Westminster Classic Tours 2013

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Turkey, the Greek Islands & the Dalmatian Coast Cultural Tours • Private Charters • Classical Tours

2013


Welcome to our 2013 season

We specialise in high-quality, meticulously-planned tours to compelling historical sites in Turkey, the Greek islands and along the Dalmatian coast. Travelling in small groups, we sail in beautiful, professionally-run boats that are among the very best of their type. Offering a perfect combination of discovery and leisure, our trips follow the routes of the ancients along breathtaking coastlines. We look in detail at inspiring sites that disclose rich layers of civilisation and chart the rise and fall of Ancient Greece and Rome, Byzantium, the Ottoman Empire, and Venice, fascinating histories that provide us with a context for discussion of more recent developments. Our itineraries feature sites whose spectacular remains have been the scene of European culture’s most significant achievements in the arts, architecture, rational thought and natural philosophy. We also visit more remote spots in stunning, unspoilt natural surroundings. All our tours are accompanied by a lecturer or tour leader – sometimes both. Historians, archaeologists, classicists and other specialists unstintingly share their expertise and enthusiasm. The focus on getting to know sites of historical importance is complemented by an emphasis on relaxation and leisure to give you a truly memorable holiday. There are many opportunities to unwind in magical settings, with good company, entertaining conversation and first-class food and wine. Virtually all but the cost of your flight is included in the price; extras are minimal and stated in advance.

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Temple of Hadrian, Ephesos


Turkey and Greek Islands

Dear Guests

This year we welcome a number of new lecturers and tour leaders, as well some interesting new tours. At the end of June, Andrew Wilson, Professor of Archaeology at Oxford, will take you round Aphrodisias where he has been excavating, as well as a number of remote sites that we have not visited for several years. Jeremy Seal, who wrote the acclaimed travel book A Fez of the Heart will be lecturing on the Islands of the Knights tour later in the year and will also talk about travellers and travel writing. James McKay, classicist, poet and arts performer will lead a repeat of our very popular Cappadocia and Lycia tour in September. Richard Seaford, Professor of Ancient Greek Literature at Exeter, will include talks on classical literature, drama and philosophy on The Carian Shore. He is a stimulating speaker with eclectic interests. Lastly, Shane Brennan who lectures at Mardin University in southeast Turkey and has unrivalled knowledge about the communities and ancient civilisations of the Fertile Crescent will be leading on Last Chance to see Hasankeyf in late April. As many of you will know, the ancient town of Hasankeyf on the Tigris, with its rich cultural history, is due to be submerged once a new dam is completed. The very best time of year to visit the Cyclades is late May. Peter Jones from Friends of Classics will be conducting readings from Herodotus on Cruising the Cyclades and will be speaking on the development of Greek art. As well as the volcano-island of Santorini and magical Delos, this tour now includes two days on Amorgos, one of the least visited and most beautiful of all Greek islands. The art historian Amal Asfour is doing a new tour with a very unusual and interesting itinerary entitled The Temple and the Landscape. I would also like to draw your attention to two new tours during the October mid-term break. These tours are aimed at children over the age of eight and their parents. Turning to the Dalmatian coast, we have devised a new two-week tour, Illyrian Odyssey, to include both the intriguing, far-flung island of Vis and the city of Mostar in Bosnia. We are offering the Roman sites of Salona and Narona too. This is a unique tour and we expect it to be popular.

Last Chance to see Hasankeyf: Cultures & Communities in South-East Turkey with Shane Brennan 30 April - 7 May

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Cruising the Cyclades on the Aegean Clipper with Peter Jones and Jeremy Barnett 18 May - 1 June

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Ephesos, Halikarnassos and the Carian Coast with John Osborne 6 - 15 June

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The Carian Coast & Symi with Michael Tooley 15 - 23 June

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Aphrodisias, Halikarnassos and the Ceramic Gulf with Andrew Wilson 26 June - 6 July

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The Carian Shore with Richard Seaford 31 August - 7 September

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Ephesos to Troy with John Gaskin 1 - 14 September

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Cappadocia & Lycia with James McKay 31 August - 14 September

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Lost Cities of Caria and Lycia with John Penney 14 - 27 September

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The Temple and the Landscape: Ephesos to Halikarnassos through the Isles with Amal Asfour 15 - 28 September

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Islands of the Knights: Cruising the Dodecanese with Jeremy Seal and Jeremy Barnett 28 September - 12 October

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In Touch with the Ancient Gods: Shrines & Oracles of Caria and Lycia with Richard Stoneman 29 September - 13 October

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Family Tours From Caria to Lycia: A Family Odyssey with James McKay 19 - 26 October

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Sites and Shores of Lycia: A Classical Autumn Adventure with Amal Asfour 26 October - 2 November

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We have had many enquiries for tailor-made private charters in 2013. Boats come in all sizes from 3 cabins up and you may find that coming with your family and friends in this way is no more expensive than coming on a brochure tour.

Croatia

One more change: I will be handing over to Mandy Cunningham, currently our Business Development Manager, at the end of October. I know the company will be in excellent hands!

Pearls of the Dalmatian Coast with John Shorter 28 September – 5 October 28

An Illyrian Odyssey: Cruising the Dalmatian Coast with John Shorter 31 August - 14 September

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The general level of difficulty of archaeological sites is marked on each itinerary:

Nick Bentley Managing Director

BIAA

Brıtısh Institute at Ankara

Mandy Cunningham

A: Easy terrain B: Some steep or rough terrain C: Steep and rough terrain

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Life on Board Built in Turkey to traditional designs, the graceful, 26-metre wooden motor yachts in which we sail are known as ‘gulets’. These two-masted sailing boats are fully equipped to take advantage of favourable winds but powered by modern diesel engines that ensure we remain on schedule. With long experience of sailing the warm and clear waters off the coasts of western Turkey and Dalmatia, our captains are knowledgeable seafarers and have been working closely with us for many years. Safety is of paramount importance. Regularly monitored by the Turkish and Croatian coastguards, our boats operate to high standards. Boats usually accommodate up to 12 guests in comfortable twin or double cabins, each with its own bathroom. There is plenty of room for relaxation in the saloon or on the decks. The atmosphere is pleasantly informal. Food on board is superb. Meals are typically Mediterranean, prepared with care and expertise by a dedicated cook using fresh, local produce. Breakfast consists of eggs, cheese, olives, tomatoes, yoghurt and honey. Lunch is often a vegetable-based dish with salads, and seasonal fruit. At supper grilled meat, chicken or fish is accompanied by delicious mezzes. We provide quality local wines, beer, spirits and soft drinks. A typical day might begin in the morning with a sail of two or three hours followed by a swim before lunch, a site visit in the afternoon and a talk before supper. Sometimes we go ashore early and take a private bus to our destination. On these occasions we either take a picnic or have lunch in a local restaurant. We generally aim be back on the boat in time for a swim and shower before evening drinks.

Guests on our Croatian tours sail in the Linda, a graceful 7 cabin gulet. We can also arrange a tailor-made tour for your family or friends on the Linda or any of the gulets we use. If you would like to know more about private charters, please call our office.

Typical 8 Cabin Plan A Double cabins B Twin cabin C Saloon A

A

B C

A A

A

A

B

Bar

Cabins are about 2 x 2 metres and double beds are usually about 1.4 x 2 metres.

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“The trip was like buying oneself two weeks of heaven.”

Mary Morgan, Private Charter 2012


Last Chance to See Hasankeyf: Cultures & Communities in the South-East of Turkey

Diyarbakir

Batman Hasankeyf

TURKEY

Midyat

With Shane Brennan 30 April - 7 May 2013

Mardin Dara

Urfa

Nusaybin Al Qasmishli

Göbeklitepe Harran

This tour takes us into the heart of south-east Turkey, one of the country’s most fascinating yet least visited regions. Historically and culturally rich, the area has been a traditional homeland for Kurds, Yezidis, Armenians, and Syriac Christians, all of whom have left distinctive marks on the landscapes and architecture of the region. While we will be based in the ancient cities of Mardin and Urfa, the focus of this tour is Hasankeyf, a city with a continuous settlement pattern dating back to pre-Roman times. The site climbs in levels high above the Tigris River and boasts exceptional views and Islamicera monuments. Unfortunately this marvellous site is now condemned and soon most of it will be submerged by the rising waters of the Ilisu Dam. Temperatures at the top of Mesopotamia in summer are searing, but spring is pleasant and in this short window much of the plain is green following the rains and melting of the winter snow. Shane is the best person to show you this area. He lives and teaches in Mardin and has travelled extensively in the region.

Tour cost £1,370 Single Supplement £200

SYRIA

Hasankeyf

Day 1 Arrive Diyarbakir, 1 hour transfer to Mardin. Introduction to the city and Tur Abdin region. Visit to the Savur Kapı hamam.

of Midyat, famous for its churches and its evocative old quarter. In the evening we eat at a Syriac village (B).

Day 2 We spend the day exploring the old city of Mardin (B), which sits on a mountain side above the Mesopotamia plain. Highlights include visits to the Sabanci city museum, Tekke and Zinciriye Medresses, Meryema and Kirklar Suryani churches, and the Mardin archaeology museum.

Day 5 Leaving the Tur Abdin we travel three hours south-west across upper Mesopotamia to Harran, one of the world’s oldest continuously settled sites. Famous for its iconic beehiveshaped mud houses, the city is mentioned in Genesis, was the site of a major battle between Romans and Parthian Persians, and was a key centre of learning in the early Islamic period. The surrounding region holds several more interesting sites which we will visit in the course of the afternoon. Late afternoon we travel to the city of Urfa (1 hour) where we will be based for the remainder of the tour (B).

Day 3 Hasankeyf (C). This extraordinary site is the focus of our tour. Occupied by a succession of civilisations, the city is especially notable for its Islamic architecture. Guided by a local archaeologist who has access to areas currently under excavation, we will explore all of the major sections of the site. After lunch we go on a river walk taking in türbes, caves, the Salihiyye gardens and Mor Aho Monastery. We return to Mardin via Batman with dinner at a local ocakbaşı in Batman. Day 4 An early morning start takes us to Deyrulzafaran monastery, from where we move on to the ancient city of Dara. After lunch we visit the Syriac churches at Nusaybin and go on to Mor Gabriel monastery, believed to be the world’s oldest surviving Syriac Orthodox monastery. Late afternoon we visit the city

Day 6 In the morning we travel to the nearby site of Göbeklitepe, the most important

Neolithic sanctuary yet discovered. The hilltop temple is the oldest known man-made religious structure. Late morning we return to Urfa for lunch, after which we visit the archaeology and ethnography museum where you will see some of the finds from recently visited sites (A). Day 7 Urfa is one of Turkey’s most important historical and religious centres. Today we will take in the major pilgrimage locations – the sacred pools of Abraham, the Dergah complex of mosques, Prophet Job’s site – as well as the impressive citadel. There will be time for you to do some exploration of your own and to visit the city’s famous bazaar (A). Day 8 Urfa GAP airport is about 30 minutes from our hotel. (Please note - wine and spirits are not included in the cost of this tour.)

“I kept pinching myself to ascertain it was really happening and not a dream. It was magic! Thank you, thank you, thank you!” Guest, Origins of Western Thought 2011

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Cruising the Cyclades on the Aegean Clipper With Peter Jones and Jeremy Barnett 18 May – 01 June 2013 The islands of the Cyclades offer a landscape rich in mythology, ranging from the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis at Delos, to Naxos where Theseus abandoned Ariadne. We also visit the volcano-island of Santorini, the site of a cataclysmic eruption in prehistory, the results of which were felt across the Aegean. The site of Akrotiri on Santorini, closed for several years, has now re-opened and the curious labyrinth of ash-covered houses is now much easier to comprehend. The tour also includes a number of lesser visited islands including solitary Astypalaia, with one of the finest choras in the Aegean, and Amorgos, where the Chozoviotissa Monastery clings vertiginously to the cliff-face. Peter Jones from Friends of Classics will conduct readings from the classics, including Herodotus, and will speak on the development of Greek art over this period. Jeremy knows the islands well and will take you round the sites, assisted, where appropriate, by specialist island guides. We can never guarantee the weather, but late May gives the best chance for good cruising in the Cyclades. The Aegean Clipper is one of the most comfortable and spacious gulets operating out of Bodrum and we have now used her for several years.

Tour cost £3,200 Single Supplement £500

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Domed Churches, Santorini


Mykonos Delos

Paros

Naxos

Amorgos

Levitha

Sikinos

Kalymnos

Bodrum

Kos Santorini

Astypalaia

Detail of wall painting, Akrotiri, Santorini

Day 1 The Aegean Clipper will be in the harbour at Bodrum, about 40 minutes from the airport. Day 2 We aim to arrive in Kos by midday and go straight to the attractively terraced site of the Asklepieion (Sanctuary of Asklepios) (A) where physicians treated patients on lines laid down by Hippocrates. We leave for Kephalos Bay at the other and of the island. If time allows, we may make a short visit to the fascinating 5th century basilica of Aghios Stephanos, now in ruins, perched on rocks close to the shore. Overnight in the bay. Day 3 We leave early for Astypalaia, the most westerly of the Dodecanese. The main town ranges, in shimmering white, from the quayside up to the huge 15th century Venetian castle, which once had over one thousand permanent residents. The houses within were only abandoned after a catastrophic earthquake in 1956. We overnight at the quiet quayside or in a bay nearby. Day 4 Another long sail to Thera (Santorini), a sophisticated outpost of Minoan civilisation from the 3rd Millenium BC till the 17th century BC when the volcano-island erupted and all human settlement was buried. The island was resettled by Dorian Greeks almost a millennium later. We spend the night at anchor somewhere just off the town of Thira which clings precariously to the rim of the crater.

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Day 5 A long day, but a richly rewarding one. We take the cable car (rather than donkeys) and start with the Archaeological Museum. We then move on to Ancient Thera (B), the Dorian settlement on the other side of the island (B/C). It is a fine site, atop a limestone cliff some 300m above the sea. Around midday we visit the Museum of Prehistoric Thera, a world class display of material from Akrotiri. We will be at the site of Akrotiri mid-afternoon when we should have the place more or less to ourselves. The whole site is covered with a roof and has been minutely excavated. It is a unique site, difficult to understand, but we will have an expert local guide. Another night at anchor in the crater. Day 6 We head north to the tiny island of Sikinos. We will endeavour to collar the only transport on the island to visit Episcopi (B), one of the best preserved Roman monuments in the Aegean, subsequently converted into a church, now deconsecrated. The mountainous setting is superb. Overnight in the harbour or nearby. Day 7 We continue north and pass between Paros and Antiparos. Our destination is Parikia (built over the city of Ancient Paros) and visit the Ekatontapyliani, the oldest and, historically, the most important church in the Aegean. The small Archaeological Museum has fine sculpture in the famed Parian marble. Overnight in the harbour or nearby.

The Portara Gateway, Naxos

Day 8 We leave early for Delos (A), where Apollo and Artemis were born under a palm tree. We have an in-depth tour of this splendid, extensive and very well-excavated site with a local guide, as well as visiting the on-site museum. The island was once the religious and political centre of the Aegean. We overnight in a bay somewhere off Mykonos. Day 9 We leave early for Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades, and an island bus tour that includes the Sanctuary of Apollo at Yria, the Temple of Demeter at Sangri and the unfinished Kuroi (statues of young men) at Flerio (A/B). Back in the town of Naxos, we can walk to the famous Portara, a monolithic 6th century BC doorway, built by the tyrant Lygdamis, which seems to dominate the island from both land and sea. We can also explore the town’s Venetian quarter. Overnight in the harbour. Day 10 A long sail to Amorgos, considered by some to be the most beautiful island in the Aegean, yet well away from the main tourist trail. We head first to Katapola from where we take transport to the Chozoviotissa Monastery (B), which, clinging to the rock-face is one of the most unforgettable sites of the Aegean. We then continue our island tour visiting the island’s former capital at Chora, still vibrant and very picturesque, as well as the Hellenistic tower (A/B) at Aghia Triada. Overnight in a bay near Katapola.

Day 11 Some will relish the hour-long walk to the impressive ruins of Ancient Minoa (B/C), one of the island’s three ancient cities. Our gulet then moves on to Aigiali at the other end of the island. The scenery we pass is the most dramatic we will see on this tour. Overnight in Aigiali Bay. Day 12 We leave for tiny Levitha, an island farmed by a single family. For the energetic there is a Hellenistic fort, probably Ptolemaic, at the island’s highest point (C). Day 13 To Palionisos Bay, in the north of the island of Kalymnos, where we overnight after sampling wine and buying sponges at a local taverna. Day 14 We are in Pothia, the island’s bustling capital, for an early breakfast. We take taxis to visit the Church of the Gentle Virgin at Chora, which incorporates much masonry from the archaeological site of Apollo Dalios, which we then visit. There are the remains of an important Christian basilica on site, Christ in Jerusalem. Charles Newton excavated here in the 1850s and transferred some of his finds to the British Museum. Our final stop on the island is one of the best archaeological museums in the Aegean, with some impressive bronzes fished out of the sea. At midday, we leave for Bodrum and overnight in the harbour. Day 15 The airport is some 40 minutes from our boat.

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Izmir

Ephesos, Halikarnassos and the Carian Coast

Ephesos

With John Osborne 6 – 15 June

Miletos Didyma

We begin with the Temple of Artemis (Diana) at Ephesos and we end with the Mausoleum of Mausolos at Halikarnassos, two of the Seven Wonders. The first two nights are spent in a comfortable hotel in Selçuk right by Ephesos, and this allows us to explore this huge and exciting site and its surroundings in rather greater depth than is possible on our other tours. The next day takes us to Halikarnassos (modern Bodrum) via the vast Roman theatre at Miletos, the oracular Temple of Apollo at Didyma and the Temple of Zeus at Euromos in a sylvan setting that is a true delight. Once on our gulet in Bodrum, the pace slows somewhat, but our odyssey still takes us to grand and dramatic sites: the double harbour and extensive excavations at Knidos, Loryma with its Hellenistic fortress, the rock tombs of Kaunos and the unexcavated city of Lydai. The settlements of Caria, cut off from the rest of the world by mountains, were mostly situated on or near the sea, so travelling by boat in the wake of the ancients is just common sense. The swimming should be excellent. John, a long-time teacher of Classics and veteran traveller in Turkey and the Balkans, will explain the cultural and historical context of the sites.

Tour cost £1,950 Single Supplement £400

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Euromos

Bodrum

Kindos Palamutbükü

Library of Celsus, Ephesos

part restored. We overnight in the ancient commercial harbour.

Day 2 In the course of the day we will visit the Museum of Ephesos at Selçuk, the Temple of Artemis and the main site of the city of Ephesos (A/B). The highlight of the visit will probably be the houses with mosaics which have been painstakingly restored. A second night at the hotel in Selçuk.

Day 6 We spend much of a second day at Knidos and then move on to Palamutbükü where Turkey’s best almonds are grown. Those who wish to do so can visit Triopium (C); others may prefer to relax on board.

Day 4 We walk to the Mausoleum of Mausolos. We will also visit the Knight’s Castle, which houses a fine sub-aqua archaeological collection (all A). We will spend the night in a quiet bay outside Bodrum. Day 5 An early start across the mouth of the Ceramic Gulf to Knidos, one of Turkey’s most attractive and interesting archaeological sites (A/B/C). There has been major archaeological activity and a number of monuments are now

Göcek Lydai

Loryma

Day 1 We arrive at Izmir airport, about 40 minutes from our hotel in Selçuk.

Day 3 After an early breakfast we leave for the Theatre at Miletos (A/B) and the Temple of Apollo at Didyma (A). We expect to have lunch near Lake Bafa and will have a short stop to see the Temple of Zeus at Euromos (A). Our boat is moored in Bodrum (ancient Halikarnassos). A long day but a richly rewarding one.

Kaunos Ekincik Dalaman

Day 7 An early start for Loryma, passing between the Greek islands of Nimos and Symi. Loryma was a Rhodian garrison after the death of Alexander, and the Fortress (B) is remarkably well-preserved. Overnight at anchor in the fjord. Day 8 On to Ekincik and a flat-bottomed river boat to negotiate the shallow Dalyan River to see the rock tombs in the cliff high above the

river and the important site of Kaunos (B), where the archaeologists have been busy in recent years. We aim to be back on board as the sun sets. Day 9 A long sail to Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove). In the late afternoon we go up a Roman cattle track to a hidden ridge crowned with the Mausolea (B) of a rich local family, one of whose members made it to the Roman Senate. The unexcavated city of Lydai lies below. The overriding sense here is one of discovery. We move on to overnight near the village of Göcek. Day 10 An early start for Göcek and the minibus to Dalaman airport, about 30 minutes away.

“It became obvious that this is the best way to do Classical sites... the shared experience of good food, fresh air, visual delights and living history.” Financial Times


The Carian Coast & Symi Bodrum

With Michael Tooley 15 - 23 June

Kannos

The jagged coastline between Göcek and Bodrum is probably the finest stretch in Turkey: wide bays, secluded inlets and, in some places, a sprinkling of islands, almost all now uninhabited. The only big island close to Turkey that is still populated is Symi: its fjord-like harbour is surrounded on every side by neo-classical houses and is stunning. Much of the scenery is dramatic: towering limestone cliffs that plunge into the sea predominate, but there are many fertile interludes too, and forests of Mediterranean pine are ubiquitous. Because of the largely harsh terrain, there has been surprisingly little modern development and the coastline remains wild and unspoilt. For much of the tour there are fine views over to Rhodes and the other islands of the Dodecanese. The cities and settlements of Caria, cut off from the rest of the world, were often only accessible by sea. Michael has eclectic interests and is a stimulating speaker. As well as giving you the historical and cultural context, he will comment on the environment, the geography, the geology and the flora as we cruise our way through Caria.

Tour cost £1,950 Single Supplement £400

Knidos

Datça

Selimiye Symi

Göcek

Lydai

Rhodes

Day 1 We arrive at Dalaman Airport, just 30 minutes from our boat in the harbour at Göcek. Day 2 We cruise through the Bay of Fethiye to Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove), from where we go up a Roman cattle track to a hidden ridge, crowned with the mausolea of a rich local family, one of whose members made it to the Roman Senate (B). The unexcavated city of Lydai lies below. The overriding sense here is one of discovery. Day 3 The boat leaves early for a bay near Ekincik, a heavily forested area. Here we transfer to a flat-bottomed river-boat for the trip up the Dalyan River. We pass the famous temple-tombs high in the rock-face above us and then visit the important ancient site of Kaunos (B), with its twin harbours, both now silted up. We aim to be back on board as the sun sets. Day 4 As we move towards Loryma, the coastline is at its most rugged. Loryma was never more than a Rhodian garrison town after the death of Alexander and the main building surviving is the remarkable Hellenistic fortress (B), with its near-perfect ashlar masonry. We spend the night somewhere in the long and deep natural harbour. Day 5 We round Ekmekçi Burnu (‘Bread Point’) and make for Selimiye, a charming

Dalyan

Bozburun Loryma

Symi Harbour

Ekincik

village with its own micro-climate. On the way, we stop to visit the ruined Greek church on the island of Kameriye. This is a poignant reminder of the exchange of populations that took place in 1923 following the Treaty of Lausanne. Day 6 We double back to Bozburun, a small ship-building centre, from where we exit Turkey. We then move across to Symi. There are twin anchorages here. From where we tie up, there are splendid views of neo-classical houses, many quite grand. Symi grew rich on sponge fishing and this is also reflected in the vast number of churches. Those who wish to can walk up the steps (once the only thoroughfare) to Chora (B) and take in the sunset views. Day 7 We re-enter Turkey at Datça and immediately head for ancient Knidos and anchor in the so-called commercial harbour. (There was also a trireme harbour). Knidos is situated at the

point where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean proper, and the ancient city grew rich from the harbour dues, levied on boats that had to wait for a favourable wind to get round the point. We visit this terraced city, which has seen much excavation in recent years, and walk up to where the famous nude statue of Aphrodite once stood (A/B/C). Day 8 We cross the Ceramic Gulf to Bodrum, ancient Halikarnassos. We walk to the wellexcavated, well-presented site of the Mausoleum of Mausolos – one of the seven Ancient Wonders – and then move on to the Castle of St Peter, built by the Knights of St John. The castle has been well restored and houses several fine subaqua archaeological collections (all A). Day 9 The transfer to the airport takes about 40 minutes

“The whole tour was excellent… This was one of the best holidays I have been on. Boat, crew, weather, other passengers, ancient sites... all conspired to make it perfect.” Guest, Ephesos to Troy 2011

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Izmir

Aphrodisias, Halikarnassos and the Ceramic Gulf

Selçuk KuŞadası

With Andrew Wilson 26 June - 6 July 2013

Aydın

Nysa

Magnesia Amyzon Alında Alabanda

Heracleia

This is an unusual tour which includes a number of little visited, often remote sites - some partially excavated and abandoned, some scarcely touched by archaeologists. We will learn how archaeologists interpret their findings and how these fit into the bigger picture. We will also aim to discover how ancient cities were built and how they functioned. We start with one of the best known ancient cities where the excavations are on-going. Andrew Wilson, Professor of the Archaeology of the Roman Empire at Oxford University is currently working on the ‘South Agora’ pool at Aphrodisias and he will give us a personal tour of this beautiful site, one of the best excavated, best presented sites in all Turkey. For the first three days we base ourselves in a comfortable, spacious hotel just outside Aydın (ancient Tralles) and this enables us to explore a number of sites, well away from main roads. We then proceed slowly to Bodrum (ancient Halikarnassos) and embark on our gulet for a circumnavigation of the still unspoilt Ceramic Gulf, visiting ancient cities as we go. Andrew Wilson is a charismatic speaker and you are sure to be infected with his enthusiasm. The tour leader will be art historian, Amal Asfour.

Tour cost £2,350 Single Supplement £450

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Aphrodisias

Euromos Labranda Bodrum Kos Knidos Datça Triopium

Keramos Kedreai Marmaris

Tetrapylon Gate, Aphrodisias

Day 1 The hotel in Aydın where we stay for three nights is a little over an hour from Izmir Airport. Day 2 An extended, in-depth tour of Aphrodisias (A), a site ringed by mountains. We see the best preserved stadium in Anatolia and many other monumental structures – the Tetrapylon, the Temple of Aphrodite, the Baths of Hadrian. All these and an excellent display of local statuary make Aphrodisias a site to remember. In the late afternoon we move on to Nysa (A/B), a lovely site amidst fields and olive trees. Day 3 Alabanda (B), Alında (B) and Amyzon (B) are all off the beaten track. Alabanda is partly covered by the village of Araphisar. Little remains to remind us of the city’s former glory, but we see the vestiges of temples, a theatre, a council chamber and try to piece together a largely unexcavated site. Alında is where Queen Ada, sister of Mausolos, sought Alexander’s help in recovering her lost kingdom. It is a real fortress city and much remains: a well-preserved market building, a large theatre and an imposing aqueduct. The remains at Amyzon are scant, but there is a wild beauty about its mountain location. Day 4 For centuries Magnesia (A) was covered by silt from the Maeander. The Temple of Artemis, one of the largest in Asia, a magnificent propylon or ceremonial gateway and other structures have been revealed. Around midday we arrive at a splendid

village hostelry which we use as our base for exploring ancient Heracleia-under-Latmos (A/B). There are substantial city walls built by Lysimachos, one of Alexander’s generals. The landscape is almost lunar and the many caves of Mt Latmos afforded sanctuary to Christians in the 7th and 8th centuries. On the final stretch to Bodrum where we join our boat we make a short stop at Euromos (A) to see the remarkable Temple of Zeus. Day 5 We visit the Mausoleum of Mausolos at Halikarnassos (A), one of the Seven Wonders. It is a very well excavated site, the lifetime work of the distinguished Danish archaeologist, Kristian Jeppesen. We then embark for Cökertme in our gulet. We spend a quiet night in a cove or tied up at the rickety jetty. Day 6 A full-day day tour takes us to ancient Keramos (A), overlaid by the village of Ören; then, inland to Milas (A) - ancient Mylasa - once Caria’s capital. We visit the splendid religious site of Labranda (B), set high in the mountains, where we usually picnic. We return to our gulet which has moved to Akbük, near the head of the gulf. The scenery en route is truly spectacular. Day 7 A short sail brings us to so-called Cleopatra’s beach and the ancient site of Kedreai (A/B) where there is a beautiful small theatre. The site is largely unexcavated. We overnight at Tasbükü or nearby.

Day 8 An early start for the long sail to Knidos, perhaps the most beautiful coastal site in all Turkey. Ancient Knidos (A/B/C) had two harbours and the city was built on terraces. We anchor in the commercial harbour from where we can see the ancient city ranging up on either side. In the late afternoon we tour the main excavated area: the streets, the cisterns, the military harbour, the temples, the theatre and, of course, the famous tholos where the nude statue of Aphrodite once stood. Day 9 The morning is free for personal exploration or merely relaxing. There are beautiful walks, great views across to the Greek islands and much more to be seen: the upper theatre, the necropolis, the Sanctuary of Demeter. In the afternoon we move on to Palamutbükü. There will be an optional excursion to the unexcavated site of Triopium (C) where the games of the cities of the Dorian hexapolis may have taken place. Day 10 We return to Bodrum. We will visit the Castle of St Peter, built by the Knights of St John. The restoration is excellent and, in the Museum of Underwater Archaeology, there are good displays of amphora, glass and the contents of wrecks. Day 11 The Airport is some 40 minutes from the harbour. (Please note - wine and spirits are not included during the land portion of this tour.)


The Carian Shore With Richard Seaford 31 August – 7 September Bodrum Kos

The coast between Bodrum and Göcek is dramatic: high cliffs, secluded bays and, above all, very little modern development. After the first night in Bodrum (ancient Halikarnassos), all nights are spent in little bays or natural harbours where good swimming is guaranteed. The tour takes us right through ancient Caria and we start with a visit to the Mausoleum of Mausolos - one of the ancient Seven Ancient Wonders. Mausolos was a wily Carian with a penchant for Hellenistic culture. We visit Knidos, a spectacular site with two ancient harbours, one commercial one military. The trip up the Dalyan River to see temple tombs high in the rock-face will be long remembered. The cities and settlements of Caria, cut off from the rest of the world by mountains, were mostly situated on or near the sea, so travelling by boat in the wake of the ancients is just common sense. With his long experience as a Classics lecturer, Richard is eminently qualified to guide you through the region.

Tour cost £1,800 Single Supplement £400

Knidos

Palamutbükü

Ekincik

Kaunos Dalaman Göcek

Selimiye Loryma

Lydai

Rhodes

Rock Tombs, Dalyan River

Day 1 Our boat in the harbour at Bodrum is about 40 minutes minibus drive from the airport. Day 2 After an early visit to the Mausoleum of Mausolos we leave for Knidos, possibly the best located of any coastal site in Asia Minor. We visit the ancient city and the Temple of Aphrodite, where tourists in antiquity flocked to see the nude statue of the Goddess. We overnight in the ancient commercial harbour. Day 3 We spend the earlier part of a second day at Knidos (A/B/C), where archaeologists have spent many years uncovering new delights. Then on to swim, relax and overnight at or near Palamutbükü, famous for its almonds. Day 4 On to Selimiye, a charming, sleepy village. Well protected by hills, the settlement enjoys a micro-climate of its own and appears as an oasis in an otherwise barren landscape. On the way, we stop at a lonely Greek church on the island of Kamariye (A), abandoned in the exchange of populations in 1924. Day 5 We cruise to Loryma, one of the finest natural harbours in Turkey. Loryma was a Rhodian garrison after the death of Alexander, and the fortress (B) is remarkably well preserved.

Day 6 On to Ekincik and a flat-bottomed boat to negotiate the shallow Dalyan River to see rock tombs in the cliff high above the river and the important site of Kaunos (B), where archaeologists have been busy in recent years. We aim to be back on board as the sun sets. Day 7 A long sail to Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove). In the late afternoon we go up a Roman cattle track to a hidden ridge, crowned with the Mausolea (B) of a rich local family, one of whose members made it to the Roman Senate. The unexcavated city of Lydai lies below. Day 8 An early start for the charming town of Göcek and the minibus to Dalaman airport, about 30 minutes away.

“As a veteran gulet cruiser (this was my sixth trip), it was the best experience yet.” Guest, the Carian Shore, 2011

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Ephesos to Troy With John Gaskin 1 – 14 September

Our itinerary includes three of the finest classical sites in Turkey – Troy, Pergamon and Ephesos – and our visits do full justice to each of them. But it also takes us to underrated and often little visited sites where archaeologists have been very busy in recent years – Alexandria Troas, the Smintheion, Assos and Aigai. The minibus we use shadows the gulet throughout and this means we can visit remote sites well away from crowds. Despite the exciting and full schedule of visits, there is time to relax too and the swimming, whether in the pristine waters off Tenedos or in the lagoon at Bademli, is excellent. On this tour we seldom see other groups travelling by boat – just the occasional lone yachtsman. We end the tour at the Dardanelles. The straits have been fought over throughout history and our tour of the Peninsula is a moving and thought-provoking experience. John Gaskin is well acquainted with the history and cultural background of the sites covered on this flagship tour. He is a stimulating, entertaining speaker who will enthuse you both on and off site. At Ephesos, Pergamon and Troy we take local guides, well-known to us, who offer further insights.

Tour cost £2,995 Single Supplement £500

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Theatre, Pergamon


Gallipoli Çanakkale Tenedos

Troy Alexandria Troas Smintheion Assos Ayvalık

Lesvos Bademli

Pergamon Aigai

Phokaia Chios

Erythrae ÇeŞme Sığacık Teos KuŞadası

Izmir

SelÇuk Ephesos

Temple of Trajan, Acropolis, Pergamon

Day 1 We arrive at Izmir and transfer to the boat at at Kuşadası – about an hour’s drive.

hill, there are glorious views over to the Greek islands.

Day 2 We first go to the museum of Ephesos in Selçuk and then the Artemision (Temple of Diana), which is also off-site. We have an in-depth visit to the site itself (A/B), walking down Street of the Curetes, past the well-restored library and then to the huge theatre where St Paul was denounced. Our visit includes the famous houses where you will see magnificent mosaics and frescoes, still being painstakingly restored. Whilst the site is usually crowded, we often have the houses to ourselves. Overnight in the marina or just outside.

Day 6 The boat leaves early. If weather conditions allow, we stop for breakfast and a swim off the highly scenic and sparsely populated Karaburun Peninsula. We tie up in the harbour at Eskifoça, ancient Phokaia (A). Although there are scant remains of the ancient city, it was an important place in antiquity with colonies as far afield as Massalia (Marseille) and the Black Sea.

Day 3 We sail to Sığacık, a pleasantly laid-back walled town with a fishing harbour and marina. We visit the ancient site of Teos (B) – the harbour, the odeion, the theatre and the temple of Dionysos. It is a big site, but overgrown and little visited. Those who wish to do so can walk back to the boat, a walk of about a mile and a half. Day 4 We spend a relaxing day at Nergis Bay, an hour out of Sığacık. The clear waters are perfect for swimming. Day 5 A long sail to Ildır. We pass through the straits which separate the Greek island of Chios and the Turkish town of Çeşme. We usually anchor just off Ildır and walk up to the site of Erythrae (B/C) in the late afternoon. From the Temple of Athena Polias, which crowns the

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Day 7 We anchor in the beautiful lagoon at Bademli and our minibus takes us to remote and little-visited Aigai (B/C). This ancient city, which sits on a hill-top, has recently been revisited by the archaeologists and there have been some astonishing finds. The market building, part of it in pristine state, is perhaps the finest example of its kind in Turkey.

we visit the Asklepieion (A) where patients were treated. We rejoin our boat in the harbour at Ayvalık. Until the 1920s Ayvalık was largely populated by Greeks. Day 10 We cross to Baba Kale, a thriving fishing port near Cape Lekton of antiquity. Our minibus takes us Assos (B), a terraced site on a cliff-face with great views over to Lesbos. We make our way down through the modern village to the necropolis and the main part of the site. We also visit the Smintheion (A), the beautifully restored temple of Apollo, the mouse-god. Day 11 We leave early for the island of Bozcaada, ancient Tenedos – a sail of around 5 hours and tie up in the harbour. We tour this very agreeable island, stopping for a swim on one of the many pristine beaches. The island is covered in vines and in the early evening we taste the wine of the island at a winery.

Day 8 A relaxing second day in the lagoon. You can swim, walk amongst the ubiquitous olive trees or paddle in the hot springs. Day 9 A long day with some momentous visits. We drive to Bergama (ancient Pergamon) and start with the Acropolis (B), spectacularly perched a thousand feet above the plain. We see the library, the remains of the altar of Zeus and the steepest theatre in Anatolia. Our tour also takes us to the little visited Lower City (B), set on terraces. After lunch in a local restaurant,

Day 12 The boat drops us off on the mainland at Odun Iskelesi, where our minibus is waiting, and we go to the nearby site of Alexandria Troas (B). We first walk to the ancient harbour and then visit selected parts of this huge site where there has been much recent excavation by a German/Turkish team. Later, we move on to Troy (A) where our excellent local guide explains this complicated site with its many layers. We rejoin the boat in the yacht harbour at Çanakkale, which guards the entrance to the Dardanelles. Day 13 We cross over to Europe by regular ferry for a full day tour of the Gallipoli Peninsula (A). The cemeteries and memorials of sites of what is now a national park are beautifully presented. Day 14 Our minibus takes us to Istanbul Airport, a drive of about 5 hours through the pleasantly rolling countryside of Eastern Thrace.

“This was one of the best and most agreeable holidays we can remember. In almost every respect it exceeded our already high expectations.” Guest, Troy to Ephesos 2011

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Cappadocia & Lycia With James McKay 31 August – 14 September The reintroduction of this itinerary met with such a tremendous reception last year that we have decided to repeat it. Offering striking contrasts, this tour takes us through two of Turkey’s most spectacular and historically important regions. With the spread of Islam in the 8th and 9th centuries, Christians sought sanctuary in the mountains of Anatolia and remained here in small communities until the exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey after World War 1. The first few days are spent exploring the unique Christian remains in Cappadocia. The arid landscape with fairy chimneys, deep gorges and fertile valleys is extraordinary and unforgettable. Our journey to the Mediterranean takes us right across the Anatolian plateau by way of Konya, one of Turkey’s most important cultural and religious centres where the great mystical philosopher and poet, Celaleddin Rumi, founded the Mevlevi order, later popularly known as the ‘whirling dervishes’. We have included visits to two of the biggest and most beautiful of classical sites away from the coast: Antioch-inPisidia and Sagalassos, both very well excavated but, due to their remote locations, little visited. We come down from the plateau to join our boat at Göcek for a leisurely cruise along the Lycian shore.

Tour cost £2,950 Single Supplement £500

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Fairy Chimneys, Cappadocia


Antioch CAPPADOCIA

Isparta

Zelve Kayseri Göreme Valley Sinassos Ürgüp Kaymaklı

Sagalassos

Konya

Termessos LYCIA Fethiye Gemiler Teimioussa & Simena Xanthos Myra Andriake Kalkan Kaş Kekova

Göcek Lydai

Day 1 Our minibus will pick us up from Kayseri airport for the transfer to our comfortable cave hotel in Ürgüp where we stay for four nights. Day 2 In the morning we visit the underground city at Kaymaklı (A). In the afternoon we explore the Göreme Valley (B) with its cave-cut churches. The monastic communities which inhabited this area between the 9th and 11th centuries decorated these churches with unique and beautiful frescoes. Day 3 We visit Paşabağ (A) where we will see some of the most striking fairy chimneys in Cappadocia, Zelve (B), where three valleys meet and Çavuşin (A), where cave-communities lived until the 1950s. Day 4 There will be an option to take a balloon ride at dawn to see Cappadocia from above at its stunning best. We visit Sinassos (A), occupied until the 1920s by Greeks, and then go on to visit churches deep in the Ihlara Valley (C), an experience that will long remain with you. Day 5 We drive to Konya, ancient Ikonium, home of the Whirling Dervishes and a city with fine Seljuk architecture. The afternoon and evening will be free for exploration of this vibrant city. Overnight in Konya. Day 6 A drive with long, wide vistas takes us

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KaŞ

past the lakes at Beyşehir and Eğirdir. We make an extended visit to the predominantly Roman site of Antioch-in-Pisidia (A/B) founded by legionary veterans from Gaul in 25 BC. With perhaps as many as 100,000 inhabitants, it was one of the biggest cities in Anatolia. It was here that St Paul first tried to convert non-Jews to Christianity. Day 7 The final day of our land tour takes us to Sagalassos (A/B), mentioned as early as the 14th century BC in Hittite documents. It is arguably the most spectacularly situated of all the inland classical site in Turkey. It was here that archaeologists in 2007 uncovered a huge head of Hadrian which was one of the star exhibits at the British Museum exhibition in 2008. We board our gulet at Göcek in time for dinner. A long day, but highly exhilarating. Day 8 We cross the Bay of Fethiye to Gemiler (B/C), a small spindle-shaped island covered by a late antique monastic settlement, a place with links to St Nicholas of Myra. We moor in a sound between the island and the mainland with Baba Daği – Father Mountain – rising dramatically to the east. Day 9 An early start for Kaş, ancient Antiphellos (A), a beautiful town of whitewashed houses covered in bougainvillea. We spend a leisurely day exploring Lycian tombs

Ihlara Valley, Cappadocia

and a theatre with splendid views over to the Greek island of Kastellorizo. We overnight at nearby Bayındır Bay. Day 10 We go to Myra (A), famous for its Lycian rock-cut tombs and large Roman theatre. We then go on to Andriake (A) to see Hadrian’s granaries, amongst the best-preserved Roman buildings on Turkey’s southern shore. We spend the night in Kekova. Day 11 We visit the village of Kaleköy, which lies below an Ottoman fort on the ancient site of Simena (B), one of the most romantic settings of the holiday. Nearby Teimioussa (B) has one of the finest of all Lycian burial grounds. Day 12 We cruise to the pretty village of Kalkan and visit Xanthos (A), capital of ancient Lycia and a site that has been extensively

excavated. Xanthos has a long and tragic history: on two occasions the inhabitants submitted themselves to mass slaughter rather than give in to those who were besieging the city. Day 13 We sail to the beautiful inlet of Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove) and make our way along a Roman cattle track to a hidden ridge, crowned with the Mausolea (B) of a rich local family, one of whose members made it to the Roman Senate. The unexcavated city of Lydai lies in a hidden valley below. Day 14 We leave early for Göcek. Dalaman is only 30 minutes from the harbour. (Please note – wines and spirits are not included during the land portion of this tour.)

“This was a wonderful trip – for me the perfect vacation, with excellent leadership; wonderful company; beautiful and interesting sites.” Sue Ridyard, Islands of the Knights 2012

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Lost Cities of Caria & Lycia With John Penney 14-27 September This tour is carefully crafted to take you to little known places, well off beaten track and rarely visited by others. Inevitably this means there are some challenging walks through rugged territory. Many of the sites have not been excavated and you will feel the same sense of discovery that inspired travellers such as Freya Stark and George Bean. We take you to the well-preserved theatre of Kyaenae at sunset, a beautiful hill-top site; the temple and fish-oracle of Apollo at Sura; Aperlae, with its well preserved city-walls; the pillar tombs at Apollonia; and Oinoanda, one of the most magnificent sites in all Anatolia, where parts of one of the longest classical inscriptions recording a discourse by the Epicurean philosopher, Diogenes, were found. We also visit sites such as Patara and Tlos where the archaeologists have made important new discoveries in recent years. Where we do visit sites that feature on other operators’ itineraries, we time the visit to avoid the hordes. This tour involves rather more walking than some of our other tours, but there will be time to relax and enjoy some of the finest coastal scenery in Turkey and the swimming is superb. John Penney is a regular visitor to this part of Turkey and is well qualified to guide you expertly through the sometimes complex history and culture of this mountainous region.

Tour cost £2,900 Single Supplement £500

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Sunken Sarcophagus, Kekova


LYCIA

Göcek Lydae

Oinoanda

Fethiye Tlos

Patara

Antalya

Kemer Phaselis

Arykanda Olympos Xanthos Kyaenae Myra Kalkan Apollonia Sura Finike Kaş Teimioussa Simena Kastellorizo Aperlae KEKOVA

Porto Genovese

Baths, Patara

Day 1 Antalya airport is just over one hour from the marina at Kemer where our gulet awaits us. Overnight in the marina or nearby. Day 2 A short cruise take us to pine-shaded Phaselis (A) a city with three harbours that was once a major trading centre. The triumphal arch built for Hadrian’s visit marks the start of a well-preserved street leading to a fine aqueduct. The well-excavated central area is compact and includes a theatre and baths. But much of the site still awaits excavation and is covered with thick undergrowth. We overnight at Porto Genovese, an idyllic bay surrounded by towering cliffs.

Day 5 We try to get to Myra (A) early. There is a massive, well-excavated Roman theatre with a backdrop of Lycian house-tombs carved from the hillside. We then make a short visit to the Byzantine Church of St Nicholas, now popular with Russian pilgrims. There is some fine marble masonry and good examples of opus sectile mosaic. After lunch in a local restaurant, we move on to Hadrian’s granaries (A), amongst the best preserved buildings on Turkey’s southern shore. The adjacent harbour buildings and piers have just been excavated. We end the day with a visit to the rarely visited fish-oracle at nearby Sura (C).

Day 3 We spend the morning exploring ancient Olympos (A/B), a river port, situated in a canyon. Amidst the dense, lush foliage we discover ancient buildings, tombs and numerous inscriptions. Much of the site is still unexcavated. Those who wish to can walk up to the Chimaera where underground gas feeds flames which cover the mountainside. Another night at Porto Genovese.

Day 6 A more leisurely day in Kekova, an area of islets and inlets, with shores often dotted with Lycian tombs. We walk up through the picturesque village of Kaleköy, ancient Simena, for views and a closer examination of the massive tombs in the necropolis (B). We then move on to Üçağız, ancient Teimioussa, from where we take a minibus for the short ride to ancient Apollonia (C). There are pillar-tombs at this unexcavated site, well away from the tourist trail.

Day 4 As we round Cape Gelidonya and head for Finike, the coastline is spectacular. In the afternoon we take taxis – just half an hour – up to Arykanda (A/B/C) high in the western Taurus. It is a huge site, built on terraces and is sometimes likened to Delphi – but without the crowds. Overnight in the marina at Finike.

Day 7 We move on towards Kaş, ancient Antiphellos. If the waters are calm we will swim in the translucent waters off Aperlae, famous for its murex shells which make the purple dye. This is a rough site (A) but the walls are in remarkably good condition. From Kaş, we take a minibus to Kyaenae (A/B), a remote, hilltop site with a

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huge, earthquake-damaged theatre. We overnight in the harbour or a bay nearby Day 8 We take a day trip on a local boat to the Greek island of Kastellorizo (A). This tiny island, with fine harbours, grew rich on the entrepôt trade – and has some fine neoclassical buildings. It was almost abandoned in the 50s, but is now reviving and there is some good restoration. In the late afternoon we walk to the little theatre in Kaş (A) and and stroll in the streets of this overgrown village, with its white-washed houses covered in bougainvillea. Day 9 We head for the pretty village of Kalkan, from where we visit the ancient sites of Xanthos (A), a former capital of Lycia with a tragic history, and the port city of Patara, where St Paul changed ships on his third missionary journey. Both sites have been intensively excavated in recent years. Day 10 We leave early for Ağlimanı Fisherman’s net cove – and a relaxed day. Late afternoon we walk up an ancient cattle track to a hidden ridge, crowned with the mausolea of a rich local family, one of whose members made it to the Senate in Rome. The unexcavated site of Lydai (B) lies in the valley below. Day 11 We cross to Fethiye from where our bus takes us to Oinoanda (C), a hilltop site with substantial remains and a 100 metre inscription summarizing Epicurean philosophy. An in-depth

survey is currently being conducted by German archaeologists and the local watchman usually shows us round. It is a wild, beautiful site, well off the beaten track. We return to our gulet and spend the night in a bay nearby. Day 12 We return to Fethiye. We stop briefly in the vibrant fish and vegetable market, pass close to some interesting rock-tombs and then go down the fertile Xanthos valley to Tlos (A/B), where recent excavations have revealed a stadium, a huge church and a massive agora. On our return to Fethiye, we visit the Museum, home of many finds from Lycia, including recently found statues from the theatre in Tlos. We cross the Bay of Fethiye and spend a quiet night in the bay at Monastır or nearby. Day 13 Our last day is a leisurely one. We explore the Bay of Fethiye and aim to be in Göcek by late afternoon. Day 14 The airport at Dalaman is just half an hour from Göcek.

“I enjoyed myself enormously. In fact, I can’t think of any break I have ever had which so thoroughly satisfied all the criteria for a decent holiday.” The Times

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The Temple and the Landscape: Ephesos to Halikarnassos through the Isles With Amal Asfour 15 - 28 September The Temple of Hera at Samos and the Temple of Artemis at Ephesos, both of which we visit during this tour, were the two most significant sacred structures of their day – rivals in size and magnificence. These are the great Archaic Ionic temples, the first of their kind, marvels of the ancient world. The tradition initiated by these landmarks of ancient Greek architecture and the challenges they presented, were taken up and reinterpreted for the Classical and Hellenistic eras. We will have the opportunity to study several of the most dramatic and significant examples of how the tradition developed at Priene, Didyma, Euromos and Kos. During the course of this exciting architectural journey we will explore how buildings and landscape work together to make visually beautiful and meaningful wholes that still have the capacity to captivate and delight us more than two thousand years after they were conceived and built. We will also see superb Byzantine art and architecture, most impressively on Patmos. We will enjoy days of leisure on quiet islands, and look at beautiful works of sculpture, pottery and bronze in some excellent local museums. Above all, we will experience some of the loveliest landscapes that Europe has to offer.

Tour cost £2,900 Single Supplement £500

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Tholos where the Statue of Aphrodite once stood, Knidos


Ephesos Samos

Vathy Pythagoreio Priene Miletos

Agathonisi

Heracleia Euromos Didyma Labranda Altınkum Milas Iasos

Arki Patmos

Lipsi Leros Kalymnos Pothia

Bodrum Turgutreis Kos

Knidos

Temple of Apollo, Didyma

Day 1 We join our gulet at Bodrum harbour, about 40 minutes from the airport. Day 2 We move to Iasos (B) and visit the site with its varied archaeological remains from the early Bronze Age to the Roman and Byzantine eras. We overnight in the attractive little harbour. Day 3 After breakfast we take a minibus into the Taurus Mountains to visit beautiful Labranda (B/C). We continue to Heracleia (B) positioned above the interesting landscape around Lake Bafa, making a stop along the way to see the astonishingly well-preserved Temple of Zeus (A) in its lovely setting amidst olive groves. We rejoin our boat near Altınkum where the swimming is excellent and where we spend 2 nights. Day 4 A fantastic day in which we visit the incredibly evocative site of Priene, one of the few Greek sites to have escaped Romanization, and, towards evening, as the crowds disperse and the sun loses its heat, we visit Ephesos (A/B), with its enormously impressive Roman architecture. Though very little of it remains, we do not neglect the Hellenistic Temple of Artemis, one of the wonders of the ancient world. Day 5 Still based at Altınkum, we set off early by minibus to Didyma (A) where the Temple of Apollo still provokes surprise and admiration and then to Miletos (A/B), the hub of pre-Socratic philosophy where we will visit the theatre. Late

Monastery of St John, Patmos

in the day we leave Turkey and enter Greece at the lovely port of Pythagoreio on the Island of Samos, home-town of the great Pythagoras. An evening walk to the castle or a visit to the impressive new archaeological museum are possible. We stay overnight in the harbour. Day 6 Another exciting day in terms of the history of ancient Greek architecture which we begin with an early visit to the Heraion (A). Here, the temple to the goddess Hera, in its day the largest such structure ever built, is the outstanding masterpiece of archaic building. We also visit the tunnel of Eupalinos (B/C) and the lovely collection of pottery and bronze at the Archaeological Museum in Vathy. At the end of the day we move to peaceful Agathonisi for the night. Day 7 A well-deserved day of leisure after our very full programme of the previous days. We head to Arki for plenty of swimming in the Blue Lagoon. There are pleasant walks to be had and we stay overnight (A/B). Day 8 After lunch we move on to Patmos. In the late afternoon we take taxis to Chora, dominated by the huge fortified Monastery of St John for a walk around narrow streets and lovely sunset views over the islands (A/B). Day 9 We make an early start in the morning in order to begin our visit to the Monastery of

St John (A) as it opens, when visitors should be few and we can properly enjoy the Byzantine paintings which cover the interior of the church, and the treasures of the Monastery museum. We can return to the boat on foot, a pleasant walk by way of the cave-church (B) where St John is said to have received his Revelation which constitutes the dramatic final book of the New Testament. We then leave for Palionisos Bay on Kalymnos. After a visit to Nikos’ taverna to test the wine and kalamari, we spend a restful night accompanied by the sound of goats’ bells and lapping water. Day 10 On to Pothia, the main port of Kalymnos for a visit to the splendid collection of the Archaeological Museum and to the site of Apollo Dalios (A/B) with its ancient ruins and wonderful Byzantine church of Christ of Jerusalem. Overnight on an island near Pserimos. Day 11 We move to the town of Kos, home of Hippocrates, where we start the day with a visit

to the fascinating Asklepieion (A), important ancient centre of healing and medicine. There may be time for a stroll around the myriad architectural ruins of the town before leaving Greece and entering Turkey at Turgutreis. The formalities over, we proceed to Knidos for 2 nights. Day 12 Knidos is a lovely place, idyllically sited and brim-full of ruins, just perfect for exploration (A/B/C). The harbour is lovely and very good for swimming and kayaking. Day 13 After a little more exploration of Knidos with a walk to the sanctuary of Demeter for those who would like it, we move on to Bodrum. Here we visit Mausoleum of Mausolos (A), another wonder of the ancient world, and the Knights’ Castle with its Museum of Underwater Archaeology and varied collection of ancient earthenware, roman glass, and more. Day 14 The airport is 40 minutes from Bodrum harbour.

“Perfect. I couldn’t have wished for anything better… I’m already planning another.”

Debra Miller, Islands of the Knights 2012

T. +44 (0)208 286 7842 | E. info@westminsterclassictours.com | www.westminsterclassictours.com | 19


Islands of the Knights: Cruising the Dodecanese on the Aegean Clipper With Jeremy Seal and Jeremy Barnett 28 September – 12 October Expelled from the Holy Land in the 13th century, the Knights of St John settled in Rhodes and established bases on many of the Dodecanese islands. This tour covers much of the Knights’ territory, including the well-fortified city of Rhodes. We see other cultural legacies too: the fortified Monastery of St John on Patmos, still an important place of pilgrimage; Leros, where the Italians built a town in the Art Déco style; Kalymnos and Symi, islands rich from spongefishing; the volcano-island of Nisyros. There are major archaeological sites too: Kameiros, sometimes likened to a smaller version of Pompeii; the well-restored Acropolis of Lindos; Knidos, arguably the finest coastal site in all Turkey. With Jeremy Barnett, who knows these islands intimately, and Jeremy Seal, renowned author and travel writer, we will try to understand how the Knights held out, indeed thrived, on islands which have a historic place on the fault line between East and West, Christendom and Islam, for more than 200 years. We will examine the relationship between Greeks and Turks through the centuries and look at the contributions that writers, from Herodotus to Freya Stark, have made to our understanding of the Turkish coast and the Greek islands.

Tour cost £2,900 Single Supplement £500

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View from the Acropolis, Lindos


Patmos Leros Lakki Kalymnos Pserimos

Pothia

Bodrum

Kos Kos Knidos Nisyros

Datça Symi

Tilos

Rhodes Skala Kameiros

Kameiros Rhodes Lindos

Medieval City Walls, Rhodes Town

Day 1 The transfer from Bodrum airport to the Aegean Clipper takes about 40 minutes.

and visit Nikos’ eccentric taverna to sample wine and buy sponges.

Day 2 We head northwest to Patmos and aim to arrive in the late afternoon. If time allows, we make an early evening visit to Chora to see the ‘Cretan’ architecture and the battlements of the Monastery of St John the Theologian (A). The sunset over Patmos and Lipsos can be magnificent.

Day 5 We drop into Pothia, the bustling island capital to see the Sanctuary of Delian Apollo and the ruins of the Byzantine Church of Christ in Jerusalem (Both A). We also spend time in the new museum where splendid bronzes, recovered from the sea, are displayed as well as fine marble statuary. Overnight on the tiny island of Pserimos.

Day 3 We try to time the visit to the fortified monastery (A) to avoid the throngs who sometimes descend on this important point of pilgrimage. We see priceless manuscripts in the monastery’s treasury. Many choose to return on foot, a pleasant walk via the cave-church where St John is said to have received his Revelation (B). At midday we leave for Lakki on Leros where an evening stroll around the Art Déco buildings of the Italian colonial period is highly recommended. Day 4 We take a bus to the huge castle at Platanos, the most northerly of the Knights’ fortresses (A). The church, in the former armoury, is charming and there are views over the whole of the northern Dodecanese and across to Turkey. The Battle of Leros in 1943, which was the backdrop for the film The Guns of Navarone, was Britain’s last major reverse in WW2. We visit both the Commonwealth war cemetery and an unusually interesting museum detailing the islanders’ role in the battle. Midday, we head for a remote inlet on the barren east coast of Kalymnos

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Day 6 We leave early for Kos. After visiting the plane tree under which Hippocrates is said to have tutored his students, we visit the splendidly situated and sensitively restored Sanctuary of Asklepios – the Asklepieion or Healing Centre (A). We then move on to the volcanic island of Nisyros and take cars down into the crater, with its fumaroles and bubbling mud pools (A/B). In the cool of the evening we have a drink in the tiny village of Nikia, which has an interesting volcano museum. Day 7 The excellent Archaeological Museum. Those with energy can walk to Palaiokastro, the ancient acropolis which has been well restored (C) and from which there are breathtaking views - others may prefer to relax under the ficus trees in the delightful Plateia Ilikiomenis (Square of the Elderly). After lunch we move on to the island of Tilos for overnight, either in the small harbour or in a bay. Day 8 We leave early for Rhodes and the fishing

harbour at Skala Kameiros where a bus is waiting to take us to the well-excavated site of Ancient Kameiros (A), one of the three original Dorian settlements on the island before the sinoecism in 408 BC when the city of Rhodes, at the northern tip of the island, was founded. Our bus then takes us across the rugged centre of the island to Lindos, where we walk up to the beautifully restored Acropolis and the Temple of Athena (B). On the way down, we visit the Church of the Virgin, the walls of which are totally covered with well-restored and easily identifiable biblical scenes. We then rejoin our boat in the very harbour where the Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders, may once have stood. Day 9 We start the day with a walk through city’s former Jewish and Moslem quarters. Later, we visit the superb Archaeological Museum, housed in the former hospital of the Knights of St John. We then walk up the Street of the Knights to the Palace of the Grand Master, restored by Mussolini (All A). The rest of the day is free for self exploration. Day 10 A relaxing day to Symi town, with a long stop at St George’s Bay for excellent swimming under towering cliffs. At the end of the 19th century Symi was an island made rich by spongefishing and entrepôt. Its fortunes declined, but the rich, neo-classical mansions, many now restored, and the phenomenal number of churches remain. Overnight in the spectacular harbour,

which many consider the most beautiful in the Aegean. Day 11 We re-enter Turkey at Datça and continue to Palamutbükü, where Turkey’s best almonds come from. There will then be an optional walk to the unexcavated site of Triopium (C), where, it is said, a festival of the six ancient cities making up the Dorian hexapolis took place under the aegis of Apollo. Overnight at Palamutbükü or nearby. Days 12 & 13 Onwards to Knidos at the tip of the peninsula. Knidos (A/B/C), with its ancient commercial harbour and its trireme harbour, is one of the most beautiful and unspoilt coastal sites in Turkey. Like the ancient travellers, we anchor in the commercial harbour. There is much of interest to see at Knidos and we plan to spend the best part of two days here. The first day we will tour the centre of the city where the excavations have been concentrated. The second day will be given to individual exploration – the site of the Temple of Demeter, excavated by Newton, perhaps; or the necropolis; or to paint or merely to walk. Day 14 To Bodrum, ancient Halikarnassos. We visit the Mausoleum, another of the Seven Wonders, and then the first-class Museum of Underwater Archaeology housed in the wellrestored Castle of St Peter. Day 15 Early morning departure. The airport is some 40 minutes from the harbour.

T. +44 (0)208 286 7842 | E. info@westminsterclassictours.com | www.westminsterclassictours.com | 21


In Touch with the Ancient Gods: Shrines and Oracles in Caria and Lycia With Richard Stoneman 29 September – 13 October This cruise takes us to some favourite sites, as well as some we have visited only rarely. Throughout, the scenery is spectacular and the ancient ruins intriguing. We visit charming villages, many of which were only really accessible by sea until recent times – Kaleköy, Üçağız, Kalkan and Kaş. We visit sites associated with several of the ancient Gods – Aphrodite at Knidos – arguably the finest coastal site in Anatolia – Zeus at Kaunos, the sungod Helios at Arykanda, Apollo in his oracles at Sura and Patara, as well as the ‘Unknown God’ at Oinoanda and St Nicholas at Myra. We will try to gain some insight into the way the ancients sought guidance for life from fortunetelling tombstones and from philosophy inscribed in stone. Richard will illuminate the visits with talks on Alexander – on whom he is an acknowledged expert – on oracles and on the Gods of Olympos. He will also introduce you to the history and culture of Lycia.

Tour cost £2,900 Single Supplement £500

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Simena


CARIA

Bodrum Kos

Dalyan Dalaman Kaunos Göcek

Knidos Loryma

Lydai

Rhodes

Fethiye Gemiler

Oinoanda LYCIA

Xanthos Patara Kalkan KaŞ

Sura Simena

Arykanda Finike Myra

Phaselis Olympos

KEKOVA

Rock Tombs, Myra

Day 1 Our boat is waiting for us in Bodrum harbour about 40 minutes from the airport. Day 2 We sail to Knidos, a terraced city with two harbours, where, in antiquity, the nude statue of Aphrodite once attracted visitors from afar. We explore the centre of the city, still only partially excavated (A/B/C). However, recent excavations by the Selçuk University in Konya have dramatically improved our knowledge of the city. Overnight at Knidos. Day 3 We sail to Loryma (B) and visit the impressive Hellenistic castle where Demetrius the Besieger massed his fleet for his attack on Rhodes in 304 BC. Overnight at anchor in the inlet. Day 4 We take a flat-bottomed boat up the Dalyan River to see the famous temple tombs high in the rock-face. We then walk to Kaunos (A/B) site of an intriguing cult of Zeus in the shape of a black stone. Kaunos is a large site, occupying a ridge between two harbours and is currently subject to intensive excavation. The Roman baths are huge and well preserved. The long harbour inscription on the now restored nymphaeum, reducing harbour tariffs, is a lastditch attempt to attract trade as the harbours silted up. Overnight near Ekincik in a bay surrounded by forests of pine. Day 5 We cross to Gemiler (B/C), a small

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spindle-shaped island covered by a late antique settlement, a place with links to St Nicholas of Myra. We moor in a sound between the island and the mainland, with Baba Dağı – Father Mountain – rising dramatically to the east. Day 6 An early start for Kaş, ancient Antiphellos (A), an overgrown village of whitewashed houses covered with bougainvillea. We spend a leisurely day exploring Lycian tombs and a theatre with fine views to the Greek island of Kastellorizo. Overnight in harbour. Day 7 We aim to arrive at Myra (A), with its rock-cut tombs and enormous, well-preserved Roman theatre, before others do. Myra is the birthplace of St Nicholas, whose church is now much visited by Russian pilgrims (A). Our visit concludes with a visit to the Roman granaries and newly excavated Roman harbour at Andriake (A). In the afternoon the intrepid may wish to visit the dramatic site of Sura, site of an ancient oracle where the responses were given by fishes (C). Overnight in a bay. Day 8 We take a minibus from Kekova to the spectacular site of Arykanda (A/B/C), high in the western Taurus. Often referred to as the Turkish Delphi (but without the crowds), its successive terraces support tombs, temples, an agora and a stadium. Another night, in a different bay, somewhere in Kekova.

Day 9 We sail to Finike from where we take transport to Phaselis (A) and Olympos (A/B). At Phaselis a triumphal arch built for Hadrian’s visit in AD 129 marks the start of a well-preserved street lined with statue bases, a theatre and baths. The street ends near an imposing aqueduct. It was at Phaselis that the sea drew back at the command of the gods to allow Alexander’s army to march along the shore. Olympos, noted as a pirate stronghold in antiquity, is now densely overgrown with foliage which gradually opens up to reveal ancient tombs, temples and inscriptions. On a small hill is the famous oracle-tomb where passengers may have their fortunes told by the lecturer, consulting the inscribed verses. Overnight in the marina at Finike. Day 10 We cruise back to Kekova for a relaxed tour of a coast studded with islets and inlets. Many consider Kekova to be the most beautiful part of the Turkish coastline. At Kaleköy (ancient Simena) – we explore the Ottoman castle (B) and note that many buildings in this picturesque village make use of ancient masonry. Later in the day we explore the necropolis at Teimioussa (B), one of the finest burial grounds in all Lycia. Overnight at one of the many wooden jetties or anchor in the lagoon. Day 11 We cruise to the pretty village of Kalkan and take a minibus to Xanthos (A),

Theatre, Arykanda

capital of ancient Lycia, and the nearby port of Patara (A), where we can try to identify the location of the oracular temple where the priestess received the god at night. Overnight in a bay near Kalkan. Day 12 A relaxed day at Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net cove). Those who wish to can walk up to the site of ancient Lydai (B) to inspect the remains of two monumental tombs. Inscriptions tell us that one of the incumbents made it to the Roman Senate. Day 13 We cruise to Fethiye and take a minibus to the spectacular mountain site of Oinoanda (C), where in the second century AD a local dignitary, Diogenes, inscribed approximately 90,000 words of Epicurean philosophy on a series of buildings in the town centre. About one third of the text has been recovered from the ruins to date: our guide shows us some well-hidden portions. The city wall also houses an enigmatic oracular inscription. Overnight in a bay near Fethiye. Day 14 We explore the islands and inlets of the Bay of Fethiye, where Nelson is supposed to have assembled his fleet before the Battle of the Nile. It is a bay of extraordinary beauty. We aim to be in Göcek late afternoon. Day 15 Dalaman airport is half an hour from Göcek.

T. +44 (0)208 286 7842 | E. info@westminsterclassictours.com | www.westminsterclassictours.com | 23


From Caria to Lycia: A Family Odyssey With James McKay 19 – 26 October

Bodrum

Marmaris

Children and their parents will find much to excite them in this tour: wandering, like detectives, through ruined ancient Greek and Roman cities trying to understand what the buildings were and why they were built there; visiting an ancient open-air theatre and seeing how well the voice carries (without a microphone!); studying how archaeologists work (it is a bit like taking the layers off an onion). The swimming in crystal-clear waters will probably be the best you have ever experienced. Turkish food is delicious and the cook, who is a real personality, is used to producing great food for all tastes. To spark the imagination we begin the adventure with a visit to the Castle of St Peter in Bodrum where you will see treasures recovered from sunken wrecks. Later we set off on a week of exploration, discovery and relaxation. James, who joins our team this year, has good teaching experience and is used to taking young people (and others!) on tour. He himself writes poetry and is a bit of an actor too. As someone who studied Latin and Greek at university, he knows about ancient civilisations, the society, the people; and he is looking forward to sharing this journey with you.

Tour cost £1,600 There is no Single Supplement for parents and their children on this tour 24 | Westminster Classic Tours 2012 2013

Knidos

Datça Symi

Dalyan Kaunos Dalaman Göcek

Loryma

Lydai

Fethiye Gemiler

Crusader Castle of St Peter, Bodrum

Day 1 Our boat is waiting for us at Bodrum harbour, 40 minutes from Bodrum airport. Day 2 Visit the Crusader Castle of St Peter (A) which dominates Bodrum harbour and is now the picturesque setting for an excellent archaeological museum with displays of amphorae, glass, and brilliant reconstructions of ancient shipwrecks. We visit a local mosque and in the late afternoon we move off to Knidos in time for a swim and an evening walk as the sun sets over the ruins of this evocative ancient city. Day 3 We visit the site of Knidos (A/B/C) with its wonderful theatre. More swimming and kayaking and another peaceful night in this beautiful harbour. Day 4 We continue to the fortified town and harbour of Loryma sailing through the Gulf of Hisarönü between the Greek islands of Symi and Nimos. At Loryma, once we have freshened up with some swimming, we walk up to the towers and ramparts of the castle (B). Day 5 In the morning we go to Ekincik and have a swim and an early lunch. We then take a slow boat up the Dalyan River looking at the amazing rock tombs cut into the cliffs above us and hoping to spot some sea-turtles as we go along. A brief visit to the village of Dalyan before we continue to ancient Kaunos (A/B).

Day 6 An early start to Ağlimanı or Fisherman’s Net Cove, stopping at Dişibilmez for breakfast and a swim. In the afternoon we take a walk up to Lydai (B) for a tour of archaeological discovery as we search for the signs left by the ancient Romans in this quiet hill-top site. Day 7 A two-hour journey takes us to the island of Gemiler (B/C) and its Byzantine heritage. A climb to the highest point of the island, stopping to investigate its ruined churches, gives us some stunning views over the bright turquoise sea and mountainous Turkish mainland. Next is Karacaören for swimming and lunch before proceeding to Göcek, aiming to arrive in the early evening. Day 8 Dalaman airport is about 30 minutes from the harbour of Göcek.

“This was a trip full of visual and cultural treasures, a treat for the senses from start to finish. The children were delighted and inspired and we were waited on hand and foot!” Cyrena Rice, Half-term tour 2011


Sites and Shores of Lycia: A Classical Autumn Adventure With Amal Asfour 26 October – 2 November

Dalyan Ekincik

Tour cost £1,600 There is no Single Supplement for parents and their children on this tour

Dalaman Göcek

This is an exciting and wonderfully varied tour, an idyllic way to spend the last golden days of October. The sea will still be warm and the sites will be quiet so that we can enjoy leisurely visits. After meeting our boat at the pretty harbour-town of Göcek, our first adventure is to Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove). Here we will follow a small hillside track up to rarely-visited Lydai where we will discover the stone remnants of diverse ancient Roman monuments. The days that follow will be just as full of pleasurable and engaging activity. We will meander up the Dalyan river keeping a sharp look out for sea turtles (as well as fresh pomegranate juice from the local groves), before arriving at the important ancient sea-port of Kaunos. We will taste the best fragrant honey of Ekincik. We will take an excursion to Saklıkent Gorge, one of the world’s deepest canyons, and paddle in its clear cool water. We will investigate the Ottoman castle and the ancient theatre, stadium and baths of Tlos. At Fethiye we will visit the bustling fish market and the interesting museum. On our final day there will be a walk along the charming, forested path which leads around the ancient Lycian city of Kadyanda with its dramatic views and myriad ruins. This tour is an inspiring combination of archaeology, architectural history and glorious landscape.

Kaunos

Lydai

Kadyanda Fethiye Tlos Gemiler

Saklıkent

Rock Tombs and Castle, Tlos

Day 1 Our boat is waiting for us in the harbour at Göcek about 30 minutes from Dalaman airport. Day 2 In the morning we leave for the beautiful inlet of Ağlimanı (Fisherman’s Net Cove), perfect for swimming and kayaking. We take an afternoon walk up a Roman cattle track to ancient Lydai (B). Overnight in the bay. Day 3 On to Ekincik and then by flatbottomed river boat slowly up the the Dalyan River to see to see rock tombs carved into the cliffs above. We visit Dalyan village and then the wonderful site of ancient Kaunos (A/B). We stay under the pine trees at Ekincik for the night. Day 4 We set off for Karacaören for a leisurely morning and some swimming and in the afternoon we continue to Gemiler (B/C), a small island with plenty of scope for walking and the exploration of antique and early Christian ruins. We spend the night in the sound between the island and the mainland where the mountains provide a dramatic backdrop. Day 5 In the morning we visit Ölüdeniz, famed for its crystalline turquoise sea, and then move on to Fethiye where we share in the excitement of the fish market, enjoy a visit to the excellent museum, and see the tomb of Amyntas. We may even have a Turkish bath if the mood takes us. We overnight in Fethiye or a bay nearby.

Day 6 A perfect whole day excursion which begins with Saklıkent gorge where we can paddle in the river and have a local lunch of gözleme, paper-thin pancakes filled with all manner of treats. In the afternoon we go to Tlos (A/B) and its castle, stadium, baths, theatre and more. After our busy day we stay the night on the other side of the Bay of Fethiye.

Day 8 Dalaman airport is half an hour from Göcek.

Day 7 We start the morning with a swim. In the middle of the day we go into Göcek where a minibus is waiting to take us to Kadyanda (A/B). Here we walk around an incredibly pretty wooded circuit with wonderful views dotted with ancient ruins which include a stadium (perfect for running races) and theatre (ideal for some amateur theatricals). We overnight in the pretty harbour of Göcek.

“I sometimes think ‘can I bottle this moment of supreme happiness, and open it up whenever I need rejuvenation’. My time with Westminster Classic is amongst the top such moments for me. I took two kids, twice..... I can say without hesitation, that on both occasions this was an absolutely sublime trip for all three of us” Osman Mardin, Family Tour 2011

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An Illyrian Odyssey: Cruising the Dalmatian Coast With John Shorter 31 August – 14 September

This tour offers a well-balanced mix of cultural highs: Diocletian’s Palace, Trogir (both World Heritage sites) and the Roman cities of Salona and Narona. But we also spend time on some of the lesser visited islands: Vis, Šipan and Šćedro – whilst not neglecting some of the better known ones: Hvar, Korčula and Brač. All have great scenic beauty. For much of the time we island hop and a two week tour means that we can explore small island towns, sip excellent coffee in small cafés, and go walking. Then there is Dubrovnik, one of the Mediterranean’s most beautifully preserved cities. The visit to Mostar in Bosnia, Dubrovnik’s traditional trading partner makes good historical sense. The timing of this tour ensures that we miss the worst of the crowds, yet enjoy pleasantly warm weather. The water temperature will make for some excellent swimming. John is a frequent visitor to Croatia, both in and out of season, and he has an intimate knowledge of both the history and culture of the country. He is sure to enthuse you.

Tour cost £3,850 Single Supplement £600

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Old Town, Dubrovnik


CROATIA

Salona Trogir

Split

BOSNIA

Sumpetar Mostar

Brač Hvar Vıs Biševo

Starigrad

Šćedro

Narona Korčula Slano Mljet

Šipan Dubrovnik

KorČula

Mostar, Bosnia

Day 1 We will be met at Split airport. A short drive brings us to Trogir where our boat, the Linda, is moored alongside the historic old town.

Day 5 We sail to Lovišce Bay on the island of Šćedro, the most delightful natural harbour in all Dalmatia, perfect for swimming in clear waters.

Day 2 We visit this illustrious city dating back to early Greek settlement in the 3rd century BC. Amongst the highlights of this short tour are the visits to the Kamerlengo, the Dominican monastery, the Cathedral of St Lawrence with the famous portal by Radovan, Dalmatia’s most celebrated sculptor and simply wandering through the delightful alleyways. We then sail to Starigrad, stopping en route for swim and lunch. This was the Greek colony of Pharos, whose boundary markers and paths are still clearly visible beyond the town. The churches are delightful and the Dominican monastery has a painting by Tintoretto.

Day 6 We head early for the island of Mljet (Melita), passing through the narrows between Korčula and the Pelješac Peninsula, famous for its vineyards; islets, lighthouses and monasteries abound. Mljet is a National Park covered in pine and jasmine. After a hike or a minibus trip, we take a boat across a lake to the 12th century Benedictine Monastery and Church of St Mary in an enchanting islet (A). Overnight at anchor just off Mljet.

Day 3 We sail to the much less visited, outlying island of Vis. In the 4th century BC Greeks from Syracuse established a trading base here and called it Issa. Vis, one of the most majestic but less visited islands, is of special interest because it was a base during the Napoleonic wars; and in WW2 it served to supply the partisans. Tito spent some time here living in a cave. There is a British cemetery which is well worth visiting. Day 4 Much will depend on the weather. We will either make an expedition to the famous Blue Grotto on the little islet of Biševo or tour this beautiful island with its many vineyards. In either case, we will try and visit the island’s picturesque second town, Komiža.

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Dominican monasteries, the Church of St Blaise (Patron of the city), the Jesuit Church of St Ignatius, the fortresses, the synagogue, the mosque – they are all among the possibilities. Day 9 A quiet day and night on the island of Šipan, an hour or so from Gruž. The natural beauty of the island made it an attractive place for the summer residences of Dubrovnik’s élite and there are more than 30 churches. A good day for walking, swimming and relaxing.

Day 7 We head off early for Dubrovnik. We may well tie up in the harbour at Gruž, very convenient for the old walled city. After an early supper on board we pay our first visit to this historic centre, all pedestrianised. We will walk down Stradun, the main thoroughfare made of marble, visit the small fishing harbour, and perhaps a church or two; or take a drink in one of the city’s many pleasant cafes. It is one of the most complete of cities, highly comprehensible.

Day 10 An early start for Slano on the mainland whence a minibus will take us to Mostar in Bosnia via the Neretva valley with a stop in the picturesque ancient Turkish town of Počitelj and a visit to the important Roman colony of Narona where the recently excavated Augusteum forms the centrepiece of the exciting new museum. Our walk through Mostar (A) takes in the bridges, the mosques and the bazaars and we sample the excellent local cuisine, redolent of Turkey. Visible evidence of the recent conflict abounds, but Mostar is regaining its reputation as a lively, beautiful city in a truly magical setting.

Day 8 A full day in the old city, starting with a short briefing and orientation session with a first-class private guide. This is followed by a perambulation of the now fully-restored walls (B) before it gets too hot. After an unhurried restaurant lunch, the afternoon is free for personal exploration: The Rector’s Palace, the Sponza Palace, the museums of the Franciscan and

Day 11 On to the island of Korčula (A), known to the Greeks as Black Corcyra because of its dense forests. This beautifully preserved medieval city is one of the highlights of any trip to Dalmatia. The locals claim that Marco Polo was born here. We trace the city walls and visit the richly decorated 15th century Cathedral of St Mark and All Saints Church with its rich icon collection.

The Ecclesiastical Museum in the Bishop’s Palace and the Town Museum have fine displays of both medieval and ancient artefacts. Day 12 Back to Hvar island to visit the town of Hvar (A). From the citadel, the Spanjola, we take in the splendid view of Hvar’s walls, churches, arsenal, monasteries, and Venetian theatre and loggia. We visit the late renaissance Cathedral of St Stephan, with its nine baroque altars and bell tower, considered the finest in Croatia. Then to the Franciscan monastery with its eclectic museum. Overnight in a quiet bay. Day 13 An idle day largely spent in a quiet bay on the island of Brač. For the energetic, there is good walking on the island, and optional excursions to the hermitage of Blaca or the stone working school at Pučišća can be considered. Day 14 We cross from Brač to the home port of Linda in Sumpetar. Our minibus collects us and we spend a full day visiting the ancient site of Salona and the Diocletian Palace in the heart of Split. We will also visit the Meštrović Gallery where we can see numerous works by Croatia’s well-known sculptor, as well as the Archaeological Museum. Day 15 We expect to take a morning flight back to London. The airport is just 45 minutes away.

T. +44 (0)208 286 7842 | E. info@westminsterclassictours.com | www.westminsterclassictours.com | 27


Pearls of the Dalmatian Coast Telašćica Bay

With John Shorter 28 September – 5 October

Krka National Park Skradin

Kornati Archipelago

Kaprije

Šibenik

Žirje

For those with just one week to spare, this end-ofseason tour combines a wealth of ancient buildings in Trogir, Šibenik and Split with two exceptionally interesting National Parks: the Krka River and the Kornati Islands. The Krka is a short river with canyons of karst rock, rapids, waterfalls and lakes, and forms the border between north and south Dalmatia. We aim to visit the waterfalls and an important monastery on an islet. The Kornati Islands – all 140 of them – are formed of karst and limestone and are a great place for fossils. According to astronauts, the waters of the archipelago are the clearest blue on the planet. The swimming here is excellent and the waters will be warm till well into October. We round off the tour with a visit to Salona, the well-excavated and well-presented Roman site close to Split. John will be giving a series of short background talks on the history and culture of a region with which he is exceptionally well acquainted.

Tour cost £1,950 Single Supplement £500

Primošten

Salona

Rogozniča Bay

Split Drvenik

Krka National Park

Day 1 We will be met at Split Airport. A short drive brings us to Trogir where our boat, the Linda, is moored alongside the historic old town. Day 2 We tour the ancient city of Trogir, founded by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC. We visit the Kamerlengo, the Dominican monastery and the Cathedral of St Lawrence with its exquisite portal by Radovan, Dalmatia’s most celebrated sculptor. We then set sail for Rogozniča Bay, stopping for a swim and lunch off one of the Drevnik islands. Day 3 An early start sees us entering the Krka river estuary and sailing up to Skradin, a charming little town and gateway to the Krka National Park (B/C). We then take a local boat to the waterfalls within the park and go on to visit the 15th century Franciscan monastery on the island of Visovac with its rich library. We overnight at Skradin. Day 4 On the way back down the river, we stop at Šibenik whose Cathedral of St James is the most important architectural legacy of the Renaissance in all Croatia. We continue through the Šibenski archipelago and overnight in a quiet bay on the island of Kaprije. Day 5 A long haul north with dramatic island vistas towards Telašćica Bay at the southern end

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Trogir

of Dugi Otok (‘Long Island’), considered by many the most beautiful bay in the Adriatic. ‘Lord of the Rings’ was filmed nearby. Day 6 We sail through the Kornati Archipelago of some 140 islands, islets and reefs. Now a National Park, these almost uninhabited islands boast crystal-clear seas and extraordinarily stark maquis-like scenery. On some, high cliffs plunge deep into the sea, the most obvious sign of the Adriatic fault line. Overnight in a bay on the island of Žirje, east of the archipelago. Inhabited since prehistoric times, it is now a home to fishermen. Day 7 On our way to the island of Drvenik, where we overnight, we pass Primošten, an

exceptionally picturesque and once fortified town founded in the 16th century. Formerly an island, it is joined to the mainland by a causeway. It is famed for its red wine, Babić. Day 8 After breakfast and a last swim, the Linda drops us in Trogir. We then take a bus to visit the ancient settlement of Salona, a Roman stronghold, and on to Split for a guided tour of Diocletian's Palace and old town. If time allows, we visit the Meštrović Gallery, where we see numerous works by Croatia’s well known sculptor, and the Archaeological Museum. We expect to leave on an early evening flight; the airport is some 15 minutes away.

“A wonderful holiday free from stress and so luxurious. We felt cared for and our fellow passengers were interesting and fun.” Professor Joan Freeman and Siobhan Westhead, Pearls of the Dalmatian Coast 2012


Lecturers & Tour Leaders Amal Asfour has a D.Phil in the History of Art from Oxford. She lectured at the University of Vienna for many years and has published extensively on 18th century British Painting. She has a special interest in Archaic Greek temples in their landscape settings. Amal is a director of WCT. Jeremy Barnett is a former Director of the British Council in Turkey, where he lived for eight years. He read Arabic at St Andrews and Turkish Politics and Economics at the School of Oriental and African Studies in London. He has a keen interest in the politics and economics of the Balkans (including Greece), Turkey and the Middle East. Shane Brennan received his PhD from Exeter and teaches ancient history at Mardin Artuklu University in Turkey. He has travelled extensively in eastern Turkey and is the author of In the Tracks of the Ten Thousand: A Journey on Foot Through Turkey, Syria and Iraq. John Gaskin was Professor of Naturalistic Philosophy at Trinity College Dublin. His publications include works on the Epicureans, Hume, Hobbes and the philosophy of religion. His latest book The Traveller’s Guide to Classical Philosophy is published by Thames and Hudson. Stanley Ireland is Emeritus Reader in Classics and Ancient History at Warwick University. He wrote his doctoral thesis on Aeschylus and has subsequently developed a wide range of research interests including Roman Britain, Greek and Roman comedy, and ancient coinage, especially that of Asia Minor. Peter Jones worked for many years in the Classics department in Newcastle University. He writes extensively on the ancient world in academic publications and in the press (including an Ancient & Modern column in The Spectator), helps to run Friends of Classics and is involved in fund-raising for the charity Classics for All. James McKay read Classics at Oxford, graduating in 1996, and subsequently did graduate work at Newcastle. He has taught Classics at both school and university. He has wide experience of participatory arts projects and has worked in urban regeneration. He is also an experienced tour leader and is fluent in several languages, including modern Greek. Matthew Nicholls is a Senior Lecturer in Classics at Reading University. His interests include Roman architecture, literary culture and ancient public libraries. He has appeared on a number of radio broadcasts and is currently working on programmes for BBC television. Matthew is a Director of WCT.

Our lecturers are chosen for their knowledge, for their affability as travelling companions, and for their ability to communicate in a relaxed and stimulating way. Our tour leaders know the area and sites intimately and ensure that all aspects of the tours run smoothly. John Osborne graduated in Classics at Cambridge University and taught classical subjects for over thirty years at Marlborough College. He also worked for the British Council in Turkey and Iran, which gave him a now long-standing interest in Islamic culture. He is a NADFAS-accredited lecturer. John Penney has recently retired as University Lecturer in Classical Philology at Oxford University, but remains an Emeritus Fellow of Wolfson College. His is particularly interested in ancient languages (including Greek and Latin but also Hittite, Lycian and Carian) and their associated cultures. He has travelled extensively in Turkey. Richard Seaford is Professor of Ancient Greek Literature at Exeter University. His numerous publications cover subjects ranging from Homer to the New Testament, and include books on the god Dionysos, Greek drama, Greek philosophy, and the Greek economy. In 2009 he was Honorary President of the UK Classical Association. Jeremy Seal is a travel writer, author, teacher and TV presenter. He has written for numerous publications including the Sunday Telegraph, Sunday Times, Conde Nast Traveller, the Weekend Australian, and the New York Times. Jeremy was Royal Literary Fund Fellow at the University of Bath 2010-12. John Shorter worked for the British Council for many years both in the Middle East and Eastern Europe. One of his early postings was to Zagreb and he frequently returns to Croatia, a country in which he feels very much at home. He is an expert linguist and counts German, French, Polish and Serbo-Croat among his languages. Richard Stoneman is an Honorary Visiting Professor at Exeter University and a former President of the Classical Association. He is an expert on Alexander the Great and the author of numerous books on Greece and Turkey including The Ancient Oracles: making the gods speak. Richard is also the Chairman of WCT.

Andrew Wilson is Professor of the Archaeology of the Roman Empire at Oxford University and a Fellow of All Souls College. His current research interests include the economy of the Roman Empire, ancient technology, ancient water supply and usage, Roman architecture, Roman North Africa, and field survey.

Our Tour Leaders include: Ian Neill has worked in the Foreign Office and served in both Ankara and Istanbul. Emin Saatçi worked for the British Council in Istanbul for many years. He has an encyclopaedic knowledge of the city and now does work for Cornucopia, one of Turkey’s most prestigious publications. Tolga Tek is Associate Professor of Classical Archaeology at Anadolu University, Eskisehir, and specialises in the archaeology, history and coinage of ancient Lycia. David Thomas worked in the British Council for many years and taught in Ankara and Istanbul. Pinar Uşşaklı has taught English in many institutions in Ankara. For several years she managed the British Council’s literature work in Turkey and in this capacity she travelled extensively throughout the country.

WCT is run by a board of directors: Andrew Hobson (founder of the company in 1994), Silvan Robinson (Chairman from 1999-2011), Richard Stoneman (Chairman), Matthew Nicholls (University of Reading), Amal Asfour (Art Historian), June Robinson and Althea Stoneman (Company Secretary). Acknowledgements The photographs in this brochure were taken by, among others, Richard Ashton, Jeremy Barnett, Nick Bentley, David Clendenning, Sigurt Kranendonk, Rhona Lanzon, Ian Macartney, Matthew Nicholls, John Osborne, Hazel Richardson, Roger Ritchie, Pascale Sexton, Christopher Stobart and John and Kathleen Wells.

Michael Tooley is Professor of Geography at St. Andrews and Emeritus Professor at Kingston University. He lectures on environmental change, Mediterranean plants, earthquakes and tsunamis. He has written books on Thomas Wright, William Andrews Nesfield and Gertrude Jekyll. He also lectures for NADFAS.

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Booking Notes Tour Cost The tour cost for each of the itineraries includes: (a) Road transfers by minibus, full board accommodation and entrance fees to sites (b) All soft and alcoholic drinks on the boat (c) All mineral water, tea and coffee (d) All drinks at meal times when you are on land (e) All gratuities on land Not included are: (a) Flights (b) Airport taxes (c) Visas (d) Travel insurance (e) Wines and spirits on the land portion of tours (f ) Gratuities on the boat. It is customary to tip the crew at the end of the tour. We recommend £60 per person for the whole crew for a week’s tour and £100 for a two-week tour.

Industry, Westminster Classic Tours (1999) Ltd has provided a bond to meet the requirements of the Package Travel, Package Holidays and Package Tours Regulations 1992 in respect of non-flight inclusive packages only. This Bond provides security for money paid over by customers and for the repatriation of customers in the event of Westminster Classic Tours (1999) Ltd’s insolvency. Note: Repatriation will be provided only if the travel component of your trip was paid to us.

Booking Conditions of Westminster Classic Tours (1999) Limited (‘The Company’) All bookings are made subject to the following conditions: Booking Your booking is confirmed from the date we send confirmation to you of receipt of your booking form and deposit cheque. The balance of the cost of the holiday is due 8 weeks prior to departure. If a booking is made during this 8 week period then the full amount will be payable.

How to Book

Cancellation by you

Please call to check availability. Once your cabin is confirmed, please complete the enclosed booking form and send it to us with your deposit of £450 per person.

If you wish to cancel your booking you must do so in writing. You will then be subject to the following cancellation charges.

Passport, Visa & Health

If this results in an increase of more than 10% of the holiday price you will be entitled to cancel your holiday with a full refund of all monies paid. The Company will not change the price 30 days or less prior to departure. Negligence The Company cannot accept any liability arising from negligence by any third party such as (but not limited to) airlines (including groundhandlers). The Company is not liable for loss or damage caused by the negligence of its customers. International Conventions/Liability

Amount of cancellation charge

More than 56 days

Deposit only

Complaints

56 - 36 days

40%

35 - 22 days

60%

21 days or less

100%

What to Expect After Booking and Before Departure

Insurance

We will send confirmation of your booking and a list of books which you may find useful. We will also send an invoice for the balance of the tour cost which is due eight weeks before departure. On receipt of the balance we will send you a six or seven page general information document, which will include details of your tour leader/lecturer, and advice on health, money and clothing etc.

It is a requirement of the booking that you have full medical insurance, including repatriation.

30 | Westminster Classic Tours 2012

The Company reserves the right to increase the price of your holiday in the event of any increase in such costs as transport and fuel, fees, taxes or exchange rates.

Days before departure date

If you do not pay the balance of the cost of the holiday 8 weeks prior to departure the Company reserves the right to cancel your booking.

As a member of the Association of Bonded Travel Organisers Trust Limited (ABTOT), an Association approved by the Department of Trade and

Tour Cost

In the case of damage arising from the non-performance or improper performance of the services involved, compensation will be limited in accordance with the international conventions which govern such services.

You will need a passport which does not expire less than six months after the end of your holiday. UK nationals need to purchase visas (£10) on arrival in Turkey. Initial applications in the UK are not required. Guidelines laid down by the Department of Health do not require any specific inoculations for the parts of Turkey covered by our tours. That said, upto-date tetanus is advisable. Tetanus and polio vaccinations are advised for Croatia.

Do not hesitate to ring us if you require further information.

The Company does not accept responsibility for cancellation or changes in the holiday for reasons beyond its control such as (but not limited to) terrorist activities, civil unrest, closure of airports, technical problems with transport, adverse weather conditions, strikes, and all similar events outside its control whether these events are threatened or actual. The Company reserves the right to change its tour leaders or lecturers should circumstances so require.

Changes or Cancellation by us We will make every effort to operate the holiday according to the itinerary on the brochure but the Company reserves the right to alter any arrangement of the tour where circumstances arise beyond the Company’s control. If there are fewer than 6 passengers booked on any tour not less than 6 weeks before departure the Company reserves the right to cancel any booking with a full refund.

Any complaints must be reported immediately and in any event within 24 hours to the tour leader who will do everything possible to resolve the matter.

Westminster

Classic Tours Ltd Tel: +44 (0)208 286 7842 Email: info@westminsterclassictours.com Web: www.westminsterclassictours.com Post: PO Box 68527 LONDON SW15 9EU, UK


Booking Form Departure Date

Westminster Classic Tours Ltd PO Box 68527, London, SW15 9EU, UK

Tour Title

Travellers’ Passport Details Title

Surname (as on passport)

First Names (as on passport)

Passport number

Issue Date

Expiry Date

1. 2. 3. 4.

Travellers’ Personal Details Preferred Name

Date of Birth

Nationality

Profession (or former)

Next of Kin and Contact Details

1.

Address for correspondence

2. 3. 4.

Travellers’ Health Does any traveller have any disability or medical condition which might in any way prevent them from participating in the tour? If yes please give details

Special Requests (e.g. dietary)

Contact Numbers

1.

Tel No. (home):

2.

Tel No. (mob):

3.

Email:

4.

Flights: Would you like us to advise on flights for you?

T(Please tick)

Yes

No

Travel Insurance: If you have already obtained travel insurance, please fill in details below Name of insurance company

Policy Number

Emergency telephone number

I hereby confirm my booking according to the details entered on this form and subject to the Booking Conditions adjacent to this form. I also enclose my deposit cheque for £450 per person in favour of Westminster Classic Tours (1999) Ltd.

Signed

Dated

T. +44 (0)208 286 7842 | E. info@westminsterclassictours.com | www.westminsterclassictours.com | 31


Western Turkey & Greek Islands

Istanbul Sea of Marmara

Gallipoli Çanakkale Troy

Dalmatian Coast

Bursa

Zadar

BOSNIA

CROATIA Lesvos

Aegean Sea

Sarajevo

Šibenik Kornati Archipelago

TURKEY

Pergamon

Trogir

Split Brač

Chios

Izmir

Vıs

Samos

Paros

Delos

Aphrodisias Sagalassos

Naxos

Santorini

Mljet Dubrovnik

Patmos

CARIA

Bodrum Amorgos Astypalaia

Hvar Korčula

Ephesos Mykonos

Mostar

Marmaris

Kos Datça

Dalaman

Göcek

Antalya

LYCIA

Westminster Classic Tours Ltd Kemer

Rhodes Rhodes

KaŞ

Myra Kekova

PO Box 68527, London, SW15 9EU, UK Tel: +44 (0)208 286 7842 Email: info@westminsterclassictours.com Web: www.westminsterclassictours.com


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