BAJA MEXICO “Soul-Tuning Ride”
Story by Simon Bois a.k.a “Night Train” www.facebook.com/floridanighttrain Sponsored by: Bell Powersports www.BellPowersports.com Icicles High Performance Eyewear www.Icicles.com I don’t like conventional. I detest being restrained or the feeling of being put in a mold by the monotony of everyday routine. I don’t like doing the same thing over and over again. I like an edge in life because it keeps me feeling alive. So as I sat in a comfortable, but stale office where my view consisted of a desk and four walls, the invitation by Baja Moto Tours’ Founder Danny Ray Marsh to tour Baja Mexico was in radical contrast to my current landscape and had my attention,
In partnership with: Baja Moto Tours www.BajaMotoTours.com Shooters Images Inc www.ShootersImages.com Tour sponsored by: EagleRider www.EagleRider.com
to say the least. A 1,600 mile “road tour” into one of the sacred world meccas of “off road” events for motorsports fanatics. Where the world famous BAJA 1,000 takes place. Where the road signs, for the most part can be considered suggestions. Where splitting lanes can become a lifesaving skill. Based on my research, no other touring company I knew of offered this all-inclusive road tour. Perhaps for good reason. This is, after all, the region
mainstream media painted as being owned by the drug Cartels - The gateway of illegal drugs and whatnot into America. While my beloved wife, family and friends’ responded by raising questions, objections and eyebrows, I was fueled with total inspiration at the prospect of this ride! Uncharted territory, risks, dangers, beauty beyond my imagination all for my eyes to experience and discover! I needed something completely radical and totally different than what is generally
available out there in terms of available organized rides. A “bucket list” kind of ride! I knew Baja Moto Tour’s offer represented experiences of a lifetime of rides around the world, but in one single trip. I was in and it wasn’t hard to convince my bike rental sponsor of choice to support the tour and provide bikes at extremely competitive rates. Founded in 1992, EagleRider is the world’s largest motorcycle travel and tourism company. EagleRider understands the needs of motorcycle enthusiasts and adventure travelers; offering over 4,000 perfectly maintained Harley, Honda®, BMW®, Triumph® and many other motorcycle models in more than 100 locations worldwide. Their vast network of EagleRider locations allows for a unique ability to offer One-Way Rentals, Guided Tours and SelfDrive Tours from the most desirable tourist destinations in the world. With that said I wasn’t the only member of this thrill-seeking fraternity. Joining me and rounding out the tour was: • Kelly - A California, USA based 65 year old tough SOB, yet gentle war veteran who toured more than 35 countries on motorcycles. • Dave (a.k.a. “Naked Dave”) - A high ranked Canadian trucking executive, father of two. By far one of the most skillful and
experienced within the group. • Montana - A wild at heart and free spirited former female body builder based in Montana, USA. This chick can ride harder than many of the toughest riders I know out there! • Robyn - A young and reflective female Executive on a spiritual journey based out of Florida, USA. • Cory - A young tattoo-covered veteran and loving father also based in Montana, USA. Still exploring life in all its’ facets. • Raul – An ambassador of the “Californios MC” in Baja Mexico and his spouse Martha, on a mission to teach English to young students in all of Baja. • Danny (a.k.a “Pit Bull”) - Our fearless guide with 10 plus years of experience leading group tours in Baja, Mexico. Danny was raised for part of his life in Baja Mexico. He is founder of www. bajamototours.com and is based out of Montana, USA. • Don (a.k.a. “Don Chicago”) – Our Chicago, USA based photographer who needs no introduction. Our group could only have dreamed of a “photog” like him. Don is Founder of Shooters
Images Inc. www.shootersimages.com and has been published in more high profile biker magazines than I have space to list here. And then there was me: • Simon (a.k.a. “Night Train” but the group decided on “Cave Man” for my perceived antiquated views) – Based in Florida, husband and father of three, corporate sales executive / motorsport photojournalist. Our 1,600 Mile Route: All riders met in San Diego, CA USA and went through the Mexican border in Tijuana by van. This Baja Moto Tours dream ride started at 8am sharp in “Tecate” the day after and then on to “Esenada” (“La Bufadora”), to “San Quintin”, to “El Rosario”, to “Catavina”, to “Guerrero Negro”, to “San Ignacio”, to “Santa Rosalia”, to “Mulege”, to our final destination in “Loreto” and back. Weapons of choice consisted of a Fat Boy, a Wide Glide, a few Street Glides, an Electra Glide, Buells and a BMW GS800. Armors of choice included helmets of course, a solid pair of high performance shades, leathers, bandanas, gloves, tanning lotion, water and, an open mind loaded with a positive attitude. Our introduction to Baja, Mexico was comprised of ruthless desert lands, rugged red earth, rocky landscapes and merciless winds. Delicious ceviche dishes, fresh sea food daily, accompanied by colorful beverages, made one dream of not coming back home! Then there were
those scorching sandy winds which stung our faces as we rode 70mph, forcing us to wear facial bandanas as nomads do. Road side memorials everywhere reminded us of the fragility of life. Paradisiac, lush, blue turquoise lagoons awaited on the coasts as we descended barrier-less roads, narrowly nesting on the edges of ravines, several thousands of feet above the massive “Sea of Cortés”, which roared against the Baja peninsula cradled in the majestic Pacific Ocean. This is where Montana decided to grace us all with a “Bo Derek” style scene from the movie “Ten”. Going in for a dip all dressed, she emerged from the surf onto the beach with her knee-high black leather boots. I felt ten years old again. From unforgiving daily temperatures ranging from 100 to 115+ degrees to low 60’s at night, you had to be prepared. The local gas stations in some remote areas will fill your horse up with hand-siphoned gas coming out of barrels. Thank goodness Baja Moto Tours had the route planned down to a science! Not a single worry about food, lodging, gas or anything whatsoever. Just sit on that bike, follow the guide and enjoy the scenery. It was sweet for the soul. At various stop points we were searched by stern military service personnel in full gear, carrying machine guns and grenades as they kept a look-out for drug traffic. At other times they treated us like rock stars just because we were riding. Despite their attempts at maintaining their best poker-face, you could sense their concealed excitement at the sight of our rides. The Mexicans definitely showed respect for riders.
On a side note, I have to point out Mexican women clearly preferred my dark Fat Boy. It was the only bike of the flock that became the subject of their requests for pictures. Rich, vibrant and colorful Mexican architecture was a refreshing feast for our eyes. Skinny and boney dogs, horses and cows or even dead carcasses were common sights in the fields. Baja Moto Tours made sure we stopped at every point of interest
“...At other times they treated us like rock stars just because we were riding. “ and it was perfect for everyone’s tastes. Dusty children rode horses to go to school or would simply walk bare foot for miles. Those images combined with the villages of “plank-shack residential structures” made me realize how pampered we really are in every way back home. Yet strangely these people appeared convincingly happier than many North of the Mexican border. There is a simplicity to their lives which feels like it has been robbed from us all stuck in the rat race. The children for the most part looked more confident, bold, courageous and full of vigor than the average North American child. In reflection I scribbled in my journal; “Are the materially rich truly “rich”? What is the true meaning of “rich”? Have we all bought into the virtual idea that material comfort equals richness? Is being “materially rich” what constitutes the health of my soul and where it is headed?” While the “Chicas” sun-bathed around the hotel pool laying right next to their rides, Raul, Danny and myself met with the Mayor of Loreto, “Mr. Jorge
Alberto Avilés Pérezfor”, and his team for a three hour breakfast. On the agenda: 1. English teaching program for children in Baja schools and 2. How to throw a Baja, Mexico version of Daytona Bike Week using Baja Moto Tours’ expertise. As a welcome gesture, the local school officials and children spontaneously sang their national anthem for us. Result? With the Mayor’s kind support, Raul is making good progress for his English teaching program and as far as “Baja Bike Week” goes, we have all the resources we need to coordinate. What say you? All this hard work followed by more hard work; a joy ride 30 miles West of Loreto into the deep rocky valleys of “San Javier” to visit a 303 year old stone-built church. The “San Javier Mission” is where they still make elixir-tasting wine the old fashion way. That’s where Cory solemnly lit candles in loving memory of his late father and his late brother. The dead remains of past clergy buried under the building probably threw a party to welcome Cory’s gesture. The camaraderie and chemistry of the group was ideal. Baja Moto Tours’ daily focus was for respect, integrity, honesty and safety to become the genuine collective attitude. No one was to be left alone. It had to be that way. The rides were intense in terms of weather and road conditions. There is a desert region between “El Gerrerro Negro” and “San Ignatio”, where an average of 80mph to 110mph in approximately 110 degrees temp for a steady 70 mile stretch is the norm. I remember all of us at the end of that stretch stopping for water. When we all took our shades off we looked like raccoons with grins going from ear to ear. I mean the experience was so intensely awesome to me that when I got off my bike I shouted kind of like a victory scream. Looking at me at that moment was Danny; “I told ya” he said proudly. To me it was a “Baja Baptism”. I came back alive and well and I will tell you however this ride is not for the faint of heart nor for the novice or egotistical rider. It is however a perfect ride for the ones thirsty for adventure, respectfully aware of the elements and prepared to adapt. There are dangers in Mexico, for sure, but it is only relative to how mentally prepared you are, just like any other ride. Drugs? Violence? Have not seen a single hint or felt threatened in any way shape or form at anytime. Four riders laid their bikes and
sadly but not surprisingly, the incidents were preventable. One of those incidents included the tragic loss of one of the participants; my best riding buddy, Dave. One minute I saw him in my mirror and the next, he was nowhere to be seen. It was not because of those perceived inherent Mexican dangers. It was another danger far more insidious. The autopsy showed “dehydration” and “signs of heat stroke”. Dave passed-out while riding. His helmetless head was hit hard but the cause of death was a “broken neck”. He and the family would concur it was because of a lesson we riders all need to continue to remember; anticipate safety issues and ride accordingly. Robyn and I were the first to find Dave’s lifeless body at mile marker #174. We were all only approximately 50 miles South of our next overnight stop in “El Rosario”. It was 1pm local time. Those moments where I was seized by adrenaline, incessantly screaming his name as if I could bring him back to life against the backdrop of Robyn crying towards the blue heavens have been engraved in my mind forever. We believe logic reason demands careful consideration to the possibility that had he been wearing a helmet, perhaps the extra inch of padding would have amortized the impact on his neck and saved him. He leaves behind precious and beautiful children; Kayla (18) and Josh (24). RIP “Naked Dave”. This event was going to completely ruin the trip or, bring the group even closer as a unit. The seeds of mutual respect Baja Moto Tours planted in the group came to fruition at that time and the latter happened. The morning after, we saw a flat tire that was not quite a flat … yet. Both walls on the front tire of Cory’s Wide Glide were severely dried-out and cracked. Due to the remote location and time constraints we were in, the whole group’s togetherness was tested to the limits at that point. Especially since it was the morning after Dave’s accident. Understandably, Cory was quite disappointed. The group discussed as a group and voted as a group. Naturally, a decision was made leaning more towards
safety than unnecessary risk. With Danny’s outstanding leadership, the group turned to the single most experienced rider of us all for additional insight; Kelly. Kelly’s wise counsel was obvious, all decided to leave Cory’s bike behind. I would suggest the group came through better than any reality show will ever portray. Montana also got a flat tire a few days prior. I will never forget the search for a service shop in Loreto. Even that was a complete blast! Thanks to Baja Moto Tours’ preparedness, we found one. A father and son’s operation which came in 2nd place for the Baja 500 buggystyle race (so they said) – Montana’s bike was in good hands. As I walked into this colorful garden of wrecked steel
and antique two, three or four wheeled motorized beasts, I had to take a deep breath to take it all in. It is a strange beauty only to be appreciated by those of us motorheads. Unassuming mechanics sat in the dark night listening to loud distorted sounds of Latin music. “What’s in the old broken freezer? Beer?” I said in Spanish as I walked in eyes scanning everything in sight like a radar. “Nope. The stereo.” They said laughing. I opened it and in disbelief, the stereo was nestled right there in the freezer! In the background there was Danny standing there again with his “I told ya” grin. Before leaving for this ride I knew I would come back a different soul. I did and I believe my companions did too. The locals look at you differently when you return from that trip. It is as if unspoken words of mutual respect are exchanged
From left to right: Raul, Luis Enrrique Leal, Dir. Social Comm. Loreto, Hon. Jorge Alberto Aviles Perezfor, Mayor of Loreto, Night Train, Danny, Founder of Baja Moto Tours
From Left to Right: Dave “Naked Dave”, Cory, Robyn, Night Train, Raul once they know you have been through their land. Maybe it’s because a smart human being will come back from such a ride with a better outlook on life all together and the locals know it? Maybe Danny was right after all when he said “Baja will change you”? Two of the most vivid memories of “mere beauty” were on the East coast South of “Santa Rosalia”. Hundreds and hundreds of yellow and fire-orange butterflies hovering above ground gave the illusion I was becoming part of a surreal Van Gogh’s painting. Walking into a packed church service in a church built by Gustave Eiffel (Builder of the Eiffel Tower) in Santa Rosalia. And then the penetrating yet loving look of children is a searing and timeless beauty that will brand the most hardened of hearts. As I sit back in my comfortable office chair on this side of the trip I find myself missing my companions more than words can express. We are still in touch regularly without exception and there is not a day that goes by where I just wish I could do it again. So much laughter was shared in the group from Dave being nick named “Naked Dave”, Don nick-
named “Don Chicago” during my burnout in “San Ignatio” accompanied by the locals’ cheers and followed by the frowning but forgiving local authorities, Montana’s debatable table manners etc… Kelly’s and Cory’s true colors as vets coming out during adversity supporting the group like pillars. This ride was the most memorable ride ever for me. I and every member of the group would do it again, including “Naked Dave” I am certain. The meaningful conversations held between riders in the midst of this magical part of the world helped re-energize the core of hearts. Not to mention a swim at 3am in the hotel pool doing cannon balls after cannon balls without worries of bothering anyone. It helps you realize all those idiosyncrasies you deal with back home, be it with your supervisors, co-workers, spouse or what not are far from being as bad as your emotions like to lead you into believing. You just can’t help but laugh at how trivial those situations really are. It’s kind of like when I saddle up on my Night Train riding into the Floridian sunset. Be it on the Atlantic or Gulf coast, riding always brings healthy reflection or pauses. The contrast of one experience with
everyday life can help provide rich lessons to be learned for an attentive mind. One landscape or experience will reveal the beauty of the other. Baja Moto Tours helped me experience all that and more. Thanks Danny! Baja Moto Tours is clearly the single most experienced all inclusive touring company specialized in all inclusive Baja Mexico road tours offering mid to high-end luxury packages at very aggressive competitive rates. Baja Moto Tours also offers packages in Alaska, Montana and Sturgis. For a chance to win a full week rental with EagleRider, visit and “Like” the following Facebook pages; www.facebook.com/ bajamototours, www.facebook. com/floridanighttrain and www. facebook.com/katesdon. Winner will be announced on www. facebook.com/floridanighttrain June 30th, 2013. Reading an entry from my journal, I find myself hanging on to memories I refuse to let go as if it helped me to mentally detach from my cold office; “BAJA is good for the soul of a rider. If you think you know it all, if you think you can do anything without anyone or if you have an ego the size of an elephant, BAJA will help cure that.”
Simon Bois a.k.a “Night Train” (www.facebook.com/floridanighttrain ) is proudly Sponsored by: