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Welcome to the November edition. Although we are lucky enough in the Algarve to enjoy plenty of sunny days this month, November will mainly be associated with winter, shorter days and grey skies, which is probably why many cultures celebrate festivals in November with lights and candles.
The obvious celebration is Diwali, the Hindu festival of lights, with variations celebrated in other Indian religions. It symbolises the spiritual victory of light over darkness, good over evil and knowledge over ignorance.
All Saints Day, on 1 November, is an important holiday in Portugal and one of the busiest days for flower shops. On this day in the Roman Catholic calendar, people visit the cemetery and place flowers and candles on the graves of their departed loved ones.
St Martin’s Day, also known as Dia de São Martinho, is a popular holiday celebrated in Portugal on 11 November. This day is dedicated to Saint Martin of Tours, a Roman soldier who later became a monk and bishop known for his acts of kindness and generosity. In Portugal, St Martin’s Day is traditionally associated with the tasting of the year’s new wine and the roasting of chestnuts. This celebration marks the end of the harvest season and the arrival of autumn, making it a time for communities to come together and enjoy the fruits of
their labour. It is a joyful occasion that brings people together to enjoy good food, good company and good wine. So, why not join in the festivities and raise a glass to St Martin’s Day this month?
Of course, in November, we will start to see the Christmas lights going up, and whether you like it or not, we will begin to enter the festive spirit and light up the dark days with parties and time with family.
Of course, Tomorrow is lighting up your November with another great edition packed full of fascinating interviews, local events, history, culture, and travel ideas. So make sure you ignite your love of the Algarve by reading the articles in the coming pages, and don´t let your enjoyment of our fabulous region dim – there is still plenty to be enjoyed which will set your senses on fire.
Have a great November!
Sophie, Tom, Phil and the Tomorrow team.
Apology
We would like to highlight that, in the October edition, we credited the article ‘Healing a Broken Heart’ to Claire Linley. In fact, this article was written by Claire Vanessa. We are publishing Claire Linley´s correct article, ‘Couple’s in Crisis’, in this edition. We apologise to both authors for any distress this mistake may have caused.
SEDE: R. SENHORA LORETO LOTE
RAFAEL, 04230, HUÉRCAL DE ALMERÍA CIF: B04250056 Whilst we take every care to ensure details are correct the publisher will take no responsibility for errors or omissions. Where prices or dates are quoted they are correct at the time of publication and are
the website. Observação: os números de telefone presentes nesta publicação podem estar sujeitos a cobranças: números que começam por 2 chamada para rede fixa nacional e números começados por 9 chamada para rede móvel nacional.
An exclusive Tomorrow interview with A Place in the Sun’s
Laura Hamilton
Our contributor Vaughan Willmore reveals how there’s far more to Laura Hamilton than being a high-profile television presenter and her personal connection to Portugal.
WORDS Vaughan Willmore
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Sunday roasts
Prices have certainly risen in Portugal, but when I compare them to the UK, I still think they offer great value, especially when you consider the quality of life you can have in places such as the Algarve.
- Laura Hamilton
With her warm and engaging personality, Laura Hamilton has become a household name. While many of us know her as a presenter on the popular Channel 4 show A Place in the Sun and more recently, ITV’s This Morning, Laura is also a successful businesswoman, entrepreneur, property and travel expert, podcaster, and loving mum.
Born in Surrey in 1982, Laura was a high achiever at school and developed a passion for the performing arts. After gaining A-levels at Dartford Grammar School for Girls, she turned down an offer to study law and psychology at university for a one-year contract at Channel 4 as a runner for the presenter Dermot O’Leary. Laura left Channel 4 after her contract ended and worked as an assistant floor manager on productions including Top of the Pops, which helped develop her knowledge of the television industry.
Laura’s first big break came as a presenter on Nickelodeon’s children’s television channel, where she quickly became a familiar face to young audiences. Laura’s talents led to her fronting a variety of shows before eventually progressing to even more high-profile projects. What many wouldn’t have realised is that while she was progressing her career in television, Laura was also investing in the property market, buying her first property at just 19 years of age. Transforming tired properties into beautiful homes, Laura quickly honed her skills and developed a passion for property.
Indeed, one of the most striking aspects of meeting Laura is her passion and how she’s exactly the same as you see on television –engaging, optimistic and possessing a ‘can do’ attitude. I asked her whether her outlook on life is a family trait or something that’s just inherent to who she is. “I love life,” said Laura. “I believe we’re here to experience everything life has to offer and especially for creating special moments for yourself and those you care for. We’re only here once and we need to make the most of it. If I don’t know how to do something, I don’t see that as a problem, it’s more an opportunity to learn, and I enjoy a challenge.”
In 2011, Laura took on a notable challenge by competing in ITV’s Dancing on Ice, where her skating skills, determination and personality won her second place. The show not only broadened her fanbase but also cemented her position as a prominent TV personality. A year later, she secured a role as a presenter of the ever-popular A Place in the Sun. As someone who loves to travel and loves property, it was the ideal role.
Twelve years on, and Laura continues to present the programme. She told me how she still keeps in touch with many of the people she helped to find their dream homes and how visiting Portugal has a special meaning to her. “My first overseas holiday without my parents was to Portugal,” said Laura. “I was a teenager, and I went with my boyfriend and his parents to their villa in Vilamoura. It was from that holiday in Portugal that my love of travel was born.”
Laura has now renovated 19 properties and just two months ago purchased her first property outside of the UK. She’s project managing the renovation herself and will be sharing her experiences on her website www. myrenovationinthesun.com. I asked Laura what she thought about the property market in Portugal. “Prices have certainly risen but when I compare them to the UK, I still think they offer great value, especially when you consider the quality of life you can have in places such as the Algarve. Also, with things like remote working and the flexibility that allows, there’s every chance it will become even more popular.”
Laura’s entrepreneurial spirit extends way beyond television and property. In 2017, she took on a new challenge by purchasing and transforming a local post office in Surrey into a bustling coffee shop called Lord Roberts on The Green. The shop has since become an integral part of the community, serving not solely as a coffee shop but also as a popular meeting place for local residents. The social aspect of this venture is important to Laura, who is committed to supporting numerous good causes. As an ambassador for Well Child, she’s using her fame to raise awareness and funds for children with disabilities and life-limiting conditions.
Earlier this year, Laura embarked on yet another exciting venture when she launched her first podcast, The Mile Fly Club. Laura said, “I think of it as a VIP lane to first-class travel tips, tell-all talk and turbulent life tales. It’s like the mile-high club only with more clothes! As well as featuring some never-before-heard stories about my own travels, I’m also hoping to offer some great take-home travel tips
and advice.” Future guests include Bradley Walsh and the podcast can be accessed via all the main platforms, including Spotify and YouTube.
Laura is active on all the main social media channels and has nearly 30,000 followers on Facebook and an incredible 210,000 on Instagram. It’s her new website (www.laurahamiltonofficial.com) that she’s most excited about, however, where she is creating a lifestyle, travel and business-orientated community. It’s on there that Laura is sharing exclusive comments with her subscribers that are not available on her other platforms. As for any future visits to Portugal on behalf of A Place in the Sun, she told me she’s looking forward to returning and “it could happen any time” as presenters only receive a month’s notice regarding assignments.
Laura’s journey from children’s TV presenter to property expert and entrepreneur is a testament to her versatility, professionalism and passion for what she does. Her ability to balance multiple projects, grasp new opportunities, and be a loving mother to two young children, makes her a role model for aspiring entrepreneurs and indeed anyone keen to make the most of what life has to offer.
You can keep up to date with Laura’s adventures at www.laurahamiltonofficial.com and by visiting www.myrenovationinthesun.com and www.facebook.com/Laurahamiltonofficial.
The Eurovision
Ninja Star
From a pop rock band to Eurovision, TV presenting, politics, a cookbook and now Algarve real estate, Katrin Siska’s life story is as full of key changes, pyrotechnics and glamour as a Eurovision song entry. Sophie Sadler met the glamorous Estonian to find out more about her journey.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
Katrin is the only person I have interviewed over a morning coffee to arrive with a bottle of sparkling wine as a gift. I obviously like her instantly! Maybe her need to make big gestures derives from the fact that she hails from one of the smallest countries in the world – Estonia. Siska was born in Estonia’s capital city Tallinn: “I collected photos of famous actors, athletes, supermodels and singers, and wished to become one myself.”
Katrin was a member of a school choir and started playing the piano when she was seven years old. While she was in high school, she met Piret Järvis, a fellow musician. In 2002, they started a pop rock band in school, wearing torn jeans and metal chains that they bought from a pet shop!
The duo heard that the Estonian music producer Sven Lõhmus was looking to create a girl group. The plucky girls met with him to audition, and, although he was looking for a dance style, they persuaded him to go for pop-rock. “We wanted to have attitude, and wear torn clothes and sneakers,” laughs Katrin. Sven put them together with two other girls, Maarja Kivi and Lenna Kuurmaa, who had been friends in a different high school.
Sven was, and still is, one of the best songwriters and music producers in Estonia. He wrote the hit songs that would propel them to stardom. In 2003, the group participated in the Estonian Eurovision Song Contest preselection Eurolaul. Performing the song ‘Club Kung Fu’, the group proved to
be by far the most popular in the phone polls, but, unlike other countries, Estonia used a jury to decide the song for Eurovision instead of the televote. The jury, which included figures such as Michael Ball, did not share the televoters’ enthusiasm and placed the girls joint bottom of the ten entrants. However, the TV show made the girls famous overnight in their home country and the popularity of the song created a buzz before the release of their debut album. Vanilla Ninja was released in May of that same year, featuring the original version of the song ‘Club Kung Fu’, along with a drum and bass remix, and 13 new pop-rock tracks in English and Estonian. The album proved to be a success in Estonia and launched the girls into the national mainstream.
Vanilla Ninja toured Estonia that summer, however they had greater ambitions. They turned their eyes to Europe and employed a new international manager who introduced them to a talented German songwriter and music producer, David Brandes. With this new management, the girls moved to Germany, where they produced several albums. A promo tour to Germany, Switzerland, Poland, Austria and Japan followed. They made history as the first band to break through outside of Estonia.
Despite their rising popularity in Switzerland, no one expected the shock announcement that Vanilla Ninja would represent the country in the 2005 Eurovision Song Contest. This decision by the Swiss selectors was met with backlash from some, who believed the group should represent their home countries instead. The Swiss selectors had been scarred by a number of bad results and nil pointes and were hopeful that this internationally renowned girl band could bring a turn-around of their fortunes. The song ‘Cool Vibes’ was written by David Brandes, who, although living in Germany, was Swiss. The controversy was further fueled by the replacement of member Maarja Kivi, who was pregnant, with Triinu Kivilaan, who was only 15 years old at the time.
From left to right: Katrin Siska, Piret Järvis, Lenna Kuurmaa and Triinu Kivilaan
Doubts were raised about Kivilaan’s eligibility due to age restrictions, jeopardising Vanilla Ninja’s contest participation. However, the Swiss selectors decided to stand by the group, as Kivilaan would turn 16 before the contest, allowing them to compete. Despite the controversy surrounding their selection, Vanilla Ninja was a huge success, coming 8th in Kyiv and making waves both on and off the stage. “All of Estonia voted for us,” says Katrin proudly.
Katrin has many happy memories of her years of musical fame. The group travelled to glamorous locations to film music videos, and one in Mallorca stuck in her mind when they had to ride horses on the beach. “We had to stay on a farm for two weeks to learn to ride. Our teacher was Bryce from Texas, who wore a big cowboy hat. After intensive training on the saddle all day, we couldn’t sit down and the horse camp smelled so strongly of horse poop that we could hardly smell anything else! Finally, when we went to the beach to film, we discovered that the beautiful white horses were not used to sand, so one reared and Piret fell off. Luckily, she fell on her tailbone without any serious injury.”
When they introduced their album in Japan in 2004, Katrin remembers that people on the street already recognised them as four tall blond girls who really stood out in Tokyo. She remembers they ate sushi for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and after that, she couldn’t eat it again for 10 years. She also laughs, remembering their Japanese tour manager who drank one beer and was so drunk he couldn’t walk, while the girls who were used to Estonian vodka were downing sake with no side effects!
During their time in the media spotlight in Germany, they performed on the prime-time Stefan Raab Show. “Stefan
was very cool and funny,” remembers Katrin. “After the show, he invited us to perform at a party he used to throw at a ski resort. As a result, we were invited to try the bobsleigh course. We were rushing down at 100km/h, and my elbow was a bit out of the sleigh. On one of the curves, I hit it hard against the ice when the sleigh spiralled in the ice tunnel. I was lucky that no serious damage was done. But, it was a crazy experience that I will never forget.”
These high-profile appearances opened many doors for them, and they parted ways with David to sign with EMI, which also had Robbie Williams on its label. At the height of their fame, there were even Vanilla Ninja Barbie dolls. In their native Estonia, they still have ice creams named after them with their faces on the packaging. After moving back to Estonia from Germany in 2006, the band still gave concerts around the world.
In 2009, they performed their biggest gig at the Viña del Mar International Song Festival in Chile. The show was aired all over Latin America, and they won the prize for Best Artist. During their time touring, they also shared a stage with Lenny Kravitz, Pink, Enrique Iglesias, Gwen Stefani and many more.
Katrin remembers, “It was amazing how down-to-earth these artists were. We were starstruck, but they were so warm and welcoming. I particularly remember Pink and Enrique Iglesias, who talked to us like they were friends. I remain a big fan of theirs. And Lenny Kravitz once approached us backstage, entered our dressing room and chatted with us like a bestie. He was super hot and sexy (we melted under his eyes!).”
But then came the economic crash, and with much of their success built on tours and festivals, bookings dried up, so the girls returned home. “At this stage, we were the most famous and successful group in Estonia, but no one could afford to book us.”
Their deal with EMI also didn’t elevate them in the way they had hoped. They had a suspicion all the label’s resources were being driven to Robbie Williams at that time. In 2010, the girls decided to take a break from the band. Katrin went to university and graduated in law. She is fluent in Estonian, Russian, English, German and Finnish.
Katrin then worked as a TV host and music producer and had an interior design TV show. She was also a keen yogi and interested in health before she took the unlikely course of going into politics. She explains, “As a celebrity, I knew a lot of people and as I loved yoga, I wanted to start the first yoga centre in Tallinn, so I approached the mayor and one of the most powerful and legendary Estonian politicians of all time, Edgar Savisaar. He must have been impressed with my persuasive skills because, instead of granting me permission for a yoga centre, he asked me to work for him.”
In this new role, Karin organised big music events all over Estonia, before it was suggested that she might secure votes as a political candidate. In August 2009, Siska joined the Estonian Centre Party and became an elected politician. With this elevated status, she applied to be the director of a big cultural centre and got the job in 2010, tripling its revenue. “When I worked as a director of the cultural centre, it was the biggest challenge of my life. I had to manage 20 employees despite being the youngest of them all. But we ended up all as great colleagues and good friends.”
Her personal life was also in a good place. She met her partner Kristjan in 2007 when Vanilla Ninja was touring. He joined them at many of the concerts backstage to party together afterwards. They welcomed their son Alexander in 2013 and Katya left the cultural centre after three years in that role.
Katrin has always been interested in healthy eating and wellness, so she started planning a book with her tips on how to lose baby kilos. In 2017, she published Joy from Food, a guide to healthy eating with menu plans. “This book was born out of my great passion for cooking and photography. I
Katrin, Kristjan and Alexander
prepared all the meals myself in my home kitchen and took the pictures on our family’s surfboards.”
While her son was still young, she and Kristjan, a businessman, started travelling together. They visited Portugal many times before they decided to put down roots here. “I’m amazed at how beautiful the Algarve and Portugal are. I am so happy to discover nature and meet friends. I love the stories of the people here. And I love the international feel of the community. It is so different from Estonia and very interesting. Wherever I go, I’m always thinking ‘wow!’
The Algarve has everything you need.”
In 2021, Katrin made a comeback with Vanilla Ninja. They filmed several new music videos in Berlin and Tallinn for the new album and released a book and several singles. But a year later, Katrin and Triinu decided to leave the band. With Katrin living in Portugal and Triinu in Switzerland, along with the other two girls in Estonia, the logistics were too complicated. Katrin decided that after years of being in a girl band, she wanted to spend her weekends with her new band – her family. She tells me that while all her former bandmates are very different, they still get on well and remain friends.
Katrin is now using her charm, model good looks and joie de vive to sell properties in the Algarve. After living some time in Alvor, she moved with her family to Lagos and decided to dive into the real estate business in the Algarve. She joined Villas Key in Lagos. “I am truly happy with my career as a real estate agent here in the all-year-sunny paradise Algarve.”
So, for now, Katrin is saying ‘thank you for the music’ and bowing out of the limelight, but she would like to write a new book about the Algarve. She also just got engaged to Kristjan this summer after 17 years together. And with her dazzling smile and ’cool vibes’, there is no doubt she will continue to be a ‘ninja’ in everything she does in the future.
katrinsiska.com
PattY
at the Plaza
From Playboy Swings to Tea under the Palms - the fascinating history of New York´s Plaza Hotel told by Patty Farmer a historian, best-selling author, businesswoman and former model. She talks to Sophie Sadler at her home in Lagos.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
I met Patty in her elegant new apartment overlooking the marina, which has what must be one of the best views in Lagos. Both she and the interior decor are elegant and chic! I am therefore not surprised to learn that her background is in worldwide real estate and venture capital, and she is obviously good at picking out prime property. However, I am not here to discuss property; I am here to discuss her new book, Tea Under the Palms.
I am surprised that an American is writing about tea. Surely, this is a subject most suited to a British author. But it turns out that the Americans are now embracing the tea ritual as much as the Brits but, of course, in a more sophisticated manner than the ‘fancy a brew’ tradition. According to Patty, tea rooms are springing up all over American and European cities, and the tea ritual is becoming more chic.
Patty has been fascinated with the glamour, magic and history of New York City’s quintessential Plaza Hotel ever since the day her mother introduced her to the ritual of afternoon tea at the hotel’s Palm Court when she was just seven years old. Palm Court is the Plaza Hotel’s iconic, swanky venue for high-end breakfast and afternoon tea. A few years and a large property portfolio later, and Patty is living in the Plaza. I asked how she managed that. “I had my chequebook with me,” she laughs.
For those who don’t know, the glamorous Plaza Hotel was the inspiration for the book, and later, the 2003 television movie Eloise at the Plaza. A destination hotel, only a few of its select units are sold as luxury condo residences. Patty says she turned up at the right time and, although there was a waiting list, she managed to bag one by putting down a deposit then and there! As a hotel resident, Patty saw films like Bride Wars (2009) being shot, which got her thinking about all the movies filmed there through the decades and the history of this landmark building.
However, it was only when the financial crisis of 2007 brought a steep decline in the property market that Patty was able to explore her curiosity. It was during this time, when no one was doing any real estate business, that she started on a journey that was to take her into writing.
“I do not do well with time on my hands. I was living at the Plaza and knew it had this rich history – its ‘Persian Room’ nightclub, located in the Plaza from 1934–1977, attracted many famous stars. I went to the concierge and asked to look through the archives, but they said there were none. The Hilton owned the building along with Zsa Zsa Gabor and then Donald Trump. They took all the memorabilia when they left, so all this rich history was lost. The history of the club intrigued me enough to research and chronicle its history.”
Patty put together a research team for her own personal interest. “I wanted to find out the whos, whats, whens and whys. I knew I could only do this by talking to people who had been there in its heyday. Growing up, I was always around society and celebrities, and I had friends in that world, so I started asking people, ‘Do you know Jack Jones? Do you know Tony Bennett? Can you get me an invitation?’ It worked. So I had all these great interviews on tape and transcribed, and I was lucky. Someone recommended an agent, and they were able to sell my first book.”
Playboy Swings was a best seller and focused on the musical entertainment of the Playboy Clubs. “ I think my niche is the personal interview—I did 300 interviews for this book.”
I find it strange for a strong businesswoman to celebrate the Playboy brand, but I did not know that putting aside the bunny girls, Hugh Hefner left behind a positive legacy, including his devotion to music and colourblind entertainment. “Playboy Swings, with the subtitle: How Hugh Hefner Changed the Face of Music, is a double entendre because he not only shone the spotlight on jazz, but he is also widely credited for integrating his stages,” Patty tells me. At this time, America was still a segregated country, but Hefner disregarded that and was only interested in who was the best musician, comic, singer, regardless of race.
Radio host Bob Porter reviewed the book, writing “One might not immediately think of Hugh Hefner as an important contributor to the jazz scene of the 1950s and early 1960s, but he was all of that and more. The magazines, the TV shows, the Jazz festival and the Playboy Clubs were important components in the production of jazz artists. Playboy and its associated enterprises brought the music to people who might otherwise not be aware of it. All this is neatly documented by Patty Farmer.”
People hear the name Playboy and they think it is all about centrefolds, however Patty wrote about the music, detailing all the legends that played at the Playboy club, including Paul Anker, Patty Austen, Aretha Franklin and The Beatles. And from those who had passed away, Patty learned their stories from authentic sources. “Because of my background as a business person, I always had a terrific team that ensured authenticity, and I think that is how I got my reputation. The people I interviewed and journalists [I talked to] knew I was not going to do a hatchet piece. My accuracy was spot on and that’s how I built my reputation.”
Because of the accuracy, success and writing style of Playboy Swings, and later Playboy Laughs, the company asked Patty to write for Playboy magazine from 2015 to when the company changed their format and ended the monthly magazine. (It’s now a quarterly online publication.) She says she fell into writing as it was fun. And with a list of interviewees like she can boast, who wouldn’t have fun? Barbara Streisand, Paul McCartney, Al Jarreau, Patti Page, Diahann Carroll, Polly Bergen, Kaye Ballard, Shecky Greene, Trinidad Lopez and Lily Tomlin to name but a few. However, not all eggs were easy to crack. She spent a lot of time interviewing Joan Rivers. “She was very no-nonsense; she didn’t sit and tell jokes. She is there to get the job done and, at one point, I thought she was interviewing me. She told me, ‘I hope you have done your homework; you know I wasn’t hatched as a headliner.’ I was able to reply that I was familiar with her initial career in a trio. I think she was impressed by my research and it broke the ice.”
Excerpt from Playboy Swings:
One of the earliest artists that Victor (Lownes) hired for the Chicago Playboy Club was Aretha Franklin. “We were her first big engagement,” says Victor. “Later on, she concentrated on singing, but in 1960, she both sang and played piano. Keith (Hefner) was the room director, and he suggested we fire her because he didn’t think she was any good. I liked both her singing and playing and said, ‘No, we’re keeping her.’” To be fair to Keith, this young woman’s destiny wasn’t clearly written yet in 1960, she only turned eighteen in March of that year, and it would have been impossible to predict so early that she would later fuse jazz and gospel music and create soul music in the process.
Victor feels as if he got the last laugh in this instance, “Of course, she became a big star. Occasionally, I have fun reminding Keith of his suggestion.”
Patty With Hugh Hefner
Lainie Kazan, Connie Stevens and Michele Lee
Patty with Marilyn Maye and famous jazz singer Jon Hendricks
Singer and actress Leslie Uggams with Patty Broadway Star Tommy Tune
Patty also interviewed Tony Bennett, and he became a good friend. At his 90th birthday party, she met Paul McCartney. Stevie Wonder was also in attendance. “If you get an invite like that, everyone just assumes you belong, so it’s a dream for someone who loves the entertainment world like I do.”
Mitzi Gaynor, Hollywood legend, superstar, actress and singer, wrote the foreword for her book, Starring the Plaza, released in 2017. “The building was built in 1907, and the book describes all the movies, events, premieres, and stories from the plaza in a beautiful glossy book full of pictures.”
After years of researching and chronicling various aspects of the Plaza, the management asked Patty to write a book about the history of tea so that, when asked by guests, they could direct people to a fun historical accounting of the tea tradition. They also sell the book in their boutique. “The universe was calling,” she tells me.
Before tea became the public property of the working class, it was the preserve of royalty. As Patty explains in the book, the Portuguese Princess Catherine de Braganza brought tea to her husband, Charles II, as part of her dowry. He used it to pay off the national debt, but his queen introduced tea to her British husband and, consequently, the whole of Britain.
Patty says that the elegant ritual of taking tea is having a revival and that many business people in New York are using tea as an icebreaker in their meetings. “The millennials have discovered it and might go to a tea room now rather than a bar!” Patty believes that in a crazy world, tea and “pulling out your Sunday manners” is a good antidote in a hectic world. Tea Under the Palms is printed in a compact size, making it popular to give as a favour or in gift bags.
Patty´s next book will be a more Anglo-centric exploration of tea culture, which will include a delve into Agatha Christie and tea. Patty explains, “Agatha Christie is one of the best-selling authors of all time. Only Shakespeare and the Bible have beaten her. Every single one of her novels, short stories and plays
have tea in it. Clues are discovered while Miss Marple has afternoon tea or Poirot reveals the murderer over a pot of tea. It’s a fascinating paradigm.”
Patty originally came to Portugal looking for a business investment but fell in love with the Algarve and decided to make it her home permanently. Now that she is winding down her business affairs, she is turning more and more to writing and can envisage a time when she can sit in Portugal and only be occupied with her word processor.
She has made many friends, takes Portuguese lessons three times a week, and has become very involved in the community. She actively supports the local dog shelter Cadela Carlota, and has become the proud dog mom of Marina. Patty calls Marina the Lagos Canine Goodwill Ambassador and she has become quite a star due to regular posts on Patty´s Instagram @patty_does_portugal. “Marina brings happiness and love to visitors and neighbours throughout the Algarve, and wherever she and I go, people just love getting their pictures taken with her,” Patty tells me.
It’s difficult to sum Patty up in a closing paragraph. She intrigued me. She is a best-selling American female author, Hollywood historian, and businesswoman who has been drawn to the Algarve despite it being the polar opposite of where she came from. Despite coming from a notoriously cut-throat world, she exudes warmth and friendliness, which makes it easy to see why so many stars have opened up to her. She just needs to watch out for one thing here – that she doesn’t get overshadowed by her dog!
“Tea, and afternoon tea in particular, is a small pleasure but an unparalleled one,”declares author and culture maven Patty Farmer. “Wars have been waged, royal marriages arranged, companies formed, and world problems solved over a perfect cup of tea.
It’s neither inebriating, expensive, nor fattening, and yet there’s nothing quite so effective for regaining one’s equilibrium and perspective—or simply relaxing.”
Marina
Patty with celebrated TV_FILM actor Alan Alda, best known for his starring role in the long-running hit MASH.
Tony Bennett birthday party
Patty and Ben V.
Houses of the People
Casas do Povo have been a fabric of community life for nearly 100 years, transforming from state-controlled institutions to what exists today: vibrant community centres. Our contributor, Vaughan Willmore, went to learn more about the ‘Houses of the People’.
WORDS Vaughan Willmore
Casas do Povo have long played an essential role in Portugal’s social, cultural and economic well-being. They were founded in 1933 under the rule of António de Oliveira Salazar, whose government recognised the lack of effective organisation and support for agricultural workers and small farmers.
State-funded, the houses were established in the more rural parts of the country, typically in small towns and villages. They provided essential services such as health and social care, and even insurance for those who were unable to work due to poor health. In many respects, they were rural health centres – by 1960, approximately 90% of them had their own medical services. They also provided opportunities for workers and their families to socialise and participate in state-organised activities.
However, there was another side to the houses: they allowed the government to exercise some oversight of their activities and of the people who used them. This was partly due to them also being used for the administration of labour relations,
with an emphasis on preventing the rise of perceived socialist or anarchist unions, which were viewed as threats to the government.
As with many aspects of Portuguese life, things changed significantly following the revolution of 1974. No longer instruments of government control, they were handed over to local communities. In many regions, they were reinvented as independent associations run by the people, for the people. They adapted to meet the specific needs of their local populations, focusing on cultural activities, social services and community wellbeing.
Today, every Casa do Povo is unique and is shaped by the character and needs of the community it serves. In Olhão, for example, the Casa do Povo is located on the outskirts of the city in the village of Moncarapacho. Led by president Joaquim Fernandes, it has undergone a dramatic transformation in recent years with the old building being restored and modernised. It hosts a range of services for young and old alike, including
a library. Language lessons, Pilates classes, book launches, cultural exhibitions, along with support and advice to elderly and/or disadvantaged residents, are all provided by the People’s House of the Municipality of Olhão. It’s a great meeting place, too, for social and business-related activities. As the president, Senhor Fernandes said, “Houses such as this are the key to community life, caring for the needy, and preserving and celebrating local culture.”
Many houses promote sports and recreation, providing facilities for local football teams, gymnasiums and other recreational activities. In Madeira, the Casa do Povo is heavily involved in fostering youth football programmes, helping to develop regional talent and encouraging participation in sports. Other houses offer nurseries for young children and infant schools, along with after-school clubs to support working parents.
As the centenary of their establishment approaches, there’s every likelihood these ‘houses of the people’ will become even more important, especially in regions experiencing depopulation and economic decline. That said, along with many long-standing institutions, they face challenges and not least with their running costs. There are many ways we can help, including using the many services they offer and utilising their meeting rooms for business meetings, parties and other celebrations. Fundraising activities are also greatly appreciated.
The history of the Casas do Povo is deeply intertwined with Portugal’s rural heritage and the changing tides of its political landscape. They’re also testament to the resilience and the community spirit of the Portuguese people. With our support, they will continue to be houses of the people.
The Watermill Museum of Monchique
Moinho de Água do Poucochinho
WORDS Julian Putley
Portugal is a country which is very proud of its past. In the Algarve, many towns and villages hold festivals, celebrations and cultural events exhibiting the region’s history.
When I learned of a unique Monchique museum, I made arrangements for a visit and the president of the Junta de Freguesia de Monchique José Gonçalo agreed to meet us for a detailed explanation and guided tour.
Senhor Gonçalo began by explaining how Monchique got its name and the Roman influence on the mountain. Mon means mountain and chique is a derivation of cicus or circle. Monchique was one of the four important mountain ranges of the region known as Andalusia, which historically included Portugal.
The Moinho de Água do Poucochinho watermill is named for the family that owned and operated it. The structure is an excellent example of intelligent design. The wheel or driver for the mill is at water level, while the grinding mechanism is above on the next level adjacent to the living quarters.
Our tour started with the living quarters, where we saw the family room, living and sleeping areas, and the kitchen. An essential feature of the kitchen was its skirt chimney; its base was usually the width of the entire kitchen. It was in
this place that the family spent a lot of time. It served as a heating stove, kitchen stove and even a smoker to “cure” the sausages. The sausage was a mainstay of the Portuguese diet in the interior and mountainous regions, and many varieties, including the blood sausage, are still popular today.
The mill was in the next room. A vertical shaft from the water wheel below operated the mill. It had a vertical controlling bar or brake leading down to the level below that could stop the rotating wheel if necessary. There was also a clever noise maker that would warn the miller if the rotation was too fast. The mill consisted of a large, heavy circular stone made from nepheline, a very hard rock, fortunately available not far away. This stone had a hole in the middle –the eye. It would rotate atop a stationary stone underneath.
Photo courtesy of jf-monchique.pt
Photo courtesy of jf-monchique.pt
Caldas de Monchique is very close to the Moinho de Água. With origins going back to Roman times, this village, which was built around Portugal’s famous thermal springs, is definitely worth a visit.
With a pH of 9.5, Monchique water is the most alkaline in Portugal. Rich in bicarbonate, sodium and fluoride, it has been recommended for many ailments, including respiratory tract problems and musculoskeletal disorders like arthritis. Captured at a depth of around 900 metres, it leaves the catchment at 32˚ C all year round, regardless of the outside temperature. The depth of the aquifer gives it physicalchemical stability and makes it immune from external influences from the earth’s surface. There is a bottling plant here, and Monchique water is available in retail outlets throughout Portugal.
The grain, either wheat or maize (corn), was fed into the hole by a chute and the ground flour was collected in a tray at the base of the mill. Finally, the flour was sifted before being bagged. Currency was not always available amongst the local population in the early 1900s, so trade by bartering was common.
We went down to the ground level to see the water wheel and the mechanism that drives it. The wheel is horizontal and rotates due to water pressure on the paddles. This causes the shaft (spindle) to rotate, which drives the millstone on the upper level. The brake, operated from a handle on the upper level, can stop the wheel, and the speed of rotation can be regulated by more or less pressure on the paddles.
Next, we explored the grounds where the miller’s family had a vegetable garden. Now it’s a picnic area with stone tables and benches under the shade of lofty green trees. Some of these trees were bearing edible fruit and nuts. There were a couple of prolific castanha trees (the Portuguese chestnut), a walnut tree and some citrus, among others.
Further along and up the hill, we saw the Ribeira da Tinta Negra, the river which supplied the watermill. It had a fork with a solid gate to divert the river from one stream to the other depending on the volume and velocity of flow.
The whole operation was very much a family affair. In 1938, there were 25 water mills in operation in the municipality, but by the mid-1980s, only two remained, and they were operated by diesel engines. In 2008, the family decided to sell the property, and the Monchique council was keen to acquire it to preserve this important aspect of Monchique’s, and indeed Portugal’s, history.
Please note that the facility is only open on request José Gonçalo (+351) 282 912 871 or (+ 351) 925 130 231 www jf-monchique.pt
Photo courtesy of jf-monchique.pt
Photo courtesy of jf-monchique.pt
LIVE MUSIC WATER SPORTS FRESH DAILY FISH SUNBEDS
LOCATION
Meia Praia, 8600-315 Lagos Algarve GPS: 37º 5’ 50” N . 8º 39’ 47” W
Cosy 2 Bedroom Apartment Within Walking Distance to the town centre
399,000 € | Ref.: A426
This lovely two bedroom apartment, is situated just a couple of minutes’ walk from the city centre and with all the amenities at your doorstep. It features a massive L shape terrace that covers the entire property with views towards the sea, old town and city wall. This property has access to the communal swimming pool and also has an allocated parking space in the communal underground garage.
In my experience, it’s often the quiet and humble who have a story that surpasses your expectations. Nuno Figueiredo is just that.
WORDS Nirali Shah-Jackson
PHOTOGRAPHY Nuno Figueiredo
While we sat on the porch overlooking his agricultural land to the west of Lagos, his wife cooked us a delicious meal inside, and Nuno slowly and methodically described to me what can only be expressed as a life less ordinary. As an experienced cinematographer, he was naturally skilled at storytelling.
Brought up in Porto Santo, an island that is just 11 by 6 km and some 65 km from Madeira, Porto Santo is often referred to as the ‘Golden Island’ for its stunning 9 km beach. With around 5,000 inhabitants presently, you can only imagine the sense of freedom his family felt some 46 years ago when his parents left Lisboa to live there. Full of fresh air, beautiful beaches and unspoilt countryside, the island presented the opportunity for an ideal childhood. Away from city distractions, Nuno was able to explore his artistic side. He still returns to Porto Santo regularly to visit his mother, and the island remains a magical place in his heart.
Nuno explains that his uncle, Rodrigo Figueiredo, was the reason he became interested in photography. Rodrigo was a photojournalist for Diário de Notícias, a well-known daily newspaper in Portugal. He would visit now and again from Lisbon, bringing with him an air of excitement and an artistic soul which his nephews found contagious.
With his rebellious nature and defiance of the authoritarian rule during the Salazar dictatorial regime, Rodrigo printed one of his controversial photographs of police beating up civilians during this politically tumultuous time. The editor of Díario had not given permission and Rodrigo was subsequently fired, and the edition pulled from circulation. This incident drove his uncle to drink, and he never returned to photojournalism. But, on his island visits, Rodrigo taught Nuno’s brother, who is five years older, all about photography.
Eventually, his brother ran the photography lab for the secondary school he attended in his teens, while Nuno often had his Nikon film camera around his neck, waiting to capture what he describes as the “small details within the bigger picture”.
When Nuno was 15, he had a lucky break when he was introduced to the RTP Madeira team (Portugal´s public broadcasting organisation). After chatting a little with them one day, an idea came up that would change the course of his life. To save the RTP Madeira crew constantly flying back and forth to Porto Santo, they would employ Nuno to film and take pictures, send the footage off to Madeira by air, and pay for his efforts. So, they flew him to Madeira for a two-day intensive course.
Urb. da Marateca Lote 5, Chinicato, Lagos
His assignments included regularly visiting and filming or photographing the island football matches. He was also sent scripts to give to interviewees, which he would film, and then send the tape back to Madeira, where they would include it in the news footage for RTP.
At 18, Nuno moved to Lisbon to study geological engineering at university, but he never finished the course. He enjoyed the city life Lisbon had to offer in the late 90s, so he stayed in the city working in a computer store. However, after Expo 98, a school called Restart opened in the newly developed area, offering a one-year course in camera and lighting for cinema and TV. He signed up!
As luck would have it, on the first day, he met another student, Bruno Grilo, now a well-known Portuguese director of photography. Bruno and Nuno bonded at the get-go and were so talented that they were often taken away by film directors, who were also their tutors, to do little assignments while on the course. This gave them confidence and industry experience. Bruno, being the more social and feistier one, secured a job with RTP in a TV show called PICA and when he introduced his friend to the team, Nuno was also hired. His freelancing cinematography days had begun!
Along with shooting Portuguese music videos, Nuno became involved in major documentary series for RTP
and SIC from then on. His first major series, a five-year assignment, was filmed in a format similar to the Jamie Oliver cooking shows and featured a Portuguese chef, Henrique Sá Pessoa, who is now a two-star Michelin chef.
More exciting assignments were to follow. Nuno went with Henrique to Honningsvåg in Norway to document the lives of cod fishermen near the Arctic. He recalls that his makeup artist’s face ‘burnt’ from the cold, going black from the wind chill while they were at a trout farm in the fjords in an open boat. The crew were warned that if they fell in, even though they had orange protective suits, they’d die within 10 minutes.
In 2012, he directed a film with an Italian friend, Andrea Ragusa, called Benfica-Torino, which he tells me had the highest audience figures ever at the Portuguese Italian Film Festival (festadocinemaitaliano.com). This documentary portrayed the tragic true story of an Italian football team that travelled to play a friendly match against Benfica in 1949. Tragically, on the way back home to Italy, the plane carrying the entire team crashed a few kilometres from Turin airport. None of them survived.
In 2016, he started filming a Portuguese version of Top Gear, called Volante, with SIC, and later GTI for TV1, another
Portuguese TV channel. Here, he had the opportunity to film in Transylvania, where the second-highest tarmacked road in the country meanders around the mountain and is a road to reckon with. The ‘death’ bends make it an ideal place to showcase the engineering of ridiculously fast cars like Lamborghini and BMW, which were filming there at the same time.
From July 2018, Nuno worked on the natural documentary series Á Descoberta com. During this time, Nuno travelled to Thailand, Colombia, the Azores and Madeira, and he has many amazing stories to share.
In Colombia, the crew filmed in the Choco region called Utria, in a national park where whales go to give birth to their calves. Unfortunately, nature doesn’t perform for documentaries, and the crew didn’t experience any whales giving birth. Instead, they had an ‘Avatar’ moment when they were all in solo canoes paddling through the mangroves in the pitch black, when suddenly beneath them, the water burst into a magical explosion of green phosphorescence.
After the high of that experience, they visited the Jagua community, part of the Embera tribe, to record a tribal purification ritual! That night, the crew were all awakened by what they could only describe as the sound of someone being tortured to death. The terrifying noise echoed all around them in the early hours of the morning. They didn’t dare to move. After a long and sleepless night, they were reassured by the chief of the tribe during breakfast the next morning. He explained that it was an exorcism and that it was perfectly normal!
Another stand-out moment was at Baixa do Ambrósio, which attracts dozens of manta rays just off an Island called Santa Maria in the Azores archipelago. They were filming
an underwater mountain that resonates with an electric field that attracts the mantas as they migrate. While his colleague dived deep to film underwater, Nuno was snorkelling on the surface when one manta stopped to stare at him for what felt like a lifetime. This experience remains in his memory, as he was too mesmerised to react or take any photos.
While filming in the North of Thailand, the team documented the story of a lady called Lek who was rescuing mainly older elephants from being exploited in the tourist trade. Nuno described it as heartwarming to see the elephants almost cuddling her when she went into the park to greet them as if they knew that she was their saviour. Nuno’s stories were endless, but I hope I have captured their essence in this article.
In 2019, Nuno felt it was time to step away from his adventures and spend time with his Italian wife and two young boys, so he left the documentary team. But, I see a twinkle in Nuno’s eye, and he shares that he is thinking of ideas for the next project. Even though I am surrounded by the air of a settled family man, I can feel, under this humble and calm-natured individual, that feisty burning desire that his uncle helped conjure up all those years ago.
Nuno’s life less ordinary, is undoubtedly still unfolding.
Watch his space to keep abreast of his future work: @pankadas
For information on travelling to Utria and how you can donate to Lek’s elephant charity in Thailand. www.manocambiada.org www.elephantnaturepark.org/about-us/our-founder
To watch some of his documentaries, scan the QR codes:
"À Descoberta com... José Mata" na Colômbia Parte I - Episódio 8
"À Descoberta com... José Mata" na Colômbia Parte II - Episódio 10
"À Descoberta com... João Jesus" nos Açores Episódio 2
's Property and Knight Frank form new cobranded
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A Beatle Arrives in Praia da Luz
Hunter Davies relives the time Paul McCartney arrived to stay at his rental villa.
As a huge Beatles fan, I was very excited when the author of the only authorised biography of the legendary group agreed to appear on our podcast, Talk About Tomorrow
The phrase ‘they don’t make them like this any more’ instantly enters your mind when you meet Hunter. He is a force to be reckoned with: outrageous, witty, clever, fun, and with more energy at 88 than most people half his age. For the podcast, we met in his beautiful villa in Porto do Mós, which has stunning panoramic views of the ocean. Even this acquisition was made in his typically impulsive way. He climbed over the fence on the way back to the airport and decided to buy it without ever seeing inside.
During 1967 and 1968, Hunter spent eighteen months with the Beatles and had unique access to their lives, family and friends. You will have
to listen to the podcast for all the gossip on the Fab Four which he shared with us, but what most fascinated me was his story about staying in Praia da Luz in the 1960s when, out of the blue, Paul McCartney turned up in the middle of the night with his new girlfriend Linda and stayed in their spare room for three weeks.
I wanted Hunter to show me where this property is so I could visualise Paul and Linda there. So Hunter and his partner Miranda Amapola jumped into my car and we headed off. Incidentally, Miranda, a former model, has also written a memoir called. My Name is not Matilda, which included her adventure of sailing across the Atlantic in a trimaran she built with her then husband. She rolls her eyes as she tells me she lived a quiet life on the Isle of Wight before she met Hunter, “Now I am involved in all this madness,” she laughs.
Hunter and his wife Margaret Forster came to the Algarve in 1968 after a successful year at work. Hunter had finished The Beatles: The Authorised Biography, and Margaret had just had her second novel turned into a feature film. The copyright deals encouraged them to splash out on a year in Portugal with their two children and they fell in love with the Algarve.
The property they rented is now a condominium of four apartments located behind A Concha restaurant. Still, the original archway into the old property remains with a sign saying Apart Das Redes. Back in the 1960s, it was called Quinta das Redes, and the arch contained an enormous wooden gate. “Then it was just one larger property that looked like a farmhouse, which had been converted from an old sardine factory and had an open view onto the beach. It had a beautiful enclosed garden behind and it came with a housekeeper and a gardener who tended vegetables," Hunter told me.
We peer through the iron gates to what is now the pool area. A pool cleaner arrives and Hunter accosts him to tell the story of Paul’s arrival in November 1968. Slightly taken aback, the cleaner removes his ear-pods, admits he has heard of Paul McCartney and looks mildly interested.
“This is where Paul’s taxi pulled up at 2 am,” announces Hunter to his audience. “He had been to London and decided at the last minute to go on holiday and stay with us. But he didn’t tell us [beforehand] as in those days we had no phones. I remember it took a while to wake us, and the taxi driver got very impatient.” At the time, Paul had just met Linda and they arrived with Linda´s daughter Heather. Hunter told me in the podcast that he thinks Paul´s motivation was that he knew Hunter had a daughter of a similar age.
Looking through the iron grill and into the garden, Hunter explains how they sat outside and had a meal in the corner of the garden. He has a video of all three children climbing over Paul, who he says was amazing with kids and knew how to entertain them.
By the time Hunter and Margaret´s third child, Flora, was born in the mid-1970s, they’d bought a place on the cliffs above Porto de Mós, and the family came every summer. Flora is an artist and writes the Tomorrow Homes and Interiors column. Her elder sister, Caitlin Davies, is a novelist and her brother, Josh, is a barrister. Tragically, Margaret passed away in 2016.
I am so pleased and grateful that I got to record and be part of this amazing history. After all this excitement, we retire to a neighbouring cafe for lunch and a bottle of wine. We chat over lunch about Hunter´s next project. He has had a property in the Isle of Wight for many years but has now sold it to purchase a three-bedroom Dutch barge, which has been converted into a houseboat in St Helen´s harbour. And to prove that age is just a number, he will renovate it as a weekend pad for himself and Miranda. Although as he confesses, he may have to incorporate a chair lift to get onto the deck. The Sunday Times has commissioned him to write an article about this new adventure.
You can hear more about this and Paul´s time in the Algarve in the new episode of Talk About Tomorrow on Spotify, Apple Podcasts and YouTube.
WORDS Sophie Sadler
Padel for Pets
WORDS Konstanze Alex
October was a busy and rewarding month for animal charities in the Algarve. It was World Animal Day, and kids were back in school. However, resources are stretched thin during this month since many volunteers and donors were on well-earned vacations during the summer, meaning fewer food donations and a dip in monetary donations.
So, our volunteers stepped up and organised food drives with Banco Solidário Animal at Pingo Doce and Continente. They asked shoppers to consider donating dog or cat food and dropping it off with the volunteers on their way out. The shoppers came through in a big way. Thank you!
We are also proud to say that we combined forces with the Tenis e Padel Clube de Lagos this year to raise funds for a planned new cat shelter and food for the animals. It was a fantastic and very successful venture that combined many people’s passions for playing a sport and caring for animals in need. During the tournament, players could find out about Cadela Carlota’s work, meet the volunteers (some of whom also are players) and donate food or funds – all while having fun at the club. Another big thank you to the club and the players.
For more information about this charity, please listen to our podcast Talk About Tomorrow with Cadela Carlota on Spotify, Apply or YouTube or at tomorrowalgarve.com/podcasttalk-about-tomorrow
Lastly, in October, Cadela Carlota also visited the local schools to educate students about the welfare
A Vogue Wedding Dress Helps
of animals in our community. Everyone looks forward to the visits because it is the day when animals get to go into the classroom. What better way to begin the school year?
Without exception, teachers and students have prepared food donations for us to take home. It’s a win-win situation.
We thank the entire community for its ongoing support of animals in need. Please consider volunteering at our cat or dog shelter. Or donating to help secure a home for our cats.
Konstanze is the treasurer of Cadela Carlota
www.gofundme.com/f/a-new-home-a-secure-future
Algarve Animals
On Sunday, 29 September, the Nandi Charity hosted its third fashion show at Peiking II restaurant to raise much-needed money to help sick and abandoned animals in the Algarve. The fundraiser got a vital financial boost thanks to the kind donation of a visiting animal lover.
Lily Whitford decided to donate her wedding dress to Nandi. She recently married here in the Algarve, having won the dress from a top wedding boutique featured in Vogue magazine.
“I was extremely fortunate that I won the dress by entering a competition, and, with that in mind, I wanted someone else to benefit from my good luck. My parents live in Lagos, and my dad
regularly donates to Nandi. I have two dogs and am a professed animal lover.”
The organisers, helpers and models were all Nandi volunteers or friends of Nandi. Through ticket sales, a raffle and the sale of clothes, including those worn by the models, a total of €1955.50 was raised.
Please keep an eye out for Nandi´s spring event.
info@nandicharity.com www.nandiacharity.com
On arrival at Cadela Carlota five years ago, I was very ill, thin and full of tics. I am shy at first with people, but I love other dogs and walking on or off the leash. I would love to live in a proper home. I learn fast and I am obedient.
Contact Cadela Carlota to adopt Odi or any of Odi´s four-legged friends.
www.cadela-carlota.com/animals
TASTY
THURSDAYS
October & November 6pm - 9.30pm
3
OCTOBER
17
OCTOBER
31
OCTOBER
14
NOVEMBER
28
NOVEMBER
NEPALESE
Momos, Thali & Lassi
PERSIAN
Sharing Board, Kebabs, Stern Mess
CHINESE
Satay, Spring Rolls, Curries, Banana Fritters
VIETNAMESE
Rice Rolls, Salt & Pepper Squid, Noodles, Pho, Vietnamese Coffee
JAPANESE
Miso Soup, Sharing Sushi, Yaki Soba
OPENING TIMES
October open 1pm-9:30pm, closed Tue
November open 1pm-9:30pm, closed Tue & Wed
FESTIVE SET MENU FOR PARTIES
3 courses for €37.95 pp
Pre order required | Available for groups of 7+
STARTERS
A festive platter served family style for everyone to share, a selection of the below:
Pigs in blankets with cranberry glaze
Korean fried chicken wings
Baked Camembert with spiced red onion marmalade & toasted sourdough (V)
Hummus with spiced toasted chickpeas & grissini (V)
MAIN COURSE
Grilled seabass on a champagne sauce, braised fennel, tomato concasse, crushed new potatoes
Roast turkey ballotine wrapped in bacon with a sage & chestnut stu ng, served with crispy potatoes, glazed carrots & pig in blanket with gravy
Butternut squah & goats cheese tart served with a green salad (V)
SIDES
Crispy roast potatoes €4.50
Pigs in blankets €5.95
Brussel sprouts with bacon bits €4.50
DESSERT
Clementine & pistachio mess
Warm chocolate fondant, vanilla ice cream
Christmas pudding
FANCY ANOTHER COURSE?
Finish your meal with a selection of artisanal cheeses
3 cheeses €6.95 | 6 cheeses €10.95
Legends of the Algarve
The Legend of Praia dos Três Irmãos
Long ago, a family of fishermen lived on the southern coast of what we today call Portugal. This family had a tough life. They had to work hard to bring food to the table, and they did not make enough to sell. They needed a miracle.
Legend has it that one day, a deity came to their aid, and so they made a deal. This god or goddess (whose name has been lost in time) would increase the number of fish they caught, and the fishermen would then have to give something in return.
And so it happened that suddenly the fishermen would return home with bucketloads of fish; their families were healthy and well fed, all thanks to the unknown god. However, when it came time to pay their part of the deal, the fishermen became greedy and told the god they would not keep the promise they had made. Instead of destroying the fishermen right then and there, the angered god told them that their greed would be their undoing and that they would regret it. Not today, but soon, they would wish they had kept their promise.
Many years later, three brothers of the same family of fishermen went out to sea to fish in the hope that they would make a worthy catch. Unfortunately, once they set off to sea, a tremendous storm blew, and they were right in the middle of it.
The boat rocked in the waves, water crashing inside. Every second, it sank deeper and deeper. The men knew they would not make it out alive. So now, if you go to Praia dos Três Irmãos near Alvor, you can see three rocks which symbolise the brothers; the gods put them there to remind others not to renege on a promise.
Note: This legend came from an oral tradition and is based on all the details we know. The rest has been lost to time.
WORDS Felipe Castilho Trujilho
Felipe won the Young Writers Competition initiated by Manuela Istrate, an English teacher at Escola Básica e Secundária de Bemposta, Portimão. Tomorrow published the winning entries of the competition. Felipe is 17 and studying theatre at Bemposta. He has been researching the legends of the Algarve, hearing stories from the older generations and other sources.
Neo-Chalcolithic standing stone known as Menir da Pedra Moirinha
Bextrel, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Pedra Mourinha
This is the story explaining how Pedra Mourinha (Moorish rock), located near the city of Portimão, got its name. This tale is as old as the rocks themselves! Legend tells the story of a young, fair Moorish lady who lived in the territory we today call Monchique and fell in love with a Christian man. However, because her father had already promised her hand in marriage to another, their love was forbidden. So the two young lovers decided to elope together but were quickly found out by her father, who in return locked her in a tower and banished her lover to Portimão.
The beautiful girl cried for countless days and countless nights, miserable and missing her lover, and her tears pushed a large rock found beside the tower all the way down to Portimão, to her love. Legends also theorise that her lover’s longing attracted the large rock to Portimão together with her tears.
The rock is, in fact, a menhir originating in the Serra de Monchique, located around 20 kilometres away. This legend was probably created by our ancestors to explain the mystery of how it made its way to Portimão.
Told by Gisela Oliveira, Portuguese teacher in the Algarve.
The Window
There is a window far within the city of Lagos, but it is not an ordinary window. Legend says it was here that the great Portuguese king Dom Sebastião watched the mass below before leaving for the great battle of Alcácer, from which he never returned, and his body was never found. Some school friends and I decided to investigate further and put our own interpretations on this well-known local legend.
After talking to some locals in Lagos, I heard a different version of the story. This legend tells of a maiden who lived in the castle in Lagos and that, after all these years, if you look through the window, you can see her spirit there.
Dom Sebastião took to the throne at only 14 years old and never had a wife or children. Some historians believe that he was gay. However, I don’t believe that’s the case. Another local from Lagos told us that they heard of Dom Sebastião meeting someone at that window. So what if his last appearance there wasn’t to observe the mass at all?
What if Dom Sebastião and this mystery maiden were in love? Maybe a type of forbidden love such as Romeo and Juliet. That would certainly explain why he never had a wife during his life and all those secret meetings at the window. But one thing remains a mystery: why does the spirit of that maiden haunt the castle? Well, for that, we must take a look at another legend about Lagos.
When leaving to fight in Alcácer, Dom Sebastião left from the port in Lagos, and legend says that one foggy morning his spirit will return when the Portuguese people need him the most. I believe that Dom Sebastião’s last appearance at the window before leaving for war was, in fact, a farewell to his lover, who eventually found out Dom Sebastião would never return and was left with a broken heart. Now, her spirit awaits his return, patiently and in misery.
Sources: Joan Martins, Maria Pilar and high schoolers from Lagos.
A Portugal Odyssey:
Ten ‘Oldest’ Facts About Portugal
WORDS Luka Alexander
It is no surprise that Portugal is steeped in history, given that it is arguably one of the oldest countries in Europe. Throughout the centuries, this little yet once powerful country has given birth to many notable figures and a host of unusual happenings. This month, let's take a look at ten facts about Portugal that you possibly didn't know, which reflect its ancient history.
1. One of the world's oldest borders
Portugal's border with Spain is one the oldest frontiers in the world. Defined by the Treaty of Alcañices between King Denis of Portugal and King Fernando IV of Castile in 1297, the 1,234km Portuguese-Spanish border, known as “the stripe”, has remained almost unchanged for over 700 years.
Having shared an open border with Spain, as part of the Schengen zone, since 1995, it is the largest uninterrupted border in the European Union. In July 2020, the President of Portugal Marcelo Rebelo de Sousa and H.M. King Felipe VI of Spain met on the border between Elvas and Badajoz to celebrate the reopening of the open border following its temporary closure due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Image: Iberian Peninsula map c. 1794 [Public Domain]
2. Longest reigning monarch
King Alfonso is credited as the father of Portugal, having founded the country in 1143. Ascending the throne in 1112, he died in 1185 after 73 years and 220 days in power and holds the Guinness World Record as Europe's longest-reigning monarch. Portugal's shortest reigning monarch, however, was Luis Felipe, who was 'king' for 20 minutes following the assassination of his father in 1908. The heir-apparent died shortly after his father was assassinated at the hands of the same republican sympathisers, which paved the way for a Portuguese republic.
Image: Dom Alfonso I c.1639 Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International licence.
3. The world's oldest bookshop
Livraria Bertrand (the Bertrand bookshop) is known as the world's oldest still-operating bookshop. Pedro Faure opened it in Chiado, Lisbon, in 1732. When French booksellers arrived in Portugal during the 18th century, Pedro Faure set out to establish one of the world's bestloved companies in literature. Having already established a leading print shop in Cordoaria Velha, he opened his bookshop, presumably under his own name, on Rua Direita do Loreto, close to the current Livraria Bertrand do Chiado. Now, some 292 years later, Livraria Bertrand has gained a prestigious reputation worldwide, attracting internationally renowned scholars and the elites alike. In 2010, Guinness World Records formally announced it as the world's oldest bookshop. Even Dom Pedro II, the king of Brazil, visited Livraria Bertrand to scroll through the bookshelves during his European tour in 1871. Today, the company operates 59 branches across Portugal, including two on the island of Madeira.
Ponte de Lima is officially the oldest village in Portugal. Located in the Viana do Castelo region in the north, it was founded in 1125 and was once a Roman settlement on the main road from Braga to Santiago de Compostela. Today, the town is known for its production of vinho verde (green wine), sarrabulho rice and its annual September fair Feiras Novas, which dates back to 1826 under the provision of King Pedro IV.
T Image: he Oldest Village of Ponte de Lima by Dng Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported licence.
5. The capital's oldest house
Casa Nóisi, situated on Rua dos Cegos in Lisbon's oldest neighbourhood Alfama, is the oldest house in the capital. Dating back half a millennium, the small townhouse withstood the earthquake of 1755, which devastated much of the city and country as a whole. Many believe that the house was spared from destruction due to its solid pillars and small design, withstanding the tests of time and beautifully preserved to this day. Its overhanging first floor is a perfect representation of medieval architecture and one of the few surviving in the country today.
Image: The Capital's Oldest House – Google Maps 2024
6. The oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon
Alfama is considered the oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon, having been founded in 1200 BC. Its name derives from the Arabic al-hamma, meaning hot fountains. Alfama constituted the whole city during Moorish rule, stretching to the west Baixa neighbourhood. Due to its proximity to the Tagus river, Alfama became a popular fishing district. Today, Alfama preserves some of the most historic architecture in Lisbon, complete with its Moorish-built streets, overlooked by the former royal residence, the medieval Castle of São Jorge.
Alfama - The Oldest Neighbourhood in Lisbon by TeWeBs Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International licence.
7. The oldest road sign in the world
Staying in Alfama, it would be no surprise to learn that this historic neighbourhood is home to the world's oldest road sign. Standing on Rua do Salvador, it is the only remaining marble road sign installed by Dom Pedro II in 1686. Originally, there were 24 traffic regulatory signs in the city of Lisbon, but this is the only one which has survived. The 300-year-old plaque reads "Year 1686. His Majesty orders that coaches, carriages and sedan chairs that come from the entrance of Salvador to retreat to the same part." This would allow those travelling up the street to have priority over anyone coming downwards, thus improving the circulation of traffic and pedestrians. The sign isn't only the oldest of its kind in Portugal but also the oldest traffic sign in the world.
Oldest Road Sign in the World by @arquivomunicipal.cm-lisboa.pt
8. The oldest university
Coimbra University is one of the oldest universities in the world and the oldest in Portugal. Founded in 1290 by Dom Dinis as the Estudos Gerais (General Studies), the university was transferred between Lisbon and Coimbra during the reigns of several monarchs until it was definitively established in Coimbra by Dom João III in 1537. Up until the early part of the 20th century, it was the only Portuguese-speaking university in the world and it is still operating to this day.
licence.
9. The world's oldest megalithic complex
Almendres Cromlech, near Évora, is considered one of the oldest megalithic sites in the world. Thought to be around 7,000 years old, it is the largest of its kind on the Iberian Peninsula and around 2,000 years older than Stonehenge. Built with 95 granite monoliths arranged in a circular pattern, the site is believed to have been used for religious and ceremonial purposes, as well as an astronomical observatory. What makes Almendres Cromlech stand out amongst other megalithic structures is that there is no entry fee and visitors can walk around the stones just as many have done for millennia.
10. The world's oldest alliance
Although common knowledge, we couldn't end our list without including the world's first alliance and arguably the oldest friendship in history.
Following the assistance of English crusaders in helping King Alfonso I capture Lisbon from the Moors in 1147, it was in 1372 that Dom Ferdinand I of Portugal and representatives of John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, signed the Treaty of Tagilde at the Church of São Salvador of Tagilde in the Braga district.
The following year saw the signing of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty of 1373 between King Edward III of England and King Ferdinand I and Queen Eleanor of Portugal at St Paul's Cathedral, London, establishing "perpetual friendships, unions and alliances" between the two countries. When John of Gaunt landed in Galicia in 1386 and failed to press his claim to the Crown of Castile with the help of the Portuguese, he left his daughter, Philippa of Lancaster, behind to marry King John I of Portugal and seal the Anglo-Portuguese alliance once and for all.
The Treaty of Windsor was signed in Windsor, England, on 9 May 1386, followed by the marriage of King John and Philippa of Lancaster on 14 February 1387. Today, the Alliance is 651 years old and probably the oldest friendship between nations in the world.
World's Oldest Alliance - George III of the United Kingdom and John VI of Portugal c. 1810 [Public Domain]
DID YOU KNOW?
The Castle of Montemor-o-Velho in Coimbra district is the oldest castle in Portugal. Built in 1088, it is older than Portugal itself.
Coimbra – The Oldest University Palace Gate by Duca696 2011 Creative Commons AttributionShare Alike 3.0 Unported
World's Oldest Megalithic Complex - Almendres Cromlech by Luka Alexander
Saints and Sinners!
Which one are you, and who am I to say?!
November in the church commences with All Saints’ Day on 1 November. The church usually celebrates it on the first Sunday in November, which this year will be Sunday, 3 November.
WORDS Father Rob Kean
All Saints’ Day has origins dating back to the 4th century in Antioch (now Antakya, in Turkey). It was a significant city in the ancient world, particularly during the Roman Empire, and played a crucial role in the early spread of Christianity. The day was originally a feast day (celebration/commemoration) for Christian martyrs but has (certainly in the Anglican tradition of the church) since become a day where we give thanks for all those who have gone before us as examples of having led a ‘good’ Christian life.
But what many might not realise is that those so-called saints often had interesting and notso-saintly pasts! In fact, many of them had quite colourful pasts. Saint Augustine of Hippo was once a notorious sinner known for his hedonistic lifestyle, promiscuity and pursuit of worldly pleasures.
St Paul himself, who we owe much of our bible writing to, was a persecutor of Christians and was present at the stoning to death of St Stephen, the first Christian Martyr.
When St Francis of Assisi decided to renounce his worldly goods and take a vow of poverty, he had a difficult time following the strict rules of the monastic order he joined. He often
challenged authority and sought greater freedom in his spiritual practices.
These stories remind us that being ‘good’ or ‘bad’ isn’t fixed. Saints weren’t born perfect, and I would strongly argue that despite their canonisation, they never became perfect – they struggled, stumbled and made mistakes, just like the rest of us. It’s a reminder that no matter where we start, there’s always room to grow and evolve.
When we look around at people in our communities, it’s easy to see examples of those we might call modern-day saints – those who volunteer in the various charities here, for example. Feeding those in need and lifting them up through their acts of kindness. Every day, ordinary people perform extraordinary acts of kindness and generosity – often quietly, without recognition. Whether it’s a neighbour who checks in on the elderly, someone who volunteers at a food bank, or a friend who simply listens when life gets tough, these are the unsung saints of our time. What makes someone a saint today isn’t necessarily grand gestures but the small, consistent acts of love and service that ripple through our community, lifting others up. We may not call them saints, but their actions reflect the very heart of what it means to live with compassion.
For me personally, All Saints’ Day is also a time to reflect on the people who have profoundly shaped our lives – those who have taught us, guided us and encouraged us along the way. It’s not just about the saints we read about in history books but the everyday mentors who leave a lasting impact. Teachers, both in and out of the classroom, often come to mind. Their wisdom and patience shape who we are, often in ways we don’t fully appreciate until much later. I think of the people who showed us kindness when we least deserved it, or those who challenged us to grow when it felt uncomfortable. These are the quiet saints, the ones who shape our character and help us become better versions of ourselves.
So, when I come to celebrate All Saints’ Sunday on 4 November, I will certainly remember the many people who have really influenced me and shaped my life as I sing ‘When [All] The Saints Go Marching In’.
Fr Rob Kean is the chaplain of St Vincent’s Chaplaincy Algarve and Area Dean of Portugal
Also on the playlist: only authorised biography of the Beatles
EP1 Talk About Tomorrow with... Tom Henshaw
EP2 Talk About Tomorrow with... James Plaskitt
EP 3 Talk About Tomorrow with... John Aldridge
EP 4 Talk About Tomorrow with... Iberian Lynx Reproduction Centre
EP 5 Talk About Tomorrow with... Cadela Carlota
A podcast where you can listen and watch a selection of interviews with some of the Algarve’s most interesting characters.
Shakespeare’s Ancestry Here in the Algarve
Finding out that the Algarve is host to Scott Kirk, the 13th great-nephew of William Shakespeare and a direct descendant of Joan, the Bard’s younger sister, is hugely exciting for a Shakespeare devotee like myself. I met with Scott, who now lives in the Algarve, to learn more.
WORDS Annie O’Dea
Joan Shakespeare, whose married name was Joan Hart, was baptised on 15 April 1569 and buried on 4 November 1646. She is the only member of Shakespeare’s family whose known descendants continue the family line to the present day – hence the significance of Scott Kirk’s lineage, which is continued by his daughter Suzana.
Scott is so proud of his famous heritage that he even has the family crest tattooed on his arm. He told me, “All three of my brothers have the Shakespeare coat of arms tattoo on our arms. At the time, we saw it more as a symbol of our immediate family. I only first realised it meant a lot more when I went to Stratford-upon-Avon and someone noticed it.”
Scott explained that, growing up, they were always aware of their ancestry, as the framed family tree was proudly hanging in the hallway entrance. After a snowball fight accidentally hit the family treasure and stained it, Scott painstakingly redid it in the same font, adding more recent descendants, including his daughter.This is now housed in the archives at Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Stratford-upon-Avon.
Scott and his wife Dayane were in Brazil when they discovered they were going to have their first child, but returned to England, Scott’s home.
Wanting to give their daughter the “greatest familial connection” from birth, they became volunteers at Mary Arden’s Farm, the home of Scott’s ancestral grandmother, Shakespeare’s mother. Waiting for their daughter’s safe arrival at the farm was, as Scott said, “a humbling experience, grounding me deeply to both my past and my future”.
Suzana is Shakespeare’s 14th great-niece, so it was only natural that she was baptised in the same church as Shakespeare was buried in. She is even named after the Bard’s eldest daughter.
The family then decided to continue their worldwide trip, travelling to India, Canada, the Bahamas, the United States and Brazil, all with Suzana in tow. Appreciating the dangers of Brazil with a young child, they were drawn to Portugal, as one of the safest countries in the world, perfect for family life with its beautiful beaches, Algarvian sunshine, good schools, and so much more.
Scott, an educationalist who has developed tools and games for schools for over 30 years, reflected, “One of my proudest achievements is the creation of 56 maths games, played by millions of children each year. It is games like these that enhance children’s minds.” However, since moving to Portugal and evaluating the property market, his focus quickly shifted from educational games to helping buyers purchase property. He has developed his own proptech company called BuyProperty.com, which is keeping him busy.
Scott is proud of Suzana, who is a gifted thespian with a natural stage presence. Despite being only 10 years old, her performances have already captivated audiences. On a recent return to Stratford-Upon-Avon for Shakespeare’s birthday celebrations, an annual event held around 23 April, Suzana was given the opportunity to perform by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust and recited Shakespeare’s Sonnet 18 in front of a crowd of visitors. The audience responded with “a rousing applause”.
It’s too soon to know if Suzana will enter the theatrical profession, however, given their family connections, her parents are keen to give her the opportunity to be centre stage. Suzana’s godmother, herself an actress, will be coming to the Algarve next summer, with her acting troupe, with the aim of inspiring and teaching children how to perform Shakespeare. A number of workshops will culminate in a performance of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, which will include Suzana and other children. August 2025, therefore, promises the opportunity for Suzana and other local young stars to shine.
So if “all the world’s a stage” then it is wonderful to see Suzana performing in Portugal and continuing the amazing legacy of her famous ancestor.
A world inside her head
A few months ago, I saw her curious characters for the first time. I was at the Gama Rama Art Gallery in downtown Faro and, from amongst the abundance of intriguing artworks on display, my attention was grabbed by many charming and somewhat cheeky creatures. There were postcards featuring cats, dogs, plants, birds and bears. There were mermaids and moustached mermen swimming about in the ocean, and, on land, a selection of eccentric beachgoers enjoying a rather fruity beach day – many of them also rocking a groovy tash.
Bizarre beach bums
These peculiar and playful beings are the work of one of the gallery’s resident artists, Joana Rosa Bragança. Rosa, as she later told me to call her, is an illustrator, a printmaker, a photographer, and a sculptress. At the Gama Rama Gallery, she holds workshops where she teaches people linocut techniques to make their own stamps on rubber blocks with a lovely ‘fauna and flora’ theme.
“Gosh, she sounds like a good story,” I thought. “It would be nice to meet her.” And, in the way these things go, once you wish upon a star, I ran into Rosa a few weeks later when she had a stall at the Spring Fair in the costume museum in São
Brás do Alportel – and then again a few weeks later on Farol Island in the Ria Formosa.
This island, it turns out, is very dear to Rosa’s heart. Indeed, it’s the source of much of her inspiration, especially when it comes to those zany bathers or banhistas of hers.
The islands of Farol, Culatra and Armona also have a famous folklore legend associated with them, and it is from this that Rosa found ideas for her 2020 short film Maré (Tide).
But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. I needed to arrange to meet Rosa when I had my pencil and paper at the ready. And where better to meet than at her parents’ shop on the seafront in Olhão?
Paint it purple
Rosa turned up by bicycle when we met outside this little art-filled shop called the Pinta Roxa. A chalk fisherman with a seagull on his head pointed the way inside. Here we met Rosa’s mum. It turns out her grandma lives upstairs and her parents, who were both teachers before they retired, opened this shop where, after school, they would sell work from local artists – including their daughter’s.
Joana Rosa Bragança
WORDS Jake Cleaver
Looking around this art and craft shop, there were all kinds of interesting works from other distinctly Algarvian artists, including model replicas of very local boats and photos of charming Portuguese chimneys. Rosa’s characters again jump out at customers that wander in, and offer fun alternatives to the more classic seaside postcards that you might otherwise find.
Rosa was born at the end of the world (in Sagres) but moved to Olhão when she was one year old. She studied painting and illustration in Lisbon and Évora, and spent a little time in Norway. But even though Rosa admits the Algarve is a tricky place to be an artist – it’s her home.
Her hometown offers plenty of untapped inspiration for much of her artwork, be it the hard-working, sometimes a little gruff (yet secretly gentle!) local fishermen or the packs of tourists that flock to its shores in the summertime. That said, not all her characters are inspired by real life. Rosa clearly has an enchanting world inside her head, from which many of her imaginative beings can only be visiting.
A glimpse into her world
The walls were full with all kinds of fun and furry creatures, and feature anything from a peaceful woman with almond blossom growing out of her hair to an assortment of mermaids and children going for a scooter ride with Mr Fox.
One of my favourites was a painting of three women whizzing down the road on a bicycle – washing line in tow. This was a poster from 2019 when Rosa did all the prints for the Algarve trio girl band The Mercoilas.
There were also horses with rain jackets, which Rosa had been amused to see while in Norway. She decided she would have a go at dressing up her own more colourful interpretations with interesting hairdos and boots to match.
Rosa loves to paint these wonderfully colourful beings with aquarelle – but she also doesn’t need colour to make them wonderful. With watercolour, every brush stroke counts. While this results in aesthetic simplicity, it is also quite daunting. Rosa likes to simplify things sometimes and has a
few black and white collections, too, which allow her to play more freely.
Turning the tide
Now, let’s go back to Rosa’s mini-movie Maré and that local legend I mentioned earlier – the legend of Arraul. Arraul was the last son of Atlantis, who was swept into the sea by a fierce storm and swallowed by a whale, which later brought him ashore near Olhão. Arraul loved the region so much that he walked up to the Cerro de São Miguel and, bucket by bucket, built the islands known as the Ria Formosa to shield and protect its coastline.
Rosa grew up hearing the legend – even if it was an embellished version from her grandparents, who also added that Arraul used to dive under the islands and come out the other side with shipwrecks hanging in his ears like earrings.
When years later, Rosa got the opportunity to make a short film for Animanostra, she drew (literally) inspiration for her own friendly aquatic giant, who is also spat out by a whale and comes to shore full of good intentions and seaweed in his hair. He builds an island and befriends a small boy who truly treasures the beauty and the peace of the place. However, when the idyllic isle is overrun by obnoxious tourists, leaving havoc and rubbish in their wake, our gentle giant wakes up and lets out a great big yawn that sends them all heading for the hills.
It’s a very lovely little film. But gosh, maybe we should indeed ‘take tide’ and make sure to be on our best behaviour when visiting these precious islands – so the real Arraul won’t have to come back.
Award winning diving centre in Lagos Marina with a professional team with over 20 years of scuba diving experience. From beginner to instructor level and 5 to 40 meter dives, safety is their priority.
Remembering Severa: Portugal's Lady of The Night
WORDS Luka Alexander
Severa may not be a name high-up on the fado charts, but her short life story is etched in Portugal's history as one of the country's most flamboyant ‘ladies of the night’ and the first fado singer to rise to national fame. On the 178th anniversary of her death, we look back at Severa's life and learn how she became one of Portugal's nearmythical figures.
Born Maria Severa Onofriana on 26 July 1820 in Madragoa, Lisbon, the young cantor began singing fado at a young age in her mother's tavern in the centre of Lisbon. Over the years, Severa incorporated the Portuguese guitar into her performances, wowing revellers with her flamboyant style and beautiful looks.
eventually opened her own tavern in the city, where Severa became a regular guest performer.
As Severa's repertoire grew, so did her popularity. She would grace the floors of Lisbon's taverns and at social events just a stone's throw away from her home in Lisbon's entertainment district, Bairro Alto. Referred to at the time as a “gracious courtesan", she became well known in the capital and across Portugal, leading her to national fame as the girl who would enchant passersby as she strolled the working-class districts of the capital.
With her good looks, often attributed to her gypsy origin, Severa was rumoured to have several high-profile lovers amongst her clientele, including the 13th Count of Vimioso, Francisco de Paula Portugal e Castro. The count was enchanted by Severa's voice and would often take her to bullfights, an important cultural event at the time, which undoubtedly gave her great celebrity status, allowing her to rub shoulders with the rich and famous, and social elites.
She took the stage name Severa in her early years, which presumably came from her father, Severo Manuel, who was of Portuguese Gypsy origin and from Santarém. Her mother, Ana Gertrudes, known as A Barbuda (the bearded woman), was originally from Ponte de Sor in Alentejo before migrating to Lisbon with local fishermen, to find work in the capital. She
While little is known about Severa's life, many first-hand accounts give us a glimpse into the life of Portugal's first nationally acclaimed fado singer. One account by poet Bulhão Pato explained his meeting with Severa: "The poor girl was a very interesting fado singer, as Mouraria will never have again”. Given the inequalities of the time, Severa was known to stand her ground and was “ready to slap anyone who mistreated her”. Júlio de Sousa e Costa described her as “brave, full of affection for those she loved, but was also rude to her enemies. She was not an ordinary woman, that is for sure.” Some say that upon meeting Severa, you couldn´t forget the slender girl with fire in her eyes and a loud voice. Eventually, Severa would move indefinitely to Lisbon's historic district of Mouraria, where she would serenade Portuguese and English sailors who often frequented the area.
Author Luís Augusto Palmeirim had the privilege to meet Severa at her modest home in the city. He described her as “smoking, lying on a straw canapé, wearing polishing slippers with red dots, a silk scarf with branch motifs in her head and her dress’ sleeves rolled up”. Severa appeared just as
flamboyant off-stage, immaculately dressed and ready to defend herself in the male-dominated world.
Sadly, just like many of the characters in the solemn songs that she sang, Severa met her fate at a young age. She succumbed to tuberculosis on 30 November 1846, in a run-down brothel on Rua do Capelão in the Mouraria neighbourhood in Lisbon. She was buried in a common grave, without a coffin in the Alto de São João Cemetery. It is said that Severa's last words were, “I die, without ever having lived.”
At just 26 years of age, Severa became a mythical figure following her death and was regarded as the first fado singer to have risen to fame, despite her short life, most likely for her unusual outstanding beauty and outlandish character, in addition to her harmonic vocal skills.
Fifty-five years after her death, Severa was remembered in the novel A Severa by Júlio Dantas, which was made into a play in 1901. The play would later become a film in 1931, directed by Leitão de Barros. It was subsequently the first Portuguese film to feature sound, thus bringing Severa's story to a modern-day audience. More recently, Severa was portrayed by fado singer Cuca Roseta in the 2007 film Fados by Spanish director Carlos Saura, which received the most prestigious award in Spanish cinema, the Goya Award. Today, fado enthusiasts can still see Severa's last home on Rua do Capelão No. 35A in Mouraria, where a plaque commemorating the singer simply reads “Casa da Severa”.
While Severa's music may not be as widely remembered as some of her contemporaries, her legacy lives on through books, films, and numerous fado restaurants that bear her name. They all pay homage to a woman who brought fado into the spotlight for generations to come, and a singer who is remembered for her enchanting character and fearless spirit, which has become part of Portugal's musical heritage.
Fado singer Maria Severa portrayed in a watercolor by Roque Gameiro
“A Severa” sketch by Francisco Augusto Metrass c. 1861 [Public Domain]
Poster for the film A Severa (1931) by Leitão de Barros, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
ESPICHE GOLF
FESTIVE MENUS FOR PARTIES
3 Course Meal Lunch: 30€ p.p. | Dinner: 45€ p.p.
Booking required | Available for a minimum of 30 people
COUVERT
Focaccia, flavoured butter, olives and Algarvian carrots
STARTERS
Creamy roast pumpkin soup with chestnuts and “muxama”
Creamy sweet potato and carrot soup with crispy leek and basil olive oil
Seabass carpaccio, rocket, mayonnaise and tru e
Goat's cheese, watercress, walnuts and pumpkin jam
Sirloin carpaccio, rocket, mustard mayonnaise and walnuts
MAIN COURSES
Turkey breast stu ed with game sausage, demi-glace sauce, mashed potatoes and grilled seasonal vegetables
Entrecôte with red wine sauce, potato gratin and vegetables
Goat with chestnuts, herbs and roasted vegetables
Pork loin stu ed with clams, served with caramelised apple and white rice
Oven-roasted octopus with Romanesco and olives, served with carrot puree
Fresh cod with a trio of cabbage and a duo of potatoes
Baked cod with broa crust, sweet potato and stu ed mushrooms
Scallop with tiger prawns and shrimp bisque, spinach and cherry tomatoes
DESSERTS
Christmas bu et with traditional sweets
(egg pudding, king cake, fritters, Christmas log, sultanas, dried fruit and surprise sweets)
DRINKS INCLUDED
Wine, water and co ee
A welcome cocktail is included with the dinner option
SUNDAY ROAST
Available every Sunday from 12h00
WINE PROMOTION
20% discount on Paxá wine with your meal
NEW YEAR'S DAY BUFFET
Start the New Year in style with our special New Year's Day Bu et
NOVEMBER DISH OF THE MONTH
Ribs with french fries and salad
Opening Hours November: Open daily 8.00am - 5.30pm
+351 282 688 270
gecko@espichegolf.pt
www.espichegolf.pt
Dance Festival
The Pedra Dura – Algarve Dance Festival returns to Lagos. The two-week festival is filled with performances, concerts, DJ sets, masterclasses, films and various activities that will combine dance and science. With the Cultural Centre of Lagos serving as the festival’s focal point, events will also take place across various locations in the city. Discover more on the event page and online agenda, or through the podcast with Tiago Mansilha, which is available on Spotify and Apple podcasts.
7–16 November
Lagos
www.festivalpedradura.com
Aljezur Sweet Potato Festival
The Aljezur Sweet Potato Festival is an iconic event celebrating one of the Algarve region's most emblematic products. Recognised for its superior quality, Aljezur sweet potatoes are not only an essential food in local cuisine, but also a symbol of pride and tradition for the community. The festival not only highlights the agricultural and gastronomic importance of this tuber, but also promotes the region's culture, crafts and tourism.
29 November–1 December
Aljezur
cm-aljezur.pt
What's on
Disclaimer:
Ukraine Appeal
This is a fun Christmassy evening of good food, music and company to raise funds for Oranta, the official Ukrainian Algarve Charity. Their events have helped send sixteen vehicles transformed into ambulances to the frontline war zone. Every donation counts.
6 December
Penina Hotel
Please contact Angela + 351 919 272 623 or angelambroad@live.com for more information and tickets.
Walk & Art Festival
Combining hiking and art, the festival promises three days packed with environmental education activities for children and families, technical workshops, talks and dozens of daily themed routes with different levels of difficulty. This event is part of the Algarve Walking Season.
1–3 November
Barão de São João
www.walkartfest.pt
Early Arts Christmas Fair
This annual event showcases handmade textiles, handmade baskets, recycled paper, necklaces, Christmas cards, lamps, wooden toys and figures, hand-painted gifts, and culinary items by artists An Lanckman, Guido Declercq, Jules van Veen, Mary Byrde and Nel Schimmer. Profits go to Madrugada and Cunina (a Belgian non-profit organisation for children in poor countries).
Everyone is welcomed with a drink and a snack.
9–10 November, 10.30 am– 5 pm
At the house of Guido Declercq and An Lanckman: Vale da Telha A5 Aljezur (The first house on your left if travelling from Vales to Arrifana.)
guido.a.declercq@gmail.com
Festival Contrapeso
The festival includes a mixed programme of theatre and jazz featuring emerging and established artists. In addition to the programme, there are workshops and masterclasses that are open to the entire community.
28 November–1 December
Loulé
contrapeso@makinadecena.com
Royal British Legion Charity Event
If you wish to support the Royal British Legion during the month of Remembrance Sunday, they are holding a fundraising lunch in the Eastern Algarve. Cost: €25 pp
They will also hold a Christmas Party on 14 December to raise money for military veterans and the Bombeiros at restaurant Zé do Norte in Loulé. Contact: bland.sg@gmail.com for more details.
27 November 12.30 for 1 pm
A Carpintaria, Estrade de Palmeira 873 G, 8800-116, Luz de Tavira
Katarina@umavida.pt
WhatsApp: + 351 916 569 465
Choir Festival
This festival is part of the Ciclo de Encontro Corais em Terras do Infante, featuring individual performances by each of the invited choirs. Free entry
2 November
Igreja Paroquial de Bensafrim 5 pm
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Luz, Praia da Luz 5 pm
3 November
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Lagos 3.30 pm 10 November
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, Lagos 3.30 pm
agcorallagos.org
Casino Royal Charity Ball
Dress to impress for Tomorrow magazine's annual winter ball, which raises vital money for local charities. A delicious 3-course meal will be served before the dance floor comes alive with music from 5-Ex Band.
Tickets: €70, including dinner, drinks and a charity donation.
23 November, 6.30 pm
Tivoli Hotel, Lagos
tact@tomorrowalgarve.com +351 969 685 872
Sons D'Aquém Mar Festival
The Festival with Ancient Sounds offers a diverse and creative offering featuring the different styles and instruments of past times. These four concerts honour the Algarve’s interdependence with the sea. They explore a symbiotic relationship which combines respect, dependence, survival and adventure with the fear and threats the ocean poses. Tickets: €6
25 November–15 December, 7 pm
Carlos do Carmo Auditorium Lagoa www.artis21.pt
Christmas Bazaar
The Bright International School is hosting a Christmas bazaar. Everyone is invited to join them for a day filled with Christmas music, food and drink, children’s games, and plenty of local art and craft stalls to kick off the Christmas shopping season. Santa will also attend, and the school’s fantastic caterers will provide the food.
All proceeds raised by the school will be donated to the local charity Existir.
16 November, 10 am–3 pm
Loulé
+351 962 985 398
Pop-Up Art Exhibition
Quinta Art Collective is delighted to announce its upcoming pop-up exhibition, during which visitors are invited to enjoy a complimentary glass of wine and canapés while viewing new creations by the artists Andrea B Designs, Tracy Carson, Jane Preza and Jessica Dunn.
This particular pop-up exhibition will focus on smaller works, perfect for Christmas gift-giving. With an eclectic mix of styles and genres, there is truly something for everyone.
26 November, 5 pm–8 pm
Restaurant O Lavrador, located in the hills of Boliqueime
hello@quintaartcollective.com
A Little Slice of PARADISE
Look at the photograph above. Can you guess where I took it? Is it a lagoon in the Caribbean, the Maldives, or the Seychelles? No, it is not. It’s the Algarve’s very own Ilha da Armona!
I discovered the island this summer – how I’ve been here for so long and not heard of this place, I do not know. We only went to Armona by chance. My sister-in-law took our teenagers to Lisbon for the weekend, so we thought we’d have a little road trip ourselves. I had just sold a painting to a customer in Praia Verde and I thought ‘ooh, that’s a nice name, where is that? Does the verde bit mean the sea or the vegetation is green? If I deliver it to her myself, I’ll find out.’
We’d never ventured east of Tavira, so we decided to go wild and drive to Vila Real de Santo António on the Spanish border and follow the coast road slowly back to Lagos. Praia Verde was a stunning beach with a backdrop of pine trees that stretched for miles and the water was calm and clear and nearly warm. But the star of the weekend – and the name doesn’t do it justice (it sounds like a miserable old aunt) – was the beautiful Armona.
The island is part of the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa and just a 20-minute hop from Olhão. €4.10 return, what a bargain. The ferry was heaving and when we arrived, I thought, ‘ugh, is this it?’ A small, packed beach with a noisy cafe playing heavy metal. Lots of families jumped off the ferry and set up camp for the day right there, but there was also a procession of people marching down a long path into the distance. (There are no roads on Armona, so no cars: how fabulous.) We passed colourful bungalows built on the sand on either side of the path and then, after a while, the little houses disappeared and, oh my god, it was just miles and miles of beautiful beach, crystal clear waters and not a soul in sight. In August? I know! Don’t tell anyone.
We had to run to catch the last ferry back to Olhão and we’ve been on Airbnb searching for overnight stays ever since. There are no hotels on the island, but we’re still looking. I think we’ll go back in the spring when it's warm enough to enjoy the water. You don’t need a snorkel, you can just stand there in the sea and see every detail of every passing fish. We talk about it every day and the family is tired of watching us pull out our drone photos at every opportunity and saying to people, “Oh, you live in the Algarve, but you’ve never been to The Islands?”
While counting the days until spring, I’ve been thinking about how to bring the beauty of an island into your home and stay uplifted through the dark days of winter. If you want to feel like you’re living in a little slice of paradise, try the palette of the ocean and the sand.
Introducing milky earthy tones alongside fresh blues and greens makes a room feel sooo serene. Think about how the golden buttermilk of the beach melts into the turquoise of the ocean, and don’t forget the peppermint spray and seafoam as the waves hit the shore. Get all those elements working together in harmony, just as they do in nature.
BLUE LAGOON Ilha da Armona in Parque Natural da Ria Formosa, Taken by Flora
Of course, the islands of the Ria Formosa are not the only heavenly places in Portugal. Wherever you are in the Algarve, you’ll find sources of inspiration for decorating your home. My husband has been annoying the neighbours all autumn, playing with his new toy on the terrace. I despise that drone – it’s like a huge threatening fly with its incessant buzzing – but I have to admit I’m in love with the pictures he gets from the comfort of his sun lounger. He should be working for the Portuguese tourist board.
The picture on the left is of the beautiful Praia dos Pinheiros, one of the many coves in Lagos with rugged sandstone cliffs. You don’t have to own a drone. You can get great shots with your phone just standing on the edge of the cliffs and looking down onto the sand below, especially in November when the beaches are nice and empty.
Coastal pictures look fantastic printed on acrylic glass (a new state-of-the-art alternative to the traditional framed print). I get mine done at www.custtom.com, but there are loads of online print services these days. Acrylic prints are sleek and minimalist and, of course, waterproof, so they’re great for bathrooms and kitchens. They also make unique Christmas presents, but I have a rule in my house that nobody is to mention the ‘C’ word until 1 December, so forget I said that.
I don’t know if it’s because I’ve got Armona on my mind, but I keep seeing home decor that reminds me of the ocean lapping the sand and sunlight bouncing off the water. I’ve spotted lots of ceramics and textiles featuring beautiful translucent colours flowing into one another. Each time I find myself clutching another perfect thing and heading for the checkout, I think ‘hmm, should you really be buying this?’ And then a little voice says, ‘aah, but it’s good for one’s mental health, isn’t it?’ And it’s a lot cheaper than therapy. I feel better already. So indulge yourself – sip your tea from a giant ocean-inspired mug, immerse yourself in that watercolour painting, rest your head on wave-like cushions and create your own little island paradise …
1. CLIFFS & OCEAN Praia dos Pinheiros, taken by Flora
A Windsurfing Pioneer
When Tomorrow asked me to meet Carlos Clímaco and write his story, I couldn’t have been more delighted. I’ve been a yachtsman for many years and a recreational windsurfer for some of that time. It was a sunny day with light winds when I caught up with Carlos at Baleira beach next to the fishing port in Sagres.
WORDS Julian Putley
Carlos has been windsurfing for 45 years, ever since windsurfing became popular in Europe. The sport was first envisaged and subsequently developed in California in the late 60s, and, by the 70s, it had reached Europe. Carlos Clímaco took up the sport in 1979 and fell in love with it. He was born in Carrapateira, a village on the west coast of the Algarve, but the conditions for windsurfing were unsuitable. Fortunately, the protected bay and often steady winds in Sagres were perfect, so the bay became his training ground.
Almost ten years ago, Carlos started to take racing and competition seriously. In 2016, 2017 and 2018, he placed well in the Campeonato Nacional de Windsurf Slalom in Portugal, achieving 5th, 3rd and 5th place respectively in the veterans’ class. Slowly, Carlos began to attend more events and competitions. In 2017, he took part in the Défi Wind à Gruissan in Southern France, which is often described as the most wild and wonderful sailing event in windsurfing. Gruissan is famous for flat water and a sporty wind, known as the Tramontana. It often blows 40 knots and the event is regarded as one of the most challenging in the world. The race begins with a flying start of over 1,300 competitors and comprises four gruelling legs of ten kilometres each.
In 2018, Carlos again entered the event. “Défi means challenge in French, and, yes, the race was the most
challenging I have ever competed in,” laughed the athlete.
“I didn’t know the results when I finally crossed the finish line, but I was over-the-moon thrilled to find out that I came 2nd in my class. It was a podium finish and a huge result for Portugal and me.
“In the 2019 event, I again achieved a podium finish of 3rd place in the veterans’ class of over 60-year-olds with surfers from more than 30 countries. It really put Portugal on the map in terms of sailing competitions,” explained Carlos.
In April 2021, the Vila do Bispo council announced it would support Carlos to help him participate in sailing/windsurfing events throughout 2022 and around the world. The mayor, Rute Silva, signed the sponsorship contract with the athlete.
“It’s a great honour to be recognised and rewarded in this way,” said Carlos. Two years later, the sponsorship is ongoing.
Besides the world-famous event in Gruissan, France, Carlos has been successful in local regattas every year since. He is training hard now for the 2025 event. At 66 years of age, his dedication and enthusiasm are admirable.
As we sat chatting in a shaded area in the fishing port, we talked more about his life outside windsurfing. Carlos is a fisherman who specialises in the highly prized goose barnacles (percebes) that cling to the rocky cliff faces in southwest Portugal. There is a fairly short window of opportunity to harvest this delicacy, about two hours at low tide. “The exercise keeps me fit,” he told me. In between the percebes harvesting and the competing, Carlos taught himself how to sew, primarily so he could repair his windsurfing sails. Now, he repairs many things: awnings, shade umbrellas, canvas boat covers and so on. Like many itinerant sailors, you have to have multiple talents to succeed.
When I asked him about the future of windsurfing, he was circumspect. “Most of the competitors in the Défi event were 40 years plus. Young people are not so interested. There is too much interest in cell phones. Then there are all the alternative watersports like kiteboarding, wing foiling, stand-up paddle boarding and motorised foiling boards. But extreme sports are still popular and the Défi event is so radical and exciting that its popularity is increasing – and that’s a good thing.”
In the early days, windsurfers had fins but now many are opting for the foil, a fast and exciting innovation. In 2024, Carlos acquired the S2Maui Eagle with foil and he was anxious to get back on his board. As I watched him sail away, he was on the foil in no time. Watch out for sail number POR 181 during the 23rd Défi Wind Challenge from 23 May to 1 June, 2025.
Other sponsors have also joined the effort to raise awareness of the benefits of watersports and promote their own interests. Carlos Clímaco’s new board and sail are festooned with the logos of Dickson-Constant.com, the Câmara Municipal de Vila do Bispo, Aury Sports Ocean Shop and Sportlink.
Vila do Bispo coucil renovated Carlo's sponsorship in March 2024 courtesy of Município de Vila do Bispo
If you wish to publicise a sporting event, please contact our sports editor David Lugg: david.lugg@tomorrowalgarve.com
WORDS David Lugg
Cricket
Portugal has finished third in Group A of the European Cricket Championship. Despite victories against France and eventual group winners Scotland, a defeat to Ireland saw them miss out on qualification for the ‘finals’ competition.
Motorsport
The future of MotoGP in the Algarve has been secured for the next two seasons. Following some concerns that Portugal’s most prestigious motorsport race would be dropped from the calendar, Jaime Costa, CEO of the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve, announced that “It’s a great source of pride to be able to continue having a MotoGP [in the region]. It is recognition of our effort and work that has been going on since 2020.” Secretary of State for Tourism Pedro Machado echoed the announcement stating that the event would have a “significant economic impact on the regional economy”.
Handball
After two consecutive losses, Clube Gil Eanes has returned to winning ways to move up to sixth position in the 1st Division women’s championship. The Lagos side needs to finish in the top four to progress to the playoffs but face stern competition in the likes of Benfica and Braga.
Roller skating
Roller Lagos Clube de Patinagem are the national runners-up in both the men’s and women’s competitions. After the third and final leg in Madeira, the Algarve club held their nerve to finish in second place on the podium in an event that featured 15 clubs and 144 skaters.
Algarve Football
After a terrible start to their Primeira Liga season, Farense have parted ways with their manager José Mota. His replacement Tozé Marreco has made an immediate impact picking up a draw and a win in his first two games. The side from Faro remain bottom of the league with four points but are now only two points from safety with eight games played.
Basketball
Imortal women’s basketball team has begun their season with a home loss and an away win. The Albufeira-based side have set their sights for the year on a mid-table finish. Both the men’s and women’s sides play in the top division of Portuguese national basketball. The men’s team begin their campaign in late October with a home match against Benfica.
Rugby
The Portuguese rugby union have announced a historic one-off test match against Ireland in July 2025. The game will be the first-ever meeting between the two sides. Ireland, who are currently the world number one ranked team, are likely to be playing the match in the Algarve, though a specific date and venue has yet to be officially confirmed. Meanwhile, Portugal kick off their winter campaign on 16 November with a match against Scotland at Murrayfield. The sides have only met twice before with their last encounter taking place in 2007.
Beach soccer
Portugal has qualified for the men’s 2025 Beach Soccer World Cup. In last month’s European qualifying tournament in Cadiz, they demolished France 7-1 before beating archrivals Spain 9-6 in a thrilling match. The result sees the team consolidate their position of number three in the world rankings. The women’s team is currently ranked number two in the world.
Netball
Netball in the region continues to go from strength to strength. The recentlyformed Netball Portugal has expanded to accommodate a new board of directors with Sheba Karamat and Daniel Norton taking up their respective roles of president and vice-president. There are now 150 players in the Algarve and the numbers are increasing. Netball Portugal is currently recruiting for various positions, including coaches, umpires and, of course, players. Contact Margaret at info@netballportugal.com if you are interested in joining the netball community.
Couples in Crisis
The battle lines are drawn. The gloves are off. And the next round of fighting begins. As the harsh words fly, you wonder how your once-loving partner became someone you struggle to connect with. The love and understanding that once defined your relationship seem distant, leaving you asking: how did we get here, and how can we fix it?
Whether you’ve been together five months, five years or 50, you know there are always changing dynamics in your relationship –each person experiences their own ups and downs, and there are external pressures from work, financial stress, and the demands of family and friends.
Having children, changing jobs, moving locations and retiring are also major stressors on relationships. Why? Because our routines, roles and expectations of ourselves and the other person change. Often, before we know it, we are in crisis, wondering how we got here and questioning whether we should stay.
So, how do we deal with a critical point in our relationship and, better still, how do we prevent one?
Be honest: admit to yourself and the other person that there is a problem – that is the first step. Then call an amnesty – to stop
blaming each other and instead commit to searching for solutions together.
Identify the stressors: what internal or external changes have occurred? These might be subtle personal shifts, so exercise as much self-awareness and honesty as you can.
Create a safe environment: set a strict time frame and a neutral place (away from children) to talk about things.
Clear communication: discuss the ‘rules’ of how you will share (i.e. taking turns to speak/not interrupting). Ask clarifying questions to make sure you understand. Reflect back to each other what you hear.
Respect: remember that you are partners and are together for a reason. Speak and act with care. Owning what you say, using ‘I’ statements, rather than ‘you’ statements, immediately calms things down.
Express your own feelings: write them down, and share them with a trusted friend or therapist. It’s important to release and process what you’re going through separately.
Some aspects of your partner may never change, which may mean being more accepting and lowering expectations. However, both people have the ability to learn new skills – for better listening, communicating and loving.
Even in the darkest times, turning things around is often possible. With patience, honesty and a commitment to each other, a couple in crisis can emerge stronger and more connected than ever before.
Claire is an internationally accredited therapist working with individuals and couples at the Algarve Therapy Centre
Eye Development in Children
Did you know that learning to use your eyes is a skill we develop over time? We are not born with fully developed vision. Just like learning to talk or walk, mastering the visual skills we rely on throughout the day requires practice and time.
If you have a baby or a young child, there are several ways you can support the healthy development of their vision, such as offering toys that encourage them to use their eyes.
What your baby sees in the first six months
In the early months, a baby’s vision consists of blurry shapes, lights and shadows. They can focus best on objects that are about 15 to 20 cm away – the perfect distance to look at the face of whoever is holding them. Over time, their vision becomes clearer as their central vision develops. Parents can assist in this process by following these tips:
• Surround them with vibrant colours. Although it takes a few months for babies to fully see colours, once they do, they will enjoy looking at bright, colourful objects like a mobile over the crib.
• Stimulate visual tracking by moving objects in front of their eyes.
• Play peek-a-boo games to encourage them to practice focusing.
Notable progress between six and 12 months
Eye-hand coordination starts to develop around six months of age. This is a great time to introduce colourful objects that babies can grab and explore. As they start to crawl or walk, their coordination will improve even further.
Peek-a-boo games may lose their charm during this stage as the child begins to understand object permanence. Once they have figured out the “magic”, it’s time to introduce new challenges, such as hiding toys under a blanket for them to find.
Further developments in childhood
As they continue to grow, children enhance their coordination by learning to walk and play with toys like balls. Two key factors in developing visual skills are balance and understanding. As they learn to speak, they start naming the objects they see and interact with. By the age of two, many children begin expressing themselves artistically. It’s important to provide them with materials like pencils and paper. Toys like wooden blocks that can be stacked and moved are also excellent for promoting their development.
+351 937 596 679 www.ClaireLinley.com
João Albano, Advance Eye Care Orthoptics Bsc(Hons) PGDip(Optometry), MBA
WORDS João Albano-Algarvisão
WORDS Claire Linley
ALGARVE THERAPY CENTRE
A calm and compassionate environment with effective techniques for relaxation, healing, and deeper insights.
Claire Linley - Internationally Certied Therapist 25 years experience
Algarve Therapy Centre Lagos Tel: 937 596 679 www.ClaireLinley.com
Fit to Fish
WORDS Ann de Jongh
The World Championships in shore Angling for Ladies, which this year takes place in Spain, starts on 16 November. Natasha Seremenho is representing Portugal for the fifth time (previously winning gold in 2017 and silver in 2019, both times in South Africa). There are six ladies on the Portuguese team, and they compete both individually and for the team.
This type of fishing involves casting around 100–150m out to sea. The further you can cast, the better your chances of catching more fish. The competition takes place over five days, with two days of training before. Each day is normally around six hours on the beach and can involve walking several kilometres with all your equipment. It is a lot more physical than you first might realise. For that reason, Natasha has been training with me for the last six months to increase her strength and fitness. As you know, I am a keen golfer and train to play better golf, and the similarities between the two sports and what you need to work on in the gym are very similar. During this time, we have worked on getting stronger and more explosive. It is not just about getting a stronger core but also about building strength in the legs and the upper body.
How to stop procrastinating
The motion involved in casting is a pushpull movement, so we have incorporated this into Natasha’s training plan. We have used a lot of the medicine ball explosive moves that I use in my golf training, as these are similar to the movements used when casting. Anything we can do to help increase the length Natasha can cast can help in her pursuit of a second gold.
It has been great working with Natasha and gaining a much greater insight into her sport. In addition to all the training, Natasha spends around 50 hours making all the rigs she needs to take with her to cover all the different outcomes. That takes some dedication.
There is always so much that goes on behind the scenes in any sport and shore angling is no different.
If you want to know more about the world championships, you can go to www.fips-m. org
www.fit2lovelife.com
WORDS Claire Vanessa
Fear of failure: when faced with challenging tasks, our brain may trigger stress, leading us to avoid the task to prevent feeling inadequate. This is often linked to anxiety and perfectionism, where the fear of judgment causes delay, and postponing gives a false sense of safety.
Poor time management: people often underestimate how long a task will take, thinking they can finish it at the last minute. Instant gratification, a dopamine-based mechanism, also plays a role: our brains prefer immediate rewards, like scrolling social media, over the delayed satisfaction of completing important tasks and reaching long-term goals.
– which can also cause us to delay the task. So, how do we stop procrastinating?
Mindfully accept the situation and identify the cause. Be kind to yourself: feeling guilty or worthless will only paralyse you more. Break tasks into smaller steps. Large tasks can feel overwhelming but breaking them into smaller, manageable chunks makes it easier to start.
Set clear deadlines and stick to them. Selfimposed deadlines create urgency, so stay disciplined when meeting them.
Procrastination is something many of us experience, with us often putting off tasks we know we should complete. While it may seem like laziness, it’s rooted in deeper psychological factors. www.clairevanessa.com
burden of having many unfinished items.
Prioritise long-term rewards. Challenge your beliefs about temporary discomfort and remind yourself of the longterm benefits of completing a task. Focus on the joy and pride it will bring you once finished.
But gift yourself short-term rewards, too. Yes, after working two hours on your task, you totally deserve that ice cream.
Limit distractions. Identify what commonly diverts your attention, whether it’s your phone, social media or other stimuli. Set up a workspace that minimises these distractions.
The brain: finally, our brains are naturally wired to steer us away from discomfort and pain – whether physical, like going to the gym, or psychological, like having a tough conversation
Use the two-minute rule. If a task will take less than two minutes, do it right away. This prevents small tasks from piling up and reduces the mental
By understanding the root causes of procrastination and applying effective strategies to overcome it, we can break the habit, boost our efficiency and achieve our goals, fostering both personal growth and a sense of accomplishment.
Ann de Jongh is a health and wellbeing coach
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Today, the rich history can be explored in the book ‘Claus Porto 130 Anos’. It features images of completed and unfinished labels, as well as studies of potential font families.
The journey of two iconic brands
The pioneering company of perfumes and soaps in Portugal.
One was a chemist, and the other an importer. They combined their expertise and established Porto in 1887 to create Portugal’s first soap and perfume factory. Both German nationals, Ferdinand Claus and Georges Schweder, embarked on this innovative venture to make perfumes and soaps more accessible.
Later, a third key figure joined the brand. Achilles de Brito started as a bookkeeper, or as it’s known today, an accountant for Claus & Schweder, in 1903. Five years later, he became a partner in the company. In 1916, after Germany declared war on Portugal and the country entered the First World War, the two founders decided to leave Portugal due to the tension caused by the conflict.
The Claus & Schweder factory was nationalised during the First World War, and in 1918, Achilles de Brito purchased the company, which would become known as Ach Brito. In 1924, the Ach Brito group finally acquired the assets of the former Claus & Schweder, marking the beginning of a new phase with two distinct brands: Ach
Brito, focused on the national market, and Claus Porto, aimed at the international market. This commercial strategy remains in place to this day.
One company, two brands, one single purpose.
The merit of the two brands led them to be recognised and rewarded abroad and in Portugal. The factories grew and celebrated their 50th anniversary with the presence of the then President of the Republic, Américo Thomaz.
A remarkable display of creativity and forwardthinking, the factory building gave birth to a lithograph through innovation and strategic vision. All labels were produced in-house, by hand, with the specialised touch of commercial artists – the term of the time for graphic design professionals. The company quickly realised that well-crafted packaging with appealing colours drew more attention from buyers. Thirty commercial artists worked on creating the most beautiful packaging, some inspired by the Belle Époque, others reflecting Portuguese daily life.
Ach Brito and Claus Porto products have undoubtedly entered many homes over the years. The company has remained committed to offering quality products at affordable prices, particularly the Ach Brito range, making them readily available in various retail outlets. Inspired by the opera singer Adelina Patti, the Patti soap has become well-known in Portugal along with the Lavanda cologne and the Musgo Real aftershave.
All great ideas have at least one mentor; in this case, there were four generations.
In 1994, the 4th generation of the Brito family joined the business: Aquiles and Sónia. At the young age of 22, Aquiles boldly embraced the challenge of leading the company. Without his proactive attitude, Ach Brito might have been nothing more than a memory from the past.
When Aquiles began his career, he encountered a challenging period. After Portugal joined the EEC, many Portuguese people believed that foreign products were superior to those made in Portugal. Despite his youth and inexperience, Aquiles boldly decided to take the Claus Porto brand (a product of Portugal) abroad, focusing on the United States and Canada. It was a brilliant strategy!
Today, the Portuguese people appreciate their national products and recognise the high quality of what is made in Portugal. Ach Brito, Claus Porto, and Confiança (one of the country’s oldest soap factories, acquired by Ach Brito in 2009) have gained significant recognition, both nationally and internationally. Claus Porto now operates three stores in Portugal: two in Lisbon and one in Porto, which serves as the flagship store. In 2018, a shop was opened in New York, meticulously designed to evoke the essence of Portugal. However, during the pandemic, they decided to close that shop and open a new one in Tokyo, Japan.
All great ideas have at least one mentor; in this case, they had the support of an entire country.
Ach Brito and Claus Porto products are available at mardestorias.com info@mardestorias.com +351 282 792 165
Claus Porto & Ach Brito:
WORDS Tania Soares
Half a Century of Culinary Excellence at
Fortaleza
Fortaleza da Luz in Praia da Luz celebrates its 50th year by winning TripAdvisor’s highest accolade!
This year, Fortaleza da Luz has been honoured with TripAdvisor’s Best of the Best award, placing it in the top 1% of reviewed dining destinations worldwide. This prestigious award is a fitting birthday present for the iconic restaurant, which coincidentally celebrates its 50th anniversary this year.
Proprietor Luc St John Webb expressed his gratitude for this recognition from the world’s most influential food and travel guide: “I’m so proud to receive this award, especially in this milestone year.”
The culinary history started for Fortaleza when the 17th century fort was converted into a restaurant in 1974 by a US couple. The Fiskes enlisted Mike Rothwell and his wife Isabel Barroso to manage their new establishment until 1984. Luc marked this important anniversary earlier in the year by having lunch with Isabel. “It was a great honour to celebrate this date with one of the original founders,” he remarked.
Luc’s father, Brian, first discovered Praia da Luz in 1986 while searching for a location to run a restaurant. Previously, he had successfully managed Keith Floyd’s restaurant Floyd’s in Bristol for many years. On his visit, he fortuitously came across the neglected fort and saw its potential to become a firstclass dining venue. Ever since, Fortaleza da Luz has remained a family-run business.
It was at this time, the restaurant’s renowned Jazz Lunch started; held every Sunday, it has become a ‘must attend’ event and is regularly booked well in advance.
Set against the historic fortress, the restaurant offers stunning views of the rugged Algarve coastline. The beautifully restored fort, with its romantic vaulted interior and meticulously landscaped
gardens, has become one of Luz’s most iconic landmarks.
Built in 1670 to protect the local church and villagers from marauding pirates, the fortress originally featured a battery of cannons on the ramparts aimed out to sea. These attackers frequently raided Algarve’s coastal villages, looting and capturing residents to sell as slaves.
After extensive military use, the fortress eventually fell into disrepair and was auctioned by the government in 1894. It was purchased by Sr. Marreiros Neto, then mayor of Lagos, who had fallen in love with the building while restoring the nearby church. He converted the upstairs into a private residence and often travelled on horseback from Lagos to Luz for leisurely weekends. The downstairs, which is now the restaurant, once served as stables.
The recent TripAdvisor accolade is a testament to the restaurant’s consistent excellence and is based on a high volume of 5-star reviews from visitors over the past year. Since its inclusion on TripAdvisor in 2010, Fortaleza da Luz has garnered over 2,000 reviews of visitors who want to share their experiences.
This success reflects the hard work of the talented chef Helio Espinosa, manager Rubia Mello and their dedicated team.
“I’d like to take this opportunity to thank our valued guests for their wonderful reviews over the past year. Without their support, none of this would have been possible,” concluded Luc, who, with three young children, is committed to keeping the family flag flying above Fortaleza for many years to come.
Sadler's Property
Celebrates New Partnership
On 16 October, Sadler´s Property celebrated its new partnership with Knight Frank. Sadler’s will now be branded as Sadler´s Property Knight Frank.
Knight Frank is one of the largest independent real estate agencies in the world. Headquartered in London, England, Knight Frank’s global network has more than 488 offices across 57 territories. Sadler´s Property has worked as a representative in their international network since 2005, but this autumn, the decision has been made that it would further benefit all of their clients for Sadler’s to become a co-branded partner.
This exciting new move further strengthens Sadler´s presence in the Algarve region. The new relationship enhances their ability to provide exceptional global property services through Knight Frank, offering unmatched global expertise and local market insights.
Colleagues, clients and friends joined Nick Sadler at the beautiful Fortaleza in Praia da Luz to mark this exciting new chapter for his company and the western Algarve property market. Guests were treated to a fantastic buffet courtesy of chef Helio Espinosa and cocktails. Knight Frank partner Alex Koch de Gooreynd, who runs the Portugal desk from their head office in Baker Street, London, gave guests an update on the European market. The event was also attended by João Pinto Marques and Sofia Baptista from Knight Frank´s Lisbon partners Quintela e Penalva.
Currency made simple
Sweet Potato Curry
WORDS Lalitana Vegan Kitchen
I grew up with sweet potatoes, and I love them. So, I decided to make a sweet potato recipe, which you can eat as a dish or a side dish.
Sweet potato cultivation in Portugal has a long tradition. The Aljezur region has the perfect conditions for good-quality sweet potatoes: sandy soil, an oceanic climate, and the proximity of the river Mira. Every November there is the Festival da Batata Doce in Aljezur. Visiting and trying the various sweet potato flavours is a pleasant culinary journey.
Ingredients for four people
• 2 sweet big potatoes
• 1 onion
• 4 garlic gloves
• 1 small piece of ginger
• 6 cherry tomatoes
• 1 cup of red lentils
Preparation
• 1 tsp of coconut oil
• 2 cups of water
• 1 can of coconut milk
• 1 tsp cumin powder
• ½ tsp coriander
• ½ tsp turmeric
• Salt, pepper or chilli
First, remove the skin of the sweet potato, cut it into small cubes, and set it aside. Chop the onion and garlic, cut the cherry tomatoes in half, and wash the lentils. Prepare all the spices and set them aside.
Cooking
Put the coconut oil in the pan, add the onion, and stir fry until golden. Add the garlic and ginger, fry for a few minutes, add the red lentils, two cups of water and all the spices, and stir-fry slowly for 10 minutes. Now add the sweet potato cubes and the coconut milk and let it cook, stirring once a while, until the potatoes are soft. At the end, add salt, pepper or chilli to taste.
Tip
Instead of putting the potatoes in the refrigerator, store them in a cool and dry place inside a paper bag. Refrigeration at a cold temperature will turn starch into sugar more quickly, leaving you with a too-sweet and hard potato.
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An Autumnal Orange
WORDS Candace Olsen
Cur-ti-menta, curtimenta – literal meaning ‘tanning’ – the Portuguese word for orange wine, skin-fermented wine, amber wine and ramato (copper in Italian). Aka delicious!
This ancient winemaking technique involves extending the maceration of the juice from white grapes with the grape skins. The result is a unique, dynamic and versatile white wine that’s made like a red wine.
Skin-fermented wines are incredibly popular these days the world over. The colour and the often-unfiltered haze can still be polarising or off-putting to newcomers, but they do, and will, spark conversation and discovery. Amber wine could even be your new fave wine for those who like dry wines with a bit of chew on the palate or texture and lively acidity! And for those of you solely dedicated to red wines, this could be a potential bridge to the land of sunset orange, lemon sherbet and copper penny wines.
Curtimenta is a type of wine that some might consider as the ’original’ wine. It has a history that dates back 5,000+ years all the way to what is known as ‘the cradle of wine’ in ancient Mesopotamia, now known as Georgia. Originally, these wines were fermented in large underground clay vessels called qvevri (‘kev-ree). They are still made this way in Georgia, Slovenia and parts of north-eastern Italy but they are also made in Portuguese talhas, stainless steel vats, wood barrels and large open-top plastic fermentation tanks.
The unusual hues found in orange wines are a result of the type of white wine grape, the duration of skin contact and exposure to oxygen. These wines are not sweet, but
can be fruity or savoury and present a bold flavour profile. They can have honeyed aromas like marmalade, bruised apple, pear, dried apricot and orange rind. Some even offer herbaceous notes, sweet spices, chamomile, juniper and beeswax.
This unique taste profile is sure to pique your curiosity and make you eager to experience the world of orange wines.
Wine of the month
For this month’s wine, I chose the Algarve’s own Morgado do Quintão’s freshly bottled and hot off the labelling and wax dipping line, 2021 Branco/Curtimenta (pictured). They don’t make it every year and the number of bottles is limited, so it’s best to snatch a bottle or three up now!
The wine comes from a forgotten 80-year-old vineyard on the estate where the vines grow between olive and carob trees. No one knows all the different varietals planted, but the predominant ones are Negra Mole and Boal. The wine rests for approximately 15 days in the skins and presents a shimmering and vibrant copper colour. The nose and palate are dripping with honeyed orange, marmalade, sweet pine resin, walnut skin and my favourite dried California slab apricot.
An ideal gastronomic wine, they pair well with a dizzying diversity of foods: Moroccan beef tagine, shakshuka, just about any Indian dish, Portuguese cozido de grão, or even a stacked meat and cheese board with dried fruit chez Candy! Serve at 12–14 degrees.
Hidden Gem in Lagos:
Mar d’Estórias
WORDS Peter Cruiming
Located in the historic heart of Lagos, Mar d’Estórias is a hidden gem you don’t want to miss. This unique spot offers a surprising experience that goes far beyond what you’d expect from the outside.
Stylish Shopping
The ground floor houses a beautiful store where you can find luxury tableware, stunning books, and authentic Portuguese gifts. But the real surprise is waiting upstairs.
Bistro and Rooftop with a View
You’ll discover a cosy bistro on the first floor, perfect for an intimate dinner. Climb one more flight, and you’ll reach a fantastic rooftop terrace. Here, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of both the sea and the old town. A hidden gem that’s invisible from street level.
Delicious Food
The menu at Mar d’Estórias is simple yet full of flavour. For just €3, you can enjoy a delicious soup or go for the tasty mushroom risotto for €16. Vegans can indulge in a plant-based burger for €12.50, and the tuna steak with bread (€14) or the cod with chickpeas (€19) are also highly recommended. The kitchen is led by Rafael Pacheco and Maria João Ceita, with the friendly Rui Correira as the host.
Cosy and Welcoming
The warm and welcoming staff adds to the relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere at Mar d’Estórias, making it a perfect place to unwind. And, if you're looking for a special way to celebrate this festive season, the bistro will be hosting group dinners with a Portuguese menu, showcasing the most iconic Christmas dishes, from cod and lamb to octopus and a vegetarian option.
All-in-One Destination
Whether you’re looking for coffee, an aperitif, lunch, dinner, or a unique shopping experience, Mar d’Estórias has it all. Don’t miss out on visiting this special place in the heart of Lagos.
Address: R. Silva Lopes 30, 8600-623 Lagos
Opening Hours: Daily from 10 AM to 11 PM (Sunday until 7 PM) Please note: There is no elevator.
Peter Cruiming is the founder and restaurant critic for HotspotsAlgarve.com
That Asian Home Cook
Spicy Fish Sauce Air-Fried Chicken
I’ve wanted to share this recipe for a while now, and I’ve finally got my act together to perfect it for you. This is a Vietnameseinspired chicken that is air-fried – so much easier and healthier. I love that you can prep and leave the chicken in the air fryer to cook your rice and veggies and come back to it when it beeps! This chicken is punchy and spicy with dried chillies and fish sauce in the marinade. Super fragrant (for me, at least) when the entire kitchen fills up with the aromas of your chicken caramelising with all these umami flavours.
INGREDIENTS
• 2 pieces of chicken thigh, deboned
• 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
• 2 stalks of spring onion finely sliced
• 2 shallots, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tbsp chilli flakes
• 2 tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tsp salt
• 1 tbsp oil
INSTRUCTIONS
Marinade your chicken thighs with all the above ingredients for at least one to two hours. If you can marinate your chicken overnight in the fridge, there is just so much more oomph when the flavours are given time to penetrate.
Whenever you are ready to eat, bring your chicken pieces to room temperature before you place them in the air fryer. Cook for 20 minutes at 200oC. I don’t even bother to flip my chicken over halfway, but if you like, you can do so. If you do not have an air fryer, you
can pan-fry your chicken for around 3–4 minutes on each side.
Serve with steamed white rice and a side of fish sauce cabbage (recipe in sidebar) with some cucumbers to cut the spice.
ON THE SIDE: FISH SAUCE CABBAGE
• 1 cup of cabbage, chopped
• 2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
• 1 pinch of white pepper
• ½ tsp fish sauce
This has to be one of my go-to recipes for a stir-fry vegetable. It’s so simple it will take you less than five minutes! All you need to do is sauté the garlic until fragrant, then add the cabbage and fish sauce. Stir for three to four minutes, or until cabbage is slightly wilted and the fish sauce is caramelised.
This side will take your fish sauce chicken dish just one step further.
Joy Entry is a Malaysian home cook based in Lagos who is obsessed with the provocative, unapologetic flavours of South-East Asian cuisine Instagram: @thatasianhomecook joyentry@gmail.com
Wildcats: Untamed and Unseen!
The European wildcat (Felis silvestris) is a unique species of feline that, together with the Iberian lynx, represents the only two species of wild felines living in Portugal’s wilderness.
WORDS Luis de Teves Costa
Very similar to the domesticated house cat, wildcats are a separate and much older species that evolved around 500,000 years ago. In turn, historical evidence suggests that the domestication of cats first took place 10,000 years ago in the Middle East. Ancient Egyptians continued the trend and cats have been in our houses ever since.Through centuries of selective breeding, house cats are now a species in their own right (Felis catus) and come in many different sizes and colours. But not our wildcat. Native to continental Europe and Great Britain and true to their genetic origin, wildcats show a unique and distinctive appearance that, to the untrained eye, can still just look like a large tabby cat. A large head with emerald green eyes, dark body stripes, and a thick tail with well-defined black bands and a black tip are the main recognisable features.
The favourite habitats of the European wildcat are coniferous forests (pines), deciduous forests (oaks, beeches, chestnuts) and Mediterranean shrubland. Here, preferably away from human activity, it hunts a variety of prey such as rabbits, squirrels, mice, voles, lizards and fowl. With very acute senses of smell, hearing and sight, wildcats are mainly crepuscular and nocturnal animals.
Much like other wild cats, when it is not hunting, it spends its time resting. A great climber, it is perfectly comfortable high above the ground, where it often finds comfort in tree branches and snuggles up on its own incredibly dense fur.
A solitary and highly territorial animal, the wildcat will only seek the opposite sex during mating season, which is typically late autumn or winter. Litters of three to seven kittens are born during early spring.
As it happens with so many wildlife species, the loss of habitat and hunting have been a main cause for the decline in numbers. However, wildcats face an extra, perhaps more deadly, threat called hybridisation. The genetic proximity with the house cat allows interbreeding that generates fertile hybrid descendants. Hybrid specimens can perpetuate the mix-breeding cycle, diluting the wildcat genes into extinction –a phenomenon called genetic swamping.
According to the IUCN red list of threatened species, the European wildcat is not currently classed as a threatened species when considered in its full distribution. However, in some regions, such as Portugal or Scotland, its presence is very vulnerable and at critical risk of becoming locally extinct.
In Portugal, experts estimate that there could be fewer than one hundred animals scattered across the country’s forests, but the country has yet to see a conservation project that will accurately determine the size and range of the wildcats in Portugal.
Rewilding Portugal, a private non-profit organisation established in 2019, promotes nature conservation in general by allowing nature to thrive in its own time and space. By doing this, Rewilding is slowly encouraging the return of native species to their ancestral grounds. Earlier in July, a camera trap recorded the sighting of one wildcat in the Great Côa Valley (Guarda District) in an area managed by Rewilding. This was the first confirmed sighting in the region in over 30 years.
Rewilding Portugal recognises that the wildcat is critically endangered in Portugal and desperately needs a conservation programme to protect this species in the Iberian Peninsula. Rewilding has already come forward, stating that they would be happy to support any project that sterilises feral house cats in protected areas to reduce the risk of genetic swamping.
After the success with the Iberian lynx, perhaps Portugal and Spain could, once again, join forces and save another wild cat. In fact, the president of ICNF (Portuguese Forest and Nature Conservation Agency), Nuno Banza, has confirmed that they are currently considering using the CNRLI in Silves to house a breeding programme for wildcats.
In Scotland, an exciting project called Saving Wildcats is already in motion to help the socalled highland tiger, a population of European wildcats that is “clinging on by a claw”. This collaborative conservation project is supported by organisations such as the Royal Zoological Society, the National Trust and the European Rewilding Network. The ambitious effort includes breeding in captivity to secure the release of pure specimens into selected zones, the sterilisation of feral and domestic cats near conservation areas, and the promotion of responsible pet ownership. Since 2023, 28 wildcats have been released in the Cairngorms National Park and camera traps have confirmed wild-born kittens within the release areas.
rewilding-portugal.com savingwildcats.org.uk
Why is it so difficult to tell the two species apart? They are just very similar-looking creatures!
Fun Facts
Wildcats have incredibly thick fur with as much as 20,000 hairs per square centimetre.
Interbreeding is relatively common when closely related species co-habit, being in their natural habitats or in captivity. Hybrids are often sterile but very interesting creatures. Most of us will recognise a mule as the cross between a donkey and a horse, but look out for the liger, the wholphin, the zorse or the cama. Believe me, these are all real!!
Castro Laboreiro: A Timeless Gem in Portugal’s Remote Highlands
WORDS Natercia Godinho
The history of Castro Laboreiro stretches back millennia. Archaeological evidence suggests human habitation in the area dating to the Neolithic period. The village’s strategic location near the Spanish border has shaped much of its history, as evidenced by the imposing Castro Laboreiro Castle. Perched atop a hill overlooking the village, the castle’s ruins date back to the 13th century. Built to defend the Portuguese border, it played a crucial role in mediaeval conflicts. Today, the castle offers visitors a journey through time and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.
Tucked away in the rugged mountains of northern Portugal is the majestic village of Castro Laboreiro. This ancient settlement stands at an elevation of 1000 metres within the only national park in Portugal, Peneda-Gerês. Castro Laboreiro is surrounded by a dramatic landscape with steep valleys, gorges, waterfalls, crystal-clear rivers and ancient oak forests, providing a breathtaking backdrop for the village’s historic stone houses. Legends and myths reflect the village’s cultural heritage and the imagination of its people.
The scenery transforms dramatically throughout the year. In spring and summer, the mountains are carpeted with vibrant wildflowers and fragrant herbs. Autumn paints the landscape in warm hues of gold and red, while winter often brings a serene blanket of snow, creating a stark contrast against the dark granite peaks.
Castro Laboreiro’s population hovers around 500 permanent residents, a significant decrease from its peak in the early 20th century. Like many rural areas in Portugal, the village has faced the challenges of depopulation as younger generations migrate and emigrate in search of economic opportunities.
Despite this exodus, I found that the community’s spirit remains strong. Those who have stayed maintain a deep connection to their land and traditions. The village comes alive during the summer months and holiday periods when many former residents return to their ancestral homes, temporarily swelling the population and infusing the area with renewed energy.
In the heart of the village stands the Church of Santa Maria da Visitação, a 16th-century structure that serves as the spiritual and social centre of the community. Its simple yet elegant architecture reflects the austere beauty of the region. One of the most intriguing aspects of Castro Laboreiro’s culture is the tradition of the “viúvas vivas” or “living widows”. This term refers to the women whose husbands would leave for months at a time to work as seasonal labourers in other parts of Portugal or the world. These women who wore black clothing became the backbone of the community, managing households, farms and local affairs in their husbands’ absence.
1.
Castro Laboreiro
Another fascinating aspect of life in Castro Laboreiro is the practice of seasonal migration known as transhumance, which is still practised by two local families to this day. Traditionally, villagers would move their entire households between summer pastures (brandas) at higher elevations and winter villages (inverneiras) in the valleys. This unique lifestyle, adapted to the harsh mountain environment, has largely faded but remains an important part of the area’s cultural heritage.
Walking around Castro Laboreiro, I found another local symbol, the eponymous dog breed. The Cão (dog) de Castro Laboreiro is a loyal and fierce guardian breed developed in the region. These medium-sized dogs, known for their distinctive wolf- coloured coat, have been indispensable companions to local shepherds for centuries, protecting flocks from wolves and bears.
In recent years, Castro Laboreiro has begun to embrace sustainable tourism as a means of economic revitalisation. The village’s inclusion in the Peneda-Gerês National Park has helped attract nature enthusiasts, hikers and cultural tourists. Several old houses have been converted into charming rural accommodation, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local way of life.
During my walks, I came across Senhor Manuel and his wife, D. Sara, in Aldeia das Pontes (an inverneira). Manuel emigrated to France in 1972 and returned eight years ago to care for his mother, the only person living in the village of about 20 dwellings, all in ruins. When his mother passed away, he felt obliged to honour her and all his ancestors by renovating the house where he grew up. Today, he owns eight houses which he is slowly renovating with the help of his wife.
Castro Laboreiro’s cuisine reflects its rugged mountain environment and its people’s resourcefulness. Traditional dishes often feature locally raised meats, particularly beef and goat, prepared in hearty stews or roasted over open fires. The famous carne cache, from a local cattle breed, is prized for its tenderness and flavour.
Other local specialties include smoked sausages, cornbread and dishes made with locally foraged ingredients like chestnuts and wild mushrooms. The region is also known for its artisanal cheeses, particularly the pungent Queijo da Serra, made from sheep’s milk.
As Castro Laboreiro looks to the future, it faces the challenge of balancing preservation with progress. The community is working to attract new residents and businesses while maintaining its unique character and traditions. With its timeless beauty, rich history, and resilient spirit, Castro Laboreiro stands poised to write the next chapter in its long and fascinating story.
Trails at your fingertips
The Algarve is rapidly gaining popularity as a year-round hiking destination, thanks to its diverse landscapes, peaceful trails and pleasant climate. Keen hiker Tracy Burton explores how the free Via Algarviana app continues to transform the outdoor life for residents and visitors alike.
You can follow the routes offline using the app’s mapping; however, you will need to download them online.
WORDS Tracy Burton
In May 2015, my partner Harri and I arrived in the Algarve for the first time to hike the GR13-Via Algarviana. We hadn’t yet embraced digital navigation tools, so relied entirely on a downloadable PDF guide and the red and yellow waymarks to backpack from Alcoutim to Cabo de São Vicente. Miraculously, we only lost our way once when, somewhere between Salir and Alte, we picked up waymarks going in the opposite direction and ended up walking back on ourselves.
Things have progressed dramatically since then. The Via Algarviana website has been continually updated and revised, and last year, an app was launched to assist hikers. To date, there have been around 4,700 downloads – around 50% from Portugal, with the rest from Germany, the UK, France and the Netherlands.
One of the biggest enhancements is the availability of downloadable GPX and KML mapping, along with a visual map and guide highlighting points of interest, refreshments, ATMs and useful contacts for each section.
Something which would have helped us tremendously in 2015 is the new booking section, which lists accommodation providers, places to eat, transport, guide services, luggage carriers, etc. In the more remote eastern villages, we relied on the kindness of local hosts to ring ahead
and arrange our bed for that night. The app also means no hungry walker now needs to throw themselves on the mercy of a bar owner’s wife to make them cheese sandwiches –and teach them a few basic words of Portuguese (like pão and queijo).
The Via Algarviana isn’t just popular with hikers; the 300-kilometre trail attracts mountain bikers seeking a challenge. The app recognises this and provides mapping and a breakdown of the topography for five longer sections. Though, at 76.1 kilometres, the stretch from Marmelete may leave you feeling rather saddle-sore!
Of course, not everyone wants to tackle the full distance, be it on foot or bike, and the app provides plenty of other opportunities to explore the Algarve, including:
• 12 connections or link routes (ranging from 7.3km to 29.3km)
• 18 short-distance paths (4.7km to 18km)
• 4 themed routes (smugglers, water, monumental trees and geology)
• 11 audio-guided tours in MP3 and MP4 format
It’s continually being updated, e.g. PR15 LLE
– Entre o Barrocal e a Serra, PR5 ABF – Entre Aldeias, PR2 SLV – Nos Passos do Património and Connection 12 are recent additions.
Katie Slater, who set up Hiking Algarve, said: “This nice handy app not only helps with the main route but offers shorter and interesting routes for other walkers. It’s very easy to download a GPX file and upload it to an app like Outdoor Active. The PDF leaflets are well-written and it’s nice to read more about the area, its history, geology and vegetation.”
Hike leaders Sonia and Charly Strohl find the app a good way to provide details like distance, elevation and difficulty to would-be participants. They sometimes merge two hikes together.
“I love the descriptions of the hikes, which I find are pretty accurate,” Sonia added. “I especially like the idea of the audio-guided routes, but haven’t tried one yet.”
Hiker Karen Soars agreed. ‘The Via Algarviana app has been great as I hike on my own a lot, and it has made me more confident about going out by myself. Sometimes there might be missing signs, so the app gives me an extra bit of reassurance I’ve not missed a turn!”
While the app was designed for hikers, it’s a valuable resource for everyone, with local history, cultural insights and practical details about amenities and services.
The Via Algarviana app is available in Portuguese, English, French, German and Dutch. You can download it: viaalgarviana.org/en/menu/133/download-our-free-app viaalgarviana.org
Bailey's Tours
Last month, we learned how Lindsay and Stewart Bailey fulfilled a dream by driving from Portugal to France to celebrate Lindsay´s birthday in July. This month, we read about their return journey along the coast of Spain.
We started our homeward journey in a fantastic resort called Sitges just south of Barcelona, inadvertently driving the wrong way down a one-way street trying to reach parking for the Hotel Medium Sitges. Our nerves were revived by a lovely stroll through the town (two minutes from the hotel) and we found the beautiful beach, still full at 7 pm.
The next day, we had a lovely drive to Denia and checked into a hotel on the seafront opposite the port. Unbelievably, we managed to repeat yesterday’s fiasco with an inaccessible car park and once again went the wrong way down a oneway street. I expect the Spanish police will turn up at some point to arrest us! England was playing in the Euros that evening, so we found a bar and watched the match. We had a long, hot drive to Málaga the next day, so we started early.
We had the usual difficulty in getting to the hotel. This time, we had to get into the garage via a car elevator, which was a first for us. After breakfast, we walked into the city determined to find the main shopping street, which we remembered from a previous visit. We came across the fresh fish market, which was fantastic, although the shops proved harder to find.. After what felt like hours, we needed refreshment, so we found a bar and perched on high stools, eating tapas.
After a small siesta back at the hotel, we set off again. It was around 8.30pm and the city was very busy. A little later, we heard brass band music, so we made our way to the main street where there was a parade with a priest at the front and someone carrying a cross. It turns out it was the city’s saint’s day, the festival of San Ciriaco and Santa Paula. At this point, we decided to become Spanish and ate at 11 pm! Around midnight, the city went crazy, with people wearing football shirts cheering and whooping. There were cars driving around beeping their horns and crowds of people cheering. We discovered the Málaga football team had just been promoted to the Spanish football league. The celebrations were still going on as we made our way back to the hotel around 2 am. Málaga did not disappoint.
Leaving Málaga, we drove along the coast through the popular resorts of Torremolinos, Benalmadena, and Fuengirola. As we passed Estepona, we slowed down to pay our respects to the late Cilla Black, who died there. From there, we headed towards La Linea, the crossing point for Gibraltar. We managed to get a great view without getting caught up in any traffic jams, which often happens.
From there, we made our way to Tarifa, the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar. Lindsay was amazed North Africa was so close. I had sailed through the Strait many times during my time in the Royal Navy, but had never seen it from land, so I was thrilled. After Tarifa, we drove past miles of packed beaches. On this very windy Sunday, the sea was full of windsurfers and kitesurfers. It was lovely sight.
Then it was onto Jerez, the sherry capital of Spain. For once, we found the hotel without any problems. Two minutes from the hotel, we found the main square. We then strolled through the quiet streets, passing horse-drawn carriages. As in Málaga, the local football team had been promoted, so cars were driving around beeping their horns, albeit slightly less noisily.
We heard music and wandered off the main thoroughfare. We found a small square lined with chairs, a small stage with someone playing music, and several people dancing. They were mostly older ladies, but their movements suggested they had probably been flamenco dancers when they were younger.
The following day, we left for our final leg: 227 miles to our home in Praia da Luz.
This holiday was a really good adventure for two septuagenarians. We travelled 2,735.3 miles and achieved an average of 56 mpg in our 13-year-old Nissan Note, which we brought with us from England when we emigrated in 2016. Due to our advancing years, this is very probably the last driving holiday that we will take. We both enjoyed the planning to make sure it worked out well. We loved being together for 15 long, long days. Our trip ranks alongside all of our fantastic adventures.
