Big Island Traveler by Traveler Media

BIG ISLAND THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

T R AV E L E R MIGHTY MAUNA KEA

THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF A SACRED VOLCANO

bigislandtraveler.com

GLOBAL FLAVORS

THE MELTING POT OF THE PACIFIC

VOLCANO ON WHEELS

A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE OF KĪLAUEA

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + WINE WHAT WE LOVE NOW EPIC ADVENTURES ULTIMATE BEACH GUIDE SPIRIT OF THE WHALE TREES IN BLOOM SPRING 2017

HAWAII

take the colors of Hawaii home

Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort

MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

L E G E N DA RY S H O P P I N G & D I N I N G

T I F FA N Y & C O .

M I C H A E L KO R S

TO M M Y B A H A M A

R O Y ’ S WA I K O L O A B A R & G R I L L

L ’ O C C I TA N E

T H E K O A TA B L E B Y C H E F I P P Y

NOA NOA

M ACY ’ S R E S O R T STO R E

L o c a t e d i n Wa i k o l o a B e a c h R e s o r t

Big Island

TO R I R I C H A R D

WA L K I N G I N P A R A D I S E

MARTIN & MACARTHUR

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A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L

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AND MORE...

CONTENTS 2

24 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

68 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences

40 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

72 THE HOT SPOT Honu Bar

48 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

74 CULINARY Q&A Chef Massimo Falsini

94 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano

76 SIP THE SEASON Spring Wines to Enjoy

8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i Style

78 GET OVER IT Hangover Remedies Just in Case

20 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Big Island

82 GLOBAL FLAVORS The Melting Pot of the Pacific

22 WHY DON'T YOU... Add These to Your Itinerary

86 TREES IN BLOOMS The Towering Bouquets of Hawai‘i

32 CLIMATE CHANGE Big Island Style

96 VOLCANO ON WHEELS A Different Perspective of Kīlauea

42 MIGHTY MAUNA KEA The Past, Present & Future of a Sacred Volcano

100 REFLECTING ON SUNSHINE Sunscreen Best Practices for Healthy Coral

54 SPIRIT OF THE WHALE Myths, Mysteries and Legends in Hawaiian History Bond the Two Forever

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

CONTENTS

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF CONTRIBUTORS Kirk Aeder Brooke Rehmann Krystal Kakimoto Andrew Walsh Ekua Impraim Coco Zickos

COPY EDITOR Joseph Kwak

bigislandtraveler.com www.traveler.media

Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 For subscription, advertising or distribution information contact: info@traveler-media.com

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Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (COVER) MICHELE FALZONE/GETTY IMAGES; (TOP LT) HILDGUND; (TOP RT) MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL; (MID LT) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI

Mun Sok Geiger

Savor the moment

REGIONAL + SEASONAL + ARTISANAL

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Reservations 808 325 8333 www.uluoceangrill.com

Most Romantic Restaurants in America Award

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

“If you don’t like the weather, wait a minute and it’ll change.”

Whether Mark Twain first said this phrase about New England or Will Rogers said it about Oklahoma, this expression (or some variation of it) is now commonly heard across many states and even in other countries. Here, we say, “If you don’t like the weather, drive five miles.” Our first visit to the Big Island was in February 2006. We were staying in Waikoloa Resort where it was hot and sunny (a welcomed change from freezing in Dallas). Our friends told us to expect cold temperature in some places and to be prepared, but it’s easy to forget sage advice from seasoned visitors when you have spent the first days of vacation soaking in the sun beachfront. We were on our way to see Waipiÿo Valley and ‘Akaka Falls, which are highly recommended. We stopped to get coffee in Kamuela and were shocked by the weather when we stepped out of our car—it was cold and misting—very different from the comfortable climate at our hotel. We were surprised (even though we’ve been told), and not at all dressed for the temperature drop. The incredible diversity in topography and many different climates found here certainly take visitors by surprise; in fact, the actual number of world climate zones that can be found on the Big Island have been heavily debated (Climate Change, p. 32). My mom comes here quite often to see her grandson (my husband and I don’t exist anymore); and each time she shares her bewilderment of the change in landscape from the airport to our home in Kamuela. She also loves to express her amazement of how different the weather is each time we drive into town just a few miles away. As much as I give 6

her a hard time about repeating herself, I totally understand her fascination with our varied weather. I am known to text my friends before I meet them for golf or dinner and double check that it is indeed warm where they are since it’s windy and cool where I live. On that note, it’s a good idea to have a light outer layer for early mornings and late evenings, as it can get surprisingly chilly. However, you will need more than a sweater to go up to Mauna Kea, which is the highest mountain on the planet when measured from base to peak. Mauna Kea is definitely a must-do on the Big Island (Mighty Mauna Kea, p. 42). You have to experience the almost tangible mana (divine power) and why this summit is still sacred to Hawaiians, and why astronomers find it the ideal place on earth to peer deeper into the universe. Sunsets and stargazing here are simply transcendent. No doubt the Big Island is an exceptional tropical destination (you can make a snowman and a sandcastle just hours apart!). From sea to sky, there is a plethora of unique adventures to check out. There are many picture-perfect beaches, epic hiking trails, countless waterfalls, vibrant sea life, and even active volcanoes—and the ideal weather to experience it all. Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor-in-Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE RED HOT CHILI PEPPER

When dining at a local style restaurant, keep an eye out for the chili pepper water, a favorite food topper. This fiery treat is a clear, watery condiment that often contains whole red chili peppers. Go beyond the ketchup and Tabasco and dash some chili pepper water on local cuisine to accentuate your meal. Be forewarned, chili pepper water does pack some heat. In its simplest form, chili pepper water is comprised of Hawaiian red chilies (similar to Asian red chili peppers), a little salt and water. It is also common for a bit of crushed garlic, ginger and rice wine vinegar to be added to the mix. With a consistency of water and not a sauce, locals often pour chili pepper water into a side dish and sip on the condiment after taking a bite of food. The chili flavor enhances local style cuisine, favored to complement beef stews, Hawaiian barbeque, kälua pig, and even poke (cut raw fish) and poi (pounded taro). Whether you choose to top on your food or sip on the side, chili pepper water is a must try!

TALKING NUISANCE

Declared by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) as one of only three birds listed on the 100 of the World’s Worst Invasive Alien Species, the common myna is easy to spot around the Big Island. The common myna is a large native of Asia and was introduced to Hawaiÿi in 1865 to control plagues of armyworms and cutworms in the sugarcane crops. It subsequently spread the invasive, toxic flowering plant West Indian Lantana. This highly adaptable bird prefers woodland and farmland, but thrives in urban and suburban environments as it can build a nest in any covered nook or cranny. It has a stocky build with a brown body, black head and distinct yellow legs, bill, and eye patch. Found throughout all of the main Hawaiian Islands, they are sometimes kept as pets and well known for their ability to mimic human sounds. 8

LOCAL LINGO

Pidgin originated during the plantation era when Hawaiians, Chinese, Japanese, Koreans, Filipinos, and Portuguese lived and worked together on the sugar and pineapple plantations in Hawaiÿi. As the different ethnicities mixed, so did their languages and Pidgin helped the different groups communicate and can still be heard throughout the state today. One special aspect of Pidgin is the many words used to show close, familial ties between people not related by blood. Listen closely and you will often hear the terms Aunty and Uncle, which are terms of endearment used towards elders, and show the user’s deep respect and esteem towards the recipient. Words like cuz are used for both sexes and implies a close relationship as if the two grew up together like cousins, whereas brah or bruddah is often used as a friendly address towards males. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Front row seats available.

Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Reservations 808 325 8915 fourseasons.com/hualalai

LOCAL VIBE

NUTCRACKER

pening a coconut “Hawaiian-style” is no easy task! This method doesn’t use cutting edge tools like machetes and knives, but relies solely on materials found in Hawaiÿi’s natural environment—a rock, a wooden stake and perhaps a twig or two. The traditional method makes use of one of two common techniques: literally bouncing the coconut on a sharp rock until its outer husk splits or impaling it on a wooden stake using as much brute strength as you can muster. Once the outer husk is breached, repeat one of these techniques to crack the actual nut that contains the coconut water and meat. Look for the three stomas or eyes found on one end of the coconut shell, by piercing one of these with a small stick or twig you may access the refreshing liquid inside, replenishing your energy before continuing the work to get to the meat. Cultural programs hosted at some of the resorts on the Big Island include demonstrations on these coconut-opening techniques. It’s recommended that you check these out before trying it yourself. Or, you may prefer to simply cut to the chase using a more modern-day approach that takes about ten seconds. First, tightly wrap the coconut in a bath towel and place the towel on a study surface (such as your floor or the sidewalk in front of your house). Next, whack it firmly with a hammer. Done—you now have wiki (quick) access to the fresh coconut meat.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

SEA DOG

nce upon a time there were three species of monk seals known to inhabit the world’s oceans. In 1952, off the coast of Nicaragua, the last confirmed sighting of a Caribbean monk seal marked the probable extinction of this robust pinniped known as the “sea wolf” to early explorers. The Mediterranean monk seal, one of the most endangered mammals in the world, has a population of fewer than 600 individuals and may soon join the Caribbean monk seals as a distant, but fond memory. The third species, which may turn out to be the last of these unique earless seals, is the Hawaiian monk seal. Often playful, other-times a 400-lb lazy beach bum, these barky natives are found only in the Hawaiian Islands. Sadly, they may soon be found nowhere at all if conservation efforts here in Hawai‘i can’t encourage the 1,100 seals left to regain a healthy, stable population. Monk seals live and feed in the ocean, but spend about one-third of their lives on the beach. Suitable beaches are critically important for pregnant mothers who will give birth to a pup and spend at least six weeks continuously on the same beach. The dedicated mother never leaves her pup’s side, not even to feed. Surviving on her stored blubber, she will nurse the pup losing up to 200 lbs. from her 500-lb. frame. Hawaiian monk seals were so named because of their solitary nature and folds of skin that sometimes resemble a monk’s cowl. In Hawaiian, they are known as ‘ïlio-holo-i-ka-uaua, loosely translated, it means “dog (quadruped) running in the rough seas.”

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

An American Steakhouse with island-infused ﬂavors Located at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. For reservations dial 808-325-8450 or visit www.hualalairesort.com.

H Hualalai Grille G _

Sept-Dec Seaside 2 pg spread e.indd 1

Seaside Boutique

The true deﬁnition of resort an found at Hualälai Resort. Seaside Luxe, Seaside Beach, and the Shop features the world’s most premiere fashion lines which can found here in our Seaside Boutiques. Missoni dresses, Pucci swimsuits, James Perse exclusive designs to the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth and McDonald.

Hualälai home of Four Seasons Resort Hualälai Kailua Kona, Hawai’i 96740 808-325-8459 or www.hualalairesort.com

7/10/15 1:56 PM

LOCAL VIBE

DO THE WAVE Avoid injuries and don’t get smashed by a powerful wave coming towards you by just standing there or, worse, turning your back towards it, or even jumping over it if you are able to stand in the water. Instead, learn how to duck dive comfortably and confidently. When a wave is coming towards you, go under the wave before it breaks. If you have a surfboard or boogie board, hold your board by its nose and push it down beneath the oncoming wave, while ducking your head so it follows your board. Start with smaller waves first to get comfortable and familiar with the motion, the undertow and the current. You do not want to be on top of the breaking wave, this is called going “over the falls,” so be mindful of your location and where you begin your descent. 16

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

“BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE BIG ISLAND”

WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Fair Wind II and Hula Kai at historic Kealakekua Bay & site of the Captain Cook Monument Information & Reservations 808.345.6213 | www.fair-wind.com

LOCAL VIBE

SKY LIGHT One of the most spectacular experiences when visiting the Big Island is our fiery main attraction—Kïlauea Volcano. Though the idea of a volcano may conjure images of spewing lava fountains and rivers of fire and ash, you may be surprised to learn that lava typically flows through a network of lava tubes—underground. Molten-hot fire pits and tubular channels are formed slightly beneath the earth’s surface after lava travels for miles from the volcano out to the Pacific Ocean. This phenomenon has created a riveted island attraction—skylights. 20

Frequently, the earth’s surface above an underground lava tube can become very fragile causing the roof of a channel to collapse. This creates a “skylight” view to the action below. Imagine being able to witness a stream of glowing red-hot lava moving through submerged channels—the sight brings new meaning to the idea of lava lamps. The best viewing times are during the evening when the red and orange glow is intensified by Hawai‘i’s pitch black of night. Kïlauea’s skylights is just one experience of volcanic nature at its best. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

AT M A U N A K E A R E S O RT

LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... LISTEN TO A WHALE SONG.

Nearly 10,000 whales visit the Hawaiian waters yearly to mate and give birth. Take a whale watching tour for an amazing experience with a chance to witness their spectacular acrobatic abilities, and listen to the mysterious eerie whale song while you are cruising. Although females can vocalize, only the males sing complex melodies and create themes with some songs lasting for 20 minutes—incredibly, they can repeat the same song for hours. Over time, the melodies can change reflecting new places and new whales as they try to harmonize together. Once you hear them, you will never forget their sounds. Body Glove (888) 980-7513 or Mauna Lani Sea Adventures (808) 885-7883.

DIVE 100 FEET BELOW.

You don’t have to be a scuba diver, an avid snorkeler, or even a good swimmer to see the abundant reef life full of color and unique species found off the Kona Coast. You can see tons of sea creatures across a 25-acre natural coral reef in the safety and comfort of a Coast Guard approved submarine. Atlantis Submarines (808) 327-1441.

GET A MUCH BETTER VIEW.

Not only is the Big Island incredibly large and difficult to fully explore on a limited time, but also much of it is undeveloped without roads. You can save a lot of driving time by taking your sightseeing pleasure to the skies. See incredible waterfalls, snow-covered summits, lava flowing into the ocean and lush valleys, all while learning some interesting facts from your pilots. Paradise Helicopters (866) 919-7414, Safari Helicopters (808) 246-0136, Sunshine Helicopters (808) 882-7362. 22

PLAY IN A FOREST.

Nature is the ultimate playmate—rappel down trees, cross sky bridges, gush over the secluded waterfalls, zip tree-to-tree super fast high above a forest reserve, and then cool off in a private pool beneath a waterfall. Both beginners and zipline aficionados will appreciate the high standard safety of the courses and certified canopy guides from Kohala Zipline. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit KohalaZipline.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Sunshine

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ALOHA

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Queens MarketPlace Queens’ COMING SOON maa Waikoloa Luxury Cinema DINING Charley’s Thai Cuisine sine n ne Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant estaa rantt Romano’s Macaronii Grill Gril G Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi ushi s BBar FASHION Blue Ginger Family Cookies Clothing Co. Crocs Kona Surf N’ Sandals Local Motion Mahina Malibu Shirts PacSun Persimmon Quiksilver Reyn’s Volcom FOOD OUTLETS Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches & Salads GROCERY Island Gourmet Markets JEWELRY & ART Genesis Galleries Island Pearls Lava Light Galleries SERVICES Century 21 All Islands Hawaii Haw Life Real Estate Brokers Hearts H ts & Stars Salon & Day Spa Hilton Vacations Club Hil n Grand G Luxury by Harold Clarke uxury xury ry Big B g Island Is Waikoloa W ikolo Waik Wa kol Dental Clinic Waikoloa Waiko Realty W SPECIALTY SPEC P L & GIFTS Bike ’n Sports B Works Work Beach W B Blue Bluue Wilderness ilderness ern Dive Adventures Claire’s Clai Cla C Hawaiian waiian ann Quilt Qu Collection Q Hawaiian & Guitar H waiian aii Ukulele Uku Lids Li Ocean Oc an Sports Pacific Pacifi Nature PPa SoHa SoH Living So Sunglass Hut Su

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nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak.

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ALOHA

Our Bees Need to Fly 48,000 Miles to Produce One Pound of Raw Organic Hawaiian Honey. No matter how many miles you’ve flown to reach the Big Island, you’ll never forget your visit to Big Island Bees. Experience one of the world’s leading honey farms. Visit an open beehive where you’ll have a box seat on beekeeping, in a safe and secure screened area. Take a tour of our museum. Discover the history of beekeeping and glimpse into the hidden world of bees. Enjoy free samples of the raw,

organic single-floral honeys that are enjoyed around the world. When you come visit us here in Captain Cook, make a day of it. Snorkel at Two Step. Explore nearby Kealakekua Bay, the ancient Hiki’au Heiau Temple, and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Come spend some time with us in this hidden corner of Hawaii. 120 million of our bees look forward to seeing you.

Reservations: 808.328.1315 or B I G I S L A N D BE E S .C O M THE BIG ISLAND BEE COMPANY Raw & Organic Hawaiian Honey 82-1140 Meli Rd Captain Cook, HI 96704

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Hawai‘ i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.”

Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Discover Hawaii with Safari Helicopters The People'sChoice Since 1987 Naval Reserves as a Commander (0-5). Preston Myers, owner/pilot of Safari Helicopters, has radically changed the helicopter industry throughout the After active duty with the US Navy, Myers returned to State of Hawaii. Safari was the first company in the State Southeast Asia as a civilian and flew for the infamous of Hawaii to fly air tours in the comfort of an “Air America” flying throughout Thailand, Laos, air-conditioned ASTAR 350 B aircraft and the first to offer Cambodia, and South Vietnam on quasi-military secret a two-way communication system between passengers and missions. He continued his adventures by relocating pilot. They were also the first company to install and operate to Singapore, the international trading capital of the an FAA approved multiple video camera system with high world. He flew on oil exploration projects throughout quality digital cameras to record the passengers’ actual tour, the Indonesian Archipelago of Borneo, Sumatra, capturing the music, and live narration. Along with Java, Celebes, and Irian Jaya (Dutch New Guinea) introducing new and innovative ways to improve the conducting extensive external loading operations entire helicopter tour experience, Safari was also the moving oil drilling rigs piece by piece to remote site first operator in the State to fly the higher performance locations. ASTAR 350 B2 helicopters introduced in 1991. Preston maintained his flying proficiency with the Naval Reserves as Nowadays, Safari flys the Executive Officer for a combat search and rescue squadron based at NAS North Island, flying the H-3A helicopter. It didn’t Super ASTAR 350 B2-7 which take him long to realize he was not meant for a three-piece features a left side pilot seat configuration suit or freeway traffic jams and moved his family to Hawaii. allowing for a better view when flying clockwise around the island, higher performance, more If you are interested in flight-seeing Kauai with a small, reliability, and more passenger leg room… family-owned company that offers you professional and another ‘first’. These aircrafts are now equipped caring service, then fly with Preston Myers or one of his with “Mega” windows offering almost 40% highly qualified pilots. Myers is truly concerned about his increased visibility. Safari was also the first to passengers’ safety and believes in the axiom, “There are old Family owned and operated initiate the production of the “Safari Skylight” pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold ceiling windows to open up the skies above for an From our family to yours…Escape your pilots.” awesome view of Mt. Waialeale Crater. reality and join ours as we take you on a Safari Helicopter Tours is a Certified Part 135 air carrier, tour into the heart of the Garden Island. Preston Myers, one of the island’s most Part 133 External-load Operator, and is experienced pilots with more than 40 years in also authorized under Part 137. Safari aviation, started flying at Mt. San Antonio College near Pomona, Helicopters not only has sightseeing tour experience California prior to the Vietnam conflict. He then graduated with a degree but has conducted contracts with the US Navy and in aviation before entering the U.S. Navy. Myers recently retired from the was DOD AMC authorized, Inter-Agency qualified to fly US Government personnel with several years experience fire-fighting on the US Mainland. Overall, no other company in Hawaii has this kind of experience. Tours vary depending on weather, 48 hr. cancellation, Weight restrictions apply. Call 808-246-0136 or toll-free 808-326-3356 for more information. Tours are also available on the Big Island in Hilo at 808-969-1259. Email: info@safarihelicopters.com, Web: www.safarihelicopters.com

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XX WORDS ANDREW WALSH

CLIMATE CHANGE Big Island Style WORDS ANDREW WALSH

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

t’s always winter in paradise. And—it’s always summer. Actually, it’s generally everything in between as well. Hawaiian weather contradicts convention. This may sound strange but only because on most of the Earth, it’s possible to predict likely weather and climate based on latitude. In the high northern and southern latitudes we get cold snowfall and tundra regions. At around 50 degrees (north and south) we find temperate forests. The desert and arid 30-degree latitudes are generally dry and hot, while the equator is home to the tropics. But Hawaiÿi defies this logic. The main Hawaiian Islands, sitting at 20 degrees latitude, contain all of these climate zones and more, on just a few specs of land hidden amidst one of the most isolated island chains in the entire world. Unique to this blue planet, the Hawaiian archipelago blasted forth from deep beneath the Pacific, creating the towering volcanoes of Mauna Kea and Haleakalä, the rolling fields of Waimea, the tropical beaches of Waikïkï and Makalawena, and the ancient forests of Kohala and Kauaÿi—each with unique climate patterns, creatures, topography, and character. Hawaiÿi became no ordinary place, particularly as weather and climate microcosms gave breath to countless divergent species. The ancient process of metamorphic birth and renewal has forged one of the most unique evolutionary powerhouses anywhere on Earth. Changing climates, topography, and temperatures are nature’s playground. Offer Mother Nature a flat expanse and she will give you a limited number of trees and animals that fit and flourish in such a uniform environment. Offer her towering mountains from sea to sky in that same expanse, and she will create countless creatures that thrive and subside in every nook and cranny of the changing landscape. This is essentially the story of Hawaiÿi. Long before humans were even a twinkle in the evolutionary eyesight of Mother Nature, the forces that would govern our lives here on the Big Island were already taking hold. The Hawaiian-Emperor Seamount Chain first emerged as a crumbling mass of molten lava thousands of feet below the surface of the ocean around 70-80 million years ago. As the enormous Pacific Plate began to drift northwest at a lumbering pace of only a few inches per year, a “hot spot” of seeping magma from the Asthenosphere under the plate began the slow, laborious formation of the Emperor Seamounts and the Hawaiian Ridge. At that time, the northernmost atolls in the Hawaiian chain, Kure and Midway, were situated in the presentday location of the Big Island and were much larger than the flat eroded islands slowly sinking beneath the waves that we see today. Fast forward to present-day. The southernmost end of this chain, the Big Island, gives daily reminders of this arduous birthing process—the constant explosive flows of Pele’s wrath and the quiet daily rumblings from deep below as the island’s

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Slowly moving northwest, the height and topography of the islands are torn away by time. . .

(whatever that is), biomes, and many other criteria. Even Aristotle got into the climate naming game. So depending on which classification you choose and how you define it, the results will be different. Complicating the matter is that systems change over time as scientists refine their methods. So what is a budding climatologist to do? Easy, just pick the most common and simple system. Most scientists, scholars, sorcerers, and snowmen consider the Koppen climate classification system the most widely accepted and accurate method for sorting out the wet from the dry. Using this system, based mainly on average annual and monthly values of temperature and precipitation, the Big Island has 4 of the 5 main climate zones and 8 of the 13 sub-zones, as previously noted. Now we could get really deep and dorky into how these zones are laid out on the island (see map), but the real wonder of this phenomena is how these varying climate zones commixed within unique landscapes and lit the spark that ignited a process evolutionary biologists love to discuss—adaptive radiation (sticking with the dorky bit here). Darwin’s famous example of finches on the Galápagos is a well-documented example of how fragmented landscapes and climate can encourage evolutionary diversification or adaptive radiation. It was these finches, as well as the diversity of life throughout the rest of the Galápagos that would inspire and inform his groundbreaking theories on natural selection and evolution. Too bad Darwin never made it to Hawaiÿi. He would have been enveloped by an even more profound diversity of climate and creatures. His finches diverged from just one or two into 14 distinct species. Impressive, but the Hawaiian equivalent, honeycreepers, have metamorphosed into at least 56 species from just two distinct finch-like birds who accidentally landed on these remote, birdless islands 4-8 million years ago. But birds are just the tip of the iceberg. Hawaiÿi is home to over 5,000 endemic species of insects including carnivorous caterpillars (Eupithecia niphoreas), giant dragonflies (giant Hawaiian darner), and more than a quarter of the world’s endemic flies. There are up to 70 distinct species of coral, a quarter of which are native, and :

ever-growing mass settles onto the Pacific Plate. Laid out over thousands of miles of endless ocean, it is apparent to the inquisitive observer that the southern islands, such as Hawaiÿi, form towering volcanoes cresting high above sea level. Slowly moving northwest, the height and topography of the islands are torn away by time and the erosive processes of wind, water, and gravity. Eventually, the islands become atolls until they reach the Darwin Point (so named for it was he who first described the life and death of atolls), when the sea reclaims the land that once broke free of it. Each of the 130 Hawaiian Islands, which include atolls and islets, has passed through this gauntlet of climate and weather. Even the eight main Hawaiian Islands are at slightly different stages in this journey today. This is why we find so many climates spread across such a small geographical area. As the youngest member of the chain, the Big Island is exposed to the most primitive throes of this ancient cycle. The changing landscapes and climates have also created the breeding ground for a multitude of unique creatures to evolve and occupy all the varying conditions that can be found on this one small island. The Big Island is home to 4 of the 5 main climate zones and 8 of the 13 sub-zones (more on this later). Considering that these zones represent the major climates found throughout every region and habitat on Earth, that is nothing short of amazing. Where else can you go skiing in the morning, diving at midday, explore a rainforest before dinner, and watch the stars from a grassy pasture at night? Unquestionably, even to the casual observer, dramatic shifts in weather, topography, and climate are only a short drive away from anywhere on the island. Which has created much debate over exactly how many climate zones and classifications can be found on the Big Island. You may have heard over the coconut wireless that Hawaiÿi has 8, 9, 10, 11, or 12 of the 13 climate zones? Or is it 12 of the 30 sub-zones? It’s hard to keep track, mainly because there are so many different systems used to classify climate. There is the Aridity index, Koppen climate classification, and the Holdridge life zone classification system, to name a few. Scientists have developed differing systems based on air mass types, plant hardiness, evapotranspiration

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over 450 species of reef fish, like the ÿaÿawa (Hawaiian hogfish) and mamo (sergeant major). Hawaiÿi has about 9,000 endemic species. These include some of the smaller, less thought about creatures like the 1,200 native land snails that evolved from between 22-24 original snail immigrants. And keep in mind Hawaiÿi occupies about .01% of the world’s terra firma. All of these evolutionary exploits are made possible by the countless environmental niches created by the multitude of climate zones clashing with the varying altitudes, valleys, streams, wet and dry sides, emerald bays, exposed coastlines, currents, weather patterns, and on and on. Perhaps one of the most unique and unlikely zones is Hawaiÿi’s polar tundra region high above the clouds of mighty Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Divided by Saddle Road, atop the tallest volcano in the world (Mauna Kea) and the most massive (Mauna Loa), resides two of the most sacred locations in all of Hawaiian culture. “White Mountain,” as the native Hawaiians called Mauna Kea, was so named for the snow-covered summit that can usually be seen throughout the winter months. Mauna Loa, or “Long Mountain,” is often capped by snow and has a base larger than some states. The Hawaiians believe that the fire goddess Pele thrust her ÿöÿö (digging stick) into Mauna Loa’s summit and created the fiery lava chambers and fearsome forces we still feel today. Pele was chased to Mauna Loa by her sister Nämakaokahaÿi, goddess bigislandtraveler.com

of water and the sea, after seducing her husband. Hawaiians considered these regions the origin of space, a place of creation where the sky and earth separated to form the heavens. Adopted into the scientific community, these heavenly gates have gained prominence as one of the premier astronomical observatories on Earth. A distinction often at odds with the spiritual and sacred value they hold for many Hawaiians. Home to 13 of the most powerful telescopes in the world, Mauna Kea’s peak rises above 40% of the Earth’s atmosphere. The ground consists of permanently frozen soil and, in most months, the average temperature is below 32° F (0° C). The unique and special characteristics of this high altitude, polar tundra region are perfect for a modern-day form of sky worship—astronomy. The air above Mauna Kea is very low in turbulence and extremely dry—two important requirements for measuring infrared and submillimeter radiation in far away galaxies. The number of clear, cloud-free nights is among the highest in the world due to its unique geography and height. Water vapor and air pollution are held well below the summit observatories by a tropical inversion layer about 600 meters thick that isolates the upper atmosphere from the lower. But that is not to say it’s always clear above the summit. In the winter months, it’s not uncommon for the National Weather Service to order blizzard warnings for the summit regions! 37

The one constant in Hawai' i is rebirth and renewal. But the Big Island is not unique among the Hawaiian Islands for distinct and diverse weather, climate, and creatures. From desert and semi-arid plains to mountain forests, pastoral plains, and rainforests, Kauaÿi possesses more climate variations than many countries. The four major islands (Oÿahu, Molokaÿi, Maui, Länaÿi) lying in between Kauaÿi and the Big Island also have varying climactic zones relative to their sizes and levels of erosion. Hawaiÿi’s unique weather patterns are intrinsically tied to its geology as the size and mass of each island’s volcanic peaks and mountains create the stage for a breathtaking natural play where the forces of nature act like dueling antagonists. Most of the Hawaiian Islands have a leeward side, to the south and west, and a windward side, to the north and east. The former is much drier and the latter is much wetter (often called the dry and wet sides). The northeast trade winds gather moisture as they run uninhibited over miles of the endless Pacific. Once the trades have the Hawaiian Islands in their sights, the monumental natural forces of rock and wind crash violently into one another. The windward side pushes weather and moisture up into the atmosphere causing it to then fall down as rain, creating the lush, tropical rainforest conditions of the east and northern shores of many of the Hawaiian Islands. This “orographic” rainfall often carves lush, breathtaking valleys (like Waipiÿo and Pololü on the Big Island), as it winds its way back towards the ocean, eroding the eastern flanks on its journey back to the sea. As the relentless forces of wind and water are cleaved by the presence of the mighty islands, they have left windward coastlines characteristic of this ancient struggle, such as the 3,315-ft high sea cliffs on Moloka‘i (the world’s highest) or Maui’s famous Pali Coast. The wind, of course, carries on to the leeward side of most the islands, but lacking moisture it creates the arid and semi-arid zones characteristic of the areas in south and west Kauaÿi and the Big Island. Therefore, the valleys and landscape of the leeward sides tend to be less dramatically eroded and not as steep. Sheltered by the windward flanks, they have been spared the worst erosive effects of Mother Nature and instead we are blessed with calmer beaches and sandy shorelines, like Häpuna Beach on myhawaiitraveler.com

the Kohala Coast, consistently voted as one of the world’s best! The Hawaiians had perhaps the simplest system to describe these varying climates and weather. They believed in two seasons: Kau—the fruitful season when the sun was overhead from May to October, the trade winds blew consistently, and the waters were calmer. And hoÿoilo—when the sun fell into the south from November to April, the weather cooled, and the trades became less predictable. Perhaps more so than modern people, they also recognized not just the diversity of life that the abundance of climates created within the bountiful islands, but also its sanctity. Although certainly they had some negative impacts on species and habitats, they created and adopted a communitybased structure of ecosystem management from mauka (mountain) to makai (sea) for the ÿäina (land), the poÿe (people), and the holoholona (creatures). Sadly, the influence of subsequent colonization would eventually create an extinction catastrophe, reversing millions of years of nature’s work in barely an evolutionary blink. Today, over half of all endemic birds in Hawai‘i are extinct, with 31 of the remaining 42 native species threatened with extinction. Nearly 25% of US endangered species are found in Hawaiÿi, even though it occupies only a fraction of the country and receives a tiny percent of endangered species funding. But the mana (spiritual power) and biological power plant that created these islands still rumbles deep within the belly of Pele’s fiery home. The one constant in Hawaiÿi is rebirth and renewal. The ancient evolutionary forces that forged the climates and creatures into this vibrant paradise the world has come to know still simmer in the mists of its hidden forests, lush valleys, lofty peaks, and countless clouded corners. Hawaiÿi continues to be a refuge for travelers and locals alike to find community, to gain deeper understandings of our place in time among the stars, to witness the brilliance of nature’s creativity, and to experience the massive forces shaping our climate, culture, and creature’s destiny. So toss on a raincoat, don a pair of slippers, bundle up in winter gear, slip into some hiking boots, light the fireplace, or kick on the air conditioner because Hawaiÿi is no ordinary place. 39

DESTINATIONS

THE KONA COAST

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 40

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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MIGHTY

MAUNA KEA

THE PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE OF A SACRED VOLCANO WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

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Rising 13,796 feet above the sea, Mauna Kea is an impressive landmark on the Big Island. The peak of this dormant volcanic mountain is the highest point in all of the Hawaiian Islands. It can be seen from many parts of the Big Island and from Maui on a clear day, but the truth is that standing on land, you’re only seeing part of Mauna Kea. More than half of this mountain is submerged, and it actually extends 19,700 feet below sea level to the ocean floor. If measured from its base to its peak, it is the tallest mountain on Earth, edging out Mount Everest by over 4,000 feet. Given the impressive statistics of Mauna Kea, it’s not surprising that Hawaiians of the past and present have considered this mountain to be sacred. It is the site of numerous ancient Hawaiian burial grounds and shrines. In Hawaiian mythology, Mauna Kea is believed to be the offspring of Wäkea, the Sky Father, and Papahänaumoku, the Earth Mother. It is the home of Poliÿahu, the snow goddess and a rival of Pele, the goddess of fire, who also resides on the Big Island. It is said that the glaciers that once existed on Mauna Kea were formed by a battle between these two rivals. Astronomers from around the world also hold Mauna Kea in high esteem. The lack of city lights and a clear, dry atmosphere at the top of the mountain make it an ideal location for astronomical observation. It currently holds 13 large telescopes near its summit that are used for astronomical research. While Native Hawaiians and astronomers both celebrate the mountain, there are major disagreements on how to best utilize it. From 2014 to 2015, an attempt to begin building the Thirty Meter Telescope on Mauna Kea made the mountain the center of an ongoing controversy between astronomers and Native Hawaiian activists. Astronomers believe Mauna Kea is the best location for what would be the most powerful telescope in the world to study neighboring and forming galaxies as well as our own solar system and stars throughout the Milky Way, while Native Hawaiian activists believe the telescope would be a desecration of a sacred place in addition to the telescopes that already exist there. Currently, the construction of the Thirty Meter Telescope has been halted indefinitely due to an issue with how the permits were obtained. bigislandtraveler.com

However, the Thirty Meter Telescope corporation still intends to obtain permits in order to build, and activists still oppose the telescope, so the battle continues. Despite the controversy, on most days, the boldest displays you’ll encounter on Mauna Kea are the otherworldly cinder cone landscapes, the sun, and the nighttime sky. Many people begin their exploration of Mauna Kea at the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station located at 9,200 feet. At this center, you can obtain more educational and safety information about the mountain. About five miles from the Visitor Information Station (VIS) is the Mauna Kea Ice Age Natural Area Reserve. Here, you’ll find the Mauna Kea Adz Quarry where ancient Hawaiians collected basalt rock to make tools. As you approach the summit, look out for ÿähinahina, or silversword, a unique plant endemic to Hawaiÿi. These silvery, spiky plants have adapted to the rugged conditions of Mauna Kea, but are under threat because of feral cattle, sheep, and goats that roam the slopes of the mountain. Significant conservation efforts have been made to protect the ÿähinahina and other endemic flora of the region, and the dwindling population of the ÿähinahina is growing through reintroduction. Near the summit of Mauna Kea, is Lake Waiau. At 13,020 feet above sea level, it is one of the highest lakes in the United States, and it is believed that the lake was formed from melted permafrost. To get here, you’ll need to do about a 1-mile round trip hike from the road. From the fall to spring, it occasionally snows at the top of Mauna Kea, making it possible to play in the snow and swim at a tropical beach in the same day. For locals and visitors alike, the opportunity to experience the snow in Hawaiÿi is too good to pass up, and people will flock to the mountain with whatever snow gear they can scrounge up when the peak gets a dusting of snow and it is safe to drive up. Due to the partially unpaved roads, four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended if you plan to drive past the VIS. It is always a good idea to check weather conditions before heading up to the summit of Mauna 43

Kea, as two-wheel drive vehicles may be restricted during inclement weather. If the weather is severe enough, the road may be closed altogether. Watching the sunrise or sunset from the summit of Mauna Kea can be a spectacular experience as you see the sun emerging from or sinking behind the fog below. If you are unable to go up to the summit for the sunset, another option is to watch it from Puÿu Kalepeamoa, also known as “Sunset Hill.” This spot is a 1.3-mile round-trip hike from the Visitor Information Station. Even if you’re not an astronomer, Mauna Kea is a great place to stargaze. Every night, the VIS provides a free stargazing program from 6pm to 10pm. During this program, you will have the opportunity to learn more about the history of Mauna Kea, view stars through a telescope, and take a star tour. If you prefer to go up to Mauna Kea with a guide, Mauna Kea Summit Adventures and Hawaii Forest & Trail both offer tours that include watching the sunset from the summit, stargazing, dinner, and hot beverages to warm you up when it gets chilly on the mountain. Regardless of the weather forecast, layers are highly important when visiting Mauna Kea, especially if you plan to stargaze at night. During the day, due to the proximity to the equator and high elevation, the sun can be bright, so ample sunscreen is also recommended for daytime excursions. Food for sale at the Visitor Information Station is limited, so it’s a good idea to bring snacks and picnic meals with you. With the dry, high altitude air, also be sure to bring plenty of water to stay hydrated. For any hiking you plan to do on Mauna Kea, it’s a good idea to gradually acclimatize yourself. Before engaging in physical activity at or near the summit, it is recommended to spend time at the Visitor Information Station adjusting to the altitude. It may also help to hike at lower elevations in order to build stamina before hiking at higher elevations. However you choose to spend your time on Mauna Kea, there are fascinating scenes all around. Exploring the unique and diverse landscapes of its slopes, you can admire how this mountain unites the sea, land, and sky as you stand atop a volcano that persevered for a million years to emerge from the ocean and reach such great heights. In this place, you feel grounded in the Earth’s splendor while always looking toward the sun and the stars. Sunsets, Stars and Snow After you experience one of the most dramatic sunsets in all of Hawai‘i atop Mauna Kea Summit, stay for surreal night skies with endless twinkling stars, bright constellations and cloudscapes like you have never seen before. Find out for yourself why Mauna Kea is the supreme location for astronomers to look into space and why locals claim it’s the best spot on the planet to stargaze and get their winter fix. Check your rental car agreement before you drive up on your own and be prepared for wintery conditions. For road conditions and weather report message, call (808) 935-6268. Best to go with experienced guides for comfort, knowledge, powerful telescopes, warm parkas, hot chocolate, and dinner. Hawaii Forest & Trail (808) 331-3635 or Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (808) 322-2366. 44

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STYLE

ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of

their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com.

A CUT ABOVE

MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur features the finest home furnishings and personal accessories made with Koa, the beautiful wood grown only in Hawaii. Come see our elegant Koa wood watches, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa iPhone and iPad covers, and Koa sunglasses. We have been making fine Koa furniture for over 50 years. We feature the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, model canoes, Hawaiian feather lei and ancient Hawaiian weapons made by over 200 local Hawaii craftsmen. Located at the Kings’ Shops. Call (808) 845-6688 or visit martinandmacarthur.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including,

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PASSING THE TORCH candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.

PHOTO COURTESY: (MID RIGHT) ALYSIA MARIE PHOTOGRAPHY - @ALMAPHOTOGRAPH

QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 325-4765. REAL ESTATE WAI‘ULA‘ULA Enjoy untouched Hawaiian luxury in the exclusive community of Waiulaula at the Mauna Kea Resort. Tucked away in the secluded slopes of the nationally ranked Mauna Kea and Hapuna Golf Course fairways, Wai‘ula‘ula offers serious golfers a chance to challenge their skills. Relax and unwind in your private heated saltwater pool and spa, away from the hustle of tourists. Only minutes from the Mauna Kea Resort's white sand beach. Featuring brand new luxury single-family and duplex condominium residences. For current availability or to schedule a private viewing, please contact the sales center at (808) 217-9696.

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t all started in 1983, when brothers Flint and Gale Carpenter created Big Island Jewelers, a jewelry business based on timeless goldsmith traditions, specializing in one-of-a-kind custom pieces and fine gemstones in the heart of Kailua-Kona. Founded on the philosophy of "less is more" and practicing diligence and respect when designing every piece of jewelry, the family business has reached a point in time where the torch must be passed on to the next generation. That transition began on January 1, 2015, when son and nephew Chance Carpenter, began his journey as a goldsmith. Currently training as a Goldsmith Apprentice, Chance is prepared to lead the business into the future. Defined by ageless traditions, Chance wants to continue the traditions of a goldsmith—evoking passion & being respectful of generations of thoughtful craftsmen from every corner of the Earth, while creating meaningful expressions of elegance and clarity in his pieces. Below is Chance's first original design, completely crafted by hand—from wax to casting, finishing and setting of the diamonds and black Tahitian pearl. His work is just beginning, and with it his unique mark on the fine jewelry industry.

"I want to write one line in the magnificent history book of fine jewelry. " -CHANCE CARPENTER, GOLDSMITH APPRENTICE

STYLE

FLAWLESS STYLE

ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship. The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be proud to wear herself. Hildgund is forever searching the world for precious stones

"I WANT TO GIVE OUR CUSTOMERS A ONE-OFA-KIND PERFECT PIECE THAT THEY CAN'T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE." -BRUCE BUCKY, PRESIDENT

that are transformed into wondrous works of art by designers from Hawai‘i and around the globe. Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BOLD STATEMENTS

Tiffany T hinged wrap bracelet in 18k gold with diamonds (above, $7,000.00). Tiffany T two ring in 18k gold with pavĂŠ diamonds (right, $6,900.00, $6,900.00). Available at Tiffany & Co. in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-1931.

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STYLE

BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

STYLE

PIECES OF PARADISE

Kimberly McDonald One of a Kind Triple Water Opal Slice Cuff with Signature KMD Irregular Diamond Bezel set in 18K Rose Gold (left, $67,825). Kimberly McDonald One of a Kind Boulder Opal Earrings with Diamond and Emerald Bezels set in 18K Yellow and 18K White Gold with Black Rhodium (right, $29,600). Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort.

Kīlauea Volcano glass vase by Hawai‘i craftsman Daniel (left, $1850). Self-winding automatic Koa watch with precision 21 jewel movement and Sapphire crystal face (right, $1950). Available at Martin & MacArthur in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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GOLF

Spirit of the Whale WORDS ANDREW WALSH

wo hundred feet high above Kawaihae Bay on a calm summer day in 1791, the king of all Hawaiian kings—Kamehameha— waited on guard atop Puÿukoholä Heiau. From this lofty temple on Hawaiÿi Island, he gazed makai (seaward) over a calm ocean fully expecting his prophecy to unite the Hawaiian Kingdom to commence. Following the prophet Kapoukahi’s rigid guidelines to honor his war god Kükäÿilimoku, Kamehameha built a sacred heiau upon the hill (puÿu) of the whale (koholä), even helping with manual labor, per the prophet’s instructions. The Hawaiian word for whales— palaoa—was originally used to describe any whale, but subsequently came to denote just toothed sperm whales and whale ivory. Koholä replaced this general term for whales, but furthermore came to describe mainly the humpback whale. High atop Puÿukoholä Heiau, Kamehameha waited for his prophecy to begin. So too, the mystery of the koholä and its unearthly incantations also begins. Of the many Hawaiian myths, histories, chants, and gods, those surrounding the whale are mysterious, obscure, and often debated. It’s been suggested that the koholä was an ÿaumakua (deified ancestor) of

King Kamehameha. Since he would voyage across the sea and unite the Hawaiian Kingdom, his family connection to such a powerful seagoing creature was auspicious mana (spiritual power). Even the name of the heiau he built has multiple meanings as koholä also translates into “chosen day.” So which namesake was more important to Kamehameha, the “chosen day” or the “hill of the whale?” And herein lies the beauty and mystery found in much of Hawaiian mythology and lore, particularly those associated with whales—often the same chant or myth can be interpreted many different ways. The Hawaiian legends of whales are often as mysterious as their musical language we still try to decipher today. Passed from one generation to the next, Hawaiian oral histories are living entities with intricate dynamics and abstract often profound messages—much more than simple descriptions of the past. And just as we endeavor to unravel and reveal the meanings of these myths, so too, we hope to interpret the wisdom of the enchanting incantations of the mighty humpback. Though our understanding of Hawaiian whale myths and the mysterious whale songs is often incomplete, we continue BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

to listen and learn, as the story of how to find Hawaiÿi is hidden within both. The Hawaiians had no written language. And, like the humpbacks, both of their stories— past, present, and future—have been sung over and over again, on and on since time eternal. Like any oral tradition, to grasp the meaning, significance, and subtleties of these chants requires an intimate awareness of the hidden context that only the singer and the intended audience understand. A skilled chanter can create multiple layers of possible translation. And much like our incomplete understanding of the verses, stanzas, and repeated choruses of the humpback’s language, modern interpretation of Hawaiian mythology is often a guessing game of varying perspectives. For example, Kamehameha has also been called Paiÿea, which resembles closely the pronunciation of a Mäori prophet called Paikea (Paiÿea pronounced in Mäori) who rode a whale from what some describe as Hawaiki (similar sounding to Hawaiÿi). Does this connection have extra meaning in context of the temple on “whale hill” from which he crossed the seas and united his island kingdom? And what about his family ÿaumakua, the koholä? This powerful earthly form of an ancient Hawaiian deity certainly seems celestially aligned with his strength, character, and ambitions. The family ÿaumakua provided spiritual guidance and a connection between the physical and spiritual worlds often appearing in dreams or visions. The koholä is said to be the greatest form of Kanaloa, the primordial deity for the ocean, its creatures, fresh water, salt water, and all the growth on earth and in the sea. It has even been sung that Kanaloa, in the form of a whale, led the ancient Polynesian mariners safely through the vast expanse of endless blue, to the Island of Hawaiÿi. As one of the four major gods of Hawaiian folklore, Kanaloa, in the form of a whale, would have been a powerful force to help Kamehameha navigate his destiny. However, he was not the only chief to align his powers with the koholä. The aliÿi (royalty), seeking the strength and mana of the whales, wore lei niho palaoa (whale tooth necklaces) whenever possible. The rare ivory from the whales was difficult to find, but for those who wore it, they literally encompassed a physical manifestation of the mighty sea god, Kanaloa, around their neck. This immediately afforded them characteristics and knowledge reserved exclusively for the gods. The necklace was composed of braided human hair and a tongue-shaped pendant made from the ivory of a toothed whale, such as a sperm whale. Humpbacks have baleen filaments, in place of teeth, that filter out their microscopic meals. So although the lei niho palaoa could not be from the koholä, these sacred necklaces—the second most prized artifact a royal member could posses (the feather cloak being the highest)—demonstrated the spiritual importance Hawaiians attributed to whales as sacred beings. Not surprisingly, there are even ancient petroglyphs of what appears to be a human riding a whale found on Länaÿi, Maui, and the Big Island. The most interesting on Länaÿi is located in an area called Palaoa Hill (Whale Hill) and many consider it a representation of the legend of Makua’s Prayer. Makua was a priest who prayed to his gods, Käne and Kanaloa, asking that his son would become an even greater kahuna (priest) than himself. One day, Käne (god of procreation that sustains life) and Kanaloa visit Makua and grant him the wish. Many years pass and Makua thinks the gods have forgotten their promise. Until one day while working near the beach with his son, a whale washes ashore. As the villagers rush to glimpse the spectacular sight of this transcendent creature, Makua’s son climbs on its back. Suddenly the whale returns to life and carries the boy far away to the spiritual realm of the gods. Makua is heartbroken at the loss of his son until one day his gods return in a dream. They tell him the whale was a messenger whom they sent and not to worry as the boy is well and learning the ways of their ancestors.

WAIKOLOA BEACH COURSE - HOLE #7

Retold through the generations, this myth is important as it shows the connections ancient Hawaiians had with whales, but also it further links Hawaiian culture to the whale riding myths of their ancestors, the Polynesians. Although the full extent of the humpback whales’ significance is shrouded in Hawaiian culture, there are many sacred places associated with the koholä throughout the Hawaiian Islands. Off western Maui is located the smallest main Hawaiian Island known as Kahoÿolawe, or Kanaloa, in ancient chants. It shelters Ahupü Bay, the western point of which is known as Lae o Nä Koholä, or Cape of Whales. From here the ancient poetic paukü (verse) tellers captured and retold the story of the seasonal migratory route of the great Pacific humpbacks as they passed over the seven-mile ÿAlaläkeiki Channel between Maui and Kahoÿolawe. On the Garden Isle of Kauaÿi and the Orchid Isle of the Big Island (just south of Puÿukoholä Heiau) is an area known as Kapalaoa (The Whale). Legend tells of when Käne and Kanaloa sent a whale messenger to Kapalaoa to transport a worshiper named Makuakaÿümana to Käne’s hidden land of Känehünämoku. And on Länaÿi, an ancient island inhabited by man-eating spirits and fiendish ghouls controlled by the sorceress, Pahulu, is the place of Halepalaoa or the “Whale House.” But its significance remains clouded among the myths of the koholä. Surrounded by the spirited depths of the Pacific, the Hawaiians associated many sacred places with the koholä, such as Koholälele (Leaping Whale) on Oÿahu, Mökoholä (Cut Whale) and Kukuipalaoa (Whale Bone Lamp) on Molokaÿi, Kaipalaoa (Whale Sea) in Hilo, and Palaoa Hill (Whale Hill) on Länaÿi. Many of the winds around Hawaiÿi have also been given names such as Koholälele (Leaping Whale), perhaps in reference to the acrobatic breaching behavior of the humpbacks. And despite their expertise in hunting and navigating as seafaring people, there are no records of ancient Hawaiians hunting these sacred creatures until the arrival of American pelagic whalers in 1819. However, whales were being hunted recklessly and relentlessly throughout the world at the time of Kamehameha. Interestingly, the Kumulipo chant—the Hawaiian chant of creation—foretold of this eternal bond that humankind disrespected, at its own peril, between the ÿäina (land) and the kai (sea). It spoke of the palaoa (original word for whales) and their spiritual guardians, the ÿaoa (sandalwood 56

trees), living on the ÿäina. One constantly watched over and protected the other. Hanau ka Palaoa noho i kai, Kia‘i ia e ka Aoa noho i uka (Born is the whale living in the sea, Kept by the sandalwood living on land)! But during the 18th century, the ÿaoa tree was overharvested to near extinction for its fragrant wood. Once devitalized of its spiritual guardian, the whales had little protection from the enormous appetite of the whaling ships and most species joined their depleted brethren in near or total extinction. Thankfully, the mighty humpbacks narrowly escaped extinction and continue their annual migration to calve and give birth to a new generation of kamaÿäina (children of the land) here in Hawaiÿi. It comes as no surprise that whales are shrouded in Hawaiian myth and legend. Much like their operatic vocals, the mana which whales possess may have been so sacred that few but the aliÿi were allowed to speak or know the whale’s secret knowledge. But doubtlessly, this mana in both legend and mythical presence is continuously felt. The sun rises over the sacred whales places across the Hawaiian Islands, the seas ebb and flow, and the whale returns again and again. The story of Hawaiÿi’s past and future is hidden somewhere in the melodic songs of these whales, just as the story of the whale is hidden in the poetic paukü (passages) of the ancient Hawaiians and the deepening conversation we cultivate with our ocean brethren. Spoken loudly across time and space, the ancient words of the Kumulipo creation chant flow through generation after generation, telling how palaoa (the whale) was brought into creation—Hanau ka palaoa noho i kai (Born is the whale living in the ocean)! Hanau ka palaoa noho i kai (Born is the whale living in the ocean)! Great spots to whale watch from shore Nearly 10,000 whales visit the Hawaiian waters yearly. Some great locations to whale watch: Kaÿüpülehu, A-Bay, Kaunaÿoa (Mauna Kea) Beach, Häpuna Beach, Lapakahi State Park, Kïholo Bay, Punalu‘u Black Sand and Ka Lae. Sightseeing at its finest Watch the majestic humpback whales as they frolic in our warm waters while relaxing on a comfortable catamaran with food and drink. If you are lucky, you might even hear the hauntingly beautiful whale song. Try Body Glove Cruises (888) 980-7513 or Mauna Lani Sea Adventures (808) 885-7883. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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MAUNA LANI - SOUTH COURSE #15

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert 58

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Mauna Kea Golf Course, Hole #3

Hapuna Golf Course, Hole #6

GOLF THE DREAM. Always serene, never tame.

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HISTORIC NORTH & SUNNY SOUTH Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 60

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

SUNSET & FIRELIGHT DINING

MANTA

COPPER BAR

Fine Dining paired with the Finest Wines

Craft Cocktails and Tapas

Always serene, Never tame.

OnlyMaunaKea.com

MAUNA KEA LUâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;AU

HAU TREE

Authentic Hawaiian Dinner and Show

Beachside Casual Dining/ Clambake

Reservations recommended: 808.882.5707 bigislandtraveler.com

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64 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 68 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 70 THE HOT SPOT 72 CULINARY Q&A 76 SIP THE SEASON 78 HANGOVER CURES 82 GLOBAL FLAVORS

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KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368. COAST GRILLE At Coast Grille, Executive Chef, Peter Abarcar Jr and Chef de Cuisine, Vince Logan are passionate in the pursuit of the freshest island ingredients where sustainable, organic and wild ingredients are sourced to present, Island Seafood Gastronomy. Dine overlooking the breathtaking Pacific and indulge in the Coast Grille Oyster Bar featuring the freshest seafood including seasonal oysters with your choice of tempting sauces on the half shell or as a shooter. Also presented are local delicacies including Salt Water Poached Kona Abalone and Fresh Catch Poke, made to order. Located at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. For reservations call (808) 880-1111. COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its 64

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.

SEAFOOD

IMARI Discover Imari - a captivating Japanese restaurant, featuring many distinctive styles of Japanese cuisine. Indulge in the Big Island’s only location for teppanyaki dining. Experience chef artistry at the Sushi Bar and sample a variety of fresh delicacies. Delight in washoku, an authentic Japanese dining experience. Take pleasure in the succulent dishes available at this truly tantalizing eatery. Located in the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234. bigislandtraveler.com

3-5:30pm 10pm - closing

EARLY BIRD SPECIALS

BAR & GRILL I N

D O W N T O W N

5:30-6:30pm

NFL SUNDAY BREAKFASTS

KA WA I H A E

Kick-off to 11am

SASHIMI • STEAKS • FRESH FISH • CLAMS • BURGERS • SALADS Tuesday Night is KIAWE SMOKED PRIME RIB NIGHT 3 Big Screen HDTVs

Showing Major Sporting Events • NFL Football Package

HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525.

HAPPY HOUR DAILY

OPEN DAILY 11AM - 2AM

808-880-9393

Seafood Bar & Grill Best Restaurant in Kawaihae

AIR-CONDITIONED 61-3642 KAWAIHAE ROAD WWW.SEAFOODBARGRILL.COM

2011

Happy Hour 3-6 pm Everyday

Live Music Thursday-Saturday HAND-TOSSED GOURMET PIZZA

OVER 20 BEERS ON TAP

Craft Beers, Fresh Foods, Sports and Superb Hospitality! TropicsAleHouse.com

Come in for a 10% Discount WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa 808-886-4287

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona 808-498-4507

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AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

Brownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy

KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234. MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. NORIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;up close and personalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000.

tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardZLQQLQJ Ă DYRUV IHDWXULQJ ORFDOO\ JURZQ SURGXFH 6DYRU WKH EHVW IURP WKH VXUI DQG WKH WXUI 'LQQHU VHUYHG QLJKWO\ IURP 5:30 to 8:30 pm. )RU UHVHUYDWLRQV FDOO RU YLVLW IDLUPRQW FRP RUFKLG KDZDLL

NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Number 3â&#x20AC;? - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course.For reservations call (808) 882-5810. QUEENSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKETPLACE â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Starâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s season eight finalist, Philip â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ippyâ&#x20AC;? Aiona introduces â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ippyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hawaiian BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Arby’s, Dairy Queen/ Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allen Hess has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel bigislandtraveler.com

& Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations. THE KOA TABLE BY CHEF IPPY Chef Ippy Aiona’s lakeside restaurant features locally-sourced ingredients with Chef Ippy's brilliant execution, and is quickly becoming a popular spot for Hawai‘i diners. Chef Ippy was the youngest person to have been featured on the TV show Food Network Star (Season 8), and has received numerous accolades for his creative and innovative cuisine which mixes European cooking techniques with fresh local cuisine ingredients. Located at Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa Beach Resort. For reservations call (808) 339-7145. TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information. ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi

lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000. KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949. 67

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

DAILY CATCH

ne of the highlights of any trip to Hawaiÿi is not only being able to dine on the freshest fish available, but also some you may have never tried or even heard of. The Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay’s signature restaurant, Rays on the Bay, has made the freshest catch the highlight of their menu. Each day, Chef Junior Ulep and his team create a new “crudo of the day,” a dish composed of raw fish marinated in citrus, that features the freshest seafood from the docks of Keauhou Bay. The dish changes daily, based upon what the fishermen haul back to shore, coupled with the best local produce available. Recent creations include fresh

IMAGE COURTESY: SHERATON KONA RESORT & SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

‘ahi (Hawaiian tuna) with compressed watermelon, briny seaweed salad with a mouthwatering smoked paprika vinaigrette. Also recently sampled was the mahimahi combined with mango, pickled radishes with a tart Meyer lemon and spicy, Peruvian-inspired ají amarillo sauce. Because no crudo is ever repeated, each dining experience is unique and memorable, taking freshness to a whole new yummy level. Rays on the Bay is located oceanfront at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay along the Kona Coast. For dinner reservations, call (808) 930-4900, or visit their website raysonthebay.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

IMAGE COURTESY: SHERATON KONA RESORT AT KEAUHOU BAY

HOLY SMOKE!

he Big Island is known for a variety of food products around the state and beyond like coffee, abalone and lobster from Kona and mushrooms from Hämäkua. But one product, Hawaiian Volcano Sea Salt, is slowly starting to make a name for itself, combining access to local sea salt with smoking techniques, self-taught in Hawaiÿi, to create an unrivaled, one-of-a-kind product. Not only can local and visiting foodies use this product to jazz up their homecooked meals, but celebrated chefs have also become enthusiastic about this special seasoning to enhance their tasty creations. When Sam Wilburn and his wife Paige left their home in Texas to move to Hawaiÿi, he was gifted with a jar of smoked salt and was immediately hooked. However, once he relocated to Waimea, smoked salt was virtually impossible to get a hold of. That’s when his dedication to creating a world-class product began. He uses salt

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harvested from the deep Pacific Ocean off the Kona Coast, and then smokes it with local woods, such as kiawe and guava. In order to ensure consistency, Sam smokes the salt for around 48 hours, until the taste, color, and aroma is just right. This tasty product just might reseason your concept of the flavors of Hawaiÿi. Hawaiian Volcano Sea Salt can be found sprinkled on the dishes at a variety of restaurants around the Island. But for those looking for some of their own, they sell their products each Saturday at the Waimea Town Farmers Market, the farmers market at the Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa on Wednesdays, and the Kokua Kailua Art Stroll through historic downtown Kailua-Kona on the third Sunday of each month. You can also find more information and purchasing options at HawaiianVolcanoSeaSalt.com. 69

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THE BEE'S KNEES

here’s an exciting buzz in the air at the Fairmont Orchid. Recently tapping into their newest culinary offering, the Fairmont Orchid partnered with the Rare Hawaiian Honey Company to operate their own honey harvesting operation. Utilizing Flow Hives, a modern beehive that allows users to turn a key to release honey without breaking the comb, the resident bees wander into the kiawe (mesquite) forest located on the corner of the resort’s property, collecting nectar from the delicious kiawe blossoms. These bees then work tirelessly to create one of the rarest and most sought after honeys in the world— kiawe honey. When the kiawe blossoms aren’t in bloom, the bees forage for nectar in other tropical plants nearby. For guests and diners at the Fairmont Orchid, this notable honey is available at the Orchid Court breakfast buffet as well as for those on Fairmont Gold, while the chefs continue devising other ways to include this special ingredient in their restaurant and bar menus. And as an added bonus, these resident bees and their groundbreaking hives promote sustainability, as well as education for guests on the importance of these busy little workers. After tasting this exceptional honey, you’ll never forget just how uniquely sweet life is on the Big Island. The Fairmont Orchid is located within the Mauna Lani Resort Area along the Kohala Coast. For more information about the hotel and their dining options, visit their website at fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii or call (808) 885-2000.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

WWLN OOH BABY!

f you’ve ever found yourself so hungry you could eat a horse, how about a burrito the size of a baby? Lucy’s Taqueria in downtown Hilo has you covered. One of the things they are known for is their oversized Burrito Grande featuring not one, but two flour tortillas stuffed with your choice of meats and all the usual suspects. For those who are perhaps a little less ravenous, Lucy’s regularly sized burritos are still generously portioned. With a wide selection of flavorful dishes beyond burritos, including menudo, pozole, tacos, and enchiladas, the people of Hilo line up to chow down. The photo of the baby sitting next to the Burrito Grande at the cash register, along with the various colorful donkeys the staff use as table markers, demonstrate that a sense of humor coupled with commitment to fresh ingredients and good food will bring you crawling back for more. Lucy’s Taqueria is located at 194 Kilauea Avenue in downtown Hilo. They are open for both lunch and dinner and serve an all-day breakfast menu as well. For more information, call (808) 315-8246, or visit their website at lucystaqueria.com.

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THE

HOT SPOT

HONU BAR

athering together to share an after dinner cocktail along the Kohala Coast just got a whole lot more enjoyable. Honu Bar, at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, is the new place for friends and family to come together in the evening. After taking a brief hiatus as a bar for a few years, Honu Bar, named after the Kohala Coast’s resident green sea turtles, is back and ready to entertain. Whether you're looking for a light snack or a full meal, Honu Bar’s menu can satisfy any craving. Sous Chef Bryceson Velez has created the perfect menu that takes bar food to the next level. Highlighting local produce and fresh ingredients, Honu Bar features small plates that are big on taste. From Lemongrass Chicken Wings, specialty sushi rolls, savory poke (fresh fish) bowls to rice and noodles with spicy garlic shrimp and fried egg, fresh garden salads, and everything in between, the eclectic menu is sure to have something for everybody in your group. The Fried Chicken with taegu (cuttlefish), green onion sauce, is perfectly sized to share and features charred peppers to spice up the crunchy, juicy chicken. The BBQ Pork Pizza’s tangy house-made 72

sauce on the smoky pork hits all the right notes, and crustiness and softness of the dough is just perfect. Other pizza options include more traditional flavors, such as pepperoni and a Margherita style. Whether you’re looking for tasty appetizers to go with your cocktails, or sampling a variety of different flavors for dinner on date night, Honu Bar has you covered. Honu Bar offers a wide-ranging drink menu, featuring delicious handcrafted libations, such as house martinis and premium cocktails. Standouts include the refreshing Blueberry Basil martini, featuring Absolut vodka, as well as the tropics-inspired Coconut Mule, a new twist on the Moscow Mule, with Malibu coconut rum, lime, and ginger beer, topped off with some basil. These refreshing concoctions are the perfect start, or end, to any evening. For those who prefer a refreshing, cold beer, Honu Bar offers local selections from worldfamous Kona Brewery, as well as from the award-winning Big Island Brewhaus in Waimea. Wine connoisseurs can sample different varieties of wine by the glass or by the bottle from the well stocked house wine BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: MAUNA LANI BAY HOTEL & BUNGALOWS

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

selection, or splurge on a bottle from their reserve list. Honu Bar even has “mocktails” such as the honu lemonade, with strawberries and blueberries, so that everyone in your group can sip a deliciously handcrafted concoction! With both pre- and post-dinner happy hours, guests can sample a delicious drink before heading out or before heading in for the night. Each evening, a live local musician performs from 8pm to 10pm. This creates a casual, relaxed atmosphere, perfect for winding down after a long day exploring the Big Island. Its classic island décor, with rattan chairs and sliding white doors, add an air of elegance to the comfortable and inviting space. Above the bar, a beautiful fresco of the different volcanoes seen from the resort, painted by local artist Marcia Ray, adds stunning pops of color. You can even catch a glimpse of the eponymous honu making an appearance in the painting. Featuring bar as well as communal style seating, couples and larger groups can find the perfect configuration to gather and share stories, bigislandtraveler.com

highlights of their trip, or discuss the tempting options on the menu. The open-air feeling provided by floor to ceiling glass windows that overlook the tranquil Honu Gardens provide guests with the sense of sharing a meal or drink in their own home in paradise. No matter what tastes each member of your group is craving, whether it is pre or post dinner cocktails, small plates to whet your dinner appetite, or a whole meal of eclectic plates, Honu Bar has the variety you’re looking for. Combined with a comfortable setting and tempting, refreshing cocktails, Honu Bar has arrived as the destination for evening entertainment. Honu Bar is located within the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows, located in the Mauna Lani Resort Area. They offer happy hours twice daily from 5pm to 6pm and 9pm to 10pm, as well as regular dinner specials. To view the dinner menu, or to learn more information, visit their website at maunalani.com/hawaii-big-island-dining. 73

CHEF MASSIMO FALSINI WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

What initially sparked your passion for food? Well, my story is little different from most of my fellow Italians who decided to spend their life behind the stove; there is a little less romance. No grandma or mama cooking together kind of deal. I started at the age of 16 in a small trattoria in Rome—Felice a Testaccio, which at that time had one Michelin star. I was washing dishes and stealing with my eyes the art from the Chef de Partie in the pasta station. I started working in a restaurant because my family of small artisan charcutier fell victim to the explosion of the big stores and industrialization of charcuterie production. So I needed some cash to support my education, as my dream was to become a broker and work in the stock BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

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CULINARY A Q&A

s the Executive Chef of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, Chef Massimo Falsini has been instrumental in overseeing the rise of two of the best restaurants on the Big Island—Beach Tree Restaurant and ‘ULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge. However, while growing up in Italy, Chef Massimo never envisioned a life as a chef. After a few chance encounters in world-renowned Michelin-starred restaurants, Chef Massimo’s passion for food exploded, leading him on a path to the Big Island. By fusing traditional European techniques with local ingredients, he creates exceptional dishes that are simply delicious—and cravable.

market. So I was on the pot wash for about eight months when the Chef de Partie, Rocco, called in sick for two weeks and Chef Antonio asked me to try to cover his station as he liked my food every time I was playing with the sauté pans. Well, those two weeks the chef received unprecedented compliments on the “primi” and since then I never stopped. I literally fell in love with cooking and discovered I have a fine sense of taste, technique, and resilience. What’s your earliest food memory? Why was it so memorable? Definitely clams and mussels. Just when they open on the pan—the harmony of the lightly roasted garlic, the artichoke essence of extra virgin olive oil, the back sweetness of the white wine, and the natural salinity of this dish—it truly excites me! What is your favorite part about being a chef here on the Big Island? What inspires you? Hawaiÿi Island is like a theme park for chefs! With 11 different climate zones, we can grow almost anything. Our produce never touches the chiller. This is unbelievable, as the farmers are harvesting in the morning and delivering to us in the early afternoon—we serve the food that evening! It does not get better than this!

Tree will feature more seafood and locally sourced meats. One of the most exciting new offerings is our organic oysters, which we grow at Hualälai on our on-property farm. We’ll be introducing oysters from the Pacific Coast, much smaller and more salty, in addition to our current East Coast variety. What is your most memorable dining experience that you’ve had here on the Big Island? Cooking together with the tomato farmer for their family lüÿau. The sense of acceptance of being part of an ‘ohana (family)—that’s real aloha. Nothing can match this. Beach Tree Restaurant, ÿULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge, and Hualälai Grille are located at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. Complimentary valet parking is available. Call (808) 325-8000 for reservations.

What are your favorite ingredients that you can only get locally? The ingredients we source here at Hualälai are up to 85% local from over 165 farmers, ranchers, and fishermen. This says a lot about our commitment to keeping things regional, seasonal, and artisanal. As for my favorite local ingredient—it’s got to be the Big Island Abalone. There’s just nothing like it anywhere else. If we were to take a peek into your refrigerator/pantry, what is the most surprising ingredient we would find? How about organic peanut butter! Something I had never heard of or tried until my wife turned me onto it. I was trying to get her to eat a pigeon cooked medium-rare so she bet me she would get me to love peanut butter. She succeeded. I have it every day with breakfast. My mom still does not understand what it is. What’s the one food item you can’t live without? Extra virgin olive oil and salt. What do you think surprises your dining guests the most about the food scene found at the restaurants at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai? How simple and fresh our cuisine here is. I love to let the ingredients speak about themselves. This year during Chef Fest, I challenged myself to cook a dish with only two ingredients. I came up with this Mac Nut Beurre (butter) and Kampachi (only macadamia nut and fish)—and it was incredible! Even the salt was extracted from the Kampachi skin. It was a true expression of what we do here at Hualälai. What do you consider to be your signature dish or a must try at your restaurants? From Beach Tree: Cacio e Pepe, and House-made Burrata with WOW Tomatoes; from ÿULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge: Seared Snapper with Polynesian Curry, and Bluefin Poke; From Hualälai Grille: Grass-Fed Paniolo Cattle Chateaubriand with Bone Marrow. Are there any upcoming specials, available January through April, that guests should know about? Burrata from our cows raised on the Kohala Coast. We pick up the milk on Thursday and we make the cheese on Friday. We’ll also have a new menu in ‘ULU featuring more eclectic Pacific Rim flavors. Additionally, Beach bigislandtraveler.com

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SIP THE SEASON SPRING WINES TO ENJOY WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

he sunny skies and brisk temperatures of spring set the picture-perfect backdrop to uncorking a bottle of wine to share with friends and loved ones over an elegant al fresco meal. As birds chirp and sweet flora fill the air, you will find that spring time is the perfect time of year to fall in love with a delightful and delicious bottle of wine. Burgundy, offering some of the truest expressions of Chardonnay, is home to the wine region known as Chablis. As the most northern wine region in Burgundy, Chablis has a cool climate which translates to a bright acidity in the wine grapes and refined fruit characteristics on the palate. Historically, wine in Chablis was aged in feuillettes (neutral oak caskets), but over the years, winemakers have transitioned to using stainless steel tanks to vinify their Chablis, creating wines with bright citrus flavors, notes of white flowers, refined minerality, and a mouthwatering salinity that makes Chablis wines easy to enjoy with food.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The 2013 Maison William Fèvre Chablis “Champs Royaux” ($19.99/bottle; klwines.com) is a great example of an elegant Chablis to enjoy this spring. Flavors of light bruised apple and kiwi delicately dance upon the palate while the fine acidity creates a wonderful balance to the wine. Enjoy this with a plateau de fruits de mer (plate of shellfish) served alongside mignonette and cocktail sauce. The graceful minerality of this Chablis will enhance the sweetness of the shellfish while the citrus flavors will act like fresh squeezes of lemon to cleanse the palate between bites. If you are looking for a fuller expression of Chardonnay, simply travel further south within the Burgundy region to the Mâcon district where their white Burgundy is affectionately known as the Helen of Troy of Chardonnay and a gold standard representation of the varietal. Specifically, the region of Pouilly-Fuissé within the Mâconnais is particularly well known for their Chardonnay vineyards, which were created during Roman times when Chardonnay grapes were originally brought to the region. The 2014 Chateau Vitallis Pouilly-Fuissé Vielles Vignes ($24.99/ bottle; klwines.com) is an exceptionally exquisite bottling. Upon the attack (initial taste), flavors of quince and mandarin oranges play upon the palate which develop into a buttery-soft, caramel finish. Being a little fuller in body than its cousin Chablis in the north, the wines of Mâcon will pair flawlessly with a seafood risotto—the butter imparted from its oak aging will complement the cream and butter found in the risotto, while the minerality innate to Chardonnay of Burgundy will accentuate the sweetness of the shrimp, creating an enchanting pairing. If you are looking for a white wine off the beaten path, opt for a glass of Fumé Blanc. This style of wine was created by Robert Mondavi in the late 1960s, and is now a legally accepted synonym for Sauvignon Blanc. Mondavi, frustrated by the lack-luster reputation of the sweeter style of Sauvignon Blanc coming out of California, sought to produce a dry Sauvignon Blanc created in California yet vinified in a French style similar to that of wines produced in Pouilly-Fumé in the Loire Valley. Mondavi added a bit of oak aging to his style of dry Sauvignon Blanc to create a rounder mouthfeel and lush texture. bigislandtraveler.com

The 2014 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc Oakville, Napa Valley ($40/bottle; robertmondaviwinery.com) features glorious flavors that glide across the palate with hints of lemon verbena and lime blossoms set against a slate of wet stone which creates a depth against the delicate flavors. The innate herbaciousness of the Sauvignon Blanc grape lends itself to a beautiful pairing with other green foods such as asparagus or herbs, making this an ideal pairing with dishes such as prosciutto-wrapped asparagus or, as classically enjoyed in France, with Crottin de Chavignol (goat cheese from Chavignol) served with a loaf of baguette bread. This cheese is produced from raw milk of alpine goats and is often coated with minced herbs before being served. And for those meals that call for a special red, turning to a bottle of Chinon is an unexpected way to introduce friends and family to a delicious wine known as one of the world’s greatest values. Chinon wines come from vineyards near the town of Touraine in the Central Loire Valley. The red wines of Chinon are predominately made of Cabernet Franc with up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon allowed in the blend. Known to be lighter than Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc brings an exciting pepperiness to the palate and intoxicatingly seductive aromatics. The 2012 Charles Joguet “Les Petit Roches” Chinon ($19.99/ bottle; klwines.com) features an above-average acidity which creates the backbone around which flavors of sun-ripened raspberries and blueberries are entwined. The gravel soils of this vineyard add a hint of masculinity to the wine that balances the ripe, fruit forwardness of the attack, creating an enjoyable wine from start to finish. Commonly paired with braised meats and mushroom dishes, Chinon also makes for an astonishing pairing with Mexican cuisine. The deep fruit profile complements hearty sauces and meat dishes while the greener, pepperlike elements of Cabernet Franc couples nicely with any cilantro or herbs in the Mexican food. Whether gathering with friends to enjoy a casual meal or setting out with your special someone to enjoy a beach picnic, this is the best time of year to uncork a bottle of delectable wine to effortlessly enjoy in the beautiful spring weather. 77

GET OVER IT HANGOVER REMEDIES JUST IN CASE WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Doing a little day drinking, sipping on delightful tropical libations (with or without the festive paper umbrella) poolside or with your toes in the sand is an enjoyable part of a Hawaiian vacation. What’s better than ordering a cold one to go with your delicious lunch and ocean view—especially when your coworkers are chained to their desks with a soggy salad? No wonder it’s easy to indulge and go overboard—after all, you are on vacation. If you are the “work hard, play harder” type, you may have experienced a hangover once in a while. If you find you have overplayed, don’t draw the curtains close and hang the “Do not disturb” sign on your door; instead, try some of the simple solutions offered here to conquer your hangover so you aren’t sidelined during your hard-earned retreat.

Water

Pickle Juice

Coconut Water

Pedialyte

Known as the elixir of life, drinking water while you partake in alcoholic beverages can reduce the likelihood or severity of a hangover the next day. Patrick Okubo, Hawaiÿi’s youngest Master Sommelier, suggests pacing yourself while drinking—for every alcoholic beverage you drink (glass of wine, shot, or cocktail), also drink one glass of water. Alcohol is a diuretic and will pull water from all parts of the body— including the brain which contributes to the hangover headache—so by drinking water while you enjoy your adult beverages, you are actively replenishing what water is lost and preemptively fighting your hangover.

When rehydrating the day after drinking, some turn to sports drinks to hydrate, but many endurance athletes actually prefer coconut water for a number of reasons. Local marathon runner, Marcus Asahina, says coconut water is packed with potassium as well as five types of electrolytes that are found in the human body whereas some sports drinks only offer two types of electrolytes. And when dealing with a nauseous stomach, the nuttiness of coconut water and slight viscosity can make coconut water a little more palatable than plain water. bigislandtraveler.com

Many claim pickle juice is the best choice in getting rid of a hangover quick. Science confirms that the acetic acid in the vinegar is an antidiuretic allowing the body to rehydrate by absorbing the salt and electrolytes in the brine. Pickle brine not only can help your hangover, but can also be taken as a preventative action by stocking your body with what it needs before the dehydrating effects of alcohol set in. Picklebacks (a shot of whiskey followed by a shot of pickle juice) have gained in popularity across the nation over the last decade as a hangover remedy. The word is out that the same drink you give to children to recover from a stomach bug also helps adults with nausea, upset stomach and dehydration that occurs from too much drinking. Adults now make up a third of Pedialyte’s market and that number is growing. A bottle of Pedialyte has twice the sodium and five times as much potassium as a bottle of Gatorade of equal size (half the calories, too) to help rehydrate your body quickly.

Coffee and Fruit Juices

When your stomach has settled, a cup of coffee is a great next step when battling a hangover. While your body was metabolizing alcohol the day before, glucose levels dipped resulting in lethargy and fatigue so the caffeine in coffee can help give you an extra boost of energy to start your day. If you choose to skip coffee, a chilled glass of local fruit juice can also elevate sugar levels and give you the kick-start you need. Guava juice is an excellent option as its mild sweetness is great for a sensitive stomach and the high concentration of vitamin C is often found in some IV hangover restoratives. Another great choice is watermelon juice, which is packed with potassium, magnesium, and L-Citrulline, which is a non-essential amino acid known to boost circulation.

Hair of the Dog

While sipping on a cocktail won’t help your hangover disappear, there is a large portion of the population that believes drinking some types of alcohol the day after drinking can reduce the severity of a hangover (see Pickleback above). Some might turn to a Bloody Mary or mimosa over brunch, but local bartenders are known to suggest Fernet-Branca. This bitter herbal liqueur was created in Italy in the 1840s and is a blend of 27 herbs and other secret ingredients. Fernet-Branca is often served after meals in Italy as a digestif and can settle a stomach after large amounts of food and drink, so sipping on some Fernet-Branca the day after drinking might help calm the stomach.

Bananas, Honey, and Saimin

While some swear by a big, greasy meal after indulging in alcohol, others prefer a lighter fare to ease their way back into solid foods. 80

Bananas are not only great for sensitive stomachs, but also loaded with potassium, which is lost due to the diuretic effects of alcohol. Also, nibbling on some toast with locally grown honey is a delicious way to help boost your body’s sugar levels. If you’re ready for your first real meal, many locals turn to saimin, a noodle soup with origins in Hawaiÿi’s plantation era. Saimin noodles are thin wheat egg noodles that originated in China. These noodles are served in a hot dashi broth and garnished with green onions, kamaboko (fish cake), char siu (Chinese marinated pork), shredded pieces of fried egg, and yes, even slices of SPAM. The hot broth not only warms the soul, but also delivers salt, which is lost with water. If you’re looking for a vegetarian option, miso soup will help rehydrate you, replenish lost sodium, and the fermented miso paste, used as the base of this soup, is a probiotic known to aid in digestive issues. Enjoying your vacation means being able to wine and dine at lunch or have an extra Mai Tai at a festive lüÿau. By utilizing some of these suggestions if you find yourself suffering from overindulgence, you can be sure your hangover won’t keep you from enjoying your time in Hawaiÿi. You can also take a walk on the beach and take slow, deep breaths to inhale the negative ions into your bloodstream. The invisible molecules found in abundance by the sea are believed to produce biochemical reactions that increase levels of serotonin to help alleviate stress, boost energy and improve your mood. Better yet, take a refreshing dip in the ocean to feel instantly invigorated. The salty seawater helps to open up the pores to eliminate toxins. Plus, submerging your head in the cool water is completely exhilarating. By taking care of yourself and replenishing your body of what it needs, you’ll be onto your next adventure in no time! Cheers! BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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global FLAVORS THE MELTING POT OF THE PACIFIC WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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TASTE

awaiÿi, the melting pot of the Pacific, is home to people from all corners of the planet. They’ve brought their rich cultural histories and time-honored family recipes to create what’s known as local cuisine. Looking back on Hawaiÿi’s alluring history, we see how local cuisine came to be and why it’s so important to the people of Hawaiÿi. Prior to the 19th century, the major ethnic groups in Hawaiÿi were Native Hawaiians and Europeans. This changed drastically when sugar and pineapple became big business in the islands. With cheap land, high demand for products, and reliable steamship transportation to the mainland, plantations needed to find adequate labor to work the fields. The Hawaiian population was decimated by disease brought by European settlers, and the remaining Hawaiians opted to live off the land by farming and fishing, rather than work on plantations. The first ship of contracted workers from China arrived in 1852, followed by the Japanese in 1868, the Koreans in 1903, and the Filipinos in 1906. Portuguese whaling ships also arrived, and by the late 1800s, Portuguese sailors and fellow immigrants continued to settle in the islands. It’s estimated that nearly 400,000 contracted workers came to Hawaiÿi from 1850 to 1930. Workers were housed in camps separated by ethnic group in efforts to maintain their ethnic identities, but also to hinder their abilities to unionize. Work days began before the sun was up, and their backbreaking work under the hot Hawaiian sun was grueling to say the least. Lunchtime provided the workers with something to look forward to and it was also a time the different ethnic groups mingled. Sitting in the shade of a tree, the workers opened their lunch containers and while enjoying their meal, they would also exchange food with one another. This generous act of sharing precious food helped them to appreciate food from the other cultures and also laid the foundation for the local cuisine enjoyed in Hawaiÿi today.

Chinese Buns

Brought to Hawaiÿi by Chinese immigrants, the first manapua was reminiscent of char siu bao or barbequed pork-filled rolls. The

yeast dough was filled with a savory pork filling and rolled into a ball. Once steamed or baked, the roll became a warm lunch on the plantation. The name comes from the Hawaiian name mea ‘ono puaÿa meaning “delicious pork thing.” Manapuas are still popular to this day and can be found everywhere from impressive resort restaurants to grab-and-go shops like 7-Eleven. While char siu pork is still a popular flavor, new fillings include curry, sweet potato, and even pizza.

Japanese Lunch Box

The bento dates back to the late Kamakura Period (11851333) in Japan when people on hunting trips or long journeys would take cooked and dried rice called hoshi-ii stored in small bags with them as takeaway meals. It wasn’t until the AzuchiMomoyama Period (1568-1600) that we see bentos of lacquered boxes similar to the bentos of today. When Japanese immigrants came to Hawaiÿi to work on the sugar and pineapple plantations, they brought with them the tradition of packing single-portion lunches so they could eat quickly and not have to return home to cook a meal. Stackable aluminum tins called kau kau tins (kau kau means food or let’s eat in Hawaiian Pidgin) were carried by plantation workers. The bottom layer usually held rice and some pickled vegetable. The top layer usually held the entrée, which might have been leftovers, canned meats, or scrambled eggs. After the end of the plantations, lunch wagons began serving meals on paper plates, the predecessor of the island favorite “plate lunch.”

Korean Superfood

Visit any Korean restaurant and you will find their beloved national dish, kimchi (or kimchee). Originally, kimchi was a mixture of cabbage and salt that was fermented in underground jars as a way to store vegetables for the cold winter months around the 7th century—basically, pickling the vegetable for future consumption. The red chili pepper, one of the main ingredients for any type of kimchi, wasn’t introduced until early 17th century by the Japanese after their invasion in 1592. On the plantations, families made batches of kimchi to eat BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

with nearly every meal, either as an accompaniment for rice, or cooked into dishes such as porridges, stews, soups or savory pancakes. Today, kimchi is offered as a side dish at restaurants across Hawaiÿi, and can be found in every major grocery store and flavors everything from ramen noodles to different types of poke (cubed fish). With well over 100 varieties to choose from, there is a kimchi style for every palate, from napa cabbage and radish to scallions and cucumbers. Kimchi has also been dubbed a superfood for its health benefits and has become a top food trend of late.

Flavor of the Philippines

Adobo, the unofficial dish of the Philippines, was created out of the need to keep meats fresher longer. Filipinos would marinate meat in a mixture of vinegar and salt, braise the meat, and then simmer it in the sauce. It wasn’t until the Chinese traders introduced soy sauce to the Philippines that the more modern marinade of vinegar, garlic, and soy sauce emerged. Adobo is the Spanish word for “marinade” or “seasoning,” and it’s a flavor that pairs well on meat, pork, and even in fish dishes. Today adobo dishes are found at any Filipino restaurant, but it’s also a flavor that many chefs experiment with to create interesting fusion dishes.

Portuguese Donuts

The first Portuguese immigrants arrived in Hawaiÿi during the 19th century from the Azores and Madeira. The initial Portuguese whaling ships brought a few hundred sailors; later in the same year, about 3,300 more plantation workers were brought to Hawaiÿi. Around 1887, there was an estimated 10,000 Portuguese in Hawaiÿi bringing not only their food, but also their Roman Catholic religious traditions. One community tradition for the Portuguese was using all the butter and sugar before Lent by making malasadas. Malasadas, from the Portuguese word mal-assada meaning “under-cooked,” are deep-fried, hole-less donuts rolled in granulated cane sugar with slightly crispy exteriors and light, fluffy interiors. Popular preLent celebrations of Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday, and Carnival occurred all over the world, but in Hawaiÿi this celebration was known as Malasada Day during the 19th century. Today, the traditional malasada rolled in sugar is still popular, but there are other delicious versions filled with custard, chocolate, and even haupia. While the Hawaiian Islands are far removed from other civilizations, the cuisine is no less global. Take a delicious journey through history, and savor all the delicious diversity the Aloha State has to offer. bigislandtraveler.com

TREES IN BLOOM THE TOWERING BOUQUETS OF HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I WORDS COCO ZICKOS

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The Big Island has plenty of black lava, but it also has plenty of vibrant flowers like cascading waterfalls of electric color. Vivid pops of red, purple, pink, yellow and orange dance before your eyes among the gently swaying branches of the blossoming trees around the island. Use this guide to help discover the names of the species you will likely come across while on your tropical vacation and be prepared for a spectacular visual treat.

Plumeria (Plumeria rubra) Most of the flowering trees you encounter in Hawaiÿi are not endemic to the islands and the majority of flowering trees, like the plumeria, were imported for aesthetic purposes. Also known as frangipani or, melia in Hawaiian, the flowers are classically beautiful with five-parted petals that emit an intoxicating fragrance. They are the most popular flower to create lei with and are typically white (Plumeria obtusa) or yellow (Plumeria acuminata), but sometimes can be found as pink or red. Named after a 17th century French botanist, Charles Plumier, these trees are native to Central and South America as well as the Caribbean and were brought to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. The flowers bloom in spring and flourish during summer. Pua kenikeni (Fagraea berteriana) A delightful scent emits from the flowers of this tree that is so strong you might smell their sweetness before you see them. The name translates to 10-cent flower—pua (flower) and kenikeni (a dime)— which was the cost of each blossom in the 1930s when the tree first arrived in Hawai‘i. This “Perfume Flower Tree” is native to the South Pacific and is usually shorter in height. The trumpet-shaped flowers 87

begin as white blossoms that turn orange over time and become even more fragrant. For obvious reasons, the blossoms are some of the most sought-after for lei- making and can grow year-round.

Rainbow Shower Tree (Cassia fistula x javanica) Honolulu’s official tree is the rainbow shower tree as declared so by Mayor Neil Blaisdell in 1965. The attractive, delicate blossoms contain mixtures of pink, red, white and yellow that sprinkle to the ground, delicately showering their surroundings. This particular species is a hybrid created from the golden shower tree (Cassia fistula) from India and the pink shower tree (Cassia javanica) from Indonesia. Jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosifolia)

Brilliant lavender flowers bloom from this tree during the spring. This South American native prefers higher elevations and cooler temperatures and was introduced to the Hawaiian Islands for the purpose of decorating gardens in the 1900s. The trumpet-like flowers are believed to cause great fortune when they fall upon someone’s head. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Royal Poinciana (Delonix regia)

One of the most noticeable trees on the islands is the Royal Poinciana due to its brilliant, fire-engine red blossoms. Though not as prevalent, its orchid-like flowers may also be orange or yellow. Also known as the “flame tree” or “flamboyant tree,” this native Madagascar species was introduced to Hawai‘i for ornamental purposes. The tree is typically shorter in height, but can grow some 50 feet. The flowers start blooming in early spring, peak in the summer, and stick around for several months afterwards.

'Ōhi'a Lehua (Metrosideros polymorpha) ÿÖhiÿa lehua is one of the most commonly seen native trees. They grow to different heights and can be small shrubs or reach some 40 feet. The flowers are wiry red blossoms that can sometimes exist as pink or yellow. The flower, lehua, is considered sacred and legends tie it to the volcano goddess, Pele. This tree is one of the first signs of life after a lava flow and can be seen growing from the cracks of volcanic rock. Recognized as the flower for Hawaiÿi Island (Big Island), these 88

springtime blossoms grow throughout the year and help support the survival of native birds that love to sip on their sweet nectar.

African Tulip (Spathodea campanulata) Large, red ruffled flowers grow from this tree, year-round, and although they are beautiful, this species is highly invasive to the islands. These ornamental trees originated from Africa and can grow extremely tall (up to around 80 feet). However, because they have the ability to spread their seeds far and wide, they have managed to naturalize in the wild forests of Hawai‘i, taking out native species along the way. Monkeypod (Albizia saman)

This large, glorious tree grows delicate, wispy pink and white blooms that flower from April to August. Native of Mexico and Central and South America, monkeypod trees arrived in Hawai‘i in the mid-1800s. The first two seedlings were planted and propagated in Köloa, Kaua‘i and downtown Honolulu. This giant, umbrella-like tree provides the perfect setting for a shaded picnic. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Gold Tree (Roseodendron donnell-smithii)

A non-native species, the gold tree, is often seen lining the streets of Hawai‘i and was introduced to the islands for the same reasons as most others—for ornamental purposes. The large trees, also known as primavera (season of spring), have bell-shaped yellow blossoms that replace the leaves every year. Blooms are sporadic and can start as early as late winter. This tree is native to Central and South America and grows rapidly; therefore, the wood is often used for construction in other parts of the world. It is a relative to the jacaranda and African tulip trees.

Crepe Myrtle (Lagerstroemia speciosa) Fluffy lavender flowers bloom during the summer seasons from this tree in cooler, upland environments where evergreen rainforests exist. Crepe myrtle is an average-sized tree that is a native of Asia and prefers tropical climates like Hawai‘i. Octopus Tree (Schefflera actinophylla)

The unusual-looking tiny blooms of this tree are reddish-pink in color and are attached to dark purple stems that look like the tentacles of an octopus, shooting up in clusters above the tree’s branches. The flowers turn to purple berries that you might see staining the ground as they fall from the trees. They were introduced to the islands in the 1900s and have since become an invasive species. This “umbrella tree” is a native of Australia and New Guinea.

Tree Heliotrope (Tournefortia argentea)

This shoreline tree loves to bloom seaside; therefore, it can withstand hot temperatures, as well as windy and salty conditions. Tree heliotrope is a native of Asia and has teeny-tiny white flowers that form in clusters and bloom throughout the year. Colorful beauty is found in abundance on the Big Island. Stop to appreciate every color found in nature’s palette, from the stunning flowers and blooming trees to the shades of blues in the sea and greens in the forests—each is sure to brighten your day.

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ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 90

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

EXPLORE OUR KONA AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Soar directly to the Kilauea Volcanic System to view the current activity, which may include cinder cones and spectacular fiery lava lakes. View the Lava Tree Forest and the waterfalls among the Wailuku River and Hilo Bay. A family-owned company, Safari Helicopters was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Navel Reserve and one of Hawai‘i’s most experienced pilots. Preston has, over the years, built his company and reputation on the sound principles of safety, professionalism and innovation-always striving to offer the latest in state-of-the-art equipment to assure passengers of an unsurpassable and unforgettable helicopter “safari.” Preston wants Safari passengers to fully enjoy their adventure, but he considers safety of the utmost importance. He holds to the axiom “there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots,” and he requires that all his Safari pilots adhere to the same high standards of professionalism that he personally carried out over the years. Visit online at safarihelicopters.com for a great discount or call (800) 326-3356.

Peer into the deep and discover Hawaii’s marine mysteries in a Coast Guard approved submarine that dives over 100 feet below the ocean's surface.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com. bigislandtraveler.com

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MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 91

ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 92

the week (Reg. $26). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the

tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures

Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!

property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

Book your adventure today!

(808) 885-7883

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. bigislandtraveler.com

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty. 94

Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY (OPPOSITE); KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

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VOLCANO ON WHEELS A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE OF KÄªLAUEA WORDS BROOKE REHMANN IMAGES ERIC FANDRICK

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XX If you have to be known for something, it might as well be something spectacular. One of our island’s most unique and storied features is our resident active volcano, Kïlauea, home of the fire goddess Pele and her thirtythree year long continuous lava flow. It’s one of the most covered and talked about settings on our island, and for good reason. Few other places on Earth are fortunate to have access to such a dynamic, beautiful, and awe-inspiring place as this volcano. Located within the Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park, images of the lava flow oozing into the ocean or churning inside the crater of Halemaÿumaÿu have become ubiquitous, sprayed across the local evening news and across our social media newsfeeds. But for one park volunteer, the vistas and access to this rugged landscape so many of us take for granted has framed a different viewpoint for his outlook on life. For Eric Fandrick, his approach to making the park more accessible to those of all abilities, all the while showcasing the beauty of this park with his photographs comes from his seated perspective. After a car accident years ago left him paralyzed from the waist down, Eric has worked hard to reframe his outlook on life. Not only because his perspective literally comes from four feet above the ground, but because he strives to prove that life can be meaningful and exciting, regardless of your physical abilities. I first came across Eric’s work on Instagram, captivated by his beautiful images of life on the striking southeast coast of the island. His photos capture the wildlife and wild scenery that makes this island so special, and his proximity to the national park has literally lit up his Instagram feed with stunning images of Madame Pele at work. His images provide few clues to the limited access to the beauty of this island — instead, when you look at his work, you can sense that this is a person not confined by the limits placed on him from outside forces. There are beaches, and mountains, and horses, nënë (Hawaiian goose), honu (green sea turtles), geckos, summits of near 14,000-ft volcanoes, unfurling ferns, and that magical volcano, Kïlauea, lighting up the night sky. bigislandtraveler.com

After moving to the Big Island nearly two years ago with plans to start a travel company for others with limited mobility, Eric quickly realized how difficult this idea was to get into action. “The Big Island is like the mainland [in terms of accessibility] thirty years ago. I was hoping to make a difference and open doors for people,” he said. Soon after arriving, he found a job at the national park where he provides information to guests about the volcano, but also information about the accessibility of the park for those who may not be able to navigate the off beaten paths so easily. He speaks enthusiastically about his favorite trails, and warmly shares stories about his favorite storytellers and park rangers. Because of the park’s ever-changing rugged landscape, there will be parts that simply won’t be accessible to those with limited mobility. But that hasn’t stopped Eric from finding the parts that are accessible and wheelchair “manageable” for those who want to get out there and explore. He uses the term “manageable” for the trails that require some assistance in terms of navigating the terrain and are, perhaps, a little more adventurous. Still, there are almost 10 miles of accessible, ADA-compliant trails for those who want to stay on a more well beaten path, including near the caldera lookout at the Jaggar Museum and Devastation Trail. Eric’s passion for exploration and the national parks started when he was younger, visiting many parks with his family. Growing up in rural Michigan, he says, made the transition to one of the more remote parts of our state easier. “I’m used to dirt roads, but I’m not used to having to drive an hour just to go to the supermarket!” he says. Eric also considers himself a lifelong learner, and sensitive to the Hawaiian culture. On his first visit to the caldera, he could sense the importance this place had for the Hawaiian people, and he tries to share that with the visitors he talks to. 98

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One of his most important jobs, though, is to open other people’s eyes to people in wheelchairs. “I get the chance to be a visible reference,” he says. His approachable and open nature is helpful, too, as guests are able to come up to him and ask him about the park. He also has a great sense of humor, telling me about how he makes the occasional joke about rolling into the caldera. And yet, it’s not just his work in the park that helps refine a different perspective of this island, but also his photography that provides a unique lens onto this beautiful landscape. While he does not sell his photographs, he uses photography to help shine a light on otherwise overlooked and obscure angles. When I met him at the Jaggar Museum, he was taking pictures of a fern near the museum’s entrance, and not the awe-inspiring crater in front of him. Coupled with his work at the national park and his photography, Eric is helping to shed a light on different ways of seeing things. “That’s what keeps me here and interested, to show people parts of the island they didn’t think they could see.” As he strives to provide both those with and without disabilities a unique perspective of our island, you can’t help but appreciate the view. Eric’s photography can be seen on his Instagram account, @seated_perspectives. To explore some of Eric’s favorite accessible trails, he recommends Earthquake Trail, Devastation Trail, the overlook at the Jaggar Museum, as well as the drive along Chain of Craters Road. He hosts videos and writes on travel websites from time to time about bringing awareness of the park’s accessibility to those who want to travel to the Big Island, but don’t know where to start. For more information about accessibility at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, visit http://www.wheelchairtraveling. com/hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-accessibility-guide. And to learn more about the park, visit https://www.nps.gov/havo. bigislandtraveler.com

reflecting on

SUNSHINE WORDS ANDREW WALSH

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ight minutes and 20 seconds. The amount of time a photon of sunlight races through the vast expanse of space before it bombards our atmosphere. The Greek philosopher Anaxagoras first theorized the sun as a flaming ball of molten “something or other” much larger than the small disc we see in the sky (he was of course imprisoned by more enlightened authorities for his teachings). He wasn’t far off though, sunlight is actually the result of hydrogen atoms smashing together to produce helium inside a 4.5-billion-year-old spherical ball of plasma over 91 to 95 million miles away at the center of our solar system. (Earth orbits the Sun in an elliptical pattern so the distance varies. The average distance between the Earth and the Sun is 92.96 million miles.) From space, sunlight appears white in color. As it collides with our atmosphere the direct solar sunbeams are scattered. This is an important step for life—otherwise, we would all boil. This scattering of sunlight gives us the blue sky we perceive, as the atmosphere scatters short-wavelength visible light more intensely than longer wavelengths. Its intensity (solar radiation) is also reduced by about one third and the majority of the solar IR and UV radiation is filtered out. So on the surface living organisms absorb the small band of visible light and some degree of UV and IR light. The sun actually emits a broad range of wavelengths, from high-energy X-rays and ultraviolet radiation, through visible light, on down the spectrum to the lower energy infrared and radio waves. In fact, tiny neutrinos from the sun are passing through the gaps between the atoms in your body as you read

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this, but that is getting too far down the nerd rabbit hole. What matters is that without this complicated procession of photons and electromagnetic waves bouncing off one another, life could not exist. Most life on Earth begins with the transformation of the Sun’s energetic rays into chemical energy through photosynthesis. That breath you just quickly inhaled—from hearing these astounding facts—began as sunlight. A nameless plankton in a far off ocean or some forgotten forest tree a thousand miles away inundates your lungs over and over with your most precious resource—the breath of life. But the sun’s warmth comes with a cold hubris. Challenging the gods and the larger forces at work in the universe can be deadly humbling. As when Icarus flew too close to the sun, its intensity has the power to give and take life. Once exposed to the heavenly glare, our skin will produce Vitamin D from UVB rays. Exposing skin for about half the time it takes to turn pink is enough to make this essential vitamin (about 10 minutes for light skinned, 15-20 minutes for midranged tones or tanned skin, and up to an hour for darker skin). But keep your skin exposed past these times and the sunlight can take life instead of give it. The intense radiation in the UV spectrum begins to damage skin cells at the cellular level, causing mutations in the DNA. As the body repairs damaged DNA, it occasionally inserts the wrong bases. This improperly repaired DNA can disrupt cellular processes and eventually cause mutations and cancer. To avoid this we apply a greasy barrier between our skin and the sun—sunscreen. Many peer-reviewed 101

studies have shown that applying sunscreen (generally SPF 30 or above) reduces your chance of developing skin cancer. The American Academy of Dermatology concurs. However, you can find a wealth of anecdotal evidence pointing to the dangerous effects to human health from chemicals in sunscreen, although few scientific studies exist to back these claims. But in recent years, an indirect yet urgent threat to humankind has paradoxically emerged from sunscreen usage. Remember those far off creatures that fill your lungs with air? Well, the marine habitats where many of them are found—like coral reefs—are feeling the burn of sunscreen. Corals are the base of marine ecosystems in the tropics. Most of the marine life we see in the waters around Hawaiÿi would cease to exist without the watery nooks and biological bonanza that coral reefs provide. Corals are one of the longest-lived organisms on Earth, some are known to be up to 4,000 years old (individuals, not the species). The largest living organism on Earth is thought to be the Great Barrier Reef. Coral reefs provide ecosystem services to the economy and livelihoods of our societies valued at US $30 billion a year. They protect shorelines from the devastating effects of erosion and storm damage. And millions of people rely directly upon them for food, jobs, tourism, recreation, and even emerging pharmaceuticals for cancer, arthritis, asthma, ulcers, human bacterial infections, heart disease, and viruses. Yet corals are incredibly sensitive creatures. Corals are often mistaken for hard rocky surfaces since most of their structure is just that, hard limestone. However, the outer layer of the reef, that colorful rock your foot is often standing upon, is a living coral organism composed of thousands of tiny coral polyps. This thin outside layer of interconnected little animals (tiny stationary jellyfish called coral polyps) are composed of tissues that are home to colorful photosynthetic zooxanthellae (microscopic plants that turn sunlight into food) and grow on top of a calcium carbonate exoskeleton (the hard underneath 102

of the reef). Each step can kill these unassuming little overachievers. However, the sunscreen that washes off your body can be even more damaging. Most popular sunscreens contain a chemical called oxybenzone that is toxic to corals. Imagine a beautiful coral reef nestled in a watery lagoon equivalent in volume to roughly six Olympic-size swimming pools. One small drop of oxybenzone from sunscreen is enough to damage and potentially kill the corals in this lagoon. One drop! It is common knowledge in the science community that corals are very sensitive to environmental conditions. When the waters become too hot, too cold, murky from sediments, too polluted, or too acidic from the tons of carbon absorbed into the oceans (acidification), corals eject their symbiotic zooxanthellae and eventually die. The tiny zooxanthellae plants provide the coral polyps with food, so once they leave, it’s game over. All that remains is the hard white structure of the reef where the little polyps once lived, hence the name “coral bleaching.” In the most recent bleaching event in Hawaiÿi, the Division of Aquatic Resources (DAR) reported that as much as 50 percent of West Hawaiÿi’s corals bleached and died. This is attributed to elevated ocean temperatures, but adding oxybenzone from sunscreen to the already fragile environment is making the situation much worse. Since the 1980s, oxybenzone has been widely used and is found in 3,500 sunscreen products worldwide on the market today—the vast majority. Seawater testing in Hawaiÿi and the Caribbean has shown concentrations of this coral-killing chemical 12 times higher than in “normal” seawater. And it is estimated that 6,000 to 14,000 tons of sunscreen enters coral reef ecosystems annually. Largely because intrepid ocean lovers lather up and head straight for these fun factories of fish, turtles, and undiscovered adventures. When corals come in contact with oxybenzone it can damage their DNA, act as an endocrine disruptor, deform juvenile corals, and induce coral bleaching, often at temperatures several degrees cooler than what corals could normally BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

endure. Keep in mind that corals are already fending off a gauntlet of deadly stressors from those ocean and reef lovers’ lifestyle choices. Since the onslaught of anthropogenic (human-originated) climate change, ocean acidification, and urban/agricultural pollution and sedimentation, coral reefs have declined across the globe at staggering rates. The situation is so dire that if current trends continue, we could be looking at the extinction of world corals by just after mid-century (2050). These are species that have existed for 240 million years, many of which today are 5,000 to 10,000-year-old continuously growing structures, with some individuals still alive at the ripe old age of 4,000 years. And although they occupy less than one percent of the marine environment, they are home to 25-35% of all marine species. And in barely a century, we may have wiped them from the known universe. So what can we do right now? Efforts are underway to ban the sale of oxybenzone containing sunscreens throughout the state of Hawaiÿi during the state’s next legislative session. Senator Will Espero, representing Hawaiÿi’s 19th District on Oÿahu, is leading the legislative charge based on current scientific recommendations. Recently, the DAR publicly recommended a transition to sunscreens that don’t contain oxybenzone at the IUCN World Conservation Congress, held on Oÿahu. But travelers come from all over the world and no law will exist for owning sunscreen with oxybenzone, much less policing the use of it. Therefore, it’s up to everyone to spread the word and encourage the use of non-oxybenzone creams throughout our Hawaiian ÿohana (family) and around the world. Considering the riches that coral reefs endow people, it’s worth understanding the risks we pose to them, particularly when small changes in our behaviors, which may benefit our direct health anyway, could significantly reduce the incredible amount of stress they already endure. It’s hard to imagine an empty, colorless ocean where once underwater cities of life flourished. It’s even worse to imagine an ocean and planet devastated by the loss of creatures and habitats bigislandtraveler.com

which provide us food, money, and the very breath we need to live. Although changing sunscreens will not solve every problem, the idea is to develop a mindset of behaviors that eventually will benefit and protect us all. Fortunately, there are plenty of choices we can make to coexist on this starlit marble that will benefit our health and the world we live upon. We just need to adjust the angle we apply when reflecting upon our sunlight. So much fuss from just a few rays! A single photon can take up to 170,000 years to travel from its birth inside the sun to the surface. It’s taken millions of millennia for life to harness those rays and create the evolutionary theme park we live upon. Let’s reflect this light in a manner worthy of the life it provides. Especially when all we need are some small-time changes like switching to safer sunscreens. It’s been millions of years, but time is no longer on our side, so do hurry. The corals and creatures will thank you with some ÿono (delicious) fish, a spiritual session with the mighty honu (turtle), a lifesaving medical treatment, and even a clean breath of fresh air. Sunscreen Best Practices 1. Check the label (even if it says safe-for-reefs) for oxybenzone, butylparaben, octinoxate, and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, which all damage reefs. 2. Apply sunscreen at least 10-15 minutes before entering the water, so that it absorbs into the skin. 3. Don’t use more than you need. Wearing a rash guard and other sun protective clothing can reduce your sunscreen need by up to 90%. 4. Avoid spray on sunscreens as the health effects of inhaling them are not well known and they enter the air, land, and in the water. On a personal note, they will upset your Divemaster standing downwind. 5. Be coral-friendly and choose the best sunscreen possible for you and the environment. Check out the top picks from the Environmental Working Group at www.ewg.org/sunscreen. 103

HIT THE BEACH

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SAND + SURF MAUNA KEA BEACH

KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. 105

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106

available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

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swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo.

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

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Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107

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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING (Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and 110

sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222. TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date. KOKUA KAILUA (Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or historickailuavillage.com. SANCTUARY OCEAN COUNT (Jan. 28, Feb. 25, Mar. 25) - Please join the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Foundation to count whales! The community project involves counting the number of whales that can be seen around the islands and recording their behavior. Not only has this proven to be a fun volunteer activity for residents and visitors, but it also helps to provide important population and distribution information on humpback whales in Hawai‘i. If you are interested in participating in the annual Sanctuary Ocean Count Project or want to learn more about volunteering and to register, get details at sanctuaryoceancount.org.

JANUARY WAIMEA OCEAN FILM FESTIVAL (Jan. 2-10) – Guests will surely enjoy awardwinning films, breakfast talks, Q&A filmmaker sessions, art and exhibits focused on an understanding of the ocean. The event will be held at various Waimea and Kohala Coast venues including Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, The Fairmont Orchid and Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. For more information, please visit WaimeaOceanFilm.org or call (808) 854-6095. MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC PGA CHAMPIONS TOUR AT HUALĀLAI (Jan. 17-21) – The PGA TOUR Champions tournament is a competition among all official event champions of the past season and features many golf legends. The golf competition is held on the beautiful Hualälai Golf Course, designed by Jack Nicklaus, while tournament guests enjoy the renowned Four Seasons Resort Hualälai at Historic Kaÿüpülehu. Visit hualalairesort.com. 13TH ANNUAL KONA SURF FILM FESTIVAL PRESENTED BY ALTRES (Jan. 28) - Since 2003 the Kona Surf Film Festival has been an exhibition of Surf films from around the world, a benefactor of the Big Island community and beyond and a grassroots event that has kept the surf cinema stoke alive. Live music, surf movies and good vibes! Contact Chad (8080 936-0089 or visit konasurffilmfestival.org. FEBRUARY WAIMEA CHERRY BLOSSOM HERITAGE FESTIVAL (Feb. 4) - This popular festival held in the community of Waimea in its 24th year celebrates Japanese traditions and culture and includes cherry blossom viewing, music, mochi pounding, tea ceremonies, demonstrations, exhibits, crafts, entertainment, ethnic foods, bonsai, origami, a farmers market and visiting performers and artisans from Japan. Various highlights throughout the town, 9am to 3pm. Look for pink banners identifying multiple sites sprawling throughout the town including Historic Spencer House. From 9am to 3pm. For additional information, contact (808) 961-8706.

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THE 8TH ANNUAL INTERNATIONAL BEACHCOMBING CONFERENCE (Feb. 8-12) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Learn more about what you find on the shore from beachcomb authors, artists, and experts, then shop till you drop on Feb. 11th at HawaiĂżiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1st Sea Glass and Coastal Arts Festival. Audience registration required. Educational tutorials, field trips, art workshops, family-style meals and more. Visit TheBeachcombingConference.com for more information. MARCH KONA BREWERS FESTIVAL (Mar. 11) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Kona Brewers Festival indulges craft beer aficionados with 72 selections of ales and lagers served up with a wide variety of island-style cuisine from 36 HawaiĂżi chefs. Breweries from HawaiĂżi and the mainland US will each offer two types of craft brews, offering something for beer adventurers and connoisseurs alike. Top chefs from some of the Big Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favorite restaurants will offer

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their best food pairings, ranging from fresh fish and smoked meats to tropical sweets against a backdrop of passing paddleboards and canoes at the historic Kamakahonu Bay Beach. Live music and entertainment include the mustsee Trash Fashion Show, a performance that highlights creative fashions made entirely from recycled material. Cost is $75 and includes a commemorative event mug, seven four-ounce brew tasting coupons, unlimited samplings of gourmet cuisine and an afternoon of entertainment. Held at Courtyard King Kamehamehaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kona Beach Hotel. Tickets at konabrewersfestival.com. APRIL LAVAMAN WAIKOLOA TRIATHLON (April 2) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Annual Lavaman Triathlon Festival features an Olympic distance 10K-run, 40K-bike and 1.5K-swim open to individuals and relay teams of all ages and abilities, awards party and beach barbeque. Host hotel is Hilton Waikoloa Village, and events are held

throughout Waikoloa Beach Resort on the Kohala Coast. For registration or more info, visit lavamantriathlon.com. Volunteers are always needed, and spectators are welcome. Call (808) 329-9718. MERRIE MONARCH FESTIVAL (April 16-22) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HawaiĂżiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most venerable hula celebration and competition with weeklong festivities including exhibitions, musical entertainment, arts and crafts fairs and the Miss Aloha Hula Competition, kahiko (ancient) and Ăżauana (modern) hula competitions. Most activities during the festival week are free to the public, however tickets are needed to attend the hula competitions. Edith KanakaĂżole Stadium is the site of the competitions. Call (808) 9359168 or visit merriemonarch.com for more information and complete schedule. All events are subject to change. Check out bigislandtraveler.com for updates and more events.

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