Andalusia | A Roadtrip Through Spain by thesocietyinc.com.au

the stylists guide to the globe

Spain Granada, Ronda, Jerez & Seville

BY SIBELLA COURT - 2023 A N D A L U S I A | A R O A D T R I P T H R O U G H S PA I N - 2023 -

C O N T E N T S

GRANADA & THE ALHAMBRA

ROAD TRIP FROM GRANADA TO SEVILLE

RHONDA

JEREZ

SEVILLE

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SPAIN TRAVELOGUE By SIbella Court

Consider this travelogue a handwritten list, scribbled on a paper napkin over dinner by a dear friend you admire for their sleuthing travel savvy, which has then been faithfully followed, tried & tested and passed on through many hands to enjoy! I have been a long time globetrotter and fortunate to have woven it into my job description. I have worked with many of the editorial greats from Condé Nast Traveler, Departures and Travel + Leisure, and I have written 6 best-selling books on my travels & endless travel guides for magazines. I use my love of history, unusual shops, museums, markets, antiques, architecture, food & art as my guide with a big dose of curiosity. I seek out the unusual, the fragrant, the tactile and like to transport myself & you through sound, scent and sight. This guide includes my favourite places visited time & again and perfect to give some inspiration and direction for a short visit to this beautiful city where flânerie is a must. Look up, wander, get lost and explore.

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The Alhambra means the red, referring to the

When we visit, linden trees are in full bloom,

red ochre used for painting and the bricks of this

perfuming the whole complex with their heady

gobsmacking 13th century citadel of the Moorish

scent. Some 18th century trees remain, such as the

kings. Before you even arrive, get yourself a copy of

magnolia grandiflora and sequoia surrounding the

Tales of the Alhambra by Washington Irving, and

Summer Palace, while other plantings are modern

if you’re a plant nerd like me, also pick up Plants

but using the same species that have grown on the

of the Alhambra by Rafael de la Cruz Márquez and

site for centuries more. In my travels I’ve visited so

José Manuel García Montes, which includes almost

many palaces and temples where the gardens are

a hundred stunning botanical illustrations, plus

gone and you have to use your imagination. Here,

maps of where to find each plant in the gardens.

the sights and smells of the trees and plants create

The sheer scale of the citadel and its working

a sensory experience that is almost overwhelming.

gardens are mind-blowing.

They provide a great deal of produce, all of which goes home with the gardeners who work on them, so no wonder they’re so lovingly tended!

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explore The walk from the town up to the Alhambra is

Much of the restoration occurred during the 19th

unbelievably beautiful–definitely worth the uphill

century, and it’s fascinating to see the approach

hike. The rills–narrow channels carved by the

that was taken. Where a wall has crumbled,

Moors into the hillside to convey water–you’ll see all along the way irrigate the whole area and create a babbling organic soundscape throughout the complex. The constant

burbling music of

it hasn’t always been replaced perfectly with another masonry wall. Instead, hedges have been used cleverly to mirror the original architecture and pay homage to the effect the centuries have had on the buildings, rather than covering it up.

the water had a second practical use–it ensured privacy for the citadel’s inhabitants, when the walls were listening in on your every conversation.

Unlike the grand western architecture of the

The Alhambra is too much to take in during

neighbouring Charles V Palace with its imposing

one visit alone, so give yourself two days. Take a

facade, the Alhambra itself appears more humble on the outside, and it’s not until you’re inside that it reveals its true splendour.

tour first, and return later to wander by yourself, perhaps after you’ve refreshed yourself with tapas and some local wine. The play of light and shadow at different times of day alone warrants

A series of indirect entrances and holding rooms

a second visit. In early June it’s already getting

mean that you meander through the space,

hot in the middle of the day, so aim for earlier in

experiencing delightful moments of drama and

the year if you can, or wait until after summer’s

surprise as you do. At its opulent heart, decoration

heat has abated.

covers every conceivable surface, from pebbles inlaid into the ground in a myriad of patterns, to intricately tiled walls, lines of poetry carved into stone and wood, and ornate plasterwork the likes of which I’ve never seen in all of my travels around the globe.

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granada

explore THE MUSEO DE BELLAS ARTES

housed in the Palace of Charles V, built next to the

Take a moment to appreciate the stately

Alhambra so the emperor could enjoy the view. Go

grey sierra elvira marble, and the

past all the scary religious stuff to the middle room

sumptuously variegated stone naturally

dedicated to still life artworks, and don’t miss the

embedded with colourful pebbles which is

last section where Manuel Angeles Ortiz and Ismaël

all quarried in nearby Loja.

González de la Serna are featured.

The Paseo de los tristes, or promenade of the sad ones,

THE 11TH CENTURY EL BANUELO

is a walk in the Darro valley, between Alhambra and

Hammam al-Yawza, is a non-functioning

Albaicin. In days gone by it was the path of funerary

bathhouse in the Albaicin quarter that

processions, but today it’s a charming thoroughfare that

makes for a fascinating visit. Every

follows the path of the river, bordered by old churches,

beautifully preserved arch and column is

bubbling fountains, a bell-tower you can climb, and

beautiful, but be sure to also look up to the

many places to eat and drink. It’s cobblestoned and you

ceiling as you wander through the series of

share the path with taxis and bikes, so leave the heels at

chambers, so you don’t miss the octagonal

home, this is a sneaker-only town. Much of the stone

and star-shaped skylights, which acted as

you see here is local.

vents for steam to escape.

to see more follow @TheStylistsGuide on Instagram & @SibellaCourt & @TheSocietyinc

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PART O1. GRANADA

E AT & E X P L O R E

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TAPAS & BODEGAS

It’s honestly hard to go wrong with tapas in Granada. For the traditional vibe, Bodegas Castañeda and Casa Enrique are good choices. More contemporary options include Rosario Varela and Casa Patrona.

Go to Heladeria Los Italianos for ice cream. It’s been in business for 87 years for a reason. As you walk down the streets between venues, enjoy the scent of the heirloom citrus trees which are a feast for the senses in themselves.

PARADOR DE GRANADA

The Parador de Granada is within the grounds of the Alhambra. I get up early and walk around the citadel–the buildings aren’t open for the day yet, but it’s almost magical to wander between them at that quiet hour, feeling like I have the place to myself.

Tip: Room 304 is in a turret known as the Torre del Alba. The interior decor isn’t anything to write home about, and the bedroom itself doesn’t have windows, but if you go up the stairs into the turret itself, you can pull out the sofa bed and sleep there instead, with a view over the summer gardens.

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PART 02. ROADTRIP

GRANADA TO RONDA

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shop, explore, eat , stay

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ROAD TRIP: GRANADA TO RONDA

Embarking on a picturesque road trip through the

However, we do stop, briefly, in Antequera,

stunning landscapes of Andalusia, we set off from

visiting a bull ring and experiencing an

Granada, ham baguette in hand. Our destination: the

average lunch in an average spot. It serves as

countryside outside of Ronda. Choosing to veer off the

a reminder that sometimes, it’s best to stick to

beaten path, we take the back road A95, immersing

the road! Back in the car, giant-headed Queen

ourselves in the kaleidoscope of pinks, oranges, and

Anne Lace flowers line the road, bobbing in

ochre reds that adorn the limestone valleys.

the gentle breeze, nodding us on our way.

As we wind our way through the countryside, olive

It’s early June and it’s a lovely 28 degrees

groves punctuate the landscape, their sage foliage

celsius. You can feel the Levante dialling

creating a serene backdrop to fields of wheat and bales

up its vibrancy and warmth as it begins the

of garlic being harvested. There’s no need to stop when

downhill rush into summer.

it’s so enjoyable to take in the vistas on the ride.

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s tay Navigating through the windy streets that meander

We dine in the peace and quiet of our jewelbox

through the countryside, we reach our destination,

of a room, the gentle patter of early evening rain

Hotel la Fuente de la Higuera. The hotel boasts a

outside making it feel even more like a haven.

pool, nestled in a tranquil walled garden with views out over the terraced hillside and an honesty bar.

Tip: We only had five days on this trip so we avoided the Malaga Coast, sticking to the high road

We are in Room 1, a gorgeous garden suite with

instead. If you have a little more time, drop down to

wooden floors painted a sunny egg yellow. A green

the coast, and also take a detour up to Cordoba to

velvet sofa, a luxurious four-poster bed, and Spanish

see the Moorish architecture. It adds about 5 hours

colonial antiques adorn the space, all gently lit with

driving each way, but is well worth it!

lamps. Then there’s the giant copper tub. Even as a migraine takes hold, I’m in heaven. There couldn’t be a nicer place to rest and recuperate. Outside the window framed by grapevines, the hotel’s lush garden brims with fragrant roses, olive trees, and a graceful ginkgo tree. Further afield, we spy almond trees, firs with natural topiary tops and more olive trees–these ones ancient and blossoming. Dinner features fresh market produce such as white asparagus and succulent fish.

to see more follow @TheStylistsGuide on Instagram & @SibellaCourt & @TheSocietyinc

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EXPLORE RONDA

Perched atop the dramatic limestone cliffs of

As we wander through the streets, I’m

Andalusia, Ronda looks down into the gorge where

mesmerised by the abundance of incredible

the Guadalevin River flowing peacefully through the

wrought iron work adorning the town. From

heart of the town.

door hardware and street lanterns to gates and railings, the exquisite metalwork is a

We are captivated by the local craftsmanship,

testament to the fact that the town has been

particularly the art of weaving Nea, a traditional

steeped in this trade for centuries.

technique used for woven seats. This intricate craft showcases the artisans’ skill and dedication to preserving their local cultural heritage.

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They tell me it’s part of their gypsy heritage.

The main pedestrian shopping street has

Even street bins casually display heart-achingly

everything you need to create a feast of local fare.

beautiful metalwork that has me swooning.

Olive oil, a staple of the region, takes centre stage, while the local jamón iberico, mushrooms and

Ronda is a town of bridges, each with its own

artisanal goat and ewe’s cheese are also excellent.

unique history. The “new” bridge, dating back

If eating out, try the local almond soup, or the

to the 18th century, stands proudly alongside

hearty spinach and chickpea stew.

its Roman and 14th-century counterparts. The streets are cobbled, with tiled street names that add to the town’s charm. We visit the bullring, which is one of the oldest in

THE PARADOR

Spain, and it’s worth it for the beauty of the hand

Get a room at the Parador in town, with balconies

painted barricades alone. A quick whizz through

overlooking the stunningly dramatic gorge, it

the onsite museum is also worthwhile to admire

can’t be beaten for location.

the costume finery.

Ronda really is a charming town with a magnificent view. Peacock calls echo through the river gorge from the moorish hillside abundance home (waiting for heritage approval to become a hotel). Before you leave, let yourself get lost in the old part of town. On one of these cobbled paths you may come across the old olive chair maker who weaves with Nea.

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Jerez, or Jerez de la Frontera as it’s formally known,

The Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art

is a melting pot of architectural styles, having been

is worth a visit. Catch one of their world-famous

home to Romans, Moors and Christians over the

equestrian performances, a touristy but fun

centuries. 18th century warehouses line the streets with their dignified creamy plastered walls, and the most beautiful lanterns cast light on the Gothic,

highlight of any visit to Jerez. It’s worth investing in a private tour so you can access all the rooms, hang out and see the gorgeous horses.

Baroque and Moorish facades of everything from

But never fear, if you miss the school, the Museo

bodegas to the cathedral and the belltower.

del Enganche is the true highlight for me anyway. Its displays of carriages, horses and tackle are

The Alcázar fortress dates back to the 12th century and houses an enormous park within its crenellated double walls. Like many sites here it closes at 2pm, with last tours at noon, so make use of the morning and save the afternoon for tapas

outstanding, even if this isn’t something you thought you’d be interested in. I was especially captivated by the carriage upholstery, which demonstrates the true expertise gained when a community spends hundreds of years perfecting an artform–sublime.

and sherry. If you’re inspired by the equestrian style–or even if you just love a beautifully handmade hat and boots–visit Sombreros Antonio Garcia. If you find a hat in your size, grab it!

to see more follow @TheStylistsGuide on Instagram & @SibellaCourt & @TheSocietyinc

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HOTEL BODEGA TIO PEPE

Hotel Bodega Tio Pepe for super elegant rooms bedecked with French oak, limestone floors and etched marble. And don’t miss the majestic views of the cathedral and fort from the rooftop terrace and pool.

EL AMACEN & MERCADO DE ABASTOS

All of the major wineries of the famed sherry region also have a place in the town. If you don’t have time to tour the countryside from one cellar door to the next, you can simply take a few steps down the old laneways romantically covered with grapevines to nip into their Jerez bodegas instead. Tio Pepe has a very fine one. El Amacen is a good spot to stop for wine and tasty tapas. For fresh fish, fruit and vegetables, visit the Mercado de Abastos on Calle Doña Blanca. The Cádiz coast is just a stone’s throw away, so the fish is excellent, but note that it’s not available on Mondays.

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Seville, or Sevilla to the locals, is a city where culture, history, and mouthwatering cuisine converge. Flat, and easy to get around by foot or bike, it’s a dream to wander around this cultural melting pot that combines Moorish, Christian and Jewish influences–as long as you avoid the extreme heat of mid-summer and choose your footwear wisely!

Begin your explorations by immersing yourself in the history and culture of Seville by paying a visit to the local bookstore. You can indulge in books on carriages, saddles, clothing, artists, food, plants and, of course, the famed architecture of the region. As you meander through the charming streets, you’ll be dazzled by the exquisite tapas interiors and shop fronts that adorn every corner. Seville takes pride in its attention to detail, showcasing the most beautiful streetscapes wherever you look. This is the home of flamenco, so set aside some time to explore the traditional flamenco shops, brimming with a vibrant array of fans, gloves, scarves, and other accessories. Head to Antonio García Sombreros (the purveyor of equestrian goods also has 3 shops here in Seville, each one different) and Sombrerería Maquedano, where you can discover a treasure trove of felt hats, straw hats, jackets, skirts, leather boots, scarves, and fine wool ponchos.

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s hop A visit to Cordoneria Alba is a must for textile

The exquisite details and stunning gardens will

enthusiasts. The magic of intricate hand-

captivate your senses as you immerse yourself in

loomed passementerie and textiles spill out

centuries-old history.

onto the street as the 18th-century loom refuses to be confined within its walls. Almacenes

Before bidding farewell to Seville, make sure to

Velasco is another place to discover beautiful

visit the iconic Metropol Parasol, an architectural

passementerie, trims and fabric.

masterpiece by Zaha Hadid. Do go up into it– the views are breathtaking. There is a working

Populart is another must-visit with its stunning

hammam in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood,

collection of Granada terracotta glazed bowls

Aire, where you can visit the pools and book

and vessels. These beautiful creations are

various treatments. We didn’t have time, but I’m

overflowing with Andalusian charm and you’ll

told it’s blissfully relaxing.

want to take them all home with you. If you’re a stationery enthusiast, Papeleria Ferrer sells

And last but not least, the Plaza de España is a

quills and ink, as well as more modern writing

must-see. Lose yourself in the grandeur of this

implements, globes and the kind of ornate

landmark square, adorned with intricate tile

notebooks you’ll want to immediately fill with

work and surrounded by a picturesque park.

your travel musings. Discover the friendly rivalry between Sevillans and Granadians at the Alcazar, an architectural gem that predates the Alhambra.

to see more follow @TheStylistsGuide on Instagram & @SibellaCourt & @TheSocietyinc

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e at & s tay PALACIO BUCARELLI

We stayed at Palacio Bucarelli, a converted 18th century house in the old part of town, owned & occupied by the same family for centuries. The large, generous rooms are more like mini apartments, and I can attest that room 14 is beautiful! There’s a central courtyard where you can enjoy the tranquillity along with a cocktail you’ve mixed at the honesty bar.

For a hands-on experience, book an Andalusian cooking lesson with Patricia de Terry Moreno-Campillo in her apartment located in a picturesque square. Learn the art of preparing traditional local dishes like Salmorejo (the thicker, creamier cousin of gazpacho), Tortilla de Patatas (Spanish omelette), Arroz Marinero (similar to paella) and a sumptuous dark chocolate mousse. You’ll leave with not just the recipes, but also the memories of a delightful little culinary adventure.

When not cooking yourself, indulge in the local gastronomy by dining out at the countless bars and restaurants that Seville has to offer. From savoury tapas dishes like Pescado Frito (fried fish) and Iberian Ham to the mouthwatering Torrijas (a Spanish twist on French toast), every meal is a delight.

Indulge your taste buds at Confiteria La Campana, where you can savour delectable ice cream and sweets, perfectly complemented by a cup of coffee or a refreshing beer at the bar.

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e at Patricia’s Salmorejo Recipe Ingredients: - 1 kilo of Tomatoes (the quality of the tomatoes is one of the most important factors in the taste) - 100 grs. white bread without crust - 1 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (again, quality is important) - 1 Clove of Garlic (not too big) - A Splash of Sherry Vinegar (although any wine vinegar can be substituted) - 1 coffee spoon of salt - 2 Hard Boiled Eggs - Diced Serrano Ham

Instructions: 1. Blend all the ingredients together, but the oil. 2. Add oil, if your blender has it, open the small hole in the top. Slowly add the olive oil as you are blending at a moderate speed. If it doesn’t have the hole, stop and go adding little by little. 3. Serve in small bowls with diced hard boiled egg and ham as condiments. Serve cold.

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Andalusia | A Roadtrip Through Spain

Articles inside

Patricia’s Salmorejo Recipe

AMACEN & MERCADO DE ABASTOS

the alhambra

SPAIN TRAVELOGUE