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EDITORIAL
Sophie Sadler
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Tom Henshaw
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DESIGN
Phil Harding phil@tomorrowalgarve.com
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TomorrowAlgarve
@TomorrowAlgarve
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singer Cuca Roseta © Ricardo Santos
Dear readers of Tomorrow magazine,
For millennia, humanity has passed down stories to keep memories safe and pass knowledge of events to future generations. Now, we watch endlessly rotating news headlines and scroll through news feeds on our smartphones. I am sure some of what is happening in the world news is giving you extreme anxiety, as it is me. So, at Tomorrow magazine, we are getting back to stories to entertain and inform residents and tourists with some beautiful tales about the Algarve.
We start in the past with the Barn of History, as the Vila do Bispo museum takes us on a journey back to the megalithic cultures of over six thousand years ago. Then James Plaskitt introduces us to the Marquis do Pombal, who rebuilt Lisbon after the devastating earthquake of 1755.
Vaughan Willmore enchants with his description of an international superstar famed in Brazil in the 1920s for her beauty, singing, dancing and flamboyant costumes. What’s less known is that the so-called ‘Brazilian Bombshell’ was Portuguese by birth.
Then Luka Alexander shares the story of one British serviceman who stopped off in Lisbon en route to fight the Ottoman Turks and liberate the Gallipoli peninsula and sadly gave his life for our future freedom. Wilfred Gregory, born on 17 August 1883, in Reading, England,
was a private in the 6th Service Battalion Lincolnshire Regiment and Luka´s great-great uncle. For the first time we publish the letter he sent his mother from Lisbon.
Did you know that the beautiful Iberian lynx has just come off the endangered list due to the amazing conservation work of a joint initiative between Spain and Portugal? Join me as I talk to the coordinator of the Silves Captive Breeding Centre, biologist João Alves, and have a peek at the cubs who have just been born there and will hopefully be released into the wild in the next year.
During your holidays, you need not turn to celebrity gossip news feeds as we give you Dancing on Ice 2024 winner Ryan Thomas and tell you more about his Padel academy. Or be dazzled by Portuguese fado sensation Cuca, fresh from her performance at Hyde Park in London.
So sit back on your sunlounger, pour yourself a sangria, and enjoy our stories in these pages. Or if you would rather close your eyes and put in your airpods, go to our new podcast to enjoy more narratives from the Algarve.
Have a great month from Sophie, Tom, Phil and the Tomorrow team.
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Once on the brink of extinction, the Iberian lynx has seen a resurgence in recent years thanks to breeding programmes and habitat restoration efforts. Sophie Sadler visited the breeding centre in Silves (Centro Nacional de Reprodução de Lince-Ibérico – CNRLI) just after the species’ reclassification from endangered to vulnerable.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
On arriving at the Iberian lynx reproduction centre, I sense the aura of Area 51. Surrounded by hills and barren scrubland, a guard waves me into the centre. I survey the large enclosures, which hide the precious inhabitants, who, only 25 years ago, were a whisker away from extinction. When the conservation plan began, only a few dozen individuals were left in the wild, and many feared that this majestic feline would disappear forever. However, through collaboration and determination, the Iberian lynx is now thriving once again in its natural environment.
I last visited the centre in 2018 when a forest fire forced the evacuation of its residents. But, today, there is more of a celebratory mood when I meet biologist João Alves, the national coordinator of the Iberian lynx conservation programme. Thanks to a two-decade-long effort by Spain and Portugal, the Iberian lynx has recently been moved from the ‘endangered’ to ‘vulnerable’ category on the global red list of threatened species.
The achievement is the result of a coalition of partners, including the EU and regional and national governments in Spain and Portugal, as well as wildlife NGOs, landowners, hunters, mayors and local people. According to the latest census, the lynx population on the peninsula has risen from just 94 in 2002 to 2,021 last year, the majority – almost 86% – found in Spain.
João is a cog in this mighty wheel that has brought back such a beautiful species, which is
not only aesthetically pleasing but an essential part of the Iberian natural ecosystem. João is a biologist who has worked for Instituto da Conservação da Natureza e das Florestas (ICNF) since 1982. He says his work on the lynx project “is a marathon, a persistent but not a speedy process”. His predecessors started the work in 2008 and he has carried the baton for 11 years and maybe others will complete it. But everyone involved has been focused on preserving the species, with the goal of achieving a selfsustaining population.
Part of the reason for the reproduction centre´s existence is the vast reservoir that I can see sparkling like a mirage in the valley below amongst the otherwise sun-scorched bushland. João and I stand on a hill looking down into the area containing the shelters so he can show me where the lynx are housed and how they train them to survive in the wild. When Águas do Algarve constructed the Odelouca Dam, the land taken by the reservoir occupied such a large area that it took over the potential habitat of lynx. As a result, the EU ordered Águas do Algarve to construct a lynx reproduction centre to compensate for the environmental impact. Therefore the Algarve´s water company purchased Herdade das Santinhas, where we are standing and built the 16 lynx enclosures, a house for technical centre director Rodrigo Serra and the houses for volunteers and the technicians when they arrive from Spain to transport the animals. There are also offices, a kitchen and
a veterinary clinic, where they take blood to analyse and check that the animals are healthy.
The centre is run by ICNF, a public institute that is responsible for nature conservation, biodiversity and forests. An agreement between Spain and Portugal in 2009 sealed the deal to send 17 lynx to this centre after Portugal joined the Spanish plan for reproduction in captivity in 2007. Since then, the Iberian lynx has been part of a national conservation plan (PACLIP 2008), and it is the first species to have this protection in Portugal. So few animals remained; this was their last chance to save the species. There are another three breeding centres in Spain. The first female, Azahar, arrived in the reproduction centre in the Algarve from Andalucia in October 2009. Since her arrival, every new generation has been given a name starting with the next letter in the alphabet.
In 2015, the conservation plan was revised under the National Plan for Conservation (PACLIP 2015) to incorporate the improvement of national habitat, communication, the inclusion of academic study by academies and universities, and the study of genetics, disease and behaviour. The centre is currently home to 30 animals, 25 adults and five cubs born this year. Along with
the Spanish centres, they released their first captive-bred animals at the end of 2014 and the Spring of 2015, releasing ten lynx near Mértola in Portugal. Three hundred lynx bred in captivity in the Portuguese and Spanish breeding centres are now living in the wild in Portugal, and some have travelled to Alcoutim, near the Spanish border, to form a new colony. In the whole Iberian Peninsula, there are now 2,021 recorded lynx living in the wild.
I was interested to learn that the Iberian lynx originally existed in the valley below us. One of the locals from Monchique recalls that his grandfather had found a cub in the wild and kept it as a pet, thinking it was a wild cat. So we know that in the last 50 years, there have been wild lynx in this valley.
Part of the reason for the lynx´s past decline is its inability to adapt to intense and very rapid changes in their territory caused by human factors and its continued reliance on wild rabbit for food. Crashes in the rabbit population from myxomatosis and rabbit haemorrhagic disease, in turn, resulted in a decline in the lynx population. As a result, a crucial part of the centre´s efforts is ensuring that the young lynx can hunt its preferred food source.
João points out the nursery pens where the mothers give birth to and nurture the young while they are weaned and the mother teaches them natural behaviours. A second site was built after my last visit. It is here that the juvenile hunters are placed, along with a number of unfortunate
rabbits whose life´s work is to be part of the effort to re-establish the lynx population. The rabbits are released into a series of tunnels so the young lynx don’t associate humans with food. When the rabbits appear from the tunnels, the lynx has to learn to hunt them, which is closely observed by the team at the centre. They cannot be released if they fail, as they would starve in the wild. Older animals are given a less challenging meal of preprepared meat from the supermarket!
The unfortunate rabbits are taking one for the team, as in João´s words, “In the wild, the lynx act as doctors, enhancing a natural selection process whereby the weaker and ill rabbits are easy prey for the lynx, meaning they get taken out and are unable to spread disease to others.”
One released lynx named Paprica (from generation P!) learned that she liked the taste of chicken. João thinks this is because the rabbit population might have depleted, so she found alternative food at the chicken coops in the small village of Corte Sines, north of Mértola. Typically, lynx hunt nocturnally, so ICNF with financial support from the LIFE Lynxconnect project, improved the fences for the farmer so that the chickens were protected when they were locked up at night. However, Paprica soon learnt that this treat was only available during daylight hours, so she arrived during the day. Therefore, the programme had to move Paprica out of temptation’s way, hoping she would forget the culinary delight of fresh chicken.
After observing the centre from above, we drive down to the main complex, which houses a series of offices and a dining area for the staff. I am shown into a room with an array of monitors across one wall, showing the inside of the enclosures. It is like the Big Brother house, but for lynx, where every behaviour and interaction is scrutinised – in this case, not for public entertainment but for their own safety.
I met Marta Cabaca, who trained as a biologist specialising in animal behaviour. She is on the observation shift in the ‘Big Brother’ house, where the precious animals are closely watched. There are two mothers in separate enclosures on the monitors: Retama with her three cubs and René with her two cubs. They will pass on their knowledge and skills to the cubs so that, hopefully, they can be released back into the wild
when they are a year old. It is a scorching day and they are sleeping before becoming more active later.
As I observe them through the black-and-white images, it is easy to mistake them for domestic felines as they cat nap. Two cubs wake up briefly to have a play fight, blissfully unaware that the future of their species is in their paws! It is important to observe them as it is not uncommon for play fighting to cause serious injury as they develop their predatory skills. Where handling is required, tranquillisers are used. The animals are not tame. The centre’s staff also monitor the rest of the captive population to monitor their health and behaviour.
To breed, lynx have a socialisation period with a fence in the middle to check how they behave with each other. If there are no signs of animosity, they are then put together to mate in December. This process also has to be closely monitored. There was an incident a couple of years ago when the male and female didn´t get on and started to fight, so they had to be separated. The male remains with the female until about two weeks before she is due to give birth when they are separated into the neighbouring enclosure.
While the females are giving birth, Marta, the team and young volunteers observe while trying not to interfere. They only get involved if they see a problem with either the mother or cub, which they assess on a case-by-case basis. The average number of cubs is three, but they can have up to five. Only on one occasion have they kept a non-aggressive, non-territorial male together with the female and cubs. In the wild, males and females may have overlapping territories, and although they don’t operate as a family unit, they will occasionally interact. They mark their territory with urine and rubbing their beard and paws on objects.
While the Portuguese government finances the Portuguese reproduction programme, the EU financed the reintroduction programmes from here and the Spanish units. Since 2014 reintroduction has taken place in Mértola and Serpa in the Guadiana Valley. The area was chosen after a census of the rabbit population confirmed that there was enough food to support the lynx.
Through education initiatives and community outreach programs, people have learned about the importance of coexisting with these magnificent animals and the need to safeguard their future.
In Mértola and Serpa municipalities the intitial project LIFE Iberlince spoke to local communities and associations of hunters who signed agreements, in 2014 and 2015, to ensure that the locals were on the same side. Now, the resident population is capitalising on their new inhabitants. Although it is still doubtful that you will see one in the wild, there are wine producers using the lynx as their emblem, while a brand of biscuit has been made in their honour.
Today a female and a cub are being released and are on the road to their release site. Our interview is interrupted when João takes a call as one of the vehicles has broken down, another of many logistical obstacles he needs to overcome on a daily basis. The pair are part of an experiment to see if releasing a mother with her cub is successful, as the reproduction centres are full of older animals that cannot be released. Some go to zoos in Lisbon and Madrid and the municipality in Vila Nova de Gaia near Porto is finalising a special installation for two animals. “We obviously do not euthanise the older animals, but we want to release the enclosures for reproduction. You cannot keep the lynx together as they fight.”
Another solution is to house surplus lynx (elderly former progenitors, or young lynx unsuitable for release, due to having genetic defects) is the Serra da Malcata Natural Reserve. The mayors of Penamacor and Sabugal intend to build reception enclosures for these surplus specimens, and are eagerly awaiting the natural return of the Iberian lynx to that territory. The Malcata reserve, created in 1981, mainly to protect the lynx spans 16,348 hectares and stretches across the municipalities of Sabugal and Penamacor, bordering Spain to the east. However the census of 2012 and 2013 showed there were virtually
no wild rabbit in this area and so no lynx were ever released here, a fact that locals are trying to rectify . The two municipalities, together with other entities, have been promoting initiatives aimed at restoring wild rabbit densities which will enable the return of breeding female lynx and, at the same time, the food sustainability of other relevant species, including several birds of prey.
by batteries that generally only last two years. They are experimenting with new technology to try to make the tags solar-powered.
Sadly, once out of the reproduction centre’s nurturing environment, many familiar threats have not gone away. Last year, 144 lynx were killed on Spanish and Portuguese roads, although João told me about a pioneering new technique which the public enterprise Infraestruturas de Portugal SA and ICNF were developing. This technology uses LoRaWAN, a wireless area network to connect with the Waze navigation app. They have introduced advanced features to protect lynx from getting run over, aiming to alert drivers of the animals’ presence and prevent accidents. However, this will only work with tagged animals, so those who are born in the wild or have not been subsequently captured for health checks, will not have a collar.
In addition to the threat from motorists, 45 more lynx died from disease or other causes. But the biggest worry is the damage being done to rabbit populations by rabbit haemorrhagic disease and the loss of habitat for the lynx’s preferred prey.
If all this sounds quite straightforward, then it should be noted that the team has one big headache – genetics. João explains, “Genetics are key because all of the lynx came from a very depleted population, so there is a very small gene pool. So, in the reproduction centres, we try to find two adults who are genetically far apart to mate. But this is a problem in the wild as we can’t control the mating, the dominant male will reproduce with several females, which will bring the gene pool down again. So sometimes it is necessary to catch a dominant male and put him in another place, and introduce a new male from a different population.”
Some males also have the natural instinct to return to their birthplace, which is what two brothers, Khan and Kentaro, did after being released at Montes de Toledo, south of Madrid. Remarkably they crossed the Tagus and entered Portugal. One of the brothers was sadly hit by a car, but the other made it to Serra de Monchique and the GPS trackers that they placed on the released lynx revealed that he had reached the perimeter fence of the facility before heading off into the Alentejo. They lost track of him near São Teotónio in the muncicipality of Odemira, as their electronic tags are operated
The programme tries to capture 10% of each population nucleus to take blood for analysis to check for diseases that could risk the survival of the whole population. Fortunately, up to this point, they have no threatening illnesses. They are also vaccinated before leaving the centre and when captured in the wild.
Despite the undeniable threats, João is confident that, by 2035, there will be a self-sustaining population in the wild, so the reproduction of lynx in captivity, will no longer be necessary, which, by all accounts, would be an amazing achievement.”The Iberian lynx breeding programme must be reconfigured to maintain a small population of genetically valuable progenitors in captivity and produce only specimens that can be used to carry out qualitative genetic management of the populations that have been reconstituted in Portugal and Spain,” concludes João.
Don´t miss our podcast about the Iberian Lynx Reproduction Centre to hear our interview with João Alves and find out more about this fascinating conservation project.
Streaming on Spotify, Apple Podcast and YouTube on the 2nd of August.
tomorrowalgarve.com/ podcast-talk-about-tomorrow
For Spain and Portugal, the reintroduction of the Iberian lynx continues to be a cause for celebration for both locals and wildlife enthusiasts. Not only does it signify the success of conservation efforts, but it also highlights the importance of preserving our natural world for future generations. With continued support and dedication, we can ensure that this iconic species remains a cherished part of the Iberian landscape for generations to come.
on the beautiful Marina de Lagos
We serve freshly prepared food from breakfast through to dinner everyday. A full varied menu along with daily specials and fresh fish means there is something for everyone, including vegetarian and vegan options and a gluten free menu.
Our experienced bar tenders serve amazing drinks, from our cocktail, gin and wine lists including international and Portuguese wines not to forget a cool pint of Estrella served in a chilled glass plus our healthy smoothies.
WORDS Louise Hudson
With sporting celebs like David Beckham, Cristiano Ronaldo and Serena Williams promoting their passion for padel, this easy-entry sport is exploding in popularity, notching up over 25 million players in 110 countries so far. Portugal was a relatively early adopter, and there are now more than 100 courts across the Algarve. Although many clubs combine padel with other sports, Ocean Padel Club Luz is 100 per cent padel and it recently attracted its own celebrities when British soap star and Dancing on Ice 2024 winner Ryan Thomas took his PDL Academy there for a long weekend of padel training and tournaments in June.
Thomas didn’t randomly choose the Luz venue. His fiancée, Lucy Mecklenburgh, runs RWL
(Results Wellness Lifestyle), a leading UK online fitness platform, and her business partner lives in Lagos. “They had been organising fitness retreats from a villa in Lagos, and I jumped on the back of that, using the villa to accommodate my padel academy,” says Thomas. Mecklenburgh’s Summer Shred 2024 fitness programme has bonus content filmed at the villa with breathtaking beach views over Meia Praia, where components of her Results Retreats are also held.
Through the RWL connection, Thomas discovered OPC Luz: “I love the place, the set-up, the clubhouse, the viewing balcony. It’s hard to find somewhere that is enclosed like that and has everything you could want in one place.” In 2023, he brought a group of 16 players from the UK and this June, his academy consisted of eight locals and eight visitors, including his brother Scott, a former Premier League footballer with Manchester City who also appeared in Love Island. Thomas, himself, was a longtime actor with Coronation Street and Neighbours, and the 2018 winner of Celebrity Big Brother.
The four-day academy includes a sunrise paddleboard around the Lagos coast and caves, clifftop walks, and meals crafted by chef Andreas Kakas. There’s also a dinner at Quinta do Lago, as well as a prize-giving ceremony with live music. The intense padel action is assuaged by Fitpros, who help the players stretch and massage away their aches and pains. This year each player donned specially designed PDL Academy t-shirts for their OPC games. “It signifies our brand and creates unity by having everyone wearing the same t-shirts,” Thomas explains.
Currently planning a series of events at OPC Luz for this October, November and December, Ryan says his academy just gets bigger and better, with the standard going up each time: “It’s spreading through word-of-mouth, so we’ll have some new people as well as some of the same players coming back.” In the future, he is anticipating different themes, including mixed, beginners and advanced. With four days of training and fun activities, PDL Academy culminated in a closely fought tournament which was won by locals Clive Ewins, a British squash champion, and Chris Burr, both of whom live in Luz. “Chris even has a padel court in his back garden,” says Thomas.
His own padel journey has been all-consuming. “It’s causing me problems at home as I’m out of the house so much,” he jokes. “I was 40 this year and realised that playing football and contact sports makes you very prone to injury. Although you can get injured in padel, of course, there is less chance, less impact.” He celebrated his 40th with a lavish party at Botânico in Quinta do Lago.
But, for those who watched him on the OPC padel courts this June, he is not showing signs of slowing down despite this milestone birthday. Thomas is also drawn to the social side of the game: “It has that teamwork ethic, and I just meet a lot of new people. Each game opens doors for more opportunities.” One of the clubs he frequents back home is The Padel Club in Wilmslow, part-owned by Paul and Mandy Gilbert, who also play padel at OPC Luz whenever they are visiting their second home in Porto Dona Maria.
With its state-of-the-art, high-quality Mondo Supercourt turf, the Luz club is set up for tournaments as well as regular gameplay. “It’s the same turf used at the World Padel Tour,” says co-owner Peter Bruun. “This turf will give the players a better experience and avoid problems with knees and hips.” A keen player himself, Bruun is part of a Swedish league, called the Caneca Cup. It’s just one of the variety of groups that OPC Luz encouraged when it opened in spring 2021. “With the knowledge from other padel projects, we have focused on a friendly and welcoming atmosphere at OPC Luz,” explains Bruun. “Everyone should feel that there is a group to join and fit in at the club. The benefit of the different social groups is that you could move forward in the group if you improve your game, and you don’t need to bring players with you to have a game.”
Newly relocated residents and new players have been attracted to the social padel groups as a way to learn the game, make friends and keep fit outdoors. Through the club’s biggest group, Let’s Play Padel, there are opportunities to play among a 24-person line-up five times per week with like-minded people of all nationalities, some residents, some passing through.
Other padel facilities around the area include Burgau Sports Centre and Clube de Ténis e Padel de Lagos. There’s also one court at the Hotel Bela Vista and one in Porto de Mós, at the Magnolia Mar Beach Club, while two padel courts are also under construction on Boavista Golf & Spa resort.
With its dynamic serve, larger court and need for hardhitting, tennis can take a toll on the body, leading to early retirement through injury. Padel is easier on the joints. The serve is very simple – just drop the ball and hit underarm. The stockier, short-handled racket made of fibreglass or carbon fibre with a foam core is lighter than a tennis racket and easier to handle, and the softer ball is easier to hit. As padel is always played in pairs as a doubles match on a smaller court (10m by 20m), there’s less ground to cover. Despite this ease of entry, it is a very strategic and challenging game due to the rebounding and ricocheting glass walls, with the potential for long and exhilarating rallies. And the gymnastic attempts to get balls back at every level lead to much animation and laughter, along with the endorphin rush.
Frustrated golfers and injured tennis players are investigating padel as an alternative sport with a more relaxed gameplay and the possibility of sporting longevity. “I was a keen golfer and tennis player – until Ocean Padel Club came to Luz,” says Sue Moyes, who plays at OPC Luz and Burgau. “On the day I decided to give padel a go, I was
hooked and I became addicted to the game. Age doesn’t matter, ability doesn’t matter – having fun is what matters! Long may it last.”
While having experience in other racket sports can help speed the transition to padel, it is not necessary to have that background. Total novices can quickly get up to speed by taking padel lessons and learning specific grips, shots, positioning, strategies, and manoeuvres. Although many people hope that playing padel will help them reach their fitness goals, it is advisable to get fit in the gym, or with a yoga or Pilates class beforehand. Warming up the whole body before going on court each time and stretching afterwards is also highly recommended.
With so many benefits, it is clear that padel is here to stay and is going to be a huge boost to tourism here in the Algarve. The game offers another healthy activity for people to engage in all year round. And with celebrity endorsers like Ryan Thomas, its popularity is sure to keep growing with visitors and residents alike.
WhatsApp Let’s Play Padel Group: +351 925 392 627 www.oceanpadelclub.com pdl.academy
rwl.fitness/summer-shred-24 www.thepadelclub.co.uk pedragosa.pt
Another regular with Let’s Play Padel says that padel was the turning point when she was widowed and considering returning to the UK. “I was widowed shortly after buying a house in Luz,” says Alison Waite. “Although I knew people in the general area, I didn’t actually know anyone in Luz. I would regularly walk into Luz without seeing any familiar faces. That continued for four years, until the padel club opened.” With a background in schoolgirl tennis, Waite joined the group and, within two sessions, was convinced. “The unexpected side of padel was the social life it afforded me. Most people went for drinks afterwards and for the first time in my life I was comfortable going to the bar on my own. Everyone was very friendly, I made lots of new friends and even arranged a couple of wine tastings there.” When she walks into Luz nowadays, she has to allow an extra ten minutes to chat to passersby, all of whom she met through the padel club.
Originally from Ireland, Carrie Shanagan has been sharing the 24-hour care for a friend’s elderly father since moving here from Dubai in 2020. A chance conversation at Luz’s House of Beauty led to her first padel experience and she’s been hooked ever since. Both the activity and the social side have given her respite from her care responsibilities as well as an entrée into the wider Luz community. “I recommend it as it is a fun way to keep fit,” she says. “It allows you to get into a new activity gently and, when you are ready, you can play more competitively. It’s not the fastest growing sport without good reason.”
Piotr Cholewa has replaced both tennis and squash with padel. “The rules of the game and games conducted in the form of mini-tournaments or leagues make it possible to participate in padel almost every day, at any skill level,” he says. “I definitely do more sports now than before.” It has captivated his whole family, including his wife Joanna, two daughters, one son and a grandson. “If we go on holiday together, we look for places with a padel court and we play as a family,” he says. “Two days ago, three generations of our family played padel in Luz. It is a wonderful sport and our Ocean Club in Luz is at a high level.” He also plays regularly at Burgau Sports Centre. Moving from Poland to settle in Barão de São João, Cholewa bought the 2.4-hectare Quinta da Pedragosa Vineyard in August 2022. Cultivating 25-year-old grapes, Cholewa is creating DOP Lagos-certified Algarve wines. The padel community at Burgau and Luz has been the perfect audience for wine tastings, with one hosted in June at Burgau Sports Centre and another by the Let’s Play Padel group in July.
“Since discovering the Ocean Padel Club, we have both met so many different and interesting people and we now enjoy a good social life,” says Belinda Middleton, who had been struggling to establish social circles since moving full-time to Espiche with her husband in 2017. “Although I loved the area and the outdoor life, to start with I found it very difficult to adjust – I missed our children, even though they had grown up and left home, and my days lacked focus. Although I had my parents living here, it was difficult to meet like-minded people and socialise.” Playing three times a week with groups, she now has a wide circle of friends and a busy social calendar emanating from padel.
Relocating from Florida in April 2021, Bill and Andrea Vega first started playing padel at OPC Luz. After moving to Porto de Mós, they also added the Magnolia Mar Beach Club court to their repertoire, staging a small tournament with a BBQ there last year. “I had never heard of padel tennis until three years ago when my wife and I moved to Portugal,” says Bill Vega. “Everything changed when I stumbled upon padel via a post on Facebook. At first, I was very hesitant and it took me several weeks before I inquired, but it turned out to be one of the best, smartest things I have ever done.” Vega particularly likes the smaller court size compared to tennis and the nuances of play provided by the glass back and side walls. “I quickly realised that padel tennis was not just a sport but a blend of physical exertion and mental agility,” he recalls. “Immediately padel tennis became more than just a pastime; it has become a passion and a healthy addiction.” The physicality makes him fitter and more energised with improvements to his stamina, strength and overall health: “I tell all my friends padel tennis is the most fun I’ve ever had while actually getting a great workout.” The social elements have been equally transformative: “I have met people from various walks of life, united by our love for this sport.” And the friendships forged have smoothed the couple’s transition from the US to Portugal.
Many people cite padel as a major reason they have settled so well in the Algarve and, for some, a factor in deciding where they would buy property. American Ken Fader and his wife Sherry were intent on house-hunting in Carvoeiro until they discovered the OPC Luz club. “It was the time of COVID-19 and we were renting in Carvoeiro,” says Fader. “I had no success in securing a game at the club there, but someone told me about a welcoming group of padel players in Luz. Soon, I was playing three times a week and often commuting to Luz twice a day to return with my wife for social activities.” From that moment, the allure of padel on their doorstep was too strong to resist and they purchased a villa in Quinta da Bela Vista.
An exclusive Tomorrow interview with
We meet Cuca Roseta, one of the world’s most talented, interesting and innovative fadistas
WORDS Vaughan Willmore
“Your fate is to be happy. Only you decide when you cry or laugh.”
‘O Teu Fado é ser Feliz’ by Cuca Roseta
We meet 48 hours before Cuca will be performing in Hyde Park, London, where she’ll be sharing a stage with the world-renowned opera singer Andrea Bocelli. Immediately after, she’ll fly back to Portugal to resume her work as a mentor on RTP’s primetime show, The Kids Voice
I love Cuca’s music and her interpretation of fado. She often brings a lightness and humour to her music that’s not typically to the fore in other interpretations of fado Cuca’s latest video for ‘Chamem o FBI do Coração’ (Call the FBI of the Heart) highlights this, as do songs (and videos) such as ‘Amor Por Favor’ (Love Please). She does all this while remaining true to the traditions of the genre. She told me, “The most important word that defines fado is ‘truth’. I perhaps place less importance on the pain and suffering and focus on the light. I consider happiness and sadness to be two wings of the same bird,” said Cuca, “and only you choose what to do with those feelings.”
Born Maria Isabel Rebelo Roseta in Lisbon, Portugal, Cuca demonstrated her educational prowess by gaining a degree in psychology. She’d started singing at a young age, honing her skills in local clubs and festivals. Before too long she’d caught the attention of music industry insiders, who recognised her undeniable talent and unique vocal style.
At first, her talents led her into the pop music genre and while she enjoyed that part of her career and the opportunities it presented, it was the traditions of fado that captured her heart. “Fado was my destiny,” she told me.
In 2011, Cuca released her self-titled debut album, which quickly garnered critical acclaim and a burgeoning reputation. Her haunting voice and emotive performances drew comparisons to the legends of fado, earning her a dedicated fan base and bringing the genre to a new generation of listeners. Since then, she has released six more albums, including the critically acclaimed Raiz (Root) and Luz (Light). Her music typically explores themes of love, loss and longing and the deep emotions that lie at the heart of fado
Cuca Roseta’s continued success has led her to perform in more than 50 countries, including most of Europe, Brazil, India, China, the United States, Saudi Arabia and Ecuador, plus many more. To celebrate the fifteenth year of her professional career, Cuca is now busy touring her ‘15 Years of Fado’ show, which includes dates in the Algarve and culminates in a headline-grabbing concert in December at the 20,000-capacity Meo Arena in Lisbon. It promises to be a fantastic event.
In addition to her music career, Cuca Roseta is known for her stylish and glamorous image. With her striking looks and impeccable fashion sense, she has become a style icon gracing the covers of magazines. Despite her fame and success, she’s remained down-to-earth and is respected for her charitable work, supporting numerous causes that are close to her heart. Last year, she supported World Youth Day when she had the privilege of performing before Pope Francis. She’s also an ambassador for The Mirpuri Foundation, which is committed to making the world a better place for future generations by making a positive difference regarding the most pressing issues threatening our planet.
In her personal life, Cuca knows the UK and the Algarve very well indeed. Her husband, João Lapa, is from Tavira and is a professional football coach who recently spent four years working at Wolverhampton Wanderers FC. They’ve been married for seven years and have family near Almancil. Such is their shared love of the Algarve, they are intent on buying a property here.
It was an honour and a privilege to speak to this incredible talent who is keeping the tradition of fado alive by giving it a modern and commercial twist.
Cuca has a new album out in October.
cucaroseta.com
I consider happiness and sadness to be two wings of the same bird, and only you choose what to do with those feelings
- Cuca Roseta
WORDS Luka Alexander
For over fifty-five years, Professor Herrero entertained crowds across the Algarve’s many hotels and resorts, performing mystical sleight of hand and unique illusions, some of which won him numerous awards in the magic community. His polished performances and extravagant shows are now sadly only a memory, as one of the Algarve’s most famous magicians has died.
Born Dagoberto Cabrita Campos on 25 July 1953 in the municipality of Silves, the premier Algarvian magician went under the stage name of Professor Herrero. The name resulted from a heckle during a show in Spain when, during the ‘bed of nails’ stunt, someone in the audience shouted out, ‘El hombre es un herrero!’ (the man is a blacksmith).
Herrero’s first show was at the Sociedade Recreativa de Carvoeiro at the tender age of thirteen. Over the years, his repertoire grew into one of the best-loved shows of the Algarve tourism scene, securing him work alongside the Algarve Regional Tourism Commission.
One of his most famous effects was the levitating dog, in which his pet poodle, whose fur was dyed a bright colour, would levitate in mid-air, an illusion that would win him an award and became a widely known effect within the world of magic. Herrero performed alongside his lifelong love, wife Rosy, always taking the lead. Later, their act included their pet macaw, whom they aptly named Houdini, as the bird would magically penetrate through a solid perspex, panelled window.
In 2021, Herrero was honoured by the Lagoa Chamber during the International Magic Festival, and he has accumulated a host of other awards throughout his long career, including Personality of the Year, which he won twice in a row, the Career Award by Loulé City Council. He was also awarded the title of “Most versatile in the world’ by the Guinness World Records. On Friday, 13 May 2022, Prof. Herrero was honoured with a special tribute dinner in the company of two hundred guests, who gathered to celebrate his fifty-five-year career – a celebration promoted by the Municipality of Lagoa.
Apart from performing on stage, he was a well-established hypnotist, helping others to quit smoking, improve their sleep, and overcome other daily challenges. He was an accomplished author, writing several books on magic theology, and created Jantares dos 13, a cabaret evening held every Friday the thirteenth when guests were seated at tables of thirteen. Professor Herrero was also a columnist, often contributing to the Barlavento newspaper.
Professor Herrero captivated audiences with his wacky magic and somewhat wizard-like appearance for decades, bringing joy to locals and tourists alike for over half a century. He has made over 300 appearances alone on television in Portugal, Spain and Germany. Having been enchanted by the world of magic since he was a child, Prof.
Later in life, Herrero would step out of the spotlight and go into retirement. Sadly, on 12 June 2024, the Algarve’s best-loved magician passed away in Faro Hospital, aged 70, just one month shy of his 71st birthday. Survived by his wife Rosy and daughter Débora, Professor Herrero leaves a huge void to be filled as arguably the Algarve’s most famous magician.
Professor Herrero’s funeral took place on 17 June at the Igreja da Misericórdia in Lagoa.
The Broken Wand Ceremony is a ritual performed when a magician dies. His wand is ceremonially broken, symbolising that the ‘magic’ has come to an end.
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Many around the world have attempted and succeeded in winning a spot in the Guinness World Records for feats that may seem impossible for mankind. Now, a community group in Monchique is looking to create the world's largest boot.
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY Luka Alexander
‘A maior bota do mundo’ was the brainchild of the Monchique Associação Espiral de Vontades. This local association works tirelessly to support people and families in disadvantaged and vulnerable situations. Local events are held to encourage the integration of these vulnerable groups into society and promote their overall well-being. Founded in 2011 by a group of friends who worked together to organise a bone marrow campaign, the association puts the community at the forefront of everything it does.
In 2018, the association attempted to achieve the record for the world’s largest blanket, using over 112,225 crocheted pieces to unite the community. Sadly their hopes were dashed due to the rise and restrictions of the COVID-19 pandemic and the group's plans were put on hold. In a new bid to create the world's largest boot, the association gathered more than 500 people from across the country to achieve Monchique's very own world record. The association even went as far as to teach crochet in schools in Monchique to encourage youngsters to join in the fun, take pride in this charitable effort, and be part of the hill-top village's world record attempt.
The workforce tasked with putting together the donated crocheted pieces included fifty locals. The mostly older association members began to assemble the crocheted boot pieces on 8 July after months of preparations. With just five days to complete the mammoth task, Monchique residents could see the largest boot known to man slowly taking shape.
Event organiser Luisa Martins expressed her gratitude to the dedicated team who gathered at 8 am and worked throughout the morning to piece the boot together at Monchique's Juventude Desportiva Monchiquense sports park. Fighting the summer heat, the group returned later in the afternoon and worked late into the night to get the boot ready in time for the official adjudication on 13 July by Guinness World Records. “It's been tiring and a lot of hard work, but it's been worth it,” Luisa told me as she walked me around the enormous boot.
In this one-of-a-kind community activity, Luisa went on to explain that the art of crochet isn't just a way to bring the community together. Crochet also has many health benefits, including stress relief, joint exercise and mind-strengthening capabilities.
Standing on a plateau above the football pitch, I couldn't believe my eyes at the sheer scale of this project. But one question remained: “Why a boot?” Luisa explained that after the association's plans for the world's largest blanket were put on hold, they thought, ‘Why not use the material to create a boot instead?’
“It's a fully functional boot, similar to a knitted sock,” Luisa said while showing me the double layers of the boot. If it were possible to hold it up, it would be fully usable, although it would take a giant to wear it and, of course, he would probably need a pair!
Made by crocheting 1.2 by 2-metre rectangular square blankets together, each square used 24 balls of wool and took 72 hours to complete.
The fully finished boot weighs in at 3,120kg –that's over three tonnes – and took over 192,400 hours to complete using a staggering 62,400 balls of wool!
In the hopes of exceeding the required size, of over 7,000 square metres, I asked Luisa how confident she is about beating the world record. She said, “I'm optimistic. We've put in a lot of effort, but let's see. I have faith.”
The completed crochet boot finally went on public display the following weekend (13 and 14 July) at the Juventude Desportiva Monchiquense sports park, where locals and visitors gathered to see the world record attempt with their own eyes. At the grand unveiling, a surveyor, a lawyer, and an architect gathered to check that the measurements were accurate and sufficient to gain the record. Meanwhile, guests were serenaded by the Senior Academy Choral Group and Marcelo Rio.
We will have to wait and see whether the association is indeed a world record holder. With Guinness World Records, the adjudication process can take up to twelve weeks to complete, but don't worry – we will keep you up-to-date with the final result in the coming months.
While we await the official results, I'm sure you will join me in crossing our fingers and toes in hopes that this local charity has finally won the record they set out to achieve over six years ago! Who knows, Monchique could well be named in one of the most famous books in the world and give the Associação Espiral de Vontades the recognition they truly deserve.
For more information about the Associação Espiral de Vontades, visit: www.espiraldevontades.com
WORDS Henrica Vanderaa
I once considered writing a blog entitled ‘Not possible – only in Portugal’ with the idea of capturing the unique experiences of this country, but never did. I now share an experience I believe would be a true ‘only in Portugal’ experience.
I decided I would attempt to complete my Portuguese 2023 IRS declaração rather than go the accountant route. I accessed the Portal das Finanças and followed the instructions using my 2022 IRS as a guide. The option to have the automatic form pre-filled was very helpful, as was the online help menu. But as to be expected, there were a few errors I was unable to resolve.
Time to call the helpline listed on the Portal das Finanças. I fully expected to spend a good amount of time navigating the automated phone system and prepared myself emotionally to do so. Yes, I had to go through the automatic options, but after pressing #3 for ‘help with automatic IRS’, to my surprise, within a few seconds, a pleasant voice answered and I had Paula on the line.
Let me preface this by saying that I am aware I am one of over 10 million people to file a 2023 IRS declaração in Portugal this year, and I did not expect to get personalised service.
Paula was extremely helpful and very quickly resolved the first error, which apparently is a known glitch and, thus a common question. The second error was a human error (mine) and easily corrected.
I told Paula I had lived in the US for many years where filing taxes was a complicated
and burdensome process, and how impressed I was with the online Portal das Finanças IRS tax return process and helpline. Paula was extremely happy to hear that I had something positive to say about Portugal and the services – she lamented how she usually hears about how things in Portugal do not work as well as in other countries. And so the conversation went on. She told me she lives in Faro and I told her I lived in Porches. From there, we talked about how we liked living in the Algarve and why, and the conversation moved on to restaurants, as it often does here in Portugal. She gave a few recommendations in the Faro area and I for the Porches area, where I live.
In total, the phone call lasted 26 min; 16 min was spent on my 2023 IRS and ten about life in Portugal, the Algarve, and good restaurants.
Not every phone call to a helpline should take 26 minutes, but I also know that going via a Chatbot or online/automated help is often inefficient, impersonal, and very frustrating.
Was I lucky? For sure. Did it help that I am fluent in Portuguese? Undoubtedly. But where else could this delightful “only in Portugal” possible experience take place? Call the Portal das Finanças helpline for assistance with your IRS and get a list of recommendations for restaurants!
Henrica Vanderaa +351 926 828 497
WORDS Luka Alexander
The 4th of August marks the one hundred and tenth anniversary since Britain declared war on Germany, starting World War I. Following the assassination of Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand on 28 June 1914, a chain of events soon led to the start of the Great War in early August 1914, the war that was meant to end all wars.
To mark this period in history, I wanted to share a story of one British serviceman who stopped off in Lisbon en route to fight the Ottoman Turks and liberate the Gallipoli peninsula, and sadly gave his life for our future freedom.
Wilfred Gregory, born on 17 August 1883, in Reading, England, was a private in the 6th Service Battalion Lincolnshire Regiment. He was one of the 12 children of James and Martha Gregory. He joined the Royal Navy in 1905, and later married Alice Maud in 1913 and had one child named Ella.
After serving in the Royal Navy for nine years, Wilfred took up work as a builder, but his stint in civilian life was cut short when Britain declared war on Germany in August 1914. Soon after, Wilfred joined Lord Kitchener's newly raised 6th Service Battalion Lincolnshire Regiment and underwent training in Grantham, Lincolnshire, before partaking in final exercises at Frensham in Surrey. On 20 June 1915, Wilfred, along with his comrades of the 6th Service Battalion, sailed from Liverpool to Gallipoli on board HMS Talbot. En route, the battalion stopped off at Lisbon, where the troops took a well-deserved break, marvelling at the sights of the Portuguese capital
At the going down of the sun and in the morning. We will remember them.
and, most importantly, taking advantage of time to send letters back home to their nearest and dearest.
In one letter sent to his mother, Wilfred wrote:
“Dear Mother,
This is another view of Lisbon. There are lots of gardens like this.
You see they are in the centre of the road. The road opens out and runs each side of them. It gives the town a lovely and refreshing appearance.
W. G. [Wilfred Gregory]”
The letter, postmarked June 1915 – Lisboa, Portugal, was accompanied by a small selection of postcards featuring a view of Lisbon's Praça do Duque da Terceira and the Monument to the Restorers on Avenida da Liberdade. With flourishing avenues of trees and tropical plants seen in the distance, it's no wonder this historic and somewhat green city impressed the young soldier. It was a far cry from the hustle and bustle of Britain's ports which were preparing for one of the bloodiest wars in history.
Leaving Portugal, the battalion later stopped at Mudos in Greece before landing at Suvla Bay just off the coast of Gallipoli on 6 August 1915. Upon arrival, the battalion was immediately thrown into action as part of the August Offensive to break through Ottoman lines in hopes of taking over the Gallipoli peninsula.
Sadly, Private Wilfred Gregory (Private 11541) was killed in action on Turkey's Dardanelles Strait, just twenty-four hours after landing in Gallipoli. He was killed on 7 August 1915, aged 31 years old, having spent much of his adult life serving in the British forces. According to a death report written in the Lincolnshire Chronicle, dated 11 September 1915, Wilfred had witnessed first-hand the tragedy of war, stating “from the time [of] landing up until his death he had seen some fierce fighting”.
The letter to his mother, written from Portugal, would be one of his last. He was survived by his parents, his wife, his only child and four remaining siblings. His younger brother Private. Ronald Gregory (Private 515508), born in 1894, also served in the Great War in the 14th (1st London Scottish) Battalion. He died in Louverval, France, two years after Wilfred, on 24 November 1917, aged 23.
The death of the two brothers sent shock waves throughout the family, but their names were remembered and given to my grandfather, who shared the names of his uncles, Wilfred and Ronald, a small token of remembrance of two men who sacrificed their lives for king and country.
It may seem like fate that one hundred and nine years later, Wilfred's great-great nephew would be writing this story about him and living in the same country in which he wrote one of his final letters to his family. Whilst this soldier, like many, did not have a grave, his body was identified and his identification tag was returned to the family and now hangs on my living-room wall here in the Algarve, along with his bronze death plaque and his photograph. Wilfred, along with thousands of others is remembered on the Helles Memorial in Turkey on Pannal 44–46.
During his time in Lisbon, it would seem unimaginable that the quaint city of Lisbon would be dragged into the war just a year after HMS Talbot dropped its anchor in the Tagus River. Following Britain's request to confiscate German warships docked in Portuguese ports and Portugal's compliance with the request in 1916, Germany declared war on Portugal. The Great War resulted in about 12,000 deaths of Portuguese troops, including Africans who served in its armed forces on the colonial front. Britain lost over 880,000 British troops and the overall global loss of life was estimated at over 20 million throughout the four-year-long war.
In the words of the poem ‘For the Fallen’, written by Robert Laurence Binyon (1869–1943) and published in The Times in September 1914: “At the going down of the sun and in the morning. We will remember them.”
The Kingdom of Portugal had been allied with England since 1373, and thus the Republic of Portugal was an ally of the United Kingdom during World War I.
WORDS Robert Spalding
Sitting on the balcony overlooking the square, warmed by the sun yet cooled by sea breezes, with a morning coffee or a good Portuguese wine to hand, one can see all the activity in the praça
The dogs are let out. Excited to be released from their internment in small apartments, they run and yip for their freedom, chasing a ball, chasing each other, romping and wrestling. Black ones, white ones and in-between colours, shortlegged and long, furry or flat coats, there is no discrimination amongst canine friends.
An emergency vehicle flies down the avenida, its siren wailing, and the dogs all howl in harmony. They do “their business” politely and the owners pick it up dutifully. Children come out in full football uniforms and kick a ball, the would-be Ronaldos scoring the winning goal of the World Cup for their country. The younger ones are carried or wheeled in pushchairs by their fathers, the former wishing they were old enough to play. The fathers remember when they played, and stop to kick an errant ball. Old men sit on the benches and talk about the good old days, grumbling about the hustle and bustle of all the tourists.
Visitors arrive from the rail and bus stations with suitcases rattling on the calçadas, their skin pale from living in cooler climes, gazing anxiously at Google Maps to find their accommodation. Others head in the opposite direction, their skin tanned and smiles bright from a pleasant holiday in Lagos, yet inwardly saddened by the return to their home country, their jobs and the daily humdrum of life.
The street cleaner wheels her barrow, sweeping and raking the calçadas. The trees, which offer a pleasant backdrop for everyone else, and are
home to multiple chirping birds, present a chore for the worker. Depending on the time of year, they shed leaves, blossom or seed pods , which each day need to be swept in the never-ending task of keeping Lagos clean and tidy.
The café owners drag out their tables and chairs, scraping the ground noisily, getting ready to serve their hungry, thirsty customers, and placing their menus for all to peruse. Visitors in their summer clothes, exposing lots of skin, stop to read, like what they see and are tempted by the fragrant smell of cooking food. They sit ready to eat, drink a caneca or glass of wine, and chat amicably. Delivery riders roll up on their scooters and go inside to fill their backpacks with orders.
Then there are the characters. The knife sharpener, his grindstone mounted on his bicycle, playing the pan-flute to call people to bring out their blades. The man striding along, beer and cigarette in hand, asking anyone he sees, “Give me money to buy food.” Some do, some don’t, but he strides on not bothering them further. The woman who wanders in circles, with multiple bags on her arms, and in her own world, not bothering anyone. A man wheeling his bicycle towing a makeshift shopping cart with all his possessions on board, his faithful old dog trotting behind. Another pedalling along, weaving in and out of pedestrians playing music from his mounted boom box. Older couples out for their daily constitutional. They are all there and should one or the other not appear on a given day, people would worry for their wellbeing.
Life in the praça is better than any reality television programme: a fellow can relax, and wish his neighbours a “bom dia” before going inside to refill his glass.
Even as a boy growing up in a Suffolk village in England, Robert Spalding liked to tell stories. He perfected the craft over time as a member of Toastmasters, achieving the level of gold. Robert was educated at King Edward VI Grammar School in Bury St. Edmunds. He began his career as a salesman in Suffolk before spending six years in the Middle East as a management consultant. He travelled to the US, where he earned an MBA from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, before working as president of Venosan North America, a Swiss-owned medical products company, and as an adjunct professor of Strategy and Entrepreneurship in the School of Business at High Point University in North Carolina. Robert now enjoys life in Portugal with his wife, Diane, making new stories together.
His new book Muck N Roses is a chance to step back in time to the idyllic Suffolk village of Hamford in the mid-20th century, where community bonds ran deep, and life unfolded with charming simplicity. The author transports you to a world where everyone knew each other’s quirks, and the heart of social life revolved around village pubs, the church, and Saturday night dances. In an era when fresh produce was a seasonal delight, and neighbours rallied to care for the sick, this collection of nostalgic stories captures the essence of a bygone era. Join Robert in savouring a time when rural Suffolk’s rich fields and close-knit community made life truly special.
Meet the man who may become their social lifeline in the Algarve
WORDS Becca Williams
They came from as far away as Tavira, driving an hour to Lagos to be with other Americans. This time it was a Fourth of July celebration where about 130 people, mostly Americans including myself, gathered to celebrate Independence Day.
You can tell that Paul Hasenfus loves creating these gatherings for his fellow Americans. And by the ever increasing turn-outs, it appears Americans are very grateful for his efforts.
Paul immigrated from San Diego, California in 2017 and a year later he started bringing Americans together for Thanksgiving celebrations. Over the past six years, he’s organised five of these events (with a pause in 2020 due to COVID).
The events have steadily grown from 65 people back in 2018 to 200 people last year in November 2023. This was his first Fourth of July gathering and, by any measure, it was a hit. “I figured 50 or 60 people would be coming,” Paul said. “When I found out it was 130, I was shocked!”
More Americans but still a tiny fraction
We know from official statistics that track hotel stays and airline flights, increasing numbers of Americans are visiting Portugal. (The latest measure is based on the increase in hotel stays, which according to Portugal’s National Statistics Institute, makes Americans the third most important market for hotels.)
Paul’s attendance numbers may be unofficial, but they undeniably highlight the expanding American community in Southern Portugal. During my attendance at the Fourth of July event, held at Boa Vista, a resort community near Lagos, I got to talk to several Americans –discovering that most have lived here for no more than three or four years and others are newer than that.
Unlike the British, who have long been coming to Portugal and comprise the second largest number of immigrants (nearly 37,000 according to 2022 stats, far behind Brazil with 233,000), American immigration is still minuscule at around 10,000.
So, despite all the fanfare about Americans visiting Portugal, there are still very few of us who have actually immigrated here. We make up
less than 1.5% of the country’s total immigrant population.
Finding our American peeps
So maybe that’s why Paul’s gatherings for Americans are such a hit. They’re a way to find each other! Even in the midst of the Fourth of July celebration, when America is hurtling toward a 2024 presidential election fraught with uncertainty there was no apparent antagonism at the gathering. Before coming, I wondered if people would be divided into “red” and “blue” groups. Would conversations turn heated? Would the atmosphere be tense?
But most everyone seemed on their best behavior and, when asked, attendees consistently shared with me some version of what Tina Dameron, an American from California living in Portugal for three years, had to say. “It just seems like we are here with all of our new friends in our new country having a wonderful barbecue, regardless of what date it is.”
Paul echoed that sentiment when I suggested that Thanksgiving was one thing but a Fourth of July event could be volatile. “I wasn’t thinking about having any kind of political conflict between anybody,” he said. “I was just thinking about putting together a barbecue for a group of people –Americans – to celebrate the birth of our country.”
It’s obvious that when Paul started these gatherings, he didn’t imagine they would grow to what they are today. As the event dispersed,
it was clear that his work was about more than just organising. It was about creating a sense of belonging, a home away from home, connecting Americans to their roots and to each other.
Becca Williams, an American immigrant, is settled into small town living in Lagos. Contact her at AlgarveBecca@gmail.com
Future events will be promoted on Facebook, ‘Americans Living in the Algarve’, and ‘Americans&FriendsPt’. To book the Thanksgiving event on Sunday, 24 November, send an email to: alitathanksgivingevent@gmail.com
Julian Putley meets the locals that live on and try to protect Culatra and the Parque Nacional da Ria Formosa.
Ria Formosa is the name given to a group of barrier islands and a lagoon off the southernmost coast of the Algarve between the beaches of Garrão and Manta Rota. The area allows connection to the sea through six inlets. It was recognised as one of the country’s seven natural wonders in 2010. Its ecological importance as unparalleled wetlands, bird habitat and fish spawning grounds cannot be questioned.
On a bright and sunny morning with a fresh breeze my wife, Monique and I, took the ferry from Olhão to Culatra to investigate a unique island life and fishing community.
We managed to install ourselves on the top deck for the best views. Surprisingly, we saw dolphins close to shore and along the route were rows of oyster beds; some clam diggers were hard at work in the hot sun. Small fishing boats sped by as well as tourist excursion vessels.
After about a half hour, we disembarked at the dock in Culatra. Hordes of tourists headed to the renowned beaches on the south side of the island but our intentions were different. We walked to the edge of the village where a group of retired fishermen were sitting in a communal shaded area. We sat down and introduced ourselves. I felt lucky to have Monique with me as interpreter – her Brazilian Portuguese is better than my halting European Portuguese.
The most senior of the four, Joachim, nicknamed Sargento, was born on Culatra 76 years ago. Life was hard back then he explained. Water had to come from the mainland as well as all necessary supplies. Fish and shellfish were plentiful but fruit and vegetables were not available. Oil lamps were used for lighting. There was only a handful of people living on the island then but now there are over a thousand. All the residents are fishermen or family members with ties to the industry. He suggested we talk to Silvia Padinha, President of the Association of Residents, who fortunately was nearby doing a film project for the University of the Algarve. We were able to arrange a meeting.
Senhora Padinha explained the many issues confronting the residents. In 1987, the important Nature Park (Parque Nacional da Ria Formosa) was established. The local government in Faro wanted to demolish all the homes on the island in an effort to keep the area pristine but there was already a community here.
“We managed to rebuff their intentions but still the residents had no claim to their properties. It wasn’t until 2018 that finally we succeeded in our demands for legal 30year deeds – but only to local fishermen and their families; outsiders and speculators were denied.”
In 2013, a group of French entrepreneurs made applications for concessions for rights to start oyster farming in Culatra’s ideal environment (it takes 18 months to grow a full oyster here instead of 36 months elsewhere). Padinha fought hard to reject these applications and eventually won the battle on behalf of the Culatra fishermen. Her rebuttal included the promise that the harvested oysters would be exported mainly to France in exchange for training and technical expertise to be provided by the French to Culatra’s young fishermen – 20 young entrepreneurs from Culatra started oyster farming, employing many more locals. It was a huge victory for the association’s president and a huge boon to Culatra.
Senhora Padinha continued to explain, “The community is relatively new, so we are still trying to get up-to-date with basic infrastructure. There are wells on the island but the water is brackish. Finally, in 2010, we achieved a piped water supply from the mainland. It wasn’t until 1992 that we got electricity. Now we are aiming at complete electrical independence using solar panels with a completion target
of 2030. The EU helped us with funds to build a concrete pedestrian walkway through the village and a boardwalk. Progress is happening. There are no vehicles on the island except tractors that can drive over the sand. Lately we have seen a huge influx of tourists, mostly day trippers, but we are determined to keep our fishing industry as our primary activity and to ensure its sustainability.”
We thanked Senhora Pandinha and, at her suggestion, we walked through the rows and rows of fishermen’s shacks. One shellfish digger was bagging his day’s haul of the prized Ameijoa Boa clams. Another was mending a net. The whole area smelled of fish, and seabirds wheeled overhead.
Before heading to explore the island’s south side we decided to have a light lunch. There are several options but we were recommended to try the Mariesa, a quaint spot off the beaten track. As you might expect, there was a large selection of seafood dishes and all would go well with the essential chilled vinho verde. I had the sole while Monique chose the swordfish. We gave it five stars.
The long sandy beach is only a 15-minute walk from Culatra village. There’s a new beach bar offering shade umbrellas and loungers. From here a pleasant walk of about 4kms takes you to the westernmost village of Farol, named for its 50-metre tall lighthouse. Its claim to fame is that it was the first lighthouse to be built in Portugal: the date, 1851.
The return ferry cruised down the northwest coast passing the third village of Hangares and stopped at Farol to pick up more passengers before returning to Olhão.
This excursion was so interesting we vowed to be back. On our next trip we would plan a longer visit – an earlier ferry and later one to return.
The Barn of History
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY Ricardo Soares
Megalithic culture is the tradition of erecting large stones, most probably for ceremonial purposes. The first menhirs in Vila do Bispo were erected around 6,500 years ago as anthropomorphic sculptures, pioneering manifestations of man in the landscape.
These first structures are an early example of humanity appropriating nature, establishing territories, cultivating them, transforming them and delineating them with identity markers of cultural property. Man becomes the measure of all things.
Vila do Bispo is home to the largest concentration of menhirs on the Iberian Peninsula, an exceptional megalithic territory that still has around 300 menhir remains. Our menhirs may turn out to be the first and oldest megalithic monuments in Europe and are at the origin of a phenomenon that, from south to north, culminates in more complex architectures
The Copper (or Chalcolithic) and Bronze Ages, between the third and second millennia BC, saw profound changes in prehistoric societies. Settlement expanded into sparsely occupied regions and large settlements were built with walls and moats. Large-scale trade emerged, with new goods and exotic products. Metallurgy emerged with the first gold and copper, followed by bronze and iron alloys.
Around 4,000 years ago, in Vila do Bispo, the shell middens (a dump for human waste) were still active, the menhir cult still persisted and
agriculture was significant, as evidenced by the remains of tools from this period. But new practices have been uncovered by local archaeologists. At the beginning of the Chalcolithic period, collective funerary depositions were practised in the tomb of Pedra Escorregadia in Vila do Bispo, with diverse offerings. A funerary stele (a stone or wooden slab erected as a monument) found at Figueira in Budens from the end of the Bronze Age is notable. It depicts a warrior armed with a shield and spear, a contemporary of Homer’s heroes and the Trojan wars. The growing social hierarchisation
such as the Almendres megalithic enclosure (Évora), the Carnac alignments (French Brittany) or Stonehenge (England). A phenomenon closely associated with astronomy, menhirs appear isolated, aligned or organised in megalithic enclosures as markers of celestial events that guide the cycles of nature, namely the terrestrial, solar and lunar cycles.
In these times, the sun and the moon determined the routines of life, day and night, the seasons and the tides. Farmers, shepherds, fishermen and shellfish gatherers depended on celestial calendars in their daily lives. All over the world, megalithic monuments have been built orientated to the stars, with the first full moon rising after the spring equinox standing out. Menhirs are magical, religious instruments for measuring astral time, symbolically linking terrestrial landscapes with celestial landscapes.
of these societies is evident in the Pedra Escorregadia tomb, a funerary monument dedicated to a restricted human group, perhaps a “social elite” from the early Metal Age. In the Figueira stele, we see the introduction of Mediterraneaninfluenced ideologies and the rise of unique individuals among the local elite, who took on the role of military and religious leaders, almost demigods, just before the first urban societies. Discovered by José Formosinho in the late 1940s, this is an iconic piece of Vila do Bispo’s past, currently housed in the Lagos Municipal Museum.
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The Romans established a settlement in the Boca do Rio estuary, in the first century AD dedicated to fishing, fish processing, salt extraction and the export of fish sauces to Lusitania and other provinces of the Roman Empire. With significant development in the third century AD, it remained active until the middle of the fifth century AD. A Roman villa with thermal baths was built on the beach for the owners, and was occupied for almost five centuries.
An extensive factory area inland was on the right bank of the thennavigable estuary. With a riverside harbour, it had warehouses and various production units, with tanks (cetariae) used to produce fish and shellfish pastes, and sauces preserved in brine. Generally known as garum, these foods and condiments were highly valued, exported, and appreciated throughout the Roman world. In 1755, the tsunami generated by the great earthquake of 1 November uncovered the impressive ruins of the Lusitanian-Roman villa of Boca do Rio. In 1878, Estácio da Veiga, a pioneer of Algarve archaeology, carried out extensive excavations at the site, revealing a group of buildings with mosaics, which he interpreted as a bathhouse. Work followed in 1896 with Santos Rocha and in 1933 with José Formosinho, which resulted in the collection of various materials destined to enrich the museums they were founded at the time, in Figueira da Foz and Lagos, respectively.
From Roman times, we find ancient buildings and objects associated with those communities’ daily activities, life and death. Our ancestors were concentrated in seaside settlements on the beaches of Boca do Rio and Martinhal, and in scattered farms located in sheltered and fertile inland valleys. The development of these ancient settlements was due to the abundance, variety and quality of the resources provided by the land and sea. From the coast, fish and shellfish, from the countryside, cereals, olive oil, wine, pastoralism and hunting – products that gave
rise to the so-called “Mediterranean diet”. In addition to family and community subsistence, the more enterprising landowners prospered on a network of imperial scale, commercialising their surpluses and selling endogenous products along Mediterranean routes. The products travelled by land to the interior of Lusitania. By sea, they sailed north to the Sado, Tagus and Mondego estuaries or east to Mediterranean ports.
The preserved fish product garum was packaged and transported in
amphorae, many of which were made at the important pottery complex on Martinhal beach in Sagres, one of the largest in southern Portugal, where ten kilns were identified. The pottery would have produced amphorae and other ceramics used in everyday life, such as plates, jars, lamps and beehives. Apiculture has been documented in Sagres for around 2,000 years, specifically through the archaeological discovery of rare clay hives at the Lusitanian-Roman site of Martinhal.
At Lomba das Pias, on the western slope of the Boca do Rio beach, there is a necropolis that served the Lusitanian-Roman villa and the people who lived and died there for 500 years. In total, ten burial graves and an older cremation structure were discovered. The investigation of the different types of burials and their respective remains made it possible to establish chronologies between the second half of the third century and the end of the fifth century. In the oldest funerary structure, a votive deposit was recovered, consisting of a coin, a lamp, a small vase and a terra sigillata bowl imported from Tunisia. The set of graves studied so far bears witness to an important transition in Roman funerary practices between cremation rituals and different burial options. These new burial rituals led to religious reforms and Emperor Constantine’s conversion to Christianity at the beginning of the fourth century.
Catholic tradition has it that Vincent, deacon of Zaragoza, was martyred in Valencia in 304, during the last official campaign of persecution against Christians, ordered by the Roman Emperor Diocletian and led by Governor Publius Dacian.
According to legend, Vincent was unyielding in his defence of his faith and was, therefore, cruelly tortured and martyred by fire. After his death, his body was abandoned in a field, where crows protected it from attack by animals and beasts. To get rid of the body once and for all, the Roman soldiers tied it to a millstone and threw it into the sea, but the corpse floated to shore. The miracle was felt by the Christians of Valencia, who recovered the body and buried it in the city’s cathedral. Unshakeable in the face of life’s scourges and indestructible after death, Saint Vincent was given the attributes of “victorious” and “invincible”.
Four hundred years later, in 711, as part of the Islamic invasion of the Iberian Peninsula by the Umayyad Caliphate, the relics of Saint Vincent were moved to a safer location. They travelled to the far southwest of Europe and were deposited in the ancient Promontorium Sacrum, a mystical finisterre known since then as Cape St Vincent. According to Arab and Christian sources, a temple dedicated to the cult of St. Vincent may have existed on the cape between the eigth and twelfth centuries. This small church was known as Kanisat al-Gurab among the Arabs and Ermida dos Corvos among the Christians.
In 1173, by the will of King Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, the relics of Saint Vincent were transferred once again, this time to Lisbon. Two ravens guarded the boat that made the journey. A small bone of the saint was left in Sagres. It is a phalanx of a finger encased in a silver reliquary, which is kept in the Mother Church of Vila do Bispo and is an object of great devotion among the local community.
Ricardo Soares is the archaeologist at Vila do Bispo Museum.
According to Silva Lopes (1841), a grave with the following epitaph was discovered at Cape St Vincent in May 1639:
“This is Posthumius Rufus, who, as a soldier in the battle of Gaius Pompilius, died in the war with the Lusitanians. Gaius Cornelius, his dearest friend and relative placed this sarcophagus in his memory: May the earth be light on you.”
Gaius Pompilius Lena was a Roman military leader who took part in the Lusitanian War, which took place between 155 and 139 BC, pitting the Roman Republic against some tribes from the Province of Hispania Ulterior, known as the Lusitanians. It is not possible for us to know anything other than this Roman soldier perished in the vicinity of the Sacred Promontory, where he was buried by a close friend, Gaius Cornelius.
Domus is the Latin name for “house”, from which the current words “domicile” and “domestic” derive. As synonyms for the house, terms such as “fire” and “hearth” are still used because fire and hearth have always been central elements of habitability and comfort in any home!
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Carmen Miranda is the only Brazilian and/or Portuguese star to be immortalised in the Hollywood Walk of Fame.
Carmen Miranda was only 1.52 metres tall. In addition to being called ‘The Brazilian Bombshell’, she was also known as ‘A Pequena Notável’ (The Little Remarkable).
She was an international superstar famed for her beauty, singing, dancing and flamboyant costumes. What’s less known is that the so-called ‘Brazilian Bombshell’ was Portuguese by birth.
WORDS Vaughan Willmore
It’s impossible to overstate how popular Carmen Miranda was. Even today, nearly 70 years after her passing, she remains one of the most significant figures in popular culture. A brilliant, intelligent, multilingual businesswoman, at one point Carmen Miranda was the best-paid star in Hollywood.
“She was born in Portugal, her parents were from Portugal, just like her grandparents. She doesn’t have any Brazilian DNA,” wrote one fan upon hearing the sad news of Carmen Miranda’s passing.
Carmen Miranda was born in 1909 in Marco de Canaveses, in the district of Porto. She was baptised Maria do Carmo Miranda da Cunha and was the second daughter of the barber José
Maria Pinto da Cunha and his wife, Maria Emília Miranda. Before her birth, Carmen’s parents had already planned their emigration to Brazil. Upon falling pregnant, Carmen’s mother decided to stay here in Portugal while her father travelled ahead, to begin their new life in South America.
Carmen came to prominence in Brazil in the early 1920s. Initially, she was a singer at a local radio station in Rio de Janeiro before securing a recording contract. By the end of the decade, Carmen was a household name in Brazil and within a few years, like many popular singers of that era, she had made the transition into the movies. In late 1939, she became the first Brazilian (and Portuguese-speaking) star to make a breakthrough in the USA. Initially, she appeared on Broadway before then heading to Hollywood.
Carmen Miranda made many successful films and appeared with some of the biggest names of the time, including Elizabeth Taylor, Groucho Marx and Dean Martin. In the 1940s, she was the highest-paid female performer in Hollywood. Such was her influence that Carmen had it stipulated in her contracts with the movie studios that when she was singing and dancing in a film, the camera should always stay on her – there should be no cutting away from her to other actors. This tactic was one way of ensuring she remained the centre of attention, but it also gave a hint to what soon would become an issue – her stereotyping as the vivacious samba-singing siren from South America.
The frustrations of her being stereotyped, along with a deeply unhappy marriage and the pressures from the movie industry, all combined to take Carmen down a dark path of alcoholism and drugs, both of which impacted badly on her overall health. Tragically, at just 46 years of age, Carmen suffered a massive heart attack. Her body was flown from Hollywood back to her adopted country of Brazil, where her death was declared a period of national mourning.
To this day, Carmen’s legacy lives on amongst her many fans. The debate continues as to whether she should be remembered as the Brazilian Bombshell or a daughter of Portugal. In truth, both interpretations are valid, with each country contributing to the story of ‘The Little Remarkable’ who travelled from a small village in the north of Portugal, via Brazil, to the heights of Hollywood.
O F F R E E A I R
WORDS James Plaskitt
At 9.45 a.m. on 1 November 1755, a massive earthquake flattened Lisbon, destroying 90% of its buildings and costing tens of thousands of lives. King Jose I, who had lost his palace, fled the city, hid in a tent, and handed over responsibility for dealing with the aftermath to a young minister in his government. The age of Pombal had begun.
Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, Marquis of Pombal, was born in 1699 into a minor noble family. Through strategic marriage, he worked his way into the royal court and was Portugal’s ambassador to London 1739–43 and then to Austria 1745–49. There, he married his second wife, who was a close friend of the Portuguese queen. Pombal was soon called back to Lisbon to be appointed as foreign minister.
During his time abroad, Pombal became aware of how backward Portugal had become, and he concluded that it needed extensive reform and modernisation along Enlightenment lines. To achieve this goal, power would have to shift away from a tightly closed aristocracy and a potent church towards a reformed centralised, secular state. That was Pombal’s radical vision but he lacked the power to implement it. Until the earth shook.
Pombal dealt with the aftermath with extraordinary speed and determination.
Corpses were thrown into the river to prevent disease, and looters were executed on the spot. He brought in a collection of Europe’s top architects and engineers to help him devise a plan for a completely new city. Lisbon would be a centre of commerce instead of a monument to royal folly. By 1758, extensive reconstruction was underway.
Astonished by Pombal’s achievements, King José made him prime minister and handed over almost all government power to him, leaving himself free to emerge from his tent only for hunting, game and his mistresses!
Pombal wasted no time in realising his ambition for Portugal and himself. Immediately he began isolating the aristocrats from any meaningful political power, taking over control himself. When, in 1758, there was an assassination attempt on King José, Pombal had the powerful aristocratic Tavora family arrested. He appointed hand-picked judges who duly found them all guilty of treason. Pombal had them brutally killed in full public view. Other aristocratic families swiftly moved into exile.
Next in his sights were the Jesuits. Pombal crossed swords with them immediately, arresting a leading cleric who had argued that the earthquake was God’s wrath. Pombal handed him over to the Inquisition,
who duly dispatched him. Mass deportation of the Jesuits began in 1759. With aristocratic power broken and the church subdued, Pombal set about his sweeping reforms.
To revitalise the economy, he set up five large monopoly companies under state control. Notable amongst them was the Upper Douro Wine Company, the first with a law confining the port label to a demarcated zone – which included an outlying vineyard owned by Pombal himself! He set up a board of trade, which used state aid to establish over 200 new manufacturing companies. To organise state finances, he set up a new treasury.
To reform education – decimated by the expulsion of the Jesuits – he set up a department of education, and ordered a drive to recruit new teachers for new primary and secondary schools, all following a new, secular curriculum. He also modernised Portugal’s only university at Coimbra.
As the modernised state was being created in accordance with Pombal’s political views, the new Lisbon was emerging in accordance with his architectural preferences. The new city was built around the classical grid pattern, and the emphasis on modernity and trade was underlined by renaming the central square by the port Praça de Comércio. However, understanding the importance of flattering one’s patron, Pombal had an equestrian statue of José I placed at its centre – a grandiose representation of a king who, in reality, was still cowering under canvas and who certainly never donned armour.
It took Pombal only a few years after the earthquake to become an autocrat. He reshaped Portugal in accordance with modern ideas he had acquired as a young ambassador, and he had unassailable power for over two decades.
There was one thing, however, he could not organise – the succession of King José. After his death in 1777, he was succeeded by his daughter, Queen Maria I. Maria loathed Pombal and he was immediately dismissed and told never to set foot in court again. The aged Pombal retreated to his estate and began drafting self-justifying memoirs. With the political coast now clear, the exiled aristocrats drifted back, and the court started to resemble the one Pombal had decisively eradicated over the previous decades.
Although Pombal’s Lisbon still stands, little of his political work endured. A weakened state with an unreformed army and navy proved unable to hold on to Brazil – the keystone of the empire – and equally unable to resist Napoleon without costly English help.
A century and a half would pass before a university professor would become Portugal’s next autocrat.
James Plaskitt is a retired politician who was a member of the British parliament from 1997 until 2010. He now lives in the Algarve.
Next month: Dr António Salazar
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Although the Sanctuary of Senhora da Agonia may not be as famous as other Marian shrines (shrines marking an apparition or other miracle ascribed to the Blessed Virgin Mary) such as Fátima in Ourém or Lourdes in France, its prominence has spread throughout the past three hundred years. It is now one of the most famous annual pilgrimages in Portugal and one of the country's best-loved cultural events.
In 1674, during the rule of Alfonso VI, the statue of Senhora da Agonia was placed within the Chapel of Bom Jesus do Santo Sepulcro do Calvário. It was one of four chapels built on what was once known as Morro da Forca in the seaport city of Viana do Castelo, 386km north of Lisbon. As word spread about the relic of the Virgin Mary, faithful pilgrims travelled to Viana do Castelo in the same manner that many visit the shrine of Fátima today.
Historically, devotion to Our Lady of Agony or Agonia, also known as Our Lady of Sorrows (Latin: Mater Dolorosa), dates back to 1221 at the Schönau Monastery, in Germania, the modernday Schönau am Königssee municipality in Bavaria. Our Lady of Agony is often depicted with seven swords piercing her sorrowful and Immaculate Heart, a symbol that stems from the Seven Sorrows of the Virgin Mary.
By 1772, seafarers from Galicia and the Portuguese coast began to make pilgrimages to the shrine to give thanks and ask for safety while at sea, given the frequent shipwrecks that suffered the torturous waves off the coast north of Lisbon.
Permission was granted in 1783 to hold a Solemn Mass within the Chapel, which had been named the Chapela de Nossa Senhora da Agonia, by the Sacred Congregation of Rites. It was then decided that 20 August would become an annual holiday in Viana do Castelo to give thanks and praise to Senhora da Agonia, the Patroness of Viana do Castelo and Vianense Fisherman.
In 1861, the Solemn Mass transformed into the 'Pilgrimage da Agonia' and included a full festival of singing, dancing and entertainment, slowly evolving into one of the biggest religious festivals in Portugal. The addition of fireworks in 1862 was seen by more than fifty thousand people and in the following years more extravagant forms of entertainment were introduced into the celebration including costume parades, agricultural exhibitions and, controversially, bullfighting.
Nowadays the Festas de Agosto, as it has been called, has emerged from a solemn religious
pilgrimage into a fully-fledged state fair. It is now one of the biggest festivals in Minho province, taking place on the week around 20 August annually, but minus the bullfighting of days gone by. Interestingly, since 2009 Viana do Castelo has been an anti-bullfighting city, often raising awareness of animal cruelty.
With a full programme of local handicrafts, philharmonic bands, parades and competitions, there's plenty to keep one entertained in this historic festival which attracts thousands of visitors each year. The annual firework display has since grown from a single display into many, with fireworks set off at 11 pm in various points throughout the city during the week-long event. However, the festival's origins are not forgotten. On the eve of the Day of Senhora da Agonia, a carpet of flowers is arranged in beautifully crafted patterns throughout the streets in time for the solemn Eucharistic parade.
Held in the Adro da Senhora da Agonia on the morning of 20 August, the congregation of the parish church process to the quayside following behind the 600-kilo statue, which is placed on a float and carried on the shoulders of local fishermen, dressed in their finest plaid shirts. Surrounded by the fishermen's wives, dressed in their regional costumes, the parade processes through the streets of Viana do Castelo, as the float of Senhora da Agonia sways from side to side in time with the solemn music, played by local orchestras. This is a time for locals and fishermen alike to gather, and give thanks and praise to the patroness of the sea and show their devotion to the Mother of God.
The Virgin Mary is the Patroness of Uruguay, a former Portuguese colony known as ancient Cisplatina. It was under Portuguese rule from 1512 until the area was given to Spain in 1777. Uruguay became independent of Spain in 1811 but was annexed by Brazil until 1825 when it became a sovereign nation. Uruguayan Independence Day is on 25 August, and the Virgin Mary is known as the Liberator of Uruguay.
Arriving at the quayside, the parade is met by more than one hundred bedecked fishing vessels gathered together to receive the Holy blessing from the clergy. As the vessels and the river Lima are blessed, various ships adorned with bouquets of flowers carry the statues of Nossa Senhora d’Agonia, Nossa Senhora de Monserrate, Nossa Senhora dos Mares and Holy St. Peter down the Lima, parading in a flotilla and passing the thousands who gather on the river banks to applaud the saints. Returning to dry land, the procession continues to the Ribeira, trampling over the carpet of flowers, somewhat similar to the annual Easter procession in São Brás de Alportel. The parade ends at the courtyard of the Chapela de Nossa Senhora da Agonia, with a final bow to Our Lady by all who honour her followed by much fanfare.
Having started as a small pilgrimage of the devoted faithful, the Pilgrimage of Senhora da Agonia has now become one of Portugal's biggest celebrations, attracting thousands each year. Its success reached a high in 2013 when the festival received the Declaration of Public Interest for Tourism from the authorities for its welcoming nature to visitors from near and far.
Whilst the Pilgrimage of Senhora da Agonia is etched in the lifeblood of this seaport city, its history is almost as poignant as the city's unusual name. According to legend the name Viana do Castelo takes root from a centuries-old tale about a knight who fell in love with a beautiful princess named Ana who appeared on a castle's balcony. The knight proclaimed “I saw Ana do Castelo” and hence the name Viana do Castelo was born.
So, if you're heading up north for a spot of sightseeing, why not stop off at Viana do Castelo? This city is steeped in history and is the birthplace of one of Portugal's best-loved festivals, which is all thanks to the mother of Portugal and Queen of Heaven.
festasdagonia.com
From her beautifully renovated home at the top of Luz, with its clean white interiors and bird’s-eye view of the ocean, Dianne Jeffery has been creating extraordinary pieces of art. Remarkably, her paintings remained hidden until she invited Tomorrow magazine to her home, and her art, like the view, really took our breath away.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
I am sitting in Dianne´s tranquil living room. Its minimalist interiors feel like they have been created to display her work. “I was drawn to this house by the light,” she acknowledges. “The light is so much stronger here in the Algarve and you get more intense colours, which is why I am now using more vibrant colours in my work.” Her entire house feels like a blank canvas on which she displays her talents, which is a good thing as currently her four walls are the only place her works of art are visible; no one (apart from her nearest and dearest) has ever seen them.
My eyes are drawn to a framed image of John Lennon, which captures the essence of the music icon. As I look closer, I realise how clever it is. Despite being immediately obvious who it is, Dianne has drawn very few lines of his face while still capturing his unique features.
For Dianne, art and music have become somewhat interwoven, so her art doesn’t just embody her artistic talent but also her lifelong love of music. Dianne´s father was a musician, so she was exposed to various musical genres from a young age. “My sister was five years older than me, so I got into the Doors and Janice Joplin through her, and I can still remember the first time I heard the Beatles at age five. And my parents took me to lots of concerts, symphonies and operas. I think all this feeds your artistic sole.” Her preferred music genres are vast and varied, and she is intrigued by all manner of music, but I notice from her art that she is a fan of American blues music. She also has some fantastic works of icons, such as David Bowie and Elton John.
As well as musicians, she is fascinated with the human face, especially subjects with distinctive or asymmetrical features. She finds that everyone’s face tells a story. Some of her most striking portraits are of the actress Noomi Rapace, who plays Lisbeth Salander in The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo.
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She also enjoys drawing birds, specifically crows, and has created a series of bird pictures that perfectly represent their characteristics and soaring flight.
Dianne can easily lose herself in her art and spend hours simply painting. Her creations are the result of her studies, combined with her imagination. She gives me an example of her process in drawing Amy Winehouse. “She was so talented I think I would like to try to do a piece about her and I’ll study her photos and then listen to her music.” She finds the eyes to be the most complicated part, but she found this talent when she did life drawing. To her, eyes are the most crucial part of a painting. “The eyes are able to convey emotion, experience and a whole life story. The eye is the window to the soul.”
Dianne´s path to this unique art perspective was a complicated one. Born in Saskatchewan
and raised in Vancouver, her natural talent was scouted from a young age, and, in elementary school, she gained recognition from a teacher. She continued attending art classes in high school, however, she admits she never fulfilled her potential and trained as a nurse. In the late 1970s, a tragedy had a positive effect on Dianne: when one of her patients died, his wife offered Dianne his oil paints as a gift.
After starting painting again, she took her creations to a local art curator, who told her to go to art school. She enrolled in 1988 but only attended for a year. Studying was just too much for her at that time, with her husband travelling with work, two small children, and working. But during this period, she exercised her creative talent with a local church and her children’s high school.
Dianne also designed large, detailed sculptures
of angels with graphite pencils, which were transformed into stained glass windows. She also created numerous large-scale paintings and banners which were hung in her church. With two children, she designed and painted sets for high school productions. A series of photorealistic drawings of the male form with conte pencil followed. Dianne believes that a creative soul always needs an outlet. “If it doesn’t come out, I think you have issues with depression and this is why I think I was drawn into set design for my kids´ school.” After breaking her back, she left nursing and began working in secondary and elementary schools from 1989 to 2017.
It was a family bereavement which made Dianne reimmerse herself in the world of art and she attended Kwantlen University (Fine Arts) from 2016 to 2019. She retired from work in 2017. In 2019, Dianne’s husband Bill was transferred by his employer to Chicago for three years. While in Chicago, she sought to attend the art institute, but it was prohibitively expensive as a nonnational. So, she embarked on her own intensive art education and, as a member of the art institute, she was able to use the library. There she encountered Alex O´Keefe, who also worked at the art school, and this was destiny´s chance to finally set Dianne on her creative path.
One day, Dianne found the courage to show Alex her work. She was impressed and took Dianne on as a project, directing and guiding her to what she should study in art history. This friendship was a monumental moment in Dianne´s journey to becoming an artist, a journey which had been thwarted so many times. Then came the pandemic, and with Dianne´s husband working in PPE, he was working seven days a week, and Dianne just immersed herself in her art, which she found to be a cathartic process.
The official terminology for her style would be contemporary portraiture, but it goes further than that as Dianne incorporates mixed media into her works, specifically old newsprint. Why does she paint on the printed word? “Music can
move you and the lyrics are very powerful.” She uses the lyrics of John Lennon’s ‘Imagine’ as an example. “Think of how powerful those words have been and the effect they have had on the world. Also, in my studies, I found a sketchbook where artists had drawn on top of the printed word and I liked the concept. I read a lot and I find the spoken word very compelling, so I guess this is why this process resonates with me.”
Dianne has developed an innovative process to transfer the print onto watercolour paper: soft gel gloss is spread onto watercolour paper and the printed words are pressed face-down into the gel gloss, transferring it to the paper. Like an alchemist, Dianne has also worked out a way of using rust to add additional layering to her art. She sprays rusted pieces of iron with a mixture of vinegar and water, sprinkled with both fine salt (to help the transfer process) and coarse salt (to provide texture and interest).
When she paints, she feels she goes into her brain’s right hemisphere. This hemisphere is separate from analytical thought. Instead, she instinctively knows what will look better and what colour will work with that concept. For her, painting has become a way to direct feelings and has taken on the role of healing.
Dianne moved to Portugal in January 2022, as she and Bill wanted to leave Chicago and were looking for a warm climate to retire. A work colleague of her husband recommended looking at Portugal. During COVID, she hadn’t seen her daughter and grandson, who were living in the UK, so they decided to meet in Portugal for a holiday. During the break, they all fell in love with the Algarve, and now Dianne, Bill and her daughter and grandson all live close to each other.
“I feel as though my entire life changed as we crossed the ocean. Our quality of life changed positively and continues to do so with each passing season. I feel much happier and a lot more content. There is so much we love about Portugal – the gorgeous weather, the summer heat, the sun, the sea, the food, the people, the lifestyle. We are so blessed to live here.”
Of course, when beginning this interview, I assumed that Dianne was interested in promoting the sale of her innovative pieces to the general public. On the contrary, she does not sell her work and no one, apart from friends and family – and now, Tomorrow readers – have viewed her collection! “My interest is always in the creative process. I have never had an interest in selling it or attending craft shows. But I now think I have enough work, so I would like to find a representative who can display some of my most recent work.”
I am not an art expert, but I imagine that such fascinating images of an array of global icons would be very commercial. Is Dianne an undiscovered genius? Well, that is up to you, but if you are in the art world, then you might want to get in touch with Dianne to help her display some of her hidden gems.
Readers can contact Dianne at: my.art2@yahoo.com
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WORDS Dan Costinas
A (tragically short) life of firsts: Carolina Beatriz Ângelo broke through societal barriers to become one of the first female doctors in the country and the first woman to practise surgery. But, perhaps most notably, Sra Ângelo was the first woman to cast a vote in Portugal and one of the first in all of Europe.
The second systematic census of the population of Portugal, covering both the mainland and the archipelagos of the Azores and Madeira, was carried out over 146 years ago, on 1 January 1878, under the reign of Dom Luís I, King of Portugal and the Algarve. According to the reported data, they registered 4,550,699 inhabitants – fewer than half of today’s current population.
Three months later, on 16 April, Carolina Beatriz Ângelo was born in São Vicente, Guarda, in Central Portugal. Beatriz, as family members and friends called her, grew up in a liberal family environment. Her father and maternal grandfather supported the Progressive Party and were involved in the region’s journalistic and publishing activities, allowing and supporting her to study and complete her medical-surgical education in Lisbon, a field dominated by men.
Despite being the only woman in her class, Carolina Beatriz Ângelo’s innovative spirit and dedication were well received by her classmates, and she maintained a close friendship with the future young surgeons until the end of her short life, defying all the limitations placed on women of her time. Upon graduation, she became a pioneer in gynaecology and obstetrics, providing much-needed medical
care to women who had previously had limited access to qualified female doctors.
Beyond medicine, Dr Ângelo was a vocal advocate for women’s rights. A committed suffragist and republican, she believed in equal political participation for all citizens. The term ‘suffragette’ often suggests images of female activists in the early 20th-century United Kingdom. Unlike the UK’s more confrontational tactics, Portuguese feminists employed a measured approach. They argued for suffrage based on principles
of equality and citizenship, and feminist voices of doctors like Carolina Beatriz Ângelo and Adelaide Cabete challenged traditional gender roles. These early feminists advocated for suffrage as a means for women to have a say in issues that directly affected them, such as public health and education. However, the fight for women’s suffrage was a European phenomenon, if not global, and Portugal’s journey towards equal voting rights deserves recognition. The Portuguese path to suffrage involved a network of influential
women, intellectuals and reformers who chipped away at the patriarchal status quo.
In 1911, during the first elections of the newly established (in 1910) Portuguese First Republic, using a legal loophole in the electoral law that didn’t explicitly exclude women, Carolina Beatriz Ângelo registered to vote. Despite some attempts to deny her suffrage, she ultimately cast her ballot, becoming a symbol of defiance and a powerful voice for female enfranchisement.
The passage of a new civil code in 1916 marked a turning point. In 1918, Portugal became one of the first European countries to grant women suffrage, albeit with limitations. Only literate women over 21 who met specific education and property qualifications could vote. While it didn’t grant universal suffrage, it did grant women some legal rights, such as control over their own earnings. Though women’s suffrage wouldn’t be officially recognised in Portugal until 1931, Beatriz Ângelo’s fight paved the way for future generations.
Our protagonist’s life tragically ended in October 1911, when she was only 33, after a fatal sudden cardiac arrest, but her distinct legacy continues to inspire us today. Beatriz is remembered for her medical contributions, unwavering dedication to social justice, and her fight for a more equitable world for everyone. Her story and her groundbreaking achievements in awareness about women’s rights remind us of the power of individual courage in dismantling societal barriers and the importance of the struggle for fundamental reforms.
WORDS Marta Nogueira (Arquivo Municipal de Lagos)
There’s an old tradition in the Algarve, a collective bath in the sea, every year – the so-called Banho 29 (bath 29) or the Banho Santo (holy bath). This bath has taken place since the beginning of the last century. However, there are references with historical roots from several centuries ago. While its origins are unclear, it is likely that this tradition is the remnant of an ancient pilgrimage. On this day, peasants, whether living by the seaside or in rural villages in the interior, flocked to the beaches dressed in traditional costumes.
This bath is now re-enacted by some municipalities such as Aljezur, which celebrates the day with a municipal holiday on 29 August. The events take place in Aljezur (Monte Clérigo beach), Lagos (Cais da Solaria), Luz beach and Meia Praia, Vila Real de Santo António (Manta Rota) and Monchique (Portimão beaches). In Vila Real de Santo António, this bath is part of the parties of São João de Degola, which culminates in the so-called “holy bath” on 29 August. This coincides with the day of the beheading of the saint João Baptista, one of the celebrations that were introduced in the east and west liturgies to honour the popular saint.
Besides this bath, there was also a tradition, in some places such as Vila Real de Santo António, to take the cattle to the sea on this day (image 1 and 2).
In Lagos, the Banho 29 is now part of a bigger party that the municipality maintains annually in the city and in Praia da Luz (with the help of ACRAL and CRCD Luzense), with the traditional bath taking place at midnight and with music on the beaches and many other entertainments such as antique and modern swimsuit contests (image 3).
In Monchique, the Banho 29 happens on 29 September, the day of S. Miguel. This tradition was forgotten for some time but was recently revitalised by the community. In past times, this bath may have also taken place in other places in the Algarve, but unfortunately, the tradition was not maintained.
But it’s not only in the Algarve that this special bath takes place. In Sines, on 29 August, the bathing takes place on Vasco da Gama beach near the city and Praia Grande near Porto Covo. In the north of Portugal, in Esposende (Braga district), there’s the Banho Santo, which takes place on 24 August (image 4 on the next page) where it’s part of the Romaria de S. Bartolomeu do Mar. With the same name as the traditional bathe in Vila Real de Santo António, in the Algarve, Ricardo Braz Frade (© Portugal num mapa) believes that its origins have a cultural connection between the Banho Santo from Esposende and the Banho 29 from the south of Portugal.
A tradition lost in time
Why was this symbolic bath taken in the sea? Why not in a river, near the rural villages where the peasants were living? Maybe this was because there was no ‘sacred’ river where people could take this bath, while the ocean is such an important and constant element in Portuguese culture due to its extensive coast. This tradition may also be related to the worship of nature as a primitive source of modern religious beliefs. Was the ritual influenced by ancient pagan practices worshipping the power of nature?
1. he “holy bath” in Vila Real de Santo António: the cattle in the sea [s.d]. Published by CIIPC/CMVRSA in https:// algarveimaterial.wordpress.com, Banhos S. João de Degola. Unknown author
2. Recreation of the “holy bath” in Vila Real de Santo António: people on the beach [s.d]. Published by CIIPC/ CMVRSA in https://algarveimaterial. wordpress.com, Banhos S. João de Degola. Unknown author
3. The “Banho 29” in Lagos. Maria de la Salete Paixão with her sister in old costumes, 2019
4. © Arquivo Municipal de Lisboa, Banho Santo, Esposende. Artur Pastor, ART002653
It has also been suggested that the banho was influenced by Catholic doctrine regarding the symbolism of baptism as a public act for the purification of sins by water. This seems particularly relevant as, according to the Bible, S. João Baptista baptised Jesus Christ. Is the deeper meaning of baptism and what it represents connected to the bathing ritual on 29 August?
Or, perhaps this ritual, which brings together people from different places on a special day to bathe collectively, had a more cultural significance encouraging people to travel so far when their transport options were difficult and slow. Could this reunion have further significance in bringing together people who lived apart from each other?
This celebration came at the end of the harvest in a time, when there were no official work breaks, and could be an early example of vacation time! In the past, it was not usual to visit the beach as a leisure activity. Bathing was uncommon and not part of daily hygiene routines as it is today.
Salt is a substance that has been used for millennia to flavour, preserve, and purify in many cultures associated with purity, cleanliness and ritualistic rituals. Through purification, protection was achieved. Maybe the combination of water and salt not only cleansed their sins, but purified the body and soul of those who travelled far to take their annual bath? According to folklore, it was worth 29 times or 29 baths and also kept ‘the demon away’.
These musings raise more questions than answers about a tradition whose origins have been lost in time but continue to bring people together today. So whatever the explanation for this piece of history, make sure you don’t miss the fun this 29 August!
After her mother’s death in 2016, Maria de la Salete Pacheco Norte Paixão started participating in the Banho 29 in Lagos to keep the tradition in honour of her mother, who went every year.
A group that included Glória Pacheco Norte, Vitória Norte, Idilia Norte, José Raposo, Fátima Raposo, and Berta started the competition for the best traditional clothing associated with this bathe. But before that, people were already going to Batata Beach in Lagos to take part in a communal Banho 29.
Maria de la Salete remembers: “People were coming from various parts of the countryside, in carts, on horses to take the 29th bath. They brought food and spent the whole day there. When my parents came to Lagos, the main Avenue was still being built, where my father worked as a carpenter.” Maria de la Salete Norte Pacheco Branco, niece of Maria de la Salete, adds: “This was a real tradition. Today I think it should be kept to save its authenticity regardless of the current tourist potential.”
We also spoke with Maria José Guerreiro Pacheco from Lagos. She remembers that her parents travelled from Santana da Serra (Ourique municipality) to have this bath every year. She remembers that the tradition was related to health, especially for the most fragile children or those with rickets. “The cold and salty water seemed to help the blood circulation and the general health of the children. For some people, this bath was regarded as a thermal therapeutic moment. But in my case, this experience made me afraid of the sea."
Besides its deep meaning and origins, this bath still takes place every year in the Algarve. This old and unique tradition will continue to transport us to those interesting ancient times.
Acknowledgements: Fábio Miguel Nunes Ventura (proofreading); Maria de la Salete Pacheco Norte Paixão; Maria de la Salete Norte Pacheco Branco; Maria José Guerreiro Pacheco (testimonies about the “Banho 29”); Archivist from the Algarve city hall of Vila Real de Santo António (Madalena Guerreiro).
References:
Ricardo Braz Frade - O Banho 29 In Portugal num mapa. Artigo 27 novembro 2020. Disponível em: https://www. portugalnummapa.com/o-banho-29/
José António Guerreiro GasconSubsídios para a monografia de Monchique, 2.ª ed., 1993.
João Romão e Cecília Branco (Coord.); Hugo Cavaco, João Romão (Texts) - Vila Real de Santo António: cidade de suaves mutações. Um século de fotografias. Câmara Municipal de Vila Real de Santo António, [2002]
After an absence of five years, the Salema Festival returns. The tradition dates back to the early 1980s and honours Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes.
Festivities begin on 3 August at 3 pm with the Eucharist in the old fish market, followed by a procession dedicated to the sea and evening musical entertainment.
On 4 August, at 10 am, the sports events will take place on the beach, reintroducing a tradition from times gone by! The awards are scheduled to be handed out at 6.30 pm, and the party continues with two musical performances, a dance and a DJ, late into the night.
Drink and food are available on both days: traditional snacks, regional sweets, dinner service and food trucks.
3–4 August 3 pm to late
Rua do Pescadores, Salema
Clube Recreativo Praia da Salema cluberp.salema@gmail.com
This annual fair celebrates the arts, crafts, tourism, agriculture, commerce and industry of Lagoa. Experience the best of culture, music and the traditions of the Algarve. This year, the fair brings a variety of exhibitors dedicated to agriculture and livestock, highlighting diversity and quality. From cattle breeds to other products, there's something for every country lover. Then, move onto the lagoon stage for live music and dance.
5€ for an individual ticket or 16€ for a family ticket. Ticket offices near the fairground during the days of the fair, or available at the Convento de São José Cultural Centre, CTT shops and Worten shops; Online via BOL fatacil.bol.pt
16 August – 25 August
Parque Municipal de Feiras e Exposições de Lagoa www.facebook.com/fatacil.lagoa
Step back in time and witness how the Moors and Christians lived during the Middle Ages at this nine-day festival. Immerse yourself in the culture and history of Silves as the city transforms into a bustling hub of activity with performers, dancers and artisans showcasing their talents. Participate in the excitement by watching jousting tournaments, exploring traditional markets and enjoying delicious cuisine.
Don't miss your chance to witness a liveaction history lesson like no other. Tickets will be on sale at BOL and at FNAC, Worten, CTT and EI Corte Inglés
9 – 17 August
Silves
www.facebook.com/feiramedievalsilves
The second Costa Vicentina Early Music Festival presents two concerts, on 24 and 31 August at Igreja Matriz Vila do Bispo. There will also be musical instrument making workshops from Domingos Vaz. Free entrance for concerts and 5€ for the open lessons.
24 August – 31 August
Vila do Bispo
www.facebook.com/ocorvoearaposa
Artist Dave King attended Cardiff and Chelsea art schools. He later taught art and photography for 30 years.
With multiple exhibitions across the UK over the years, King is now a resident of the Algarve and will be having his fifth show of work in the region, this time at MARLO Showroom, Lagos.
King clearly has been influenced by multiple artistic genres and takes joy in combining them. The seemingly simplistic shapes and arrangements within these paintings do not come from a Pop Art or cartooning tradition but are a result of improvised drawing – playing with line. The process is a ‘game’ of lining things up and jigsawing shapes together. Dave’s interest in Abstraction and Cubism ultimately dictates the outcome.
The subject matter is recognisable but he deals with these subjects purely in terms of their shape and colour. The works do not depict any particular place but allow the viewer to recognise objects and scenes from their own memories.
Vernissage: Friday the 30th of August, 5 - 8 pm The exhibition will be on display until October.
Held at the MARLO Outdoor Furniture Showroom. Welcome to all. Drinks will be served.
Praça do Infante is once again filled with music with the return of ‘Animação de Rua’. Various artists will liven up the summer evenings in Lagos, including Fábio Muchacho (2/08), Eurico & Cristina (9/08), Carlos Agapito (15/08), Humberto Silva (23/08), Ricardo Glória (30/08) and Cláudio Rosário (5/09). On 12 September, the party will be even bigger, with a show featuring all the artists who have performed on this stage. Free entry.
2 August – 12 September
Praça do Infante, Lagos cm-lagos.pt/municipio/eventos
The Seafood Festival is coming back to Olhão in August. The largest gastronomic event in the south of the country takes you to the Olhanense fisherman's garden, in the city's riverside area, to experience the best of the region's gastronomy alongside a fantastic musical lineup. There are concerts from Calema, Ana Moura, Pluto, Diogo Piçarra and Maninho.
Tickets on sale at Ticketline and their distribution network.
10 – 14 August
Jardim Pescador Olhanense, Olhão www.facebook.com/festivaldomariscodeolhao
FASHION ACCESSORIES · ART LIVING & DECORATION · YOGA PROPS
Vegan Bistro with patio
Vegan Small Delights, Cakes, Smoothies, Coffee & Tea, Wine & Beer
Kasia Wrona's exhibition ‘Catarina, Katarzyna, Kasia Wrona uma pessoa’ explores the idea of the different personas she has developed over 33 years. Portugal has invigorated Kasia´s palette and provided her with many dramatic experiences that have inspired her to paint. She has taught drawing classes at Art Academy Marina de Lagos for 12 years and continues to inspire artists by hosting cultural events there. Free entry.
The opening is on Saturday, 31 August, at 6 pm, and it will run until 27 October.
Lagos Cultural Centre facebook.com/CentroCulturaldeLagos
Portimão hosts the third Mar Me Quer Festival in August. An unforgettable encounter between music, culture and the sea, the festival runs for three days. With environmental awareness as a central priority, the festival will promote ecological practices such as the use of recyclable materials, waste reduction and awareness of ocean conservation.
RUA CONVENTO
SRA. DA GLÓRIA 7A, LAGOS (Near the bus station)
Events, Workshops, Gatherings, International & Vegan Wines WWW.LITASCONCEPTSTORE.COM
8 – 10 August doors open at 6 pm Zona Ribeirinha de Portimão blueticket.meo.pt www.facebook.com/marmequer.pt
WORDS Flora Kouta
The palm tree is one of the most beautiful sights in the Algarve. Some are tall and elegant with smooth trunks and symmetrical fronds, while others are short and stout with raggedy spikes, but they are all equally lovely to me. They get a real battering all year round with daily lashings from the Algarve wind, but they remain totally unbothered, standing as proud and majestic as ever.
Palm trees aren’t just a pretty face. They’ve been providing food and shelter since ancient times. The date palm is a symbol of prosperity and fertility across the Arab world, and palm trees appear in the scriptures of Christianity, Judaism and Islam. Grown 5,000 years ago, for their shade, high-energy fruit and construction materials, they continue to be useful to this day. Their fruit, leaves and fibres make everything from medicines to brushes and baskets.
Today we associate palm trees with holiday destinations and relaxation, beachside resorts and luxuriant living. Perhaps that’s why, when it comes to interiors, palm trees and palm prints are so welcoming. They say, ‘Oh hello there, do come inside and have a cocktail.’
If your living space is looking a bit dry and boring, palms can help you create a verdant oasis. Palm motifs work in so many different types of homes; they can be uplifting and fun, or elegant and glamorous … it all depends on how you style them. If you want to create breezy beach house vibes, pair bright green palms and pops of colour with lots of white and light wood. If you prefer a sophisticated boudoir, go for palms in more neutral tones with dark woods, deep greens and gold accents. You don’t have to go full-on jungle, you could update a plain sofa or bed with a scattering of palm print cushions. Even the smallest sprinkling of palm leaves will add depth and interest to a room.
If you want to bring the beauty of the outside inside, you can’t go wrong with inviting some palms into your home. Aaah, go on, put on that tropical print dressing gown you haven’t yet dared to wear, ask Alexa for a bit of Wham! Or make yourself a Pina Colada and let the swaying palms soothe you!
If the other members of your household are not ready for a palm print feature wall, you could introduce the real thing with a beautiful house plant. Palms are fantastic air cleaners, with the areca, dwarf date and bamboo palm making NASA’s list of best toxin removers.
If you don’t have green fingers and plants die in your home before they have a chance to clean the air, then an artificial palm is a good option. The one pictured on the right is from Casa in Portimão, you will not find a more real-looking fake in the whole Algarve.
Is the framed photo print in the room on the right a cactus, a palm, a succulent or a cycad? (The gardeners reading this are rolling their eyes at my stupidity.) I took about 50 photos of this pretty plant before I got one good enough to print and put on the wall and I didn’t even know what it was. I had to look it up. A search on Google told me it was a blue agave, the plant from which you make tequila. I heard myself let out an ‘oooh!’ just thinking about how many free margaritas I could get from my garden. But when I showed the picture to a friendly botanist in a bus queue, he immediately said, ‘Ah no, it’s a Foxtail, silly!’
It’s amazing what you can learn from sitting beside a botanist on a very long bus journey to Faro airport! 1.
I was surprised to learn recently that palm trees are not natives of Portugal. I had assumed they were born here like the olive, carob, cork-oak, lemon, orange, almond and fig trees, but, no, they were brought in from North Africa by the Moors. Portugal’s only indigenous palm is the Chamaerops Humilis, commonly and rather insultingly known as the Mediterranean dwarf palm.
Its range extended from the Algarve through the Alentejo to the Serra da Arrábida near Lisbon. Today, you only really see them in the Algarve, clinging onto the cliffs for dear life. It’s a trooper – it grows on poor and rocky soils, survives fires by resprouting from underground rhizomes, prevents erosion and provides a habitat for many species of small animals. Oh, and its fruits are used in medicine as an astringent and its leaves are made into mats, ropes and baskets. Those fantastic beach bags with the tanned leather straps you see all over the Algarve are made from the humble Mediterranean dwarf palm. So, give her a respectful nod the next time you see one getting weather-beaten.
WORDS David Lugg
The Vilamoura Vipers are a newly formed netball club with high ambitions. Their journey began in 2023 with a strong focus on "nurturing the talents of young athletes to play on a national level and represent Portugal at international fixtures’. Club Director Sheba Karamat founded the club after finding a dearth of sporting opportunities for girls in the area. The Vipers have gone from strength to strength and recently returned from a competition at the Algarve 7’s in Vila Real de Santo António. Prospective new players can contact Sheba on +44 7912 220769 or by visiting www.vipersnetballclub.com
The Lisboa Devils have won the Portuguese American football championships for the fourth time following a nail-biting 2827 victory over city rivals Lisboa Navigators. In what is labelled the ‘Portuguese Superbowl’, the Devils fought back from 20-7 down to win their first title since 2019.
The Kayak Clube Castores do Arade is celebrating after winning three gold medals at the European Championships in Hungary. The Estômbar-based club will be delighted to have seen Kevin Santos and Iago Bebiano win the K2 200m title whilst Norberto Mourão became European Champion at the VL2 200m event.
Portugal’s sole representative at this year’s Wimbledon Championships suffered a disappointing defeat in the first round. World number 50 Nuno Borghes lost 6-2, 7-6, 2-6, 6-3 to Japanese player Yoshihito Nishioka. The Portuguese women’s number one, Francisca Jorge, exited in the first round of qualifying.
The Portuguese men’s team have won an historic match against Namibia. The two sides last played each other in 1990 where Namibia ran out 86-9 winners, but Portugal are a different beast these days and went into the match as slight favourites. On a hard, dry pitch in Windhoek, the home side came out with all guns blazing and took a 6-0 lead with two penalties, but Portugal fought back admirably with two tries to lead 17-13 at halftime. Two further tries in the second half from Os Lobos finally killed off the Namibian resistance with Portugal taking the spoils 37-22.
The CRUAl Kids Rugby Club in Lagoa are on the lookout for a new head coach. Dave Alger has decided to step down to allow someone else to come in with new ideas and fresh legs. Dave spoke to Tomorrow following a successful threeday school initiative where over two hundred children took part in rugby training. “It (stepping down) is a decision that has been made with reluctance, but I’ll still be fully involved in the club as it grows.” Prospective new coaches can contact the club at (PT) +351 914 447 799 / (EN) +351 962 315 256 or crualg@gmail.com
Portugal has exited the World Cup of Darts in the group stages. Despite having beaten the USA in their first match, they lost four sets to three to group minnows Italy in the deciding match. Vastly experienced, world number 30 José de Sousa captained the Portuguese side but he will be bitterly disappointed at their early exit. In the final, England beat surprise package Austria 10-6 for a record-breaking fifth title and their first since 2016.
With the pandemic, some personal plans did not materialise for Master Rey, but other opportunities arose, notably the chance to work with Ricardo Sousa on his Fusion project, an association aimed at helping the community. In this role, Master Rey would teach and train jiu-jitsu as a defence against bullying, preparing children and teenagers to gain more self-confidence, self-control, and other valuable skills and abilities. Currently, the student Thiago Praxedes, who was awarded a black belt by Master Rey, proudly continues this project under the guidance of Ricardo Sousa.
With the Summer Fight Lagos (Algarve) Jiu-Jitsu Championship taking place in Lagos this month, I would like to introduce one of the participating clubs and the story “behind” the REY BJJ Jiu-Jitsu Club.
WORDS Cristina Ribeirinho
José Rinaldo de Arruda dos Santos, better known as “Master Rey”, was born in Pernambuco, Brazil. When he was just five years old, his father passed away, which led him and his mother to move to the northern region of São Paulo, to Brasilândia. As Master Rey says, “Even the people would say, this is not a favela, here it’s a community.”
In school, despite being intelligent, he was a student who “did not tolerate insults”, which led to many fights with his classmates and complaints to his mother, Maria Esperança Arruda. When he was nine years old, in an attempt to help him, Maria decided to enrol him in boxing classes with Professor José, at the Nacional Club. Up until he was 12, it was his sport.
Around that time, a social project led by Judo Sensei Milton Campos appeared in his area and, thus, Master Rey began his journey in martial arts. Over the years, alongside earning a degree in Physical Education, Master Rey trained in various martial arts, from judo to aikido. He trained with Sensei Edilson Gregório, who he considers his role model and sensei (teacher) and, to this day, he follows the same class format on his tatami. At the age of 22, he started training in jiu-jitsu with Master Igor Cavallo, who, in his words, after 20 years, “is one of the best jiu-jitsu fighters I have ever known in my life”.
Holding a purple belt, Master Rey emigrated to Portugal in 2018. Upon arriving in Lagos, he met other jiu-jitsu practitioners, Thiago Praxedes, Ivan Carvalho, and Josué Vasconcelos, and they began training in the back of an old supermarket beneath the tax office (now the Elite Wellness by Santos Gym). Being the most advanced in rank among them, and at Josué’s insistence, Rey began teaching them. And thus, “Master Rey” was born.
From that point on, Master Rey began teaching and training in jiu-jitsu, accumulating knowledge himself and advancing through the belts, until he proudly reached the rank he holds today, a firstdegree black belt. In Lagos, he was officially the first master to practise the martial art of jiu-jitsu in a certified sports facility, at the Lift Gym.
He explains his motivation. “I speak for myself when I say that my focus is for children to be champions in all aspects of life. To become a good father, a good wife, a good worker, a good boss, a good leader and a good follower. That’s the focus. To have more, you need to have selfcontrol and self-confidence, [to] study, chase after your goals, work, fight and know that life isn’t easy. Life will knock you down, but just like on the mat, I fall, I get up. I fall, I get up. That’s what will make our children champions.”
“REY BJJ” opened its doors to lovers and practitioners of the martial art of jiu-jitsu, as well as its philosophy, in January of this year, supported by Master Rey´s longtime friend, Master Rodrigo Barros, who also teaches various classes. “The couch is our biggest enemy, and for children, it’s the PlayStation, the television, the computer and the cellphone,” explains Master Rey, “But the parents hold the reins. And parents are the mirror for their children. If you only do these things, don’t expect your child to do differently because that’s the example you set.”
Mr. Orlando, the current President of the Grupo de Amigos do Chinicato, is one of the major supporters of REY BJJ, providing the club’s event room so that students have a space to practise and socialise.
And for Master Rey, there are no excuses for indolence. “Those who are good at making excuses aren’t good at doing anything. If you always make excuses, you’ll never be good at doing anything. So don’t make excuses, just go and do it.”
So if you want a new focus for an adult or a child, in the words of a famous sports brand, ’Just do it’!
The Jiu-Jitsu Championship takes place on 9 and 10 August at the Lagos Sports Complex Pavilion, with free entry for the community and the general public (smoothcomp.com/pt_BR/event/11262) .
Master Rey´s classes are held at the Grupo de Amigos do Chinicato every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, from 3.30 pm to 9.00 pm (summer schedule). REY BJJ offers classes in self-defence, jiu-jitsu, and adapted jiu-jitsu for children, adults, and anyone interested in practising the martial art of jiu-jitsu.
A longer version of this article which explains how martial arts benefit children can be found on our blog.
+351 962 747 992
Oficialreybjj@gmail.com
www.instagram.com/reybjj.19
It’s that time of year again when I start cracking the whip about protecting your skin and the problems that can happen if you don’t!
WORDS Donna Groom
One of our must-haves is sunblock. It works by protecting the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. UV radiation includes UVA and UVB rays, both of which can damage the skin and lead to various skin issues, including cancer, sunburn and premature ageing.
How does sunblock work? Sunblocks use two main types of active ingredients: physical blockers and chemical absorbers.
Physical blockers, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, work by sitting on the skin’s surface and reflecting or scattering UV radiation away from the skin. These ingredients are often preferred for their broad-spectrum protection, shielding the skin from both UVA and UVB rays. They are also less likely to cause skin irritation, making them suitable for sensitive skin and for use in products designed for children.
Chemical absorbers, on the other hand, function by absorbing UV radiation and converting it into harmless heat. These ingredients include compounds like avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octinoxate. Each chemical absorber is formulated to target specific wavelengths of UV radiation, thereby providing comprehensive protection when combined in a single product. Very much like a science project but very fascinating how it works whilst we bask in the sun.
Proper application is crucial for sunblock efficacy. It should be applied generously and evenly to all exposed skin at least 15–30 minutes before sun exposure. To maintain protection, reapplication every two hours or immediately after swimming or sweating is necessary.
Hypertrophy of the labia minora, a common concern, can be effectively addressed with clinicbased treatments under local anaesthesia and it can be combined with other treatments.
WORDS Dr. Rita Meireles
In the realm of self-care, the intimate region merits attention just like any other part of the body. Over time, it undergoes natural ageing processes and hormonal shifts during pregnancy and childbirth. Significant weight fluctuations can further accelerate aesthetic and functional changes.
The landscape of female genital rejuvenation has evolved significantly, witnessing remarkable advancements in non-invasive techniques that mark a substantial leap forward in intimate rejuvenation. These techniques provide minimally invasive options and quicker recovery times. Radiofrequency (RF) has emerged as a promising alternative to traditional methods. It stimulates collagen and elastin production, and promotes tissue remodelling.
These cutting-edge technologies aim to reverse the signs of ageing and address functional issues stemming from decreased tissue elasticity, such as pelvic floor dysfunction, urinary incontinence and reduced sexual satisfaction.
Conversely, the loss of volume and firmness in the labia majora, a hallmark of ageing, can be addressed through a range of interventions like fat grafting and technologies such as radiofrequency and microneedling that aim to improve skin quality and volume but also address hyperpigmentation concerns.
Vaginal atrophy is a common problem, causing symptoms such as vaginal dryness, itching, dyspareunia, urinary infections and discharge. Radiofrequency can recover the loss of vaginal wall tone and decreased sensitivity, as well as enhancing sexual satisfaction and urinary incontinence.
Integrating electrostimulation technologies into treatment protocols further enhances outcomes by restoring pelvic and abdominal muscle tone and strength.
If carried out by experienced professionals, these innovative protocols allow for an early return to daily life. By addressing both aesthetic and functional concerns, treatments can empower women to prioritise their intimate health, enhancing their physical, emotional and sexual well-being without compromising their active lifestyle.
Dr. Rita Meireles is a plastic surgeon at Up Clinic.
WORDS Phil Harding
In the enchanting Lagos Marina, an extraordinary fine dining experience awaits aboard the largest luxury motor yacht in the area. Owned and captained by the charismatic Henri, this 75-foot Sunseeker motor yacht offers an unmatched combination of culinary excellence and stunning views of the Algarve coastline.
The experience was conceived from the love of luxury on the ocean and dining at its finest. The result is an unforgettable experience. With the dedicated crew, including Paulo as concierge and a team of skilled chefs, guests are treated to a personalised and unforgettable journey tailored to their specific needs.
A collaboration with Algarve Boat Rentals, the elegant vessel can comfortably accommodate up to 14 guests for a day charter or up to six guests for an exclusive brunch or gourmet lunch, either out at sea or in the marina.
Henri takes great pride in the unique experience he has created with Algarve Boat Rental. Their combined passion for the sea and dedication to hospitality is evident in every aspect of the journey.
Dining aboard the largest luxury motor yacht in Lagos Marina is more than just a meal; it’s an extraordinary adventure that engages all the senses. With Henri at the helm, Paulo ensures every detail is perfect, and expert chefs craft exquisite dishes. Every moment aboard this stunning Sunseeker powerboat is designed to create lasting memories against the backdrop of the beautiful Algarve coastline. For the more adventurous, there's the option to rent the onboard jetski to explore the coastline closer. Indulge in this exceptional experience and discover the true meaning of luxury at sea.
A Michelin Gem in Portimão, # 8 in the Top 250 Best Restaurants Algarve 2024
WORDS Peter Cruiming
Numa Restaurant is a modern Portuguese restaurant in Portimão that opened two years ago. It is the realisation of a culinary dream for chef and owner Nuno Martins, who trained in the best Michelin restaurants in the Algarve, such as BonBon and the fivestar resort Vila Vita Parc. The restaurant is already on the Michelin list, the precursor to earning a real Michelin star.
Ambience and Atmosphere
Upon entering, you are welcomed into a beautifully decorated space. The semi-open kitchen gives you a unique insight into the chef’s passion and hard work. The intimate and modern interior creates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere. Chef Nuno and his wife Manuela João together provide a warm welcome, with Nuno regularly coming to the table to explain the dishes.
Sustainable Menu at Numa Restaurant
Appetizers and Bread Service
Our dinner began with a delicious amusebouche, so flavorful that our son Elyas wanted to order more. Next, we received the bread service, consisting of homemade bread, olive oil from Monchique, and the tastiest olive tapenade we have ever eaten. Elyas also enjoyed delicious gluten-free bread.
Starters
Elyas enjoyed a flavorful soup as a starter, while we savoured a savoury pie with lime foam.
Main Courses
For the main course, we chose sweet potato stew, while Elyas enjoyed a delicious pumpkin terrine. As Nuno personally explains, all dishes are seasonal and
prepared with local products. This not only ensures fantastic taste but also a sustainable kitchen with a zero-waste policy.
Vegetarian and Vegan at Michelin Level
Numa offers various vegetarian and vegan dishes on the à la carte menu, in addition to fish and meat, from just €21. Very modest prices for such divine dishes!
Fine Dining Tasting Menu
For true gourmets, there is an eight-course tasting menu available for only €79. This menu offers a selection of fish, meat, or vegan dishes, all at a Michelin-worthy level.
Michelin Quality at Affordable Prices
Dining at Numa means enjoying Michelinstar-level dishes but at a third of the price. This makes the restaurant an affordable luxury for anyone who wants to enjoy the finest flavours of fine dining the Algarve has to offer.
Opening Hours
Numa Restaurant is open for dinner Monday through Saturday from 7 pm to 10.30 pm. It is closed on Sunday.
Bon appétit!
Av. Miguel Bombarda 17, 8500-299 Portimão Reservations: reservas@numarestaurante.pt www.hotspotsalgarve.com/restaurants/numa-restaurant
Enjoying the summer through rosé coloured glasses.
WORDS Candice Olsen
As we all get deeper into summer, high season and high temperatures here in the Algarve, I started thinking, ‘What is the perfect wine to unwind with, to share by the pool or at the beach? As well as something light and fresh to pair with grilled sardines?’ And I started seeing pink!
As rosé wine has seen an increase in consumer interest more recently here in Portugal, many producers are taking the risk and producing fresh rosé wines made from only red grapes. My number one pick is actually the first rosé wine to be released from this producer. It is a 2023 vintage that only landed on the shelves a few weeks ago.
Adega do Passo Premium Rosé, Borba, Alentejo 2023 7.30€ - buy only at Wines&Co. The quintessential pale rose colour would make any lover of French rosé salivate. Extremely dry, well-balanced and mineral, it is influenced by the Atlantic climate. It is fresh and light with hints of white peach and raspberry, and a long mineral finish.
Gravura do Côa Rosé Douro 2022 5.90€ - buy at Wines&Co and Online
This is a classic Douro blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. It is a lovely pale salmon colour, dry, balanced, and smooth. It is refreshing with hints of strawberries, apricot and cream, delicate and lightly mineral.
Valmaduro Premium Rosé, Lisbon 2022 Casa Santos Lima 4.49€ - buy at Continente
A lovely blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Castelão, a very fruit-forward rosé with a dry finish. Full of juicy, sugar-kissed strawberries, cherry and mango.
I’d love to hear your feedback and what other tasting notes you might find in your wines that I haven’t mentioned.
candyleacane@me.com
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▪ Recipes of a range of pies, rolls, pasties, quiche and sausage,
▪ Full assistance from Borley’s cook,
▪ Some required equipment,
▪ Knowledge of food business rules,
▪ Some consumables,
▪ Main providers in Portugal as well as in England,
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Amounts involved to be negotiated.
To be honest, the only reason I know how to make this popular Malaysian beef noodle dish is because I was pining for its flavours.
This type of food is typically eaten for dinner or supper (a meal after dinner which is very common for Asians). It is enjoyed in simple surroundings, while sitting under a zinc roof or in a hot and dingy coffee shop down a side street. It was often prepared by an uncle, preferably over charcoal with large flames curling around the wok he fired up to smoke a plate of these noodles. There are so many memories linked to this dish but I finally found a way to simplify it for myself. I think I have captured enough of the original flavours to make it drool-worthy for anyone.
INGREDIENTS
For the beef:
• 250g beef sirloin cut into thin slices
• ¼ tsp brown sugar
• ¼ tsp salt
• ¼ tsp light soy sauce
• ¼ tsp Chinese cooking wine
• ¼ tsp white pepper
• 1 tbsp cornflour
Noodles:
• 120g of flat rice noodles
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 tbsp dark soy sauce
Sauce:
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1 cup chicken stock
• 5 cloves garlic
• 10 thin slices of ginger
• 1 tbsp oyster sauce
• 1 tbsp Chinese cooking wine
• 1 tbsp light soy sauce
• ½ tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tbsp slurry
• 1 cup spring onions
• 2 cups Chinese cabbage chopped
• 2 large eggs
Pickled chillies:
• 2 green or yellow chillies
• 1 cup hot water water
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tbsp sugar
Slurry:
• 1 tbsp cornflour
• 1 tbsp room temperature water
INSTRUCTIONS
There are a few steps to this dish that require your undivided attention. First let’s begin with the beef, the heart of this dish.
Slice the beef thinly and marinate with salt, sugar, light soy, Chinese wine and corn flour. Let this rest for at least an hour while you work on the noodles. You can also marinate overnight.
Bring the water to the boil and lightly blanch your flat rice noodles. There should still be a little bite to the noodles. Heat your wok with some oil and then add your noodles in. Mix your dark soy into the noodles and stir to coat evenly. You
will notice the colour of your noodles taking on the darkness and caramelising at the edges from the sugar of the soy. Remove from the wok and set aside on your plate.
Now heat your wok again with vegetable oil, add the ginger and garlic and fry until golden brown. Add your beef, stirfrying for around 5–6 minutes.
Add the oyster sauce, Chinese cooking wine, soy sauce and brown sugar, stirring for a few more minutes.
Then the chicken stock goes in, bringing it to the boil. Now your vegetables can be added to the mix.
Once slightly wilted, add your slurry. You need to keep stirring until your broth thickens. This will happen very quickly – in a matter of seconds. Switch off your wok and crack two eggs, stirring very quickly to create an ‘egg drop’ where the eggs split and form little ribbons of yellow and white in the gravy.
Add your spring onions now and pour them all over your flat rice noodles to serve.
Pickled chillies are a very common condiment in Asian dishes. In this beef noodle recipe, pickled chillies are an absolute must-have, as the acidity and spice cut through the richness of the dish. Pickling chillies, my way is super easy.
Bring water to the boil in a kettle and pour it over the chillies with white vinegar, salt and sugar (measurements above).
Once the temperature cools, you can transfer the mixture to a glass jar with a snug lid and refrigerate. It’s really as simple as that! My pickled chillies keep in the fridge for up to two months.
A slurry is a concoction that thickens your broth to make a sauce. I feel like I can say almost every other Southeast Asian dish I cook utilises this slurry. The great thing about a slurry is that it can turn even a simple chicken stock into a thick sauce to adorn your noodles or rice. It is super simple to make too. All you need to do is combine equal parts cornflour with room temperature water and stir quickly until the liquid thickens. You must use this slurry immediately otherwise, the flour will sink to the bottom. You can, of course, stir again to combine flour and water to bring it back to life.
Cornflour is easily available here (farinha de milho) but, if you cannot find it, you can replace it with potato flour/starch. I have experimented using this slurry for Western dishes to thicken a sauce and it works amazingly too!
Joy Entry is a Malaysian home cook based in Lagos who is obsessed with the provocative, unapologetic flavours of South-East Asian cuisine
Instagram: @thatasianhomecook joyentry@gmail.com
It will not have gone unnoticed by visitors and locals of Praia da Luz that the Paraíso Beach Bar has risen like a phoenix from the flames and reopened on the site of the shocking February fire.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
Paraíso, owned and run by the Reis family, has been a part of the Praia da Luz landscape for decades. It started in 1964 as a small kiosk which sold food and drinks and then later rented sunshades. The structure was then extended but needed to be taken down at the end of every season.
In 1976, a properly constructed restaurant was established which became the Paraíso. In 2001, there was a new government directive that beach bars needed to be raised off the beach and it reopened in 2002 with the building built on wooden stilts that we all knew.
The stunning restaurant with glorious views over Luz beach was completely razed to the ground by a fierce fire which began just after midnight. It was a night that owner Miguel Reis describes as “devastating”. He and his wife were out of the country at the time on holiday and had to rush
back as the authorities investigated the cause of the explosion which was heard throughout Luz. Miguel confirmed to me that the fire was started by an electrical fault in a fridge.
At the beginning of this summer, the sad wreckage of the restaurant was cleared away. Determined not to be kept down for long, the Reis family applied for a temporary licence for this summer to keep their staff in work and serve those who wish to enjoy some food and drink with an unbeatable view of the beach. It now has a Caribbean beach vibe, enclosed with a rattan fence and mini palms.
I visited on a Friday night with friends to enjoy some very reasonably priced cocktails. We sat on bean bags and deck chairs on the sand, with a clear view of the kids playing on the beach. We ordered some great nibbles, including a tapas
Once more, Tom Henshaw is out and about in Lagos, sacrificing his waistline for the greater good and revealing new eateries for Tomorrow readers to enjoy!
A historic windmill in Lagos has been restored as a bar and grill, with sunny outdoor seating and pleasant gardens. Here you can enjoy wholesome, grilled meat and fish, all cooked over charcoal – at old-fashioned prices. What more could you ask?
The Windmill is set behind a small, municipal, green space planted with bougainvillea and honeysuckle, surrounded by apartments and local shops on Rua Hospital São João de Deus.
Bought as a ruin and restored in 1989 as a snack bar, it has grown in popularity over the years as a friendly ‘watering hole’ for locals and estrangeiros who live nearby, as Julie and I do.
plate, calamari and bifanas, while the sun went down. Paradise.
I put it to Miguel that we all actually thought that it was preferable to have your toes in the sand while enjoying a sundowner and Miguel agreed. He has applied to the câmara for a new licence and submitted an application for part of the restaurant to actually be on the beach, although regulations stipulate that the restaurant would still need to be raised above the beach. Fingers crossed he achieves this as our group felt the new set up was what a beach bar should look like.
We hope that Paraíso will enjoy a successful resurrection and we can keep enjoying its views and warm hospitality long into the future.
Paraíso is currently open between 12.30 pm and 10 pm every day.
It is now under the new management of a charming Bulgarian couple, Sveta and Lou. “It’s an experiment,” says Sveta. From a charcoal grill, discreetly sited behind a climbing jasmine, they now serve a delicious new menu. Conjured up by master churasqueirista Rui, who they found after a long search, the chalked menu is shown in our photograph. What isn’t shown are the remarkably good value prices.
Julie and I visited at lunchtime with a Portuguese friend of ours and her mum, who had a feast of sardines when they were just coming to their plump best: seven sardines per person, boiled potatoes, and a delicious Algarvian salad with onions and red peppers among other goodies.
All ingredients were fresh from the Santo Amaro market, barely 300 metres away. The feasts cost 7€ per person, plus a half-litre jarro of red wine for 4€. You can’t beat that for value!
We chose a hamburger made by Svet, with beef from the renowned Talho André and her own mix of herbs and garlic. Succulent, moist and delicious, it came with tomato, lettuce, onion, red pepper, melted cheese, and a mountain of chips. Again, it presented exceptional value.
Let’s hope more people sample O Moinho Grill over the next few months and that Svet decides to make it available to evening customers soon.
Opening times: 9 am - 2 pm. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
O Moinho, Rua Hospital São João de Deus +351 932 973 876
seadragons and pipefish. The Latin name hippocampus derives from the ancient Greek word composed of two terms: Hippos (horse) and Kampos (sea monster).
If you have been following Tomorrow magazine’s wildlife column, you will know by now that Portugal has an incredible variety of wildlife, including some species that most people do not expect to find here.
WORDS Luis de Teves Costa
One of the most enigmatic of all sea creatures is the seahorse. These mystical creatures are usually associated with exotic destinations, bright blue waters, clear underwater visibility and coral reefs. Yet, they can also be found in Portugal. At least two different species live in our coastal waters and river estuaries. Very delicate beings, these little fish live in striking distance of major cities, fishing villages and busy ports where, fortunately for them, their existence remains reasonably unknown.
Named after the shape of their heads and snouts that resemble an equine, seahorses are part of the Syngnathidae family which also includes
Commonly classed as a fish due to the presence of a swim bladder that provides buoyancy and also the fact that they use gills for breathing, these fish lack scales. Instead, they grow an exoskeleton. Their bodies are covered by bony plates covered with a thin skin. Seahorses are very slow-moving creatures that use their tails to cling to seagrass, rocks or any underwater structures preventing the ocean currents from washing them away. Without any teeth, they vacuum suck their prey, which consists mainly of microorganisms called plankton.
Perhaps the most astonishing fact about seahorses is that it is the male that gets pregnant and gives birth! That’s right, the female deposits the eggs into the male’s brood pouch on his abdomen and the male fertilises the eggs, becoming pregnant. The gestation period varies depending on the species, but once the baby seahorses are ready, the male expels them from his belly (gives birth!!).
Chameleons of the seas, seahorses are masters of camouflage, blending in perfectly with their underwater surroundings. Our Atlantic coastal waters are often turbulent and murky, making sightings very challenging. This, again, is an advantage for seahorses against natural predators and illegal catching. Much like the chameleons on land, seahorses have prehensile tails that can change colour to match the environment or express their moods, and they have the same ability to move their eyes independently.
One of the species found in Portugal is the long-snouted seahorse (Hippocampus guttulatus), also known as the spiny seahorse. With distinctive spines on the head, neck and back, these fish grow to 21 centimetres in length and live between five and seven years.
The other one is the short-snouted seahorse (Hippocampus hippocampus). As the name indicates, these animals have smaller head features and are smaller than their cousins, only growing to 15 centimetres in length. They are also more discrete in appearance without the obvious spines and live around five years.
Both species can be found in the east-Atlantic shoreline, from the UK to southern Morocco, including the Azores, Canaries and the Mediterranean Sea. However, there are not enough studies to confidently say that their territory isn’t larger than so far recorded.
Worldwide, around fifty species of seahorses roam our coastal waters and open seas. They are present in all continents with the exception of Antarctica and can be found in shallow waters of less than one metre deep but have also been observed at depths of one-hundred metres. The smallest relative is the Satomi’s pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus satomiae), a native to Indonesia and Borneo that only grows as much as 13 millimetres. The Shire horses of the ocean are the big-bellied or pot-belly seahorses (Hippocampus abdominalis) with adult specimens growing to as much as 35cm in length. These are found in the southwest Pacific around Australia and New Zealand.
In the Algarve, the presence of seahorses in the wetlands of Ria Formosa is reasonably well known locally, and several studies and conservation projects have taken place there over the last decades. Many of these projects are carried out by or with the local University of the Algarve (UALG). Projects here have included monitoring local populations, creating protected areas, improving habitat on selected areas and even breeding programmes in captivity with releases into carefully selected zones. Local tour operators offer seahorse observation programmes where they take small groups on a boat through the maze of Ria Formosa waters to snorkel and hopefully get a glimpse of these magical creatures. If you don’t fancy snorkelling, a visit to the Algarve Life Sciences Centre in Faro will allow you to see these seahorses in a very well-put-together exhibition.
LISBON - Tagus Seahorses
In 2019, a hotspot of seahorses was discovered in Trafaria, a small fishing port and village that sits on the southern side of the Tagus estuary just across from Lisbon. This finding propelled the creation of the Tagus Seahorses project in 2023 by the conservation organisation SeaTheFuture. This project aims to understand the actual dimension and distribution of both seahorse species found in the Tagus River and, by doing this, improve the global data-deficient record on these species. Project work entails regularly diving, counting and measuring individuals, collecting data on population health, range and main threats, and scouting for other hotspots along the estuary.
SeaTheFuture is also working with fishermen in Trafaria to promote the importance of protecting what the project sees as a flagship species for conservation worldwide (much like pandas or snow leopards).
Who knows, maybe we will see the development of seahorse observation programmes in the Tagus river in the future –an idea that will certainly bring opportunities to the local community.
seathefuture.eu/project/tagus-seahorses
in the Algarve
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(00351) 916 294 074 info@algarveconcept.com www.algarveconcept.com +351 282 087 494 pimentapiripiri www.pimenta-piripiri.eu Rua 25 de Abril 44, 8600-763 Lagos
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Explore our beaches with the best Portuguese products. At Mar d’Estórias, protect yourself from the sun with handcrafted sunglasses by Broolls. Don’t let sand be a nuisance on your beach day – take along 100% cotton towels from Futah. Carry everything you need in the traditional wicker baskets available in our shop.
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Summer is already well underway, but the Algarve knows how to extend the warm days until mid-October. There are still many days of sun, sand, salt and long weekends by the sea. And if there is something good about summer, it is the feeling that time stretches out and we can enjoy things at a different pace. Next time you visit a beach, ask yourself about its history or name and discover that everything has a story.
In Mar d’Estórias, we are fascinated by stories, so we have gathered some curiosities about the beaches of the Western Algarve.
Carlos Afonso
Praia da Batata – Lagos
Could this be the beach with the most peculiar name ever? Perhaps, but it is one of the most accessible in Lagos, just a few steps from the historic centre and Mar d’Estórias. There are several theories about the beach’s curious name (beach of potato): a boat may have shipwrecked there, scattering potatoes across the sand, or boats may have unloaded agricultural products, and some potatoes washed ashore. There were attempts to change the name to Praia Formosa, but the name Praia da Batata has prevailed.
In 2013, this beach was named the Best Beach in the World by Condé Nast Traveller, and, in 2024, it received another accolade from Beach Atlas, ranking 23rd among the best beaches in the world for the summer of 2024. These distinctions are well-deserved: the turquoise blue waters contrasting with the cliffs captivate every visitor. Besides its beauty, the beach has a fascinating and resilient history, which led to its name. A nun fled the convent during the atrocities of the First World War through tunnels connected to this beach, and thus, the beach was named after the nun Dona Ana.
forming a community! Originating from Monte Gordo, these people headed to Lagos in the 1950s, hoping to find better living and working conditions. They were nicknamed the Índios da Meia Praia due to their thatched houses. After 25 April 1974, the community built masonry houses by themselves. While the men were at sea, the women worked on neighbourhood construction. The charisma and resilience of this community caught the attention of filmmaker António da Cunha Telles, who documented the building of the houses. Zeca Afonso was also moved and immortalised the community in one of his most famous songs.
The largest beach in Lagos continues to be a place of stories and a favourite spot for beachgoers.
At this beach, there was a rather peculiar battle between locals from Portimão and sailors from the British Navy. The 7th President of the Portuguese Republic, Manuel Teixeira Gomes, described this episode in his “Letters to João de Barros”. He recounts that the sailors decided to explore the coast by land and helped themselves to the locals’ fruit, only to be met with slingshots and large stones from the Farelo stream.
More recently, a President of the Republic helped put Praia do Vau on the map. Mário Soares had his holiday home nearby and, every summer, the locals of Portimão could see him and his wife, Maria Barroso, strolling along the seafront. For those curious about the beach’s name, “vau” refers to a shallow water crossing through which it is possible to wade. Here, a small stream flows into the sea, which is more visible in the winter.
If you scroll through social media, you will surely notice a viral destination where a rock forms the shape of a heart. This place is in the Algarve, more precisely in Lagoa, at Praia da Marinha. At the top of the rocks is a specific spot where, at the right angle, thousands of people take photos for their social media that show the heart shape. This magical beach has been considered one of the top ten in Europe for several years and is among the 100 most beautiful in the world.
