AUTUMN 2010
The Genius of Nicolas G. Hayek: 1928-2010 Breguet I Reine de Naples, Automatic Strike Bulgari 1 BZERO1 10 year anniversary
PREMIUM I CONTENT
30
COVER STORY The Genius of Nicolas
COVER STORY
38
30
The Genius of Nicolas G. Hayek: 1928-2010
WATCHES PATEK PHILIPPE 38
Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980
AUDEMARS PIGUET 42
Royal Oak Offshore Diver
BREGUET 46
Reine de Naples, Automatic Strike
JAEGER-LECOULTRE 48
The Legendary Memovox
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL 54
PanoInverse XL
ULYSSE NARDIN 56 Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980
26 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
El Toro
OMEGA 60
Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial 38.50 mm
PREMIUM I CONTENT 42
BULGARI 64
Sotirio Bulgari
GUCCI 68
U-Play Collection
LOUIS ERARD 72 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver
Emotion
SAINT HONORE 76
Coloseo Black Racing
MOVADO
48
78
Series 800™ SUB-SEA™
VICTORINOX SWISS ARMY 80
Dive Master 500 Black Ice Chrono & Mecha
HAMILTON 82
Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Collection
TISSOT Jaeger-LeCoultre The Legendary Memovox
84
Veloci-T Ladies
HUGO BOSS
82
86
HB-5012.1
ROTARY
88
The Synergy of Technology and Watch Styling
TITONI 90
ck Hamilton Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Collection
92
ck glam
ESPRIT 94
98
Airmaster
Dolce Vita
TOYWATCH
96
Jelly Tatoo
SWATCH 98
Full Blooded
FLIK FLAK
100 Flik Flak Hello Kitty Swatch Full Blooded
28 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I CONTENT
JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES
108
BULGARI
104 BZERO1 10 year anniversary
GUCCI
108 The Bamboo Collection
MORELLATO 109 Twist Gucci The Bamboo Collection
119
KAYALI JEWELRY
110 All About Black Diamonds
ck
114 ck chain
SWATCH BIJOUX 116 Maona
BULGARI ACCESSORIES
118 Bulgari Presents a New Accessory Collection for Men 119 Bulgari Presents a New Accessory Collection for Women Bulgari New Accessory Collection for Women
126
PREMIUM NEWS 122 The New “Isabella Rossellini” Handbag by Bulgari 126 OMEGA opens Co-Axial Exhibition at KaDeWe in Berlin 128 The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives 129 Louis Erard official timekeeper of the Allianz Suisse Open 130 Saint Honore’s Racing Spirit
OMEGA opens Co-Axial Exhibition at KaDeWe in Berlin
134
Twilight Eclipse Premiere Sponsored by Time Center
30 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
134 Twilight Eclipse Premiere Sponsored by Time Center 135 Kayali Jewelry’s Diamond Festival $40,000 Winners
PREMIUM I WELCOME LETTER
The watch industry felt a shock wave when the announcement was made that Mr. Nicolas G. Hayek passed away earlier this year. Mr. Hayek was a driving force in the watch industry and often identified as the savior of the Swiss watch industry in particular. With the launch of his brilliant brand Swatch in the 1980s, Mr. Hayek managed to save the Swiss watch industry from imminent collapse. It is for this reason we have dedicated this issue of Premium magazine to the inspiring character that Mr. Hayek was with the feature The Genius of Nicolas G. Hayek (p. 30).
EDITOR IN CHIEF CELINE ALAEDDIN
Also in this issue, we see some beautiful watch collections for ladies, including the stunning Breuget Reine de Naples Automatic Strike (p. 46), the beautiful OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial collection (p. 60), versatile Gucci U-Play collection (p. 68) and the playful Swatch Full Blooded collection (p. 98).
MANAGING DIRECTOR
For the gents, we have the highly anticipated Ulysse Nardin El Toro (p. 56), Patek Philippe’s first Nautilus Chronograph Ref 5980 (p. 38) available on a leather strap, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s two new versions of the legendary Memovox (p. 48) and the Hamilton Khaki Team Earth collection (p. 82) designed in collaboration with actor Harrison Ford.
P.O.Box 630 Amman, 11118 Jordan
AMMAR ABU GOURA
PUBLISHED BY: AL MAJAL AGENCY
ADVERTISING INQUIRIES TELFAX: +962 6 553 00 47 premiummagazine@almajalagency.com
PRINTED AT: On the news front, Isabella Rosselini collaborated with Bulgari to launch her own line of exquisitely designed handbags (p. 122), Louis Erad was named the Official Timekeeper of the Allianz Suisse Open (p. 129) and Kayali Jewelry culminated their annual Diamond Festival with four lucky winners who walked away with $10,000 each (p. 135). As the weather cools down, curl up on the couch with a hot beverage and this issue of Premium to enjoy what the world of watches and jewelry has to offer.
32 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
AL NAHDA PRINTING PRESS
PREMIUM I WATCHES
The Genius of Nicolas G. Hayek: 1928-2010
By Karen Simon
T
o remember the watch world before the 1980s is to remember utilitarian timepieces whose sole purpose was to keep track of the passing minutes. Watches were pragmatic accessories sought after in number only by the wealthy, while the masses contented themselves with owning just one. However, in 1982 with the introduction of the lightweight, colorful, and inexpensive Swatch Watch, watches transformed almost overnight into must-have
34 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
accessories for people of every age, gender, and social status. Nicolas G. Hayek, founder and chairman of the Swatch Group, was the genius behind this paradigm shift. Born in Lebanon in 1928, Nicolas G. Hayek went on to study mathematics, physics, and chemistry at the University of Lyon, France, after which he moved to Zurich, Switzerland in the 1960s to establish his first consultancy firm, Hayek Engineering AG. Having been involved in the reorganization of AEG-Telefunken and Swiss Railways, Mr. Hayek was approached, in the early 1980s,
by a group of Swiss banks to draw up a report on how best to dissolve the two main Swiss watch manufacturers, Societé Suisse de l’Industrie Horlogèr (SSIH) and Allgemeine Schweizerische Uhrenindustrie AG (ASUAG). Switzerland, formerly having been on the forefront of watch manufacturing, had by the 1970s, lost ground to the low-cost Japanese quartz watches Citizen, Seiko, and Casio. High labor costs in Switzerland threatened the production of Swiss watches and allowed East Asian watch producers to undercut Swiss
PREMIUM I WATCHES
35 35I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
prices. To maintain possession of the lower and middle market of watchmaking—and to allow Switzerland to concentrate on producing expensive rarities— companies like Seiko were offering to buy up Omega and other Swiss watch brands. And seeing no other choice, the Swiss bankers were prepared to submit to this proposition. In an ironic twist of events however, Mr. Hayek, who was originally brought on board to
36 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
liquidate the floundering Swiss watch industry, decided to merge and streamline the SSIH and ASUAG under the banner of the Société Suisse de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie (SMH)—which in 1998 would be renamed Swatch Group—to compete against the Japanese watch producers for the majority of the market share. Champion of self-sustainability— once telling the Wall Street Journal, “I was the advocate of the fact that we should produce in our own
countries,”—Mr. Hayek was not prepared to relinquish the historic tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He was convinced that people saw in Swiss watches, not just ornate timepieces, but, “the message of the culture of Switzerland.” And thanks to Swiss engineers Elmar Mock and Jacques Müller, creating inexpensive Swiss quartz watches was no longer unfeasible. They developed a quartz watch composed of only 51 components (Japanese quartz watches are made up of over 100), that could
PREMIUM I WATCHES
37 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
be produced locally in Switzerland and retailed for under $35 (JOD 25). Thus began the meteoric rise of the Swatch Watch. The combination of an inexpensive timepiece with Swiss Made design was irresistible to consumers, and within the first three years of the company’s inception, 12 million Swatch units had been sold worldwide. Through Swatch, Mr. Hayek put forth the idea that a watch is much
38 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
more than a timekeeper: a watch is a personal, artistic statement. And with artists like Keith Haring and Kiki Picasso commissioned to design collections, the concept of owning more than one watch quickly grew among the masses. The global popularity of Swatch revitalized the entire Swiss watch industry and pushed Nicolas G. Hayek to the forefront of horologic celebrity. Flooded with profits from the lower-end Swatch, Mr. Hayek was next able to concentrate
on rebuilding the SMH’s more exclusive watch brands, such as Tissot, Longines, and Omega. He reinvested in new factories, financed further research and development projects, and began expanding the company’s portfolio by purchasing brands like Blancpain and Glashütte Original. In 1999, Mr. Hayek—in an ingenious move to ensure both the market dominance and the prestige of his company—procured one of the world’s oldest and most
PREMIUM I WATCHES
prestigious watch brands, Breguet. Unlike Swatch, which produces up to 20 million units a year, Breguet produces only 40,000 units yearly. However, with a retail price of up to $1.6 million (JOD 1.1 million), in purchasing Breguet, Mr. Hayek guaranteed that the Swatch Group would be a force throughout the watch industry, fashioning the most basic to the most luxurious timepieces. Almost 30 years since it’s creation,
the Swatch Group is today the world’s largest watch manufacturer, and Nicolas G. Hayek, who was originally hired to help terminate the main players of the Swiss watch industry, will forever be remembered as its savior. With his passing at the age of 82 on June 28, 2010, the watch world lost its most ardent supporter and Switzerland its leading entrepreneur. Mr. Hayek died of heart failure while working at his
beloved company’s headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. The Hayek name, however, remains the mainstay of the Swatch Group; Mr. Hayek’s daughter, Nayla Hayek succeeds him as Chairwoman of the Board of Directors, while his son Nicolas Jr. has, since 2002, been the Swatch Group’s chief executive. To Nicolas G. Hayek, the Swatch Group was more than just a company or a business strategy, it was a duty to his country and a cherished family affair.
39 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
F
Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980
our years ago, on the occasion of its 30th anniversary, the entire Nautilus collection was subtly refined and scaled up with new models. Special acclaim was garnered by the Nautilus Chronograph with a sporty complication to enhance its intrinsic casual elegance. Within the scope of its chronograph premières at Baselworld 2010, Patek Philippe is now launching two further Nautilus chronograph models that with their differentiated personalities will appeal to an even broader audience.
The common denominators What both watches share is their inimitable style, the elaborate construction of their cases, and the modern self-winding CH 28520 C chronograph movement that has already become a legend. The three-part, 44-mm-wide case with a screwed sapphire-crystal display back exhibits a typical Nautilus feature: the lateral ridges with the porthole mechanism for securing the bezel. Together with the hightech crown and pusher seals, it contributes to the remarkable water resistance of 12 bar (120 meters). This case, at once elegant and rugged, accommodates Patek Philippe’s self-winding CH 28520 C chronograph movement with a column wheel, a vertical disk clutch, and an instantaneous aperture date at 3 o’clock that switches in a tenth of a second. Thanks to the nearly wear-free
42 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980R 18K rose gold
disk clutch, the chronograph hand can double as a continuously running sweep seconds hand
without hesitation. Accordingly, the flyback chronograph movement does not have a seconds subdial.
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Ref. 5980R Caliber CH 28-520 C Self-winding mechanical movement 30 mm 18K rose gold case Brown gradient dial Hand-stitched, large-scaled alligator skin strap with fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold
43 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES The minute and hour counters are unusual as well: they are grouped in a monocounter with three concentric scales. It totalizes the minutes from 0 to 30 and from 30 to 60 on separate scales, while the innermost scale shows elapsed hours from 1 to 12.
Nautilus Chronograph Ref. 5980/1A-014 Stainless steel
The special facets of the Ref. 5980R-001 in 18K rose gold on a leather strap At this year’s Baselworld, Patek Philippe is presenting the first Nautilus worn on a leather strap and featuring a precious-metal case crafted from 18K rose gold 5N. Because of a slightly higher proportion of copper, this alloy has a darker red hue than rose gold, so it has a more masculine look without compromising elegance. As a perfect match, the brown dial has a horizontal embossed texture and a bright/dark gradation from the center to the periphery, two typical manifestations of the Nautilus style. The prominent hour markers, nine rose gold appliques filled with a luminescent compound, constitute the formal complements to the baton-style luminescent hands in rose gold. The vibration-free counterbalanced chronograph/seconds hand is made of 18K rose gold as well. The shorter hour-counter hand of the monocounter is white; for better distinguishability, the longer and thinner minute-counter hand is red. The new Nautilus Chronograph in rose gold is worn on a brown, large-scaled alligator strap; it is almost seamlessly integrated into the case with exclusive lug links and secured with a comfortable fold-over clasp in 18K rose gold.
44 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
The special facets of the Ref. 5980/1A-014 in steel The new Ref. 5980/1A-014 distinguishes itself from the rosegold model in terms of the case material, the dial and date display colors, and the bracelet. This casually elegant classic leverages its masculinity in steel. It owes its unique look to the unmistakable shape of the case with prominent lateral ridges and the rounded octagonal bezel as well as to decorative finishes such as the straight-graining on the bezel and the mirror-polished surface of the bezel and case flank chamfers.
The perfectly integrated stainless steel bracelet with polished center links and satin-finished outer links produces the same choreographed light effects. The new stainless steel Nautilus Chronograph also has a distinctive dial that differs from its counterparts in the rose gold and previous stainless steel models. Typical Nautilus traits include the embossing and the bright/dark gradation, but the color black is new, as are the date display with white numerals on a black background and the silvery gray monocounter with black numerals for the minute count from 0 to 30 and the hour count. The minutes from 30 to 60 are printed
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Ref. 5980/1A-014 Caliber CH 28-520 C Self-winding mechanical movement 30 mm stainless steel case Charcoal grey gradient dial Stainless steel bracelet with stainless steel fold-over clasp
in red. The nine baton-style applied
remains in regular production,
hour markers as well as the baton
the new stainless steel Nautilus is
hour and minute hands are 18K
worn on a stainless steel bracelet.
white gold filled with a luminescent
It affords a truly comfortable fit
compound. The steel chronograph/
thanks to the carefully rounded
seconds hand is sandblasted and
links and tightly toleranced gaps. It
rhodiumed. The sandblasted brass
is easy to open and secure with a
monocounter hands are color-
practical fold-over clasp.
coded: white for the hours and red
With its new models for the
for the minutes.
Nautilus Chronograph line, Patek
As its 2006 predecessor, which
Philippe has imbued the legendary
Nautilus collection with fresh appeal. The new stainless steel model with a darker face expresses strength and determination while the new rose gold model showcases the chronograph function with masculine elegance. Indeed, the emotional spectrum of these Nautilus newcomers is inviting. www.patek.com
45 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Royal Oak Equation of Time
T
he Equation of Time is a watch that does not immediately reveal all its secrets, instead preferring to cultivate its aura of mystery and fascinating complexity. Nonetheless, its beauty is selfevident. For the very first time, it is interpreted not within a classical line, but in the Royal Oak collection. Since its creation in 1972, the legendary octagon has embodied the most daring innovations in the field of fine watchmaking. The 423 parts serving to drive the equation of time, sunrise and sunset, perpetual calendar and astronomical moonphase displays are now housed within the famous Royal Oak case. The Royal Oak Equation of Time thereby represents the perfect blend of traditional and modern watchmaking elements.
Inimitable Octagon
Reference 15703ST.OO.A002CA.01 Proprietary Calibre 3120, selfwinding movement 42 mm stainless steel case with black rubber crowns Black dial with exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” motif Black rubber strap with oversized stainless steel pin buckle Water-resistant to 300 metres
46 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Its elegant case, available in a choice of pink gold or steel, is distinguished by an octagonal bezel punctuated by polished white gold hexagonal screws. The crown also picks up this hexagonal motif and proudly bears the AP monogram. The signature features include the distinctively shaped studs along with the alternating satin-brushed and polished finishes on the case. By way of example, the side of the bezel is polished while the upper surface is satin-brushed and matt. The silvered dial remains faithful to the identity codes of the Royal Oak collection by picking up the “Grande Tapisserie” motif which
PREMIUM I WATCHES
47 47I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES highlights the counters and enables pleasant and easy read-off of the various indications: date, day, leap year, moon phase, as well as sunrise and sunset times. The equation of time pointer and the counter hands are in blued steel. The Royal Oak Equation of Time is teamed with a leather strap in brown alligator leather for the pink gold version and in black for the steel model.
The Equation of Time The equation of time is the difference between true solar time and legal time. The solar day, meaning the lapse of time between two consecutive passages of the sun through the meridian in a given place varies throughout the year. It lasts exactly 24 hours only four times a year: on April 15th, June 13th, September 1st and December 25th. This variation is due to the earth’s elliptical path around the sun as well as its tilted rotation axis. For convenience, our societies have calculated an average of all the days of the year and defined the mean solar day as comprising 24 hours, corresponding to socalled legal time.
time is thus the same across the width of each time zone, true solar time varies by four minutes per degree (15 degrees = 1 hour). Therefore, although the clocks on the Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich and on the Rue du Rhône in Geneva indicate the same time, true noon can be observed a few minutes earlier in Zurich than in Geneva.
Nonetheless, the mean solar culmination point depends on the wearer’s exact location, on the longitude of a given place on the globe. The equation of time readoff system developed by Audemars Piguet takes account of this specific place. Unlike most other equation of time mechanisms, it is not set to a given time zone – corresponding to 15 degrees longitude. The “world standard time” system divides the world into 24 time zones and takes the Greenwich meridian as the zero point. While the official
Not only does the Audemars Piguet mechanism take account of this local variation, but also enables one to read off the solar culmination time at any time of the day. To do so, this exceptional mechanism is personalised and adjusted according to the degree of longitude chosen by its owner. The name of the chosen city and the solar zenith in this place are engraved on the ring (such as 12.36 for Geneva). The ring also bears a graduated scale running from -15 to + 15 minutes. The
48 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
zero point of the graduation is located exactly at the mean solar culmination time in the chosen place. The equation of time hand continuously displays the difference between the two values. When the hour hand corresponds to the time indicated on the graduated ring and the equation of time and minute hands are superimposed, the owner of the watch knows that the sun is exactly at its zenith. It’s exactly as if he had a sundial on his wrist, and there is no need for any mental arithmetic!
ndication of sunrise and sunset times The Royal Oak Equation of Time is one of the rare watches to indicate the sunrise and sunset times. These indications depend on three parameters: the date, as well as the longitude and latitude of a given place. The counter at 9
PREMIUM I WATCHES o’clock displays the sunrise time, while the sunset time is read off on the 3 o’clock counters. Their hands are controlled by two cams performing one full rotation per year. The shape of the cams is determined by the latitude of each location, while their position along the driving wheel depends on longitude. These cams must be machined with extreme precision, since a mere hair’s breadth corresponds to a discrepancy of eight minutes! The cams are pre-calculated and available for 250 cities. On request, it is also possible to obtain cams calibrated for any other location, provided it lies between latitudes of 55 degrees north and 55 degrees south. For places closer to the poles, it becomes impossible to maintain a sufficiently wide diameter for the cam.
The perpetual calendar The perpetual calendar mechanism is a marvel of miniaturisation, a highly sophisticated mechanical reproduction of our calendar. How can a timepiece, merely by the meshing of its toothed wheels, levers and clicks, successfully indicate the day, the date, the month, the moon phases and the leap-year cycle? The heart of the perpetual calendar system lies in the cam on which the various lengths of the month are defined. The protruding sections around its circumference represent 31-day months, and the notches those of 30 days. On the same axis, a wheel bearing a cam indicating standard months of February and a leap-year month of February performs one turn every four years and is thus able to keep accurate track of the leap-
year cycle. The perpetual calendar thus requires no adjustments before March 1st 2100, when simply activating the correctors recessed into the side of the case will be enough to readjust the mechanism for another century. The perpetual calendar also drives the other complications (apart from the moon phase). This additional technical feat means that if the watch has stopped, adjusting the date automatically resets the other functions, thus ensuring that the displays remain synchronised.
The astronomical moon As the ‘daughter’ or astronomy, watchmaking has constantly attempted to reproduce on dials the appearance of the moon at various stages in its cycle. The most commonplace display device consists of a disc carrying two moons driven by a 59-tooth wheel. A fingerpiece drives the wheel one notch forward every 24 hours and the moon phase corresponding to that particular day appears through a dial aperture. Within this system, a lunar cycle thus corresponds to 59:2 days, meaning 29 days and 12 hours. Yet a true lunar cycle lasts 29 days, 11 hours, 44 minutes, 2 seconds and 80 hundredths of a second. This difference thus leads to a discrepancy. To solve this problem, the Audemars Piguet masterwatchmakers have developed a more accurate moon-phase display: an “astronomical” moon. The wheel driving the moon comprises 135 teeth instead of the usual 59. The larger number makes it possible to measure a lunar cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes, which is just 57 seconds and 20 hundredths of a second more than a true lunar
cycle. This system thus requires a one-day correction just once every 122 years and 44 days!
Base Calibre 2120 The impressive complexity of the above-described mechanisms – equation of time, sunrise and sunset indication, perpetual calendar and astronomical – puts the Royal Oak Equation of Time firmly at the pinnacle of the complicated watches that are the pride of Haute Horlogerie. These brilliant mechanisms are teamed here with a base calibre that is equally favoured by specialists: Calibre 2120. Measuring a mere 2.45 mm thick, it is quite simply the world’s thinnest mechanical selfwinding movement with a central rotor: a paragon of fineness, reliability and performance entirely developed, produced and exquisitely finished within the Audemars Piguet workshops in Le Brassus. The automatic winding is handled by a central rotor with a 21-carat gold segment. In addition to the sheer nobility of this metal, its weight also optimises bidirectional winding and thus the energy transmitted to the barrel – which in turn guarantees the power reserve. This effective winding system combined with the substantial power reserve ensures constant efficiency over a longer time period, and the quality of the winding also favourably influences the accuracy of the watch. This same concern for performance led Audemars Piguet to choose a central rotor rather than an integrated mini-rotor. This particular technical solution means that the oscillating weight runs on another level than the barrel and
49 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Tradition 7047 with tourbillon, fusee and silicon overcoil balance spring
T
he balance spring is a vital component of the heart of a watch movement. It is also the most decisive in terms of improving the precision of timemeasuring mechanisms. Its steady oscillations give the movement its rhythm and regulate the flow of time. The balance spring is best described as a very fine spiralshaped coil spring. Usually made of metal, it is vulnerable to shocks, magnetic fields and even the pull of gravity, which can cause warping. In 2006, Breguet launched the first wristwatches fitted with a balance spring and an escapement made of silicon, a substance with a number of advantages: • Silicon is totally impervious to magnetic fields. • The manufacturing process leading to a silicon balance spring yields a broad variety of configurations, facilitating its shaping in precise conformity with carefully calculated models. • Silicon balance springs are lighter than metal ones and thus less prone to warping caused by the pull of gravity. They are also highly resistant to corrosion and friction as well as impervious to rust. • All silicon components are subjected to a special process that markedly improves their resistance to handling and shocks. After nearly four years of service in various watch movements, Breguet’s flat silicon balance springs have posted absolutely
50 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
conclusive results, allowing the company to turn its attention to the development of springs featuring the famed “Breguet overcoil” terminal curve. Producing a curve in a sliver of silicon to give it a third dimension represents a quite considerable watchmaking exploit. Usually cut from flat silicon wafers, the springs remain simple flat strips. Silicon having none of the malleability of metal, getting it to form a bend rising up from the coil required a complete rethinking of the overall production process. The Breguet overcoil silicon balance spring will now be adding its specific advantages to those of silicon on all Breguet calibres, whatever their basic configuration. Today the new “Breguet overcoil silicon balance spring” is found in the Breguet Tradition 7047 timepiece with tourbillon and fusee-and-chain transmission. Recalling the constructional scheme of the first tourbillon pocket watches built by Breguet, this
model is presented in a platinum version with a movement treated with an anthracite-toned grey metal compound. Its surface finish results from a new and improved electrodeposition process involving an alloy of precious metals of the platinum group darker in hue than ruthenium. The fusee-and-chain transmission connected to the barrel maintains a constant force for as long as the watch is running. A number of patent applications cover the large tourbillon resonator at one o’clock on the watch face, one for a titanium balance and three relating to Breguet silicon balance springs. A further patent was awarded for the power-reserve indicator fitted directly on the barrel. Displaying impressive technical sophistication, the Breguet Tradition 7047 is the pride of Manufacture Breguet. As always an undisputed pioneer in horological research and development, Breguet’s creative
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Reine de Naples Ref. 8978BB/58/974 D00D Self-winding mechanical movement in a shape of a dove Cal. 78SO 54 jewels 65-hour power-reserve without strike or approx 50-hour power-reserve when the strike is on
51 51I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
The Legendary Memovox towards the conquest of space, to go ever higher and faster became the slogan. In this context, time became increasingly valuable and mankind in every sphere of activity was required to control it and every other aspect of existence. The invention of the first automatic movement with alarm function, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, was part of this historical context and it’s not a coincidence that it bears the signature of the company that has consistently perceived and expressed the signs of the times.
1967 – Memovox triangle The first Memovox triangle indicates the time the watch will ring. Automatic winding, date. Jaeger-leCoultre Calibre 825
B
rand enthusiasts and watch collectors had almost given up hope: the legendary Memovox, which had left an indelible mark on some of the brightest hours of the last 60 years, finally celebrates its comeback. Jaeger-LeCoultre waited until the first decade of the 21st century to issue a contemporary version of the Master Memovox, one of its most emblematic creations and symbolic of an action-oriented world. The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux also proposes a second model inspired by this landmark watch: the Master Memovox International, introduced for the brand’s 125th anniversary in 1958 and also known as the Memovox Worldtimer. This timepiece, which has an alarm
52 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
disc featuring different towns and regions, is produced in two limited editions in 18-carat pink gold and in steel. And in keeping with the traditions that have guided Jaeger-LeCoultre since its foundation, these new versions of the legendary watch are fitted with the company’s Calibre 956, which is the direct descendant of the first automatic alarm watch movement introduced in 1956. Constantly improved, it still represents the ultimate in accuracy, robustness and reliability.
This inherent quality of JaegerLeCoultre is accompanied by an extraordinary long-term vision, and as incredible as it might seem in an era characterised by fleeting trends, the 2010 Master Memovox models are fitted with a descendant of this legendary movement which has been unremittingly improved by the factory’s engineers and watchmakers to meet the latest technical requirements.
The man of action’s watch
This is a rare example of a movement that’s still in production more than 50 years after its creation. Under the changing designations marking each improved version, it has contributed to the success of such iconic round watches of the Master Control product line as the Master Grand Réveil and the Memovox Deep Sea.
The Memovox was born in the early 1950s, when people were trying to forget the trauma of World War II and to build new societies. As the world was looking
The latest generation of JaegerLeCoultre’s automatic alarm movement, Calibre 956, constitutes the mechanical heart of these two models. Introduced in
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Master Memovox International Q1418471 Mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 40mm stainless steel case Black dial with numerals, hour-markers and transferred city names Alligator leather strap with folding clasp
53 53I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Master Memovox Q1412430 mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 40 mm 18-carat pink gold case Silvered dial with numerals and hour-markers Alligator leather with folding clasp
54 I PREMIUM - Winter Autumn2010 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES 2008, it demonstrates all the qualities required of a mechanical movement of the 21st century in terms of accuracy, reliability and robustness. It has a large freesprung balance and a winding rotor on ceramic ball bearings that needs no lubrication or maintenance. Its gear wheels have a new kind of tooth profile that ensures smoother transmission. Calibre 956 has a frequency of 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 45 hours. Finally, it is equipped with a rapid datechange mechanism.
The automatic alarmwatch From the early 1950s, JaegerLeCoultre considered that rapidly changing lifestyles in which success meant wasting no time demanded an alarm function that was utterly reliable. Minds focused on reaching business objectives had to rely on a mechanical memory that would provide timely – and audible – reminders. The Memovox or “voice of memory” thus set out to conquer the public in 1950. It was fitted with a JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 489. The success of this revolutionary model encouraged the company’s watchmakers to pursue the development that in 1956 resulted in the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815 – the first automatic movement with an alarm function. From that moment on, the pioneers of modern civilization could concentrate on their missions, for even the winding of their watches was taken care of by a mechanism they could rely on completely. All they had to do was to wear the watch. This was when parking
1960 – Memovox Worldtime Created for the Manufacture’s 125th anniversary. Alarm, world time, date. JaegerLeCoultre Calibre 814
metres first appeared in city streets, and in some of the alarmwatch models the letter P replaced the alarm hand while a discreet ring announced it was time to feed the meter. Winning unanimous public approval and eagerly sought after by collectors several decades later,
this remarkable invention led the way for numerous improvements and new features. In 1959, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825 added a date aperture at 3 o’clock. In 1970 the Calibre 916 replaced its swinging weight by a 360° winding rotor and increased the balance frequency from 21,600
55 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES vph to 28,800 vph, which has become the norm for precision watches. In 1989, the company introduced its first movement featuring an alarm function along with a perpetual calendar: Calibre 919 comprised no fewer than 350 parts, including a bronze gong, which is unique in watchmaking. In 2005, the Master Grand RĂŠveil was fitted with two types of alarm. The wearer could choose between an audible ring, or, when in a meeting, a more discreet vibration. And since 2007, the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm, powered by Calibre 912, has featured a world time function as well as a digital display of the hour and minute to which the alarm has been set.
A face of timeless beauty While the movement has retained its essential mechanical characteristics, the styling has remained true to the watchmaking expression of supreme elegance. The flowing lines of the 40 mm case, the refinement of the lugs, the choice between pink gold or steel combine to highlight the absolute purity of the silvered dial where graceful hands point to the hours, minutes and seconds. The numerals 6, 9 and 12 enliven the face of the watch, while the 3 gives way to the date aperture. The alarm disc of the Master Memovox carries the arrow pointing to the alarm time, whereas in the Master Memovox International, the disc shows the representative cities and regions of our planet, just like the International model created for the 125th anniversary of the company. The solid case-back, struck with the new Master Control logo, ensures water resistance at a pressure of five atmospheres.
56 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
1950 – First Memovox watch It is easily identifiable by its roller-shaped lugs. JaegerleCoultre Calibre 489
Representing watchmaking in its purest form, the two Master Memovox models are available in 18-carat pink gold or steel, with the International version being issued in strictly limited series of
250 and 750 respectively. After all, such long-held dreams deserve to carry the inimitable scent of genuine exclusivity. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 Crafted, assembled and decorated by hand 28,800 vibrations per hour 45-hour power reserve 268 parts and 23 jewels
57 57I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
PanoInverse XL
Panoinverse XL Glashütte Original Caliber 66-04 movement Stainless steel case Black Louisiana alligator skin strap
T
he PanoInverse XL from
is evident at first glance—screw-
fine adjustment. The galvanized
Glashütte Original reveals
mounted gold chatons, each
silver fine adjustment is mounted
the inner beauty of the
fixed with three white screws
on a black balance bridge finished
mechanical movement at its heart
to the galvanized black three-
with galvanic white engraving,
by lifting an extraordinary element
quarter plate with Glashütte
and the regular oscillation of the
from the hidden interior to the
ribbing; applied white gold Arabic
screw balance beneath offers a
visible surface of the watch. Inner
numerals and indexes and white
fascinating glimpse of the beauty
beauty becomes outer beauty.
gold hands; an elegant power
of motion at the heart of the
reserve indicator and, above all,
Glashütte Original Caliber 66-04
the exceptional duplex swan-neck
movement.
The beauty of the PanoInverse XL
58 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
The off-center positioning of the PanoInverse XL dial gives the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment pride of place, allowing the connoisseur of fine mechanical watches to examine the element, which enables an extraordinarily precise adjustment of the movement’s beat and rate. It was the evident beauty of this perfectly finished functional element that inspired the
watchmakers to redesign the movement in such a way as to place ‘the butterfly’—as the duplex swan-neck fine adjustment is sometimes called—at the center of attention on the dial. The revelation of inner beauty results from the inversion of elements normally visible only through a sapphire crystal case back. This ambitious undertaking required the creation of new components and a substantial reworking of existing
components and subgroups. All three plates and the wheel-pinion subgroups for the movement and power reserve were reworked to fit new proportions. The exceptional PanoInverse XL is available in a polished stainless steel case with a matching black Louisiana alligator skin strap. www.glashuette-original.com
59 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
El Toro El Toro 322-00-3 43mm platinum case with ceramic bezel Leather strap with folding buckle Water resistant to 100m
Ref. 780-81 Movement caliber UN-78 Limited edition of 30 pieces
T
his high tech perpetual
friendly perpetual calendar ever
timeless dial design that inspired
calendar with a dual
produced and has passed the tests
its name.
time function and the
of time.
legendary in-house developed
The bezel and pushers are made
and manufactured self-winding
The striking aesthetic of El Toro
in ceramic. The squeletted hands
movement is the most consumer
combines modern materials with a
permit easy reading of all calendar
60 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
El Toro 322-00-3 Caliber UN-32 Self-winding with COSC certificate 34 jewels 45 h power-reserve
61 61I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES functions and the sapphire caseback allows to observe the mechanics of time. The only perpetual calendar that adjusts forward and backward in seconds over the quick corrector position of a single crown, even in the year 2100. The hour hand is adjusted instantly to a new local time with pushers (+) or (-) without taking the watch off the wrist or interfering with its time keeping. The arrow keeps track of one’s home or reference time. The oversized date, the day, the month and the year change instantly forward or backward when the hour hand is moved to a new local time across the dateline with pushers (+) or (-). The white gold rotor ensures that the watch is automatically wound with a power reserve of 45 hours. Chronometer Certificate C.O.S.C. The Perpetual GMT¹ undergoes the rigorous tests of the Swiss Official Chronometer Control, certifying to the reliability and accuracy of this exceptional timepiece. Available in a Limited Edition of 500 pieces in 18 ct red gold and platinum. www.ulysse-nardin.ch
El Toro 329-00 43mm 18 ct red gold case with ceramic bezel Leather strap with folding buckle Water resistant to 100m
62 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial 38.50 mm
S
ince the launch of the OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra collection, it has been warmly received by watch enthusiasts who have raved about its blend of eye-catching design excellence and innovating watchmaking technology.
these new Aqua Terras feature the trademark “Teak Concept” dial whose vertical lines are reminiscent of the wooden decks on luxury boats.
watches have facetted 18 Ct gold hands with diamond-polished sides and brushed tops; the hour and minute hands are coated with Super-LumiNova.
OMEGA now introduces a number of stunning new family members: the mid-sized Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial 38.50 mm watches.
The Seamaster Aqua Terra CoAxial is powered by OMEGA’s revolutionary Co-Axial technology which delivers longer service intervals and outstanding longterm chronometric performance. Each timepiece is a COSC-certified chronometer.
Their polished screw-in sapphire crystal casebacks make it possible to appreciate the precision performance of the Co-Axial movements which power the watches.
Like the rest of the collection,
All of the mid-sized Co-Axial
64 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
The new timepieces are available in a number of distinct configurations, two of which are highlighted here.
PREMIUM I WATCHES 231.18.39.21.51.001 OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8500 38.5mm stainless steel case with 52 diamonds on bezel Vertically brushed lacquered black dial Black alligator leather strap with a foldover clasp
65 65I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Red gold The OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial in 18 Ct red gold combines the sparkle of diamonds with the technical innovation and excellence of the luxury-finished OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8501. The movement has a special luxury finish with an 18 Ct gold rotor and balance. Its bezel is paved set with 52 fullcut diamonds and eleven single-cut diamonds mark the hours. There is a brushed 18 Ct gold applied date window at 3 o’clock. The lacquered teak-black dial has vertical lines associated with the watches in the Aqua Terra collection. The watch is presented on either a brushed 18 Ct gold bracelet with OMEGA’s patented screw-and-pin
66 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
system and a safety clasp or a black alligator leather strap with a foldover clasp.
Stainless steel The stainless steel edition of the Seamaster Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial watch also dazzles with diamonds. Like its 18 Ct red gold counterpart, it has a brushed and polished case and a bezel paved with 52 full-cut diamonds. It also features the eleven singlecut diamond hour markers. The stainless steel version has a vertically brushed lacquered black dial. At the heart of the watch is the exclusive OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8500 working in conjunction with a free sprung-balance for unparalleled timekeeping
performance. The diamond-enhanced stainless steel watch is offered with choice of a black alligator leather strap with a foldover clasp or a stainless steel bracelet with OMEGA’s patented screw-and-pin system and a safety clasp.
The Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial Collection The watches in OMEGA’s Aqua Terra Jewelry Co-Axial Collection are an elegant expression of the art and science of horology. They combine contemporary design, the luster of diamonds and the CoAxial technology which has been driving the revolution in mechanical watches at OMEGA for more than a decade. www.omegawatches.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES 231.55.39.21.51.001 OMEGA Co-Axial caliber 8500 38.5mm 18k red gold case Vertically brushed lacquered black dial 18 Ct gold bracelet with OMEGA’s patented screw-and-pin system and a safety clasp
67 67I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Sotirio Bulgari
Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantieme Perpetuel Caliber BVL 465
I
n the mid 19th century, a timeless elegance was born with Sotirio Bulgari. He sensed the new spirit of his time and, assembling his formidable arsenal of artistic and artisanal skills, left Greece for Corfu and then went on to the recently unified Italy, land of the Grand Tour. Driven by his entrepreneurial spirit, he was capable of overcoming challenges and conventions, continuously redefining the
68 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
concepts of “avant-garde” and “luxury”. In 2009, on the 125th anniversary of its foundation, Bulgari dedicated a watch to this multicultural trailblazer, businessman and aesthete: a watch as extraordinary as him. The Sotirio Bulgari features a classic style reinterpreted in a contemporary way. A perfect synthesis of innovative design and manufacturing “savoir-faire”; it is distinguished by is sophisticated
workmanship and great attention to every detail. The new collection dedicated to this man is Bulgari’s new version of a formal watch, featuring manufacture movements, dials finished with exclusive treatments and a unique design of the case, whose bezel is distinguished by the absence of the Bulgari logo. www.bulgari.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
YA126202 44mm Stainless steel case with black PVD coating Black dial with green/red/green web at 3 o’clock and shiny G frame Stainless steel bracelet with black PVD coating
69 69I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Sotirio Bulgari 125th Anniversary Edition 18kt yellow gold case
70 I PREMIUM - Winter Autumn2010 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Sotiro Bulgari Date Retrograde Stainless steel case
71 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
U-Play Collection
Interchangeable bezels and straps available in three different tones and materials.
U
-Play, the new line of Gucci timepieces for women, designed by Creative Director Frida Giannini, is distinguished by its functionality and versatility. These two features not only make this watch practical, but also a stylish and an enduring companion for the ever-increasing pace of global living. The concept behind the U-Play collection lies in the interchangeable design of the components, which allows the wearer to change the combination of colours and materials to suit the occasion or to express her personal taste. This feature enables each piece to be individually interpreted or transformed – a mark of the excellence of modern watch-making, balancing form and
72 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
function, technology and design. The new watch, defined by a rounded dial with engraved monogram and tapered hands, is embellished with a decorative
metallic horsebit motif, one of Gucci’s most iconic symbols. Each model comes with an interchangeable bezel and bracelet set in three different tones and
PREMIUM I WATCHES
YA129501 27mm stainless steel case with white lizard leather bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial White lizard leather strap
YA129502 27mm stainless steel case with black patent leather bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial Black patent leather strap
73 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Basic model with stainless steel bangle that comes with an interchangeable bezel and bracelet set
YA129402 35mm stainless steel case with mauve rubber bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial Mauve GG rubber strap
YA129403 35mm stainless steel case with white calf leather bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial White calf leather strap
YA129503 27mm stainless steel case with beige satin bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial Beige satin strap
74 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES materials. The watch is available in two versions: the basic small-size model (27 mm diameter) features a polished stainless steel bangle with an interchangeable set of beige satin, black patent leather and white lizard skin parts; the larger model (35 mm diameter) has interchangeable parts in white Guccissima leather, blue ostrich skin, mauve rubber and black patent leather. The U-Play collection offers an exclusive choice for women seeking timeless, high-performance accessories, in terms of both technical composition and aesthetics. The distinct, feminine design with its light, modern materials in intense, fashionable colours gives this timepiece an air of creative, contemporary elegance. The ingenious interchangeable design adds extra allure, allowing each woman to instantly create a new Gucci watch for any occasion. www.gucci.com
YA129401 35mm stainless steel case with blue ostrich paw leather bezel Silver sun brushed dial with interlocking G dial Blue ostrich paw leather strap
75 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Emotion
20700SE12 Automatic movement, ETA 2671 Stainless steel square dial 29 x 29 mm 72 Top Wesselton diamond-set bezel Black dial with 11 diamond hour markers Stainless steel bracelet
P
resented for the first time
first Emotion ladies’ collection,
pearl dial, and a truly classic
at Baselworld 2010, the
exclusively round until now,
plaited metallic bracelet or satin or
new, shaped Emotion from
this new square timepiece, with
leather strap.
Louis Erard has everything it takes
its very Audrey Hepburn style,
to make it a must for beautiful,
seemed the natural next step for
Both casual and wildly chic, the
elegant women. The smallest
the Le Noirmont watchmaker.
Emotion is ideal for all occasions,
of the brand’s creations – only
from day-to-day activities to red
29 X 29 mm and yet housing an
Because less is more, it has
carpet events. Timeless and ultra-
authentic mechanical movement
only retained what is absolutely
feminine, it is to lovers of fine
– it impresses with its grandiose
necessary to make it a valued
Swiss mechanics what the little
allure and style!
possession for the eternal woman:
black dress is to sophisticated
refined lines, an authentically
women. Moreover, as the
simple lacquered or mother-of-
renowned fashion journalist Suzy
Three years after launching the
76 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
20700SE04 Automatic movement, ETA 2671 Stainless steel square dial 29 x 29 mm 72 Top Wesselton diamond-set bezel Mother of pearl dial Stainless steel bracelet
77 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES Menkes has stressed, “the little black dress demands a simple line, a perfect cut and a touch of character”. A perfect description of Louis Erard’s latest creation! An Egeria of timeless classicism, this “must have” timepiece displays an uncompromising simplicity, which does not undermine the added touch of glamour when the dial or bezel is adorned with very pure diamonds. Lovers of fine watchmaking, however, might prefer the beautifully refined 18K rose gold case with its genuine crocodile or satin strap. www.louis-erard.com
20700SE11 Automatic movement, ETA 2671 Stainless steel square dial 29 x 29 mm 72 Top Wesselton diamond-set bezel Silver dial with 11 diamond hour markers White satin strap
78 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
20700SE12 Automatic movement, ETA 2671 Stainless steel square dial 29 x 29 mm 72 Top Wesselton diamond-set bezel Black dial with 11 diamond hour markers Stainless steel bracelet
20700AA14 Automatic movement, ETA 2671 Stainless steel square dial 29 x 29 mm Mother of pearl dial Pink satin strap
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Coloseo Black Racing
Coloseo Black Racing: ETA quartz chronograph movement 44 mm stainless steel case with titanium PVD finishing Carbon dial Black leather strap with white stitching on deploying buckle Limited Edition, 240 pieces
T
he Coloseo Black Racing
enthusiasts.
2010 is the latest addition to
The class of 2010 echoes the
the Black Racing series and
inimitable style developed in the
will get its first taste of the track
earlier editions, particularly the
on the wrists of the best drivers in
stunning black case, but adds
the world at the 2010 Le Mans 24
a graduated tachometric scale
Hours.
from 400 km/h around the dial’s circumference. Other features
SAINT HONORE ambassador Paul
include a carbon dial, oversized
Belmondo helped launch this
numerals that make it supremely
prestigious limited series in 2006,
easy to read, a top-stitched leather
a collection inspired by the world’s
strap, an engraved Black Racing
most celebrated automobile races.
back with exclusive logo, and blue
In 2010, only 240 (10 X 24) of
hands.
these watches will be available for the most passionate motor sports
80 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
But the greatest innovation on
this timekeeping masterpiece is the new approach to telling time with the disc chronograph: the counters at 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock were specifically envisioned and designed to resemble a race car dashboard.The counters take the form of two arced windows where a rotary disc turns showing the small second at 3 o’clock and total minutes at 9 o’clock. A true, high-powered race car…to be elegantly worn on the wrist. www.saint-honore-paris.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Series 800™ SUB-SEA™ MOVADO SERIES 800™ SUB-SEA™ Swiss quartz chronograph movement 42mm Solid Performance Steel brushed/polished case with blue anodized aluminum fixed sport bezel Blue retrograde chronograph dial Solid Performance Steel sport link bracelet
MOVADO SERIES 800™ SUB-SEA™ Swiss quartz 3-hand movement 40mm Solid Performance Steel brushed/polished case with gold-plated unidirectional bezel and crown, with gold-plated pushers Black dial Solid Performance Steel sport link bracelet
L
ast summer, Movado proudly
Now for 2010, three outstanding
launched Sub-Sea™, an
new men’s models join the Sub-
exceptionally well-priced line
Sea family. The eye-catching new
of classic sport timepieces with
42 mm solid Performance Steel
unidirectional bezels and precise
Sub-Sea retrograde chronograph
Swiss quartz movements. Crafted
is topped by a fixed sport bezel
in solid Performance Steel™ the
in blue or black aluminum, color-
Sub-Sea performance collection
matched to the dial. The striking
includes rugged bracelet watches
dial features a red, center-mounted
and chronographs for men, and
retrograde 30-seconds counter
women’s models sparkling with
hand, retrograde 60-minutes and
diamonds.
5-minutes counters, small seconds subdial, luminescent markers
Equipped with sapphire crystals
and rhodium-plated hour/minute
and screw-down crowns, all are
hands, date display and bright red
water resistant to 20 ATM.
accents.
82 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
New for 2010, the original Sub-Sea 42 mm chronograph and 40 mm 3-hand bracelet are now offered in elegant two-tone models featuring gold-plated rotating bezels and crowns. Their black dials are richly detailed by gold-toned hands and concave dot, luminescent markers, printed white minute track and date display. The hefty solid Performance Steel bracelets on all three new models sport a contrasting brushed/polished finish and butterfly deployment clasp. www.movado.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Dive Master 500 Black Ice Chrono & Mecha
P
recision timing meets diving
and the screw-down crown and
in the new Dive Master
pushers. The chronograph function
500 Black Ice Chrono, now
features enhanced legibility and
equipped with a chronograph
ease of use with central hands for
movement in the same ultra-
the timing of seconds and minutes
rugged and highly functional 43
around the dial, and a separate
mm sport watch from Victorinox
12-hour counter at 10 o’clock, with
Swiss Army.
a date window and small second at 6 o’clock.
The 500 meters (50 ATM) water resistance, which gives its name
The mechanical version of the Dive
to the Dive Master 500 line, is
Master 500 introduced last year is
maintained in this chrono version
complemented this summer with a
through the screw-in caseback
new model featuring an exclusive
84 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Deep Blue dial and matching Swiss-made genuine rubber strap, powered with a Swiss-made mechanical self-winding movement. The trademark Black Ice PVD coating now extends to the entire Dive Master 500 collection, including the new quartz models with a redesigned and enriched dial taking cues from the mechanical models, and new half-opened luminescent hands. www.victorinoxswissarmy.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE MECHA Swiss-made mechanical selfwinding movement (ETA 2892-A2) 43 mm stainless steel case with Black Ice PVD coating Deep Blue dial and matchinggenuine rubber strap Water resistant to 500 m
DIVE MASTER 500 BLACK ICE CHRONO Swiss-made quartz chronograph movement (ETA 251.262) 43 mm stainless steel case with Black Ice PVD coating Orange dial and orange genuine rubber strap Water resistant to 500 m
85 85I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Collection
Khaki Team Earth designed in collaboration with Harrison Ford
Harrison Ford and Hamilton create new watches in support of Team Earth’s timely call to action on pressing environmental issues
convened coalition called Team
Team Earth’s global call to address
Earth. Created as a platform to
five key issues, beginning with
address some of the most pressing
climate change and moving on to
environmental issues of our
water, food, health and waste.
T
action to protect the environment
day, Team Earth is committed to catalyzing personal and collective
To do MORE
he new Hamilton Khaki Team
via the connective power of the
The Team Earth initiative aims to
Earth Collection, designed in
worldwide web. Under the motto,
inspire individuals everywhere to
collaboration with Harrison
“It’s time to DO”, a significant
do more to protect the future of
Ford, is geared toward supporting
portion of the proceeds generated
the planet and less to threaten
a Conservation International (CI)
by the new watch will go toward
it. Harrison Ford has been on the
86 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES board of directors of CI for 18 years. The Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Collection is the second series of watches created in collaboration with the American actor to benefit the work of the organization. Launched in 2008, the Hamilton Khaki Conservation Collection was extremely popular and the funds raised were able to contribute to some major conservation breakthroughs driven by CI. These have included the protection of 36,000 hectares of critical coastal land in South Africa and 2.6 million hectares in Namibia’s Sperrgebiet National Park, as well as the creation of important protected marine areas in Brazil and Equator. Harrison Ford explains, “I am proud to serve Conservation International as a campaigner. The first collection we created together with Hamilton proved a success. And Hamilton, by supporting CI’s mission, is helping to achieve major conservation outcomes.” Hamilton is looking forward to making a difference by supporting Team Earth’s efforts to encourage people everywhere to take care of their environment.
H60455533 Automatic 2824 42mm stainless steel case Brown leather strap Water resistant to 100 m
Less is more Inspired by the Team Earth drive to encourage everyone to use less energy, the Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Collection contains simple design elements. Easily visible khaki-colored numbering stands out against the black background of the dial. Green and brown leather straps allude to the power of Nature, while a stainless steel alternative expresses durability. A Swiss-made automatic movement ETA 2824 and resistance to magnetic fields echo the theme of longevity and
H60455133 Automatic 2824 42mm stainless steel case Stainless steel bracelet Water resistant to 100 m
sustainability. The case back is closed, engraved with the words, “It’s time to DO”, and signed by Harrison Ford, a timely reminder to all wearers, all of the time. www.hamiltonwatch.com
87 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Veloci-T Ladies
T
issot is committed to sharing the benefits of the new C01.211 ETA movement with both sexes and the new Tissot Veloci-T Lady seamlessly fuses femininity with dynamic performance. A modern colour combination of white and rose PVD dresses this precision Swiss-made automatic chronograph immaculately. Lady wearers are happy to show their feminine side and are also visibly in touch with their time thanks to a round window on the case back
88 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
revealing the innovative balance wheel. This watch perfectly mirrors the revolutionary new movement’s capacity to simplify the beauty of true craftsmanship without compromising performance.
Dedicated design detail The Tissot Veloci-T Lady pays tribute to the sporty roots of this popular range with intricate detail on the dial and bezel, as well as a comfortable, sculpted rubber strap. Circles framing the dial provide a timely reminder of the
racetrack inspiration. A finely marked tachymeter effectively communicates the dedication to precision shared by top-level motor sport and fine watchmaking, while applied indices and a textured crown confirm a keen eye for detail. The Tissot Veloci-T Lady is set to accelerate straight into the fast lane of style and discerning taste. www.tissot.ch
PREMIUM I WATCHES Veloci-T Lady Swiss-made chronograph automatic ETA C01.211 movement 316L stainless steel case with see-through back Bezel with rose PVD plating White dial with rose gold PVD detail Water resistant to 10 bar (100 m / 330 feet) White rubber bracelet
89 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
HB-5012.1 HB 5012 1502213 6 hands chronograph quartz movement All polished stainless steel case Textured dial Black leather strap with crocodile patter and pink buckle
HB 5012 1502214 6 hands chronograph quartz movement All polished stainless steel case with rose gold IP Textured dial White leather strap with crocodile patter and pink buckle
F
or women with sporting
60-second counters. An attractive
Textured or mother of Pearl dial
tastes, this curvaceous
crocodile-pattern leather strap
with luminescent hands / All
chronograph features a steel
complete with pin buckle secures
polished stainless steel case with
or rose gold-plated case topped
this delightfully feminine model
or without Crystal, version in
by a bezel set with crystals and
firmly to a dainty wrist.
rose gold IP / Leather strap with crocodile pattern and pin buckle /
framing a textured or mother-ofpearl dial with luminescent hands
6 hands chronograph quartz
and 30-minute, 24-hour and
movement (Min/Sec/24Hour) /
90 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
3 ATM. www.hugoboss.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES HB 5012 1502215 6 hands chronograph quartz movement All polished stainless steel case set with crystals on bezel Mother of pearl dial Purple leather strap with crocodile patter and pink buckle
HB-5012_1502216 6 hands chronograph quartz movement All polished stainless steel case set with crystals on bezel Mother of pearl dial Cream leather strap with crocodile patter and pink buckle
91 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
The Synergy of Technology and Watch Styling
S
ince 1895, Rotary Watches has cemented its position as a true pioneer within watch design. By implementing innovative technologies and working with the industry’s most high profile designers, it has received acclaim for its design-led range. To celebrate the new decade and the brand’s international expansion, it has launched the “Rotary Evolution” range of truly avant-garde statement watches that offer impressive travelrelated functionality and striking good looks. Encompassing a capsule collection of travel-centric timepieces, this new sub-brand is the result of three years of design and development resulting in a truly ground-breaking cluster of contemporary timepieces. “TZ1” is a family of chronograph watches in three colourways: stainless steel, PVD rose gold and PVD yellow gold. Remaining true to the essence of the Evolution brand, each dial has striking red dial accents. The chronograph movement allows fractions of time to be measured and is therefore aimed at those choosing a more sports-inspired piece. Series “TZ2” represents the most innovative of the models and includes the patented and award-winning round and rectangular rotating case strap watches, dubbed the “Rotary Revelation”. Individually powered by two separate movements, the
92 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Revelations GS02952_02_04 Quartz movement Rose gold case Revelation reversible dial allowing for two different times and style Brown leather strap
timepieces allow the wearer to retain two separate times and achieve two distinctive looks in one watch. The concurrent theme is “day” and “night” as each watch has a contrasting dark dial on one side and a light dial on the other. Although the majority of the models in this series have been designed to appeal to men, two mid-size Austrian crystal set, round models have been launched in stainless steel with black croco leather strap and PVD rose gold with brown croco leather straps for ladies.
The trilogy is concluded with TZ3, arguably the “hero” of the collection. Consisting of a cluster of trio-timer models, each of the watches features a futuristic grid-effect dial that includes two separately-powered mini dials resulting in an ability to maintain three separate times. Crafted in stainless steel, PVD rose gold and black ion plating, these generously-proportioned and design-led watches are finished with a ribbed rubber strap and deployment clasp. www.rotarywatches.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
93 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
T
Airmaster
itoni presents a new model in its well-known Airmaster collection. The pure reduced design – characteristic for this collection – is enriched by the gold plated top bezel and bicolour bracelet. The oversize roman applied index at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock add a stylish touch to the simple look of the dial. Whereas the stones applied at the remaining hours balance exquisitely its appearance and create a harmonious play of discreet reflexes. The collection’s name „Airmaster“ and the Titoni logo are also visible on the dial: a proud sign that stands for the Swiss quality standards and the cutting-edge technology that characterize the family business since generations. The focus of this collection lies in the production of masterpieces with a mechanical core. Technology is combined with a pure and reduced design for a timeless watch that gives a new pace to everyday life. The Titoni five-petal flower brand emblem appears on the crown and is a sign for the special care for which Titoni’s collections are known for. No watch leaves the Swiss headquarters in Grenchen, Switzerland, without successfully passing a series of quality checks involving cutting-edge technology. This attention to details and excellent precision are ensured by Titoni’s efforts in bringing as much of the manufacturing process as possible in Grenchen – from
94 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
movement assembly through to shipping of the finished watches. www.titoni.ch
Airmaster Tradition 83909 SY-063 Automatic ETA 2824-2 movement 38.5mm steel and yellow 5 M gold plated case White dial with stones Steel and yellow 5 M gold plated bracelet
PREMIUM I WATCHES
95 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
ck glam
K9423101 Polished stainless steel case White Dial White leather strap
K9423107 Polished stainless steel case Black dial Black leather strap
K9423162 Polished stainless steel case Beige dial Beige satin strap
S
mooth. Essential. ck glam. Inspired by transparency and purity. The simplicity of form, the essence of fresh design. The movement is housed in a polished steel case finished in mineral glass, which allows you to see through the left or right side.
96 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
K9423193 Polished stainless steel case Light grey dial Light grey satin strap
A white, black, beige, or light grey dial, with nickel polished hands clearly show hour and minute. The central dial gives the illusion of the strap continuing under the glass, which is available in white or black leather, and beige or light
grey satin with an updated pin buckle closure. Available in lady size. Water sesistant up to 30 meters. www.ck.com
PREMIUM I WATCHES
The Drab Collection
The Platform Drab 3 hand Japanese quartz with light 100 meter stainless steel case with hardened mineral crystal, and triple gasket crown Solid stainless steel bracelet with custom locking clasp
N
ixon introduces a unique and
to each piece. Through normal wear
advanced applied finish. A
and tear the finish will scratch and
durable coating designed to
chip showing what a life well lived
wear with age is generously applied
individual and custom version unique to you. www.nixonnow.com
looks like and creating a completely
97 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Innovative designs Fall/Winter 2010 Mila Silver Star
Mila Silver Starglance Starglance Two Tone
T
he new collection for the 2010 fall/winter season is thoroughly innovative. Whether we are talking about timepieces or jewelry, the perfect combination of materials and designs is set to propel the Esprit Timewear & Jewel brand to even greater heights of popularity. Both the timepieces and the jewelry boast new details and a common design theme, meaning they are tailor-made for matching jewelry-and-watch combinations.
Ladies The ladies’ watches in the Essential
98 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
range feature an even greater number and diversity of smaller, feminine sizes than ever before, making them particularly suitable as fine items of jewelry. The Glamour range focuses squarely on medium sizes with delicate set stones. Chain-look straps decorated with studs reflect global fashion trends and demonstrate innovative design.
Essential links Adria / Cinecitta Slender watches with open links on the strap, Adria and Cinecitta boast a young, elegant look –.
Cinecitta has a TV-shaped case featuring a design that picks up on the zirconia stones decorating the links of the strap. The dials of both watches are fully set with zirconia – an attention-grabbing touch.
Essential classics Mila Silver Star / Mila Silver Milva Silver and Milva Silver Star are classic ladies’ watches with 35mm cases and fine embossed dials bearing the Esprit logo. The range offers both models with stone-set bezels and delicately graduated dials and versions without stone-set bezels but
PREMIUM I WATCHES graduated with 12 zirconia stones. As an alternative to the stainless steel strap, a gloss-finish crocodile leather strap is also available.
Cool Chic
Essential glamour Starglance / Starglance Two Tone An ideal Christmas gift, Starglance is a multi-functional watch in a 35mm case with a five-link metal strap. The graduated markers on the bezel are set with small zirconia stones, while the centre portion of the dial gleams with fine mother-of-pearl. Also available are two-tone or different-coloured versions in stainless steel and leather, in the form of the Starglance Two Tone. Any watch in the Starglance range makes the perfect companion to a Broadway ring.
Adria / Cinecitta
Essential Glamour Rosegold Vanity Rosegold Vanity is a glamorous medium-size ladies’ watch in rose gold and brown. A new stone setting on the bezel adds a glittering touch, while cubeshaped zirconia stones decorate the hour markers, which are interspersed with round zirconia stones. The dial is styled to give the appearance of the sun’s rays, and raised hour markers provide another eye-catching highlight. The strap is made of silk-matt leather with a snakeskin effect.
Stud trend: Rock it! With their fashionable two-part calfskin leather straps covered in studs, the Rock it! watches are pure glam rock. The powerful lugs on the case, the pyramid pattern on the dial and the studs on the hour markers all add to the
striking look. For those who feel less is more, the models are also available with single leather straps in other colours.
Chains ‘n‘ Leather Rough Chic Black / Rough Chic Silver Chains and leather are the theme of the Rough Chic watch range. The strap, which is made of calfskin leather and features an interwoven chain, continues behind the square case of the watch. Anyone preferring the feel of steel against their skin can opt for the model which comes with
a simple large-link chain strap, minus the leather. The dial, which comes in white or black, features four zirconia stones for a touch of glamour.
Chains ‘n‘ Leather Cool Chic The Cool Chic models are dominated by chains and leather, elaborately interwoven with each other. The round case and four zirconia stones on the dial reflect a hint of superior elegance. The calfskin leather strap comes in black, natural brown and white. www.esprit.com
99 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
A
Jelly Tatoo
watch like a tattoo on your skin! This is the spirit of the new Jelly Tatoo collection: light and captivating, these watches wrap around the wrist, illuminating it with colorful flashes, with oriental style designs. The boldest will be able to select Wild Soul (Tiger & Dragon), a virtual flight between a tiger and a dragon, whose daring glares are divided only by a dial, lambito da una lingua di fuoco. More romanticism in the Magic Cylider models – like the one with wizards from which red roses spring out – and Butterfly Heart, light and fragile like a brokenhearted butterfly. Courage & Pride displays a daring samurai, dignified and noble and with an inscrutable glare, and a proud geisha. Lastly, for lovers, the Pin-Up in love model, with a provocative and piratical girl flirting among hearts and love phrases. ″The colors, the designs and the intensity of these themes convey the image of a world of playful passions and deep values like the oriental one″, explains Mara Poletti, President of ToyWatch. ″We wanted to design a″light″ collection, drawing somehow inspiration from the world of tattoos, to that set of icons people love painting on their skin to celebrate an important event in their life. With the Jelly Tattoo models people will be able to express their feelings, also changing continuously their mind!″. The Jelly Tattoo watches are available in the solo tempo version,
100 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Jelly Tattoo Butterfly Heart JYT04WH Interchangeable straps with steel butterfly clasp 40mm watch face
with 3 hands, colored plasteramic case, tone on tone graduated bazel. The calendar on the dial is at 3 o’clock with magnifying lens,
while the winding crown is made of steel. All models are water resistant, up to 5 atm. www.toy-watch.it
PREMIUM I WATCHES Jelly Tattoo Magician Hat WInterchangeable straps with steel butterfly clasp 40mm watch face
Jelly Tattoo Courage and Pride JYT05WH Interchangeable straps with steel butterfly clasp 40mm watch face
Jelly Tattoo Wild Soul JYT03WH Interchangeable straps with steel butterfly clasp 40mm watch face
Jelly Tattoo Pin-up in Love JYT01WH Interchangeable straps with steel butterfly clasp 40mm watch face
101 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Full Blooded FULL BLOODED CARAMEL Celebrate life and creative endeavour with this effervescent fashion accessory! This superb Irony Diaphane Chrono features a rugged yet elegant bracelet fashioned of caramel-coloured anodised aluminium links and a foldover clasp. The bracelet holds a transparent clear plastic case with crown and chrono pushers in stainless steel 316L. An elegant caramel-coloured aluminium bezel frames a sun brushed caramel dial. Set within a white minute ring on the dial are 12 sparkling white crystals indicating all hours. A black-on-white date window is positioned between 8 and 9 o’clock. Caramel-coloured, creusé chrono counters and the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock feature white numerals and indexes and silver hands. A slim silver central chrono seconds hand complements the chrono counters, and bold, tieshaped silver hour and minute hands with superlite highlights mark the time of day.
FULL BLOODED BLUEBERRY Bright, bold purple art for the wrist: this striking Irony Diaphane Chrono is a declaration of funloving independence. Its bracelet, fashioned of anodised purple aluminium, has a foldover clasp and grips a transparent clear plastic case with crown and chrono pushers in stainless steel 316L. The matching purple anodised aluminium bezel frames a sun brushed purple dial with a fine
102 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
FULL BLOODED CARAMEL SVCK4047AG
white minute ring. Dazzling white crystals mark all hours, and a black-on-white date window appears between 8 and 9 o’clock. Purple creusé chrono counters and
the small seconds counters at 6 o’clock feature white numerals and indexes and silver hands. A slim silver central chrono seconds hand complements the chrono counters
PREMIUM I WATCHES
FULL BLOODED BLUEBERRY SVCK4048AG
FULL BLOODED RASPBERRY SVCK4050AG
and bold, tie-shaped silver hour and minute hands with superlite highlights mark the time of day.
FULL BLOODED RASPBERRY No doubt about it: pink is the colour of the moment. This audacious Irony Diaphane Chrono takes a fashionable stand. The
lightweight pink link bracelet is fashioned of anodised aluminium and grips a transparent clear plastic case. A smooth aluminium bezel in a matching shade of pink frames a sun brushed pink dial with a fine white minute ring and 12 white crystals set to indicate all hours. A date window with black numerals on a white ground is positioned midway between 8 and
9 o’clock. Creusé chrono counters and the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock feature pink subdials, white numerals and indexes, and silver hands. A slim silver central chrono seconds hand complements the chrono counters and bold, tie-shaped silver hour and minute hands with superlite highlights mark the time of day. www.swatch.com
103 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I WATCHES
Flik Flak Hello Kitty
Cute coolness and a passion for fashion The iconic Sanrio character Hello Kitty has again chosen Flik Flak to ensure that every minute counts this year. Spring 2010 sees the launch of two Flik Flak watches for young girls, plus two in a new full-size scuba-style shape for older children. Three further models will be available in Fall 2010, each one accompanied by a glittery Hello Kitty purse. Designed to capture the hearts of girls all over the world, Flik Flak watches are
104 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
made in Switzerland and perfectly equipped to survive the knocks and bumps of playtime.
Hello Kitty Flowers For the youngest fans there is a delicious concoction of flowers and strawberries in Hello Kitty Flowers. the watch case and buckle stand out in fruity red, the words ‘Hello Kitty’ on the textile strap are decorated with flowers, and Hello Kitty has even swapped her bow for some brightly coloured blooms.
If the watch gathers some mud from a spontaneous game of hideand-seek in the garden, a whirl in the washing machine will restore its former beauty.
Hello Kitty Dancer Also for little girls is the scuba-style Hello Kitty Dancer, which combines two beloved childhood images, the teddy bear and the ballerina, in vanilla and strawberry ice-cream colours. Hello Kitty gets to dress up as a ballerina for this wristwatch, complete with pink tutu and ballet
PREMIUM I WATCHES slippers. Sharing the limelight on the other side of the rotating bezel is a cute ballerina teddy. Stars appear everywhere – across the textile strap, around the bezel, even in the centre of the dial.
Hello Kitty Angelic & Hello Kitty Devilish In the limited editions Hello Kitty Angelic and Hello Kitty Devilish, the adorable cartoon figure demonstrates her mischievous side. There will be just 20,000 of each of these scuba-style timepieces geared to children aged eightplus. Both models have synthetic leather straps embellished with ‘Hello Kitty’ in Gothic type and a sinuous filigree and heart design. The Angelic lettering finishes with an angel wing, while its Devilish counterpart has the devil’s tail. So, which will prove more popular with young time-tellers? Will it be Hello Kitty Angelic, with its pure white strap and dial, glittery silver bezel and Hello Kitty playing cupid? Or will the dramatic black Hello Kitty Devilish win the day, with its gleaming gold-hued bezel and a cheeky Hello Kitty complete with horns? Nothing is ever black and white, as the dial on each of the watches, with its angel wing and devil’s tail, reminds us. For safekeeping, both versions come in a special transparent presentation box, filled with protective Hello Kitty shaped confetti.
New treasures for Fall 2010 Three brightly coloured Flik Flak Hello Kitty watches for the youngest group of ‘little ladies’ will be available in the Fall. There is a scuba-style model with a
magenta strap, and two standard designs, one with a purple strap and one with a white strap. As with all Flik Flak watches for younger children, the colour of the hour hand corresponds to that of the hour numbers on the dial, while the minute hand matches the minute numbers. All of these watches have unicolour textile straps with glittery buckles and can be stored as coveted treasures in an accompanying Hello Kitty purse oozing pink shiny gorgeousness that little girls will love. Something to look forward to…
What makes Flik Flak tick Flik Flak is the world’s best-selling
children’s watch and has been keeping youngsters all over the world on track since 1987. It was the first child’s watch to translate the concept of telling the time into accessible fun and entertainment. The Flik Flak watches are all Swiss made, featuring a robust aluminium case and scratchresistant mineral glass. Their power comes from Swiss quartz movements and they are shockresistant and machine washable at a temperature of up to 40º C. Flik Flak is a brand of the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch producer and distributor, with 157 production sites in Switzerland. www.flikflak.com
105 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
BZERO1 10 year anniversary
O
n the occasion of its 10th anniversary, the B.zero1 line celebrates with a restyling of its distinctive forms and a reinvigorated quest for innovative materials. Represented by the unexpected combination of ceramic and pink
108 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
gold, the new B.zero1 stands out immediately for its modern interpretation of a Bulgari classic. This new version of B.zero1 presents the two gears at the extremities of the band, with the traditional double Bulgari logo engraved into pink gold,
while the central form comes in either black or white ceramic. This delightful combination draws inspiration from the famous Chandra collection, launched by Bulgari in 1994, whose name in Sanskrit means ‘moon’, the soft white glow of which
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES B.zero1 pink gold and black ceramic 4-band ring
B.zero1 pink gold and white ceramic 4-band ring
109 109I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
B.zero1 pink gold ring with pavé diamonds (2,39 cts)
B.zero1 white gold ring with pavé diamonds (2,39 cts)
110 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
B.zero1 white gold cuff bracelet with pavĂŠ diamonds (1,70 cts)
B.zero1 pink gold and steel cuff bracelet
B.zero1 pink gold cuff bracelet
is evoked by the porcelain material.
with socialites and celebrities of the
This innovative and provocative line of
fashion world.
jewels was rendered in white, smooth
Ceramic carries with it the aura of a
porcelain molded into variously shaped
sophisticated and venerable tradition,
beads and curved elements decorated
while at the same time remaining
in relief. Chandra collection was
consummately contemporary and
launched with a sensational party held
wearable on any occasion. The pink
at Bulgari in Paris, immortalized in the
gold that frames it lends a touch of
film PrĂŞt-Ă -Porter (directed by Robert
elegant flair to a jewel that is at once
Altman) where movie stars mingled
trendy and understated.
The B.zero1 line welcomes 15 new references, all of which reinforce the tradition of the famous Bulgari icon on the one hand, while asserting an innovative spirit and contemporary style, on the other. www.bulgari.com
111 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
The Bamboo Collection 18kt yellow gold large bamboo bracelet
18kt white gold and diamonds small bamboo bracelet with spring mechanism
18kt pink gold small bamboo bracelet with spring mechanism
A
prime example of how necessity fosters invention, the Bamboo range was first introduced in the 1940’s as an innovative solution to a lack of raw materials during World War II. Bamboo went on to become one of the most distinctive Gucci icons to the extent that, as of 1971, the Bamboo stem shape was reproduced in a bracelet, available in silver and enamel or 18 karat
112 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
18kt yellow gold small bamboo bracelet with spring mechanism
gold.
From rings, earrings to bracelets, cufflinks and necklaces, the
This form proved to be a surprisingly modern and timeless element, which has been reinterpreted by successive Gucci designers in line with customers’ contemporary tastes. Today, Frida Giannini has successfully interpreted the beautiful contours of the Bamboo plant across the Gucci Fine Jewelry line.
Bamboo icon is created in 18kt gold and can be decorated with white or brown diamonds. The 2010 new Fine Jewelry Collection includes an innovative Bamboo spring line which combines exceptional design with technical expertise new to Gucci. www.gucci.com
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
Twist
“C
lassic with the twist” is the concept underpinning the new collection of women’s jewellery by Morellato. A sophisticated and romantic line combining the classic flavour of white pearl with modern stainless steel and crystals: this is TWIST, a collection of outstanding stylistic content, exquisite detailing and beautifully contrived proportions. Twist achieves a perfect interaction of design with coloured light and the nuances of pearl. A sinuous and spherical circle, a “twist” in fact, envelops and supports the pearl, enhancing and at the same time protecting it, to crate jewels that represent the perfect combination between traditional and the contemporary. The new collection has three necklaces, a ring and two earring models and is intended to give voice to Morellato’s female public, with all their dreams and emotions, and highlight their style and natural charm. www.morellato.com
Twist necklace LW01 Stainless Steel with white crystals Black and white pearls
113 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
All About Black Diamonds
Earrings and pendant in 18 kt white gold with black and white diamonds
B
lack diamonds are also
Diamonds are created by very
earth is under the earths curst.
called carbonados diamonds
high heat and pressure. The
Conventional diamonds are mined
and are found only in Brazil
only naturally occurring source
from explosive volcanic rocks
of this type of environment on
(kimberlites) that transport them
and the Central African Republic.
114 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES Sphere earrings in 18 kt white gold with black and white diamonds
115 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES from depths in excess of 100 kilometers by volcanic action. Where Black Diamonds are found, the geological settings are not compatible with the formation diamonds. So how are Black Diamonds made? It is believed that Black Diamonds originate in outer space. Black diamonds have been found to contain trace elements of nitrogen and hydrogen, which they claim are sure indicators of an extraterrestrial origin. Many people around the world consider diamonds great treasures. Some diamonds are found naturally in a range of colors, and the colors can increase the value of the stone because of the rarity of the color. The colors range from pink to black. Black diamonds are some of the rarest diamonds in the world. Black diamonds are not sparkling like those of other colors, but these jewels can make stunning jewelry. Jewelry pieces made with these distinctive jewels are becoming more and more increasingly popular. The black diamonds have many myths about them especially in India. Some people believe that these diamonds resemble the eyes of a snake so they were dedicated to an Indian god. One huge diamond made a perfect part for a statue of Buddha because of the black color. If you really want a piece of history then purchase a black diamond because it may be as old as the solar system itself. www.kayalijewelry.com
Sphere earrings and necklace in 18 kt white and rose gold and black and white diamonds
Bracelet and earrings in 18 kt black gold with black and white diamonds
116 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
117 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
ck chain
KJ42AB010300 Bracelet (one size fits all) Polished stainless steel
KJ42AN010100 Necklace 45cm long Polished stainless steel
B
old. Urban. ck chain. Organically designed shapes that create repeated arches and oval links. Lustrous bracelets, domed and constructed with open or closed bangles in polished black and white enamel grip. The ring and earrings,
118 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
offered as a smaller version of the same precise geometric construction; pendant is available on a snake chain with polished black and white enamel grip. In addion, the links collection is offered in polished stainless steel in a bracelet, necklace and earrings.
Bracelet one size fits all. Open and closed bandle available in extra small, small, and medium sizes. ring offered in sizes 5 to 9. www.ck.com
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
KJ42AB0101XX Closed bangle Polished stainless steel and black enamel grip
KJ42AB0102XX Open bangle Polished stainless steel and black enamel grip
KJ42AB0104XX Closed bangle Polished stainless steel and white enamel grip KJ42AP010100 Pendant on snake chain Polished stainless steel and black enamel grip
KJ42AB0105XX Open bangle Polished stainless steel and white enamel grip
KJ42AP0102 Pendant on snake chain Polished stainless steel and white enamel grip
119 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
Maona LADY MAONA An ode to the elegance of art nouveau jewellery and a celebration of deep blue, green and purple seas. This delightful Lady Maona complements and enhances the Swatch Bijoux family known as Maona, which means ‘deep sea’ in Hawaiian. The bracelet, which takes up the colours and floral motif of the bijoux family, is formed of lightly domed, oval medallions fashioned of coloured translucent synthetic resin and set in polished stainless steel 316L; the coloured medallions and delicate floral charms dangle from fine link chains leading to the transparent clear plastic case. The sun brushed silver mirror dial presents slim blue Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, small blue-dot hour markers at hours 1, 4, 7, and 10 and larger white-dot hour indexes at 2, 5, 8 and 11 o’clock. Elegant blue hour and minute hands and a slim silver sweep seconds hand mark the time.
Maona Green Earrings JEG005
MAONA Enhancing and enlivening the Swatch Preview Collection is a brilliant new family of Swatch Bijoux, Maona. The name comes from Hawaii, where it means ‘deep sea’. Swatch presents three versions of the new family, in blue, green and purple. Each set is composed of a matching pendant, bracelet, ring and earrings in a single, translucent colour evocative of the deep waters in the Hawaiian Archipelago. The rich, dark colours are infused
120 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Maona Blue Ring JRS041 Maona Purple Ring JRV008
Maona Green Ring JRG007
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
Maona Purple Bracelet JBV006
in oval medallions fashioned of synthetic resin and set in polished stainless steel 316L. The domed surface of the medallions catches and reflects changes in the light, allowing it to penetrate into the depths. Each member of the family presents a floral emblem, most evident in the setting of the ring, where flowing leaves are raised in relief and embrace the oval setting of the fascinating coloured resin medallion. The floral motif is reminiscent of jewellery from the art nouveau period and finds expression with the pendant in the form of delicate charms dangling from its chain link necklace. The bracelet, too, presents a series of blue, green or purple oval medallions set in a fine link chain and complemented by dangling, delicate floral emblems. Completing each single-colour version of the family is a pair of earrings: oval, slightly convex medallions formed of translucent synthetic resin.
Maona Blue Bracelet JBS019
All members of this elegant family of Swatch Bijoux are fashioned of polished stainless steel 316L and coloured synthetic resin. Each of three monochrome sets offers a variation on the family’s deep-sea theme: Maona Blue, Maona Green and Maona Purple. www.swatch.com
121 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
Bulgari Presents a New Accessory Collection for Men 1910 Collection Document holder in coated canvas chevron and walnut calf leather
1910 Collection Document holder in black calf leather
Parentesi sunglasses Light gold metal and tortoise acetate
Tortoise acetate sunglasses with niclafor laser engraved logo plaque
S
everal iconic Bulgari motifs highlight this new men’s accessory collection of leather goods, ties and sunglasses. The new men’s collection is strongly linked to Bulgari’s history and traditions and is made using the most elegant materials with the strongest attention to detail. The mood of the collection is both refined and radiant, the festive expression of a vision of luxury that emphasizes original style and attention to detail. The collection was inspired by Bulgari’s collections and is made for to the modern man who is conscious of high quality goods and the smallest details of their chosen accessories. www.bulgari.com
122 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
1910 Collection Shoulder bag in coated canvas chevron and walnut calf leather
PREMIUM I JEWELRY & ACCESSORIES
Bulgari Presents a New Accessory Collection for Women Leoni shoulder bag Metallic gold python skin
Chandra bag Silver soft lamb leather
Leoni handbag Chestnut soft lamb leather
S
Chandra bag Pearled black patent leather
everal iconic Bulgari motifs
expression of a vision of luxury that
highlight this new accessories
emphasizes original style and attention
collection of leather goods, silk
to detail.
and sunglasses. The chromatic palette of the collection The leather collection is evocative
was inspired by Bulgari’s iconic
of the gilded glamour of a 1960s
and vibrantly colorful gemstone
Hollywood garden party, where the
combinations; it also includes
cinema elite and other illustrious
intriguing flashes of black, gold and
personalities would share cocktails
silver. The dominant tones are Prussian
and dinner while lounging poolside
blue, red and amethyst violet, all set
at exclusive villas. The mood is
against warm neutral backgrounds link
booth refined and radiant, the festive
umber and chestnut brown, enlivening
Chandra bag Pearled platinum patent leather
the luminous gold and silver glow. The white, yellow and pink gold metal hardware used shines brilliantly against the dynamic and unconventional material combinations: soft lambskin and buffalo are complimented with rich ostrich and python accents, and sometimes jewel encrusted satin. There are also items in elegantly pleated linen, chevron-woven canvas and pearlized lacquer. www.bulgari.com
123 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
NEWS
PREMIUM I NEWS
The New “Isabella Rossellini� Handbag by Bulgari
A
n exceptional name for an
famous parents to the front row
of natural yet sophisticated
exceptional bag, created by
of the fashion catwalk, from the
beauty since the beginning of her
Bulgari as a tribute to the
success of cinema stardom to
career as an actress, fascinating
unique allure of one of the most
the commitment she has always
audiences with important roles
influential style icons of our time:
made to social, humanitarian and
in numerous Italian and foreign
Isabella Rossellini.
environmental causes.
films. An exciting life story meets the venerable history of Bulgari in
Her extraordinary career expresses
The daughter of two legends
a collaboration with its roots and
her multifaceted personality, one
of international cinema, Ingrid
inspiration in the past.
that continues to grow: from
Bergman and Roberto Rossellini,
The scene: the glamorous golden
the spotlight of growing up with
Isabella has been an emblem
years of 1960s Rome, captured
126 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
in black & white at the entrance to the historic Bulgari shop in Via Condotti, in which appears a very young girl named Isabella accompanied by her mother, Ingrid, who in addition to being a regular client often wore Bulgari’s High Jewellery creations on the sets of films like The Visit of 1964.
Isabella supported the partnership between Bulgari and Save the Children, lending her face, along with many other celebrities, to Fabrizio Ferri’s photo shoot featuring the silver ring created by Bulgari to raise funds for the humanitarian project “Rewrite the Future”.
In the years that followed, Isabella grew up and entered the world of cinema first, and then fashion, appearing on the covers of Vogue and countless other international magazines. The actress remains connected to Bulgari, in that she is a great admirer and often wears Bulgari jewels for exclusive occasions. In 2009, as part of the celebration of the company’s 125th anniversary,
Today, this long and felicitous relationship has generated an exclusive leather creation, a perfect synthesis of two stories rich in fascination and affinity which come together, once again, as the epitome of elegance. “We are extremely pleased with this wonderful collaboration with Isabella Rossellini”, says Francesco Trapani, CEO of the Bulgari Group.
“The bag gracefully expresses the essence of Isabella’s impeccable elegance. Sensitive, intelligent and blessed with an innate creative flair, she embodies the feminine ideal that has always inspired Bulgari’s creations”. For several months, Isabella Rossellini worked in close contact with Bulgari designers to create a bag that would express her personality. Thus “Rossellini” was born, a handbag distinguished by simple, essential lines that reflects the beauty and rigor of its muse. The softness of the lines and materials and the special design of the twist lock make the “Rossellini” a contemporary and seductive accessory that reinterprets
127 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
128 I PREMIUM - Winter Autumn2010 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS the bags of the great divas of yesterday in a modern key. Like Isabella herself, the bag conveys a natural and easy grace combined with a resolute and determined spirit, which are revealed in the exquisite central twist lock in enamel and hard stones. A special detail, this, where classic motifs and explicit references to the worlds of Bulgari and Rossellini coexist harmoniously: the half-circles of color whose rhythms intersect on the enameled surfaces and the oval form of the whole recall the earliest Parentesi creations and other Bulgari jewels, while also borrowing the graphic attitude of certain Vintage bracelets particularly dear to Isabella. The semi-precious stones of the twist lock employ the suggestive language of gems to evoke the distinguishing features of the actress’s personality. But the “Rossellini” bag also conveys creative genius and originality, a seductive wink at Isabella’s evasion of conventionality, as reflected in the unexpected interior lining of the bag, personalized with the actress’s signature. The fabric is printed with a single, eccentric motif: playful snails inspired by Isabella’s recent efforts to support the ecological cause by making short educational films about the reproductive habits of the animal world, combining comedy and scientific curiosity and straddling the boundaries between the real world and animated cartoons. Conceived, produced, directed and interpreted by Isabella, the films have been applauded at the Sundance, Berlin and Tribeca film festivals, and have since been made into a
book for children. The snail motif is finely printed on the lining of the “Rossellini” bag like a sort of handmade stroke, taken directly from the drawings and illustrations that fill Isabella’s work notes. “Bulgari has always intrigued me for its long and illustrious history and of course for its gorgeous creations of unique and refined style”, Isabella Rossellini says. “My connection with Bulgari dates back to when I was a child and I’d accompany my mother to the historic shop in Via Condotti in Rome. She loved Bulgari jewels, I remember the ones she bought very clearly. Still today, when I’m traveling and I come across a Bulgari store, I feel a pleasant sense of familiarity that makes me feel close to the beauty and subtlety of Italian culture, of my own roots. The collaboration with Bulgari was a delightful and creative experience. A bag is of course an indispensable accessory for us women, and we tried to make it become an object of elegance and luxury, like a jewel. I added a very personal touch to the bag, printing the drawings that I make for my surrealist films about animals on the lining, with the intention of combining art and design, fashion and cinema, humor and elegance.”
central twist lock in black and white enamel made with aventurine. An emblem of optimism, this stone harmonizes chromatically with the green of the lining. Nonchalance and simplicity are the distinctive traits of the model in brown mud chevron canvas and chocolate leather, graced by a closure in two gradations of gray enamel and tiger’s eye, a stone that symbolizes harmony. The version in walnut pony calf leather with flaps in chocolate leather is a tribute to the sophisticated elegance and bold temperament of Isabella, underscored by the amethyst of the twist lock, whose delicate reflections sparkle at the center of surfaces in black and brick red enamel and harmonizes with the purple of the lining. The last model reflects Isabella’s modern cosmopolitan spirit in the choice of multicolored ponyskin whose black and white ‘graphic’ effect captures the mood and tones of the contemporary metropolis and combines with the sobriety of chocolate for the leather flaps and the gloss of the aventurine and black and white enamel that decorate the closure.
The “Rossellini” bag is available in several variations of material and color, each describing a different facet of Isabella herself. The first is realized in carved black patent leather with plain flaps treated with a pearl effect, creating a futurist background across which radiates the suffused glow of the
129 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
OMEGA opens Co-Axial Exhibition at KaDeWe in Berlin
A
n exhibition describing a revolution which is taking place in the art of
mechanical watchmaking, and featuring OMEGA’s radical Co-Axial escapement, will take place at the KaDeWe in Berlin from the 4th to the 28th of August, 2010. Visitors to the exhibition, which is located on the ground floor in the centre of the “Themenhalle”, will have the opportunity to see all of OMEGA’s current wristwatch models equipped with Co-Axial movements; they can also examine the calibres in detail through a watchmaker’s loupe. The numerous delicate individual parts of the movements, such as screws and springs, are compellingly revealed through the magnifying lens.
130 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Diane kruger wears the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 watch at the Amfar dinner.
PREMIUM I NEWS
131 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract from the Archives
Since spring 2010, Jaeger-
origin of the timepieces crafted in
from the Archives is intended to
Lecoultre is offering collectors
the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshops. A
provide authentic added value
and connoisseurs of fine objects
precious fragment of the history of
for the objects it accompanies.
a beautifully made brand-new
the Grande Maison, it reproduces
Inspired by the aesthetic of the
Extract from the Archives featuring
the parts of the archives relating
company’s 19th century share
substantial content and an overall
to the production of the timepieces
certificates, each Extract from the
quality reflecting the excellence
it describes: model, calibre,
Archives is made from precious
of the timepieces from the
functions, exterior, production date
paper, embellished with silver
Manufacture.
and distinctive features.
heat-embossed or laser-engraved
This official document retraces the
The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Extract
motifs, and protected by a
132 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
handassembled jacket.
PREMIUM I NEWS
Louis Erard official timekeeper of the Allianz Suisse Open
S
ince 1915, the biggest
Gstaad and contributed to the
names of tennis have
reputation of the «Wimbledon of
followed each other onto
the Alps»: Tony Roche, Rod Laver,
the clay courts of Gstaad. The
Ilie Nastase, Boris Becker, Yannick
Australian Roy Emerson beats all
Noah, Stefan Edberg, Jim Courrier
the records with his 5 wins. Other
and many others. In 2004,
big names have also played in
Roger Federer added his name to
the honour’s list. The timers and the corner drops on the court will be branded with Louis Erard’s logo.
133 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
Saint Honore’s Racing Spirit
OMEGA Boutique
T
he Coloseo Black Racing
a collection inspired by the world’s
easy to read, a top-stitched leather
2010 is the latest addition to
most celebrated automobile races.
strap, an engraved Black Racing
the Black Racing series and
The class of 2010 echoes the
back with exclusive logo, and blue
will get its first taste of the track
inimitable style developed in the
hands. But the greatest innovation
on the wrists of the best drivers in
earlier editions, particularly the
on this timekeeping masterpiece
the world at the 2010 Le Mans 24
stunning black case, but adds a
is the new approach to telling time
Hours.
graduated tachymetric scale from
with the disc chronograph: the
0 to 400 km/h around the dial’s
counters at 2 o’clock and 10 o’clock
Saint Honore ambassador Paul
circumference. Other features
were specifically envisioned and
Belmondo helped launch this
include a carbon dial, oversized
designed to resemble a race car
prestigious limited series in 2006,
numerals that make it supremely
dashboard.
134 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
135 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
Diane kruger wears the legendary Jaeger-LeCoultre 101 watch at the Amfar dinner.
136 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
137 137I IPREMIUM PREMIUM--Autumn Winter 2010
PREMIUM I NEWS
Twilight Eclipse Premiere Sponsored by Time Center
T
wi-Hards gathered this 5
400 lucky Twilight fans were invited
July 2010 for the avant-
to be the first in Jordan to view
premiere of Eclipse, the third
the latest cinematic release at
installment in the Twilight film
City Mall’s Grand Cinemas. Those
series. Sponsored by Time Center,
in attendance were also given a
138 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
chance partake in a raffle draw where winners received Time Center gift vouchers.
PREMIUM I NEWS
Kayali Jewelry’s Diamond Festival $40,000 Winners
F
or Seven years, Kayali Jewelry has been holding it’s annual Diamond Festival. During the festival, Kayali Jewelry offers an exceptional collection of diamond jewelry at an extravagant 30% discount. This year, in addition to the great collections and discounts, Kayali Jewelry offered customers a chance to win $10,000 every 10 days. This year’s lucky winners are Ms. Marwa Al Hamaqi, Ms. Zeina Jamjoum, Ms. Shu’la Awartani and Ms. Reem Al Tarawneh.
139 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I SHOPPING DIRECTORY
Time Center
Time Center Elite
Bulgari Boutique
Head Office +962 6 5536553 Abdoun Mall +962 6 5921601 Aqaba +962 3 2060025 City Mall +962 6 5866973 Down Town - Gold Market +962 6 4623897 Jabal Al Hussain - Firas Circle +962 6 5673453 Mecca Mall +962 6 5540151 Shmeisani +962 6 5683868 Sweifieh +962 6 5817575 Um Uthaina +962 6 5532216
City Mall +962 6 5866973
Um Uthaina +962 6 5530319
Um Uthaina +962 6 5532216
Kayali Jewelry
140 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
Swatch Sweifieh +962 6 5856678 Kiosk Abdoun Mall +962 6 5921720 Kiosk City Mall +962 6 5866972 Kiosk Mecca Mall +962 6 5531806
City Mall +962 6 5866971 Sweifieh +962 6 5851026 Um Uthaina +962 6 5525726
PREMIUM I SHOPPING DIRECTORY
141 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010
PREMIUM I SHOPPING DIRECTORY
142 I PREMIUM - Winter 2010