Production plan Plan Report
Carmen Guitierrez Ruiz, Eloise Anthony, Federico Sgarlata, Laura Kim Kassin
4 6 8 10 18 14
Table Summary of sourcing plan Starting point for this research
Introduction Purpose of research
Management summary Summary of internal research
Improvement recommendations Production related advice Textile related advice Advice for community building
Viability of Recommendations Cost implications production Cost implications textiles Cost implications community building
Conclusion
Findings and conclusions
of content 10
Appendix Sources Research survey Textiles Portfolio Prototype tech packs Prototype 2D vs. 3D Eco Cost Calculations Advice Calculations
Sourcing plan Plan
After critically analysing America Today’s sourcing strategies we, as a team, have been able to gather a large amount of valuable data, with which we were able to use as a tool to investigate the depths of how/ if the current sourcing plan translates the company’s vision, mission and core values and what links there are to connect it with the purpose economy. At first glance of these components the brand seems to connect its beliefs with its actions well in order to translate to the purpose economy. The brand is aware of current events, and have taken negligible actions accordingly (although actions nonetheless). The brand reached out to suppliers when the COVID-19 pandemic struck and either paid outstanding orders or rescheduled orders and only cancelled them if they were made less than two weeks before the catastrophic disease struck the news. The brand’s identity still remains a prominent feature when researching AT’s sourcing and it is obvious that this is of utmost importance and priority to the company, which allows for a strong brand recognition and customer loyalty. The company is constantly adapting its brand image in order to appeal to consumers; for example, the addition of a snack area in stores, which sells the famous, typically American candies and snacks. However, we believe that their devotion to developing and improving their image and brand identity may have blind sighted what the company actually says they stand for. For example, the alarming rate at which the 2020 collection was produced showed a disregard to garment worker well-being, those of which are already under immense pressures due to COVID-19. The brand also goes against its sustainability claims by mixing multiple fibres together making its garments almost impossible to recycle. The brand has also made no effort in making its products circular. The company’s vintage collection is an oxymoron as despite allowing lifecycle extension for the garments in this collection none of the garments have
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been sourced locally and instead were shipped from the US which would require large amounts of C02 emissions. Transparency was also an issue we occurred when it came to researching AT. As an online customer of AT it is impossible to know where garments are produced currently unless they make a visit to a store to physically see the care labels which include this information, which is now not ideal due to the pandemic. Even if a store visit is made the customer is only able to see the country where the majority of the production of that garment takes place. This is not sufficient information to provide customers with and feels quite non-transparent. As a team we believe that a great way to solve the brands lack of product circularity is to introduce repair workshops. This strategy would also allow customers of AT access to socialize with a community of people that are like-minded, which is a major part of the brand essence (creating a community), therefore further supporting their brand identity, all whilst making their products life cycle more sustainable and circular. In conclusion, after assessing and evaluating all of the information we have gained from researching AT’s sourcing plan, it is clear to see that AT must start focusing on its actions going deeper than the surface level. There are many actions that AT made in which we believe the brand should have been more considerate of certain factors involving social and environmental initiatives. It is apparent to us that the brand prioritizes the brand image, but in doing this, they have perhaps overlooked other, vital components that go into making a connection with the purpose economy. We strongly believe that if AT implements our recommendations the brand will overcome these issues as the brands actions will, in truth, reflect their values.
Summary
Introduction 6
The purpose of this report is to present the ideal operational approach for America Today. After extensive research on the brand’s internal operations and production practices, we have gained knowledge to suggest developments for a renewed strategy that could potentially increase, not only America Today’s profit, but also its social and environmental impacts. The advice is evaluated and justified through the calculation of environmental and production costs, using the true cost accounting system. The goal of this research is to update America Today’s production plan, through providing recommendations regarding production methods, use of materials and consumer experience. As advisors, the proposed innovations and improvement opportunities included in this report will potentially aid America Today to stay up-to-date and create more meaningful products. Thus, allowing America Today to reconnect with the purpose economy and reignite the purpose behind the brand values.
How can The brand connect it‘s actions to what they believe in?
What are possibilities to extend the Brands product‘s life?
How can the Company‘s Unique selling point be revitalized?
How can the Brand connect with the purpose economy?
How can the brand limit it‘s environmental impact?
MAnagement Summary
The goal of this report is to provide an in depth analysis of the brands supply chain with a focus on lead times, production methods and costs. In this research, the aim is to analyse if the current sourcing plan of America Today translates the company's vision, mission and core values. Additionally, the theme of purpose economy is going to be investigated in terms of how it is relevant to the brand. The brands collection and sourcing strategy is very influenced by American college lifestyle. In fact brand’s representatives frequently visit American college campuses in order to gain insights and find inspiration from local trends in order to reflect them in their collection.
NEEDS TO B
America Today doesn't have a life cycle plan for its garments. The remaining possibility to customers in case they decide to stop wearing a garment are limited: gift it, donate it to a charity, or throw it away. There's a lot of examples in the industry such as Patagonia, that offer more possibilities for life cycles of garments (Worn Wear - Better Than New, 2020). Garments could be refurbished through a repair shop in store through simple adjustments to the piece such as patches. That would both repair holes in a garment but as well make it more personal and give it more of the American lifestyle vibe.
The collection is composed of a wide variety of materials. Due to their American heritage there is a focus on denims, sweathershirt materials and flannels. Even considering the darker nature of the season, the brand still decided to keep a very colour diverse collection, with the addition of bright colors as well. Additionally, they opted for very clean design with little use of their logo and just some prints.
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The garments that are analysed in the report are chosen between different product groups and different materials. One thing they have in common is that they are iconic pieces of the brand. After researching it was clear that these garments are part of the NOOS group, never out of stock (KADALIKKATTIL SAJEEVAN, 2020). These garments are characterized by always being brought back every season and they are highly stocked in store. It is also predicted that the brand uses safety stock for these garments (Safety stock, 2020). Safety stock ensures that stock never drops below a certain amount. This way the brand can control stock levels no matter how much the levels of demand fluctuate. From the analysis of the costs and margins of the company it can be said that there is room for improvement. The research showed us that presumably America Today has a margin of 60% on their clothes which is higher than the average of the competitors. Although the brand is very present locally with a high number of stores and therefore a lot of costs, the margins could be decreased in order to implement higher quality garments. By higher quality it is meant not only the quality of the fabric itself, but also the sustainability. Sustainable fabrics are known to be more expensive, although the report shows how this choice would only bring benefits to the brand and their image.
BE FILLED IN
On the bright side, America Today kept their promises made during the pandemic and managed to pay all the outstanding orders from suppliers, which honors the brand. The brand also kept working on their image with the adaption of snack corners in stores. On the other hand, the newly added “2020 are you kidding me“ collection is quite contradictory to what they stand for. Part of the collection were t-shirts stating “fuck 2020” which is definetely out of touch, even considering the young target audience. As mentioned before America Today currently does not have any life extension strategies for their garments and the approach to sustainability is questionable due to the large use of different fabrics. In conclusion, it can be said that the brand approach only has surface value and does not actually link to the purpose economy as the brand does not follow through on what they say they stand for and believe in.
Production relat advice Extending a products life
What do you do if one of your garments is damaged? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
In order to get a deeper understanding of what America Today customers do when one of their garments is broken, we created a customer research survey. (p.28)
Would you buy signature America Today pieces from an in-store vintage section? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
Would you bring back the old America Today garments you don’t wear anymore in exchange for a voucher? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
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The findings of our survey showed, that a lot of people want to fix their garments when they are broken. However, every other customer mentioned that they would either give it to their mom or get it fixed.
ted
To simplify the repairing process, we came up with the idea of patches. These would be available to purchase at AT stores. In addition, repairing workshops encourage customers to find creative solutions and customize their patches.
Other common answers were that customers would go back to the store or simply just throw it away – which of course is the worst-case scenario. To prevent that from happening our second suggestion would be to allow customers to bring back old AT pieces – whether damaged, or not. AT could then resell the garments in their Vintage section. AT currently sell a vintage collection in store. We believe that through selling Dutch vintage goods as opposed to American vintage will not only be better for the planet but will also be more economical.
€ Brings the brand money
€ Costs the brand money
1.
2.
€
Customer purchases product in store or online
Customer diposes of garment by throwing in the trash
Customer wears garment until it’s either slightly demaged or doesn’t match it’s style anymore.
3.
3. Customer brings back garment to AT store. Which allows the brand to controll the afterlife of their products.
Customer receives a voucher in return. Depending on product category and condition between 10-20%
€
€
Customer attends (online) fixing workshops where he can make friend and find creative ideas to fix garments.
Garment is given a new lifecycle/extension of life
€
Vintage
Customer is not sure if he will need a new product and receives a share of retail price once the old item is resold.
€
Customer purchases repairing patch in AT stores or online
€
€ €
Garment is resold in in-store Vintage section. Customer can wear item again!
New happy owner!
Customer fixes the garment using the patch.
Patches
Vintage section
– Allows AT to profit off of a new product – Extends the lifecycle of the garment it is applied to – Allows customers to personalize their garments, resulting in the users feeling more attached to the product. (Maplewave Company, 2020)3 – Will add a sense of community – Makes easy, time & cost-efficient repairs (see p. 16) – Fairly cheap. (see p. 16)
– Prevents vintage garments from being sent from the US to the Netherlands which (= less eco cost) – AT can sell garments to customers twice. – Renews the lifecycles of previous AT collections
PRO
Con
– AT has to go through the process of manufacturing, designing and distributing a new product.
PRO
– Items need to be washed and potentially redesigned a bit. – Garments aren’t directly from the US which make them more attainable.
Con
Textiles related advice More sustainable fabrics & limited use of trimmings
i.e. use of recycled cotton for jeans & no mixing of fabrics
Would you consider yourself environmentally aware? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
When it comes to recycling America Today’s garments one of the main problems at the moment is that the brand uses excessive amounts of trimmings and mixes different fibers within its materials. In the pair of jeans, whose production process was detailly examined (E. Anthony, C. Guitierrez Ruiz, F. Sgarlata, L. Kassin, 12/2020, Sourcing Plan Report) three fibers are mixed in one fabric. Additional trimmings like eyelets, the zip and buttons make the recycling process even harder because sorting textiles into different fibers and material types by hand is labor
83% Organic cotton 15% Polyester 2% Elastane
No excessive blend of fibers within one material
Pro
Using overstock fabrics and recycled materials from items costumers bring in (see p.11)
- Makes the brand seem more environmentally aware which adds value to their products and brand identity. - Limited use of trimmings makes their products easier to recycle. - Recycled cotton could be used from dead-stock from previous collections.
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Con
Limited use of trimmings
- The use of new fabrics would alter production which could mean potentially changing production partners which will be time consuming and expensive process. - Recycled cotton is more expensive - Higher Price
The recycled denim which we examined as part of our textiles research (see p. 34) is a perfect example of how an alternative fabric choice could look like. Not only does it match AT style, but it only uses one fiber, that being recycled cotton. As a tool to answer the question if recycled cotton is better than ordinary cotton, we adduced the report by the MIT Sloan School of Management (C. Li-Carrillo, W. Porter Orr, P. Ford, B. Nadella, 2016) which investigates the benefits of using recycled cotton for the brand Gap as opposed to non-recycled as the latter option causes both environmental and social issues. The mentioned report distinguishes three issues with the implementation of recycled cotton within the brand that being; Additional Logistical Requirements, Strategic Relationships with Cut/Sew, Mill, and Recycling Vendors & Consumer Behavior Towards Recycled Cotton. The report concludes that despite in the short term this will cause issues including “costs to rise, reduce profit margins, and add organizational complexity.” that in the long term “recycled cotton could provide a new source for cotton fabric, enhance brand reputation, and minimize downside risk associated with fast-fashion trends in the current marketplace.”
Updated jeans
Current jeans
100% recycled cotton
83% Organic cotton 15% Polyester 2% Elastane
Through the relaxed fit and the scrunched up denim waistband there is no need of metal trimmings.
Community Buildin Revitalizing AMerica today‘s USP
The research from our Collection Analysis Report (E. Anthony, C. Guitierrez Ruiz, F. Sgarlata, L. Kassin, 10/2020) showed that America Today lost its original unique selling point, that being selling exclusive American brands in the Netherlands. Due to the current accessibility of the American brands America Today sells, this doesn’t give them any competitive advantage anymore so the brand doesn’t have a strategy that could diversify them from others. We believe that if America Today revitalizes what they once stood for (selling niche brands and creating community) the brand can sustain in such a saturated market.
Selling niche Brands
Short - term recommendation (due to COVID19):
If AT starts selling unique, niche brands again, which are hard to get in the Netherlands the brand instantly created a new pull factor to its stores. Besides there original USP would be revitalized. Through pop-up events the brands can be launched which underlines America Today’s brand values even more, by connecting like-minded people.
The brands can be launched virtually for the time being. For example, through the use of Instagram live Once stores are re-opened the pop-up can function through the use of limiting numbers/ invitations to the pop-ups. For example through an Instagram give-away customers can upload a picture with the hashtag “America Today” for the chance to win an invitation to the exclusive launch of a new partnering brand.
What brands should AT work with?
Niche independant brand
No Stores in the EU yet
Currently High shipping rates/taxes to EU
Sustainable bio-based, recycled fibres, natural botanical dyes
After thorough research we as a team believe that the brand Pangaia will be very well suited to AT. Not only does this brand fulfil all the mentioned factors but they will also help to improve AT image in terms of sustainable awareness. The brands co-founder Jaden Smith we also believe embodies the essence of AT. Someone who is young, athletic, trendy and of American nationality. The brands “looks set to be the first fashion company truly tackling this chal-
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lenge (sustainability), from the bottom up”. (B. Roberts-Islam, 2019)
© The Pangaia, 2020
ng
Building community
Repair workshops (In store/online) Pop-up events to launch new niche brands
In - store study areas with vending machines
Connecting like-minded people
Niche brands
Study area
PRO
PRO
– Redefines America Today’s USP – AT can learn from production processes of more sustainable brands they resell. – Differentiates AT from direct competitors.
Con
– May distract attention and capital away from their own collection which it seems like they want to push. – Less profit can be made on wholesale garments as opposed to retail.
– Allows the brand to connect deeper with their consumers as they are creating a space in which they can share common interests with other fellow customers of AT (mainly students). This will connect the brand again with their brand identity. – Fairly inexpensive to create (see next page) – Due to the pandemic this area of the store may not be able to be used/ use may be limited. – Some costs are associated
Con
Viability Production
development and production of 5 patch styles
design
Costs
+ 8,45h
Patches Price calculation
€1.03 * 1,60* 1,20 = 1,99 Production cost/ unit
Mark-up
VAT
retail price
Advertising costs As we have previously identified it seems AT predominately advertise its products online. Therefore we have chosen to research the costs associated with online advertising. AT is considered as a relatively small business. (Dan Shewan (2020) Therefore we estimate that they will spend between €7000-€8000 on online advertising each month already. Assuming that this patch will attribute only to a small amount of profit for the company we have designated this product with having access to approximately 10% of this budget as it is a new product. 10% of this budget equates to anywhere between €700-€800 of spending each month on marketing.
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= 17d 8h 17-19d
manufacturing
Costs Bringing back garments With a 60% margin we can assume there is flexibility of at least 10-20%. We would recommend a 20% share of the profit that the resale of the garment makes for customers who bring in their old garments as this will entice the customer much more and make them more likely to bring in their old garments. (Thijs de Valk, 2016) *This will of course vary on the quality of the second-hand garments that they bring in. Perhaps if the garments are badly damaged they can be used to produce recycled materials for the brand in which case the customer will only receive 10% of the profits. (Americommerce, 2020) If a cutomer is sure he wants to purchase at AT today again, he can also opt for a voucher which he will receive immediately instead of a share that is paid-out once the item is sold.
For detailed calculations see p.56
Viability Textiles The renewal process that fabric must go through before it can be re-used is extensive both in time and capital. (Cotton Works (2018)
€€ Recycled Cotton is more expensive
Direct comparison of cotton calico pricing:
Regular cotton p/m
Recycled cotton p/m
€2.01
€5.62
MAking recycled fabrics more appealing
100% recycled cotton ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY
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Research shows that garments being labeled as “recycled” often are not associated with it being more sustainable. People generally react better and are more likely to purchase a garment being labelled as “natural” or “environmentally-friendly” (Cotton Works (2018), thus an implementation of the mentioned terms will substantiate the use of recycled materials even more.
Would you pay a slightly higher price for garments if you knew that they were made more sustainably? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
Concluding Even though recycled materials are more expensive, customers are willing to pay a higher price in exchange for a more sustainable product. Especially in our purpose driven economy people don’t want to buy any product, they want to feel good about what they buy. More than 85% of millennials correlate their purchasing decisions to the responsible efforts a company is making. (Salenga M., 2018) Therefore it is essential that America Today doesn’t only tackle sustainability on surface level, but actually implement changes. Implementing our advice would be a step towards achieving this goal.
Viability Community
Would you use an in-store study area if America Today would provide one?
Building
Would you attend pop-ups if America Today were to host them for new brands that join the company? Results of research survey (see p. 28)
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Results of research survey (see p. 28)
Study Area We made the decision to use vintage furniture for the cost calculation of the implementation of study areas in AT stores. Using vinatge furniture would not only match the brand‘s aesthetics and safe money, but also reinforce the brands move to a more sustainable way of operating.
Implementation of study areas in their flagship stores i.e. 5 stores:
+ 30x
€25/pcs.
€60/pcs.
+ 10x
lend
= €1350 5x
Selling niche brands We believe that if AT are to buy from a niche brands they should do a deal with the company to fist trial the brand in its flagship stores before they decide to continue the partnership and buy more stock as a way of lowering the risk associated with this recommendation. For example; start off with letting 50 units at a rate of 20% and then paying the full amount only once all garments are sold. If AT are to implement this strategy they can trial out a wider variety of brands to see which brands work with their target consumers and which don’t and no risks are involved.
= €740.50 50x *initial costs
For detailed calculations see p.56
Con clusion How can America Today survive in our purpose driven economy? After critically analysing America Today’s brand, its collections, its values and its actions; we were able to see that the company needed a refresh. With its USP no longer being valid, its values and their corresponding actions lacking significance and their inability to make a strong connection with the purpose economy, it was likely that this brand was going to struggle to survive. However, we as a team believe that the true essence of the brand is indispensable. We believe that through reconnection with its community, product innovation and implementation of a more sustainable mindset throughout all America Today departments, that the brand can continue to not only survive the current fashion climate but surpass its previous successes and competitors.
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The brand set out to provide clothing to a community of people who were inspired by the American college lifestyle and, in doing so, unite them and create a feeling of authenticity and fun for all those who choose to buy with the brand. We believe that our recommendations strongly reflect this component of the brand identity and who they say they are and what they believe in. Hence our inclusion of the category “Community Building”. We have also further connected the brand with the purpose economy through both of the recommendation categories “Materials” and “Production”. We believe a powerful way of making a connection with this principle is through sustainability. As a team we consistently kept in mind the importance of this factor and have effectively corrected current issues in within AT’s operations. For example, in terms of product life extension; we came up with the solution of patches and an altered vintage collection. The essence and core of AT will not be removed but simply edited and improved in order to meet the demands of the growing number of eco-conscious consumers (which we have proved are in AT’s target market group after conducting the secondary research survey). We have also been able to renew AT’s original USP. That being to exclusively sell American brands in the Netherlands. Although they will never be the only store in the Netherlands selling American brands again, they will have a competitive edge once more which we believe will increase market share of the Dutch fashion retail market. In conclusion, after thoroughly assessing the advice we have provided and its corresponding costs, implications and benefits we strongly believe that the advantages of the recommendations far surpass the limitations. If AT are to implement our recommendations the brand will overcome their issues as the brands actions will, in truth, reflect their values. We are aware that none of these suggestions are particularly contemporary but we stand by the fact that our recommendations will not only solve current issues but will open up new opportunities.
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Appendix 26 28 32 36 48 54 56 58
Sources Research survey Partial Textiles Portfolio Prototype tech packs Prototype pictures/ 2D vs. 3D Eco Cost Calculations Advice Calculations Assessment form
Sources Recommendations Production Hero’s Pride, How long does it take to manufacture a custom patch? Available from: http://www.herospride.com/FAQ-Patch#:~:text=Custom%20Patch%20manufacturing%20time%20is,days%20if%20new%20to%20us [Accessed 10th January 2021] Patch superstore, Wholesale patch pricing Available from: https://patchsuperstore.com/wholesale-pricing/ [Accessed 10th January 2021] Jogdenim Casper Available from: https://www.america-today.com/en-nl/jogdenim-casper-1112002002+350.html [Accessed 10th January 2021] Dan Shewan (2020), The Comprehensive Guide to Online Advertising Costs Available from: https://www.wordstream.com/blog/ws/2017/07/05/online-advertising-costs [Accessed 10th January 2021] Americommerce (2020), The Top 10 Most Popular Types of Sales Promotions Available from: https://www.americommerce.com/the-top-10-most-popular-types-of-sales-promotions [Accessed 10th January 2021] Thijs de Valk (2016), The Phycology of discounts Available from: https://yoast.com/psychology-discounts/ [Accessed 10th January 2021] Textiles E. Anthony, C. Guitierrez Ruiz, F. Sgarlata, L. Kassin (2020) Sourcing Plan Report. Available from: https://issuu.com/theworldprocessbook/docs/2eigroup16reportsupplychainamericatoday Accessed 18th Janurary 2021 Abigail Beall (2020), Why clothes are so hard to recycle. Available from: https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200710-why-clothes-are-so-hard-to-recycle [Accessed 18th Janurary 2021] Carla Li-Carrillo, William Porter Orr, Patrick Ford, Bhanuteja Nadella (2016) MIT Sloan School of Management, Strategies for Sustainable Business Final Report, Recycled Cotton for Gap Inc Available from: https://mitsloan.mit.edu/sites/default/files/inline-files/Gap-ReAport-2016.pdf [Accessed 10th January 2021] Wikipedia, Cotton recycling (2020) Available from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cotton_recycling [Accessed 10th January 2021] ADKN, 100% Recycled Cotton Calico Fabric Thick/Heavy Available from: https://adkn.co.uk/products/recycled-cotton-calico-fabric-thick-heavy?gclid=CjwKCAiAl4WABhAJEiwATUnEFxm0TgQp1cL0SjseapPvKyYcwBRwbOX6meST22QVh9M88Z6-_4laNBoC6BQQAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=gs-2020-08-31&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_medium=sm art_campaign&utm_source=google&variant=37937073488065 [Accessed 10th January 2021] Fabricland, Calico Cotton Fabric Available from: https://www.fabricland.co.uk/product/calico/ [Accessed 10th January 2021] Cotton Works (2018), Recycled cotton Available from: https://www.cottonworks.com/topics/sustainability/cotton-sustainability/recycled-cotton/ [Accessed 10th January 2021] Salenga M. (2018), Why the Rise of the Purpose Economy Will Change How We Work Forever, Available from: https://www.tbd.community/en/a/why-rise-purpose-economy-will-change-how-we-work-forever [Accessed: 12th November 2020] Community Building Brooke Roberts-Islam, Forbes (2019), This Startup Is Reshaping What It Means To Be A Sustainable Fashion Brand, From Materials Through To Products Available from: https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2019/12/05/this-startup-is-reshaping-what-it-means-to-be-a-sustainable-fashion-brand-from-materials-through-to-products/?sh=214fc3cc732f [Accessed 13th January 2021] E. Anthony, C. Guitierrez Ruiz, F. Sgarlata, L. Kassin (2020) Collection Analysis Report. Available from: https://issuu.com/theworldprocessbook/docs/2eigroup16reportamericatoday Accessed 18th Janurary 2021 Pangaia (2020), Where can I buy Pangaia products? Available from: https://pangaia.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013444958-Where-can-I-buy-PANGAIA-products[Accessed 13th January 2021] The Pangaia, (2020) Hoodie Stone. Available from: stonehttps://thepangaia.com/collections/women-hoodies/products/recycled-cotton-hoodie-stone [Accessed 18th Janurary 2021] Anne GaffiÊ, Lofficiel (2020), Pangaia Is The Sustainable Fashion Brand Taking Over Instagram Available from: https://www.lofficielsingapore.com/fashion/pangia-life-size-fashion [Accessed 13th January 2021]
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Harpers Bazar (2020), Meet Pangaia, The Eco-Friendly Fashion Label Taking Over Instagram Available from: https://www.harpersbazaar.com.sg/fashion/pangaia-eco-friendly-fashion-label-instagram/ [Accessed 13th January 2021] Scarlett Conlon, Vogue (2020), Pangaia, Young Hollywood’s Favourite Loungewear Label, Comes With Superlative Sustainable Credentials Available from: https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/pangaia-sustainable-loungewear-brand [Accessed 13th January 2021] Carolyn M.Brown, Black Enterprise (2016), New Opportunities in retail, pop-up shops, and franchises Available from: https://www.blackenterprise.com/new-opportunities-in-retail-pop-up-shops-and-franchises/#:~:text=The%20build%2Dout%20cost%20for,mortar%20store%20starts%20at%20%2425%2C000 [Accessed 15th January 2021] Popup Insider, Redefining Post Pandemic Retail (2021) Available from: https://popupinsider.com/ [Accessed 15th January 2021] Daniel Keyes, Business Insider, Pop-up shops are paying off for retailers (2019) Available from: https://www.businessinsider.com/pop-up-shops-are-an-effective-retail-tactic-2019-6 [Accessed 15th January 2021] Arianne Cohen, Bloomberg Businessweek, Pop-Up Stores Earn a Permanent Place in Retail Strategy (2019) Available from: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-09-27/pop-up-stores-are-the-next-big-retail-strategy [Accessed 15th January 2021] Marketplaas, Vintage Semal school chairs, industrial dining room chairs '63 (2021) Available from: https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/huis-en-inrichting/stoelen/m1653590047-vintage-semal-schoolstoelen-industriele-eetkamerstoelen-63.html?previousPage=lr [Accessed 15th January 2021] Marketplaas, Desk / table / work table - 150x90xH75 cm - 60 euros / piece Available from: https://www.marktplaats.nl/a/huis-en-inrichting/bureaus-en-bureaustoelen/m1640782527-bureau-tafel-werktafel-150x90xh75-cm-60-euro-stuk.html?previousPage=lr [Accessed 15th January 2021] Full-service Vending machines Available from: https://www.vendinggroup.com/full-service-vending-machines [Accessed 15th January 2021] Eco costs Idematapp.com (2015). [online]. Available at: http://idematapp.com [Accessed: January 10th] Greentripper.org (2021). ‘Calculate and compensate your CO2 emissions’. [online]. Available at: https://www.greentripper.org/en [Accessed: January 2nd] Bettercotton.org. ‘Where is Better Cotton Grown? > Turkey’ [online]. Available at: https://bettercotton.org/where-is-better-cotton-grown/turkey/ [Accessed: January 2nd] Chinabrands.com (2018). ‘8 Best Clothing Manufacturers in Turkey (Factories with Low MOQ)’ [online]. Available at: https://www.chinabrands.com/dropshipping/article-best-clothing-manufacturers-in-turkey-15593.html [Accessed: January 2nd] GoogleMaps, Available at: https://www.google.nl/maps [Accessed: January 2nd] Weihua, M. (2020). ‘Xinjiang still China’s largest cotton producer in 2019’. China Daily, August 1. Available from: https://www.chinadaily.com.cn/a/202001/08/WS5e156c70a310cf3e3558336b.html [Accessed: January 13th, 2020] Searates.com (2005) ‘Distances & time’ [online]. Available at: https://www.searates.com/es/services/distances-time/ [Accessed: January 13th] Jinlite.com. ‘About us: Fuzhou Jinlite dress’. [online]. Available at: http://www.lijinte.com/plus/list.php?tid=1 example of manufacturer in China specialized in raincoats [Accessed: January 13th]
America Today Research Survey 15 responses - All male, real-life America Today customers
Would you consider yourself environmentally aware? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
Yes
93.3% / 14 resp.
No
6.7% / 1 resp.
Would you buy signature America Today pieces from an in-store vintage section? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
28
Yes
93.3% / 14 resp.
No
6.7% / 1 resp.
Would you bring back the old America Today garments you don’t wear anymore in exchange for a voucher? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
Yes
100.0% / 15 resp.
No
0.0% / 0 resp.
Would you pay a slightly higher price for garments if you knew that they were made more sustainably? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
Yes
73.3% / 11 resp.
No
26.7% / 4 resp.
Would you use an in-store study area if America Today would provide one? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
Yes
73.3% / 11 resp.
No
26.7% / 4 resp.
Would you attend pop-ups if America Today were to host them for new brands that join the company? 15 out of 15 answered
1
2
Yes
86.7% / 13 resp.
No
13.3% / 2 resp.
What do you do if one of your garments is damaged?
"Try to get it fixed" "give it to my mom, she can fix it!" "Try to get it fixed. Otherwise dispose" "Try to repair it myself" "Go back to the store" "Go back to the store" "Keep using it" "Throw it away" "Throw it away" "I would repair It or if its too bad just throw It away"
"Try to fix it" "Mostly leave it" "Repairing it myself" "Give it to my mum"
What do you think about a patch like this which you could iron on to easily fix your garment if it was damaged?
"like the idea for jackets"
"I like the idea! Its innovative and easy to use."
"Not my thing..."
"I dont know"
"Nice idea. Would make the repairing process easier"
"Yes, I like that!"
"Thats cool"
"I’d do it, if it matches the garment"
"Its cool"
"Perfect solution"
"Really cool and nice"
"Looks good"
"Would look very cool"
"cool idea, gives me an American vibe"
"Not sure about letters but other type of patch with a solid square colour or maybe image could be cool"
302
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Prototypes
49
2d/3D comparison Very Similar back view
Perfect placement of pockets
reflection
Creating a prototype in 3D was very challenging but still rewarding in the end. It all started with each member of the group creating 5 different variations of each garment. Once we had them ready we had a zoom call in which we presented them and chose which features we liked the most from each variations. We then proceeded creating a first virtual prototype with the features we liked the most. From then it was a matter of working with the finishes so for example which type of collar, how much big the pockets should be, which buttons etc. In terms of the fabrics we already had a fabric swatch that we wanted to use. From there on we just had to select the same one in the fabric library. In terms of the pattern, in this case, we just had to upload the pattern on the fabric properties and the software recreated it perfectly. Subsequently, we printed the pattern pieces and proceeded to sew the prototype in calico fabric. By being careful in using the same seam allowances as in the 3D, the garment came out nearly as expected. The shirt didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t come out
Sleeves are too short since arms are longer in real life
perfectly because there has been some miscalculations in the length of the arms of the avatar which made the sleeves of the physical prototype too short. The rest was spot on. In conclusion, it can be said that producing a prototype in 3D is definitely a viable solution. Firstly, because of the accuracy of the software meaning that the only errors can be human, as in this case. Secondly, it is advantageous in terms of costs and speed. We worked simultaneously on different variations and then we could come up with a viable look just with the renderings. If this was a real product we wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to order multiple prototypes back and forth with the manufacturer in order to come up with the best design. Last but not least, in terms of emissions, the shipping of multiple prototypes that are never going to be used is an unnecessary expenditure for the environment, especially if the same result can be achieved through Browzwear.
53
Eco costs
Main source for calculations: IDEMAT, 2015 Tool to calculate CO2e of transportation: Greentripper.org (2021). ‘Calculate and compensate your CO2 emissions’. [online]. Available at: https://www.greentripper.org/en [Accessed: January 2nd]
There are 6 sizes that AT offer and the stores need 2 units per size and since the stores receive deliveries 2 times a week we assume that they receive about 10 items per delivery for each store and then we multiplied this amount by 72 (the number of AT stores) the result would be 8640 units per shipment from the production factory which we assume would fill one delivery truck.
Flannel 100% Cotton
Materials weight of shirt: 0,4 kg Cotton - 6,94 kg CO2e per kg 6,94 x 0,4 = 2,77 kg of CO2e Production Pretreatment of cotton - 1,026 kg CO2e per kg Spinning cotton - 2,072 kg CO2e per kg Dyeing - 1,826 kg COe per kg Weaving (70 dtex) - 8,67 kg CO2e per kg Total: 13,594 kg CO2e per kg Flannel - 0,4 kg approximately 13,594 x 0,4 = 5,43 kg of CO2e
Transportation 890,83 km (Çukurova - Izmir) - 229 kg CO2 Izmir - Rotterdam (2308.7 km) 593 kg CO2 (truck) Rotterdam - Diemen (57 km) 15 kg CO2 229 + 593 +57= 879 kg of CO2e 879 / 8640 = 0,1 CO2e per garment Total: 8,3 kg of CO2e 8,3 x 0,116= 0,96 euros per shirt
**Where is cotton in turkey farmed? (Bettercotton, 2018) **Where is the production factory for the flannel? (Chinabrands, 2018) **What is the distance in km from Çukurova (farming location) to Izmir (predicted production factory)? GoogleMaps
JEANS
83% Organic cotton / 15% Polyester / 2% Elastane Materials Organic cotton 3.60 kg of CO2e per kg Polyester 3.38 kg of CO2e per kg Elastane 3.53 kg of CO2e per kg For 1kg of the blend used for the jeans: Cotton - 0,83 x 3.60=2,988 Polyester - 0,15x3.38=0,507 Elastane - 0,02x3.53=0,0706 Total (including resource depletion, eco-toxicity, human health and carbon footprint) 3,5656 -- 3,57 kg of CO2e/ kg of material Production Spinning - 2,762 kg CO2e per kg Weaving - 4.048 kg CO2e per kg Dyeing - 2.434 kg CO2 per kg 9,244 kg of CO2 per kg of fabric
Transportation Izmir - Çuruzova, Çuruzova - Rotterdam, Rotterdam -Diemen 8640 units per shipment (same as flannel) 0.1 kg of CO2e per garment Weight of jeans (0,5 kg approximately) *weight of my own jeans 3,57 + 9,244 = 12,514 kg of CO2e per kg 0,5 x 12,514 = 6,257 kg of CO2e 6,257 kg of CO2e + 0,1 (transportation) = 6,3 kg of CO2e Eco-cost formula= 0.116€/kg Co2 6,3 x 0,116 = 0,73 euros per pair of jeans
Knit
50% Wool / 50% Nylon
Materials Weight of knit - 0,5 kg Wool - 2,18kg CO2e per 100g - 21,8 kg CO2e per kg Nylon - 8,71 kg CO2e per kg 50% Wool - 21,8 x 0,5=10,9 kg of CO2 per kg 50% Nylon - 8,71 x 0,5=4,355 kg of CO2 per kg Total: 15,255 kg of CO2e per kg of material 15,255 x 0,5 = 7,6 kg of CO2e Production Spinning (polymers) - 0,971 kg of CO2e per kg Dyeing -2.434 kg of CO2e per kg Knitting - 0,115 kg of CO2e per kg Total: 3,52 kg of CO2e per kg of fabric 3,52 x 0,5 = 1,76 kg of CO2e **Sourcing + Production: Weihua, M. (2020) **Tool for maritime routes: Searates.com (2005)
Raincoat 100% recycled PET
Materials Weight of raincoat - 1 kg PET, bottle grade - 3,44 kg CO2e per kg (recycling processes) Production Texturing polymer fibres - 0,410 kg CO2e per kg Heat setting and washing synthetic fabrics - 0,739 kg CO2e per kg Spinning polymers - 0,728 kg CO2e per kg Dyeing - 1,826 kg CO2e per kg Weaving (70 dtex) - 8,67 kg CO2e per kg Coating - ? Total: 12,373 kg of CO2e Transportation Port of Wilmington - Shanghai 12458 km 40g of CO2e every 1000kg of order (per km) (Yolet’s class) 0,04g of CO2e in every 1kg of order and km 0,04g x 12458 = 498,32g = 0,498kg of CO2 per raincoat
Transportation Xinjiang - Shanghai 4,063 km - 1044 kg CO2 1044/8640=0,12 kg of CO2e per garment Shanghai - Rotterdam 40g of CO2e every 1000kg of order (per km)
(as calculated in Yolet‘s class)
xg of CO2e 0,5kg (1 knit) - 40x0,5=1000x; x=0,02 - 0,02g of CO2e per km 19174,9 km (Route Shanghai-Rotterdam) 0,02 x 19174,9= 383,5 g of CO2 = 0,38 kg of CO2e Rotterdam - Diemen (57 km) 15 kg CO2 15/8640=0,001 kg of CO2 per garment Total: 7,6 kg of CO2e + 1,76 kg of CO2e + 0,12 kg of CO2e + 0,38 kg of CO2e + 0,001 kg of CO2e = 9,86 kg of CO2e 9,86 x 0,116= 1,14 euros
Shanghai - Fuzhou 788 km - 202 kg CO2 202 / 8640 = 0,023 kg of CO2 per garment Fuzhou- Shanghai 0,023 kg of CO2 per garment Shanghai - Rotterdam (40g of CO2e every 1000kg of order and km) 0,04g of Co2e every kg of order 0,04g x 19174,9 km (Route Shanghai-Rotterdam)=767 g of CO2e = 0,767 kg of CO2e Rotterdam - Diemen (57 km) 15 kg CO2 0,001 kg of CO2 per garment 3,44 kg CO2e + 12,373 kg of CO2e + 0,498kg of CO2 +0,023 kg of CO2e + 0,767 kg of CO2e + 0,001 kg of CO2 = 17,1 kg of CO2e Total: 17,1 x 0,116 = 1,98 euros
55
**Shanghai - Production Factory: Lijinte (2020) **Tool for maritime routes: Searates.com (2005)
Advise calculations explained Patches
How long will it take to produce the patches? *These results are true if they decide to outsource the production of the patches* Design time= Assuming that it takes approximately 5 weeks to create one collection (as seen in the flowchart we created in the sourcing plan assignment) and there are approximately 160 items per collection (data taken from collection analysis assignment) then it would take around 1hour and 45min to create 1 garment/accessory. *Taking into consideration that an average working day is 8 hours*; -35 days in 5 weeks -8x35 hours to design 1 collection -280 hours to design 1 collection -280/160 items= 1,75 hours per item to design However as we believe 5 styles of patches should be made the total amount of design time for the patches would be 8 hours and 45 min. Manufacturing= “Custom Patch manufacturing time is 14-17 days for reorders, 17-19 days if new to us. (Hero’s Pride, 2021) So in total the design and manufacturing time would be approximately 17 days 8 hours and 45 min. Time How much will a patch cost to produce? Assuming AT have an order quantity of 500 patches (100 per style) and that the size of the patch is approximately 10x10cm the price per unit would be €1.03. https://patchsuperstore.com/wholesale-pricing/ How much will this patch cost at retail price? With a price to produce the patch at €1.03 and an estimated AT mark-up of 60% and VAT of 21% the retail price of the patch will be €1.99 this price also fits well with the phycological pricing strategy that AT use. (America Today, 2021) How much will the patch cost to advertise? As we have previously identified it seems AT predominately advertise its products online. Therefore we have chosen to research the costs associated with online advertising. (Dan Shewan (2020) After reading this article we as a team assume that AT are considered as a relatively small business. Therefore we estimate that they will spend between €7000-€8000 on online advertising each month already. Assuming that this patch will attribute only to a small amount of profit for the company we have designated this product with having access to approximately 10% of this budget as it is a new product. 10% of this budget equates to anywhere between €700-€800 of spending each month on marketing.
Study Area How much will the costs be for the tables and chairs? After further consideration and research for this recommendation we realized that perhaps the creation of a study area could be done so through use of second-hand/ vintage furnishings. Not only would this help reduce costs for this recommendation but will also reinforce the brands move to a more sustainable way of operating. Assuming that AT only implement these study areas in their flagship stores i.e. 5 stores. The costs would be approximately: - Chairs (Marketplaats, 2021) per unit= €25 - Tables Marketplaats, 2021) per unit=€60 Assuming that they have 2 tables and 6 chairs per location this will come to a total cost of: 6x25x5=€750 2x60x5=€600 Total=€1350 How much will the costs be for vending machines & maintenance? After doing some research we believe that AT should opt for Full-service vending. In this method the vending machine and its maintenance will come at no extra cost to AT! After reading the following (Vending group, 2021) it is apparent that AT would qualify for this service. This way AT can utilize this recommendation and its advantages at no extra cost. However the only downside to this is that no money can be made from the vending machine as this will go to the company who will be doing the maintenance. Although the machine will simply be there as a way to attract customers to the study area and not large amounts of income will be lost as the cost of the products that the vending machines will sell will be relatively small in comparison to the clothing.
Vintage section What percentage of the profit should AT provide to customers who bring in their old garments? promotions Going off of the assumption that AT market their products at a 60% margin we can assume there is flexibility of at least 10-20%. We would recommend a 20% share of the profit that the resale of the garment makes for customers who bring in their old garments as this will entice the customer much more and make them more likely to bring in their old garments. (Thijs de Valk, 2016) *This will of course vary on the quality of the second-hand garments that they bring in*. Perhaps if the garments are badly damaged they can be used to produce recycled materials for the brand in which case the customer will only receive 10% of the profits. (Americommerce, 2020)
Pop-ups What brand(s) should AT work with? After some research we as a team believe that the brand Pangaia will be very well suited to AT. They fit all of the requirements; the brand currently has no stores in Europe (they sell exclusively online (The Pangaia, 2021), they are niche and independent and they fit with AT’s brand identity. We believe that through working with this company AT will gain a lot more attention from their target market as they are something completely new to Europeans and are very trendy in the US at the moment. Not only does this brand fulfil all these factors but they will also help to improve AT image in terms of sustainable awareness. The brands co-founder Jaden Smith we also believe embodies the essence of AT. Someone who is young, athletic, trendy and of American nationality. In this article Forbes even says the brand “looks set to be the first fashion company truly tackling this challenge (sustainability), from the bottom up”. (Brooke Roberts-Islam, 2019) Other articles to support brand recommendation; Anne Gaffié, Lofficiel (2020) Harpers Bazar (2020) Scarlett Conlon, Vogue (2020 How much stock will AT buy from niche brands? How much will this cost? We believe that if AT are to buy from a niche brands they should do a deal with the company to fist trial the brand in its flagship stores before they decide to continue the partnership and buy more stock as a way of lowering the risk associated with this recommendation. For example; start off with letting 50 units at a rate of 20% and then paying the full amount only once all garments are sold. If AT are to implement this strategy they can trial out a wider variety of brands to see which brands work with their target consumers and which don’t and no risks are involved. Assuming that Pangaia uses the same profit margin to AT (60%) the cost price of a basic hoodie would be €74.05 at wholesale. (The Pangaia, 2021) -Hoodie retail price incl. VAT= €128 -Consumer price excl. VAT= €105.79(128/121x100) -Wholesale price excl. VAT= €74.05(105.79x0.7)*Assuming that the wholesale mark-up is 30%* If AT are to implement the exemplified strategy and choose to work with Pangaia then the initial costs will be approximately; €740.50 and if the garments are all sold the total costs would be €3702 but with profits of €2698 on just 50 units. How much will a pop-up cost? “The build-out cost for a temporary pop-up shop is $1,500 – $10,000”. Carolyn M.Brown, Black Enterprise (2016) This is approximately €1,250- €8,300. As a team we assume that spending will be more limited as the pop-ups will not be available for a long period of time (perhaps only available for 2 weeks). Therefore we estimate a budget of €2,000 per pop-up as the stores will only be temporary and not brick and mortar. Other articles to support pop-up recommendation; Popup Insider (2021) Daniel Keyes (2019) Arianne Cohen (2019)
56
3 A s s e s s m e nt f or m 2 0 2 0 - 2 0 2 1 , S e m e s t e r 3 Class:
Student:
D
Competences
Criteria
--
Research
Collects and interprets relevant data based on given information and previously received feedback Demonstrates broad integrated knowledge and understanding of basic theories and materials, particularly in the areas of product development and production strategies. Develops an innovative production plan and makes the necessary substantiated improvements. Demonstrates 2D and 3D products, according to the set criteria in the manual, with innovative solutions in which personal vision is combined with current presentation possibilities. Demonstrates a broad fashion related and socially responsible awareness in products and process The management summary is written in correct Business English and meets the set criteria. Provides a convincing and coherent presentation with a logical structure. Is the 'purpose economy' aspect expressed?
Decision making Actualisation
Presentation
Evalueren Organisation
Students show a balanced and proportionate contribution to the product. Identifies limitations of existing knowledge in professional practice and appoints development points Did you work efficiently and effectively (together)?
Explanation of the grade: Recommendations /Feed forward:
F B& D, P r o d uc t i on pl a n
Date:
-
Lecturer: -
-/+
+
++
Grade: remarks
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tĞ ŶŽǁ ŚĂǀĞ Ă ĚĞĞƉĞƌ ƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐ ŽĨ ŵĂƚĞƌŝĂůƐ ĂĨƚĞƌ ƚŚĞ ƚĞdžƚŝůĞ ĂŶĂůLJƐŝƐ ĐůĂƐƐĞƐ ĂŶĚ ƚŚĞ ƌĞůĂƚŝǀĞ ƉƌŽĚƵĐƚƐ ƚŚĂƚ ǁĞ ŶĞĞĚĞĚ ƚŽ ƉƌŽĚƵĐĞ ĨŽƌ ƚŚĂƚ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ͘t ǁĞƌĞ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ĂƉƉůLJ ƚŚŝƐ ŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞ ĞĨĨĞĐƚŝǀĞůLJ ĂŶĚ ĐŽŶĨŝĚĞŶƚůLJ ďĞĐĂƵƐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƚŝŽŶ ǁĞ ŚĂǀĞ ŐĂŝŶĞĚ ĨƌŽŵ ƉƌĞǀŝŽƵƐ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚƐ ƌĞůĂƚŝŶŐ ƚŽ d͘
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/ƚ ǁĂƐ Ă ĐŽŶƐĐŝŽƵƐ ĚĞĐŝƐŝŽŶ ƚŽ ĨŽĐƵƐ ŽŶ ƐŚŽƌƚ ƚĞƌŵ ƌĞĐŽŵŵĞŶĚĂƚŝŽŶƐ ĂƐ ǁĞ ďĞůŝĞǀĞ ŝƚ ǁĂƐ ďĞƐƚ ƚŽ ŝŶŝƚŝĂůůLJ ĨŽĐƵƐ ŽŶ ƐŽůǀŝŶŐ ƚŚĞ ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚ ŝƐƐƵĞƐ ǁŝƚŚŝŶ ƚŚĞ ĐŽŵƉĂŶLJ͕ ďĞĨŽƌĞ ƐƵŐŐĞƐƚŝŶŐ ŵŽƌĞ ĐŽŵƉůĞdž ƌĞĐŽŵŵĞŶĚĂƚŝŽŶƐ͘
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tĞ ďĞůŝĞǀĞ ǁĞ ĐƌĞĂƚĞĚ Ă ĚĞƐŝŐŶ ďŽƚŚ Ϯ ĂŶĚ ϯ ƚŚĂƚ ƌĞĨůĞĐƚĞĚ ŽƵƌ ŝĚĞĂƐ ŽĨ ĂŶ ŝŵƉƌŽǀĞĚ ĨƵƚƵƌĞ ĐŽůůĞĐƚŝŽŶ ĨŽƌ d͕ ǁŚŝĐŚ ďŽƚŚ ƐŽůǀĞƐ ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚ ŝƐƐƵĞƐ ĂŶĚ ŽƉĞŶƐ ŶĞǁ ƉŽƐƐŝďŝůŝƚŝĞƐ͘
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ůů ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƌĞĐŽŵŵĞŶĚĂƚŝŽŶƐ ǁĞ ŝŵƉůĞŵĞŶƚĞĚ ŝŶƚŽ ŽƵƌ ƌĞƉŽƌƚ ǁĞƌĞ ůŝŶŬĞĚ ƚŽ ƐƵƐƚĂŝŶĂďŝůŝƚLJ͘ dŚĞ ĐŽ ĐŽƐƚƐ ǁĞƌĞ ĐĂůĐƵůĂƚĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ ŐƌĞĂƚ ĂǁĂƌĞŶĞƐƐ ĂŶĚ ƐĞŶƐŝƚŝǀŝƚLJ ƚŽǁĂƌĚƐ ƚŚĞ ĐƵƌƌĞŶƚ ŐůŽďĂů ĐůŝŵĂƚĞ͘
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dŚĞ ƐƵŵŵĂƌLJ ŝƐ ǁĞůů ƐƚƌƵĐƚƵƌĞĚ ĂŶĚ ƌĞĨĞƌƐ ƚŽ Ăůů ƌĞůĞǀĂŶƚ ƉŽŝŶƚƐ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƌĞƉŽƌƚ ĞĨĨĞĐƚŝǀĞůLJ ĂŶĚ ŝŶ ĂƉƉƌŽƉƌŝĂƚĞ ůĂŶŐƵĂŐĞ͘
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tĞ ďĞůŝĞǀĞ ĂƐ Ă ƚĞĂŵ ƚŚĂƚ ŽǀĞƌ ƚŚĞ ůĂƐƚ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚƐ ŽƵƌ ƉƌĞƐĞŶƚŝŶŐ Θ ĐŽŵŵƵŶŝĐĂƚŝŽŶ ƐŬŝůůƐ ŚĂǀĞ ĂĚǀĂŶĐĞĚ ŐƌĞĂƚůLJ ĂŶĚ ǁĞ ĂƌĞ ŶŽǁ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ŐĞƚ ŽƵƌ ŝĚĞĂƐ ĂŶĚ ƌĞƐĞĂƌĐŚ ĂĐƌŽƐƐ ŝŶ Ă ŵƵĐŚ ŵŽƌĞ ƉƌŽĨĞƐƐŝŽŶĂů ŵĂŶŶĞƌ͘
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ƵĞ ƚŽ ƚŚĞ ĐŽƌƌĞĐƚ ƵƐĞ ŽĨ ƚŚĞ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ ƉůĂŶŶŝŶŐ ĚŽĐƵŵĞŶƚ ǁĞ ǁĞƌĞ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ĚŝǀŝĚĞ ƚŚĞ ƚĂƐŬƐ ĞƋƵĂůůLJ ĂŶĚ ĨĂŝƌůLJ͘
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tĞ ŝĚĞŶƚŝĨLJ ƚŚĞ ůŝŵŝƚĂƚŝŽŶƐ ŽĨ ŽƵƌ ŬŶŽǁůĞĚŐĞ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚůLJ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ŐƌŽƵƉ ƉƌŽĐĞƐƐ Ŭ͘
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tĞ ŚĂǀĞ ĨƌĞƋƵĞŶƚ ŵĞĞƚŝŶŐƐ ĂŶĚ ŚĂǀĞ Ă ŵƵƚƵĂů ƵŶĚĞƌƐƚĂŶĚŝŶŐ ŽĨ ŽŶĞ ĂŶŽƚŚĞƌ ƐŽ ǁĞ ĂƌĞ ĂďůĞ ƚŽ ĐŽŵŵƵŶŝĐĂƚĞ ĂŶĚ ĂĚǀĂŶĐĞ ǁĞůů ƚŽŐĞƚŚĞƌ ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚŽƵƚ ƚŚĞ ƉƌŽũĞĐƚ͘
tĞ ƌĞĨĞƌ ďĂĐŬ ĨƌĞƋƵĞŶƚůLJ ƚŽ ƚŚŝƐ ƉƌŝŶĐŝƉĂů ƚŚƌŽƵŐŚŽƵƚ ŽƵƌ ƌĞƉŽƌƚ ĂŶĚ ĚƵƌŝŶŐ ŽƵƌ ƌĞƐĞĂƌĐŚ ƉŚĂƐĞ͘
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