Big Island Traveler by Traveler Media

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

T R AV E L E R

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Culture Trip EXPLORE THE HISTORIC SITES OF NORTH KOHALA

LIFE IN THE TROPICS

COLORFUL CREATURES OF THE REEF

THE HAWAIIAN WAY

LIVING WITH THE ALOHA SPIRIT

A GREAT ESCAPE

HIKE TO THE REMOTE OASIS OF HALAPĒ

SUMMER 2017

LOCAL VIBE island STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW hawaiian lŪ‘au island scents

HAWAII

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Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort

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68 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences

40 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

72 THE HOT SPOT Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar

48 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

74 CULINARY Q&A Chef George Gomes, Jr.

92 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano

76 UNCONVENTIONAL SUMMER WINES Broaden Your Wine List

8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i Style 20 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Big Island 22 WHY DON'T YOU... Add These to Your Itinerary 32 THE HAWAIIAN WAY Defining the Aloha Spirit 36 BREATHING IN PARADISE The Sweet Scent of Hawai‘i 44 CULTURE TRIP Explore the Historic Sites of North Kohala

78 LŪ‘AU A True Hawaiian Celebration 82 GO EXOTIC Skip the Everyday and Opt for Local Tropical Fruit 88 LIFE IN THE TROPICS Colorful Creatures of the Reef 96 THE GREAT ESCAPE Hike the Backcountry to a Pristine Beach at Halapē 100 DO NOT DISTURB A Little Quiet Goes a Long Way for Hawaiian Spinner Dolphins

58 EXTERNAL BEAUTY Pearls are Forever

PHOTO COURTESY: ANDREW WALSH

C ON T EN T S

24 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

CONTENTS

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

CONTRIBUTORS

Kirk Lee Aeder Brooke Rehmann Krystal Kakimoto Andrew Walsh Ekua Impraim Peter A. Thoene Amber Nightingale Karen Anderson Millie Mabelle

COPY EDITOR

Joseph Kwak

myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler-media.com

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Copyright©2017 Traveler Media Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

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ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE aloha

(nvt., nvs.) love, affection, compassion, mercy, sympathy, pity, kindness, sentiment, grace, charity; greeting, salutation, regards; sweetheart, lover, loved one; beloved, loving, kind, compassionate, charitable, lovable; to love, be fond of; to show kindness, mercy, pity, charity, affection; to venerate; to remember with affection; to greet, hail. –Hawaiian Dictionary

loha is a word you hear often here. We say it to greet someone; we say it to say goodbye. But, it’s much more than a simple expression of hello, hey or hi you hear on the mainland. A feeling of warmth, closeness and kindness is attached to aloha. Aloha is used to convey love and affection. Aloha is synonymous with Hawaiÿi—it can’t be separated—Hawaiÿi is aloha. And, the Aloha Spirit is the guiding principle for all those that live here. There are many fantastic perks to living on the Big Island like amazing beaches, year-round gorgeous weather, and fun activities to enjoy the great outdoors such as golf, snorkeling, surfing and hiking; but most would say it’s the genuine niceness and friendliness of everyone you meet that makes living here so special. You don’t see anyone road-raging, instead, most drive very courteous; everyone smiles and appreciates the slower pace taking the time to talk story with one another. Some may think that the Aloha Spirit was a smart marketing strategy created by the state’s tourism to lure more visitors here. In reality, it’s the core of ancient Hawaiians’ values and the foundation of their cultural practices—their way of life. This ideology has survived and thrived over hundreds of years and is the common thread that binds people together from all walks of life (The Hawaiian Way, p. 32). Another important Hawaiian tradition that is still practiced today is the sharing of food in grand celebration. Although the lüÿau (feast) has been modernized with different food offerings and entertainment, there is still much culture to be experienced attending one including 6

local cuisine and storytelling through hula, songs and oli (chant). If you don’t have the opportunity to attend a baby lüÿau or graduation lüÿau at a local’s house, then attending one of the many offered at the resorts is something not to miss (Lüÿau: A True Hawaiian Celebration, p. 78). The rich culture and provocative history found on the Big Island are appealing to visitors just as much as the incomparable attractions, like the ever-present lava flow on Kïlauea, to the heavenly skies seen atop Mauna Kea, and a vibrant reef ecosystem in the crystal clear water (Life in the Tropics, p.88). To completely escape any undesirable noise or to find serenity, it doesn’t get any better than the blue lagoon found at Halapë. This secluded gem is not only beautiful, but you feel like you are the only one left in the world. It takes a lot of effort to get there, but the tranquility that overtakes you is priceless. (The Great Escape, p.94). Whether it is nature’s stunning marvels or the wonderful Aloha Spirit that draws you to the Big Island, you will leave here thinking you have found paradise. Aloha nui loa, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE SALT OF THE EARTH

Highly prized throughout human history, salt has helped not only flavor food, but preserve it long before refrigerators existed. In fact, the term “salary” is rooted in ancient Roman’s paying their soldiers in money as well as, you guessed it, salt. Here in Hawaiÿi, we’re lucky to have access to some of the most flavorful salts on Earth. ÿAlaea sea salt, known for its bright red tint, gets its coloring from the red clay that lines the ponds where the salt is harvested. When the white salt is left over from the ocean, harvesters mix the salt, leaving behind a burnt red color that’s visually striking. Used in many local dishes, including poke and kälua pig, these versatile little crystals lend a unique flavor to any dish. ÿAlaea salt is famous for retaining its flavor in the cooking process, and even having less sodium per serving than table salt. Next time you’re dining out, or looking to cook in, be sure to sprinkle a little extra flavor of aloha on your dish.

LOCAL LINGO

On your travels around the island, you may have seen t-shirts, bumper stickers, or friends utter the phrase, “Eddie would go.” But who is Eddie, and where is he going? Eddie, or Edward Aikau, is a local legend, known for his surfing prowess and death defying water rescues as a lifeguard at Waimea Bay on Oÿahu’s North Shore, home to some of the largest surf on Earth. Under his and his brother Clyde’s watch as lifeguards, not a single person lost their life. When the Höküleÿa, a traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe that uses only ancient seafaring techniques and no modern equipment, was about to embark on its second voyage in 1978, Eddie and his crew set out into the open ocean. Sadly, the vessel capsized due to high winds and large swells right at the edge of the Hawaiian Islands. With no way to radio for help, Eddie bravely set off on surfboard, never to be seen again. The entire crew was later rescued, all except for Eddie whose bravery and selflessness is lovingly remembered to this day. In his honor, a big wave surf contest on Oÿahu’s North Shore, simply called “The Eddie,” pays homage to the man who risked his life day in, day out to help others. The phrase “Eddie would go” has come to represent putting yourself out there when no one else will, and selflessly helping out your fellow man. Eddie would go—would you?

RED PENCIL

Hawaiÿi’s waters are known for their colorful fish, exotic coral, and even large mammals. One of the more visually striking creatures is the red pencil urchin, also known as ÿina ÿula in Hawaiian, with long, solid bright red spines protruding out of its round body. Looking almost like a pincushion for crayons, these peaceful pointy creatures typically reside in the crevices of offshore reefs, emerging at night to feed on a diet of mostly algae. Though these urchins aren’t poisonous, do not touch as you can cause serious damage to the creature. It’s hard to resist the appeal of such an intriguing, vibrant marine animal, but snorkelers and scuba divers are asked to admire with their eyes, not with their hands. 8

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

HAWAIIAN BEAUTY Pick a color, any color. Well, maybe not any color, but if you’re a fan of pinks, yellows, oranges, whites, reds, and some variations in-between, you’re in luck. The beautiful hibiscus flower (aloalo in Hawaiian), ubiquitous around the Hawaiian Islands, is a striking symbol of tropical living. It’s stunning, colorful pedals and long stamen are perfect for admiring all across the island, or behind the ear for the perfect accessory to any island-inspired attire. Not only known for its beauty, hibiscus has been used across cultures and over generations for a variety of purposes. Parts of the flower can also be used to make hibiscus tea, known for its tart, sour taste. Hibiscus also has been said to have medicinal properties, such as reducing high blood pressure and also helping to heal wounds. This versatile flower isn’t just easy on the eyes, but you’ll be forgiven if you can’t help but admire it for its beauty. 10

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LOCAL VIBE

STANDING GUARD Visitors to Puÿuhonua O Hönaunau National Historical Park never forget their first sighting of several dramatic looking kiÿi standing guard around the bay and heiau, ancient temple. Kiÿi, or statues carved to resemble the human form, are found around the island at various locations, though perhaps most famously at the Place of Refuge. Around Polynesia, such as New Zealand/Aotearoa, French Polynesia, and beyond, these statues are more commonly known as tikis. These foreboding statues were solicited by the ancient priests and aliÿi, or royalty, to keep watch and enforce kapu, or the system of rules that governed ancient Hawaiian life, and to guard the sacredness of the land. After seeing these towering kiÿi in real life, it’s hard to deny their innate sense of power.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

SPIRITUAL GUIDE

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRAKAEDERPHOTO.COM

It’s likely that when you think of tropical birds found in Hawaiÿi, owls are not some of the first mental images that you conjure up. But the pueo, or Hawaiÿi’s own short-eared owl, makes its home across the Hawaiian Islands, including here on the Big Island. Unlike other owls, the pueo is active during the daytime, and can be found from sea level to much higher elevations, and seem to prefer open grassland. With dark brown and white feathers, and large yellow eyes, these beautiful birds differ from the more frequently seen barn owl. Found prominently, though not exclusively, near Saddle Road that connects the east and west sides of the island, these beautiful birds of prey are sacred creatures to Hawaiians. Endemic to Hawaiÿi, the pueo is thought to have arrived around the same time as the ancient Polynesians or even before, and is said to be the manifestation of ÿaumäkua, or ancestral guardians, to many families past and present. Pueo appears in many Hawaiian legends and myths and is still revered with the utmost respect and love. Representing skill in battle, pueo are seen as protectors or guides, as well as messengers of warning, and bringers of good luck. Sadly, their populations have been on the decline, making sighting of these beautiful birds rare, so be sure to keep your eyes out for them in your travels. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

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Favorite beach: Kaunaÿoa (Mauna Kea) Beach. With soft white sand, colorful coral reefs to snorkel, and a sandy bottom shorebreak ideal for bodysurfing, Mauna Kea Beach has something for everyone. Favorite food: Laulima Food Patch in Kona because it’s fast, casual, and fresh Pacific-inspired cuisine. I swing in early for my favorite breakfast burrito on the island, or I create a custom salad bowl with local and organic ingredients for lunch. Favorite snorkel spot: Two Step at Hönaunau Bay for its well-developed coral reefs, 100’ visibility, and regular visits from spinner dolphins. Favorite drive: Kohala Mountain Road. This fun and short drive encompassing the north end of the Big Island journeys around the lush rolling hills of Kohala Volcano. Start in Waimea town, home of the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy), and take route to historic Häwï, birthplace of the great King Kamehameha. Along the way you’ll find scenic overlooks, rainforests and native birds as you make your way back along the ocean route to Kawaihae Village. Favorite hike: Pololü Valley. Just a 30-minute hike down to the tropical valley floor, and you’ll feel like your miles away from civilization. Take some snacks and drinks for a picnic on the black sand beach.

my local faves

Favorite custom/tradition: Baby lüÿau. In Polynesian and Hawaiian culture, the first birthday is considered a major milestone. After days of preparing traditional delicacies, friends and family gather for a lüÿau feast. When the day ends, you’re left with a full belly and the overwhelming feeling of support from your community. Favorite hangout: Kohanaiki Beach Park. Pack a cooler, park beachfront, drop your tailgate, and enjoy pau hana (relaxation after work) with your toes in the sand. Favorite Hawaiian band/CD: Kaÿau Crater Boys. A little old school, but this Hawaiian contemporary group paved the way for many of the popular musicians in Hawaiÿi today. Their island music featuring ÿukulele and beautiful vocals make for perfect songs on a beach day. Favorite place to take your guests: Halemaÿumaÿu Crater. Viewed from Jaggar Museum at the Kïlauea Overlook, Halemaÿumaÿu Crater and the massive eruptive lava lake inside is my favorite place to gaze upon the power of Madame Pele (Fire Goddess). In recent years, it has become quite common to see first hand the spattering of lava at the craters edge.

Favorite place to take in the history: Pu‘uhonua o Hönaunau National Historical Park. Managed by the National Park Service, Pu‘uhonua o Hönaunau is the most significant and well-preserved traditional Hawaiian site on the Big Island. You’ll find archeological sites, native plants, fishponds, and regular displays of ancient Hawaiian practices. The park also has great facilities for a BBQ beach picnic Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…aloha ÿäina (love of the land). Hawaiÿi Island is among the most naturally diverse, and unique places on earth. If you love spending your time outdoors, I can’t think of a better place to call home. If you were a visitor, you would want to know…an obvious, but still worthy reminder is to embrace, understand and respect the local culture and religious practices. Exploring the Big Island requires lots of driving. Make well-planned routes to avoid unnecessary backtracking and long drives. Sunscreen: Hawaiÿi is among the highest UV Index valued areas in the United States. Even on a cloudy day you can get sunburned. If you’re heading out to explore the island, bring a few warm clothes with you. Most visitors are surprised to find many of our most popular and scenic attractions are in colder than expected climates. 20

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: MIKE SESSIONS

Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: Summit of Mauna Kea. Standing atop the highest point in the Pacific Ocean, witnessing a sunset from the summit of Mauna Kea is possibly the most dramatic and stimulating scenery in all of Hawaiÿi.

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LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... SNORKEL, DINE & SAIL IN LUXURY. Take a cruise to the best reef spots and share your day with green sea turtles, dolphins, and vibrant tropical fish. With necessary equipment, nourishment and even a fun slide provided for your enjoyment, all you have to do is relax, and relish your day out on the resplendent Pacific Ocean. Kohala Coast: Mauna Lani Sea Adventures (808) 885-7883. Kona Coast: Body Glove Cruises (888) 980-7513 or Fair Wind (808) 345-6213.

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EXPLORE THE ISLAND. Explore the Big Island in complete comfort plus discover fascinating, local knowledge. Take a guided tour to hidden waterfalls, verdant rainforests and valleys, HawaiĂżi Volcanoes National Park and Mauna Kea Summit. You will really appreciate more of what you see and get a true sense of place by learning about the rich history and unique flora and fauna that makes the Big Island so special. Call Hawaii Forest & Trail (808) 331-3635 or Kilauea Summit Adventures/Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (808) 322-2366.

MOONWALK. Of course, Hawaiian sunsets are spectacular with the vivid hues of intersecting pinks, purples, oranges and reds that paint the already beautiful scenery, but take a stroll along the beach at night with the moon and countless stars and you will think you are in heavenly dream. The colors are soft with a blue-silver glow, while the sand feels cool beneath your feet and the sound of the surf is melodic with the stillness of the island.

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP RT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM; (BOTTOM LT) ANDREW WALSH

If you love beer, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in luck as the Big Island is home to some excellent locally crafted beers as well as several restaurant/bars with a stellar selection. Try Big Island Brewhaus in Kamuela for popular and limited release local beers (808) 887-1717, Kona Brewing Company offers local beers and tours daily (808) 334-2739, and Tropics Ale House in Waikoloa Beach Resort, which has over 20 beers on tap including local, seasonal and unique beers of the world (808) 886-4287.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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Queens MarketPlace Queens’ COMING SOON maa Waikoloa Luxury Cinema DINING Charley’s Thai Cuisine sine n ne Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant estaa rantt Romano’s Macaronii Grill Gril G Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi ushi s BBar FASHION Blue Ginger Family Cookies Clothing Co. Crocs Kona Surf N’ Sandals Local Motion Mahina Malibu Shirts PacSun Persimmon Quiksilver Reyn’s Volcom FOOD OUTLETS Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches & Salads GROCERY Island Gourmet Markets JEWELRY & ART Genesis Galleries Island Pearls Lava Light Galleries SERVICES Century 21 All Islands Hawaii Haw Life Real Estate Brokers Hearts H ts & Stars Salon & Day Spa Hilton Vacations Club Hil n Grand G Luxury by Harold Clarke uxury xury ry Big B g Island Is Waikoloa W ikolo Waik Wa kol Dental Clinic Waikoloa Waiko Realty W SPECIALTY SPEC P L & GIFTS Bike ’n Sports B Works Work Beach W B Blue Bluue Wilderness ilderness ern Dive Adventures Claire’s Clai Cla C Hawaiian waiian ann Quilt Qu Collection Q Hawaiian & Guitar H waiian aii Ukulele Uku Lids Li Ocean Oc an Sports Pacific Pacifi Nature PPa SoHa SoH Living So Sunglass Hut Su

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ALOHA

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak.

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Our Bees Need to Fly 48,000 Miles to Produce One Pound of Raw Organic Hawaiian Honey. No matter how many miles you’ve flown to reach the Big Island, you’ll never forget your visit to Big Island Bees. Experience one of the world’s leading honey farms. Visit an open beehive where you’ll have a box seat on beekeeping, in a safe and secure screened area. Take a tour of our museum. Discover the history of beekeeping and glimpse into the hidden world of bees. Enjoy free samples of the raw,

organic single-floral honeys that are enjoyed around the world. When you come visit us here in Captain Cook, make a day of it. Snorkel at Two Step. Explore nearby Kealakekua Bay, the ancient Hiki’au Heiau Temple, and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Come spend some time with us in this hidden corner of Hawaii. 120 million of our bees look forward to seeing you.

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Hawai‘ i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.”

Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Discover Hawaii with Safari Helicopters The People'sChoice Since 1987 Naval Reserves as a Commander (0-5). Preston Myers, owner/pilot of Safari Helicopters, has radically changed the helicopter industry throughout the After active duty with the US Navy, Myers returned to State of Hawaii. Safari was the first company in the State Southeast Asia as a civilian and flew for the infamous of Hawaii to fly air tours in the comfort of an “Air America” flying throughout Thailand, Laos, air-conditioned ASTAR 350 B aircraft and the first to offer Cambodia, and South Vietnam on quasi-military secret a two-way communication system between passengers and missions. He continued his adventures by relocating pilot. They were also the first company to install and operate to Singapore, the international trading capital of the an FAA approved multiple video camera system with high world. He flew on oil exploration projects throughout quality digital cameras to record the passengers’ actual tour, the Indonesian Archipelago of Borneo, Sumatra, capturing the music, and live narration. Along with Java, Celebes, and Irian Jaya (Dutch New Guinea) introducing new and innovative ways to improve the conducting extensive external loading operations entire helicopter tour experience, Safari was also the moving oil drilling rigs piece by piece to remote site first operator in the State to fly the higher performance locations. ASTAR 350 B2 helicopters introduced in 1991. Preston maintained his flying proficiency with the Naval Reserves as Nowadays, Safari flys the Executive Officer for a combat search and rescue squadron based at NAS North Island, flying the H-3A helicopter. It didn’t Super ASTAR 350 B2-7 which take him long to realize he was not meant for a three-piece features a left side pilot seat configuration suit or freeway traffic jams and moved his family to Hawaii. allowing for a better view when flying clockwise around the island, higher performance, more If you are interested in flight-seeing Kauai with a small, reliability, and more passenger leg room… family-owned company that offers you professional and another ‘first’. These aircrafts are now equipped caring service, then fly with Preston Myers or one of his with “Mega” windows offering almost 40% highly qualified pilots. Myers is truly concerned about his increased visibility. Safari was also the first to passengers’ safety and believes in the axiom, “There are old Family owned and operated initiate the production of the “Safari Skylight” pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold ceiling windows to open up the skies above for an From our family to yours…Escape your pilots.” awesome view of Mt. Waialeale Crater. reality and join ours as we take you on a Safari Helicopter Tours is a Certified Part 135 air carrier, tour into the heart of the Garden Island. Preston Myers, one of the island’s most Part 133 External-load Operator, and is experienced pilots with more than 40 years in also authorized under Part 137. Safari aviation, started flying at Mt. San Antonio College near Pomona, Helicopters not only has sightseeing tour experience California prior to the Vietnam conflict. He then graduated with a degree but has conducted contracts with the US Navy and in aviation before entering the U.S. Navy. Myers recently retired from the was DOD AMC authorized, Inter-Agency qualified to fly US Government personnel with several years experience fire-fighting on the US Mainland. Overall, no other company in Hawaii has this kind of experience. Tours vary depending on weather, 48 hr. cancellation, Weight restrictions apply. Call 808-246-0136 or toll-free 808-326-3356 for more information. Tours are also available on the Big Island in Hilo at 808-969-1259. Email: info@safarihelicopters.com, Web: www.safarihelicopters.com

Call 808-246-0136

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The Hawaiian Way DEFINING THE ALOHA SPIRIT WORDS AMBER NIGHTINGALE

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Aloha.

A ubiquitous word that has become entwined with the identity of Hawaiÿi, aloha symbolizes more than an amicable greeting, luxury seascape holiday, or nostalgic gift shop find. With an enchanting allure unique to the Hawaiian Islands, the Aloha Spirit contains deep cultural roots that embody a universal message. Whether experienced by faraway visitors or homegrown locals, aloha holds a legacy of its own. What is the Aloha Spirit? Attempting to describe the Aloha Spirit is near impossible, like explaining the feeling of a rapturous scarlet-tinted sunset, or the soothing remedy of human touch. It goes beyond definition and is without a location—an omnipresent energy that lives everywhere. Outwardly (excluding trendy island wear) the Aloha Spirit may be perceived in simple acts of kindness, hospitality, truth, integrity, and steadfast patience in otherwise agitating paradise-laden traffic jams. Core values in family, reverence for nature, and the foundational understanding of the connectedness that binds humanity, all allude to the transcendental Aloha Spirit. “The spirit of aloha affects everything we do, not so much in words, it doesn’t come from the mouth—it comes from the action. To show you have aloha is from your action and how you deal with things. Aloha is the center of all things Hawaiian,” describes Naÿauao Paneÿe, a Hawaiian Language teacher at Brigham Young University. Hawaiian History, Ethics and Western Influence Ancient Hawaiian values were centered on a foundation in the Aloha Spirit. As a core element in cultural ideology, practices and spirituality, aloha directly translates from the root word hä, which means “the breath of life.” This breath penetrated every aspect of Hawaiian existence and resulted in a way of life where appreciation, gratitude and the spirit of generosity prevailed. Some may disagree with the genesis since aloha isn’t actually alohä. Some etymologists believe it’s more likely to have originated from the Samoan word “alohfa” or the Mäori word “aroha,” which both words mean love. Mary Kawena Pukui in the Hawaiian Dictionary defines aloha as “love, affection, compassion, mercy, sympathy, kindness, grace, charity and greeting.” Aloha ÿäina (love for the land) was also an essential understanding that illuminated a sincere respect for the earth. Hawaiians emphasized the recognition of mana (spirit) found within nature’s bounty, and that how we relate to it is imperative. Communing with nature was a metaphor for family values, such as honoring kupuna (elders) and ancestors, while guiding children in the aloha tenets. Underlying these interpersonal relationships was the pivotal connection one had myhawaiitraveler.com

"The Aloha Spirit is from within. It is that spirit of truth that can be found in every culture—not just Hawaiian. . . Aloha begins with you." - Puna Dawson

Tourism, Politics and Commercial Culture With its newfound statehood, Hawaiÿi quickly became the exotic travel destination of choice for intrigued mainlanders. It was a time of profound transition, and the strikingly increasing rates of visitors spawned a new status for Hawaiÿi—it was birthing a tourism-based culture. Clearly, Hawaiÿi emanated an idyllic quality that the other states did not, and tourists craved the multicultural ambiance. Suddenly, the Aloha Spirit became a commonplace column heading in newspapers and a key topic of political discourse. In 1986, the Aloha Spirit was written into state law, found in the Hawaiÿi Revised Statutes—which still exists today. It states, “The ‘Aloha Spirit’ is the coordination of mind and heart within each person. It brings each person to the self. Each person must think and emote good feelings to others.” These basic doctrines of aloha instilled a remembrance in the governmental arena that perpetuated cultural roots and defined Hawaiÿi’s unique subjective paradigm. Lively lüÿau, poi pounding, hula performances, and surfing all exuded the island tourism niche that embraced the spirit of aloha, which also fashioned a destination image that glimmered commercialism. Finessed in beach resort branding, mass produced souvenirs, and as an epochal greeting that’s still standard, aloha did admittedly shine as an asset that fueled a healthy economy and lured inquisitive tourists. This commodified version of aloha is one that is recognized by most. Has aloha evolved into a marketing scheme to drive tourism? Some academics might suggest, 34

pointing its finger in objectivity, that the Aloha Spirit has been manipulated to fabricate a culture with profitable aims, while acting as a political band-aid to relieve multicultural tension. Aloha becomes like wearing a modish frame of rose-tinted glasses that promises a therapeutical antidote to life’s challenges. Has aloha retained its cultural virtue? Live Aloha Despite its modernized quasi-commercial status, the Aloha Spirit is not confined to a showy storefront t-shirt or cutesy morning coffee mug. It contains within it an unshakeable heritage that is bound by nothing and undeniably beautiful—a pure essence that cannot be dominated or destroyed. Perhaps the external expression of aloha has been forcibly resized to fit the ever-changing needs of contemporary society. This present-day rendition of aloha does not devalue it, but rather presents a warm memento of a rich spirit with profound cultural and universal significance. Revered hula master and international Hawaiian cultural presence Puna Dawson illuminates, “The Aloha Spirit is from within. It is that spirit of truth that can be found in every culture—not just Hawaiian. It is an understanding and appreciation for life…all of life’s gifts, and how we share them with one another. Aloha begins with you.” The Aloha Spirit is a shimmering emanation of Hawaiÿi that is infinite and irreplaceable. It’s the gentle reminder to breathe, close your eyes, enjoy the breeze, hear the birdsong, and smile candidly at a stranger. Aloha resides in forgiveness, nurturing a friend, reverence for nature, counting your blessings, and loving who you are and others. For me, it’s a heartfelt inhalation that enlivens appreciation for the beauty of creation and our shared experience as human beings. Aloha is a mutual understanding for those blessed to live on the islands—a decree that cannot be reckoned with. Although the Aloha Spirit can be found in abundance on the Big Island with seriously few residents living without, it is not bound to Hawaiÿi, but instead encompasses a global relevancy. It ripples across the sapphire ocean to inspire a righteous vision where family, natural resources and the connection with oneself and others are cherished. Throughout history and the present stylish informality of aloha, the essence remains the same. May you experience the true legacy of the Aloha Spirit—feeling its eternal breath of life. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE BOTTOM RIGHT/HTA-TOR JOHNSON)

with their self. By cultivating a perceptive awareness and understanding of one’s own being, Hawaiians affirmed all areas of life would prosper. When Westerners arrived in Hawaiÿi, this sturdy foundation of aloha was hugely compromised. In 1778, Captain Cook’s famed discovery occurred, which led to an influx of Western thought and influence. The concept of aloha became a way to coin the dignified nature of Hawaiian culture. Along with ships, sailors and disease came Christian missionaries who found common threads in aloha ideology to suffuse their religious beliefs. Many Hawaiian rulers were Christianized and a new set of community, cultural, and political values soon took precedence. For decades that ensued, the arrival of immigrants and other settlers led to a diluted expression of the Aloha Spirit that barely permeated island culture. However, when Hawaiÿi became America’s 50th state in 1959, a revival in the acknowledgment of aloha arose.

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Breathing in Paradise THE SWEET SCENT OF HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I WORDS MILLIE MABELLE

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

hen you stepped off the plane here, you probably took an extra deep breath of fresh air after the long flight over to the Big Island. You might have noticed a lovely floral scent that is undeniably tropical or even greeted with a special garland of island flowers or lei. As you stood amidst your luggage in the open-air airport and gathered your bearings, perhaps you felt intoxicated by the sweet pungent power of your lei. And most likely, you probably wondered about the heavenly individual flowers adorning you or how this custom of giving lei began. The tradition of giving lei (the word is singular and plural in Hawaiian) began with the early Polynesian explorers who came to Hawaiÿi by canoe, guided only by the stars. The garlands they donned were rather different from what we recognize as lei today, however. They included flowers and leaves, but also consisted of feathers, shells, seeds and even animal’s teeth. They were worn as a mark of privilege by royalty and those at the top of society’s hierarchy and were symbolically exchanged by chiefs as a token of peace. With the advent of tourism, ocean liners transported both malihini (visitors) and kamaÿäina (residents) to and from Hawaiÿi, and their days of arrival and departure became known as Boat Days. Whole communities were involved in the celebrations and, central to the festivities, was an abundant exchange of lei. Those departing customarily threw their garland into the sea, hoping it would float back to shore as they believed this would ensure their return to the islands. At the height of these exciting Boat Days in 1927, Hawaiian Poet Laureate Don Blanding suggested the idea that May Day should be a celebration of lei and it subsequently became known as Lei Day, an annual festival that is still celebrated today. This special form of floral exchange has become an integral part of island weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, graduations and promotions. And in true relaxed Hawaiian style, you can don lei in line with cultural etiquette on any occasion and for no particular reason. One of my favorite things about living in Hawaiÿi is treating myself to a necklace of luscious flowers whenever I feel like it! So are there any rules about when or how to exchange them? Most importantly, if you are offered one, graciously accept! Refusal may be considered disrespectful. If you can’t wear it, perhaps due to an allergy or because it would interfere with something you’re doing like playing sports or an instrument, it’s customary to hang it on display. Typically, pregnant women are given an open lei, which means the ends are not tied together, but hang down the front of the torso. For closed lei, which form a loop, the proper way to wear them is draped loosely over your shoulders, extending down both front and back. And tradition urges you not to remove it in the presence of the person who gave it to you. Should you wish to give one, perhaps to someone you aren’t well acquainted with, how is it correctly done? World War II saw the beginnings of the custom of giving lei with a kiss on the cheek. Some traditionalists, however, still prefer to make a presentation with a slight bow of the head—either way is acceptable. What about the individual flowers that make up your lei? Do you know your plumeria from your pïkake? Below is an abbreviated guide to some of the Hawaiÿi’s most common tropical flora. myhawaiitraveler.com

Plumeria

White plumeria are most often seen on the Big Island though they can be pink or red and include yellow and orange hues. Commonly called frangipani, they are a favorite in perfumes and bathing products. Their petals have an elliptical, pointed shape and are as beautiful as they are sweet. Their velvety texture makes them feel sensuous to the touch, but be mindful not to touch the milky white sap of the tree as it can cause skin irritations. It takes approximately 50 blossoms for a single, 40-inch lei. The plumeria lei will last for one day before the petals start to brown at the edges. Plumeria also provide a useful tool in displaying the wearer’s relationship status. You will often see wahine (women) wearing a flower behind the ear and, according to tradition, if the flower is tucked behind their right ear, they are single and, if behind their left, they are taken.

Tuberose

Tuberose is a night blooming flower named after its root system, the Latin tuberosa, meaning “swollen.” Its clusters of white, spiky flowers are wax-like to the touch and emit a rich, sensuous fragrance. They are grown commercially for perfume and, once used in funerals, are today associated with romance.

White Ginger Lily

It always amazes me that this delicate flower is classified as a weed and considered an invasive species in Hawaiÿi. However, the white ginger lilies have the ability to spread quickly and have complex root systems that soak up any water in the area, leaving native plants dehydrated and unable to survive. As such, you’ll see it growing in abundance throughout forests and roadsides. Its three individually myhawaiitraveler.com

shaped leaves are white and pale yellow. Once picked, the flower lasts for just one day. I often pick them anyway because, for that day, their acute scent fills my home with the sweetest aroma.

Pīkake

These lovely white flowers get their name from the Hawaiian Princess Kaÿiulani. A favorite of hers, she named them after her cherished peacocks that roamed her garden. Lei made from these sweet-smelling flowers have long been used in courtship ritual.

Gardenia

These creamy white or yellow flowers are commonly called näÿü or nänü in Hawaiian and are a staple in perfumery. Their exotic fragrance makes them a favorite expression of romance and they’re often used in bridal bouquets. As tempting as it is to keep touching the soft petals of these sensuous flowers, the more you refrain, the longer you can retain its delicate beauty. When you are not wearing your lei, you can prolong the freshness by sprinkling water lightly on the garland, then wrapping it in a damp paper towel and keeping it cool. Should you want to bottle olfactory memories of your time on the Big Island, you can find some wonderful perfumes and pampering products like soaps and lotions made on-island with these heavenly flowers. Some lei can be dried out and enjoyed for days after they have lost their original scent. Most wilt and die fairly quickly; however, I find them all the more special for their transience. Inhaling and admiring these tropical gifts of nature connects me with the passing seasons and serves as a reminder to celebrate each precious moment of island life. 39

HISTORIC NORTH & SUNNY SOUTH Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 40

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP/BOTTOM) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

HualĂ¤lai . . .

architecture that recaptures the true essence of classic Hawaiian renowned spa, a Signature Jack Nicklaus and Tom Weiskopf golf AAA Five-Diamond, Five-Star Four Seasons Resort Hualalai. com. P.O. Box 819, Kailua Kona, HI 96745 myhawaiitraveler.com

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STYLE

MAUNA LANI - SOUTH COURSE #15

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert 42

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i.

Challenging 18 holes overlooking the Pacific and an epic over-the-ocean par-3 has set the standard for Hawai‘i golf for generations. Master the unforgettable, right here. TimelessMaunaKea.com myhawaiitraveler.com

Timeless happens here. 43

CULTURE TRIP EXPLORE THE HISTORIC SITES OF NORTH KOHALA WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM IMAGES KIRK LEE AEDER

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

eyond the resorts of Waikoloa and the Port of Kawaihae, there is a profound and beautiful quietness at the northwestern edge of the Big Island. Sun drenched hills roll and tumble, and the sea looks impossibly blue. On a clear day, in the distance, the top of Maui’s Haleakalä Volcano emerges from above the clouds, reminding you that something else is out there, even when there is hardly anyone around you. Few people live in this rugged and remote stretch of the island. But even though this area looks empty on the surface, historical secrets of the past are here, waiting to be explored. On these windswept shores of the North Kohala Coast, you can visit three lesser known historical sites: a once bustling fishing village, the birthplace of Hawai‘i’s most revered king, and a temple with a grisly history. As you embark on an off the beaten path adventure to explore these places, this sparsely populated land comes alive with stories of the past.

Lapakahi State Historical Park

About 12 miles north of Kawaihae, Lapakahi State Park features the remnants and partially rebuilt structures of a 700-year-old fishing village named Koaiÿe. At this 262-acre park, you can take a short selfguided tour and gain an understanding of what daily life was once like in this village. Walking along the arid terrain, you may wonder how early Hawaiian settlers survived in such a place. It’s often dry and sunny here, which makes it a great place to visit, but potentially a difficult place to live without the help of modern technology. In order to survive on this land, the people of the village had resourceful ways of living that enabled them to make the most of what they had to work with. They caught heÿe (octopuses) using lüheÿe (cowry shell) lures. They used stones that they carved into bowls and the strength of the sun to turn sea water into sea salt. They took myhawaiitraveler.com

advantage of lava cliff vantage points overlooking the ocean to watch the movements of fish and other sea animals before casting their nets. This area was inhabited until the late 1800s. Historians are not completely sure why it was abandoned, but a popular theory is that the water table decreased and minimized access to fresh water in this location. In 2009, Lapakahi was listed as one of Hawai‘i’s most endangered historical sites by the Historic Hawai‘i Foundation. An important 17-acre chunk of land inside the park was privately owned and under threat of development. In 2011, the Trust for Public Land helped secure the funding needed to purchase the 17 acres, thus preventing development and making the land officially part of the park. In addition to providing a glimpse into life in ancient Hawai‘i, Lapakahi offers stunning views of the coastline and ocean. Look closely at the sea, and you may spot yellow tangs and Moorish idols swimming among the coral in the clear, shallow waters near the coast. Lapakahi is free and open from 8am to 4pm daily, with the exception of state holidays. Brochures are typically available when you enter the park, and you can also download a brochure from the Department of Land and Natural Resources website at http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/hawaii/lapakahi-state-historical-park.

Kohala Historical Sites State Monument

On the northernmost tip of the Big Island, just outside of Hawi’s main drag, you’ll find Kohala Historical Sites State Monument. This park includes two heiau (temples): Moÿokini Heiau and Kamehameha Akahi ÿÄina Hanau Heiau, the birthplace of Kamehameha I. These sites are open from 9am to 8pm daily, except on Wednesdays. To get to these heiau, most people park at the Upolu Airport and hike in a mile and a half along the coast. While hiking is the preferred method of getting there, it is possible to drive to these sites. However, 45

it is important to know that the road is not always maintained and can get flooded. A four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended if you plan on driving. You’ll know you’ve reached the sites when you come across two rustic signs on a barbed wire fence. One sign points to the Moÿokini Heiau while the other leads to Kamehameha I’s birthplace. Also known as Kamehameha the Great, King Kamehameha I is a central figure in Hawaiian history. He is most revered for unifying the Hawaiian Islands into one kingdom, which ended the constant battling among the aliÿi (chiefs) of the islands. Exact facts about Kamehameha I’s birth date and location are not known, but it is believed that he was born at or nearby this location in the 1750s. Around the corner from Kamehameha I’s birthplace is Moÿokini Heiau. Without knowing the history of the Moÿokini Heiau, it may appear to be a tranquil, harmless location. That was not always the case. Moÿokini Heiau is a luakini heiau—a temple dedicated to sacrifice. The story of Moÿokini Heiau begins with Päÿao, a priest who came to Hawaiÿi from either Tahiti or Samoa. It is unclear whether Päÿao was an actual person or a legend, but it is believed that kapu—the strict laws that dictated social, religious, and political life in ancient Hawai‘i—began with him. Alongside kapu, a caste system was established in which the aliÿi were at the top, the kahuna were priests and high-level professionals, and the makaÿäinana were the commoners. The kauä were the outcasts at the bottom of society, and they were the most frequent victims of human sacrifice under the kapu system. Moÿokini Heiau was built to honor the war god, Kü, and tens of thousands of people were sacrificed here. One of the most prominent remnants of the ruins at Moÿokini is Papanui Oleka, a large concave stone where victims had their flesh stripped and their bones extracted after they were sacrificed. As you walk around this temple, the atmosphere is a chilling contrast from the way Hawaiÿi is typically viewed today. The kapu system was eventually abolished in 1819 by Kamehameha I’s son, Kamehameha II. Many temples were destroyed at this time, but the Moÿokini Heiau was allowed to remain because it was believed that its mana (spiritual power) was too strong to destroy it. When you visit the heiau today, you may find some lei and other items left as offerings as some people still consider it to be a sacred place. During whale watching season, typically from November to the beginning of May, the shores of Kohala Historical Sites State Monument are a great place to look for humpback whales breaching in the distance. Sitting along the empty shoreline, watching the waves, and looking for whales is so idyllic that it’s hard to reconcile the images in front of you with the macabre history of this location. But it is in exploring the complex layers of history that we truly get to know and understand a place. And with this exploration, our travels become richer. 46

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DESTINATIONS

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 48

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

THE KONA COAST

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ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of

their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com.

A CUT ABOVE

MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur features the finest home furnishings and personal accessories made with Koa, the beautiful wood grown only in Hawaii. Come see our elegant Koa wood watches, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa iPhone and iPad covers, and Koa sunglasses. We have been making fine Koa furniture for over 50 years. We feature the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, model canoes, Hawaiian feather lei and ancient Hawaiian weapons made by over 200 local Hawaii craftsmen. Located at the Kings’ Shops. Call (808) 845-6688 or visit martinandmacarthur.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including,

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

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candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queensâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com. QUEENSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace. net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort HualĂ¤laiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 325-4765. TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style â&#x20AC;&#x153;talk storyâ&#x20AC;? events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i. Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 7475882 for more information.

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FLAWLESS STYLE

ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship. The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be proud to wear herself. Hildgund is forever searching the world for precious stones

"I WANT TO GIVE OUR CUSTOMERS A ONE-OFA-KIND PERFECT PIECE THAT THEY CAN'T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE." -BRUCE BUCKY, PRESIDENT

that are transformed into wondrous works of art by designers from Hawai‘i and around the globe. Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.

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BOLD STATEMENTS

Tiffany & Co. announces Tiffany HardWear, a new jewelry collection that embodies the power and spirit of New York City and the energy of its streets. The collection name and designs draw inspiration from the urban soul of the city, where the modern rebel mixes high fashion with street style. Tiffany HardWear is as classic as it is edgy. Inspired by a unisex bracelet from 1971, the collection has been reimagined to include earrings, rings, necklaces and pendants, and goes perfectly with a leather jacket as it does with couture. Featured left, Tiffany Hardwear Bead Double Drop Earring in 18k Yellow Gold ($2500). Also shown, above right, Tiffany Hardwear Chain Wrap Necklace in 18k Yellow Gold ($11,500). Available at Tiffany & Co. in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-1931.

PHOTO COURTESY (ALL) TIFFANY & CO.

Paloma Picasso is almost as well known for her joy for life as she is for her jewelry designs, as displayed in her latest collection, Paloma's Melody. Composed of five interlocking, lyrical bands—each representing a personal sentiment: dreams, beauty, creativity, gratitude and passion—that gently shift and spin as they glide with the body before coming back together as a whole. The gentle music the bands make when moving are the melody of a life well lived. Paloma’s Melody, featured left, 5-band ring in 18k yellow gold ($3,000). Available at Tiffany & Co. in the Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-1931.

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BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.

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PIECES OF PARADISE

Exquisite Hoorsenbuhs bracelets, shown above in 18k Rose gold w/ approx. 5.47 karats white diamonds ($65,000) and Phantom II cuff in 18k Rose gold ($26,500). Available at Seaside Luxe in HualÄ lai Resort.

Limited edition, fine Italian patent leather handbags, made by American artisans with full silk linings. Exclusive to Martin & MacArthur (above). Exquisite Shell Jewelry made by Maui craftsman Lalepa (right). Available at Martin & MacArthur in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort. 56

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Fine Design

OAHU: Na Lama Kukui • 808.524.7769 (Formerly Gentry Paciﬁc Design Center) Ward Avenue Store • 808.596.7333 MAUI: Kahului • 808.877.7200 myhawaiitraveler.com www.hawaiianrugs.com

GOLF

External Beauty PEARLS ARE FOREVER

WORDS JASON SORENSON

hat is it about pearls that make them so alluring? We’ve all seen the images of the jewel hidden within the clamshell—the perfect gift for the sophisticated woman (think Jackie Onassis). The perfectly round spheres of hard-to-describe colors strung together to make an exquisite necklace or used as the centerpiece of a one-of-akind ring. And inherently we get the message: this is valuable. But why? It is a near-universal cultural practice for humans to adorn themselves with various sorts of jewelry; but whereas most adornments remain little more than anthropological curiosities, some—for whatever reason—have a broad and timeless appeal, which crosses social and cultural lines. Pearls are one such commodity. They are, even to this day, synonymous with prestige, class and affluence. And though our modern age has made it considerably easier to acquire pearls, they still maintain a very lofty image in the eyes of many as a symbol of significance and value. Why, for instance, do we refer to a particularly clever bit of insight as “a pearl of wisdom” as opposed to say, an “opal of wisdom?” 58

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Let’s begin with how pearls themselves begin. A pearl is a hard and unusual object produced by mollusks (large phylum of invertebrate animals) when a microscopic irritant, such as a wayward food particle, is trapped within their mantle folds. The mantle is an organ that produces the mollusks shell with a substance called nacre—a composition of aragonite (calcium carbonate) and conchiolin. When the foreign irritant slips between the mollusks mantle and shell, its natural defensive reaction is to cover the irritant with a layers of nacre, therefore forming a pearl. While any shelled mollusk can produce such a pearl, most are not considered commercially valuable; those which are utilized for jewelry come from nacreous saltwater pearl oysters, or from freshwater pearl mussels. Until fairly recently, pearls could only be created via wholly natural processes; hundreds upon hundreds of oysters and mussels had to be gathered, opened and killed just to try to find one rare, wild pearl—and even then, there was no guarantee that the pearl would be a sphere. It is estimated that only one in every 10,000 animals would contain an ideal, naturally made pearl. Wild pearls come in a wide variety of shapes: round, semi-round, button, drop, pear, oval, baroque (irregular shape), and circled. Needless to say, given the rarity of finding a perfectly round natural pearl, they are extremely valuable. Their relative value is determined in much the same fashion as other types of gems: size, shape, color, quality of surface, orient, and luster—the last of which, along with size itself, is considered to be the most important factor to jewelers. Luster is the result of the reflection of light rays off the surface and concentric inner layers of nacre in the pearl, and is a huge determining factor in the pearl’s worth. In particular, matched strands of natural pearls are exceptionally rare, and thus it is common to see such prizes valued at several hundreds of thousands of dollars. In 1917, in exchange for a matched, double strand of 128 flawless natural pearls plus $100, Jeweler Pierre Cartier purchased the fine Fifth Avenue mansion from Morton Plant for his wife (now the New York Cartier flagship store), which according to The New York Times was valued at $925,000 at the time. He had been collecting the pearls for years and, at the time, was valued at one million dollars. Given the sheer amount of

WAIKOLOA BEACH COURSE - HOLE #7

man-hours required to harvest the pearls to create such an item, along with the exceptional uniqueness of this type of jewelry, you can now see why pearls hold such cultural and economic significance. Why, then, are pearls so readily available today? A pearl is a pearl, right? This is where it gets interesting. The aforementioned process—a process, which has endured for thousands of years—today produces roughly only 1% of all the pearls in the world. So where do the rest of them come from? Chances are the pearls that you own and the pearls that are readily for sale are cultured pearls. Cultured pearls do not mean that they are grown in a lab, or that they are fake; imitation pearls most certainly exist, but a “cultured” pearl simply means that, rather than leaving events completely to chance, the mollusk has an irritant (usually a piece of another mollusk’s mantle tissue) introduced in order to produce a pearl in a controlled setting. There is a long and debatable history on the beginnings of cultured pearls, but contrary to popular belief, the famed pearl farmer Kökichi Mikimoto was not the original inventor of perliculture. He did, however, play a pivotal role. Experts today now credit British biologist William Saville-Kent for discovering the possibility of culturing pearls at the end of the 19th century in Australia. One common belief is that his findings were passed on to carpenter Tatsuhei Mise and biologist Tokichi Nishikawa, who spent time in Australia and took the practice back to Japan. Both men shared a patent known as the “MiseNishikawa Method” for the pearl-culturing technique. It is believed that Mikimoto had developed a very similar practice but, after learning such a process already existed, he altered his technique to make round pearls, which granted its own patent in 1916. With this element, Mikimoto established the world’s first great pearl farm. Commercially viable harvests began in the 1920s and the sheer volume of cultured pearls meant that, for the first time, the coveted pearl was available to more than just the ultra-affluent. Whatever the history may be, it is for this reason that Mikimoto is often credited as the pioneer of cultured pearls—he simply eclipsed his counterparts with a refined entrepreneurial skill. Today, two types of cultured pearls exist. Most common are non-beaded freshwater pearls, such as Biwa or Chinese pearls. A non-beaded nucleus is created when small pieces of mantle tissue are inserted into the mantle tissue of another mollusk. The mussel can withstand many of these insertions at a single time leading to a quicker process that 60

can yield dozens of pearls. Significant improvements have been made in the quality of the finished product and the process lends itself to mass-production, explaining the abundant supply that keeps prices from escalating. Less common, however, are beaded saltwater cultured pearls. If you’ve ever seen ads for Tahitian pearls, South Sea pearls or Akoya pearls, and wondered what the big deal was, the truth is that they are indeed more exclusive than the vast majority of non-beaded freshwater pearls found on the market today. The process for creating a beaded pearl—involving where the pearl is grown inside the mollusk itself—means that typically, a mother of pearl bead (made from a mussel’s shell) is inserted into an incision made to the mollusks reproductive organ. This is followed with a very small piece of mantle tissue. This creates nacre layering that produces a beautiful pearl with a solid, nonnacre center that often leads to larger and rounder pearls, yet only allows for only one pearl to be grown at a time. Considering that pearls are usually harvested after two to four years (in some cases longer), this yields a significantly different (and higher) market value. Also, as a side note: for those who love pearls yet feel it’s inhumane to kill the oyster, invest in South Sea or Tahitian pearls. The oysters actually survive the harvesting process so you can look good with a healthy conscience! Another interesting aspect of cultured pearls is that it’s possible to produce them in a wide variety of colors. While such colors occur in natural pearls, it’s by random chance—colors ranging from white to gold to purple, pink and black. A natural pearl’s color depends on the species of mollusk from which it came and the environment in which the animal lived. Famed Tahitian black pearls are somewhat notable because black pearl oysters rarely produce natural pearls (and white oysters almost never produce black pearls), but it should be mentioned that it is entirely feasible to produce beaded cultured black pearls. Likewise, it is no more difficult to produce pearls of any other color. During the culturing process, natural dyes are inserted into the mollusk shell in order to ensure pearls of a particular color. So what, then, is the “real” value of a pearl? Are those pearls you see in the store worth the price, and do pearls still live up to their mystique? Well, consider this: a gemstone is simply a rock. Rare and refined, yes, and stunningly beautiful—but a rock harvested from the earth nonetheless. On the other hand, life itself is needed to create a pearl. And in that regard, perhaps pearls are the rarest and most precious jewel of them all. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Grade AAA Tahitian Pearl jewelry from Martin & MacArthur, handchosen from Tahitian pearl farmers. myhawaiitraveler.com

TASTE

‘ULU OCEAN GRILL & SUSHI LOUNGE AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

64 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 68 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 72 THE HOT SPOT 74 CULINARY Q&A 76 SUMMER WINES 78 LŪ‘AU 82 GO EXOTIC

TASTE OF HAWAI‘I 62

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KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368. COAST GRILLE At Coast Grille, Executive Chef, Peter Abarcar Jr and Chef de Cuisine, Vince Logan are passionate in the pursuit of the freshest island ingredients where sustainable, organic and wild ingredients are sourced to present, Island Seafood Gastronomy. Dine overlooking the breathtaking Pacific and indulge in the Coast Grille Oyster Bar featuring the freshest seafood including seasonal oysters with your choice of tempting sauces on the half shell or as a shooter. Also presented are local delicacies including Salt Water Poached Kona Abalone and Fresh Catch Poke, made to order. Located at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. For reservations call (808) 880-1111.

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COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.

SEAFOOD

KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com.. myhawaiitraveler.com

3-5:30pm 10pm - closing

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5:30-6:30pm

NFL SUNDAY BREAKFASTS

KA WA I H A E

Kick-off to 11am

SASHIMI • STEAKS • FRESH FISH • CLAMS • BURGERS • SALADS Tuesday Night is KIAWE SMOKED PRIME RIB NIGHT 3 Big Screen HDTVs

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HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525.

HAPPY HOUR DAILY

OPEN DAILY 11AM - 2AM

808-880-9393

Seafood Bar & Grill Best Restaurant in Kawaihae

AIR-CONDITIONED 61-3642 KAWAIHAE ROAD WWW.SEAFOODBARGRILL.COM

2011

Happy Hour 3-6 pm Everyday

Live Music Thursday-Saturday HAND-TOSSED GOURMET PIZZA

OVER 20 BEERS ON TAP

Craft Beers, Fresh Foods, Sports and Superb Hospitality! TropicsAleHouse.com

Come in for a 10% Discount WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa 808-886-4287

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona 808-498-4507

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AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com. MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810.

Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardwinning favors featuring locally grown produce. Savor the best from the surf and the turf. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 8:30 pm. For reservations, call 808.887.7368 or visit fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii.

NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000. NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

the Mauna Kea Golf Course.For reservations call (808) 882-5810. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking myhawaiitraveler.com

views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allen Hess has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations. THE KOA TABLE BY CHEF IPPY Chef Ippy Aiona’s lakeside restaurant features locally-sourced ingredients with Chef Ippy's brilliant execution, and is quickly becoming a popular spot for Hawai‘i diners. Chef Ippy was the youngest person to have been featured on the TV show Food Network Star (Season 8), and has received numerous accolades for his creative and innovative cuisine which mixes European cooking techniques with fresh local cuisine ingredients. Located at Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa Beach Resort. For reservations call (808) 339-7145. TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information. ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and

signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000. KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949. 67

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

CATCH THE BUZZ

Visitors looking for beautiful ocean views, tranquil settings, and delicious food and cocktails should look no further than the Fairmont Orchid’s own Luana Lounge. Located right off the lobby of the resort and perfectly perched to catch idyllic sunsets, Luana Lounge is the ideal place to relax and relish life’s precious gifts. Recently, Luana Lounge added two new drinks featuring honey from the Fairmont Orchid’s very own honey hives located on property. The Bees Knees, featuring Bombay Dry, lemon, and their own homegrown honey, as well as the Honey Mint Julep with Woodford Reserve bourbon, honey, and mint are what everyone’s been buzzing about. With live music, small bites, and an extensive drink menu, Luana Lounge is the ideal place to celebrate another day in paradise. Luana Lounge is located near the lobby of the Fairmont Orchid, located within the Mauna Lani Resort area. For more information, visit http://www.fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii/dining/luanalounge/ or call (808) 885-2000.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

A NEW SPIN ON COMFORT

Local rising superstar Chef Ippy Aiona’s newest restaurant is here! The Koa Table, located in the Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa, was inspired by the delicious meals Chef Ippy was served growing up while sitting at his family’s koa table. Chef Ippy’s parents came from different cultural backgrounds, and both owned and operated their own restaurants, helping inspire dishes that spanned the globe. From his dad’s local Hawaiian plate lunch joint to his mother’s Italian restaurant, The Koa Table’s menu reflects these influences. Described as “chef-inspired comfort food,” The Koa Table’s new menu features local favorites, such as Saimin (in Traditional style, Hipster style, and Foodie style) and tender Korean Short Ribs, as well as dishes plucked right out of any New York Italian grandmother’s cookbook, such as Ziti Al Forno and Spaghetti Carbonara. Don’t forget to check out their lunch menu, with local-style bento boxes, sandwiches, salads, and tons of other goodies in between. When you dine at The Koa Table, you can’t help but feel like you’re part of the family. The Koa Table serves lunch and dinner, and can be found in the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Resort. Guests are encouraged to make reservations by calling (808) 339-7145. myhawaiitraveler.com

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DRINK IN

THE NEW

VIBE

With a striking new renovation, Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is welcoming visitors to stunning views of the blue Pacific with a revamped bar menu and updated, elegant décor. Located at the timeless Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, the newly redone lounge and bar area welcomes guests to a refreshed, clean design that enhances without overpowering the majestic view just beyond. They’ve also renewed an area of the restaurant that’s perfect for private dining parties and gatherings. Along with the new design comes a new bar menu, featuring ÿahi tartare prepared tableside, cravable truffled ÿulu (breadfruit) fries, as well as lip-smackingly delicious sweet and sour pork spareribs. Libations include the Mauna Kea Manhattan, featuring Revel Stoke Roasted Pineapple Flavored Whisky, Carpano Antica, with a dash of Angostura bitters. With these new changes at Manta, dinner and drinks never looked so good. Manta& Pavilion Wine Bar is located within the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel in the Mauna Kea Resort area. They serve breakfast and dinner as well as Sunday Brunch, along with püpü (appetizers) and cocktails in the evening. For more information about menus and reservations, please visit princeresortshawaii.com/mauna-kea-beachhotel/dining/ or call (808) 882-5810.

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THE

HOT SPOT

TOMMY BAHAMA

t’s true…your first thoughts when you hear Tommy Bahama may not be of dinner. You’ll be among many if your thoughts instead turn to upscale resort wear, cheerfully bedecked with visions of the tropics. But, at Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar, the same application to comfortable tropical clothing has been translated into a dining experience—one where the tropical décor is on the walls, and the whimsical flight to the tropics transcends into the food. Fortunately for those of us here on the Big Island, Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar in The Shops at Mauna Lani is the ideal place to be whisked away on an island-inspired dining adventure full of flavor and fun. With lovely island décor greeting you the moment you step inside, the scene is already set for a relaxing dining experience. Guided to your table, perhaps even to one on their open-air länai (patio), you are greeted by a friendly server who will serve as your chaperone on your culinary escapade. Don’t be afraid to take their advice as they help you navigate the delicious options of this tropical escape. At the helm of this journey is Chef Stennis Hirayama, a Big Island native, whose appreciation for the local agriculture comes from his farmer parents. This appreciation is highlighted throughout the entire menu, as local produce and proteins are gathered to create a memorable dining experience. 72

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

Be sure to start your meal off with the must-try Ahi Tuna Tacos, a signature dish. Fresh ÿahi is piled high inside a crispy wonton shell, topped with island slaw and a spicy, creamy wasabi-avocado crème. Their World Famous Coconut Shrimp is another must-try with that hint of tropical flavor from the coconut dipped into their papayamango chutney. There are few better ways to start your meal than these two delightful appetizers. The journey through the tropics doesn’t stop once you reach your entrées. The Macadamia Nut Crusted Fresh Catch combines several of our island’s standouts, from the locally caught fish that ply these warm Pacific waters, such as mahi-mahi, coated with crunchy, creamy macadamia nuts. Another standout and local favorite is the Maui Mokka Coffee Crusted Ribeye, featuring coffee grown on the neighbor island across the ÿAlenuihähä Channel. Served with a grilled cauliflower “steak,” lemon arugula, and sumptuous garlic butter, this dish doesn’t disappoint. The Porterhouse Pork Chop, brined in local Kona Longboard lager, served alongside sweet potatoes and haricot vert, is wonderfully tender and juicy, cooked to perfection, and will forever after be compared to all other pork chops you’ll ever eat. Tommy Bahama features menus for those with special diets, including those with gluten sensitivities and vegetarians. Options include Roasted BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: TOMMY BAHAMA

RESTAURANT & BAR

Vegetable Tacos or a mouthwatering Vegetable Noodle Salad. On this excursion, everyone is thoughtfully included. The next stop on this tasty journey is dessert. When your server stops at your table with the large tray of options, don’t be surprised if you’ll want to take a bite of everything available. Options range to the decadent Malted Chocolate Pie with a rich mocha mousse and crunchy English toffee crumble. Or, for those looking to end their meal on a more island-inspired note, the Key Lime Pie and Piña Colada Cake will hit the spot. The Piña Colada Cake is a nice light, refreshing dessert with vanilla cake, Myers’s Dark Rum, chunks of yummy pineapple, and topped by a delicious white chocolate mousse and toasted coconut. Or, if you’re like me and crave Key Lime Pie on a regular basis, the light custard with the refreshing tartness of the lime and that perfect graham cracker crust puts this pie up near the top of any list of the best of the bests. Don’t forget, the perfect tropical escape is hardly complete without the equally dreamy tropical cocktail in hand. The Coconut Cloud with Ron Matusalem Platino Rum, Stoli Vanil, a splash of Cruzan Coconut Rum, and a dash of cream of coconut is a hammock and a beach in a glass. The Grapefruit Basil cocktail made with Grey Goose Vodka, myhawaiitraveler.com

fresh basil, and grapefruit juice is the ideal libation for those looking for something refreshing. Of course, you can’t go wrong with their famous Mai Tai, the ultimate vacation libation. Their Island Time Happy Hour, between 4pm and 6pm daily, with special drink and food menus, might just be the perfect time to enjoy a little escapism while already on your vacation. As you finish your meal, it becomes clear that Tommy Bahama’s guided dining tour through the tropics is unlike any other culinary journeys experienced on island. No, your first thoughts about Tommy Bahama might not have been the food, but after dining here once, it definitely will be from here on out. Tommy Bahama Restaurant & Bar is located within The Shops at Mauna Lani. They are open for lunch and dinner, from 11:30am -11pm, with their Island Time Happy Hour running from 4pm-6pm daily. Reservations are strongly recommended, and can be made by calling (808) 881-8686. For more information, and to check out their menu, visit tommybahama.com/ restaurants/mauna-lani.

CHEF GEORGE GOMES, JR.

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

What initially sparked your passion for food? I always knew from the age of 15 I’d be a chef, mainly because of my grandfather who used to cook for family functions. We’re Portuguese, so we always had huge feasts for Christmas, holidays, or someone’s birthday, and he’d always cook. His food was always globally inspired. He’d do a bunch of different foods, and he was really creative. So it was my grandfather who actually sparked my passion for food. You know, I already had it, but I knew just from watching him and talking to him that I would want to be a chef, absolutely no doubt. He was Frank Simon, Sr. He was doing things that were ahead of his time. Things he learned from his dad, you know, European techniques with Hawaiÿi ingredients, so very inspiring. What’s your earliest food memory? It’d have to be back to grandpa again. I was maybe 10 years old. He was famous for kälua pork, cooked underground, but he did it like nobody else did—he used to grab the hot stones with his hands. He really believed that touching the food and capturing that moment was really key. He really did it with a lot of grace instead of just throwing the pig in the ground. It was BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: SHERATON KONA RESORT & SPA AT KEAUHOU BAY

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CULINARY Q&A

Growing up in Hawaiÿi, Executive Chef George Gomes, Jr. of the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay always knew that cooking was his calling. Whether it’s enjoying a simple meal of fish and rice cooked beachside with friends and family, or creating “food memories” from his travels all around the world, Chef George takes inspiration from all corners of life and infuses it into his delicious and innovative cuisine.

a dance almost. The pig would come out of the ground with the crispy skin on the wire, with the moist pig with a little bit of smoke flavor to it. He put taro, potatoes, Portuguese sausage around it, and everything goes in the ground. It’s really the things that grow from the Earth. So you’d kill the pig, cook it, and it’s like it’s coming back from the Earth. Why it was memorable was because it was the first time I saw so much passion, so much grace, from something so simple like that. What is your favorite part about being a chef here on the Big Island? What inspires you? To me it doesn’t matter where I am, I just love being a chef—period. What makes the Big Island special, the ingredients we can come up with and the farmers give to us, it’s a huge inspiration to me because we are an ingredient driven hotel. Anything could inspire me. I’m inspired by my dishwashers. I have a painting in my office by one of my dishwashers, and it’s an inspiration. I look at that painting, and I’m like, wow! This dishwasher from 20 years ago was so passionate and committed, and that’s what drives me, that keeps me going. I’ll walk outside sometimes to the kiawe (mesquite) tree, and I’m looking around and I’ll see the cactus fruit and so I’ll take that and say, hey, we can make a sorbet out of it. It’s a beautiful bright red piece of fruit that nobody really uses on the property, so inspiration to me can be anything. And the Big Island, with its 11 climate zones, and all the soils, are all inspiration. I couldn’t be happier. What are your favorite ingredients that you can only get locally? Obviously the fruits and veggies, but for me, the wild boar here is the only flavor of wild boar that you can’t get anywhere else. I think because of the macadamia nuts and the vegetation. When we get the wild boar from Hilo, it smells like mac nuts. And we use every part of the animal. The reason I use every part of the animal is because it’s respect for the animal. And we’re training our cooks that you need to use every part of the animal, that the pork tenderloin is not the only part of the pig. We use nose to tail here, and that’s why it’s my favorite ingredient. Besides that, the ÿöhelo berry that you can only get here—when you pair the ÿöhelo berry and the wild boar, it’s like a meat and wine. Of course, the bountiful fruits and veggies, and the farmers and fisherman who make our jobs really easy. If we were to take a peek into your refrigerator/pantry, what is the most surprising ingredient we’d find? Got to be salt. I love salt. Whether it’s Maldon sea salt to finish, Hawaiian red salt, Hawaiian black salt, or kosher salt, that’s integral to any cooking, even to desserts. So everyday, whenever you’re composing a menu, or fooling around with desserts, you need to have some type of salt as a seasoning. Salt I love. What do you consider to be your signature dish or a must-try? We really don’t have a signature, when we cook we don’t try to duplicate. I think a must-try is definitely our Ingredients dinner. If you can come to our Ingredients: Culinary Series dinner here at the Sheraton where we feature one ingredient, the last one was kiawe, so we took the kiawe wood for smoking, and we took the bean and made a flour, and the bean was very sweet, very sticky almost. We made a bread from that, and we used the wood to smoke, so that was a great dinner. The Ingredients dinner is a must try. It’s where we put our best foot forward. The next one is with Hämäkua Mushrooms. What is your most memorable dining experience that you’ve had here on the Big Island? It’d have to be probably at my home, where we gathered and had a whole fish. It’s actually on the beach, and we just grill a whole fish on the BBQ with some hot and sour sauces, we had steamed rice, and local veggies, and that was just great and so memorable. The reason why was because it was so simple, and the simple things are hardest to do because obviously the product has to speak for itself. How are you a different chef now than you were 10 years ago? I guess I would say I’m more seasoned, more calm, and just in this mode where I want to teach my cooks about respect, about being committed to your craft, where maybe 10 years ago, it was more about just putting food out. Right now I’m calmer, and more of a coach, more of a mentor, to whoever I can be one to. I think my cooking has changed, too—I have more respect for the simple things, not just in cooking, but also in life in general, and I think that makes my food even better. You can sample Chef Gomes’ food at Rays on the Bay restaurant at Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay located at 78-128 Ehukai St., in Kailua-Kona. Their upcoming dining events include a Mother’s Day brunch as well as the Ingredients: Culinary Series dinner. For more information, visit their website at sheratonkona.com or call (808) 930-4949. myhawaiitraveler.com

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UNCONVENTIONAL SUMMER WINES BROADEN YOUR WINE LIST WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Nothing can beat a crisp sip of chilled wine on a warm summer afternoon in a tropical paradise, but reaching for the same bottle time and again can become somewhat monotonous. If you are looking to try something new to add to your repertoire, try some of these unconventional summer whites to keep your palate in happy spirits.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Assyrtiko

This white grape indigenous to the island of Santorini in Greece is known for a racing acidity pairing with a delicate sweetness that can only be described as tantalizing. Grown in rich volcanic soils, the resulting wines have a delicious shade of minerality draped behind each sip that creates a complex and haunting white wine that, when served chilled, is a perfect choice to sip on during a warm afternoon. Chuck Furuya, Hawaiÿi’s first Master Sommelier, suggests the 2012 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($12 per bottle; sigalas-wine.com), which is grown in black lava rock and pumice stone and then fermented slowly in stainless steel tanks to retain as much fruit characteristics from the grapes as possible. The resulting wine is a gentle straw blond color bursting with vibrant citrus notes and an aftertaste that will extensively perfume your palate. An interesting balance between indulgent and assertive, this wine deliciously pairs with white meats such as a tenderloin of pork, slow roasted for hours and served with a light sauce. The light body of this wine will not be lost against the pork while the bright citrus notes will enhance the meat through each bite.

Malvasia Bianca

A native grape to the Mediterranean region, the Malvasia bianca grape has found a strong footing in cooler appellations of California where the perfume scents of jasmine, lychee, and grapefruit shine through in the resulting wines. Although vinified in a med-dry/dry style of white wine, the luscious fruit notes in this wine will translate to a sweetness on the palate pleasing all types of wine enthusiasts looking for a refreshing sip during the hot summer months. Furuya suggests the 2013 Birichino Monterey Malvasia Bianca ($18 per bottle; vinesse.com), which hails from the cool Monterey appellation of California. On attack, the palate is blessed with an array of delicious tropical fruits, which finishes with a lemony zest that serves to refresh the palate and liven up tastebuds. This is a perfect myhawaiitraveler.com

pairing for pan-seared scallops served with a brown butter sauce—the delicate body of this wine won’t overwhelm the fragile scallops and the brightness from the lemon notes will help cut the buttery sauce of this dish. Another playful pairing for this wine would be a sweet pizza topped with gorgonzola cheese, candied walnuts, and slices of poached pears. When thinking of an interesting addition to your summer table, opt for this sweet dish and allow the wine to mix and mingle with the flavors of a sweet pizza.

Grüner Veltliner

This dry wine from Austria has been gathering a cult following over recent years from those who are drawn to its interesting combination of flavors paired against a sturdy vein of acidity making it a wonderful wine to pair with a variety of foods. Traditional Grüner Veltliner features notes of lemon, lime, grapefruit and a telling aroma of green peppers, tarragon, and ginger which makes for an interesting combination of tropical sweet and savory flavors. The 2014 Allram Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner Erste Lage Kamptal ($25 per bottle; klwines.com) is one of note with its blend of bright citrus and white pepper dancing upon a near weightless body. With a clean and sparkling finish, the food-friendliness of this wine makes it an easy pair with dishes varying from veal schnitzel to lightly spiced Asian dishes. Another stellar Grüner Veltliner to try is the 2015 Tatomer “Meeresboden” Santa Barbara County Grüner Veltliner ($27 per bottle; klwines.com) which is a masterful blend of several small plantings of Grüner Veltliner across the winery’s vineyards. This orchestra of flavors features stone fruits and yellow citrus when young that develops to silky, honey notes with age. With so many options of chilled wine available, finding one that suits your taste and budget is an easy task sure to keep you cool and calm as the temperature continues to rise. So sit back, relax and enjoy a sip of summer. 77

LŪ‘AU A TRUE HAWAIIAN CELEBRATION

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

From the beginning, gathering for a feast was a party not to be missed.

ultural identity is often defined by the concept of tradition. Different traditions build social identities and it’s these social identities that act as the building blocks for individual communities. What language we speak, what foods we eat, and the laws we abide by are all determined through patterns that are developed through lifelong practices of traditional values. What is deemed as appropriate in one culture may be considered taboo in another. How many restaurants in America do you know of that prepare fried cockroaches with a side of deep fried scorpion? Yet in Thailand these “delicacies” are served everywhere. As the world progresses, some cultural traditions tend to morph and often times may disappear all together. Indigenous cultures seem to be the ones that are most affected by worldly change. Over the years, Hawai‘i has managed to somewhat escape cultural extinction by sharing its island traditions with visitors from across the globe. One of the most recognized Hawaiian traditions is a celebration called lüÿau. Contrary to popular belief, the ancient definition of “‘lüÿau” does not mean feast and it wasn’t until approximately 1856 that the Hawaiians began to refer to myhawaiitraveler.com

these gatherings as lüÿau. Originally, these banquets were called ‘aha‘aina (gathering for a feast) or päÿina (party). Lüÿau is the actual name of the tender leaves of the taro plant. When these leaves are cooked with a protein such as chicken or squid, then baked in coconut milk, the dish is also called lü‘au. The popularity of this dish at these gatherings gave rise to the “lüÿau” reference. Historically speaking, Hawaiians held feasts to mark special occasions such as the birth of a child, the return of a warrior from battle or an abundant harvest. At these feasts, they would honor the gods that were responsible for their prosperity and good luck. Prior to 1819 it was kapu (forbidden) for men and women to dine together; additionally, certain foods were considered kapu for commoners and women of all ranks. The kapu belief system was abolished when King Kamehameha II and his wife Ka‘ahumanu sat down with the people and enjoyed a meal together. Traditionally, the food was set up and served on the ground. Large mats, woven from the dried leaves of the lauhala tree, were rolled out and decorated with native bouquets made of ferns, flowers and leaves. Ti leaves were 79

depth is usually the same, about five feet. When the pit has been dug out, it is filled with a hard wood that is then set on fire. Once the fire reaches a nice burn, porous volcanic rocks are added over it. While the rocks begin to heat up the pig is salted inside and out with Hawaiian salt. When the rocks are hot enough, some are placed in the cavity of the pig while the ones left in the pit are covered with banana leaves. The pig is placed on top of the leaves and then more leaves are used to cover the whole pig. Finally, the entire pit is covered with wet burlap sacks and the pig is left to steam. Usually a whole pig, averaging 200 pounds, takes about 12 hours to cook, which is why it’s usually prepared a day in advance. This slow cook method called kälua yields succulently moist meat that just falls right off the bone. Other traditional foods such as poke (marinated raw fish), lomilomi salmon (a salad of salmon mixed with tomatoes and onions), chicken long rice (boiled bean noodles served with pieces of chicken), laulau (steamed or baked packages of ti or banana leaves containing pork, fish, beef, taro, etc.), haupia (coconut custard), poi, and ‘opihi (limpet) usually accompany the pig and are freshly prepared early that morning. Once the food is done, it’s time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. For the people who live in the Hawaiian Islands, a lüÿau is a time for friends and family to gather and to celebrate their cultures through the sharing of food. Today’s lüÿau incorporates favorite island traditions, ancient storytelling, hula and authentic food, as well as modernday amenities—and, for many visitors, it ends up being the highlight of their entire trip. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) HTJ; (RIGHT) ISLAND BREEZE

cleaned and used as plates that held dry food like sweet potatoes, roasted meat, dried fish and salt. Poi (pounded taro root mixed with water) was served in wooden bowls that were sometimes placed in sand to keep them from tipping over. Attendees would use their hands to eat everything, including the poi. Over the years, the lüÿau has been influenced by the various cultures that now call Hawai‘i home. Ti leaves have been replaced with plates; coconut cake has been added to the menu; and people now use utensils to eat with instead of their hands. Even with all this change, the overall idea remains the same—good times, decadent food and nice company. Two popular occasions still celebrated with a lüÿau are a high school graduation and a baby’s first birthday. Usually a lüÿau starts in the evening and continues throughout the night. As enjoyable as the celebration is, the preparation is an event in itself. Depending on the size of the party, event preparations could start up to a week in advance. Being that Hawai‘i is an intimate habitat, it’s not surprising to see 300 “cousins” at one of these backyard celebrations. In most cases, every family member is assigned a dish and although everyone’s dish is equally important, the culinary masterpiece of any lüÿau is, of course, the pig. It all starts with a clean pig, devoid of hair, that has been hung and drained over night. Next, someone has to dig the pit. In Hawai‘i, many families still cook the pig in an imu (underground oven). Preparing this imu is an art form that is traditionally passed on from generation to generation. The width of the imu is determined by the size of the pig, but the

myhawaiitraveler.com

GO EXOTIC

SKIP THE EVERYDAY APPLES AND ORANGES AND OPT FOR THE LOCAL TROPICAL FRUITS WORDS BEN SARVER

hether you spend your days in Hawaiÿi working hard or playing hard, what could be a better way to enjoy the fruits of your labor than to actually enjoy some fresh local fruit? Sweet and delicious produce is a staple of any tropical paradise and Hawaiÿi is no exception. The islands are a veritable fruit salad of savory delights with tastes and flavors to please any palate. Though native fruit species are rare, the fertile volcanic soil and the exceptional climate have allowed numerous fruiting plants to propagate. They come in every color, shape, and size you can imagine, and some you probably can’t. So, how will you know what’s good to eat and how you should eat the different fruits found here? This handy guide to local exotic fruits can help you get familiar before heading out to the numerous farmers markets or when ordering menu items featuring these local gems.

Liliko‘i

Lilikoÿi (Passiﬂora edulis) is a local favorite known elsewhere as passion fruit. Though originally native to South America, it has taken on an almost iconic status in Hawaiian cuisine. The round/ovular fruit actually comes from a vine and starts as a stunning flower and can be found growing wild throughout the islands or bought at a local farmers market. It comes in both yellow and purple varieties, but the yellow is much more common here. Lilikoÿi is often enjoyed in margaritas and other cocktails, as well as in butters, jams, and sauces. You can also get fresh lilikoÿi juice or eat them raw or put them in ice cube trays and freeze to use in a variety of ways. A trip to any grocery store will uncover countless products flavored or made from this tart tasting fruit. To enjoy this treat raw, you must 82

crack open the rind where you will find the succulent edible seeds and the somewhat sour orange colored juice. You can scoop them out with a spoon if you want, but it’s more fun to slurp it all up.

Guava

Similar in size and shape to lilikoÿi, the guava (Psidium guajava) is the most common fruit tree found in the Hawaiian Islands. Unfortunately, it is extremely invasive without the predators that keep it in check in its native Brazil. Guava spreads quickly and grows so thick that it overwhelms many endemic species. The strawberry guava, introduced in 1825, is the most common of several types of guava that grow in Hawaiÿi. The ovular fruit ranges in color from green to yellow to a reddish pink. Conservation efforts are being utilized in order to minimize the effect of the guava on local rainforests. Nonetheless, the sweet and tangy fruit and the products made from it are readily available in grocery stores and markets. Many people in Hawaiÿi eat the fruit with soy sauce and vinegar, while others simply enjoy it raw. It can be cooked, turned into jams or jellies, or you can cool off with a refreshing glass of guava nectar on a hot day. Stick with guavas that are firm and juicy, and feel free to eat the Vitamin C-rich skin along with the sweet flesh.

Rambutan

It is difficult to find a more delectable or strange-looking fruit than the rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum). This exotic gem is native to Malaysia and Southeast Asia and has really only become commercially productive in Hawaiÿi in the last 40 years. Its name means “hairy” in Malay and it has an incredibly distinctive and even intimidating look BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

to it. It is covered in dozens of soft and pliable spines and turns a fiery red when ripe. Rambutans are often given for celebrations and have a refreshingly sweet, mildly citric flavor reminiscent of grapes. They are sometimes called “hula berries” in Hawaiÿi since peeling off the top half of the skin leaves the lower half resembling a hula skirt. You can buy rambutans at most farmers or Asian markets in bunches and they are best enjoyed fresh. To consume the small egg-shaped fruit, you must remove the spiny skin to reveal the white fleshy insides. Avoid the seed in the center, which is mildly poisonous when consumed raw.

Noni

If someone told you to try a fruit that smelled like rotten cheese and tasted even worse, chances are you would laugh in their face, right? But what if that fetid produce could provide amazing health benefits for you? That is exactly the tradeoff you get with the historically significant noni (Morinda citrifolia). The noni fruit, or Indian mulberry, was one of the original “canoe plants” brought by the first Polynesian settlers of Hawaiÿi on their voyages across the Pacific. It may taste awful, but it has incredible nutritional value and its medicinal uses by ancient Hawaiians are well documented. It was used to treat practically every ailment, internally and topically, as well as for dyeing cloth and as famine food. Studies are ongoing, but many scientists believe that the fruit stimulates our immune systems, aiding the body in fighting detrimental diseases like cancer or simpler maladies like digestive issues. The plant is extremely resilient and can be found in numerous habitats throughout the Hawaiian Islands from tidal pools to lava fields. Noni are shaped like bumpy ovals and ripen from green to translucent white in color. The pulpy insides are edible, but you will probably want to stick with the juice or powders that are commercially produced and sold in most stores.

Mangosteen

If you were raised in North America or Europe, than chances are you have yet to enjoy the rich opulence of the “Queen of Fruit.” The mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana) tastes and looks nothing like a mango, and is known to have a completely unique flavor with descriptions ranging from sweet strawberries, to tangy peaches, to vanilla ice cream. It is notoriously difficult to grow and, thanks to its penchant for carrying fruit flies, it was banned from importation to the U.S. until 2007. Its exoticism is legendary and it is said that Queen Victoria of England offered a knighthood to anyone who could deliver one to her. Hawaiÿi is one of the few places in the U.S. (along with Puerto Rico) that mangosteen can be grown and has caught on in recent years like a gold rush. The round, tennis ball sized fruit ripens from green to a dark purple. In order to partake in its decadent fragrance and flavor, you must crack open the firm rind to reveal several white segments of edible fruit on the inside. Be careful, as some of these segments will contain inedible pits. This tropical delight is not the easiest fruit to find, but try the local farmers markets as well as specialty Asian markets. The payoff will be worth the work to find it.

more tropical fruits

This is only a small sampling of the exotic natural delicacies that await your discovery in Hawaiÿi. Other easily found local favorites include the apple banana, a smaller and sweeter variety of banana that is practically a dessert food, as well as papaya and starfruit. Look for papaya that are turning from green to yellow and aren’t too mushy. Try slicing it in half, scooping out the seeds, and then scooping out chunks of flesh with a spoon. Starfruit, a slightly sweet yellow fruit with a star-shaped crosssection, can be eaten raw with or without the skin depending on preference. Its consistency is not unlike an apple with similar seeds to avoid in the middle. Whatever your fruit preferences may be, take a trip to the farmers market while you are here and experiment with something new and different. If you prefer to seek out your produce in the wild, be sure to respect the ÿäina (land), and only take fruit if you know for sure you are on public land. Wash all fruit with fresh water and enjoy! myhawaiitraveler.com

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 84

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

EXPLORE OUR KONA AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Soar directly to the Kilauea Volcanic System to view the current activity, which may include cinder cones and spectacular fiery lava lakes. View the Lava Tree Forest and the waterfalls among the Wailuku River and Hilo Bay. A family-owned company, Safari Helicopters was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Navel Reserve and one of Hawai‘i’s most experienced pilots. Preston has, over the years, built his company and reputation on the sound principles of safety, professionalism and innovation-always striving to offer the latest in state-of-the-art equipment to assure passengers of an unsurpassable and unforgettable helicopter “safari.” Preston wants Safari passengers to fully enjoy their adventure, but he considers safety of the utmost importance. He holds to the axiom “there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots,” and he requires that all his Safari pilots adhere to the same high standards of professionalism that he personally carried out over the years. Visit online at safarihelicopters.com for a great discount or call (800) 326-3356.

LESS THAN ONE PERCENT OF THE WORLD’S POPULATION HAS EXPLORED 100 FEET BENEATH THE OCEAN. THIS GUY DOES IT ALL THE TIME. JOIN THE CLUB.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

atlantisadventures.com | ( 8 0 8 ) 3 2 7-1 4 4 1 | #atlantishawaii EX PLOR E OU R KON A

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 85

ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 86

the week (Reg. $26). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the

tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures

Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!

property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

Book your adventure today!

(808) 885-7883

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. myhawaiitraveler.com

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

LIFE IN THE

TROPICS COLORFUL CREATURES OF THE REEF WORDS ANDREW WALSH

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM; (BOTTOM RIGHT) BROCKEN INAGLORY; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ANDREW WALSH

have had the good fortune to spend hundreds of hours in the company of reef fish. Yet every time that I head out to the reef, I still get excited at each passing glimpse of a colorful Moorish idol, a brave damselfish protecting its coral head, or an illusive frogfish hiding in plain sight. Hawaiÿi’s coral reefs are teeming with over 500 varieties of radiant reef fish. Although their bright coloration and constant presence on the reefs make it easy to spot many species, there is a hidden world of strange behaviors, unique adaptations, and amazing transformation contained within every coral head and every reef fish. For the diver and snorkeler alike, this world is slowly revealed to those with keen observation skills and an ability to look beyond the beautiful colors and discover an even more amazing story. Hawaiian reef fish arrived from the Indo-Pacific region over millions of years. As Hawaiÿi is located outside the major ocean currents, such as the North Pacific Gyre, these fish began to evolve and adapt to the unique ecosystems in the extremely isolated island chain. This eventually led to a high number of reef fish (approximately 24%) that are considered endemic to Hawaiÿi—found nowhere else on the planet. For some species, such as the butterflyfish, the percentage is as high as 34%. Like most creatures in the waters surrounding the Hawaiian Islands, reef fish are completely dependent on the coral reefs they call home. Coral reefs are like big underwater cities where all citizens participate in an evolutionary democracy. Successfully procuring resource, competing for mates, and avoidance of alwaysactive predators are all part of a typical day. Like all cities, each member of the community plays an important role, and services and goods are traded between parties. myhawaiitraveler.com

One of the more important services that many reef fish provide is the consumption of algae constantly growing on the reef. Herbivorous reef fish, meaning “algae feeders,” ensure that the coral polyps creating the reef structure are not out-competed for space by the everexpanding algae. Without the coral polyps, the reef would cease to grow and function—and all of the species dependent on them would most likely perish. Many species of herbivorous reef fish are also known as “cleaner fish.” Just like your neighborhood car wash, these fish wait in specific locations for other reef creatures to stop by for a good scrub down. Picture green sea turtles pulling up and hovering as the many species of cleaner fish rise from the reef and eat algae, dead skin, and even parasites off their bodies. Some examples of this are the many turtle and manta ray “cleaning stations” out on the reefs. Any diver or snorkeler who spends a lot of time in the waters off Hawaiÿi can tell you just where to go to find a manta ray with a cleaner wrasse deep in its gill-rakers or a turtle surrounded by yellow tang polishing its shell. Some cleaner wrasse have a big yellow or white stripe on their sides identifying their purpose, thus many creatures such as the menacing moray eels, who normally hunt small fish, happily open their mouths and let the wrasse safely chomp away. Even a diver who opens his or her mouth and patiently waits near a cleaning station can expect to have a few cleaner wrasses stop in for a good scrub of their gums. This is, of course, not recommended as you or the wrasse might get more than you bargained for. The wrasse doesn’t know you need to breathe, and they are not accustomed to the bacteria in your mouth. Any wrasse venturing deep in an eel’s razor sharp grimace will tell 89

you, the specific coloration of reef fish is no accident. Over time the various patterns and displays of bright yellow, blue, green, and red have evolved to match the specific behaviors of each fish. For example, the hawkfish is brightly camouflaged in orange, white, and light red to cleverly match the coral heads where it lies in wait to ambush its prey. So confident are hawkfish in their disguise, a diver can swim inches up to them before they will reluctantly dart into the safety of the reef. Other reef fish, rather than camouflaging themselves with the reef, school together. Convict tangs use their bright yellow bodies with six vertical black bars from head to tail to confuse predators much like a herd of zebras might confuse a lion. They have even adapted their schooling behavior as a means of ganging up on territorial reef fish, such as damselfish, that often guard a prized piece of coral head containing a bountiful garden of algae. The three-inch damselfish male will “attack” any intruders, including unsuspecting divers or snorkelers, who wander too close to his harem of females and prized real estate. Opportunistic reef fish like convicts use distraction as an advantage to swoop in and plunder the damselfish’s garden. 90

However, not all reef fish prefer schooling. Some, like butterflyfish, mate for life with a single partner. Often, if one of the butterflyfish pair should die, the other will soon follow. These pairs, such as the Four-eyed butterflyfish, can be seen faithfully following each other around the reef relying on distinct eye marks on their tails to confuse predators. Also, their thin disk shape allows them to easily slip in and out of tight hiding places within the reef. The amazing array of behavioral and physical adaptations that reef fish have developed to survive out on the reef is truly impressive. Although many tricks such as coloration markings work during the day, as all reef fish see in color, when the sun goes down the reef transforms entirely. For the vibrantly colored parrotfish, nighttime survival is simply a matter of building a slimy cocoon. As you scan your light over the reef flat at night, it is not uncommon to find a sleeping parrotfish covered in a thin translucent cocoon of saliva that it excreted from its mouth. Entombing its scent, the parrotfish cleverly tricks its predators, such as the whitetip reef shark or green moray eel, by robbing them of one of their most effective senses. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Many of the fascinating adaptations of reef fish have evolved in acquiescence to the predator-prey relationship. One of the more remarkable and extreme defenses is found in the generally mellow porcupinefish. Despite having enchanting iridescent eyes that seem to change color and draw you toward them, the reclusive porcupinefish have a series of lethal defense mechanisms. Once threatened, they can expand to three times their size by filling their bodies with seawater. As the name suggests, large spines surrounding their entire body also stand upright in defense. The misguided predator who tries to swallow a porcupinefish will choke and die on a self-inflating basketball surrounded by razor sharp three-inch spines. For some persistent predators, even this is not enough of a deterrent, so the porcupinefish has one more defense it can deliver from beyond the grave. Contained within the various tissues and organs of porcupinefish and pufferfish is a highly lethal neurotoxin called tetrodotoxin. Any predator that ingests one of these fish will most likely get sick from the excreted neurotoxin and often die. Although interestingly, the tiger shark, know as “the garbage can of the sea” for its propensity to eat anything, will eat porcupinefish and pufferfish without problems. Which is really just one more reason not to mess with tigers! In Japan, the delicacy fugu is served by highly trained, certified chefs who prepare the flesh of the pufferfish as a meal to adventurous patrons. The trick is to get enough of the toxin in the meal so as to create a sense of numbness, tingling, and euphoria among the diner, but not too much that it kills them. Even so, each year deaths from improperly prepared fugu are reported. Tetrodotoxin is one of the most toxic substances known to humans, it has no known treatment to counteract it once ingested, and it can be absorbed by simply handling a pufferfish. Although they have developed vigorous defenses and intricate adaptations, reef fish have shown themselves to be quite vulnerable to their most cunning adversary— people. Since 1900, general fish abundance in Hawaiÿi has declined by 75%, and recent studies have found that 75% of the reef fish left in Hawaiian waters are considered in critical condition or heavily depleted. Overfishing, pollution, invasive species, coastal development, the aquarium trade, and direct human contact have all taken a toll on this valuable living resource. Many islanders rely on subsistence fishing to feed their families. The tourist industry, Hawaiÿi’s largest source of revenue, brings in hundreds of million of dollars annually and is heavily reliant on the aesthetic beauty, productivity, and health of coral reef communities. With both coral reefs and reef fish suffering a huge impact from shortsighted management and use, Hawaiÿi stands to lose one of its most culturally significant and economically important resources. Can you imagine Hawaiÿi without tropical reef fish? If you’re like me, and agree with Winnie the Pooh who wisely proclaimed, “There’s just something about fish,” we must be advocates for these incredible ocean-goers. Reef fish need you as much as you need them. The majority of the world’s population relies on protein from the sea. Find out if the seafood meal you are contemplating came from a population of overexploited species and whether it was caught using sustainable methods. Be a steward when you are out on the reef and subscribe to the principles I first learned in diving: “Take only pictures, waste only time, and leave nothing but your bubbles.” Try and avoid stepping on the corals and ask your tour operator what steps they take to limit their impact on the reef ecosystem. Learn about the costs associated with our lifestyles and try to find a way, however small, to do your part, such as using cloth instead of plastic bags or turning your lights off when you don’t need them on. Yes, that can actually help reef fish a whole bunch while saving you some bucks. For all of the beauty, intrigue, and excitement found on the reef, there is nothing more beautiful than two of nature’s creations living in balance. Surely if the fish have found a way, so can we. myhawaiitraveler.com

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty. 92

Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY (THIS PAGE - ALL); KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

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The Great Escape HIKE THE BACKCOUNTRY TO A PRISTINE BEACH AT HALAPÄ&#x2019; WORDS PETER A. THOENE IMAGES EMERY GARCIA

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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ucked away on the rather inaccessible southeastern coastline of Hawaiÿi is a dreamy desert oasis called Halapë. This coconut tree-lined retreat is not easy to get to. Soft sand and saltwater lagoons sit surrounded by an arid desert, miles away from any pavement. For those willing to put in the sweat, footsteps, and effort, Halapë serves as a secluded retreat, where time itself can slow down to a grinding, and gratifying halt. Halapë is a campsite in Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park. Before beginning your adventure you must first check in at the park’s Backcountry Office. Here, the rangers will issue a permit, collect payment, and give advice for the trip. In 1975, an earthquakes and a tsunami famously rocked Halapë so the rangers want to make sure you know what to do in case of an emergency. At the office, it is also important to clean your boots with rubbing alcohol and brushes, as to not further the spread of ROD (rapid ÿöhiÿa death), a fungus that recently and rather mysteriously is plaguing the endemic trees unique to Hawaiÿi. It’s possible to see the beautiful ÿöhiÿa lehua trees, with their red blossoms exploding like fireworks, on any of the three trails that lead to Halapë. The most common route, Mau Loa o Mauna Ulu (Keauhou Trail), starts at 2,680 feet and descends down the steep pali (cliff) about 8.4 miles to the ocean. The next option is Hilina Pali Trail. This trail is a bit shorter, at 8 miles, and starts at a lower elevation, but the trail is steeper. You can pick up this trailhead on Hilina Pali Overlook, about 9 miles down Hilina Pali Road. The last option is the longest, but the flattest and much easier on the knees. The 11.3-mile Puna Coast Trail starts at Puÿu Loa Petroglyphs turnoff at the bottom of Chain of Craters Road. Whichever trail you choose, the hike will be hot and dry, so plenty of water is mandatory. The recommended amount is 3-4 liters per day. Allow yourself at least three days for this adventure. One day to hike in, one day to hike out, and one day to forget what day it is completely. On the morning two friends and I started our hike, the Saturday sky was mercifully overcast. We decided to park our car at the Puÿu Loa Petroglyphs turnoff and hitchhike back up to the Mau Loa o Mauna Ulu turnoff, for the Keauhou Trail. This way,

we could finish our getaway along the flat Puna Coast Trail. At the end of our weary trip, our silver Honda would be waiting for us, shining like a beacon with the promise of a fresh change of clothes. The Keauhou Trail to Halapë starts out on some fresh pähoehoe (smoother, ropy basaltic lava) and weaves through native ÿöhiÿa trees and shrubs. In order to discern the trail, since the lava really hasn’t disintegrated into dirt yet, you must look for the stacks of rocks called ahu (stone cairns). Threading your way to each ahu takes careful concentration on the crumbly black lava, especially when the smooth pähoehoe transitions into the more jagged ÿaÿä lava. Sturdy boots with thick soles and hiking poles are a great idea to take pressure off your knees and ankles during the 2,680-foot descent. After about four hours of hiking, coconut fronds start to materialize in the distance, promising well-deserved shade. These fronds, tucked on the edge of the emerald blue Pacific, line the picturesque campsite that is Halapë. Halapë is tucked at the base of Puÿu Kapukapu (the regal hill), a structure that flowed with molten lava most likely tens of thousands of years ago. At the base of this ancient cliff hosts enough campsites to accommodate the 16 hikers allowed by the park. When we finally arrived at Halapë, our boots were the first things kicked off. We picked a nice sandy area, sheltered under the native milo and early Polynesian-introduced niu (coconut) trees. Be sure to stay away from areas with posted “No Camping” signs, as the endangered hawksbill sea turtles and threatened green sea turtles can sometimes nest here. The facilities near the campsites are simple—a water catchment, a cooking shelter, and a composting toilet—but even the view from the open-air bathroom is spectacular. Check the water levels in the tank with the rangers before your hike. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to pack less water. The water in the tank is drinkable only after filtering, treating, or boiling it. After setting up camp and watching the sunset, we cooked our dinner and slept comfortably to the sounds of crashing waves, leaving exploration until the next day. The morning of our first full day in Halapë, craving even more BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

seclusion, we headed south. Follow the stacks of white coral rocks for about half a mile and you’ll come to an area called Kumu Niu. This sandy lagoon boasts fantastic snorkeling. Protected from the large open ocean swells, intricate and delicate coral is able to thrive. Be sure to pack at least a mask to glimpse these alien-like underwater features. Before Kumu Niu, just a bit inland, there is a large ground crack. Scamper amongst the boulders and you’ll find crystal blue brackish water pool where salty ocean water seeps into fresh ground water in a refreshing phenomenon called a Ghyben–Herzberg lens. Rinse off all sunscreen and oils before you plunge in. The chemicals can easily destroy this delicately balanced anchialine ecosystem. Nap. Read. Watch the clouds drift by and the shadows elongate. As the sun sets on a relaxing day, you don’t have to look up to see the stars, just look out towards the horizon. Here, with virtually no light pollution, the night sky feels three-dimensional. The next day, the last of our all-too-brief holiday, we assembled in the early dawn hours for our 11.3-mile hike back to the car. The Puna Coast Trail hike isn’t technical, just lengthy. A mixture of lava fields, crashing waves, and archaeological sites kept us interested. Reaching our car and seeing other human beings buzzing around even after just a short time of isolation was a bit shocking. Driving down the highway back to civilization had me already daydreaming— pondering the next time I would be able to escape to this sanctuary to forget about time completely. Be Prepared or Before You Go •Make sure you are well equipped for this backpacking adventure including enough water and food, flashlight, sunscreen, sunglasses, first aid kit, overnight gear and trail map. Wear appropriate footwear and clothing. •Check weather and trail conditions. Intense sunlight, winds, humidity and high temperatures can lead to dehydration, heat exhaustion or stroke. Be prepared for cold weather, winds, and driving rain any time of the year. •Make sure you hydrate adequately and pace yourself. There are no trees or shelters to offer respite from the sun along the various trails. •It is important to stay on the trails (marked by stone cairns), as there are numerous earth cracks, thin crusts and lava tubes. Trails may be steep, uneven and rocky—watch your footing. •Swimming is dangerous in the open ocean. There are a few sheltered swimming sites along the coast. Beware of rough seas, high surf, and strong, unpredictable currents—always check conditions prior to entry. •Help protect the rare plants and animals that live in the brackish ponds and tidepools by rinsing off all soap and sunscreen prior to entrance. Use eco-friendly sunscreen and apply 15 minutes prior to ocean entry. •Obey all fishing regulations. Fishing along the coastline from the park’s eastern boundary to point midway between Keauhou and Halapë is restricted to native Hawaiian residents of the Kalapana area. •Practice the Leave No Trace ethics when camping and hiking. •Campers may stay a maximum of three nights per site with a total of 16 hikers allowed per night at Halapë. All overnight backcountry hiking and camping requires a permit. Please register at the Backcountry Office at the Visitor Emergency Operations Center. The earliest you can obtain a permit is the day prior to your hike. Reservations or permits are not available more than 24 hours in advance. For more information, visit nps.gov/havo/planyourvisit/hike_halape.htm or call the Backcountry Office between 8am and 4pm at (808) 985-6178. myhawaiitraveler.com

DO NOT DISTURB A LITTLE QUIET GOES A LONG WAY WORDS ANDREW WALSH

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

y first interaction with a wild dolphin happened many years ago in the Turks and Caicos Islands. I had just begun to entertain the idea of becoming a marine scientist and my research work there provided me with a great excuse to spend time in the ocean, a place I felt both at home and alive. Eventually, I would realize how important and endangered many of the ocean’s creatures have become, but on my first dolphin encounter, all I could think about was how lucky I was to be in the right place at the right time to...well...do something stupid! A friendly Atlantic bottlenose dolphin decided to trail our 20-ft Carolina Skiff, which we had commandeered after completing our research activities that day and rechristened into our wakeboarding flagship. As I unstrapped the board to call it a day, an unfamiliar large grey mass hurtled toward me through the water column. Needless to say, when your head is only inches above the water and your floating in the open ocean, any large grey finned mass can be somewhat disconcerting. Fortunately for me, this big guy just wanted to investigate! Without thinking, I signaled my buddy Luke to drop the boat into gear and slowly drag me as I held onto the towrope. Skimming across the surface and intermittently “manta diving”— pointing my head down so I dove, then up, to rise—I began an unforgettable watery dance with my new mammalian friend. He went left, so I swung right. As I swung right, he darted below me and up on the other side. Up and down, right and left, and on and on we went. I’m not sure who was having a better time, but clearly we both seemed cheerfully lost playing with such a strange new creature. As my arms grew tired, I leveled out at the surface and straightened my course. With little effort, my peppy friend simply finned up next to me and tucked in close near my right side. As we pulled through the water, my hand unwittingly reached out and gently landed on his hydrodynamic forehead and ran down the length of his silk-like back. I was in a total state of awe, the kind of feeling that makes you believe there is magic to be found out in the world. He looked straight into my eyes, shook his body, and swam away.

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solitude of the night, spinners hunt in packs like wolves. But unlike wolves, they communicate with frequency modulated whistles and burst pulses that convey an extraordinary amount of information both between individuals and in reference to the environment around them. These sounds, which are both within the audible range of humans and in the ultrasonic spectrum, act like a type of sonar allowing the dolphins to “see” what is happening around them. To catch prey, they work as a group encircling a school of fish, swimming at high speeds around them, slowly drawing the circle tighter and tighter until their prey becomes trapped in a frantic bait ball. Once the pod has tightened the noose around the confused fish, they take turns, in pairs or individually, breaking off from the circle and driving full force through the middle of the bait ball. Each dolphin spends time both corralling and catching dinner. Make no mistake—that grin we often associate with dolphins is not the smile of a friendly creature, but rather a static jawline filled with razor sharp teeth attached to 150 pounds of a deadly, cunning hunter. They are one of the most efficient hunters in all the oceans, capable of simple mathematics, social organization, and highly sophisticated communication among their brethren. After a long night hunting, the dolphins retreat to Hawaiÿi’s peaceful, protected bays and coastline for a well-earned rest during the day. This critical recovery period will replenish their strength and alertness necessary to sustain them in the next evening’s hunt or in retreat should they be hunted themselves by oceanic sharks or predatory whales. However, dolphins can’t just crash out on a comfy pillow-top mattress. They must continue moving to keep warm and constantly return to the surface for air, not to mention keeping an eye on their unrelenting predators. Amazingly, they have developed a very unique adaptation, which allows them to literally sleep with one eye open. Dolphins can turn BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (ABOVE, RIGHT/OPPOSITE, LEFT) HTA/TOR JOHNSON

Unforgettable and incredible? Yes! Stupid and careless? You betcha! Now, if you are wondering why, let’s talk a little bit about dolphins. Certainly, we all know the acrobatic spinner dolphins that we often see here on the Big Island. If ever there was a playful dolphin we would all want to jump in and swim with, these would certainly seem like that kind…right? Well, that might not be the best idea. Like all dolphin species, spinners are highly social, intelligent creatures trying to survive a daily battle for life in an unforgiving and heavily impacted ocean environment. And, yes, unfortunately it’s you and I who have been doing the “impacting”—a fact that has put some populations of spinner dolphins on the Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Spinner dolphins in many parts of the world are heavily affected by the fishing industry, as they are very susceptible to being caught in purse-seine nets from tuna fishing. As fisherman often follow pods of hundreds or thousands of spinners to locate tuna, the dolphins inevitably get caught and are discarded as bycatch. It is thought that up to half of all eastern spinner dolphins have been killed from these activities. Additionally, spinner dolphins are very sensitive to DDT and PCB, toxic chemicals that although banned from use for over 30 years, are still poisoning dolphins and humans alike. In Hawaiÿi, the National Ocean & Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) has identified human interactions with spinner dolphins as the greatest threat facing their conservation status. Although many groups of spinner dolphins live and feed primarily in the open ocean, Hawaiian spinners are coastal dolphins that feed at night and rest during the day in the protected bays and sheltered coastal areas of the Islands—a behavior most beach and water enthusiasts can relate to. Each evening, pods of spinners set out into the watery depths surrounding the Islands. Diving as much as 1,000-ft below the black

half their brain off for rest while the other half remains mildly alert and awake. The spinner dolphins swim up and down in a “Zen-like” state cycling each hemisphere of the brain on and off until they attain the required rest needed. It is commonly thought that the sandy shallow bays surrounding the Hawaiian Islands facilitate this by providing a relatively safe enclosed area with a bottom contour that makes spotting predators easy. Enter the silly human getting towed behind the boat, petting the dolphin! As magical as my experience may have been, what was it really for the dolphin? A precious half hour of energy he desperately needed to find a mate, rest, hunt, care for young, or avoid a predator. He gave me an incredible experience I will cherish forever, but all I did was take something from him. So in return, I now offer the wisdom I should have heeded many years ago: dolphin and human interactions are only beneficial for people, as the dolphin is left less prepared to survive in a wilderness that gives them no second chances and offers no safety nets. Humans instinctually respond to dolphins because buried deep in the recesses of our mammalian genes, the shared flame of an intelligent sentient being burns bright within us both. But what draws us to interact, even more so, is the innate curiosity we both share about the world around us. However, our curiosity and fascination, no matter how strong in the moment, do not absolve responsibility in the long term. Knowing that these incredible ocean masters need to rest during the day, we must let sleeping dolphins lie. It is as much a right as a responsibility to malama kai (care for) the ocean bounty from which we are given and take so much. Of course, that’s not to say we can’t appreciate these creatures when they come to us. Often, they will ride the bow wake of a passing boat allowing visitors a glimpse into their amazing abilities and agility. Many times while leading dives underwater off the myhawaiitraveler.com

Hawaiian coast, I would hear the distant calls of an approaching pod of spinners. As they grow louder and fill the waves with pitches and clicks, I signal my group towards the open ocean. With luck, the dolphins will swim by within sight; some may even come by to check us out. But we will not follow them or interrupt their daily rest. Just as I would not want to be woken out of a deep sleep, neither would I seek out nor disturb a creature I profess to respect and appreciate. Rather, it is reward enough that Mother Nature has smiled upon us and offered such a gift—a glimpse into the amazing world of dolphins.

Help Protect the Ambassadors of Aloha

Hawaiian spinner dolphins (nai‘a) are famous for its airborne acrobatic displays of spinning leaps offshore in Hawai‘i. It is believed dolphins were considered “ambassadors of aloha” by the Native Hawaiians and regarded to be an oceanic tribe with equal rights as human villagers. Dolphins are protected from harassment under the Marine Mammal Protection Act, as are all marine mammals. Harassment is defined by “any act of pursuit or annoyance which has the potential to disturb the dolphins in the wild by causing disruption of their behavioral patterns of migration, nursing, breeding, sheltering or resting.” Being in the water when dolphins are nearby is allowable. NOAA’s viewing guidelines recommend limiting your time observing spinner dolphins to half-hour and to keep a safe distance. Spinner dolphins should not be encircled or trapped between boats or shore and if approached by spinners, then the engine should be in neutral to allow the animal to pass. Boat movement should be from the rear of the animal. Report harassment to NOAA Fisheries Enforcement Hotline 1-800-853-1964 or Hawai‘i State Division of Conservation and Resource Enforcement (808) 643-DLNR. 101

In honor of King Kamehameha Day each June, the Kona

In the Name of the King WORDS & IMAGES KAREN ANDERSON

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community gathers to witness one of the great photo opportunities of the year—the annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Historic Kailua Village. This year’s event travels along Aliÿi Drive past Huliheÿe Palace, and onward past Kamakahonu, the first capital of the Kingdom of Hawaiÿi established by Kamehameha I in 1810. In addition to honoring the great king, Kona’s annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade shines the spotlight on the area’s ranching history. The highlight of the parade is surely the elegant and regal päÿü equestrian units adorned in the flowers, colors, and fabrics of their respective islands and represented by Kona’s ranching community. A type of culotte, the päÿü skirt is made of a single piece of fabric wrapped around the rider in such a way as to flow regally over the stirrups. Since the early 1900s, päÿü riders have brought a quintessential Hawaiian style to floral parades across the state. With the päÿü queen and her unit leading the way, each princess presides over her own unit representing one of the eight Hawaiian Islands. The princesses are accompanied by attendants, outriders and a page, and all are bedecked in the flowers and colors associated with the island they are representing. When riding for the Island of Länaÿi, for example, the unit will showcase lei made of the orange kaunaÿoa (a native dodder). For Maui, it’s the pink lokelani rose; for Oÿahu, the yellow ÿilima, and so forth. Barbara Nobriga is a fourth-generation rancher at Mahealani Ranch near Kainaliu. She has participated in päÿü parades in Hawaiÿi since the 1950s, and has single-handedly kept the päÿü equestrian tradition at the forefront in Kona for many years, serving as chairman of the Kona Parade Committee that works hard all year long in preparation for the big event. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Previous generations of her family were among the very first päÿü riders in the state. A staunch traditionalist, Barbara believes in teaching the rising generation the authentic tradition of päÿü. “Simplicity is elegance,” she said. “Good horsemanship should be the most important consideration. The princess should be able to work the crowd safely while exhibiting aloha and personality. We appreciate the type of rider who upholds the tradition and knows the protocol of päÿü.” The history of the päÿü dates back to the arrival of the first horses to the Hawaiian Islands in 1803. Women in Hawaiÿi quickly became accomplished riders, utilizing the päÿü skirt for practical purposes to keep their fancy garments from getting soiled as they rode to a party or gathering at a neighboring ranch. The päÿü is held in place with kukui nuts twisted inside the fabric and tucked into the waistband for a secure fit. There are different methods for wrapping, depending on family tradition. Some start from front to back and use just a few kukui nuts to hold the skirt in place, while others gather the fabric from the back, using up to eight kukui nuts. Preparing for parade day involves intense work for each unit, whether gathering natural materials from the mountains and makai (sea), sewing garments, creating banners, prepping the horses, practicing equestrian skills, making lei or learning päÿü wrapping techniques. Rancher DeeDee Keakealani-Bertelmann of Puÿuanahulu says päÿü traditions that originally derived from Hawaiÿi’s ranching families might one day be lost if not cultivated. “The paniolo (cowboy) culture is our culture,” she said. “My father taught me how to wrap päÿü. It is important for me to teach others because our children will be the ones to carry out the tradition in the future.” Every April or May prior to the parade, Barbara, DeeDee and their fellow “ranching kumu (teacher)” instruct a päÿü workshop to parade myhawaiitraveler.com

participants at Kona Historical Society. Barbara also holds skirtwrapping sessions at her ranch. Barbara’s ranch is an active cattle ranch. The history dates back to the arrival of the first cattle to the Hawaiian Islands in 1793. This is where King Kamehameha I constructed a historic cattle pen, the Pa Nui, which encompasses 700 acres on the property. The enormous wall is 5-ft. wide and 9-ft. tall in some places and still stands today directly above Barbara’s house, and can easily be seen by horseback. Barbara’s house was built in 1904 adjacent to what was once the Mahealani Hotel, Kona’s first hotel, which was run by her grandmother. The original guest registry includes signatures of many dignitaries including Jack London and horsewoman/author Isabella Bird. A Paniolo Hall of Fame recipient, Barbara has always devoted herself to carrying forth the päÿü traditions within the community. “It’s our Hawaiian culture and we need to preserve it properly,” she said. “It’s important to perpetuate our traditions for future generations coming up.” The annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Historic Kailua Village honors the great aliÿi, King Kamehameha I, who established the first capital of the united Hawaiian Kingdom in Kailua-Kona at Kamakahonu on June 10th. This year’s parade theme is “Ho‘ohiwahiwa No Kamehameha,” translated, “Honoring Kamehameha.” Parade participants include regal päÿü riders on horseback, hula hälau, equestrian units, marching bands, horse-drawn carriages and more. After the parade, enjoy a hoÿolauleÿa (music and art festival) at Hulihe‘e Palace, including a free concert featuring Hawaiian recording artists. Then take time to visit the many shops, galleries and historic landmarks of Historic Kailua Village. For more information, visit KonaParade.org. 103

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SAND + SURF KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. 105

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106

available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA

swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo.

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

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Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107

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ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING (Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222. TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani 110

hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date. KOKUA KAILUA (Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or historickailuavillage.com. MAY DANCE OF THE BEES (May 6-7) - Dance of the Bees is an original multi-media dance show that examines the life and plight of bees. Director Angel Prince will collaborate with local beekeepers to create an artistic and educational show based on a topic that is both relevant, and urgent. More than one hundred students from the Kahilu Performing Arts Classes will appear in the show filled with various disciplines of dance. Price from $16 to $38. Call (808) 885-6868 or KahiluTheatre.org. ORCHID SHOW, PLANT & CRAFT SALE (May 12-13)- Annual Mothers Day Show & Sale from the Kona Orchid Society.at the event pavilion in the ‘Old Airport Park’ in Kailua- Free to public. See exotic orchid species and exciting new hybrids. Talk with vendors from all over the island. Many handmade craft items and fine arts from our island. Pottery, ceramics, real flower jewelry, nurturing gemstones and jewelry, anthurium flowers and plants, fine art, greeting cards, photography, cactus & succulent plants, dragon fruit plants, protea plants & flowers, air plants, herbs, tropical plants, fruit trees and more. Visit KonaOrchidSociety.org for more information.

ROBERT CAZIMERO (May 13) - Hawaiÿi’s most revered and loved kumu and singer, Robert Cazimero, returns to Kahilu Theatre to carry on with an unbroken 32-year-old tradition—celebrating May Day in Waimea. Robert’s elegant voice is so distinctive that whether he performs on piano or with his brother Roland as the Brothers Cazimero, he is instantly recognized and people are compelled to listen. Robert has been a part of close to 40 full album projects; many considered classics in the history of Hawaiian music. The popular success of the music he has made and participated in is recognized through dozens of awards, performances on the world’s most prestigious stages and the millions of albums that have been bought by people around the world. Tickets from $20 to $68. Call (808) 885-6868 or visit KahiluTheatre.org. 39TH ANNUAL VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK (May 13) - The public is invited to participate in the annual Visitor Industry Charity Walk and preserve this tradition of sharing and kökua. Anyone can participate! In fact, invite your family, friends, neighbors, clients, classmates, club members, and anyone who’s interested to join us for a morning of food, fun, fabulous local entertainment, and a little exercise to help Hawaiÿi’s local charities. And with all the great food and fun, the Charity Walk is the only one in Hawaiÿi where you can actually gain weight by raising money for a great cause. Location is Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa. Runners start at 6:45am. Walkers start at 7am. For more info, call Bambi at (808) 886-8128 or visit HawaiiLodging.org/charity-walk.html. JUNE 6TH ANNUAL BIG ISLAND JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL (June 1-4)- Mauna Kea Beach Hotel presents a weekend of jazz. The series of concerts include performances by award-winning artists and legends including Grammy Award Winners Russell Malone, Eric Marienthal, Wayne Toups, The Iguanas and Jazz Hall of Fame Legend Bobby Watson and more. For tickets go to BigIslandJazzAndBluesFestival.com. IRONMAN 70.3 HAWAI‘I (June 3) - Nicknamed Honu, in honor of the Hawaiian green sea turtle, the Ironman 70.3 Hawaiÿi offers competitors a beautiful venue. It starts with an open-ocean swim and follows with a challenging course along the northern half of the Ironman World Championship bike course. The hot and sunny run starts and finishes at the BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

beautiful Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast and winds its way through the Mauna Lani Resort over modern golf greens, past ancient petroglyph fields and fishponds, and the historic Ala Loa Foot trail. The post-race lawn party at The Fairmont Orchid is worth making it to the finish line. The host hotel goes all out to feed the hungry athletes, but the real dessert is the championship slot allocations at the end of the day. After the race, the island offers competitors a vacation playground with a variety of natural wonders to explore, including rain forests, waterfalls, active volcanoes, black sand beaches, and abundant marine life. Email hawaii70.3@ ironman.com for more information. KING KAMEHAMEHA DAY CELEBRATION PARADE, KAILUA-KONA (June 10) - The annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Historic Kailua Village honors the great aliÿi, King Kamehameha I, who established the first capital of the united Hawaiian Kingdom in Kailua-Kona at Kamakahonu. This year’s parade theme is “Ho‘ohiwahiwa No Kamehameha,” translated,

“Honoring Kamehameha.” Beginning near Royal Kona Resort at 9am, the floral parade travels down Ali‘i Drive past Kamakahonu by the pier, then up Palani Road to Kuakini Highway. Parade participants include regal päÿü riders on horseback, hula hälau, equestrian units, marching bands, horse-drawn carriages and more. After the parade, enjoy a hoÿolauleÿa (music and art festival) at Hulihe‘e Palace, including a free concert featuring Hawaiian recording artists. Then take time to visit the many shops, galleries and historic landmarks of Historic Kailua Village. KonaParade.org JULY TURTLE INDEPENDENCE DAY (July 4) - Held purposefully every year on July 4th, this unique event educates people about endangered Hawaiian green sea turtles. Watch as the young honu (turtles), which have grown up in the ponds at the Mauna Lani Resort, are given their freedom as they are released back into the ocean. Call the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows at (808) 885-6622 to learn more.

GREAT WAIKOLOA RUBBER DUCKIE RACE & 4TH OF JULY EXTRAVAGANZA (July 4) - An all-day, fun-filled family event features a wild and wacky rubber duckie race at Kings’ Lake at the Kings’ Shops Waikoloa with food booths, live entertainment and lots of exciting activities culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. Beach chairs and mats welcome. No coolers please. This is an alcohol and drug free event benefiting United Cerebral Palsy Association of Hawaiÿi. Starts at 11am. Visit WaikoloaBeachResort.com. All events are subject to change.

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Please Join Us

Saturday, June 10 | 9am

King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade — on ali‘i drive in historic kailua village —

Join the celebration of Hawai‘i’s great monarch in Historic Kailua Village. This year’s floral parade features beautiful pā‘ū equestrian units representing the Hawaiian Islands, plus private mounted units, the queen’s unit, horse-drawn carriages, hula hālau, marching bands and floats. More than 120 riders on horseback!

konaparade.org After the parade, join us at Hulihe‘e Palace for a Hawaiian Arts & Crafts Fair, HO‘OLAULE‘A & a FREE CONCERT, featuring top Hawaiian recording artists.

presenting sponsors Hawaii Tourism Authority, Oceanic Time Warner Cable, Royal Order of Kamehameha, Hale Mua Cultural Group, KAPA Radio, Charter Locker, Kailua Village Business Improvement District, Mahealani Ranch, Palani Ranch

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Culture Trip EXPLORE THE HISTORIC SITES OF NORTH KOHALA

LIFE IN THE TROPICS

COLORFUL CREATURES OF THE REEF

THE HAWAIIAN WAY

LIVING WITH THE ALOHA SPIRIT

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SUMMER 2017

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