from the editors of
FEATURING
Road Trip: See The Keys,
One Mile at a Time Jacket-Free Dining in Key West the David Sloan
Bucket List
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FLA KEYS | EDITORIAL
Editor’s Letter By Paula Keung
As a native South Floridian, I have been fortunate enough to visit the Keys on many occasions. My first memory of the Keys is a family road trip, with my parents in the front of a large Lincoln sedan, my brother and I seated in the cavernous back with the windows rolled down. My parents let us set the radio dial to our favorite station; we sang to everything from INXS to Aerosmith while the car rolled south, the balmy ocean air pushing our hair from our faces. My dad had booked a budget hotel in Key West (probably a Holiday or Days Inn) and we had planned on relaxing at the beach, eating at the local diners, and generally not doing much beyond that. The beaches were different than the ones near my home-they were less crowded and the sand dunes gave them an exotic feel. We ducked our heads under the ocean water in search of parrot fish and other colorful creatures; we were thrilled to see a turtle on the sand. At night we strolled lively Duval Street in search of dinner. I held my mom’s arm to avoid being car-
ried away by the jolly crowds ducking in and out of the restaurants and bars. We ate conch chowder for dinner with fries and sodas, our shoulders and noses bright red from the sun. Since that trip, I’ve been back many times as an adult. Over the years, I’ve gone with my girlfriends in a rental car, a boyfriend or two, and my husband. The Keys seem to remain quintessentially the same as that first trip when my dad sat behind the wheel. The relaxed atmosphere, the beaches just off the main roads, and the welcoming attitude of everyone you meet. Sure, there’s new restaurants to be discovered and the lively Key West night spots change every decade or so but truth be told, this is the Florida Keys everyone loves, the Keys filled with character and life, and always ready to deliver a good time. I enjoyed editing this issue of Travel Savvy. Guess where my next family vacation will be, this time with me at the wheel? The Keys, of course. —Paula
T R AV E L S AV V Y f o r FLORIDA KEYS Publisher: Stig Baasvik Editorial Director: Paula Keung Creative Director: Ken Thelian Advertising Operations: Eva Kulova 495 Communications LLC Paula Keung Bret Polansky Ken Thelian Travel Savvy Magazine 495 Communications LLC New York, New York For Advertising Opportunities, Please call 917 428 0635 Contact Editorial: paula@495communications.com Operations: eva@495communications.com Advertising: ads@495communications.com ©2012 495 Communications Social Media Partners:
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Paula Keung, Editor Travel Savvy Digital Media JUST ANOTHER
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PRODUCTION
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FLORIDA KEYS | IN THIS ISSUE
Contents
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Eats: Leave the Jacket Home
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Keys, 1 Mile at time
Key West Bucket List
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Best of Key West:
Family Style
Letter from the Editor
The Keys Top 5!
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On the Cover: Scuba Divers, Photograph by Rob O’Neal
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Best of Key West: Family Style
parents. When beach plans are waylaid by a passing shower, The Key West Toy Factory is where you and your little ones should spend an exciting afternoon.
Fran Gonzon
Owner of Key West Toy Factory 291 Front Street Key West, FL 33040 (305) 296-0003 Key West Toy Factory Website
When Fran Gonzon and his wife began visiting the Keys in the 90’s, they knew that the relaxed lifestyle was perfect for families. After years of vacationing in the area, in 2005 the family took the big step of moving to Key West permanently. They immediately began renovating the old warehouse that would become the ultimate kidfriendly, indoor playspace. The Key West Toy Factory opened its doors in 2010, complete with a life size replica Spanish Galleon shipwreck, a Swiss Family Robinson-style tree house, and a live Kinkajou honey bear named Izzy,
Photo Credit: Key West Toy Factory
who roams the store all day cuddling with visitors. Izzy the Kinkajou has grown so popular with locals and visitors that she now has her own Facebook page.
If you’re looking to spend quality family-time in Key West, who better to ask about the area than the owner of the Toy Factory? Stop in and ask Mr. Gonzon anything; or consult his list, below.
ing, swimming, fishing, or lounging. Picnic areas are plentiful and there are alot of equipment rental stands and bike trails.
2. Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory Conservatory Website
1. Fort Zachary Taylor State Park State Park Website
The fantastical shop is an otherworldly universe of fun. Shelves are filled with hundreds of toys and games, for every age from infants to adults. There’s even a separate magic shop dedicated to tricks and illusions and staffed with on-duty magicians; an “Imagineering Workshop” where visitors can create arts-andcrafts; and space to host birthday parties for up to 40 children and
This is the best beach in Key West for families. Everyone can find something they love: snorkel-
Photo Credit: Jaytro
Centrally located on Duval Street, the Conservatory is home to hundreds of butterflies and colorful birds. Visitors can also explore the art gallery and learning center, and take home a memento from the extensive gift shop. Open 7 days from 9AM to 5:30PM. Check their website for photos and videos. Photo Credit Matty Yu
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3. Dry Tortugas National Park & Fort Jefferson National Park Website
Plan on going to the Dry Tortugas National Park when you’re in Key West. A group of small islands located about 70 miles from Key West and reachable only by boat or seaplane, this is the perfect day trip. There are many species of turtles and mi-
grating birds, and snorkelers can spot an abundance of marine life along the live coral reef and historic shipwrecks. Explore the Civil War-era military prison at Fort Jefferson and take pictures of the gorgeous view from the top of the Fort. But, bring foodthere are no food concessions on the island! The plane ride is about 45 minutes, while the ferry takes 3 hours. If you opt for the
‘fast cat’ ferry, stop at the A&D Lobster House near the marina. Be sure to visit the website above for more information about the Park as well as links to transportation companies.
4. Sebago Water Sports Sebago Water Sports Website
This reliable family-run operation offers all types of excursions, such as full-day tours, dolphin encounters, sunset cruises, catamaran packages, parasailing, and deep sea fishing. If there’s anything you might want to do in the ocean, it’s worth calling or emailing Sebago for information.
5. Wave Runner Tours of Key West At BareFooT BIlly’s Barefoot Billy’s Website
Key West is a 2 mile by 4 mile land mass, but it’s a 28 mile trip all the way around. Barefoot BilPhoto Credit: National Park Service
Photo Credit: National Park Service
ly’s experienced tour guides will take you on an exciting two-hour tour where you’ll learn about the island’s history on the back of a jet ski. You’ll stop at key locations along the way and learn the island’s little-known secrets, such as the location of German U-boat 2513’s final resting place, and the U.S. Navy Seals dive-training site.
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Dining Tip From Fran: Try Louie’s Backyard Bar. They brew their own hot sauce, which is why their conch chowder is the best! It also has a great wine list!
Photo Credit: National Park Service
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No Jacket Required: Dining in the Keys
Photo Credit: Jason Arnold Photography
Jon Kalafer Jon’s Website
Unlike other Florida communities, the Keys can’t be defined by its residents. Personalities from all across the globe have landed in the Keys and never looked back. Documentary filmmaker Jon Kalafer owns a home in Summerland Key, the bedroom community a few minutes east of Key West. He says, “I’ve been coming down to this area for the last 20 years with my family; you can’t find a more relaxing place to be.” out for Jon’s Editor’s Note: Look aby: The PS22 film Once in a Lull e upcoming TribeChorus Story at th Also check out his ca Film Festival. ufilm.com last film: weloveyo
Photo Credit: DiveFLAKEYS
Stepping into life on the Keys means you’ll lose track of time, gain a reddish tan, and never once need anything more formal than a t-shirt. Outdoorsy types, beach bums, and adventure lovers unite here. Jon says, “You can simply pull over the main highway, Route 1, and take a dip in the water or snorkel and fish,” Jon says. ”The entire highway through the keys is one big rest stop where you’ll find beautiful beaches.” Of course, you’ll need to stop for food and perhaps a beer at
some point. There’s plenty of great seafood to be had, but locals recommend sticking with the local catch and avoiding the pricier imported selections. Jon says, “Seasonally, the Keys offers delicious local stone crab claws and lobster tail. ‘Key West Pinks’ are the local shrimp variety. The favorite local fish is the ‘Hogfish Snapper’. You never see this fish anywhere except the Keys and it has a delicious unique taste.” Where else should you dine? Jon and his wife Kori recommend the places below...
Looe Key Tiki Bar 27340 Overseas Hwy Ramrod Key, FL 33042 (305) 872-2215 Looe Key Tiki Bar Website
Part dive shop, part bar, part restaurant, the Looe Key Tiki Bar attracts locals and visitors alike. If you want to see true local color, including the fun-loving harddrinking crowd, this is the place for that raw experience.
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Parrot Dise Waterfront Bar and Grille 183 Barry Avenue Little Torch Key, Florida 33042 (305) 872-9989 Parrot Dise Waterfront Website
Photo Credit: Jason Arnold Photography
Galley Grill MM 25 US Hwy 1 Summerland Key, FL 33042 (305) 745-3446
A favorite spot for big eaterswe love the pancakes and omelettes. Come for breakfast and try the Hobo Piled High Skillet. Mmmm... grits!
Parrot Dise offers a little of everything-along with a full bar, there’s a kids’ menu, a catering space, and a waterfront view to enjoy. If you’re boating over for dinner, just tie your vessel to the restaurant’s private dock. The name is a nod to Keys expert Jimmy Buffet and while the atmosphere is laid back, the food is “gourmetlevel.” Jon recommends the Lobster Reuben and the Jamaican Jerk Wings.
No Name Pub 30813 North Watson Boulevard Big Pine Key, FL 33043 (305) 872-9115 No Name Pub Website
No Name Pub’s sign above the door says “You Found It,” and if you take the time to get here,
you’ll be visiting history. The establishment has been in business since 1931; originally a local general store, the owners added the ‘pub’ room in 1936. Try the pub pizza with ‘furry fish on the side,’ which is the local way of saying a side of anchovies. Like all bars with an interesting history, No Name Pub sells T-shirts with funny lines about how hard it is to find. It isn’t a joke, you have to work to find it. It is on No Name Key which isn’t connected to the main road, Route 1. You have to take a bridge off of Big Pine Key.
Murray’s Market 24550 Overseas Highway, Summerland Key, FL 33042 (305) 745-3534 Murray’s Market Website
For picnics, try the sandwiches and prepared foods. If you’re eating in, this is a great place for meats, groceries and sundries.
Photo Credit: Christof Verboven
Baby’s Coffee 3180 US Highway 1 Big Pine Key,FL33043 (305) 744-9866 Baby’s Coffee Website
A delicious alternative to homemade joe.
Tropic Cinema 416 Eaton Street Key West, Florida 33040 Tropic Cinema Website
Rainy day? Hit Tropic Cinema to catch an independent film.
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FLORIDA KEYS | EXPLORE
Photo Credit: Little Palm Island
The Road Less Traveled: Driving the Florida Keys a Mile at a Time Rob O’Neal Rob’s Website
Originally from Dayton, Ohio, Rob O’Neal moved to Key West after graduating from The Ohio Institute of Photography in 1996. Since landing in this tropical paradise to become a photographer with the Key West Citizen newspaper, Rob has become a true local, traveling the Keys by car, by boat, and by plane with the famed Blue Angels. Some of his local work can be seen in his book, Key West Photo Safari (website), filled with the beautiful (beaches, wildlife, flowering poinciana treas) and the bizarre (a pepper car, bats, ghostly abandoned bars). His next project, a comprehensive photography study of Cuba, will be out next.
the rare cool night and the other is a pair of black dress pants I wear once a year while covering the American Red Cross Humanitarian of the Year Awards. Otherwise it’s just shorts, all year round.”
What’s to love about the Keys besides sunny skies, ocean waves, and Key Limes? Rob says the dress code is definitely a plus.
Card Sound Road
“I love living here mainly because I hate wearing long pants. I have two pairs, one is a pair of jeans for
Photo Credit: Rex Lavoie
Since most folks traveling down the Keys from Miami do so by car, here’s Rob’s road map by mile marker. Rob notes, “All ‘rights’ and ‘lefts’ are in reference to driving down the Keys. If you are leaving Key West and driving back up the Keys, just reverse those rights and lefts. The smaller mile marker numbers are closer to the Keys, because they are listed from south to north.”
more scenic. It’s slightly longer than the main road, but you’ll love being surrounded by the local ecosystem. There’s a bridge in the middle, and the toll is $1.00. If you’re hungry, stop at Alabama Jacks. Locals wax poetic about this place-it’s the right mix of down home local joint and great food. Check out their website: www.alabamajacks.com
There are two ways from Miami Dade County to the Florida Keys or Monroe County. One is the Florida Turnpike, and the other is Card Sound Road, which runs parallel to the turnpike and is Photo Credit: Uwe Seiler
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Kona Kai Resort Website
Photo Credit: Little Palm Island
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John D. Pennekamp State Park Website
The park’s Visitor Center has a 30,000 gal. aquarium that is fun to check out. You can also snorkel right off the beach, which features a Spanish shipwreck just 100 ft. off the shore. The Park also offers snorkeling and SCUBA diving trips. Open from 8AM to 5PM daily.
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Pink Junktique Facebook Page
In Key Largo on the bay side you’ll find Kona Kai, an elegant 11-room resort that’s also an art gallery and botanical garden. It’s been awarded several travel awards for service and amenties. Each room features original artwork and the service manages to be personal and discreet all at once. There are tennis courts and a small beach. No little onesguests have to be 16+ years of age.
On the Oceanside is a wellstocked consignment shop. A little pricey, but cool stuff can be found from time to time.
Photo Credit: Lynda Quintero-Davids
Photo Credit: Nancy Johnson
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Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center Website
On the right side of the road; there is a large sign for the Center, but it’s hard to see until the last minute. This is a great allvolunteer organization taking in injured hawks, owls, herons, sea gulls and more. The rehabilitated birds are then released back into the wild.
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Rain Barrel Artisan’s Village Home of the Giant 40’ Lobster Website
You can’t miss this, just look for a 40’ lobster on the Bayside. The Rain Barrel is a collection of small art galleries and shops that are individually owned and operated. It’s a good place to pull over and browse for some fun souvenirs like hand blown glass sculptures and jewelry.
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Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological Site Website
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The Diving Museum Website
In the 1900’s, this was an old rock quarry that was used to mine coral stone for the Overseas Highway. Now, it offers a few trails through the natural hammock of the Florida Keys. It’s great for a stretch of the legs while learning a little history. Note: The park is closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
This is the perfect place for anyone who loves Scuba Diving. There are alot of displays and information on the history of diving, and a great gift shop for anything dive related!
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Cheeca Lodge Website
A four-diamond property, the Cheeca Lodge is an upscale resort that offers the right blend of luxury and relaxation with a lovely staff and beautiful grounds. Whether you stay here or not, Rob recommends dining at Nikai Sushi Restaurant on the property. Try the Keysie Japanesie roll or the Big Kahuna.
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trail is named for, the Golden Orb Weaver. They are quite beautiful! The trail takes you alongside the beach and into the hammock, with transitioning ecology along the way. They also have canoe rentals and a canoe trail mapped out.
Photo Credit: Mklinchin
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Robbie’s Marina of Islamorada Website
Robbie’s Marina is where you can rent boats or schedule excursions. Trips to Lignumvitae Key on the Bayside and Indian Key on the Oceanside are offered here. See Micah at the Kayak Shack, he’s a great musician and very knowledgeable about the area. There’s a fantastic eatery at the Marina-The Hungry Tarpon (www.hungrytarpon.com). Order fish tacos and then wander around back and feed the tarpon off the pier with buckets of fish
Photo Credit: Stephen Radford
you can buy for $2. Bring your camera; tarpon can be larger than 100 lbs!
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walk along the Boardwalk, make sure you watch closely for the occasional large crabs scurrying back into their holes. There are public restrooms here also.
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Anne’s Beach Need a rest stop or want to stretch your legs? Stop at Anne’s Beach, which has two entrances just several hundred yards apart that are connected by a boardwalk with a lot of little pavilions along it. The sand is unusual; it has tiny bits of coral and shell in it. While you
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Long Key State ParK Website
This little State Park is home to the Golden Orb Trail – an incredible walk through many different ecosystems. If you look closely you may spot the spider that the
Photo Credit: FloridaKeysGirl.com
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Sparky’S Landing
Blue Hole
Website
Website
At Key Colony Beach Marina in Marathon, Sparky’s might just have the best fish tacos in all of the Keys! Try the Gratinee and Blue Cheese Chips.
The Blue Hole is on Big Pine Key. Turn right on Key Deer Blvd & veer to the left-the low speed limit is because Key Deer can be found walking roadside, especially around dawn and dusk. You will see the Blue Hole entrance on the left; it is the only fresh water lake in the Florida Keys and because of that, you can spot some unique wildlife at times. You’ll likely see any number of rare wild birds, alligators, snakes, and occasionally a Key Deer will wander up as well. Sometimes there’s a guide on duty, but there’s no published hours so just stop in!
Photo Credit: Rob O’Neal
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The Turtle Hospital Website
This group saves and rehabs sea turtles all over the Keys and greater Florida. They offer tours a few times a day. The website also features a blog where you can read about individual turtles they have saved or are currently caring for.
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Key Deer Refuge Nature Trail Website
A little farther down from the Blue Hole in Big Pine Key there is a nature trail through the Key Deer Refuge, which is located in the Big Pine Key Shopping Plaza. Actually the whole island of Big Pine Key is a Key Deer refuge, but this particular trail is well marked. It is about a mile long and takes you through a variety of different ecosystems. Informative signs periodically dot the trail telling you about the native flora and fauna. And, it’s free!
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Little Palm ISland Website
This boutique luxury resort is located on Little Torch Key and offers just 30 bungalows. The hotel offers a water taxi service and plenty of romance. Look for a brown road sign with an anchor on it. The entrance to their shore station is on the oceanside. One of the best dining experiences in the Keys is at their Dining Room. Make a reservation and your adventure begins with a 15-minute boat ride to the most intimate and remote restaurants in the Florida Keys.
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To get there, exit at MM 17 and you will see Sugarloaf Lodge on the right. Directly after, you will see signs to “Skydive”, turn right at that sign. Towards the end of this little road, you will see the old Bat Tower of Sugarloaf.
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Photo Credit: Rob O’Neal
Reelax Charters/Key WEst Kayak Tours and E.P. Dalton’s Ultralight Website Photo Credit: Uwe Seiler
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Bat Tower on Sugarloaf A man named Perky built this bat tower in the 1920’s or 30’s. He wanted to open a hotel on Sugarloaf, but found the mosquitoes to be abundant. He commissioned a bat tower in hopes that bats would eat the mosquitoes! Good idea in theory, but after importing many bats for the task, they soon flew away, never to return.
Andrea Paulson runs Reelax Charters in Sugarloaf Marina, where you can book kayak tours to see all the beautiful wildlife we have in the Keys. The superfriendly and knowledgeable captain will anchor off a sandy beach and guide you through mangrove creeks where small sharks, sting-
rays, starfish and other aquatic creatures live. Also, across the marina you’ll see E.P. Dalton’s Ultralight. The Ultralight is a fixed wing aircraft that allows you to see the entire area aerially. Please note that E.P. can only take one person at a time, but the views are stunning. Check it out here: www.keywestfloats.com
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TheKey West Bucket List David Sloan David L. Sloan quit his corporate job and moved to Key West in 1996. A former cruise ship GM, he is the founder of Key West’s Original Ghost Tour, author of 10 books, an artist, musician and songwriter. He lives in Old Town Key West with his macaw and pit bull. David wrote The Bucket List
in response to the overwhelming number of guide books featuring paid advertorials for mediocre activities. “People are looking for adventures. The Bucket List sends them down the right path and Key West takes care of the rest.” Step beyond the guidebooks and experience the Florida Keys like a local. Here’s a few of David’s gems for how to spend your time in Key West.
2. Stay in a haunted hotel Bars are not the only things that go bump in the night. Check into Marrero’s Guest Mansion and you may have a close encounter with the mansion’s resident ghost. 410 Fleming Street, (305) 294-6977, www.marreros.com
3.
Hand-feed a tarpon
Search for flamingos from a kayak
Save your food scraps from the Schooner Wharf Bar and feed them to the sea creatures lurking below the docks. Watch your fingers. The tarpon take “handfeeding” literally. 202 William Street, (305) 292-3302, www. schoonerwharf.com
While authentic flamingos are not as prevalent as the plastic variety found in Floridian’s front yards, the search with Lazy Dog Kayak Adventures will leave you tickled pink. 5114 Overseas Highway (305) 295-9898, www.lazydog.com
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Photo Credit: LongHornDave
4.
Catch your own lobster Why should fishermen have all the fun? Skip the fancy restaurants and hire 6-Pack Charters for a day on the water with Captain Billy Rentz. It doesn’t get any fresher than this. (305) 240-0464, www.6packkeywest.com
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5.
7.
Submit a crazy comment to “the CITIZEn’s VOICE”
Slip into a pair of Kinos
Our local paper has an anonymous comment column where locals and tourists vie for bragging rights on the days most humorous or bizarre comment. Phone in or e-mail your brief and entertaining thoughts, then let your friends on Twitter and Facebook know you have been published in Key West. Key West Citizen’s Voice, (305) 293-7900, voice@ keysnews.com
Photo Credit: najwa Kronfel
Comfortable, classy sandals made in Key West. A staple for any local worth their weight in conch. At 14 bucks a pair you won’t want to slip them off. (107 Fitzpatrick Street, 305-294-5044, www.kinosandals.com)
6. Make a Key lime pie Grab a few ingredients from Fausto’s Food Palace and try your hand at this island favorite that comes together easy as pie. 522 Fleming Street, (305) 2965663, www.faustos.com
Hungry for more? The Key West Bucket List includes 100 ways to have a real Florida Keys experience. Pick up a copy for your NOOK or Kindle at: www.amazon.com/author/sloan
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FLORIDA KEYS | BEST OF
Photo Credit: Uwe Seiler
Top 5 in the Keys
Stephanie Goldberg Glazer, Florida Keys Girl Blog Website
Stephanie Goldberg Glazer is the Florida Keys Girl. Her blog, www.floridakeysgirl.com, is focused on life in Key West and beyond, covering traveling, eating, wine drinking and the crazy adventures of her dog, Babka. Stephanie is the co-host of 3 Loud Women and runs Your Personal Manager, Inc, a full service personal assistant company, helping clients plan and enjoy their vacations.
“It is hard not to love the Florida Keys, and frankly, I find anyone who claims they don’t a bit suspect. With so many things to do (“relaxing” counts as doing), you can exert as much or as little effort as you like. My favorite things to do typically revolve around eating, drinking and merriment, as evidenced by the list and the constant thought of dieting ‘later’.”
The Florida Keys Top Five The Keys have so many quirky restaurants and one of my favorite spots to lunch while driving to or from Key West is Keys Fisheries in Marathon. The food is great, prepared to order (quickly) and when ordering at the walk up window, customers are identified by their favorite movie or the like. 1
2
My favorite place to stop for coffee (by “coffee” I mean
“coffee and an almond croissant”) is the Village Gourmet in Islamorada. Good coffee, to-diefor pastries and a water bowl for my dog.
Brunch there is superb (Key lime pie stuffed French toast, enough said.) Dinner is equally wonderful with homemade gnocchi and fresh seafood.
Whenever we have out of town guests, we take them on a sunset sail. There is very little more beautiful than the Florida Keys sunsets. I like Danger Charters Wind and Wine– small ships, great service and a nice wine selection. 3
I have two favorite restaurants, and on special occasions, like my birthday, I may hit them both in the same day. The Flaming Buoy Filet Co. on Packer Street has a quiet, neighborhood feel. The food is great, service friendly and they have a spicy chocolate quesadilla for dessert. Don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it! Azur, on Grinnell 5 Street, splits their awesomeness across several meals. 4
Photo Credit Matty Yu
from the editors of
Photo Credit: Rob O’Neal