HanSik_summer_First Issue by TheTasteof Korea

2014 SUMMER First Issue | Special Theme | What is Korean Food? | Tasty Story | Ancestral Recipes Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Culinary Heritage Jang

CONTENTS

2014 SUMMER First Issue

Opening Message

Special Theme

Dinner Is Served

View What is Korean Food?

Column 1 Korean Food is Truly a Blessed Cuisine

Column 2 Korean Cuisine and the Power of Bap

Column 3 Preserving Korean Food, Preserving Korean Culture

Theme Info Infographic of Korean food

Tasty Story

It Tastes Better When Shared

Ancestral Recipes Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk

Korea’s Culinary Heritage The Deciding Factor in Korean Food : Jang

Seasonal Recipe Tomatoes Used in Experimental Korean Dishes

International Korean menu guide How to Romanize Bibim Naengmyeon

Publisher: Kang Minsu Date of publication: July 31, 2014 Publishing organization: Korean Food Foundation (koreanfood.net, hansik.org) PR team: Park Sunhee, Won Jisuk, Lee Semi, Kim Bini Address: No. 1306, aT Center, 27 Gangnam-daero (Yangjae-dong), Seocho-gu, Seoul Phone: 82-2-6300-2054 Fax: 82-2-6300-2055 Online: koreanfood.net, hansik.org, twitter.com/hansikkorea, facebook.com/hansikkorea, weibo.com/thetasteofkorea Planning, reporting and design: EEPOP (www.eepop.co.kr), 82-2-514-7567 This <HANSIK> can also be found at the KFF’s oﬃcial website (koreanfood.net, hansik.org). You can also view the magazine(korean version) on your smartphone in a digital format by downloading the Korean Food app from the Apple App Store or Android Play Store or by scanning the QR code on the left. The magazine’s iPhone app will be launched in August.

Opening Message

The newsletter for the globalization of Korean food culture<HANSIK>, We remain committed to our mandate to both promote Korean cuisine and disseminate it throughout the world.

The project to globalize Korean food, headed by the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs (MAFRA), is already rolling into its fifth year, with the Korean Food Foundation, the project’s main organizer, steadily charging into its fourth. Although there have been voices of doubt, the Korean food globalization project is steadily gaining ground in a variety of areas through a five-step strategy and ninestep process. In a time when Korea’s distinct cuisine and food tourism offer inroads for igniting the creative economy and encouraging cultural prosperity, the Korean Food Foundation’s role is more important than ever. Although the road to popularizing Korean food culture is as long and exacting as Korean cuisine is varied, we still have high hopes for the future, thanks to the help and interest of all our supporters. Beyond being inseparable from human history, food forms a key element of regional culture that is vital to a country’s international image, serving to both solidify a cultural brand and jumpstart intercultural exchange. When a country’s cuisine and food culture spread outside its borders, a plethora of related industries also benefit, including agriculture, food production, tourism and cultural production, not to mention the jobs created by the demand to train and dispatch skilled personnel. With international interest in Korea at peak levels due to events like the Incheon Asian Games and the Korea-ASEAN Commemorative Summit, it is important to take such interest and direct it towards Korean cuisine. Such efforts will serve to boost the national image and breathe new life into the creative economy through the food and tourism industries, the ultimate result being an integrated network of high-value industries. We promise to continue using Korean Food to spread awareness about the quality of Korean cuisine around the world, working to inspire more international interest. In light of Korean food’s recent upsurge in popularity across the globe and the government’s strategy to further propagate this interest, the Korean Food Foundation will uphold its collaboration with the Korean people to ensure the successful globalization of Korean food. On a final note, I would like to sincerely thank all of our supporters for their unconditional assistance and their love for Korea’s food and gastronomic culture. We humbly ask for your continued support and interest so that we may remain steadfast in our march to globalize Korea’s native cuisine. Sincerely, Kang Minsu, Chairperson of the Korean Food Foundation

View

What is Korean Food? Korean food is being re-explored from a variety of different perspectives these days, a time when culinary traditions are gaining wider recognition as their own distinct subculture. Bearing this in mind, we rarely take the time to think about the value or origins of the food we eat on a daily basis. Every dish has its own story behind it: the spring vegetables that sprout through the tough earth, the single grain of rice steeped in the farmer’s summer sweat, the colorful fruits that whisper of an autumn breeze and the seafood that comes soaked in the ocean’s icy winter waters-it is always accompanied by someone’s hard work and passion. So, what does the Korean food of our memories look like? The home-cooked meals that console us during hard times, the food we share with loved ones or the unexpected Korean restaurant encountered abroad-each sheds new light on the multifaceted nature of the Korean culinary experience. Let’s share some new stories about the Korean food we know and seek to define.

Column 1

Korean Food is Truly a Blessed Cuisine

Hansik(Korean food) is more than simply a cuisine-it reflects the nation’s identity, with a distinct, independent character that is relevant to Koreans ’ contemporary lifestyle and integral to their mainstream culture. When considering such concepts, as well as what’s widely considered“Korean”by Koreans, hansik would appear to be an ideal way to express the Korean identity. Born of the land and sea intertwining throughout the years amidst the Korean peninsula's atmospheric conditions, hansik is a native product of the soil. What are worth examining further, however, are the other aspects of the Korean identity that are also revealed through the country’s cuisine. Written by Kim Sukshin (professor of Food Science and Nutrition at the Catholic University of Korea)

Of all the dishes I prepare for my family, there’s one specific meal that my kids have always loved: “Daddy’s Kimchi Bokkeum Bap.” Once the steaming frying pan is set on the table, my family blows on it to cool it off, repeatedly exclaiming “It’s so good!” as they eat. Crafted with more technique than you’d expect, kimchi bokkeum bap is a staple on our family menu, one that reflects the identity of our household. Let’s expand our minds for a moment and think of our household as one “country.” My kimchi bokkeum bap would be considered a national dish, and if our country was Korea the dish would be classified as Korean food. If that were the case, this particular Korean dish, kimchi fried rice, would represent elements of the Korean identity-it can’t help but do so. How else could call a certain food Korean? But before delving into the Korean identity behind the country’s unique culinary offerings, it’s important to first define what that identity is. The ideas of contemporary relevance, mass appeal, independence and uniqueness can all be used to form such a definition.

What exactly qualifies as Korean food? In this context, contemporary relevance means that for something to qualify as Korean food, it must still be a part of life in Korea today. In other words, it would be meaningless to build a discussion of Korean identity around food that is no longer connected to modern society. Kimchi, for example, is eaten as frequently today as it was in the past, and is thus a valid addition to such a discussion. If kimchi were simply a figment of history, no longer made, consumed or sold in the present, then it would be removed from the list of foods that reflect the Korean identity. Similarly, if pizza were no longer eaten in Italy today, it would no longer be associated with the Italian identity: a food of the past that fails to represent Italy today. The more you preserve of a country’s heritage, the more culturally rich its contemporary life becomes. In any event, whether or not something is native to a country is irrelevant when discussing identity. What really matters is whether or not it exists in the country’s current existence. Yet, even if something exists in the present, it cannot become a part of the national identity if it is now acknowledged by the masses. Mass appeal, or mainstream recognition, implies that a cultural product is something that many people can recognize, meaning the identity of Korean society is largely dictated by the tastes and preferences of the average Korean. Let’s take naengmyeon, or cold buckwheat noodles, for example. Traditionally a winter dish meant to be served cold, naengmyeon is typically divided into Pyeongyang-style, which uses a broth, and Hamheung-style, which uses a thick spicy sauce (there’s also a variety served with hwe, or slices of raw

fish). Although naengmyeon was first introduced to South Korea during the Korean War, when Northern refugees would prepare it out of nostalgia of their hometown, it is now enjoyed by everyone, regardless of the season. In short, naengmyeon is no longer a strictly North Korean specialty, but a part of the general Korean identity. On a similar note, although bulgogi (Korean barbecue beef) is less common than it was in the old days, it is still a staple national dish, and is commonly associated with the Korean identity by many non-Koreans. That being said, what about hamburgers, which are both present and popular within Korea? Can we not associate hamburgers with the Korean identity? The answer to this lies within independence, or singularity. Independence is the instinct of an individual to distinguish him or herself from the group, separating what’s theirs from what’s yours while striving to increase personal autonomy to the greatest degree possible. Due to the fact that Koreans (as opposed to Americans) claim no ownership over hamburgers, it is difficult to associate them with the Korean identity. Another point to consider is one of the most fundamental aspects of identity: uniqueness. Uniqueness is not necessarily a matter of where something comes from, but rather how distinctive the entity’s characteristics are. It stems from the distinct traits of a certain group-in short, the group’s individuality. Identity is an expression of such individuality, with individuality being a quality that distinguishes while also implying a certain level of dignity and beauty. Individuality, therefore, is something that cannot be attained through imitation. Without individuality, there can be no identity, and to achieve individuality, uniqueness needs to be combined with creativity.

The Keyword to Understanding Korean Culture, Bok Identity can also be evaluated from another perspective, one that departs from its typical criteria. Two distinct concepts are often brought up when discussing what distinguishes Korea from other countries and nationalities: one is the Korean language, and the other is the idea of a common Korean philosophy that perpetuates throughout various branches of thought, the center of which is shamanism. It can be said that whenever Koreans have embraced a foreign cultural element-whether it’s Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism or even Christianity-it has always been filtered through a lens of shamanism. Of Korean shamanism’s many distinct traits, the most prevalent is the concept of bok, or fortune. Korea’s geography and history are also contributing factors to its national identity. Stretching longitudinally, the peninsula varies between both maritime and continental climates: the land is mountainous, there are four distinct seasons, summers get heavy rain and winters can be harsh. It’s a place

with several geographic and atmospheric advantages, as the land can support grains and a variety of crops, while the surrounding ocean boasts an abundant seafood supply. The country is not immune to flood and drought, however, which commonly wipe out harvests. From the days of the Three Kingdoms Period to the time of the Goryeo Dynasty, and even in the Joseon era, the chief culprit of widespread illness was malnutrition caused by famines that resulted from natural disasters. When considering the nation’s history of repeated disease and famine, it isn’t surprising that the aforementioned concept of bok is fundamental to the Korean identity. Praying for good fortune is one of the Korean people’s most innate and native instincts, from high-ranking officials to common peasants; rich or poor, the desire for good fortune is equally prevalent in everyone. Korea traditionally has five symbols to represent bok: su, or long life; bu, or wealth; gangnyeong, or health and peace of mind; yuhodeok, or love of morality; and gojongmyeong, or peaceful death. The only way to achieve these five levels of fortune, or obok, is by living a long and healthy life, which means eating well. On New Year’s Day, or Seollal, Koreans will often tell each other, “May the new year bring you fortune,” a standard example of Koreans wishing for good fortune. Even dining utensils are often designed around concepts related to bok. A classic example is instances where the Chinese character for bok, 福, would be engraved into dasikpan, a wooden tray meant for traditional snacks, and tteoksal, a tool used to imprint patterns onto rice cakes. A variety of traditional cooking tools were described using the word bok: the jori, a tool used to cleanse rice, was called bokjori on New Year’s Day; gimssam, or rice wrapped in seaweed, was called bokssam on the first full moon, as was the rice wrapped in perilla leaves that was eaten on the hottest days of summer; and the food that was offered during ancestral rites was called eumbok, eum roughly meaning “refreshments.” Furthermore, Korean children have always been scolded for playing with their food with claims that it’s bad luck. Bok is a word that’s still commonly used in modern Korean. Domestically grown mangos are often referred to as bok mangos, while watermelons that are sweet and have light outer shells are called bok subak (“bok watermelons”). The idea of bok was an inherent part of the food eaten by ancient Koreans, and remains an integral facet of the identity that Korean cuisine represents today. So, please, let’s eat gratefully. Otherwise, we might shatter the bok contained within.

The author Kim Sukshin graduated from Seoul National University with a degree in Food Science and Biotechnology before going on to earn a PhD in the department of Food Science and Technology at Ohio State University. After serving as a senior researcher in the Agency of Defense Development and lecturing for the department of Food and Nutrition Science in Chosun University, he is now a professor at the Catholic University of Korea’s Department of Food Science and Nutrition. Dr. Kim is currently working to instill proper food ethics in today’s students, as well as inform the general public on the importance of ethics in food and food culture. As an author, he has co-authored the following books: Food Ethics, Speaking of Good Food, Food Preservation, and Food Processing and Preservation. He also co-translated Food Physics by Ludger O. Figura and Arthur A. Teixeira.

Column 2

Korean Cuisine and the Power of Bap There are 7 billion people living on Earth today, and they are all omnivorous animals who belong to the species Homo sapiens. People eat vegetables and grains, as well as milk and meat, but the speciﬁc varieties and preparation methods available are completely diﬀerent from country to country. The Chinese eat Chinese food, the Japanese eat Japanese food, Westerners eat Western food-and Koreans, of course, eat Korean food. Written by Lee Duckhwan (professor of chemistry and science communication at Sogang University) Photos by Choi Jaein Location generously provided by Seoil Farm

Korean cuisine: starring bap, with side dishes in supporting roles If the only reason we consumed food was to obtain the nutrients our bodies need to survive, there would be little point in distinguishing between the cuisines of different countries. That is to say, eating is not merely a method of gaining nutrition; it also serves to reinforce our understanding of who we are. Korean food is no exception. With a culinary history that is steeped in the identity and culture of the Korean people, Korea’s palate also reflects the natural and environmental characteristics of the Korean peninsula, where it has developed for several centuries. Without question, bap(steamed rice) forms the backbone of Korean cuisine. Thought to have originated in India or elsewhere in the southern region, bap is the staple cereal of continental Asia. No matter how much an Asian person may eat during any given meal, they are generally not satisfied unless the dish includes some bap. Koreans in particular have a popular saying that bap gives them the strength to keep going. Of course, Koreans do not live on bap alone. The side dishes covering Korean dining tables represent the attempt to offer the essential nutrients that bap does not provide. Interestingly, there are only two Asian nations that prefer sticky bap over other varieties: Korea and Japan. Most other Asian cultures favor drier, long-grain indica bap. This Korean preference for sticky bap has ultimately shaped the evolution of the country’s cuisine as we know it, and was the motivation behind the development of guk (thin soup) and jjigae (thick stew), two dishes that characterize Korean fare.

Korean food understood through unique aspects of Korean culture Sticky bap and soups have also influenced Korean dining culture. What is truly unique about the Korean table setting is not the metal chopsticks, as most people might assume, but rather the oddly shaped metal spoon. Of course, it’s true that Korean chopsticks differ from those used in China and Japan in regard to size, shape and material. However, during the Joseon period, chopsticks were exclusively a utensil of the yangban, or the upper classes-those who had the luxury of eating a variety of side dishes. In fact, when looking at folk paintings from this period, chopsticks are not easy to find on Korean dining tables. The common people survived on a diet of bap and soup: why go through the trouble of learning

how to use chopsticks? Indeed, there is little evidence to support the belief that the reason Koreans use slippery metal chopsticks (rather than the wooden chopsticks found in Japan and China) is that they are better with their hands. There is also a good explanation for the fermented food (such as kimchi, doenjang and soy sauce), which are substantial components of the Korean diet. These foods are the product of the climate on the Korean peninsula, and the long, hard winters that Koreans have long been forced to endure. The country’s geography also helps to explain how Koreans developed such a reliance on these salted dishes. Since Korea is a peninsula-and, by definition, surrounded by the sea on three sides-it has always been relatively easy to gather the salt needed to cure food.

Priority should be given to the storytelling potential of Korean food It is a fact that Korean food has distinctive characteristics that set it apart from that of other countries, partially for its ingredients and the cooking methods but also in its table setting and dining etiquette. In order to bring Korean food to the attention of people around the world, Koreans should spend less time promoting what they feel is superior about their cuisine and instead focus on its uniqueness. They should adopt a storytelling approach that takes advantage of the traditions and culture inherent in the country’s culinary background; after all, people are not drawn to another country’s food because of its health benefits or scientific preparation. What Koreans need to do is to craft a distinctive cultural brand drawing upon the unique flavors and aroma of their local flavors. They also need rid themselves of the irrational belief that Korean food is better than other cuisines. The author Lee Duckhwan graduated with a B.A. in chemistry from Seoul National University and a Ph.D. in theoretical chemistry from Cornell University. He is currently a professor of chemistry at Sogang University. Dr. Lee has served as the president of the Korean Chemical Society, and he has also received the Republic of Korea Science Culture Prize and the Ungbi Medal from the Order of Science and Technology Merit. He has translated around twenty books, including Bill Bryson’s A Short History of Nearly Everything and has written a number of his own books, including Lee Deokhwan Talks about Science. Major Korean papers have published around 1,800 of his columns on a variety of topics, including lifestyle, culture and food.

Column 3

Preserving Korean Food, Preserving Korean Culture

In modern society, food is not only sustenance but culture. Italian pizza, the Jewish bagel, Japanese sushi and Mexican salsa are all foods that have become part of the global vocabulary, subsequently becoming regionalized and adapted to local taste buds. Conversely, there are as many if not more countries that have lost their own culinary culture or had it diluted by international influences, which have opened up a host of problems related to ethnic identity and class and generational divides. In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s global free-for-all for cultural domination, what are some of the necessary steps to prepare Korean food for the race? Written by Cha Younsoo (Professor at Chonbuk National University, Department of Human Ecology)

Throughout the past few years, both the public and private sectors have put their heads together in order to promote Korean food on a global level, and to much practical success. Simultaneously, Korean dining tables have also become susceptible to a variety of global influences. Japanese sushi, Indian curry, American burgers and Italian pasta have long since become fixtures in the Korean diet; and Vietnamese pho and Mexican tacos and burritos are vying to join their ranks as well. In addition, college towns, often self-described vanguards of cultural evolution, have opened the floodgates to a smorgasbord of exotic cuisine, from Thai tom yum kung to Greek gyros, American jambalaya, Spanish tapas, and Indian makhani, each dish offering its own unique flavors and stories to tell. Whether or not Korean food is yet properly globalized, it is high time to look at Korean food and the course of its spread around the world. Culture does not change overnight. It is a long-term, continuous process, and it is therefore necessary to take a step back and examine the recipe behind this cultural phenomenon.

The Need for a Systemized Mechanism to Promote the Greatness of Korean Food I once had the good fortune to visit an Ethiopian restaurant. The patrons there were all eating a flatbread called injera, made of a crop called teff, with meat and vegetables, using their bare hands. Because I had never eaten anything without utensils, I was at first a little hesitant, which prompted someone who appeared to be the manager to ask me about my previous lack of experience, after which he approached with a small plate to demonstrate how to eat with your hands. He explained the nutritional values of teff and told me of the tradition of gursha, which is a custom of feeding others by offering a piece right into their mouths-an act of friendship and love. My companions, who, at first had been rather cautious in their concern for stains, were soon fully practicing gursha with gusto, and to this day the experience remains in my mind as a fond memory of Ethiopian food. In this way, I think that culinary culture is the experience of eating, seeing, and feeling combined with a sense of togetherness. Rather than taking it for granted because of its proximity and conventionality, Korea should evaluate the appeal and value of its cuisine, taking steps to proudly promote it on the global stage. This is why we need a systemized mechanism through which to educate Korean youth and society at large about the flavors and excellence of Korean food. It may take a long time for the young to become familiar and comfortable with gochujang (Red chilli sauce), doenjang (bean paste), and ganjang (soy sauce), and recognize the beauty of Korean food's timelessness, but this is a critical step on the path to Korean foodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s globalization. Education and cultural projects are necessarily time-consuming, and the journey must be a marathon, not a race.

Narrating the Story Behind Korean Food The world is a field of unlimited competition for cultural dominance, and for good reason; culture holds unlimited potential for the creation of economic opportunities. What, then, should Korea's task be in going forward with Korean food? There is no need to hurry, for the answer is right under our nose. Korean food has an array of super healthy fermented foods, and an outstanding history of medicinal use, not to mention the World Health Organization's recognition of it as a model for healthy eating. Additionally, it has the high ideals of harmony, patience, consideration and beauty all woven into its narrative. When Koreans appreciate and are proud of their own culture, the world will follow.

The author Cha Younsoo is a professor at Chonbuk National University, where she graduated with a degree from the Department of Food Science and Technology. She received her doctorate at the University of Tennessee. She currently serves as the director of the Planning OďŹ&#x192;ce at Chonbuk National University and as Director of international collaboration and coordination for the Korean Nutrition Society, while also acting as Chairperson for their Special Committee for Globalization. In addition, she serves as Chairperson of the Korean Society of Food and Science Nutrition's International Collaboration Committee. She co-authored the book, Nutrition Story and Diet and Exercise for Practical Applications.

Theme Info

Infographic of Korean food How much do we know about Korean food? Six familiar yet refreshing notes on Korean food

Kimchi, the king of pickled foods

Makgeolli, contains 80 billion lactobacilli

336 varieties

80 billion

With 336 diﬀerent varieties, kimchi is the most representative of all Korean fermented foods. Rich in vitamins and minerals, it has

One bottle of makgeolli (Korean traditional rice wine) (700~800 ㎖ ) reportedly contains 70 to 80 billion lactobacilli , a key contributor to healthy digestion. However, drinking makgeolli is

been hailed as“king of the pickles”by The New York Times. Source: <Korean book Why do we mix, wrap and roll our food?>

not just about ingesting the equivalent of 100 to 120 individual servings (65㎖) of plain yogurt. Source: Maeil News

Garlic, one of the world’s top 10 healthy foods

10,342 Korean restaurants worldwide

The world’s top 10 healthiest foods

10,342

Garlic has been listed as one of the world’s“10 superfoods”by American magazine <TIME>, and is an indispensable ingredient in Korean food. Those who have sidestepped Korean food due to its strong garlic ﬂavor might want to rethink this position given garlic’s newfound superfood status.

No. 2 China 2,116 No. 3 United States 1,063 No. 4 Vietnam 285 No. 5 Australia 191

No. 1 Japan 5,595

Source: Korean Food Foundation

Source: <TIME> magazine

Korean food’s 7:3 golden ratiobillion lactobacilli

Bibimbap, the No. 1 favorite Korean food with foreigners

7:3

No. 1 Bibimbap

Nutritionists worldwide recommend the dietary ratio of seven

No.1 Bibimbap (steamed rice topped with sautéed beef and a variety of colorful vegetables), No.2 Kimchi, No.3 Samgye

vegetables to three animal foods for optimal nutrition, a balance that is regularly maintained in Korean food. Rice is especially rich in the essential amino acid lysine, as well as other minerals. In addition, Although a plant-based diet may offer inadequate amounts of vitamin B12, Korean food compensates for this with many B12-rich dishes at Korean mealtimes, such as those with fermented soybean. Source: Health Media

Tang (ginseng chicken soup), No. 4 Bulgogi (Korean barbecue beef), No.5 Topokki (stir-fried rice cake), No.6 Samgyeopsal (grilled pork belly), No.7 Gimbap (dried seaweed rolls), No.8 Japchae (glass noodles with sautéed vegetables), No.9 Kimchi Jjigae (kimchi stew), No.10 Sundubu Jjigae (soft tofu stew with

seafood) , No . 11 Naengmyeon ( chilled buckwheat noodles) / Haemul Pajeon (seafood and green onion pancake) Source: Korea Agro-Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation (aT)

Tasty Story 16 20 24 26

It Tastes Better When Shared

Ancestral Recipes Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Culinary Heritage The Deciding Factor in Korean Food : Jang Seasonal Recipe Tomatoes Used in Experimental Korean Dishes International Korean menu guide How to Romanize Bibim Naengmyeon

Tasty Story Ancestral Recipes

A Summer Dish Loaded with the Scent of Lotus Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk, Summer Specialties Offered at Uiseong Kim Family’s Saudang House

How would a visitor from abroad react to flavors passed down through several generations within a single household, the Uiseong Kim line in Gyeongsangbuk-do-seasonings and techniques that may be unfamiliar to native Koreans, even? We were given the assignment of finding a non - Korean writer who could properly express the unique yet undeniably subtle flavors of ancestral cuisine from this old family. The decision to entrust the task to Canadian photographer and writer Gregory David Samborski was not a difficult one; a professor of Visual Communication Design in the photography department at Hanseo University, his gift for photographic narration combined with a unique literary voice made it clear that he was the man for the job. This past July, he wrote the first article for what will now be a regular column on unique foods that have been passed down within a single family line. The first item on the menu was a pair of summer dishes from the Uiseong Kim line at Saudang House: rice wrapped in lotus leaves, or yeonnipbap, and a chilled soup made from greentea and cucumbers, known as greentea oi naengguk. Written and photographed by Gregory David Samborski Organized by Kim Heeja, Im Seongeun and Choi Hyeonmi Food and location courtesy of Ryu Jeongsuk (wife of the heir to the Munjeolgong Clan of the Uiseong Kims)

Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naenguk

Four and a half hours had already passed and my car

at the base of a small mountain.

was still humming along superhighway 45 at 120km/

Stone walls built from boulders and red clay bordered

h. The road gently curved and tunneled its way through

rice paddies that lead us to her picturesque five building

the tall, lush mountaintops of Gyeongsangbuk-do.

hanok estate. She was kind but not doting, I could feel

My seatbelt held me firmly as my car decelerated

she was a strong woman when she needed to be.

towards the toll gate. As my car snaked through the tight mountain roads my thoughts drifted to food, a

Jal Meokkesseumnida! Enjoy your meal!

common occurrence. I had almost reached Ms. Ryu,

It would seem my earlier prayer in the car was

a woman with 450 years of ancestral recipes from the

effective, perhaps too effective as the meal laid

house Uiseong Kim passed down to her.

before me was entirely vegan. The feature menu was Yeonnipbap(Steamed Rice Wrapped in a Lotus Leaf)

Meeting Ms. Ryu When I was told I would be meeting Ms. Ryu to talk about and photograph food passed down through generations of mother in laws I had really no idea what to expect. I have been in Korea long enough to know “traditional Korean food” doesn’t usually involve samgyeopsal, galbi or mandu - foreigner favorites most commonly associated with Korea. I just silently prayed that there would be no raw shellfish, hoofs, brains or bugs involved. Being on assignment determined not to disappoint, I vowed to at least TRY anything that landed on my plate. After a few u-turns we found our way to the head house of Uiseong Kim a 450 year old hanok property nestled

and Greentea Oi Naenguk(Cool Green Tea Cucumber Soup), this directly translates to really wrapped rice and green tea cucumber. Ms. Ryu glided over and placed a large olive-drab pouch in front of me. I pealed back the folds of the giant steamed water lily leaf to reveal a colorful mound of rice bestrewn with persimmon, jujube, black beans, pumpkin seed and walnuts. There was really no distinctive smell, if you buried your nose right in there you might say it smelled “earthy”. There was nothing remotely scary about the contents so I dug in for a big bite with my chopsticks. The rice had a more rice-cake-like consistency than expected. It was slightly sticky, sweet and chewy. I feel its main purpose was to house and transport various fruits and

subtle aroma that I could only assume was lily leaf. The

sip on all day. On the side were a variety of mini hand made desserts called ‘Dasik’. Dasik are traditionally

Yeonnipbap to me was the kind of food you eat more

pressed sweets that lies somewhere between a cracker

nuts from the package into my mouth. There was a very

for the health benefits than the flavor. It was hearty and

and a cookie. These tiny delicacies tasted sweet and

filling. Next up was the Greentea Oi Naenguk(Cool

bitter, crispy and chewy, heathy and indulgent all at

Green Tea Cucumber Soup).

the same time. The green ones were my favorite.

Thin evenly cut strips of cucumber floated in the brown broth. My mouth was anticipating the salty-sour punch of a typical Naengmyeon/Oi Naenguk(Naeng-myeon: Ice Noodle Soup/Oi Naenguk: Cool Cucumber Soup) broth. Instead I got just the opposite, a much more subdued, smooth, borderline bitter flavor. Imagine cool green tea made from real leaves, not the package and brewed extra strong. Then add cucumber. That’s what it tasted like. The most interesting part of the soup for me was the texture of the broth. It was so smooth and it

Jal Meogeosseumnida! Thanks for the meal! I thoroughly enjoyed my lily and green tea themed gastronomic adventures with Ms. Ryu. The unique tastes will stay with me but the memory I will cherish most is the point I witnessed Ms. Ryu transform from a model merely a humoring my camera to an invested and happy participant. In the magazine is a photo Ms. Ryu requested with her favorite flower. You simply can’t fake that kind of smile.

almost slippery on the tongue. Our lunch was followed by a tea ceremony. Water lily was on the menu again, this time in the form of a giant white blossom steeped in water. Ms. Ryu gently taught me how to taste the tea, three sips to fully appreciate the flavor. Instantly the taste reminded of camomile tea but the aroma and flavors were much more subdued, which I actually liked. It’s the kind of tea one could

The writer and photographer of this column is Gregory David Samborski, a photographer and writer from Canada. He enjoys writing and photography, and has been viewing Korea's people, objects and landscapes through his lens for the past seven years.

Ta s t yStory Tasty S t o rKorea y 종가의 ’s Culinary 맛 Heritage

醬Jang

The Deciding Factor in Korean food

Fermented sauces, such as ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste) and gochujang (Red chilli sauce), are more typically used than salt to season Korean cooking. The ﬂavors catalyzed by these condiments are those that manage to be somewhat salty while still oﬀering a tantalizingly rich savory flavor. This taste encapsulates the character and charm of Korean food, and these sauces are the very essence of what makes Korean food. Written by Lee Yangsu (Professor, Department of Korean Food, Jeonnam Provincial College) Photographed by Choi Jaein Location Seoil Farm

We live in times of great material comfort and

brewing alcohol.” It is possible that word of these skills

wealth, much more so than our ancestors. Yet can we

spread as far as some of the ruling Chinese dynasties of

confidently say that this is good living? As a whole,

time, as their historical sites and ancient tomb murals

society does not seem healthy and the pollution that

also appear to depict the jars used to store fermented foods. All in all, the practices of meju (steaming

surrounds us leaves us defenseless against ill health and disease. One way to overcome this is to harness the

soybeans and making them into fermented blocks) and

wisdom of our ancestors’ dietary habits, particularly in

sauce making seem to have existed ever since the end of

the varied concepts of sincerity and fermentation, with

the era of the tribal states.

knowledge both having been bestowed upon us from previous generations. The fruits of fermentation emerge

The word meju made its literary debut in Samguk Sagi (The Chronicles of the Three Kingdoms, completed

through sincere hard work and patience, and can be

in 1145) in the context of being included in a series

viewed as the soul of Korean food. These fermented

of royal wedding gifts. There are also several other

sauces are truly the masters that control the cuisine’s

instances where the existence of fermented sauce was

unique flavors, and can take months to make and age,

indicated in literary works of the Goryeo Dynasty.

if not decades or centuries. With this patience, our

As the fermentation industry developed, the array of

ancestors have indeed given us the greatest gift in food.

fermented products became more diverse. In addition, there are records of fermented sauces being distributed

A Korean ﬂavor of 4,000 years The foundation of sauces like ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (soybean paste), gochujang (Red chilli sauce) and cheonggukjang (rich soybean paste) lies in the

to starving commoners as emergency supplies. Fermented liquor started to emerge during the Joseon Dynasty. Documents holding detailed explanations of the manufacturing of different sauces contributed to

humble soybean.

the flourishing of a unique sauce making culture, with

Although historians cannot pinpoint exactly when soybean agriculture began in Asia, the crop’s cultivation

flavors such as manchojang (an old form of gochujang), cheongyukjang (sauce made from beef, radish, tangle

has been documented as far back as 4,000 years, in

weed and red pepper), eoyukjang (sauce made from

what used to be part of Goguryeo’s Manchuria. Traces

beef and abalone) and special seasonal sauce.

of this cultivation can be seen in ruins of Bronze Age sites. In “Biographies of the Wuhuan, Xianbei and Dongyi,” a volume from third-century historical text the Records of the Three Kingdoms, indicates that “(the) ancient Goguryeo people excelled in making sauces and

Ganjang, the determining ﬂavor of any dish Ganjang is the most commonly used sauce in seasoning dishes. Interestingly, in the Korean language, the expression used to describe seasoning food to one’s taste

is “to match gan (flavor).” Phonetically, gan also has the different meaning of soy in soy (gan) sauce (jang). Judging purely by the name, soy sauce may just be known to Koreans as “the sauce that gives flavor.”

doenjang, the weight of the cancerous tissues dropped by about 80 percent. In fact, the Korean Cancer Society suggests a daily intake of doenjang guk (Soybean paste soup) to prevent cancer. Besides this, doenjang also

Melanoidin, the pigment which gives soy sauce its

helps to lower blood pressure and can aid in preventing

color, is a powerful antioxidant. Other pigments in soy

hypertension. For those concerned about the saltiness of

sauce have also recently been found to suppress genetic

doenjang dishes, just add chives to reduce excess sodium

mutations and enhance immunity. Methionine, on the

absorption, and also for an extra dose of vitamins. Cheonggukjang (rich soybean paste stew) consists of

other hand, purportedly assists with liver detoxification. Finally, soy sauce has anticancer properties, especially

soybeans that skip the meju stage and go straight to

when complemented by known cancer-fighting foods

fermentation. Because the fermentation time is shorter,

like garlic, mushrooms, eggplant, and broccoli.

the end product is not only more easily digestible, but

The taste of sauce will differ every year. The longer you

also comes packed with extra nutrients not found in

age a sauce, the deeper and sweeter its flavor.

the original soybean. Additionally, with high levels of vitamin K, cheonggukjang has anti-osteoporotic

The ubiquitous doenjang (soybean paste) Doenjang is a sauce that can be stored for long periods of time; the aging softens pungent flavors and, with its unique taste, is a crucial component of Korean food. In addition, it is an excellent anticarcinogen; in one study, when mice with cancer were regularly fed

effects, and its high isoflavone content also helps alleviate hormone loss for women going through menopause.

Gochujang (Red chilli sauce), a unique Korean food tradition The production of gochujang started after chillies were

Sauces and their delicacies

The taste of jang will differ every year. The longer you age a sauce, the deeper and sweeter its flavor.

Summer Modeum Jangajji (Assortment of Pickled Summer Vegetables) Ingredients

5 onions 10 bulbs garlic 5 bundles of bean leaves 5 saesongi mushrooms 1 bag of oyster mushroom 7 dried chillies 5 cups shrimp jeot (salted shrimp) 30 cups kelp-infused water 3 cups ganjang 3 cups doenjang

Preparation

Step 1. Blanch saesongi mushrooms and oyster mushrooms in kelp-infused water. Set the water aside after blanching (do not discard). Step 2. Peel and wash the onions and garlic. Wash the bean leaves and dried chillies. Step 3. Bring shrimp jeot to boil and filter through a fine sieve . When it has cooled, mix with soy sauce and kelp water. Step 4. Prepare crock pot and insert ingredients in the following order: onions, saesongi mushrooms, garlic, oyster mushrooms and bean leaves. Fill with mixture from Step 3. Insert dried chillies into the gaps. Step 5. Cover mixture with a mesh cloth and spread a layer of doenjang, approximately 2 cm in thickness, over the top. Seal the pot and open after 1 month to enjoy.

introduced to Korea at the time of the Japanese Invasion in 1592. Even though gochujang is sweet and hot, it

Experiential learning in Jang and slow food

leaves one refreshed and stimulated. It is often used in

Seoil Farm

seafood dishes and to season vegetables and bibimbap.

The Seoil farm facility boasts approximately 30,000 m2 of farmland with soybean iron pots, a platform for aging sauce crocks and soybean block drying rooms for a variety of experiential education experiences. The grounds also serve as a manufacturing site for doenjang, gochujang and cheonggukjang, with opportunities to directly immerse yourself in the making of sauces and tofu. Seoil Farm is also famous as a ﬁlming site for a variety of Korean dramas.

Some even say that, out of all the Korean sauces, it is the most distinctive flavor. Gochujang’s capsaicin content promotes metabolism and the breaking down of fat, making it a choice diet ingredient. Notwithstanding this common opinion, published research has suggested that, compared to capsaicin-eating mice, mice fed with well-aged gochujang exhibited both less weight gain and reduced blood cholesterol. The same study also found that well-aged gochujang can inhibit cancer cell growth.

The author Lee Yangsu, visiting professor with the Department of Korean Food at Jeonnam Provincial College , was awarded the President’s Prize at the Korea International Culinary Competition, held at the 14th Korea Food & Tourism Expo in 2013. She currently resides in Damyang, where she manages Hyangwondang, an institute that provides lessons in food coordination, traditional etiquette and tea ceremony culture.

Directions: Gyeongbu Expressway (southbound) Shingal IC →

Yeongdong Expressway to Hobeop JC → Jungbu Expressway, towards Daejeon → exit at Iljuk IC (distance from Seoul: 62 km)

Opening hours: 9:30 AM ~ 8:00 PM Inquiries: +82-31- 673-3171 Dweeungbark Village Located in Sejong City, Dweeungbark Village is a theme park centered around everything related to traditional sauces , from hands-on lessons on the making of meju, dobu, doenjang and injeolmi (rice cake made from glutinous rice and coated with bean ﬂour) to a themed museum.

Directions: Towards Jochiwon → Towards Jeonui, exit towards Cheongsong Industry Complex and continue driving straight Opening hours: 10:00 AM ~ 8:00 PM Inquiries: +82- 44- 868 -7007

Tasty Story Seasonal Recipe

Summer Passion Tomatoes Used in Experimental Korean Dishes

A light fusion canapé with fresh summer tomatoes and

Tomato cheonggukjang (rich soybean paste) canapé

healthy cheonggukjang this dish offers an exquisite blend of simple ingredients, uniquely flavored with cheonggukjang (not with the ubiquitous Japanese natto) and enlivened with plum sauce to promote digestion. Ingredients ½ head of lettuce 10 cherry tomatoes 2 eggplant chillies (Korean chillies that resemble mini eggplants) 1 teaspoon black sesame seeds Dressing 100g cheonggukjang (rich soybean paste), the fresh, edible variety 1 small spoon ganjang 30g plum sauce Preparation Step 1. Shred lettuce into bite-sized pieces, then soak in cold water, remove and strain. Step 2. Wash cherry tomatoes, remove stems and slice into halves. Step 3. Deseed and cut eggplant chillies into 1cm pieces. Step 4. In a bowl, evenly mix the cheonggukjang, soy sauce and plum sauce to make the salad dressing. Step 5. Arrange the lettuce on a serving plate, pour the salad dressing over top to coat lightly and decoratively place the cherry tomatoes and chillies. Sprinkle with black sesame seeds before serving.

Widely known as a superfood, tomatoes present a trifecta of ‘anti’s: anti-aging and anticancer properties, as well as loads of antioxidants. With summer in mind, take advantage of this seasonal staple with the following dishes to help your body and mind revitalize and energize in the summer heat. Recipes and food styling : Park Seoran, culinary researcher (Foodopera) Coordinator : Leem Sungeun Photos : Kim Naeun

This delightful summer salad with tomatoes and the fragrance of Korean sesame is sure to be a crowd pleaser. Artfully complemented by a refreshing sesame sauce, the flavorful seaweed is an unexpected addition

Chilled greens, dubu, tomato and seaweed

to any summer side dish. Ingredients 1 block brown rice dubu 30g dried miyeok (seaweed) 1 tomato 1 cucumber 100g baby salad greens Sesame sauce 4 large spoons roasted sesame seeds 1 large spoon ginseng powder 1 large spoon ganjang 2 large spoons meat stock 1 large spoon honey 2 large spoons brown rice vinegar 2 large spoons sesame oil ½ small spoon minced garlic Preparation Step 1. Blanch dubu in boiling water, then drain and cut into 4 by 5 cm pieces. Step 2. Soak seaweed in cold water, 10–15 minutes, until soft. Slice into 4 cm strips. Step 3. Using a knife, make a cross on the top of the tomato before blanching in hot water . Remove the tomato’s skin before dicing it into bite-size pieces. Cut the cucumber crosswise. Wash the salad greens and drain. Step 4. Use a mortar to grind the roasted sesame and mix it together with the rest of the sesame sauce ingredients. Step 5. Arrange the dubu, greens, cucumber, tomato and seaweed on a plate, and drizzle with the sesame sauce before serving.

Tasty Story International Korean menu guide

Sharing Summer Treats with People around the World How to Romanize Bibim Naengmyeon (spicy mixed buckwheat noodles) Mr. Simpson is a traveler who is an avid fan of Korean cuisine. Whenever he goes overseas, he always makes a point of visiting a Korean restaurant. He is in love with the bold, distinctive ﬂavor of Korean food. The hard part for Mr. Simpson, however, is ordering the dishes; since each restaurant Romanizes Korean dishes differently, it can sometimes be tricky to spot his favorites on a menu. One important step toward improving awareness of Korean food overseas is ensuring that the names of Korean dishes are Romanized consistently around the world. In every issue of this magazine, we discuss how Korean dishes should be expressed in Roman letters.

French Nouilles froides de sarrasin à la sauce épicée Nouilles de sarrasin froides mélangées à une sauce de piment rouge épaisse. Peut être garni de sashimi de raie assaisonné, de viande, radis ou concombres. Spanish Insalata di vermicelli di grano saraceno piccanti Vermicelli freddi di grano saraceno guarniti con fettine di carne fredda, pesce razza fresco, rafano o cetrioli e mescolati con una salsa gochujang piccante.

{ { bibim naengmyeon

메밀로 만든 면을 삶아 찬물에 헹궈 물 기를 뺀 다음 쇠고기나 홍어회무침, 무, 오이, 삶은 달걀 등을 얹고 고추장 양념장에 비벼 차갑게 먹는 음식이다.

English Spicy Mixed Buckwheat Noodles Chilled buckwheat noodles garnished with cold slices of beef, fresh skate fish, radish or cucumber served with a spicy gochujang sauce for mixing. Japanese ピビムネンミョン（甘辛混ぜ冷麺）ゆでたそばに、肉やホンオフェムチム、大根、きゅうりなどをのせ、スープの代わりにコチュジャンベースの薬味を混ぜて食べる冷麺. Chinese 韩国拌冷面煮熟的荞麦面滤掉水分，与肉丝、生拌魟鱼、萝卜、黄瓜、辣酱拌匀即可.

Italian Fideos de trigo sarraceno picantes mixtos Plato de fideos de trigo sarraceno refrigerados adornado con rodajas de embutidos, peces raya frescos, rábano o pepino y mezclado en seco con una salsa picante gochujang. German Scharfe gemischte Buchweizennudeln Kalte Buchweizennudeln, garniert mit geschnittenem kalten Rindfleisch, frischem Rochen, Rettich oder Gurken und scharfer Gochujang Soße. Vietnamese Mỳ cay trộn làmtừ kiều mạch Mỳ lạnh làm từ kiều mạch trộn với thịt bò, cá đuối thái mỏng, ướp lạnh, củ cải hoặc dưa chuột ăn cùng nước tương gochujang cay. (‫ ءادوسلا ةطنحلا ةنوركعم تاريعش‬Arabic ‫)لباوتلاب‬ ‫رقبلا محل حئارشب ةنيزم ةدّربملا ءادوسلا ةطنحلا ةنوركعم‬ ‫رايخلا وأ لجفلاو درابلا تيكسلا كمسو درابلا‬، ‫متيو‬ ‫ ةصلص عم اهميدقت‬Gochujang ‫لباوتلاب‬.

Cover Story Yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk

Yeonnipbap, or steamed rice in a lotus leaf, a meal that is often served in Buddhist temples, is a healthy dish that is rich in carbohydrates, proteins and fat. According to the Compendium of Materia Medica, an ancient book of Chinese medicine,“ Lotus invigorates the memory and drives away all diseases; if taken consistently, the body becomes lighter and life is extended .”By eating this fragrant concoction of cooked grains wrapped in lotus leaf along with Greentea Oi Naengguk, or chilled greentea and cucumber soup, which helps alleviate of heat rash, it is said that you can regain some of the vitality that was sapped by the summer heat. In this issue’s Ancestral Recipes, learn more about the fragrant summer energy boosters called yeonnipbap and Greentea Oi Naengguk, summer specialties oﬀered at Uiseong Kim family’s Saudang House.