Estetica SA 18th Edition

N° 18/12 EDITION

18

THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

TRENDS Colour palette FEATURE Men’s grooming techniques, styling tips and fashion trends INTERVIEW Rossano Ferretti Anthony Mascolo

1 8 TH E D I T I O N 2012

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C O N T E N T ESTETICA No.18/2012 – EIGHTEENTH EDITION 2012

Picture supplied by Schwarzkopf Professional Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton

Lightweight creative. Dandy whimsical, cinematic appeal. Dazzling colours, fairy-tale features. Once upon a time...

Chief Sub-Editor Sheheema Albertyn-Burton Design Jayne Mace

Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za CONTRIBUTORS Printers Paarl Media Paarl

contents 2.indd 2

FASHION

10

Catwalks

Fashion Week

16

Looks

Hollywood Intrigue

20

Trends

Colour Palette

25

Accessories

Wintery Forecast

27

Beauty

Women

29

Beauty

Men

30

Trends

Great Grooming

34

Catwalks

Modern Men

43

Vision

Creative Simplicity

48

Vision

Sensual Liberation

2012/06/15 1:28 PM

Today good grooming means more than a cut and shave.

Relax and pamper yourself.

MODA:

INTERNATIONAL

TRENDS

PROFESSIONAL

54 Urban Style

96

Competition

68 High Society

97

Feature

76 Dreaming

98 Interviews

The Tigi Heritage

86 Prêt à Porter

104

Universe Ferretti

Interview

ESTETICA Men

106 Advice

Shave Alert

110

Paul Mitchell

Interview

113 News

Report

116 Agenda

Calender

120 Products

Reviews

125 Subscriptions ESTETICA AFRO 127 Subscriptions ESTETICA 128 Stockists

ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|7

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E D I T O R I A L Picture supplied by Schwarzkopf Professional

Cindy Horton Editor Estetica South Africa cindy.horton@estetica.co.za

From a young age my mom taught me a very basic beauty routine which has stuck with me ever since. Not a night goes by where my mascara isn’t removed or my night cream isn’t applied.

My mother would save money wherever possible, but not on her beauty products. All her pots of promises, neatly lined up on her dressing table. I would watch her go through her strict routine, from cleansers to creams and finally make-up. Often trying to copy her, I would end up with make-up everywhere but the desired place.

My father on the other hand is a real ‘mans-man’ who works outdoors in comfy clothes and durable shoes. His morning routine takes about 20 minutes and consists of a bar of soap, toothpaste, deodorant and aqueous cream used from head to toe.

So you can imagine my surprise when I started realising that my professional hair products and expensive face creams started diminishing rather quickly. At the same time my boyfriend’s complexion was looking rather radiant.

The reality is that men nowadays are becoming more aware of their appearance and want to improve their looks wherever possible.

Gone are the days when a man’s beauty routine consisted of soap and water. Almost every reputable beauty and hair brand has launched a men’s range targeting their specific needs.

Therefore, I thought it was only fair to compile a men’s feature showcasing the latest men’s fashion trends, styling tips and grooming techniques. In this edition, ESTETICA interviews key male hairstylists and finds out how they are influencing the industry.

I was extremely fortunate to meet world renowned hairstylists Robert Cromeans and Angus Mitchell while in South Africa. Robert’s eccentric personality and all-consuming passion for the industry is infectious and enough to excite anybody. It was an absolute honour to meet Angus, the son of legendary stylist Paul Mitchell, and it is evident that he has inherited his father’s talent and enthusiasm towards the hair industry. Read more on these dynamic personalities in International Flair on pages 110-112.

Update your look with the latest Autumn/Winter 2012/2013 catwalk trends, from the likes of John Richmond and Vivienne Westwood, found on pages 34-41 and refresh your appearance with the must-have men’s beauty products on page 29.

We have dedicated this edition to the stylish, daring and inquisitive men out there. I hope that we have inspired you to try new things and answered some of your troubling questions.

Happy grooming!

Cindy Horton Editor

ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9

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Have a

look!

Peter Jensen

Simply chic or jaw-droppingly impressive, this season’s hair is as fashionable as it’s functional.

B

umble and bumble’s team of hair creatives were a defining presence behind the scenes at all the four major Fashion Week schedules for Spring/Summer 2012 – and time has shown they were spot on-trend! They took a two-sided approach by combining and contrasting chic sophisticated classics with daring, forward-thinking exoticism.

Four London shows in particular symbolised and illustrated the creative threads that wove the Bb. signature styles for the season. For Margaret Howell and Ann-Sofie Back Atelje the Bb. Editorial Stylists featuring Neil Moodie and Ali Pirzadeh created ‘real girl’ styles with subtle but striking embellishments.

To accentuate gathered hair and simple buns, the team played with texture and finish, also imparting softness to give a loose, dressed-down feel. At the PeterJensen show it was once again hair-ups, well... of a fashion!

Following on from a trend he’d established the previous week in NYC of braiding, teasing and undone extravagance, Neil Moody started off by rough blow drying the hair before backcombing, crimping and straightening to create the illusion of Afro texture with light, airy volume. For the Chistopher Raeburn show, sylist Bianca Tuovi worked in absolute contrast to much of the structured hair-up and often slick looks that have been so prominent this season. Relaxed, sporty and tousled with texture, strong blocked The London Olympics colour delivered a no-nonsense complement to a will create sports-chic collection where emphasis had been placed fever, so be ready! on the depth and texture of the fabrics.

In a season of harsh economic uncertainty in which versatility really does count for so much, the Bb. Editorial Stylists have once again proven that a ponytail is never just a ponytail, an up-do doesn’t have to be completely up and lived-in texture and natural waves can be as beautiful and enchanting as even the most sculptured style!

Christopher Raeburn

Margaret Howell

As London catches its breath after the extraordinary runway shows for Fashion Week AW12. We step back on-trend and revisit what the SS predictions said we’d be wearing now!

C A T W A L K S

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(below) The Bb. Art Team working on the LFW SS12 collections.

This season’s key Bb. runway products Shine On Finishing Spray, Bb. Gel, Surf Spray, Hair Powder, Prep, Thickening Hairspray and Bb. Texture.

Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

Ann Sofie Back Atelje

Peter Jensen

Margaret Howell

Ann Sofie Back Atelje

c

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11

Caroline Charles

Nabil El-Nayal

Fyodor Golan

Heide Leung Belle Sauvage

Catwalks photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo

C A T W A L K S

Fyodor Golan

Caroline Charles

...and L’Oréal Professionnel at London Fashion Week...

The Spring/Summer collections at London Fashion Week turned up some defining looks created by the LP Portfolio Session Team. For the colourful, bright and bold Caroline Charles show, Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer took inspiration from a Tim Walker shoot for Vogue with a country feel which integrated the modern woman with an essential retro look reminiscent of the 1950s. Jonny also worked backstage at Fashion Fringe as part of the LP Portfolio Session Team creating the hair for Latvian designer Fyodor Golan, whose collection was inspired by a nymph who lives through a painful metamorphosis, grasping support from nature around her: Californian Heidi Leung, was inspired by Orientalism and celebrity snapshots from the 60s; and Syrian-born Nabil El-Nayal’s ‘All the riches she deserves’. Back to the main runway events, and Mark Woolley from Electric styled for designer Daniel James, with a collection of seductive dresses and separates constructed in the finest butter-soft rubber, lace and chiffon. Hair was inspired by Bladerunner with a baroque feel, achieved by creating a reverse symmetrical roll from a centre parting, with minimal texture for a slick finish. To enhance his levels of nervous energy, Mark was being followed by a film crew from Sky Living, so no pressure then! Over at the Belle Sauvage show, Sam Burnett, Tina Farey and the team from RUSH Hair were working backstage on a Belle Sauvage show which featured their signature digital graphic prints integrated into a range of colourful dresses and separates in bright colours and with contrasting sheer and opaque fabrics. Sensual body con moulded leather contrasted with feminine box pleated chiffon in a palette of yellow, magenta, mint, and lilac. Hemlines were short and shoulders and hiplines emphasised. The inspiration for the hair was a combination of two iconic eras: the 1940s pinned-up waves merged with a sensational mix of modern pop-art classics.

LP Portfolio Session Team working behind the scenes at London Fashion Week (top to bottom) Jonny Engstrom @ Guy Kremer, Tina Farey @ Rush and ark Woolley @ Electric.

Essential, bang on-trend but with a touch of super-retro chic!

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13

Hollywood

intrigue

With three new edge-of-your seat films – all box office hits – these guys are sexy, talented, sometimes naughty and – apparently for the moment – AVAILABLE!

A

s if people didn’t have enough to worry about nowadays, three new films have been reminding filmgoers that things could be worse, with George Clooney’s political intrigue (The Ides of March), Jude Law in a viral apocalypse (Contagion), and Ryan Gosling in an old-fashioned thriller (Drive).

Although none of these is a classic “chick flick”, with these three in starring roles (Gosling also co-stars with Clooney, something tells us the femmes are lining up at the ticket offices!). ESTETICA asked Garret Hamabata to give us his professional opinion of the looks these three leading men sport on the red carpet and around town for KMS California. Garret is Master Stylist and Educational Director at the renowned Vim and Vigor Salon where he specialises in working with the natural texture of his client’s hair and creating styles that are personalised, versatile and low maintenance.

Working with KMS California is a perfect fit for Garret, thanks to his belief in celebrating individuality and focusing on versatility in haircuts.

Photo: Getty Images

L O O K S

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George Clooney As always, sophisticated and classy. His hair is styled with more of a matte, dry finish which goes well with the colours of the overall look. Having his hair parted is a nice touch that adds to the neat, crisp style. The cut could have been cleaned up just a little bit more around the sides and some of the weight taken out for a little less bulk. Overall, you can’t go wrong with George!

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17

Photo: Getty Images

Jude Law It’s nice to have natural textures to work with. He has soft waves that give body and fullness with minimal effort in styling. He used a light shine product to tame the curls and add separation. The cut could be approached a little differently to be more flattering for his face shape. It seems to be in an ‘in between’ length. His curls are used here to match his laidback appearance.

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Photo: Getty Images

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Ryan Gosling In this photo the hairstyle goes well with Ryan’s sleek but carefree look. With the cut being a little on the longer side, it shows a little less reserve and adds a bit of youth.

It’s styled in a more polished manner, which contributes to the good boy, sex appeal.

His facial hair is a good added touch to balance out his dressy, casual outfit.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19