poplar Ave, Memphis, TN 38138 (901) 737-5664 www.theosmemphis.com
Fresh Catch: Red Snapper & Mirassou, Pinot Noir, California 2011 Roasted Red Snapper bathed in an herbed butter sauce with vine ripened tomatos and a medley of garden fresh vegetables paired with Mirassou Pinot Noir. The wines body is light enough, but in line with the moderate texture of the snapper. The sauce of tomato and herb adding acidity and aromas to the cherries and pomegranite found within the glass, and a soft finish that has a hint of sweetness but does not overpower the dish.
Capri Salad & Rodney Strong, Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2010 Flame grilled garlic marinated chicken with oregano, basil, kalamata olives, and toasted pine nuts tossed with a classic lemon & olive oil vinaigrette. Pair with Rodney Strong Chardonnay, a rich mouth filling delight of pineapple and lemon with specks of apple and the weight to enrich this salad.
Penne Almalfi & Mac’s Irish lemonade Sautéed shrimp tossed with fresh diced tomatoes, and herbs in a feathery light tomato sauce. Paired with Mac’s Irish Lemonade, a stout blend of Jameson Irish whisky, tangy sweet and sour, lemon lime soda and a hint of orange liqueur.
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Please Drink Responsibly. ©2012 HobNob Wine Company, Ltd.,Imported by Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits, White Plains, NY 10604
Jim’s Place -since 1921-
restaurant & bar
You bring your friends and cocktails we provide the paints and canvases! Leave with a masterpiece. Perfect for Team Building Parties, Date Night, Bridal Parties, Birthday Parties, or just a great Girls Night Out!
901.766.2030
Use code CORKIT at check out for 15% off
518 Perkins Extended - Memphis TN 38117
Paint. Drink. Have Fun.
www.jimsplacememphis.com
5040 Sanderlin Suite 111
management@jimsplacememphis.com
901.761.0012
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You can also find us on facebook- Jim’s Place Restaurant & Bar
What to bring for the holidays
By Chris Thorn
Champagne You cannot go wrong here; there is nothing quite as racy and perfect as tasting the freshness or yeast-laden depth in true blue champagne. Good Champagne can be had for under $50. It is the laser-like acidity you want to cut the richness of various sauces and soften up sugared vegetables. The bubbles work equally well against salted ham or the texture of a roasted turkey.
Still wines from Portugal Unfortified and offering a plethora of fruit and an ever approachable youth, still wines of Portugal haven’t quite had the market impact they should. There is an element of richness reminiscent of Beaujolais but with immense body, try this with game meats and spicy dressing.
Syrah Perhaps I am biased, but Syrah is ALWAYS in my bag of tricks, there are many a variations on fruit, spice and terroir. For Thanksgiving Dinner, the mouth filling layers and beauty of this varietal are unmatched from an across-the-board perspective. Value, quality, intrigue and purity are the best ways to describe the vast majority of offerings. This is a must if you have non-traditional dinners or are like me and go with a nice Chateaubriand.
Dessert With a vast array of sweet pickings around the holidays, I usually stray from one recommended wine selection, but sometimes there stands one from the crowd. When making dessert wine selections it is best to air of the side of sweetness to measure up to the pies, cakes, and Jell-O-like-gifts. Otherwise, something with a truly individual identity can soar, look for things that aren’t the typical grape varieties or are made in their own fashion. Again, engage the staff, they can help.
Pinot Grigio This northern Italian delight catches a bit of a bad rap due to systemic over production and mass marketing, but when you find a great example it sticks out. The light refreshingly crisp wine is perfect for a variety of holiday foodstuffs and with a name like “Pinot Grigio” most everyone in the family will at least try a sip.
Sparkling Rose Completely different than other sparklers or Champagne, the extra layer of fruit and bigger mouth presence puts these into a category of their own. Big money doesn’t need be spent on these either, generally in the $16-25 range you will find they even taste beautiful with grandma’s pumpkin pie.
Cru Beaujolais This is where it gets tricky; make sure you are looking at Cru wines, the guys in the liquor store can help. Beaujolais is generally affordable and can be served with a slight chill, softening the wine for even the most dedicated white drinker. The unique aromas of banana, heavy flowers and sweet cherries can be brand new to most; this is the wine to earn brownie points with.
MEMPHIS ROOTS “A bottle of wine begs to be shared; I have never met a miserly wine lover� -Clifton Fadiman, NY Times 8 Mar 1987 A journey through our local heroes of the vine, a chance to see the people who have made Memphis proud as Oenophiles, a hint of insight into the minds that mold the local wine scene and keep our glasses full.
MEMPHIS ROOTS
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Sommelier, n, french; Trained and knowledgable wine professional who specializes in all aspects of wine services as well as food and wine matching
Jay Turney Title: General Manager / Wine Guy Employer: Circa by John Bragg Years Employed: Two and half Years # of Bottles: 120 # of wines by the glass: 31 $ Range by the glass: $8 - $16 Corkage: $15 List Strength: European whites and reds are the strength, with California rounding out the balance.
Photo by Norm Gilbert
Favorite Pairings: Jean Baptiste Adam Pinot Gris from Alsace with all types of cheese and charcuterie. This wine covers all the bases from blue to triple crème. Also, Amarone and Ripasso from Veneto, Italy with Game Meats. Favorite wine: Chateau Haut Brion, PessacLeognan, Bordeaux & Grammercy Syrah from Washington State . You can’t have just one.
Worst pairing mistake: English Pudding with Emillio Lustau, East India Solera Sherry. The wine and the dessert tasted the same. I learned very quickly that contrasting wine with sweet desserts is a must. Passion: I have a deep passion for traditional food and wine pairings. Hugh Johnson defines many of these types of pairings in his wine books, such as dry and amontillado sherry with broth soups and mushrooms, also European white wines with cheese, a fine Merlot with Filet Mignon, Bordeaux with Lamb. The real old school wine pairings that stand the test of time. Best thing about wine: Wine never ceases to amaze me, whether it be with food or not. I like the way it challenges my palate with every sip, be it dry, fruity, earthy, young or old. Wine evolves in flavor and tactile nuances. Wine is liquid food in a glass. Best kept wine secret: Rhone varietals in Washington State.
Jeff Frisby Title: General Manager, server and ‘ Wine guy’
Favorite wine: Lachini Pinot Noir
Employer: Restaurant Iris
Passion: I am lucky to love my job! I and the entire front of the house staff are committed to making sure all of our guests feel special and welcome.
Years Employed: 4 ½ years # of Bottles: 123 # of wines by the glass: 43 $ Range: $27- $280
Photo by Ande Demetriou
Corkage: $17, we ask that the wine not be represented on our wine list List Strength: Well-crafted wines available at all price points Favorite Pairings: Cliff Creek cellars Marsanne/Roussane blend with our oysters ‘3 ways’
Fun Fact: Our front of the house has over 100 years combined experience in the restaurant business! Best thing about wine: Whether it’s a $10 bottle of Moscato, or a $100 bottle of Pinot Noir, there’s something for everyone! Best kept wine secret: Take a chance…. sometimes there is a hidden gem in that unknown $15 bottle!
W hat mak e s
Felicia Willett s o t o
s p e c i a l M e m p h i s ?
S h e c o nstant l y g i v e s an d
b a c k
i s
a l wa y s
a l wa y s a
p o s i t i v e f o r
l i ght
M e m p h i s
Ben Brock, Owner, Amerigo Restaurant
As a local beef supplier I am grateful for Felicia and her business because she appreciates local products and understands quality. On top of that, she advertisers our name on her menu and educates her customers about the food they eat at her restaurant. This benefits her restaurant, the customers that eat at Felicia Suzanne’s, her local suppliers, and also the growth of the slow food movement. Mike Rice, Claybrook Farms
Felicia ventured where few would setting up shop for an upscale restaurant in downtown Memphis when the area seemed to be just turning the corner. She proved to herself and all that downtown Memphis was a place to invest. And now, ten years later Felicia is not only one of city’s tops chefs, but her restaurant is always at the pinnacle of fine dining throughout the city. Felicia has encouraged greater collaboration amongst the incredible Memphis chef community; and when she is not cooking, she is often spotted dining at the establishments of her industry colleagues. Felicia is not only a talented chef, but she is a positive corporate citizen as well donating much of her time and skills to charities. Her fondness for the children at St Jude and Make-A-Wish foundations are truly inspiring to us. In all, she is our current First Lady of Fine Food. Josh Hammond, Buster’s Liquors & Wines
Felicia is such a special part of our community...from the support she gives to local farmers and businesses, to her constant support of some very worthy non profits, to the tastiness that comes out of her kitchen, I am proud to call her both a neighbor and a friend. Kelly English, Chef/Owner of Restaurant Iris
We like to call her our Big Sister. She takes care of everybody. People can come and give her obstacles and she blows right through them. She can overcome adversity. She helped up open Hog & Hominy more than she’ll ever know. Michael Ticer, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen/Hog and Hominy
She’s always there to listen and give advice. She’s been there for 10 years and she always helps the newer business owners. She’ll help out everybody. If you have questions about the industry she knows it; she’s been through it all. She knows what the city will and won’t respond to. Andrew Hudman, Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen/Hog and Hominy
Felicia brings GREAT to Memphis. She has passion for what she does and for Memphis. She is always looking out for the betterment of downtown/ Memphis and for the underdog. She supports local like no one else and is constantly helping to drive local farms and food. She constantly gives back and is always always a positive light for Memphis and I have yet to catch her without her wonderful smile. WE are all very lucky to be able to claim Felecia as one of our own. Ben Brock, Owner, Amerigo Restaurant
Since Felicia came to Memphis she has always been a culinary bright light of our community. I admire her creativity, talent & above all her maniacal support for our local producers. I am happy to call her a friend & beyond thrilled that she makes our city a more delicious place. Michael Hughes, Joe’s Wines & Liquors
Memphis is so fortunate to have Felicia - she is not only an amazing chef, but a dear friend. She gives so much back to the community, and always there to support other chefs when they call her to participate in events. She is warm, kind, generous, creative and fun!!! We love her! Colleen DePete, River Oaks
Felicia Willett has always been one of my favorite chefs to work with. Her restaurant’s food, service and ambiance speak for themselves, but Felicia is also one of the most generous individuals I have ever met. She is always willing to give her time and talent to the most deserving of causes. It has been a pleasure getting to know Felicia over the past few years. Memphis is fortunate to have such a wonderful chef and inspiration in its city. Thank you Felicia. Ryan Trimm, Executive Chef, Sweet Grass & Next Door
Well, If you’ve ever met Felicia then you would know that Felicia is a pretty fantastic person and the fact that she chose Memphis to live and to open her restaurant is very special. She definitely has done a lot for Memphis, not just by being here, but she has volunteered a lot of her time to many great local non-profit organizations. Rebecca Severs, Bari Restaurant
MEMPHIS ROOTS
An Afternoon with
Michael Barzizza Michael Barzizza was Tennessee’s first Cicerone and resident Memphis beer expert; He is our go-to guy for anything involving beer pairing and style.
Interviewed By Chris Thorn Photos by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
The word Cicerone (pronounced sis-uh-rohn) has been chosen to designate those with proven expertise in selecting, acquiring and serving today’s wide range of beers. The titles “Certified Cicerone®” and “Master Cicerone®” are protected certification trademarks. Only those who have passed the requisite test of knowledge and tasting skill can call themselves a Cicerone. (From the Cicerone Certification Organization)
What would you personally like to see more of? I would like to see more people stop at the beer section at their local grocery store and spend more time choosing a beer they haven’t tried before or I would like to see more nice restaurants including a sexy beer list next to their sexy wine list. I just want people to step out of their comfort zone when it comes to beer and experience all the joy and flavor that it has to offer.
What and when began your love affair with beer? I’ve been around good beer for a while. My father and cousin were the first people to distribute craft beer in this area. I remember my first real experience with beer was about 12 years ago with three beers; Newcastle, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale, and Chimay Premiere. It was my first education on the spectrum of flavors that beer offers. They were all so different and all offered so many flavors.
What are your favorite styles, your desert island beer? Why? I will always love American pale ales. They were the first beers that really got my attention with their outwardly noticeable hop kick and mild malty sweetness that comes in as a secondary flavor. They have character and flavor without being too heavy and finish clean. It is the style of beer that I usually look at the most and when I see a few beers available from a brewery that I am not familiar with, I usually choose their pale ale.
What was the appeal of the Cicerone certification program? There is a need for this kind of program. Years ago when the sommelier program was developed it filled a need for an expert guide through the world of wine. There is now a world of beer that is available to the public, it can be overwhelming. A certified cicerone is someone that can make that world a little easier to navigate for someone that is curious about beer. One of my favorite things to hear from someone is “I don’t like beer”; I hear a challenge in that because it’s not that someone doesn’t like beer, they just haven’t found the right one. What interesting opportunities, unique to beer, have come from your certifications? I love visiting breweries and talking to brewers. They are some of the most passionate people about what they do and some of the most ingenuitive people I have ever met. So that would fall into some of the most interesting opportunities I have had. The Great American Beer Festival in Denver was also amazing. It was too much to take in all in one day, but a great opportunity to try a lot of beers that are not widely available. Let’s talk beer trends, what is hot right now, and what scares you the most? IPAs are really popular. It really shows that people are looking for more flavor and complexity in their beers. Brewers seem to be responding by exploring the boundaries of hops by making white IPAs and black IPAs and Rye IPAs and any other variant of IPA or hopped up deliciousness that the imagination of the brewer can conjure. I can’t really think of any element of the beer world that scares me. People seem to love the broad variety, more and more people are trying different beers all the time, and I just hope people keep enjoying better beer.
What major factors influence style? Beer’s style and flavor are built by a few factors. It starts with the water; the water’s mineral content plays a big part of what kind of beer you end up with. It is why when breweries decide on a location to build they look at the water of that location. Memphis, for example, has some of the finest water in the country for brewing. The second stage is the malt. This is the barley that is germinated, dried, and roasted at different temperatures and times to create the desired result. Malt is the base of the beer and provides for the sweet element that you can taste in beer. Other grains like wheat, oat, rye, or corn can also be used in the mix to adjust the flavor. After the water and malts you have the hops. Hops have a natural bitterness to them that can come through as citrus, pine, grassy, or earthy flavors, just to name a few. They provide balance to the malt sweetness and offer a little more complexity. Finally you have
MEMPHIS ROOTS the yeast. Yeast makes the magic happen by creating the alcohol through the miracle of fermentation. Yeast can also impart some fruity, spicy, or pleasantly sour flavors in beer. All of these elements in their various portions and balances create the style and flavor profile. How is tasting beer for flavor different than say wine? There really is very little difference. There is usually less spitting in the process of tasting beer, but you still enjoy the bouquet of aromas first, this primes your palate for the flavors that they are about to get hit with. Next take a sip and let the beer rest for a short moment to really get the full spectrum of flavors as it passes across your palate. Think about other things you have tasted in the past that the flavors you are processing with the beer might remind you of. Swallow and repeat. Also, enjoy the color of the beer, but don’t let the color of the beer give you any preconceived notions about what the beer is going to taste like, they can often surprise you.
Beer Tasting notes
Do you view beer as a better accompaniment to food, and why? I assume that you mean a better accompaniment than wine. I think that both are fine beverages to enhance a meal. For years wine has claimed dominance in the food pairing field and I think that it is a mistake to automatically assume that wine is a natural pairing for a particular course. Over the years we have done many beer dinners to show people the potential that beer has to enhance a meal. The Beer vs. Wine dinner series that we did suggested that beer has the potential to pair better than wine in some cases. I personally would choose a beer with my meal over a wine, given a good selection, because of the vast array of flavors that are offered in beer. In complementing flavors in a meal it is possible to find joy in either of these beverage categories and in many styles, but from my experience beer just offers more possibilities.
Does temperature and glassware have a great impact on flavor? I usually stick to about a 40-55F, depending on the style, but this is also kind of an individual preference, I know some people that like their beer closer to room temperature. It just depends on how you like it. One major truth is that you don’t want your beer to be ice cold because then you will not be able to taste it and what’s the point of beer if you can’t taste it? Glassware is also a kind of unique science in the beer culture. As for glasses, they have been designed over the centuries to serve a few
roles. Some are designed to accommodate individual styles, promote head retention, and capture aromatics. Thick walled mugs where designed to make them more sturdy and hold temperature better, some of the Belgian goblets and chalices have been designed to not only aid in head retention but also will often give measurement marks or fill lines to indicate where the glass should be filled to. They all serve a purpose. Where do you see Memphis in 5 years as it relates to beer? Memphis is a city that is primed and thirsty for great beer. We have a universe of beer
available to us here. It might not be as widely distributed, but with all of the people that I talk to there is a demand and a curiosity for it. I see the beer culture of Memphis growing greatly in the next five years. All people have to do is embrace better beer and enjoy the ride. Where do you see yourself going with this in the future? I see myself continuing to work to help build the beer culture and introduce more people to the wide world of beer. Craft beer is still a relatively new segment in the beverage industry. I am here to help it grow. Where will it take me? I’m not really sure, maybe some new breweries, good restaurants, or to the bar for another beer. Give the readers a quick education, explain India Pale Ales to them… India Pale Ales (IPAs) are some of the greatest examples of historic beers with great complexity. It all started when the British troops were working in India. Back then beer was a staple of every day diet, as it should be. Well, the soldiers had a problem getting good beer down in India. The climate was not conducive to brewing, it was too hot and there was no refrigeration, and the efforts to import the regular beer failed because the beer could not make the long sea voyage from Europe, around Africa, and over to India without spoiling. The brewers realized that hops had natural preservative qualities that could extend the life of beer. So they used this quality to their advantage. They just increased the hop content of the English pale ales that they where shipping. With the hops preserving the pale ales that they where shipping, they made the trip! Then the India pale ale was born! Now the style has become one of the most popular styles around. English IPAs are a little different than the big hop bombs that we make here in the states, but they are generally the same principle, very hopped up beers with a lot of complexity and big hop flavor. Great beers all round, be them from the UK or USA.
Stone Pale Ale Old fashion caramel, bright citrus, and wheatgrass; followed by brown sugar apples and Beachwood. The finish has a truly toasted grain and the hops are rounded but very apparent at the end. Stone Sublimely Self Righteous Fresh hop, grapefruit oil and a little touch of bittersweet chocolate jump out of the glass, in the mouth the chocolate gets a touch darker, there is a subtle sweetness and the finish has a French roast espresso and some serious hang time. Monks Café Belgium Sour Ale Wild raspberry and soft milk chocolate along with a background hint of cherry, it moves to a heavily carbonated cherry and apple with a drop of lemon oil.
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Q&A Black Cellar
Photos by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
“In the beginning”
Tim Black recently finished a renovation that would offer him space to store his collectables, though not full at the moment, the uniqueness of his cellars location and his affinity for Tequila have earned him a spot here.
How many bottles do you currently have? Close to 100 even though my cellar can hold up to 500 bottles.
Do you plan to grow your collection? Only slightly since I tend to enjoy Pinot Noir and the “cellar life” is generally shorter, approximately 8 to 12 years.
What first attracted you to wine? Other than the obvious enjoyment of sharing a glass of wine with my wife and our friends, I really appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into wine making and that this art has been occurring for centuries.
To collecting? This craftsmanship and unique skill that is required to make excellent wine as well other spirits such as Tequila is the main reason I began to collect both.
What attracted you to Tequila? I was fortunate enough to attend a tasting and get introduced to one of the first Tequila sommeliers over 20 years ago and have been collecting ever since.
Anejo or Repesodo? I enjoy the aged Anejo and compare many of them to wellaged bourbon.
How do you select the wines you collect? Since we lean toward Pinot Noir’s, we generally look for something from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County, CA.
Describe your storage conditions? My cellar is underground in a 105 year old building that has been converted into condos, the walls are about 2’ thick concrete and so the temperature is generally constant.
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What/Where was the best wine focused meal you have ever had?
I have had many great wine focused dinners while traveling, however one recent and local one stand out. My wife recently surprised me with a “Dinning Event” at Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant. We had a table set up in the kitchen right in the middle of the action! Felicia coordinated our fabulous and unscripted meal selections with several wine pairings for an evening to remember. We have just moved downtown full time and really enjoy meeting the local chefs at the unique and expanding restaurants and pubs.
Who is your favorite producer? Herradura Seleccion Suprema is definitely my favorite bottle and is hard to find. Also one of my favorite bottles would be Cazzadores Anejo which is excellent, affordable, and easy to find. Many of the “Brand” names also make good Tequila but generally they are limited to the Family Reserve bottles.
Tequila is such a misunderstood spirit, what would you tell the nay-sayers? Make sure that you only drink Tequila that is made from 100% Agave, otherwise it is “cut” with sugared alcohol which causes the headaches, not to mentioned the bad taste.
If you had to pick just one dessert wine, what would it be? My favorite after dinner wine is a dessert Syrah by Souveraine
What is your best purchase? Almost any Pinot Noir from Chasseur, Bill Hunter has been making small lots of excellent wine for many years and focusing on Pinot Noir’s from the Russian River Valley. Many of the bottles in my collection came from lots of 10 barrels or less.
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Getting to know
Claybrook Farms Mike Rice Interviewed by Allison Jacob Photos by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Pictured above Dave Turner & Mike Rice
Tell me about Claybrook Farms and the Turner family. Is farming a longstanding tradition in your family? Our history with farming dates back to my Great, Great Grandfather, William Sanford, who bought what is now the largest part of the row crop land at Claybrook Farms for its timber in the early 1900’s. Today, this land remains in the family and is accompanied by the cattle land bought by my cousin, Carl Turner, in 1975. Before Carl, his father, Roy Turner, took over a nearby family farm in the early 30’s when his parents passed away. A cousin of my Grandfather started Turner Dairy, as well. Today, at Claybrook Farms, we farm about 2,600 acres of land (that we either own or lease) and raise the cattle on about 800 acres. Carl’s knowledge of farming was handed down to him by his father and through his education at the University of Tennessee and experience working with Al Gore (Senior) on his cattle operation in East Tennessee. For years and still today, our main business has been Black Angus breeding where great care is placed on the genetics of our herd and the quality of our cattle. Since 1976, we have sold over 1,400 bulls and 1,800 females throughout the country. Today, Carl’s son, Dave Turner, manages all the cattle operation and his brother, Chris Turner, manages the crops. Pictured above Carl Turner & Betty Bennett
Will you ever venture to include other animals, or always stay beef? A year ago when we formed the meat company, we had thoughts of one day incorporating other meat products but over the next several years our main focus will be understanding all our options as it pertains to beef. For example, artisan cuts like the Teras Major, all-beef hotdogs, bratwurst, and even jerky. We have much to learn before venturing too far from our roots.
Did you grow up on the farm? I did not grow up on the farm but as a child I always enjoyed the frequent visits with my grandparents John “Pop” and Marianne Turner in Covington and my visits to the farm with my grandfather. I feel fortunate to now be able to work full time with the farm and family. My mom is from Covington and my dad is from Florence, Alabama. I grew up in Memphis and graduated from Ridgeway High School.
What makes Claybrook Farms unique and the beef you provide so good? The first differentiator is the genetics that we have carefully bred into these animals for five decades. We use technology such as ultra-sounding to understand which bulls should be bred with which females which will, in turn, yield the very best beef possible. Other factors include our cattle’s free roaming existence and life without confinement, hormones, or antibiotics. The “happy cow” concern sounds cliché but it not only affects the quality of life for the cattle but also the resulting beef we eat. We strive to consider all factors that affect the beef that the end user puts on his or her plate. How many people work on the farm? Is it all family? It is mainly family. My cousin Dave, manages the cattle. Dave’s brother, Chris manages the crop operation. Elliot Baskin and David Johnson
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also manage the cattle fulltime, and I manage the meat company. My cousin Ashlea Baskin, our friend Randy Locke, and my parents Steve Rice and Molly Turner help support the operation. When I first started to truly understand what it takes to run Claybrook Farms, I was amazed that so many cows and so many acres of crops can be handled by only a handful of people. We all work very hard!! What’s the best thing about working for your family? The hardest? The best thing is knowing that you are working for each other and towards the same goal. It is very satisfying to be adding a page of the book to such a long history. We respect each other and we all love the farm life.
What do you want people to know about Claybrook Farms? We want our customers to know that we are humbled by their business and the interest they show our farm and family. We understand that no one HAS to buy beef from Claybrook Farms and we never take that for granted. We do everything we can to provide a premium Claybrook product each day to our customers and strive daily to improve. We cannot say thank you enough! What are your goals for the future? Our main goal is to increase the amount of beef we process and sell in and around Memphis. We plan to do this without compromising quality or any of our methodologies.
What is your background? What is your role with the farm? I grew up in Memphis and went to Ridgeway High School where most of my extracurricular time was spent in athletics, primarily basketball. After deciding not to pursue athletic scholarship offers, I moved to Florida to attend the University of South Florida where I received a bachelor’s degree in business management. I worked for Enterprise Rent-A-Car during and after college before moving back to Memphis and working with the farm and family. I also spent a short time as a reservist in the Marine Corps. My role on the farm is managing all beef sales from slaughter to sale. That includes marketing, pricing, delivery, and customer service. Many people see me around Memphis in our big delivery truck. Some call it the cow truck and refer to me as the “beef man.” I heard you all were somehow connected with Neola Farms at some point. Is this true? How so? Yes, we were Neola Farms primary cattle and feed source. They purchased Claybrook slaughter-ready steers and feeder calves from our farm on a weekly or monthly basis. Charline and Mike Lenegar did an incredible job marketing Neola beef and still have many friends in and around Memphis. We were very happy to have an outlet for our cattle while they were in business and appreciate them greatly. Do you think it’s important for people to buy local if possible? The need for local sourcing is not only for health reasons and quality concerns but also for customer feedback. A typical grocery butcher cannot receive feedback from a consumer on product sold and relay that information to the producer. That line of communication is lost when local sourcing is unavailable. Customer satisfaction and product improvement depends on the communication between the producer and the end user. If this line is cut, customer satisfaction and any quality improvements remain stagnant.
Pictured above Dr Tom Shields and herdsman David Johnson
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Q&A Steinberg Cellar “Quality over Quantity” Ken Steinberg, local mover and shaker, took some time to sit down with us and give some insight into his collection, and what wine means to him. Ken also has partial ownership in the winery Cornerstone, so he may be biased!
What first attracted you to wine? To collecting? Our interest and love for wine was an evolution. Years ago, Friday happy hour with friends started out with us trying to find new and interesting beers. That eventually evolved into trying the many different wines available from around the world. Wine is much more fun and interesting. The collecting part was expanded dramatically when we bought our new home 2 years ago and designed the cellar.
How do you select the wines you collect? There is so much information available on websites, blogs, way too many different email offers and magazines….I try to select wines that I see great reviews on, but appear to be underrated in Wine Spectator or similar magazines.
Who is your favorite producer? Cornerstone!
How many bottles do you currently have? 600+
Do you plan to grow your collection? We are at max capacity. We entertain often simply to make more room for new wine purchases.
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If you had to pick just one desert island wine, what would it be? I have a loaded answer. Cornerstone Howell Mountain Cabernet would be the wine I would not want to be without, but since I would be on a desert island, the climate would require something a little lighter. Cornerstone Corallina Syrah Rose would be the best for a desert island. We drank this all summer and it’s delightful.
What is your best purchase? Your worst? My best purchase will be my next purchase! My worst is probably belonging to too many mail-order wine clubs. Belonging to clubs where you are shipped wine selections monthly or quarterly can be exciting at first as you are getting new wines you may have never heard of before, but I have come to enjoy doing my own homework on wine and seeking out where to get some hard to find bottles.
Describe your storage conditions? When we moved into our new house we found the perfect location in our living room to build a cellar to make it a centerpiece of the room. We had to tear down walls in order to insulate properly. I have a Whisper Kool 3000 that keeps the temperature at 56 degrees. I only keep red wine in the big cellar and whites in a 50 bottle cooler in the kitchen.
What is the best thing about having a wine collection? Entertaining; having friends over and getting adventurous with what we are drinking. You try to stay reasonable for the first bottle or two and then it’s just bringing out the best we have. The only way to make room for new wine is to drink what you have.
What are you drinking currently? Kosta Brown Pinot Noir. I am still trying to make it on their list. Even though we had dinner with Dan Kosta a few months ago at a Brooks Museum wine event, we are still not on the list!
Angelo Lucchesi
The Man that Moved Jack Daniels Interview by Allison Jacob, Aug 21, 2012 Lynchburg Legends Bar and Grill in the Double Tree Hotel
A: Let’s start at the beginning, when did you first taste Jack Daniels? I tasted Jack Daniels when I was 24 years old. That is how I met Mr. Motlow. I was selling a liqueur called Southern Host. I met him here in Memphis but it didn’t mean anything because Jack Daniels didn’t mean anything. Two weeks later I had to make my first trip to Nashville and they didn’t have a room for me, even though I had a confirmation. I was sitting on the couch in the lobby really disgusted and about 11:30pm a man walked through and waved at me so I waved at him. I didn’t know who he was and then he asked the desk clerk what I was doing over there and the clerk answered “we have no room for him, Mr. Motlow.” He asked if I had one arm, and the clerk said “yes.” Mr. Motlow said “Send a cot up to my room and tell the kid to come up.” That is how we got to meet each other and he never got rid of me.
A: And thus the relationship started. When you asked for the job, as the first salesperson for Jack Daniels, how did that work? Well, I called him [Motlow] for some football tickets to the Alabama / Vanderbilt game; He said yes, are you going to bring Cecilia, which was my wife, I said yes. He asked if I could help entertain his guests. I said fine. Then I said, “Wait a minute, how about a job?” I didn’t hear anything; I said “Are you still there?” He said “aren’t you still working?” I said “yea, I’m working but they’re going to merge and I didn’t hear my name in the merger.” He said they were not hiring anybody yet. I told him to hire me and make me the first. He said “I’ll see you when you come up”. So as we were leaving Sunday [after the game], he said, “You can either stay here now or come back Tuesday. I’m going to put you on as the first salesman.”
A: Do you remember the exact date? It was October 3, 1953
A: So you started out entertaining guests, and you left with a job. People thought I was working for JD way before that because I used to go everywhere with him back then. We went to buy apples to make apple brandy; he took me to Chicago to meet a distributor. And then he took me to San Francisco. So I went to work for him, the following month was November. He said, “Ang, I want you to go with me to Chicago to call on them I-talians” (emphasis on the I) I didn’t know anybody, but he thought because I was of Italian origin that I knew everybody. I had $400 and that was a lot in 1953. We got in a taxi cab and at the first stop he said, “Now Angelo, don’t be nervous, this is mafia.” I said, “Do we have to stop there?” He told me not worry about it. We knocked on the door, went in, and the guy started raising all kind of sin.
I said “Wait a minute, I’m here to rectify the problem” but I didn’t know what the problem was…So I asked what the problem was? He said “We haven’t seen a salesman in 2 years.” What happened was our distributor didn’t have but three people calling on 6,000 accounts. All they took care of in Chicago was the big hotels, big restaurants. They didn’t call on the Polish accounts, the Irish or the Italians. So we sit down at 6:30 in the morning and he pulls out a bottle of Grand Dad 100 proof and says “let’s take a drink to seal our friendship.” I saw He had a gun hidden though I wasn’t worried about being shot. I took a drink and I thought ‘here I go again.’ We looked at each other after a few minutes, and he said “I like you.” And I said “I like you.” And he asks if I am going to help him? I didn’t know how many cases they [local distributor] had on the floor. I just asked what could I do for him? He said “I need 100 cases of quarts, and 50 cases of pints.” We just wrote it up like it was nothing, I didn’t know if they [Local distributor] had that much on the floor. But I didn’t tell him that. He said, “Wait a minute, we have to take another drink so I know we have a lasting friendship.” So I took another drink with him, that day we visited 11 accounts, 8 were mafia and 3 were legit, and sold 633 cases. Not that I was a great salesman, they just hadn’t seen anybody in those years. But after that, our company told the distributor to either put on more salesmen or we were going to take the line away from them. I drank at every spot and got back to the hotel half crocked! Then I went back again with the new salesmen that needed to be broken in.
A: So you have to level with them? I can pretty much tell what the problem is when I talk to them and I try to, but I can’t solve all problems, but the ones I can I solve right there when it pertains to Jack Daniels. I used to be able to solve all the problems. They would be mad at the distributor, but I told them they can’t be mad at me because this is the first time I was coming in. I’d say,” how about a coke?” And they would say “Ok, but you’re paying for it.” I said, “Well its ok with me.” and when I left, we were in good shape. They would even ask me to come back.
A: When did you know you would be successful selling JD, was it that day? No, it took about 3 years before we sold a lot of Jack Daniels. And the 3rd year we sold about 255,000 cases. Mr. Motlow thought Mr. Jack was turning over in his grave because he thought we would never sell that much.
A: While you were selling Jack Daniels, that you can share, what was the most outrageous thing that happened to you with sales? I think the Chicago trip, that first time; because I was kind of nervous about going in there and yet they treated me just like I was part of the family. Maybe because of my Italian origin, I don’t know.
A: What do you think the secret to your success is? Well, I think the way the Motlow family handled their brand. There used to be other distillers in Tennessee, but a lot of them went out of business. There was a brand named Cascade, owned by the Dickel family. Beautiful bottle and good whiskey, but they lowered their price and Mr. Motlow raised his price. People would ask why do that? Mr. Motlow said “good price, worth the charge”; meaning it’s worth the price. And he stuck to that, he stuck to the quality of
MEMPHIS ROOTS his whiskey and nobody could change it. Then his sons took over and did the same thing. That’s when I got involved with Hap Motlow (One of the sons).
A: What is your sales pitch? Well, today, it’s different today. I’m mostly in public relations. Your sales pitch in those days was tougher; you had to sell it bottle by bottle, two bottles at a time, three bottles at a time. There weren’t any cases back then. When I went to Kentucky, it was new ground for us. Nobody wanted Jack Daniels in Kentucky because they had so many Kentucky liquors. I would leave with a salesman by the name of Gus Cochran in the morning, at 6 o’clock in the morning, and before we got half way there he would open a half pint of whiskey, he would take a drink, and I would take a drink. I asked myself, “How long is this going to last?” Back then we had a case of half pints in the trunk marked with indelible ink, so not for sale. After breakfast we would make the first account, go in and bring a half pint in with us. They would ask us who we were, and we told them “we’re with Jack Daniels distillery and we’d like to try to get you to put Jack Daniels in here.” They would tell us “We don’t sell Tennessee whiskey in Kentucky.” I said “we sell a lot of Kentucky whiskey in Tennessee.” They would say, “Well, how does it taste?” You open a bottle, and taste it with them. Give them one fifth, 2 pints, and 3 halves. At least that’s what the first order gave me. That’s the way it was until 8 o’clock that night going back home, we drank about 14 half pints. But we sold 8 cases, and we didn’t sell that much in the months before.
appointments. I go down to the warehouse and see what’s happening; I go to a few stores. I want to know what’s happening; I don’t want to be asked something that I can’t answer. So I get around and get as much information as I can.
A: What is the most memorable thing about Memphis, for you? What makes you proud to be from Memphis?
A: Will you ever retire?
I just like everything about Memphis; the zoo, we have a great zoo. Growing up with all my brothers and sisters, not one of us ever got into any trouble. My mother and my father, (you had to meet them). They never turned anybody down for food; they came over from Italy and that’s the way it was. It’s too hard to say just one thing. I lost my arm before I was 5 years old. People always want to know if I was left handed or right handed before, hell I don’t know. It doesn’t make any difference now. My father knew a lot of people, a lot of people used to come over to the house. The mayors used to come over, some of the city commissioners
A: Where did the Motlow family live, through the generations? They lived in Lynchburg.
A: How many of the Motlow’s are still living? None, except the grandchildren. We have one Motlow grandchild working for us named Jennifer, her grandfather was one of the owners of Jack Daniels. They are a very close knit family; I still keep in touch with them.
A: How did you drink Jack Daniels? I used to drink it straight with water on the side.
A: Do you like how your 90th Birthday commemorative bottle tastes? Of course, it sold out, 6000 cases.
A: What are your earliest memories of Memphis, growing up here? Being one of 13 children, I remember living on Florida Street. Back then you had a lot of families, like Armenian families, Irish families; Jewish families like the Lansky’s, that furnished all the clothes for Elvis. They used to be my
When God takes me away from this world. I will know when it’s time to quite. When I know I can’t be productive or create some kind of excitement with this company or for Jack Daniels itself, then I will quit. Working for this company is like adrenaline. I know when I get up I can forget about my dialysis, after that I know where I’m going, down to the warehouse. I might jump in a car and ride with a salesman. I take people out to dinner at night. I might work the casinos with another salesman, I don’t go by myself. I might go to Biloxi and make a talk down there. When someone buys a barrel we have a promotion and I go.
A: My dad and I often ask each other - If you were to be taken today, would you have done everything you could have possibly done at this point in your life? Have you lived each day to the fullest? We have never done everything completely, there is always something that you leave out, not that you want to leave it out; there is so much to embrace in this country.
A: As far as your life, what are you most proud of? When can you say, I did that really well?
A: Has anyone ever tried to hire you away from JD? One company,*omitted*, a long time ago. They offered me more money and my wife said forget it. You’re not going anywhere. She said you’re going to stay with JD, I said I know that. They were like a family for me.
neighbor and we grew up together. The deputy sheriff lived there. And my father had a grocery store on the corner of Lucca and Florida Street named Tony’s. They let my father name the street and that’s where he was from, Lucca. And we grew up there.
were real friends and were close to my father and mother. There really is a lot to be proud of.
A: Sounds like you were proud of the traditions.
What I did at the beginning, selling Jack Daniels bottle by bottle. Wondering if it was ever going to be a success, the whiskey, not me but the whiskey. If the whiskey is a success then I’m a success. Then they started hiring people so I zoomed in on 2 territories, Tennessee and Kentucky. Everybody else had the same kinds of problems I did, except I was there first.
Yes, and I like Italian traditions. Like eating together, my mother said this is what time we eat and we had a table big enough for 16 people. You never asked momma what was for dinner and you ate what was fixed. But it was always good so it didn’t make any difference.
A: Anything else you would like to share?
A: You have traveled all over the world for Jack Daniels, spending 6 years in Europe, why do you still live in Memphis when you could live anywhere?
A: Were you accepting of the honey when it came out?
My grandchildren are here, my greatgrandchildren. I have too many friends here. And I love Memphis, I love it.
A: You mentioned that your role now with JD is Public Relations and Marketing. Currently how often are you doing PR events and Marketing events? Well, I do something every day. It may not be a lot but it’s something every day. I’m not going to sit at home in bed. Now Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays I’m at my dialysis at 5 o’clock. I stay 4 hours, then by 9:30 or quarter to 10 I’m out of there and I can make
Just that the company itself has a lot of compassion and understanding. I’ve seen a lot of changes, not only with Jack Daniels but in the liquor industry. This thing with honey, we weren’t the first but now we sell more than all of them.
Yes, I’m accepting of change. You may not like what happens sometimes but you have to go with it. Otherwise they don’t need you. You don’t have to agree with everything they say, you can make your remarks. Like when they came out with 80 proof, I had a meeting with them, when they got through with me I said I was with them 110 percent! That’s the way management wants it. And that’s the way I feel about it. If that’s the way it’s going to be then you have to go with it. Embrace it.
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Q&A Candebat Cellar Photos by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
“l’more de Vino”
Local Insurance agent and CEO of Le Vignoble fine wine importers, Mike Candebat is the go to guy for an Italian based wine cellar. We were able to chat and sip some tasty stuff in his neat “outhouse”
How many bottles do you currently have? It fluctuates between 2,100 and 2,200 bottles.
Do you plan to grow your collection? How so? Yes, with red wines from Spain, Portugal, Rhone, Baja Mexico and Pinot’s from Sonoma/Oregon/Italy.
Where was the best wine focused meal you have ever had? At Trattoria Marsupino located in the town of Briaglia just outside of Mondovi, in the Piemonti. A winemaker wanted to challenge me on wine knowledge so she had a wine decanted to hide the label. The trick was to taste it blind from start to finish and then be able to select the correct grape variety, appellation, vintage, exposure, vineyard cru and producer. Tasting blind forces you to intensely focus on what you are drinking and at the conclusion of our three hour meal, I was so humiliated!
What first attracted you to wine? Being able to taste a site specific piece of the world that an individual vineyard offers, in the form of wine, was my first attraction. I really do not consider myself a collector because we regularly drink the wines from our cellar every day.
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How do you select the wines you collect? Lately, I select strictly by grape variety as opposed to vintage or winery.
Who is your favorite producer? I’ll probably be accused of being bias if I select one of the producers I import, but it is a dead even tie between the Lequio family of the winery Prinsi, in Barbaresco and the Cassini family of Bindi Sergardi, in Chianti. Both are small, limited production wineries that have extremely high standards of production typically exceeding the DOCG requirements not to mention that their hospitality and times we shared meals were incredible!
Describe your storage conditions? An insulated, solid brick block, detached structure above ground (resembles a castle in Tuscany) with a combo of racking systems from cedar, chrome and steel.
Cooling set at 58 degrees and humidity 55
percent.
What is the best thing about having a wine collection? Besides being able to offer guests older wines that normally are no longer available, I love experiencing how Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo changes over time with all their subtle nuances and complexities that emerge as they age.
If you had to pick just one desert island wine, what would it be? A really tough question but between the Burlotto Barolo Monvigliaro and the Borgogno Barolo Liste …. I’d probably select the Monvigliaro.
What is your best purchase? Your worst? My best purchase was the 1989 Masseto; I told the store clerk that there was an error with the price but he insisted it was correct and after two more attempts of disclosure, I gave up. Worst purchase was the 1991 Opus … it was corked!
Felicia Willet First Lady of Memphis
Allison Jacob sat down with Felicia Suzanne Willett downtown at her restaurant. It was a beautiful fall afternoon towards the end of September and the weather was perfect for an early dinner outside on the patio with the trollies rolling down Main Street. Where did you grow up? Are you part of a big family? I grew up in Jonesboro Arkansas. My family is blended; one person refers to it as a bunch of coat hangers. My parents were divorced when I was young; both remarried great people that had children. On my mom’s side, there were 4 of us. On my dad’s side, my step-mother had 3 kids, my dad had my brother and myself, and they had a child together. So there’s six on that side. And I’m the oldest on that side. So big, big holidays. Yes, big holidays and big birthdays. There were 2 birthdays. And then it sorta goes from that to my dad’s mom and dad divorced when I was young. And my grandfather remarried, so I had 2 grandmothers on my dad’s side and one grandmother on my mom’s side. My step-mom had 2 sets of siblings, so when you say blended, we were multi-blended. My dad was married four times, so after he and my step-mother divorced, he married someone else that had children. I don’t really keep in touch with them, but my stepmother remarried Sam. And Sam has two children; on my step-mom’s side there are 8 of us. And then for my mom – it’s just my mom and me. My mom was divorced from my step-dad, and I still see his two children. So that’s what we mean by coat hangers. AND my mom and step-mom are best friends. They travel together with their husbands. The holidays are together. My little brother, the youngest, Ross, he’s in Los Angeles, he is an actor. He is the glue that keeps us all together. What is your first memory of being in a kitchen, of wanting to cook? My grandmother Lovis. The first real thing I can remember of her letting us help, besides mixing cookies, were biscuits…. The patting and the kneading of the biscuits…. Mixing everything together, turning it out on the floured surface, patting them down, cutting the biscuits….
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What did she use to cut the biscuits? Back then there were no biscuit cutters, she used a jar, or a knife and cut them into square biscuits. Then the next thing was fried chicken. I can remember my mom was out with my first step-dad and I had conned the babysitter into believing that I needed to make fried chicken for them to have when they got back. I got in the cabinet, I got the flour, I seasoned the chicken, I’m not even sure it was done…. How old were you? Probably eight or nine. She came home, I had fallen asleep on the couch waiting for them to come home to have fried chicken. But, they came home and ate it. Was it at that point that you thought culinary was the way to go? Always. I never thought I would do anything else. My family is highly educated. One side has lots of attorneys. My mom had 2 PHD’s, one in Higher Education and the other in Psychology with her Master’s in English. Her sister has a similar degree. Or, on my dad’s side, we had a children’s shoe business, Willett Shoes in Jonesboro. My dad grew up in the shoe business; he expanded it to include clothing stores. So retail, attorneys, teachers, and all I ever wanted to do was cook. When I was in high school all the kids would run and get the teen magazines and I was going to get Bon Appetit. I thought I was going to have to go to Law School or I was going to be selling shoes. But my mom and step-dad were really big foodies. They traveled to New Orleans, New York and Chicago a lot. When they got married, they gave each other his and her matching gas stoves for wedding gifts. So they were really intense in cooking and entertaining. After they got married, they bought a home together and made their ideal kitchen. It was a very open floor plan and the kitchen was very commercial. And this was in the ‘70’s. My mom entertained all the time. She had a recipe card with every dinner party written down as to exactly where she went, what was served. She had tons of china, linens and serving pieces. Our pantry on the front had food, but on the back it had bound books of Bon Appetit for the whole year. Some of my fondest memories of my step-dad and me were on Saturday mornings when we would get up and go to the grocery store and plan our meals for the weekend. During the week I would help cook and if I needed something he would swing by the grocery store and pick it up on his way home. And for my mom’s friends, I would make cheesecakes. I was selling cheesecakes at 16 years old. There was a Bon Appetit article all about cheesecakes and I just started making them.
Baking is such a different art than cooking – how long did it take to make the cheesecake? They bake for 2 hours, after the prep of making them. And yes, for baking you have to follow the recipe. I actually went to Culinary School to be a pastry chef. I enrolled in the Pastry Program. They would not let me take meat cutting or stocks and sauces. You either enrolled in Pastries or Savories and they didn’t mix them. In some of the cooking classes you had pastry. I wanted to sign up for Pastries and be a Pastry Chef and minor in cooking. And they said I had to pick one or the other, so I picked cooking because there were some pastry classes. So as a young kid I baked cheesecakes. When I was 17, as a senior in high school, I got a gig to make 36 cheesecakes for an orthodontist to take to all of his dentists that referred him. I was young enough that I couldn’t drive, so my step-dad had to go with me to deliver all the cheesecakes. And back to my dad and my step-mom’s side, there were so many kids. My step-mom didn’t work outside of the house, but she would help my dad in the store, and she cooked dinner every night. So I was immersed in cooking. We had fish fry’s. My step-mom had a Jewish background also, so my step-grandfather was Jewish, my Pe Pa. Kugel to us was noodle pudding, but later I learned it’s actually a Jewish dish. We always had Noodle Pudding at fish fry’s, but it was really Kugel. There was a wide, diverse background for me: Catholic, Methodist, Jewish, Baptist – it was a huge mix. And growing up was cool; it was fun. Whether it was the very gourmet meals that my mom and step-dad would do; or simpler meals that my dad and step-mom did, or burgers or fish fry’s or fried chicken at my grandmother’s, it was all very diverse. I wanted to go to Culinary School. My mom said absolutely not. She thought it was a phase that I would grow out of. She said if I wanted to go to Culinary School, then I would have to pay for it at 18. And it wasn’t one person (mom) that said that, they all said that. So if I thought I could have gone to Culinary School at 18, I would have, but they said go and get your college degree and then go to Culinary School. So I enrolled at Arkansas State, went there for a year and a half, and then transferred to University of Memphis because they had a Restaurant Program. After I graduated, I went to Johnson and Wales in Charleston, South Carolina. My step-mom wrote me a letter. She still apologizes to this day for saying “please don’t go to be a cook, your smarter than that.” So I always tease her. I was only at Johnson and Wales for a year, because I already had a Bachelor in Business. I only had to take the culinary core classes, not the basic classes. So to finish, to graduate, I had to complete a 3 month internship. There was an event held at the Charleston Hotel called Salute to Southern Chefs, and a Chef from every Southern State was there. The school sent students to help so I had a chance to meet Chefs. I was an older student; I was 23 when I started culinary school, versus 18. And I was paying for school myself, so I was very eager and assertive in getting where I was going to do my internship. Most internships were at the big hotels (so you would be making Hollandaise Sauce for 500 people for Sunday brunch) and that wasn’t my thing. I met Emeril Lagasse at the event and I just followed up with him; I called
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him every day for a month until he called me back. He hired me over the phone and he only did year long internships. I just needed 3 months. So I moved to New Orleans and stayed 8 years. I worked my way through the kitchen and the last 5 years I was doing the TV shows and the cookbooks. I really enjoyed it, the writing part of it, the testing and the research. We traveled a lot; we traveled all over the country seeing different cuisines, cultures and people. And we ate everything. Then the company was changing, Martha Stewart was buying his rights and I wanted to go back to my roots and my dream. My dream was always to have a restaurant. After I graduated from Culinary School, I wanted to do my 3 month internship and move back to Jonesboro and open my own restaurant. My dream was to be married, have 5 kids, and run a restaurant. The reality was Jonesboro is a dry county and a small town in rural Arkansas. So I left New Orleans and planned to take a year off. I traveled some, went to New York and Vegas for a time. Then decided I wanted to get back in the kitchen. So that was when you considered Memphis as your next opportunity? Yes. Why downtown for your restaurant? Everybody said to look out east. I said I had to be downtown so my people could get here from Jonesboro in an hour. And I loved what was going on downtown. The city was putting in so much to revitalize downtown. In May of 2001 there were three articles in The Commercial Appeal (three Sundays back to back) with articles in the business section where they highlight someone in Memphis. The first article was about Gary Garland, then Thomas Boggs, then the Vergos family. So it was the three iconic places in Memphis and they were all putting a lot of money downtown. And it was desolate down here, no lights.
So I found this place in June, and because of negotiations and some other things we didn’t start construction until September. I started filling out paperwork for a small business loan for a restaurant, and was approved for the loan in June of 2001. My mom put her house up, my dad put his house up, and everybody put everything on the line for this restaurant so I could do this without any partners or investors. I didn’t want to have to go out and source any money from anyone. So I borrowed $500,000 and had to secure it with a million dollars of collateral, and they tied it up for 10 years. I moved to Memphis, got an apartment, and signed the lease on the restaurant space hoping the loan would come through. The actual loan hadn’t gone through yet – so everybody was going on total faith that the money would actually be dispersed. On Monday, September 10, 2001, I went to sign the last of the paperwork for the loan. They had me come back the next day to finalize the papers, and I woke up on September 11, 2001 just like everyone else did. I had applied for a bank loan through the government. The banks shut down that day, and the government shut down. And I had just borrowed a half a million dollars to start a restaurant. We didn’t know what to do. My uncle was my accountant; my step-dad was my attorney. My dad and my mom put up the collateral. We were all at the bank with the notary; no one knew what was going to happen. Luckily everything worked out and the government honored the loan. I signed my name and put my handprints in the cement on September 18 when they poured it; its back by table 30, you can see it. And 10 years later, after lots of learning, here we still are. Was the patio already here or did you create it? The patio was already here. The trees were here, and the brick wall was here. But none of the landscaping. The patio was put in during the ‘80’s when they did a renovation of the Lowenstein Department Store. The Lowenstein family occupied this space from 1926 to the late ‘70’s.
You mentioned to me before that you cook for people the way that you like to eat. How did you come up with that? How do you decide that you’re not going to be grandiose and impressive, that Felicia Suzanne’s is going to be a place where people eat what you like to eat too? That sounds very humble. I have been fortunate that I haven’t had to go back and forth with the concept of the restaurant as the years have passed. I love the romance of Commander’s Palace, Justine’s, of Four Flames. I remember the stories of my mom and step-dad coming home and overhearing their evenings. They would always bring me menus, and I was always excited to see what they ate. It was always a very formal setting, but the food wasn’t. The food was very user friendly. So I wanted a restaurant with white tablecloths, but it’s because my grandmother had her white linens out every Sunday. Along with her china and crystal, she had everything set up. We had fried chicken, green beans, corn, and cucumber and tomato salad. Then she would always get up in the middle of lunch and go make a coconut cream pie. We always had warm pie as she never had time in the morning to make it. She started prepping for Sunday lunch on Friday night or Saturday morning. Sunday morning she would get up, have her coffee, put her hair up in rollers, put her housecoat on with her slip and hose on underneath, get herself ready, take her housecoat off, put her dress on for church, take her hair down, and go to church. She would come back and put all this food out. Plus she owned a floral shop and the phone from the shop would always ring for her to go make something for a funeral. So I wanted that feel of table. My china and silver are very simple. The silverware I’ve had for 10 years has a little heart on the base of it (Just because I thought that was so sweet). The plates were more lady like and not so modern. I cook what I eat because if anything is left over, I have to eat it on Sunday (because we are closed on Monday). I’m not here to impress anyone, I cook what I know. Now, my food is evolving as the years go on, by what I’m reading and my experiences. But I like to fly under the radar. I opened this restaurant because it was a dream of a 9 year old girl in Jonesboro, Arkansas, who was so blessed to have a great loving family that was always at the dinner table. Those are some of my fondest memories of growing up. I still cook on Sundays and have people over. I love to cook all day. Some people see the white tablecloth and say I’m fine dining, but I’m not. It’s not Tiffany, Lenox or silver. It’s a water glass, a plate, a knife and fork, and a linen napkin. I also wanted something to pay homage or honor Justine’s. I love that cuisine, I love the story. One of my mistakes when I opened was to ask the men to wear jackets, because my step-dad and all the men were always in a jacket. My mom and the women would get dressed up when
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they went out to dinner. So everyone thought I was very formal, but when they met me they realized I’m not formal. I’m not in any social magazines, not in any Who’s Who. You are a huge supporter of “Local” – why? Childhood. My grandmother was growing collard greens, she had her garden. My stepgrandmother had a huge garden and she was always canning, pickling, and freezing during the season. I can remember we would go see my grandfather and Joyce (my stepgrandmother) on Wednesdays and she was a wonderful cook. Everything was from scratch. They lived on the outside of town on a farm. He raised pigs so the freezer was always full of pork and beef and fresh sausage. And she had a room for freezers in the car port, and a room for canning. Is that the inspiration for your Flo products? Yes, that was my inspiration for Flo, and the name was my nickname when I was in New Orleans. They started calling me Flo-Jo, and then they dropped the Jo and called me Flo. Emeril always called me Flo. So the product line is an influence from childhood. And it goes back to the farmer also – to buying local. Which local places do you buy from? I get my proteins from Newman Farm, Claybrook Farms, and West Wind Farms, and Alan Benenton (duck farm). Produce comes from True Vine Farm, BennettBurks Farm, Woodson, Whitton Farms, Dodson Farms, Tims Family Farm, Jones Orchard, Mama (at the Farmers Market). I buy dairy from Sweetwater Valley, Bonnie Blue Farm, and Rock Springs Dairy. Caviar is from Kelley’s Katch, Catfish is from Earl Lakes. Nuts are from Delta Pecan Orchard. Flour is from Funder Farm. When the Memphis Farmers Market (downtown) opened, I started sourcing from there. Now I still have to buy warehouse produce too, but I buy from Easy Way and Mike Palazola, two great Memphis families. And are there times when my produce comes
from somewhere else based on availability? Absolutely.
cheeses, and olives to start. And I love the cold pates, Foie Gras mousse….
I feel very blessed that not being a native from Memphis, this city really embraced me and chose to spend their money with me. Therefore, it’s sorta that pay-it-forward, I’m going to spend my money with the locals that are spending with me.
Is there anything you will not eat? I’m not a big fan of offal - sweet breads, cockscomb, all of the other components of the animal that are not typical. And I’m not a big fan of chitlins.
There has been a culinary explosion in Memphis over the last 5 years or so. Where do you think that has come from, in your opinion? It’s hard to say. I think with International Paper, St Jude, and Fed Ex, Memphis has a lot of great companies here that bring a lot of business travelers. Then you add the tourism with Elvis and Stax and everything else; I think it’s a combination of those. And these restaurants have been here, but I think Memphis has gotten a little more under a microscope. These people are going to the BBQ joints but they’re also diversifying to other places. And whether it’s social media, Facebook or the internet, or word of mouth, I think Memphis has caught on. I think Memphis is getting a little bit of notoriety besides BBQ. So you add the addition of great restaurants, and the food writers are coming in to talk about Memphis in May have to eat more than just BBQ. So they stumble upon an Andrew Michael, Kelly English, and Sweet Grass. If you weren’t cooking, off the top of your head, and you had to do something else, what would it be? I would like to be a singer, a performer at places like Jazz Fest. Who is your favorite artist? I love Tina Turner and Patsy Cline. If you had one meal left on the planet, what would it be? It would be Italian and I don’t know in what order it would be, but my mom’s Caesar salad and my mom’s Eggplant Parmesan are my favorites. My friend Jim Jones from Little Rock, his banana pudding is a must. And Bolognese, I make a great Veal Bolognese…. And Coconut Cream Pie so two dessert courses! I love the antipastos, so some cured meats,
Your employees – you treat them as your family and they have been with you a long time. That says a lot about you as a leader. Yes. I opened in March, I hired Hime in May and he has been with me ever since. Raul and Jerome have been with me for 8 1/2 years. Rena and Nacho, on and off for 5 years. My waiters have been with me 3 years. We have some good nights and bad nights, 80% of the time they are great nights. When everybody is communicating, everything is going well. The other 20% is where balls are dropped; we forgot somebody’s order or reservation. So, sometimes heads will roll and I am not happy. But every day I wake up and love what I do. Some days I’m tired, or I have been cussed out at a table. But my staff excels at what they do – I have a lot of older waiters and this is their professional career. This is what they love to do. I have some younger people in school, so it’s a good mix. And we are all here to take care of people and make sure they are happy and have a great experience.
Celebrating Beaujolais Georges Duboeuf has made a name for Beaujolais as one of the premier purveyors of the region. Duboeuf’s offerings are often highly regarded and as a whole quite tasty, I was presented with the opportunity to taste the new releases from 2011. All reds are produced from the Gamay grape, and included are basic Beaujolais-village level wine, as well as a few of the Cru offerings. The whites reviewed are actually from the Burgundy AOC and crafted from Chardonnay. Wines were sourced directly from Duboeuf as samples for review. Notes provided by Chris Thorn.
Domaine Les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages 2011 Slightly tropical with plantain and a bit of straw and fresh lemon oil in the nose, moves to a subtle heat and washed apple with pear skin and supported by citrus tones, softly textured and elegant. Domaine Beranger, Pouilly-Fuisse 2011 Nose shows light straw, Bartlett Pear, and sweet lemon but is relatively tight; in the mouth the wine is richly textured and has fairly good depth with papaya and guava on the finish, great balance and very approachable. Georges DuBoeuf, Beaujolais-Villages 2011 More aromatic than flavor expressive, there is an element of iron and plum on the nose; flavors include blueberry and red grapes. (When tasted later with smoked salmon, wine showed a bit brighter.) Georges DuBoeuf, Chiroubles 2011 Banana chip and concentrated rose water, strawberry jelly and sweet plum attack from the glass, the body is extremely light with a hot entry moving to roasted berry and muddled plum. There is a deep violet note on the finish and a last minute hit of raspberry.
Domaine Des Quatre Vents, Fleurie 2011 Smoky blackberry and grapey with a hot sugar element in the nose, very soft entry offering game meat and blueberry that gets just a bit drier on the finish ending with a candied fruit note reminiscent of “jerky”. Jean Descombes, Morgon 2011 Very open and bountiful nose; expressive with loganberry, strawberry, and lavender, blackberry adds another level in the mouth, soft tannin but a good structure. It comes screaming out of the gate for food. Chateau Des Captains, Julienas 2011 Deep core of cherry and other red fruits framed along a backbone of black pepper and a soft cedar spice at end of nose, amazing depth for the softness, elegant and drinking well; the finish has a cigar note and after the swallow there is a bit of berry that comes back around. This is always one of the best Beaujolais for the money.
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Amerigo
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN 38119 (901) 761-4000 www.amerigo.net Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Sierra Nevada Ovila, Dubbel This limited batch production inspired American style Belgian abbey is well executed. The natural carbonation packs a wallop on the front end but settles giving way to a riddle of redolent bisquity spice, rasiny anise, and caramel and dark chocolate notes. Ovila is a unique collaboration between Sierra Nevada and the monks at the Abbey of New Clairvaux in Vina, CA as they undergo the full restoration of the chapter house at the abbey. The original 12th century medieval Spanish Santa Maria de Ovila stood for 800 years before being dismantled in the 1930’s having been purchased and shipped by newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst to San Francisco where the original stones were to be used to construct a personal castle for him and his family. After decades of storage and deterioration in 1994 the monks gained possession of the abbey ruins and began the arduous process of reconstructing the original abbey. A portion of the proceeds go directly to this endeavor; so crack open a bottle and be a part of history in making.
Talbott “Kali Hart,� Chardonnay This is a passionate endeavor of insurmountable odds by a storied family that made their name in the bespoke tie and clothier industry. Robb Talbott has gone on to express a beautiful benchmark of quality in Monterey Chardonnay. His vineyard site when originally delineated exposed a steep incline of soil free chalky shale boulders which Robb began work breaking by hand with a sledgehammer. He planted the storied Corton-Charlemagne Chardonnay clone and the rest has been history in the making. This particular selection is named in honor of his daughter Kalin and embodies 100% estate grown fruit with great formidable intensity.
Au Bon Climat, Pinot Noir Hailing from the northern outskirts of Santa Barbara, Jim Clendenen has produced in countless years Pinot Noirs of great notoriety and austere. He has made a rock star name for himself in the industry amassing several renowned titles and awards but maintains that throughout all he has consistently produced an incredibly well structured wine absent of pretentiousness. Just 20 miles off the Pacific in a fog covered canyon of gravel and clay soils he has erected an American homage to European style Pinot that unbelievable for the price.
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Circa by John Bragg
6150 Poplar Avenue, Suite 122, Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Baby Arugula Salad, madeira poached pear, brie croutons, apricot vinaigrette & Jean Baptiste Pinot Gris Alsace, France 2009 This is an old school restrained style of Pinot Gris with rich pear, honeyed and golden delicious apple flavors with slight acidity to pair nicely with the triple cream brie, apricot and peppery arugula greens. Alsatian wines are very good food friendly wines.
Spice Rubbed Pork Tenderloin with polenta, shiitake, smoked thyme and apricot & Laetitia, Pinot Noir Arroyo Grande Valley, California 2010 Smoked paprika rubbed Pork Loin with smoked thyme and apricots pairs nicely with this big, rich pinot noir from the Arroyo Grande Valley. The dark berry flavors in the wine and the toasty baking spice coming from the touch of oak mimics the flavors of this dish very well.
Pan Seared Sea Scallops, Wilted spinach, gaufrette potatoes and sauce Americaine & Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, California 2011 Classic dishes like rich scallops with sauce Americaine need an equally rich and full bodied wine to pair with such things. Juicy pear, golden delicious apple for fruit and toasty vanilla infected French oak make this the perfect contrast for the equal richness.
the
bourbon
legacy
Kentucky, just the name alone invokes images of rolling green fields, horses taking to open space, the grandiose headwear adorned by proper southern ladies on Derby Day and sips of the only spirit native to America, Whiskey, but more specifically…Bourbon. The production of, inherent qualities found in, the products have been covered almost to death by us and various other publications. What lacks is the origin, the history and more importantly the legacy that Bourbon has instilled with every barrel produced. Bourbon is studded with fable, and myth; influenced over the years by larger than life characters that have come to shape the notion and flavor of Bourbon as we know it. Names that ring quite familiar to even the most novice Bourbon sipper…. George T. Stagg, Pappy Van Winkle, E.H. Taylor, Col. Albert Blanton, and Elijah Craig, men of stature, some of questionable nature, and even a preacher; however they had one thing in common, they all had a vision for their Bourbon and the
industry that distilled it. We may never know the truth in every bottle, but rumor and stories passed by generation are part of the charm. Folklore designed to serve as bedtime stories for children, a championed tale of family pride and on occasion, some truth. What we do know to be true is where Bourbon came from, Kentucky. Thought the county lines of modern Bourbon county no way resemble the historical boundaries (distilleries are not located in modern Bourbon County, and Bourbon county is dry). It is generally accepted that the name of Bourbon is attributed to here. As barrels of whiskey were shipped by river as far south as New Orleans those barrels were stamped Old( referencing age) Bourbon(origin) Whiskey(and spirit), and as much as can be gathered eventually shortened to just Bourbon to distinguish from other whiskeys. Legend and stories of creation vary from distillery to distillery; changes often are conflicting and the dates and times disputed, some forgotten on purpose.
Bourbon Whiskey was the creation of many men; though, Reverend Elijah Craig is oft credited with the “invention” of Bourbon by aging his corn whiskey produced in barrels (he may have been the first in the area). However, the practice of aging spirit in barrel had existed long before, and the creation of Bourbon was most likely a product of that knowledge finally reaching the area. Also, Craig did own distilleries, but they did not stand in Bourbon County, then or now. Corn was a substantial crop, and it is widely known that starches converted to sugars and fermented can produce alcohol; distillation was no new procedure either. Barrels, charred and made from oak had been used in Europe to age wines and relevantly grape spirits from areas like Cognac. Oak is abundant in the area surrounding Bourbon County, as well. Influence of oak, the local water, and use of corn when put together was not a new idea, the flavor derived from such ingredients is Bourbon, and that flavor is specific to that area. Since commercial distilleries existed before the Reverend it may be safe to assume that this story is more a marketing ploy than fact, but I was not there. The style of whiskey produced would be unlike anything we have known in modern times as during Craig’s tenure the quality protection and production methods that truly make Bourbon, Bourbon had yet to be introduced.
As far as innovation in Bourbon development, the most notable standouts to which history can attest revolve around steps toward quality. The creation of sour mash process in the early 1800s was revolutionary. Attributed to Dr. James Crow (Old Crow), essentially using remnants of previous mash added to current bill, the existing yeast would kick start the next season’s fermentation, not unlike using a “Mother” in the making of sour bread. The carryover helped to produce a more uniform whiskey, while also inhibiting any bacterial development that was unwanted and could possibly produce off-flavors. The other major advancement involved the first steps to protect the name Bourbon. E.H. Taylor, distraught by the misrepresented and poor production standards or lack of production standards, advocated for standards and purity laws after the civil war. 1897 saw the introduction of the “Bottled in Bond Act” and paved the path for government oversight, taxation, and protection of Bourbon. Speaking of government, prohibition cannot be left out when discussing alcohol and the United States, especially Bourbon. The trying times of temperance single handedly destroyed and built the industry at the same time. The enactment of prohibition closed many a distillery in the Kentucky area to commercial sale, though alcohol was still made for military use and some medicinal, it was not made with the same overall care; although that can be debated as quality was beginning to feign again around the early 1900s. The government issued 10 licensures during prohibition for the production of medicinal whiskey, but only about 6-7 were ever enacted. Some distilleries came back after the blessed 21st amendment was ratified, but truly very few “new’ distilleries have opened since 1933.
Which brings us to a fabled and controversial piece, the idea of “America’s Native Spirit”. In 1964, a congressional resolution authored by Kentucky Senator Morton and Representative Watts was presented to the floor as the following: “Bourbon whiskey is a distinctive product of the United States and is unlike other types of alcoholic beverages, whether foreign or domestic; and whereas to be entitled to the designation ‘Bourbon whiskey’ the product must conform to the highest standards … and whereas Bourbon whiskey has achieved recognition and acceptance throughout the world as a distinctive product of the United States … it is the sense of Congress that the recognition of Bourbon whiskey as a distinctive product of the United States be brought to the attention of the appropriate agencies.” This resolution offered an idea of international protection for Bourbon Whiskey, and declared Bourbon a product distinct to the United States, not America’s Native Spirit, which it would turn out is again clever marketing by a Bourbon Giant. The issuance of this resolution solidified Bourbon as an American institution and cleared the way for the explosion of the spirit in later years. 2007 saw a rehash of this resolution to declare September National Bourbon Month, and at that time the words “America’s Native Spirit” were used, but in no way is that phrase protected under congressional rule. As turbulent as the world of Bourbon seems, it is rather incestuous. Distilleries are bought and sold, producing new labels for old products. Names once toted with prominence have
been bastardized and dropped to lower shelves in the name of money. Families have made and lost fortunes over the years surviving war, prohibition, depression, 2 more wars and the emergence of gin, vodka, wine, and craft beer…but Bourbon is resilient and going nowhere anytime soon. Among this disheartenment there stands beauty, conjecture of those in the know. Distilleries such as Buffalo Trace continue to produce
ever encouraging lines and products with rich linage. Four Roses distillery, the phoenix of Kentucky, offers a fairytale in its’ own right, and of course there are a barrel of other producers with rich spirited history and heartwarming product. BUFFALO TRACE is situated in Frankfort Kentucky, the distillery is large, almost a small town unto itself. Over the years the name has varied. Beginning current life in 1870 as the Old Fire Copper Distillery, under the guidance of E.H. Taylor eventually changing hands to the George T. Stagg and various other families before finally resting in the ownership of a family out of New Orleans, the
the
bourbon legacy Other products including the lauded Eagle Rare, Rain Vodka, and various other namesake products of notable owners, employees, and Bourbon lore figures are produced here as well. A joint venture began in early 2002 with the label Old Rip Van Winkle, distributors of the sought after Pappy Van Winkle bourbon, all Pappy is made at the Buffalo Trace Distillery. Pappy was another of the great Bourbon Barons, and perhaps the father of creative whiskey marketing, evidence supported by the vast demand for his product, but perhaps because it really is that good, people cry in the streets for it.
Sazerac Company, other distilleries are often owned by corporation or large beverage conglomerate. The early 1990s saw the birth of Buffalo Trace as we know it. The distillery itself has hosted some outwardly and rightly amazing men and brands. E.H. Taylor in his years built grand buildings in which to make and store his products, declaring that “Fine Whiskey needed a fine home”. Much of the architecture on property can be traced back to his tenure, brick buildings with entrances fit for prestigious mansions served as warehouses for nothing more than aging and storage. Buffalo Trace weathered prohibition by operating under one of the few bonds issued during the time, able to operate throughout those years proved to be the foundation of their success. Enter Albert Bacon Blanton; he took operational control of the distillery after repeal and as a man known for his appreciation of the finer things in life he can be credited with much of the quality enhancement and practices that are performed today, namely Warehouse H. This warehouse was constructed very quickly after repeal to offer additional storage and aging facility to supplement the increased production and demand of whiskey after the end of prohibition. This warehouse was unique as it’s tin sheathed, as opposed to Taylors’ brick housings. The placement away from the river also generates some special qualities; the tin sides regulate summer heat and take advantage of that heat to properly age Bourbon in the mind of Blanton. Blanton was an accomplished chef, and enjoyed entertaining a tremendous amount, often pulling a single barrel from warehouse to
bottle for himself and friends. It is in this tradition and in honor of Blanton’s service that when in the 1980s Elmer T. Lee, then master distiller, marketed and produced the first “Single Barrel Bourbon” it was under the Blanton’s label. There are actually 8 different iconic toppers for Blanton’s and they represent a jockey and horse in various strides of a sprint and each have on them one letter that spells out B-L-A-N-T-O-N-S when side by side. A common misconception that the topper is representative of the Kentucky Derby is not entirely true; the toppers are designed to pay homage to the storied history of Kentucky and horses in general.
Operations today rest in the hands of Harlen Wheatley, master distiller, and are going stronger than ever. Buffalo Trace’s signature Straight Bourbon is a constant award winner and with the addition and expansion of experimental products and even a premium vodka HDW CLIX. Named for Harlen D. Wheatley and distilled 159 times (CLIX is the roman numerical equivalent). As one of the oldest distilleries in the US, it is safe to assume they are not going anywhere. FOUR ROSES, the phoenix and the fairy tale, a brand developed in the later part of the 19th century, with a storied history in line with the rest of Bourbon. The story starts more than a hundred years ago, the name born from southern elegance and romantic ideology or perhaps just named for company founder. As truth is seemingly less relevant in Bourbon, we will assume their story is true. It began when Paul Jones, Jr., the founder of Four Roses Bourbon, became smitten by
the beauty of a Southern belle. It is said that he sent a proposal to her, and she replied that if her answer were “Yes,” she would wear a corsage of roses on her gown to the upcoming grand ball. Paul Jones waited for her answer excitedly on that night of the grand ball…when she arrived in her beautiful gown, she wore a corsage of four red roses. He later named his Bourbon “Four Roses” as a symbol of his devout passion for the lovely belle, a passion he thereafter transferred to making his beloved Four Roses Bourbon.
Truly romantic none the less and as simple as the beginnings seem, Four Roses road has been anything but. Distilled at Frankfort Distilling Co. located in Lawrenceburg since early prohibition years, the brand grew to eminence and became one of, if not the best-selling brand in the US from 1930-1950 and by quality product and clever marketing,
if you can find a full version (uncropped) of Alfred Eisenstaedt’s celebratory photo of a sailor kissing a nurse to mark the end of World War II, you’ll notice a Four Roses billboard prominently displayed in Times Square. Four Roses had much more than 15 minutes, but alas, in 1943 the company was purchased by Seagram’s, many claim specifically for this particular brand. Over the next decade or so, Seagram’s phased out the Kentucky Straight Bourbon in favor of blended whiskeys (Seagram’s was a Canadian Company). The brand of Four Roses, as a real Bourbon was destined to be shipped to Europe and Asia and the label would be decimated domestically, reduced to the bottom shelf and oft described as “gut-rot”. Decades would pass and with every year the longing for US return was pushed for as the spirit continued to grow in popularity overseas. Luckily for us, Seagram’s was not fit to survive and in ’92 the brand was sold to Kirin, a major brewery in Japan, which would speak to the success of Four Roses overseas. With a little effort and some time, employees and production managers were able to convince upper management to at least sell the original recipe goodness to people working at the distillery, and thus the rolling stone could not be stopped and today we are blessed with the colorful and unique Four Roses as was rightly intended. The uniqueness of such storied Bourbon comes in how it is distilled and married for bottling. Four Roses uses a variety of mash bills and several different yeast strains to produce
10 different recipes, which in turn allows significant variation in those final barrels and when it comes time for marriage and then to bottle, the influence can be tasted and seen from a production standpoint, as each offering of Four Roses has a truly unique identity and origin. They are not just products of barrel selection and age duration or location. This innovation is what drives Four Roses to the top in such short order and although the variety they offer is small, there is always a possibility for new products in the future. On the other hand, when a product is good and made correctly, going stagnant is an invariably lesser concern. In short Bourbon is a never ending fairy tale of birth, survival, exchange, growth, and rebranding. All culminating in a world as much misunderstood as it is unwritten, in time new stories will begin as the old fade. Those stories will stem from barrels being rolled along into warehouses as you read this, and one day those bottles shared by a few with cigars in hand will evolve into the Bourbon lore for our grandchildren and great-grandchildren to discuss and argue over, but one thing is for certain they will do it over a glass of Bourbon Whiskey.
Wild Turkey
Woodford Reserve
Four Roses
the
bourbon trail Heaven Hill
Maker’s Mark
Buffalo Trace
Bari Ristorante
22 South Cooper, Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 722-2244 www.BariMemphis.com Photography by Lindsey Lissau
Vendure and Salumi with Castello Monaci, “Liante,” Salice Salentino The various house-made salumi can be as soft as mortadella and lardo or decently firm with some offering a peppery spice and heat. The eggplant marinated with garlic, basil, capers and crisp olive oil is the perfect cooling piece of the antipasta. Matched with a deep and fragrant Negro amaro from Southern Italy, this wine’s dried fruit and spicy aromatics seat nicely alongside the salumi and subtle nuisances’ of the vendure, essentially bringing the two into a dance of balance and complex flavors.
Orecchiette alla Pugliese and Cantina Zaccagnini, Pinot Grigio, Abruzzo Handmade “little ear” pasta lightly tossed with sautéed rapini, tomatoes, cured anchovies and garlic showcase the delicacy needed for a good classic pasta. When paired with the vibrant acid and moderate body of the Zaccagnini, there exists a marriage of flavors. The wine rounds out the cured anchovies merging the decadent flavor with the freshness of the tomato; the body of the wines compliments the pasta’s texture and accentuates the true homemade simplistic nature that is southern Italian cuisine.
AROUND THE VINE “The wines that one best remembers are not necessarily the finest that one has ever tasted, and the highest quality may fail to delight so much as some far more humble beverage drunk in more favorable surroundings.” -H. Warner Allen Education, explanation, and excitement; full of interviews, editorials, and technical information, from these things our understanding of how and why we love what we drink is formed…In Vino Veritas
Brilliance in Bubbles with Eileen Crane
by Allison Jacob and Chris Thorn Eileen Crane, Domaine Carneros’ founding winemaker and president is equally at home in the world of food and fine dining. She was selected personally by Claude Taittinger for the position of President/Winemaker of Domaine Carneros, dedicated to producing world-class sparkling wines made in the French tradition from famed Carneros region grapes. Eileen oversaw the planning and development of the beautiful Carneros landmark chateau, vineyards and winemaking facility. In 2003, Eileen directed the planning and construction of Domaine Carneros’ second winemaking facility, dedicated exclusively to the production of Pinot Noir wines. Eileen is one of a handful of women who are now in the forefront of the wine industry in California. Recently recognized as one of the 75 Most Influential Women in Business by the San Francisco Business Times, Eileen is actively involved in numerous wine and civic organizations and is a past president of both the Carneros Quality Alliance and the California Classic Methods/Classic Varieties Society (CM/CV) and currently Chairs the Board of Napa Valley Hospice.
and I get invited to that regularly. There are also groups in Napa where the women tend to get together more casually than men do. I’m in a book club that is all women and ¾ of those people are in the wine industry in some way. It seems perhaps that we all do similar things or we just like to have a network of friends to call on. One of the issues still is that if a man and a woman are in the same room with the same story, sometimes the woman isn’t heard.
According to William Heintz, a wine historian now deceased; who did a lot of research on women in the California Wine industry in the 1800’s said that in 1890 10% of the winemakers in California were women. 400 women owned vineyards in California, and the wines from the women winemakers won not only state competitions but also won Paris competitions.
How did you get started in winemaking as a whole? I grew up in New Jersey where my father worked on Wall Street. He had a wine cellar. He was in the Second World War and was interested in wines while in Europe. He would let me taste and from the time I was about 8 I had my own glass. In college and graduate school I became the dorm guru and people would ask me to help pick out their wines. So I had to start learning things because I wasn’t that much of an expert. Winemaking was always in the back of my mind but I didn’t know anyone in the industry. There were wineries in upstate New York but they were run by old Italian families which wasn’t what I had. I had another career which luckily was in science and gave me the background for getting in the wine industry. I took a summer off from the University of Connecticut and went to the CIA in New York and while I was there I joined a wine club and met a real live wine maker. He was from a small premium winery in the Hudson River Valley. He had this book about wine making and viticulture from the University of California at Davis. I asked what was going on out there; is there a department? Do they offer courses or degrees? He said he
AJ: Woman power! Then prohibition came along and the wine industry was dominated by the church and the underworld, neither of which were known for promoting women. So women completely lost their purchase at that time. Do you find that you spend more of your time with men or women winemakers or both? Both. I was part of a CEO Roundtable that was all women. There is a group of women winemakers in Sonoma that get together monthly
had no idea, he just had the book. So, I called until I could find the right person. I made an appointment to come in and talk to a professor there. He made it very clear I would need to do another undergraduate degree and another master’s degree in winemaking before I could ever get a job in the wine industry, and that no one would ever hire me because I couldn’t do the barrel work. He suggested I call the nutrition department to see about getting a PHD. I said you can do that but I’m going to be a wine maker. He said “I don’t think so.” There was a brand new woman professor at Davis; her office was still full of boxes because she had just gotten there. Her name was Ann Noble, (she has become very well known since then with her flavor wheel). She was willing to talk to me and said “You don’t need any more degrees, take some classes and convince somebody you can do it.” I took classes for four months and learned everything I could. I begged my way in classes and audited everything they would let me audit. It was an interesting time to be in the business because there were other people doing the same thing; Gil Nickel from Far Niente, Carol Anderson from SC Anderson, and regular people like Bruce Cakebread, Randall Grahm. This was when the industry was just starting to explode. There weren’t enough people through with a degree so the opportunity was open, and it helped that I had a science background. It was a great explosive time! For the first summer I started as a tour guide part time at Chandon and almost starved. Shortly thereafter the CIA lost a pastry chef so they asked if I would work in the pastry kitchen. Then the original wine maker quit so there was a young woman who was going to run the harvest as the chemist and she asked if I would help her in the lab. Of course, that was the beginning. I was there for six years and went from lab tech to chemist to enologist to assistant wine maker of that time. Then I was hired by Franzia to oversee construction and development. I was only there for three years. It wasn’t what I wanted to do. It was a very different sort of thing then. I had an old acquaintance here and when they started to interview people, I hadn’t applied because they sounded like they were going to hire a kid out of Davis. But they called me and said they needed someone that can put the project together. I came and talked to them and it was obvious in the first 10 or 15 minutes that it was a match. And I’ve been here 25 years. Have you always done bubbles? Always done bubbles, yes. And people say, “Why do you do bubbles?” People don’t understand, we as a country have been exposed to bad bubbles. I see people on the deck and they say I’m only here for the Pinot Noir; I really don’t like bubbles. Sometimes the woman will get the bubbles and the boyfriend will get the Pinot Noir, or the reverse. And when they taste the bubbles, they say “Whoa, I could drink this.” You see this expression because they have had what I call wedding
wine. Or there is this sense that it’s decadent or only for special occasion. So why only bubbles? It’s what I want in my glass; it’s what I drink. Why do you think it’s important for women to have a leadership role within the wine industry? You’re a model and potentially a mentor for women who want to get in the industry. I have been a mentor over the years to many women. If there are no women or you never knew about women in the industry you would think “I can’t.” It would be very daunting. And I think still it is. Sometimes I say to people I’m mentoring; (when they ask where to look for a job) you need to look for a winery where there are some women in positions of authority. Because if you go to a winery and it’s all guys (and no women in key roles), it’s giving you a message. You need to look at what the hierarchy looks like. And it’s not necessarily that it’s even in winemaking, per se. Look at the marketing director or the production director or the vineyard director, or even the communications director. At least, if there are some women in more than baseline jobs then there might be an opportunity. Another thing I think is very useful for people trying to get into the industry is to either find something that is a startup or find something that is undergoing a major change and then work like the devil there, because there is going to be fallout. When we started, within the first two years we had at least 50% turnover. The culture was evolving and some people didn’t fit right. Now people come and we ask them questions about culture to see if they are going to be a cultural fit. Those are two great pieces of advice. If a woman comes to you and says what else can I do, is there anything else you would offer? We know these are not the most high paying jobs; agriculture never is. You really have to understand that coming in. This has to be something you want. You live and work in a beautiful place, and the jobs have odd little perks to them. You may have dinner at some restaurant that you would never consider going to and spending the money, but you are there entertaining. So there are beautiful parts to the job, but you have to understand if money is your main concern, this probably isn’t the place for you. It can take time; you can’t be impatient. Some of the people I mentor are coming out of San Francisco and they say I have to do this or I have to do that. You have to have perspective. We hired someone that does our marketing, and she came from a credit card company and was working seven days a week (she was working her two days at a wine shop to learn everything she could about wine). She didn’t come to the winery to figure out what we were doing, she already knew. She took great initiative. I have people
that come here for a job interview and they have never been here before. We are open seven days a week and you didn’t take the time to come visit here first to see what we do….? What are most proud of in the 30+ years you have been doing this? And what have you yet to accomplish? I’m not sure I would have had a good answer for you several years ago as I do now. What I’m most proud of now, historically, and still very proud of, is the wines we make. We’re really dedicated. We try to do everything as correct as we can. We grow 95% of our own grapes and all of our vineyards are certified organic. We have a real commitment to doing things as perfect as we possibly can. Something that has evolved over the last three or four years (part of it was the economic downturn) made us really consider this: to come up with a vision, a real clarity of how we’re going to get to our mission: where we want to be, who we want to be. We are specific about where our place is in the wine industry as purveyors of luxury goods and purveyors of delights. We asked ourselves what is the culture that supports that? How do we create that kind of commitment everywhere in-house? Because someone you hire on the side of the harvest can make a big mistake. Or, if you have someone out on the front line in the tasting room that doesn’t convey that enthusiasm, doesn’t take the time with you to show you how to taste sparkling wine or make suggestions like “You’re already here, why don’t you just taste a little bit of x…?”; all those little pieces of getting everybody together, matter. What I’m most proud of is our current process of developing a strong mission and making all the pieces we contribute follow that vision and ensuring we all stay on track and not be persuaded by adverse circumstances. One thing we do as a group (managers and directors) is read one business book a year and discuss it. It’s part of our progression. It keeps us thinking and moving ahead. If you weren’t making wine, what would you be doing? Well, it’s possible I would be a perfumer, because I like scents. Or a florist because I like to arrange flowers. Stepping out of that I might have been a necrologist or archeologist; I love history and putting together the puzzle of what’s happened in the past.
AROUND THE VINE
A further exploration of terms related to wine and winemaking Aeration: deliberate addition of oxygen to wine to assist in rounding out and softening a wine, begins when the wine is first opened. Aeration can be accelerated by allowing wine to sit in glass or with the use of a decanter. May take only minutes or can continue over the period of many hours. Hectare: A metric measure of area equal to 10,000 square meters or 2.47 acres, used almost exclusively to define vineyard area and holdings. Lees: Dead yeast cells, grape skins, seeds, and other grape solids that accumulate during fermentation. On occasion a wine will be referred to as Sur Lie or “on the lees” indicating it has been aged for a short period in contact with these solids promoting a yeasty flavor and aroma, mostly seen in Chardonnays and Champagnes. Pomace: The mass of skins, pits, and stems left over after fermentation (the lees); often used to make Grappa (Italy) or Marc Brandy (French). Racking: The process of siphoning fermented wine to a new clean container to separate the “lees” This process promotes stabilization and clarity. Winemakers will at times engage in the process of bâtonage or the stirring of the lees, instead of racking to create more contact between skins, seeds, and the juice. Négociant: French, a person who buys grapes from different growers with the intent of crushing and bottling the wine under their own label. Used widely in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley; examples include Louis Jadot, George Duboeuf, Guigal, and Jaboulet. Ullage: the empty space left in bottles and barrels as a wine evaporates over years, not always a bad thing but can be indicative of improper storage. During aging, barrels are constantly topped off to prevent oxidation due to ullage. Riddling: also known as Remuage. The labor intensive process of gradually rotating and increasing the angle of racked Champagne bottles in order to shift sediment toward the neck for removal, historically done by hand (and still so for prestigious cuvées) but largely accomplished by a computerized gyropalette.
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AROUND THE VINE
Mas carne señor A stunning trip through South America
“Mas carne señor?” I couldn’t believe what I was hearing! More meat? After being served salad, empanadas, veggies, potatoes, sausages, ribs, flank steak and rib eye the lady was asking if I wanted more. Yes, the food was wonderful, and the atmosphere was grand, and the company was stimulating, but . . . . . more meat? And this was our first night in Mendoza. We snuck across the Andes that afternoon from Santiago (I say “snuck” because we were able to avoid the turbulence gods and had a most pleasant one hour flight from one side of South America to the other.) We’d all heard about the foods and wines of Argentina and Chile but had never experienced them first-hand. Sure, we’ve all tasted South American wines and gone to Americanized Argentine Steakhouses but this was the real thing. We were fortunate to be included on a 10 day South American wine trip conducted by Fran Kysela, owner of Kysela Pere et Fils of Winchester, Virginia. Not only is Fran a purveyor of fine wines, he is also a Master Sommelier and really knows how to combine the pleasures of South America with an interest in the cultures, foods and wines. We started in Santiago, the capital of Chile, on the west coast of the continent. We were in luck that this winter has been quite mild. Remember, our summer is their winter: a fact that can confuse some people when it comes to the vintages of the southern hemisphere. While you might instantly think of the fantastic meats we were to try, Chile was all about fish – ceviche, conger eel, and others. And avocados – the most luscious and tasty avocados you’ve ever tried. I know, it was winter, but they were abundant. Chile is the world’s second largest exporter of the avocado. They are also a protected species (of a sort.) The avocado groves we saw were protected by eight foot electric fences. To start our adventure we had a Pisco Sour, a South American cocktail made from Pisco, an Andean grape brandy, egg whites, and bitters, followed by ceviche and avocados accompanied by a glorious 2011 Rubus Chardonnay and a 2010 Viña Siegel Cabernet Sauvignon. The Chilean portion of our adventure was sponsored by Bodegas Siegel in Santa Cruz (about an hour south of the capital), owned by a gracious gentleman, Alberto Siegel, Senior. He escorted us to several of his vineyards as well as his new project, a beautiful new vineyard atop a sculptured hill in the foothills of the Andes. Unfortunately, for our bus anyway, the road required us to ford a large stream. After being assured by the locals that the bus would easily make it we forged on, only to be met with a large “clunk” as the front bumper departed the bus and began floating downstream. The bus was stuck. With no help in sight it was up to one intrepid soul to wade into the water, retrieve the bumper, and guide the bus driver out of his predicament. Believe me when I say the water was cold! That evening Senor Siegel provided a magnificent dinner at his home. It was probably the highlight of the trip. We also had the chance to taste through a selection of Siegel reds: Carmenere, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and their Grand Crucero. The next day we had the pleasure of lunch at a beach resort called Las Brisas where we enjoyed some wonderful Siegel Sauvignon Blancs. Then, on to Santiago, escorted by Alberto Siegel, Junior,
for an introduction to a local culinary phenomenon: the Lomito. Simply put, take a large Kaiser roll half, add lettuce, tomato, a gallon of avocado paste, home-made mayonnaise and a pound of sliced pork that has been stewing in juice, and stuff the other half of the roll on top. Don’t forget the aji – a wonderfully hot Chilean sauce. Then, back to the hotel for . . . . Pisco Sours. So, off to Mendoza, Argentina. While Santiago is definitely a modern city, Mendoza might be considered a few decades behind. Three hundred miles south of Buenos Aires, Mendoza lies on a route over the Andes. In fact, we went up to the border between Argentina and Chile – some 3000 meters (nigh on to 10,000 feet) for a lunch and some sightseeing. Along the way we were able to see the route taken from Argentina to Chile by José de San Martin (the liberator of Argentina, Chile and Peru) in the early 1800s. Our Argentinian escapades were directed by representatives of Bodegas Chakana and the young ladies were thrilled with the dashing Gabriel, winemaker, and Gonzalo, their U.S. agent, not to mention the young assistant winemaker, Facundus (how many of you have ever met a Facundus?) We spent several days with these fine young men visiting several wineries and vineyards, with fantastic tasting dinners where we sampled a myriad of wines from young to not-so-young. We learned that Chakana is one of the leaders in scientifically examining the various soils on their properties, from the air as well and on the ground, to determine the best vines to plant and how to care for them. They have not only blended their wines well but have blended their processes to include high-tech information gathering with age-old viticulture resulting in some truly stunning wines. One of the highlights of the trip was a visit to the Aroma Room at the Bodegas Belasco. Developed by a Spanish winemaker who decided to duplicate his Spanish winery in Mendoza, the Aroma Room provides visitors with the opportunity of smelling over 40 different natural smells that are often found in wine. While we all may be familiar with violets, lemon, and such, the flavors of flint and coriander and many others are not so well known. It was a truly educational experience.And, there was more meat. Each bodega visited insisted on entertaining us with an Asado, the local name for a barbeque. The meats are grilled over a marvelously simply open fire and do justice to the Argentinian reputation for steaks. At one bodega we were treated to a Tango demonstration presenting the history and story of the Tango, a most exotic and provocative dance when done properly. Yes, the wines were great, the food was magnificent, the group a fun group, and the hospitality unbelievable. However, probably the most amazing aspect of both countries was the scenery. Every minute of daylight we were confronted with the most beautiful vistas on the Andes one can imagine. Truly spectacular and definitely a plus to an already great trip.
By Charles Warner
Margerum Wine Company Happy Canyon Vineyards & Cent’Anni Bring Memphis to Santa Barbara By Allison Jacob August 9th to 11th Chef Participants: Brandon Hughes – Wine Cask, Santa Barbara | Felicia Suzanne Willett - Felicia Suzanne’s, Memphis Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman - Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, Memphis |
Rosie Gerard – Wine Cask, Santa Barbara
With special guest Josh Hammond of Buster’s Liquors
Thursday, August 9th
Friday, August 10th
Wine Cask is locally owned by Doug Margerum and Mitchell Sjervon.
Wine country is Santa Barbara is an entirely different bird than the
An iconic landmark in the Santa Barbara community, this multi-faceted
quintessential Napa Valley. Don’t get me wrong, Napa is a killer place
restaurant is a food and wine dream for the sensory dining lovers. Wine
to visit, but when I rounded the pass to enter the Santa Ynez Valley,
Cask greeted our Memphis group with open arms as we poured into
outside of Santa Barbara, all bets were off. Rolling hillsides, plush
the open air patio pre-dinner, to sample lightly decadent offerings of
landscapes nestled alongside extreme mountainous terrain, the valley
Rabbit pate, mini onion tarts, and ocean fresh oysters. Four courses
is almost an oxymoron. In between the ranges are plots of land, so
followed in the tastefully vibrant Wine Cask dining room. Four savory
perfect, they almost appear surreal. Therein lies the commercialized,
chefs and a talented pastry chef showed off their creative culinary
not usually open to the public, wineries of the Happy Canyon. Set
talents. Absolutely decadent. The wine pairings, expertly chosen by
alongside multiple polo farms (side note: each street in the Happy
Doug Margerum were outstanding. A meal like this deserves great
Canyon is named after a Kentucky Derby winner), this wine country
appreciation. I was honored to be a part of it.
has a substantially more relaxed feel to it. Imagine a feast for the senses as your eyes gaze over hundreds of acres at a time. This countryside demands you take it all in. Friday was HOT! It was almost as though we brought Memphis with us! Heat didn’t phase us, though, as we enjoyed a gluttonous spread of salads, roasted meats with chimichurri, fresh salsas, pico, charcuterie, cheeses… shall I go on? As lunch was wrapping up, the polo match began. As this was my first live polo match to witness, I was in absolute awe of the elegant athleticism of these players. The grandeur of the horses was a spectacle I couldn’t take my eyes from. Throughout the day we were treated to various wines, some familiar favorites of mine: Chukker, Piocho, Margerum M5, to name a few; and some brand new to me and now NEW favorites: Dierburg, Grassini, Cimarone….this girl was in heaven. Cimarone 2008 CIMARONE GRAN PREMIO is our estate Sangiovese. GRAN PREMIO is a blend of two Sangiovese clones situated on the south face of our Three Creek Vineyard located in the Happy Canyon area at the east end the Santa Ynez Valley. We get a classic expression of old world Sangiovese akin to remembrances of Tuscan dry red wines. 2007 was an ideal year as the grapes flavored before ripeness allowing us to pick without excessive sugar. We fermented entirely in barrique open top wood fermenters which yielded a wine with fine tannins, subtle fruit, spiciness, an earthy complexity, with persistence, and length. Varieties: 100% Estate Sangiovese 2008 CIMARONE LE CLOS SECRET is French for the hidden vineyard, which is where we grow our best Cabernet Sauvignon on a block only visible by our two neighbors. This is our premium wine, containing
AROUND THE VINE
In 2005 we arrived at the concept of Astral after recognizing the exceptional quality of the hillside plantings near the top of the Star Lane Vineyard TASTING NOTES: Black cherry, cassis, violets and dark purple aromatics present in the nose. Focused dark berries produce a beautiful core, with hints of mocha and cocoa unfolding on the palate, adding to the density of the wine. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon 52%, Petit Verdot 29%, Cabernet Franc 19% 2008 Pinot Noir Vintage notes: The 2008 vintage included such weather as early Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec.
season rains, a spring frost and then a wild heat wave, all of which
Following double hand-sorting of the grapes, we use a combination of
we navigated with great success. Our diligent effort in the vineyard
open top 225 liter French oak barrels and small open top fermenters
reduced the vines vigorous canopies and green harvest. Fastidious
in our cool winery and aged the wine for 20 months in French oak
sort work was also required. The 2008 vintage presents beautifully in
to produce a fruit-filled highly structured wine with complexity and
the glass because a smaller crop size highly concentrated flavors.
finesse.
TASTING NOTES: Opens with a room-filling bouquet of cinnamon,
Varieties: 50% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec
redwood, Chandler strawberry, and our characteristic “Santa Maria
and 8% Petit Verdot
spice” – a mélange of spices, particularly black pepper and cumin. Mid palate notes of small red fruits and baking spice are given further
2009 3CV Syrah is a handmade Syrah for $16 is a rarity. The estate fruit
depth by hints of iron, mocha, and cedar box. Varietal: Pinot Noir 100%
is manually punched down in open top fermenters in our very cold cellar, assuring gentle extraction, soft tannins, and fresh bright flavors
Syrah (N/A)
of the grape. Very dark in color with aromas of pepper, earth, licorice,
In making our Dierberg Syrah, our focus is to farm the Syrah blocks
cola and plums.
in such a manner to get the deep expressions intense color and
Varieties: 100% Syrah
perfumed aromas from careful viticulture. TASTING NOTES: Shows its typical dark fruit character in the form of
2009 3CV Cilla’s Blend is our chic designer wine; a graceful blend
blueberry and huckleberry. This vintage is also complimented by more
of Cabernet and Syrah. The wine is made from exceptional estate
subtle red fruit aromatics, particularly cranberry. There is a wonderful
grown Happy Canyon AVA hillside hand-sorted fruit. Fermentation is
savory character on display with notes of hung game and pancetta
performed in open-top barriques using classic manual punch-down.
giving support to prominent floral character. The palate weight is round
The wine is then brought up for twenty months in a combination of
and giving with a sort of lean, dusty presence marked by a top note of
new and neutral French oak barrels in the cold Cimarone cellar. The
wet clay. Varietal: Syrah 100%
full-bodied and classically structured wine made from the Cabernet is blended with the ripe savage Syrah to yield a wine of beauty and elegance – just like Cilla. Varieties: 69% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. 2010 3CV BANK is our best known wine – you’ll find it in a lot of restaurants by the glass. We specialize in Bordeaux varietals and BANK contains pretty well all those that our vineyard produces: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Merlot. We’ve added a little – 8% of the total - of a luscious Syrah as it fleshes out the tannins and rough edges we find in young Bordeaux varietals. The result is an eminently drinkable wine, that is dark, grapey, and earthy with rich supple lines and an explosion of flavors. Varieties: 47% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Syrah, 4% Merlot, 3% Malbec, and 3% Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon (N/A) 2010 3CV Sauvignon Blanc
The tiny AVA where we’re based –
Star Lane Cabernet is from our estate vineyard located at the far
Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA – is developing a reputation
eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley, in the new “Happy Canyon of
for go-to Sauvignon Blanc. We used Italian stainless steel refrigerated
Santa Barbara” appellation.
tanks to target a crisp, clean wine with grassy, tropical and citrus fruit
TASTING NOTES: A pretty garnet color in the glass, this wine seduces
aromas with full, textured persistent bright flavors and richness in the
with its initial aromas of black plums, figs and cinnamon. With further
mouth. 90 points from James Suckling and at $16 probably the most
inspection, layers of pepper, pipe tobacco, graphite and hints of
satisfying white wine you can buy!
sandalwood intrigue the nose. While the wine presents a firm and
Varieties: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
focused structure, the mid-palate is supple and the finish is silky and lithe.
Star Lane Vineyards
Varietal: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc,, 3% Petit
Astral (N/A)
Verdot, 1% Malbec
AROUND THE VINE 2010 Sauvignon Blanc Star Lane Vineyard is located at the far eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley, in the new “Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara” appellation. The low nutrient soils of Happy Canyon keep the yields low and the quality high. Our small block of Sauvignon Blanc is planted at the south end of the vineyard where we see a marine influence, with most days beginning and ending under a shroud of cooling fog. TASTING NOTES: Our 2010 Sauvignon Blanc opens with creamy citrus notes accented by hints of Kiwi and Fuji apple. These delicate aromas are joined on the palate by more citrus fruits, particularly lemon, pink grapefruit, as well as nuances of orange peel. There is a long finish of cut apple, ripe citrus with beautiful minerality that our wine is known for. Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc 100% Grassini Family Vineyards 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (N/A) Opening with a powerful and complex aroma, the broad range of fruits displays ripe apple, distinct peach and an array of exotic tropical fruits such as pineapple and guava. The fruit is framed by a touch of balanced oak giving the wine butterscotch and spice nuances. On the palate, this full-bodied wine is rich and round, building to a full midpalate and long finish where the flavors of peach and guava linger on. 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (N/A) Featuring aromas dominated by ripe red fruits. Raspberry and blackberry join plum and cherry in the nose of this complex wine. Clove, caramel and mocha notes from aging in French oak barrels frames the fruit and aroma. On the palate, distinct and powerful flavors
2009 Chardonnay
of red berry fruits abound. Full, yet balanced, tannins carry through to
Dierberg Vineyard is situated atop a sandy loam mesa above the
a long, detailed finish.
South Bank of the Santa Maria River. The vineyard, located in the near-extreme Western part of the Santa Maria Valley AVA, is one of
2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon-Reserve (N/A)
the coolest vineyards in the appellation. This attribute, combined
This Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon boasts a rich and complex aroma
with the sandy, marine-based soils, creates Chardonnays with high
of dark fruits, highlighted by our best oak, with a hint of earthiness.
acidity. Following harvest we use a mix of time-tested techniques from
Blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum aromas soar with the aid of a
Burgundy in combination with less traditional techniques more suited
floral component. All wrapped in oak notes such as toast, chocolate
to the unique characteristics of the vineyard. The result is a lush, mouth-
and vanilla cream, this full-bodied wine builds to a powerful mid-palate
filling Chardonnay balanced by crisp acidity.
where the fruit intensity gives a sweetness to the flavors. Abundant
TASTING NOTES: Our 2009 Chardonnay opens with vibrant orchard fruit
tripe tannins carry the wine through to a very long finish.
aromatics, particularly Anjou pear and Fuji apple. With air, these are augmented by autumnal scents of baking spice and Marcona almond. Racy on the palate, this is a vintage full of fresh, mineral energy- hints of sea shell and river stones that dovetail into a long, mouthwatering finish. Perhaps our most precise expression of our Santa Maria vineyard yet, we expect this vivacious Chardonnay to age beautifully over the next 6 to 8 years. Varietal: Chardonnay 100% Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills (N/A) Our newest vineyard is located on the eastern edge of the acclaimed Santa Rita Hills appellation. The Drum Canyon Vineyard was planted in 2005 to take advantage of the hillside characteristics, southern
Saturday, August 11th
exposure and the extreme maritime influence of the appellation.
BBQ at Margerum Wine Company, 59 Industrial Way, Buellton, CA 93444
TASTING NOTES: On the nose, aromas of bright red cherry and lush
Santa Maria BBQ vs. Memphis BBQ, 3-6pm, 150 people
raspberry mix with lingering notes of cola and cigar. The soft spiciness
Doug Margerum will be barbequing local favorites like tri tip versus
of sage lends to a long, elegant finish. With hints of allspice and
Felicia, Andy and Michael who will be roasting a whole hog. Both
persimmon, this round, full-bodied wine shows great acidity that would
groups will be preparing a number of side dishes to pair with their
pair beautifully with seared duck breast and a cherry glaze. Varietal:
meats. This will be the first event held at our new winery facility.
Pinot Noir 100%
AROUND THE VINE estate grown stainless steel fermented (one-third whole cluster) Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a very little Syrah added in just for fun. It is not Beaujolais Nouveau (that November release date is just too early) but it is fresh and delicious. CHUKKER is a wine like no other - fun, fruity, young, dashing, drinks great, and is inexpensive. CHUKKER is a new spring tradition. 2010 M5
The blend: 40% Syrah (56% Colson Canyon Vineyard, 19% Black Oak Vineyard, 16% Purisima Mountain Vineyard, 5% Great Oaks Vineyard, and 4% Alondra de los Prados Vineyard), 21% Grenache (76% Rodney’s Vineyard Grenache Noir, and 24% Mesa Verde Grenache), 9% Mourvèdre from Curtis Vineyard, 9% Counoise from Camp Four Vineyard, and 13% Cinsault from Camp Four Vineyard. Also included is The weekend wrapped up (sadly) with a bang. Margerum’s new facility was opened, and broken in by, our Memphis group with an atypical cookout. No complaints here as Andy and Michael (Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen) roasted away a whole hog, along with other delightful goodies from Felicia Willett, Richard Williams, and others. Once again, the wine was generously flowing. Doug Margerum certainly knows how to host guests. A damn good time! Margerum 2010 Vin de Pays Rosé, France The Grenache used in this wine is grown at 550 meters and sourced from geologically complex soils. The grapes are all handpicked and double sorted, yielding superlative fruit. The wine is gently pressed and fermented very cold. We make this wine in a unique way. We saignée (bleed) off a little of the juice from the Grenache and ferment the slightly pink must just like we do the rest of our whites. We then blend back in the RED Grenache out of a neutral barrel into the rose wine to give tannin, complexity and seriousness. The result is a bright, fresh, crisp and refreshing wine that can be enjoyed year-round. 2011 Chenin Blanc (N/A) This wine was made from the old vines fruit grown on the original Firestone family vineyard that was planted in the early ‘70’s. 2011 SYBARITE Sauvignon Blanc SYBARITE is our definitive Sauvignon Blanc. An amalgamation of all of the top Sauvignon Blanc vineyards we work with. It is crafted from Sauvignon Blanc grown at McGinley Vineyard (38%), Three Creek Vineyard (32%), Grassini Vineyard (22%) and Curtis Vineyard (8%). By blending these diverse vineyards we get bold expressions of Sauvignon Blanc’s range of flavors. The result is a wine with remarkable complexity, texture, persistence, and length. SYBARITE is a general term for describing one fond of pleasure and luxury. SYBARITE is derived from Sybaris, an ancient Greek city in southeastern Italy noted for the luxurious, pleasure-seeking habits of many of its inhabitants. It is pronounced Sib-bar-right. Varietal: Sauvignon Blanc grown at McGinley Vineyard (38%), Three Creek Vineyard (32%), Grassini Vineyard (22%) and Curtis Vineyard (8%). 2009 CHUKKER CHUKKER comes around (as the name implies) each year as the perfect wine for the season. CHUKKER is inspired by the great Chinon and Bourgueil wine from the Loire Valley that are served cool and consumed mostly in Paris bistros. This year’s CHUKKER is a blend of
2% Genesis of M5 (a co-fermentation of everything but Syrah) and 6% M3 (a blend of 2008 Black Oak Vineyard Syrah, 2009 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Grenache and 2010 Curtis Vineyard Mourvèdre). Multi Vintage Syrah Notes from Doug: I set out to make an extended barrel aged syrah so I held back a few barrels each of the 2008 Alondra de los Prados, Black Oak and Colson Canyon Syrahs. As I was getting ready to bottle the 2009 single vineyard wines I thought about the M3 experience – I had done a restaurant cuvee for our keg program blending three vintages; 2008 Syrah, 2009 Grenache, and 2010 Mourvèdre. I really liked the juxtaposition of the aged Syrah – older bouquet, spice, earth with the slightly aged fruity Grenache blended with the super fresh, bright fruit, dark young Mourvèdre. Thanks to Roger & Cecilia Higgins Doug Margerum Chef Brandon Hughes of Wine Cask The entire Staff of Wine Cask Felicia Willett of Felicia Suzanne’s Richard Williams Andy & Mike of Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen Pastry Chef Rosie Gerard of Wine Cask Cimarone Winery & Three Creek Vineyard Star Lane & Deirberg Vineyards Margerum Wine Company Happy Canyon Vineyards Grassini Family Vineyards
AROUND THE VINE
Chardonnays e l b da r o ff A e Divers
&
By Monty and Sara Preiser Reprinted by permission from Coastal Carolina Life magazine
I
t has been fashionable in some circles for
and anyone who searches out what is
thought of the day), as with everything else,
quite a while to opine that Chardonnays
available can really never become bored
a Chardonnay needs to have balance.
are boring, or simply don’t stack up to white
with this grape, because it is almost never
Whether it be political orientation, religion
French Burgundies (mostly made from
the same. Add to that our belief that one
or winemaking, balance is most often
Chard). In fact, an entire silly subculture
should have a goal for a wine (pairing
the key. As that relates to Chardonnay,
grew up around the initials “ABC”, which,
crisper unoaked Chards with shellfish and
winemakers
in wine world fringes, meant, “Anything But
light sauces, perhaps, or maybe oaked
concentrating on how to best combine
Chardonnay.” Don’t believe it.
Chards with fowl and heavier sauces), and
all the tools available to make a wine that
that there is enough about this varietal to
will please the palate of the consumer
make it exciting and challenging.
when sipped alone or savored with food.
As proud Chardonnay lovers who taste
worldwide
are
now
Now, we commonly see Chards aged
hundreds each year, we can tell you that to lump all U.S. Chardonnays into
Clearly the pendulum as to what people
in new barrels and old barrel, or in both
one category is uninformed at best, and
prefer is in constant motion. One might
barrels and stainless steel. We find Chards
foolish at worst. If any grape lends itself to
drink gin for years, tire of it, go to scotch,
where
multiple processes of production, and thus
and then return to gin. We personally
been artificially stopped after a certain
a myriad of taste profiles, it is Chardonnay.
enjoyed Zinfandels for a long time, moved
percentage of the completion is done
to big Bordeaux-style Reds for a while, but
in order to tone down the butter. And in
Even a short list of some of the factors that
are returning to Zins (which are, achieving
greater numbers all the time, grapes are
influence a Chardonnay’s ultimate taste
their best balance and profiles in many a
being harvested earlier to allow for a
should well illustrate our point. Consider the
year). So it is not surprising that for many
final product with less alcohol. All of this is
soils in which the vines grow; how long the
consumers Chardonnay would be caught
fine – it permits the consumer scores and
grapes were left on the vine, thus affecting
up in the same type cycle.
scores of choices, but also tons of fodder
malolactic
fermentation
has
for confusion.
ripeness and sugar levels; whether the wine was fermented in barrels or steel
Over a long span of years, the majority
tanks; whether the wine was aged in
of the American public clearly preferred
Today we feature 11 Chardonnays that
barrels or tanks; If aged in barrels, for how
highly oaked Chardonnay that had been
are not only excellent in their own right,
long, and in what types (or in combination
put through malolactic (secondary and
but can usually be purchased for the
of)
went
often abbreviated to m/l) fermentation,
surprisingly low price of $32 and under.
through secondary fermentation (which
which brought on the illusion of butter
Those not aged in oak are often a bit less
would turn the malic acid properties into
in the mouth. About a decade ago,
expensive for the obvious reason that no
the smoother lactic acid); and whether
however, marketers and some producers
barrels were used. So if that is your style of
it aged on “the lees” (dead yeast cells
started
of
Chard, it is your day when you find some
naturally occurring from fermentation) to
“clean,” “minerality” wine and thus, that
good ones. Yet, it would be difficult to
make it creamy.
pendulum’s arc went far afield, and overly
drink only unoaked Chardonnays. They
austere (and less expensive) Chardonnays
might pair better that oaked (of varying
the
were in vogue – no oak, no m/l etc. Just
degrees) wines with some dishes, but a big
easily
the steel fermented grapes showing their
Chardonnay with great balance of oak,
origin.
acid, and ripeness, can well accompany
With
barrels;
so
whether
many
winemaker,
the
decisions
Chardonnays
wine
facing can
display every type of nose, body, palate,
trumpeting
the
virtues
a great many proteins, including meats
and finish one can imagine, and these sensory aspects can be interchanged
There certainly is nothing wrong with
so traditionally thought of as a red wine
into enough variations that it would take
the concept of “un-oaked” and “non
dishes.
months to experience them all. Therefore,
m/l” Chardonnay. We like many of them.
there is a Chardonnay for everyone,
However (and here is the most important
AROUND THE VINE
Oaked
Unoaked
2010 Benziger Signaterra “West Rows” • The winery’s best selling wine – full-bodied due to oak aging with crispy minerality and stone fruit notes due to lower alcohol levels than most at pick time. Complex and fresh - a hard duo to get right – but here it is.
2011 Chamisal Stainless • Fermented in stainless steel and seeing no oak whatsoever, it is made from fruit grown in a number of Central Coast regions, and thus is very diverse in flavor. Enjoy apples and pears seemingly washed by fresh stream water. An amazing buy.
2011 Peju Estate • Though favorite descriptives for stainless steel Chards, “vibrant” and “bright” can also refer to a well-made barrel fermented wine. Witness this one, which sat on the lees for six months and aged in completely 25% new French oak. A big wine full of spices.
2011 Foley Estate Steele • A terrific wine that was aged in stainless steel tanks for ten months, and went through no m/l. Its freshness is apparent from the lemon-lime nose, its crispness is obvious, and the minerality on the finish reminds us of fresh well water.
2010 Raymond Reserve • Amazingly long finish and big body for a wine of this modest price. There are flavors of peaches with a hint of nuts (perhaps hazel) that follow a particularly elegant nose of jasmine. The wine is aged in 100% French oak for two months.
2010 Hess Collection Napa Valley • Made from 100% Chardonnay, this lovely wine is smooth with a nose of honeysuckle and pear, a mid-palate of Granny Smith apples, and a finish of apricot. Only about a fifth of the wine is aged in new French oak barrels.
2011 Rombauer Carneros • No Chardonnay is better known than this mega award-winning beauty. It is unapologetically creamy, smooth, melon and citrus influenced with a huge body. Oak aging and m/l provide color and lots of buttery components.
2010 Marimar Estate Acero • If you know Spanish, you know this wine has not seen oak. “Acero” means “steel”. We get pears on the nose, and perhaps because the wine went through m/l, some creamy banana and vanilla in the otherwise crisp, minerality middle.
2009 Russian Hill Gail Ann’s Vineyard • Melons are all over the nose of this rich, layered wine where half was aged in oak (giving it color, depth, and body), and half in stainless steel (providing liveliness and minerality). The balance allows many pairing opportunities.
2009 Simi Russian River Reserve • Wonderful balance – 100% Chard aged 14 months in French oak (50% new and 50% 1 year old) with outstanding fruit throughout. You will get hints of citrus, nuts, and even a little pineapple. The first whiff is honey-like, which foretells the wine’s luscious body.
2011 Mer Soleil Silver • Fermented in stainless steel and cement tanks (the latter being in vogue), and there was no m/l. Scents of a rocky river bed first hit the nose, followed by hints of bananas and grapefruit. The winemaker recommends consuming chilled.
WINE PRICE RANGE = $30 or less
= $31 or more
Photography by Jean-Marie Côté, thefrenchguy™ photography
Grapes by any other name By Chris Thorn
The world is often divided into two camps, and I am not talking Romney/Obama. Discussion of merit, truth and the dominance of new world or old world styling is a very real discourse among wine enthusiasts. Stylistically there are extreme differences in technique, production, viticulture and many other facets affecting the final bottled product; differences however, boil down to preference and subjection. These factions are split over the origin of influence, the essence of the product itself. In the court of old school Europe, wines are labeled regionally (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rioja, etc..) and viniculture is controlled by a fairly strict regulatory board all meant to protect the place of the wines birth and the phenomena we understand as terroir. Fast forward to the so called “new school” where there exists a more laissez-faire approach to agricultural regulations and the wines are typically labeled varietally (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Chardonnay) or with proprietary names if they do not conform to the varietal requirements. Wines are then labeled by appellation and/or sub appellation (Napa, Willamette Valley, Mendoza). The confusion develops when you do not know what you are drinking; fear comes from the unknown as the outside of the bottle is more complicated than anything inside. I dare not take sides, as I am not here to champion one or the other, as long as wine has identity, a certain typicity, and a general loveliness I am all for it. Since in general the new world wines are what we are most familiar, this is an examination of the more prominent old school wine regions, a key to decoding the grapes used to produce these wine styles, the relevant rules governing, as we have seen the old school can be a bit stringent.
Bordeaux We have been down this road many times. Arguably, the most trophied wines in the world come from here and although the major names only represent a very small portion of total production, they are why we know the name Bordeaux. The famed region is fairly easy to understand, significantly larger than most
people assume, (total production accounts for roughly a quarter of France’s overall regulated output) there are sub-appellations that provide for individual areas of protection outside of the most basic overall requirements. French sub-appellations are referred to as communes, and the most famous in Bordeaux include: (from North to South) St-Estéphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux, Pomerol, St-Emilion, Pessac-Léognan, and Graves. There exist another 29 or so accepted communes whose combined vineyards exceed that of the previously mentioned by at least a multiple of ten. Grapes here are simple: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot, and Malbec for reds, while whites are produced from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillion, and Muscadelle (white wines account for 10-15 percent of production). Blending varies from Chateau to Chateau, but generally Cabernet dominates on the North-West side of the Gironde River, and Merlot is highly praised in areas as the river turns east. White wines can be a varied blend suited more to taste than terroir, but it should be noted that Bordeaux also produces some of the most expensive and sought after sweet wines from Sémillion as well. In the new world, wines that follow the footprint of Bordeaux are often referred to as Claret, Meritage, or carry some Fantasy name. If imitation is the best form of flattery, than Bordeaux is always blushing.
Burgundy For a place that produces only two truly successful grapes, Burgundy is one of the most complicated regions in the world. The influence of Napoleonic code requirements related to inheritance have proved to make the region ridiculously difficult to understand, as at times a grower or family may only own one or two rows of vines. Coupled with the elevated value of the land itself, acquisitions of new property are few and far between. For simplicity, Burgundy is divided into two areas; The Côtes de Nuits in the North and the Côtes de Beaune in the South. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the only grapes worth mentioning, but small amounts of Gamay and Aligoté do exist. In the North, almost all wine produced will be Pinot Noir, however in the northern most area of Burgundy is a
Chardonnay growing area known as Chablis. In the Côtes de Beaune, wines in the upper portion are predominately Pinot Noir and as you travel South, Chardonnay takes over. Regulations in Burgundy are a bit more specific than Bordeaux but can be openly vague at times. Vineyard yields, trellising, how and when pruning requirements and a minimum /maximum alcohol level are all controlled by the regulatory board. Burgundy is most notable for the use of the négociant system, further complicating the already complex. Négociants buy grapes from neighboring growers; press, produce and bottle under their own label in the name of the commune or region the juice originated from. In the new world, winemakers often strive to emulate the finesse of Burgundy in their own wines, often importing cuttings of infamous Pinot and Chardonnays clones (referred to as Dijon, Pommard, etc.) On an end note, expecting Grand Cru quality wine just because the wine was made from one of these clones is akin to buying a Chuck Berry Guitar and expecting it to wail Johnny B. Goode. Easy transition here, high acid more earth driven Pinot drinkers will delight.
Rhône Valley (Côtes Du Rhône) Things begin to get a bit more complicated in the Rhône, as there are a total of 21 allowable varietals and a various mixture of them including white being blended into red wines. In the Northern Rhône, Syrah is the only used red grape but Viognier, Marsanne, and Roussanne represent the white production. There are small sub-appellations that restrict to only one grape; Cornas produces only Syrah, Château-Grillet and Condrieu produce only Viognier. Other appellations allow for upwards of 20 percent white varietals blended into the Syrah, though not common in all areas, it is allowable. Viticulture and viniculture requirements vary a touch from commune to commune. In the Southern portion of the valley, we find the home of Châteauneuf-du-Pape perhaps the most recognizable appellation. Châteauneuf allows 13 different varietals and has lax rules governing the blending but general tradition has given that reds are blends of Grenache, Mourvédre, and Syrah. Whites are made from Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Clairette and Picpoul in an ever increasing array of proportions. Due to rolling terrain and the size of the southern Rhone, extreme variances exist in winemaking and agricultural restrictions as much as style from one village to the next. The négociant system again plays a major role here. Merlot drinkers, Syrah nuts, and those that like something a bit more powerful than Pinot Noir can find treasures here.
Rioja A jump south, we move into Spain were winemaking is heavily influenced with the traditions of the French. Spain however, is a smidge stricter on winemaking. In Rioja reds usually consist of a majority of Tempranillo with Grenache (Granacha is Spanish) and Graciano. Aging requirements are the most notable feature of Rioja, and can be divided into three tiers. Crianza wines see at least two years of aging, with at least one year in oak. Reserva wines step up to three years aging, but still require only one year of those in oak. Gran Reserva wines kick the requirements up to five years aging with a minimum two years in oak. Note: these labels do not indicate quality, just that the winemaker followed a more stringent regiment of oak use and aging, which is correlated to supposed quality, but not indicative. White wines from the region are based on Granacha Blanco, Macabeo, and Malvasia and not quite as famous. Rioja has seen some modernization in style and occasionally a cross into new world territory, Cabernet Sauvignon is being used on a wider scale, and growing quickly in exported quantities. Anyone can find love for these wines, there are examples with high acid and structure unrivaled in the new world, and some of the Gran Reservas can mimic classic Bordeaux profiles.
Chianti Simple and easy here, Chianti is the region often mistaken to be the grape as well. The actual grape variety is a guaranteed 75% Sangiovese and can contain up to 15% of authorized international varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah serve as the currently
approved internationals, but as history has shown, the Italians are not afraid to bend or change the rules as needed. There still is a bit of white blended in, but at 2% it is more for show than function. Inside Chianti you find Chianti Classico and inside Classico you find Chianti Ruffina, respectively the areas get smaller and supposedly quality increases. These wines are a must revisit for high acid Pinot lovers and fans of bright Spanish wines.
Barolo Nebbiolo as the grape, extremely low yields and two years aging in oak casks. Would seem very straight forward, Barolo is uncomplicated except in what it produces. Wines are still made with power and elegance embodying terroir differential and passion. The embrace of tannin and acid simultaneously make these wines destined to be laid down for some time, but in all their glory they sit unmatched in the world of wine.
Amarone Intriguing in and of itself, Amarone is unique as it is one of the few still wines produced from “dried” grapes. After picking, the grapes are sorted and whole clusters go into drying containers and are stored in a drying house where temperature and humidity can be controlled; time will vary from producer to producer and there is no minimum or maximum time. Regulatory rules govern things a little differently here. Since Amarone is produced from within another DOCG (Valpolicella) the rules dictate the percent of grape harvest that can be utilized for Amarone production to discourage overproduction. The grapes themselves are Corvina and Corvinone with some Rondinella. In all, Amarone is more about tradition than regulation.
Order Confidently St-Estéphe Sant eh Steff Pauillac Paw-yak Pessac-Léognan PAY Sac-LEO gah Non Graves Grahv Rioja Ree-O-ha Amarone Ah-ma-ROH-nay Pouilly-Fuissé pwee-Fu-say Beaune Bone Nuits Nwee Châteauneuf-du-Pape Shah-toe-nuff-duh pahp Mersault Mare-so Montrachet Mon-rah-shay
Local Gastropub
95 South Main Street Memphis, TN 38103 (901)473-9573 localgastropub.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Seared Tuna Tostada accompanied by our Memphis Mule Cocktail The delicacy that is tuna lends well to the unique flavors of the Mule, offering candied ginger and thyme the cocktail easily compliments the Japanese-fusion with a marinated cucumber salad and Thai dressing, there is depth and flavor. The ginger beer and sugar used in the drink add a sweet component that helps to offset any mild heat generated by the inclusion of wasabi. While the toasted sesame seeds can poke through and surprise the tongue with texture and richness.
Chili Crusted Skillet Striploin with a Barboro Sour Beets and sweet potatoes, a fried egg, and house-made chimichurri give this already flavor laden favorite another layer. The myriad of different pieces needs a stalwartly cocktail to accentuate the deep pops and rich foodstuffs. Enter the Barboro Sour; a tasty little blend of Rye whisky, lemon, sugar and wine. The Sour has the weight and spice from the whisky to measure up to the demands of such an elaborate dish, while the addition of wine provides for flavors not typical of a sour spiced cocktail. The lemon truly makes the egg seem airy and the rich fruit and supple tannin of the red wine still interacts with the beef and the earthiness of the roasted beets.
Other than Pol Roger Champagne….?? ha!
White Chocolate Peppermint Martini
Classic Sidecar
2 oz. Godiva White Chocolate Liqueur
1 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice, 1 ounce Cointreau, 1
1 oz. Stolichnaya Vanil Vodka
ounce Cognac – combine in a shaker of crushed ice, shake,
1 oz. Peppermint Schnapps
strain and serve.
1 oz. whipping cream
A budget version substitutes Patron Citronge orange liqueur
Combine ingredients in a martini shaker filled with ice. Shake
for Cointreau and Ibis XO Brandy for Cognac, but there is no
and pour. Rim with melted chocolate and crushed candy
substitute for fresh lemon juice.
canes. Garnish with a white chocolate covered peppermint
Caution is advised. These are highly intoxicating.
stick.
Gary Burhop- Great Wines & Spirits The French Kiss One of my all-time favorite cocktails is a classic Manhattan. I
1 oz. Chambord
love to play around with the traditional recipe & come up with
1 oz. Grey Goose Vodka
different takes on it. To me the holidays are all about spices.
1 oz. dark crème de cacao
With that being said I crafted the Xmas City
1.5 oz half and half
Xmas City
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass.
3 oz Rye Whiskey (Prichard’s, Smooth Ambler or Bulleit) 1/4 oz St Elizabeth’s Allspice Dram 1 oz Vermouth Rouge (I prefer Dolin, Punt e Mes
Buffalo Trace Blender
or Martini & Rossi)
1 1/2 oz. Buffalo Trace Bourbon
Combine ingredients in an ice filled shaker, stir to combine, pour
1 1/2 oz. Cranberry Juice
into chilled martini glass. Garnish with a lemon peel studded
1/2 oz. Lime Juice
with cloves.
1 tsp. Powdered Sugar
Cheers! Michael Hughes – Joe’s Wines & Liquors
Blend with a cup of ice until smooth and pour into a cocktail glass.
Buffalo Trace Pumpkin Latte 2oz Espresso
Baileys Caramel Appletini
1oz Buffalo Trace Bourbon
1 oz. Baileys® with a Hint of Caramel
3oz Buffalo Trace Cream Liqueur
.5 oz. Smirnoff® Green Apple Flavored Vodka
¼ teaspoon brown sugar
1 slice apple
¼ teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon caramel
¾ teaspoon pumpkin spice
Directions:
Whipped cream or frothed milk for topping
Pour Baileys with a Hint of Caramel and Smirnoff Green Apple
Prepare Espresso as you normally would…and add an extra
Flavored Vodka into an ice-filled shaker. Shake until chilled
ounce for added coffee flavor. Add next five ingredients and
and strain into a pre-chilled martini glass. Garnish with apple
top with whipped cream or frothed milk. Sprinkle a little extra
slice. This recipe contains no more than 0.6 fl. oz. of alcohol per
nutmeg on top for some extra holiday spice. Enjoy!
serving.
From The Stellar Cellar
From Josh Hammond, Ana Hammond and John Vego at Buster’s
Ashton & Missy’s Sparkling Merry Apple Berry (Forget milk with Santa’s cookies…he’ll definitely prefer this!!!) 2 parts Thatcher’s Apple Ginger Liqueur 2 parts chilled Prosecco 1 part chilled Lambrusco or sparkling red wine Combine all three ingredients in wine glass or champagne flute. Garnish with cinnamon stick and candy cane. The Stellar Cellar
Favorite Holiday Cocktail
from the
WAITERS STATION Server’s share their peeves on customers wine orders
www.circamemphis.com
Why would you assume I have a “real job” or a day job? ~Brian
There are just too many brands for us to carry them all, I am sorry we don’t have that exact spirit, but if you are willing to talk to me I can find you another. ~Jamie
Yelp is not the answer… please please please, ask for a manager or inform me of the problem so we may correct it immediately. ~Craig
Ordering a glass of “Pinot” does not complete an order…there is Noir (red) or Gris/Grigio (white) please be a bit more specific so there is no confusion ~Sam
There are times when what you’re drinking will affect what you eat and vice versa, take that into account before you say you don’t like one or the other. ~William
901.746.9130 In Tennessee, you can take an unfinished bottle of wine with you. Think about it for a minute, it might be cheaper to just order a bottle, and more often better quality. ~Kelly
6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119
SIDE BAR “Wine is made to be drunk as women are made to be loved; profit by the freshness of youth or the splendor of maturity: do not await decrepitude.” -Theophile Malvezin All things wine related but that don’t involve pouring juice into the glass, these make me feel better the next day…
T
he question I get the most by the want-to-learn-more wine lover usually revolves around whether I have a tasting group, or if I can do in-home events, dinner parties, etc… I might be giving away my trade secrets, but the way I see it, if I can engage more people in wine drinking and exploration then my job just got a whole lot easier! So when I am approached to present an event as such, there are three basic formats I use and tailor the event to the client. I present these to you as a more informal and approachable design I like to call The $20 Tasting, the basis being a get together with friends and new wine experiences. First send out a feeler for how many people you want to involve, could be 5, could be 50 but the more you invite the trickier wine buying gets. Once you have an estimate of people, the process goes like this…Each person kicks in $20 for a night of fun, friends and perhaps some education; but really it’s about the fun and friends. I have seen people in the past attach this as part of a pot-luck or a backyard BBQ, those possibilities are endless. It is easiest to collect the $20 as people arrive, not in advance by the way. Once you have an idea of how many people will be attending, here is the math: 3oz of wine per person from each bottle and I have found that 5 different bottles is the average attention span. This equates to 15oz of wine for each person or 2.5 glasses, you would spend more than $20 at any bar in town for that. Now since there are roughly 25oz in a bottle you can pour 8 people from one bottle. So far the math is looking great! The $20 you collect is not to profit or pad your pockets, but to buy wine that might be a little more money than you would normally spend, and what’s really fun is adjusting the price lower for the first selections and giving yourself more buying power on the latter selections (8*$20=$160/5=32$ per bottle!) Now, how to select wine is where the three layouts take effect: 1. Regional exploration is a personal favorite. Buy wine from just one region, all different producers. If buying new world wines labeled by grape, try to buy different grapes, if buying old world style stuff, focus on a mix of red/white and varying producers. 2. Grape flights are a great way to taste around the world and assess variations in production globally. You also begin to get into the difference between old world / new world styles. Pick one grape variety and buy bottles from different regions, the greater the variance of regions the more successful the tasting. European wines are traditionally labeled regionally, but a touch of Google or a retail pro can help. 3. Slightly more advanced is the regional comparison. Pick two regions and pit their prominent grapes against each other, try to match styling in weight and body for a fair comparison or throw all the rules out the window and taste New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc partnered with South African Pinotage. I have found to liven the evening, put the wines into a brown bag or other wine bag…I have even used painter’s tape in the past. The idea is to hide the bottles’ producer and grape. This way guests can enjoy and discuss the merits of the wine without any preconceived notions. This addition can be combined with any of the above for a more interesting tasting. I also like to encourage the whole bring-your-own-glass concept as well; I feel it instills a sense of ownership on guests and keeps the night a little less hassled. Wine charms are always good to have for this type of event as well. Whatever you do, do not forget the corkscrew!
SIDE BAR
The
20 dollar
Tasting By Chris Thorn
SIDE BAR A Magnificent Beneficial Wine Tasting:
M ak i ng o f th e
-18th Annual -
Sip Around the World
W i n e Ev e nt C o u r t e s y A ng e l a M o o n
Like a flock of birds, they migrate each year to The Botanic Garden around the first week of November to sip the nectar of a thousand vines. Wine lovers from around the Mid-South eagerly gather to experience hundreds of wines, many highly allocated, at what has become one of the largest wine tastings in Tennessee, ‘Sip Around the World.’ This marks the 18th year Athens Distributing Company of Memphis has hosted this truly anticipated event which supports the National Kidney Foundation of West Tennessee. It’s a festive evening that welcomes over 1,200 people. Each person is greeted with a detailed program that includes a map of tables and the wines being poured at each, and an empty glass to fill again and again. From champagne to port, Pinot Noir to Sangiovese, dozens of varietals from hundreds of regions are selected to take one on an oenological trip around the world. A fabulous fundraiser that has not only stood the test of time as a must do event, but one that has continually raised the proverbial bar year after year. Last year’s addition of a ‘champagne lounge’ (at a minimal additional fee), featuring scrumptious appetizers provided by Chef John Bragg, was spot on. As with most things fabulous, however, the devil is in the details. Throwing a party for over a thousand (give or take a couple hundred) of your closest friends, especially your (sniff) wine friends, can be tricky. And a lot of work. To host that party year after year for 18 years is no small feat. When Athens Distributing Company, the largest distributor of wine and spirits in Tennessee, decided to turn its annual trade tasting into a public tasting and fund raiser for the National Kidney Foundation their expectations were high, but few could have imagined that 18 years later, almost 20,000 bottles poured and hundreds of thousands dollars raised would be the result of a simple wine tasting. Okay, maybe not so simple. Organizing a tasting of this magnitude takes skill, bravery, and a whole lot of wine. Phillip Aviotti, Vice President of Finance at Athens, has been the logistics man for this fundraising bacchanal from the very beginning. “We have learned a lot over the years about traffic flow, wine placements, and hopefully we have improved the event every year. We were very excited about the addition of the champagne lounge last year,” he said. “When Mr. Aaron (Jack Aaron, President of Athens Distributing Memphis) approached the National Kidney Foundation all those years ago, he believed in building a class act fundraiser for a very worthy cause. I think we have succeeded on many levels, especially in how much money we have been able to raise. And with attendance of over a thousand people every year, I guess we are doing something right.” Basking in the glow of past success is fleeting when Mr. Aviotti begins to explain the man hours required to actually get that party started.
Man hours? “I would say several hundred hours. It’s more than just the physical billing and delivery. There are meetings throughout the year with Ginger (Wilkerson, Vice President of On Premise Wine Sales at Athens) coordinating the suppliers, getting them to agree to fly into town to explain their products to the attending public. Not only do they fly here and provide their wines, they also donate a booth fee for the fundraiser. There are meetings with the Kidney Foundation to discuss new ideas, problems, logistics, traffic flow, etc. But I can’t even imagine how many man hours the National Kidney Foundation puts in each year for this.” A few gray hairs? No comment, said Mr. Aviotti. He did, however, estimate that between 17,000 and 20,000 bottles have been poured in the 18 years of ‘Sip.’ That’s a lot of cork wreaths folks. Ginger Wilkerson, Vice President of On Premise Wine Sales at Athens, has spearheaded the inner workings of this massive event for over 10 years. Organizing suppliers and wineries, picking the wines, mapping the arranged areas to ensure proper flow, on top of working with local restaurants and retail stores who generously donate items for the auctions, can be like choreographing a Martha Graham dance company. Some lessons learned over the years? “Spread the love.” For instance you may find a highly allocated Amarone next to an inexpensive but delightful Prosecco. Each of the over 30 tables will offer at least seven choices of wine, some high dollar, others reasonably priced. Another lesson: Food! Hors d’oeuvres from Anne Barnes and her Just for Lunch staff are placed throughout the building, reducing traffic jams while keeping the imbibers sated: Hundreds of pounds of cheese, more brownies than at a Dead concert, a whale-sized amount of shrimp, meatballs ad infinitum. As far as the wine choices go, the sky is the limit. Paul Hobbs, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Niebaum-Coppola, Bergstrom, Duckhorn, Merryvale, Frog’s Leap, true ‘grower’s champagne,’ highly rated wines from both North Berkeley Imports and Kermit Lynch, are just a few of the past and current offerings. “Wineries donate large format bottles for the live and silent auctions,” said Ms. Wilkerson, “But my favorite auction item was the dinner for six at Merryvale Winery in Napa. Although the donations of diamonds and furs are rather special too!” Why November? “We just felt that was the best time of year to do this event. What better way to kick off the holiday season than by drinking the best wines in a beautiful setting like the Botanic Gardens,” said Mr. Aviotti. The event takes place November 2, 2012 at the Memphis Botanic Gardens. Look for coverage in subsequent issues, or purchase tickets which will be available at the door. Contact the Kidney Foundation at (901) 683-6185 for more information or advanced ticket purchasing.
SIDE BAR
Wine & Cheese: A match made in heaven
Ask Chris at Lucchesi’s. He will be glad to help you....
A little bit more cheese-centric this time, the cheeses are listed by type, then country of origin and finally the animal that produced the milk. We have included a little extra information to introduce the style and finish with recommended wine or beer pairings. Watch for this series to grow in future issues! Roquefort, France, Sheep One of the world’s best-known blue cheeses; it is white, tangy, crumbly and slightly moist, with distinctive green veins. Wine: Syrah offers a unique pairing here, try Northern Rhone and Washington bottling’s to elevate the experience. Camembert, France, Cow Soft, creamy, similar to brie but with more aromatics; first made in 18th century Normandy. Wine: The strong aromatics here call for a heavily hopped beer to offset, try high IBU pale ales. Brie, France, Cow Perhaps the most well know French cheese, soft and spreadable, lemony and at times fruity. Wine: Champagnes, Blanc de Noir sings best. We have found Cava to be enlightening as well. Morbier, France, Cow Semi-soft, Line of flavorless ash to prevent a rind form forming during the aging process, nutty and mild but offers deep aromas. Wine: Gamay works well; domestic offerings are limited so try the Beaujolais cru Fleurie. Fontina, Italy, Cow Mild somewhat nutty flavor while rich and fruity flavor. Wine: Chianti Classico or Châteauneuf-du-Pape for the full effect. Manchego, Spain, Sheep Most popular cheese from Spain; flavor ranges from mild to sharp depending on age. Wine: Roja wines are obvious, but also Blonde Ales and Hefeweizen Gouda, Holland, Cow Sweet and fruity, with age it can become caramel like and hard Wine: Cru Beaujolais, namely Brouilly or Morgon Emmentaler, Switzerland, Cow Nutty, fruity flavor, mild, full. Wine: Pinot Noir from Russian River Valley or Germany (Spatburgunder) Blue Stilton, England, Cow Semi-hard cheese, greenish blue vein, quite famous Wine: Sherry offers a nutty perspective, classic pairings center around Sauternes or other sweet styles Huntsman, England, Cow Hand-layered Blue Stilton and Double Gloucester cheese imported from England. Wine: Belgian Dubbel or Tripels’ are perfect
Cheese: Luxury at its Finest Please consider Lucchesi’s for all of your gourmet cheese needs. Roquefort and Caramelized Onion Tart 1 layer pastry dough 3 medium onions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 2/3 cup Roquefort cheese, crumbled 4 eggs 1 cup half and half 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed ¼ teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Fit the pastry into a deep-dish pie pan. Line the pastry with parchment paper, fill it with dry beans, and then bake it for 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and allow it to cool for 10 minutes. Remove and discard the beans. In a large skillet set over low heat, melt the butter and cook the onions in it for 20 minutes, until they’re tender. Turn the heat up to mediumhigh and sprinkle the sugar across the onions. Sauté the onions and sugar until the mixture turns golden brown. Layer the caramelized onions and crumbled Roquefort cheese onto the bottom layer of the pastry. Beat together the eggs, half and half, thyme, salt, and pepper. Pour the egg mixture over the onions and cheese. Bake the tart for 35-40 minutes, until the eggs are set in the middle. Cool slightly and serve. This Roquefort and caramelized onion tart makes 8 servings.
Pears and Camembert From Martha Stewart One 8-ounce wheel Camembert or Brie cheese, cold 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 large Bosc pear, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice 2 tablespoons brandy 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary, plus more for garnish 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 8 walnut halves Slice cheese wheel in half crosswise; set aside. In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt butter. Add diced pear, and cook until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in brandy, and cook 1 minute more. Add rosemary, and stir to combine. Remove from heat, and spread pear mixture over bottom half of reserved sliced cheese wheel, reserving 2 tablespoons mixture for garnish. Transfer cheese to serving plate. Return skillet to stove, and heat balsamic vinegar and honey until simmering. Simmer mixture until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool, about 5 minutes. Pour half the glaze over cheese and reserved pear mixture; top with remaining half of cheese wheel and pears. Drizzle with remaining glaze, and garnish with walnut halves and rosemary. Serve immediately.
Stilton Steak Sauce 1 1/2 cups Stilton cheese 1/4 cup Hellmann’s mayonnaise salt (optional) 1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper Shave or crumble about 1- 1 1/2 CUPS of the Blue cheese into a small heavy sauce pan. Add about 1/4 cup Hellman’s full fat mayonnaise. (This is the emumiant that keeps everything together). I add a LOT (a full teaspoon) of pepper, I grind it right into the pan. Fresh really makes a difference. Add salt to taste (I don’t use any if I use the rind of the cheese as it is often hardened with salt). Warm the pan slowly while constantly stirring. It will melt, don’t give up. If you heat it too fast, or don’t still it will separate. The mayo will forgive some sins, but not many, so stir! This will make a THICK sauce. More mayo will thin it some. Milk can thin it if it is too strong.
Pancetta-Wrapped Dates Stuffed with Manchego Cheese and Mint From Bon Appétit 20 Medjool dates 20 whole fresh mint leaves 1 3-ounce piece Manchego cheese, cut into twenty 1 1/2 x 1/4 x 1/4-inch strips 4 3-ounce packages thinly sliced pancetta (Italian bacon) Cut small slice off 1 short end of each date and discard. Using tweezers or needle-nose pliers, carefully remove pits from dates through small opening; discard pits. Place 1 mint leaf across opening of 1 date, covering cavity. Using 1 cheese strip, push mint leaf and cheese into date cavity. Using fingers, pinch date opening closed. Repeat with remaining dates, mint leaves, and cheese strips. Wrap 3 pancetta slices securely around each date, enclosing date completely. Place pancetta-wrapped dates on baking sheet, spacing slightly apart. DO AHEAD: Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake dates uncovered until pancetta is crisp and bottoms of dates caramelize, about 30 minutes. Using tongs, transfer dates to platter and serve warm.
SIDE BAR
Baked Rigatoni with Bechamel Sauce
Bechamel sauce 1/2 cup unsalted butter 10 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 quart whole milk, at room temperature 1 pinch fresh nutmeg sea salt white pepper 1 cup grated fontina 1/2 lb thinly sliced prosciutto, julienned 1 lb dry rigatoni pasta 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Bechamel sauce: In a 2 quart saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and whisk until smooth, about 2 minutes. Always stirring, gradually add the milk and continue to whisk until the sauce is smooth and creamy. Simmer until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. This will take approximately 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in nutmeg, 1/2 cup fontina, prosciutto and season with salt and white pepper. Set aside. In a large pot, bring to a boil 6 quarts of salted water. Add the rigatoni and cook for about 5 minutes. Since you will be cooking the pasta a second time in the oven, you want to make sure the inside is still hard. Drain in a colander. Return pasta to the pot and pour in bechamel sauce. Using a wooden spoon, mix well until all the pasta is coated with the sauce. Into a greased 13 by 9-inch baking dish, pour the pasta with cream sauce. Smooth out top and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup fontina. Dot the top with diced butter and bake in oven for 25 minutes or until bubbling and the top is golden brown.
Stuffed Sliders Published in Gourmet Live For Burgers: 3 pounds ground beef, turkey, lamb, or pork 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley (or other fresh herbs; see Cooks’ Notes) 2 small garlic cloves, crushed with a garlic press 6 ounces Gouda, chilled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes 30 (2-inch; a.k.a. party size) soft rolls, such as potato and brioche, or mini pitas Toppers: lettuce, sliced tomatoes, coleslaw, pickles, sliced raw onion and/or sautéed golden brown onions (see Cooks’ Notes), ketchup, barbecue sauce, and garlic yogurt sauce (see Cooks’ Notes) Gently combine meat, eggs, cheese, parsley, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper with your hands. (Do not overmix). Form scant 1/4 cupfuls of meat mixture into about 30 meatballs. Push a cheese cube into center of each ball and encase meat around cheese, then slightly flatten each ball to a 2-inch diameter. Broiler Directions: Preheat broiler. Put half of sliders on an oiled rack of a broiler pan and broil, turning over once, until just cooked through (no longer pink), 4 to 8 minutes total. Repeat with remaining sliders. Grill Directions: For easy entertaining, go with a gas grill. Preheat all burners on high, covered, 10 minutes, then adjust heat to medium-high. Grill sliders, in batches if necessary, turning once, until just cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes total. Make sliders with toppings and rolls.
Three-Cheese Souffle Food Network Magazine 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for greasing 1 1/4 cups finely grated parmesan cheese 1 tablespoon cornmeal 3/4 teaspoon minced garlic 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Kosher salt 2 cups whole milk 1 1/2 cups finely grated comte or gruyere cheese 1 cup finely grated emmentaler 4 large eggs, separated, plus 2 egg whites 3/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Sliced baguette, for serving Pate and/or apple butter, for serving (optional) Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375. Butter the bottom and sides of a 2-quart souffle dish up to the top edge. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup parmesan and the cornmeal. Place in the freezer while you prepare the souffle. Make the roux: Melt 6 tablespoons butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and add the garlic. Stir in the flour, nutmeg and 2 teaspoons salt and cook, stirring, until the flour is cooked but not browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the milk and simmer, whisking constantly, until the mixture is as thick as pudding, about 5 minutes. Stir in the comte, emmentaler and 3/4 cup parmesan until melted, then remove from the heat. Stir in the 4 egg yolks one at a time. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir to cool slightly. Beat the 6 egg whites and lemon juice in a large bowl with a mixer until soft peaks form. Fold a quarter of the whites into the cheese base, then fold in the remaining whites. Place the prepared souffle dish on a baking sheet, pour in the batter and smooth the top. Run your finger around the inside lip of the dish to push the batter away from the edge and create a ridge. Scatter the remaining 1/4 cup parmesan on top. Transfer to the oven and immediately reduce the temperature to 325. Bake until golden and puffed about 2 inches above the lip of the dish, about 35 minutes. Serve immediately with baguette slices and pate and/or apple butter, if desired.
Tailgating Executive Chef Jonathan Steenerson at Ciao Bella
Mike Rice at Claybrook Farms
Colorado State. Good old Jim Beam / Beer would be Yazoo Hop
When I get the chance to get away, I enjoy going to watch my
Project from Nashville or Ghost River Red from Memphis. Char-grilled
Alma Mater, University of South Florida. Raymond James stadium is
Claybrook Farm Bratwurst / Sausage with peppers and onions
a great place for tailgating and watching college football. I usually reach for Jack Daniels on the rocks with a splash of water but I like
Michael Ticer and Andrew Hudman at Andrew Michael Italian
Knob Creek too. A cold domestic light beer is always on ice as well!
Kitchen/Hog and Hominy
I would definitely bring ground beef for Claybrook burgers and
Auburn, Ole Miss and Memphis. Andy went Ole Miss, Michael went
probably bring some Claybrook bratwurst.
to Auburn and we love Memphis. Preferred: Pappy. Reality: Maker’s or W. L. Weller. As for beer, we drink Red Brick and Yazoo.
Chef John Bragg at Circa
We take house-made sausages from Hog & Hominy
I don’t tailgate, I probably would enjoy it though! I’d be for Alabama. Bourbon+coke. Is there another drink? Knob creek please. Coke in
Scott Ritchie at Jim’s Place Restaurant & Bar
a can. I love good potato salad, so to ensure that I got to eat some
University of Memphis. Bud Light. Juicy Lucy Hamburger...... ground
that’s what I’d bring.
beef which he adds red peppers and onions to and then to top everything off he stuffs cheddar cheese and pepper jack cheese
Chef Jason Severs at Bari
in the middle.
We don’t ever have the time to, but if we did, UT Knoxville.
Chef Derk Meitzler at Local Gastropub
or Guinness Black Lager. Focaccia, or homemade salsa and
Memphis Tigers, but if I could it would be the LSU Tigers.
guacamole and chips, maybe some ceviche.
I’ve never been a bourbon drinker. I would probably drink Peroni
Jack Daniels. Burgers to grill, 7 layer dip, salsa. Chef Dennis Cowan at Theo’s Bistro Chef Alex Grisanti at Elfo’s Restaurant
I don’t normally tailgate but if I did it would be University of Memphis
I’m usually working on game day so I haven’t tailgated in a while.
(alumni). Bourbon preferred is Woodford Reserve. The food I would
I would drink Makers Mark and Budweiser for sure. I would
bring would be smoked chicken wings from our menu. They are
make candied bourbon yams with pecans, brown sugar and
classic.
marshmallows.
Interim Restaurant and Bar
5040 Sanderlin, Suite 105, Memphis TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 www.interimrestaurant.com Photography by Ande Demetriou, Gemini Multimedia
Mollydooker, “Blue Eyed Boy,” Shiraz, McLaren Vale 2010 with “Brick” Chicken Breast Flavors of warm blackberries, blueberry pie filling, licorice and cloves with hints of five spice, mocha and cedar are present in this rich powerful and very full-bodied Shiraz. The endless depth of fruit is well balanced by a medium to firm level of rounded tannins and lively acid. Springer Mountain Farms nestled in the hills of the Blue Ridge Mountains is home to the star of this dish. Their low stress, humane growing practices include a vegetarian diet with natural vitamins, minerals and fresh mountain water. These methods along with Interim’s cooking techniques make our chicken unparalleled. Using a “brick” for weight to crisp the skin to a glorious brown while rendering in its own fat is how we keep the chicken juicy and flavorful. Add grapes, celery root, slightly bitter and spicy radicchio and a balsamic reduction. Simple and delicious.
Bulleit Bourbon cocktails with Stuffed Mountain Trout Pictured is a classic Old Fashion made with Bulleit Bourbon. We like using this particular “Frontier Whiskey” in classic and new cocktails because of its especially high rye content. The abundance of rye lends a bold spicy character with a distinctively smooth finish. It has a deep amber color with highly polished aromas of creamy vanilla, pickling spices, and buttery pralines. Its delicate, silky entry leads to a dry-yet-fruity mediumto-full body of honeyed grain, sweet baking spice, vanilla bean, and more pralines. The bourbon finishes with a long, rich fruity caramel, peppery spice and mineral accented fade. Another way to enjoy this bourbon is in our Golden Bulleit cocktail. 1 oz of honey syrup, .75 oz of fresh lemon juice and 2 oz of Bulleit over ice. The stuffed North Carolina rainbow trout with quinoa, house made sausage, arugula and apple-cranberry relish is another take on Chef Jackson Kramer’s love affair with this versatile fish. The flavors in this dish say fall/winter on so many delicious levels.
Favorite Holiday Tradition To my mind, Thanksgiving is the exemplar for all holidays. In my
My favorite holiday tradition is making Christmas cookies with
family, we have two great traditions. Every other year, all of
my children at Christmas time. My sister usually comes over and
the Talaricos--200 strong--from here to the diaspora converge
we play Christmas records and sing and roll out the dough
in Memphis and we eat an a-traditional Thanksgiving feast.
and let the boys use the cookie cutters and after they have
The family gets together the night before and makes raviolis;
baked, we all sit around the dining room table and decorate
everyone brings dishes--from Italian spinach to potatoes
the cookies. We always end up eating a few, to make sure they
au gratin. It’s this hilarious, disjointed meal where I try to eat
are Santa worthy. My sister and I did this when we were little girls
more than I did the year before. Many of these people, I only
and we have always continued the tradition. Now that I have
see every other year, and in two years so much happens.
my own children, it is even more special and I hope that they
Thanksgiving gathers us around the table where we console
will continue it with their children.
and celebrate, cajole and build up. Family time, because I
Rebecca Severs, Bari Restaurant
have a great mother, has always revolved around the table, and I’ve always felt very much that the family meal defines a family, and the Talarico Thanksgiving is an assorted mix of Italian
I enjoy Thanksgiving and taking my kids to the shelter to help
standards and traditional American fare. And regardless of
feed the less fortunate.
whether it’s the eat-a-thon with the whole clan or the smaller
Chef Eduardo Murillo, Houston’s Restaurant
(think 25) collection at my mom’s house on the off year, I make mom cook a turkey and stuffing. Her’s is the best, I don’t care who you know.
Christmas is my favorite time of the year and Holiday. As a
Nick Talarico, General Manager/Beverage Director, Andrew
mother of two wonderful boys, I loved watching their faces of
Michael Italian Kitchen
excitement each Christmas morning as we all woke to see how may cookies Santa ate and milk he drank. And to see what Saint Nick left under the tree for us all. It’s a classic and unforgettable
My absolute favorite holiday would most definitely have to be
family treasure for any parent and one I still love.
Easter. This is when I get to spend time with all my family and
April Reynolds, General Manager, Theo’s Bistro
most importantly I get to learn to cook from the best cook in the world, my mother. Ronnie Powell, General Manager, Jim’s Place
Christmas and Thanksgiving are great because I get to visit with my family and sister who fly’s in from Italy. I can’t deny any excuse for a party though...I love New Years Eve! Mike Rice, Claybrook Farms
Memphis area restaurants We want to give you an overview of the Memphis area restaurants available for you to patronize. Our local businesses make this publication possible so we encourage you to support each of them. Each of these restaurants are equipped with well-trained individuals there to guide you through their wine, spirits, and dining selections. Don’t be afraid to ask!
1 Amerigo 1239 Ridgeway Rd Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-4000 2 Bari Restaurant 22 S Cooper St Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 722-2244 3 Ciao Bella Pizza 565 Erin Dr Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 205-2500 4 Circa by John Bragg 6150 Poplar Ave Ste 122 Memphis, TN 38120 (901) 746-9130 5 Houston’s Restaurant 5000 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 683-0915 6 Interim Restaurant & Bar 5040 Sanderlin Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 7 Jim’s Place Restaurant 518 Perkins Rd Ex tMemphis, TN 37501 (901) 766-2030 8 Jims Place Grille 3660 S Houston Levee Rd Collierville, TN 38017 (901) 861-5000 9 Local Gastropub 95 S. Main St. Memphis, TN 38103 (014) 739-573x 10 Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-0055 11 Theo’s Bistro 6696 Poplar Ave Germantown, TN 38138 12 Acre Restaurant 690 S Perkins Rd Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 818-2273
13 Andrew Michaels Italian Kitchen 712 W Brookhaven Cir Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 347-3569 14 Bardog Tavern 73 Monroe Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 275-8752 15 Bleu Restaurant & Lounge 221 South Third Street Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 334-5950 16 Cafe 1912 243 S Cooper St Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 722-2700 17 Carrabba’s Italian Grill 5110 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 685-9900 18 Cortona 948 S Cooper St Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 729-0101 19 Eighty 3 83 Madison Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (904) 333-1224 20 Elegant Farmer 262 S Highland St Memphis, TN 38111 (901) 324-2221 21 Elfo’s 2285 S Germantown Rd Germantown, TN 38138 (901) 753-4017 22 Erling’s Restaurant 1044 S Yates Rd Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 763-3700 23 Felicia Suzanne’s Restaurant 80 Monroe Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 523-0877 24 Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 6245 Poplar Ave. Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-6200
25 Flight Restaurant & Wine Bar 39 S Main St Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 521-8005
37 Paulette’s 50 Harbor Town Sq Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 260-3333
26 Folks Folly Prime Steakhouse 551 S Mendenhall Rd Bartlett, TN 38135 (901) 762-8200
38 Chez Philippe Peabody Hotel Chez Philippe 149 Union Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 529-4188
27 Grisanti’s Restaurant 1022 S Shady Grove Rd Memphis, TN 38120 (901) 761-9462 28 Fuel Cafe 1761 Madison Ave Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 725-9025 29 Hog & Hominy 707 W Brookhaven Cir Memphis, TN 38117-4503 30 Interim Restaurant & Bar 5040 Sanderlin Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 818-0821 31 Itta Bena at B.B. King’s 145 Beale Street Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 578-3031 32 Lucchesi’s Ravioli & Pasta Co 540 S Mendenhall Rd Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 766-9922 33 Majestic Grille 145 N Main St Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 522-8555 34 Mesquite Chop 88 Union Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 527-5337 35 Napa Cafe 5101 Sanderlin Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 683-0441 36 Owen Brennan’s 6150 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 761-0990
39 Restaurant Iris 2146 Monroe Ave Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 590-2828 40 River Oaks Restaurant 5871 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38119 (901) 683-9305 41 Rizzo’s Diner 106 E GE Patterson Ave Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 523-2227 42 South of Beale 361 S Main St Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 526-0388 43 Spindini 383 S Main St Memphis, TN 38103 (901) 578-2767 44 Sweet Grass / Next Door 937 S Cooper St Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 278-0278 45 The Grove Grill 4550 Poplar Ave Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 818-9951 46 Three Angels Diner 2617 Broad Ave Memphis, TN 38112 (901) 452-1111 47 Tsunami 928 S Cooper St Memphis, TN 38104 (901) 274-2556
37
48
46
19 23 14 25 34
9 38
33 31 42 43
15
28
2 39
41 16
20 47 44 18
6
45 7 3 12
32 26
30
5 17
35
29 13
27 22
40
4 10 36
24 11
1
maps provided by MapQuest
21
8
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Price Range $
Corkage Fee
Cuisine Style
Amerigo
1239 Ridgeway Road, Memphis TN (901) 761-4000 www.Amerigo.net
Andrew Fischer
52
42
7.5-15 glass 28-99 bottle
$10
Italian
Nick Talarico
55
30
10.50 glass 50 bottle
$10
Fresh perspective on traditional Italian
Rebecca Severs
100
30
38 bottle
$15
Southeastern Italian primarily from Puglia
Glenn Hays
43
18
24-42 bottle
$10
Bistro with a mix of French, Italian, New Orleans/Caribbean
Ed Parramore
47
39
9 glass
none
Italian
Jennifer Strasburg
52
38
5-15 glass 26-100 bottle
$15
Italian, Mediterranean
Jay Turney
125
30
9-18 glass 40-65 bottle
$15
French Global
Alex Grisanti
57
27
7-15 glass, 28-150 bottle
$20
Northern Italian with a modern twist
John Condy
187
46
36-669 bottle
$10
French Continental
Aubri Luckey
200
100+
6.50-24 glass 26-325 bottle
$20
Prime Steakhouse & Seafood
Carlos Sejas
300+
50
10 glass
$18
USDA Prime Steaks, chops, and fresh seafood
Terry Allen
100+
50
28-200 bottle
$10
Southern American and European Cuisines
Nick Talarico
14
14
10 glass 40 bottle
$10
Southern Food with Italian Roots
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen 83 South 2nd Street, Memphis TN (901) 347-3569 www.AndrewMichaelItalianKitchen.com
Bari Ristorante
22 S Cooper, Memphis TN (901) 722-2244 www.BariMemphis.com
Cafe 1912
243 S. Cooper, Memphis, TN (901) 722-2700 www.Cafe1912.com
Carrabba’s Italian Grill
5110 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 685-9900 www.Carrabbas.com
Ciao Bella Italian Grill 565 Erin Drive, Memphis, TN 38117 (901) 205-2500 www.ciaobellamemphis.com/
Circa by John Bragg
6150 Poplar Avenue, Mempis, TN (901) 746-9130 www.CircaMemphis.com
Elfo’s Restaurant
2285 S Germantown Rd, Germantown, TN (901) 753-4017 www.ElfosRestaurant.com
Erling Jensen
1044 South Yates Road, Memphis, TN (901) 763-3700 www.EJensen.com
Fleming’s Steakhouse
6245 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-6200 www.FlemingsSteakhouse.com/ Memphis
Folks Folly Prime Steakhouse 551 South Mendenhall Road, Memphis TN (901) 762-8200 www.FolksFolly.com
The Grove Grill
4550 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 818-9951 www.TheGroveGrill.com
Hog & Hominy 707 W Brookhaven Circle, Memphis, TN
(901) 207-7396 www.hogandhominy.com
MEMPHIS RESTAURANT WINE RESOURCE GUIDE Restaurant
Wine Director/ Sommelier
Number of Number of Selections Selections by Glass by Bottle
Houston’s Restaurant
5000 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 683-0915 www.hillstone.com
N/A
46
Price Range $
Corkage Fee
Cuisine Style
none
American
21
8-15 glass 22-195 bottle
$15
New American with emphasis on fresh fish and local produce and products
Interim Restaurant and Bar 5040 Sanderlin, Memphis, TN (901) 818-0821 www.InterimRestaurant.com
Michael Luckey
93
40
7.5-16 glass 30-115 bottle
Ronnie Powell
65
48
6.50-14 glass 24-125 bottle
$12
American / Mediterranean / Steak & Seafood
James Taras
60
32
24-125 bottle
$15
American / Greek
Rusty Prudhon
125
24
28-165 bottle
$15
American
Beata Sulecka
92
17
24 and up bottle 9 glass
$15
American/Continental
Jeff Frisby
127
42
26-280 bottle
$17
French Creole with an emphasis on local
Collene DePete
87
26 including sparkling
28 and up bottle
$20
American French Bistro
Kevin Johnson
277
40
32-399 bottle 8-29 glass
$15
Classic American Steakhouse
N/A
20
20
7-10 glass
$15
New American
Scott Gentleman
41
26
7-12 glass 26-105 bottle
$8
Low country
April Reynolds and Caitlin Jaffee
20
20
6-10.5 glass, 22-38 bottle
$10
California-American
Jim’s Place Restaurant and Bar 518 Perkins Road Extended, Memphis TN (901) 766-2030 www.JimsPlaceMemphis.com
Jim’s Place Grille
3660 S. Houston Levee Road, Collierville, TN (901) 861-5000 www.JimsPlaceGrille.com
Napa Cafe
5101 Sanderlin Ave # 122, Memphis, TN (901) 683-0441 www.NapaCafe.com
Paulette’s
50 Harbor Town Square Memphis, TN (901) 260-3300 www.RiverInnMemphis.com
Restaurant Iris
2146 Monroe Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 590-2828 www.RestaurantIris.com
River Oaks Restaurant
5871 Poplar Avenue Memphis, TN (901) 683-9305 www.RiverOaksRestaurant.com
Ruth’s Chris Steak House 6120 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 761-0055 www.RuthsChris.com
South of Beale
361 South Main, Memphis TN (901) 526-0388 www.SouthofBeale.com
Sweet Grass & Next Door
937 South Cooper Street, Memphis TN (901) 278-0278 www.SweetGrassMemphis.com
Theo’s Bistro
6696 Poplar Avenue, Memphis, TN (901) 737-5664 www.theosmemphis.com
TASTING NOTES “Fill up, Fill up, for wisdom calls when e’er we let the wine rest. Here’s death to prohibitions fools, and every kind of vine pest” -Jamrach Holobom Various styles and offerings tasted blind by our panel of trained and amateur tasters both, all printed wines meet a rigorous quality price ratio requirement to ensure any selection is going to be tasty.
TASTING NOTES
WINES TO WATCH Chris Thorn
Allison Jacob
Gary Farrell, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2008
Solletici, Prosceco 2010
Primal Roots, Blend, California 2010
Segura Viudas, Brut reserve, Cava NV
Bodegas Volver, “Tarima”, Monastrell, Alicante 2010
Ruffino, Prosecco NV
Queen of Hearts, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2010
Fairview, Sauvignon Blanc, Paarl 2010
Conti Formentini, Pinot Grigio, Collio 2011
River Aerie, Merlot, Columbia valley 2008
Paraduxx, “Z Blend”, Blend, Napa Valley 2009
Columbia Crest “Les Chevaux”, Blend, Horse Heaven Hills 2010
Chateau Thivin, Cote de Brouilly 2010
Renegade Wine Co., Tempranillo, Walla Walla valley 2010
Cosentino, “The Zin”, Zinfandel, California 2008
River Aerie, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2007
Souverain, Merlot, Northcoast 2010
Croft, “Pink”, Blend, Porto
Schloss Vollrads, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau 2010
High Flyer, “Centerline”, Blend, California 2008
Uppercut, Sauvignon Blanc, Northcoast 2010
14 Hands, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2010 Margerum, “M5”, Blend, Santa Barbara County 2009
Michael Hughes Carmen, “Apalta Vineyard” ,Camenere, Chile 2009
Rebecca Severs
B.R. Cohn Silver Label, Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast 2009
La Cueille, Bugey-Cerdon NV
Bodegas Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2007
Louis Latour, “Grand Ardeche”, Chardonnay, Coteaux De L’Ardeche 2010
Estancia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2009
Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence 2009
Au Bon Climat, “Isabelle”, Pinot Noir, Santa Maria 2008
Vinas Del Cenit, “aleo”, Tempranillo, Castilla Y Leon 2009
Domaine de Fontsainte, Gris de Gris, Corbieres 2011
Vina Cobos, “Felino”, Malbec, Mendoza 2011
Girard, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009
Monte Cascas, “Colheita”, Blend, Douro 2009
J Vineyards, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009
Joel Gott, “Alakai” , Blend, California 2010
Michel Turgy, Blanc de Blanc, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger NV
Franciscan Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 Blackstone, “Winemaker’s Select”, Malbec, Mendoza 2011
Arthur Kahn Chateau St. Michelle, “Indian Well” ,Blend, Columbia Valley 2010
Cory Simonton
Chateau St. Jean, “Signature Red”, Blend, California 2010
Alta Vista Premium, Torrontes, Argentina 2011
Domaine de Terrebrune, Bandol 2007
J. Lassalle, Brut, Chingy-Les-Roses NV
Ensemble, Blend, California 2010
Kermit Lynch, “Cypress Cuvee”, Cotes Du Rhone 2010
Dierberg, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2009
Babcock, “Rita’s Earth”, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2009
Grand Veneur, Cotes Du Rhone 2009
Stepping Stone by Cornerstone, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2010
Domaine De Chateaumar, “Cuvee Bastien”, Grenache, Cotes Du Rhone 2010
Dona Paula, “Los cardos” , Malbec, Mendoza 2011
Champalou, Brut, Vouvray NV
Susana Balbo, Malbec, Mendoza 2010
Dutton Ranch, “The Calling”, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010
Treasure Hunter, “Mendosaurus”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County 2008
Feudo Maccari, Grillo, Sicilia 2011
Concha Y Toro, “Serie Riberas Gran Reserva”, Carmenere, Peumo 2010
Spottswoode, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa/Sonoma 2010
Krutz Family, “Stagecoach Vineyard”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008
Blackstone, “Winemaker’s Select”, Pinot Grigio, California 2011
Ravenswood, “Teledeschi”, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2008
FIND THE WINE PRICE RANGE = $15 or less = $16 to $20
= $21 to $30 = $31 or more
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Blackstone, “Winemaker’s Select”, Pinot Grigio, California 2011 First whiff = Pinot Grigio, US style (lacks lemon), with nice apricot and mineral nose; bouquet isn’t mouthwatering, expected lower acidity. Soft texture, dry, a fair attempt but no mistaking for the prototype. A pretty good, popular drinking example. Spottswoode, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa/Sonoma 2010 Definite yellow hue; nose not unlike a diesel-y dry Riesling but with something foreign: Celery! That says Semillon, to me. Fluffy-flabby and indeterminate on the palate. Feudo Maccari, Grillo, Sicilia 2011 As much yellow as the legal pad I’m using for notes! Immediate honeysuckle on the nose, leading to tangerine peel, all a good surprise. Lacks the structure of Chardonnay so I’m guessing Owner, Arthur’s Wine and Liquors Viognier or other Rhone varietal (Marsanne?), something from southern Europe at any rate. Again, below the acidity standard but tasty and finishing dry despite all the intrinsic fruitiness. Full of flavor but too, too soft.
Arthur Kahn
Dutton Ranch, “The Calling”, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010 Definite Chardonnay nose with a touch of tropical, banana and a little less pineapple; plush texture, full and with some persistence at the finish bespeaking pedigree. Some vanillin oak evident, and a leesy-bready flavor that usually means the wine has seen a malolactic fermentation. High quality, a dinner wine, best of all the whites tasted. Champalou, Brut, Vouvray NV Green apples and a bit of coppery minerality; on the palate very much Granny Smith, almost a sparkling cider. No flaws, but not for me, please. Domaine De Chateaumar, “Cuvee Bastien”, Grenache, Cotes Du Rhone 2010 Nice dark red color, limpid; earthy-Rhone-y on the palate, thick and dark like a Southern French red or a Spanish Mourvedre, soft tannins, roasted a bit, a full-fruited, robust and quite good bottle. Grand Veneur, Cotes Du Rhone 2009 Lighter in all respects (than the previous), perhaps a bit of bottle age, some light tannins, red fruits, ultimately a more food worthy wine than the last, more my style although the previous will be more popular. Dierberg, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2009 Attractive color because not too dense, with an excellent nose that reminds me of the old Calera or Bon Climat Pinot Noirs; on the palate, undoubtedly a kick-ass Pinot Noir from south of SFO, not the Arthur style of wine but impressive, sturdy, and well-endowed, a “statement” wine. Ensemble, Blend, California 2010 Plummy color, clear; good nose with ripe, mouthwatering red cherry/currant fruit, smells European but “modern.” A poptype wine, nothing sticks out, simple, trace of residual sugar, corporate, acceptable quality. Domaine de Terrebrune, Bandol 2007 Garnet hue leading to mahogany, looks like Bordeaux with a bit of bottle age; certainly smells French -- like a Right Bank wine, toasty, some char, cedar and lead pencil (I’m thinking St Emilion/merlot); the fruit is blackberry; quite dry with mild tannins, some length, a bit rustic in a good way, will go well with lamb. My favorite of the reds, easily. Chateau St. Jean, “Signature Red”, Blend, California 2010 Youthful color; some veg in the nose (sometimes means US Merlot), less so on palate; big-fruited Bordeaux-style wine, a bit rough-hewn, trace of bitter at the end, my least favorite red. Chateau St. Michelle, “Indian Well” ,Blend, Columbia Valley 2010 Nice color, not over-pigmented; attractive nose showing redder fruits (could even be Tempranillo); polished texture with a sweet core. Hard to peg the varietal, the wine’s not really focused. Spanish red? Decent quality but lacks a definite personality.
Sonetico, Prosceco 2010 Very peachy! Soft approach, easy drinking. Would be delicious with a spicy entrée or a nice charcuterie platter. Segura Viudas, Brut reserve, Cava NV Honey aroma; slightly floral. Really fruity burst with big berry flavor. Would go nicely with pork! Ruffino, Prosecco NV Very fruity on nose: apples and pears. Clean taste with a hint of peach and plenty of intense apple. Would taste great with a good pizza!
Allison Jacob
Publisher – Cork iT Magazine
Fairview, Sauvignon Blanc, Paarl 2010 Crisp mineralistic nose with plenty of apple. Very delicate but strong palate. Citrus finish was very clean. Would pair nicely with a wood grilled trout!
River Aerie, Merlot, Columbia valley 2008 Leathery nose, spice, touch of currant. Much sweeter in the mouth than I expected with a really nice pepper balance. Cedar on the mid-end palate. Tasty! Columbia Crest “Les Chevaux”, Blend, Horse Heaven Hills 2010 Earthy smell. Luscious aroma of berry. Very licorice-like flavor with undertone of cherry. Chocolaty finish. Renegade Wine Co., Tempranillo, Walla Walla valley 2010 Cherries galore in nose, some chocolate. Very ripe, nice acid balance. Excellent time to drink it. Finishes with blackberry and a nice mix of dark chocolate with a hint of vanilla. River Aerie, Syrah, Columbia Valley 2007 Smells of anise, lavender, very earthy. Nutty, medium bodied flavors have essence of earth, walnut, and chocolate. Back end is a touch sweet with a little charcoal. Croft, “Pink”, Blend, Porto Smells exactly like raspberries. Soft palate tasting of dried fruits. Has weight to it, most definitely, to remind you of what you’re drinking! Spunky wine! High Flyer, “Centerline”, Blend, California 2008 Aromas of pepper, clove, multiple berries….Yum. Very balanced: fruity/spicy….Tons of plum and raspberry. Soft finish with just enough oak. I drank this with meatloaf – it was outstanding. 14 Hands, Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2010 Toasty aroma with plenty of fruit. Very classic cabernet nose; fruit in mouth, spicy balance. Quite drinkable and soft in mouthfeel with a luxurious fruit finish. Margerum, “M5”, Blend, Santa Barbara County 2009 Leathery, smoky, dry nose. Slightly jammy with a hint of cocoa and chalk. Fruity mid-palate but finishes dry. Tasty!
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Michel Turgy, Blanc de Blanc, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger NV Aromas of yeasty brioche, buttered toast, nutmeg, and chalk. In the mouth elegance dances around bright tart acids with a tangy texture. The bubbles are small and tight, gliding across the palate. J Vineyards, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009 Baked apples, pastry, some chalk surround cinnamon, allspice and lemon curd, in the mouth it’s creamy but bright with zippy acidity, on the finish there is a lush roundness, but
Michael Hughes
not to the point of being flabby, however the fresh flavor and supple body are interrupted by the alcohol at times.
General Manager, Joe’s Wines & Liquors Girard, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009 Baked pear, cinnamon, clove and ripe mango serve as aromatics while a lush round mouthfeel is vibrantly creamy and has a soft supple finish. Domaine de Fontsainte, Gris de Gris, Corbieres 2011 Dried raspberry, rainier cherries, chalk and wet rock, as if I am standing in a field of wild flowers by the sea. Palate is bright and clean; light with a lithe and refreshing finish. Au Bon Climat, “Isabelle”, Pinot Noir, Santa Maria 2008 Cola, maraschino cherry stand out among pomegranate, tarragon and licorice root, there is a hint of alcohol. In the mouth there is a dark core of fruit with elegant grip, mandarin orange and tart cherry; bright acidity that expands across the palate. Rich, ripe and tangy with a lingering finish. Estancia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2009 Eucalyptus, lavender, green peppercorn, and wet leaves in the nose. Palate offers soft tannins and simple flavor, very straightforward and unobtrusive, small finish. Bodegas Muga, Reserva, Rioja 2007 Distinctively reminiscent of a pit roasted lamb aromatically, also has black raspberry, wet soil, leather and dust. On the tongue there is a clean razor sharp texture with bright acid and a chalky finish, I am reminded of 60% cocoa. B.R. Cohn Silver Label, Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast 2009 Slightly muted upon opening, faint aromas of cassis and black raspberry, with a hint of licorice. A fine chalky tannin and sweet plum make the palate known, while cocoa powder and a rounded medium body finishes moderately. Carmen, “Apalta Vineyard” ,Camenere, Chile 2009 Bell pepper, green peppercorns, leather and star anise for the nose, lush and round but lacking, mid-finish fades away, simple and pleasant.
Conti Formentini, Pinot Grigio, Collio 2011 Beautiful color and intoxicating nose, apple is dominate over a bit of mixed citrus and melon, in the mouth the wine expands and is wonderfully balanced. The apples are more apparent as red delicious and there is a strong citrus component framing sweet honey and honeydew at the finish. Uppercut, Sauvignon Blanc, Northcoast 2010 Pale colored with aromas of lemon, lime and some grassy hints. Almost like a flat sprite, in the mouth there is acid, but weight as well. Soft fruit like peaches and kiwi flow into a slightly orange finish, quite drinkable.
Schloss Vollrads, Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau 2010 Golden and obviously viscous, canned pineapple, lemon peel, apricot and stony aromas initially, the mouth filling simplicity of this wine with a touch of green apple and an inherent sweetness keep me coming back. Balanced finish with a lemon oil acidity and a perplexing lack of alcohol keep it in check.
Chris Thorn
Contributing Editor, Cork iT Magazine
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Gary Farrell, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley 2008 Black pepper and roasted shitake, a dark raspberry underlying a not too hot spicy note. Palate is a bit more floral with a full array of spiciness and leather in addition to sweet plum and raspberry, the wine is soft and elegant, the finish is very pleasant for the brevity.
Primal Roots, Blend, California 2010 Dark berries with a tea hint, thyme and some earth in the nose; the wine lacks any tannic structure but is very round and has a good flow, no heat and finish adds pepper and cherry cola.
Bodegas Volver, “Tarima”, Monastrell, Alicante 2010 Chai tea, violet, and cured sausage and chocolate quietly escape the glass into the nose, in the mouth the wine has structure and the tea more resembles classic black, the chocolate is more bittersweet and the finish has a nice soft green note. There are more than enough layers to keep attention. Queen of Hearts, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara County 2010 Very dark in color; strawberry, toasted rosemary and some black cherry. Smooth and harmonious adding some steminess on the palate with more black cherry and spice box notes.
Paraduxx, “Z Blend”, Blend, Napa Valley 2009 Tight nose with plum and cherry, a bit of spice; much more opulent body with deep smooth core of cherry, chocolate and some integrated oak, the finish is round with soft pepper and tannin is minimal.
Chateau Thivin, Cote de Brouilly 2010 This wine has a perfumed aroma but offset by powerful fruit and a bit of charred hickory, sweet but with a bit of edge. The palate is a balanced dance of red fruit, some stone, a purifying acid and solid tannin on the finish, but no brash feeling.
Cosentino, “The Zin”, Zinfandel, California 2008 A serious explosion of black fruit: currant, berry and some black cherry. A bit of heat and peppercorn supplement a little dirt and coriander. In the mouth the wine is immensely tight and tannic but has grip and a BIG finish of spicy earthen blueberry.
Souverain, Merlot, Northcoast 2010 Almost black in color, smells of plum tea and warm clove with a bit of violet and smoke. Juicy would best describe the mouth feel as it is not too big, but has some weight; the plum is surrounded by blueberry jam and raw tobacco with the tannins showing up at the very end of the finish.
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
La Cueille, Bugey-Cerdon NV It’s a pretty pink color. It’s not very aromatic but it’s got a really lively mouth feel. This wine is sweet but not too syrupy sweet. It hints of red berry and has a slight dryness on the mid palette and then finishes clean. It’s lovely! Louis
Latour,
“Grand
Ardeche”,
Chardonnay,
Coteaux De L’Ardeche 2010 I like the creaminess of this wine. It’s a very pleasing medium bodied white. It is not too light nor too dry or acidic. It’s a nice bottle of white. Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence 2009 This wine has a beautiful nose of tobacco and cherry, but is also very floral. It is full bodied, spicy, and dry. It is a firm structured complex red. I think it’s a
Rebecca Severs
General Manager, Bari Ristorante
really great bottle of wine! Vinas Del Cenit, “aleo”, Tempranillo, Castilla Y Leon 2009
This wine has nice aromas of violets, cocoa, & vanilla beans. This wine is sweet at first but then slightly tannic and dry. Nice velvety texture, medium bodied, with a long dry finish. Vina Cobos, “Felino”, Malbec, Mendoza 2011 There is not much on the nose with this wine, but the taste is jammy, dark, and a little dry on the end. It’s a nice everyday wine. It reminds me of a good Primitivo or a Barbera. Monte Cascas, “Colheita”, Blend, Douro 2009 Wow. When I smelled this wine, I knew it was something new to me. I had no idea what I was smelling! It was perfumey and strange, with hints of alcohol and butterscotch. It is light bodied but very vibrant and tart. It even seemed a little salty to me. This wine is very unique! It would be a neat conversational wine for a group, just to see everyone’s reactions. Joel Gott, “Alakai” , Blend, California 2010 This wine has a very floral nose of roses and violets and hints of dark red fruit. It starts off light and smooth, with an almost oily mouth feel, and then has a long dry finish. Franciscan Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 This red wine has an earthy nose with a little leather as well. It is big bodied and instantly dry and chewy. This wine is screaming for some red meat to go with it. It’s a very masculine wine. Blackstone, “Winemaker’s Select”, Malbec, Mendoza 2011 This is a very easy going wine. It’s easy to drink, medium bodied, a little dry. It’s very user friendly.
J. Lassalle, Brut, Chingy-Les-Roses NV
Big, toasty, floral and crisp. Ultra clean big bubbles with pears, apples and more apples. Alta Vista Premium, Torrontes, Argentina 2011 Clean, light and refreshing. A creamy mouth-feel with exotic fruit and mild acidity but fun all the way down.
Cory Simonton
Manager, Buster’s Liquor & Wine
Kermit Lynch, “Cypress Cuvee”, Cotes Du Rhone 2010 Rich, lavishly deep color with earthy undertones displaying hints of spice and leather.
Babcock, “Rita’s Earth”, Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills 2009 Light ruby-like color topped with ripe cherries and a silky long finish. Very approachable. Stepping Stone by Cornerstone, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2010 Robust and plush with a complexity that’s most likely not cheap. Very round and very intense, wow. Dona Paula, “Los cardos” , Malbec, Mendoza 2011 Dark, inky color with tons of ripe berry fruit. A velvety smooth mouth feel that goes straight to the finish. Susana Balbo, Malbec, Mendoza 2010 Mega-rich aromas and flavors of sweet raspberry cigar with full-bodied spice with black currant jam. Treasure Hunter, “Mendosaurus”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County 2008 Whoa! Wicked fruit explosion. I’m at loss for words. How about juicy, juicy, juicy with zero tannins. Concha Y Toro, “Serie Riberas Gran Reserva”, Carmenere, Peumo 2010 Spicy green chili sprinkles with herbs and minerals. Nice hints of mocha and ripe tannins. Yep. Krutz Family, “Stagecoach Vineyard”, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2008 A honker of a nose, tons of toast, leather and tobacco. Who opened the spice box? Age worthy for sure. Ravenswood, “Teledeschi”, Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley 2008
TASTING NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Intense fruit with black pepper. Vibrant and very approachable. Don’t wait and drink late. Consume tonight.
TASTING NOTES
NOTES
Brad Pitts
Bari Ristorante
1792 RIDGEMONT RESERVE KENTUCKY BOURBON
Light oaky aromas with the slightest hint of fresh berries. Very clean finish without too much sweetness, reminiscent of eating homemade strawberry jam.
Very smooth with a touch of smokiness and light oaky flavors, Clean finish with endnotes of cinnamon and hints of straw and honey. Very smooth for a mostly rye whisky.
Nikki’s Ray of Sunshine
The Guillotine
3 oz of Midnight Moon Strawberry Moonshine 1 oz Cointreau ½ Fresh Squeezed Lemon 1 oz of strawberry rhubarb syrup Posecco splash
3 oz 1792 Bourbon 1 oz of simple syrup or teaspoon of confectioner’s sugar Dash of Carpano Antica Formula Sweet Vermouth 4 leaves Fresh mint Blood Orange Juice (substitute fresh blood orange juice with Pellegrino Blood Orange Fresca or Bottled organic blood orange juice)
SpiritsTASTING
MIDNIGHT MOON STRAWBERRY MOONSHINE
Shake all ingredients in martini shaker and pour into highball. Add strawberry rhubarb syrup for color. Garnish with lemon twist.
PIMM’S NO. 1 Herbal scents with medicinal aftertaste, Slight hints of citrus peel; of orange and lemons with a spiciness and earthen bitterness that belies its sweetness.
Puglian Pimm’s Punch
3 oz Pimm’s No. 1 1 oz Aperol Aperitivo ½ Fresh Squeezed Orange ½ oz of honey syrup Prosecco Splash Garnish with Orange peel
Muddle mint and top with syrup or sugar, add bourbon and ice. Top with Blood Orange juice. Garnish with citrus peel (orange twist) or fresh mint.
901 TEQUILA Almost unbelievably clear due to triple distillation. Extremely supple and clean on the tongue with hints of lemon, pine and tropical notes all rolled into one. Surprisingly clean finish with delicate floral aromas.
“Biel” Street Blues 3 oz 901 Tequila 1 oz Blue Curacao ½ Fresh Squeezed Orange Prosecco Splash Garnish with orange twist This can be made as a cocktail over ice in a proper glass or shaken and strained into a martini glass. Prosecco splash is optional. Any lemon-lime soda can be substituted.
Templeton Rye
Hangar One Wild Maine Blueberry
This bourbon has a fresh nut and vanilla nose with a spicy, rye flavor that’s incredibly smooth for bourbon.
A savory-sweet nose of blueberry precedes the delicate, baked blueberry flavor of the vodka, which feels natural and light, not syrupy. The flavor can certainly be tasted for cocktails.
A Flower for Al
I don’t like to do to much to Templeton, mostly just let it speak for itself, so we try to draw out the vanilla and mute some of the rye spice to balance everything. Add 1.25 oz of Templeton rye, three dashes Regan Orange (or house-made) bitters and .25 oz of St. Germain to ice. Shake until ingredients are well chilled and strain into a coupe glass.
Zachariah Harris Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Light brown with slight oaky nose. A little light in flavor at first, develops a little bitterness with a soft oaky sweetness on the finish, which is slightly harsh. This bourbon calls for mixing.
Zach’s Cherry-ish Limeaide 1 oz Zachariah Harris .25 oz Campari .25 oz Drambuie Yellow Chartreuse to wash glass lime wedge tonic Wash a Collins glass with Yellow Chartreuse. Add Ice to glass and build by adding bourbon, Campari, Drambuie. Fill the glass with tonic and stir. We use a house-made tonic that is very citrus forward, so either use a citrus heavy tonic or add lime juice to balance. Garnish with a lime wedge.
Blueberry Short Stack .75 oz Hangar One Maine Wild Blueberry .25 oz Maple syrup .5 oz Dolan Rogue Vermouth
SpiritsTASTING
Nick Talarico
Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen / Hog & Hominy
Add .75 oz Hangar One Maine Wild Blueberry, .25 oz Maple syrup, and .5 oz Dolan Rogue Vermouth to a shaker and shake until ice cold. Strain ingredients into a chilled cocktail glass.
Tanteo Jalapeño Vodka
This tequila will fill a room with the aroma of jalapeño. It begins sweet then moves to the jalapeño spice, and tequila finish.
Bloody Jalapenos 1.5 oz Tanteo Jalapeno Tequila 1 oz Worcestershire sauce 2 oz diced tomato 1/2 oz lime juice Two shakes celery salt salt and pepper to taste
NOTES
TASTING NOTES
Add all ingredients to a shaker and shake until cold. Double strain over ice in a rocks glass.
- Cork it! Resources -
ALSAC St. Jude
Buster’s Wine & Liquors
4
Be a part of the second annual St. Jude Garden Harvest on Thursday, October 25, 2012 at 6 p.m. at The Memphis Hunt and Polo Club. Guests will enjoy a Southern silent auction during cocktail hour with appetizers by celebrated Southern chefs with Bourbon Tasting by Four Roses Bourbon!
901.373.5051
901-458-0929
StJude.org/Harvest
Amerigo Italian Restaurant
1
Buster’s is Tennessee’s premier wine shop boasting the state’s largest volume and selection of wine and spirits with over 10,000 items in stock. Buster’s has been voted the #1 Best Wine Store in Memphis through The Commercial Appeal and The Memphis Flyer’s Readers Poll. At Buster’s, “We Have Your Spirit.”
31
www.bustersliquors.com
Ciao Bella Italian Grill
83
With a casual atmosphere, Amerigo is cozy and upbeat with personalized, polished service and fresh, high quality food and wine. Our wood-fired grill and wood-fired oven cooking set our passion for preparing the finest traditional Italian ingredients with an American and Mediterranean twist.
Located in the heart of East Memphis, Ciao Bella Italian Grill serves authentic Italian cuisine. We serve lunch and dinner daily in the dining room and on the patio, offer happy hour specials Sunday through Thursday, cater for private functions and deliver through a local service, Meals in Motion. Ciao Bella’s spacious Banquet Room and Lounge can comfortably accommodate parties of up to 60 people and includes private entrance and separate bar and restrooms from the dining room, for the perfect intimate experience as well as state-of-the-art audio & video equipment and free wi-fi. 565 Erin Drive. 901-205-2500.
901.761.4000
901.205.2500
www.amerigo.net
Bari Ristorante e Enoteca
68
CiaoBellaMemphis.com
Circa by John Bragg
85
Bari is the only regional Italian restaurant in Memphis, focusing on the cuisine of Puglia. We have an extensive all Italian wine list and cheese menu, both from all over Italy, while the food focuses on dishes from Puglia.
Remember the first time you tasted an extraordinary dish, or a unique, exciting new wine? This is Chef John Bragg’s conception of Circa, his restaurant in East Memphis: special culinary moments echoing the excitement and newness of early 20th century dining, transplanted with the Millennial sophistication and global outlook we apply to food and wine today.
901.722.2244
901.746.9130
BariMemphis.com
Buffalo Trace Distillery Inside Back Cover Ancient buffalo carved paths through the wilderness that led America’s first pioneers and explorers westward. One such trail led to the banks of the Kentucky River where we’ve been making bourbon whiskey the same way for over 200 years. Enjoy this handcrafted whiskey from the world’s most decorated distillery.
502.696.5926
BuffaloTrace.com
www.circamemphis.com
Four Roses Bourbon
®
Back Cover
Four Roses Distillery was recently named “Whisky Distiller of the Year – America - 2013”, presented by Whisky Magazine’s international judging panel. Four Roses uses 10 unique recipes to create their Single Barrel, Small Batch and Yellow Label bourbons. Once the nation’s leading Bourbon in the 1930’s, 40’s and 50’s, Four Roses was pulled from U.S. distribution by then owner Seagram to market the brand solely overseas. Eight years ago, with distribution limited to Kentucky, Four Roses returned to the domestic market after four decades of absence, and is now available in 48 states.
502.839.436
FourRosesBourbon.com
Suite 105 Memphis, Tennessee 38117 Gemini Multimedia
29
No matter what your event, Gemini multimedia will provide unequaled photo and video coverage. Sessions are available 24 x 7! Gemini Multimedia’s owner, Ande Demetriou, is the exclusive photographer for Cork it! magazine’s second edition.
Great Wines and Spirits
31, 57
Great Wines & Spirits is a store in which I want to shop,’ says owner Gary Burhop. Our name says it all - personal service, knowledge we share freely and a tremendous selection of wine and spirits in all price ranges with a high quality to price ratio representing excellent value.
www.greatwinesmemphis.com
Interim Restaurant and Bar
93
Opened on January 23, 2007 at 5040 Sanderlin Avenue, Interim Restaurant & Bar allows the guest to experience an open kitchen fused with the dining room to enhance the experience. Chef Jackson Kramer’s stylistic food presentation, blended with the freshest local ingredients, will allow your pallet to be piqued as the savory aromas RESTAUR A N T & B A R from the Chef’s preparations spill out into the dining room. Interim’s climate controlled wine room is prominently 5040 Sanderlin Avenue 5040 Sanderlin Avenue | 901.818.0821 | interimrestaurant.com Suite 105 displayed, occupying the entire south wall of the restaurant. Memphis, Tennessee 38117 Visit us soon for lunch, dinner, or have a cocktail in Interim’s spectacular bar.
Interim
901.818.0821
InterimRestaurant.com
Jim’s Place Restaurant & Bar
Jim’s Place -since 1921-
restaurant & bar
Welcome to the ever evolving world of the American Gastropub, here at Local Main Street we believe that a pub can and should be way more than beer and bar food. We believe that by mixing high-quality ingredients and handcrafted cocktails, we can provide a dining experience unique in every way imaginable. At Local Overton Square we’re bringing you the Downtown vibe with the Midtown attitude serving up our handcrafted cocktails paired up with our, “Not your everyday pub-grub” to give you a dining experience never before seen on the square.
901.574.0122
901-213-7890
901-682-1333
Local Gastropub 83, Inside Back Cover
33
Jim’s Place is a family-owned and operated restaurant, serving Memphis since 1921. Famous for our steaks, Jim’s also offers the freshest seafood, Greek specialties and a superb wine list. Enjoy happy-hour at our award winning bar or reserve a private dining room for your next group dinner. And have you heard…our new love is catering!
LocalGastropub.com
Lucchesi’s Ravoli & Pasta Company, Inc
89
Lucchesi’s Ravioli and Pasta Company is a unique shopping experience, with family traditions brought from Florence, Italy to Memphis at the turn of the century over 100 years ago. Our pasta is fresh and made daily. Homemade restaurant quality Italian meals are ready when you are - drop by and pick up fresh pasta, ravioli, lasagna, sauce, and Italian spinach. Italy at your door! Call to pick up or order online.
901-766-9922
Lucchesis.com
Pinot’s Palette
33
Join us for an unforgettable evening of fun, friends, and fine art where you bring the Cocktails and we provide the Canvases! All you need to do is bring your friends, open your favorite bottle of wine and get ready to be inspired by our local artists who will guide you step-by-step through a featured painting. At the end of the night...leave with your own masterpiece
901.761.0012
PinotsPalette.com/Sanderlin
Ruth’s Chris Steak House Inside Back Cover Ruth’s Chris Steak House in Memphis believes their guests deserve the very best. Each steak is hand-selected and broiled to perfection at 1800 degrees to lock in that delicious flavor. Complement your meal with a selection from our award-winning wine list, featuring over 260 world-class international and domestic labels.
901.766.2030
JimsPlaceMemphis.com
Lindsey Lissau Photography
95
We are a husband and wife team who specialize in wedding and lifestyle photography.
901.857.2536
www.lindseylissau.com
901.761.0055
RuthsChris.com
SACHË clothing | design | salon
83
A premiere fusion hot spot and a local product of homegrown talent: SACHË has been named one of the upcoming brands to watch out for. Located in the cities South Main Historic District, SACHË offers retail shopping, an in-house design studio, full service hair salon and alteration services... all under one roof and in upscale setting with all the modern trappings!
901.922.4955
SacheDesign.com
Notes The Memphis Wine + Food Series
35
The Memphis Wine + Food Series is the largest source of funding for the Memphis Brooks Museum of Art’s worldclass art education initiatives for students. Funds from the series drive the Brooks’ many innovative education programs for school children, including free school tours, a home-school program, school outreach programs, MidSouth Scholastic Art Awards, Family Days and Creation Station, and the Art Therapy Access program.
901.544.6209
MemphisWineAndFoodSeries.org
The Stellar Cellar Wine & Spirits 57 The Stellar Cellar is Memphis’ fastest growing wine store. With over 2,500 labels in stock, we have the wine for every occasion. Our staff wants to make your wine experience as simple and pleasurable as possible. Enjoy your holiday season and please come visit us soon. After all, wine’s fun here!
901-371-8232
Theo’s Bistro
32
From football to live music good times are happening at Theo’s Bistro. Exceptional wines and food at casual prices is our claim to fame. Located at the corner of poplar and kirby we have a casual atmosphere good for a first date or just to meet friends for drinks. Seafood and pasta made only from the freshest ingeridients and a great lunch menu makes us the place to drink, dine, and enjoy good live music. Theo’s also serves Claybrook Farms burgers and use All American Sweets world-class cakes and desserts. Hudson and Saleeby performs live every weekend. Excellent wines by the glass and bottle.
901.737.5664
TheosMemphis.com
W. J. Deutsch & Sons Ltd.
33
Founded in 1981 by Chairman Bill Deutsch, W.J.Deutsch & Sons was created to market quality wines from prestigious families from major wine regions throughout the world. Our diverse portfolio includes internationally renowned, award-winning brands that are recognized among the leading wines in their categories.
WJDeutsch.com
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