Live HoiAn magazine

Activities . Art . Dining . Entertainment . Hotels . Shopping . Spas

Nhà Xuất Bản Đà Nẵng

Contents Preface Hoi An Essential Information Calendar Local Promotion Sam’s Good Business List

2 6 14, 16 18,22 24,25

Features What is Fair Trade?

Notes from Hoi An Hoi An Market Ladies Tra Que Herb Garden Cyclo Drivers Being a Pig in the Year of the Cat How Vietnamese Are You? Local Co-operation Photo Essay

26-28 30-33 34-36 37-39 40,41 42-45 46-49 50-52 58-62

Maps

66 -75

Sections Golf Activities Dining Entertainment Accommodation Shopping Health & Wellness Outside Hoi An Da Nang Business Directory Important Contacts

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: +84 510 3927 040 - Fax: +84 510 3927 041 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

76,77 80-87 88-109 110 111 112-129 130-135 136,137 138-141 142-155 156

Preface So spring is still in swing and the sizzle of summer approaches. And just as sure as the tides change, so has this little heritage town. When I take a moment to consider what has happened around town, I am always astounded.

People are always asking me, “don’t you worry about running out of ideas?”

No, I don’t. There is always a new place opening. New faces. And the changes of the seasons. At this time you can feel the buzz of the warm season coming and the energy of development . It’s been almost 2 years since Live Hoi An published it’s first magazine and in that time I seen two 18 hole golf courses open, a series of new bars and restaurants, various adventure tours and a proliferation of original and creative art and design stores. Not to mention the number of resorts between Hoi An and Da Nang coming into actual fruition. Indeed, the times are a-changin’ as Bob Dylan famously sang (and did so quite recently during his Vietnam tour). We either make our own music or dance along…

Any comments about the new issue?

Email me: amy@livehoianmagazine.com Center Viet Nam Advertising & Marketing Co.,Ltd 36 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3920889 Fax: 0510 3920889 info@livehoianmagazine.com www.livehoianmagazine.com

A haven for tranquility, the Palm Garden Spa & Salon is ensconced in a beautifully landscaped tropical garden. The spa facility is famous, with staffed having trained under the internationally famous Shiseido Qi brand. Expect first-class pampering at local prices and enjoy facilities such as the sauna, plunge bath, Jacuzzi and steam room.

Outside guests are welcome and discounts apply during our current promotion please enquire at reception!

CEO, Managing Editor and Director of Sales: Amy Morison Assistant Sales Director: Tran Gia Duc Art Director: Tran Hoai Anh @ Spot Design Design: Spot Design Office Manager: Nguyen Thi Van Vietnamese language advisor: Chi Mai Contributors: Phil Mellifont and Sam Miller Staff Photographer: Etienne Bossot Special thanks to Etienne Bossot for the cover photo LIVE HOI AN - (Song ngữ) Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Nguyễn Kim Thành Biên tập nội dung: Nguyễn Lương Quyền.

Sửa bản in: Nguyễn Anh Vũ. Bìa: In 7.000 cuốn, khổ 10x20cm tại Công ty TNHH MTV Công Công Thành 312 Hoàng Diệu, Đà Nẵng.

Số đăng ký kế hoạch xuất bản: 400-2011Nhà xuất bản Đà Nẵng In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 04 năm 2011.

2

Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach Tel: (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

3

Culinary CARGO CLUB

creations MORNING GLORY

by Ms. Vy MERMAID restaurant-hoian.com

Hoi An Essential

INFORMATION

Hoi An is place rooted in tradition and history. Its past is a resplendent tapestry of arts and culture having served as a key trading port and supplier of fine crafts for the imperial city of Hue. Contemporary Hoi An still thrives as a very arts-oriented community and as a town with many cultural experiences on offer, including gourmet restaurant and luxury relaxation options which are continually evolving as more visitors are attracted to the area.

As a visitor, here are some essential guidelines on the town’s unique features, rules and etiquette.

What you should know: • Every month on the lunar calendar (which is the same as the full moon), the townspeople show respect and honour to their history and ancestors. In the old quarter only pedestrians are allowed, in fact you cannot even peddle or push your bicycle through the town until after 9:30pm.

Also, fluorescent lighting is prohibited and instead you will see many lanterns adorning the shop fronts and warming the streets.

• During the normal working week there are certain times when you cannot ride a motorized vehicle into the old quarter. These are: - 8am-11am (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) - 2pm-5pm (Monday, Wednesday, Friday) - 7pm-9:30pm (Every day) • When visiting local attractions, be respectful, particularly if you are entering a religious site. Don’t wear tight-fitting or revealing clothes. It is also considered rude to speak loudly, laugh or be openly affectionate.

Quiet appreciation is the key – and locals will appreciate you for it.

• You may feel pangs of guilt when approached by children selling goods.

That’s natural. Just remember it’s not necessarily the best way to help them and more often than not they are not actually the kids most in need. Please see Sam’s Good Business List if you want to make sure your money is getting channeled through a legitimate organization to the right people. At Live Hoi An we also advocate eating at Streets International Restaurant at least once and purchasing goods from fair trade outlet Reaching Out as well as NGO-funded foundations Lifestart and Smile House. All their products are made by disabled or underprivileged locals.

Healthier … by nature Hoi An’s essential day spa experience Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu Street Tel: 0510 3 933 999 Email: palmarosaspa@yahoo.com Website: www.palmarosaspa.com

6

MS TUONG’S TAILOR MADE SHOES AND CLOTHES:

WORLD CLASS Amy Morison

Get Soleful at Shoe Shop 09 My mother always told me that owning a good pair of shoes was essential to my health. Of course she meant one good pair, not several, and was referring to my posture, not a euphoric state of mind. The practice (or art) of buying and owning shoes is an almost obsessive requirement of many a woman’s well-being: mind, body, sole. And let’s not exclude the men here. I remember being at a close friend’s wedding last year and asking in regards to her new groom, “So what was the deciding factor for you?” “Shoes”, she replied quite simply. “He was wearing the perfect pair of Prada loafers when I met him”. Yes, sole indeed.

What’s my point? It’s time to dig the heels in. Shoes back home (as in a Western home) are expensive. Fashionable or decent shoes at least. Shoes in Hoi An = not expensive. Tailor-made, readymade, handmade, stylish, beautiful, high quality shoes are a bargain! But let’s not ahead of ourselves, not all shoes in Hoi An were created equal.

SHOE SHOP 09

When I first met Ms Tuong, owner of the 12 year old Shoe Shop 09, my immediate thought was this lady has an honest smile – and a sense of style. Her range of stilettos, brogues, sneakers, boots (truly made for walking) were also very impressive. On close inspection you can see the quality in the stitching and gluing of every shoe. And the leather.

Fabulous, 100% pure leather, made to fit your foot. Heaven.

Beyond the shoes, Ms Tuong has a range of leather jackets (super slick), handbags and purses. Again, inspect the stitching and feel the leather – it oozes quality, and the price won’t cause an aneurysm. She also has a cloth shop next door so you can literally kill two birds with one stone and get all your fashion needs at once. A lovely evening dress or suit? Shoes to match? Too easy!

My mother would be proud, I have plenty to be soleful about and neither my posture, my savings or my sense of style has suffered. If your tread is wearing thin and you could use a new outfit, I recommend hiking up to Shoe Shop 09 and checking out Ms Tuong’s tailor store next door. Tell them you read about them in the magazine and you’ll get an extra discount!

65 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 386 3573 tuong2002@hotmail.com

Shoe Shop 09: 65 Tran Hung Dao St

Tel: 0510 386 3573 / Email: tuong2002@hotmail.com

R

Streets International:

The Graduates

STREETS provides an opportunity for disadvantaged youth to transition from poverty and life on the streets to successful careers in hospitality. The STREETS Restaurant Cafe and regional training center opened in Hoi An over 1 year ago. Already one class has finished with 100% employment and classes two and three are busy training and preparing for their new careers.

10

The expressions of STREETS International founders Neal Bermas and Sondra Stewart were similar to that of proud parents. Emotions were running high; their first class of kids had graduated. Within 1 month after the ceremony, all Trainees were employed in the best 5 star hotels and restaurants in Hoi An. STREETS International is a non-profit, social enterprise that opened a restaurant almost 2 years ago, commencing a programme that would impact on the lives of various underprivileged youth from Hoi An and nearby provinces. The18-month programme enables trainees to develop essential skills in hospitality and culinary service – STREETS provides education, equipment and boarding to all their trainees. Every trainee undergoes English lessons and hospitality or culinary theory as well as practical; each logging a certain number of hours in the STREETS Restaurant Café on Le Loi St. Once training is completed, STREETS graduates achieve an international accreditation from the Institute of Culinary Arts (ICE) in New York and have the skills to take on positions in 5-star level hospitality outlets, enabling them to achieve their main goal – to earn enough to support their families.

11

For this issue of Live Hoi An we caught up with a number of graduates who have taken on positions in some of Hoi An’s better known resorts and bars.

Ms Dinh Thi Minh Dan, Commis Chef at Swiss-Belhotel Golden Sands Resort & Spa This 21 year old graduate from STREETS started as a commis chef at Golden Sands almost immediately after the graduation ceremony.

Her main task right now is to work the breakfast shift, cooking special order eggs for guests. It won’t be long, however, until she takes on different responsibilities and moves up the chef ranking order – her dream is to become head chef in a resort one day.

How does she feel about her new job? Dan says she is confident and happy in her new position, as the STREETS training prepared her well.

“Our education and learning has made me feel self-confident – my tasks are not too difficult or strange. I am very hygienic and careful already because of my training. I also know how to work in a big team like the one at Golden Sands and how to control my finances. These are skills STREETS taught me,” she explains. “Also, all the basics such as chopping and cutting skills I learned at STREETS definitely helped get me my job. Everything I learned prepared me to work in a big hotel like this.”

Dan believes that with hard work and passion she can be an executive chef in 5 years. We have no doubt she will achieve this goal.

“I want to thank STREETS for giving me this opportunity. Now that I have this job – with a good salary – I can help my family a lot. My parents don’t have to work so hard now. I am very proud to be a commis chef because I can cook by myself and help my colleagues.”

Mr Nguyen Xuan Do, Commis Chef at the Nam Hai Resort Do exudes an infectious, happy energy when being photographed at the Nam Hai. Always smiling and enthusiastic, this 21 year old is clearly proud to be working as a commis chef in this esteemed 5 star resort.

“My main responsibilities include food preparation, such as cutting fruits, vegetables and checking the quality of items on the buffet. I also observe and learn from the older and experienced chefs, particularly on how to grill.

My training at STREETS has given me a lot of confidence at the Nam Hai – I understand what the various cutting boards are for and can do many tasks (such as cutting fruits) with ease. Also, we learned basic sauces from France and Italy which have helped my understanding a lot and are useful at the Nam Hai,” Do said.

12

In 5 years, Do hopes to be a chef de partie in the Nam Hai or the same level of resort. Already his salary has made a huge difference to his family.

“First of all, I am so proud to be a STREETS graduate. The training and experience I gained helped me get this job at the Nam Hai – a position many people my age would want. Getting this position has already been a dream come true and I am very happy to be learning new skills here.”

Ms Le Ho Thuy Dung, Server-Bartender at Q Bar Hoi An In the suave setting of Hoi An’s Q Bar, STREETS graduate Dung radiates – her training has more than equipped her to host guests at the prestigious Q Bar lounge. When Live Hoi An interviewed Dung her main responsibilities included setting up the tables, taking orders and serving guests their drinks. But she was well on her way to actual bartending; already learning how to make cocktails.

“STREETS provided training that I know other centres do not provide – so I know the knowledge and experience I have has already helped me a lot in my new job. The tasks are not difficult for me and I am learning fast,” she said.

“STREETS also trained me in life skills – how to manage money, deal with problems and strategize.

My English is improving all the time, but STREETS gave me excellent tuition in English, making it easier for me to communicate in my job.”

She says that her family is very proud of her; especially her ability to manage her money and living costs. They are happy that she has the means to live independently and has such good prospects for the future.

“I am very happy to work and learn here. My colleagues and manager at Q Bar are teaching me many useful skills and I like the working environment,” she says. “In 5 years from now I hope to be an F&B manager in a large resort.”

13

Calendar Hoi An is a heritage town brimming with tradition and plenty of activities.

April 30th

Liberation Day

on Labour Day. Guests will get an exclusive performance from Matthieu in a break from his lightning off storm tour through Japan and China. Soul bar is located on the far left side of An Bang beach Hoi An.

13th

Monthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

14th This marked the end of the Vietnam war (30th April, 1975) and beginning of the country’s reunification.

It is a public holiday

1

May

st

Labour Day Also a public holiday, otherwise known as May Day or International Workers’ Day. Matthieu Ha @ Soul Bar

Swing to Swim Golf Charity Event Montgomerie Links

Join in this charity event to help support swimming programs for kids which help prevent drowning in Hoi An and Da Nang. Free swimming programs are essential in Vietnam which has a particularly high incidence of drowning. To learn more about the event contact Ms. Donna Tran – 0905 226 206.

16th

This Belgian artist of French-Vietnamese origins is also known for his musical performances. Ha will cruise the shores of An Bang beach, sounding out ideas and experimental tunes in this unique solo show

14

Hoi An Legendary Full Moon Night Every month the town celebrates the full moon with performances and special offerings to appease ancestors (you will see incense and food displayed on family altars or shrines placed in front of shop fronts). The atmosphere in town is lively and cheerful. Also, it is reminiscent of yesteryear, with fluorescent lights and all vehicles (including bicycles) banned inside the old quarter between 7 and 9:30pm.

19th

Birthday of Ho Chi Minh

Calendar Hoi An is a heritage town brimming with tradition and plenty of activities.

21st

John Lidbetter’s All Weather Prize International Stoneskimming Competition.

dragon boat racing will be seen end of May and into early June.

10th

Monthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

14th

Hoi An Legendary Full Moon Night See earlier reference.

Showcase your skimming skills on An Bang beach near Soul bar.

John has designed an amusing set of rules for skimmers. The highest cumulative total of skims wins.

Prizes will be awarded. A massively enjoyable extravaganza not to be skipped! Starts in the afternoon.

Contact jlidbetter@gmail.com or amy@livehoianmagazine.com for more details.

6

June

th

Tet Doan Ngo

July 8th

Monthly Friday Night Golf & BBQ Montgomerie Links

14th

Hoi An Legendary Full Moon Night See earlier reference.

14th The changing of the season and marking of the half year, Tet Doan Ngo is one of the most celebrated cultural festivals after the Vietnamese New Year. Plenty of festivities in the street and events such as

16

French National Day –Check out La Plage Celebrate with friends at a party on the beach. Contact Denis at La Plage for more information on 0510 3928 244. La Plage is on the far right side (when facing the ocean) of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach

Local Promotions Al Fresco’s Set Lunch Menus

DINGO DELI Vietnam

Excellent value set lunch menus for 155,000 VND include three courses (with a variety of choices for starter, main and dessert) and coffee from 10:30am to 2:30 pm daily. Also happy hours on selected drinks occur from 6-8pm daily. Margaritas and mojitos are 50,000VND during this time. When Live Hoi An went to print Al Fresco’s were still offering 40% off all delivery.

Before & Now Daily Cocktail Specials Daily promotions from 6-12pm include beers, cocktails and shooters. Tuesday nights are ladies nights from 9pm-2am women can buy 3 and get 1 free Amarula shots. Friday night is Jagermeister night from 9pm-2am, buy 3 free get 1 free of Jager shots, Jagerbombs, B52, Amarula or Springbok. Sunday is 20% off wine day (selected wines only).

Palm Garden Contino Club one for one Happy Hour Drink in the breathtaking surrounds of the Palm Garden resort – its lavish gardens are famous throughout Vietnam – while enjoying happy hour cocktails at the Contino Bar from 5 to 8pm everyday. Buy one drink and get one free to the same or lesser value. Also, you get a free snack during happy hour.

Victoria Hotel’s $12 Breakfasts For only $12 net outside guests can enjoy the ultimate breakfast buffet at the plush Victoria hotel.

Freshly baked bread and platters of cheese are some of the highlights, although you can expect all the usual high-end buffet trimmings: hot dishes, eggs made to order, fresh juices … this is the best breakfast deal in town!

Waterfront Da Nang one for one Happy Hour Happy hours everyday from 6 to 7pm include one for one drinks at Da Nang’s slickest restaurant/bar. Enjoy the riverside view with a comprehensive menu of beer, cocktails and bistro-style dishes. 150 Bach Dang St, 0511 384 3373.

18

>> delicious Thereís a lot to love about Dingo Deli: • An Extensive Selection of Imported Gourmet Fine Foods from Around the World • Hearty & Healthy Meals Include Fresh Salads, Gourmet Sandwiches and Desserts • Great Coffee & Wine • Meet n Mingle with New & Old Friends Open 7am - 7pm | 229 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An, Vietnam Tel: 0906 552824

Cool mixes of drinks and tunes. Funky, provocative art. Indie

music. Vibrant, social atmosphere. Before and Now is Hoi An’s original and most happening hangout. Come make friends, be merry, play or dine. Fine Italian cuisine, exquisite desserts and local specialties are on the menu. Also, extensive wine and cocktail lists with daily promotions (happy hour 6pm12am). Free pool, foosal and live satellite sports!

51 Le Loi - 0510 3910 599 - wwwbeforennow.com

Local Promotions

18 HOLE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSE DESIGNED BY COLIN MONTGOMERIE

MONTGOMERIE LINKS PROMOTIONS HAPPY HOUR

FREE KIDS “LETS GO GOLF”

DRIVING RANGE PROMOTION

MONTHLY GOLF & BBQ EVENING

The Links Café - Happy Hour from 4pm - 7pm Daily VND 100.000 Beer & Balls special - 1 pitcher of Draught Beer & 100 Driving Range Balls for 100.000 VND 10.000 chicken wings - Choose from salt/pepper, bbq or spicy sauce Special happy hour food menu, meals priced form VND 75.000 - VND 130.000 Spirits & Local beer - Buy One Get one free on all spirits and local beer.

Conditions: Not to be used with any other promotionPrices exclusive of VAT and service charges Valid 4pm - 7pm Monday - Sunday FREE Kids “lets go golf” Any child 18 years of age and under receives FREE golf including green fees, caddie fee and driving range balls when accompanied by a paying adult (member, members guest, guest). This offer is 100% free, no taxes, no surcharges, no add on.

Terms: Valid until 31”December 2011.

Offer not available on Sunday’s or Public Holidays from 6am - 12noon.

1 adult may introduce a maximum of 3 children per day.

Driving Range - adult must purchase 100 balls or the happy hours beer and balls promotion for the children to quality for free balls Rental equipment at regular prices.

Every First Sunday of the Month Balls & Golf Tips from Golf Professional Lee Marshall Brunch at Links Café From 9.00AM-10.00AM, Every first Sunday of the month Member: 105,000 VND net/person or FOC for any members who have at least 01 accompanied guest.

Member/Guest: 210,000 VND net/person For reservation: Please contact us at reservations@montgomerielinks.com or call us at +84 5103 941 942.

Program: 9.00 AM – 10.00 AM: 1 hour unlimited golf balls with light brunch available and golf tips by Golf Professional - Lee Marshall 10.00 AM: Event concludes MONTHLY GOLF & BBQ EVENING 2ND FRIDAY OF EVERY MONTH 9 Hole golf compettion + BBQ Buffet: 195,000 vnd* Book your tee time from 2.30 Pm + 3.30 Pm. Prizes awarded or the winner Presentation dinner + BBQ buffet at5 6.00 Pm Free shuttle bus to Da Nang Leaves Montgomerie Links at 8.30 Pm and returns to Indochina riverside

Golf Reservations to the email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com Tel: 0510 3 941 942/ Fax: 0510 3 941 940

“2010 European Ryder Cup Captain and Eight-time European Tour Order of Merit winner Colin Montgomerie-better known as Monty to his worldwide fan base-has massaged massive greens and rippled fairways into the stunning backdrop, setting up an experience he believes will rank among the world’s finest. 18 holes and a well equipped 30 bay undercover driving range open till 9pm”

Email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com Phone: +84 (510) 3 941 942 Address: Dien Ngoc Commune, Dien Ban District,

COLIN MONGOMERIE

Quang Nam Province, Vietnam

www.montgomerielinks.com

DESIGN

24

25

against the poorest, weakest producers. It enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives.

The 10 principles or standards that must be met by Fair Trade organizations worldwide are: 1. Creating Opportunities for Economically Disadvantaged Producers

A key aspect of Fair Trade is to reduce poverty and create economic self-sufficiency and ownership. The organization supports marginalized small producers and community development.

2. Transparency and Accountability

The organization is transparent in its management and commercial relations. The organization finds appropriate, participatory ways to involve employees, members and producers in its decision-making processes.

“To be charitable is a virtue. To be empowered is a human right.”

This quote struck me as I read through an eloquently written blog about Hoi An’s first – and to my knowledge, only – Fair Trade outlet. Mr Binh, founder and manager of the Reaching Out fair trade gift store, has often stressed the difference between the profit-oriented Fair Trade business and the non-profit charitable organizations that exist locally. Both have their merits and purposes yet the two should not be confused. One is defined by a sustainable business model, the other as an organization which provides to those who cannot provide for themselves.

Before I continue, I would like to affirm that Live Hoi An advocates the need to support local non-profit organizations – many of which provide education and an essential income to the disadvantaged. We certainly encourage donations and the purchasing of goods or services that give back to the underprivileged community in any form (please see Sam’s good business list on pages 24/25). But back to the point in question: what exactly does Fair Trade mean?

For many readers, Fair Trade is the symbol they see on a packet of coffee beans. Or the local outlet that sells exotic handwoven clothing and jewellery. We associate it with being ‘good’, but we may not altogether understand what it means and how it differs from donating or supporting a charity. For me personally, the easiest way to make the distinction between Fair Trade and charity is in the words ‘trade’ and ‘aid’.

3. Trading Practices

The organization trades with concern for the social, economic and environmental well-being of marginalized small producers and does not maximize profit at their expense.

4. Payment of a Fair Price

A fair price is one that has been mutually agreed by all through dialogue and participation, which provides fair pay to the producers and can also be sustained by the market.

5. Child Labour and Forced Labour

The organization adheres to the UN Convention on the Rights of the Child, and national / local law on the employment of children. The organization ensures that there is no forced labour in its workforce and / or members or homeworkers.

6. Non Discrimination, Gender Equity and Freedom of Association

The organization does not discriminate in hiring, remuneration, access to training, promotion, termination or retirement based on race, caste, national origin, religion, disability, gender, sexual orientation, union membership, political affiliation, HIV/AIDS status or age.

7. Working Conditions

The organization provides a safe and healthy working environment for employees and / or members. It complies, at a minimum, with national and local laws and ILO conventions on health and safety.

The World Fair Trade Organization defines Fair Trade as: a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers.

Fair Trade is about better prices, decent working conditions, local sustainability, and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers in the developing world. By requiring companies to pay sustainable prices (which must never fall lower than the market price), Fair Trade addresses the injustices of conventional trade, which traditionally discriminates 26

27

8. Capacity Building

The organization seeks to increase positive developmental impacts for small, marginalised producers through Fair Trade. The organization develops the skills and capabilities of its own employees or members.

9. Promotion of Fair Trade

The organization raises awareness of the aim of Fair Trade and of the need for greater justice in world trade through Fair Trade.

10. Environment

Organizations which produce Fair Trade products maximize the use of raw materials from sustainably managed sources in their ranges, buying locally when possible. All organizations use recycled or easily biodegradable materials for packing to the extent possible, and goods are dispatched by sea wherever possible.

Reaching Out The Reaching Out retail store and workshop employs numerous artisans with “different abilities”. Rather than focus on a person’s disability, the Reaching Out philosophy is to harness their staff’s unique skills and aptitude. The Reaching Out gift store sells handicrafts, clothing and décor.

You can find beautiful handmade lacquerware, table runners, cushion covers, clothes, bags, jewellery, ceramics and woodwork at the shop and everyone who enters is welcome – in fact, encouraged – to take a quick tour of the workshop at the back of the store.

At Reaching Out all of the artisans or sales people earn a ‘living wage’ meaning that they earn enough to save money as well as meet all their essential needs. They also work fair hours (no more than 6 days a week) with annual leave and leave such as maternity leave is granted in tandem with international standards.

All of the staff at Reaching Out take pride in their work and in the business. As Mr Binh says, “we work as a whole, each member of the team is important.” Moreover, the profit generated from retail sales goes back into training and development programmes for other people with disabilities.

“A potted plant needs constant care, but growing in its natural environment it prospers; so too with our independent and fulfilled employees. We believe that it is possible to break the cycle of poverty and dependence,” explains Mr Binh on the Reaching Out website. “We do not rely on donations, but instead rely on our own ingenuity and our fully integrated team to succeed.”

To read interviews from the staff at Reaching Out about what Fair Trade means to them – and also in general about the growth of Fair Trade in Vietnam and the region, I recommend the following blog by Mitch Teberg (also the writer whose quote I used at the beginning of this article) http://journeyforfairtrade.blogspot. com/2010_12_01_archive.html

28

Getting An Education Sam Miller Last fall I was observing an Oxfam project that teaches farmers how to do basic financial analysis. At the time I was struck by the fact that their first priority was saving money to educate their children.

Although Vietnamese parents are not alone in wanting to give their kids the best chance at success through education, it is an especially important part of Vietnamese culture and has led to an impressive literacy rate1 for a country that has gone through as much as this one in the past few decades. Vietnam’s literacy rate is just over 90%; basically on par with China’s (91%). Globally, Vietnam is ranked 121st in literacy – just behind Indonesia and ahead of neighbors Cambodia (74%) Laos (69%). (For readers interested in where your country ranks, here are a few…

Finland is #1 (100%), while Australia, France, US, UK are each ranked with 99% literacy).

30

So what does the Vietnamese educational system look like and what are the challenges?

In Vietnam it is obligatory to attend primary school (grades 1-5; ages 6-11). The second tier is intermediate school (grades 6-9; ages 12-15) followed by secondary school/high school (grades 10-12; ages 16-18).

A reflection of the direct and indirect costs of sending kids to school, according to the East Meets West Foundation, enrollment in high school is only about 50% with lower graduation rates. For a variety of cultural and other reasons, boys stand a better chance of staying in school than girls which is reflected in their literacy rates. Men’s literacy is 94% compared to 87% for women.

Despite rapid economic growth in the past decades, many still struggle to afford to send their kids to school. While the poorest kids have school fees waived, they still struggle to pay for the required uniforms and food at school. Costs vary but uniforms start at $4 each and food is $11-$36 per month per child. Another expense to consider is ‘extra tuition’. Without it, even bright students get poor results.

Locally, extra tuition costs between $1.50 and $3.00 per subject per month. But high school students need to do 4 subjects per week so 1

Literacy is defined as the number of people over 15 who can read and write.

Actual monthly income varies widely. $260 is the country’s GDP per person adjusted for purchasing power parity. Source: CIA World Fact Book Dec, 2010.

2

31

the costs add up quickly. (Keep in mind the average income is $260/ month2.) For poorer families there is a double burden as the absence of help means life is harder on the family farm.

In addition to the financial pressure of paying school fees at the family level, the country has the added challenge of keeping up with a young and growing population. About 70% of Vietnamese are under 35 years old. With a population of nearly 90 million people growing at 1% per year, this adds about 1 million people per year giving the government a huge task to build enough new schools. In Hoi An, our population is about 80,000 and we have approximately 15,000 kids in school. In recent years, many in Hoi An (especially those in the city centre who work with tourists) have become wealthier and no longer struggle to pay for basic necessities. But still you don’t have to travel far (maybe 2 minutes on your bike) to see families living off a meagre and irregular income from farming or fishing. Typically, families earn between $10 - $150 per month.

As a way to address some of these issues, a long-term resident of Hoi An, Linda Hutchinson-Burn, has established a charity which is dedicated to help the local community with a focus on education.

Linda’s activities started 13 years ago when she was travelling to Vietnam to some research on a Vietnamese cookbook and culinary tours. She began by helping a few children attend school and later formalized her efforts into a charity called Children’s Education Foundation (http://www.childrenseducationfoundation.org.au / and blog http://childrenseducationfoundation-vietnam.blogspot. com ). The primary goal is to assist girls and young women get the training and education they need to help them achieve their potential. In line with best practices in the development field, she works with local partners but supervises the work to ensure funds are spent as intended. It’s a challenging job, but rewarding, as Linda says “The children CEF helps are from impoverished families and were at risk of being trafficked due to being unsupervised 32

and out of school. We find sponsors for each child who will take them through their education including vocational training or university.

This sponsor gives the child they help both an education and reduces the risk of them being trafficked. CEF children are helped in three ways; they receive an education, have a safer childhood and will have a future with choices. Presently we are helping 110 children have such a life; this is very rewarding.” CEF school sponsorships are $150 or $200 per year. Contacts – Vietnam, Linda - mobile 0904 317163 and Australia, Graeme –mobile 0416177012 – in the USA, Stephen – mobile 917 301 0707.

While you’re in Hoi An, consider a donation to one of the many organizations who work in this field including Children’s Educational Foundation.

As the Chinese saying goes: “If you are planning for a year, sow rice; if you are planning for a decade, plant trees; if you are planning for a lifetime, educate people.”

Sam Miller is CEO of Xanh, a sustainable business consultancy providing strategy, marketing, product development and executive coaching services to businesses and NGOs. www.XanhConsulting.com

33

Bazaar Lives:

Hoi An’s

Market Ladies Nguyen Thi Van All Vietnamese towns have a market. It is central to everyday living; families buy their fresh herbs and produce twice daily for meals. In Hoi An, however, the market has even more significance – it has a long history as a trading centre. It is also quite traditional. Unlike in the larger metropolises of HCMC and Hanoi, the Hoi An market is a women’s domain. It would be rare to see a man manning the Hoi An stalls.

There are numerous women in the local market who have interesting stories. Many of them are local fixtures; well-known and fondly respected by both Vietnamese locals and expats alike. Their sociable and humourous outlook can make for a great cultural exchange. For this issue, we interviewed a few of the more noticeable and older market sellers.

her up in the afternoon. She makes an average of $5 a day from selling salt.

She told us that she preferred to be divorced (we didn’t go into detail but we know that a divorce in Hoi An quite uncommon; there is a lot of stigma attached to a divorced woman) and also has special fortune-telling abilities. Sometimes, she says, spirits will enter her body and have control over her. We haven’t seen this yet but others testify that she can communicate with the dead; or that the dead have communicated through her! Trippy.

Regardless, the other market sellers love Bich and so do we! Have a look for her when you walk through – she’s hard to miss at the corner of Bach Dang and Tran Quy Cap streets.

Aloes-ha ladies!

Hua Thi Dan and Nguyen Thi Sieng sell Aloeswood or what is also known as Agarwood. Both in their 70s, the women are busiest during times of celebration. The oil from aloeswood is meant to have many healing properties and the wood is often placed and burned on ancestral altars. These two women have an entertaining time in the market though – especially with curious tourists. Many foreigners ask what the wood is and the two ladies will happily proffer a sample to sniff – or to their greater amusement – chew on!

Seasoned seller “Hello, come on, take my picture, one dollar,” trills Nguyen Thi Bich, a wonderfully eccentric salt seller with a broad smile and an even broader sense of humour. Wearing a vivid ao dai, make-up and pearls, Bich loves to have her photo taken. Of course she likes to be paid too – a photo will cost a foreigner $1! But her quirky, fun-loving personality is worth it in our opinion. She often sings country folk songs, completely unconcerned as to who is listening or observing her. Bich is a unique individual. She is divorced and lives with her two nephews and daughter-in-law. Everyday her family drive her to the market to sell salt and then pick

34

Betel nut Ba This 80 year old Ba (Ba is the Vietnamese term for an elderly lady) sells the legendary betel quid or areca nut. Her red-stained mouth and rotten teeth should give her away! Happy to educate inquisitive foreigners on how to make and chew the betel nut leaf with lime, this Ba is the best if you want to have a truly Asian experience. Warning: it will leave your gums stinging for a few hours!

35

Heart of Health:

Herb Garden Amy Morison

Fish lady Le Thi Hoang has been selling fish all her life. She loves to bargain; having light-hearted arguments over prices and quality. When foreigners come along, she is almost always thoroughly entertained by the hand gestures and charade games she has to play in order to sell / negotiate on the fish.

Romantically poised between the river and lush rice paddies that line the road to An Bang beach, the Tra Que herb garden is one of Hoi An’s natural treasures. For more than a century, herb artisans – their growing skills and knowledge is considered an artform – have been supplying the town with a variety of organic fresh herbs and vegetables. The impressive Tra Que community comprises 45 hectares in which 245 families reside. All of the produce is grown without any insecticides and with traditional irrigation and watering methods. The soil is compacted with fermented river weed which contains the essential minerals needed to grow this famously verdant local produce.

According to Mr Nguyen Phuoc Kien, a 55 year old herb artisan, the herbs grown in Tra Que have a unique freshness and flavour that you cannot find anywhere else in Vietnam.

Tea Lady Every morning Phung Thi Thien rises to boil green tea leaves and bring to the market to sell. She has a seat in a small corner of the market where she aims to catch those who’ve finished their shopping and need a moment to rejuvenate. While she only makes a meagre $2-$3 a day, she enjoys selling tea and bringing comfort to her customers.

“Herbs play as an important role to Vietnamese cooking as rice does and the herbs and vegetables we grow in Tra Que have a special taste. The people in Hoi An know this; when they go out of town they notice how different the taste of food is because the herbs are not as good,” he explained.

Mr Kien further noted a common phrase in Vietnamese which translates to “eat herbs when you are healthy, drink herbs when you are sick”. He

Organic bird Mai Thi Phung is known by most of the Vietnamese as the foremost market chicken lady. She raises her birds at home; on natural grains and free range. She reckons her chicken tastes better than that of the supermarket because it is organic and we tend to agree, although compared with ‘Western’ chickens the local birds are very small in size. For the local palate, however, Phung’s birds are the best!

36

37

says almost all Vietnamese understand the nutritional value of what they are eating and the medicinal functions that herbs, vegetables and spices can have. Mr Kien and his neighbours seldom go to the pharmacy or hospital – they only go if they are having serious health issues. Instead they rely on traditional medicine and methods which have been taught and passed down from generation to generation.

“For example, ginger helps enhances your energy and reduces stress; it is good when you fell exhausted. Lemongrass is very useful in helping prevent cold or influenza. Red shisa we put in congee when we are sick and it really helps to cure a cold. We also use basil, cinnamon, betel leaves, cucumber, melon and coconut in therapeutic massage – they all have good properties for detoxifying the skin,” he said.

Another herb artisan, Ms Nguyen Thi Khuyen, echoes Mr Kien’s passion for Tra Que. This vibrant 77 year old inherited her plot of land and knowledge of herbs from her ancestors. While she is elderly, she happily wakes early every morning to tend to her herb and vegetable plot – it is both her livelihood and passion.

“All kind of herbs here are good for health, and we eat them regularly in our home cooking. Without them we feel that our food doesn’t have flavour. Fresh herbs are also what make special dishes such as My Quang and Cao Lau taste so good,” she said. “Herbs also act as natural medicines. For example, Pennywort helps relieve bad acne and assists the liver. Celery we use for high blood pressure and to sooth a sort throat when the weather changes.”

38

Ms Khuyen said that instead of going to the pharmacy for common ailments, locals will use herbal recipes instead. She gave a few examples: “To treat cough we will mix citrus fruit, palm sugar and ground shisa leaves together and boil for 10 minutes. We then drink this while it’s hot to alleviate a harsh throat and cough. Also for the cold, you can boil some lemongrass with lime leaves, salt and garlic for 30 minutes. Then place a blanket over your head and inhale the steam. You will feel better almost immediately.”

Having lived in Tra Que all her life, Ms Khuyen stressed the importance of maintaining the organic traditions. Also reiterating Mr Kien’s comments, she said that the seaweed used from the nearby lagoon was a potent natural fertilizer and gives the herbs and vegetables a distinctive taste. It is because of these traditional methods that Tra Que is famous and that the herbs are sought after by market sellers in both Da Nang and Hue as well as in Hoi An. There are tours available to those interested in learning the farming techniques and trying some of the local recipes that families make in Tra Que. However, you can also just ride your bicycle into the village to have a look at the artisans in action. To understand the value of herbs and their use in both herbal remedies and local recipes we recommend purchasing the Taste Vietnam cookbook by Hoi An’s teaching chef Trinh Diem Vy (go to Morning Glory restaurant on 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc or see www.restaurant-hoian.com).

39

Cyclos of time Phil Mellifont and Tran Gia Duc The Cyclo (xich lo) is a modified three-wheeled bicycle invented by the French in the early 19th century, where the driver is perched behind a wide shaded seat that can accommodate up to three people.

Once the luxurious form of transportation for French and Vietnamese nobles in Vietnam, the Cyclo continued to be a common mode of transport for local people and the delivery of goods up until the motorcycle boom of the mid 1990’s.Even until recently the Cyclo was often used to deliver mothers and newborn babies from the hospital and today you can see the occasional hard working Cyclo driver in Da Nang delivering sacks, boxes, wooden beds and all manner of goods.

Ironically, Vietnam tourism has saved the Cyclo from extinction and in Hoi An a Cyclo ride is a charming way to see the old town. The Cyclo’s themselves are kept in perfect condition and the drivers wear smart uniforms. Cyclo’s are perfect for tourists – they travel slow enough for guests to see the sights, safe enough when travelling through chaotic traffic, and romantic enough for lovers young and old to share.

As part of the 2008 Miss Universe pageant, the Miss Universe delegates were collected from their resort at the beach and transported

through the spectator-lined streets of Hoi An to a stage near the Japanese Bridge. Many of the women commented on how unique the experience was.

When visiting Hoi An, you should try a Cyclo once. There’s no need to feel condescending or snobbish when riding a Cyclo – most drivers do not feel demeaned by their job, in fact the image of a Cyclo and driver symbolizes the hardworking Vietnamese ethos and preserves an important part of Vietnam’s cultural history.

According to Mr Huynh Tranh, who is 65 years old and has the Cyclo number plate 001, the Cyclos of Hoi An are managed by four government agencies (Hoi An police, old town administration office, labour and social welfare service and cultural office) so the prices are regulated and tourists are always safe. He has 33 years experience on the Cyclo and takes people around the old town but also as far as the beach. To go from central Hoi An to Cua Dai beach it is 70,000 VND one way (about US $3.50) or 100, 000 VND for a return (about US $5). Cyclos are commonly stationed near the old market (where the buses and taxis park) and by the Japanese bridge.

Phil Mellifont is married to Ms Mung – proprietor of Lotus Jewellery, 82 Tran Phu & 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc.

40

41

“We must be like the Chicken, finding small tasty morsels; we’re not like the Pigs – IBM and Hewlett Packard – who have all the best food brought to them”. This was my first introduction into Chinese horoscope mythology and Asian farmyard wisdom. I was working for the Australian division of what was then, the world’s third largest computer manufacturer.

The presenter was the Managing Director – an intelligent, sincere, hard working man, who radiated both quiet humility and integrity. Born to a simple farming family in Taiwan, educated as a teacher who had risen to lofty heights of corporate management, responsible for multi-million dollar accounts and a significant production facility housed within the Sydney Olympic Park precinct during those exciting days leading up to the 2000 Olympics. Since those early days, the company has enjoyed even greater success, even having a nearby arena named after them.

The company’s core business was manufacturing computers, laptops, servers and all variety of IT hardware for the big names, IBM, HP even Apple, and at this stage they were striving to establish their own brand, marketing and selling computers and IT solutions under the manufacturers own mark.

On being a Pig in the Year of the Cat

So IBM and HP are the pigs huh? Growing up in suburban Australia in the sixties and seventies- a pig wasn’t anything to be admired. Street protesters would often shout ‘pigs’ to intervening police. A messy bedroom was often referred to as ‘a pigsty’, and scrap food waste was often collected in a separate bin at school apparently to be fed to the pigs. If you messed up a page or spilt food over your uniform you would often be called ‘messy pig’. My working class parents paid a small fortune to achieve a private Catholic education for their children, and in those days we had a teacher who would often refer to students as ‘snivelling porkers’.

So growing up in a Western culture, a pig was considered a dirty thing to be reviled, yet apparently not so in the high stake competitive world of IT sales – IBM and HP were the pigs, all the good accounts would just come to them, but we chickens had to seek out our meagre opportunities.

On moving to Vietnam, I soon found out that there’s a different calendar and consequently a different horoscope that affects my luck and future.

Originally I was somewhat dismayed to find I was ‘a Pig’. Years of schooling had caused me to despise anything piggish, even the character Piggy in the novel ‘Lord of the Flies’ was detested and eventually killed due to his piggish looks and behaviour. Why do I have to be a pig?

Phil Mellifont

But in fact I’ve come to learn that in Asia, perhaps the most opulent sign of the horoscope is the ‘Pig’. Pigs are a sign of wealth. They are prized and cared for by their owners and indeed unlike the chickens who must wander to find their meal, the pigs are often presented with their food everyday. They are a type of farmyard royalty. Children will keep their savings in a clay pig. Calendars will often depict golden pigs overflowing with a trove of coins and riches.

Asian people are great believers in the Chinese horoscope, so much so that couples will attempt to have a baby in fortunate years and avoid

42

43

having one in others. Some beliefs are sexist also, very few Vietnamese men want a ‘Tiger’ wife – they’re considered too feisty; too difficult.

The year 2011 welcomed the Vietnamese “Year of the Cat”. It’s easy to recognize the word cat in Vietnamese as it’s precisely the sound that a cat makes: “Meo”. Any quick glance at a Chinese horoscope page will reveal there is no such year in China. The Chinese celebrate ‘The Year of the Rabbit’ – it is the only animal in the 12 year calendar that is different between Vietnam and China. There is a possibility that this came from language interpretation: Rabbit in Chinese is , which is pronounced ‘Tu’. Meanwhile, the Chinese astrology calendar symbol for Rabbit is ‘Mao’. The symbol for the cat in Chinese is , but pronounced ‘Mau’. It is possible that the word ‘Mao’ was heard as ‘Mau’ by the Vietnamese people long ago. Since the current word for cat in Vietnamese is also very close to the sound of ‘Mau’ then this possible misinterpretation could be the reason for the difference. Although others speculate that the cat has more significance in Vietnamese culture; particularly in the farming culture. Cats are considered useful animals that have calm personalities and are opposed to rats. Also, you don’t see rabbits in Vietnam. The Vietnamese Year of the Cat symbolizes sensitivity, gentleness and kindness. It is also a good year for we ‘Pigs’ apparently: 2011 is said to be a progressive and enjoyable time for Pigs. Hopefully that rings true for me!

Phil Mellifont is married to Ms Mung, owner of Lotus Jewellery, 82 Tran Phu street and 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc street in the old quarter of Hoi An. Lotus Jewellery have Chinese Horoscope pendants crafted in silver. They are very affordable and make for excellent gifts.

44

45

Going local:

How Vietnamese are you ?

Amy Morison

There comes a point when every foreigner living abroad realizes that they’ve truly gone local. Especially in scenarios when a person of ‘Western’ origin goes ‘East’. The differences between culture and lifestyle are significant. Not that the populations of the ‘East’ or ‘West’ are by any means homogeneous. But there are some shared cultural features within Asia that those who have been in the region long enough have definitely adopted. Such as removing your shoes before entering a home. Or having the expert ability to use that hose and faucet next to the toilet (known colloquially as the “bum gun”) without squirting water all over your clothes and the floor. Or (this may cause a ‘tsk tsk’ from many a reader) when you drink your beer with ice. Actually it’s the point when you can no longer drink a glass of beer without adding ice that you’ve properly tipped over the local threshold – homeland friends will possibly dismiss you altogether at this stage. But what traits are distinctly Vietnamese? How do you know if you’re turning Vietnamese-ah?

In order to answer that question, I asked several locals of foreignorigin to send me their feedback. Their replies resulted in this rather amusing list. Before you read the list, however, I’d like to remind you that this is done in good humour and is not meant to cause any offence. If the coin was flipped there would no doubt be many intricacies that Vietnamese living abroad would find strange (if not a little crazy) at first – and then, slowly but surely, adapt and confirm to the local norm. That is the premise of this column.

46

You know you’ve become Vietnamese: • When you keep your motorcycle helmet on when entering a shop, office or bank.

• When all food tastes dull without fish sauce. In fact, you consume more fish sauce than your Vietnamese counterparts.

• When you wear your pajamas out of the house. Also, when you start to wonder why they were even considered pajamas back home; they look just like regular clothes.

• When you no longer flinch at total strangers asking for your age, marital status and income in the first 30 seconds of a conversation.

• When you spend more than 2 hours drinking the local coffee. At this point you can no longer drink coffee at all without condensed milk. You also prefer the taste of Vietnamese coffee to an Italian espresso.

• When you think it is normal to have more than two people on a motorbike.

• When you start making a left or right-hand turn 200 metres before the road ends. And then to avoid stopping altogether at the intersection, you ride against the ongoing traffic until the coast is clear to cross over.

• When you text or continue to receive calls while riding your motorbike, even during peak hour.

• When your living room doubles as a parking lot.

• When you can comfortably sleep on your motorbike like a xe om driver in the middle of the day.

• When the red light doesn’t mean stop under all circumstances.

• When you throw your rubbish casually on the floor at the seafood restaurant.

• When cleaning out your ears or picking your nose in a public place feels perfectly acceptable.

• When (applicable to males) you grow out your pinkie fingernail in order to clean out your ears more effectively.

47

• When you no longer notice the horns of the motorbikes when you go to bed. Or the dogs barking.

• When you ignore the horns of other vehicles wanting to pass you on the road.

• When you have a casual conversation with another person or three whilst riding your bike on the road. You continue this conversation despite the incessant honking from the vehicle behind who wants to pass.

• When you start eating lunch at 11:30am and then have a nap from 12 to 1:30pm.

• When you can happily sleep on a sedge mat instead of a bed. And that you can also share that room with an entire Vietnamese family.

• When a persons’ calves look weird without a ‘Saigon Kiss’ (ie, the burn mark left from a motorbike exhaust).

• When the market vendor thinks you’ve ripped them off.

• When you roll your eyes at the tourist who, having tipped the street vendor a 500 dong note, acts like they’ve been extremely generous.

• When you start referring to waiters outside of Vietnam as “em oi”.

• When you use the expression “troi oi” (which can be an expression of surprise, disgust, disappointment or irritation) many times throughout the day.

• Transport furniture, a refrigerator or a large flatscreen TV home by motorbike.

• When you cannot go without eating rice and a decent bundle of local herbs at least once a day.

• When you cannot go more than 2 days without a mi quang, cao lau or pho.

• When a pho session becomes an essential end to a long night of drinking.

• When you consider beer to be expensive at 20,000 dong ($1).

• When you start wearing a face mask while riding your bike.

• When you consider flip flops a suitable shoe for every occasion.

48

Local CO-OPeration:

In good company Amy Morison

When screen printers John and Jennie Walsh moved to Hoi An from Australia in 2007 it was a strategic move; they wanted to be closer to their manufacturers. Now they can’t imagine having their business anywhere else – they are literally living the dream.

printing t-shirts in high school and sold them to friends. He later worked as a contract printer to various companies in Sydney and then set up his own company in 1994. Meanwhile, Jennie, who studied at the City Art Institute, started her own swimwear business, Somersault, in Sydney in 1984. They combined their talents to form Bigstar ScreenPrinter and then made the move to Vietnam 4 years ago, bringing 3x40 foot containers of screen printing equipment and their pet Shitzu, Minime.

“The people are definitely what we love most about living and working in Hoi An. Business always has its stresses but finding motivated and committed staff that have impeccable attention for detail and the ability to meet deadlines has made business much more enjoyable,” they explained. “The peaceful nature of the people in Hoi An make it a beautiful place to live. Also, the progressive People’s Committee and the Viem Trung Village Cooperative in Dien Ngoc (just north of Hoi An) were extremely helpful and instrumental in turning our dream of building our own factory into a reality. We now have a 50 year business license with no intention of missing a year.”

John and Jennie’s screen printing business Sao Viet (meaning star of Vietnam) have an exclusive contract to create t-shirts and baby / toddler wear for the ‘Fred Bare’ clothing label in Australia. But they also do most of the designs for local companies in Hoi An, including t-shirts for Cham Island Diving, Victoria Resort’s Ural Side Cars and Hoi An Motorbike Adventures to name just a few.

Their own label ‘Hot Chili’ is also very popular throughout Da Nang and Hoi An – you can find t-shirt and dress designs throughout all the major hotel lobby shops and in individual retail stores in Hoi An. The label was named after their Vietnamese dog “Chili”, whose cute caricature appears on the label.

Originally the duo rented a space in the KCN industrial zone in Quang Nam – the same zone where businesses such as Reiker shoes have their factories.

However, after living and working in the area for more than 3 years, they found an opportunity to build their own factory on land owned by the agricultural cooperative of Vien Trung village.

The head of the cooperative, Mr Kiet, is very happy to rent the land to small foreign-owned businesses such as SaoViet; as it give his administration income to provide services for the village and also increases employment opportunities.

“I believe that working with small business ventures such as SaoViet will help develop the area and our economy. It also gives the people here a chance to get additional employment; in areas outside of agriculture,” he explained.

For John and Jennie, the experience of building their factory and working with Mr Kiet has been very positive.

“Dealing with the local people socially and with work has been a 10+ out of 10 experience. Anyone has the opportunity to come to Vietnam and share their business knowledge will find that their horizons will grow beyond expectation.”

Both Australian, John and Jennie have been in the design and fashion industry for most of their working lives. John starting 50

51

How does the coop work?

Agricultural cooperatives work similar to a company and its shareholders.

Prior to 1986 (when Vietnam shifted into a marketoriented economy), cooperatives followed the instructions from the state authority. Assets, labour and distribution of services were collectivized. From 1986 to present, however, Vietnam underwent an economic change. Farmers were allotted their own land for production and the cooperative instead became an organization which represented their interests. Individuals pay a fee to be a member of the cooperative and the cooperative also takes care of the trading of their goods. If disaster strikes, the cooperative has an emergency fund to aid those who have been most afflicted. So while farmers get paid for what they produce, they are also insured by the cooperative in the event of any disaster that would affect their production. The cooperative also buys and sells assets and provides services such as electricity, electrical or communication cables and irrigation supply. The administration is based on a vote system – management or a board of directors are elected by the members.

Each member has one vote.

For a better understanding of how the agricultural cooperatives work, I recommend reading this paper: http://www.agnet.org/library/eb/580/

52

Spicing up Hoi An Steaks and ribs off the grill. American and Tex Mex classics.

Homemade pastas by a proper Italian-trained chef. Green Chili offers a variety of high-quality dishes to suit all kinds of palates. Founded and managed by husband and wife team Hanh and Jackie, the restaurant offers warm hospitality in addition to excellent home-style and gourmet cooking! Whether you’re seeking comfort food or an exquisite mesh of East and West, Green Chili has a menu to satisfy all appetites.

Both chefs Nando and Scott are two of the best in Hoi An and run a tight ship to ensure that the customer experience is nothing less than exceptional – and personal.

“We treat all our customers as old friends. We have an extensive menu of Tex Mex, Western, Mediterranean and Vietnamese classics, but are flexible to cater to a specific customer’s taste,” says Jackie.

To match an eclectic and well-executed menu, Green Chili has an extensive cocktail and wine list. Top shelf and rare tequilas and mescals are also available.

Green Chili - Ớt Xanh 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An Phone: +84 5103 928 199 Mobile: +84 918 088 468 info@greenchilihoian.com www.greenchilihoian.com

While Hoi An is renowned for its arts and crafts, the explosion of tourism over the last decade has also seen a rise in stores selling items almost identical from one place to the next. Finding a store that sells unique handmade items of local design and creation is not easy. Lotus Jewellery is one such establishment – it literally is a gem of a store where customers are met with a treasure trove of fine, locally-made, hand-crafted jewellery and unique pieces collected from across Asia.

Founded and owned by Ms NguyễnThị Mẫn (call her Ms Mung), Lotus Jewellery is located beside the Museum of Trade Ceramics at 82 Tran Phu street in the old quarter.

Using only pure silver and genuine Asian jewels, freshwater pearls and shells, the collections are varied but mostly draw on ethnic or natural inspirations.

While Ms Mung is meticulous about the design and crafting of each piece, the atmosphere at the shop is relaxed and inviting. For customers, it is often a refreshing experience to walk into one of the Lotus shops and not have to worry about haggling or negotiating on price. The prices are fixed and fair. Also, the brand is a recognized and trusted one, known for its consistency in providing high quality products.

Pop into her ‘jewel’ of a store during your stay – it is by far the most beautiful jewellery shop in all of Hoi An.

www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com

Two locations: 82 Tran Phu & 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc Hoi An, Vietnam - Tel: +84 0510 3917 889

B enne

by Eti

58

ossot

59

by Etienne Bossot

60

61

by Etien n

e Bossot

All pho to Bossot, s taken by Eti en L zine’s s ive Hoi An ma ne ta g and fo ff photograp aun he Hoi An der of the ori r g Photo Tour. If inal like to you see work o more of Etie ’d rg nn picture et an interes e’s tin p An we erspective of g su Ho tour - w ggest you join i ww.ho ianpho his totour. co 671 89 m - or call 09 8.

05

62

Uyen Trinh’s Fashion Art Born in 1972, Uyen Trinh has been painting and studying art since she was a little girl. Her collections of Art-Nature are colourful depictions of living creatures and nature’s elements. Having both the skills of a tailor and the vision of an artist, Uyen’s eclectic Art Fashion collections have featured widely in magazines and guides, including the Lonely Planet who named her a “funky designer”. She loves to share her passion for silk painting with others and hosts workshops for interested learners.

64

65

Danang

Marble Mountain

Hoi An

Palm Garden Resort Zero Seamile Beach Club Victoria Resort Golden Sand Resort

An Bang Beach

Danang Golf Club The Montgomerie Links Vietnam The Nam Hai Le Belhamy

Furama Resort Sandy Beach Hotel Hyatt Regency Danang

My Khe Beach

Cham Island

COASTAL MAP TO DANANG

MAP

PHONG HONG

DU

HOI

8. Cargo Club 9. Before & Now 10. Luong Gia 11. Street International 12. Good Morning Vietnam 13. Hai’s Scout Café 14. Mermaid 15. Mango Rooms 16. Mango Mango 17. Sakura 18. Morning Glory 19. Al Fresco 20. Dingo Deli 21. River Lounge 4. Hoi An Motobike adventures 5. Blue Coral Diving Center 6. Cham Island Dive Center 7. Heaven & Earth

Activities

Dining

16

7

TRUNG

29. Aly Spa 30. Tuan Boy

Health and Wellness

28. Q Bar

Entertainment

CHAU

35 HUNG 45

10

LUU QUY

21

17 15

36 5 24

37

31. Avana 32. Kim Nhung 33-34. Lotus Jewellery 35. Papillon Noir I 36. Reaching Out 37. Song 38. Sun Tailor 39. Tong Shoes 40-41-42. Yaly 43. Dung Tailor 44. Papillon Noir II 45. Number 9 Shoe Shop 46. Long Vy Lantern 47. The First Shoe Shop

Shoppping

9 THAI

Dong Hiep Entertainment Area

BACH DAN G

KY

8

NGUYEN

DOCK

HOC

41

PHIEN

MARKET

14

DAO

HOAI RIVER

NG BACH DA

46

STADIUM

PHAN

DUY

27

CHAU

Local Food

BOI

39

NGUYEN

40

CUA

HOI AN OLD QUARTER

42

34

44

11 TRINH 43

30 32

4

THAI

Church

22 23 18 12 33 13 28 6

19

Hoi An river 22. Green Chilli 23. Tam Tam 24. White Marble 25. Kim Nhung 26. Hoi An Garden 27. Dao Tien

2

NGO QUYEN

NGUYEN PHUC TAN

LA

I

IM INH KH 31 A

1. Life Resort 2. Vinh Hung Resort 3. Cua Dai Hotel

QUANG TRUONG BRIDGE

LE

PHIEN BA PHAN

NG . TH

PHAN

25

29

CHAU T. VAN

VAN TRAN CAO

TRUONG NGUYEN

VAN TRAN

Accommodation index

HUNG V UONG

TRAN

HOANG NGUYEN

LOI

LE

TO

HOANG V. THU

HUE NGUYEN TRAN Q. CAP

BA HAI VAN CHAU THUONG

G TR. M. LUON

TU NGO GIA

DIEU HOANG

THAI HONG PHAM

BA TRIEU

1

26

HIEU

32

473

DAI

MAP

NGUYỄN

PHẠM VĂN ĐỒNG

PHẠM NGỌC THẠCH

LƯU TR ỌNG LƯ

G

LAN CHẾ

LÊ ĐÌNH DƯƠN

VIÊN

TÔN

Phước Lâm

NGUYỄN TUÂN

TẤT

LÊ

NGÔ

VĂN

ĐOÀN THỊ ĐIỂM

THÀNH

SĨ

HƯU

NGUYỄN BỈNH KHIÊM

LIÊN

THẮNG

CAO BÁ QUÁT

ĐỨC

HẢI

2

LÊ

CHU

LONG

VĂN

VĂN

HƯU

AN

ÔNG

Cầu An Bàng An Bàng Bridge

QUÂN

To Đà Nẵng

PARK AND STATUE OF NGUYEN DUY HIEU

Chúc Thánh

LÃN

Japanese Tomb

THƯỢNG

LẠC

DƯ

TRƯNG BÀ HAI

To Đà Nẵng

PHONG HỒNG LÊ

PHIẾN BÁ PHAN

Cotec Plaza

NGUYỄN

LÝ

TRỨ

HOÀNG

Church

Thái Bình Dươ ng Hopital

THÁI

CÔNG

ĐINH TIÊN

Tan An Market

Japanese Tomb

Tra Que Vegetable Planting Village

ach

To Cửa Đại Be

1

LÝ

La Plage

HIỂU HC

Soul Kitchen

PHAN

VĂN TRẦN

PHÙNG

ĐÌNH

ĐÌN YỄN NGU

TỘ TRƯỜNG

To Hội An Old Town

PHIÊN

THÁI

KIỆT

1. La Plage 2. Soul Kitchen

TỔ

Dining/Entertainment index

AN BANG

STADIUM

THƯỜNG

NGUYỄN

MAP

G

G

TỐ N

LO NG

KHU DU LỊCH SINH THÁI THUẬN TÌNH THUAN TÌNH ECOLOGICAL ZONE

The Five Shrines

Cầu phước Trạch Phuoc Trach Bridge

QU ÂN

Zero Seamile Beach Club

RỪNG DỪA BẢY MẪU CẨM THANH Monumental and Ecoiogical Site Of Rung Dua Bay Mau

LẠC

Palm Garden Resort

TO

CỬ AĐ ẠI BE AC H

BÃI TẮM CỦA ĐẠI

Kh uD

ỦY BAN NHÂN DÂN PHƯỜNG CỬA ĐẠI

ÂU

CƠ

HÒN MỒ

HÒN DÀI

uL ịch Biể n

HÒN KHÔ

THIÊN

Thuan Tinh Dock

G

ƠN

SƯ

ỦY BAN NHÂN DÂN XÃ XẨM THANH

VĂ N

Bà Shrine

l

Entertainment - 1. Zero Seamile Club Accomodation - 2. Palm Garden Resort - 3. Victoria Resort

wn d To

NG

HÙ

G

nO oi A To H

H

MIN

Cẩm Thanh Bridge

ƠN

TRƯ

TO ĐÀ NẴ N

CUA DAI

ỲN H

PAM

HU

Đê

IL ỰU

ng Đườ

TH

MAP PHÙ ĐỔNG VƯƠN G

Gonden Sand Resort

Victoria Resort

Design is material. avAna unique handmade clothing and accessory designs blend elegant fabrics with funky materials. It’s wearble art with an edge.

www.hoiandesign.com

info@hoiandesign.com - 0510 3 911 611 - 57 Le Loi

DANANG

Golf

The Montgomerie Links introduces Golf to over 3000 The Asian Golf Industry Foundation (AGIF) who awarded The Montgomerie Links Vietnam a USD $10,000 grant to promote their “Grow the Game” initiative across all socioeconomic strata in the Central Coast region has successfully concluded with over 3000 Vietnamese being newly introduced to the game.

As part of their strategy, The Montgomerie Links took golf to an array of local schools, retail outlets and mixed used developments where British PGA professional Lee Marshall, assisted by a number of his local coach protégées, embarked on putting golf clubs in people’s hands, teaching them the basic golf skills and introducing the concepts of the sport.

“It’s extremely gratifying for The Montgomerie Links to accomplish our goal and introduce over 3000 Vietnamese to golf for the first time thanks to the AGIF grant with support from the Vietnam Golf Association” said general director Jon Tomlinson, “Most important, it’s an affirmation of our passion for, and approach to, bringing golf to the area which now also allows The Montgomerie Links to drive our instructional golf program “Let’s Go Golf” to encourage these new golfers to become regularly active in the sport”, Wong Khen Jee, President of AGIF, commented, “The AGIF is very satisfied with the completion of our initial “Grow the Game” program in Vietnam.

The Montgomerie Links team was very thorough and professional in their implementation of the program and we hope that many of the thousands of Vietnamese introduced to golf will continue to learn and play this great game.”

Let’s Go Golf is a comprehensive, one-hour introductory golf program created by The Montgomerie Links and designed to introduce people to the game of golf through the basic requirements and skill, thereby removing any undue unease over visiting a golf club for the first time. Budding players learn the essential terminology, how the equipment functions, and fundamental techniques – grip, posture, alignment, and so forth – for both full-swing and short-game shots and since its inception has created an abundance of new active golfers within the community, all part of Montgomerie Links’ original mission statement to provide affordable golf opportunities.

The Montgomerie Links currently holds the prestigious title of “The Best Golf Course is Vietnam” and in April 2010, victorious European Ryder Cup Captain and eight-time European Order of Merit winner; Colin Montgomerie recorded the club’s course record with a faultless four under par round of 68.

For more information on the Let’s Go Golf program or The Montgomerie Links please visit www.montgomerielinks.com

76

Danang Golf Club’S dazzling clubhouse closes in on debut In December, when the editors of GOLF Magazine (US) — the world’s most popular golf publication — unveiled its top 15 courses to open worldwide in 2010, Vietnam was given reason to feel it had finally arrived as an international golf destination.

That’s because, for the first time, one of the country’s golf courses — The Dunes Course at Danang Golf Club — made the kind of prestigious list every golf club from Danang to Dornoch strives to be on.

“It doesn’t get much bigger than GOLF,” said Howie Roberts, general manager of Danang GC. “You know you’ve done something right when that spotlight turns on you.”

And to think: There’s even more to come where former world No. 1 player Greg Norman built his very first course in Vietnam.

In February, a major piece of the proverbial puzzle will be unveiled at Danang GC — the clubhouse. Almost a year in the making, the 4,044-square-metre, three-story facility designed by internationally acclaimed architectural firm Hassell will be more than a place to lace up those soft spikes. It will be a one-stop shop for everything golfers love about the game and the lifestyle that surrounds it.

For proof, one need only look to the men’s locker room, where a special member’s area has been carved out featuring 60 full-length lockers and a lounge area with plush sofas.

On the main level, one floor up from the locker rooms, an equally impressive set-up greets guests, highlighted by: A fully-stocked pro shop, where players check in and the latest and greatest brand-name equipment — such as Titleist, Foot-Joy, Taylor Made and adidas golf equipment is available.

Floor-to-ceiling windows revealing the gently tiered contours of the dune topography on which the building is set, as well as the plateau of Marble Mountains in the distance; and Expansive, glass curtain walls and meshed cladding that enhance the sense of a natural transition from exterior to interior — an atmosphere that is inviting rather than grandiose.

Upstairs, a member’s terrace, sleek bar and lounge called Hickories (in honor of the type of wood the world’s first golf club shafts were constructed from) and private dining room beckon those seeking more sweeping views of the stunning Central Coast region in the highest comfort.

Danang Golf Club Danang province on main coastal road 0511 3958 111 www.dananggolfclub.com info@dananggolfclub.com

77

Hoi An’s most original bike tour Amy Morison While Thu and Pascal Rousseau only started their bicycle company Heaven & Earth over 1 year ago, the idea has been in planning for more than 14 years. And while the idea may not seem original, the tour definitely is, literally transporting tourists to an unspoiled landscape that only rural locals know of.

“My wife Thu is from Hoi An and we spent a year here following our wedding in 1996. Her family showed me the countryside, the real island countryside of Hoi An and I loved to go there because it was so quiet and beautiful,” he explained. “So the idea is very old. Every time we would visit the family, I would go cycling into the countryside and always thought that it would be a wonderful experience for tourists.”

Moreover, Pascal wants to give back to the community, and his tour helps supplement the income of many people in the countryside who are much poorer than those who live in Hoi An town. He offers two tours, one that leaves in the morning and includes a lunch with a village family, and one in the afternoon, climaxing in the sunset as you come back into the old quarter.

Both take you into the ‘wilder’ part of Hoi An, starting by boat to an island, where you explore beyond rice fields landscapes and through rivulets, cornfields and native woodlands. You will see traditional crafts made up close. Not only woodcarvers but people that weave sedge mats, work with mother of pearl and make bricks in the old style. Pascal also relays stories passed on from his wife’s grandmother and shows tourists local treasures such as a 250 year old family tree book.

The half day tours are $15 (without lunch) and $19 (with lunch). Groups are kept small (maximum 10) so that all guests maximize properly on the tour features.

Heaven & Earth 57 Ngo Quyen St - 012 2952 7365 - 0510 3864 362 www.vietnam-bicycle.com

78

Activities

Rev into action

Vintage sidecar style

Amy Morison, photos by Alain Guillemot Nothing beats the sense of freedom you feel when biking through Vietnam. With its mountainous terrain and winding roads, biking is the best way to access the country’s most dramatic landscapes and unique hill tribe culture. And not just any bike, but riding a classic, like the 650cc Ural, makes all the difference to the experience.

Traveling in the sidecar means you have the same visibility as from the actual bike but it’s seriously comfortable. The robust car and wheel is designed to take on poor roads so going through mud and rough terrain is not an issue. The bikes were originally used by the Russian military and are deliberately designed to take on bumpy, wintery roads.

To learn more about the sidecar tours that Victoria resort in Hoi An offers, contact the resort and set up a meeting with Claude. The tours make for an experience of a lifetime!

Anyone who knows Claude Balland, GM of Victoria Resort in Hoi An, knows his passion for the Ural. His beautifully painted Russian motorcycles and sidecars are a well-known fixation at the resort – and so are his tours.

With the Victoria vintage sidecars, tourists get a classic bike experience without the discomfort (to your backside after several hours) or stress of having to ride it.

Claude’s side car tours range from day trips to Sontra Peninsular (around US$60 including lunch) to fully-fledged week long adventures that take you to the Laos border and up to North Vietnam. As an experienced biker, Claude has ventured throughout most of Vietnam’s terrain. His team of mechanics and local guides also ensure both a safe and educational journey.

URAL Vintage Side Car Tours Victoria Hoi An Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach -0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

One of the most memorable journeys you can have in Vietnam is traveling from the centre up into the surrounding mountains and hill tribes.

Moreover, venturing further into Phong Nga province you will see one of the most magnificent caves in the world. Phong Nga has only recently become recognized as a site of magical significance – no doubt it will make one of the great wonders of the world list soon. The amazing contours of the Northern landscape around Sapa are also unforgettable.

80

81

Activities In the swing of it:

Golf lessons

Amy Morison

With the recent addition of professional golfing facilities along the central coast, there are is plenty of incentive to learn the game of golf. This issue we talked to Philip W. Wright, the Golf Operations Manager and Head PGA Golf Professional at Danang Golf Club.

each year 200 try out for only a handful of cards. Or the second option is to do a 3 year apprenticeship under another professional at a golf course where one learns the basics on running a golf shop, repairing clubs, learning how to teach golf, and how to run a golf course for members and the public.

Examinations and playing tests are conducted throughout the 3 years to ensure proficiency. My brother chose the first option, I chose the second.

5. Why is it important to have an instructor with a PGA qualification?

1. Tell us about your golfing background: I started playing golf when I was 8 years old and in my teenage years I played at junior and state levels. From 1980 to 1988 I travelled the world working as Ian Baker-Finch’s caddy.

Then I commenced a 3 year PGA apprenticeship and in 1991 gained the role as head professional at Cheltenham GC in Victoria, Australia, which I held for 11 years. In 2002, I travelled to Mission Hills GC in Shenzhen, China to work for the David Leadbetter Academy.

In 2006, I returned to Melbourne as a PGA Professional at Glen Waverley GC. Then in 2010 I accepted the role as Head Professional at Danang GC, Vietnam 2. What is it like working in Da Nang?

My brother Brad is also a Golf Professional and works in HCMC and he suggested I come to Vietnam to have a look. I worked in HCMC for 9 months before coming to Da Nang. I grew up on the beaches of Australia, so Da Nang felt very much like home to me, the pace of life here is different to HCMC, people are friendly and the golf course is great.

3. What courses do you provide to beginners or amateur golfers?

We offer eight different packages which cover all standards and all budgets, starting at an hour lesson for US $75, junior packages and all the way up to a 5-day intensive course for US $600.

4. Can you explain a little about the PGA certification?

There are two ways that someone can become a golf professional. First, you can gain a players card to play for a certain amount on the golf circuit –

82

There are a number of Golf Teaching groups around the world, GTF(Golf Teachers Federation, USGTF(from USA) and others, where anyone can pay US $2000 for a week of training and at the end of the week get a certificate. In Asia one can start earning money with this certification. There are two schools a year in Thailand that do this. The problem with people who take this track is that they haven’t had the intense scrutiny on their golf game and more importantly they haven’t had their abilities as a golf teacher tested. When I started my apprenticeship there were 43 others with me. At the graduation ceremony there were only 12 of us left. We were trained very intensely on all aspects of the game and on our teaching and management. Sadly new golf players don’t fully understand the differences between a PGA qualification and golf teaching certificate. In which case they might pay hard earned dollars for a poor golf lesson, from which they will improve very little, if at all.

6. What is unique about the practice facility?

Our practice facility boasts a host of swing computerization aids, club fitting kiosks from Titleist and Taylor Made making it a standout in Da Nang as far as technology and custom fitting of golf clubs goes. Our practice fairway has strategically placed bunkering, matching the shapes and sand consistency of what one will find out on the course. We have a wonderful short game area with bunkers, even a fairway bunker for those long sand shots, and of course our huge rolling putting green which is always kept at the same rolling speed as those on the course.

7. What words of encouragement would you have for “virgin” golfers?

New golfers should not feel awkward or uncomfortable about hitting a few balls at the range, everyone who has ever played the game has to start somewhere. There is nothing better than feeling the sun on your back as you stroll along the golf course. I’d suggest a few lessons to get the basics of the game understood. I personally film each student and produce a 7-8 minute video file which is emailed to them a few days after the lesson. It assists the student to adjust to the changes required for improvement without forgetting vital points. Golf is a great game so to be able to do something you love, and to work in a place like Vietnam, to me that is better than winning the lottery!

83

Activities Blue Coral Diving Center Join the most experienced dive team in town to explore the wonders of Cham Island. Full day snorkeling and dive trips include all transportation, equipment, refreshments, instructors and BBQ beach lunch. Overnight camping trips can also be organized. They also have the cheapest rates in town.

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 627 9297 sales@divehoian.com www.divehoian.com Cham Island Diving Center Cham Island offers extraordinary scenery and marine life. This esteemed group provides both diving certificates and beginner’s courses.

Beyond diving, individuals can tour out to the island for snorkeling and relaxing on the beach.

The same group is an affiliate of the Vietnam Sailing company.

88 Nguyen Thai Hoc, HoiAn. Tel: +84 (0)510 3910782 info@chamislanddiving.com www.chamislanddiving.com Danang Golf Club Danang Golf Club comprises two courses of 36 holes, the first of which – The Dunes – is already complete. Designed by Greg Norman, the DGC has a stunning layout with backdrops of the East Sea and Marble Mountains. It also sports a number of facilities including a driving range and top of the range practice facility (such as swing studios with video analysis), café and clubhouse with private dining room, member’s terrace, restaurant and lounge. +84 (0) 511 3958 111 info@dananggolfclub.com www.dananggolfclub.com.vn Dao Tien Cooking Class By far one of the best cooking classes in town, this restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet.

Chef Viet’s classes are comprehensive and more intimate than the better known cooking classes in town. You will get one-on-one tips and learn classics such as Hoi An money bags and spring rolls. His easygoing style and attentive nature will mean you’re likely to try the dishes at home.

21 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 362 2100 reservation@daotienhoian.net www.daotienhoian.net

Hai Café Cooking Class From the same famed owners of Red Bridge, the Hai Café offer an evening cooking class to Hoi An visitors. Learn local favourites in the cooler temperature of the evening, with a garden courtyard as a backdrop. Classes include eating the delicious creations afterwards.

84

LISTING 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc 0510 3862 210 info@visithoian.com www.visithoian.com

Heaven & Earth This new bicycle tour takes visitors to a part of Hoi An that is never seen by tourists. Explore the true countryside and discover the charms of the rural village folk. Tour leader Pascal offers a truly unique experience in his half day morning and afternoon tours.

57 Ngo Quyen 012 2952 7365 www.vietnam-bicycle.com Jack Tran’s Hoi An Eco Tour A green-minded tour company offering localized experiences with the Hoi An people such as fisherman and farming tours as well as river cruises. It is a family business that has been set up for 5 years with the focus of preserving the environment and giving tourists a real insight into rural life. +84 510 3 928. 900 +84 914 082 850 http://hoianecotour.com.vn Hoi An Motorbike Adventures Go for a real adventure on a Russian Minsk with experienced tour guide Mark Wyndham.

Be prepared to go off the beaten track and see some of Vietnam’s finest mountainous landscape. Or bike out to the Hill Tribe towns for a very ‘local’ insight into Vietnamese culture and people. +84 (0) 918 230 653 info@motorbiketours-hoian.com www.motorbiketours-hoian.com Hoi An Photo Tour Find the best photographic opportunities Hoi An has to offer. Etienne Bossot will take you off the beaten track and upclose and personal with the locals. See the cultural, countryside of Hoi An. Both sunrise and sunset tours are available.

Etienne will provide a photo workshop and help you get the right angles and settings for your shots. Bookings essential. +84 905 671 898 www.hoianphototour.com Montgomerie Links Golf Course Tee off on this Colin Montgomerie designed course, with beautiful sweeping views and mountainous surrounds. The challenging 18-hole course is complemented by a driving bay facility, clubhouse, café and pro shop.

PGA lessons for beginner, kids and women are available. www.montgomerielinks.com

LISTING

Activities Morning Glory Cooking School The signature of the Morning Glory restaurant is its ‘street food’ selection and their cooking class will give you a proper introduction into local favourites as well as national cuisines. The classes are designed for those who truly want to grasp the culinary tastes of Vietnam and be able to mimic them on their return home.

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An Tel +84 (510) 241 555 / 241 556 Fax +84 (510) 911 431 gourmet@hoianhospitality.com morningglorycookingschool@gmail.com

Red Bridge Cooking School & Restaurant Red Bridge is famous for its cooking tours, and operates a half-day morning tour and a deluxe day tour throughout the year, as well as an evening class at their sister restaurant Hai Café – go to www.visithoian.com. The Red Bridge Restaurant is romantically set on the Hoi An River outside the main part of town in a serene environment that is perfect for dining on your handmade meal. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and for dinner by request.

Thon 4, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3933222 Email: info@visithoian.com www.visithoian.com Silk Painting (Papillon Noir) Talented local designer Uyen Trinh teaches

painting on silk from her Tran Hung Dao shop.

Join her half day classes to learn the art and bring your own handpainted design home.

30 Tran Hung Dao +84 510 391 7941 www.papillonnoir-fashion.com

The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Tour Join Aussie Neville Dean – a pure street food fanatic – for a half day tour of Hoi An’s best street food vendor offerings. See the vendors up close and in action and then head back for the sampling of 30 or so dishes at the Family restaurant on Nguyen Thai Hoc St. A great introduction to authentic local cuisine. +84 905 382 783 +84 121 7621 693 theteacher@tasteofhoian.com http://www.tasteofhoian.com/ Vietnam Sailing (Cham Island Diving Center) The Central Coast’s only sailing company, Vietnam Sailing does trips out to the Cham Islands and along the shoreline between Hoi An and Da Nang on their Trimarin boat, Oceane.

Foreign skippers man the boat and participants can either learn to sail or simply sit back and enjoy the experience, cocktail in hand.

88, Nguyen Thai Hoc , Hoi An +84 918/255 521 HoiAn@VietnamSailing.com www.vietnamsailing.com

Why not insert your ad in our magazine? > Advertisements start at just as little as $90 > The only magazine in Hoi An, distributed at key entrance points and businesses throughout town. > Put your business on the map!

Swing to Swim Charity Golf Event

Montgomerie Links

The Montgomerie Links and Indochina Land is hosting a Charity Golf Event on Saturday 14th May 2011, in a bid to raise USD $20,000 for the Swim Vietnam Hoi An and Swim Safe Da Nang Swimming Programmes – both aimed at reducing the incidence of drowning in Vietnam. The event is endorsed by the Royal Life Saving Society Australia and World Drowning Prevention Conference.

In Vietnam today, more children are killed by water than road accidents. It is estimated that 11,000 children drown each year and so programmes that create awareness and swimming education are essential to saving lives.

Join in the “Swing to Swim” charity golf day to help raise awareness and funds for local swimming initiatives. The Swim Vietnam Hoi An and Swim Safe Da Nang programmes make a significant difference to the local communities. Without these programmes children wouldn’t be able to swim, particularly those in the poorest and most affected parts of the countryside where flooding is a huge issue.

FEE: All inclusive entry fee VND 3,700,000 (MLV members receive a 10% discount) Tournament Schedule: • 10.00am - arrival • 10.30am – Golf Clinic and exhibition with PGA Professional Lee Marshall • 11.00am – Light Lunch and Golf Tournament Briefing • 12.00pm – Shot gun Start – 18 holes • 2.00pm – Kids Clinic featuring Hoi An Swimming School • 5.00pm - Cocktail Reception, Awards and Auction Items Golf Competitions: • Teams Format (Best Ball) with prizes for: • Hole in One • Nearest the pin • Longest Drive • Beat the Pro • Par 3 “Circle of hope” Please join us to raise money for this good cause on Saturday 14th May 2011.

For more information and reservation please contact us at: Tel: 0510 3941 942 or Ms. Donna Tran – 0905 226 206 Email: reservations@montgomerielinks.com

Contact our sales department sales@livehoianmagazine.com, Amy 016 7345 7364 (English Speaking) or Duc 0905 914 114 (Vietnamese speaking)

87

Dining

DAO TIEN RESTAURANT & COOKING SCHOOL

Aroy-D

Thai Delicious Amy Morison

The word “aroi” in Thai means delicious and certainly that’s the word that comes to mind after dining at one of Hoi An’s latest restaurant additions. As an ex-expat of Bangkok, I was very excited when the restaurant opened its doors early this year. As much as I enjoy local food, I still get intense cravings for certain Thai flavours that are not common in Vietnamese cuisine. And I love the spiciness of Thai food … it’s an addiction!

pork – and soaking rice. Delicious indeed.

Aroy-D is owned and managed by Mr Nanthorn Limtrakarn, a Thai native, and his wife, who hails from Central Vietnam. The menu is not overly-comprehensive or ambitious but includes a decent range of Thai classics.

Despite the challenges with produce availability – certain ingredients, including rice may not be consistently available – the dishes I sampled were all very satisfying indeed. I was also indulged with a request, a pork meat salad that is served with sticky rice (Larb Moo). This is a personal favourite of mine – I love the combined effect of lemongrass, roasted rice, lime, chilli and mint with up the residue sauce with a clump of sticky

“One of Hoi An’s finest dining experiences” Consistently voted in the top 10 of Hoi An restaurants on Trip Advisor, the Dao Tien restaurant will not disappoint even the most sophisticated of culinary experts. Delicious cuisine that is presented with a flair that is unique to Hoi An, Dao Tien is the combined effort of husband/wife team Ms Dao Thi Tien and Chef Le Quoc Viet.

Other mains that have been tried and tested include a Thai Green Curry (with beef), Chicken and Cashew Nuts (I was impressed to be eating proper Thai-style cashews that had been carefully selected at the market), Tom Yum Goong, Deep fried Beef with a Chilli sauce (this dipping sauce is from North-east Thailand and was made perfectly) and Mango with Sticky Rice (real sticky rice, proper coconut sauce – this satiated a 3-month craving!).

The money bags here are famous throughout the country. But then again, everything on the menu is worth sampling. So is their cooking class. Learn the art of Vietnamese cuisine in a more intimate space than most cooking classes and from one of Hoi An’s most experienced chefs.

Another incentive to spice up your palate at Aroy-D (and for those afraid of too much chilli, don’t worry, the dishes are prepared to a mild palate unless you’re a spiceaphile like me and say “Phet dai” or “Spicy can!”) is that the food is MSG-free. There is also plenty of choice for vegetarians.

Ms Tien also founded the “Better Living” school for homeless children, providing kids with an education and vocational skills.

Dining at Dao Tien helps support the school.

Appetizers at Aroy-D range from 65,000-75,000 VND, while mains are 75,000 – 95,000 VND. If you want dishes with sticky rice, I’d recommend making a reservation in advance (at least 4 hours) to ensure they have prepared it. The restaurant is open 7 days a week, 10am to 10pm.

Aroy-D 599 Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (0510) 391 9995 aroyd.vn@gmail.com

88

21 Phan Boi Chau St. Tel: (0510) 362 2100 reservation@daotienhoian.net - www.daotienhoian.net

Dining

Samurai Hoi An’s first Japanese restaurant

Amy Morison Aptly located near Hoi An’s famous Japanese bridge, the Samurai restaurant is the first and only Japanese-specialized restaurant in Hoi An. Founder and manager Mr Genta opened the doors of his quaint establishment earlier this year, offering simple but ‘oishi’ (delicious) home-cooked meals from the land of the rising sun.

Mr Genta’s menu at Samurai is unpretentious; offering ‘soul’ foods and everyday Japanese fare. You won’t find complicated or expensive imported items here, but the dishes he does prepare, don’t fail to satisfy.

The Japanese ‘soul’ foods include miso soup with rice (40,000 VND), cold soba or udon noodle with dressing (90,000 VND), onigiri (rice ball) and miso (60,000 VND).

Other mains and sets that feature on the menu are the popular Sushi set (includes 10 pieces such as shrimp cutlet, California roll, tuna/mayo and tamago for 135,000 VND), Tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet served with rice or cooked with egg for 90,000 VND), Yakitori (skewered BBQ chicken for 60,000 VND), Tempura set (a mixture of shrimp and vegetables fried in tempura batter for 95,000 VND) and Hamburg set (the Japanese version of a hamburger patty, served with rice for 90,000 VND). Classic Japanese items like Edamame (steamed green beans with salt) and Doshimaki (rolled omelette) are also available for 40,000 VND. You can find Samurai by walking to the Japanese bridge via Tran Phu St. Just before the bridge entrance, turn right and walk up the small laneway. Samurai is open every night except Wednesday from 5-10pm. Mr Genta also has a decent selection of Sake, Western wines and offers Asahi beer.

Samurai 188 A/5 Tran Phu (turn right down alleyway before entering Japanese bridge) 012 2850 4627 tange1miyagawa@hotmail.com

90

going gourmet

l i e D o g i n D Amy Morison

No, there is no dog on the menu! To answer a rather amusing suggestion I heard along the Hoi An grapevine. The name ‘Dingo’ instead refers to the Australian background of owners Gordon and Michelle who opened Hoi An’s first gourmet delicatessen earlier this year.

Arguably, Dingo Deli already offers the best sandwiches in town, with fresh-baked breads and items such as the honey ham (shaved in-house directly off the leg) and imported cheeses (camembert and gorgonzola that melt in the mouth) becoming legendary. Friendly couple Michelle and Gordon have melded the delicatessen concept with a café, offering modern, yet relaxed dining areas for guests as well as a gourmet retail shop.

For families, the backyard play area is great, which includes an extensive wooden climbing construct and big trampoline.

Beyond sandwiches, the deli also offers a large selection of Western home favourites. From nachos, tacos, wedges, meat pies, quiches, burgers and pastas, there is something for everyone and the costs are reasonable (meals average between 60,000 – 100,000 VND). Cheese platters, wines and dessert such as cakes and tarts are also available. And let’s not forget the coffee. Dingo serves outstanding Lavazza coffee and the staff have been specially trained by Lavazza. They also use 100% fresh milk from Dalat which makes a huge difference to the taste – in fact, try their milkshakes too!

Open for breakfast from 7am (with a comprehensive menu that includes eggs benedict, full Aussie style breaky, pancakes, French toast and more) the Dingo Deli can also organize picnic baskets, platters or take away on request. They close at 7pm.

Dingo Deli 229 Cua Dai Rd - 0906 552 824

91

Dining Al Fresco’s

Aussie hospitality hits the Hoi An spot Amy Morison “When the ribs arrive, I get out of the way. It’s like witnessing a pride of ravenous lions,” pronounced a friend during an Al Fresco’s delivery experience.

Yes, the “home of the jumbo ribs” has finally reached Hoi An – and much to the delight of locals.

While famous for their delectable BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s – as the Italian name suggests – offers a wide range of quality Western cuisine. The Al Fresco’s group includes several restaurants throughout Vietnam, although this is the first in Hoi An. Their very first restaurant opened more than 14 years ago and the Al Fresco’s name has been established as one of the best and most consistent group of Western food outlets that Vietnam has seen. Italian and BBQ mains comprise the core of the menu, however, seafood dishes also feature prominently. The dishes are presented in the flair of an Australian bar and grill.

The venue in Hoi An is a comfortable area with Al Fresco dining areas in both the front and back courtyards. Located on Tran Hung Dao it is very near to the old quarter and yet always accessible by car or motorbike.

Besides ribs, the pizzas, pastas, burgers, steaks and Mexican all come highly recommended. Al Fresco’s maintains the same high standards for food quality and service as in the larger metropolitan areas of Ha Noi and HCMC. So if you’re craving some decent comfort food that is guaranteed to meet the same standards of quality as back home, then this is the place.

During the day, Al Fresco’s also has an excellent value set lunch – it is a 3 course set with various choices including tea or coffee for 155,000 VND. They also have different specials for delivery and happy hour is every day from 4-7pm. The frozen margaritas are exceptional! Open for breakfast from 8:30am and all day until 11pm (last order for food is 10pm).

Al Fresco’s 83 Tran Hung Dao. Tel: (0510) 3929 707 www.alfrescosgroup.com

92

The Last Great

Taste of Hoi An In our last issue street food aficionado Neville Dean gave Live Hoi An readers his perspective as a ‘squataholic’ – a person who enjoys street food as it should be - squatting and eating street-side.

Now Neville has taken his passion to another level, one that gives visitors an authentic local food tasting experience without the discomfort of actually sitting in the street. Having identified and connected with Hoi An’s vast network of street food vendors, Neville recently started a tour called ‘The Last Great Taste of Hoi An’.

Basically, guests are taken on a walking adventure to some of Hoi An’s premier street hawkers. From the sweet lady who sells tofu in a ginger sauce, to the old man who has been proffering his sesame paste dessert for more than 70 years, Neville’s tour takes visitors to meet the anonymous faces of Hoi An street food – faces they may not otherwise notice without a local guide.

After experiencing the walking part of the tour, guests are then invited back to a tasting class at the Ancient House of Gia Dinh in main town where a wide selection of these foods is presented to them. All foods are bought directly from the vendors – most of whom visitors saw or met on their tour. It is a wonderful introduction to the local foods of Hoi An , many of which could be considered delicacies with recipes passed down from generation to generation.

“Many visitors are curious when they walk past a street food vendo but cannot communicate about what the food actually is. Also, they have reservations about how safe it is to eat. My objective with the tour is to give visitors a safe opportunity to try these foods – we ensure the food is handled hygienically and provide a comfortable venue to try it.

The benefit also goes back to the vendors as we buy directly from them,” explained Neville.

Tours start at 8am and finish at 11am. The cost is US $30 per person and includes non-alcoholic beverages as well as all the food on the tasting menu. Bookings are essential.

Taste of Hoi An Bookings @ Family Restaurant 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0905 382 783 (Neville Dean)

www.tasteofhoian.com theteacher@tasteofhoian.com

93

Dining Indulge In Style Breezy Colibri:

Fine ITALIAN on the Beach Amy Morison The relationship between Mediterranean cuisine and the ocean is always complementary.

And the Colibri restaurant – ‘Colibri’ refers to a type of boat in Italian – at the Palm Garden resort illustrates just how extraordinary that relationship can be. Colibri’s oceanfront position and tropical garden backdrop provide a peerless, romantic atmosphere while its innovative menu will impress even the most discerning of gourmet travellers.

While fine dining options are expected of a luxury resort, their menus – particularly in Italian restaurants – tend to be conservative despite the flamboyant prices. Fortunately for guests at Colibri, neither classification applies. The menu is anything but typical and the pricing is affordable – make that highly reasonable – for the quality.

The menu combines the Vietnamese approach to freshness (what is available in the market) and the Western standard for quality and consistency.

The menu is special, however, because of its refreshing grouping of ingredients. Take the Special Colibri Pizza as an example. It includes green mussels (unique to the nearby Cham Islands), honey ham, pineapple, tomatoes, apple and oregano. Or the Penne Opera – a pasta that marries locally smoked duck breast with asparagus, spring onions and tomatoes. Other highlights include the Summer Minestrone, a lighter version of the Italian classic that is more suited to the tropics; Don Stefano pizza (asparagus, fresh salmon and camembert); Herbed Lamb Rack and Australian Beef Tenderloin which is grilled to par excellence and is very popular among guests.

Appetizers at Colibri range from US $5-10, while Asian mains are between US $5-20, and Western mains between US $15-30. The Lamb is a reasonable US $25, while the Australian beef tenderloin is US $30. The resort often organizes summer buffets too which often incorporate a local theme. Their Hoi An seafood market buffet is a prime example of how guests can take advantage of the truly exquisite local produce available in Central Vietnam with local lobster, prawns, crab, clam and various fish available. Check with the front desk for the current F&B promotions.

Colibri Palm Garden Resort, Cua Dai beach. Tel: (0510) 3 927 927 info@pgr.com.vn - www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

94

White Marble Wine Bar Amy Morison

The White Marble wine bar and restaurant opened its doors over 2 years ago with a simple objective: to offer a slick alternative to the rowdier backpacker venues common to Hoi An. And despite a significant overhaul to the food menu in more recent times, the bar has achieved its aim and become an icon of local sophistication.

“We wanted to create a wine specific bar, where you can sit in a relaxed environment and order a premium glass or bottle of wine, away from the usual revelry of the popular bars in old town. Our location is prime. We’re right on the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Thai Hoc streets, which is convenient for tourists and offers great street-watching opportunities,” explained one of the Australian owners’, Richard.

While wine is central to the experience – with over 50 varieties from around the world to choose from – White Marble has garnered a positive reputation among foodies too. The unique menu has an Asian focus with international reach and includes tapas, mains, cheese and tasting platters.

The tasting platter of appetizers comes highly recommended; it is a medley of the restaurant’s best entrees (spring rolls, money bags, grilled beef in betel leaf, banana flower salad, sushi and fish cakes) and is great value for just 165,000 VND. Other menu highlights include the flour-dusted calamari, wok-tossed chicken and cashew nuts, Vietnamese ‘cha ca’ (fish with dill), mango salad and tiger prawns and Ha Noi beef. Vegetarians can rejoice too with some refreshing choices including pumpkin laksa and tofu alternatives to a number of the starter and mains. Mains range from 60,000 to 150,000 VND. Classic Hoi An and Western baguette sandwiches are available as well as a cheese board (includes three European cheeses – soft, hard and blue) which comes in half (100,000 VND) or full size (170,000 VND).

With its classic Hoi An colonial veneer and location, White Marble makes for an excellent venue to imbibe and while away the time. The modish interiors and extensive menu (with 11 wines available just by glass) also makes for a comfortable experience that isn’t uncomfortably expensive. A tip from us: try one of the owners’ family wines – the French Island brand – the pinot noir is sublime!

White Marble 98 Le Loi Street. Tel: (0510) 3911 862 www.visithoian.com/whitemarble

95

The Morning Glory Cookbook: An Excerpt from Chapter 6

Mermaid: My First Restaurant By the early 1990s the Vietnamese economy was changing and my parents’ restaurant business began to suffer. My parents had grown weary with work. They no longer had the energy or saw a future in the business and so they made the decision to close the restaurant. This affected me profoundly. I asked Father what he thought I should do – should I stay in Hoi An? I was working as a tailor at the time but my real passion was in the restaurant business. Father was wise in his advice. He reflected on all the times we considered leaving Hoi An or had even attempted to escape and yet remained here. He believed there was a reason for this and that I should wait to see what direction the town would take under the new economy.

He told me that I should follow my heart, that there was potential in the

96

town and that if I decided to start my own restaurant business, I would have the support of him and Mother.

After my talk with Father I started looking for a venue that would be suitable for my own restaurant. I saw that the old police station garage on the main street of Tran Phu was being renovated and would soon be made available for rent. This was perfect! Its central position would guarantee passing trade as well as regular business from the market. When the building went to auction, there were numerous bidders and the price rose quickly. It dawned on me that I may never find a location like this again; I had to have this building! Suddenly, to my surprise – and everyone else’s – I put in a bid that would close the deal. As soon the words exited my mouth,

97

I panicked, thinking, “Oh my goodness, how am I going to pay the deposit?

I have no money!” On the outside, however, I remained calm and told the auctioneer that I would return soon with the money.

Straight after the auction I went to see my parents. They asked if I had succeeded in getting the site; I replied quietly that I had. They knew something was wrong but I told them everything was fine, that I was sorting it out. At that time I was literally wringing my hands with worry – it was then that I also noticed the shiny new wedding ring on my finger. Its worth in gold would be enough for the deposit. I made the decision to pawn my wedding ring and get the deposit money so I could open the restaurant.

My instincts told me this was the right choice to support my family.

After paying the initial rent, I had 5,000 VND (back then this was US $0.50c) leftover – this wasn’t enough to buy a day’s worth of food for a family, let alone an entire restaurant of people. But I wasn’t worried about getting supplies, I knew that I would be able to get food from the market vendors as they all knew and respected my parents. I focused on getting the restaurant ready for launch. On the opening day, I went to the market early and placed a food order with all the vendors, requesting that they allow me to pay them at the end of the day. Since I had worked in the marketplace all my life and they had supplied my parents for years, they accepted the arrangement in good faith. At 10am, Mother placed an offering in front of the restaurant doors and we lit firecrackers for good luck. It was the April of 1992 and I had a restaurant. This was my dream; the one I believed would help resolve all my family’s struggles.

After the launch, business seemed to improve each day with a mixture of old and new customers. Suddenly it was the winter of 1992 – 6 months had gone by in a flash! I remember the end of this period vividly because I went to check my money belt to see what the situation was with the accounts. I was astonished to see I had made the equivalent of US $100 profit. This was a lot of money back then! I was sure I had made a mistake and counted again. It was correct.

My first instinct was to walk to my parent’s house. It was dark and so I was using a flashlight. When I arrived, Mother called out in concern.

As I entered, I almost knocked her over in excitement. When I showed her the money she reacted in disbelief, asking whose money it was. Then she checked my accounts book to see which suppliers I owed money to and also came to the same realization. A smile crept over her face and I found myself beaming back at her. I had accomplished what I had set out to do.

This money would be more than enough to pay for my brother’s and sisters’ schooling and would help both sides of my family with the bills. It was more money than I ever imagined I could make. I felt both a sense of relief and of pride – I had been right to trust my instincts and start the restaurant business.

Towards the very end of 1992, I experienced one of the most memorable moments of my working life. All my lunch guests had left and I was cleaning up the restaurant. At that time I only served breakfast and lunch.

There was still some food left over on the display counter. I planned to take it away for the family. Then a foreign man stopped on his bicycle in front of the restaurant. He peered into the remnants of the display cabinet and then called over to a small group of friends. They were talking and gesticulating in English. Soon, they were trying to communicate with me, using sign language. I understood they wanted to make a reservation. I was completely tongued-tied – they looked so strange to me; I had never seen a Caucasian up close. I was very shy. They took out a notebook and wrote the number ‘4’ and ‘7’ – I understood; four people for 7pm. I managed to say “Thank you” in English, smiling, not really knowing how to react.

Normally I didn’t serve dinner at the restaurant, but I wasn’t going to miss this opportunity to cook for foreigners. I immediately ran to my parent’s home to ask for their help. I arrived breathless and hot-faced which concerned Father. “What’s wrong, what’s happened?”

“I need your help!” I yelped and started to explain but the words toppled over each other. I took a breath and started again. “We have four people booked for dinner.”

98

99

“So what’s wrong with four people?” he asked. “You are used to serving hundreds, so it’s hardly difficult for you. And why did you take a booking for the evening anyway when you’re tired after a full day’s work?”

“But Father, they are foreigners,” I said, thinking he would now understand why I was so flustered. But he dismissed this information too, saying “You know I don’t speak Russian.”

Father had been friends with some Americans during the war and could speak basic English, so I knew he could help communicate with the guests. At that time though, most of the Westerners that visited Vietnam were Russian as hardly any other nationalities were allowed into the country. So naturally he assumed that’s where our guests were from. “I don’t think they’re Russian. They speak only in English and the man is very hairy.”

Father’s eyes lit up, now he was definitely curious. It had been many years since he’d had any contact with foreigners, so this was an exciting chance for him to use his English. “Don’t panic,” he said. “Mother and I will come and help you.”

We went back to the restaurant early in the evening to tidy it up more and discuss what to serve. Apart from Father and Mother, my siblings and I had no knowledge of what most foreigners looked like, having only been exposed to the occasional Russian film. We had no idea of their customs, appearance and – most importantly in this context – what kind of food

crispy white eggplant This is a countryside dish that makes a typical vegetable look extravagant. The delicate cutting technique and cooking method are unique and the eggplant has a really meaty texture. It’s hard to believe it’s only a vegetable. This is one of my personal favourites!

ingredients 4 round white eggplants (see page 235) ½ cup vegetable oil 2 tblsp white spring onions, sliced 1 tblsp shallots, pounded 1 cup green spring onions, sliced 1 tblsp mild red chilli and garlic, pounded 1 tsp fish sauce 2 tsp soya sauce ¼ tsp sugar 2 ½ litres water 3 tblsp sea salt 1 lemon or lime few drops of white vinegar

method Cut stems off eggplants then turn over. Slice eggplants thinly two thirds of the way through. Turn over, then turn clockwise 90 degrees and slice thinly halfway down until the slices meet each other and overlap by 1cm.

Soak in 1.5 litres of water with 2 tblsp salt and juice of 1 lemon or lime. Place a heavy plate on top of the eggplants to keep them under the water. Soak 1 hour.

Bring 1 litre of water to a rapid boil with 1 tblsp salt and a few drops of vinegar.

Add eggplants. Boil for 8-10 minutes. Remove eggplants and put in cold water immediately. Place one eggplant on a small plate. Put another small plate on top. Press firmly in the direction of the slices to make a fan. Drain off all juices and pat dry. Repeat with remaining eggplants.

Heat oil in a pan, shallow fry eggplants for 5 minutes on each side until golden and crispy, pressing down with a spatula to flatten. Drain well. Discard half the oil from the pan. Add white spring onions and shallots, cook 1 minute. Add green spring onions and fish sauce, stir for a further 30 seconds then turn off heat. Dissolve sugar in soya sauce in a small bowl.

Drizzle eggplants with soya sauce, spring onion mixture and garnish with chilli and garlic mix.

Serves 4 as a side dish.

206

207

they liked. After discussing for a while, Father made a practical suggestion – he said to use the fresh ingredients we had and he would explain to the guests what dishes we could make. He found some cutlery he had kept from his time in the army; they were old and battered with the initials U.S. inscribed on them. The plan was that Mother and I would be in the background preparing food and cooking, while Father would be the host.

Once they arrived, Mother and I stepped back while Father greeted them.

He didn’t appear confident though – he hadn’t used English for 15 years.

He was also a little nervous as it was very unusual to be seen talking with Westerners, he probably felt the eyes of all the neighbours on him.

100

I didn’t want to lose my first Western customers and it looked like Father was struggling to talk with them. When they sat down, I felt more relaxed. But then I watched Father talking and smiling with them for a long time without returning to the kitchen. When he came to the back, I asked for their order. He had forgotten to take it. His reply was, “I was too excited to practice my English that I forgot!”

We had no menu, no idea how to serve them, or what to serve them.

“You need to talk to them about food,” I said anxiously. Father tried. He tried with a mixture of English and French. He took a long time and didn’t make any progress because they didn’t speak French and his English didn’t encompass cooking terminology. He could have named every part of an army radio, but he had no idea how to translate “fried” or “boiled.” So I decided to be more proactive. I put all the ingredients we had into a basket to show them. There were river shrimp, squid, a fish and lots of vegetables. They pointed to everything. Impossible! Just the fish would feed a whole family

101

and there were four of them. I had to make sure they really wanted it all as I was concerned about losing money. Yes, they did, they gestured. They must have been very hungry, or very curious, I thought. Then I tried to find out how they wanted it cooked but they didn’t understand either Father or me.

Tired from all his efforts, Father turned to me and said, “Whatever way you want to cook, just cook it!”

That is just what I did. I cooked everything as if I was preparing a special meal for my own family. I desperately wanted to impress them but could only cook the way I knew. The first dish I prepared was a starter of roasted river shrimp in a claypot and served with a dipping sauce of lime, salt and pepper. Mother and I then steamed the silver bream and served it with black bean sauce, ginger and coriander. The last dish was stir-fried squid with basil, pineapple and zucchini. All these were complemented by steamed rice. It was a roaring success.

The customers became animated over everything I brought out and took many photographs. Father and I eyed their camera with fascination.

We loved the idea of being in photos and wanted our guests to include us in their snaps. They happily obliged. An interesting observation I made that night, and also over the years, is that visitors to Hoi An love to take pictures of landscapes, objects and even plates of food – photos without people in them. To most locals, a photo without a person is strange; we don’t see the point.

chicken with ginger sauce This is another family recipe but there are various versions throughout Vietnam. I prefer to use a free range chicken and keep the skin on to give it a more gelatinous consistency. The effect of the ginger with the chicken is just heavenly. This is a great winter dish.

ingredients 500gr chicken breast, sliced thinly 1/3 cup vegetable oil 1 tblsp shallots, pounded ¼ cup ginger, sliced finely 2 tblsp fish sauce ¾ tsp sea salt 1 tsp sugar ½ tsp coarse black pepper ¼ tsp dried chilli flakes 2 cups onion slices, 2cm wide 12 spring onion stalks, white part only 1½ cups baby celery leaves with small stems ¼ tsp sesame oil

200

method On a wok burner heat a large wok. Add oil, onions, spring onions, ginger and shallots.

Stir and cook 1 minute. Add chicken, fish sauce, salt, sugar, pepper and chilli, stirring constantly for 3-4 minutes. Add celery leaves and sesame oil.

Serve with steamed rice.

Season to taste.

Serves 4 as a main.

201

Our guests that night were also very interested in the cutlery Father had set out for them to use. They seemed very amused by it, pointing at the U.S. initials and laughing, but I did not understand why. They were more communicative and friendly after the meal, and we all felt more social.

Father was much more relaxed and confident and even fetched his guitar to play.

questions such as “Why is he so hairy?

Can I touch him?”

“How do they sleep?”

“Do they normally eat rice?” None of the locals intended to be rude, they were just so curious. Facial features were also a fascinating topic – the shape of the noses were quite different, we thought the shape of the women’s noses, which were more pointed and narrower, were beautiful. It was difficult to refrain from staring.

The night was a success for us; our guests had drunk a lot of beer, eaten a lot of food and enjoyed themselves. We felt satisfied too. They were kind people and paid more than was necessary, making it a financial success. But more importantly, it nourished our spirits and gave me energy – I wanted to do the same thing again. I felt proud to be a host. Their polite behaviour and obvious interest in our food culture was refreshing to me. Fortunately that night I had taken the opportunity to get them to write down the name of each dish they had eaten in English. The next day I wrote out these three dishes on an A4 size paper sign with a felt pen and put it up in front of the restaurant. This was probably the first English menu Hoi An had seen since 1975. Tourists soon started coming more regularly and we were the first restaurant in Hoi An to cater to both locals and Westerners.

To read more of Ms Vy’s memoirs, you can purchase the Taste Vietnam book from the Morning Glory restaurant at 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St or visit www.restaurant-hoian.com

It was getting late and we had to hint that they should leave by turning off some of the lights; we did not want to attract unwanted attention.

In fact many locals were in front of the restaurant, staring in awe at our customers. I had to shoo some away as they came in asking me all sorts of

102

103

Dining

King Prawn with Pasta by Chef Nando

FEATURE CHEFS & RECIPE

Green chili One of the newer restaurants in the old quarter, the Green chili restaurant has already been enticing visitors and expats with its unique menu. Now, the restaurant boasts not only one, but two of Hoi An’s best chefs!

Chef Nando is a Vietnamese native who specializes in Italian and Vietnamese. He lived in Milan for 4 years so when we say “specialized” in Italian, we really mean it! Nando loves to work in an open kitchen and interact with the customers. His high quality cuisine is based on the freshest of local ingredients and experience. The King Prawn with Pasta dish is one of Nando’s personal recipes that he has shared with us for this issue’s feature recipe.

Chef Nando is also now complemented by American chef Scott Marquis who is poised to spice up the other Western and Tex Mex aspects of the menu. Scott’s vast experience in cooking has taken him to several countries and restaurants.

Expats in Hoi An are very familiar with Scott’s menus and are looking forward to tasting his new inventions and specials at Green chili. Expect Tex Mex-inspired meat mains, homemade flour and corn tortillas, smoked chicken (on the BBQ), fish tacos and fajitas to name but a few of the dishes Scott will introduce to the menu.

2 fresh king prawns Olive oil (tbsp) Chili chopped (to taste) White wine ½ cup Salt / pepper to taste Parmesan (about 50g shaved)

150g pasta Garlic – few clove Italian parsley (chopped to taste) Fresh tomato x 3 (medium size) Tomato sauce (Heinz or similar) – 2 tbsp

Remove shells from the prawn body and de-vein them, keeping both the head and tail on.

Panfry the prawns in oil with garlic and chili. Cook for 3-4 minutes then add the parsley, wine and tomatoes. Cook the pasta al dente. Mix the cooked prawn with the pasta and tomato sauce.

Add salt and pepper to your taste, parsley for garnish and sprinkle with shaved parmesan.

Dining

LISTING

Our ratings - $ = below US $5, $$ = between $5-15, $$$ = above $15 Al Fresco’s If you’re craving a decent Western meal after oodles of noodles in ‘Nam, then Al Fresco’s is the most consistent and reputable place in town. From steaks, to pizzas, pastas and the famous BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s have a menu to suit all tastes. Their Aussie-minded hospitality and across-the-board high standards ensure you won’t be disappointed.

83 Tran Hung Dao 0510 3929 707 www.alfrescosgroup.com $$

Cava Brasserie This tastefully decorated restaurant also features a proper wine cellar and cigar humidor.

Owner Carl has been in the restaurant business in Hoi An for over 10 years. The menu features excellent grilled items and Mediterranean tapas. Cava caters to customers with sophisticated tastes but is also great value for the quality. There a very pleasant al fresco area for dining too.

53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Tel: 0510 391 1646 $$$

with Chef Scott Marquis cooking up Southwestern classics such as Fajitas, Nachos, Quesadillas and Tacos. Grilled items such as the steaks and ribs are also popular with guests.

Meanwhile, Italian-trained Vietnamese Chef Nando maintains the Mediterranean and local menu, which are also sensational. Ask about their top shelf mescals and tequilas.

122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 392 8199 info@greenchilihoian.com www.greenchilihoian.com $$

Art Rest This art deco style restaurant is built into one of Hoi An’s ancient house structures. Local staples are beautifully presented and always taste fresh. Try the ‘Village Chicken” dishes or classics such as Spring rolls which are up there with the best Hoi An has to offer.

135 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 925 $$

Citronella One of Hoi An’s better culinary venues. Superb food and atmosphere on the other side of the Japanese bridge from the old quarter – and an excellent outdoor river view. Recommended are the Five Spices Squid, Pan-fried Salted Shrimp, Hoi An Wonton and Hoi An Grilled Fish. For the reasonable cost this one of the town’s must-try restaurants.

5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 0510 2241 491 $$

Good Morning Vietnam For Italian cuisine aficionados, Good Morning Vietnam is the perfect dining venue. Their positive reputation throughout Vietnam is widely known and the Hoi An branch is no exception, with Chef Alberto serving up fine Italian cuisine and ensuring high quality and friendly service. Their other branches, La Hostaria in HCM city and Good Morning Vietnam in Nha Trang, are also of the same standard of excellence serving only authentic Italian food.

102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 227 $$-$$$

Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. If you want quiet, there is an upstairs area for dining, otherwise soak up the music and mingle downstairs. They offer a menu of mostly international and Vietnamese dishes – the pizzas and pastas are consistently good.

51 Le Loi St 0510 3910 599 $$ Cham Island Dive Bar & Restaurant “A place where people come to meet people” is the catchphrase of this friendly bar and restaurant which is serviced by the same group who run the Cham Island Diving tours. Their menu is extensive, with great value BBQ sets as well as Mediterranean dishes.

88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: 0918 25 55 21 chamislanddiving@gmail.com $$ Cargo One of Hoi An’s most established and consistent restaurants, this is Live Hoi An’s favourite place for breakfast, but the menu is suitable for all times of the day. Their Italian and local dishes are all first-rate and the patisserie ensures excellent desserts. This has both street and river views.

107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: 0510 3910 489 www.restaurant-hoian.com $$

106

Dao Tien This top ranking Vietnamese restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. For reasonablypriced, superb Vietnamese dining Dao Tien is by far one of the best restaurants in town.

Moreover, Chef Viet’s cooking classes are famous for good reason. Dao Tien is also socially-conscious –Ms Tien has a training school called “Better Living” that gives underprivileged kids culinary or service skills.

A number of the Dao Tien employees have been trained in the school.

21 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 362 2100 reservation@daotienhoian.net www.daotienhoian.net $$

Hai Café Bar & Grill This charming 19th century classic Chinese building has been renovated into a spacious restaurant serving both Vietnamese and International dishes. Their lovely garden courtyard serves up a delicious nightlybarbecue, and their versions of local classics are renowned – namely White Rose and Com Ga. Hai Cafe also offers evening cooking classes as part of its Red Bridge Cooking School.

98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3863 210 Email: info@visithoian.com www.visithoian.com $$

Dingo Deli This deli-run café and retail business is the only one of its kind in Hoi An. Buy imported cold cut meats (such as hams, salamis), cheeses and other gourmet delights here. They have a modern, indoor café and outdoors area with kids’ playground. Wifi, Lavazza coffee and a spare Mac for guest use are some of the other perks of dining here. The menu includes sandwiches, pastas, burgers, nachos, pies and more.

229 Cua Dai Rd 0906 552 824 http://dingodeli.com/ $$

Hoi An Garden Set amongst a tropical garden this charming colonial restaurant offers fine Vietnamese dining at reasonable prices. While it is not far from old town Hoi An Garden transports you to a different era, where you are treated like royalty. Enjoy local specialties and grilled items, as well as the daily set lunch menu which is a very affordable $12. Throw coins in the lucky fountain in the main courtyard.

246 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 392 4779 www.hoiangarden.com manager@hoiangarden.com

Green Chili Hoi An’s only Tex-Mex specializing restaurant

Hoi An Hai San This Hoi An restaurant has a long-deserved reputation for excellent seafood and top

value for money. Bookings may be necessary because this is often packed out, even during the low season. For unbeatably fresh oceaninspired cuisine by the river, look no further than here. We highly recommend their seafood platter.

64 Bach Dang St Tel: 0510 3861652 $$-$$$ l’Annam, Victoria Resort Overlooking the sea, l’Annam Restaurant offers casual all day dining, international or local Vietnamese and Asian cuisine with freshly caught seafood specialties. Check their specials which are always recommended – in fact the food is always par excellence here. Victoria also arrange special romantic dinners on the beach which are catered for by the head chef. Don’t forget breakfast either which is by far the best deal in town for outside guests at only $12 net.

Cua Dai Road, Hoi An 0510 3927040 http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$ La Plage Located on the far right of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach this sweet little open-air café does great French-Viet food, as well as burgers and classic sandwiches. They also have plenty of activities to keep you busy. Yoga, art classes and sports are available here as well as movie nights (Sundays and Thursdays).

Far right, An Bang beach 0510 3392 8244 www.laplagehoian.com $$ Luong Gia This relatively new restaurant is owned by the same family that run the well-known Before & Now. Fantastic Vietnamese and Italian are their specialties and the ambiance is quite unique – both old relics and contemporary art feature in an inviting space. There is a romantic atmosphere which is appropriately matched with a large selection of wines.

34 Le Loi St 0510 3 911 899 luonggia@beforennow.com $$ Mango Mango The second restaurant of Duc and Ly of the famed Mango Rooms, this delightful restaurant has a great ambience as well as tantalizing menu. Duc’s imagination has gone wilder with more local dishes being meshed with Mediterranean and Latino tastes. Signature dishes include the red snapper and squid rings.

45 Nguyen Phuc Chu Tel: 0510 3911 863 www.themangomango.com $$$

107

Dining

LISTING

Mango Rooms Mango Rooms is famous throughout Vietnam (and also internationally) for its exquisite cuisine. Caribbean and South American influences are seen in the interior, while the menu draws on local produce hinted with Latino flavours. Perfect for dining and chilling, founder chef Duc also makes for great conversation and entertainment.

111 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3910 839 www.mangorooms.com $$$

River Lounge Restaurant This well-located bar and loung offers a European café style atmosphere with an Asian menu. There is an actual lounge upstairs along with a manmade beach next to the main ground restaurant, giving guests a chance to experience all kinds of chill. Food highlights are the Asian Set Menu, a fusion of dishes designed

by Austrian Michelin-star chef Michael Schwartzmann.

35 Nguyen Phuc Chu 0510 3911 700 $$

Mermaid This local institution offers a comprehensive Vietnamese menu with local dishes punctuating the selection. A large garden area adds to the atmosphere and service is efficient and friendly. We’ve only heard good remarks about this established restaurant near to the main market.

2 Tran Phu St. Tel: 0510 3861 527 $$

Sakura Restaurant & Cooking Class This restaurant is majestically located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets with a stunning terrace balcony overlooking the river. A long-established restaurant, Sakura’s name may be misleading as the menu is gourmet Vietnamese, not Japanese.

Try their special Sakura Hoi An Set Menu which comprises seven dishes, three of which are shellfish (lobster, prawns, crab) for 259,000 VND or house specialties such as Pan-fried Shrimp with Scallion Ravioli, Duck Leg with Cheese and Green Pepper or the Lobster in Butter Garlic Sauce. Sakura is a great venue to drink in atmosphere of Hoi An, offering a well-executed, comprehensive menu. Their cooking classes are also highly regarded.

0510 3910 369 sakurahoian@vnn.vn www.hoiansakura.com $$-$$$

Miss Ly This famous café has been in business for many years and is an expat favourite. Her wontons are a must try as well as all other local specialties.

The standard of food is excellent in this little restaurant and the prices very reasonable.

22 Nguyen Hue St 0510 3 861 603 lycafe22@yahoo.com 0905 234 864 $-$$ Morning Glory Cooking School & Restaurant This restaurant is a must-visit venue for those wanting to experience the real street foods of Hoi An (without actually sitting on the street).

Both traditional and newly inspired dishes are on the menu with healthy choices too. The vegetarian Cao Lau, Crispy Tofu peppermint salad, Chicken with Lime Leaves and Seaweed Fish Soup are but a few of our favourites.

106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: 0510 324 1555 $$ Red Bridge Restaurant & Cooking Class The cooking class at Red Bridge is more famous than for dining at the restaurant, however we see it is one of the most pleasant venues to eat in Hoi An. Being further down the river than the main throng of restaurants it offers tranquility as well as a fantastic menu. We recommend a late lunch followed by sparkling wine and a sunset boat ride back into the old town.

Thon 4, Cam Thanh Tel: 0510 3933 222 www.visithoian.com $$$

108

Secret Garden Not unlike the name of the novel, this special restaurant is located within a private garden enclosure in a residential matrix in the heart of the old town. You will find the laneway that leads to the restaurant most easily from Le Loi St where the Com Ga stall is. Mouthwatering Vietnamese cuisine in a Spanish-influenced al fresco garden, unparalleled atmosphere and service make this restaurant a not-to-be-missed experience in Hoi An. We recommend trying their Mekong Delta rice wine too.

Alley 60 Le Loi, Hoi An 0510 221 2640 www.secretgardenhoian.com $$$ Senses Restaurant, Life Resort The Senses Restaurant menu captures the essence of Life Resort. It is a sophisticated blend of East and West influences, that maximizes on fresh local produce. The fine dining, open-air restaurant serves up cuisine that will excite even the most pampered of palates .Try exotic fusions from their executive chef while soaking up the serene and stunning view of Hoi An across the Thu Bon river.

0510 3914 555 1 Pham Hong Thai St www.life-resorts.com $$$-$$$$

Soul Kitchen On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy the gourmet delights of Chef Mien whose culinary talents are fast becoming famous as one of the best in town. They have daily specials depending on the market produce and also do French-bistro style foods, also depending on Chef Mien’s mood. Excellent value food, peerless ambiance (the view is spectacular and there are both dining tables or sofas to lounge on) and reasonable prices make this a must-try on your Hoi An trip.

Far left, An Bang/Cam An beach http://www.soulkitchen.sitew.com Streets International This modern café offers an excellent menu of local classics and Western sandwiches – their Paninis are the best in town. Also, all the staff are trained under the Streets International program for underprivileged youth, and their English and hospitality skills are second to none. Open for both lunch and dinner, the meals at Streets are delicious and – as the slogan says, it is – ‘Good Food Helping Good Kids’.

17 Le Loi 0510 3911 948 streetsinternational.org $$ Tam Tam Café A local and tourist favourite, Tam Tam Café draws a mixed crowd of visitors and expats.

They’ve expanded from their original venue to include Tam Tam Garden but both venues are connected. The service, food and atmosphere in both places is par excellence. Try the desserts in Tam Tam Garden and the cocktails in Tam Tam Café. Also, Italian pasta dishes are highly recommended.

110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St (Alternate entrance at 121 Tran Phu).

0510 3862 212 $$ Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort The beautiful open-air terrace café is offers diners an exception experience of traditional and international cuisine. The architecture embodies the soul of olden Vietnam, while the

view of the tropical garden and fresh breeze of the ocean make the experience all the more special. The breakfast buffet offers a wide selection of Asian and Western cuisine while there is aa specially designed international a la carte menu for dinner.

Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn $$$ Thi Nhan This long-established seafood restaurant provides excellent value for money. Fresh, quality seafood dishes (the tamarind crab is famous) feature at Ms Nhan’s 14 year old restaurant. Her seafood sets are highly recommended.

128 Cua Dai St 0510 3862 261 0978 322 336 $$-$$$ Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm.

150 Bach Dang 0511 384 3373 info@waterfrontdanang.com www.waterfrontdanang.com $$$ White Marble The first fully-fledged wine bar in Hoi An, White Marble has a prime location on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi St. Their great wine selection is complemented by an eclectic tapas menu. This is a fantastic venue for peoplewatching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town.

98 Le Loi St, Hoi An +84 (0) 510 3911862 www.visithoian.com/whitemarble $$$

Entertainment

LISTING

LISTING

Accomodation

Ratings: $ = USD $10-20, $$ = 20-60, $$$ = $60-100, $$$$ = $100 and above Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. Alternative, Brit Pop and Indie music feature prominently in the mixed selections.

Canvasses of art peer out of the walls – for example, a rendition of the Mona Lisa with a ‘peace’ bandana across her mouth and an AK-47 is one of the more noticeable pieces. Lounge spaces out the back make for an intimate, laid back scene. Free pool and foosal. Excellent drink promotions with daily happy hours from 6pm12am. Often open until 1:30am with a shuttle bus to the Zeroseamile beach club.

51 Le Loi St 0510 3910 599 www.beforennow.com Contino Bar Get into the rhythm at Palm Garden Resort’s Contino Bar with live band Salvanota. The slick bar has ocean and beautiful garden views, creating a perfectly relaxing atmosphere. Join their happy hour for one for one drinks between 5 and 8pm. Outside guests are welcome.

0510 3927 927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Faifo Bar This recently renovated outdoor bar at Victoria Resort is a prime venue to unwind. With the sounds of jazz in the background, a soothing water fountain to your right and the Cua Dai ocean vista in front, this is perfection. Enjoy a refreshing drink here on one of the sofas in the shade of the palm leaf roof. There is a comprehensive beverage list and the everattentive staff will ensure you’re not in want of anything.

0510 3927 040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com Heritage Bar As Life Heritage Resort’s signature drinking venue, this sophisticated lounge offers top shelf wines, single malts, cognacs and cigars as well as a creative cocktail list. Sip and sup in opulence in the colonial inspired, air-conditioned venue, and soak up the romance and history of Hoi An. For an inspired drinks setting that is unique to Hoi An and not unlike that of the Raffle’s Hotel’s Long Bar in Singapore, we recommend putting this into your itinerary.

1 Pham Hong Thai St 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com La Plage This refreshing find on An Bang beach serves as a restaurant but also a venue for live music, movie nights, theme parties and plenty of water sports and equipment available. Ask friendly host Denis about the latest happenings, or get involved in one of their many community projects (from helping to clean garbage off the beaches, to arts classes and more).

Last on far right, An Bang / Cam An beach 0510 392 8244 sammiller99@gmail.com www.laplagehoian.com Le Funk Da Nang’s funkiest little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Join founders

110

Antoine and David for an original cocktail.

Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Already fast becoming the expat favourite after-hours drinking hole, Le Funk is stylish but not pricey.

Shots start at 15,000VND 166 Bach Dang St, Da Nang 0511 3843 291 012 1554 335

Cua Dai hotel Located on the road between the old town and the beach this resort is great value for money with a beautiful garden setting and modern amenities.

Free wireless, pool and modern design make for a convenient stay.

544 Cua Dai St - 0510 3862231 cuadaihotel-hoian.com/ $$

Soul Bar (Soul Kichen) On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy wine or cocktails from the well-stocked Soul Bar. Ian (previously from Phatties) is the main man in charge of the bar which also features a pool table and is complemented by a lawn area with hammocks, sunbeds and the odd surfboard.

Order food from the daily blackboard at Soul Kitchen, the Soul Bar is open from 10am to 10pm (latest).

Far left, An Bang/Cam An beach http://www.soulkitchen.sitew.com

Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa All of Hoi An’s charm is captured by the boutique Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa. Surrounding by lush rice fields, the resort blends architecturally with the natural surrounds. Exquisitely appointed rooms, five-star service, and an array of relaxing activities await. For a truly boutique experience this is the best in town, emphasiz¬ing the ‘experience’ of Hoi An in all its timeless elegance. Facilities include pool, beach club, spa, fine dining, badminton in a tropical landscaped garden.

175 Cua Dai Rd - 0510 3 864 800 info@hoianriverresort.com / www.hoianriverresort.com $$$-$$$$

Tam Tam Upstairs in this art-deco designed restaurant/bar is a pool table, lounge area and dancing area.

Tam Tam is always a-buzz with locals and visitors although more expats are coming here than perhaps other venues. The shooters are also unique, our favourite is the local ‘Em Oi’! which is made of Amaretto and Sambuca.

110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An (0510) 3 862 212 White Marble Wine Bar & Restaurant Hoi An’s only wine bar is superbly located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi Street. Their great wine list, including 11 by the glass, is complemented by an eclectic menu of Vietnamese and Asian favourites. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town.

98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3911 862 Email: whitemarble@visithoian.com www.visithoian.com Zeroseamile Club Hoi An’s only real nightclub, the Zeroseamile is open both day and night – ‘til the break of dawn!

A DJ station, dancefloor, pool and foosal tables feature inside. Outside there is a lush pool, plenty of lawn facing the beach with deckchairs and a BBQ grill in the evening. Beach chairs and sun beds are also available on the sand. Enjoy the facilities in the day – sports equipment such as volleyballs and net, soccer balls and other water sports equipment are available – and then party on in the night. Free return shuttle bus service from old town to the beach club at night.

Cua Dai beach 0510 3 911 911 www.zeroseamile.com

Le Belhamy This new resort is only 10 minutes from old town and set amongst 10 hectares of lush gardens on a private stretch of beach. Activities abound for beach lovers, and the resort caters easily to both families and those on a romantic getaway. The facilities are fabulous including two large swimming pools, tennis courts and gourmet dining.

Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village - 0510 394 1888 info@belhamy.com / www.belhamy.com $$$-$$$$ Life Heritage Resort This classic resort evokes the colonial splendor of a bygone era. Located on a quiet stretch of the Thu Bon river, the 94 room resort is iconic -and for good reason. Recently renovated rooms, bespoke spa treatments and unmatched restaurant and bar facilities all create an unforgettable experience. The company also owns and operates the Life Wellness Resort in Quy Nhon. Inspired by the architecture of the Kingdom of Champa, the 63¬room hideaway boutique is dedicated to the tenets of wellness, from yoga to tai chi and to an ample range of spa treatments and anti-stress and detox programs.

1 Pham Hong Thai St - 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com $$$$ Orchid Garden Homestay This pleasant homestay is set within a wonderfully landscaped garden featuring – as per the name – many orchids. An inviting pool, bungalow style rooms and welcoming atmosphere make this appealing to visitors. Guests can join in on family meals and learn about the local lifestyle from owner/manager Ms Phuong.

382 Cua Dai St - 0510 3863 720 www.hoian-homestay-orchidgarden.com $$ Nam Hai The boast of the Central Coast, this luxurious resort combines intricate designer detail with a peerless location, inimitable Vietnamese hospitality and premium facilities. Their award-winning spa in undeniably the best in the region with bespoke treatments from various parts of Asia. The pristine beach in front of the hotel is complemented by an infinity pool, lush tropical gardens and dining menus to please every palette.

(0510) 3490 000 www.ghmhotel.com $$$$$

Palm Garden Resort & Spa Bliss out in this gorgeous resort ringing by palms and coconut trees on Hoi An’s Cua Dai beach. An enormous pool complex is in the centre of the garden, while guests have prime beach access, and plenty of facilities and activities at their disposal.

The rooms are all well-appointed with first-class equipment and amenities. Other facilities such as the Palm Spa are must-experience features of this well-renowned resort.

Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vn / www.palmgardenresort.com.vn $$$-$$$$ Phu Thinh II This charming hotel truly encapsulates the vibe of Hoi An and local hospitality. Smiles abound, the service is exceptional and the prices are very affordable. The hotel boasts a grandiose pool which gets sunlight throughout the year and there is also a stunning backyard view of the lotus lake. For a romantic sojourn in Hoi An, this hotel is a perfect choice and has a great location -close enough to the river for a breeze, only 2 km from the beach and within walking distance to old town. All the expected luxuries are available including WiFI and cable TV. 488 Cua Dai St. - 0510 3923 923 www.phuthinhhotels.com $$ The Villa @ Red Bridge Situated in the same grounds as the famous Red Bridge Cooking School and Restaurant, The Villa @ Red Bridge is designed with an Asian ambiance and consists of three master bedrooms, a living and dining area, fully-equipped kitchen, library and fitness room spread across two levels of 250m2. Guests benefit from all the facilities that Red Bridge has on offer: a private chef to cater all meals, swim¬ming pool, riverside (including boat trips), restaurant and barbecue areas. Other modern features such as WIFI, flat screen TV and DVD player are found within.

Thon 4, Cam Thanh 0510 3933 222 / 0905 452 092 info@visithoian.com $$$$ Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort This local treasure offers understated luxury mixed with nostalgic architecture and a generous helping of warm Asian hospitality. Located on the beach but facing the river delta, this is a classic hotel that promises great facilities, service and a unique experience. Their dining facilities are peerless, even for those staying outside of the hotel we recommend the restaurant for breakfast or dinner.

Also be sure to check out the hotel’s vintage motorbikes, sidecar and shuttle bus.

Cua Dai Road, Hoi An (0510) 3927040 www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$$ Vinh Hung Resort The tranquil Vinh Hung Resort provides for a luxury stay away from home. Located on the Thu Bon river near to the old town, the resort features and elegant pool, beautiful landscaped gardens, exceptional facilities, service and affordable prices.

143 Tran Phu St 0510 3910 393 or 3910577 www.vinhhungresort.com Between $$ and $$$

111

Shopping

In Perfect Form:

Papillon Noir Amy Morison

Every person’s body has a unique style; its own artistic form. When you design clothes for someone, you have to look at their entire form, says Uyen Trinh and this is the approach she uses when customizing Papillon Noir fashion designs for clients.

“I focus on a person’s shape. If I were to follow just their measurements, then existing pattern cuts would not work. The best way is to customize the design to suit their particular body form,” Uyen explains.

Uyen is somewhat of a rara avis on the Hoi An scene. She is both artist and designer; renowned for her stunning hand-painted silk designs. The female range in her Papillon Noir collections are exquisite – chic couture combines seamlessly with nature-inspired art. Her deft ability to use colours that mimic nature’s creatures, such as butterflies and dragonflies as well as various flowers like the cherry blossom or orchids, is inspiring to say the least.

As a child, Uyen was a talented painter and as she grew older she began to translate her art into clothing designs. She opened her first store in 1994 under the name Uyen Design. By 2000, she was recognized by Lonely Planet as a “funky designer” and in 2007 she launched Papillon Noir – ArtFashion, inspired by nature.

Besides her intricate paintwork and other decorative designs (native fibres such as coconut and wood sometimes feature in her work) Uyen also makes stylish menswear. Her striped shirts remind one of Thomas Pink, while her series of velvet jackets are an opulent reminder of La Decadence yet suited to the modern age. Other fibres such as linens are also popular choices with Uyen; especially when she is designing clothes for tropical wear. She is a fashion virtuoso; a refreshing and daring designer, who also understands the more practical aspects of tailoring to a person’s needs.

For truly inspired themes, high quality and perfect form-fit clothes, we recommend visiting her stores on Tran Hung Dao and Tran Phu. For those interested in taking a silk painting workshop, you are welcome to join her at her Tran Hung Dao workshop.

Papillon Noir - 0510 3917 941 Retail outlets: 30 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Tran Phu St www.papillonnoirfashion.com papillonnoirfashion@gmail.com

113

Shopping

Luminous Hoi An:

Tailoring with Taste:

Rin My Amy Morison Tran Thi Hoa has always had taste. Her history in tailoring is a family business, but unlike many of the numerous tailor shops that exist in Hoi An, she started out before Hoi An became a tourist destination. She made clothes for locals, operating from the main market. However, she always dreamed of designing for foreigners, making beautiful clothes that would be worn in other parts of the world.

Fast forward 16 years and Mrs Hoa has achieved her dream, but in a quiet, unassuming way. Her quaint shop Rin My on Phan Boi Chau street is away from the bustle of the market so she doesn’t get the walk-in traffic of tailors in the busier parts of old town. She does, however, attract a more discerning clientele, being in close proximity to the iconic Life Resort and Brother’s Café. And it is with these customers that Mrs Hoa excels.

“I am very attentive to my customers. I want them to feel comfortable and to be happy. It is very important that they feel happy when they both enter and leave the shop,” she explains. “I have many customers that return, year after year, and this makes me feel good about my work. It is not about volume, but about quality. This is what separates a good tailor from an average tailor.”

Mrs Hoa has been working with clothing suppliers since 1995 and works with a handpicked number of specialized sewers and cutters. She doesn’t cut corners on quality and charges a fair price.

“Many shops buy sub-standard materials and push their tailors to rush, so the job is not done properly. Tailored clothes should be doublestitched. If a shop is offering a cheap price that seems too good to be true, it probably is – the clothes will probably fall apart after a short time,” Mrs Hoa advises.

Rin My 15 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3863 280 0905 101 068 rinmy_07@yahoo.com www.rinmytailors.com

114

Lantern-making Amy Morison In my view, the lantern is as much a symbol of Hoi An as the Japanese bridge. These colourful, silken lamps of old give the town an enchanting feel.

At night – with the colonial buildings of Hoi An as a backdrop, it literally feels like you are stepping back into a magical past; a resplendent Oriental fairytale.

“Lanterns are originally Chinese, made from wood and wax paper. My grandparents came to Hoi An from Quang Dong province. In those days, Chinese families would paint their family name on the lanterns and hang them at the front entrance of their home,” explains Mr Duong Vinh Thoai, proprietor of the Long Vy lantern shop – Hoi An’s most established lantern store.

Mr Thoai’s shop on Phan Chu Trinh was originally the home of his grandparents’. At the back of the store you will see a pair of antiquated Chinese lanterns dangling in front of the family ancestral shrine; they are more than 100 years old.

Before the American War Mr Thoai’s father, Mr Duong Mai, was Hoi An’s lantern-making specialist. Many of the Hoi An families with Chinese heritage would request lanterns from his shop which was then called Tan Long. While the custom of making lanterns was temporarily lost during the war and the rationing period that followed, the town experienced a revival in the 1990s and especially when it became listed as a UNESCO-heritage town.

Every month for the full moon, Hoi An celebrates its lantern festival. Shop-owners and residents in the old town use lanterns for light – fluorescent light is not allowed.

Along two of the main streets in the old quarter – Tran Phu and Le Loi – lanterns are hung by the government for local and national festivals. Long Vy lanterns is commissioned to make these.

In Hoi An, the traditional lantern-making method is with a bamboo frame and silk covering. Mr Thoai says the best test on the quality of a lantern is to open and close the umbrella-like frame to see if it is symmetrical. At Long Vy they treat the bamboo carefully to prevent insect damage.

Incidentally, tourists can learn the art of lantern-making at the Long Vy workshop. Why not take a traditional self-made souvenir home!

Long Vy Lanterns & Workshop: 6 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 360 6611 / 0908 664 731 longdenlongvy@gmail.com - www.hoianlantern.com.vn

115

Shopping Fashioning the market:

Sam Miller

Yaly

It started with a simple stall in the Hoi An market. Trinh Diem Quynh and two tailoring staff. They made handknitted jackets and ao dai tunics for Vietnamese customers. Today, Quynh is head of Yaly –Hoi An’s most established tailor brand.

Like many young people in Hoi An, Quynh grew up working in her family’s business near the central market. At an early age Quynh learned to appreciate colours and art through her father and his family, who were painters. She also developed a liking for travel and education; her father encouraged her to keep and open mind and to learn new things.

Bringing her love of fashion and business together she started a small market business in the early 1990s. At this time Hoi An had begun to cause a stir among travellers and more people began visiting the heritage town. Noticing this trend, Quynh began fashioning designs that would be appealing to tourist’s tastes and preferences.

As business in the market picked up with foreign customers, she decided to open her first shop on Nguyen Thai Hoc St and launched the brand ‘Yaly’. The Yaly name comes from a Vietnamese ethnic minority group and means waterfall and beautiful girl. Meanwhile, the Yaly logo hints at a girl’s ao dai blowing in the wind.

116

Quynh wears many hats at Yaly. As chief designer, she contiunes to express her talent for art and fashion through Yaly’s ready-made collection.

As the head of the business, she has a quality focussed organization with people at the centre. For Quynh, staff at Yaly are seen as an extended family . Her fair treatment and quality-focussed work ethic has inspired great loyalty among the staff with most employees having worked with her for at least 5 years. Her original tailoring staff still work with her today; both are in high managerial positions.

Besides investing in her own people, Yaly has invested in modern equipment to ensure customers get the best of both worlds – world-class quality with personalized style. As the world grows more crowded with mass produced clothes Quynh is confident Yaly will remain a favourite stop for customers interested in unique, personalized fashion without compromising on quality.

Yaly 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St (0510) 3910474 / 386 1119 / 3914 995 www.yalycouture.com quynh@yalycouture.com

117

Shopping

Papaya t-shirts:

Designed to give back Amy Morison

Papaya also donate 1% profit from their total earnings to the charity “Pouissieres de Vietnam” which helps street children in HCMC. They support a local organization “La Goutte d’o”, too which aids underprivileged families in the Hoi An area. In fact, it was Thierry’s idea to incorporate the use of special recycled bags to give to Papaya customers. Poverty-stricken families in Hoi An collect newspapers and make them into carry bags – usually with a prominent advert in Vietnamese which give the bags a uniquely local look. Papaya buys these bags and gives them to customers rather than using plastic bags. This not only gives back to the community but gives customers an additional souvenir.

“We’ve had a lot of positive feedback about these recycled bags. Our customers really like them. Actually we had a couple in Paris who liked them so much they wanted to bulk buy to use in their retail shop in France. They bought 700 bags, which really improved the income of the family who made them,” explained David. “But while we are involved in purchasing the bags and supporting the product, we have given the responsibility of marketing and financial organization to ‘La goutte d’o’. This will ensure that families who really need the income are making the bags and earning the profit.”

To see more Papaya designs go to their website www.papaya-tshirt.com or drop into one of their Hoi An locations (37 & 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc St).

The original designs of Papaya T-shirts have become almost ubiquitous in Vietnam. The iPho shirt – a cute Vietnamese spin on iPhone – is iconic, as is Bia Hoi (think global, drink local) and Saigon Online (a chaotic image of wires on a Vietnamese telegraph pole). While their designs are often copied, they are never surpassed in quality. You can tell an original papaya t-shirt by its distinctive label –as they say, “not same same, really better”.

This small but growing company opened its first store in Hoi An almost 2 years ago and now has two locations in town and a total of five in the country. Their 100% cotton t-shirts all have original designs which are often cheeky and always unique to Vietnam.

Importantly, when you buy from Papaya, you also help give back to the community.

Founders David Griffon and Thierry Palasse practice the principles of fair trade – so all Papaya employees earn a living wage, not a minimum wage, meaning all staff earn enough to provide properly for their families whilst keeping regular, reasonable working hours.

118

Both women have developed longlasting and harmonious relationships with their tailors and other local crafts people. They commission work from about 14 people outside of their shop.

The sense of the local community ranks high in both Aldegonde and Anna’s decision to live and work in Hoi An and Hoi An only.

“We work with talented locals; a doctor who hand knits complicated pullovers for us in her free time , a man – after a year training – who makes some of our leather handbags. And we have a number of freelance sewers. While we give them a design concept, we also give them creative room, so there is a constant exchange of ideas. It’s a very nice process,” Aldegonde explains.

MATERIAL GIRLS:

Designing

avAna

While avAna don’t do ‘collections’ per se, they do have themes. The current feel for summer has been vaguely inspired by Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Vivienne Westwood and Haider Ackerman. But the common thread in their new designs is the avAna pants – which come in the style of Aladdin, Zouave or Afghani trousers. The pants are designed for the heat, with stretchy, soft fabric.

Their cut is distinguished by a wide waist and loop of material that gathers around the knees and ends in the ankles. This style reinforces an Asiatic aesthetic; lightweight and natural, and using soft summery colour tones such as lilac-violet and brown-hued pink. Anna and Aldegonde suggest wearing them with Oriental sandals, a short top or small jacket.

Amy Morison

Between the seams is a sense of magic. A sense of the Orient lyrical.

But most importantly, all of the outfits designed by duo Aldegonde Van Alsenoy and Anna Van Ravesteyn feel beautiful. For their world, is a material one.

“Choosing the right material for all our clothes is most important. The pieces have to feel comfortable. They have to be high in quality. The material is what we base our silhouettes on,” explains Aldegonde.

More than a year ago, the two women started their clothing brand avAna in Hoi An – avAna being a catchy anagram of their initials – today, the brand has become a recognized and recommended source of wearable art, unique to the heritage town. Their designs are original and chic, always with an emphasis on comfort, particularly for tropical climates.

For both Anna and Aldegonde, environment is key. Both have backgrounds in fashion and design. Aldegonde founded the ‘Betet Skara’ brand in Antwerp, which turned traditional hand-woven clothes into fashionwear.

Anna worked for Vogue in Australia for 10 years. Both women, however, feel most centred in Hoi An. And it’s not just because their husbands are here too!

“Hoi An has a good energy. There is a quiet sense of the creative all around; you feel naturally inspired. There are also that nice contrast of the traditional and the new. It is a town that is evolving, with many artistic personalities. For Aldegonde and I, this is the core of our creative work.

Everyday we feel blessed to live and work in Hoi An,” says Anna.

126

Accessories such as handbags with tassels and silk scarves further enhance the look. “Think Arabian tales, light silk fabric with dazzling graphics, warm nights and tropical plants – all of these images in a tangle of imitations and stylistic borrowings. This is summer avAna,” says Aldegonde. avAna - 57 Le Loi St 0510 3 911 611 info@hoiandesign.com www.hoiandesign.com

127

LISTING

Shopping SONG All original designs are by Valerie Gregori Mackenzie, a famous French designer who resides in Vietnam and set up the SONG brand in 1996. Expect exquisite designs on beautiful fabrics. Made from organic materials and embroidered by local artisans, all SONG products are environmentally sustainable. They have also featured in high end boutiques all over the world, including Sak’s.

76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, info@asiasongdesign.com www.asiasongdesign.com

Arts & Crafts Long Vy Lanterns & Workshop Hoi An’s most established lantern-makers, Long Vy cater for both personal and corporate shoppers. Many of the resorts of the central coast buy their lanterns from Long Vy, as well as customers abroad. They have custom-made lantern designs for operas, Asian-inspired events and more. All lanterns are made to the highest quality and can easily be shipped abroad. Personal shoppers interesting in learning the art of lantern-making can also take one of their workshops.

6 Phan Chau Trinh St 0510 360 6611 0908 664 731 longdenlongvy@gmail.com www.hoianlantern.com.vn Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & Workshop Beautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of the various and unique items on sale here. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. All items are handmade – mostly in the workshop on site – and have fixed prices.

You are welcome to check out the workshop at the back; all the artists are happy to show you how they craft their work.

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 168 info@reachingoutvietnam.com www.reachingoutvietnam.com

Fashion Avana A unique boutique which sells original accessories, clothes, shoes, interior wares and children’s wear by expat duo Anna and Ava. Importantly, the pair draw on local materials for their inspiration and work with Hoi An craftspeople to make their designs. Their motto: passion, people, quality. If you want to support local artisans and see some inspiring tropical chic designs, be sure to check out their shop.

128

57 Le Loi St info@hoian-design.com www.hoian-design.co

but customize everything to the client’s request.

275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3914 373

Hot Chili Hot chili haven’t yet opened their own retail outlet but if you’re staying in one of Hoi An’s luxury resorts, you’ll be familiar with the brand. Groovy designs on comfortable, high quality cotton fabrics are the cornerstone of this unique brand set up by Australian couple John and Jenny. Check out other designs or custom-make your own casual wear through their screen printing company Sao Viet. http://www.vietnamtshirtprinter.com

Shoe Shop 09 Expect great quality custom-made shoes from this long-time family shoemaking business. They have readymade designs or can tailor to your own specific designs. All 100% leather, quality made soles. Ms Tuong and her team actually specialize in leather products too, so besides shoes you can find a fantastic range of handbags, purses and stylish leather jackets.

65 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 386 3573 tuong2002@hotmail.com

Rin My This family business of 16 years is run by the wonderfully friendly Mrs Hoa. Her exceptional taste and commitment to high quality will ensure a good experience. Almost all Mrs Hoa s customers return! Located on the quaint Phan Boi Chau street between Life Resort and Brothers Café this charming tailor shop is well-worth a visit.

15 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3863 280 0905 101 068 rinmy_07@yahoo.com www.rinmytailors.com

Tong Art Shoes Find exceptional shoes at Anna Moi’s shoe gallery in Hoi An. Pure leather, comfortable yet chic shoes feature in this trendy new addition to Hoi An. Anna’s signature ‘thong boot’ is a must-try item, combining a flip flop and knee boot together. She has plenty of artful designs to get soleful about, but there are also shoes for men.

All soles are handcrafted with the best materials and Anna only uses 100% leather – guaranteed.

26 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 391 5202 tonghoian@gmail.com

Sun Cloth Shop This highly esteemed, family-run business near the Life Resort has a well-deserved reputation for high quality service and products. Their customers are almost always international, with many returning year after year for repeat orders.

The Sun name is synonymous with quality and fair pricing. It is one of Live Hoi An’s choice tailors.

273 Nguyen Duy Hieu 0510 386 1449 0983 520 560 sunsilkhoian@gmail.com www.sunsilkhoian.com

Tailors

Yaly Couture Yaly Couture is renowned for making highly exquisite, fashionable clothes, made to measure.

One of the few tailors who have exhibited their craftsmanship on the catwalk, you can be guaranteed luxurious and quality products from this company. Yaly are famous in Vietnam and with good reason – high quality materials, craftsmanship and service are exceptional.

47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St (0510) 3910474 / 386 1119 / 3914 995 www.yalycouture.com quynh@yalycouture.com

Papaya T-Shirts Funky t-shirt designs on 100% cotton! The original and best t-shirts in Vietnam. Buy from here and profits help street children in HCMC and underprivileged families in Hoi An. The shirts are high in quality and make for great gifts.

37 & 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc St www.papaya-tshirt.com

Papillon Noir Exquisite collections by artist Uyen Trinh, who specializes in silk painting. The closest Hoi An has seen of haute couture, Uyen’s unique designs are making waves across the region.

Her passion for silk painting has led her on a personal journey to learn more about the art and also to teach and inspire others. She holds weekly classes at her boutique – call the shop if you’re interested.

30 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Tran Phu St

Jewellery Lotus Jewellery Beautiful handmade jewellery of silver and various local materials including beautiful stones sourced from abroad. Every design in this shop is original and there are some excellent locally-inspired pieces which make for great keepsakes to take home. Only pure silver and high quality items are sold here and prices are reasonable and fixed.

82 Tran Phu St 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Ph: +84 (0) 510 3911 664 http://www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com/

Shoes First Shoe Shop One of Hoi An’s original shoemakers, the First Shoe Shop have one of the best reputations in town. Good quality leather and European shoemaking techniques are employed. They have a decent range of readymade footwear

Dung Tailor Dung Tailor was one of the first tailors in Hoi An, having opened this family store in 1994 to serve foreign tourists. Unlike other outlets, all the tailoring is done within the shop. Locally-based, foreign-owned boutiques also request Mr Dung and family to tailor their designs, so customers can be reassured of this family business’ good reputation. Their friendliness and honesty provide more reason to choose this tailor over the myriad of other outlets in Hoi An. 23 Le Loi St 0510 386 3865 0905 945 956 duyen_dung38@yahoo.com

Healthier … by nature Hoi An’s essential day spa experience

• Exclusively use of spa products by Azial and Rendez-vous – 100% natural and organic ingredients • Services include massage, body scrubs and wraps, manicures, pedicures, waxing and facials • All therapists are trained and certified • Private showering and changing facilities with robes, towels, slippers and lockers provided • Complimentary mineral water, tea, steam and sauna facilities • O.P.I international nail products used for manicures and pedicures • International day spa standard facility with 75 minute massage treatments averaging $20

Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu Street - Tel: 0510 3 933 999

Email: palmarosaspa@yahoo.com - Website: www.palmarosaspa.com

Health and Wellness

LISTING The next most important aspect of the Palmarosa experience is the professionalism of the staff and their quality products. All beauty and massage therapists are trained and have technician licenses. According to spa founder and director, Ms Quyen, the masseurs must complete an intensive 4 month training course before starting at Palmarosa, regardless of previous experience. This ensures that the standard among therapists is the same and that their products are used effectively.

Spa Out! The essential Palmarosa experience Amy Morison The term ‘spa’ has been used far too generally in Hoi An. Any place with a few mirrors, a basic manicure kit and a room out the back with a mattress for massage has been calling themselves a ‘spa’. By my definition, however, a spa facility should – at minimum – include a comfortable changing and shower area, clean robes and slippers and private treatment rooms with professional massage tables and spa-specialty products. Finally, my wish for an independent spa facility that meets my criteria was granted when Palmarosa opened.

Saunter into the foyer of Palmarosa and a sense of zen descends upon you.

The fragrance of lemongrass permeates the air. Relaxing background music and modern, comfortable furnishings reinforce a mood of relaxation. Not dissimilar to that of a high-end resort spa lobby, you feel immediately at ease.

What’s impressive is that the facilities and treatments at Palmarosa are nowhere near resort prices – they are similar to other small spas in Hoi An, yet their professionalism exceeds all other independent venues. Firstly, the atmosphere and facilities have been designed to an international day spa standard. Male and female changing rooms not only include showers but have a steam room and sauna. Each guest – regardless of their treatment – will receive a locker space with key, towel, robe and slippers. They can use the additional facilities of the steam room and sauna at their leisure. They are also given complimentary mineral water, ginger tea and a foot soak before commencing a treatment.

132

Palmarosa uses the esteemed Azial and Rendez-vous product range – 100% natural products that combine Asian natural resources with European manufacturing knowledge. Founded by French specialists, the company operates from Vietnam and provides products and training to several day spas and resorts in both Vietnam and abroad. Palmarosa exclusively uses Azial for their spa treatments; namely the moisturizing body oils for massage and their scrubs and lotions. The botantic-based ingredients are all 100% organic (ie, chemical-free) and employ locallysourced components such as lime, mint, orange, pomelo, cinnamon, lemongrass, sandalwood, ginger and the lesser-known but nonetheless essential Palmarosa oil – otherwise called East Indian geranium.

So how much does it cost for a Palmarosa experience? Their standard massage treatments (such as Asian blend, Traditional European and Swedish) are 75 minutes and cost $18, while specialty massage treatments including the Thai Herbal Hot Poultice (the masseur uses a steamed herbal ball) and Basalt Hot Stone Massage (hot stones are placed on pressure points) are $21 and $25 respectively. Body scrubs and wraps range from $15 to $18 and facials start at $9 for a 30 minute green tea or raspberry yoghurt mud mask. For those wanting a manicure or pedicure, treatments start at $5 and use international nail polish brand O.P.I. As mentioned earlier, customers can use the additional spa facilities (steam room and sauna) complimentary.

Palmarosa is open daily from 10am to 10pm – bookings are recommended.

Palmarosa Spa: 90 Ba Trieu St - 0510 3 933 999 palmarosaspa@ yahoo.com - www. palmarosaspa.com

133

Health and Wellness Medical Family Medical Practice Da Nang For anything serious or if you want a general check-up in an international standard clinic, this is the most renowned medical facility in the Central Coast region. The clinic is managed by Dr Ross Bernays, a native Australian GP with many years experience in Vietnam. Family Medical Practice offers 24 hour emergency care as well as emergency evacuation. They are also are aligned with numerous international health insurance providers and provide direct billing to customers.

50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Tel: (0511) 3582-699/700 Emergency: 09 13 917 303 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Pacific Hospital A private facility with 24 hour emergency care and international equipment. They do provide direct billing with certain health providers, have English-speaking doctors and can arrange hotel visits and pick-ups. However, we recommend Family Medical for major emergencies such as trauma.

06 Phan Dinh Phung St Tel: 0510 921 398

Spa Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Nicely fitted spa in a good location. Excellent treatments at a reasonable cost. Highly recommended are the body massage, including the aromatherapy healing popular ‘Imperial Jade’ treatment which includes hot stone therapy.

Moreover, the ‘Together Forever’ package is a refreshing treatment that has a reviving effect on the skin. It involves a pomelo and lemongrass bath and steam, massage with local herbs and a collagen facial treatment.

49 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An (0510) 3 917 972 alyspahoian@yahoo.com Countryside Charm Massage A favourite with locals and expats, Ms Vinh is an experienced masseur, with over 6 years experience at the Victoria Hotel’s Tamarind Spa as a senior spa therapist. She has a comprehensive spa menu with hot stone therapies, body scrubs and various massage techniques available. Her reasonable costs, charming smile and friendly nature make this spa all the more appealing.

Discounts apply to any guest that mentions the magazine. Professional hourly body massages start at $12.

512 Cua Dai St 0510 3501 584 0979 497 454 duyenquehoian@gmail.com Life Spa Life Resort’s well-deserved reputation as a health and wellness sanctuary could not be better encapsulated than in their Hoi An spa.

All staff are trained in Thailand and understand numerous techniques. Their signature ‘Harmony of Energy Massage’ uses seven kinds of massage techniques. Massages are world class and start at $43.

134

LISTING 1 Pham Hong Thai 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com Palmarosa Spa Hoi An’s first legitimate day spa. Palmarosa offers professional, modern facilities and services at very reasonable prices. They use the esteemed Azial, Rendez-vous and O.P.I brands for the spa and beauty products. They also have proper shower/changing rooms with complimentary locker, towel, robe and steam and sauna facilities.

The atmosphere is one of a resort day spa yet the prices are similar to those of a small independent spa. Massage treatments of 75 minutes average at $18.

90 Ba Trieu 0510 3 933 999 www.palmarosaspa.com Palm Spa & Salon The Palm Garden resort is already a tropical haven on the beach where one immediately falls into a relaxed state. Their spa facility will take you to an even more zen-like journey and each treatment includes full use of a sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. Well-trained masseurs (previously trained under Shiseido’s Qi brand) ensure international excellence and facials, scrubs, massages and salon services are all reasonably priced.

Lac Long Quan Street, Cua Dai Beach Tel: (84.510) 3.927.927 info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresor.com.vn Senses Spa The Riverside Resort & Spa’s facility is nestled within the peaceful grounds of their village style complex. Their Oriental massage combines Balinese, Thai and Vietnamese techniques and comes highly recommended. For those who want to bliss out and enjoy the other fine facilities that this resort sanctuary has to offer on the river, we suggest you try the Senses Spa. 175 Cua Dai 0510 3864 800 www.hoianriverresort.com info@hoianriverresort.com Tamarind Spa The Tamarind Spa is rated highly in Hoi An, if not all of Vietnam. They offer a plethora of spa and massages treatments such as aromatherapy, Thai, Swedish, Hot Stone, Indian, traditional (plus more treatments), among other salon service. For peerless service, treatment and an unmatched ambience, its worth splashing out and treating yourself to an experience here.

Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An (0510) 392 7040 http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com Tuan Boy Hair Salon Tuan has cut hair all over Asia and won awards for his expert hair colouring. He has styled the hair of the Miss Universe candidates, cut the Queen of Austria’s hair and been the expert consultant for various actors filming in the heritage town of Hoi An. He is Tony & Guy certified, uses only international products and prices are fixed and reasonable.

148 Nguyen Truong To St 0905 960 365 / 0905 381 597

> Marble Mountains > Cham Islands

These exquisitely preserved islands comprise of eight islets altogether and offler the best diving in Vietnam. Brimming with marine life and corals from 5m to 30m below the water, these islands could be described as a diver’s paradise. The main Cham Island has a small, friendly community and harbours some beautiful beaches and jungle.

The best option for diving, snorkeling or sailing tours out to the island would be to organize through the Cham Island Diving Center (www. chamislanddiving.com).

The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five distinc-tive hills famous for their limestone and marble contents. Considered a holy site for Buddhists, the pagodas, shrines and cave grottos within the mountains are unique and beautiful.

However, the mountains have become quite ‘touristy’ over recent years and it is best to visit ei-ther early morning or late afternoon else the normally serene space is not exactly peaceful at all. You can buy a map at the ticket gate which explains where to find certain attractions within the mountains and you’ll be surprised how much there is to explore.

> Bach Ma National Park Not unlike Ba Na hill, Bach Ma National Park was a favourite residential area among the foreign elite during the French occupation. Today this sprawling 22,031 hectare national preserve harbours some of Vietnam’s most unique wildlife – efflorts to regenerate areas cleared by either settlement or war have been very successful. In fact, species that were thought extinct have reemerged in this wonderful forest sanctuary, including the Argus and Edwards’ pheasants. For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bach Ma will provide the ideal adventure, and is a mere 3 hours from Danang.

Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain. and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain.

136

> My Son

Regarded as Vietnam’s most significant archaeologi-cal site, My Son is a must-see sanctuary for any visitor exploring Central Vietnam. The temple remnants once served as the country’s chief place of worship during the Champa Kingdom which peaked in Vietnam over 500 years ago.

Visitors will see architec-tural influences from Cambodia, China and India in the unique stone vestiges. Plenty of tour operators have buses to My Son which last for a half day and cost around US$14. Ask your hotel for details or con-sult our listings (pp . Alternatively, hire a motorbike taxi to escort you – if you leave early you will miss the main throng of tourists and can stop and start as you please along the way. The journey itself is wonderfully picturesque.

> Hue Once Vietnam’s capital, the imperial city still exudes a regal per-sonality that is unmatched throughout the country. For avid historians this is a must visit town – especially the Citadel, home to the forbid-den city where only emperor’s and those closest to them were allowed within its walls. Hue also boasts some of the country’s finest cuisine, having been a city that was home to the royal family the best chefs in Vietnam were handpicked by emperors to concoct special recipes. Of course commoners were banned from eating such cuisine but these days visitors can feast in a truly royal fashion during their stay.

137

Da Nang is Vietnam’s third largest city and has seen a vast increase in busi-ness development and tourism over the last few years. The coastal area of Da Nang – namely My Khe beach – was a famous rest and recreation point for US marines during the war.

Today the beaches are still clean and expansive, stretching all the way to Hoi An. But Da Nang has many other attractions worth visiting too.

During the rainy season Da Nang has plenty of indoor options including international standard shopping malls, restaurants and plenty of entertain-ment. Literally at the centre of Vietnam, it is a city where the cosmopolitan and the cultural combine.

• Cham Museum: On the corner of Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang streets, this museum harbours the oldest relics of the Cham era in Vietnam. If you go to My Son, you should complement your trip with a visit to this museum which has some impressive sandstone sculptures of ancient Hindu icons.

Getting to Da Nang: Taxis can be pricey if you re going to Da Nang, generally hovering around the 350,000 VND mark (close to US$20) one way. If you want a private car, it will be cheaper and we recommend Ms Dung travel service – 09 1342 7080 – who starts at 180,000 VND for one way. If you want to stay in town for a couple of hours than you can negotiate a return price. Alternatively, there is the yellow bus which leaves from Nguyen Tat Thanh St (see our Hoi An city map) which should cost no more than 15,000 VND one way. It stops in various places in Da Nang.

Dining: Apsara Restaurant: This gourmet Vietnamese restaurant is a favourite among locals and boasts an exceptional number of fine Vietnamese dishes. Expect to pay a little more than average, but the experience is worth it, particularly the seafood dishes. 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang. (0511) 3561 409, http://www.aspara-danang.com.

Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant: This is a great little place with a limited menu but the dishes are fantastic. Au Lac boasts cheap prices, friendly service and a very clean restaurant. 162 Nguyen Du. Beach front Restaurants: There are six upmarket seafood restaurants located right on the sand with great views and fresh seafood. The prices are little high but the setting is worth it, visit at sunset for the best views Turn right at the end of Pham Van Dong Street.

Cool Spot Restaurant & Bar: More of restaurant than a bar this place has a large selection of good Western food as well as a range of Japanese dishes. It is a long running place and has a regular crowd of expats. 10am -10pm. 112 Tran Phu. 138

VN Release

TITLE

GENRE

22 22-Apr 22-Apr 29-Apr 6-May 6-May 6-May 13-May 13-May 13-May 20-May 20-May 27-May 27-May 1-Jun 10-Jun 24-Jun 1-Jul 15-Jul 15-Jul 29-Jul

AprSAIGON YO! Big MOMMAS: Like Father Like Son Lenh Xoa So THOR (3D Fast & Furious 5 (fast five) A chinese Ghost Story Limitless Beastly PAUL What Women want Le Petit Nicolas Pirates Of Caribbean: On stranger Tides (3D) Detective K: Secret of Virtuous Widow The Lost Blademan Kung Fu Panda2 (3D) Super 8 X-men: FIRST CLASS TRANFORMRER 3 (3D) CAR 2(3D) BRIDESMAIDS CAPTAIN AMERICA: THE FIRST AVENGER 3D

Dra/Mus Comedy Action )Act/Adv Act/Thr Fan/Rom Act/Sci Romance Com/Sci Com/Rom Comedy Adv/com Act/Dra Ani/Com Adv Act/Sci Action Ani/Fam Comedy Act/Adv

Le Bambino: Unmatched French fare and other international dishes fea-ture on the menu of this quaint restaurant. The filet mignon, BBQ and pasta dishes are all exceptional, as well as the wine list. Owned and managed by a French-Vietnamese couple. 112/11 Quang Trung, Da Nang. (0511) 3896 386. www.lebambino.com.

Mumtaz Indian Restaurant: A relatively new restaurant which already has a good reputation for excellent food and service. There is a large range of Northern and Southern Indian dishes. Mumtaz will deliver in Danang and for a minimum order of 200,000VND will even deliver to Hoi An. 231 Tran Phu. Phi Lu Chinese Restaurant: A large long established restaurant with a reputation for good food and great service. The menu is huge with a focus on Chinese and Vietnamese dishes all of which are well priced.

A popular spot for a lunch time serving of Chicken Rice. 225 Nguyen Chi Thanh.

Pizza Plus / Bread of Life: This fantastic place has an excellent selection of pizzas, pastas and burgers and they also bake their own bread, special orders welcome. Most of the staff are deaf, proceeds go towards training the deaf in Danang and surrounding provinces. 12 Le Hong Phong, 0511 3565 185, open Mon – Sat, 6am -10pm.

Vietnamese Home Restaurant: This ia large mostly outdoor place with some interesting decoration. The menu is extensive and the dishes are well done, a good selection Northern Vietnamese cuisine with very reason-able prices. 34 Bach Dang.

139

Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu.

The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang 0511 384 337, open everyday from 11am to midnight.

Bars: Bamboo2 Bar: This is Danang’s most popular expat hangout due to good music, relaxed atmosphere and great location across from the river. Prices are reasonable and decent food is served. 5pm till late.

230 Bach Dang.

Tulip Czech Beer: A large European style beer hall serving great dark and light beer brewed on site. Also has an extensive variety of food cooked very well. A very lively atmosphere and gets quite busy most nights. 11am – 11pm. 174 September 2nd (2/9) Street.

Tam’s Pub & Surf Shop: Tam’s is a small place owned and run by Tam, one of Danang’s premier tour guides and a great host. Cheap beer and simple food. Best place to come for up to date surf reports. 43 Ho Xuan Huong.

Entertainment: Bowling: A great indoor sport during wet season, this bowling alley is also cheap! If you play between the hours of 9-5pm than you can get 20 balls (the equivalent of one game) for only 20,000 VND (just over $1) and shoe hire is 5,000 VND. After 5pm it’s 25,000 VND per game.

4th Floor, Bai Tho Plaza, 46 Dien Bien Phu St, 0511 3647 050.

Megastar Cineplex: Da Nang’s best selection of current movies that are not dubbed in Vietnamese! (see our cinema listings on page 62).

Level 4, Vinh Trung Plaza, 255-257 Hung Vuong St 0511- 3.666. 222 www.megastar-media.net.

Nightclubs: Le Funk: Da Nang’s funkiest little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Join founders Antoine and David for an original cocktail. Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Already fast becoming the expat favourite afterhours drinking hole, Le Funk is stylish but not pricey. Shots start at 15,000VND. 166 Bach Dang St, 0511 3843 291, 012 1554 335.

New Phuong Dong: Danang’s biggest and best(?) nightclub has a reputa-tion for extremely loud music. This a popular spot for expats 140

looking to let their hair down, have a dance and to people watch. Can be quite expen-sive and may even be expensive to some sensitive readers. 20 Dong Da. Seventeen Saloon: A large saloon style place has live music every night, a dance floor, and regular special events. It is an interesting mix of bar and nightclub and is becoming quite popular among locals and foreigners. Z76 Tran Hung Dao. Shopping: Indochina Riverside Towers: Is home to residences, offices and a western style shopping mall. There are some very upmarket retail outlets alongside two stylish cafes; Highlands and Segafredo. If you are sick of bargaining for fake goods, come here for fixed prices on genuine name brands. 74 Bach Dang.

Big C Supermarket: A Korean run 4 storey shopping complex with a supermarket, small retail shops, Highlands cafe as well as Lotteria and KFC restaurants. Megastar Cinema is located on the 4th floor. Corner of Hung Vuong and Ong Ich Khiem.

Metro Cash and Carry: A huge western style megamart has a huge selec-tion of western and local products. Here is your best bet for finding food from back home and is probably the best place in town to buy groceries. A passport or business licence is required to shop here. Cach Mang Thang Tam. Han Market: Located right in the centre of Danang this is a typical Viet-namese market with a lively fresh produce section as well areas for clothes and household items. Come in the early morning for fresh seafood on the Bach Dang side of the market and remember to bargain hard. Bach Dang, Hung Vuong and Tran Phu. Sport: Football: A small group of Danang expats get together for a friendly football(soccer) match every Sunday from 6.20pm to 7.30pm. The price depends on the number of players, usually less than 30,000 VND for each player. Tuyen Son Sports Center, turn left at the end of 2/9 street.

Surfing: From October to February the stretch of coast between Danang and Hoi An is a great place to get some waves. Despite Vietnam’s tropical climate, at this time of year a wetsuit is advisable.

Boards are available to rent from Hoa’s Place and Tam’s Pub. China Beach, Non Nuoc.

Tennis: As with most Vietnamese cities Danang has a large number of cheap tennis courts available to rent. Expect to pay between 30,000 and 60,000 VND per hour. 5am – 8am and 5pm – 9pm are peak times.

Corner Bach Dang and Quang Trung.

Yoga Club: This western style place has clean and comfortable facilities with friendly and experienced instructors. Classes run throughout the day, prices range from 20,000 to 30,000 VND per lesson each lesson is 90 minutes. 6th Floor, 76-78 Bach Dang.

141

Index Activities

(Including Adventure Tours, Cooking Class, Diving and Travel Agencies)

Adventure Tours Agri-Travel Country Experience Tour Anh Cuoc Bike Tour Hoi An Motorbike Adventures

Hoi An Photo Tour Heaven & Earth Bicycle Tour

Jack Tran’s Hoi An Eco Tour Glass Jeep Tours Karma Jetski Vintage URAL Motorbike Sidecar Tours

221 Cua Dai Rd 635 Hai Ba Trung St 54A Phan Chau Trinh St

36 Nguyen Cong Tru St 57 Ngo Quyen St

0510 3928 900 38 An Thuong 5, Da Nang 47 Cua Dai Rd Victoria Resort, Cua Dai Beach

05103939888 0932534192 0510 3911930 0918 230 653 0905671898 05103864362 01268422260 0914 082 850 0905406905 05103927632 0510 3927 040

Cooking Class / Tasting Tour Banana Leaf Family Restaurant (The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Tour) Hai Café Morning Glory Red Bridge Sakura

67 Le Loi St

0510 386 1346

108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cam Thanh, Hamlet 4 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc

0905 382 783 0510 3862210 0510 2241 555 0510 3933222 0510 3910 369

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 627 9297 0510 3910 782 0510 3910 782

73 Tran Hung Dao St 542 Cua Dai St 10 Tran Hung Dao St 85 Tran Cao Van St 617 Hai Ba Trung St 32 Tran Hung Dao St 32 Le Loi St 77 Ba Trieu St 68 Tran Hung Dao St Tan My, Cam An Ward 111 Ba Trieu St 587 Hai Ba Trung St 19 Tran Hung Dao St 50 Tran Hung Dao St

0510 3864 609 0510 3914 243 0510 3910911 0510 3916 763 0510 386 2333

0510 3916218 0510 3917666 0510 3862 911 0510 3864113 0510 3917 567 0510 3863 948 0510 3864 864 0510 2211 974

Diving Blue Coral Diving Center Cham Island Diving Center Vietnam Sailing

Banana Split Restaurant Before and Now Blue Dragon Restaurant Bo Bo Restaurant Bread of Life Brother’s Café Can Café Café Des Amis Café 43 Café 96 Cargo Club Casa Verde Cat Bien Restaurant Cat Tien Sa Floating Boat Restaurant Cat Tien Museum Restaurant Cava Brasserie Cham Island Dive Café Champa Restaurant ,Le Belhamy Citronella Café Coco Café Cordon Bleu Restaurant Dac San Hoi An Restaurant Dao Tien Café Day & Night Café

53 Hoang Dieu St 51 Le Loi Street 46 Bach Dang St 18 Le Loi St 12 Le Hong Phong St, Da Nang 27-29 Phan Boi Chau St 74 Bach Dang St 52 Bach Dang St 43 Tran Cao Van St 96 Bach Dang St. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 99 Back Dang St Bai Ong Village,Cham Island 252 Bach Dang St,Da Nang Lot 6-7 Xuan Thieu Villa, Da Nang 53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Hamlet 1,Dien Duong ,Dien Ban Dist 05 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Cua Dai Rd 38 Bach Dang St 89 Tran Phu St 21 Phan Boi Chau St 42 Tran Cao Van St

0510 3861 136 0510 3910 599 0510 3910 742 0510 3861 939 05113 3565 185 0510 391 4150 0510 386 1525 0510 3861 616 0510 3862 587 0510 3910 441 0510 3910 489 0510 3911 594 0510 3864 563

0511 394 5519 0510 391 1646 0918 25 5521 0510 394 1888 0510 2241 491 0510 392 3320 0510 3863 439 0510 3861 533 0510 3914 996 0510 3916 760

Travel Agencies Hanh Café Hoi An Buffalo Travel Agency Hoi An Travel Hoi An Windows Tour Impression Travel Le Nguyen Travel

Ly’s Travel Mr Hung Travel Mr Dung Travel Rose Travel Service Sinh Café Tour Service Son My Son Tour TM Brother & Camel Travel

Dining Al Fresco Restaurant Art Rest Café Apsara Restaurant Aroy-D Thai Restaurant Bale Well Banana Leaf Restaurant

142

(Including both Bars and Restaurants) 83 Tran Hung Dao St 135 Tran Phu St 222 Tran Phu St,Da Nang 599 Hai Ba Trung St Track 45-51 Tran Hung Dao St 67 Le Loi St

0510 3929 707 0510 3911 925 0511 3561 409 0510 391 9995 0510 3864 443 0510 386 1346

club Located on Cua Dai beach, Zeroseamile is open both day and night. Spend the day in the sun; taking advantage of the facilities. At night, party until dawn in Hoi An’s only proper nightclub!

Complimentary beach chairs, sports equipment and pool Restaurant and bar facilities, with nighttime BBQ Free pool table, foosal and nightly DJ Free shuttle service from old town to nightclub Check our local promotions section for details on happy hours and theme nights.

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach (0510) 3 911 911 / 3 911 912 sales@zeroseamile.com www.zeroseamile.com

Index Dingo Deli Café Dong Thuan Bakery Du Port Restaurant Eden Hoi An Café Faifoo Restaurant Festival Night Café Fullmoon Towns Gia Đinh Restaurant Café Gidino Café Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant Green Chili Café Green Moss Restaurant Hai Café Heaven Garden Restaurant Hoi An Restaurant Hoi An Garden Restaurant Hoi An Hai San Restaurant Hong Phuc II Café Java Minute Café Khanh Hoa II Restaurant Kim Nhung Café La Me Café La Plage Restaurant Laugh Café L’Annam ,Victoria Resort Le Ba Truyen II Restaurant Luong Gia Restaurant Mango Mango Mango Rooms Mermaid Restaurant Miss Ly Café Moon Restaurant Morning Glory Restaurant Morning Star Restaurant Nam Long Restaurant Ngoc Tuyet Restaurant U Hai Café Quang Thang Restaurant Red Bridge Restaurant River Lounge Restaurant Sakura Restaurant Samurai Secret Garden Restaurant Song Do Restaurant Soul Kitchen Restaurant Streets International Café Sun Shine Café Tam Tam Café

Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort Thanh Restaurant Thanh Hien Restaurant

144

229 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An 409 Cua Dai St 70 Bach Dang St 53 Ba Trieu St 104 Tran Phu St 11 Pham Hong Thai St 101 Cua Dai Rd 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 113 Ba Trieu St 102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 341 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 236 Cua Dai Rd 89 Tran Phu St 246-248 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 64 Bach Dang St 98 Bach Dang St 59 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Ba Trieu St 109 Tran Hung Dao St 111 Tran Hung Dao St An Bang Beach 126 Tran Cao Van St Cua Dai Beach 12 Ba Trieu St 34 Le Loi St 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 02 Tran Phu St. 22 Nguyen Hue St 321 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 48 Bach Dang St 103 Cua Dai St 43 Tran Hung Dao St 62 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 90 Back Dang St Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 188 A/5 Tran Phu St 132/2 Tran Phu St 175 Cua Dai Rd Far left, An Bang Beach 17 Le Loi St 46 Tran Cao Van St 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St Lac Long Quan St 76 Bach Dang St 113 Bach Dang St

0906552824 0510 3924 988 0510 3861 786 0510 3917 930 0510 3861 548 0510 3915 115 0510 3923 922 0510 3862 279 0510 3911 167 0510 3910 227 0510 3928 199 0510 3863 728 0510 3863 210 0510 3919 199 0510 3861 533 0510 3924 779 0510 3861 652 0510 3861 497 0510 3919 333 0510 3917 765 0510 3921205 0510 3916 176 0510 392 8244 0510 3917 139 0510 3927 040 0510 3864 463 0510 3911 899 0510 3911 863 0510 3910 839 0510 3861 527 0510 3861 603 0510 2241 396 0510 224 1555 0510 3861 651 0510 3923 723 0510 3861 673 0510 3910 589 0510 3862 130 0510 3933 222 0510 3911 700 0510 3910 369 012 2850 4627 0510 221 2640 0510 3864 800 012 2929 2922 0510 3911 948 0510 916 902

0510 3862 212 0510 3927 927 0510 3861 366 0510 3862 134

Thi Nhan Seafood Restaurant Thuan Y Restaurant Tao Do Restaurant Van Loc Restaurant Vegetarian Restaurant Vi Café Voulez – Vous Vu Le Café Waterfront White Marble White Rose Restaurant Yellow Flower Café Zero Seamile Club

128 Cua Dai Rd 94 Bach Dang St 29 Ba Trieu St 27 Tran Phu St 71/20 Phan Chu Trinh St 113 Tran Hung Dao St 631 Hai Ba Trung St 47 Cua Dai Road 150 Bach Dang St ,Da Nang 98 Le Loi St 533 Hai Ba Trung St 104 Bach Dang St Lac Long Quan St

0510 3862 261 0510 3863 179 0905 11 77 93 0510 386 1212 0510 3863 733 0510 3917 861 0510 3927 339 0510 221 21 32 0511 384 3373 0510 3911 862 0510 3862 784 0510 3241 341 0510 3911911

Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward 69 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 30 Phan Boi Chau St 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 01 Nguyen Tat Thanh St 544 Cua Dai St 680 Hai Ba Trung St 42 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Hamlet 5,Cam Thanh

0510 3927 729 0510 3911 888 0510 862 116 0510 391 4345 0510 391 7801 0510 3862231 0510 916 232 0510 914 400 0510 3933 933

Accommodation Agribank Resort An Hoi Hotel An Huy Hotel An Phu Hotel Bach Dang Hotel Cua Dai Hotel Dai Long Hotel Dong Khanh Hotel Frangipani Village Resort

LONG VY

LANTERNS

light up your life

Hoi An’s most respected lantern-maker with more than 40 years experience Supplies to all the major resorts in the region Ships overseas for business or events Easy-to-order online, all orders customizable Best prices and highest quality Vietnam Learn how to make lanterns in Long Vy workshop 06 Phan Chu Trinh St - www.hoianlantern.com.vn longdenlongvy@gmail.com - 0510 360 6611 – 0908 664 731

Index Furama Resort Glory Hotel Golden Sand Resort Grassland Hotel Green Field Hotel Ha An Hotel Hai Au Hotel Hai Yen Hotel Hoa Binh Hotel Hoa My Hotel Hoang Trinh Hotel Hoi An Ancient House Resort Hoi An Beach Resort Hoi An Hotel Hoi An Pacific Hotel Hoi An Riverside Resort Hoi An Trade Union Hotel Hoi An Trails Resort Hop Yen Hotel Hoi Pho Hotel Huy Hoang II Hotel Le Belhamy Resort Le Domaine De Tam Hai Resort Life Resort Long Life Hotel Lotus Hotel Minh Quang Hotel My Chau Hotel Nam Hai Resort Nhat Huy Hoang Hotel Nhi Nhi Hotel Orchid Garden Home Stay Palm Garden Resort Phuong Dong Hotel Phuong Nam Hotel Phuoc An I Phuoc An II River Hotel Phu Thinh II Hotel Pho Hoi I Hotel Pho Hoi Riverside Resort River Beach Resort Sea and Sand Hotel Sea Star Hotel Thanh Binh I Hotel Thanh Binh III hotel Thanh Van Hotel Red Bridge Villa

Thien Nga Hotel Thien Thanh Hotel Thien Trung Hotel Thuy Duong III Hotel

146

68 Ho Xuan Huong St, Da Nang 538 Cua Dai Rd Cua Dai Beach 500 Hai Ba Trung St 423 Cua Dai St 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St 576 (24B) Cua Dai Rd 568 Cua Dai St 696 Hai Ba Trung St 201 Ly Thuong Kiet St 45 Le Quy Don St 377 Cua Dai Rd 01 Cua Dai Rd 10 Tran Hung Dao St 321 Cua Dai Rd 175 Cua Dai Rd 80 Tran Hung Dao St 276 Cua Dai Rd 103 Ba Trieu St 627 Hai Ba Trung St 87 Hung Vuong St Dien Duong Hamlet, Dien Ban Dist Tam Hai, Nui Thanh 01 Pham Hong Thai St 30 Ba Trieu St 330 Cua Dai Rd 551 Hai Ba Trung St 04 Tran Cao Van St Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village 58 Ba Trieu St 60 Hung Vuong St 382 Cua Dai Rd Cam An Ward 42 Ba Trieu St 224 Ly Thai To St 31/1 Tran Cao Van St 242 Cua Dai Rd 488 Cua Dai Rd 7/2 Tran Phu St Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Ward Cua Dai Beach 15 Cua Dai Beach 489 Cua Dai Rd 01 Le Loi St 98 Ba Trieu St 78 Tran Hung Dao St Hamlet 4 ,Cam Thanh Village

52 Ba Trieu St 16 Ba Trieu St 129 Tran Hung Dao St 92-94 Ba Trieu St

0511 3847 888 0510 3914 444 0510 3927 550 0510 3921 921 0510 863484 0510 3863 126 0510 3914 577 0510 3862 445 0510 391 6838 0510 916582 0510 3916 579 0510 392 3377 0510 3927 011 0510 861 445 0510 392 3777 0510 3864800 0510 3862 370 0510 3923 999 0510 386 3153 0510 916 382 0510 3916 233 0510 3941 888 0510 354 5105 0510 391 4555 0510 391 6696 0510 3923 357 0510 3916 230 0510 3916 307 0510 394 0000 0510 3861 665 0510 3916 718 0510 386 3720 0510 392 7927 0510 916 339 0510 923 401 0510 916 757 0510 924 111 0510 3923 923 0510 3861 633 0510 3862 628 0510 392 7888 0510 3927 999 0510 3861 589 0510 3861 740 0510 3916 777 0510 3916916 0510 3933222 0905 452 092 0510 916 330 0510 916 545 0510 3861 769 0510 3916 565

Van Loi Hotel Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Vinh Hung 1 Hotel Vinh Hung II Hotel Vinh Hung III Hotel Vinh Hung Resort Vinh Huy Hotel Vuon Trau Family Resort

SHOPPING

Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Ward Cua Dai Beach 143 Tran Phu St Nhi Trung St 96 Ba Trieu St 111 Ngo Quyen, An Hoi Islet 203 Ly Tuong Kiet St Cam Chau Village

0510 3936 205 0510 392 7040 0510 861 621 0510 3863 717 0510 3916 277 0510 3910393 0510 916 559 0510 924165

(Including Arts & Crafts, Clothing, Jewellery, Shoes)

ARTS & CRAFTS (Including Art Galleries, Interior Products, Home DĂŠcor, Lanterns and Souvenirs) Ami Gallery Art Gallery 86 Art Gallery 93 Art Gallery 155 Art Handicraft Workshop Au Lac Wood Art Cam Ly Souvenir Shop Capallano Sculpture Casa Art & Gifts Charming Lacquer Shop Dai Phuc Lamp Shop

46 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 90 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 93 Phan Chau Trinh St 155 Tran Phu St 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 152 Tran Phu St 31 Tran Phu street 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 25 Phan Boi Chau St 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 300 Ly Thuong Kiet St

0510 3910 398 0510 3862 710 0510 386 1869 0510 3910 216 0510 3911 092 0510 3911 542 0510 3910 311 0984 344 914 0510 3911 554 05103921524

Index Diem Kieu Souvenir Shop Fine Art Handicraft Workshop Faifo Art Gallery Foco Souvenir Shop Ha Linh Lantern Shop Hoa Dao Hand Made Hoa Mai Art Gallery Hoang Thach souvenir shop Hoi An Agarwood Hung Dong Art Gallery Hung Long Art Gallery Hung Thai Souvenir Shop Hung Toan Art-Wooden Kim Bong Craft Village Lam Kieu Souvenir Shop Lantern Shop Loc An Art Gallery Long Vy Lanterns Montagne Handicrafts Mosaique Decoration Mr Binh Souvenir Shop Nam Tran Art Craft Ngan Xua Art Gallery Nguyen Tan Hiep Art Gallery Phan Kim Chi Art Gallery Phuoc Tinh Souvenir Shop Quynh Giao Embroidery Radio Tan Reaching Out Handicrafts Same Same But Better Gallery Soil Gallery Tan Phong Home Furniture Thang Loi Fine Arts_Handicraft Thanh Cong Art Gallery Thanh Tram Souvenir Shop Thien Tan Home Funiture TiTi Electronic Shop Tram Hoi An Fine Arts Handicraft Tran Phu Bamboo & Lacquer Tran Phu Lantern Shop Trung Tin Home Furniture Tuoi Ngoc Lantern Tuyen Xuong Loi Souvenir Shop Van Anh Carving & Bamboo Van Toan Souvenir Shop Vina Souvenir Shop Viet Town Artisan Village XQ Vietnam Yin Yang Antique & Art Shop 09 Souvenir Shop 75 Tran Phu Souvenir Shop

148

9 Nguyen Hue St 41 Le Loi St 05 Chau Thuong Van St 128 Tran Phu St 72 Tran Nhan Tong St 128 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 114 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 49 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 186 Tran Phu St 52 Tran Phu St 105 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 105 Tran Phu St 26 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Trung Ha Village,Cam Kim 41 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 06 Phan Chau Trinh St 101 Tran Phu St 61A Phan Chu Trinh St 131 Tran Phu St 62 Bach Dang St 95 Tran Phu St 44 Tran Phu St 37 Le Loi St 13 Tran Phu St 638 Hai Ba Trung St 174 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 298 Le Loi St 303 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 48 Ly Thuong Kiet St 92 Phan Chu Trinh St 95 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 51 Tran Phu St 173 Ly Thuong Kiet St 264 Ly Thuong Kiet St 186 Tran Phu St 75 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 130 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Phu St 40 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 120 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 62 Tran Phu St 127 Phan Chu Trinh St 23 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 60 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Hung Dao St 75 Tran Phu St

0510 222 455 05103862164 0510 3861 782 0510 3862 490 0510 3923 037 05103910 482 0510 3862 339 0510 3863 423 05103911866 0510 862902 0510 3861 924 0510 3911 200 0905558323 0510 3934 282 0510 386 1565 05103861996 0510 3910 208 0510 360 6611 0912357585 05108505000 05103862179 0510 3911 461 0510 3911 467 0510 3911 077 0510 3910 119 0510 386 1460 0510 3917 930 05103861270 0510 910 168 0510 3910 294 05103914967 05103862970 0510 3864 610 0510 3863 673 0510 39111 65 05103917138 05103864691 0510 3911 866 0510 3911 134 0510 3861 996 05103939939 0510 3861 920 0510 3911 048 0905113180 0510 3911 221 0511 862781 0510 391 7700 0510 911 872 0510 3911 449 0510 386 3573 0510 3911 134

CLOTHING (Including Fashion, Boutiques and Tailors) A Dong Silk An Cloth Shop Anh Silk Boutique Ao Ba Ba Cloth Shop Asian Cloth Shop Au-A Glasses Avana Bam–Bo Cloth shop Bamboo Green Tailor Bao An Cloth Shop Bao Diep Cloth Shop Bao Khanh Tailor BeBe Cloth Shop Bi Bo Design Bin Cloth Shop Blue Cloth Shop Blue Gecko Cloth Shop Ixora Shop Bup Design Cali Design

62 Tran Hung Dao St 63 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 507 Cua Dai St 148 Tran Phu St 572 Cua Dai St 87 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 15 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 481 Cua Dai Rd 38 Tran Phu St 64 Ba Trieu St 28 Tran Hung Dao St 101 Tran Hung Dao St 11 Hoang Dieu St 52 Tran Hung Dao St 296 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 56 Tran Hung Dao St 279 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 96 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 12 Le Loi St

Tailoring

with

0510 3910 579 0510 3911 144 0510 2211 981 0510 3920 666 0510 3863911 0126 8400 950 05103 939949 0510 2212 315 0510 3861 053 0510 3917 379 0510 3917 078 0510 3861 818 0510 2212 670 0510 3917 923 0510 914 524 0510 3917 392 0510 3915 789 0510 2471191 0510 3862 165 0510 3911 100

Taste

16 years experience, one of the original Hoi An cloth designers High quality, one-on-one, family style service Follows European technique and latest catalogue designs Fair prices, high quality 15 Phan Boi Chau St / 0510 3863 280 / 0905 101 068 rinmy_07@yahoo.com/www.rinmytailors.com

Index Chic Couture Chic-Unique Cloth Shop Chip Tailor Dong Duong Tailor Dung Tailor Elegant Cloth Shop Everybody’s Fashion Family Clothes Shop Fashion Shop Future Cloth Shop Giogio Tailor Guy & Gals Cloth Shop Hanh Hung Cloth Shop Happy Cloth Shop Heritage Boutique Hoang Lan Cloth Shop

House of Hoi An Hugo II Cloth Shop Huong Xuan Cloth Shop Impression Boutique Khoi Cloth Shop Kim Chi Tailor Kim Nhung Cloth Shop Kim Quyen Cloth Shop Lana Stylist

La Vy Cloth Shop Long Silk Ly Cloth Shop Mac Khai Cloth Shop Mai Ly Cloth Shop Mai Thanh Silk Minh Tri Tailor My Dieu Cloth Shop MyMy Cloth Shop My Trang Fashion Nam Ngai Silk New Fashion II New World Cloth Shop Ngan Ha Cloth Shop Nhat Silk Ngoc Uyen Silk Nit Tailor I&II Ny Na Boutique Papaya T-Shirt Papillon Noir

150

698 Hai Ba Trung St 62 Phan Boi Chau St 42 Bach Dang St 115 Tran Phu St 23 Le Loi St 35 Le Loi St 718 Hai Ba Trung St 86 Ba Trieu St 588 Hai Ba Trung St 586 Cua Dai Rd 702 Hai Ba Trung St 17 Tran Hung Dao St 103 Tran Hung Dao St 57 Phan Boi Chau St 29 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 42 Tran Phu St 105 Ba Trieu St 41 Le Loi St 29 Tran Phu St 08 Le Loi St 70 Tran Hung Dao St 20 Tran Hung Dao St 90 Le Loi St 166 Nguyen Truong To St 113 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 130 Tran Phu St 23 & 96 Le Loi St 36 Ba Trieu St 172 Tran Phu St 55 Phan Boi Chau St 12 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 57 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 112 Tran Phu St 342 Cua Dai St. 61 Ba Trieu St 164 Tran Phu St 503 Cua Dai St 93 Tran Phu St 89 Tran Cao St 70 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 37 Tran Phu St 36 Tran Hung Dao St 92 Le Loi St 42 Tran Phu St 86 Le Loi St 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 30 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Tran Phu St

0510 864 110 0510 3914 187 0510 3910 678 0510 3911611 0510 386 3865 0510 3911 847 0510 39 111 74 0510 3917 227 0905939044 0510 3915 186 0510 2241 440 0510 3861 947 0510 910 456 0510 3915 199 0510 3911 777 0510 910955 0510 212376 05103911512 0510 3916 553 0510 3861 498 0510 3862 063 0510 3861 113 0510 3862 244 0510 3927135 0510 3862134

0510 3911 211 0510 3501 581 0510 3863 400 0510 3914 123 0510 3861 397 0510 3862 794 0905 947 417 0510 324 1590 0510 3916 980 0510 3863 816 0510 3862 282 0510 3861166 0510 3917 893 0510 3910 300 0510 3861764 0510 3917 909 0510 3863 278 0510 3910 955 0510 3922 922 0510 3911068

0510 3917 941

Phu Quoc Souvenir Shop Phuoc An Cloth Shop Phuong Huy Cloth Shop Rin My Cloth Shop Silk Road Tailor

Song Shop Sova111 Couture & Design Sum Tailor Sun Cloth Shop Tamarind Tree Fine Clothing Thao Nguyen Cloth Shop The Galaxy Tailor Thu Linh II Tailor Thu Ly Cloth Shop Thu Thuy Silk Thuong Cloth Shop Thuong Gia Tailor Thong Phi Tailor Tony the Tailor Toto Cloth shop

162 Tran Phu St 06 Le Loi St 26 Tran Phu St 15 Phan Boi Chau 91 Phan Chau Trinh St 91 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 111 Tran Phu St 102 Tran Phu St 273 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 2/6 Le Loi St 79 Phan Chau Trinh St 37 Tran Phu St 40 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Hung Dao St 60 Le Loi St 16 Tran Hung Dao St 41 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 28 Le Loi St 294 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 32-34 Ba Trieu St

0510 3911 361 0510 862615 0510 3910 425 051038632820 05103863777 05103911058 0510 391 6333 0510 3911 078 0510 3863 394 0510 386 1449 0510 3863 784 0510 3861357 0510 3861 764 0510 3241 232 0510 3864 765 0510 386 1699 0510 3863 146 0510 3910 712 0510 3861145 0510 3861 923 0510 386 4797

151

LISTING

Index Trang Tri Cloth Shop Vu Thu Cloth Shop Vy Vy Cloth Shop Yaly Couture Yamy Cloth Shop 23 Ba Trieu Cloth Shop

63 Tran Hung Dao St 299 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Stall no1,Hoi An Clothes Market 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 11 Le Loi St 23 Ba Trieu St

0510 3911 179 0510 3863 975 0510 2211 972 0510 391 0474 0510 3910 215 0510 3962 111

78 Le Loi St 10 Pham Hong Thai St 55 Hoang Dieu St 23 Hoang Dieu St 62 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 96A Bach Dang St 97 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 147 Tran Phu St 139 Tran Phu St 636 Hai Ba Trung St

0510 910 411 0905 550 062 0510 3862 353 0510 3914 135 0510 3910 589 05103917889 0510 3911 483 0510 3864020 0510 3862 390 0510 3864269 0510 3917 930

311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 18 Nguyen Hue St 33 Tran Phu St 275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 635 Hai Ba Trung St 78 Bach Dang St 61 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 134 Tran Phu St 16 Tran Phu St 79 Phan Chu Trinh St 65 Tran Hung Dao St 495 Cua Dai St 724 Hai Ba Trung St 26 Phan Boi Chau St 732 Nhi Trung St

0510 3914 594 0510 2212 483 0510 911 655 0510 3914373 0510 3917 689 0510 628 1351 0510 3863 984 0510 3911 299 0510 861 975 0510 241 723 0510 386 3573 0510 3915 193 0510 3910 223 0510 3915 202 0510 3910 661

JEWELLERY Anh Vu Silver Shop Bac Viet Jewellery Bien Bac Jewelry Lac Viet Jewellery Lo Lem Stering Silver Shop Lotus Jewellery Memory Jewellery My Kim -Joli Kim Jewellery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Phuc Thinh Jewellery Quynh Giao Jewellery

SHOE Bao Anh Shoes Shop Bao Long Shoe Shop Dinh Shoe Shop First Shoe Shop Giay Viet Shoe Shop Hieu Giay Shoes Shop Hue Kiem Shoes Shop Levy Shoes Shop Linh Shoe Shop New Fashion Shoe Shop Shoe Shop 09 Thien Long Shoe Shop Tin Bag & Shoe Shop Tong Art Shoe Shop 732 Nhi Trung Handbag & Shoe Shop

Health and Wellness: Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Bao Tram Spa Countryside Charm Spa Dentist, Dr Nguyen Xuan Hai Dr: Ho Huu Phuoc Dream Spa Family Medical Practice Hoi An Day Spa Huy Hoang Pharmacy Life Spa, Life Resort Minh Tam Pharmacy Na Spa Nam Hai Spa

152

Nam Son Foot Massage Nina Nails NQ Spa Ona Spa-Beauty Salon Pacific Hospital Palm Spa & Salon Palmarosa Spa Qi Spa, Palm Garden Resort Senses Spa Tamarind Spa, Victoria Hotel Tin Duc Clinic Tuan Boy Beauty Salon Venus Spa Zen Spa 216 Pharmacy 230 Pharmacy

414 Cua Dai Rd 79 Ba Trieu St 446 Cua Dai Rd 45 Ba Trieu St 06 Phan Dinh Phung St Lac Long Quan St 90 Ba Trieu St Cam An Ward 175 Cua Dai Rd Cua Dai Beach 84 Tran Cao Van St 148 Nguyen Truong To St 95 Ba Trieu St 10 Tran Hung Dao St 03 Thai Phien St 584 Cua Dai Rd

Entertainment:

Bamboo Bar Before & Now Bar Camel Club Faifo Bar, Victoria Resort Guitar Hawaii

0510 3924 939 0510 3501 768 0510 3924 990 0510 3862 890 0510 921 398 0510 3927 927 0510 3933 999 0510 392 7927 0510 3864 800 0510 392 7040 0510 3917 819 0905 960 365 0510 3501 854 0510 3911 588 05103863753 0510 3862302 (Including Nightspots and Clubs with Activities)

05 Bach Dang St, Da Nang 51 Le Loi St 16 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Da Nang Cua Dai Beach 40 Nguyen Phuc Tan St

0511 3862029 0510 910 599 0511 388 7462 0510 3927 040 0935 116 147

(Including Medical, Spa and Salons, Pharmacy)

49 Ba Trieu St 496 Cua Dai Road 512 Cua Dai Rd 13 Le Loi St 47 Le Loi St 91 Ba Trieu St 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang 47 Ba Trieu St 268 Ly Thuong Kiet St 1 Pham Hong Thai St 04 Tran Hung Dao St 463 Cua Dai Rd Hamlet 1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist.

0510 3917972 0905 999 267 0510 3501 584 0510 3861513 0510 3 861419 0510 3623 174 0511 3582 699 0510 2222 723 0510 3916312 0510 391 4555 0510 3914606 0510 3914 199 0510 394 0000

FOOD - MUSIC - PEACE - CHESS - PETANQUE - WIFI - BONS PLANS - AMAZING BEACH...

laplagehoian.com

La Plage

Cam An beach - An Bang village - Hoi An - Vietnam 145

Index Heritage Bar La Plage Le Funk

Nam Bar New Phuong Dong Discotheque Q Bar River Lounge Bar Seventeen Saloon Tam Tam Bar

Treat’s Bar Vegas Bar White Marble Wine Bar Zero Seamile Beach Club

LISTING 01 Pham Hong Thai Street Far right, An Bang beach, 166 Bach Dang St ,Da Nang

61 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 20 Dong Da St ,DN 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 76 Tran Hung Dao St, Danang 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St 158 Tran Phu St 581 Hai Ba Trung St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lac Long Quan St

Mini Marts & Wine Bich Thuy Mini Mart & Wine Celliers d’Asie Fine Wines Dingo Deli French Red Wine Hanh Nga Mini Mart Nga Toan Mini Mart Son Toan Mini Mart Trung – Van Wine Shop Tu Huong Groceries Van Toan Groceries Vine Group, Wines and Spirits

0510 3914 555 0510 392 8244 0511 3843 291 0121554335 012 13 14 15 24 0511 3825 092 05103911964 0510 3911 700 0511 3530 987

0510 3862 212 0510 3861 125 0510 3863 430 0510 3911 862 0510 3911 911 (Including Mini Marts, Groceries, Wine)

318 Ly Thuong Kiet St 24 Ba Trieu St 229 Cua Dai Rd 185 Ly Thuong Kiet St Near Tan An Market 78 Dinh Tien Hoang St Hai Ba Trung St 49 Le Loi St 104 Nguyen Truong To St 177 Ly Thuong Kiet St 644 Hai Ba Trung St

05103820899 0510 3917 070 0906552824 05103917070 05103917210 05103917210 05103919152 0510 3910105 05103924563 05103861416 0510 3917 922

Books, Computers, DVDs, Mobile Phones, Photo Shop Book Exchange Chanh Binh Photo Shop DVD shop Hoi An Book Store Kien Vinh Computer Shop Lan Lan Phone Shop Le Gia Computer Shop Legend DVD shop Mr Hung Book Store Phone Shop Photocopy Shop Randy’s Book Exchange Tam Phat Computer Shop Tan Thoi Phone Shop

154

43 Phan Boi Chau St 09 Pham Hong Thai St 734 Hai Ba Trung St 2A Nguyen Hue St 586 Hai Ba Trung St 150 Nguyen Truong To St 276 Ly Thuong Kiet St 73 Phan Chau Trinh St 06 Nguyen Hue St 18 Ly Thuong Kiet St 189 Ly Thuong Kiet Cam Nam Village 11 Ba Trieu St 298 Ly Thuong Kiet

0510 861 692 05103863142 0903 585 186 0510 3910979 0510 3917393 0972 757 767 0510 3920 969 05103936159 0510 3910405 05103921 371 0510 3916109 0936089483 05103917952 0510 3934444

Picking a tailor in Hoi An is like the lottery; there are innumerous shops, many looking similar to the one next door.

Fortunately the tailors that have been around for as long as Dung Tailor (more than 20 years) are very reliable. Hoi An is too small a town to survive if your work lacks quality.

Dung Tailor is a mum and pop shop that exudes good vibes. It is a family shop in every sense of the word – Mr Dung, along with his wife and daughters, run the business which has been open since 1989. Being a trained tailor himself, all made-to-order clothes are made on the shop premises or in Mr Dung’s own home.

While tailors in Hoi An will typically try to undercut their peers, Dung Tailor offer fair prices from the beginning. The prices are determined by the amount of hours needed to make each product and the quality of material. Mr Dung won’t compromise on quality in order to lure customers with cheap prices.

If you’re looking to have something custom-made during a visit in Hoi An, Dung Tailor is a trustworthy family business that offers friendly service, peerless expertise and fair prices!

Expect personal attention and service and high quality.

Dung Tailor 23 Le Loi - 0510 386 3865 - 0905 945 956 duyen_dung38@yahoo.com

Important Contacts Hoi An is a laid back place with problems rarely surfacing, however, we have listed important numbers for you to call should you have any health, safety or other concerns. If you have any feedback for us about what else should be included, we invite you to write us an email: editor@livehoianmagazine.comtacts

Emergency

Hoi An Police Station (0510) 3 861 204

Family Medical Practice, Danang 0913 917 303

Hoi An Tourism Authority (0510) 3 861 327

Hoi An 0903 597 997

Hoi An Hospital (0510) 861 364 (0510) 3 861 480 Hoi An Taxi Corporation (0510) 3919919 (0510) 3 862 952 Extension) (0510) 3910093 Mai Linh Taxi Corporation (0510) 3914914

1

156

1

1