Travel Savvy 2010 London to San Fran WIth Love by Travel Savvy

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TABLE OF CONTENTS: 03 Chef Mario Batali Food & Wine Festivals 05 5 for 15: Critic Ben Mankeweicz’s Movie Picks 06 Savvy Reader: Adelaide, Australia SAVVY FOCUS: LONDON 09 Kathleen Turner’s London Hotel Picks 10 Daniel Tolson: London By Design 11 Rita Konig: Hotels 12 Lulu Guiness Shops London 13 Robin Ward: Fry Up 14 24 Hrs In: Journalist Hadley Freeman SAVVY FOCUS: SAN FRANCISCO 16 Will Durst: Favorite Ferries 17 Meredith Thomas: Somewhere Green 18 Blog Expert: Kay Chu Dining 19 Chef David Shalleck’s Restaurant Picks 20 Savvy Reader: Kerry Fischer TRAVEL MEDIA: 21 Afar Magazine’s Greg Sullivan: Greatest Adventures

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Travel Savvy | FROM THE PUBLISHER

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Greetings Traveler

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We’re back! And boy, does it feel good to be online after a 3-year hiatus. That’s right, Travel Savvy has officially relaunched at www.trvlsvvy.com, where we’re continuing the tradition of providing insights and secrets about your travel destinations in list format. I originally had a long and detailed explanation of Travel Savvy’s journey back to life after three years of “list”-lessness. After a long discussion with the editors and creative director over a plate of fresh pappardelle with rabbit ragu, I think it’s best to sum up our comeback with just one word: Lavagna. It’s a restaurant right here in New York City’s Lower East Side that does not get a ton of fanfare or press, yet Lavagna is-in essence-what ‘local travel’ is all about. Tucked away among the neighborhood bodegas and dive bars where you can still pop in for a can of 2-buck Pabst, Lavagna is not going to be the first restaurant given by a concierge but it should be. That’s the ultimate point of Savvy, to help you find some place that makes your trip special, we want you to feel like a local. Certainly Lavagna is not alone in the universe; it is Travel Savvy’s mission to find every Lavagna from Boston to Perth, and with your help, we will. Like the original Travel Savvy, we are asking you to contribute; send us a list from your hometown of where you love to eat and drink, what you like to do and see, and where you like to shop and linger. Share your local secrets with savvy readers (we’ll make sure they share back) and we’ll all be better for it. TRAVEL SAVVY MAGAZINE

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Happy Travels. Craig M. Pavia Publisher

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Travel Savvy | SPOTLIGHT

boasts an enviable wine trail, complete with sweeping hilltop views of expansive ranches and cozy B&Bs. The weekend culminates with the annual Sunday Texas Wine & Food Fair at Austin’s renown Vineyards at the Salt Lick.

Mario Batali’s 4 Fabulous Food Festivals

New Orleans Food and Wine Experience

Who better to ask than Mario Batali, owner of eight of the Big Apple’s most acclaimed Italian restaurants, including Babbo, Otto and the much-lauded superristorante Del Posto. Plus, he’s a true lover of food festivals, which combine business with pleasure.

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New Orleans, LA, 504-529-WINE www.nowfe.com

Contributed by Mario Batali

If food is love, then a multi-day affair dedicated to its most delectable incarnations is as good as it gets. Food festivals are a chance for everyone to revel in a feast for the senses. The trick is to find the right one; it needs to satisfy particular tastes, in both food and destination.

food cuisine. The big N’awlinsstyle finish is the closing day’s spectacular 3-hour Louisiana Seafood Cook-Off event, which will pair French Quarter jazz with food and flavor from 75 Chefs and 1000 vintages from wineries around the world. Memorial Day Weekend. The full package, which includes six seminars, Vinola Tasting and Auction admission, Royal Street

According to Batali, the best give you a taste for local culture and food, and a place to “exchange info and ideas.” Here are Batali’s top picks, as diverse and original as the man himself.

Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival Austin, TX 512-249-6300 www.texaswineandfood.org

While the Lone Star state is better known for its artery-clogging troika of chili, chickenfried steak and BBQ, it hosts the second-largest food festival in the country. The Texas Hill Country Wine and Food Festival is celebrating its 25th anniver-

sary this Spring, and combines down-home local fare with sophisticated international offerings. Each year has a particular theme; past ones have included “Retro Texas” and “Flavors of Spain.” The Festival attracts notable chefs, restaurateurs, grill masters, and food writers, from famed BBQ king Bobby Flay to noted Aspen sommelier Richard Betts. Highlights include a fine-wine auction, a grand tasting, winery luncheons and seminars, and cooking classes--all set to a near-constant soundtrack of live local bands. Though wine, with its erudite language and upper-class posturing, seems decidedly unTexan, the state’s Hill Country

The New Orleans Food and Wine Experience capitalizes on the city’s reputation for distinct regional fare, like gumbo and crawfish. The festival combines food and wine tastings with immersion in “the city’s art, architecture, music and rare antiques,” notes Batali. The Royal Street Stroll gives attendees a chance to enjoy these things in one evening, including stops in a few excellent live jazz clubs. The event’s Vintner’s Dinners offer prix-fixe meals at an esteemed city restaurant that are paired with wines from a participating vineyard; costs range from $75 to $125. Among the eight 2010 seminar offerings, there will be a Meritage tasting, a pastry shop walk for those with a serious sweet tooth, and an exploration of Gulf Coast sea-

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Stroll, all Grand Tastings and VIP credentials, costs $695. [continued on pg. 4]

Travel Savvy | SPOTLIGHT

Food & Wine Classic

Hudson Valley Wine and Food Festival

Aspen, CO, 877.900.WINE www.foodandwine.com/ext/classic

Rhinebeck, NY, 888-687-2517 www.hudsonvalleywinefest.com

The oldest and biggest of the American festivals, the Aspen classic is in its 27th year, and strictly top-tier, boasting an allstar lineup of celebrity chefs and super sommeliers. Batali is on the roster for 2010, leading a demonstration called “Best of Ligurian Cooking.” Prestigious Frenchman Jacques Pepin and daughter Claudine will teach a class called “Great Desserts in Minutes” while celebrated culinary expert Tom Colicchio will present “In The Kitchen With Top Chef.” Added bonus: Since many movie stars have homes here they are frequently spotted sampling gourmet foods at the Grand Tasting pavilions, massive white tents with the Rockies as a backdrop. Finally, a Classic Cook-Off promises some competitive action, while an awards ceremony honoring the year’s “Best New Chefs” rounds off the weekend.

For an affair with less flash and more history, the Hudson Valley Wine and Food Festival, about 90 minutes from Manhattan, is a relaxing, low-key effort. Set in the picturesque basin that inspired the Hudson River School of Painting, this is where Batali loves to soak up “the timeless beauty of the Catskills countryside.” The 2-day event takes place at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds in Rhinebeck, NY, and features wines from approximately 50 award-winning New York vineyards, cooking instructions, gourmet food samplings from the region’s best restaurants and caterers, vendor showcases of home accessories and wine-related crafts, and live music. Historical B&Bs are abundant throughout the valley. A variety of ticket types are available, including lodging packages; check the website for details.

Wanna Eat Mario’s Food? Mario Batali’s Restaurant List: www.mariobatali.com

B&B Ristorante Las Vegas, Nevada

Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca New York City, New York

Bar Jamon New York City, New York

Carnevino Italian Steakhouse

s a list u d n Se t? er xp e n a Thi n k you’re k it out, ec h c ll e’ W . . al c lo where you’re a , you c a n be featured i n a n d if we like it our n ext issue.

Osteria Mozza

OTTO Enoteca Pizzeria New York City, New York

Pizzeria Mozza

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Los Angeles, California

The Spotted Pig New York City, New York

Tarry Lodge Portchester, New York

Del Posto New York City, New York

Enoteca San Marco Las Vegas, Nevada

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Los Angeles, California

Las Vegas, Nevada

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Lupa New York City, New York

Mozza2Go Los Angeles, California

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Travel Savvy | FIVE FOR FIFTEEN

FIVE FOR FIFTEEN

1. “Out of Sight,” directed

5. “The Paper,” directed by

By Steven Soderbergh (1998). Now, here are four more to help Ron Howard (1994). I realize I risk all credibility you pass the time between have to be...what’s the right Why this movie isn’t seen as a when I start this list with a Jentempting meals served aloft. word? Funny. And this story of work of pure genius escapes nifer Lopez film, but for what longtime friends celebrating me. As a former reporter, I it’s worth, this predates the 2. “Hell is for Heroes,” diand mourning together meets believe this is the best jourJ-Lo media hype. And guess rected by Don Siegel (1962). that standard. Hugh Grant is nalism movie to come out of what? She’s really good. This World War II story stars Movie Critic Ben Mankiewicz’s But what makes the film Steve McQueen and Bob Ne- great, but so’s the rest of the Hollywood in years. It’s essenoutstanding ensemble cast. tially the story of the managfive movies for a fifteen so memorable, so sharp, whart. What a natural pairing, The movie came out nearly 15 ing editor of the New York Daily hour flight— and so funny is the script, writthose two. It turns out, they years ago, but I still try to use News (called “The Sun”), who’s ten by Scott Frank from Elmore pretty much hated each other the word “skulking” as often as considering an offer from the Business or coach, everyone likes Leonard’s terrific novel (they’re during shooting. And never possible. “Times” (called “The World”). to watch a good movie or two all terrific) and the perfect permade up. It’s an oddly realistic Meanwhile, he’s got to figure while traveling across time zones. formances from the ensemble war film. Odd considering the 4. “Notorious,” directed by out how to cover what appears That’s what Five For Fifteen is all cast: George Clooney, Dennis sixties wasn’t an era of gritty Alfred Hitchcock (1946). to be a typical New York hate about--we ask you to name the Farina, Ving Rhames, Albert reality. But Siegel is a vastly Any number of Hitchcock films crime. Michael Keaton is senfive movies you’ll watch during Brooks, Luis Guzman and Cathunderrated director who generwould be acceptable, but sational, but so is Glenn Close, a long flight. Each month, we’ll erine Keener, among others. ally managed to do something something always draws me Marisa Tomei, Robert Duvall select our favorite Five For Fifteen But two stand out – Don Cheaspecial with nearly all his films. to “Notorious.” You’ve got Cary and Randy Quaid. Pretty good list to publish in our digital issue. dle and Steve Zahn are flat out Despite the heavy subject matGrant and Ingrid Bergman, who cast for a movie few remember. For our debut issue, Travel Savvy phenomenal. It’s the story of a ter and major star power in Mcare worth watching, I suppose. I get angry that this film was tapped movie critic Ben Mankielikable bank robber (Clooney) Queen, it’s Newhart who owns And you’ve got Claude Raines, largely ignored. It’s not wicz, and he obliged with the and the strange, but oddly bethe film. He does his classic so good in everything, but here, only very funny and poifollowing list. lievable relationship he develone-sided phone call routine to he somehow manages to be gnant but – dare I say in ops with J-Lo (yes, J-Lo), the fool the Germans. It’s a memoAre these the best five movies both terrifying and weak simulan era where the press is U.S. Marshal trying to catch rably funny moment in a great ever? Hardly. Are they my favortaneously. And then there’s that too comfortable getting it him. When I walked out of the film. ite five movies? I doubt it. But last scene. No gun. No knife. wrong – it’s also an importheater 10 years ago after seethey are five films I truly love. Just a walk down a staircase tant movie. ing “Out of Sight,” I thought, “If 3. “Four Weddings and a Films that move me more today in front of everyone. And the every movie made me feel this Funeral,” directed by Mike than when I first saw them. And question – will Claude Raines Now sit back, put your seat way, I’d go to the movies every Newell (1994). I wanted to innothing would make me look say anything? It’s great tension in a reclining position, do night.” You won’t have that feelclude a romantic comedy beforward to fifteen hours in an and a vintage Hitchcockian mowhatever you want with ing because, well, you’re on a cause I, um...because I think it’s aluminum tube at 37,000 feet ment. your tray table and enjoy. plane. But you will love this film. important to include...OK, I love more than getting to spend romantic comedies. But they them with these movies.

From our Travel Savvy Friends: Top Travel Movies as voted by our readers—

1. Catch Me If You Can

(2002) Leonardo DiCaprio, Tom Hanks directed by Steven Spielberg

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2. Lost In Translation

(2003) Scarlett Johansson, Bill Murray directed by Sofia Coppola

3. North By Northwest

(1959) Cary Grant, Eva Marie Saint by Hitchcock

4. Borat

(2006) Sacha Cohen, Pam Anderson directed by Larry Charles

5. The Motorcycle Diaries

(2004) Gael Garcia Bernal, Rodrigo de la Serna directed by Walter Salles

Sentimental Favorite:

*Time Bandits

(1981) John Cleese, Sean Connery directed by Terry Gilliam

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Travel Savvy | READER SUBMISSION

ReaderSub mission: Adelaide Australia Submitted by Ilana long-time Pavia, resident of Adelaide, and now proud owner of a new olympus camera courtesy of Willoughby’s Camera in Manhattan.

Founded in 1836, this carefully planned bastion of progressiveness has become Australia’s unofficial festival capital as well as a mecca for food and music. Here are Travel Savvy reader Ilana Pavia’s top picks for a night on the town:

Savvy Bar & Lounge Parisi’s 613 Magill Rd., Magill; 83318844; parisis.com.au

Feast Restaurant

Dining out in style Enzo’s Ristorante 308 Port Rd., Hindmarsh; 61-8346-2786 For the most authentic Italian food in town, stop at this cozy place owned by immigrants Damiano and Enzo Fazzari. Thanks to lessons from mama, the Fazzaris specialize in traditional, rustic fare that draws a crowd. Dishes are generous and affordable.

Firle Shopping Plaza, 151-161 Glynburn Road, Firle; 08-83318822; feastrestaurant.com.au/ Its slogan is “more than just Asian,” but this casual panAsian eatery should call itself “a local fave.” Expect a wait for such dishes as char-grilled lemongrass chicken, sizzling garlic prawns, and green curry vegetables. “The food is good value for the money and tastes great,” raves Ilana.

Don’t leave Adelaide without tasting the pizzas at this Italian restaurant, owned and operated by the famed Parisi family. Choose from more than 15 pies, from the traditional like marinara and Sicilian to the out-of-this-world like the nero (olive tapenade, fresh tomato, Bulgarian feta and rockets) and patata (bacon, spring onions, sliced potatos, rosemary, and a drizzle of olive oil).

149 Waymouth St. 61-8-221-6030 hq At one point, Ilana could be found here every weekend night. The lounge is spacious enough to sprawl and the dance floor, with its fabulous lighting, makes dancing a joy. “The atmosphere is more relaxed,” says Ilana, “and everyone is there to have a good night and dance.”

Dancing the night away Electric Circus 17-19 Crippen Place; 61-8-2121117; electriccircus.com.au Looking to let your hair down? Then this cute nightclub is the place. Neon colors, a retro 1980s atmosphere, and music from some of the biggest names in the industry give this place “a funky vibe that could be wicked chilled or a party atmosphere,” says Ilana.

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9 Bed, Bath and Beyond: Kathleen Turner’s Sultry Picks for London Hotels

TOLSON'S LONDON BY DESIGN

RitaKonig: LondonHotels

Lulu ness Guin s Shopon Lond

24 hrs In: Hadley

Freeman

Robin Ward: Fry Up Spectacular

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Travel Savvy | LONDON

Covent Garden Hotel THUMBS

10 Monmouth Street London WC2H

Bed, Bath and Beyond Kathleen Turner’s Sultry Picks for London Hotels With her smoky-voice and hip-swiveling bravado, Kathleen Turner raises the heat in any performance. Whether it’s lighting up Broadway in Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? in London or playing hilarious and oversexed agent Sue Collini on Showtime’s Californication, Turner’s femme fatale act scores with audiences. She’s also published her memoirs in an upbeat and sexy autobiography, Send Yourself

9HB T: 011-44-20-7806-1000 www.firmdale.com/covent.html MARK

Roses: Thoughts on My Life, Love, and Leading Roles. Off stage, Turner favors sensuous hotels—here are her picks for the sultriest in London. 51 Buckingham Gate 1 Buckingham Gate, London, SW1E 6AF T: 011-44-20-7769-7766 www.51-buckinghamgate.com

Visitors to 51 Buckingham Gate get lost in the romance of Shakespeare with the lon-

gest frieze in the world—featuring scenes from A Midsummer Night’s Dream and As You Like It. The 82 suites and long-term apartments have played host to presidents, princes and rock stars. An exclusive townhouse residence minutes from Buckingham Palace and other Pall Mall attractions, it specializes in service. A private entrance and Ivor Spencer–trained butlers put a premium on discretion while the luscious textiles, in muted pastels and rich earth tones, ensure a soothing, sophisticated atmosphere.

Turner raves about the hotel bed, which she deems the most comfortable ever. The 58-room intimate hotel is decorated in dusty rose and peach-tone- colored wood furniture while the reception desk is framed by voluminous drapes that resemble stage curtains, a nod to the nearby West End theater district. Turner especially loves the drawing room—a room filled with plush mismatched furnishings and carved wooden desks, which leads into the Tiffany Library. For those lucky enough to book the Loft Suite, a drawing room, study, fireplace and two levels of living space are at their disposal.

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Travel Savvy | LONDON

LONDON BY DESIGN Contributed by Daniel Tolson

6 BEST VINTAGE MODERN-DESIGN STORES London dealers are renowned for carrying an impressive inventory of mid-20th-century pieces. Daniel Tolson, a modern-design expert at Christie’s, tapped these 6 shops as extraordinary.

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TWENTY-TWENTY ONE ISLINGTON Cutting-edge furniture, lighting and vintage merchandise. www.twentytwentyone.com/ 274 Upper Street, London N1 2UA T: +44 (0) 20 7288 1996

THEMES & VARIATIONS NOTTING HILL Quality pieces from London-based designers to rare Fornasetti plates. 231 WESTBOURNE GROVE, W11 2SE www.themesandvariations.com/ Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7727 5531

ORIGIN 101 ISLINGTON Strong general selection from 1920 to 1970. www.davidtatham.com 25 Camden Passage, London N1 8EA T: +44 (0) 20 7704 1326 2 COLUMBIA ROAD EAST END Unusual pop pieces sold with vintage prints and posters. www.twocolumbiaroad.co.uk/ 2 Columbia Road, London E2 7NN T: +44 (0) 20 7729 9933

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PLANET BAZAAR Specializes in Pop art, furniture, lighting and accessories. www.planetbazaar.co.uk Arch 68, The Stables Market Chalk Farm Road, London NW1 8AH 44(0) 207 485 6000

DOMUS NOTTING HILL Opened in 2005. Primarily American, Scandinavian and Italian focus. www.domusgallery.co.uk/ 15 Needham Road, London W11 2 RP T: +44 (0) 20 7221 1666

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Travel Savvy |

LONDON

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RitaKonig: London Hotels Rita Konig dubbed a “Design It Girl” by The New York Times, also writes a lifestyle column for Harper’s Bazaar, the Saturday Telegraph Magazine and British Vogue. Her books include Domestic Bliss and Rita’s Culinary Trickery: How to Get Dinner on the Table Even if You Can’t Cook. Here she gives the 5 most charming London hotels-some traditional, some modern meccas.

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NO. 11 CADOGAN GARDENS

PORTOBELLO HOTEL

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www.no11london.com/home.html 11 CADOGAN GARDENS, KNIGHTSBRIDGE, LONDON, SW3 2RJ T: +44 (0) 20 7730 7000

22 STANLEY GARDENS LONDON, W11 2NG T: +44 (0) 20 7727 2777 www.portobellohotel.co.uk

A stone’s throw from Sloane Square, Understated, with a hint of aristocratic. Reportedly design guru Philippe Starck’s favorite London hotel.

Great Notting Hill location with canopy beds and king-size tubs.

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SOHO HOTEL

DUKES HOTEL

www.firmdale.com 4 Richmond Mews London W1D 3DH T: +44 (0) 20 7559 3000

www.dukeshotel.com St James’s Place, London SW1A 1NY Tel +44 (0) 20 7491 4840

The hot hotel has a sexy location in the heart of Soho and trad-modern, eclectic styling. The Crimson Bar is infused with Moroccan touches.

A deluxe Georgian pile in a cul-de-sac near Piccadilly. Large, but with a country–house fell and intimate atmosphere. James Bond creator Ian Fleming stayed here, and Dukes martinis were the inspiration for his “shaken, not stirred” line. (Note: A Leading Hotels of the World)

THE CONNAUGHT www.the-connaught.co.uk/ Carlos Place Mayfair London. W1K 2AL T: +44 (0)20 7499 7070 Big hotels also have their pluses. The Connaught provides proper old-fashioned, good concierge service. It has always been a bit low-key and chic.

Travel Savvy | LONDON SHOPPING

THEMES & VARIATIONS

231 WESTBOURNE GROVE, W11 2SE Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7727 5531 www.themesandvariations.com/

Lulu Guinness is famed for her singular handbags-and her eclectic tastes. Her two shops in London are destinations for fashionistas traveling to The Square Mile.

Specializes in postwar and contemporary design.

VESSEL

114 KENSINGTON PARK ROAD, W11 2PW telephone: +44 207 727 8001 www.vesselgallery.com

Wonderful objects by English and Italian designers that you don’t see anywhere else.

HUMMINGBIRD BAKERY

133 PORTOBELLO ROAD, W11 2DY Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7229 6446 www.hummingbirdbakery.com

Amazing iced fairy cakes.

4 COOLEST SHOPS IN LONDON ACCORDING TO LULU GUINNES RELLIK

8 GOLBOURNE ROAD, W10 5NW +44 (0) 20 8962 0089 www.relliklondon.co.uk

Brilliant vintage and customized clothes that you don’t see anywhere else. Lulu Guinness London: 3 ELLIS ST., SWI X 9AL Lulu Guinness Royal Exchange: 23 ROYAL EXCHANGE, THREADNEEDLE STREET, EC3V 3LR WWW.LULUGUINNESS.COM

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Travel Savvy | LONDON EATS

London

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FryUp Spectacular

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Contributed by Robin Ward Robin Ward of London submitted this Local List of his picks for best authentic ‘Fry-Up.’ When the fancy strikes, this 23-year old Bath native prefers one of the following places to enjoy a proper brunch.

Best Places for the Fry Up: 1. The Albion 10 Thornhill Rd, Islington, N1 1HW. www.the-albion.co.uk/ T: + 44 (0) 20 7607 7450

3. Bistrotetheque 23-27 Wadeson Street, London, E2 9DR www.bistrotheque.com/ T: +44 (0)20 8983 7900

Menu lists “THE ALBION FULL ENGLISH” for £9.50. Nice area, Also does private events.

4. The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly London W1J 9EB www.thewolseley.com/ T: +44 (0) 20 7499 6996

2. Fifteen London 15 Westland Place, N1 7LP www.fifteen.net/restaurants/fifteenlondon/Pages/default.aspx T: +44 (0)870 787 1515

A ‘F ry-U

p’ is

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Located right in central on the Strand.

Jamie Oliver’s restaurant and where both my housemates used to work. Serves a great high-end fry up.

the engl i pudd sh term ing, fo bake r a fu sati ll b d be fyin rea ans, g m and toma kfast o dinn eal ha f eg to, s a er. occa sion Lond lso be mushroo gs, bac come on, ms a add s; rare oners s n a d choo ly d hash ausage, 10 p popu s o oint lar e t b bloo he s to we eat choi rowns. d ‘ f ce this ry our T h i f u s or p chol d lunc este aily le ’ for h s rol s p each t we wi ecial s h to time .

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Activities at the V&A Museum of Childhood

Travel Savvy | 24 HOURS IN : LONDON

24 hrs in: London

Contributed by HADLEY FREEMAN

London has been around since AD 43, when the Romans sought to make the British Isles part of their empire. But visitors can conquer the city in 24 hours. Hadley Freeman, the Guardian’s deputy fashion editor and a contributing editor to Vogue UK, shares her thoughts on what can’t be missed.

Hot Bar Lounge Lover 1 Whitby St. E1 6JU; 020-7012-1234 loungelover.co.uk

Best Place to Get a Pint The Windsor Castle 114 Campden Hill Rd. W8 7AR; 020-7243-9551 windsorcastlepub.co.uk

It’s not actually anywhere near Queen Elizabeth’s home, Windsor Castle, but guests once were able to get a clear view of the palace from the pub, hence its name. A fantastic garden in the back, delicious food and lots of centuries-old indoor nooks and crannies make this pub a local favorite.

Best Breakfast

The Wolseley 160 Piccadilly W1J 9EB; 020-7499-6996; thewolseley.com Originally the showroom of Wolseley Motors Ltd, the

space reopened in 2003 as a café and restaurant. And there is no better way to start the day than to have a proper English breakfast in a beautiful room overlooking Green Park. The space may be grand but the food is affordable.

Best Shopping

Dover Street Market 17-18 Dover St. W1S 4LT; 020-7518-0680; doverstreetmarket.com The brainchild of Comme des Garcons designer Rei Kawakubo, this indoor malllike space has become the London attraction for the style cognoscenti. The fourstory space features one-ofa kind and specially selected stock from Rei’s friends and favorite designers, including Albar Elbaz for Lanvin, Azzedine Alaia, and Junya Watanabe. Freeman recently spotted Marc Jacobs and John Galliano hanging out in the upstairs café.

Best Art Destination

The V&A Museum of Childhood Cambridge Heath Rd. E2 9PA; 020-8983-5200; museumofchildren.org.uk Part of the Victoria & Albert museum system, this quirky venue is as much for children as for adults. In addition to housing the largest collection of childhoodrelated objects in the U.K., dating back to the 16th century, the space stages some cool exhibits. Currently on show: a show that examines our obsession with space, while another features buildings created by artist Jaimini Patel using sweets that date back from the colonial trade.

Can’t miss destination

The London Eye Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Road SE1 7PB; 0870-5000600; londoneye.com

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Hidden gem

Columbia Flower Market Columbia Rd.; 020 7377 8963 Sunday mornings 8am to 2pm. colombiaroad.info Come early and see an explosion of color from the many flower stalls on this east London street. This local institution offers a real taste of what London street markets once were, especially now that Portobello has become so touristy.

Once considered London’s biggest folly, this giant observation wheel is a fantastic and fun way to see the city.

Interior © V&A Museum of Childhood

Tucked away on a side street in East London, this former meatpacking facility is now a fabulously overthe-top, verging on the baroque, bar. No wonder Madonna chose to hold her 48th birthday celebration

here. The drinks are almost as amazing as the décor; they range from the classic to the deliciously neon.

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Savvy Reader: Local Favorites

18 19

Shalleck’s Favorites

From Here to There San Francisco 5 Must-Ride Dining Ferries 17 Somewhere Green: 5 Must-See Parks

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Travel Savvy | SAN FRANCISCO

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San Francisco

From Here to There 5 MustRide Ferries Contributed by Will Durst

San Francisco-based political satirist Will Durst has been called “a modern-day Will Rogers” by the Los Angeles Times. A five-time Emmy nominee, he writes several internet columns and his commentary can be heard on PRI’s “Marketplace.”

A selfp r o claimed cheeseburger expert, Durst counts Thomas Jefferson and Bugs Bunny among his heroes, and is captivated by the ferryboats in San Francisco Bay. For inthe-know visitors, ferries are considered as one of the best ways to see the Bay Area. Durst shares 5 trips worth taking; check sites for information on schedules, fares and applicable discounts.

Building. In the evening, the bar is open for the return trip, which is festive on Fridays. These high-speed ferries run hourly throughout the day, ideal for a day-tripping tourist. Also lovely is the Sausalito route. “Shooting across the bay, I feel as if I am in a Dashiell Hammett novel,” Durst says. Fares start at $7.85; kids 5 and under go free, senior/youth discounts/commuter discounts available-check website.

Golden Gate Ferry Larkspur to San Francisco Golden Gate T: 415-455-2000 or 511 www.goldengateferry.org

The Angel Island-Tiburon Ferry T: 415-435 2131 www.angelislandferry.com Angel Island is a state park, an undeveloped bit of paradise in the middle of the bay. The 10-minute ferry ride starts at Tiburon landing in Marin County and takes you to a rural world packed with history. A short walk from the Angel Island dock is the Immigration Station, the first American call for many Chinese detained be-

This 35-minute commute is one of the most beautiful in the world. In the morning, boats depart from the heart of Marin County, deposit workers at San Francisco’s Ferry

cause of restrictive laws. It’s now a museum; check out the poems carved in the walls by detainees. On a brighter note, Angel Island beaches are ideal for sun bathing and picnicking. Remember: you can’t drive here. Boats leave at 10 and 11 a.m. with afternoon return trips. Round trip tickets start at $13.50. Baylink Ferries of Vallejo T: 707-648-4349 www.baylinkferry.com For a long relaxing one-hour cruise up the San Francisco Bay, hop on the boat to Vallejo. It travels hourly midday, halfhour during commute times, on twin-hull Baylink boats that depart from the Ferry Building. Speed past Alcatraz, pass under the Richmond-San Rafael Bridge and head to where the Sacramento River spills into the bay. Once in Vallejo, wander around this old river town and enjoy a seafood lunch at the Front Room restaurant with a view of Mare Island Strait. $13 oneway.

Alameda Oakland Ferry T: 510-7495972 www.eastbayferry.com Durst calls the experience of being in a ferryboat “gorgeous,” no matter the weather. “The Alameda Oakland Ferry, running hourly during commutes, every two hours midday, goes to the island city Alameda, just off Oakland. It’s like stepping into the Victorian era. The tree-shaded streets and stately houses are freezeframed in time; the Park Street shops are a postcard of 1950s America. The ferry also serves Jack London Square in Oakland. Rent a boat and paddle around the Oakland Estuary or sit at the First & Last Chance Saloon, which claims to have served the writer before he became famous. $12.50 round-trip

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Blue & Gold Fleet ‘Escape from the Rock’ Cruise T: 415-705-0555 www.blueandgoldfleet.com/Escape/index.cfm Don’t miss the 90-minute ride to visit the retired maximumsecurity prison, Alcatraz. Stand at the back for a sweeping view of downtown San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge. Listen to the narration of the prison’s past, which included housing America’s most wanted criminals such as Al Capone, the Birdman and Machine Gun Kelley. This tour doesn’t land on the prison’s island; leaves and returns from Pier 39. Adult tickets $22.00.

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Somewhere Green: 5 Must-See Parks Contributed by Meredith Thomas San Francisco parks are part of its very identity, so if you want to feel the real vibe of the Bay City, head outside. With over 230 parks to choose from, finding the right one can be overwhelming. Meredith Thomas, executive director of the San Francisco Neighborhood Parks Council, (www.sfnpc.org) gives you her 5 must-see picks below.

Washington Square Park North Beach/Telegraph Hill Starting with Tai Chi in the a.m., this North Beach park hosts activities from morning to night—from all-day art fairs to jazz concerts. Notable as the first place in California to raise the American flag in 1846, it also houses Caffe Trieste (609 Vallejo St. @ Grant; 415-982-2605; www.caffetrieste.com), the first espresso coffeehouse on the West Coast, established in 1956. Their lattes are heavenly, and an Italian waiter might even serenade you as you sip.

Rincon Park The Embarcadero Along the San Francisco Bay, a few steps from the Ferry Building on the Embarcadero, is the new 2-acre Rincon Park. Funded by the Gap, whose head office overlooks the park, Rincon is framed by the Bay Bridge and marked by Cupid’s Span, a giant metal bow-and-arrow sculpture designed by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen. The

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Mission Dolores Park Mission District historic streetcars, the palm trees lining the Embarcadero and its next-door neighbor, AT&T Park, home to the San Francisco Giants, give the space an old-new feel. Just watch out for joggers.

South Park South Park Street, SoMA/ South of Market area Two blocks up Third Street, to the right of AT&T Park, is a hidden jewel box of a park. Less than an acre, this 19thcentury South of Market park hosts the hip working set taking after-work strolls during the week. On weekends, neighbors are either gossiping on the benches or eating lunch at The Butler and the Chef Bistro, a French eatery hosted by an American butler. 155A South Park St.; 415-8962075; www.oralpleasureinc. com.

Buena Vista Park Haight-Ashbury/Buena Vista Heights A quick ride on the No. 6 bus or N-line MUNI (21st-century streetcars). Buena Vista is, as its name suggests, resplendent with views of the bay, the Pacific and colorful Victorian houses. The 36-acre park houses a tennis court, playgrounds and a monthly treeplanting party. Buena Vista’s cypress- and eucalyptuscovered slopes offer an unruly nature preserve—without having to leave the city. Winding paths, heavily wooded areas and no method to the exquisite madness prevail. The park is uphill from Haight Street, still a hippie hangout.

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A people-watching location, this Mission District park offers lots of sunbathing and join-in kickball games. Named by the Franciscans, who named almost everything in the state, the valley was discovered the Friday before Palm Sunday. Desperate for a name, they choose “Dolores,” which means sadness in Spanish, to mark the solemnity of the occasion. This 4-acre San Francisco park, a hometown favorite, is awash in ice-cream carts, happy dogs and Frisbees flying overhead. Grab a pastry or sandwich from Tartine (600 Guerro St. at 18th; 415-487-2600, www. tartinebakery.com). When the light fades, head downtown on the J-line at the northwest corner of the park or grab the 16th St. BART a few blocks away.

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Travel Savvy | SAN FRANCISCO

San Francisco Dining, ByKay Chu Born in one of the food capitols of the world, Kay moved from Hong Kong at the age of three to another food mecca - the San Francisco Bay Area. Food has always been a part of her life, from making won tons and pot stickers at home to now working in online advertising sales at FoodNetwork.com.

Information:

Taking advantage of the variety of local produce in California, Kay signed up for a CSA share that supplies her with seasonal fruits and vegetastokedonyum.blogspot.com bles. She keeps a blog about the dishes she makes with it on stokedonyum.blogspot. com. Kay Chu Status: Local Expert URL: stokedonyum. blogspot.com

Read on to learn about Kay’s recommendations on her favorite dining spots in the City by the Bay.

Andalu – For Tapas and

Coco 500 – Great Californian

Fresca – Great Peruvian place

Small Plates. Two words: Taco Tuesdays! Another two: Sangria Thursdays! On Tuesday nights, they have $1 Tacos. Usually 4 for $10, they’re not regular ol’ tacos. The Little Tuna tartar tacos topped with mango lime salsa are simply delectible. On Thursday nights, the Sangria pitchers are half off! Don’t stop at the tacos and sangria, all of their menu items are tempting from the fried macaroni and cheese sticks to the Cambazola Cheese Fondue Plate. Also try the grilled eggplant stuffed w/ ricotta and their yummy grilled lamb cheeks. www.andalusf.com 3198 16th St. @ Guerrero, San Francisco; 415.621.2211

cuisine. SOMA restaurants aren’t recognized enough and CoCo500 is one of the reasons why. Small plates and tastes for everyone to share, but the restaurant also provides options for those who prefer their own entrees. You can’t go wrong with any of their dishes but do try their Truffled Flatbread and “CocoMole” Tacos. www.coco500. com; 500 Brannan Street; 415.543.2222

with a casual yet lively atmosphere serving ‘traditional cuisine with a modern twist.’ Order the ceviche sampler and a pitcher of sangria, and enjoy watching the culinary creativity flowing from the open kitchen. www.frescasf. com; 2114 Fillmore Street, 415.447.4668

Espetus Churrascaria – Exotic, delicious Brazilian food! There’s something to be said about huge hunks of meat cooked to perfection on big long swords, then sliced table-side by waiters with European accents and a red bandana wrapped around their necks. Their sides are to die for as well...but try not to fill your plate and your belly with them. The meats are the stars here. www.espetus.com; 1686 Market Street; 415.552.8792

Green Chile Kitchen - A hidden gem in the pan handle residential neighborhood of San Francisco, serving some of the best Mexican food around. The chicken is roasted and moist and the steak is marinated perfectly. All of the meats are from Niman Ranch or Fulton Valley. A breakfast burrito with chorizo, topped with green chile on a Saturday morning will keep you full until the afternoon. My pick: Roasted Chicken Burrito with Green Chile Sauce. www.greenchilekitchen.com; 1801 McAllister @ Baker; 415.440.9411

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Michael Mina - 2 Michelin Hog Island Oyster Bar – Ferry Building - You can’t beat eating freshly shucked oysters on a beautiful San Francisco Day over looking the Bay Bridge. There’s out door seating and a bar inside. Casual and fun, it’s inside the Ferry Building - the gourmet marketplace. Love their clam chowder! www.hogislandoysterbar.com; One Ferry Building; 415.391.7117

Star restaurant. Definitely expect to spend a dime or two more here. Ok, maybe a tad bit more than a few dimes...but it’s worth every single penny. Service, Presentation, Food, Atmosphere, food, food - oh.... and food. Dinner at Michael Mina (or even just a few lobster corn dogs and black truffle popcorn at the bar) is gastronomic artistry in the heart of Union Square. Try the lobster pot pie. www.michaelmina.net/mm; Westin St. Francis, 335 Powell Street; 415 397-9222

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Travel Savvy | SAN FRANCISCO

A Range of Flavor:

the Classics by David Shalleck San Francisco is an exciting culinary destination rooted with ethnic diversity. Ever since the Gold Rush, people from all over the world have settled within the city’s compact forty-nine square miles creating a cosmopolitan fabric of neighborhoods and communities. In tandem, the variety of cooking styles reveals one of the city’s food-centric attributes. Here are five restaurants that have mastered traditional methods to classic flavors. Yank Sing Two locations: Rincon Center, 101 Spear St., 415.781.1111 and Stevenson Street, 49 Stevenson St., 415.541.4949, www.yanksing.com

When it comes to deem sum, this is the citadel. For over fifty years and now a James Beard Award winner, masses of loyal

patrons fill the seats for the non-stop parade of handmade traditional and signature deem sum delicacies. Go light on breakfast, get there early, and make sure an order of Shanghai dumplings are on your table. Tommaso’s 1042 Kearny St., 415.398.9696, www.tommasosnorthbeach.com

Old school Italian, yes. In the infamous North Beach neighborhood, yes. The kind of place that will remain as one by which you will always need a fix, yes. Among a rise of deft hands in the Bay Area at the pizza oven, the king of the hill is this revered institution with its wood burning oven, hailed as the oldest on the west coast. Waiting for a table is pretty much a guarantee, but the pizza will be worth it. Round out the meal with a few antipasti and you’ll want to come back before you leave. Piperade 1015 Battery St., 415.391.2555, www.piperade.com

There has been a pocket of French Basque cooking in San

Francisco for quite some time. In 2002, Chef Gerald Hirigoyen opened his “west coast Basque cuisine” restaurant pairing the traditions and cooking methods of his native region with the bounty available in Northern California. The spirited food is backed by a very attentive and courteous staff. Try dishes and wines with “t’s”, “x’s”, and “z’s” in their names and ask for a little bit of Espelette chili powder on the side to spice up your food. Out the Door Westfeld Center, 850 Market St. #80, 415.541.9913, www.outthedoors.com

Yes, there can be great food in a shopping mall. Out The Door is the testament to this finding. This fast-casual Vietnamese restaurant is an off shoot of the infamous Slanted Door sharing the same style and care in the cooking. For a fresh start, order the signature spring rolls and green papaya salad as soon as the server gets to the table. Peruse the enticing menu composed of great ingredients and authentic seasonings. There’s so much to try it can be hard to

order! Check website for two additional locations. Dosa Two locations: 995 Valencia St., 415.642.3672 and 1700 Fillmore St., 415.441.3672, www.dosasf.com

Specific to southern Indian cooking, the style here is fresh, clean, deep, and wonderfully spiced. It is a fascinating cuisine and the menu at both locations presents variety and tradition. The wines are very friendly for the food. Order one of the dosas for a perfect mid-course to share. Reserve in advance or get there early—these restaurants are a hot ticket. David Shalleck is a chef, television culinary producer, and founder of VOLOCHEF®, a culinary production company specializing in services to the food and media businesses, as well as private dining. He is also the author of acclaimed culinary travel memoir, Mediterranean Summer, a behind-thescenes adventure from the galley of a private Italian sailing yacht based in the French Riviera. website: www.volochef.com

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Contributed by Savvy Reader Kerry Fischer:

5 Favorite Restaurants in San Francisco

San Raku Sushi

www.salthousesf.com

www.sanraku.com 101 4th St, San Francisco (415) 369-6166

545 Mission St San Francisco, CA 94105 (415) 543-8900

Outstanding New American cuisine

Parma www.ParmaSF.com 3314 Steiner St, San Francisco (415) 567-0500

San Francisco’s Yelp fans agree with Kerry on this one Local foodie, San Francisco resident, and Savvy Reader contributed this list of recommended dining spots.

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Salt House

Slanted Door

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Umami

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www.umamisf.com 2909 Webster St San Francisco, CA 94123 (415) 346-3431

Terzo

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www.terzosf.com 3011 Steiner St San Francisco, CA 94123 (415) 441-3200

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www.slanteddoor.com 1 Ferry Building

200x600

San Francisco, CA 94111 (415) 861-8032

Vietnamese in the iconic Ferry Building

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us a list d n Se t? er xp e n a e r Thi n k you’ k it out, c e h c ll ’ e W . l. a c lo where you’re a you c a n be featured i n a n d if we like it, our n ext issue.

Travel Savvy | TRAVEL MEDIA

Biking in Amsterdam.

Amsterdam is one of my favorite cities in the world, and I love exploring it and neighboring areas on bicycle. The city is beautiful, full of history, abuzz with traffic on foot, cars, trams, buses and of course lots of bicycles. I’m quite fond of the Dutch; they have such an open outlook. They love to relax and enjoy, but they also can be quite serious in their pursuits. And they have the best posture while cycling. I don’t know how they do it. Anyway, I love to ride along the canals, enjoying the views, stopping wherever seems to call out my name, whether a café, museum, a place on the grass in Vondel Park, or whatever suits my fancy at the time.

Adventures in Travel:

GREG SULLIVAN: Top Adventures CEO and Editorial Director Afar Media

I’ve never picked out favorite places to travel before partly because the effect of travel is cumulative. One thing leads to another. So would one thing have been so good if I hadn’t done the things that lead to it? Nonetheless, I’ll get in the spirit and pick five of my favorite travel experiences:

Volunteering at a shelter outside Johannesburg, South Africa. Talk about an eye open-

W H E R E T R A V E L C A N TA K E YO U

“Tourists don’t know where they’ve been; travelers don’t know where they’re going.” –paul theroux

Greg Sullivan is a globe-trotting serial entrepreneur. Together with co-founder Joe Diaz, Greg launched Afar Media for those interested in experiential travel. Visit www.afar.com for more information and to subscribe to one of our favorite magazines.

philosophy, but little to no eastern philosophy. So I was quite intrigued when we met someone who gave us some texts and invited us to this academy while we were traveling through India. Ecuador Copenhagen Russia The academy was full mostly of young Indians, and had a Philippines Berlin fairly rigorous regimen beginning at 4:15 each morning of Jordan Brazil study, contemplation, yoga, lectures, chores and vegetarian diet. It was very interesting to study ancient Indian philosophy, but even more fascinating to get to know many local youth and talk to them about how globalization was changing and challenging their way of life. Was this for the better or not?

AFAR

Ice trekking across an Andean glacier on the Argentine side of Patagonia. My first glacial expedition was such an eye opener. I couldn’t believe how beautiful and varied the terrain was, and particularly the thrill of looking down into deep blue holes in the glacier going hundreds of feet down. It was amazing how quickly the glacier changed from hour to hour. We also had a great local guide who had done so much in Argentina and beyond. He was a great teacher – not only about the glacier but about all kinds of things Argentine.

Studying the Vedas, the oldest sacred texts of Hinduism, at an academy near Puna, India. I’ve studied a fair amount of western

SEYCHELLES

REAL LIFE IN PARADISE

Pubbing anywhere and everywhere in Ireland. The Irish love

WHERE TO GO NOW: 5 UNEXPECTED DESTINATIONS

ing experience. The shelter where I was working tried to help transition people not only out of poverty into jobs, 57 SMALL BITES OF SPAIN but also from the ways of living in the bush to modern HOT SPRINGS AROUND THE WORLD urban living. We also helped at some of the squatter THE PATH TO DELHI’S SOUL camps, where people lived in corrugated iron and plastic lean to’s on undeveloped land. There was an amazing variance in these camps: some were full of disease and subject to many fires caused by paraffin oil spills; while others were clean and orderly, where the residents took great pride in their humble homes. This was a truly life changing experience. I now help financially support a couple of Zulu orphan boys who I met through this, and I try to go back every 18 months or so. December/January 2 010

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Note to Grab a

conversation, music and stout. Well, all three can be found in great abundance in the pubs. I admit that this is not a particularly adventurous pursuit for a guy named Sullivan. But, what can I say? I love it. Oh, and did I forget to mention whiskey?

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Be honest— we can take it... In efforts to give you the best reader experience, we’d like to ask you a few questions. As this new medium continues to evolve, we’re all asking ourselves, how do we prefer to read and view media? In that spirit, your participation would be greatly appreciated. Write to us and tell us about your experience. We’ll keep it between us. We promise.

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