Supply Chain Report America Today

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Supply Chain chain Report

Carmen Guitierrez Ruiz, Eloise Anthony, Federico Sgarlata, Laura Kim Kassin


Table of con 4 6 8

Summary Collection analysis Starting point for this research

Introduction Introduction of research

Management summary Summary of internal research


ntent 10 14

Collection Overview

26

Supply Chain

42 46 48

Critical path analysis

Updated collection overview Research categories

Visual Lifecycle What is a lifecycle? Visual lifecycle per category Alternative materials

Supply chain overview per category Overview logistic costs per category

Flowchart and critical path

Conclusion

Findings and conclusions

Appendix

Sources Digital drawing archive Range plan with calculations


Collection Analysis Vision

Mission

As stated in their webpage, America Today’s current aim is to bring confidence and empowerment to their customers through their products.

Values

Their core values are Independence, Authenticity and fun.

The brand states that they can provide the building blocks to create an effortlessly casual look that can help their clients create a foundation for a lifestyle whereby quality and fun join forces.

America Today is a multi-brand store selling typical American labels like Levi’s, Wrangler, Vans, and Champion. Besides re-selling other brands, the biggest part of their product range consists of various pieces by their own brands “America Today”. The current Fall Winter 2020 collection is composed of 81% of products of America Today’s own line, while the remaining 19% is other brands. America Today successfully represents the American college lifestyle with their current collection. The brand opts for a very clean design with little use of its logo and just some prints. The pieces are basic staples made out of soft comfortable materials that are easy to combine. However, the main focus of the current collection clearly is comfort, whereby individuality and uniqueness are upstaged. America Today recently added a Vintage collection, selling selected, hand-picked vintage pieces directly imported from America. This collection is only available in selected stores and should again reflect the authentic American lifestyle. Besides, it is an attempt to protect the brand's heritage and its origin story.

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The current collection is composed of a wide variety of materials. With a focus on Cotton and Polyester. Due to their American heritage, there is a focus on denim, sweatshirt materials, and flannels.


With their “For Tomorrow“ line, which is best known for their famous raincoats that are made out of recycled plastic bottles, the brand is trying to decrease its environmental impact. However, at the same time, it markets its products with slogans like ”You can never have too many jeans.“, promoting consumerism. Besides, the collection has many blended fabrics, making it hard to recycle them. America Today knows who they are and to whom they want to sell to. The brand has a clear target group and a good marketing plan. Stores are mostly located in urban areas and they advertise themselves well on social media and influencers. The brand is inclusive in its size ranges and fast in delivery times. On the other hand, the original USP of bringing American brands to the Netherlands is clearly no longer valid. Additionally, the brands values are vague and cliche considering the attention its target group gives to these topics. That’s why America Today no longer has a clear brand strategy. By reflecting on the research that has been conducted during the brand and collection Analysis, it is clear that America Today has the opportunity to flourish again and develop other unique selling points. The brand needs to gain a competitive edge over other brands that already sell American brands. Nowadays brands are not anymore just selling a product but also selling an experience. That’s why America Today could implement more experience-driven activities. Some examples could be pop-ups or incorporating bars in stores where like-minded students can gather together. This could help to bring back the sense of community that the brand tries to portray. Fashion nowadays is evolving at a very fast pace, especially among younger audiences. The research conducted clearly shows that to keep the business sustainable, the brand needs to implement changes, preferably in the short-/mid-term. America Today’s priority is to diversify its brand strategy and reconsider the sustainability of its products. Constant adaption is the only way to remain competitive in such a saturated market.

Summary


Introduction 6

The purpose of this research report is to provide readers with an in-depth analysis of America Today’s sourcing strategy and its corresponding lead times, production methods and costs. The goal of this research is to analyse how/ if the current sourcing plan translates the company’s vision, mission and core values and what links there are to connect it with the purpose economy. After this investigation, the information that is gathered will be used to suggest potential developments that have the ability to solve potential issues within the existing sourcing strategy, and also create opportunities for increased profits and help aid social, economical and sustainable advancements. This report will also explore the effect COVID-19 has had on AT’s sourcing and other related factors, in order to possibly solve issues that have arisen during the pandemic crisis.


How are the prices built up?

How does the sourcing plan translate the company’s vision, mission and core values?

Are there potential possibilities to extend AT‘s products life?

Are AT’s products circular?

Can the sourcing process be improved to make it more sustainable?


MAnagement Summary The goal of this report is to provide an in depth analysis of the brands supply chain with a focus on lead times, production methods and costs. In this research, the aim is to analyse if the current sourcing plan of America Today translates the company's vision, mission and core values. Additionally, the theme of purpose economy is going to be investigated in terms of how it is relevant to the brand. The brands collection and sourcing strategy is very influenced by American college lifestyle. In fact brand’s representatives frequently visit American college campuses in order to gain insights and find inspiration from local trends in order to reflect them in their collection. America Today doesn't have a life cycle plan for its garments. The remaining possibility to customers in case they decide to stop wearing a garment are limited: gift it, donate it to a charity, or throw it away. There's a lot of examples in the industry such as Patagonia, that offer more possibilities for life cycles of garments (Worn Wear - Better Than New, 2020). Garments could be refurbished through a repair shop in store through simple adjustments to the piece such as patches. That would both repair holes in a garment but as well make it more personal and give it more of the American lifestyle vibe. The collection is composed of a wide variety of materials. Due to their American heritage there is a focus on denims, sweathershirt materials and flannels. Even considering the darker nature of the season, the brand still decided to keep a very colour diverse collection, with the addition of bright colors as well. Additionally, they opted for very clean design with little use of their logo and just some prints.

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The garments that are analysed in the report are chosen between different product groups and different materials. One thing they have in common is that they are iconic pieces of the brand. After researching it was clear that these garments are part of the NOOS group, never out of stock (KADALIKKATTIL SAJEEVAN, 2020). These garments are characterized by always being brought back every season and they are highly stocked in store. It is also predicted that the brand uses safety stock for these garments (Safety stock, 2020). Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. From the analysis of the costs and margins of the company it can be said that there is room for improvement. The research showed us that presumably America Today has a margin of 60% on their clothes which is higher than the average of the competitors. Although the brand is very present locally with a high number of stores and therefore a lot of costs, the margins could be decreased in order to implement higher quality garments. By higher quality it is meant not only the quality of the fabric itself, but also the sustainability. Sustainable fabrics are known to be more expensive, although the report shows how this choice would only bring benefits to the brand and their image. On the bright side, America Today kept their promises made during the pandemic and managed to pay all the outstanding orders from suppliers, which honors the brand. The brand also kept working on their image with the adaption of snack corners in stores. On the other hand, the newly added “2020 are you kidding me“ collection is quite contradictory to what they stand for. Part of the collection were t-shirts stating “fuck 2020” which is definetely out of touch, even considering the young target audience. As mentioned before America Today currently does not have any life extension strategies for their garments and the approach to sustainability is questionable due to the large use of different fabrics. In conclusion, it can be said that the brand approach only has surface value and does not actually link to the purpose economy as the brand does not follow through on what they say they stand for and believe in.


Collection ov CURRENTLY OFFLINE

Newly added „2020 are you kidding me“ line

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verview

Private line


Other Brands

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SMILEY SM ILEY


The America America The Today look look Today

Knit

50% wool 50% nylon Made in China

Flannel 100% cotton Made in Turkey

Raincoat 100% recycled polyester Made in China

Jeans

83% Organic cotton 15% Polyester 2% Elastane Made in Turkey

In this report we further researched four garments being a raincoat, a knit sweater, a flannel shirt and a pair of jeans belonging to the categories: tops, bottoms and outerwear. These products reflect America Today’s collection not only when it comes to represent the materials used but also the production methods and signature style.


Can clothes last forever? 14


Product Life cycle

What is a product life cycle?

The lifecycle of a product describes the process from product design, fiber production, fabric manufacturing, cutting and trimming, transport, storage and sales, to use and reuse by consumers, and finally to either textile recycling, or waste generation and subsequently landfill or incineration. During this research the finished product was the starting point. Ideally a products lifecycle should be circular which means that after the product has lost its initial function it can be recycled and something new can be created out of the material. However, there are numerous things which make recycling of a product either hard/impossible or unprofitable. One of them being excessive blending of fabrics.

Life extension of a product There are various ways to extend the life of a product even if the material is not recyclable. If it’s broken repairing is an option rather than just throwing it away. Many brands already offer in-house repairing services to promote this process. If the garment doesn’t match the costumer’s style anymore upcycling would be an idea. At this moment America Today offers no life extension program whatsoever. Neither do they promote to repair or value garments. Quite the reverse – with slogans like “You can never have too many jeans” they promote buying more rather than less and conscious. So, at this moment it is solely up to the customer what happens with the garment after purchase. However, in our purpose driven economy it is crucial to support the costumer in those decisions. Customers don’t want to buy just garments – they want to feel good about what they buy and make an impact with their buying decisions.


Life cycle

Knit

Customer purchases sweater in store or online

Cutomer wears sweater until it either no longer functional and/ no longer fits their style

New sweater just stocked on shelves at AT stores

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Since the jumper is a made out of a blend of wool and nylon it is hard to recycly.

Sweater gets transported to local landfill Customer diposes of the sweater by throwing in the trash Customer offers sweater to a friend/family member who would like it

is /or

Customer disposes of garment in (charity)clothing bin

Donated to a charity by customer

Customer donates/sells sweater to thrift or vintage shop

New happy owner!


Life cycle

Jeans

Customer purchases jeans in store or online

Cutomer wears jeans until they are either no longer functional and/or no longer fit its style

New jeans just stocked on shelves at AT stores

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Jeans get transported to local landfill

The 10% polyester and 2% elastane which this garment is composed of makes the process of recycling very difficult, if not impossible.

Customer diposes of jeans by throwing them in the trash Customer offers jeans to a friend/family member who would like it

Customer disposes of garment in (charity)clothing bin

Donated to a charity by customer

Customer donates/sells jeans to thrift or vintage shop

New happy owner!


Life cycle

Raincoat

Customer purchases raincoat in store or online

Cutomer wears raincoat until it is either no longer functional and/or no longer fits its style

New raincoat just stocked on shelves at AT stores

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Raincoat gets transported to local landfill Customer diposes of the raincoat by throwing in the trash Customer offers raincoat to a friend/family member who would like it

Customer disposes of garment in (charity)clothing bin

Donated to a charity by customer

Customer donates/sells raincoat to thrift or vintage shop

New happy owner!


Life cycle

Flannel

Customer purchases shirt in store or online

Cutomer wears shirt until it is either no longer functional and/ no longer fits their style

New shirt just stocked on shelves at AT stores

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Shirt gets transported to local landfill Customer diposes of the shirtby throwing in the trash Customer offers shirt to a friend/family member who would like it

/or

Customer disposes of garment in (charity)clothing bin

Customer donates/sells shirt to thrift or vintage shop Donated to a charity by customer

New happy owner!


Material

Overview

Materials USed in Current collection

Cotton

Polyester

Organic Cotton

Elastane

Nylon

Recycled Polyester

+ biodegradable, recyclable - production is water intensive - high levels of pesticides and toxic chemicals - often dyed with toxix chemicals + less chemicals used in production process + colouring process GOTS certified - requires more land than regular cotton - natural pesticides can be harmful too - even more water needed for production

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+ durable - production is water intensive - production uses a lot of chemicals - non-biodegradable

+ recyclable - production is energy intensive - production uses a lot of chemicals and oil - sheds microplastic + makes clothes hold their shape longer - production is energy intensive - not biodegradable - polluting + uses less energy to make + saves plastic from landfill - sheds microfibres

Wool

+ biodegradable - contributes to the increase in atmospheric greenhouse gasses - production is water polluting - production uses a lot of land


Material Alternatives Tencel Fabric made from wood pulp which is made with a close loop production process + water used is recycled + fewer chemicals are required during manufacture + trees used are managed under strict regulations

Linen Fabric made from flay plant fibres. + biodegradable + durable + uses less water and pesticides than other natural fibers - has to go through a heavy bleaching process

Econyl Made entirely from synthetic wast which is recycled and regenerated into a new nylon yarn. + recyclable + same quality as virgin nylon + uses less water than traditional nylon production + creates less waste than traditional nylon production - sheds microfibres

Pinatex Leather-like material made from pineapple leaves + completely cradle to cradle, leaves are byproduct of pineapple farming + uses less water than real leather + Does not pollute water, soil or air

Recycling When it comes to recycling pure materials, there are many good options nowadays. Physical or chemical recycling of PET leads to virgin quality PET, and cotton can be processed to regenerated cellulose fibres like viscose or lyocell. However, it is not as easy as that when the fibers are blended, or elastane is added, for example. Recycling technologies for monomaterials do not fit anymore as each textile fibre has its own optimal recycling process and elastane, amongst others, acts as a contaminant. In this case, recycling becomes technically complicated, energy-consuming and expensive and will most likely not become a profitable business.


Supply chain Planning Sourcing Knit

€ - Market research (visit of american campuses, rsearch, ...) - Design process

- Choosing yarn suppliers

€ - Order final yarns (wool, nylon)

- Deciding on sizing (wide size range + color range since it is an AT staple) - Research potential suppliers, factory managers, delivery services - Ensure factories are well managed efficient - Create development matric + tech packs

€ - Salaries and rent

- Choose factory site in China (vertally integrated) - Ensure transparency between company + suppliers (America Today started mapping the most direct suppliers in 2014, getting to know the brand‘s indirect business partners)

€ - Auditing factories/suppliers by thrid party (Amfori BSCI )

€ - Insurance and documents needed

Making

€ - Yarns are delivered to the production factory (in China)

€ - Pattern pieces are knitted with flatbead machine

€ - Yarns are dyed

€ - Pattern pieces are assembled by confection-linking, and finished with ribbing.

€ - Prototypes

€ - Internal and external labelling

- Salesman samples

- Samples are sent to be checked by quality control and development team

€ - Factory receives purchase order and follows production process - vertically integrated process

Delivering € - Done through cargo ship from port of Dailan to port of Rotterdam

€ - Brought by truck to sorting center in Diemen € - Distribution to stores (twice a week)

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€ Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs

€ - Washing € - Final quality control process begins € - Packaging

Returning € - Returns can be made up to 90 days after being received.

- Garments which are not damaged or worn will be replenished on the shop floor for resale


Since the yarn is a made out of a blend of wool and nylon it is hard to recycly.

Nylon is nondegradable. Producing nylon creates nitrous oxide, besides it is a very thirsty process and a very energy-hungry process which contributes to global warming.

Raw material suppliers (Wool, Nylon)

Water containing residual dye, chemicals, and micro-fibres is expelled into water streams untreated.

Yarns are dyed

Spinning Raw materials into yarn

Quality check of the yarns

Assembled by confection linking (fully-fashioned)

Pattern Pieces are knitted (weft knit)

Yarns are sent to manufacturer

Plastic takes decades to decompose, releasing harmful chemicals into the earth

Edges are finished with ribbing

Sweater is washed

Labelling and packaging

CO2 emissions are generated through transport Quality check Final procuct is sent to distribution centre


Overview Log €

Transport costs Planning: Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year Sourcing: Transport of raw materials from sourcing factory to the Chinese Port. Making: Fabrics are delivered from port of Shanghai (main cargo port in China) to the production factory by truck. Delivering: Finished sweater is transported to the Netherlands through the use of a cargo ship from the port of Shanghai to the port of Rotterdam (main port in the Netherlands) - Brought by truck from the port of Rotterdam to sorting centre in Amsterdam (Diemen) - Brought by truck to stores.

Document Costs Documentation of all costs in AT sourcing. Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year. Transport of raw material by sourcing factory to production site in China. Transport of finished Sweater to the Netherlands through use of cargo ship from the port of Shanghai to the port of Rotterdam. Transport by truck from the port of Rotterdam to the sorting center in Amsterdam, Diemen. Transport Insurance. Import costs from transporting goods from China to the Netherlands. Storage costs. Distribution costs.

Transport insurance

AT cannot afford to have one of its most iconic styles going missing or being damaged in transportation. It is because of this reasons that it is highly probable that AT insures the sweater and its relative materials during transportation.

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gistical Costs €

Import duties - Import taxes to get raw material to China. (If not sourced in China) “Imports of goods valued more than US$2500: 0.3464% of the value of the goods plus VAT of 13% - Import taxes from China (in order to receive finished goods to sorting center in Diemen, Nether lands) Clothing goods import tax is usually between 0-12% plus VAT of 21%.

Storage costs It is highly likely that AT uses the “never out of stock” stock control strategy for the basic sweater. Brands tend to use this strategy with the collections most in demand items as they contribute to a major share of the brands incomes. It is also likely that the sweater is part of a continuous all-year-round collection. This way AT always has enough stock in stores and online. It is also sometimes the case that brands use safety stock in combination with this. Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. As this sweater is probably in a storage center all-year round, it is likely that storage costs for this raincoat will be higher than other AT product items.

Distribution costs Restocking stores: AT used to deliveries of stock 4 times a week prior to the pandemic crisis whereas now they receive deliveries 2 times a week. If AT use the NOOS control strategy for the raincoat as can be assumed the brand would, this would mean that the raincoat is getting replenished in stock approx. once/twice a week currently as the raincoat is a part of their all-year-round collection. Online orders: Costs vary depending on shipping destination. It is probably that AT have multiple distribution centers (or delivery partners) within Europe that can deliver orders in countries outside of the Netherlands.

Knit

€ Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs


Supply chain Planning Sourcing

Jeans

€ - Marketing (For tomorrow line)

- Choosing fabric suppliers that offer sustainable materials that can fit the For Tomor row campaign

- Design (tech packs) - Sizing - Research potential suppliers, factory managers, delivery services

€ - Order final fabrics (organic cotton, polyester and elastane)

- Ensure factories are well managed efficient

€ - Salaries and rent € - Insurance and documents needed

- Choosing factory site in Turkey - Ensure transparency between company + suppliers (America Today started mapping the most direct suppliers in 2014, getting to know the brand‘s indirect business partners)

Making € - Warp yarns are dyed in indigo € - Yarns are woven into denim fabric - Check the finished fabrics before delivery to production company - Prototypes

€ - Factory receives purchase order and follows production process

€ - Internal and external € - Packaging

€ - Samples are sent to be checked by quality control and development team

Delivering € - Done through cargo ship from Turkey to the Netherlands € - Brought by truck to sorting center in Diemen € - Distribution to stores (twice a week)

€ Fixed Cost

the dyeing factory to the production factory

labelling

€ - Salesman samples

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€ - Fabrics are delivered from

€ VAriable costs

- Final quality control process begins

Returning € - Returns can be made up to 90 days after being received.

- Garments which are not damaged or worn will be replenished on the shop floor for resale


The 10% polyester and 2% elastane which this garment is composed of makes the process of recycling very difficult, if not impossible.

Elastane and polyester are both synthetic man made and petroleum-based fibres. The chemicals used in their production are highly polluting. Furthermore, these fabrics are the main responsibles of microplastic pollution.

Raw material suppliers (Organic cotton, polyester and elasta-

Water containing residual dye, chemicals, and micro-fibres is expelled into water streams untreated.

Dyeing warp yarns are dyed

Spinning polyester, cotton and elastane into one type of yarn

Fabric waste is generated Weaving yarns into denim

Denim is cut and assembled

Denim fabric is sent to manufacturer

Quality check of the fabrics

Plastic takes decades to decompose, releasing harmful chemicals into the earth

Jeans are stone washed

Hardware applied (zipper, buttons, rivets)

Labelling and packaging

CO2 emissions are generated through transport Quality check Final procuct is sent to distribution centre


Overview Log Transport costs

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Planning: Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year Sourcing: Audits and in-line quality controls - In case the quality controls and audits are conducted by America Today, transport cost incurre. Making: Fabrics are delivered from fabric mill to production factory in Turkey. *Since Turkey is the largest producer of cotton in the world, it can be assumed that the fabric comes from the same country since that reduces transport costs. Delivering: Finished jeans are transported to the Netherlands through the use of a cargo ship from Istanbul (main port of Turkey) to Rotterdam (main port in the Netherlands) - Brought by truck from the port of Rotterdam to sorting centre in Amsterdam (Diemen)

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Document Costs Documentation of all costs in AT sourcing. Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year. Transport of fabrics by truck from fabric mill to production site in Turkey. Transport of finished jeans to the Netherlands through use of cargo ship from the port of Istanbul to the port of Rotterdam. Transport by truck from the port of Rotterdam to the sorting center in Amsterdam, Diemen. Transport Insurance. Import costs from transporting goods from Turkey to the Netherlands. Storage costs. Distribution costs.

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Transport insurance AT cannot afford to have one of its most iconic styles going missing or being damaged in transportation. It is because of these reasons that it is highly probable that AT insures the jeans and its relative materials during transportation.

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gistical Costs €

Import duties - Import taxes from Turkey (in order to receive finished goods to sorting center in Diemen, Nether lands) Clothing goods import tax is usually between 0-12% plus VAT of 21%.

Storage costs AT uses the “never out of stock” stock control strategy for the “Low-impact jeans”. Brands tend to use this strategy with the collections most in demand items as they contribute to a major share of the brands incomes. It is also likely that these jeans are part of a continuous all-year-round collection. This way AT always have enough stock in stores and online. It is also sometimes the case that brands use safety stock in combination with this. Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. As these jeans are in a storage center all-year round, it is likely that storage costs for this raincoat will be higher than other AT product items.

Distribution costs Restocking stores: Restocking stores. AT used to deliveries of stock 4 times a week prior to the pandemic crisis whereas now they receive deliveries 2 times a week. Online orders: Costs vary depending on shipping destination. It is probably that AT have multiple distribution centers (or delivery partners) within Europe that can deliver orders in countries outside of the Netherlands.

Jeans € Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs


Supply chain Planning Sourcing

RAincoat

- Market research (field research, US campus visits twice a year)

€ - Choosing fabric suppliers for recycled plastic (for both inner lining and outer shell)

- Deciding on sizing (wide size range + color range since it is an AT staple)

- Order final fabrics (Recycled PET & Polyurethane)

- Research potential suppliers, factory managers, delivery services

- Fabrics are produced at Repreve factory (company which produces fabrics from recycled plastic bottles)in Reidsville, North Carolina, USA

- Ensure factories are well managed efficient - Create development matrix + Tech packs

- Choosing factory sites (China, Shanghai) - Ensure transparency between company + suppliers

€ - Auditing factories/suppliers by thrid party

- Salaries & Rent

- Insurance & Documents needed

Making

€ - Fabrics are delivered to dying factory (in Shanghai,

China) through use of cargo ship from North Carolina (Port of Wilmington) to the port of Shanghai

€ - Fabric is coated with water repelent finishing - Check the finished fabrics before delivery to production company

€ - Fabrics are delivered from the dyeing factory to the production factory through use of delivery truck

- Factory receives purchase order and follows production process

(Amfori BSCI )

€ - Prototypes are made - Samples are checked by quality control + size spec

€ - Prototypes are sent to Brand rep to be checked by quality control and development team

- Samples are approved (or edited potentially)

€ - Batch manufacturing process begins € - Labelling € - Packaging € - Final quality control + size spec assesment

Delivering

€ - Done through cargo ship from port of Shanghai to port of Rotterdam € - Brought by truck to distribution center/e-commerce warehouse in Diemen (Assuming that their distribution center is nearby AT‘s HQ) -Final quality control check before distribution

€ - Distribution to stores approx. twice a week as it is part of an all-year-round

collection/ Distribution for online orders is done from e-commerce warehouse

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€ Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs

Returning €

- Returns can be made up to 90 days after being received.

- Garments which are not damaged or worn will be replenished on the shop floor for resale


Used as packaging for food or beverages.

Put in recycling bin or dropped at

TRANSPORTED TO REPREVE FACTORY in REIDSVILLE, north carolina, USA PLASTIC IS FILTERED AND CLEANED

Plastic sheet is pressed

FABRIC IS MADE (PET & pOLYURETHANE)

Is spun into yarn

CO2 emissions are generated through transport heavy production process

CMT is applied at production factory i.e. Application of buttons drawstrings etc.

Transport of finished raincoat to NL through cargo ship from port of Shanghai to port of Rotterdam.

PLASTIC IS GROUND UP INTO SMALL PIECES

HEATER MELTS PLASTIC PIECES

Transport of dyed fabrics by truck from dyeing factory to production factory.

FABRIC IS TRANSPORTED from THE REPREVE FACTORY IN REIDSVILLE TO THE PORT OF WILMINGTON, NC, USA THROUGH USE OF TRUCK

Fabric is dyed.

IS TRANSPORTED FROM FACTORY TO AT DISTRIBUTION CENTER/e-commerce center IN DIEMEN

FABRIC IS TRANSPORTED from NC, USA FROM THE PORT OF WILMINGTON Through use of cargo ship TO the port of Shanghai, CHINA

Transport of fabrics by truck from Port of Shanghai to dyeing factory.

Is distibuted to stores/Customers IN BELIGIUM, GERMANY AND THE NETHERLANDS


Overview Log Transport costs

Planning: Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year Sourcing: Transport from REPREVE factory (who produce both the coating fabric and the lining fabric) in Reidsville North Carolina, USA to Port of Wilmington by truck. It is then transported to the Chinese Port. Making: Fabrics are delivered from port of Shanghai (main cargo port in China) to the dyeing factory by truck. Delivering: Finished raincoat is transported to the Netherlands through the use of a cargo ship from the port of Shanghai to the port of Rotterdam (main port in the Netherlands) - Brought by truck from the port of Rotterdam to sorting centre in Amsterdam (Diemen)

Document Costs Documentation of all costs in AT sourcing. Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year. Transport of REPREVE fabrics from factory in North Carolina to port of Wilmington, by use of truck. Transport of fabrics by cargo ship to the Port of Shanghai. Transport of fabrics by truck from Port of Shanghai to dyeing factory. Transport of dyed fabrics by truck from dyeing factory to production factory. Transport of finished raincoat to the Netherlands through use of cargo ship from the port of Shanghai to the port of Rotterdam. Transport by truck from the port of Rotterdam to the sorting center in Amsterdam, Diemen. Transport Insurance. Import costs from transporting goods from USA to China. Import costs from transporting goods from China to Europe (The Netherlands). Storage costs. Distribution costs.

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Transport insurance

After researching REPREVE and their fabrics it is feasible to believe that they are of higher value than those of the average materials AT use in their other products. The added value to the end product (resulting in a larger profit gain). This will be valid justification for AT to pay the extra capital it costs to insure the goods during transport. Not only are the fabrics themselves of high value but also the product itself. AT cannot afford to have one of its most iconic styles going missing or being damaged in transportation. It is because of these reasons that it is highly probable that AT insures the raincoat product and its relative materials during transportation.


gistical Costs €

Import duties - Import taxes from NC (in order to get REPREVE fabric delivered to factory in Shanghai, China) “Imports of goods valued more than US$2500: 0.3464% of the value of the goods plus VAT of 13% - Import taxes from China (in order to receive finished goods to sorting center in Diemen, Nether lands) Clothing goods import tax is usually between 0-12% plus VAT of 21%.

Storage costs It is highly likely that AT uses the “never out of stock” stock control strategy for the iconic raincoat. Brands tend to use this strategy with the collections most in demand items as they contribute to a major share of the brands incomes. It is also likely that this coat is part of a continuous all-year-round collection. This way AT always has enough stock in stores and online. It is also sometimes the case that brands use safety stock in combination with this. Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. As this raincoat is (assumingly) in a storage center all-year round, it is likely that storage costs for this raincoat will be higher than other AT product items.

Distribution costs Restocking stores: AT used to deliveries of stock 4 times a week prior to the pandemic crisis whereas now they receive deliveries 2 times a week. If AT use the NOOS control strategy for the raincoat as can be assumed the brand would, this would mean that the raincoat is getting replenished in stock approx. once/twice a week currently as the raincoat is a part of their all-year-round collection. Online orders: Costs vary depending on shipping destination. It is probably that AT have multiple distribution centers (or delivery partners) within Europe that can deliver orders in countries outside of the Netherlands.

Raincoat € Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs


Supply chain Planning Sourcing

Flannel

- Market research (field research, campus visits, ...)

- Choosing fabric suppliers for cotton

- Deciding on sizing (wide size range +high ration as they are never out of stock)

- Review fabrics with samples

€ - Order final fabrics

- Research potential suppliers, factory managers, delivery services

- Choosing factory sites (Turkey)

- Ensure factories are well managed efficient

- Ensure transparency between company + suppliers

- Create development matrix + Tech packs

€ - Salaries and rent €

- Insurance and documents needed

Making

€ - Yarns are dyed

€ - Fabric is woven - Check the finished fabrics before delivery to production company

- Fabrics are delivered from the mill to the production factory In Instanbul (Turkey)

- Auditing factories/suppliers by thrid party (Amfori BSCI )

- Samples are checked by quality control + size spec

- Batch manufacturing process begins

- Labelling - Reviewing + approach of shipping sample

- Factory receives purchase order and follows production process

Delivering € - Done through trucks from Instanbul (Turkey) to Netherlands € - Brought by truck to sorting center in Helmond (Netherlands) € - Distribution to stores made by Modexpress logistic partner

38

€ Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs

Returning € - Returns can be made up to 90 days after being received.

- Garments which are not damaged or worn will be replenished on the shop floor for resale


Cotton accounts for more than 3% of all the world‘s water consumption used in agriculture. Producing one t shirt demands 2,700 liters, the same amount the average humans drinks in 3 years

Water containing residual dye, chemicals, and micro-fibres is expelled into water streams untreated.

Raw material suppliers (COTTON)

Spinning Raw materials into yarn

Yarns are dyed

YARNS ARE WOVEN TO CREATE CHECKERED PATTTERN

Shirt is cut and assembled

fabrics are sent to manufacturer IN TURKEY

Quality check of the fabric

Plastic takes decades to decompose, releasing harmful chemicals into the earth

garment is washed

trims are added

Labelling and packaging

CO2 emissions are generated through transport

Quality check Final procuct is sent to distribution centre


Overview Log Transport costs

â‚Ź

Planning: Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year Sourcing: Audits and in-line quality controls - In case the quality controls and audits are conducted by America Today, transport cost incurre. Making: Fabrics are delivered from fabric mill to production factory in Turkey. *Since Turkey is the largest producer of cotton in the world, it can be assumed that the fabric comes from the same country since that reduces transport costs. Delivering: Finished shirt is transported to the Netherlands through the use of a cargo ship from Istanbul (main port of Turkey) to Rotterdam (main port in the Netherlands) - Brought by truck from the port of Rotterdam to sorting centre in Amsterdam (Diemen)

â‚Ź

Document Costs Documentation of all costs in AT sourcing. Transport of market researchers to US campuses twice a year. Transport of fabrics by truck from fabric mill to production site in Turkey. Transport of finished shirt to the Netherlands through use of cargo ship from the port of Istanbul to the port of Rotterdam. Transport by truck from the port of Rotterdam to the sorting center in Amsterdam, Diemen. Transport Insurance. Import costs from transporting goods from Turkey to the Netherlands. Storage costs. Distribution costs.

â‚Ź

Transport insurance AT cannot afford to have one of its most iconic styles going missing or being damaged in transportation. It is because of these reasons that it is highly probable that AT insures the jeans and its relative materials during transportation.

40


gistical Costs €

Import duties - Import taxes from Turkey (in order to receive finished goods to sorting center in Diemen, Nether lands) Clothing goods import tax is usually between 0-12% plus VAT of 21%.

Storage costs AT uses the “never out of stock” stock control strategy for the “Low-impact jeans”. Brands tend to use this strategy with the collections most in demand items as they contribute to a major share of the brands incomes. It is also likely that this flannel is part of a continuous all-year-round collection. This way AT always have enough stock in stores and online. It is also sometimes the case that brands use safety stock in combination with this. Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. As this shirt is in a storage center all-year round, it is likely that storage costs for this raincoat will be higher than other AT product items.

Distribution costs Restocking stores: Restocking stores. AT used to deliveries of stock 4 times a week prior to the pandemic crisis whereas now they receive deliveries 2 times a week. Online orders: Costs vary depending on shipping destination. It is probably that AT have multiple distribution centers (or delivery partners) within Europe that can deliver orders in countries outside of the Netherlands.

Flannel € Fixed Cost

€ VAriable costs


Flowcha The flowchart is a visual calendar of your production planning. It combines all the different parts of the supply chain into one visual document. It is a guide throughout the entire production process of each collection and depicts the critical moments that occur. Using a flowchart to layout out the steps involved in manufacturing helps streamline the project, minimizing production lead times.

42

Pa


art & Critical Path analisis

Critical ath analysis


JAN 1 1 ACTIVITY

FEB 3 3

4 4

1 1

Season Code: RESEARCH

1 Trend Research In the US 2 Fabric, prints, & pattern research 3 Color research 4 Collection research DESIGNING 5 Initial fabric selection 6 Initial prints & pattern selection 7 Finalize themes & colors 8 Finalize fabric, print, & pattern selection 9 Assign color codes 10 Send all development items to factory 11 Overseas sourcing trip 12 Sku plan meeting 13 Initial sketch meeting DEVELOPING 14 Recieve first lab dips 15 Recieve first strike offs, knit downs & sew outs 16 Best sellers review from previous spring season 17 Best fabrics review from previous spring season 18 Set sales goal (basic vs. seasonal) 19 Sketches finalized 20 Review all packaging-labels and trimmings 21 Send new artwork for labels/tags to vendors for making 22 Silhouette overview 23 Submit tech packs (with ref #'s only) 24 Finalize first strike offs, knit downs, & sew cuts 25 Collection review (boards) 26 Assign style numbers 27 Name patterns 28 Create master line sheet 29 Submit salesman samples PO's 30 Choose catalog photo samples & submit PO's 31 Recieve 1st protos from vendors and send comments 32 Get initial costings from factory PRODUCTION 33 Finalize all protos and fittings for salesman samples 34 Finalize all lab dips, strike offs, knit downs, sew outs 35 Confirm final costing with vendors 36 Order swatches from vendors for embroidery sew-outs 37 Send swatches for thread matching to colorist 38 Sales samples x-factory 39 Recieve complete salesmen samples 40 Sales meeting 41 Ship samples to reps 42 Samples are approved 43 Batch production order is finalized 44 Garments are produced FINALIZING 45 Catalog concept meeting 46 Catalog layout - first review 47 Catalog layout - final review 48 Catalog photoshoot 49 Place orders for catalogs 50 Catalog arrive 51 Ship catalog to reps 52 Send designer write ups to marketing DISTRIBUITON 53 Shipping to warehouse 54 CHINESE NEW YEAR

PL = Planning MD = Merchandising department P = Production LD = Logistics Department PD = Product Development D = Design

44

2 2

2 2

MARCH 3 3

4 4

1 1

2 2

Summer

3 3

APRIL 4 4

5 5

1 1 Fall

2 2

3 4 3 4

MAY 1 1

2 2

3 3

JUNE 4 4

Winter

1 1

2 3 4 5 2 3 4 5

JULY 1 2 1 2

Seasonal 2020

3 4 3 4

AUG 1 1

2 2

3 3

SE 4 4

1 1

2 2


EPT 3 4 5 3 4 5

OCT 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4

NOV 1 2 1 2

3 4 3 4

Critical Path

DEC 1 1

2 2

3 3

4 5 4 5

DEPARTMENT RESPONSIBLE

1

PL / D

2

PL / D

3

PL / D

4

PL / D

5

D

6

D

7

D

8

D

9

D

10

D

11

PD

12

P / LD

13

D

14

PD

15

PD

16

PD

17

PD

18

PD

19

D

20

MD

21

MD

22

MD

23

PD

24

PD

25

ALL

26

PD

27

D

28

P

29

MD

30

MD

31

D / PD

32

ALL

33

D / PD

34

D / PD

35

MD

36

MD

37

MD

38

MD

39

MD

40

ALL

41

LD

42

ALL

43

PD

44

P

45

MD

46

MD

47

MD

48

MD

49

MD

50

MD

51

MD / LD

52

MD

53

LD P

55

After looking at the data from the critical path analysis it is clear to see that most of the regular collections i.e. S/S & A/W, all follow a similar pattern in terms of production lead times, that being approximately 9 months with very few points of intersection with other collections, this enables AT a smooth flow of production and allows little space for error. However, as a team we felt it necessary to include the seasonal “2020 are you kidding me“ collection in this chart to do a side-by-side comparison as we knew this collection linked to very recent events (garments featured references to the COVID-19 pandemic) , meaning that the collection couldn’t have been made in the usual lengthy time line of 9 months. After placing the data into the graph and making the comparison of this collection to the Summer, Fall and Winter collections it was obvious that this collection did not follow the same pattern. This collection only took 5 months to create in comparison to the average 9. Many activities involving the production of the 2020 seasonal collection were made shorter than average in order to get the collection to market sooner. The summer collection and fall collection would have been interrupted by the creation of this last-minute season. The following activities would be interrupted; Colour research, Collection research Garment production, Shipment to distribution centres Distribution to stores & e-commerce warehouse The production of the seasonal 2020 collection must have been critical to AT in order to cause this many disruptions to the production of their other vital collections. Perhaps this was an attempt to stay relevant and show that the brand is aware of current affairs. But have they truly achieved this by creating this collection? Through decreasing lead times, many production line workers would have been affected. Fast-tracking production could have caused burn-out and a great deal of stress to an already struggling garment production industry as a result of COVID-19. AT may have potentially self-sabotaged themselves through this corporate move, as the company's intentions, once again do not match their actions.


Conclusion

Which improvement opportunities can be identified for america today? After critically analysing America Today’s sourcing strategies we, as a team, have been able to gather a large amount of valuable data, with which we were able to use as a tool to investigate the depths of how/ if the current sourcing plan translates the company’s vision, mission and core values and what links there are to connect it with the purpose economy. At first glance of these components the brand seems to connect its beliefs with its actions well in order to translate to the purpose economy. The brand is aware of current events, and have taken negligible actions accordingly (although actions nonetheless). The brand reached out to suppliers when the COVID-19 pandemic struck and either payed outstanding orders or rescheduled orders and only cancelled orders if they were made less than two weeks before the catastrophic disease struck the news. The brand’s identity still remains a prominent feature when researching AT’s sourcing and it is obvious that this is of utmost importance and priority to the company, which allows for a strong brand recognition and customer loyalty. The company is constantly adapting its brand image in order to appeal to consumers; for example, the addition of a snack area in stores, which sells the famous, typically American candies and snacks. However, we believe that their devotion to developing and improving their image and brand identity may have blind sighted what the company actually says they stand for. For example, after researching the product flowchart (critical path analysis) and observing the rate at which the “2020 are you kidding me“ seasonal collection was produced in comparison to other traditional collections, it was evident to see that this collection was made in the eleventh hour. Despite AT claiming to want to protect production workers (- as seen in the sustainability report), the creation of this collection completely goes against the brands claim. AT saw an opportunity to show brand awareness, and therefore rushed to produce the 2020 collection, although through doing this self-sabotaged themselves. The production of this collection would have put an immense amount of pressure on production line workers in order to cut production activity times in half. This is an industry that is already under a substantial amount of strain due to the current period and AT chose to overlook this.

46

The brands approach to sustainability is also questionable. After doing a material analysis of the collection it is clear to see that the collection unnecessarily mixes multiple fibres together, consequently making the garments much harder to recycle. If the brand really cared for the


environment, why would they do this? We mentioned in this report a few alternatives the company could implement instead. These changes are made possible as the brands current margins allow room for improvements in both product quality and sustainability. It is evident to us that AT needs to invest more time, energy and resources on its products, rather than just the brand itself. This connects with another issue; the brand currently has no life extension strategies for their products. They have addressed the circularity issue by introducing a vintage collection, however, the garments in this collection are shipped from the US, this way the brand is further showing its US roots, but the C02 emissions from the transport of these garments should have been enough for AT to disregard this as an option, and instead perhaps use local garments for the collection instead. As a team we believe that a great way to solve the brands lack of product circularity is to introduce repair workshops. In these workshops, which could be hosted both online and physically, customers can bring their damaged AT garments to the classes to repair them themselves through the use of an easy-to-use, but traditionally American patch. This way AT have a new product to profit off of (the patch), they do not have to enlist the help of a well-trained seamstress to host the classes (low cost), they allow customers to give more value to their garments as they are now more personal to them (and therefore keep them for longer). This strategy would also allow customers of AT access to socialize with a community of people that are like-minded, which is a major part of the brand essence (creating a community), therefore further supporting their brand identity, all whilst making their products life cycle more sustainable and circular.

As an online customer of AT it is impossible to know where garments are produced currently unless they make a visit to a store to physically see the care labels which include this information, which is now not ideal due to the pandemic. Even if a store visit is made the customer is only able to see the country where the majority of the production of that garment takes place. This is not sufficient information to provide customers with and feels quite non-transparent. Once again this goes against what AT say they stand for that being transparency (as seen in the sustainability report). In conclusion, after assessing and evaluating all of the information we have gained from researching AT’s sourcing plan, it is clear to see that AT must start focusing on its actions going deeper than the surface level. There are many actions that AT made in which we believe the brand should have been more considerate of certain factors involving social and environmental initiatives. It is apparent to us that the brand prioritizes the brand image, but in doing this, they have perhaps overlooked other, vital components that go into making a connection with the purpose economy. We strongly believe that if AT implements our recommendations the brand will overcome these issues as the brands actions will, in truth, reflect their values.


Sources Desk research:

Collection Analysis: Anthony E., Guitierrez Ruiz C., Kassin L., Sgarlata F. (2020), Brand Analysis Report. Management Summary: Wornwear (2020), Worn Wear - Better Than New. [online] Available at: https://wornwear.patagonia.com/ [Accessed 20 November 2020] KADALIKKATTIL S. (2020), Definition And Analysis Of Never Out Of Stock (NOOS) Products At Ellos AB. [online]. Available at: https://odr.chalmers.se/bitstream/20.500.12380/218247/1/218247.pdf [Accessed 20 November 2020]. Wikipedia.org (2020) Safety Stock. [online] Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safety_stock [Accessed 20 November 2020]. Product Lifecycle Lewitt T. (1965), Exploit the Product Life Cycle, Available from: https://hbr.org/1965/11/exploit-the-product-life-cycle [Accessed: 8th November 2020] Nudie Jeans Co. (2020), Repair spots, Available from: https://www.nudiejeans.com/repair-spots [Accessed: 8th November 2020] Mud Jeans. (2020), Doing jeans differently, Available from: https://mudjeans.eu/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xaVl3AoGRyoumKWIAzSvzkvpPcvLPAqvM32dLVu5cd_f2i9EXtBAY0aAnrAEALw_wcB [Accessed: 8th November 2020] AT B.V. (2018), America Today Sustainability Report, Available at: https://www.america-today.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-AmericaToday-Library/default/dw6c2789c7/cms/mvo/MVO-2019.pdf [Accessed: 15th November 2020] The Spruce (2020), “13 Easy Ways to Get Rid of Your Used Clothing” Available at: https://www.thespruce.com/ways-to-get-rid-of-clothes-4138621 [Accessed: 15th November 2020] Purpose economy Salenga M. (2018), Why the Rise of the Purpose Economy Will Change How We Work Forever, Available from: https://www.tbd.community/en/a/why-rise-purpose-economy-will-change-how-we-work-forever [Accessed: 12th November 2020] Material Overview Cotton Theprettyplaneteer (2020), Textiles Ranked by Comfort, Environmental Impact & Animal Cruelty, Available from: https://theprettyplaneteer.com/textiles-ranked-by-comfort-environmental-impact-animal-cruelty/ [Accessed: 17 November 2020] Polyester, Nylon, Elastane Theprettyplaneteer (2020), Textiles Ranked by Comfort, Environmental Impact & Animal Cruelty, Available from: https://theprettyplaneteer.com/textiles-ranked-by-comfort-environmental-impact-animal-cruelty/ [Accessed: 17 November 2020] Wool Peta (2020), Environmental Hazards of Wool, Available from: https://www.peta.org/issues/animals-used-for-clothing/wool-industry/wool-environmental-hazards/ [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Organic cotton Hendriksz V. (2017), 13 brands sign sustainable cotton pledge - but is organic cotton really better?, Available from: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/13-brands-sign-sustainable-cotton-pledge-but-is-organic-cotton-really-better/2017060724755 [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Textile Exchange (2016), Material Snapshot, Available from: https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/TE-Material-Snapshot_Organic-Cotton.pdf [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Recycled polyester Young S. (2019), The real cost of your clothes: These are the fabrics with the best and worst environmental impact, Available from: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/fabrics-environment-fast-fashion-eco-friendly-pollution-waste-polyester-cotton-fur-recycle-a8963921.html [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Recycling fabrics Harmsen P and Bos H. (2020), Textiles for Circular Fashion Part 1: Fibre Resources and Recycling Options, pp. 87-93 Tencel TENCEL™ (2020), about TENCEL™ fibers, Available from: https://www.tencel.com/about [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Linen Newman C. (2020), Material Guide: How Sustainable is Linen?, Available from: https://goodonyou.eco/how-sustainable-is-linen/ [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Myslowworld (2020), How sustainable is linen, Available from: https://myslowworld.com/2019/06/how-sustainable-is-linen/ [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Econyl Carruthers D. (2019), Material Guide: How Sustainable Is ECONYL?, Available from: https://goodonyou.eco/material-guide-econyl/ [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Pinatex Ananas Anam (2017), About Piñatex®, Available from: https://www.ananas-anam.com/ [Accessed: 17th November 2020] Supply Chain & Cost Overview Sourcing Barrie, L. (2017) ‘Breakthrough in recycling fabric blends into new fibers’, Just Style, September 12. Avaiable at: https://www.just-style.com/news/breakthrough-in-recycling-fabric-blends-into-new-fibres_id131640.aspx [Accessed: November 6th, 2020] AT B.V. (2020), CSR Supply chain transparency & responsibility, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/Transparency.html [Accessed: 9th November 2020] CNN Business (2016), The company turning 4 billion plastic bottles into clothes, Avaiable at: https://money.cnn.com/2016/05/16/technology/plastic-boles-fbric-repreve/index.html#:~:text=Repreve%20was%20the%20answer.,brand%20made%20from%20recycled%20materials.&text=Unifi's%20Repreve%20recycling%20center%20is,and%20fabric%20scraps %20get%20deposited. [Accessed: 15th November 2020] AT B.V. (2020), Environment”>”We use recycled polyester, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/Environment.html [Accessed: 14th November 2020] Farias Iribarren, G. (2018) ‘Organic Cotton vs. Recycled Cotton’, December 18. Available from: https://gabrielfariasiribarren.com/en/organic-cotton-vs-recycled-cotton/ [Accessed: November 6th] Wicker, A. (2016) ’Why, Exactly, Is Polyester So Bad For The Environment?’, Ecocult, September 7. Available from: https://ecocult.com/exactly-polyester-bad-environment [Accessed: November 6th]

48


Choosing factory sites Freadman, A. (2019) ‘Where does all the cotton come from?, Sourcing Journal, 23 July. Available from: https://sourcingjournal.com/market-data/cotton-data/world-cotton-124059/ [Accessed: November 9th, 2020] Donaldson, T. (2018) ‘Passport to Denim: A Snapshot of the Global Denim Market’, Sourcing Journal, May 9. Available from: https://sourcingjournal.com/denim/denim-mills/global-denim-market-105089/ [Accessed: November 9th, 2020] Making Simon, M. (2020) ‘Your Beloved Blue Jeans Are Polluting the Ocean - Big Time’, wired.com, February 2. Available from: https://www.wired.com/story/your-blue-jeans-are-polluting-the-ocean/ [Accessed: November 10th] Bulgaria Y (2013), Yana Knitting Factory, Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNxgo9Z4Lb4 [Accessed: 14th November 2020] Kilgus R., Ring W., Hornberger M. (2013), Clothing Technology... from fiber to fashion,Vollmer GmbH & Co Ranson, B. (2020) ‘The true cost of colour: The impact of textile dyes on water systems’, Fashion Revolution, February. Avaiable from: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/the-true-cost-of-colour-the-impact-of-textile-dyes-on-water-systems/ [Accessed: November 10th] Prototype Process Brier, S. (2012) “Blue is the new black” , pg. 135, 156 Brier, S. (2012) “Blue is the new black” , pg. 150 Labelling Rauturier, S. (2020) ’Eco-Friendly Packaging Is in Fashion: What Does It Mean and What Are Your Options?’, Good on yo, April 6. Avaiable at: https://goodonyou.eco/eco-friendly-packaging/ [Accessed: November 12th] Delivering Mani, B. ‘Warehouse vs Distribution Center – What’s the Difference?’, Supply Chain Minded Wikipedia (2020), North Carolina State Ports Authority, Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/North_Carolina_State_Ports_Authority [Accessed: 15th November 2020] World shipping council (2020), TOP 50 WORLD CONTAINER PORTS, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/stores/diemen-diemermere.html [Accessed: 15th November 2020] Freightos (2020), Shipping Air or Ocean Freight, Available from: https://www.freightos.com/freight-resources/air-freight-vs-ocean-freight-making-the-decision/ [Accessed: 15th November 2020] AT B.V. (2020), AMSTERDAM (HEADQUARTERS) GEEN AFHAALLOCATIE, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/stores/diemen-diemermere.html [Accessed: 14th November 2020] Returning AT B.V. (2020), EXCHANGES & RETURNS, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/returns.html [Accessed: 14th November 2020] Import Duties: Belastingdienst (2020), How do I calculate these import taxes? (from organisation to private individual) Available at: https://www.belastingdienst.nl/wps/wcm/connect/bldcontenten/belastingdienst/individuals/abroad_and_customs/receiving_goods_from_abroad/from_organizations_and_companies/how_do_i_calculate_these_import_taxes [Accessed: 14th November 2020] Omondi S. (2017), The World's Top Wool Producing Countries, Available from: https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/the-world-s-top-wool-producing-countries.html [Accessed: 14th November 2020] China Importal (2019), Customs & Taxes When Importing from China: US, EU, Australia & Canada, Available from: https://www.chinaimportal.com/blog/customs-taxes-importing-china-ultimate-guide/ [Accessed: 15th November 2020] Avalara (2020), Chinese VAT rates, Available from: https://www.avalara.com/vatlive/en/country-guides/asia/china/chinese-vat-rates.html [Accessed: 15th November 2020] Flowchart & Critical Path OpsDog Inc. (2020), An Introduction to Manufacturing Process Flow Charts and Workflows, Available from: https://opsdog.com/categories/workflows/production [Accessed: 18th November 2020] AT B.V. (2020), Responsible purchasing practices, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-AmericaToday-Library/default/dw0fe2b2c8/cms/mvo/MVO-2020.pdf [Accessed: 18th November 2020] AT B.V. (2020), SUSTAINABILITY REPORT ADDENDUM 2019, Available from: https://www.america-today.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-AmericaToday-Library/default/dw0fe2b2c8/cms/mvo/MVO-2020.pdf [Accessed: 19th November 2020] Brier, S.(2012) “Blue is the new black” Cost Calculation and Margin Statista. 2016. Apparel Retailers Estimated Profit Margins 2017 Statistic. [online] Available at: <https://www.statista.com/statistics/673929/apparel-retailers-estimated-profit-margins-united-kingdom-uk/> [Accessed 20 November 2020].

Field research: Visiting various stores - product analysis, store analysis Staff Interviews – supply chain, production process Costumer Interviews - brand image

Appendix 50 62 66

Range Plan including price calculations Technical Drawing Archive Assessment form


Range Plan

50



52



54



56



58



60



Digital Drawing archive CURRENTLY OFFLINE

62


SMILEY


64



68



2 A s s e s s m e nt f or m 2 0 2 0 - 2 0 2 1 , S e m e s t e r 3 Class:

Student:

Da

Competences

Criteria

--

Research

Uses both empirical and current literature research in the field of purchasing and production methods. The choices are original and justified using the Harvard method. Critical selection of the research results that are further used in the product The conclusion of the research results is in line with the recommended changes in the procurement strategy. Shows the supply chain of the collection by means of a visual representation according to the criteria set out in the manual. The circular idea is expressed in the collection.

Decision making

Actualisation

Presentation

Reflection

Organisation

The purchasing recommendations are innovative and contribute to the purpose economy. The purchasing process with recommendations is professionally presented, matching the brand's corporate identity. Knows how to answer questions convincingly. Reflects as a team on the criteria set and the choices made. Gives points of improvement for the next phase in the process book. Delivers a product on time according to the set criteria. Students show a balanced and balanced contribution to the product.

Explanation of the grade:

Recommendations /Feed forward:

66


F B& D, S o ur c i n g pl a n

ate:

Lecturer: -

-/+

+

++

Grade: remarks

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17



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