9 minute read
Heaphy Track made for tramping
from SOUTH July 2021
by Times Media
Heaphy Track
SHINES DESPITE THE RAIN
Having completed six of New Zealand’s Great Walks over a span of some 50 years, local tramper, John Spiller was keen to get the Heaphy Track, located in the Kahurangi National Park, under his belt while willing and able. Here he recounts his 78.4 km experience.
The Heaphy Track isn’t the hardest of New Zealand’s Great Walks but it is certainly the longest so, when I announced my intention to take it on, I was delighted that two Howick Tramping Club friends, Margaret Freeman and Philip Scothern, said they were keen to come too.
A few emails and bookings later and we were set to fl y Air NZ to Nelson on May 9, then board a fl ight with Mit Brereton from Adventure Flights Golden Bay in order to arrive near the Northern end of the track. The idea was to tramp to Perry Saddle Hut on the same day. The weather had other ideas!
A low pressure system swept in across the Tasman delaying our landing at Nelson and our fl ight with Mit. Eventually, on fl ying out from Nelson, we enjoyed a thrilling 30-minute, small aircraft trip through mist and fog over the Takaka hill before landing at Adventure Flights private Takaka airstrip. We were then delivered to road end in Mit’s Ute.
It was clearly too late in the day to attempt the walk to Perry Saddle Hut, about fi ve to six hours away. What’s more, it was raining (moderately) and the light was failing so we just walked the 300 metres to Brown Hut where we spent the night. Other hut users had a roaring fi re on the go which kept us toasty warm as we dried off and prepared our evening meal.
Day two dawned clear and cool so, after breakfast, and returning a stray weta to the bush, we packed up, swept out the hut and headed for Perry Saddle following a route once surveyed for a road.
A steady climb through beech forest took us to Aorere shelter where we had a snack and donned wet weather gear as it had started raining.
There were good views over the Aorere Valley as we headed uphill to Flanagan’s corner so, Margaret took a short side trip to the highest point on the Heaphy track at 915 metres. Unfortunately, mist had settled in the valley so there wasn’t much to see.
Half an hour later we arrived, sodden, at Perry Saddle Hut which was being buffeted by a strong wind. Stumbling into the lobby, we removed our packs and dripping coats and hoped we could stay for an unscheduled night as we were supposed to have been there a day earlier – as on all Great Walks, huts must be booked in advance to ensure a bunk.
Almost immediately a helpful, young hut warden arrived and, on hearing our predicament, she contacted DOC to see if there were any spare bunks. Luckily, there were; we grabbed a spot, unpacked and put on dry clothing.
Soon afterwards, a guided group of eight walkers and two guides arrived, all wearing pink ponchos provided by Bush & Beyond, which was leading the group.
In addition, several mountain bikers, carrying their typically minimal gear, also arrived (during the winter season, May 1 to November 30, mountain bikers are permitted to ride the track). With a fi re going, and a full hut, the atmosphere was warm and convivial.
We woke on day three to shrieking winds and driving rain, which made the 50-metre dash to long drop toilets very interesting!
Breakfast and ablutions completed we again donned wet weather gear and gaiters then headed for Gouland Downs Hut for our planned overnight stop. The rain was heavy and, as we moved through the bush, we encountered numerous waterfalls and torrents of water running across the path. Caution was needed to cross these and the swollen side streams. Fortunately, we had walking poles to assist with balance.
Leaving the bush we found ourselves on expansive tussock downs and an hour later arrived at Gouland Downs Hut, an older but very quaint, eight-bunk building. Although not as popular as the larger huts, we were very happy to have it all to ourselves that night and were most comfortable.
Philip lit a stonking fi re and we stripped off our wet gear, spreading it around to dry. Hot soup and an early dinner followed. Highlight of the afternoon was a visit from a cheeky weka! As daylight faded and the embers glowed we slid into our sleeping bags for a good night’s sleep.
Day four was still wet ahead of our 17km tramp to James Mackay Hut. In no hurry, we enjoyed a nourishing breakfast, fi lled up our packs and headed off to look at some small caves in nearby bush.
WALKING THE TRACK
The Heaphy track is one of the 10 Great Walks in New Zealand. It must be booked and the huts, ($34 per night) paid for in advance. 10 Great Walks in New Zealand. It must be booked
A well benched and graded track, it is considered to be moderate grade in most seasons. We took a day more than most walkers as wanted to be moderate grade in most seasons. We took a day more than most walkers as wanted to take everything in. take everything in. We saw a variety of birdlife, including robins, tuis, bellbirds, fantails, tomtits, kereru (wood We saw a variety of birdlife, including robins, tuis, bellbirds, fantails, tomtits, kereru (wood pigeon) and weka in the bush. We also spotted oystercatchers, paradise ducks and black-backed gulls on the beach. Takahe are known to be in the area however, they stayed concealed for us. We used Adventure Flights Golden Bay for our fl ight to Takaka, Karamea Express for our return trip to Nelson airport (fi ve hours) and stayed at Last Resort Karamea after our walk.
For further information go to www.doc.govt.nz
Finally, on track, we had a slightly undulating walk over more tussock downs and crossed several fast fl owing streams on what appeared to be recently upgraded bridges. Thankfully, some sections of boardwalk kept our feet dry and protected sensitive fl ora nearby.
We stopped briefl y at Saxon Hut for refreshments and encountered three mountain bikers cheerfully making the best of the wet.
Later, a gentle climb through more bush took us past the lovely greens of damp mosses, ferns and lichens, while the red hues of horopito and dracophyllum trees were stunning in their brilliance after the persistent rain.
By the time we reached James Mackay Hut the weather had improved. Elevated and surrounded by beech forest, this hut enjoyed expansive views to the coast. We could even see the Heaphy River mouth in the distance.
A relatively new hut, it has 28 bunks and fl ushing toilets on a covered deck – absolute luxury! After fi nding our bunks and rolling out our sleeping bags, we headed for the large kitchen and communal area to whizz up soups and think about which de-hy meal to have for dinner.
Thursday, May 13 came around and it was on to Heaphy Hut, more than 20 km away. A clear sky and frost on the hut deck pointed to a fi ne day so Margaret and Philip joined others in climbing to a vantage point behind the hut to view the sunrise.
Soon everyone was astir being keen to start the downhill trek to Heaphy Hut. The gentle descent through beech forest, interspersed with rimu, kahikatea and matai, was invigorating and we arrived at Lewis Hut for our lunch break after walking 12.5 km.
Margaret opted to sit in the sunshine on a log near the Lewis River. As she lifted a spinach wrap to her mouth an audacious Weka swooped past and grabbed the entire wedge in its beak leaving Margaret hungry but very impressed with the bird’s scavenging skill!
Crossing the Lewis River swing bridge we continued the drop down to the Heaphy River, encountering the start of a nikau forest and some massive northern rata trees, amongst the largest in the country.
At the hut, the sun was bright and warm, perfect for a fi nal dry out of damp gear! Keen to explore the beach and river mouth we braced ourselves for an onslaught of sand fl ies and headed off at intervals. After days of hard, wet tracks, it was lovely to walk on soft sand and see surf crashing on the beach.
Heaphy Hut is a relatively new hut, with four separate bunkrooms each containing eight bunks. There is a spacious kitchen and communal area and, yes, fl ushing toilets, too.
That evening we again enjoyed the company of the guided group we’d met earlier. What’s more, the guides offered us delicious food they had prepared for their clients but which was extra to their needs. It certainly was a welcome change from our reconstituted dehydrated food.
On day six it was Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai River mouth, 16.2 kms. We woke early, keen to start the last leg of our wonderful journey, and, happily, it was clear blue skies with a crisp atmosphere outside.
After breakfast we crammed our packs full for the last time and headed for the track which meanders through swathes of well-established nikau palms along the foreshore. On occasion we were able to walk on the beach which was very inviting with waves sweeping up onto the sand.
However, there were stinging nettles (ongaonga) along the margins and these were to be avoided as a brush with them can lead to several days of pain.
It was a stunning day to fi nish on and as we climbed over the Kohaihai Bluff we saw a giant powelliphanta land snail – terrifi c!
A phone call from Scotts Beach (where there is cell phone coverage) an hour beforehand meant our transport to Karamea was waiting for us at road end. We just had time for a photo by the Heaphy Track sign and then it was off to The Last Resort in Karamea for a hot shower.
Despite the rain this was a superb experience and I must thank Margaret and Philip for their companionship and assistance with putting the trip together; I highly recommend others do the same.
