Gluttony Guide to Victoria BC

Page 1

GLUTTONY GUIDE TO

VICTORIA BC

BaconIsMagic.ca


TO SAY VICTORIA AFFECTED ME IS AN UNDERSTATEMENT.

I LOVE THIS CITY.

Located on the southern tip . d n la Is r e v u o c n a of V ved about everything I lo It reminds me of ut the Maritimes. B in r e at w e th y b living er. it’s just a bit bett

rly,

But get there ea

le to :15am and was ab 1 1 at in d e p p o I st er but rlooking the wat ve o le b ta a at t si as inutes the joint w in a span of ten m packed.

It’s the healthiest city in Canada, the cycling capital (not that I cycle) and has the second most restaurants per capita in North America – second only to San Francisco. And the weather! It has West Coast weather but only half the rainfall of Vancouver.

It could be perfect. I’m so happy to share this guide to the spots I loved in Victoria and I hope it encourages you to visit this city.


RESTAURANTS

S E R C A 0 1 M R A F + N E H C T I K + S N O M M O C + O R BIST CAN I TELL YOU HOW AWESOME LISA BOYLAN IS?

S

he agreed to do this Facebook Live video with me where she teaches me how to shuck an oyster. She was terrified to do it but I think she did an amazing job. Also she’s training for a charity boxing match – and she’s never boxed before. She’s a beast. Originally from Ireland, she’s been at 10 Acres for a year. 10 Acres is actually 3 restaurants: 10 Acres Bistro, 10 Acres Kitchen, 10 Acres Commons. Fortunately they are all in the same block. What makes this place special is that it has its own organic farm. I love meeting people who love their job and are inspired every day. After our video Lisa talked to me about how fresh produce was and that she’d never worked anywhere with such a strong connection to the farm. 10 Acres Commons also has a great happy hour that is 10pm to close with 1/2 price raw and cooked oysters where Lisa and others shuck next to a DJ.

10 Acres

611 Courtney St, Victoria (250) 220-8008


RESTAURANTS

AGRIUS T his restaurant makes all its own killer charcuterie inhouse and has an in-house bakery (called Fol Epi) – the bread is SO good. I almost posted a photo of just the bread, which normally I skip in a meal, because you CANNOT skip it. It seems that others love it as well, it was named Enroute’s #4 best new restaurant in Canada. The front of Agrius is a cafe to get bread, pastries, cured meat and sandwiches. At night you enter through the side for the open kitchen restaurant. I recommend sitting at the bar for the best view of the kitchen.

Agrius

732 Yates St, Victoria (778) 265-6312


RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS

FISH HOOK KUNAL GHOSE

is most well known for opening Red Fish Blue Fish, the recycled shipping container fish shop which warrants long lines in Victoria’s Inner Harbour. He recently opened a second location for Fish Hook, on the waterfront at Mermaid Wharf opposite Canoe Brewpub which has a different menu. This one takes a seafood spin on Indian Thali, and while it’s not a round platter, it does offer a number of cured, smoked, fried and pickled seafood. This is a great dish to sit out on the waterfront with a drink.

Fish Hook

407 Swift Street, Victoria (250) 590-6988


RESTAURANTS

HANKS *A RESTAURANT I MANAGED TO POP INTO HANK’S AFTER DINNER AND JUST BEFORE THE ENDED SERVICE. It feels like a Toronto restaurant, almost like the anti-thesis of west coast dining. It’s not light and airy and calm. It’s unapologetically small, dark, with Pearl Jam concert posters as artwork and music blasting. It’s a food first philosophy and I love everything about it. I immediately send Dave a video of the layout of the restaurant as I know he’s always wanted a small restaurant like this.

There are only two tables, one for 2 people and another for four. Otherwise it’s bar seating around an open kitchen cooking with induction burners. The menu is small, the food changes daily, and everything is made from scratch. Enough said. There’s no phone number, which is hilarious. You can’t book a reservation so there’s no reason to call.

Hanks *A Restaurant

1001 Douglas St, Victoria


RESTAURANTS

La Taqueria

I

don’t often seek out Mexican restaurants in other cities and was hesitant to visit La Taqueria but if you’ve been to a taqueria in Mexico you’ll sense the familiar aesthetic from signage to tiling. It’s not all for show, many of the staff are from Mexico and the flavours are legit. This isn’t the only location, they have four others in Vancouver. But don’t let this deter you. In Toronto we have a similarly well-known taco chain and they couldn’t be more opposite. At La Taqueria there is still a connection and respect to Mexico and they recently held a fundraising promotion for the victims of the Oaxacan earthquake.

La Taqueria

766 Fort Street, Victoria 778-265-6255


RESTAURANTS

Nourish Kitchen and Cafe

I

could rave about this place all day and night. Nearly every local nodded when I told them I loved it there, it’s a quiet favourite amongst many. I LOVED the harissa carrots that were a new addition to the menu – so much so that I went back to eat them again and begged for the recipe (coming soon!). Not surprisingly Nourish caters to vegan, veget arian and gluten-free diners, but also offers meat. This heritage home from 1889 is in James Bay and is the embodiment of conscious eating. With an emphasis on holistic nutrition the food focuses on enhancing nutrient density and bioavailability.

Nourish Kitchen and Cafe 225 Quebec St, Victoria 250-590-3426


RESTAURANTS

A

lthough OLO is not new, it’s widely considered one of the best restaurants in Victoria BC. Locals love it and it’s easy to see why. The interior is stunning, the food is local and seasonal and the service is friendly without feeling insincere. And the cocktails are interesting, instead of wine I ordered the Bitter Booch with housemade kombucha with amaro. Farm to table at its heart. The name means “hungry” in chinook jargon and the restaurant uses classic techniques to share food that highlights the ingredients. It’s simple and delicious.

OLO

OLO

509 Fisgard St, Victoria (250) 590-8795


RESTAURANTS

The Ruby (On Johnson)

I

don’t do brunch. It’s just not my thing. I know cooks hate it because they partied too hard on Saturday night and are suffering Sunday morning. I don’t like waiting in line. Also, I don’t like paying other people for breakfast food. Friends don’t even ask me out for brunch anymore because they know the answer is no. I forgot that when I visited The Ruby on Saturday at noon, that technically was brunch. But they have a menu for brunch haters like me. I was skeptical when they told me the most popular item was the chicken and waffles, an item that seems to be on every menu in Canada right now. But I quickly put the sassy judgemental attitude to the side when I ate it. They aren’t just slapping KFC on Eggos with a side of Aunt Jemima. They use farm fresh chickens (never frozen) that they brine and then dry rub. The chicken was fantastic with the spicy maple syrup and the smoked tomato sauce on the side was TO. DIE. FOR. If I lived in Victoria I’d make an exception for brunch every once in a while if people were eating at The Ruby.

The Ruby

642A Johnson St, Victoria (778) 265-8750


RESTAURANTS

Rebar

T

he kind of restaurant that

everyone recommends but no one mentions that it’s mostly

vegetarian. Everyone loves it so they don’t consider it one of the best

vegetarian restaurants in Victoria – just a restaurant.

The menu features a few dishes with

fish for pescatarians, as well as eggs for

brunch, but it’s primarily vegetarian. But

nowhere do they claim to be vegetarian, simply serving modern food.

Rebar

50 Bastion Square, Victoria (250) 361-9223


RESTAURANTS

Willie’s Cafe and Bakery

Y

ou cannot explore the best restaurants in Victoria BC without starting the day off right.

Willie’s Cafe and Bakery is the oldest bakery in Victoria BC and also offers an extensive eggs benedict menu. I chose the Tofino – in house smoked wild salmon, cream cheese, crispy capers, spinach and hollandaise. They use local, organic ingredients for their all-day breakfast and all-day lunch.

Willie’s Cafe and Bakery

537 Johnson St, Victoria (250) 381-8414


VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN RESTAURANTS IN VICTORIA

O

ne thing you can be sure of on the West Coast is that there will be plenty of great vegan and vegetarian options. Victoria was no different. However, Victoria has the highest vegetarian food sales per capita on the

continent. There’s a large vegetarian and vegan population, and most omnivore restaurants offer many meatless options. Many omnivores choose vegetarian and vegan often. So while visiting I thought I would too, here are my favourites.


VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

BE LOVE A

modern, upscale vegan restaurant, with the exception of local freerun eggs offered at brunch. I popped in for a raw ZLT (zucchini bacon, lettuce tomato), with honey-mustard cashew mayo on house made almond pumpernickel.

I LOVED IT! No, it didn’t taste like bacon but it had the smokey, sweetness as well as the texture. It’s considerably more expensive than other options but a great atmosphere and menu options for an evening out. Let’s face it, vegans shouldn’t be relegated to only eating at less expensive buffets.

Be Love

1019 Blanshard St, Victoria (778) 433-7181


VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

C

onsidered one of the best vegetarian restaurants in Victoria, it was recommended by everyone. Located in the Market Square Courtyard, it has been around for over 25 years. A well priced buffet, it’s also vegan but you’d never know – especially as there is a full selection of ice cream available. I tried the tom yam soup (amazing) and a bunch of different items from the buffet – some I liked better than others but that is normal with any buffet.

GREEN CUISINE VEGETARIAN RESTAURANT

Green Cuisine 560 Johnson St #5 (250) 385-1809


VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

Venus Sophia Tea Room

L

ocated in Chinatown, Venus Sophia is Victoria’s only vegetarian tea room and it’s family-run. Most people who come into Venus Sophia would have no idea it’s a vegetarian tea room. You don’t miss the smoked salmon or tuna sandwiches when you have amazing mushroom and caramelized fig sandwiches. Everything is made from scratch on site daily. Many tea rooms will make the sandwiches but bring in pastries. It’s received international accolades from everyone from Conde Naste Traveller to the Globe and Mail.

Gluten-free friends, they can accommodate you too!

Venus Sophia Tea Room

540 Fisgard St, Victoria (250) 590-3953


VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN

T

his vegan butcher was a must-visit item on my list.

It’s so good that meat eaters are flocking here to try plant-based dishes like vegan poutine, burgers with flax mayo and house made “cheez.” I loved the jackfruit “ribs” and even the rice paper bacon but the tempeh bacon was a tough sell. Half the customers are omnivore and I’m not surprised as the food is tasty.

THE VERY GOOD BUTCHERS

The Very Good Butchers

1701 Douglas St, Victoria 250-465-1542


CRAFT BEER IN

VICTORIA CRAFT BEER IS EXPLODING IN BRITISH COLUMBIA, WITH THE NUMBER OF CRAFT BREWERIES GROWING

50

90

2013

2015

145

2017

There are lots of great pubs that brew their own beer and bars dedicated to curating craft beer. Here’s where I explored one afternoon with craft beer expert JOE WIEBE.


CRAFT BEER

CANOE BREWPUB THIS JUST MAY BE HOME TO THE BEST PATIO FOR VICTORIA CRAFT BEER.

C

anoe Modern brewpub is housed in a restored historic building that

looks out onto the waterfront.

The interior is stunning with wood

beams and exposed brick.

If you have a group of five you can book a tour

and guided beer tasting of their small batch beer. Don’t skip out on the food. The kitchen

suggested the chicken curry, which I thought was an odd pairing for beer but it turned out to be a delicious Thai curry.

Canoe Brewpub 450 Swift St, Victoria (250) 361-1940


CRAFT BEER

GARRICK’S HEAD PUB ALTHOUGH LOCALS TELL YOU TO AVOID GOVERNMENT STREET

THIS IS AN EXCEPTION.

G

arricks Head Pub is in a historic

building from 1867. The main room

feels like an airy casual pub and the back is reminiscent of its history,

complete with a stone fireplace.

It has the largest selection of craft and import beer with over 50 beers on tap.

Not all are local, you’ll find some from the West

Coast and if you like a good ole fashioned mass produced beer they have that too.

Food is as approachable with burgers and noodle dishes. I highly recommend the Aussie burger

complete with beets and a fried egg. And don’t skip the beer battered fries.

Garrick’s Head Pub

1140 Government St, (250) 384-6835


CRAFT BEER

PHILLIPS PHILLIPS IS ONE OF THOSE EPIC STORIES THAT EVERYONE LOVES TO HEAR.

I

BREWING AND MALTING n 2001 Matt Phillips worked in the industry but at age 27 he wanted his own business.

No bank would give him a loan so he funded the venture completely from a number of credit cards. He brewed in a tiny apartment without windows, where he also lived. Now he has one of the hottest breweries in the city (in an actual commercial brewery) with its own malting facility and is opening his own tasting room. You’ll find Phillips all over the city. The brewery is very active and hosts a summer concert series.

Phillips Brewing and Malting 2010 Government St (250) 380-1912


CRAFT BEER

SPINNAKERS GASTRO BREWPUB T

o hear that a chef in Victoria is sourcing 100% isn’t unusual until you discover her restaurant has over 300 seats.

In addition to making local beer, cider, chocolates, vinegars and probably much more. It’s also the oldest brewpub and was pivotal in changing brewing regulations so that craft breweries could compete. If you have time get the chocolate truffle and paired beer flight. I didn’t have time but I’d love to do it.

Spinnakers 308 Catherine St (250) 386-2739


CRAFT BEER

UNBELIEVEABLY, THE BEER LIST AT

T

THE DRAKE CHANGES DAILY.

he Drake curates a menu from the

Service is similar to Europe and New

know their beer.

If you also get food they’ll bring it out to you.

Pacific North-West and staff really So if you aren’t sure what to get

you can tell them what other beer you like and they’ll offer a sample.

Zealand/Australia where you order at the bar. Like much of Victoria the food is local,

seasonal with lots of veggie and vegan options.

The Drake Eatery 517 Pandora Ave (250) 590-9075


COCKTAILS IN VICTORIA AREN’T JUST OLD FASHIONEDS AND NEGRONIS. YOU CAN FIND THOUGHTFUL AND INTERESTING USES OF LOCAL AND INTERNATIONAL INGREDIENTS. And everyone has a story of how that cocktail was named. The best cocktails in Victoria aren’t just limited to bars, but restaurants in Victoria have full bar programs. I loved the Bitter Booch at Olo with housemade kombucha with amaro. The Chilled Happiness at Nourish uses ampersand gin, bella rosé, lemon, happy wellness syrup made with Silk Road tea. At Agrius I tried several cocktails and loved them.

COCKTAILS IN VICTORIA


COCKTAILS

CLIVE’S CLASSIC LOUNGE DON’T LET ITS LOCATION IN A HOTEL DETER YOU.

I

n fact, most of the hottest cocktail bars in Victoria are adjoined to a hotel. But this

lounge is legendary and staff take cocktails

very seriously ensuring they are always well balanced.

Order the Rise and Shine and thank me later.

Clive’s Classic Lounge at the Chateau Laurier 450 Swift St, Victoria (250) 361-1940


COCKTAILS

THE FAIRMONT EMPRESS Q BAR

L

ocals will tell you that as a rule you should stay off Government St. Yet, there are a few exceptions like Garrick’s Pub to drink craft beer in Victoria, and the Fairmont Empress Hotel. I visited for one specific reason. The Fairmont partnered with Victoria Distillers to create a signature gin. It’s a vibrant natural indigo colour because it uses butterfly pea blossom. On its own the gin is stunning. But they discovered when this gin is mixed with tonic it turns lilac. Magic show? Science experiment? Sure it’s a novelty but this gin is also really good and worth the show. The Q Bar also serves a Q-1908 signature cocktail to celebrate the centennial of the Fairmont Empress Hotel, which is a beautiful lavender gin sour. Luckily you can buy the Empress Gin and make this gin sour recipe at home.

Q Bar

721 Government St (250) 389-2727


COCKTAILS

FOXTROT TANGO WHISKY BAR (FTW)

T

he new hot spot in town, the barman here, Shawn Soole, was previously at Clive’s and Little Jumbo and is well known in town. FTW is located in the Hilton hotel, the theme is 1950’s Los Angeles with spins on classic drinks using local ingredients like Silk Road Tea. If you’re a whisky fan this is the place to go as the menu changes often and features rare bottles and obscure regions. They also feature a guest bartender series with talent from around the world. There’s good reason to go often.

FTW at the Hilton Doubletree

722 Humboldt St (250) 940-3126


COCKTAILS

LITTLE JUMBO SOME DESCRIBE IT AS A BAR AND OTHERS WOULD SAY IT’S A RESTAURANT..

F food.

or the last five years it’s been

considered one of the best spots for cocktails and new Canadian

Each cocktail reads like a story; the Witch in the Woods reminds me of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale as I need to drink a

potion to keep her away. And it’s hard to choose, by prose or by ingredients? Another bonus point: reservations accepted here.

Little Jumbo

506 Fort Street, Down the Hall (778) 433-5535


COCKTAILS

VENETO TAPA LOUNGE

I

’ve stayed in many hotels with a bar but few

were visited by locals. Yet Veneto at the Hotel Rialto is B-U-S-Y during happy hour and full of

locals.

Veneto dares adventurous guests to choose a

spirit and taste (sour, sweet, savoury, tart) for a

surprise. As a result, I needed to try all the options over several days. My favourite was Brian’s Sunny

Side of the Street, and loved that it included pisco. Oh how I miss pisco sours in Peru.

Veneto Lounge at the Rialto Hotel 1450 Douglas St (250) 383-7310


COCKTAILS

BE LOVE VEGANS LIKE COCKTAILS TOO!

T

here’s so much vegan and vegetarian food

in Victoria. The most

modern vegan restaurant is Be Love (although they do have eggs in some of the brunch

dishes). While the non-meat

eaters rave about the food, it also has a separate bar that

everyone loves. You don’t need to eat at the Be Love bar, you can just pop-in for a drink.

Some Be Love cocktails take a healthy spin with spirulina or bull kelp. Yet others are

more whimsicle like the Majik

Margarita above with jalapeno infused hornitos plata tequila,

cointreau, fresh lime juice, blue majik and turbinado sugar.

Be Love

1019 Blanshard St 778-433-7181


EMPIRE DONUTS

U

nlike cupcakes, donuts have not gone out of style. Melanie Laverick once worked in a restaurant and

decided she was ready for something new. You can

taste her culinary prowess with a diverse offering classic, yeast or cake donuts along with holiday specials.

These are the kind of donuts that will make you fall in love with pastries again.

Empire Donuts 736 View St, Victoria (250) 415-8105


HEY HAPPY COFFEE

T

here are SO many great coffee

shops in Victoria and I didn’t get to visit enough of them because I had

switched to tea.

But I did pop into Hey Happy and it was just as good as locals promised.

Hey Happy

560 Johnson St, Victoria (250) 590-9680


SNOWDON HOUSE

L

aura Waters’ gourmet gift shop will make your head spin with possibilities. The shop is a oneof-a-kind show on its own with so many different items from cider bread to brie toppers. But the absolute must buy items are her fir products that she makes from her former Christmas tree farm. You won’t find anything else like this, her sparkling fir essence or fir vinegars. They are incredible.

Snowdon House

1890 Mills Rd, North Saanich (250) 658-3419


EMPRESS 1908 GIN

V

ictoria Distillers latest collaboration with the

Fairmont Empress hotel is a gin with an indigo hue that turns violet when tonic is added.

You can buy it in the city centre, also Victoria Distillers is located just outside the city in Sidney and has a retail store and bar.

Empress 1908 Gin 9891 Seaport Pl, Sidney (250) 544-8217


SILK ROAD TEA

A

lthough I never would have considered

I’M A TEA BELIEVER.

change my life. I spoke with founder,

If you like tea or are curious it’s worth coming in.

myself a “tea person” this place may

Daniela Cubelic about tea, how to switch from

coffee and the benefits of drinking various tea.

Staff are so down to earth and sometimes they have workshops at their tea bar.

I also bought some of their face care products

from their organic spa and it has transformed my habitually dry skin.

Silk Road Tea 1624 Government St (250) 382-0006


SEA CIDER FARM AND CIDERHOUSE

W

hile it’s not located within city limits, Sea Cider is worth the

drive for one of the most dynamic

ciderhouses in North America.

An organic orchard experimenting with cider

apples, I’ve never had such a diverse tasting of ciders. Styles range from traditional Germanstyle to others that incorporate champagne

yeast. Grab a charcuterie board and stay a few hours to enjoy the orchard view.

Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse 2487 Mt St Michael Rd, Saanichton (250) 544-4824


Walk Off Your Meal NOT ONLY IS VICTORIA CANADA’S THE MOST WALKABLE CITY BY FOOT BUT IT’S ALSO THE CYCLING CAPITAL AND, NOT SURPRISINGLY, THE FITTEST CITY IN CANADA. There is so much to see and do. A few notable walks are:

Scenic Marine Drive

Westsong Walkway

Beacon Hill Park

for the most picturesque

(1.5 mi.) paved path from

the park is huge. It’s a short

Many people drive this route Pacific Ocean views. If the weather is good you can

follow this path around the southern coast of the city.

It’s a popular spot for cyclists and joggers. There’s also an off leash dog park.

This is an easy 2.4 km the “Blue Bridge” by

the Songhees totems

through the harbour to the

West Bay float homes. It’s all flat but if you want to burn

extra calories run up the 100step staircase.

The most ambitious walk as walk and there are some

hills but also so much to see. Notably, Winston Churchill

planted a tree here in 1929.


Where I Stayed

HOTEL RIALTO

O

n press trips a hotel will host you for free. Hotel Rialto hosted me for 4 nights while on my search for the best restaurants in Victoria BC and I liked it so much I paid for two more nights on my own. I love smaller hotels and this is a newish (2009) hotel with only 52 rooms and it is close to everything. It’s a restored 1912 heritage building and the “Old World Italian with hints of Chinese influence” decor might seem a bit kooky but it pays respect to its original builder Chinese merchant Lim Bang. What I really love about this place is that they have a genius way to get people to opt out of maid service every day. If you choose to forego it, they give you a $10 credit to Veneto Tapa Lounge. So smart! I opted out the whole time. I’m tidy enough and can make my own bed.

Hotel Rialto

1450 Douglas St, Victoria 250-383-4157


THANKS FOR READING!

T

his guide was created in partnership with Tourism Victoria. I

hope it helps you plan your

travels in Victoria. I loved the city so much you just might find me there!

Want more inspiration? Watch my videos at

Youtube.com/Ayngelina If you found it useful please let me know: @Ayngelina

on Twitter and Instagram Facebook.com/BaconIsMagic Or send me a note at

ayngelina@baconismagic.ca Keep life delicious, Ayngelina

BaconIsMagic.ca


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