Carmen Guitierrez Ruiz, Eloise Anthony, Federico Sgarlata, Laura Kim Kassin
Group 16
Homework Assignment
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY
COLOURFASTNESS TO RUBBING ISO 105 X12 - Crockmeter
This method is intended for determining the resistance of the colour of textiles of all kinds to rubbing off and staining other materials. I - dry
II - wet
1. Rubbing cloth 9
9
16
16
10 cm - 4”
10 cm - 4”
10
10
YES
YES
4
4
3/4
3/4
2. Downforce on the finger in Newton (N)
3. Diameter of the finger in mm
4. Rubbing distance of the finger (2", 3" or 4")
5. Number of tracks (rubs)
6. Bleached cotton rubbing cloth 50 x 50 mm (yes/no)
7. Number of the greyscale for changing
8. Number of the greyscale for staining
Swatch Original
General remark :
Rubbing cloth Dry
Rubbing cloth Wet
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY CREASE RECOVERY ISO 9867 - Wrinkle recovery tester
Scope and application This method is used to determine the appearance of textile fabrics after induced wrinkling. It is applicable to woven and knitted fabrics 1. Raw material of the fabric
Cotton
2. Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
3. Temperature in °C
21
4. Relative Humidity (RH) in %
60
5. Measuring of the swatch in mm
145 mm x 285 mm
6. Weight of the material in g/m2
CHOOSE 150/200/300
7. Compression weight in g
3000g
8. Load time
10 minutes
9. Number of photographic standard immediately after the test
4
10. Number of photographic standard 24 hours after the test
7
General remark:
Swatch
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOUR FASTNESS TO HOT PRESSING/ IRONING ISO 105 – X11
Scope and application This method for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to ironing and to processing on hot cylinders. Tests are given for hot pressing when the textile is dry (dry heat), when it is wet and when it is damp. 1. Raw material of the fabric
Cotton
2. Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
3. Material of adjacent fabric 1
PES
4. Material of adjacent fabric 2
CO
5. Adjacent fabrics dry or wet
Dry
6. Test time in seconds
30
7. Test temperature in °C
Test 1 : 150
Test 2 : 200
10.Number of the greyscale for changing
5
4
11. Number of the greyscale for staining, adjacent fabric 1
5
4
12. Number of the greyscale for staining, adjacent fabric 2
5
4/5
TEST 1 Treated adjacent fabric 1
Treated adjacent fabric 2
Treated swatch 1
General remarks:
TEST 2 Treated adjacent fabric 1
Original swatch
Treated adjacent fabric 2
Treated swatch 2
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LAUNDERING / DRYING ISO 5077 / 6330
This method is determining the dimensional change of fabrics and garments when subjected to an appropriate combination of specified washing and drying procedures 1. Raw material of the fabric
Cotton
2. Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
3. Washing program / temperature
? “Make a choice of wash temperature. It depends on the colour fastness by washing. Wash the specimen at the temperature of your care label”
4. Kind of soap (detergent)
AH KLEURWAS
5. Drying conditions
LYING
6. Measure direction
Warp 1
7. Measurement before washing in mm
-
-
-
-
8. Measurement after washing in mm
-
-
-
-
9. Shrinkage per direction in %
3
10. (T) Total surface shrinkage in % Wa x We T= Wa + We - --------------- % 100
SKIP
11. Tumble drying yes or no If yes follow the same measuring and calculation after drying
No (since fabric didn’t meet the requirements for dimensional stability to laundry)
Warp 2
Weft 1
Weft 2
5
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY
We 1 10 ______500_______ 10 Swatch Wa 1
10
500
500
________________ 500 10 We 2
General remark :
Wa 2
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY
COLOURFASTNESS TO WASHING
ISO 105 - C06
40°C
This method is intended for determining the resistance of colour of textiles to domestic laundering procedures. 150cc/50cc 1. Quantity of soap solution in ml. 4 g/l ECE standard + 1 g/l perborate 40º 2. Wash temperature in °C and time in min. 10/25 3. Number of non-corrodible steel balls
4. Adjacent fabric: multifibre strip
CA 4
CO 3/4
PA 3/4
PES 4
PAN 3
WO 3/4
5. Number of greyscale for staining Cotton 6. Raw material of the fabric 4 7. Number of grayscale for changing
FABRIC original
Particulars:
General remark:
FABRIC colour changing
MULTIFIBRE original
MULTIFIBRE colour staining
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY ABRASION RESISTANCE OF FABRICS - ISO 12947 Martindale
Scope: This method tests the determination of abrasion resistance of fabrics. It is not generally applicable to fabrics with a pile longer than 2 mm. 1. Raw material of the fabric
Cotton
2. Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
3. Weight of the material in g/m2
CHOOSE: 150/200/300
4. Pressure in kPa
12 kPa
5. Abrasive cloth type
Wool SM 25
TEST
Changing of the colour turns
swatch 1
swatch 2
Visible changes of the surface swatch 1
swatch 2
HAIRY 1000 2000
5 HAIRY 4/5
3000
BECOMES SMOOTH
4 4000 5000 6000 7000
SMOOTH 4 SMOOTH 4 SMOOTH 3/4 SMOOTH 3/4
Original swatch
General remark:
Treated swatch 1
Treated swatch 2
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION 1. Raw material of the fabric
Cotton
2. Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
3. Oven temperature in โ ฐC
37ยบ
4. Oven test time in hours
4
5. Number of the greyscale for alkaline changing
4/5
6. Number of the greyscale for acid changing
4/5
7. Material multifibre strip
CA
CO
PA
ISO 105 E04
PES
PAN
WO
8. Number of the greyscale for alkaline staining
3/4
3/4
4/5
4
5
3/4
9. Number of the greyscale for acid staining
4
3/4
3/4
4
3
3/4
SWATCHES Alkaline treated
Original
General remark:
MULTIFIBRE STRIPS Acid treated
Alkaline treated
Original
Acid treated
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY
MARTINDALE PILLING TEST ISO 12945-2 Scope: This method tests the resistance against pilling of woven and knitted fabrics.
Name of the fabric
Denim
Raw material in the warp
Cotton
Raw material in the weft
Cotton
Construction of the fabric
Twill weave
Specimen size
14 cm diameter
Temperature in °C
21
Relative humidity in %
60
Results compare with the standard pilling scales After 125 turns : 4/5 After 500 turns : 4/5 After 1000 turns :3/4 After 2000 turns :3/4 Original swatch
Treated swatch after 2000 turns
Hogeschool van Amsterdam Amsterdam Fashion Institute
TEXTILES LABORATORY
Comparison * *
** **
*** ***
****
Possible Improvements * Through controlled pre-shrinking the final shrinkage of the textile can be minimized. ** Enzyme treatment or an easy-care treatment will reduce pilling. The yarns of the textile are Z-twisted fiber yarns. Twisting the yarns more tightly or folding the yarns could also decrease the pilling. Increasing the length of the fibers would be another option. *** Using vat dyes and the treatments of soaping, dye fixing, and wet rubbing can improve the results of the colour fastness to perspiration test. Applying satin-resistance substances could also help. ****Vat dyes as well as an easy-care treatment could be used to make the textile more washfast.
Care Label
ASSESSMENTFORM WORKSHOPS SEM 3 TEXTILE & QUALITY 16
group/ team: assessor (teacher): date:
mark for tests and reports:
SELF ASSESSMENTgroup Our fabric portfolio is complete although with the quality portfolio it was very difficult to complete. did you work in an organised, structured way As we did the quality portfolio testing theoretically rather than practically it was time management: did you use the time efficiently confusing for us as a team. We attended all of the classes, we work very well together as a is the final result is complete and correct team and had frequent meeting to work on the project.
Remarks per person, if necessary
ORGANISATION i n d i c a t o r s
did you attend all classes and worked well together
VALUE OF CONCLUSIONS is the fabric portfolio complete i n d i c a t o r s
did you work on schedule is the quality portfolio complete does the care label make sense, can you underbuild it does the advice quality improvement make sense did you do sufficient research for your advice
The fabric porfolio is complete. Sometimes we fell behind schedule but we managed to catch up and produce every deliverable on time. The quality portfolio is complete. The carelabel we created currently does not make sense as it is not realistic. We believe the fabric is too fragile and unstable to be used commercially. The advice we gave we believe will improve and solve the issues we found through "testing", although more tests need to be applied before these recommendations can be implemented. We as a team felt that Marcella's classes provided us with a sufficient foundation of knowledge to provide solutions as well as some of our own personal research. We justified our solutions with relevant sources.
SELF ASSESSMENT (TEAM) elements:
how did the process go wat did you learn what do you need to develop further
VALUE OF THE ABOVE SELF ASSESSMENT i n d i c a t o r s
The process was not so smooth as we could never give this project our full attention. We felt that the progress was jolted whenever we had a deadline to meet. Although in the end we were able to meet the schedule. We learnt valuable in-depth knowledge of textiles. As a team we are now able to identify fabrics, their qualities, their properties and describe them using more professional language. We now know the testing processes that fabrics have to go through and the recommendations that these test results should meet. We learnt about the construction of fabrics and the different kinds of fabric finishes and their respective benefits and disadvantages. We now feel as a team that we are able to make more conscious choices when buying fabrics as we have a better understanding of how to apply our knowledge. It would be ideal if we could do the testing physically as we feel that that would make us understand them even better. As a team we felt we could have commited more time to this project as we often got distracted by the demands of our other ongoing courses.
The above assesment is realistic and complete. We tried to give an honest and truthful insight into our process and how we managed it as a team. It is complete as we answered all the is it realistic components extensively. is it complete
REMARKS ASSESSOR (TEACHER) feedback & feed forward