Live Hoi An Magazine by Spot Design HCMC

Activities . Art . Dining . Entertainment . Hotels . Shopping . Spas

Nhà Xuất Bản Tổng Hợp Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh

Contents Preface: Hoi An Useful Information: Sam’s Good Business List:

2 12, 14 18,19

Features Traditional Chinese Chess : Hoi An’ Silk Trade: Shopping Tips from Miss C: Hoi An Timelapse: I say Tomato, you say Ca Chua : Rules of the Road in ‘Nam: Photo Essay:

22-24 25-27 28-31 32-37 38-43 44,45 50-55

Maps Hoi An- Da Nang Coast Hoi An Old Quarter An Bang / North Town Area Cua Dai / East Town Area

56 60,61 64,65 68,69

Sections Golf: Accommodation: Activities: Dining: Shopping: Health & Wellness: Family: Property: Around Hoi An: Travel: Da Nang:

70-73 75,76 78-81 86-103 106-111 114-116 118,119 120-123 124,125 126-131 132-141

Business Directory:

142-154

Important Contacts:

156

“ So m u Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: +84 510 3927 040 - Fax: +84 510 3927 041 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

r u o t a n a h ch mor e t

will tional and fun, educa tnam, all in is h ic h w r l Vie A tou see the rea r with bring you to you will end the tou ols to ly e n o th t o ve N a ill h one! s, but you w oting like a pro! to o h p g n zi o e sh ama to continu

Contact Etienne: info@hoianphototour.com or 09 05 67 18 98

www.hoianphototour.com

”

Preface As the sun starts to set on Hoi An’s dry season I for one will be celebrating – no more crazy humidity, bye bye impossibly hot nights and best of all? No more budgie smugglers (speedos) strutting up and down the beach obstructing the magnificent Cham Islands view! Anyway what’s a bit of rain when we’ve got the most festive three months of the calendar to lift our spirits and keep us entertained?

LANA FINE TAILORING

I guess for many it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas back home, so apologies if you came here to escape. We’ve got the rainy season covered though in this edition with top tips on having the most fun with a 5,000VND body condom (rain coat to you). This includes a wonderful guide to Christmas gift ideas, spas and other activities appropriate when it’s pouring down. Not to mention our fantastic food reviews including a heads up on one of the most coveted expat secrets – a banh xeo place that is definitely off the tourist map and great for winter dining. However, if you just want to kick back and have a good read there are some fabulously interesting features to help brush you up on the local culture, or, if the rain really is getting you down, check out our onward travel section for a couple of tried and tested alternatives. Warmest of welcomes! P.S For a month by month guide as to what’s happening in town grab our handy fold out map which is available all over Hoi An… and is also free! Center Viet Nam Advertising & Marketing Co.,Ltd 36 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3920889 Fax: 0510 3920889 info@livehoian.com www.livehoian.com CEO, Editorial and Sales Director: Amy Morison General Manager: Phung Anh Kiet Sales Manager: Neil Fraser Associate Editor: Caroline Mills Administration Manager: Nguyen Thi Van Website Content Manager: Emma Bolton Distribution Manager: Phan Ngoc Vinh Design: Spot Design – www.spotdesign.com.vn Assistant Photographer: Nguyen Dinh Phong Contributors: Neville Dean and Phil Mellifont Special thanks to Steve from Sleepy Gecko Chillout Bar and Restaurant for the cover photo (sleepygeckohoian.com) LIVE HOI AN - (Song ngữ) Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Nguyễn Thị Thanh Hương Biên tập: Tường Minh. Sửa bản in: Tường Khánh In 7,000 cuốn, khổ 10x20cm tại Công ty in Trần Phú, 71-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. Hồ Chí Minh Số đăng ký kế hoạch xuất bản: 79-12/CXB/377-04/THTPHCM Cục xuất bản ký ngày 05 tháng 07 năm 2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 07 năm 2012

dare to be different Why LANA? Because we strive to be different from the hundreds of other tailors shops in Hoi An. Look around at many of the tailors shops in Hoi An and you will see the same old, tired-looking designs. At LANA, we keep in touch with the latest fashions and trends as well as offering all the classics. At LANA, customer satisfaction is our prime concern and with that in mind we recently opened our own, fully equipped, on-site tailoring studio. Using state-of-the-art equipment from Germany and Japan we are able to offer our customers the best tailor made garments at the most competitive prices.

CONTACT US 90 Le Loi St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3929559 94 Le Loi St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3911211 130 Tran Phu St., Hoi An. t: +84 (0)510 3911009 e: lanaallure@me.com w: lanatailor.net

Travel

Culinary CARGO CLUB

creations MORNING GLORY by Ms. Vy MERMAID restaurant-hoian.com

Ms Tuong’s Tailormade Shoes and Clothes:

“World class des igns at local prices” Tuong Cloth Shop Highly regarded as one of the best tailors in town, Ms Tuong is a third generation tailor with over 14 years personal experience in catering to foreigners. She is more concerned with making her customers happy than profits – and reputation in Hoi An certainly goes a long way. Ms Tuong is renowned for her high quality materials, efficiency and sewing techniques. “The guest must be happy. I will do everything to ensure that the clothes they ordered are made exactly how they want and will compensate them with new clothes if they are not 100% satisfied. I’ll also return any deposit made if the guest are still not happy with the clothes after the final fit,” says Ms Tuong.

Shoe Shop 09 For funky sneakers, stylish work shoes, heels, brogues or sandals – Shoe Shop 09 has every design imaginable. Or you give them your own design, and it will be tailor-made. Owned by the charismatic Ms Tuong, Shop 09 is one of the most established shoemakers in Hoi An. Her business is over 12 years old and she offers the most competitive prices in town. Ms Tuong shoemakers’ have studied European techniques in shoemaking so you can be assured that every item is made to international standards. Unlike other shoe shops where the products may last only one or two wears, Ms Tuong only uses 100% leather and the finest quality materials. She also sells a wide range of top quality leather handbags and jackets. Her friendly English-speaking staff can help you create your ideal pair of shoes for a mere fraction of what you would ever pay back home!

Ms Tuong imports fabrics from India, Italy and the US, as well as using regionally produced silks and cottons. She has served many international guests who continue to return year after year or re-order through her when in town or via email.

Shoe Shop 09 & Tuong Cloth Shop: 65-67 Tran Hung Dao St. - 0510 386 3573 - tuong2002@hotmail.com

New collection!

Clothing range for women & kids Hand made quilts, cushion covers

Sale Homeware & Fashion

-10%

100% organic cotton & silk

-50%

Discover a world of prints &

9.00am-9.30pm

www.metiseko.com

colors in Metiseko Boutique: Pagoda Japanese bridge Bridge

Tr a n P hu

Nguyen Tha i H o c B ac h D an g

L e Loi

Metiseko Boutique: 03 Chau Thuong Van, near the Japanese bridge

-30%

Hoi An Essential ❖ Hoi An Essential Info Hoi An is a place rooted in tradition and history. On December 4, 1999 UNESCO declared Hoi An's Old Town a World Heritage Site to preserve its historical structures. Hoi An’s past is a resplendent tapestry of arts and culture having served as a key trading port and supplier of fine crafts for the imperial city of Hue. Contemporary Hoi An still thrives as a very arts-oriented community and as a town with many cultural experiences on offer, including gourmet restaurant, boutique shopping and luxury relaxation options. The Basics: • When visiting local attractions, be respectful. Wear appropriate clothing when entering temples or ancestral sites. Quiet appreciation is the key – and locals will appreciate you for it. • During the normal working week there are certain times when you cannot ride a motorbike or electric bikes into the old quarter. These are (Monday to Saturday): - 8am-11am - 2pm-4.30pm - 6:30pm-9:00pm Sunday: The roads are open to motorbikes excluding the evenings from 6.30pm-9pm. • Often in the old town you will be approached by children selling small souvenirs. They may be difficult to ignore but unfortunately when you buy from these cute little touts it’s not the best way to help them. Live Hoi An recommends a number of organizations instead (see Sam’s Good Business List) who channel money to those that are truly underprivileged. • The best way to visit Hoi An’s old town attractions is to buy a one day ticket (valid for 24 hours) for 90,000VND. You can purchase tickets from various booths around town, including the Hoi An Office Of Tourist Services (78 Le Loi St). From 18 options (such as old houses, museums, assembly halls, performances centres) you can choose five, which will give you a decent insight into the local culture. Visit www.hoianworldheritage.org.vn for more information. Also, remember, walking is free. There is no fee for simply walking the streets of the old town. Legendary Full Moon Night • Every month the town celebrates the full moon with locals honouring their ancestors with offerings to shrines and burning incense. The old quarter is pedestrianised (no bicycles or motorized vehicles until after 9pm) and fluorescent lights are banned adding to the old world charm. This is a truly special night where you can wander the old town while it is lit up with lanterns and watch local performances, hear musical renditions, poetry recitals or watch as some of the older townsmen play a game of traditional Chinese chess. It corresponds with the 14th day of the lunar calendar. See our Live Hoi An monthly flyer (with fold out map) for current events and promotional listings. You can also check our website: www.livehoian.com

Hoi An Essential ❖ Getting Around Old Town Bicycle / Motorbike If your hotel doesn’t provide a bicycle you can easily hire one – or a motorcycle. Ask your hotel for advice. Bicycles cost 20,000VND to rent per day. Motorbikes range from 100,000VND (semi-automatic) to150,000VND (automatic). Petrol is approximately 25,000VND. Use the Petrolimex stations where you can and be sure to check the pump metre. Motorbike Taxis (Xe Om) Depending how far your hotel is, xe oms from old town can be the easiest means of transportation. Short distances are a standard 25,000VND. Check with the driver first and negotiate your price. In Hoi An, those wearing a collared pinkishcoloured shirt (with a number) are officially recognized xe om drivers. Car Taxis Two main companies exist and use meters: Mai Linh (white and green): 0510 3914 914 and Faifoo (yellow): 0510 3919 191. From old town the most accessible points are the intersection at Phan Chu Trinh St and Le Loi St or across the river at An Hoi peninsular. Cyclo All cyclos have number plates and are managed by the local police. A rough guide is to pay 50,000VND per hour, however, the cyclists will be honest when giving you a rate. Boat Take a trip down the river to the water coconut groves and back at approximately 100,000VND per person. If you’re in town during wet season a basic row boat to view the sights will be between 30,000-70,000VND, depending on where you are going and the weather conditions.

❖ Useful Everyday Prices Typical Hoi An Street Foods You can buy Cao Lau (Hoi An specialty noodles), Mi Quang (another specialty noodle for the Quang Nam province), Com Ga and Pho from street stalls easily. The central market stalls provide these at fixed prices of 20,000VND per dish. This should be your guideline if purchasing similar, singular dishes from other vendors in town. Banh Mi should cost approximately 10,000VND (with a meat filling). Do not pay more than 15,000VND. Drinks from street vendors • Water - small (7-10,000VND) Big (15,000VND) • Soft drinks – can (10,000VND) big bottle (20,000VND) • Beer – can (15,000VND) Snacks from beach or street vendors • Peanuts: 10,000 per bag • Quail eggs: 15,000VND per bag Basic items • Raincoat/poncho (10,000 VND – pay no more than 15,000VND) • Flip Flops (40,000-80,000VND – cheap ones from market no more than 40,000VND, designer are more expensive) • Drip Coffee Filter (20,000VND + small coffee bag 30,000VND) • Conical Hat (20,000VND – pay no more than 30,000VND) • Souvenir T-shirts (80,000-120,000VND – depending on quality, pay no more than 140,000VND unless an authentic 100% cotton provider) • Tiger Balm (20,000VND)

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Operating Hours: Monday to Friday: 0800hrs to 1700hrs Saturday: 0830hrs to 1100hrs Sunday and Public Holiday: Closed

SAM'S LIST- Good Businesses in Hoi An & Danang

Ways to get involved...

Organisations NAME Foundation East Meets West Global Village

FOCUS

WEBSITE

BUY SOMETHING

VOLUNTEER

GIVE MONEY TAX DEDUCTION

Children

Check website

Yes

AU, US

Girls/

www.childrenseducationfoundation.org.au

Long term, self funded volunteers

Yes

Children

www.eastmeetswest.org

Check website

Yes

US UK/ US

Sponsorship

Children & Families

Minimum 3 weeks for Doctors/nurse Specialists in disability/ special education

Children

www.kianh.org.uk

Check website

Yes

Children

www.globalvolunteernetwork.org /vietnam/

Check website

Yes

Web/ Blog

Healthcare

Green Apple Website Environment

www.greenapplehoian.com

Check website

Teach Children to swim STEC Smart Tutoring Children/ Education Golden Turtle Teach Children Swim Club to swim

www.swimvietnam.com

Activities

Foundations

CHIA (Children's Hope In Action)

Check website/ Swim instructors

Global Volunteer Network

Restaurants

Swim Vietnam

Bread of Life

Disabled Adults

Co Dam Vegetarian Restaurant

Health/ Environment

Blue Dragon

Children

Sponsorship 596 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An

Long term/ Check website Email: goldenturtles wimclub@gmail.com

www.breadoďŹ&#x201A;ifedanang.com

Restaurant: 12 Le Hong Phong St, Danang

Check website

www.streetkidsinvietnam.com

Restaurant: 71/20 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoi An Restaurant: 46 Bach Dang St, Hoi An Restaurant: 17 Le Loi St, Long term only Hoi An

Yes

US, AUS

Yes

Online Store

Yes

www.stecvn.weebly.com Check our Facebook page

Training/ Streets International Hospitality Disadvantaged Youth www.streetsinternational.org The Little Feet Fair Trade/ www.thelittlefeetcompany.co.uk Company Children

Shopping

Environment Reaching Out

Disabled Adults

Smile House

Disabled Adults

Lifestart Foundation Children & Women Papaya T Shirts

Children

Yes

www.reachingoutvietnam.com

www.lifestartfoundation.org.au www.papaya-tshirt.com www.poussieresdevie.org

Eco Chic Boutique: 3 Chau Thuong Van St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 103 Nguyen Check website Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 126 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 77 Phan Check website Chau Trinh St, Hoi An 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, 627 Hai Ba Trung

Yes

Crafting Abilities To Overcome Disability Reaching Out is a local fair trade social enterprise located in the Old Town of Hoi An. Reaching Out employs physically impaired persons as crafts men and women to produce Vietnamese souvenirs for tourists. The owner of Reaching Out, also physically impaired, decided to empower others like him, and help them integrate into society. The organisation provides the necessary training for the artisans based on their ability and interest. They form the backbone of Reaching Out making Vietnamese gifts and souvenirs for the shop.

Shop

Learn

Buy high quality, handmade, eco-friendly Vietnamese gifts and souvenirs based on fair trade principles to benefit the artisans.

Be part of the experience. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re welcome to spend some time with the artisans, and even learn the craft through our workshop sessions.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy for you to share your expertise: offer product ideas, volunteer, provide vocational training or sponsor a trainee!

CRAFT SHOP

103, Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An TEAHOUSE

131 Tran Phu, Hoi An info@reachingoutvn.com

reachingoutvietnam.com

Chess Traditions that don’t wane:

on Full Moon night Amy Morison

Every month, on the night of the full moon, chess players gather together to play and maintain one of the town’s most time-honoured and cherished traditions.

The night is festive – music and laughter echo throughout the old town’s lantern-lit streets. Colours shimmer across the Thu Bon river. Against a milieu of UNESCO-listed heritage buildings, two elderly men sit, in traditional silken Vietnamese tunics and turbans, engrossed in a game of Cờ tướng – Chinese chess. Every month, on the night of the full moon, chess players gather together to play and maintain one of the town’s most time-honoured and cherished traditions. If you’re in town during the legendary full moon night, you might very well see Mr Le Van Su – an affable 85 year old with a warming smile – engaged in a game of chess. With features and a personality that has infinitely more character than the ancient walls that provide the backdrop to his game, Mr Su is a delight to meet. He is also one of the people responsible for ensuring that the game of Cờ tướng continues to thrive in Hoi An. As the assistant head of the Hoi An Elderly Association, he is one of the organizers of the chess activities during the full moon – there are eight different locations where men play, with at least one pair at each venue in traditional costume (these are mainly the assembly halls and performance centres on Tran Phu, Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets). Fortunately for us, Mr Su agreed to an interview with Live Hoi An to further explain the significance of the game.

• Firstly, could you tell us a bit about yourself? I was originally born in Dien Ban district, a neighbouring district to Hoi An. I was fatherless from age 3 and my mother worked hard to bring me up. I was a cadre for a commune and in 1954 was transferred to the staterun transport company where I acted as chairman of the trade union. In retirement and years later, I was invited to become assistant head of the Hoi An Elderly Association, which gives me the opportunity to help organize and manage the Chinese chess activities on full moon night. • Could you explain to us the importance of playing this game on the full moon night? Do you play at any other times? Chinese chess appeared in Vietnam centuries ago. Formerly, the older men would play the game in Vietnamese dress and their smart turbans (the ready-made style) whilst sipping tea. Nowadays, while some men – such as myself – play chess elsewhere, it has become an important tradition for the town on the full moon night; namely to showcase our cultural activities to tourists. When I am not playing on full moon night I play at the Hoi An Elderly Assocation Club and in street coffee shops. • What is the objective of Cờ tướng and how does it differ from Western Chess? The game consists of a battle between two armies, with the object being to capture the enemy's general (king). While there are differences, there are a lot of similarities between Western chess and Chinese chess. Both have armies and pieces that represent the king or general as well as horses and soldiers. The way to play the pieces is also often the same.

25 • When did you learn how to play this game? I was aware of the game from a young age and would study the older men when they played. As I grew up, I indulged in playing and developed more of a passion – I not only studied from other players but also researched different strategies in books. So step by step you could say I became an expert of the game. Now that I am old, I find that my moves are not so skilful. I remember when I was younger and had a more active mind, that I would imagine the whole game and be able to play it even without the pieces or chess table. I thought about chess a great deal – often playing a game in my mind.

Hoi An’s Silk Trade:

Weave your way back in time Caroline Mills

• Is there an interest in young people in this game? Yes, Chinese chess has become quite a common activity in Hoi An – many are fond of the game. Most often younger people meet in coffee shops and play which differs from the old days where old men would play whilst drinking tea. Many coffee shops these days have a board available. • Can you tell us what you most love about playing it? I love it when I’m in a very difficult situation – after being attacked by my opponent – and I find a way to get out of it. Of course, winning is wonderful, but for me I love a good challenge, that is what is most exciting. • Is there anything you would like to mention to our readers of Live Hoi An about the game? We always hope that when tourists come to Hoi An they will have a chance to see some of our traditional activities. We invite tourists to watch us play and are also happy to teach them how to play if they would like to learn. Their pleasure is our pleasure.

According to the Book of Han, people have known the process of making silk since 2000BC in Vietnam – and although it has a vibrant history that is shrouded in mystery, archaeologists have also dated its existence back as far as 2750BC. As few knew how it was precisely made back in those early times, silk fast became a commodity more valuable than gold – and at one point was even used as currency in China. In 30BC, the Roman government tried banning silk as they were concerned about the amount of gold and silver pouring out of Rome in its exchange. Silk had become the more prized asset.

Hoi An’s role in silk production dates back many centuries, but the production boom did not occur until the 16th century, when China – the biggest silk producer in the world – banned foreign trade and the famous Maritime Silk Road, which linked traders from around the globe, was established with Hoi An (or Faifo as it was called then) at its centre.

Eurasian Anâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s harbours!.

For the Vietnamese, a windfall of silk trade commenced, as China applied the embargo policy just as the demand for silk had peaked. At the same time, Japan desperately needed high quality silk for their royal court in addition to war materials for their army. Silk had become the most sought after luxury item traded across the continent and all the trade was taking place in Hoi

As demand peaked, local crafts people formed guilds and established craft villages specializing in the production of the more popular items. Kim Bong became renowned for its woodwork, Thanh Ha for its pottery and Ma Chau for silk. Each and every one of these villages are still active today. Ma Chau and also back then Dong Len village were producing some of the best quality silks available outside of China and began supplying their wares to the aristocrat and Mandarin classes, with over two hundred households working away on old wooden looms trying to keep up with the demand. Silk soon became the most popular exported merchandise and Faifo became famous for its fine silk. Over the subsequent years, the demand decreased, when China once again opened its doors to foreign trade and Faifoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s river silted over. Hence Hoi Anâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part as the busiest trading port was abruptly bought to an end and Dong Yen, which in its hay day had grown more than 160 hectares of Mulberries took its craftsmen and emigrated south to Bay Hien leaving Ma Chau as the only silk producing village left in the Quang Nam province.

While Kim Bong and Thanh Ha have become hugely popular with tour groups over the more recent years, Ma Chau all but disappeared, with trade continuing only quietly for export abroad. But with the popularity of silk lanterns and tailor shops, the interest in local silk has sparked a revival and in August 2012, the Hoi An Silk Village opened its doors to tourists. Set on a huge two-hectare plot on t h e outskirts of town, Hoi An Silk Village is a charming development of old Hoi An houses each showcasing its own stage of the silk production, from silk worm breeding to the end product, which is metres and metres of the softest Champa silk you could possibly lay hands on. The village also has a 300 year old Champa and Vietnamese Mulberry Garden and offers visitors both morning and afternoon tours explaining the art of silk production from Mulberry cultivation onwards with the highlight being the opportunity to see both Champa and Vietnamese artists reeling, spinning and weaving silk using traditional techniques passed down through the generations. At the end of each tour you get the chance to peruse their main shop and take home your own beautifully woven piece of history.

Hoi An Silk Village 28 Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, Hoi An | +84 (0) 935 502 575

Shopping

Tips Hoi An Style! Caroline Mills

First and foremost you are going to need a drink, a big one – you’ll find it’s happy hour in most bars and restaurants from around breakfast onwards, avoid the local rice wine unless you have a strong desire to wake up in the morning to find you’ve pretty much stockpiled every clay whistle shaped animal available, a life-sized marble Buddha and that old Hoi An favourite, the wooden cheese grater, available at every market and most fresh beer restaurants in town, with no recollection of the experience whatsoever.

Essential Phrases It’s great to be able to barter in the local language and the locals love nothing more than to have a good laugh at the foreigner, so to keep you all happy I’ll list the best ones. Rather than confuse you with the ‘correct spellings’ I’ve written them as they sound to me, including some ‘advanced’ pronunciations where I’ve given you an English equivalent to help you remember them in brackets. These have been tried and tested and surprisingly work when forgetting the Vietnamese. © Sean Martin - (Flickr name: 1 Thousand Words)

You! You! Buy something

If there is one thing I hate with a passion it’s shopping, so why I’ve been instructed to write this guide is as mysterious to me as the correct pronunciation of ‘please’ is to the lovely locals inviting us to ‘come in my shop pls’. Somewhere in this winter edition of Live Hoi An a good hearted shop-a-holic is writing you a guide on what to buy, so I’m going to give you a guide that will make shopping here almost bearable, at best fun and if you are willing to don a full facemask, gloves, a crash helmet and learn the basics of Vietnamese, I can even promise you local prices. Oh Troi Oi!

Good and Bad Shopping Karma

Hello – ell O. Excuse me, could you possibly help me? - An Oi! How much is this please? - Bao nhieu tien? Gosh! That’s a little more than I’d like to spend! - Oh Troi Oi! At this point you will be showered with compliments at your fluent grasp of the local language. Respond to this with a chicken impression (chuck chuck) and the original price will halve, you can either choose whether you are so desperately in need of another drink that the price is fine or you are the sort that wants to argue over 10,000VND. If you are the latter you’d better have the patience of a saint, a good understanding of a calculator and be secure in the knowledge there is a toilet nearby should your lunch time Cao Lau start causing you some concern, then all you need is a quick thank you – Cam On (a mixture of come on and gammon), See you later – ang a bly (ankle pliars), Yes – (YZ?) – and of course kong cam on, (pokemon) which means no thank you. If you’re still in the bar or are halfway through shopping and stop for another bevvy make sure you cheers the locals by wishing them good luck, chip sea qway (gypsy queer). Numbers are good to know unless you are afraid of your hip measurement which will be shouted across the shop if you dare get something tailored. Mot, Hai, Ba (one, two, three) should cover most bases, five – nam is the one I find easiest so I generally just buy things in multiples of five.

If the staff are asleep, or the words ‘lucky’ or ‘first customer’ are uttered within the first few seconds of entering, get out now. This also applies to situations where an ATM is located within the shop. If the staff are drunk (males, Sunday PM) you will get the best prices – this is good news for all foreign shoppers, but sadly few males man the shops for this very reason. If things go dramatically wrong, just walk out, and if after 2 minutes you are not being chased down the street by the shop staff wanting to match your price do not lose faith, you WILL find exactly the same quaint lacquerware bison you so desperately coveted and actually now NEED in every single shop in the town. In fact, quite possibly the country. So calm down. Drink deep. Try again.

Shopping

Tips

If you forget all this then just do everything with a smile, nobody is trying to rip you off or have you over and if you find you are rather good at this shopping thing and even enjoy the experience, well I’ve got a Christmas list that needs doing. Please find me at the bar.

Life in the fast lane:

A time lapse of Hoi An Ancient town Amy Morison with all photos by Rob Whitworth

Rob Whitworth - an Asian-based British photographer – could not have picked a better country to explore his passion for creating time lapse videos than Vietnam. His first time lapse project went viral on the net, gaining an audience of over 1.6 million viewers. It was a film that captured the world famous chaos of HCMC’s street traffic, entitled ‘Traffic in Frenetic HCMC’. His latest work, however, focuses on the charming and colourful frenzy of commercial activity in our local township of Hoi An, aptly called: ‘Life in the Fast Lane: Hoi An Ancient Town’. Check it out at: http://www.robwhitworth.co.uk/hoi-an.html Rob’s time lapse plays to an energetic composition called ‘Blithe Ascent’ by Adam Burns, Jez Burns and Chris Salt and manages to depict the unique temperament of the Hoi An old quarter during the hours when the streets are most active – which is in the morning.

35 As Rob describes: “Each day in Hoi An the morning calm disappears in a frenzy of activity as everyday life starts over. Whether it’s conical-hatted ladies conducting million-dong-deals or school girls in their perfect white Ao Dai uniforms commuting four-to-a-bicycle, Hoi An is a hive of activity... that is, until about 9pm each day when the bustling streets empty and calm returns. Hoi An has effectively been preserved in time from its days as one of South East Asia's busiest trading ports. I was privileged to call Hoi An my home for just over a year. As a visitor I will only ever understand a fraction of the activity that keeps the streets and waterways alive. I wanted to capture and share some of the sights that inspired me during my time in this historic town.” Time lapse videos are increasing in popularity with the growth of sharing sites like Vimeo. Images taken over a number of minutes or hours can be played back multiple times faster enabling time to be compressed, revealing hidden patterns and events. As Rob says, “It can be very technically demanding but, at its simplest all you need is a method of fixing a camera in one location, a good view and a good book.”

Q&A with Rob ❖ What inspired you to start creating time lapse videos? One of my first high school black and white photography projects was to document the passing of time using still life sets, photographing flowers and fruit in their prime and revisiting them a few weeks later. I was intrigued at how there are many things constantly going on all around us which pass by largely unnoticed. Time lapse provides a great way to use a camera to show the world as we cannot see it. It's quite addictive when you get into it. ❖ Why Vietnam – and why Hoi An? I was given the perfect opportunity to travel to Hoi An with my girlfriend Sue who took over the responsibilities of In-Country manager at Lifestart Foundation, an Australian charity helping disadvantaged kids in Central Vietnam. It was an amazing year, both personally and as a photographer. ❖ How long did it take to complete all the photography and editing for the Hoi An video? Far too long… the hardest part was getting good sunsets. I found that much of the year the sun disappeared into a murky band of haze at around 4:30pm. Living in Hoi An was crucial to allowing to capture Hoi An in the best light and respond to the conditions. The shooting was carried out between January 2011 and 2012.

A highlight of shooting the video was meeting people. Much of the shots are captured from people’s balconies and looking out from windows. It's something I love about photography generally is how it creates opportunities and enables you to experience things you'd otherwise miss. I would ask people if I could take some photos from their balconies. My Vietnamese is very limited so I Google translated some text from English and wrote it down. Sadly Google translate missed off all of the accents in its translation so I'm pretty sure the text ended up meaning something completely different. It often got a laugh and drew a crowd anyway. An event that springs to mind was finding out how sticky rice was made. Myself and a friend got up at 3am and headed out into the countryside near Hoi An. We met Mia who was already hard at work preparing the day’s food. We were fascinated to see the process and work that went into the finished food we were familiar with seeing for sale by the side of the road. ❖ Would you say Hoi An is a paticularly photogenic location? If yes, could you explain why? It's a very pretty town although the hook for me was complete curiosity. With so much life all around, it felt like Narnia when I first arrived and I wanted to make sense of it and capture it. An advantage of shooting time lapse is it provides time to sit and watch enabling you to see small details that could easily be missed. ❖ You mention that time lapse photography and video making has become easier with sharing sites such as Vimeo. What about applications that people can use to create a time lapse? Do you have any recommendations (perhaps for those with a more professional aptitude, and for those who might want to capture something from their mobile phone camera / app)?

I'm a big fan of Nikon products, their newer cameras have inbuilt intervelometers which simplify the process of judging how many shots you need to make so much footage etc etc. Professionally, it hinges on the Adobe Creative Suite products and manual camera settings. At an enthusiast level there are plenty of iPhone and Android apps that provide pretty good results. What I love about time lapse is it's often the element you didn't even consider that becomes the dominant factor, like shadows or clouds coming alive. ❖ About the music – was it composed exclusively for the video / do you know the composers? Why this particular song? Sadly not, I had a track lined up and finished for the first version of the video. Just prior to releasing it I double checked and the music label had had a change of heart, so I had to basically rebuild the video and find a different song. I hunted around and found the 'Blithe Accent' track that had an upbeat tempo and feel. I contacted the artists and this time it all went well from there. ❖ Any plans for a new time lapse? Kuala Lumpur; I got to spend some time there earlier in the year and have had a few trips there since, getting some great access and locations in the process. I'm just about to start assembling the first draft, hoping to have it finished by mid-October….. I've also been working on a Vietnamese pop video due for release shortly set in HCMC. It's in production the moment and still a secret [as to the subject matter] at the moment. However I'm pretty excited to see how it is received.

HOI AN TIME LAPSE

❖ Did locals often ask / inquire about what you were doing during shoots? Do you have any interesting stories or anecdotes from your shoots regarding your interaction with the local Vietnamese?

WATCH ROB’S HOI AN TIME LAPSE HERE: http://www.robwhitworth.co.uk/hoi-an.html DON’T FORGET TO SHARE IT ON YOUR FACEBOOK AND TWITTER ACCOUNTS! All photos are © to Rob Whitworth

Tomato, you say Cà chua but we can both say ‘Carrot’ I Say

Phil Mellifont

The differences are easy and often unexpected – I remember the look of disbelief a few visiting Aussie friends wore on their faces only a few short years ago, when they asked about buying a birthday card for one of their group. Vietnamese people do celebrate birthdays nowadays, but in the past this was something they’d rarely do. Historically a Vietnamese person was regarded to be 1 year old at birth, and their age would increase each year at Tet (Vietnamese New Year), so there were no birthdays celebrated and often the actual date of birth wasn’t recorded. Actually a baby born in November whose age we would measure in months, would be regarded as a 1 year old in Vietnam, and a few short months later would be regarded as 2 years old at the New Year. Even the timing of Vietnamese New Year is different to ours as they use the lunar calendar. About birthdays – I’ve heard many Vietnamese sing the happy birthday song, in English that is, and there’s plenty of birthday cakes that are blown out, but I’ve never seen a birthday card in Vietnam – if they do exist I imagine they’re written in Vietnamese. In any case these Aussie friends sat, mouths wide open, refusing to believe that an English printed birthday card would most likely be unavailable in Hoi An, and disregarding my comments ventured off to look for one anyhow. I’m sharing this story to illustrate the differences, which actually are numerous and difficult to predict.

How Vietnamese are like Texans!

This is my 8th year of living in Hoi An. I must say that the life here suits me and every year seems better than the previous. I’m Australian, but I’m married to one of those beautiful and charming Vietnamese girls, and by that marriage I have an extended Vietnamese family, so I guess it’s no surprise that I’ve come to notice and learn a few aspects of Vietnamese life and culture – at least from a Hoi An perspective that is. People are pretty much people wherever you go, but the Vietnamese have a very strong and unique culture, and they have their own way of thinking and going about things, which can be both delightful and sometimes infuriating (just as I imagine Vietnamese must think of us Aussies!)

Some years ago I was having lunch, and Duc the owner of Mango Rooms and Mango Mango restaurants came by and joined me for a drink. Duc was born in Vietnam and as a youngster was smuggled out on a boat. He spent some weeks in the belly of a boat with dozens of other Vietnamese and ended up at a refugee camp in Malaysia. He was sponsored by a Mexican family in Texas and grew

41 up there, so now you know some of the historical and cultural context behind his unique and delicious cuisine. Anyhow, during this discussion over a drink, Duc told me he was reading a book about a Vietnamese person travelling around Texas, when he said, “You know, Vietnamese are a lot like Texans.” I must point out that by making such an unpredictable statement, Duc had gained 100% of my attention. “You’re kidding,” I blurted, mouth wide open like those Aussie friends. “Oh yeah – they’re similar – gotta tell the biggest story, gotta build the biggest house, gotta drive the biggest car. Both Vietnamese and Texans are like that.” It sounds like an April Fool’s joke, but the longer I live in Hoi An, the easier life is if I remember that Vietnamese are like Texans; or at least some Texan stereotype, and that concept has come in handy on many occasions when dealing with day-to-day interactions.

How the Vietnamese are like the Irish I’ve spent a great portion of the past 2 years researching and collating my family history. Back in 2006 when Mung and I were married, my sister Judith travelled to Hoi An for the wedding. We visited Mung’s family in their little shack, which was the family home in those days. The first words Judith spoke were “Our great-grandparents lived in a house like this”. And she was right. It’s only been in the last 20 years that Vietnam has emerged from an agricultural and fishing subsistence based society, to a modern, urban, monetarised one. In the mid 1800s, at the time of my great-greatgrandfather Patrick, Ireland was an agricultural nation, populated by eight million persons who were among the poorest people in the Western world. Only about a quarter of the population could read and write. A British survey in 1835 found half of the rural families in Ireland were living in single-room, windowless mud cabins that didn't have chimneys. Coming from Irish Catholic stock, all of my forbears had large families. My own parents had eight children and I am the youngest. Modern wisdom advocates small families and a family with two children is pretty much the norm nowadays, but from my own experience I have many fond memories of growing up in a poor, but happy family with many brothers, sisters, nieces and nephews. I recall Christmas dinner at my parents’ house during the 1970s which would often be shared by forty or more family members. I can’t imagine a happier childhood than my own, and you know what? We didn’t feel we were poor as everyone else

in the district was the same. I certainly miss those days, and would argue that modern life whilst economically comfortable, is socially anaemic by comparison. Living in Hoi An with a community of Vietnamese together with a fair peppering of expats, I am more reminded of my own childhood and family life, than any visit to some modern suburban family in Australia. Life in Hoi An is family and community oriented – of an evening you’ll see many locals sitting outside their shops and talking with neighbours on the street, and kids playing games or riding bikes. And actually life in Hoi An must be quite like the 19th century life in Cork for my great-great-grandfather Patrick, in that he lived in a small house with a business on the ground floor. He sold corn whereas we sell jewellery. Patrick attended school, church, had relatives nearby and married a girl he met – all within a few short blocks from where he lived. Likewise most days I never leave Hoi An old town, we live above our store and I walk only a short distance to find everything I need, and my short journeys are frequently punctuated with friendly greetings from the local Vietnamese and expats I see every day. It’s a community, where everyone knows everyone, life is good, and most neighbours are friendly, helpful and cooperative. Whenever I travel, my presence is missed, and locals are always quick to ask where I’ve been. That truly sad case of the poor elderly woman who died and laid undiscovered for 8 years in Surry Hills, Sydney, in her home would never, even happen in Hoi An.

43 room for another person. With so much food and too much beer and far too many friendly, happy individuals filling my glass and wanting to toast with a ‘Mot, Hai, Bar,Yo!” Or a comment that sounds like ‘champon-cham’ which means 100%, meaning they want you to ‘scull’ the whole glass. Vietnamese at family gatherings drink like Irishmen.

I’m no historian, so forgive the simplicity of my views, but in researching Irish history and the suffering of the Irish people in the mid 1800s and now living in Vietnam, it’s hard not to draw comparisons. In Ireland at that time the famine took over a million lives as did the American War in Vietnam. The Irish were poor battlers – farmers mainly, struggling to deal with a natural disaster and the powerful and callous forces of the English, whereas the Vietnamese, also predominantly farmers and fishermen, struggled against the French, Japanese and Americans for over a century. The Japanese during WW2 burned crops and later the Americans sprayed Agent Orange, causing food shortages and starvation for many Vietnamese. During the second potato famine the Irish watched with anger as boatloads of Irish-grown oats and grain departed their shores for shipment to England. Food riots erupted in ports such as Youghal near Cork where peasants tried unsuccessfully to confiscate a boatload of oats. As the Famine worsened, the British continually sent in more troops. "Would to God the Government would send us food instead of soldiers," a starving inhabitant of County Mayo lamented. Consequently I find it easy to empathise with the Vietnamese, who suffered and endured colonial powers, wars and struggles. My Irish blood has a penchant for the underdog, despises injustice, and relishes stories of triumph over hardship. My great-grandfather Thomas was a boat person, and I believe boat people grasp life with fervour and passion. Irish hospitality is world renowned, and there’s nothing more inviting than an Irish Pub. Likewise the Vietnamese are hospitable people, I can’t say how many wedding invitations I receive each year, and at Vietnamese gatherings they’re never stingy when it comes to the guest list and there’s always

My parents loved music and my father would often sing to us when we were small. We even had our own ‘Mellifont’ family song – which was based on the ‘Harrigan’ song, which featured in some old Jimmy Durante movie. One of the most delightful memories I have of dating my wife Mung, was picking her up of an evening to go for coffee, and she’d sit on the back of the bike and sing. I’ve found that just as my father would sing to us, or as we’d have family sing-a-longs, the Vietnamese love singing too. I’m not really talking about Karaoke, which I personally find difficult to endure, but at family gatherings I’ve seen older generation Vietnamese sing beautiful folk songs, they sing them even unaccompanied by musical instruments whilst the others listen with delight, and watching and listening they often clap or smile at moments where the lyrics of the song are striking, amusing or keenly remembered after being long forgotten. As Vietnam boldly goes where Western countries have been before; 21st century living, with luxury housing, small families, material wealth, and all the problems that go with that lifestyle, I wonder how soon it will be before they look around and lament the loss of a simple life. Personally I hope the simple life will exist in Hoi An for a long time to come.

an Australian Phil Mellifont is an Phu and i An and is wellery at 82 Tr who lives in Ho ner of Lotus Je ow g, un M s M m .co married to sjewellery-hoian visit: www.lotu 53A Le Loi Sts,

License To Ride:

Rules of the Road in ‘Nam Amy Morison

Before reading this guide to Vietnam’s road rules, please answer the following question: You are approaching the traffic light of a busy intersection during peak hour on a bicycle and the light has changed from green to yellow. How do you proceed? a) Slow down and stop b) Speed up– you’ve got enough time to cycle through quickly c) Proceed only if turning right, as you will merge into the flow of oncoming traffic anyway

1) The safest means of driving a manual car is to keep it in second gear until reaching 40km per hour when it is then appropriate to slip directly into fifth gear. Gears one, two and three are obsolete. Once fifth gear has been achieved, there is no need to change gears further, doing so would put the passengers at great risk of calamity, especially when one is turning a corner. 2) If a passenger asks you a question whilst driving, stop immediately – do not under any circumstances continue to drive, especially if you are on the main highway. • Vans, buses and lorries are the spaceships of the road. They are to be revered. They also have a special horn that sounds similar to the melody in Close Encounters of a Third Kind – that is not a coincidence. • Helmets are only necessary on public holidays. Do not use them on children –studies have proven they increase the incidence of brain damage. • When driving or riding a motorbike at night always use the high beam option; others on the road will respect you for it. Otherwise best not to use lights at all – dim lights cause confusion about possible ghosts or spectres on the road.

If your answer to the above was a) b) or c) then you are clearly not ready for the roads of ‘Nam. You better de-buckle and read on.

• Taxi cabs are for foreigners, Hanoians and spendthrifts only. It is not respectful – regardless of your inebriated state – to take a taxi if you have a motorbike with a perfectly functioning horn and high beam lighting at your disposal.

Standard regulations for vehicle usage in Vietnam

Vietnamese Horn Translations

d) Continue straight on and at a relaxed pace, the traffic will move around you

• Riding a bicycle should almost always be a group activity. Bikes are built for conversation and transporting a younger sibling on the back. Riding abreast – in rows of at least three or four people – makes it easier for other vehicles to navigate the road. Single file cycling causes confusion and accidents. If you must ride alone, keep to the centre of the road.

1. Short, single beep – “Hi, I’m here!” 2. Two short beeps (like roadrunner) – “Hey hotpants, would you like to go for a coffee?” 3. Long, continuous beep – “Quick, move, my bottom is about to explode. Bad crab!”

• The only thing you really must master on a motorbike is its horn. Lights and brakes are optional but a horn is your chief means of communication. In fact, it’s illegal to ride a motorcycle in Vietnam if the horn is not functioning. **Please see below translations of Vietnamese horn language.

4. Continuous short beeps – “I’m male, young, bored and unemployed. Would you like to make sexy with me?”

• If driving a car, a different set of qualifications is necessary beyond that of a license. One must be male, possess elongated finger nails and have the ability to drown out the groaning sounds of a vehicle when it is in too high or low a gear. Importantly:

Disclaimer: If you believe any of the above then you are severely deluded. Or very sane. Either way, the above is not real reflection of actual Vietnamese road rules – which of course exist and are respected throughout the country.

While Hoi An is renowned for its arts and crafts, the explosion of tourism over the last decade has also seen a rise in stores selling items almost identical from one place to the next. Finding a store that sells unique handmade items of local design and creation is not easy. Lotus Jewellery is one such establishment – it literally is a gem of a store where customers are met with a treasure trove of fine, locally-made, hand-crafted jewellery and unique pieces collected from across Asia. Founded and owned by Ms NguyễnThị Mẫn (call her Ms Mung), Lotus Jewellery is located beside the Museum of Trade Ceramics at 82 Tran Phu street in the old quarter. Using only pure silver and genuine Asian jewels, freshwater pearls and shells, the collections are varied but mostly draw on ethnic or natural inspirations. While Ms Mung is meticulous about the design and crafting of each piece, the atmosphere at the shop is relaxed and inviting. For customers, it is often a refreshing experience to walk into one of the Lotus shops and not have to worry about haggling or negotiating on price. The prices are fixed and fair. Also, the brand is a recognized and trusted one, known for its consistency in providing high quality products. Pop into her ‘jewel’ of a store during your stay – it is by far the most beautiful jewellery shop in all of Hoi An.

www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com

Two locations: 82 Tran Phu & 53A Le Loi Hoi An, Vietnam - Tel: +84 0510 3917 889

Son Tra Peninsula

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Man Thai Fishing Village

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Central Market Nguyen Thai Hoc

Sea

IEN

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Tran Hung Dao

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NG B

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9 1

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White Lotus (Project Indochina) Le Bon

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Travel Agencies

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every day

10hrs-21hrs30 SIMPLE WEARABLES, ACCESSORIES, HOMEWARE & ART

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Japanese Tomb

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Church

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Tan An Market

Japanese Tomb

Tra Que Vegetable Planting Village

La Plage

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Soul Kitchen Le Banyan Hai Ka

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RED BRIDGE Cooking School – offers both half day and deluxe day tours with market walk, Tra Que organic village visit, boat trip & hands-on-cooking class. Restaurant – modern Vietnamese cuisine set on the beautiful Thu Bon River. Functions – tailored packages for weddings, groups and incentives. Villa – luxurious accommodation for 7 guests including open living and dining area, library, gym, private gardens, and swimming pool. Find out more www.visithoian.com Thon 4, Cam Thanh, Hoi An, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3933222, Email: info@visithoian.com

1. Cua Dai Hotel 2. Green Shoots School 3. Dingo Deli 4. GODA Restaurant

5 6 Essence of health

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Golf

Weekend Getaway:

Our Danang Beach Resort ‘Golf Trip’ Grace and Tony from HCMC

It was Friday afternoon and we were

eagerly awaiting our flight from Ho Chi Minh airport to Danang. We had heard so much about Danang Golf Club and the awards they had won that we just had to make the trip to see for ourselves. Only an hour flight away it was easier than getting to some courses we normally play on the weekends here in the city. 6pm: Arrival: We arrived to the Danang Beach Resort to stay in a beautiful two bedroom villa with its own pool right on the deck and a view of the 17th hole at Danang Golf Club. We strolled up to the White Caps restaurant to receive our welcome drink on the beach to relax, unwind and enjoy the sunset and rolling waves. It’s hard to believe I only finished work a few hours ago in Ho Chi Minh City. After retreating to the poolside restaurant we enjoyed a three course meal of international standards in possibly the best atmosphere we’ve experienced in Vietnam yet. 7am: Golf Day: The day we had been waiting for so long had arrived, our first game at the Danang Golf Club. After a beautiful buffet breakfast, our caddies were waiting for us at our Villa in a golf cart to bring us to the club. After only what seemed like a minute’s drive through beautiful natural settings we arrived at the Clubhouse…and what a clubhouse! Danang Golf Club truly lived up to its reputation as the best course in Vietnam. Rolling sand dunes broken by undulating greens and manicured fairways and superb putting surfaces, this course is breathtaking. Each tee shot was a picture opportunity but none more so than the 16th Par 3 signature hole. As you finish the 15th green and drive your cart up to the 16th tee ground you are abruptly met with one of golf’s most beautiful views. What seems perfectly positioned behind your view of the green are the famous Cham Islands on the horizon whilst in the foreground are the

crashing waves onto the pristine white sandy beach. What an amazing hole! What is unique about this course above others in Danang is that three of the holes play on the beach side of the coastal road utilizing the property to enhance the golfer’s view of this amazing shoreline. Whilst playing the 17th hole we managed to locate our Villa just of the left side of the fairway, it’s so nice to stay on the golf course rather than arranging and invariable waiting for taxis or shuttles. Our caddies for the day were fantastic, always with an enthusiastic smile and ready to offer help for my game at any time. I must say, probably the best caddies we’ve ever had in a game of golf in Vietnam. 12:00: Lunch: After our game we enjoyed a beautiful meal in the clubhouse and even got to meet the chef who offered some of his favorite local delights to taste right at our table. That afternoon we arranged the Danang Beach Resort shuttle to bring us to Hoi An for some evening shopping and a special romantic dinner for two. Walking along the pedestrian streets of the ancient Hoi An village you could be fooled for being in Rome with quaint market stall shop fronts, galleries and tucked away restaurants, you could stroll along these streets for hours. Day 2: 6:30am: My husband and I woke early to prepare for our second game of golf. We decided to take a walk along the beach to begin our day, wow, what a great decision. Walking along the beach we felt as though we were the only two people on earth, the waves were calm, the air clean and crisp and there was beach as far as the eye could see. Yet again we were just taken back by the golf course design and conditions, and now I agree with most of my friends that it’s the best in Vietnam and maybe all of Asia. 1pm Villa Time: As our flight was late afternoon we decided to head back to our Villa and relax in the private deck pool with a nice bottle of wine whilst enjoying watching other golfers play the course before checking out. My husband and I left completely refreshed from our stay at The Ocean Villas and in awe of the Danang Golf Club ‘Dunes Course’. We have found a weekend getaway that is just perfect. Well done Danang! For more information see: www.dananggolfclub.com

Golf

Golfing as a Beginner at Monty Neil Fraser

Fore! As I line up to take my first swing under the

watchful eye of Taylor Murphy, my nerves get the better of me and my ball sails away to the right after a wicked slice. He sure has his work cut out here. Let me introduce Taylor Murphy, Montgomerie Links’ PGA instructor – a true professional in every sense of the word and fortunately for me, a very patient fellow. I will never confess to being a great golfer, however, I am a fond lover of the kitsch fashion, and a keen amateur who takes great satisfaction when I can actually hit the ball in a straight line. Taylor’s “Golf For Beginners” class takes place on the first Sunday of every month at the Montgomerie Links Driving Range (and for those reading this in gloomy weather, rest assured, the driving range is covered so you can still go for a hit when it’s raining). The class costs a very reasonable 210,000VND which includes a breakfast buffet, club hire, unlimited balls and most importantly, tuition and tips from an actual professional. The session starts at 8am, with a breakfast served at the Links Café offering both Western and Vietnamese dishes, fresh fruit, tea and coffee. After a hearty feed, we set ourselves up at the immaculate driving range with the other budding golfers, an eclectic mix of tourists, locals, expats and fashion disasters. Taylor made sure he made time for everyone, and with his expert tuition I was hitting the ball just past the 200 metre mark. Some times in a straight line. Aside from just hammering the ball with a driver as far as I could, the driving range is set out to test a variety of skills. I was also able to hone my short game, chipping onto the

greens and typically I would not leave until I had chipped a ball into one of the nearby nets designed to test your patience. If you are lucky, there is an unofficial target practice session – when the armoured ball-collecting tractor does the rounds! All the staff at the driving range were excellent, making sure everyone had a full set of clubs on arrival and that nobody ran out of balls. Both Taylor and Hai, the Vietnamese coach, were working their way through the budding golfers, helping where needed and watching patiently as their pupils put into practice any new pointers. A slight improvement can bring to the smile to the face of any golfer and a great sense of satisfaction. A wise man once said that there are no bad shots in golf, just shots and good shots. I really did walk away, with a swing in my step. While Golf For Beginners is a great class it falls only on the first Sunday of the month and between 8-10am. For those of you who are not early risers or aren’t in town at that time, there are two other rather brilliant options for you to try and test you skills on the range: • Skills Night every Tuesday from 6-8pm for 260,000VND where you also receive a pitcher of beer, unlimited balls, full club hire and essential tips from Taylor or Hai. • Daily Happy Hour from 4-6pm everyday for 100,000VND you get 100 balls and a pitcher of beer! Club hire is 50,000VND per club – go with a bunch of friends and share the clubs!

Even better, those both staying in either Hoi An and Da Nang, you can take advantage of the free shuttle bus services – both from central parts of either town. For more information call 0510 3 941 942, email reservations@ montgomerielinks.com or visit www.montgomerielinks.com

Accommodation

The Ocean Villas:

A Perfect Getaway Amy Morison

Positioned on a prime stretch of coast

halfway between Hoi An and Da Nang, The Ocean Villas exemplify a luxury beach lifestyle that both their name and reputation suggest. The privately enclosed villas provide the perfect platform for a complete getaway – whether that be for a family, a couple or a group of friends. With access to a pristine and beautifully maintained beach, Greg Norman designed golf course, huge open lawn and garden spaces, a sizable pool, tennis courts, spa, restaurant and bar, the villas encapsulate that “home away from home” concept but at a superlative level. The term ‘villa’ itself tends towards the definition of a holiday home – and The Ocean Villas are that and more – they are opulent abodes built into the surrounds of a resort. At first glance, the villas have a slight semblance to that of an affluent gated community in the US – with their manicured lawns and modular veneer, one might think they have a Stepford-look. However, the moment you enter an individual villa any preconceived ideas you may have had will melt away – not only is the layout and interior design impressive, but every possible detail in terms of facility and function has been thought of so that you find yourself not only in a space that is luxurious but exceedingly comfortable. Each villa exudes coastal relaxation. In the two bedroom villa in which I recently had the pleasure to stay in, the downstairs section had an open layout with the kitchen, dining and living areas combined and facing an outdoor patio with private pool. Floor to ceiling glass doors bordered the ground floor, allowing for plenty of light to shine in (if wanted – easily privatized by thick curtains if not) and also they could all be opened, allowing for a fresh natural breeze to breathe through the entire villa. On

the back deck, a four-seated lounge area and private pool beckoned for cocktails – as did the two sun beds on the lawn facing the lagoon. Inside, elegant modern designs – using light tans and white tones – were complemented by seamless, wireless technology, including wifi, internet TV, DVD, stereo system and iPod dock. The kitchen was host to more appliances, cooking utensils, pots and pans than my own house (and I’ve lived in Hoi An for 4 years) and came with a gargantuan fridge and freezer with an inbuilt ice dispensing machine (that was a novelty in itself). Moving upstairs, both bedrooms came with an impressive ensuite with bathtub and had their own TV (also connected to internet TV, so you get more than your average satellite TV channels). However, the main bedroom was simply stunning – I had my own private balcony, King sized bed, couch settee and absolute dream bathroom. Taking centre stage was the voluminous bathtub with all its ultra-tech jet functions. I was in pure unadulterated bath bliss. For me personally, The Ocean Villas are now at the top of my list to recommend to friends and family coming to Hoi An – I would recommend 3 nights in Hoi An, then 3 nights in The Ocean Villas to just fully relax and unwind in your own private paradise. For friends coming from the city it makes for a perfect getaway. At the time of print, The Ocean Villas had a promotion: stay two nights and get the third night free. When considering the quality of the villas and facilities, the value is exceptional (7,515,000VND per night for a 2 bedroom villa for a maximum 4 people). They also have ‘Stay & Play’ golf packages and ‘Romantic’ packages at fantastic prices. The Ocean Villas at Danang Beach Resort Tel.+84 511 3967 094 Email: reservations@theoceanvillas.com.vn Web: www.theoceanvillas.com.vn

Accommodation

LISTING

Ratings: $ = USD $10-20, $$ = 20-60, $$$ = $60-100, $$$$ = $100 and above Cua Dai Hotel Located on the road between the old town and the beach this resort is great value for money with a beautiful garden setting and modern amenities. Free wireless, pool and modern design make for a convenient stay. 544 Cua Dai St. 0510 3862231 www.hotelcuadai-hoian.com info@cuadai-hoian.com $$

Life Heritage Resort This classic resort evokes the colonial splendour of a bygone era. Located on a quiet stretch of the Thu Bon river, the 94 room resort is iconic – and for good reason. Recently renovated rooms, bespoke spa treatments and unmatched restaurant and bar facilities all create an unforgettable experience.. 1 Pham Hong Thai St. 0510 3914 555 www.life-resorts.com $$$$

Fusion Maia Resort A resort by definition is a place to get away; a sanctuary for the well-being. When you combine this concept with an all-inclusive spa, then it transcends into something far more brilliant: enter Fusion Maia. All guests have access to the spa facility as many times as they want as part of their accommodation package. Each of the 87 villas has its own pool and private enclosure, offering guests the option to relax entirely in their own domain, or embrace the beachside view or spa facility. +84 (0) 511 3967 999 www.fusion-resorts.com $$$$

The Ocean Villas Positioned on a prime stretch of coast halfway between Hoi An and Da Nang, The Ocean Villas exemplify a luxury beach lifestyle that both their name and reputation suggest. With access to a pristine and beautifully maintained beach, Greg Norman designed golf course, huge open lawn and garden spaces, a sizable pool, tennis courts, spa, restaurant and bar, the villas encapsulate that “home away from home” concept but at a superlative level. Tel.+84 511 3967 094 www.theoceanvillas.com.vn $$$$

Frangipani Villa (Hoa Su) Situated on the outskirts of Hoi An in the tranquil village of Cam Thanh, Frangipani is a perfect countryside retreat. Beautifully appointed villas, lovely pool and friendly host Ky Ky ensure a great stay. Hamlet No 5, Cam Thanh Ward, Hoi An. Tel:+ 84 510 3933 933 www.villahoasu.com $$-$$$ Ha An Hotel A local favourite, the Ha An Hotel has a long-earned reputation for friendly service, boutique rooms and pleasant garden and water features. Located just near to Life Resort you are in walking distance to the market and old quarter. 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An. +84 (0) 510 386 3126 www.haanhotel.com $$ Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa The Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa offers a wide selection of room types from standard rooms to suites, villas and condominium accommodation. All rooms have private balconies, rain shower, bath tubs, Flat Screen TVs, high speed wireless internet access and sweeping views of the East Sea or Marble Mountains behind. +84 511 398 1234. http://danang.regency.hyatt.com

The Villa @ Red Bridge Situated in the same grounds as the famous Red Bridge Cooking School and Restaurant, The Villa @ Red Bridge is designed with an Asian ambiance and consists of three master bedrooms, a living and dining area, fully-equipped kitchen, library and fitness room spread across two levels of 250m2. Guests benefit from all the facilities that Red Bridge has on offer: a private chef to cater all meals, swimming pool, riverside (including boat trips), restaurant and barbecue areas. Other modern features such as WIFI, flat screen TV and DVD player are found within. Thon 4, Cam Thanh. 0510 3933 222 - 0905 452 092. Email: info@visithoian.com $$$$ Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort This local treasure offers understated luxury mixed with nostalgic architecture and a generous helping of warm Asian hospitality. Located on the beach but facing the river delta, this is a classic hotel that promises great facilities, service and a unique experience. Their dining facilities are peerless, even for those staying outside of the hotel we recommend the restaurant for breakfast or dinner. Also be sure to check out the hotel's vintage motorbikes, sidecar and shuttle bus. Cua Dai Road, Hoi An. Tel: (0510) 3927040 http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$$

BEST GOLF COURSE IN VIETNAM 2012 USA GOLF DIGEST

DANANG GOLF CLUB - VIETNAM Son Tra – Dien Ngoc Coastal Street, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist, Danang City, Vietnam Tel: +84 (0) 511 3958 111 Fax: +84 (0) 511 3958 112 Email: reservations@dananggolfclub.com Website: www.dananggolfclub.com

Activities

It is indeed that time of year – rainy season Singin’ In The Rain:

Activities for Wet Season

– when the town gets downright drenched and the cold kicks in. Locals bundle up accordingly; some bearing an uncanny semblance to the ‘Michelin’ man, and the mould on one’s walls grows so thick you can spend many a night dreaming of stinky cheese. While for those of us who live here it’s an accepted and natural part of the season cycle, it may seem like a bit of a bummer for holidaymakers.. But don’t despair! Hoi An is surprisingly novel during the wetter months (in fact you’d be lucky if it floods, as you can explore the old town by boat!) with plenty of unique cultural experiences that aren’t necessarily weather-dependent.

Amy Morison

• Café Culture: Don’t forget you’re in the heart of Vietnam’s most vibrant of café cultures. Embrace it! Whether it’s a proper Italian espresso or a local filtered coffee you’re craving, Hoi An has plenty of cool cafés to chill out and catch up on your reading. See our Dining section listings for ideas. Looking for a decent book with your bevvy? Ask Randy’s Book X-change on Cam Nam island (0936 089 483). • Cooking Classes: Hoi An has a plethora of cooking classes to suit all types, from gourmands to beginners. Ms Vy’s Morning Glory Cooking Classes (the original), Red Bridge (wonderful riverside ambiance), Dao Tien (decent one-on-one time with their head chef) and Green Bamboo (small classes, intimate family house setting) are among our personal favourites. See activities and dining listings for more options! • Driving Range: The greens may be wet but it doesn’t mean you can’t swing away at either the Montgomerie Links or Danang Golf Club driving ranges. Both are covered and offer great value promotions. • Handicraft Workshops: Learn some of the local handicraft trades through workshops or tours including Lifestart Foundation (a half day tour includes an art and lantern-making class and provides an insight into the important work they do for underprivileged families) and Reaching Out (attend their workshop to see talented disabled artisans create various handicrafts). See our Activities listings.

• Movies: Venture to Da Nang to the Megastar cinema complex to see the latest cinema screenings in English. Big C shopping complex, Da Nang. • Shopping: Hoi An is a mecca for shopping. With new prêt-a-porter boutiques as well as a gazillion tailors and shoe shops to choose from, you can easily spend hours replenishing your wardrobe. See our shopping section for gift ideas for the festive season. • Spa: There are loads of spa/massage options in town to distract you from poor weather. See our health and wellness section for an overview. • Surfing: The weather may not be conventional beach weather but October to February is the prime time for surfing in Hoi An – in fact it’s one of the few places in Southeast Asia where you can get a proper-sized wave that’s not a tsunami. Dale, a native from Sydney’s Bondi Beach, offers lessons at reasonable rates (0120 3976 102). • Ten Pin Bowling: Get all Big Lebowsky at Da Nang’s Co-op Mart Ten Pin Bowling centre. The Co-op also has a KFC! Nothing like beer, bowling and some dirty bird to satisfy the senses on a rainy eve. Bowling costs about 30,000VND per game. Co-op Mart, 478 Dien Bien Phu St Da Nang. • Yoga with Stephanie: Stretch out your limbs in the comfortable indoors with instructor Stephanie – she does private bookings as well as regular classes (016 8874 1406).

LISTING

Activities Dale’s Surfing Lessons Get surf lessons from a Bondi beach natives. Dale’s easygoing and patient nature make him a great teacher. Catch some waves with him at Cua Dai beach. 29 Cua Dai Rd. +84 (0) 120 397 6102 Danang Golf Club Danang Golf Club comprises two courses of 36 holes, the first of which – The Dunes – is already complete. Designed by Greg Norman, the DGC has a stunning layout with backdrops of the East Sea and Marble Mountains. It also sports a number of facilities including a driving range and top of the range practice facility (such as swing studios with video analysis), café and clubhouse with private dining room, member’s terrace, restaurant and lounge. Tel: +84 511 3958 111 Email: info@dananggolfclub.com Web: www.dananggolfclub.com.vn Dao Tien Cooking Class By far one of the best cooking classes in town, this restaurant is owned and managed by Dao ThiTien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. Chef Viet’s classes are comprehensive and more intimate than the better known cooking classes in town. You will get one-on-one tips and learn classics such as Hoi An money bags and spring rolls. His easygoing style and attentive nature will mean you’re likely to try the dishes at home. 21 PhanBoiChau St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3622 100 Email: reservation@daotienhoian.net Web: www.daotienhoian.net Hai Café Cooking Class From the same famed owners of Red Bridge, the Hai Café offer an evening cooking class to Hoi An visitors. Learn local favourites in the cooler temperature of the evening, with a garden courtyard as a backdrop. Classes include eating the delicious creations afterwards. 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3862 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com

Heaven & Earth This bicycle tour takes visitors to a part of Hoi An that is never seen by tourists. Explore the true countryside and discover the charms of the rural village folk. The tour leaders are friendly and their knowledge vast – they offer a truly unique experience, with half day, full day and overnight tours. 57 Ngo Quyen St Tel: +84 122 9527 365 Web: www.vietnam-bicycle.com Hoi An Photo Tour Find the best photographic opportunities Hoi An has to offer. Etienne Bossot will take you off the beaten track and upclose and personal with the locals. See the cultural, countryside of Hoi An. Both sunrise and sunset tours are available. Etienne will provide a photo workshop and help you get the right angles and settings for your shots. Bookings essential. Tel: +84 905 671 898 Web: www.hoianphototour.com Green Bamboo Cooking School For a real one-on-one introduction to Vietnamese cuisine, Green Bamboo is the best in town. Van’s expertise, English and hospitable nature make her the perfect host. You cook in her own home kitchen and enjoy your homemade lunch afterwards – family style with no rush. Maximum group size is 8 per class people it’s a very reasonable 600,000VND, including all transport, market tour, class, meal and refreshment. Check TripAdvisor to see the fabulous reviews Van has received from previous customers. Tel: +84 (0) 905 815 600 Email: van@greenbamboo-hoian.com Lifestart Foundation Tour The half day tour includes the opportunity to make a Hoi An lantern, a one-on-one dialogue with Lifestart Foundation workshop members and a traditional painting class. At the end of your experience you’ll have one small Hoi An lantern and your hand painted notecard to take home and share with friends.

Tel: +84 510 241 555 / 241 556 Fax: +84 510 911 431 Email:gourmet@hoianhospitality.com morningglorycookingschool@gmail.com

All of the money raised goes towards helping local people in difficult situations become self-sufficient. 77 Phan Chau Trinh St Tel: +84 167 355 9447 Web: www.lifestartfoundation.org. Long Vy Lantern-Making Learn the ancient art of lantern making from Hoi An’s most experienced lantern maker! Mr Thoai is a 3rd generation lantern-craftsman and offers workshops (where you get to keep your own lantern) for just $3 per person! 6 Phan Chau Trinh St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3606 611 +84 (0)908 664 731 Email: longdenlongvy@gmail.com Web: www.hoianlantern.com.vn Montgomerie Links Golf Course Tee off on this Colin Montgomerie designed course, with beautiful sweeping views and mountainous surrounds. The challenging 18-hole course is complemented by a driving bay facility, clubhouse, café and pro shop. PGA lessons for beginner, kids and women are available. Web: www.montgomerielinks.com Morning Glory Cooking School The signature of the Morning Glory restaurant is its ‘street food’ selection and their cooking class will give you a proper introduction into local favourites as well as national cuisines. The classes are designed for those who truly want to grasp the culinary tastes of Vietnam and be able to mimic them on their return home. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An

Reaching Out Workshops Visit the differently-abled artisans who create the wonderful handicrafts, lacquerware, bedding, jewellery and ceramic plates and tea sets at Fair Trade Reaching Out. From Monday through to Saturday everyone is welcome to watch the artisans in action but Reaching Out also have specialized workshops for those wanting to learn a new craft. Please check at their shop or contact them for more information. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 168 Email: info@reachingoutvietnam.com Web: www.reachingoutvietnam.com Red Bridge Cooking School & Restaurant Red Bridge is famous for its cooking tours, and operates a half-day morning tour and a deluxe day tour throughout the year, as well as an evening class at their sister restaurant Hai Café. The Red Bridge Restaurant is romantically set on the Hoi An River outside the main part of town in a serene environment that is perfect for dining on your handmade meal. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and for dinner by request and guests get full use of the pool. Thon 4, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Tour Join Aussie Neville Dean – a pure street food fanatic – for a half day tour of Hoi An’s best street food vendor offerings. See the vendors up close and in action and then head back for the sampling of 30 or so dishes at the Family restaurant on Nguyen Thai Hoc St. A great introduction to authentic local cuisine. Tel: +84 905 382 783 +84 121 7621 693 Email: theteacher@tasteofhoian.com Web: www.tasteofhoian.com

The Lifestart Foundation is a grassroots, not-for-profit charity that helps disadvantaged Vietnamese people and their families to become self-sufficient. Founded in 2000 by Australian Karen Leonard and supported by a team of dedicated volunteers, the Foundation applies a holistic approach to helping those in need through proven working programs and initiatives which are designed to effect a generational change. Lifestart Foundation Tours are as enlightening as they are fun. The special half day tour experience will give you the opportunity to learn more about the important work of the foundation as well as enjoy traditional Vietnamese painting and lantern-making classes. There are many tours in Hoi An, but what makes this one DIFFERENT is that the Lifestart Foundation is a not for profit charity. Our tours give visitors the opportunity to meet local people from disadvantaged situations, many of whom have complex disabilities, and to engage in a respectful and considerate manner. You will receive a unique insight into their needs and learn how you can make a difference.

77 Phan Chau Trinh St T: +84(0)167 355 9447 www.lifestartfoundation.org.au

SPONSORED ARTICLE

Green Chili Spicing Up Hoi An

“We treat all our customers as old friends. We have a great menu of Tex Mex, Western, Mediterranean and Vietnamese classics, but are flexible to cater to a specific customer’s taste,” says Jackie. To match an eclectic and well-executed menu, Green Chili has an extensive cocktail and wine list. Top shelf and rare tequilas and mescals are also available. Their head chef Nando also offers Vietnamese cooking classes!

teaks and burgers off the grill. American and Tex Mex classics. Homemade pastas by a proper Italian-trained chef. Green Chili offers a variety of high-quality dishes to suit all kinds of palates. Founded and managed by husband and wife team Hanh and Jackie, the restaurant offers warm hospitality in addition to excellent home-style and gourmet cooking! Whether you’re seeking comfort food or an exquisite mesh of East and West, Green Chili has a menu to satisfy all appetites.

Green Chili - Ớt Xanh:

Dining

Hai Dao Restaurant:

A Pure Local Treat

If you are looking for a truly Vietnamese dining experience at local prices then you can’t go wrong at Hai Dao

Caroline Mills

If you are looking for a truly Vietnamese

dining experience at local prices then you can’t go wrong at Hai Dao, a cracking specialist restaurant that serves up my favourite version of banh xeo (savoury pancakes) in the whole of Hoi An. I’ve been dining here for months with a chosen few of my most trusted friends and have been blackmailed and begged into keeping Hai Dao our little secret, but I just can’t any longer...the delicious thit nuong – grilled pork on betel leaves, lightly sprinkled with sesame seeds; the saffron yellow crispy rice pancakes (banh xeo) and the heavenly plump prawn stuffed spring rolls scream out to be shared not just at the table but with you too! So I’m sorry guys, I’ve stopped sending people to the second best, it’s time we supported our local favourites with a little more than our private weekly chow down and make this place into the institution it deserves to be. First, about banh xeo. Made with a turmeric-coloured rice flour batter, these crispy pancakes are filled with a large river prawn and a mound of bean sprouts. They are served with rice paper (to roll them up) and a healthy amount of fresh herbs (including the pungent fish leaf). Originally from the South of Vietnam, the banh xeo at Hai Dao is quite different to its Southern counterpart – the pancakes are smaller, crispier and have more variety in flavour. They are also typically known as ‘winter food’ (considered ‘warming’ in the Vietnamese yin / yang food philosophy) although I happily eat them all year round.

At Hai Dao, the plates are piled high and fit for a king’s table: banh xeo, spring rolls, rice paper, dips, and grilled pork is served with a pair of scissors so you can ‘make your own rolls’. And the local La Rue beer complements all this fine fare perfectly! For those of us who know what they are doing when the food arrives, most often a bun fight ensues, and empty plates suddenly reappear full, dips are refilled and empty beer cans, greasy finger wipes and the hateful fish leaf herb are thrown to the floor with gay abandon. It’s absolute carnage – as all authentic Vietnamese restaurants should be! If however this is the first time you have eaten banh xeo, you might like to ask for a demonstration in food preparation. Remember the staff here cater almost completely to locals so English is short in supply, but a shout of “An Oi!” and a wave of your hands will get you a smiling lesson and probably a few laughs from surrounding diners. Don’t be shy! Each overflowing plate minus the herbs and dip comes in at a giveaway price of 25,000VND. As a guide we usually starve ourselves for a day, then stuff ourselves silly with a good few beers – and for a table of four incredibly satiated diners the bill has never gone beyond 450,000VND. The fish leaf, I’ll leave that up to you. Hai Dao 160 Ly Thai To Street 0510 3861 305 – 0905 315 450

Dining

Fusion Lounge’s Beautiful Bento Boxes

Le Bon Café:

A Delightful Taste of History Caroline Mills

Caroline Mills

I recently sampled the

latest addition to the Fusion Lounge menu, Bento boxes! And the experience made me remember how great my job is – fabulous food, decadent service and a perfect view of the old town – it really doesn’t get any better than this.

For those of you not familiar with the Bento Box concept, it is a traditional Japanese way of providing a healthy home cooked meal, usually consisting of rice, fish or meat and one or more pickled or cooked vegetables in a series of box-shaped containers. Fusion Lounge have adapted this practical lunch time takeaway and sprinkled it with their fine dining fairy dust, presenting Bento Box options for breakfast, lunch and dinner for 190,000VND++. There are set menus with a choice of traditional Japanese, Vietnamese, Around Asia, Natural Spa and Western. Or you can create your own, choosing items off any one of their existing menus. We tried a Western Breakfast Bento, with cereal, cold cuts, the most stunningly presented baker’s box (the pastries are out of this world), fruit salad, yoghurt and the piece de resistance – steak mignon with juicy mushrooms and Japanese peppercorn sauce. For Bento Box number two we chose a dish from every corner of Asia and were rewarded with the most delicious chicken in lime, a smooth chilled scallop soup, Chinese fried rice, a beef and orange salad worthy of writing home about (and I did), with pickled eggplant on the side. Next time we’ll have to tackle the desserts! The Bento boxes were such good value that I just didn’t want to leave, so I went upstairs and worked my way through Fusion Lounge’s other specialty menu of express spa treatments – which are currently on offer for just 150,000VND per treatment until December. Fusion Lounge: 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Islet (84) 0510 3911 700

Having opened the doors of Le Bon Café

in June this year, husband and wife team Vy and Huan have managed to create something that few restaurants in town have: a menu of unique specialty dishes that have been passed down through the generations of Huan’s Chinese family. These are dishes that you just won’t find anywhere else, prepared with pride, honour and most importantly, love. Le Bon’s menu is comprehensive (local specialties, Vietnamese, Western and vegetarian dishes) – you’d be hard-pressed not to be impressed by any of their dishes, however, I would personally recommend their special family menu. This includes dishes such as the delectable five spice cinnamon pork chops (120,000VND), lucky beef – which in my opinion is not just lucky, it’s incredible – mouthwatering, succulent cubed beef with bell peppers, onion and a secret family sauce served on a bed of crispy noodles, braised leg of duck with lotus seeds, their delicious clay pot pork and eggplant dish (110,000VND) and a own family variation of whole steamed fish (your choice of mackerel or snapper) piled high with vegetables in a ginger and oyster sauce (135,000VND). These recipes have been passed through the family, Chinese settlers who relocated to Hoi An in the seventeenth century maritime silk road boom and have not been messed with since, how’s that for a bit of history on a plate? If you are looking for a rewarding dining experience in beautiful surroundings then I highly recommend putting Le Bon on the top of your list. Go taste a bit of history. It’s what Hoi An is about after all. Le Bon Café 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3861 919 / 0918 452 302 www.lebonhoian.com

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Dining

Hoi An’s Culinary Centre:

Central Market! Caroline Mills

Hoi An’s street food is quite

often declared to be the finest in Vietnam – the food available is as culturally rich as the old world architecture, a diverse mix of traditional recipes influenced strongly by Hoi An’s past as one of the busiest trading ports in Southeast Asia. Centuries later and the culinary scene is still a lively and thriving one. The simple, yet exotic flavours of Vietnamese street food have become increasingly popular in the West with restaurants, cookery shows and recipe books showcasing only a small percentage of Vietnam’s more famous dishes. This makes a trip to Vietnam incomplete without at least once pulling up a plastic stool and joining the animated locals for a lovingly prepared pho! As a visitor from a western country where food hygiene and health and safety issues take precedence, locating a stall amongst the markets awash with fish entrails and polluted by motorbike fumes was previously a bit of a mental challenge. This was often your only option until now! Recognising the importance of preserving Hoi An’s street food culture, Hoi An cleaned up its act and provided a newly built and covered Central Food Market which opened this year. So now local consumers and inquisitive travelers can find their favourite street foods at the market but also be safe in the knowledge that they are prepared and served in hygienic surrounds. For the locals, street food makes up an average of almost half of their weekly meals as not only is it cheap, but it’s convenient. For foreigners, it’s more about having a culturally enriching experience. What’s encour-

aging about the Central Food Market is that it is more popular with Vietnamese than tourists, indicating the quality is high. The ladies (nine out of ten food vendors are women) serving up your cao lau, pho, mi quang and a huge array of other delicious home-cooked favourites, have all been trading in the Hoi An market for years, each stall specialising in a recipe passed down from generation to generation. This means that a cau lao from one stall will be slightly different from another, which gives you an excuse to dine in the Central market every day of the week! The atmosphere in the bustling food hall is good natured, with the ladies happily working together. Prices are fixed and advertised on boards at each stall. Most dishes are 20,000VND. We don’t advise you to try and bargain further on such fair and decent prices. With globalisation and urban development threatening the age old traditions of street food in developing countries like Vietnam, and it’s cultural and economic importance to the poorer, family industries – the vendors buy all their ingredients from local farmers and markets – preserving the local street food culture and traditions is far more complex than I ever believed possible. And if the best way to support them is by enjoying some of the wonderful food at their stalls than this is one bit of charitable work that I will never tire of.

Central Market Food Hall is located right in the center of the busy central market off Bach Dang Street, with the main entrance leading off Tran Phu.

Pho

Mi quang

Cao lau

Dining

If you haven’t dined at either the Morning Glory or Cargo Club restaurants in town then you haven’t had the full Hoi An experience – a visit to both or at least one of Ms Trinh Diem Vy’s establishments is a must-do on your itinerary when visiting this heritage town.

or those unfamiliar with Ms Vy, let me give you the short summary – she is a woman of firsts; a local legend; a pioneer – and more than anyone I know, the most passionate foodie and teacher you could come across in Vietnam. Ms Vy was the first restaurateur to cater to foreigners visiting Hoi An after the American War. Her first restaurant (which remains a local staple to this day) was the modest, family-style, Mermaid, where she also started her original – and now very successful – cooking classes. She then proceeded to open Cargo Club, which has both a patisserie and bakery and serves up international and Asian fare. Following which her latest restaurant of over 5 years is the Morning Glory Restaurant and Cooking School, which serves up Hoi An street food classics and other local and Vietnamese specialties in a gourmet dining atmosphere. Thanks to the efforts of Ms Vy, many of Hoi An’s unique recipes have stayed alive due to her unbridled passion to source them from older vendors (who had long gone out of business due to the rationing years post-1975) and recreate them. With the publishing of her book ‘Taste Vietnam’ they will now thankfully live for many generations to come. Leading into the wet and winter season in Hoi An, Ms Vy gave Live Hoi An readers some recommendations for dishes that can help alleviate or ward off sickness, especially cold and flu. You can sample all these dishes at either Morning Glory or Cargo Club – or if you want recipes to take home, then we strongly recommend purchasing the Taste Vietnam book (a wonderful overview of Vietnam’s gastronomic history including Ms Vy’s personal memoirs and recipes).

❖ Cumquat Tea This is particularly good for sore throats and colds, providing fast relief. The cumquat is a concentrated form of vitamin C and is served mixed with ginger, honey and salt at Morning Glory restaurant. It’s a perfect drink during winter (even if you aren’t sick) because of its high vitamin C content.

❖ Fish Congee This is Ms Vy’s favourite dish – regardless of the time of year or whether she is in good health. When people in Vietnam are sick they will often eat chao (congee or rice porridge) as it’s full of nutrition and is considered ying (warming) – it is therefore especially helpful if you have a fever or cold. It is the chicken soup of the East! At Morning Glory, Ms Vy serves it with mackerel fish, which gives it the extra protein and micromineral content to keep you healthy. Eat this every day for breakfast and you might stave off a cold all winter!

❖ Clams in Lemongrass Broth The yin of the clams along with the micromineral content are good for keeping cold and flu away – and also the chilli (yang) in the broth allows for a nice warming effect during winter. Ms Vy serves this classic Hoi An seafood dish at Morning Glory restaurant.

❖ Whole Fish Hotpot Another winter favourite, Ms Vy’s seafood hot pot includes a whole fish served with dill, mustard green leaves, herbs and noodles. It is a perfect dish for cold weather and the nutrition provided by the fish and herb combination will help keep colds and flu at bay. Ms Vy serves the hotpot at the Cargo Club. For more dishes such as a Hoi An Pho and a special Seaweed Fish Soup, visit Morning Glory Restaurant on 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St (or Cargo Club which is opposite). Ms Vy’s website is www.restaurant-hoian.com

Dining

Chef Son has been cooking since he was a boy, growing up in Som La in the Northwest of Vietnam which is home to some of the best restaurants in the country. He learnt the skills to serve up inspired dishes in his hometown before taking his passion to Ha Noi in 1999 where he trained at the five star Westlake Hotel ; which is now the Sofitel Plaza. Chef Son’s kitchen at Lantern Town is testimony to his experience and incredibly high standards – in fact he is happy for any diner to visit his kitchen to see for themselves, with or without an invitation.

Fish in Banana Leaf (serves 4)

Feature

Chef Son Lantern Town Restaurant Caroline Mills

Chef Son is one of the few chefs I have met who is not afraid to take a traditional dish, put his own spin on it and turn it into something spectacular. He proved this recently when I challenged to him to come up with a recipe for Live Hoi An readers Chef Son chose a dish that’s both simple and delicious, but also one of the most popular dishes served in family homes throughout Vietnam – Fish in banana leaf, which he describes as food for the local culture; a practical dish for everyday home life. While famous in Hoi An, it actually has many variations throughout the country – along the coast, the preference is towards fish from the sea. Chef Son is a great believer in quality, organic ingredients. He sources his vegetables from Da Lat and his herbs from Tra Que which are picked before the sun rises. He trusts only one market lady with his fish orders and never buys a fish unless it is line caught (net caught fish are stressed and the flesh is not tender) and he has personally examined it first. By the way, I’ve tried his Vietnamese sushi amazing!

❖ Ingredients

❖ Preparation

• 700g filleted white tuna or similar white fish cut into 1 inch cubes • 2 wood ear mushrooms sliced thinly • 5 spring onions bruised then chopped • A small handful of uncooked fine rice noodles • 3 turmeric leaves or one teaspoon of crushed turmeric root • 1 medium red chili chopped • 1 heaped spoon of crushed and chopped garlic • 1 pinch of each - salt, pepper and brown sugar • 1 teaspoon anchovy sauce • 2 tablespoons of turmeric oil (make your own with oil and turmeric powder) • 1 tablespoon of oyster sauce

Gently mix the ingredients above and separate into two portions, wrap each in three banana leaves (fold in to an envelope), wrap snugly in foil and leave it to marinade overnight. To cook on the BBQ first heat the coals and allow 10 minutes (5 mins for each side) then remove the foil and lightly charcoal the banana leaf to give it a smoky flavour. For slow oven cooking use 5-6 banana leaves and 1 layer of thick foil and cook on low for 30 mins. The mushrooms and glass noodles bind the ingredients and provide a crunchy texture, the turmeric colours and tenderizes giving the dish its character and the chili provides the yin (cool) and yang (heat). You can use a whole fish fillet, but when cubed it is better to absorb the marinade. Serve with steamed rice.

Dining

The Magic and Mystery of Ca Phe Sua Da Neville Dean

Nothing prepares you

for your first ca phe sua da – Vietnamese iced coffee. Walking along a suburban Ho Chi Minh City street after first arriving in Vietnam I came across a coffee stand displaying tins of condensed milk. I’ve enjoyed condensed milk since a child and it seemed quite natural to have it in the local coffee. The first shock came from the coffee – undrinkable! Next I stirred in the condensed milk – the sweetness sucked the fillings out of my teeth! Welcome to iced coffee Vietnamese style. At its simplest, ca phe sua da is made by mixing a Robusta blend coffee essence with about a quarter to a half as much sweetened condensed milk, stirred and poured over ice. An individual brewed version is made with boiling water poured over finely ground Vietnamese-grown dark roast coffee in a metal filter (cà phê phin) placed over a cup or glass. The coffee, thick and as black as crude oil, is allowed to slowly drip one drop at a time into a white condensed milk pool below. This striking juxtaposition of black and white doesn’t disappear until you remove the filter and blend with a spoon, resulting in an incredibly rich, smooth, and wonderfully sweet concoction. The first sip will reveal a tale of black and white, of bitter and sweet, of East and West in a tall, thin glass. This is the magic and mystery of ca phe sua da. Many people prefer this mixture served over a tall glass of ice known as ca phe sua da Saigon – no better way to enjoy an iced coffee on a hot day.

Vietnamese coffee is not for the faint hearted - much stronger than most Western styles coffee. If you’re a lover of strong coffee, you can try a ca phe den nong (or ca phe den da with ice) - black coffee devoid of any additives. You’ll really taste and feel the uniqueness of Vietnamese black coffee. Coffee was introduced into Vietnam by French colonists in the late 19th century and Vietnam quickly became a major exporter of coffee. Today Vietnam is the world’s leading exporter of coffee – recently surpassing Brazil. In the late 19th century, the French started growing coffee in selected regions of Vietnam. The French roasting method included adding corn oil instead of chicory in the processing. The unique Vietnamese roasted coffee bean flavor had been created. Vietnamese-Americans introduced the practice of adding chicory to coffee and many Americans today believe that all true Vietnamese coffee contains chicory. A “true" Vietnamese coffee does not contain chicory. Genuine Vietnamese coffee brands include Trung Nguyen, Indochine Coffee, Highlands Coffee, QCafe, or Phuc Long, all of which are located in Vietnam and offer coffee grown exclusively in the central highlands along the Annam Plateau that extends from the Da Lat region to Laos. Other than the Robusta variety grown in Buon Ma Thuot, there are several other varieties including Arabica, Chari (Excelsa), Catimor and some indigenous varieties of Arabica. Vietnamese coffee producers blend multiple varieties of beans for different flavor characteristics and balance. Vietnamese coffee provides the signature taste of ca phe sua da that has become part of the Vietnamese culture. Although it takes around five minutes for the drip brewing process, it is totally worth the wait. Waiting and enjoying this process is the main key and uniqueness of traditional Vietnamese coffee.

Neville Dean is the founder and guide for The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Food Tour –a culinary tour that explores Hoi An’s most famous dishes, from street food drinks, snacks and specialty meals. You can find out more at www.tasteofhoian.com

Dining

Al Fresco’s If you’re craving a decent Western meal after oodles of noodles in ‘Nam, then Al Fresco’s is the most consistent and reputable place in town. From steaks, to pizzas, pastas and the famous BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s have a menu to suit all tastes. Their Aussieminded hospitality and across-the-board high standards ensure you won’t be disappointed. They also have a free delivery service throughout Hoi An. See the website for a menu! 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi islet Tel: +84 510 3929 707 Email: alfrescoshoian@alfrescosgroup.com Web: www.alfrescosgroup.com $$ Banyan Enjoy a menu of tapas, pastas, mains and daily blackboard specials offered up by Julien at Banyan. He also has regular oyster and mussel promotions. Check our flyer to see their monthly events. The menu is seasonal, with an emphasis on warming foods during winter. Premium cocktails, wine and imported beers (Asahi, Guinness) as well as local and draught beers feature on the menu. They have a pool table, petanque field and both indoor and outside dining areas. The baked camembert in clay pot is an absolute must-try! The atmosphere is welcoming, with Banyan being one of the favourite hangouts for expats as well as visitors. Far left, An Bang beach, Tel: +84 935 100 337 Web: www.lebanyanbar.com $$-$$$ Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. If you want quiet, there is an upstairs area for dining, otherwise soak up the music and mingle downstairs. They offer a menu of mostly international and Vietnamese dishes – the pizzas and pastas are consistently good, as are all the local dishes. Check the blackboard daily specials for drink promotions. Bar manager Phong plays an excellent mix of Indie/Alternative/Britpop music, making this one of the coolest places to hangout (please don’t ask him to play Hip Hop). They also have a pool table. 51 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 599 Web: www.beforennow.com $$ Cargo One of Hoi An’s most established and consistent restaurants, this is Live Hoi An’s fa-

LISTING vourite place for breakfast, but the menu is suitable for all times of the day. Their Italian and local dishes are all first-rate and the patisserie ensures excellent desserts. Try their pizzas topped with fresh rocket! The restaurant has both street and river views. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 489 Email: cargoclub@hoianhospitality.com Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com $$ Dao Tien This top ranking Vietnamese restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. For reasonably-priced, superb Vietnamese dining Dao Tien is by far one of the best restaurants in town. Moreover, Chef Viet’s cooking classes are famous for good reason. Dao Tien is also socially-conscious –Ms Tien has a training school called “Better Living” that gives underprivileged kids culinary or service skills. 21 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3622 100 Email: reservation@daotienhoian.net Web: www.daotienhoian.net $$ Dingo Deli This deli-run café and retail business is the only one of its kind in Hoi An. Buy imported cold cut meats (such as hams, salamis), cheeses and other gourmet delights here. They have a modern, air conditioned indoor café and outdoors area with a new and wonderful ‘Adventure Playground’ for the kids with massive trampoline and flying fox. Wifi, Lavazza coffee, wines and imported beers make it a nice hangout spot. There are spare Macs for guest use, being one of other perks here – you can use skype to call home. The menu includes sandwiches, pastas, burgers, nachos, pies and more. 229 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An Tel: +84 906 552 824 Web: www.dingodeli.com $$ Dive Bar & Restaurant “A place where people come to meet people” is the catchphrase of this friendly bar and restaurant which is serviced by the same group who run the Cham Island Diving tours. Their menu is extensive, with great value BBQ sets as well as Mediterranean dishes. A live DJ plays most weekends, they have a pool table and a pleasant al fresco cocktail bar and garden out the back. 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 918 255 521 Email: chamislanddiving@gmail.com Web: www.chamislandiving.com $$

100 Fusion Lounge Operated by the Fusion Maia spa resort this restaurant/lounge has a perfect location facing the old quarter from the other side of the river. Accessible by car and well-regarded for their unique food and drinks menu, the Fusion Lounge also doesn’t do much harm to the wallet. Try the signature Asian Fusion Set Menu, which is three courses for only 220,000VND or their new Bento Boxes! They also have delicious fresh baked pastries, Lavazza coffee and fine teas. 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Tel +84 0510 393 0333 Web: www.fusionmaiadanang.com $$-$$$

Hai Café Bar & Grill This charming 19th century classic Chinese building has been renovated into a spacious restaurant serving both Vietnamese and International dishes. Their lovely garden courtyard serves up a delicious nightlybarbecue, and their versions of local classics are renowned – namely White Rose and Com Ga. Hai Cafe also offers evening cooking classes as part of its Red Bridge Cooking School. 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3863 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com $$

Green Chili Hoi An’s only Tex-Mex specializing restaurant with Chef Nando cooking up Southwestern classics such as Fajitas, Nachos, Quesadillas and Tacos. Grilled items such as steaks and ribs are also popular with guests, as are the lime grilled chicken with tequila and Chimichangas! They also have a very decent Vietnamese menu and innovative pasta dishes. Ask about their top shelf mescals and tequilas. 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3928 199 Email: info@greenchilihoian.com Web: www.greenchilihoian.com $$-$$$

Hai Dao Banh Xeo One of Hoi An’s best kept secrets (until now, lucky for you readers!), Hai Dao serve arguably the best banh xeo (crispy pancake) in town. Filled with river prawn and bean sprouts and served with fresh herbs, vegetables and dipping sauce, banh xeo is a perfect winter dish. They also serve thit nuong – grilled pork with sesame seeds and delicious fried spring rolls. Prices are exceptionally cheap. For a truly local dining experience, we highly recommend Hai Dao! 160 Ly Thai To St Tel: +84 (0) 510 3861 305 Mob: +84 (0) 905 315 450

Green House Restaurant The Hyatt’s everyday dining restaurant is in a stunning locale, and has been designed to completely suit the environs (floor to ceiling glass panels), earthy tones and Asiatic décor plus offers an excellent and reasonably priced menu of both Vietnamese and Western. Their minced prawn on sugar cane sticks are delicious as are the smoked salmon, grilled steak and oh so many more… Hyatt Regency, Da Nang Tel: + 84 511 398 1234 $$$ Green Mango Restaurant This is the third venue of chef/owner Hai who has garnered a well-deserved reputation for fine fusion dining that combines French cooking techniques with dishes inspired by local ingredients. His goat’s cheese cashew encrusted red grapes are amazing! As are all the dishes – recommended is the sea bass, lamb shank and white truffle and mushroom risotto. Hai has opulent taste so you’ll be dining in fine surrounds with a fabulous wine, cocktail and non-alcohol drinks menu and great table service. 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: +84 510 3929 918 Web: www.greenmango.vn $$$

Highway 4 A new comer to Hoi An’s dining scene, Highway 4 has transported its famed brand of gourmet and unusual Vietnamese dishes and it’s very own branded rice wine. This four-floored venue is the perfect place to sample the more unusual traditional dishes of Vietnam such as frogs, crocodile and snake head fish as well as some incredible dishes popular in other regions in Vietnam. 111 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 393.4567 Web: www.highway4.com $$ l’Annam, Victoria Resort Overlooking the sea, l'Annam Restaurant offers casual all day dining, international or local Vietnamese and Asian cuisine with freshly caught seafood specialties. They also arrange special romantic dinners on the beach which are catered for by the head chef. Don’t forget breakfast either which is by far the best deal in town for outside guests at only 300,000vnd net. Cua Dai Road, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3927 040 Email: hoian@victoriahotels.asia Web: www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$ La Plage Located on the far right of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach this sweet little open-air café does wonderful French-in-

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103 spired food, with blackboard specials offering up Leek Pie, Quiche Lorraine, Free Range Roasted Chicken as well as a menu of burgers, sandwiches and more. In the evening, Matty plays tunes that range from funk and soul to drum and bass! He loves imput from customers about which songs to play and will happily give over his laptop for you to select songs from youtube. Far right, An Bang beach Tel: +84 510 3928 244 Web: www.laplagehoian.com $-$$ Le Bon This restaurant serves up traditional Hoi An and Vietnamese specials. Drawing on centuries of family cooking and secret recipes, you can certainly grab a delicious bite of history here! The family menu includes dishes such as the delectable five spice cinnamon pork chops, lucky beef – mouthwatering, succulent cubed beef with bell peppers, onion and a secret family sauce served on a bed of crispy noodles – braised leg of duck with lotus seeds, and their delicious clay pot pork and eggplant dish. 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Tel: +84 (0) 510 3861 919 / (0) 918 452 302 www.lebonhoian.com Luna d’Autunno Their reputation preceded them from Ha Noi – with many saying Luna serve the best pizza in Vietnam. Live Hoi An would go as far as claiming it’s the best in the region. Their wood-fired traditional thin crust pizzas are incredible. They also serve a wide variety of authentic Italian dishes and a tiramisu to die for! Proper Italian espresso is also a given. Free delivery too! 6 Cam An (An Bang) beach Tel: +84 127 2840 053 Email: lunahoianbeach@gmail.com $$ Luong Gia This relatively new restaurant is owned by the same family that run the well-known Before & Now. Fantastic Vietnamese and Italian are their specialties and the ambiance is quite unique – both old relics and contemporary art feature in an inviting space. There is a romantic atmosphere which is appropriately matched with a large selection of wines. 34 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 899 Email: luonggia@beforennow.com $$ Mermaid This local institution offers a comprehensive Vietnamese menu with local dishes punctuating the selection. This is Ms Vy of Morning Glory’s fame’s very first restaurant set in a traditional old shop house which adds to the authentic atmosphere. Family-

style food, and efficient, friendly service make it one of the best restaurants in town. It is the ‘original’ family Vietnamese dining experience in Hoi An after all! 2 Tran Phu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3861 527 $$ Morning Glory Cooking School & Restaurant This restaurant is a must-visit venue for those wanting to experience the real street foods of Hoi An (without actually sitting on the street). Both traditional and newly inspired dishes are on the menu with healthy choices too. The vegetarian Cao Lau, Crispy Tofu peppermint salad, Chicken with Lime Leaves and Seaweed Fish Soup are but a few of our favourites. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 2241 555 Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com $$ Q Bar While more renowned for its funky lounge atmosphere and first class drinks, Q Bar also offers an Asian tapas and mains menu. Imbibe and nibble in an atmosphere that couldn’t get slicker. Gyoza, salads, chow mein, Thai and Vietnamese noodle dishes are all prepared to perfection and are by no means expensive. Q bar also has one of the best locations in the old quarter. 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St +84 (0) 510 391 964 $$-$$$ Red Bridge Restaurant & Cooking Class The cooking class at Red Bridge is more famous than for dining at the restaurant, however we see it is one of the most pleasant venues to eat in Hoi An. Being further down the river than the main throng of restaurants it offers tranquility as well as a fantastic menu. We recommend a late lunch followed by sparkling wine and a sunset boat ride back into the old town. Thon 4, Cam Thanh Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Web: www.visithoian.com $$-$$$ Sakura Restaurant & Cooking Class This restaurant is majestically located on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets with a stunning terrace balcony overlooking the river. A long-established restaurant, Sakura’s name may be misleading as the menu is gourmet Vietnamese, not Japanese. Sakura is a great venue to drink in atmosphere of Hoi An, offering a well-executed, comprehensive menu. 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 369 Email: sakurahoian@vnn.vn Web: www.hoiansakura.com $$-$$$

SON Hoi An This charming restaurant on the river has an interesting philosophy – slow food for a slow life. All their dishes are meticulously prepared using fresh, organic ingredients sourced from Tra Que herb garden and the market. Local specialties such as spring rolls, grilled fish and salads are beautifully prepared and taste unbelievably fresh! The setting is so relaxing, you could easily lounge here all day with a book drinking fresh juice or tea. 177 Cua Dai Rd Tel: +84 510 386 1172 / +84 989 501 400 Email: sonhoian@gmail.com Web: www.sonhoian.com $$ Soul Kitchen On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy the gourmet delights of Chef Mien whose culinary talents are fast becoming famous as some of the best in town. They have daily specials depending on the market produce and also do French-bistro style foods. Excellent value food, peerless ambiance (the view is spectacular and there are both dining tables or sofas to lounge on) and reasonable prices make this a must-try on your Hoi An trip. During winter Mien makes a mean beef bourguignon– a definite recommendation! Far left, An Bang beach Web: www.soul-kitchen.me $$-$$$ STREETS International This modern café offers an excellent menu of local classics and Western sandwiches – their Paninis are the best in town. Also, all the staff are trained under the Streets International program for underprivileged youth, and their English and hospitality skills are second to none. Open for both lunch and dinner, the meals at Streets are delicious and – as the slogan says, it is – ‘Good Food Helping Good Kids’. 17 Le Loi, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 948 Web: www.streetsinternational.org $$ Three Dragons Sports Bar and Restaurant An ideal riverside spot for those in need of a few home comforts, the menu at the Three Dragons is full of everything you could desire, from perfectly presented Vietnamese delicacies right through to the best complements for an afternoon of cheering on your team (they have Satelitestreamed sports playing live on their TVs). Think burgers, sandwiches such as roast meat baguettes and Sunday roasts. Hoi An specialities include the five spice duck, claypot pork and eggplant, superb fresh spring rolls and many more. Dine in the pub atmosphere at the front, or enjoy the peaceful

courtyard ambiance at the riverside, or their private tables upstairs. 51 Phan Boi Chau Street. Tel: +84 ()510 3914 742 Vetiver Focusing on the gastronomic traditions of Vietnam’s Central region is Vetiver, a new restaurant on the Cuadai Road featuring a simple menu of real Vietnamese dishes, finely prepared using gourmet, organic ingredients, including a few dishes you won’t find in any other restaurant in town. Prices start at a very reasonable 50,000vnd for a main course or 150,000vnd for a 4 dish set menu. The only restaurant in town serving up Hue’s delicious Hades Rice an absolute must try. 580 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 333 Web: www.thevetiver.com $$ Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang, DN Tel: +84 511 3843 373 Email: info@waterfrontdanang.com Web: www.waterfrontdanang.com $$-$$$ White Caps beach Club & Bistro, Ocean Villas The signature restaurant of the Ocean Villas resort, this beautiful venue offers both a stunning vista and incredible menu of local and Western culinary delights. Dine in a 5 star venue at 3 star prices. We highly recommend their Moroccan inspired Lamb as well as Hoi An classics such as the Cao Lau. Lovely staff will ensure the entire experience is nothing less than exceptional. Tel: +84 511 3967 094 Web: www.theoceanvillas.com.vn $$$ White Marble The first fully-fledged wine bar in Hoi An, White Marble has a prime location on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi St. Their great wine selection is complemented by an eclectic tapas menu. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town. 98 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 862 Web: www.visithoian.com/whitemarble $$-$$$

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Shopping

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‘Tis the Season:

Gift shopping in Hoi An Amy Morison

CLOTHING

As the festive season falls upon us soon, what better place to buy a unique gift for a loved one than in Hoi An? Over the last few years, the town has seen an emergence of various retail outlets offering something different from the run-of-the-mill souvenir and tailor shops. Whether it be clothes, jewellery, home wares, or handmade handicrafts – Hoi An is a shopper’s Mecca. So in light of the holiday season, I’ve highlighted some options for you to consider for browsing. All recommendations have been tried and are trusted. Happy shopping!

100% cotton. The signature asymmetric t-shirt dress makes for easy day wear or can be accessorized for a night out on the town. Meanwhile, swimwear includes tanktinis, bandeau bikinis and bold one pieces. All outfits are available in a wide range of sizes to suit Western shape, are light and easy to roll or fold for packing. 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, www.hotchilifashion.com

❖ avAna: If you’re looking for some elegant ‘wearable art’ – with ranges that suit all shapes and sizes – be sure check out the chic designs of avAna, an anagram of the names of founders/ designers Anna and Ava. This is a boutique that sells original accessories, clothes, handbags and shoes. They both draw inspiration from their surrounds or experiences – including previous themed collections such as ‘chic fisherman’, ‘plantation wear’, and ‘Arabian nights’. Importantly, they work with local weavers, tailors and craftspeople to create their collections. 57 Le Loi St, www.hoiandesign.com ❖ Bohemian Luxe: This new arrival to Hoi An mainly focuses on ‘Bridal Couture’ – where they produce bespoke bridal wear that diverges from traditional gowns – however, the brand Bohemian Luxe also produces exceptional resort wear and accessories. All clothing is printed on fine silk or cotton and incorporate local handiwork in terms of beading, embroidery and crochet. To complement the collection they have one-off jewellery pieces using materials unique to the Quang Nam province. ❖ Hot Chili: Expat husband and wife team John and Jennie Walsh (also founders of Sao Viet T-Shirt Printers) developed their own original readymade resort and swimming wear under the brand Hot Chili. They screen print their own tropical inspired designs using non-solvent based inks on

❖ Metiseko: Chic eco-fashion is the cornerstone of the Metiseko brand – and they are the first company to have obtained the internationally recognized Organic Exchange Certificate. One of Hoi An’s success stories, this beautiful shop located near the Japanese bridge is one of the few in town that stick to a strong environmental ethic, producing original, high quality home and clothing lines. Recent designs by Florence are inspired by her travels through Vietnam. Indigenous patterns and lines feature prominently on 100% cottons and silks. 3 Chau Thuong Van St, 0510 3929 278 www. metiseko.com ❖ Papaya T-Shirts: The ever-evolving, all original, cheeky T-shirt designs of Papaya are well recognized. Their designs have also been copied many times over including the brilliant iPho T-shirt (unfortunately this is unavoidable in Vietnam). But if you want the original and best, it will always be Papaya. Using 100% high quality cottons, they offer something for everyone – with a bit of local humour involved in the design which makes for a uniquely Vietnamese purchase. Papaya also donate a percentage of their proceeds to a children’s foundation. Hoi An locations: 1 Nguyen Minh Khai St (monkey side of Japanese bridge), 627 Hai Bai Trung St, 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St and 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St. www.papaya-tshirt.com

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HANDICRAFTS ❖ Lifestart Foundation: The Lifestart Foundation is a grassroots, notfor-profit charity that helps disadvantaged Vietnamese people and their families to become self sufficient. Besides their tour, you can also purchase handmade items from their workshop which provides a sustainable income to it's members. All profit goes directly to the makers and the Lifestart Foundation guarantees that all donations will go towards the funding of philanthropic projects in Vietnam. Some very cute gift ideas include the knitted egg hats and sock creatures (fantastic for the kids), button rings (also very unique and nifty!) as well as hand-printed cards, T-shirts, beaded jewellery, silk cushions, lanterns and denim bags. 77 Phan Chau Trinh St, http://www. lifestartfoundation.org.au ❖ Reaching Out: This Fair Trade outlet (the only one in Hoi An) offers an array of fantastic, hand-crafted gifts from jewellery to lacquerware, bed linen, home décor and ceramics. Drawing from traditional Vietnamese craftsmanship and fine materials, these are products that are not only unique but are made to last. They are also handmade by disabled or, as they prefer to put it “differently-abled” adults. You are welcome to explore the workshop at the back of the store and meet the artisans. Reaching Out also guarantee that for every purchase made, 5% of the profits will go back into the training of new or existing staff, in accordance with the Fair Trade principles by which they abide. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, www.reachingoutvietnam.com

JEWELLERY ❖ Lotus Jewellery: There are a throng of jewellery shops in Hoi An these days. But for unbeatable quality, stunning designs and fixed, fair prices and high quality silver, handcrafted jewellery, I would highly recom-

mend Lotus. Husband and wife team Mung and Phil offer friendly service and often travel throughout the region to find the best gemstones, opals or pearls for their designs. Their silversmith is possibly the most experienced in all of Quang Nam province, so you are guaranteed fine craftsmanship. Every piece is crafted with special attention and care. They can also custom-make designs. Lotus has two locations: 82 Tran Phu St and 53A Le Loi St. www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com ❖ Original Chain of Life: Danish jewellery brand Original Chain of Life are experiencing great success both in Hoi An and abroad. The unique concept of their handcrafted jewellery is to make every piece personal by you choosing the wording to be hand engraved on to it. You decide what yours will say, whether that be a meaningful message, personal values, favorite quotes, names or the Ten Commandments – whatever special message you desire, making it entirely your own unique piece. These make for wonderful gifts, as they are unique and personal. And they don't require much room in your luggage. Original Chain of Life only use 925 Sterling Silver and first class Italian leather for their jewellery. Each piece is carefully hand engraved to your liking, and can be delivered within 24 hours. Exclusively sold and on display in avAna, 57 Le Loi St. www.originalchainoflife.com

MISCELLANEOUS ❖ Jade Rabbit Emporium: A treasure chest, a trove, a trader's laden ship: filled with curios and cures, remedies and novelties. Jade Rabbit’s shelves are filled with a cornucopia of the weird and wonderful and are open just in time for Christmas. Elemental forces – Heaven, Earth, Sea and Moon – inform their range of homewares. Fragrant teas from the northern highlands. Match it with your favourite cup – create the perfect gift. Naturally harvested sea salt, blended with spices, seeds and zest add a touch of culinary magic to your festive fare. Pestles and mortars, chopping boards, giant chopsticks and so much more. 9 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, www.jaderabbitemporium.com

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LISTING

Shopping ART/CRAFTS Lifestart Foundation Shop Buy original gifts from the Lifestart Foundation and help fund their philanthropic work. The foundation is a non-profit, grassroots organization aimed at helping underprivileged people become selfsufficient. Besides their art/lantern making workshops, they also sell unique gifts including handmade woollen sock toys, button rings and many other locally-inspired handicrafts. 77 Phan Chau Trinh St Tel: +84(0)167 355 9447 Web: www.lifestartfoundation.org.au Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & Workshop Beautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of the various and unique items on sale here – and at fixed prices. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. You are welcome to check out their interactive workshop at the back. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 168 Email: info@reachingoutvietnam.com Web: www.reachingoutvietnam.com Trong Art Gallery Tucked away on the outskirts of the old town lies Trong Art - a gem of a gallery displaying original oil and lacquer paintings by Vietnamese contemporary artists. Highly recommended if you are looking for something unique rather than the usual mass produced art available elsewhere in town. 692 Hai Ba Trung St, Tel: +84 (0)989 391486 Email: tronganartist@gmail.com Web: hwww.tronganhgallery.com FASHION avAna A unique boutique which sells original accessories, clothes, shoes, interior wares and children’s wear by expat duo Anna and Ava. Importantly, the pair draw on local materials for their inspiration and work with Hoi An craftspeople to make their designs. If you want to support local artisans and see some inspiring tropical chic designs, be sure to check out their shop. 57 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 611 Email: info@hoian-design.com Web: www.hoian-design.com Hot Chili If you’re staying in one of Hoi An’s luxury resorts, you’ll probably be familiar with the

Hot Chili brand. Groovy designs on comfortable, high quality cotton fabrics are the cornerstone of this unique brand set up by Australian couple John and Jennie. Come to their shop to see more designs, including their signature dress-length t-shirts, swimming costumes and more. They also own the renowned Sao Viet printing company so clients looking to custom-make and print t-shirts in bulk can also contact them. 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel +84 510 3929 553 Web:http://hotchilifashion.com Web: www.vietnamtshirtprinter.com Metiseko Chic indigenous designs on gorgeous fabrics – 100% organic cottons and silks – and tasteful home décor are the essence of this new shop near to the Japanese bridge. Combining fashion know-how with an environmentally sustainable ethos, Metiseko is one of Hoi An’s coolest boutiques. 3 ChauThuong Van St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 278 Web: www.metiseko.com Papaya T-Shirts Funky t-shirt designs made with 100% cotton! The original t-shirt design brand in Vietnam. Buy from here and profits help street children in HCMC and underprivileged families in Hoi An. The shirts are high in quality and make for great gifts. Many of designer Thierry’s ideas have been copied (such as the famous iPho t-shirt) but we encourage you to buy from the original source! 1 Nguyen Minh Khai St, Hoi An (monkey side of the Japanese bridge) 627 Hai Bai Trung St 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Web: www.papaya-tshirt.com GOURMET GROCERS AP Mart Located just near the busy intersection on Hai Ba Trung st (connecting to Ly Tuong Kiet St) this yellow-coloured minimart offers a fabulous range of cheeses, fresh Dalat milk, a variety of cereals (such as weetabix, Australian rolled oats, Alpine muesli) as well as Lay’s and Dorito’s imported crisps and a plethora of cooking sauces and condiments (from HP sauce to baked beans, to risotto rice and French paté – they have an impressive range). They also stock Coopers beer, Gatorade and Schweppes flavours. Prices are fixed. If they don’t have it, this family-run business will get it in for you! Open from 7am-9:30pm. 501 Hai Ba Trung St Tel: +84 (0) 510 221 2186 / +84 (0) 982 503 508 Email: votrang84@gmail.com

Dingo Deli Gordon and Michele have done us proud. Not only did they open the first proper deli ever to be seen in these here parts but they serve genuine Lavazza coffee too. Their hams and cured meats are shaved to request (they have a proper slicing machine) as are international cheeses. Baking ingredients, pulses, cereals, gourmet teas, Kettle chips, posh dried fruits like cranberry … you name it, they undoubtedly have it. And don’t forget the fresh Dalat milk! Open 8am-8pm. 227 Cua Dai Rd JEWELLERY Lotus Jewellery Beautiful handmade jewellery of silver and various local materials including beautiful stones sourced from abroad. Every design in this shop is original and there are some excellent locally-inspired pieces which make for great keepsakes to take home. Only pure silver and high quality items are sold here and prices are reasonable and fixed. 82 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 53A Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 664 Web: www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com Original Chain Of Life Choose your own message and have it hand-engraved on these unique leather bracelets or necklaces by Danish brand Original Chain of Life. Using imported 925 silver and Italian leather, customers can then have their values, quotes, vows or other inspirational messages engraved. Every piece is hand engraved in Hoi An – one silversmith takes a full day to finish one item. Fine quality, original jewellery, that make for great gifts. Display at avAna 57Le Loi St Tel: +84 (0) 908 043 100 Web: www.originalchainoflife.com

SHOES Shoe Shop 09 Expect great quality custom-made shoes from this long-time family shoemaking business. They have readymade designs or can tailor to your own specific designs. All 100% leather, quality made soles. MsTuong and her team actually specialise in leather products too, so besides shoes you can find a fantastic range of handbags, purses and stylish leather jackets. 65 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3863573 Email: tuong2002@hotmail.com TAILORS Lana Allure Lana Allure looks no different from any other tailor in town, but you only need to step inside to see that this is a serious tailor shop. The staff are highly skilled, they know their trade front to back and are not afraid to challenge design ideas and unusually, to recommend more time to be invested into more complex items. They even offer a 2 year guarantee on their tailoring. 90 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 559 Yaly Couture Yaly Couture is renowned for making highly exquisite, fashionable clothes, made to measure. One of the few tailors who have exhibited their craftsmanship on the catwalk, you can be guaranteed luxurious and quality products from this company. Yaly are famous in Vietnam and with good reason – high quality materials, craftsmanship and service are exceptional. They also have a great range of custom-made leather shoes, jackets and handbags – see their new shop on Tran Hung Dao St. 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 358 Nguyen DuyHieu St, Hoi An 22 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An (Yaly Leather) Tel: +84 510 3910474 / 3861119 / 3914 995 Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Web: www.yalycouture.com

a pure nature spa • A clean, safe, calming and nurturing environment.

60 mins facial treatment

460.000

• International day spa standard facility.

65 mins full body massage

380.000

40 mins scrub treatment

330.000

• Five private double treatment rooms for each

50 mins wrap treatment

350.000

clients receiving a personal service.

40 mins hot paraffin treatment

290.000

• Professional, licensed estheticians and massage

25 mins spa manicure or pedicure

165.000

• Private showering and changing facilities with robes, towels, slippers and lockers provided.

therapists. • Exclusive use of professional spa products by Azial and Rendez-Vous, 100% natural and organic ingredients. • OPI international nail products used for manicure

Happy hour : 65 minutes full body massage:

10am to 2pm - get 10% discount.

• Spa saving packages are available. For further

Nail care deluxe & facial treatment:

1pm to 6pm - get 10% discount.

information please visit our website.

Facial treatment & body scrub or wrap: 6pm to 9pm - get 15% discount.

and pedicures.

Certificate of Excellence 2011 tripadvisor

A: 90 Ba Trieu - Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 933 999 - M: 0916.126.126

www.palmarosaspa.com

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Health and Wellness

LISTING

A cut above:

Keeping healthy on the inside Amy Morison

As we enter the winter period, it becomes

a lot less appealing to venture out of doors – rain spells and cold snaps are not necessarily conducive to exploring. But whilst some locals enter a period of hibernation, many more just simply carry on with their lives, including staying active and healthy. If you’re on holiday during the dreary weather, please see our activities section for recommendations, or, why not take advantage Hoi An’s dynamic spa scene? With a variety of options (from express massage venues to fully-fledged resort facilities) there are spas to suit every traveller and their budget. Another alternative is to take advantage of some of the resort’s which offer day passes or monthly gym packages – whereby you can use their health and fitness centre facilities and often get discounts on food and beverage to boot! Please see our health and wellness listings for recommendations on spas, salons and other opportunities to keep you healthy on the inside during the wintry weather.

❖ Massage and Spa Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Nicely fitted spa in a good location.Excellent treatments at a reasonable cost. Highly recommended are the body massage, including the aromatherapy healing and popular ‘Imperial Jade’ treatment which includes hot stone therapy. Moreover, the ‘Together Forever’ package is a refreshing treatment that has a reviving effect on the skin. It involves a pomelo and lemongrass bath and steam, massage with local herbs and a collagen facial treatment. 49 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3917 972 Email: alyspahoian@yahoo.com Essence Of Health Tucked away amongst peaceful rice paddies on the outskirts of Hoi An town lies Essence of Health, a unique, holistic retreat incorporating daily Yoga, Tai Chi, Meditation ,Qi Gong and martial arts classes, alongside a treatment menu based around traditional Chinese medicine, Tuina and acupuncture. +84 (0) 510 650 6616 +84 (0) 949 925 860 info@essenceofhealth.vn www.essenceofhealth.vn Fusion Lounge Sister to the decadent Fusion Maia Resort, this modern lounge retains the chic design of the resort, yet provides a relaxed environment from which to indulge in. Delicious coffee, pastries and to top it all they have a spa upstairs. We highly recommend the express services including head

sk any expat where they go for a haircut in town and invariably the reply will be “Tuan boy“. This small, independent salon has built up a solid business in the heritage town, largely due to the skills and personality of its owner - who, unsurprisingly, is called Tuan.

and neck and foot massages. 34 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi. Tel: +84 (0)510 3911700 Life Spa Life Resort’s well-deserved reputation as a health and wellness sanctuary could not be better encapsulated than in their Hoi An spa. Treat yourself to Life Spa’s signature Vietnamese Synchrony FourHands Massage (VND1,500,000). Double the relaxation, as two therapists massage your aching muscles into blissful submission for 80 minutes. For those with a little more time on your hands, we recommend Life Spa’s unique Journey to the Far East (VND1,970,000), which includes a foot bath, massage (which employs seven customized techniques of both Eastern and Western massage traditions), a body scrub and body wrap. 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3914 555 Web: www.life-resorts.com Palmarosa Spa Hoi An’s first legitimate day spa. Palmarosa offers professional, modern facilities and services at very reasonable prices. They use the esteemed Azial, Rendez-vous and O.P.I brands for the spa and beauty products. They also have proper shower/ changing rooms with complimentary locker, towel, robe and steam and sauna facilities. The atmosphere and calming ambiance is one of a resort day spa yet their prices are similar to those of a small independent spa. Massage treatments of 75 minutes average at 350,000VND. 90 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An

Tuan has been in the hairdressing business for 18 years and has an impressive number of qualifications under his belt. In 2006 he added a Tony & Guy certification to his credentials and is quite famous in Central Vietnam having worked on various celebrities including the Queen of Austria and Miss Universe. “I love to learn new styles – I follow the international styles and seasons and go overseas regularly to update my techniques. I’m always interested in developing the business by making it as professional as possible, and to an international standard,“ says Tuan. Tuan only uses international products such as L’Oreal and Schwarzkopf. He offers a number of salon services besides hair styling and colouring, including manicures, pedicures, hair extensions and perm, etc. Everyone who asks for a shampoo and hair cut always gets a fabulous massage too!

10%

Show advert to receive discount 148 Nguyen Truong To St Tel: 0905 960 365- 0905 381 597

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Health and Wellness Tel: +84 (0)510 3933 999 Web: www.palmarosaspa.com Tamarind Spa, Victoria Beach Resort The Tamarind Spa is rated highly in Hoi An, if not all of Vietnam. They offer a plethora of spa and massages treatments such as aromatherapy, Thai, Swedish, Hot Stone, Indian, traditional (plus more treatments), among other salon service. For peerless service, treatment and an unmatched ambience, it’s worth splashing out and treating yourself to an experience here. Also, Victoria resort offer monthly memberships and day passes to use their facilities. Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3927 040 Web: http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com VIE Spa, Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa The premise of VIE – which means Life – is to offer treatments that restore the balance of “am-duong”, the Vietnamese phrase for mind-body connection. VIE spa treatments and products take inspiration from their native surrounds and fall into three categories: Mountain Air, Expansive Sea and Pure Earth. The spa uses internationally famous facial products of June Jacobs in addition to their own customized products that comprise of locally-sourced herbs and essences. It is open every day and offers various treatments. Massages start at 1,999,000VND and packages from 3,150,000VND. The Hyatt also has day passes that you can buy to use their facilities such as the main pool and a free shuttle bus from Hoi An. Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa Tel: +84 511 398 1234 Web: http://danang.regency.hyatt.com

❖ Hair Salon Tuan Boy Hair Salon Tuan has cut hair all over Asia and won awards for his expert hair colouring. He has styled the hair of the Miss Universe candidates, cut the Queen of Austria’s hair and been the expert consultant for various actors filming in the heritage town of Hoi An. He is by far the expat favourite in town and also offers a decent hair shampoo/conditioning massage and cut prices. He is Tony & Guy certified, uses only international products and he has a price list printed out which are fixed and reasonable. 148 Nguyen Truong To St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)905 960 365 / (0)905 381 597

❖ Medical Family Medical Practice Da Nang For anything serious or if you want a general check-up in an international standard clinic, this is the most renowned medical facility in the Central Coast region. Family Medical Practice offers 24 hour emergency care as well as emergency evacuation. They are also are aligned with numerous international health insurance providers and provide direct billing to customers. 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Tel: (0511) 3582-699/700 Emergency: 09 13 917 303 Web: www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Nurse Practitioner Michal Noonan is a New Zealand Registered Nurse Practitioner practicing in Hoi An. She can attend to primary care issues and paediatrics, providing treatment and management for reasonably priced consultations in either your home or hotel. Tel: +84 (0)1638353064 Women’s Hospital Da Nang’s new women’s hospital has recently been updated and offers exceptional care for women from pre to post natal and general care. English speaking doctors, up to date facilities and equipment and very reasonable prices. 26C Chu Van An, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)511.2222059 Web: www.womenshospital.vn Marie Stopes Clinic The Marie Stopes clinic is an internationally respected organisation specialising in women’s health and family planning issues. The staff here are superb and have a real empathy for their patients. This clinic comes highly recommended by expats and tourists alike. There opening hours are Mon-Fri 07.30 – 12.00 and 13.00 -19.30 with a reduced service at weekends. 47 Le Dinh Ly, Vinh Trung Ward, Da Nang Tel: +84 58 3817158 Veterinarian, Dr Hung Dr Hung is an English speaking Vet who comes highly recommended. As well as providing all the usual inoculations and emergency care for your pet, Dr Hung is registered to microchip and handle the certificate to take your pet on domestic and international flights. 44/11 Hai Ho St, Hai Chau District, Da Nang. Tel: +84 (0)905295336

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Family Choose your own adventure:

Dingo Deli’s new playground!

119 Hoi An and found – in the beginning – it difficult to socialize their children into the community; as the local kids spend a lot of time studying. Dingo Deli instantly became a gathering place for the local expats living in Hoi An and Michele and Gordon started a home schooling environment for their children and other families. The adventure playground has become an additional feature and community hub for all to enjoy. As Mikayla, 10 years old says of the playground, "I love bouncing on the trampoline and playing tag with the kids in the neighborhood is heaps of fun, it's a language we all understand!"

Emma Bolton

The newly built,

‘Adventure Playground’ in Dingo Deli's sizable backyard has proven not only a hit with the expat kids, but a fun and safe haven for many of the local Vietnamese children in the area who have never had a playground before. Not only do all the kids (of a variety of ages) have access to the coolest play area in town, but what a wonderful platform for cultural exchange between holidaying families and locallybased youngsters! It’s exactly the type of community result that owners Michele and Gordon had hoped when they opened Dingo Deli almost 2 years ago. The playground boasts a flying fox (zip line), a 14ft in-ground trampoline (with some serious bounce!), forts, a tower and suspended bridge, many types of swings, basketball hoops and sand pits. Much of the playground is shaded and there are two huts that provide comfortable lounging for parents. The night lighting is enjoyed by many families with young children who want to escape the structured restaurant scene and have a relaxing dinner with familiar western foods and a space for their kids to explore and use up their energy before bed! Husband and wife team Michele and Gordon arrived in Hoi An with their own children 3 years ago and opened Dingo Deli Restaurant & Shop in January 2011. They were the first English speaking foreign family to settle in

Dingo Deli: 229 Cua Dai Rd 0510 653 5459 Open daily from 8am-9pm.

LISTING Art Classes with Hannah – 3 Dragons Sundays at 4pm. Add: 51 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: 0120 883 2152 Camp Hyatt - Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa Camp Hyatt is a perfect place for kids to hang out, with entertainment all year round including a rock climbing wall, surfing and swimming lessons. Babysitting service available. Web: www.hyatt.com Add: Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Da Nang Beach - Tel: 0511 398 1234 Dingo Deli Playground & Activities – Dingo Deli Dingo Deli have recently refurbished their ‘Taj Mahal’ playground for the kids whilst you can enjoy sipping an iced Lavazza Coffee! They also offer educational programmes for children. Web: www.dingodeli.com Add: 229 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An Tel: 0510 653 5459 Golf at Montgomerie Links The whole family can have fun playing golf at Montgomerie Links, check their website for special promotions– in some cases kids may play for free! Web: www.montgomerielinks.com Tel: +84 (510) 3941 942 Green Shoots Hoi An’s first registered international kin-

dergarten. Fully qualified foreign teachers. Daily shuttle bus from Danang. Upcoming programmes for older children. Tel: 0510 3924 854 or 012 0355 3171 Email: s.ryan@greenshootseducation.org Sunrise Kid’s Club – Sunrise Resort A getaway of fun in the sun awaits your little ones at The Kids Club. Children aged 3-12 are invited to a daily schedule of games and activities! Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Web: www.sunrisehoian.vn/kids/the-kidsclub Tel: 0510 393 7777 Surf Lessons with Dale Dale’s paddle board and surf lessons are open to beginner and intermediate levels. Tel: 0120 3976 102 Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Victoria offer a wide range of recreational activities for all ages including beach sports, boat excursions and a professional child care centre with plenty of activities for the kids. Web: www.victoriahotels.asia Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3927 040 Yoga with Stephanie Stephanie offers Hatha and Yin Yoga classes for students of all ages, levels of fitness and flexibility. Web: www.hoianyoga.com Tel: 0168 874 1406

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Property

121 As Alex explains, contrary to what people might think, they are often going to get a better rate through using his service than trying to deal directly with a landlord. “When owners contact us or we contact them, we explain to them that we charge a percentage for any transactions. The price that the tenant pays is not affected by this in any shape or form in fact it’s sometimes the opposite. When we visit houses in Hoi An we of course are able to evaluate the price; very often landlords are too ambitious on the rate so we always advise them to decrease the price in order to get a tenant,” he said.

Nhà Tôi

Making Hoi An into a home:

Amy Morison

When Alex Hartley moved to Vietnam in 2008 he felt an instant affinity with Hoi An – and it quickly became his home. Originally on an internship at the Nam Hai resort, Alex finished his tenure to start a restaurant in the old town. It was during this time – when discussing with customers who were new to Hoi An and thinking of moving here, as well as long-time expats – that he realized there was a demand for a real estate company that would focus on rental housing more than on property sales.

Along with his wife Ly, Alex opened Nhà Tôi – which translates to “my home” or “my house” in Vietnamese – earlier this year, specializing in rental housing as well as vacation rentals and property sales in the Hoi An area. In terms of the rental service Alex and Ly provide, this includes house viewings – after already communicating with clients, they shows houses that fit the criteria in terms of budget, style of property, location and more. They then negotiate all the terms and conditions of the contract between the landlord and tenant. Once both parties agree to a contract, they organize the paperwork (make their own contract) and have each party sign this before taking it to an official notary office. Once clients have moved into their house, they then provide a free management service that is valid for the period of the contract so that the tenant has minimal contact with the owner.

Moreover, it’s the management service that provides the real difference. Alex and Ly understand the many frustrations that can transpire between tenants and landlords and which are often exacerbated by language misunderstandings or miscommunication – they takes on the managerial responsibilities so that tenants don’t have to stress. With their shared expertise and Ly’s native Vietnamese tongue, they can smooth out problems efficiently. One of the most common problems that Alex and Ly deal with is in the building structure. Alex explained: “Many landlords take short cuts in the construction of the house and in circumstances of extreme weather during the rainy season, it is not uncommon to deal with leaking in houses. We always put a considerable amount of pressure on the landlords to make sure they pay for the repair of their houses. Another common issue that we often encounter are plumbing problems, namely with water pumps which often break. Usually to fix the pipes is straight forward. But I couldn't count how many times I have been rung up and told, "Hi Alex, we don't have any running water in the house!" Alex and Ly also provide full services for property sales and business leases. They provide legal assistance and contracts, taking every precaution to make sure their client is fully protected. All in all, as Alex says, “Hoi An is a peaceful town and a beautiful place to live. Amazing beach at your doorstep, rice paddies along the countryside and of course the old town of Hoi An. The weather is good for most of the year, except for a few months.” And with Nhà Tôi to help you find a house, a transition to Hoi An is just all the more appealing isn’t it? Contact details: www.hoianhouse.com (view properties online) Alex Hartley: 012 6277 4421, info@hoianhouse.com

122

Property Central Vietnam Realty:

Housing in Danang Amy Morison

Danang’s rapid development has been the subject of news for a while now, and those who have lived in the Central Vietnam area (particularly in Danang) have noticed significant changes in the last few years. This is one of the reasons why Piotr Frieske has decided to pursue a career in realty – to be at the pulse of property rentals and sales in the city. The other reasons are more personal. Having moved here 2 years ago from Warsaw, Poland, Piotr and his now fiancé Angie fell in love with Danang – the general atmosphere of the town and its people. Piotr explained his new business venture in an interview with Live Hoi An. • What makes living in Danang special? Living in Danang offers the perfect balance between a beach town and big city. The phrase which sold me on coming here was: "Big city with a small town feel" and it's exactly that! On one hand you can live on a quiet street just 5 minutes walk from the beach, and on the other you have access to supermarkets with Western goods, cinema, Western and local dining. It’s conveniently located within easy driving distance to Hoi An, Hue and we have an international airport. • Can you tell us a bit about your business – what types of accommodation do you organize? I have actually been in the realty business for the past year but under the name InDanang Rentals. I’ve now started a new separate company called CVR, which stands for Central Vietnam Realty. We are a professional real estate services provider, with a wide range of apartments, houses, villas and offices for rent. We can also provide property sales services and can help arrange vacation rentals for people who prefer that option to a typical hotel stay. We currently have agents speaking English, Vietnamese, Spanish and Polish and will also add German, French, Japanese and Korean to our repertoire soon!

123 • What kind of services do you provide for people? We provide wide range of services, ranging from residential and commercial leases and sales, through to research, consulting and investment in real estate. Our service is typically free for tenants, and includes post-lease services which means that unlike many other local "agents" we are happy to help our customers with any problems they might encounter during the lease. • What are the benefits of a person choosing your service as opposed to going directly to a house owner? Time-saving is the first and most obvious one. We are constantly inspecting new properties and adding them to our website which people looking for a house can browse through. Once we learn about a client's requirements we tailor our services to them. By maintaining a good working relationship with the owners, and our knowledge of the current market situation, we are often able to negotiate the prices on behalf of our clients at levels not available to individuals. We also take care of all the "paperwork" meaning preparation of bi-lingual lease contracts, making sure that the conditions within those contracts are fair for both sides and they are properly signed and notarized. And as said, we assist with post-lease maintenance issues for the tenants. • What are some of the common problems that foreigners face when they are moving into a new home here? How do you help resolve them? Language and cultural barriers are the main source of our problems. Foreigners and Vietnamese people look at certain issues in different ways. We know from experience how to avoid issues in advance – for example explaining to owners that once the house has been rented, it is not acceptable to drop by or walk inside without notifying the tenant. We also ensure that the furniture and equipment that has been promised is delivered – we pay close attention to the details and put them in the least contract so that there are no disappointments. And we help tenants set up internet, cable TV and give them information about the area as well as where they can buy household goods. Central Vietnam Realty: www.cvr.com.vn Call Piotr on 0934 891 746

Around Hoi An Cham Islands These exquisitely preserved islands comprise of eight islets altogether and offer the best diving in Vietnam. Brimming with marine life and corals from 5m to 30m below the water, these islands could be described as a diver’s paradise. The main Cham Island has a small, friendly community and harbours some beautiful beaches and jungle. The best option for diving, snorkeling or sailing tours out to the island would be to organize through the Cham Island Diving Center (www.chamislanddiving.com).

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Marble Mountains The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five distinctive hills famous for their limestone and marble contents. Considered a holy site for Buddhists, the pagodas, shrines and cave grottos within the mountains are unique and beautiful. However, the mountains have become quite ‘touristy’ over recent years and it is best to visit either early morning or late afternoon else the normally serene space is not exactly peaceful at all. You can buy a map at the ticket gate which explains where to find certain attractions within the mountains and you’ll be surprised how much there is to explore.

Bach Ma National Park Bach Ma National Park was a favourite residential area among the foreign elite during the French occupation. Today this sprawling 22,031 hectare national preserve harbours some of Vietnam’s most unique wildlife – efforts to regenerate areas cleared by either settlement or war have been very successful. In fact, species that were thought extinct have re-emerged in this wonderful forest sanctuary, including the Argus and Edwards’ pheasants. For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bach Ma will provide the ideal adventure, and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain.

BaNa Hills Ba Na Hills is located on Chua Mountain in the Truong Son Mountains, 30km from the centre of Da Nang City. French colonists started developing Ba Na in the early 20th Century and now with its temperate climate and beautiful scenery, it is a very popular one day tour or even overnight stay. Experience the cable car to the hill station and take in the spectacular views over the East Sea and distant mountain ranges.

My Son Regarded as Vietnam’s most significant archaeological site, My Son is a must-see sanctuary for any visitor exploring Central Vietnam. The temple remnants once served as the country’s chief place of worship during the Champa Kingdom which peaked in Vietnam over 500 years ago. Visitors will see architectural influences from Cambodia, China and India in the unique stone vestiges. Plenty of tour operators have buses to My Son which last for a half day and cost around US$14. Ask your hotel for details or consult our listings. Alternatively, hire a motorbike taxi to escort you – if you leave early you will miss the main throng of tourists and can stop and start as you please along the way. The journey itself is wonderfully picturesque.

Hue Once Vietnam’s capital, the imperial city still exudes a regal personality that is unmatched throughout the country. For avid historians this is a must visit town – especially the Citadel, home to the forbidden city where only emperor’s and those closest to them were allowed within its walls. Hue also boasts some of the country’s finest cuisine, having been a city that was home to the royal family the best chefs in Vietnam were handpicked by emperors to concoct special recipes. Of course commoners were banned from eating such cuisine but these days visitors can feast in a truly royal fashion during their stay.

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Road Trip:

Our next stop was Lang Co Beach, after hearing about all the incredible stretches of powder soft sand, gently lapping waves and fabulous seafood restaurants we’d planned this as our lunch stop. Sadly our driver misunderstood our pleas and parked up at a Disney’esque Asian hotel where lunch options included turtle and other rare species favoured by its Chinese clientele. It is a beautiful beach though and if you need some UK pound coins the beach sellers here are your best bet. We skipped lunch deciding instead to stop off at an authentic street food stall nearer Hue and try a

m a n t e i V l a r t n Ce from Hoi An Caroline Mills

Give me four weeks in Hoi An and I can

still find something new to fill my days, it offers a little bit of everything but more than that it offers the best base from which to take in Central Vietnam’s stunning coast, the incredible Hai Van Pass, the country’s war torn history and even the biggest caves in the world. Sometimes it’s good to explore and when it’s this easy, it seems rude not to! Hoi An, Hai Van Pass, Vinh Moc Tunnels, Phong Nha, Da Nang, 4 days… done! Take two teenagers, four excitable ‘adults’, a car, bikes and the most beautiful train route in Vietnam, some unidentified local dishes, a few rather awkward stop offs and you get the above – only more memorable. We started our journey with the world’s most law abiding driver at the ungodly hour of 07.30. Slowly we made our way along the coastal road to the big city of Da Nang. We opted not to stop at Marble Mountain in favour of reaching our destination before nightfall, on reflection we could all have got out, climbed the mountain and still caught up with our driver whose concern for our safety included avoiding any kind of overtaking of other vehicles – namely bicycles and stationary food stalls. Fortunately as we hit the zig-zagging sheer drop and cliff-edged roads of the Hai Van Pass, our driver found fourth gear which was met with huge excitement initially, until we realized that once he had found fourth, he stuck with it, even up the steep inclines. The Hai Van Pass is however as incredible as Mr Clarkson has raved. Even the teenagers woke up long enough to utter a few ‘awesomes’ and the views from the defense post at the top were spectacular. If you only have a day – make your way to the Hai Van Pass, it is worth it.

new regional specialty, the delicious Bun Bo Hue. When we informed our driver of this change of plan he sped off in first gear towards Hue and afterwards to the Vinh Moc tunnels. We’d been told to look out for a little mute guy that was born in the tunnels and hung out giving ‘unofficial’ tours of where he grew up, we found him up by the museum and he was potentially the best guide I have ever had. We literally ran through the tunnels stopping to see the little maternity area where he was born and then descended right into the deepest, smallest walkways. We were the only foreigners there and as far as I could see there were not any English speaking guides. It could have been a bit claustrophobic down in the depths, but even the most panic attack prone teenagers of our group felt safe with our very entertaining guide. I strongly recommend a visit to Vinh Moc tunnels if you’re heading up this way. We eventually arrived to a very warm welcome at Phong Nha Farmstay – relieved that we had made it with only having run over one dog along the way and we had a festive evening feasting on shepherd’s pie and drinking Huda beers. Phong Nha. What can I say, it is mind-blowing, breathtaking and awesome (thanks kids). We trekked into the Paradise Cave, practically lost our swimwear in mountain rapids, watched rarely seen monkeys swing through trees and canoed

128 and swam through the appropriately named ‘Dark Cave’ with a geologist or botanist (I can’t remember which) guide who’s passion for the park meant that even the teenagers came away with a slight education in all things cave, the fact that you need military permission to enter the park also means for now anyway its one of the least touristed wonders of Vietnam. It also means that it’s not cheap – the tour we did was 900,000VND per person, but hell, was it worth it! The teenagers said it was the best thing they did, like, ever. Day two at Phong Nha Farmstay and we took the teens around the outskirts of the park by bike, guided by one of the farmstay owners, Ben. We cycled through rivers, along spine rattling dirt tracks, flew down steep precipices (we had no brakes) and made refreshment stops at family homes. For dinner we hit the town, feasted on clay pot road kill and crawled into bed ready for the next day’s challenge (train back to Da Nang). I seem to remember some bloke famously saying it’s not about the destination but the journey, and our train ride back to Da Nang proved him right. The dining carriage turned in to a huge party at 11am, with the incredible Mr Nguyen – a passenger who had turned guide for us – pointing out all the best scenery and throwing in some valuable local information. His disposition aptly lubricated by plenty of local rice wine. We experienced aweinspiring views from Hue to Da Nang which made all of us wish we hadn’t bothered with the driver on the way up, but then we would have missed the tunnels, the Hai Van Pass and the poor old dog. It may have taken us four days to regain feeling in our buttocks from the bike ride but all in all the trip was amazing, even when Miss Molly Eade got her exam results on a borrowed laptop in the middle of butt**** nowhere. Well done Molly! We organised our trip with the help of Diem Travel on Tran Hung Dao St, opposite Ganesh restaurant, booked our train tickets through Go Travel on Phan Chau Trinh and our accommodation directly with Phong Nha Farmstay.

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Marvels of Siem Reap THE

Caroline Mills

If the mix of colonial and traditional

architecture of Hoi An’s streets have whetted your appetite for more or a visit to My Son’s jungle-lined Cham temple has brought out the Indiana Jones in you, then you should consider jumping on a direct flight from Da Nang to Siem Reap in Cambodia. Siem Reap’s star attraction is of course the architectural marvel Angkor Wat. If temple trawling is right up your colonial street then you’ll be blown away by the enigmatic Bayon with its giant carved stone faces, the impressive tree-entwined Ta Prohm, or indeed Baphuon – the world’s largest jigsaw puzzle. For the more adventurous seeking their own Temple of Doom then grab yourself a tuk tuk to Beng Mealea, which has been almost entirely swallowed by the jungle and hike through the dense forest to the sacred Kbal Spean. This is the river of a thousand lingas – a cascading series of streams decorated with a multitude of phallic symbols (lingas) symbolically rendering the waters fertile. Afterwards, a visit to Banteay Srei, a beautiful Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva also known as the ‘Temple of the Woman’ is definitely warranted. It is one of the most incredible showcases of Angkorian craftsmanship you can see but is located on a rather bumpy but hugely rewarding hour long drive from Angkor. To get the most out of your ticket start your ‘Wat-athon’ at sunset and you will get the whole of the following day on the same ticket. Believe me, if you planned to do a sunrise tour, by ticking a few must-sees off your list the evening before instead makes the next day at the temples far more relaxed and in the midday heat you’ll be glad you did.

Siem Reap is not all about temples and although a visit to Angor Wat is an absolute must its worth tagging on a few extra days to explore both the winding backstreets and pagoda district where you will find Wat Bo (and rather a few pesky monkeys), the pre-Angkor Wat Preah and the former royal palace Wat Dam Nak and if you are in search of a little peace and tranquility then taking a dugout canoe down to the serene Tonle Sap lake village of Kompong Pluk an over water stilted village of skyscraper proportions makes for a blissful afternoon of quiet reflection and local life. As a destination Siem Reap has everything, offering accommodation from basic B&Bs through to deluxe boutique escapes and a climate that makes it a year round possibility. November through to February is the coolest, driest time making trekking through the jungle temples manageable to even the most heat sensitive souls. Then there’s the food…. Khmer cuisine is a fragrant explosion of some of the most delicious delicacies Southeast Asia has to offer with Amoc (slowly baked fish or chicken with a light coconut, lemongrass and chilli sauce) an absolute must-try. And don’t forget the shopping – from boutiques in the Alley West to the bustling Old Market, you’ll be glad for the extra baggage allowance! Silk Air flies direct to Siem Reap from Da Nang three times a week. For more information about their flight times and prices, please see http:// www.silkair.com/ or call the Da Nang office on (84)511 3562708.

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Discovering

Da Nang

Da Nang is Vietnam’s fourth largest city

and has seen a vast increase in business development and tourism over the last few years. The coastal area of Da Nang was a famous rest and recreation point for US marines during the war. Today the beaches are still clean and expansive, stretching all the way to Hoi An. But Da Nang has other attractions worth visiting too. The city has international standard shopping malls, a cinema, sports facilities and a variety of restaurants and bars. Literally at the centre of Vietnam, it is a city where the cosmopolitan and the cultural combine. GETTING TO DA NANG: Taxis can be pricey if you’re going to Da Nang, generally hovering around the 350,000VND mark for one way. If you want a private car, it will be cheaper – around 200,000VND for one way. If you want to stay in town for a couple of hours then you can negotiate a return price. Alternatively, there is the yellow bus which leaves from just off Nguyen Tat Thanh St (see our Hoi An map) which should cost no more than 20,000 VND one way. CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS Cham Museum: On the corner of Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang streets, this museum harbours the oldest relics of the Cham era in Vietnam. If you go to My Son, you should complement your trip with a visit to this museum which has some impressive sandstone sculptures of ancient Hindu icons. BARS/DINING Apsara Restaurant: This gourmet Vietnamese restaurant is well-known and boasts an exceptional number of fine Vietnamese dishes. They often have live music too. 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang. (0511) 3561 409, www.apsaradanang.com Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant: While the menu is limited, this small place has a good reputation for tasty and very reasonably priced food.162 Nguyen Du, Da Nang Bamboo2 Bar: Diem is every expats favourite bar owner! Bamboo2 has an unrivalled atmosphere of good cheer that is complemented by Diem’s own personality and that of her cool staff. By far the best place to hangout in Da Nang for a few drinks, its location is also perfect along the river. Bamboo2 offers a decent menu of burgers, steak sandwiches, toasties, pizzas and Vietnamese dishes. Diem’s comprehensive music selection and playlists are second to none.216 Bach Dang, Da Nang, Open 11am til Late. Beachfront Seafood Restaurants: From My Hung, Blue Whale to Phuoc My 2 (yes, pronounced that way), there are a series of higher end (in Vietnamese terms) seafood restaurants that line the shore of My Khe beach. Each of them have aquarium tanks for you to choose your fresh oceanic specialty. Turn right at the end of Pham Van Dong St. Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant, Mercure Danang Hotel: Quickly becoming ‘the’ place to go for weekend Dim Sum Golden Dragon’s menu offers a tasty selection of tradition Chinese dishes. A family friendly restaurant offering stunning views over the city skyline. Lot A1, Green Island, Hai Chau Dist, Danang, 0511 3797 777. Le Bambino: Unmatched French fare and other international dishes feature on the menu of this quaint restaurant. The filet mignon, BBQ and pasta dishes are all exceptional, as well as the wine list. Owned and managed by a

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135 French-Vietnamese couple. 112/11 Quang Trung, Da Nang. (0511) 3896 386. http://www.lebambino.com

ENTERTAINMENT

Luna Pub: Come dine at Da Nang's hottest new venue. Extensive Italian food menu, cocktails, wine and imported beers. One metre shooter slab (12 shots) for 200,000VND - all homemade, high quality shots. 9A Tran Phu St, 093 2400 298

Bowling: A great indoor sport during wet season, this bowling alley is also cheap! If you play between the hours of 9-5pm than you can get 20 balls (the equivalent of one game) for only 20,000 VND ($1) and shoe hire is 5,000 VND. After 5pm it’s 25,000 VND per game. 4th Floor, Co-op Mart, 46 Dien Bien Phu St, 0511 3647 050

Mumtaz Indian Restaurant: Da Nang’s only Indian restaurant, Mumtaz boasts a large range of Northern and Southern Indian dishes. Their Thali sets are superb. Mumtaz will deliver in Da Nang and for a minimum order of 200,000 VND will even deliver to Hoi An. 231 Tran Phu, 0511 3839 888

Megastar Cineplex: Da Nang’s best selection of current movies that are not dubbed in Vietnamese! (see our cinema listings) Level 4, Vinh Trung Plaza, 255-257 Hung Vuong St 0511- 3.666. 222www.megastar-media.net

O’de’V Steak house and Margarita Bar: Downtown Da Nang’s grooviest destination. Perfect prime US and Australian steak grilled on a unique aged iron grill with a choice of fine wines from the library, sumptuous food in decadent surroundings. Great happy hour offers on food and cocktails. 7 Pasteur Street Da Nang 0511 3538 385

NIGHTCLUBS Le Funk: A funky little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Le Funk is stylish but not expensive. Shots start at 20,000VND. 166 Bach Dang St, Da Nang, 0511 3843 291, 0121 554 335.

Phi Lu Chinese Restaurant: The premier Chinese restaurant of the city, Phi Long is long-established and has a very well priced menu with a large variety. A popular spot for lunch; especially for the popular chicken rice. 225 Nguyen Chi Thanh

Seventeen Saloon: A large saloon style place has live music every night, a dance floor and regular special events. It is an interesting mix of bar and nightclub and is becoming quite popular among locals and foreigners. Z76 Tran Hung Dao St, 0511 6285 017,www.seventeensaloon.com.vn

Pizza Plus / Bread of Life: The esteemed Bread of Life cafe is a Da Nang institution. They offer a fabulous menu of pizzas, burgers, pastas and ‘comfort foods’ for expats. They bake their own bread and cakes, you can make-toorder and they do delivery. Most of the staff are deaf and the proceeds go to training the deaf in the Da Nang and surrounding areas. 4 Dong Da, Da Nang (0511) 3565 185, Open Mon-Sat 6am to 10pm.

SHOPPING

Red Sky Restaurant & Bar: This is a favourite locals’ restaurant in town – run by chefs, the menu is nothing less than exceptional – expect wonderful meat cuts as well as inventive salads and local seafood with a twist. Fine dining in comfortable, relaxed surrounds. Red Sky also has a decent wine selection to match their meals. 248 Tran Phu St Da Nang, 05113-894-895 Syrena: A new edition to the beachside restaurants yet vastly different in terms of vibe and menu. Dine on sumptuous Cantonese cuisine (proper Hong Kong style) with seafood classics such as Crab in Claypot, Eel in XO sauce, Lobster and more. The restaurant has three floors with a rooftop, a pool and an open kitchen plus sushi station. 1C-1D Hoang Sa, Son Tra (along the beachfront restaurant boulevard at My Khe) 0511 247338 Tam’s Pub & Surf Shop: Tam’s is a small place owned and run by Tam, one of Da Nang’s premier tour guides and a great host. Cheap beer and simple food. Best place to come for up to date surf reports. 38 An Thuong 5 My An.0905 406 905 Tulip Czech Beer: A large European style beer hall serving great dark and light beer brewed on site. Also has an extensive variety of food including Vietnamese fare and house specials such as German sausages. They recently renovated so the atmosphere is now bright and cheery – very beery! 174 September 2nd (2/9) Street, Da Nang, Open 11am – 11pm Waterfront Restaurant & Bar: This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are daily from 5.30-6.30pm for selected cocktails only. 150 Bach Dang, Da Nang, 0511 3843 373, open everyday from 11am – midnight.

Indochina Riverside Towers: Is home to residences, offices and a Western style shopping mall. There are some very upmarket retail outlets alongside two stylish cafes; Highlands and Segafredo. If you are sick of bargaining for fake goods, come here for fixed prices on genuine name brands. 74 Bach Dang, Da Nang. www.indochinariverside.com Big C Supermarket: This is inside a 4-storey shopping complex with a supermarket, small retail shops, Highlands café as well as Lotteria and KFC restaurants. Megastar Cinema is located on the 4th floor. Corner of Hung Vuong and Ong Ich Khiem St, Da Nang. Metro Cash & Carry: A huge Western style megamart, with many imported items and other household goods not necessarily available in Hoi An. A passport or business license is required to shop here. Cach Mang Thang Tam, Da Nang. Han Market: Located right in the center of Da Nang this is a typical Vietnamese market with a lively fresh produce section as well as areas for clothes and household items.Bach Dang, Hung Vuong and Tran Phu, Da Nang. SPORT Football: Hire a court for about 300,000 VND per hour. Tuyen Son Sports Center, turn left at the end of 2/9 street, Da Nang. Surfing: From October to February the stretch of coast between Da Nang and Hoi An is a great place to get some waves. Boards are available to rent from Tam’s Pub. Kayaks, bodyboards and a host of other watersports equipment is available at The Temple, Beach Road Da Nang. Tennis: Hire tennis courts for between 40,000 to 60,000 VND and hour. Corner of Bach Dang and Quang Trung St, Da Nang. Yoga Club: Classes run throughout the day, prices range from 20,000 to 30,000 VND per lesson, each lasting 90 minutes. 6th Floor, 76-78 Bach Dang, Da Nang.

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Organic Farming in Da Nang:

Putting Down Sustainable Roots Amy Morison

Stemming from a friendship between

a biotechnology major and his Australian English teacher, the Vin.Aust Organic Farming company in Da Nang not only grows and sells organic produce but helps provide vital sustainable solutions for the local farming community. With toxic chemicals being a hot topic in Central Vietnam; especially in light of how heavily the region was affected from Agent Orange bombing during the American War, it’s understandable that people want to avoid using fertilizers and insecticides on their crops. With this as part of his key motivation, Pham Xuan Thuy set up a company that embraces organic agricultural technology with the aid of an Australian mentor, Greg John Young. In an interview with Live Hoi An, Thuy explained the concept of what he is doing and why it is so important for the community. • Can you tell us a little about Vin.Aust organic farming company? How did it begin? I was a very close student of an Australian English teacher, Greg John Young. After I completed my English studies, we kept in touch – even when I came back from university and after working for a year. We shared a mutual passion to start a business in the organic agricultural sector. So Greg gave me the seed money to set up the business and also taught me about organic agricultural technology. In respect of his trust for me and to honour the special relationship between a Vietnamese student and Australian teacher, I named the business the VinAust. Organic Farming Company. • What type of produce do you farm/grow? We mostly grow mushrooms and Western herbs. We grow oyster mushrooms to sell in supermarkets; namely Big C and Coop Mart. We also supply a number of 5-star hotels with Western herbs. To grow the mushrooms we use sawdust and rice straw. Once they’ve grown, we re-use the soil as compost to grow vegetables – effectively creating a healthy cycle where nothing is wasted.

With an increased demand for organic products, we need to cooperate with local farmers to expand our agricultural models and methods. This helps give many farmers a better livelihood. In this sense, we feel our products are gifts that give more than once – first, in that the products are healthier for consumers, and second, that we can bring a new and sustainable income for farmers. We are working with the farmers at Khe Su – the bufferzone of Bach Ma Nation Park – under the guidance of the Charcoal Project. The premise of the Charcoal Project, as stated by the Tokyo University of Agriculture and Technology (who are implementing it) is to: “Improve Rural Living and Nature Conservation by Multiple Use of Charcoal and Wood Vinegar in Bach Ma National Park.” The project is also supported by the Japan International Cooperation Agency. • Why is organic farming better? In Vietnam, food safety is a topic that raises many concerns – people are scared of chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Farmers who work with these chemicals are also prone to various cancers. Between my company and the Charcoal Project we can ensure that these farmers can grow produce in a harmless, natural way that will not destroy the natural forest. From this point of view our role is very important. • What are the benefits for people to buy organic? Obviously that we don’t use chemicals, so you’re not consuming anything harmful. Also, the taste is definitely better. We study the soil at our farm sites carefully to check that there is no history of chemical dumping as well. • Are there any features that are different between organic produce and non-organic? The colouring. Organic products are natural in colour. For example, the green of morning glory is dark when it is natural, not bright green. Also, organic vegetables tend to be smaller. • Which organizations do you work with? No.

Organization

Activities

PUM, www.pum.nl/

To receive support from mushroom experts

Charcoal project

To build a supply chain for organic products from Khe Su

Red Cross

To teach and build a new farm at the training centre for people with disabilities

• Can both individuals and businesses purchase your products? Yes. We offer both. Customers can buy at our Da Nang Weekend Market at the Da Nang University or can order from our hotline (0905 394 148) or website: www.vinaustorganics.com. We provide delivery to both homes and businesses. Our price list is available on the website. VinAust Organic Farming Co., Ltd: Hotline: +84 (0) 905 394 148 E-mail: vinausorganics@gmail.com - Web: www.vinaustorganics.com

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Luna Pub Da Nang:

Not just

big pizza pie Amy Morison

that’s amore!

Enter the premises of Luna Pub in Da Nang

and you get the feeling that this could be in a cosmopolitan Western city such as London, New York or Sydney. With the semblance of a renovated warehouse – with its rustic-looking brick walls, elevated ceiling, copper piping and metallic lamp shades – my first impression was that this could be in a fashionable part of Brooklyn or Manhattan’s meatpacking district. The bright red fire truck DJ station and petrol pump paraphernalia obviously add to the effect, leading some TripAdisor reviewers to believe the building was actually converted from a garage. In fact it wasn’t, but owner/ manager Michael certainly wanted to create a space that was different to any other venue in the area. Mission accomplished. Furthermore, Michael has been able to extend both the food and the beverage menu beyond that of his other Luna D’Autunno restaurant in Hoi An (there are a number of restaurants under the Luna D’Autunno brand that exist in both Vietnam and Cambodia), and to tweak it to suit the Da Nang market, which attracts a healthy mix of foreigners and Vietnamese. Beyond the pizzas, which are exceptional at either the Hoi An or Da Nang venues

(authentic Italian – woodfired, thin crusted, using imported meats and ranging from 160,000VND-210,000VND) and pastas, Michael has added risotto’s and a variety of mains, with my personal favourite, the Veal Scallopini Prosciutto. Three breaded veal pieces, wrapped in cured ham and served with potatoes and vegetables; this dish is not only absolutely divine but also very reasonable at 280,000VND. So are the steaks – with both rib eye and tenderloins priced within the range of 330,000-380,000VND. The risotto and his lasagne dishes are also served in clay pots, adding a local twist to their presentation. And to complete a main course, Michael has a series of homemade ice creams, Italian desserts (the Panna Cotta is fantastic) and Italian coffee. To complement the high standards of the food, bar manager David has added his touch by furnishing a truly unique drink menu of cocktails, imported beers, wines and his signature homemade shooters. With a long, beautiful timber bar to work with, David has created ‘1 metre’ shooter panels (12 shots) which come at a very affordable 200,000VND per metre. There are an array of shooter flavours to choose from including my favourite, ‘violet’, as well as mint, cucumber, apple, caramel, coffee and more (I can’t remember them all, although I’m pretty sure I tried every one the last time I visited – my memory is a little blurry). Whilst the food and beverage quality is excellent, Luna Pub is a casual dining space, where people can feel at ease – pretentious behaviour will not be tolerated! With a DJ station, live music and foosal table, customers can drop in for drinks and just hang out or stay to dine. Family style dining – where you can share dishes as a group – is recommended as the menu is so comprehensive, you’ll want to sample various things (believe me). With fresh baked breads, pizzas and pastas all producing wonderful aromas from the open kitchen at the rear, it would be difficult to avoid falling into food temptation anyway! Luna Pub: Open daily from 11am until late 9A Tran Phu St, Da Nang - Tel: +84 (0) 93 2400 298

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Pure Sunday Brunch Indulgence at InterContinental Danang

Amy Morison food platters and imported meats for the grill. But let me describe it to you section by section, so that your mouth starts to salivate and your heart starts palpitating at the very thought of this lavish Sunday spread. Apologies if you’re reading this on a Monday.

Regardless of your upbringing or culture, Sunday is universally seen as the day to rest, relax or in my case, indulge in the reverie of life’s greatest combination of pleasures – fine champagne, exquisite cuisine and great company. With the addition of the Citron restaurant’s Sunday brunch at the majestic and recently opened InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, my desires for the seventh day of the week have been met at a celestial echelon. Citron is aptly located at ‘Heaven’, the top tier of the resort’s four levels (Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea), affording spectacular views of the entire bay and beyond. If you reserve one of the private pods that crop out from the restaurant – so that you are suspended mid-air 100 metres above sea level – you’ll feel like you are literally floating above the clouds. But paradise does not stop with the view. From late morning until midafternoon every week, Citron is host to possibly the country’s best Sunday brunch experiences available. They have several interactive food stations, with chefs serving up everything from hot breakfast classics to iced sea-

Entering into the buffet area on the left, there is a made to order eggs and pancake station, fronted by hot pots laden with bacon, chipotles and potato rosti. This is sided by a pasta station – also made to order, with tomato-based, pesto and carbonara style sauces – as well as fresh fillets of sea bass and Atlantic salmon available for quick grilling. This moves around to a home baked bread section, and then to a salad selection which includes a hefty fresh seafood barrel filled with crab, tiger prawns, oysters and scampi. However, it is worth mentioning now that there are two tables for cheese and desserts that take centre stage in the buffet region. The dessert table has a vast array of sweets – puddings, mousses, cakes, tarts, pavlova but most importantly, two chocolate fountains (white and milk). The cheese table has an assortment of every type of fromage you could wish for – soft goat’s cheese, gouda, camembert, rochefort, smoked cheddar and more, with crackers and specialized bread sticks. The rest of the buffet spread winds around the outskirts of the area, going from salads and fresh seafood to cold cuts and charcuterie, Vietnamese hot mains and noodle dishes and then on to my personal favourite– the red meat grill sector. Australian rib eye beef and lamb strips are available and the friendly chef’s cook them to your exact liking – unbelievably high quality. Next to this is a carving station – and whatever meat on the carvery might differ each week – on a number of occasions I’ve been there it has been a pork roast with thick lashings of crackling. Hungry yet? Besides the food, glorious food, let’s not forget the free flow Tattinger champagne, beer and wine – or, if you don’t drink alcohol, you can enjoy a free flow of fresh juices, soft drinks or mineral water (also available to the boozers). And while the focus on this article is on the brunch, remember this is also InterContinental – the interior design is simply incredible. In the restaurant, lemony colours and dark woods feature against funky sculptured walls and lofty ceilings. Plump chaise lounges at the entrance and even in the downstairs bathroom area (it has its own lobby) add to the ambiance. Even waltzing into the toilets is a designer experience! If you haven’t tried the Sunday brunch already, put it on your to-do list ASAP. With the free flow champagne it is 998,000VND++ or without champagne 598,000VND++. This is value you simply can’t beat. Citron, InterContinental Da Nang Bai Bac, Sontra Peninsula, Da Nang - Tel: +84-511-3938888 http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/gb/locations/danang

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Index

Activities Adventure Tours

(Including Adventure Tours, Cooking Class, Diving, Golf and Travel Agencies)

Agri-Travel Country Experience Tour 221 Cua Dai Rd Glass Jeep Tours 38 An Thuong 5, Da Nang Hoi An Eco Tour Phuoc Hai Fishing Village, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An Motorbike Adventures 54A Phan Chau Trinh St Hoi An “Love of Life” Bicycle Tour 95 Phan Chau Trinh St Hoi An Photo Tour 36 Nguyen Cong Tru St Heaven & Earth Bicycle Tour 57 Ngo Quyen St Karma Jetski 47 Cua Dai Rd Le Dai Eco Tour Bach Dang St Learn to Surf An Bang & Cua Dai Beach Vintage URAL Motorbike Sidecar Tours Victoria Resort, Cua Dai Beach

Cooking Class /Tasting Tour

Banana Leaf Restaurant 67 Le Loi St 88 Bach Dang St Dao Tien Cooking Class 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St 21 Phan Boi Chau St Green Bamboo Cooking Class Hai Café 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lantern Town 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Morning Glory 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Taste of Hoi An Tour 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Red Bridge Cam Thanh, Hamlet 4 Riverside Garden Restaurant 181 Cua Dai Rd Sakura Restaurant 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

Diving

Blue Coral Diving Center Cham Island Diving Center

Golf

Da Nang Golf Club Montgomerie Links

Travel Agencies

0510 3939 888 3 50 50 17 0905 406 905 0510 3928 900 0914 082 850 0510 3911 930 0918 230 653 0510 3939 399 0905 671 898 0510 3864 362 01268 422 260 0510 3927 632 0913 439 967 01203 976 102 0510 3927 040 0510 3861 346 0510 3914 996 0905 815 600 0510 3862 210 01239 912291 0510 2241 555 0905 382 783 0510 3933 222 0906 406 840 0510 3910 369

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 6279 297 0510 3910 782

Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Dien Ngoc, Dien Ban

0511 3958 111 0510 3941 942

Alex Bu Travel 621 Hai Ba Trung St Fairy Way Travel 621 Hai Ba Trung St Go-Travel VietNam 61 Phan Chau Trinh St Hanh Café 132 Tran Cao Van St Hoi An Buffalo Travel Agency 542 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Travel 10 Tran Hung Dao St Hoi An Windows Tour 85 Tran Cao Van St Impression Travel 617 Hai Ba Trung St Le Nguyen Travel 32 Le Loi St Ly’s Travel 77 Ba Trieu St Mr Hung Travel 68 Tran Hung Dao St Mr Dung Travel Tan My, Cam An Ward Pink Cloud-Air Booking Office 47 Tran Hung Dao St Sinh Café Tour Service 587 Hai Ba Trung St Son My Son Tour 19 Tran Hung Dao St TM Brother & Camel Travel 50 Tran Hung Dao St Tran Nhu Phuong Travel 621 Hai Ba Trung St Vietlantern Travel Cua Dai Beach Viet Ao Travel 38 Thai Phien St

0510 3917 986 0510 3939 949 0906 151 281 0510 3864 609 0510 3914 243 0510 3910 911 0510 3916 763 0510 3862 333 0510 3916 218 0510 3917 666 0510 3862 911 0510 3927 678 0510 3864 113 0510 3919 111 0510 3863 948 0510 3864 864 0510 2211 974 0510 3916 270 0905 121 243 0510 3911 414

144

Index

Dining

145

(Including both Bars and Restaurants)

Al Fresco Restaurant 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Apsara Restaurant 222 Tran Phu St, Da Nang Aroy-D Thai Restaurant 599 Hai Ba Trung St Bale Well Track 45-51 Tran Hung Dao St Bamboo Buddha Café 40 Nguyen Phuc Tan, An Hoi Islet Banana Leaf Restaurant 88 Bach Dang St Banana Split Restaurant 53 Hoang Dieu St Banyan Café 11, An Bang Beach Bazar Café 36 Tran Phu St Billa Bong 34 An Thuong 1 St, Da Nang Before and Now 51 Le Loi St Bep Viet Nam 13 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Islet Blue Dragon Restaurant 46 Bach Dang St Bo Bo Restaurant 18 Le Loi St Bread of Life 4 Dong Da St, Da Nang Brother's Café 27-29 Phan Boi Chau St Can Café 74 Bach Dang St Café Des Amis 52 Bach Dang St Café 43 43 Tran Cao Van St Café 96 96 Bach Dang St Cargo Club 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cat Bien Restaurant Bai Ong Village,Cham Island Cat Tien Sa Floating Boat Restaurant 252 Bach Dang St,Da Nang Cat Tien Museum Restaurant Lot 6-7 Xuan Thieu Villa, Da Nang Cava Brasserie 53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Champa Restaurant, Le Belhamy Hamlet 1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist Citronella Café 05 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Coco Café Cua Dai Rd Cool Spot Restaurant 112 Tran Phu St Cordon Bleu Restaurant 38 Bach Dang St Dac San Hoi An Restaurant 89 Tran Phu St Dam Vegetarian Restaurant 71/20 Phan Chu Trinh St Dao Tien Restaurant 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St 21 Phan Boi Chau St Day & Night Café 42 Tran Cao Van St Dingo Deli Café 229 Cua Dai Rd Dive Café 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Dong Thuan Bakery 409 Cua Dai Rd Du Port Restaurant 70 Bach Dang St Eden Hoi An Café 53 Ba Trieu St Faifoo Restaurant 104 Tran Phu St Festival Night Café 11 Pham Hong Thai St Family Restaurant Café 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Fullmoon Towns 101 Cua Dai Rd Fusion Lounge 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Gandida Bistro 199 Nguyen Van Thoai St, Da Nang Ganesh Indian Restaurant 24 Tran Hung Dao St Gidino Café 113 Ba Trieu St Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant 102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Gourmet Garden Café 55 Le Loi St Green Chili Café 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Green House Restaurant Hyatt Regency, Da Nang Green Mango Restaurant 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Green Moss Restaurant 341 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Hai Café 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Hawaii Guitar Café Nguyen Duy Hieu St Heaven Garden Restaurant 236 Cua Dai Rd Highway 4 Restaurant 111 Ba Trieu

0510 3929 707 0511 3561 409 0510 3919 995 0510 3864 443 0510 2223 300 0510 3861 346 0510 3861 136 0935 100 337 0977 422 886 0510 3911 229 0511 2602 006 0510 3910 599 0510 3862 021 0510 3910 742 0510 3861 939 0511 3565 185 0510 3914 150 0510 3861 525 0510 3861 616 0510 3862 587 0510 3910 441 0510 3911 227 0510 3864 563 0511 3945 519 0510 3911 646 0510 3941 888 0510 2241 491 0510 3923 320 0511 3824 040 0510 3863 439 0510 3861 533 0510 3863 733 0510 3914 996 0510 3916 760 0906 552 824 0510 3910 782 0918 255 521 0510 3924 988 0510 3861 786 0510 3917 930 0510 3861 548 0510 3915 115 0510 3862 279 0510 3923 922 0510 3930 333 01217 488 092 0510 3864 538 0510 3911 167 0510 3910 227 0510 3962 999 0510 3928 199 0511 398 1234 0510 3929 918 0510 3863 728 0510 3863 210 0935 116 147 0510 3919 199 0510 3934 567

Hoi An Restaurant Hoi An Garden Restaurant Hoi An Hai San Restaurant Hong Phuc II Café Java Minute Café Khanh Hoa II Restaurant Kim Nhung Café Kita Guni Restaurant La Me Café La Plage Restaurant Lantern Town Restaurant Laugh Café L’Annam, Victoria Resort Le Ba Truyen II Restaurant Le Bon Café Luna d’Autunno Luna Pub Luong Gia Restaurant Mango Rooms Mango Mango Memory Town Restaurant Mermaid Restaurant Miss Ly Café Moon Restaurant Morning Glory Restaurant Morning Star Restaurant Nam Long Restaurant New Way Restaurant Ngoc Tuyet Restaurant Odev Restaurant Quang Thang Restaurant

89 Tran Phu St 246-248 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 64 Bach Dang St 98 Bach Dang St 59 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Ba Trieu St 109 Tran Hung Dao St 41 Nguyen Chi Thanh St 111 Tran Hung Dao St An Bang Beach 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 126 Tran Cao Van St Cua Dai Beach 12 Ba Trieu St 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Lot 06 An Bang Beach 9A Tran Phu St, Da Nang 34 Le Loi St 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 11 Tran Phu St 02 Tran Phu St 22 Nguyen Hue St 321 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 48 Bach Dang St 103 Cua Dai Rd 473 Cua Dai Rd 43 Tran Hung Dao St 07 Pasture St, Danang 90 Back Dang St

0510 3861 533 0510 3924 779 0510 3861 652 0510 3861 497 0510 3919 333 0510 3917 765 0510 3921 205 0511 3898 210 0510 3916 176 0510 3928 244 01239 912 212 0510 3917 139 0510 3927 040 0510 3864 463 0510 3861919 01272 840 053 093 2400 298 0510 3911 899 0510 3910 839 0510 3911 863 0510 3861 999 0510 3861 527 0510 3861 603 0510 2241 396 0510 2241 555 0510 3861 651 0510 3923 723 0510 3914 945 0510 3861 673 0511 3538 385 0510 3862 130

146

Index Red Bridge Restaurant Riverside Garden Restaurant Sakura Restaurant Samurai Kitchen Secret Garden Restaurant Son Restaurant Song Do Restaurant Soul Kitchen Restaurant Streets International Café Sun Shine Café Tam Tam Café Tao Do Restaurant Taste of Hoi An Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort Thanh Restaurant Thanh Hien Café Thanh Nhi Café Thi Nhan Seafood Restaurant Three Dragons Thuan Y Restaurant Treat Trung Bac Restaurant Twist Restaurant Van Loc Restaurant Vetiver Restaurant Vi Café Viet Hue Café Voulez – Vous Vu Le Café Waterfront Café White Caps Beach Club & Bistro White Marble White Rose Restaurant White Sail Café Yellow Flower Café Yellow River Restaurant Yellow Star Café

Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village 181 Cua Dai Rd 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 188 A/5 Tran Phu St 132/2 Tran Phu St 177 Cua Dai Rd 175 Cua Dai Rd Far left, An Bang Beach 17 Le Loi St 46 Tran Cao Van St 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St 29 Ba Trieu St 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach 76 Bach Dang St 113 Bach Dang St 404 Cua Dai Rd 128 Cua Dai Rd 51 Phan Boi Chau St 94 Bach Dang St 158 Tran Phu St 87 Tran Phu St 29 Cua Dai Rd 27 Tran Phu St 580 Cua Dai Rd 113 Tran Hung Dao St 400 Cua Dai Rd 631 Hai Ba Trung St 47 Cua Dai Rd 150 Bach Dang St, Da Nang Ocean Villas 98 Le Loi St 533 Hai Ba Trung St 134 Tran Cao Van St 104 Bach Dang St 38 Tran Phu St 73 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 3933 222 0906 406 840 0510 3910 369 01228 504 627 0510 2212 640 0510 3861 172 0510 3864 800 01229 292 922 0510 3911 949 0510 3916 902 0510 3862 212 0905 117 793 01217 621 693 0510 3927 927 0510 3861 366 0510 3862 134 0510 3923 346 0510 3862 261 0510 3914 742 0510 3863 179 0905 135820 0510 3864 622 0510 3861 212 0510 3929 333 0510 3917 861 0510 2241 942 0510 3927 339 0510 2212 132 0511 3843 373 0511 3967 094 0510 3911 862 0510 3862 784 0510 3915 569 0510 3241 341 0510 3861 053 0510 3910 430

Accommodation Agribank Resort An Bang Seaside Village An Hoi Hotel An Huy Hotel An Phu Hotel Bach Dang Hotel Boutique Hotel Boutique Hoi An Resort Cua Dai Hotel Dai Long Hotel Dong Khanh Hotel Frangipani Village Resort Furama Resort Fusion Maia Glory Hotel Golden Sand Resort Grassland Hotel Green Field Hotel Ha An Hotel Hai Au Hotel Hai Yen Hotel

Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward An Bang Beach 69 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 30 Phan Boi Chau St 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 01 Nguyen Tat Thanh St 16 Ba Trieu St Block Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An 544 Cua Dai Rd 680 Hai Ba Trung St 42 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Hamlet 5,Cam Thanh 68 Ho Xuan Huong St, Da Nang Truong Sa Street, Da Nang 538 Cua Dai Rd Thanh Nien Rd, Cua Dai Beach 500 Hai Ba Trung St 423 Cua Dai Rd 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St 576 Cua Dai Rd 568 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3927 729 0906660309 0510 3911 888 0510 3862 116 0510 3914 345 0510 3917 801 0510 3916 545 0510 393 9111 0510 3862 231 0510 3916 232 0510 3914 400 0510 3933 933 0511 3847 888 0511 3967 999 0510 3914 444 0510 3927 550 0510 3921 921 0510 3863 484 0510 3863 126 0510 3914 577 0510 3862 445

Hoa Binh Hotel Hoa My Hotel Hoang Trinh Hotel Hoi An Ancient House Resort Hoi An Beach Resort Hoi An Hotel Hoi An Pacific Hotel Hoi An Riverside Resort Hoi An Trade Union Hotel Hoi An Trails Resort Hop Yen Hotel Hoi Pho Hotel Huy Hoang II Hotel Huy Hoang River Hotel Hyatt Resort Le Belhamy Resort Le Domaine De Tam Hai Resort Life Resort Long Life Hotel Long Life Hotel Lotus Hotel Mercure Hotel Minh Quang Hotel My Chau Hotel Nam Hai Resort Nhat Huy Hoang Hotel Nhi Nhi Hotel Nhi Trung Hotel Orchid Garden Home Stay Palm Garden Resort Phuong Dong Hotel Phuong Nam Hotel

696 Hai Ba Trung St 201 Ly Thuong Kiet St 45 Le Quy Don St 377 Cua Dai Rd 01 Cua Dai Rd 10 Tran Hung Dao St 321 Cua Dai Rd 175 Cua Dai Rd 80 Tran Hung Dao St 276 Cua Dai Rd 103 Ba Trieu St 627 Hai Ba Trung St 87 Hung Vuong St 73 Phan Boi Chau St Truong Sa Street, Hoa Hai Ward, Da Nang Beach Dien Duong Hamlet, Dien Ban Dist Tam Hai, Nui Thanh 01 Pham Hong Thai St 30 Ba Trieu St 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet 330 Cua Dai Rd Lot A1 Green Island DaNang 551 Hai Ba Trung St 04 Tran Cao Van St Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village 58 Ba Trieu St 60 Hung Vuong St 700 Hai Ba Trung St 382 Cua Dai Rd Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach 42 Ba Trieu St 224 Ly Thai To St

0510 391 6838 0510 3916 582 0510 3916 579 0510 3923 377 0510 3927 011 0510 3861 445 0510 3923 777 0510 3864 800 0510 3862 370 0510 3923 999 0510 3863 153 0510 3916 382 0510 3916 233 0510 3861 453 0511 3981 234 0510 3941 888 0510 3545 105 0510 3914 555 0510 3916 696 0510 3911 696 0510 3923 357 0511 3797 777 0510 3916 230 0510 3916 307 0510 3940 000 0510 3861 665 0510 3916 718 0510 3863 436 0510 3863 720 0510 3927 927 0510 3916 339 0510 3923 401

Index

148

149

Phuoc An I 31/1 Tran Cao Van St Phuoc An II River Hotel 242 Cua Dai Rd Phu Thinh II Hotel 488 Cua Dai Rd Pho Hoi I Hotel 7/2 Tran Phu St Pho Hoi Riverside Resort Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Red Bridge Villa Hamlet 4 ,Cam Thanh Village River Beach Resort Cua Dai Beach Sea and Sand Hotel 15 Cua Dai Beach Sun Flower Hotel 397 Cua Dai Rd Sunrise Resort Cua Dai Beach Thanh Binh I Hotel 01 Le Loi St Thanh Binh II Hotel 712 Hai Ba Trung St Thanh Binh III hotel 98 Ba Trieu St Thanh Van Hotel 78 Tran Hung Dao St The Ocean Villas Dien Ngoc Coastal Street, Da Nang Thien Nga Hotel 52 Ba Trieu St Thien Thanh Hotel 16 Ba Trieu St Thien Trung Hotel 129 Tran Hung Dao St Thuy Duong III Hotel 92-94 Ba Trieu St Van Loi Hotel Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Cua Dai Beach Vinh Hung I Hotel 143 Tran Phu St Vinh Hung II Hotel Nhi Trung St Vinh Hung III Hotel 96 Ba Trieu St Vinh Hung Resort 111 Ngo Quyen, An Hoi Islet Vinh Huy Hotel 203 Ly Thuong Kiet St Vuon Trau Family Resort Cam Chau Village

SHOPPING ARTS & CRAFTS

Ami Gallery Art Gallery 39 Art Gallery 50 Art Gallery 86 Art Gallery 93 Art Gallery 155 Art Gallery 180 Art Handicraft Workshop Au Lac Wood Art Black White Gallery Cam Ly Souvenir Shop Capallano Sculpture Casa Art & Gifts Chan Nhu Gallery Charming Lacquer Shop Dai Phuc Lamp Shop Diem Kieu Souvenir Shop Fine Art Handicraft Workshop Faifo Art Gallery Foco Souvenir Shop Ha Linh Lantern Shop Hoa Dao Hand Made Hoa Mai Art Gallery Hoang Thach Souvenir Shop Hoi An Agarwood Hoi An Art Handicraft Hoi An Hand Embroidery Hung Dong Art Gallery Hung Long Art Gallery

0510 3916 757 0510 3924 111 0510 3923 923 0510 3861 633 0510 3862 628 0510 3933 222 0905 452 092 0510 3927 888 0510 3927 999 0510 3939 838 0510 3937 777 0510 3861 740 0510 3863 715 0510 3916 777 0510 3916 916 0511 3967 094 0510 3916 330 0510 3916 545 0510 3861 769 0510 3916 565 0510 3936 205 0510 3927 040 0510 3861 621 0510 3863 717 0510 3916 277 0510 3910 393 0510 3916 559 0510 3924 165

(Including Arts & Crafts, Clothing, Jewellery, Shoes) (Including Art Galleries, Interior Products, Home DĂŠcor, Lanterns and Souvenirs) 46 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 90 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 93 Phan Chau Trinh St 155 Tran Phu St 180 Tran Phu St 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 152 Tran Phu St 42 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 31 Tran Phu St 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 25 Phan Boi Chau St 118 Tran Phu St 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 300 Ly Thuong Kiet St 9 Nguyen Hue St 41 Le Loi St 05 Chau Thuong Van St 128 Tran Phu St 72 Tran Nhan Tong St 128 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 114 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 49 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 186 Tran Phu St 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 04 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 52 Tran Phu St 105 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 3911 963 0510 3862 817 0510 3916 680 0510 3910 398 0510 3862 710 0510 3861 869 0510 3861 765 0510 3910 216 0510 3911 092 0983 040 415 0510 3911 542 0510 3910 311 0984 344 914 0510 3921 395 0510 3911 554 0510 3921 524 0510 2222 455 0510 3862 164 0510 3861 782 0510 3862 490 0510 3923 037 0510 3910 482 0510 3862 339 0510 3863 423 0510 3911 866 0510 3910 216 0510 3862 235 0510 3862 902 0510 3861 924

Hung Thai Souvenir Shop Hung Toan Art-Wooden Kim Bong Craft Village Kim Bong Handicraf Furniture Lam Kieu Souvenir Shop Lantern Shop Loc An Art Gallery Long Vy Lanterns Jade Rabbit Emporium Mr Binh Souvenir Shop Nam Tran Art Craft Ngan Xua Art Gallery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Nguyen Tan Hiep Art Gallery Phan Kim Chi Art Gallery Phuc Thanh Gallery Phuoc Tinh Souvenir Shop Quynh Giao Embroidery Radio Tan Reaching Out Handicrafts Red Strawberry Giftshop Same Same But Better Gallery Soil Gallery Sparkling Souvenir Shop T-Long Gallery Tan Phong Home Furniture Tay Vien Gallery Thang Loi Fine Arts Handicraft Thanh Cong Art Gallery Thanh Tram Souvenir Shop Thien Tan Home Furniture TiTi Electronic Shop Tran Phu Bamboo & Lacquer Tran Phu Lantern Shop Trieu Mask Art Trong Anh Art Gallery Trung Tin Home Furniture Tuoi Ngoc Lantern Tuyen Xuong Loi Souvenir Shop Van Anh Carving & Bamboo Van Toan Souvenir Shop Vina Souvenir Shop Viet Town Artisan Village XQ Vietnam Yin Yang Antique & Art Shop 09 Souvenir Shop 75 Tran Phu Souvenir Shop

105 Tran Phu St 26 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Trung Ha, Cam Kim Village 52 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 41 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 06 Phan Chau Trinh St 9 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Island, Hoi An 131 Tran Phu St 62 Bach Dang St 95 Tran Phu St 147 Tran Phu St 44 Tran Phu St 37 Le Loi St 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 13 Tran Phu St 638 Hai Ba Trung St 174 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 298 Le Loi St 303 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 39 Le Loi St 57 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 48 Ly Thuong Kiet St 82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 92 Phan Chu Trinh St 95 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 51 Tran Phu St 173 Ly Thuong Kiet St 264 Ly Thuong Kiet St 75 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 692 Hai ba Trung St 130 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Phu St 40 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 120 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 62 Tran Phu St 127 Phan Chu Trinh St 23 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 60 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Hung Dao St 75 Tran Phu St

ARTHOUSE VIETNAM

0510 3911 200 0905 558 323 0510 3934 282 0510 3861 307 0510 3861 565 0510 3861 996 0510 3910 208 0510 3606 611 0510 3862 179 0510 3911 461 0510 3911 467 0510 3862 390 0510 3911 077 0510 3910 119 0510 3910 218 0510 3861 460 0510 3917 930 0510 3861 270 0510 3910 168 0906 568 991 0510 3910 294 0510 3914 967 0905 210011 0510 3863 457 0510 3862 970 0510 3910 096 0510 3864 610 0510 3863 673 0510 3911 165 0510 3917 138 0510 3864 691 0510 3911 134 0510 3861 996 0510 3861 919 0989 391 486 0510 3939 939 0510 3861 920 0510 3911 048 0905 113 180 0510 3911 221 0511 3862 781 0510 3917 700 0510 3911 872 0510 3911 449 0510 3863 573 0510 3911 134

CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY

original artwork by vietnamese artists founder/director: Vu Trong Anh (Mr) Main office: 692 Hai Ba Trung St., Hoi An City, Vietnam - Tel. (+84) 510. 3950068, (+84) 98 9391486 E. info@arthousevietnam.com - www.arthousevietnam.com

150

Index CLOTHING (Including Fashion, Boutiques and Tailors) A Dong Silk 62 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3910 579 An Cloth Shop 63 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 144 Anh Silk Boutique 507 Cua Dai Rd 0510 2211 981 Ao Ba Ba Cloth Shop 148 Tran Phu St 0510 3920 666 Asian Cloth Shop 572 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3863 911 Au-A Glasses 87 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 01268 400 950 AvAna 57 Le Loi St 0510 3911 611 Ba Ba 83 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3861 669 Bam–Bo Cloth Shop 481 Cua Dai Rd 0510 2212 315 Bamboo Green Tailor 38 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 053 Bao An Cloth Shop 64 Ba Trieu St 0510 3917 379 Bao Diep Cloth Shop 28 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 078 Bao Khanh Tailor 101 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 818 BeBe Cloth Shop 09 Hoang Dieu St 0510 2212 670 Bi Bo Design 52 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 923 Bi Hanh Cloth Shop 53 Tran Hung Dao Rd 0905 071 349 Bin Cloth Shop 296 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3914 524 Blue Cloth Shop 56 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 392 Blue Gecko Cloth Shop 279 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3915 789 Bohemian Luxe 11/19 Phan Boi Chau St 0908403809 01283276993 Bup Design 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3862 165 Cali Design 12 Le Loi St 0510 3911 100 Chic Couture 698 Hai Ba Trung St 0510 3864 110 Chic-Unique Cloth Shop 62 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3914 187 Chip Tailor 42 Bach Dang St 0510 3910 678 Diem Diem Cloth Shop 55 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 477 Dong Duong Tailor 115 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 611 Dung Tailor 23 Le Loi St 0510 3863 865 Elegant Cloth Shop 35 Le Loi St 0510 3911 847 Everybody’s Fashion 718 Hai Ba Trung St 0510 3911 174 Family Clothes Shop 86 Ba Trieu St 0510 3917 227 Fashion Shop 588 Hai Ba Trung St 0905 939 044 Future Cloth Shop 586 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3915 186 Ginkgo 59 Le Loi St 0908 090 104 Giogio Tailor 702 Hai Ba Trung St 0510 2241 440 Guy & Gals Cloth Shop 17 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 947 Hanh Hung Cloth Shop 103 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3910 456 Happy Cloth Shop 57 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3915 199 Heritage Boutique 29 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 777 Hoang Lan Cloth Shop 42 Tran Phu St 0510 3910 955 House of Hoi An 41 Le Loi St 0510 3911 512 Hot Chili 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3929 553 Hugo II Cloth Shop 29 Tran Phu St 0510 3916 553 Huong Xuan Cloth Shop 08 Le Loi St 0510 3861 498 Impression Boutique 70 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3862 063 Ixora Shop 96 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 2471 191 Khoi Cloth Shop 20 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 113 Kim Chi Tailor 90 Le Loi St 0510 3862 244 Kim Nhung Cloth Shop 166 Nguyen Truong To St 0510 3927 135 Kim Quyen Cloth Shop 113 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3862 134 Ki-nu 188/7 Tran Phu St 0510 3938 778 Kisetsu 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510-3938-778 Lana Stylist 130 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 211 94 & 90 Le Loi St La Vy Cloth Shop 36 Ba Trieu St 0510 3501 581 Long Silk 172 Tran Phu St 0510 3863 400 Luna Cloth Shop 345 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3928 234 Ly Cloth Shop 55 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3914 123 Mac Khai Cloth Shop 12 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3861 397 Mai Ly Cloth Shop 57 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3862 794 Mai Thanh Silk 112 Tran Phu St 0905 947 417 Me Linh Cloth Shop 28 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 326 Metiseko 3 Chau Thuong Van St 0510 3929 278

Minh Tri Tailor Monkey Side My Dieu Cloth Shop MyMy Cloth Shop My Trang Fashion Nam Ngai Silk New Fashion II New World Cloth Shop Ngan Ha Cloth Shop Nhat Silk Ngoc Uyen Silk Nit Tailor I&II Ny Na Boutique Papaya T-Shirt Papillon Noir Phu Quoc Souvenir Shop Phuoc An Cloth Shop Phuong Huy Cloth Shop Rin My Cloth Shop Silk Road Tailor Song Shop Sova111 Couture & Design Sum Tailor Sun Cloth Shop Tamarind Tree Fine Clothing Thao Nguyen Cloth Shop The Galaxy Tailor Thinh Thanh Cloth Shop

342 Cua Dai Rd 01 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 61 Ba Trieu St 164 Tran Phu St 503 Cua Dai Rd 93 Tran Phu St 89 Tran Cao Van St 70 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 37 Tran Phu St 36 Tran Hung Dao St 92 Le Loi St 42 Tran Phu St 86 Le Loi St 1 Nguyen Minh Khai St 627 Hai Bai Trung St 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 30 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Tran Phu St 162 Tran Phu St 06 Le Loi St 26 Tran Phu St 15 Phan Boi Chau St 91 Phan Chau Trinh St 91 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 111 Tran Phu St 102 Tran Phu St 273 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 2/6 Le Loi St 79 Phan Chau Trinh St 37 Tran Phu St0510 3861 764 53 Le Loi St

0510 3241 590 0510 3929 111 0510 3916 980 0510 3863 816 0510 3862 282 0510 3861 166 0510 3917 893 0510 3910 300 0510 3861 764 0510 3917 909 0510 3863 278 0510 3910 955 0510 3922 922 0510 3863 321

0510 3917 941 0510 3911 361 0510 3862 615 0510 3910 425 0510 3863 280 0510 3863 777 0510 3911 058 0510 3916 333 0510 3911 078 0510 3863 394 0510 3861 449 0510 3863 784 0510 3861357 0510 3861 426

152

Index Thu Linh II Tailor Thu Ly Cloth Shop Thu Thuy Silk Thuong Cloth Shop Thuong Gia Tailor Thong Phi Tailor Tina Design Tony the Tailor Toto Cloth shop Trang Tri Cloth Shop Vu Thu Cloth Shop Vy Vy Cloth Shop Yaly Couture Yamy Cloth Shop Yaly Leather Yen Dung Cloth Shop 23 Ba Trieu Cloth Shop 36 Le Loi Cloth Shop

153 40 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Hung Dao St 60 Le Loi St 16 Tran Hung Dao St 41 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 28 Le Loi St 14 Tran Hung Dao St 294 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 32-34 Ba Trieu St 63 Tran Hung Dao St 299 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Stall no1,Hoi An Clothes Market 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 11 Le Loi St 18 Tran Hung Dao St 405 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An 23 Ba Trieu St 36 Le Loi St

0510 3241 232 0510 3864 765 0510 3861 699 0510 3863 146 0510 3910 712 0510 3861 145 0510 3914 718 0510 3861 923 0510 3864 797 0510 3911 179 0510 3863 975 0510 2211 972 0510 3910 474 0510 3910 215 0510 3929 279 0905 769 808 0510 3962 111 0510 3910326

78 Le Loi St 27 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 10 Pham Hong Thai St 55 Hoang Dieu St 97 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 23 Hoang Dieu St 62 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 53A Le Loi St 82 Tran Phu St 96A Bach Dang St 12 Tran Quy Cap St 147 Tran Phu St 139 Tran Phu St 57Le Loi St 636 Hai Ba Trung St 125 Nguyen Duy Hieu St

0510 3910 411 01222 552 912 0905 550 062 0510 3862 353 0510 3864 020 0510 3914 135 0510 3910 589 0510 3917 889 0510 3911 483 0914 085 075 0510 3862 390 0510 3864 269 0908 043 100 0510 3917 930 0510 3939 394

Bao Anh Shoes Shop 311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Bao Long Shoe Shop 18 Nguyen Hue St Dinh Shoe Shop 33 Tran Phu St First Shoe Shop 275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Giay Viet Shoe Shop 635 Hai Ba Trung St Hieu Giay Shoes Shop 78 Bach Dang St Hue Kiem Shoes Shop 61 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Levy Shoes Shop 134 Tran Phu St Linh Shoe Shop 16 Tran Phu St New Fashion Shoe Shop 79 Phan Chu Trinh St Shoe Shop 09 65 Tran Hung Dao St Thien Long Shoe Shop 495 Cua Dai Rd Tin Bag & Shoe Shop 724 Hai Ba Trung St Tong Shoe Shop 26 Phan Boi Chau St 732 Nhi Trung Handbag & Shoe Shop 732 Nhi Trung St

0510 3914 594 0510 2212 483 0510 3911 655 0510 3914 373 0905 385 859 0510 3917 689 0510 6281 351 0510 3863 984 0510 3911 299 0510 3861 975 0510 3241 723 0510 3863 573 0510 3915 193 0510 3910 223 0510 3915 202 0510 3910 661

JEWELLERY

Anh Vu Silver Shop Au Christal D’Hoi An Bac Viet Jewellery Bien Bac Jewellery Joli Jewellery Lac Viet Jewellery Lo Lem Stering Silver Shop Lotus Jewellery Memory Jewellery No. 1 Jewellery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Phuc Thinh Jewellery Original Chain of Life Jewellery Quynh Giao Jewellery Water Lily

SHOE

Health and Wellness Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Ba Le Well Beauty Salon Bao Tram Spa Countryside Charm Spa Dentist, Nguyen Xuan Hai

49 Ba Trieu St 45/11 Tran Hung Dao St 496 Cua Dai Rd 512 Cua Dai Rd 13 Le Loi St

(Including Medical, Spa and Salons, Pharmacy) 0510 3917 972 0914 309 426 0905 999 267 0510 3501 584 0510 3861 513

Dentist, Do Pham Thanh Long 365 Le Duan St, Da Nang Dr: Ho Huu Phuoc 74 Le Loi St Essence of Health To 3, Khoi Thanh Tay, Cam Chau, Hoi An Family Medical Practice 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Fusion Lounge Express Spa 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Hoi An Day Spa 47 Ba Trieu St Herbalist, Pham Van Can 50 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Herbalist, Dui-Giao 265 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Huy Hoang Pharmacy 268 Ly Thuong Kiet St Life Spa, Life Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St Minh Tam Pharmacy 04 Tran Hung Dao St Na Spa 463 Cua Dai Rd Nam Hai Spa Hamlet 1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist. Nam Son Foot Massage 414 Cua Dai Rd Nina Nails 79 Ba Trieu St NQ Spa 446 Cua Dai Rd Ona Spa-Beauty Salon 45 Ba Trieu St Pacific Hospital 06 Phan Dinh Phung St Palm Spa & Salon Cua Dai Beach Palmarosa Spa 90 Ba Trieu St Qi Spa, Palm Garden Resort Cam An Ward Sen Nail & Spa 458 Cua Dai Rd Senses Spa 175 Cua Dai Rd Su Bi Spa 93 Ba Trieu St Tamarind Spa, Victoria Hotel Cua Dai Beach Tides Spa Ocean Villas Tin Duc Clinic 215 Nguyễn Duy Hiệu St Tuan Boy Beauty Salon 148 Nguyen Truong To St Vie Hyatt Regency, Da Nang Venus Spa 95 Ba Trieu St Zen Spa 10 Tran Hung Dao St 216 Pharmacy 03 Thai Phien St 230 Pharmacy 584 Cua Dai Rd

Entertainment Bamboo Bar Before & Now Bar Camel Club Chill Chill Bar Dive Bar Faifo Bar, Victoria Resort Hawaii Guitar Bar Heritage Bar Jaspa’s Beach Club La Plage Nam Bar New Phuong Dong Discotheque Q Bar Seventeen Saloon Tam Tam Bar Three Dragons Treat’s Bar Volcano Club White Marble Wine Bar Zero Seamile Beach Club Thanh Hien

0511 3705 059 0510 3861 419 0510 650 66 16 0949 925 860 0511 3582 699 0510 3930 333 0510 2222 723 0510 3910 194 01655 041 184 0510 3922 345 0989 397 162 0510 3916 312 0510 3914 555 0510 3914 606 0510 3914 199 0510 3940 000 0510 3924 939 0510 3501 768 0510 3924 990 0510 3862 890 0510 3921 398 0510 3927 927 0510 3933 999 0510 3927 927 0510 3861 819 0510 3864 800 0510 3917 884 0905 861 414 0510 3927 040 0511 3967 094 0510 3917 819 0905 960 365 0511 398 1234 0510 3501 854 0510 3911 588 0510 3863 753 0510 3862 302

(Including Nightclubs and Bars)

05 Bach Dang St, Da Nang 51 Le Loi St 16 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Da Nang 1 Tran Cao Van St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach Nguyen Duy Hieu St 01 Pham Hong Thai St Left side, An Bang Beach Far Right, An Bang Beach 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 20 Dong Da St ,Da Nang 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 76 Tran Hung Dao St, Da Nang 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St 51 Phan Boi Chau St 158 Tran Phu St 86 Ba Trieu St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach 113 Bach Dang St

0511 3826 029 0510 3910 599 0511 3887 462 091 352 30 28 0510 3910 782 0510 3927 040 0935 116 147 0510 3914 555 0510 3928 727 0510 3928 244 01213 141 524 0511 3825 092 0510 3911 964 0511 3530 987 0510 3862 212 0510 3914 742 0510 3861 125 0120 274 7016 0510 3911 862 0510 3911 911 0510 3862 134

154

Index

DAO TIEN RESTAURANT & TRAINING HOSPITALITY

Mini Marts & Wine

(Including Mini Marts, Groceries, Wine)

Amart AP Mart Bich Thuy Mini Mart & Wine Red Apron Dingo Deli Hanh Nga Mini Mart Mister-T Mini Mart Nga Toan Mini Mart Son Toan Mini Mart Trung – Van Wine Shop Tu Huong Groceries Van Toan Groceries Vine Group, Wines and Spirits

552 Hai Ba Trung St 501 Hai Ba Trung St 318 Ly Thuong Kiet St 185 Ly Thuong Kiet street. 229 Cua Dai Rd Near Tan An Market 639 Hai Ba Trung St 78 Dinh Tien Hoang St Hai Ba Trung St 49 Le Loi St 104 Nguyen Truong To St 177 Ly Thuong Kiet St 644 Hai Ba Trung St

0510 6260 168 0982 503 508 0510 3920 899 0510 3917 070 0906 552 824 0510 3917 210 0510 3929 025 0510 3917 210 0510 3919 152 0510 3910 105 0510 3924 563 0510 3861 416 0510 3917 922

Book Exchange Chanh Binh Photo Shop Kien Vinh Computer Shop Lan Lan Phone Shop Le Gia Computer Shop Legend DVD shop Mr Hung Book Store Phone Shop Photocopy Shop Randy’s Book Exchange Tam Phat Computer Shop Tan Thoi Phone Shop

43 Phan Boi Chau St 09 Pham Hong Thai St 586 Hai Ba Trung St 150 Nguyen Truong To St 276 Ly Thuong Kiet St 73 Phan Chau Trinh St 06 Nguyen Hue St 18 Ly Thuong Kiet St 189 Ly Thuong Kiet Cam Nam Village 11 Ba Trieu St 298 Ly Thuong Kiet

0510 3861 692 0510 3863 142 0510 3917 393 0972 757 767 0510 3920 969 0510 3936 159 0510 3910 405 0510 3921 371 0510 3916 109 0936 089 483 0510 3917 952 0510 3934 444

Books, Computers, DVDs, Mobile Phones, Photo Shop

Feature Your Business in Live Hoi An

• The only FREE Monthly Published Map & Events Listings in Hoi An • The only locally-run FREE ENGLISH MAGAZINE in the Hoi An / Da Nang region aimed at tourists • 10,000 maps distributed per month and 7,000 magazines per quarter • Free listings and icon on the map with all advertising Contact Sales & Marketing: Neil: 01289 473124 or our Office 0510 392 0889

We distribute to over 100 outlets! Find copies of Live Hoi An at:

Al Fresco’s, avAna, Banyan, Before N Now, Cargo Club, Cham Island Dive Bar, Da Nang Airport, Danang Golf Club Dingo Deli, Green Chili, Green Mango, Hot Chili, Hyatt Regency Danang, JBC, La Plage, Life Heritage Resort, Lotus Jewellery, Montgomerie Links, Morning Glory, Palmarosa, Soul Kitchen, STREETS, Tam Tam, Victoria Hotel, Waterfront, White Marble, Yaly, Zippang … to name just a few.

www.livehoian.com

Consistently voted in the top 10 of Hoi An restaurants on Trip Advisor, the Dao Tien restaurant will not disappoint even the most sophisticated of culinary experts. Delicious cuisine that is presented with a flair that is unique to Hoi An, Dao Tien is the combined effort of husband/wife team Ms Dao Thi Tien and Chef Le Quoc Viet. The money bags here are famous throughout the country. But then again, everything on the menu is worth sampling. So is their cooking class. Learn the art of Vietnamese cuisine in a more intimate space than most cooking classes and from one of Hoi An’s most experienced chefs. Ms. Tien also founded Dao Tien Hospitality Training Program for vulnerable young people, providing youths with vocational skills in hospitality service or culinary arts together with a hospitality English program and a comprehensive life skills training program. Dining at Dao Tien helps support the training program. 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An - Tel: 0510.3.914.996 Email: daotienhoian@yahoo.com Web: www.daotienhoian.com

156

Index Hoi An is a laid back place with problems rarely surfacing, however, we have listed important numbers for you to call should you have any health, safety or other concerns. If you have any feedback for us about what else should be included, we invite you to write us an email: amy@livehoian.com

Emergency Family Medical Practice, Danang 0913 917 303 Hoi An 0903 597 997

Hoi An Police Station (0510) 3 861 204 Hoi An Tourism Authority (0510) 3 861 327 Hoi An Hospital (0510) 861 364 (0510) 3 861 480 Hoi An Taxi Corporation (0510) 3919919 (0510) 3 862 952 Extension) (0510) 3910093 Mai Linh Taxi Corporation (0510) 3914914

Reporting Crime The department of Foreign Affairs and the Da Nang Police Department have worked together to give foreigners in the area English speaking hotlines for use in emergencies. The main contact details are listed below: 78 Le Loi St, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)5113 860247 Crime Tel: +84 (0)905 113038 Foreign Affairs Tel: +84 (0) 5113 743791 Immigration

light up your life

LONG VY LANTERNS

• Lantern-making workshop for 60,000VND pax includes souvenirs • Wholesale and retail sales. Can ship overseas and do large orders 1

06 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoi An - www.hoianlantern.com.vn longdenlongvy@gmail.com - 0510 360 6611 – 0908 664 731

COUTURE Made-to-measure

Ad 1: 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An. T. 0510.3910474 Ad 2: 47 Tran Phu, Hoi An. T. 0510.3861119 Ad 3: 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu, Hoi An. T. 0510.3914995 Email: yalyshop@dng.vnn.vn - Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Website: www.yalycouture.com