BIG ISLAND myhawaiitraveler.com
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
L E G E N DA RY myhawaiitraveler.com
SHOPPING & DINING
T R AV E L E R
THE SCENIC ROUTE
ALA KAHAKAI NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAIL
ARTFUL ATTRACTION LOCAL ARTISTS MEET DRAMATIC SCENERY IN KOHALA
POKE ACROSS THE USA THIS LOCAL STAPLE IS SWEEPING THE NATION
T I F FA N Y & C O .
M I C H A E L KO R S
TO R I R I C H A R D
TO M M Y B A H A M A
L ’ O C C I TA N E
T H E KOA TA B L E BY C H E F I P P Y
MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY
TRAINING IN PARADISE FOR THE FIT AND FOCUSED
A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L
NA HOKU MARTIN & MACARTHUR AND MORE...
Located in Waikoloa Beach Resort | Big Island | KingsShops.com | 808.886.8811
FALL 2017
M AC Y ’ S R E S O R T S TO R E
ISLAND OF CHAMPIONS
R OY ’ S WA I KO L O A B A R & G R I L L
$6.99
LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK EPIC ADVENTURES THE BEST BEACHES WHAT WE LOVE NOW
HAWAII
take the colors of Hawaii home
Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel
OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort
MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea
Ultimate Wood Watches Made with Hawaii Koa
Hand-crafted with carved Koa wood from the Big Island Automatic self-winding movement. Precision 21-jewel craftsmanship Sapphire crystal
www.MartinandMacArthur.com Kings’ Shops Waikaloa (808) 886-0696. Oahu Maui Kauai Las Vegas
CONTENTS 2
24 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island
70 POKE IN THE USA This local staple is sweeping the nation
40 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North
73 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences
48 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū
78 THE HOT SPOT Pueo's Osteria
92 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano
80 CULINARY Q&A Executive Chef Thomas Bellec
8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i Style
82 SIPPING THROUGH THE SEASON Whether you are hosting a party for two or twenty, these wines are bottled happiness
24 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Big Island 34 THE SCENIC ROUTE Exploring Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail 46 A STROLL THROUGH TIME Discover the historical secrets of Keauhou Bay 44 CULTURE TRIP Explore the Historic Sites of North Kohala 58 ARTFUL ATTRACTION Local artists meet dramatic scenery in North Kohala
84 THE JOY OF PARTY PLANNING Make your next celebration a Wanderfull adventure 91 ISLAND OF CHAMPIONS Training in paradise for the fit and focused 96 MOONWALKING IN VOLCANO A day to remember exploring Madame Pele’s dwelling 96 THE PLIGHT OF 'ŌHIA LEHUA These native trees are deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture and need to be saved.
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
REGIONAL + SEASONAL + ARTISANAL
SAVOR the
MOMENT
Four Seasons Resort Hualālai Reservations 808.325.8000 www.uluoceangrill.com
CONTENTS
GOLF | 42
BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R
THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I
PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger
EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger
CONTRIBUTORS Kirk Lee Aeder Brooke Rehmann Krystal Kakimoto Ekua Impraim Peter A. Thoene Coco Zickos Cheryl Martin
SHOP | 54 DINING | 62
COPY EDITOR
myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media
ADVENTURE | 86 Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler-media.com Copyright©2017 Traveler Media Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.
BEACHES | 104 4
EVENTS | 110
MADE IN THE USA BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (COVER) ; (TOP LT) MAUNA LANI BAY HOTEL; (TOP RT) TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY
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ALOHA
EDITOR'S NOTE
T
he Big Island is a youngster. Compared to Kaua‘i, estimated to be more than 5 million years old, the Big Island is considered a toddler, and has yet to reach its 1 millionth birthday. It’s also the only island that hasn’t finished growing, where past and present meet the future. Five volcanoes comprise the island, three of which are still considered active—Mauna Loa, Kïlauea and Hualälai. You might wonder how anyone could possibly live here with so many active volcanoes in such a finite space, but I can tell you with certainty, it’s easy—and enjoyable. While you can never foresee when Madame Pele, the Hawaiian fire goddess, might stir, she is currently only displaying her dramatic glory at Kïlauea where lava spews forth from earth’s deep recesses slowly and steadily. I am among the many people mesmerized by the Big Island for the chance to witness this striking act (from a safe distance, of course). But watching Pele in action is actually quite elusive, even for those of us who live here. Due to her unpredictable nature, one of the best ways to appreciate her work is making a trip to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (Moonwalking in Volcano, p. 96). Kïlauea is the pulsating heart of this town where you can amble across trails of new earth, view otherworldly landscapes, and encounter the crimson glow of molten lava as it restlessly stirs inside Halema‘uma‘u Crater. I find the rich diversity of Big Island landscapes enchanting, as I’m sure the island’s first inhabitants did. The Big Island might be the latest in the Hawaiian chain, but it has had plenty of time for natural elements like wind and rain to carve out pristine terrain suitable for many species to survive and thrive, including humans. Historic civilizations flourished in places like Keauhou Bay (A Stroll Through Time, p. 46) where ali‘i, or Hawaiian royalty, were known to reside. Polynesian settlers lived within land divisions called
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ahupua‘a that contained lovely locales like this, where they were gifted with abundant resources. Instead of roads connecting these sustainable regions, the communities were united by a 175-mile-long pathway (The Scenic Route, p. 34). This foot trail extended from the sweeping emerald cliffs of the island’s north shore to the rugged western borders. Fragments of this historical path still exist and stretch across gorgeous white sandy beaches and craggy shorelines with plunging precipices, perfect for a day’s adventure. But while many places of natural historical importance like this are being preserved, other aspects of Hawai‘i’s history are under threat. One of the island’s most culturally prominent native plants, the ÿöhiÿa lehua tree (The Plight of ÿÖhiÿa Lehua, p. 100) is facing a serious predicament called Rapid ÿÖhiÿa Death, a fungus that has already claimed at least 75,000 acres of trees. When I travel to certain areas of the island and see forests of these barren, leafless trees, I’m reminded of this perplexing situation, and how important it is to take care of Hawai‘i’s endemic species. We can all do our best to prevent the disease from spreading by making sure to use the decontamination stations at trailheads for our shoes. As long as each person does their part to protect the natural splendor of the island, we can continue to enjoy the geographical and anthropological history that makes the Big Island profoundly exceptional. Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
Front row seats available
FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI Reservations (808) 325-8000 fourseasons.com/hualalai
LOCAL VIBE ISLAND BEAST It’s not likely that your first thought of the creatures that call Hawaiÿi home is a boar. Yet, these animals roam Hawaiÿi’s forests, wreaking havoc as they go, damaging the fragile ecosystem by digging up and eating endangered native species, and spreading diseases as they travel. Brought over by the Europeans in the 18th century, these swine have run wild in Hawaiÿi’s pristine wilderness. These beasts are different from the smaller pigs brought over by Polynesians in terms of size and destruction, with boars being significantly larger. One place you might see these pesky pigs is on the menus of restaurants all around the island. Admired for its lean meat, wild boar is added to a variety of dishes, including a variety of local sausages. Outfitters are available across the state to take those interested in hunting wild boar—perhaps you’ll come home with your own dinner while also preserving the wild beauty of our islands.
ROYAL FLOWER Hawaiÿi is home to many beautiful flowers, but the ÿilima is one of the more vibrant standouts. The official flower of the island of Oÿahu, this small member of the hibiscus family grows on shrubs around the state, and is becoming more and more popular as a landscaping option. This beautiful small flower is said to be the representation of the goddess of hula, Laka, and one of the main flowers selected for lei-making prior to the arrival of Europeans to the islands. When someone receives an ÿilima lei, it is said that an honor is bestowed to the wearer with the ancient traditions of Hawaiÿi and Polynesia, as it was only adorned by the highest chiefs. Keep an eye out for this lovely blossom in your travels, and imagine the lives of those who would have picked these flowers in ages past.
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LOCAL LINGO Think about all the times you’ve had to say goodbye to friends and loved ones, but didn’t want the words to sound so final. Here in Hawaiÿi, the phrase “a hui hou” meaning “until we meet again,” seems to perfectly address this sentiment. The “a” is pronounced softly, and the other words are pronounced “who-we ho,” and is said in parting with friends and loved ones. Adding the word “käkou,” pronounced “ka-ko,” at the end can be used to address a larger group of close loved ones. You may be tempted to whisper the phrase at the end of your vacation; in that way, you are not saying goodbye to Hawaiÿi, but sending out a reminder that you will return one day to enjoy the sunshine and the aloha spirit once again. And until you do, a hui hou. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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We invite you to experience the Island of Hawaii’s premier destination for
DINING, RELAXATION AND CULTURE ©2017 Hilton Waikoloa Village
Call 808-886-1234 • Visit HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com FOLLOW HiltonWaikoloaVillage
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LOCAL VIBE
SEEING SEA TURTLES One of the most highly anticipated creatures to spot on any trip to Hawaiÿi is the honu, or the Hawaiian green sea turtle. The majestic honu sail through the ocean, while feasting on algae close to shore. And though they appear to glide easily through the sea, adult honu can reach up to 500 pounds, don’t reach sexual maturity until 25-40 years old, and can live beyond 60 years. Because they breathe air, eagle-eyed beach goers can spot their heads as they pop out of the water to take a breath. Don’t be surprised if they disappear for a few minutes; many times, they will pop their heads up again nearby. On land, they can be a challenge to spot as they are sometimes overlooked as lava rocks. In ancient Hawaiÿi, the honu and its eggs were a delicacy, and as Europeans and others moved to the islands, overharvesting has led to the honu becoming an endangered species. As such, visitors are asked to simply observe these iconic and beautiful animals from a safe distance. Do not touch or disturb adult turtles as they rest on the beach or swim in the sea, or assist baby turtles as they make their long march to the ocean for the first time. Working together, we can ensure that future generations can enjoy the sport of spotting the beloved honu on our beautiful beaches for years to come. 10
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
LOCAL VIBE
ALIEN FRUIT If you were looking for a fruit most likely to be from an alien world, look no further than the rambutan. The bright red spiky, hairy rind reminiscent of an early 90s Koosh ball hides an inner sweet white flesh similar in appearance to a lychee. This exotic fruit, originally from Southeast Asia, is part of the lychee family, and evokes the taste and texture of the more familiar fruit. Opening a rambutan typically requires cutting around the center of the spiky rind with a knife, but can also be bitten off if the fruit is fresh. Simply squeeze out the fleshy fruit, and discard the bitter pit as you eat. Rambutan season in Hawaiÿi is from October through March, so keep your eyes peeled for this extraterrestrial looking fruit at farmers markets and Asian supermarkets around the island. You’ll be rewarded by a unique experience that you’re not likely to forget any time soon. 12
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
r
LOCAL VIBE
SCARLET BEAUTY The Hawaiian honeycreeper, also known as the ÿiÿiwi, is one of our state’s most iconic birds. With its distinctive curved beak and bright red body with black wings and tail, this stunning endemic bird can be found on the higher slopes of our island’s volcanoes. Their beaks are perfect for feeding on the nectar of the lehua flower of ÿöhiÿa trees, and act as a pollinator for the trees. In ancient times, Hawaiian royalty prized the ÿiÿiwi’s feathers to adorn capes and helmets, and modern-day visitors can’t help but appreciate their bright scarlet plumage. Sadly, while the birds are not currently endangered, climate change is negatively affecting their habitat, forcing the birds to find new ground at higher elevations to avoid disease-carrying mosquitos. While visiting our island, be on the lookout for these beautiful creatures, and be mindful of your carbon footprint to help these birds live on into perpetuity. 16
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
Queens’ MarketPlace COMING SOON Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas DINING Charley’s Thai Cuisine Daylight Mind Café & Restaurant Romano’s Macaroni Grill Sansei Seafood, Steak & Sushi Bar FASHION Blue Ginger Family Cookies Clothing Co. Crocs Kona Surf N’ Sandals Local Motion Mahina Malibu Shirts PacSun Persimmon Quiksilver Reyn’s Volcom FOOD OUTLETS Dairy Queen/Orange Julius Hawaiian Fish N Chips Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ Lemongrass Express Marble Slab Creamery® Paradise Pizza & Grill Starbucks Subway Sandwiches & Salads GROCERY Island Gourmet Markets JEWELRY & ART Genesis Galleries Island Pearls Lava Light Galleries SERVICES Aston Hotels & Resorts Century 21 All Islands Hawaii Life Real Estate Brokers Hearts & Stars Salon & Day Spa Hilton Grand Vacations Club Luxury Big Island by Harold Clarke Waikoloa Dental Clinic Waikoloa Realty SPECIALTY & GIFTS Bike Works Beach ’n Sports Blue Wilderness Dive Adventures Claire’s Hawaiian Quilt Collection Hawaiian Ukulele & Guitar Lids Ocean Sports Pacific Nature SoHa Living Sunglass Hut
808-886-8822 | QueensMarketPlace.net Waikoloa Beach Resort | the Kohala Coast 20 miles north of Kona International Airport
“BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE BIG ISLAND”
WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL
Fair Wind II and Hula Kai at historic Kealakekua Bay & site of the Captain Cook Monument Information & Reservations 808.345.6213 | www.fair-wind.com
LOCAL VIBE
TROPICAL GEM Part of the Kekaha Kai State Park, Kua Bay is popular with locals for its gorgeous pristine white sand beach and crystal clear turquoise water. This beach is great for swimming when the water is calm and popular with boogie boarders when the swells are up. Exercise caution and ocean safety and study conditions prior to entry. This tropical gem is a perfect spot to watch heavenly Hawaiian sunsets with a picnic, and spot honu (green sea turtles) along with tropical fish. Kua Bay is popular with the locals and tends to get very crowded on weekends. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.
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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
let nothing come between us I NTRODUCI N G HAWAI I’S MOST SPECTACU LAR B EACH FRONT R ESI DE NCES, AT TH E B E LOVE D MAU NA K EA R ESORT
Let nothing come between you and the sea, sand and sky. Let nothing come between you and the legendary destination that created and has defined island luxury for generations. The Mauna Kea Resort. Construction will soon be underway on a collection of 56 contemporary beachfront residences. If you want to live in Hawaii for the beach, why would you live anywhere else? Express your interest now for our debut release. 808.557.8689
Info@MaunaKeaLiving.com
For Hapuna Beach Residences, obtain the Developer’s Public Report for a Condominium required by Hawaii law and read it before signing a binding sales contract. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of these properties. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy where prohibited by law.
LOCAL VIBE
MY HAWAI‘I NAME
|
ALLEN HESS
OCCUPATION
|
CHEF / OWNER OF MAI GRILLE
HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I
|
18 YEARS
Favorite beach: Kïholo Bay for the family, there is a lot of fun activities such as Queen’s Bath, snorkeling and hiking. Personally, I like the Kohala Coast where I can 4x4 down to a beach and get a long dive in. Favorite snorkel spot: Kohala Coast or South Point—lots of fish and lots of other animals are in abundance—I see monk seals, turtles, sharks, heÿe (octopus), puhi (eel), lobster. Favorite drive: Hämäkua Coast. When the sun is out you can’t beat the waterfalls of that coastline. Favorite custom/tradition: Lüÿau. You will never understand Hawaiian cuisine until you eat everything together i.e., poi, lomi-lomi salmon and kälua pig topped with some chili pepper water. Favorite hangout: I can’t tell—I want to keep it my favorite spot. Hint: it’s a beach. Favorite Hawaiian band/CD: IZ but my wife’s is Anuhea. . Favorite place to take your guests: Waipiÿo Valley. I get to teach people what little I know, and they immediately feel how special this place is. Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: Puakö has great sunsets, and sunrise is up Mauna Kea Mountain. Favorite place for happy hour: Mai Grille—we have cheap fish tacos, poke nachos and $5 schooners. Favorite place to splurge: Four Seasons Hualälai Resort—great views, nice wine list and service is awesome. Favorite nightspot: Any restaurant where we know the chefs—we are a small community so we have to keep each other informed i.e., Honu Bar at Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows and A-Bay’s Island Grill in Waikoloa. Favorite place to take in the history: I like to visit the island museums. Hilo has the best or the Puÿukoholä Heiau National Historic Site in Kawaihae. Lucky you live Hawai‘i because…the people, lifestyle, and weather. It is everything you want.
my local faves
WAIPI‘O VALLEY 24
If you were a visitor, you would want to know…that Volcano is a full day trip. If it says ‘kapu,’ please respect it. And everything in the Hawaii, the Big Island Revealed book is not true, so be selective—use common sense on what you decide to do or explore. Drive slowly. Every beach is packed on Sundays; and every restaurant is packed at 7pm, so if you want fast service, come in at 6pm or 8pm.
HONU BAR
MAUNA KEA SUNRISE BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
We know traditions. We’ve been inspiring them for generations.
Ovaltine Froth. Fredrico. Mauna Kea Mule. Clambake under the stars. Taste our enduring food favorites or discover your own when you come together for an oceanfront meal at Mauna Kea — perhaps the best tradition of all. MaunaKeaBeachHotel.com
Timeless happens here.
ALOHA
HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND
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ALOHA
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nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak.
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ALOHA
Our Bees Need to Fly 48,000 Miles to Produce One Pound of Raw Organic Hawaiian Honey. No matter how many miles you’ve flown to reach the Big Island, you’ll never forget your visit to Big Island Bees. Experience one of the world’s leading honey farms. Visit an open beehive where you’ll have a box seat on beekeeping, in a safe and secure screened area. Take a tour of our museum. Discover the history of beekeeping and glimpse into the hidden world of bees. Enjoy free samples of the raw,
organic single-floral honeys that are enjoyed around the world. When you come visit us here in Captain Cook, make a day of it. Snorkel at Two Step. Explore nearby Kealakekua Bay, the ancient Hiki’au Heiau Temple, and Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. Come spend some time with us in this hidden corner of Hawaii. 120 million of our bees look forward to seeing you.
Reservations: 808.328.1315 or B I G I S L A N D BE E S .C O M THE BIG ISLAND BEE COMPANY Raw & Organic Hawaiian Honey 82-1140 Meli Rd Captain Cook, HI 96704
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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine. Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.”
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Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
myhawaiitraveler.com
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THE SCENIC ROUTE
Exploring Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail
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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
WORDS PETER A. THOENE IMAGES ERIC FRANKE
myhawaiitraveler.com
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n the early morning sun, the heatwaves ripple on the black horizon. The warmth radiates from two sources— the sunlight above, and the unforgiving basalt below. Billowy clouds swirl above the massive volcanoes to the east. To the west, the azure Pacific booms, as waves spit salt spray in my direction. I’m standing on a rough portion of the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail. The 175-mile trail stretches from the lush northernmost tip of the island, ÿUpolu Point, southward along the west coast and terminates at the arid eastern boundary of Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park. Although the modern trail is fragmented, the Ala Kahakai for the most part mimics a more ancient trail called the ala loa that would’ve wrapped around the entire island like a lei. It’s difficult to overstate how essential the ala loa was in ancient Hawaiÿi. Prior to Western contact, the only means of transportation, besides a canoe, was on foot. The island-wide ala loa and its tributaries connected the six moku (districts) of Hawaiÿi—Kohala, Kona, Kaÿü, Puna, Hilo, and Hämäkua— and facilitated trade throughout. Healthy trade between the moku enabled the Hawaiians not only to survive, but also to thrive, thanks in part to the unique land division system designed by the Hawaiian people. This ingenious political, food, and resource system is called the ahupuaÿa. This system was so effective that the resources produced within the system helped support an island population that may have been larger than our population today. To better picture the ahupuaÿa, imagine Hawaiÿi Island as a pizza, sliced up, and ready to serve. Each “pizza slice,” was an ahupuaÿa land division. The triangular slice was narrow at the mountaintops in the center of the island, and wider at the “crust,” at the coast. Every resource a community needed to survive was contained within. Through labor specialization, workers focused on what they did best. If you were a good farmer, you farmed. If you’re a good fisherman, you fished. With the surplus these experts produced, people could trade with others who lived and worked in their ahupuaÿa for the other survival staples. No money changed hands. Nobody owned land. However, in exchange for this idyllic lifestyle, Hawaiians did have to provide taxes to the kings during the makahiki (ancient festival) season. 36
Beginning about the middle of October and lasting roughly four months, the rainy makahiki season was a time of peace. Weapons were put down. Worship of the war god Kü ceased and the god of agriculture, Lono, was instead celebrated. During that time, the rulers needed the ala loa trail to march around the island and collect tribute from their people. Stopping, in theory, at each ahupuaÿa, the kings would gather offerings. In a matter of 23 days, via the lengthy ala loa, these rulers would pass through the roughly 600 ahupuaÿa slices on Hawaiÿi Island. It’s hard to imagine walking around the island in just 23 days when, on this warm, windless morning, I’ve only hiked about a mile, and the heat is persuading me to give up soon. My goal is an otherwise inaccessible sliver of sand, sandwiched between the iconic Kaunaÿoa Bay and the secluded Mauÿumae Beach. While both Mauÿumae and Kaunaÿoa are accessible by car, via the Mauna Kea Resort, I opted to park at Häpuna Beach State Park and walk north along the sun-drenched coast. This section of trail mimics the ancient ala loa, but it’s not exactly the same. As the years went by and Hawaiÿi evolved, so did the ala loa trail—it was altered, improved, or widened. Sections of old pathways were abandoned and new roads were dozed to create links alongside the ancient trial. The ancient ala loa had layers of modernization, tributaries, and portions missing completely. Finally, in the year 2000, the National Park Service recognized how special this trail was, and how it needed to be protected. 175 miles of the multigenerational pathways were combined and designated a National Historic Trail aptly named the Ala Kahakai, or trail by the sea. The portion of seaside trail I chose to hike is particularly rocky. About a mile of loose gravel trail winds up and down steep cliffs between the heavenly white sand beaches Häpuna and Kaunaÿoa, the latter also known as Mauna Kea Beach. So gorgeous is Mauna Kea Beach that philanthropist and businessman Laurance S. Rockefeller had the very first hotel on the coast built on this beach in the 1960s. Pushing past the hotel’s grounds and the famous 3rd hole on its golf course, I finally come to a thin patch of white sand at a river mouth. This haven is the perfect place for a saltwater plunge, and my final destination. If you’re feeling just a bit more ambitious, continue to Mauÿumae Beach up and over the hill to spend BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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the remainder of your day snorkeling, or relaxing in warm respite in a picturesque spot. The setting sun and fading light act as my natural alarm clock urging me to return home. Retracing my footsteps, I pass by the glinting glass from luxury homes and hotels. Slapping a few mosquitoes off my arms, I can’t help but ponder how much has changed in the 239 years since Captain James Cook and his men stumbled upon a metal-free, mosquito-free, paradise. For a deeper understanding, check out the National Historic Sites and National Parks along the Ala Kahakai Trail. Puÿukoholä Heiau (temple) is a wartime remnant of King Kamehameha the Great. The Kaloko-Honoköhau National Historical Park in Kona preserves the ingenuity of the Hawaiian fishpond system. Puÿuhonua o Hönaunau brings to life the religion of a society that for roughly 800 years had no outside influence telling them how to worship. Of course, you could always choose the popular route and spend your time on other pristine white sands along the trail. Park the car at Kekaha Kai State Park and hike the arid mile to Makalawena Beach. The sand is as fine as baby powder. Wading into the Pacific at Makalawena, you can clearly see myhawaiitraveler.com
your toes buried in that softness even while chest deep in the 77°F saltwater. No matter what portion of the Ala Kahakai Trail you choose to hike, you’ll be able to share a common thread with those who walked before you. Amongst the footprints of kings and commoners, coffee farmers and Captain Cook, you’ll feel the same sun’s heat and the same salt spray. Peering into the same blue sky, you might ask yourself the same question those before us asked: What does the future hold for Hawaiÿi? If all goes well on the Ala Kahakai, the future holds a continued stewardship of a gorgeous trail vital to our ancestors, our peers, and our children.
HIKING TIPS
With all hikes along the Ala Kahakai Trail, take plenty of water, use reef-safe sunscreen, and cover up. The arid west coast of the Big Island gets very little rainfall, and stays hot for most of the day. Early morning, or late afternoon, is often the best times to hike. Good shoes are crucial. The jagged ÿaÿä lava is largely composed of glass and iron. This is as unforgiving as it sounds. Be prepared and experience the beautiful coast safely and mindfully. 39
DESTINATIONS
KOHALA Historic North & Sunny South Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 40
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
Discover Hawaii with Safari Helicopters The People'sChoice Since 1987 Naval Reserves as a Commander (0-5). Preston Myers, owner/pilot of Safari Helicopters, has radically changed the helicopter industry throughout the After active duty with the US Navy, Myers returned to State of Hawaii. Safari was the first company in the State Southeast Asia as a civilian and flew for the infamous of Hawaii to fly air tours in the comfort of an “Air America” flying throughout Thailand, Laos, air-conditioned ASTAR 350 B aircraft and the first to offer Cambodia, and South Vietnam on quasi-military secret a two-way communication system between passengers and missions. He continued his adventures by relocating pilot. They were also the first company to install and operate to Singapore, the international trading capital of the an FAA approved multiple video camera system with high world. He flew on oil exploration projects throughout quality digital cameras to record the passengers’ actual tour, the Indonesian Archipelago of Borneo, Sumatra, capturing the music, and live narration. Along with Java, Celebes, and Irian Jaya (Dutch New Guinea) introducing new and innovative ways to improve the conducting extensive external loading operations entire helicopter tour experience, Safari was also the moving oil drilling rigs piece by piece to remote site first operator in the State to fly the higher performance locations. ASTAR 350 B2 helicopters introduced in 1991. Preston maintained his flying proficiency with the Naval Reserves as Nowadays, Safari flys the Executive Officer for a combat search and rescue squadron based at NAS North Island, flying the H-3A helicopter. It didn’t Super ASTAR 350 B2-7 which take him long to realize he was not meant for a three-piece features a left side pilot seat configuration suit or freeway traffic jams and moved his family to Hawaii. allowing for a better view when flying clockwise around the island, higher performance, more If you are interested in flight-seeing Kauai with a small, reliability, and more passenger leg room… family-owned company that offers you professional and another ‘first’. These aircrafts are now equipped caring service, then fly with Preston Myers or one of his with “Mega” windows offering almost 40% highly qualified pilots. Myers is truly concerned about his increased visibility. Safari was also the first to passengers’ safety and believes in the axiom, “There are old Family owned and operated initiate the production of the “Safari Skylight” pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold ceiling windows to open up the skies above for an From our family to yours…Escape your pilots.” awesome view of Mt. Waialeale Crater. reality and join ours as we take you on a Safari Helicopter Tours is a Certified Part 135 air carrier, tour into the heart of the Garden Island. Preston Myers, one of the island’s most Part 133 External-load Operator, and is experienced pilots with more than 40 years in also authorized under Part 137. Safari aviation, started flying at Mt. San Antonio College near Pomona, Helicopters not only has sightseeing tour experience California prior to the Vietnam conflict. He then graduated with a degree but has conducted contracts with the US Navy and in aviation before entering the U.S. Navy. Myers recently retired from the was DOD AMC authorized, Inter-Agency qualified to fly US Government personnel with several years experience fire-fighting on the US Mainland. Overall, no other company in Hawaii has this kind of experience. Tours vary depending on weather, 48 hr. cancellation, Weight restrictions apply. Call 808-246-0136 or toll-free 808-326-3356 for more information. Tours are also available on the Big Island in Hilo at 808-969-1259. Email: info@safarihelicopters.com, Web: www.safarihelicopters.com
Call 808-246-0136
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HUALĀLAI GOLF COURSE
ISLAND GOLF This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.
HUALĀLAI RESORT
The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.
MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE
For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert 42
Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.
MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE
The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.
MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE
The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.
WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE
Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.
WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE
Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI
HAPUNA GOLF COURSE
It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i.
Challenging 18 holes overlooking the Pacific and an epic over-the-ocean par-3 has set the standard for Hawai‘i golf for generations. Master the unforgettable, right here. MaunaKeaBeachHotel.com myhawaiitraveler.com
Timeless happens here. 43
DESTINATIONS
Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 44
Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: (RIGHT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM
KONA COAST
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A STROLL THROUGH TIME Discover the historical secrets of Keauhou Bay WORDS BROOKE REHMANN
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on’t let the little seaside neighborhood of Keauhou fool you—this is the birthplace of royalty. Keauhou, located just minutes south of Kailua-Kona, is located within the ahupuaÿa, typically a wedge-shaped slice of land that runs from the sea to the mountain, named after itself. Keauhou’s legend emerges to tell the story of a Hawaiian king, a celebrated surfing spot, by-gone heiau, or temples, ancient burial grounds, and even a cattleloading operation. For modern-day visitors, history unfolds alongside a host of activities on both land and sea, making Keauhou a must-see stop on any Big Island itinerary. There aren’t many places within the United States that can conceivably claim to be the birthplace of future kings, but here in Keauhou, or the “The New Era” in Hawaiian, a future king took his first breaths. Stillborn at birth, Kauikeaouli, the future King Kamehameha III, was born on August 1813 in the caves hidden behind the current harbor of Keauhou Bay. Placed upon a sacred rock, prayers were offered up until the baby and future king took his first breath. Visitors can still see this sacred rock today behind the harbor and read about the history on the placards placed there. I recently joined a cultural tour offered by the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay, which offers free tours to guests of the hotel, as well as to the public for a small fee. Rolinda Bean, the cultural supervisor for the Sheraton, shared how special Keauhou is not only from a historical perspective, but also in terms of its shape. “Keauhou is the only ahupuaÿa that runs from sea to sea,” she says, as the slice of land goes up and over the mountain to the other side of the island. As we walked along the shores of the property, various objects and formations started to take shape as the history of the bay and community were discussed. Formations that I had strolled past for years now took on a whole new significance as the history of this bay unfolded. A large rock, standing erect towards the mouth of the bay myhawaiitraveler.com
was said to be a bell stone, or a large rock that was struck to alert the village of the arrival of aliÿi, or royalty, or perhaps the arrival of a crew of fisherman from a day at sea. Today, it still stands, and visitors can envision what life along the shores might have looked like not so long ago. Further along the shore lie remnants of various structures, including what is thought to be a hälau waÿa, or canoe house, a hale (house) for the waÿa (canoe) keeper, as well as the foundations of a cattle pen when paniolo (Hawaiian cowboys) helped load cattle on to boats out of this bay. Slowly, the images of a past civilization emerge, even if some of the evidence is hiding behind landscaping. According to resident kupuna (elder), Lily Kong, the shores of Keauhou Bay were also home to a very large heiau (temple) where villagers left offerings to help ensure a plentiful fish harvest. The current management team of the Sheraton takes their stewardship of this historical area seriously, and has worked to undo past work that covered up the beautiful history of this land. Nearby is Heÿeia Bay with its turquoise water and palm tree-lined shores beckoning visitors from afar. In the winter months, this bay is known for a giant wave that was available only to the aliÿi (chiefs, royalty) to surf. During the Makahiki season, which typically begins in mid-October and lasts until late January or February and celebrates the god Lono through games and competition, chiefs would issue a challenge to each other to see who could reach the shores of Heÿeia Bay first—surfers or those on hölua (narrow wooden sleds). If you look up towards the cliffs of Hualälai behind Keauhou Bay, you can still see a faint outline of a grass and lava rock track where chiefs would slide down on their sleds into the bay. Today’s visitors might not be able to sled down the mountain, but other modern options abound, such as stand-up paddle boarding, surfing, paddling, kayaking, and other sea-faring activities. Snorkeling 47
outfitters leave out of the bay as they head south along the dramatic coastline, through sea caves while sighting the occasional pods of frolicking dolphins that enjoy playing in the bay. At night, once the sun goes down, those with an adventurous streak can head out on boat tours to the front of the Sheraton, where a number of manta rays visit each evening. Divers and snorkelers hop in the water armed with water noodles and flash lights as they watch the graceful rays feed on the plankton attracted by the bright lights that the Sheraton shines into the water. Don’t be surprised to walk away feeling like this was a lifechanging experience. Also available are sightseeing and cultural excursions aboard the Kini Kini, a replica of a double-hulled Hawaiian sailing waÿa (canoe), learning about the history and culture in an authentic way. One of the more notable areas along the coast just past Keauhou Bay is the area that has been dramatically named, “The End of the World.” This area was the scene of the Kuamoÿo Battle in the early 1800s, where various factions of Hawaiians fought over the kapu system and conversion from Hawaiian gods to Christianity. This conversion represented a slow overturning of Hawaiian customs to some, but to the ruling King Kamehameha II and his entourage, the introduction of iron, guns, cannons, and other modern goods suggested that the European god was stronger than their own gods. Ultimately, Kamehameha II and his side won the battle, paving the way for the more modern Hawaiÿi we know today, but also the slow death of the ancient ways. Hence, this battle and area is known by the name “The End of the World” to represent the decline of life as it had been known. Lying under stone altars at the Kuamoÿo Battlefield are the remains of the warriors who died fighting to perpetuate their ancient culture and can still be seen today. Following a long day of exploring the beauty and history of this culturally significant place, the Sheraton Kona offers visitors lunch and dinner options. Holua Poolside Bar & Lounge offers casual-style food and cocktails for lunch, while Rays on the Bay features a more upscale, oceanfront dining experience overlooking the stunning vistas of Keauhou Bay. As you sip a glass of wine and watch the sunset slip behind the horizon, it’s not hard to imagine why this slice of the Big Island was so revered by ancient Hawaiians, and indeed, modern-day travelers alike. Keauhou Bay is located about seven miles south of Kailua-Kona. There is free parking along Kaleiopapa Street, and a beach park located beside the boat harbor. The Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay is located at 78-128 Ehukai Street, Kailua-Kona. Cultural tours are offered by the Sheraton Tuesday and Thursday mornings at 8:30am. For more information, call (808) 930-4900. Lunch and drinks are available at Holua Poolside Bar & Lounge from 11am to 3pm, and püpü and cocktails from 3pm to 5:30pm. Rays on the Bay offers dinner and drinks from 5:30pm to 9:30pm, and cocktails with a late night bar menu until closing at 11pm, and live music every night except Mondays. Keauhou Bay Adventures, located on the property of the Sheraton, offers snorkel, kayak and SUP rentals to explore the bay by sea. You can find more information at keauhoubayadventures.com. 48
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ARTFUL ATTRACTION From a splendid hike into Pololū Valley to discovering the most talented local artists, a day spent in North Kohala is a thing of beauty. WORDS COCO ZICKOS
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rtists in Hawaiÿi have an endless supply of inspiration. Living in a place with unrivaled beauty and a surplus of worthy subjects, it’s no wonder creatives abound in the Aloha State. Still, some artisans stand out more than others and Tiffany’s Art Agency in the quaint, eclectic town of Hawi is a testament to this. The gallery carries only the finest and most prominent local artists and is a must for every art lover’s itinerary. A gorgeous showroom, which offers an array of media including oil paintings, woodwork, sculptures, ceramics and photography, features artists in Hawaiÿi who are clearly a cut above the rest. “I love artists that are focused on their mastery,” says Tiffany DeEtte Shafto, owner of Tiffany’s Art Agency. Displaying artists who go out of their way to excel at their craft is one of the attributes that sets this gallery apart. And two of Shafto’s favorite Big Island artists (besides, of course, her husband, mixed-media artist Timothy Allan Shafto), David Reisland and Kristie Fujiyama Kosmides, are prime examples. Reisland, a master woodworker, brings an attention to detail that goes beyond what you’ll find anywhere else. His sleek, contemporary furniture with an Asian influence often includes the technique of marquetry—the art of creating pictures like flowers, plants and fish, by cutting veneers in contrasting colored woods, bringing refined elegance to each product. He takes the time to hand-cut every piece of wood, all the way down to the tiny marquetry details that require bevel (angular) cutting. This intricate labor allows each piece to nest perfectly with its neighbor. He also pays special attention to the types of wood he works with, as they all have unique features like color and grain. One of his favorite woods is the legendary koa tree, endemic to the Hawaiian Islands, with its wide range of colors, and incredible figure. Reisland incorporates extraordinary new methods into his work on a regular basis, making his furniture and artwork stand out even more. He’s currently using transparent toner paints on his marquetry designs to let the natural “figure” of the wood shine through, giving it even more luxurious detail and color. “I’ve found ways to push the woodworking medium to new places which keeps me from being bored,” he says. Kosmides, who creates fine art paintings, applies similar strategies when it comes to ensuring that her pieces stand out. Always going above and beyond, the Hilo native is currently focusing on the art of painting water and has been doing so for the past three years. “I wanted to practice water because I didn’t want my technical skills to frustrate me when I wanted to paint something I envisioned,” she explains. “I don’t think I will ever achieve mastery, but I enjoyed this time to discover and work on something.” Though she may not think of herself as gaining mastery, others will likely refute this. Her water paintings are ethereal and evoke a sense of calm wherever they are displayed. Her work, which has included all kinds of subjects like flowers and fish, is what she calls “representational.” In other words, the paintings aren’t entirely abstract, but rather “resemble” landscapes or subjects like the ocean. And while the first medium she chose to create with years ago was watercolor, her current favored medium is oils. “Oil paint is gorgeous and buttery and it just makes me happy; I can get lost in it all day,” says Kosmides, whose art is featured in many places, including the Honolulu International Airport. These two Big Island artists are reason enough to visit Tiffany’s Art Agency. But the fact that the lovely gallery offers such a bevy of artwork—each piece focused myhawaiitraveler.com
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Still, you can’t go wrong visiting the gallery in Hawi, which also spotlights one artist each month during a Collectors Reception. On the second Saturday of every month from 5 to 7pm, the featured agency artist shares a “talk story” session with attendees and püpü (appetizers) are served. Reisland, in fact, is the featured artist on October 14th. With so many chances to admire Hawaiÿi’s most talented artists, there’s no reason not to take advantage of the opportunity. You might even fall in love with something to take back home and bring happiness into your living space serving as a reminder of your incredible visit here. Because while each piece is one-of-a-kind, they all share a common theme that Shafto refers to as “joy.” “You can feel it in their work,” she says. Tiffany’s Art Agency is located at 55-3435 Akoni Pule Highway #9 next to Sushi Rock in Hawi. To learn more about the artists and upcoming events, go to tiffanysartagency.com or call (808) 747-5882. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
(BOTTOM LT) MANA BY CHRISTINA DEHOFF; (TOP RT; POLOLU BY TIMOTHY ALLAN SHAFTO)
on Hawaiÿi-related subjects, but with contemporary characteristics suitable for any home—is more than enough cause to make your way to the charming North Kohala community where it’s located. Plus, you can have a magical day discovering this charming town with its unique shops and dining options after you hike the striking Pololü Valley—a must-do on the Big Island. If you don’t have time to drive up the mountain, however, there are other options. Tiffany’s Art Agency is featuring Reisland’s and Kosmides’ work until Sept. 30 at the “Summer Snorkeling Show” at the Henderson Design Group at The Shops at Mauna Lani along the lava-rock studded Kohala Coast. Another fabulous event where Tiffany’s Art Agency talent is exhibited is at the Handmade Show at Chef Fest 2017, which is an amazing celebration of food and wine with culinary greats and master mixologists. Presented at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, October 4th thru 7th, the Handmade Show presents locally made, kitchen-related, functional work in ceramics, glass, metal and wood in a world-class setting.
STYLE
FLAWLESS STYLE
B
ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship. The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be proud to wear herself. Hildgund is forever searching the world for precious stones
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"I WANT TO GIVE OUR CUSTOMERS A ONE-OFA-KIND PERFECT PIECE THAT THEY CAN'T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE." -BRUCE BUCKY, PRESIDENT
that are transformed into wondrous works of art by designers from Hawai‘i and around the globe. Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PIECES OF PARADISE
18k yellow gold earrings with diamonds ($8,900); Serpent Bracelet, 18k yellow gold with ruby eye ($17,500). Available at Seaside Luxe Boutique in HualÄ lai Resort.
The craftsmen of Martin & MacArthur designed and created this elegant Koa clutch (above) to be the perfect accessory – balanced, functional, and stylish, using brilliant curly Koa from their own private stock of Koa harvested on the Big Island. Also shown, Tahitian pearl and Koa double strand necklace (right). Available at Martin & MacArthur in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.
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BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.
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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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BIG ISLAND:
Moving – Please Call For location 808.329.6500
Hand Woven • Natural Fibers Silk • Wool & Hemp Custom Design & Sized Available
Showroom Open Everyday Free Shipping & Local Delivery (with min. purchase)
Fine Design
OAHU: Na Lama Kukui • 808.524.7769 (Formerly Gentry Pacific Design Center) Ward Avenue Store • 808.596.7333 MAUI: Kahului • 808.877.7200 myhawaiitraveler.com www.hawaiianrugs.com
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ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced
that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com. MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur features the finest home furnishings and personal accessories made with Koa, the beautiful wood grown only in Hawaii. Come see our elegant Koa wood watches, Koa Eternity Rings, Koa iPhone and
A CUT ABOVE
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iPad covers, and Koa sunglasses. We have been making fine Koa furniture for over 50 years. We feature the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, model canoes, Hawaiian feather lei and ancient Hawaiian weapons made by over 200 local Hawaii craftsmen. Located at the Kings’ Shops. Call (808) 845-6688 or visit martinandmacarthur.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including, candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.
For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 3254765. THE SHOPS AT MAUNA LANI The Shops at Mauna Lani, located in the heart of the Kohala Coast, is THE place for that special combination of brand name quality and unique local craftsmanship. From designer fashions to casual beachwear, and unique custom accessories, you can find something wonderful for everyone. There are eight great dining options, from quick and casual to fine dining. Don’t miss our complimentary cultural lessons at 5:30pm on Mondays and Thursdays, followed by our famous hula show as well as Hawaii Island’s only 4D Adventure Ride theater. Join us for a uniquely Hawaiian Experience, located in the Mauna Lani Resort, open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. For more information, call (808) 885-9501 or visit our site at shopsatmaunalani.com. TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawai‘i’s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art. It’s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style “talk storyâ€? events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawai‘i. Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com
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GOLF
JUST BREATHE Unwind with Eucalyptus. WORDS CHERYL MARTIN
N
eed a little rest and relaxation? Sometimes rejuvenating yourself is as simple as breathing. At least once a week, I like to escape to my bathtub with a handful of eucalyptus crystals to help put my mind at ease. With only a few candles to illuminate the room, I sit back in total silence and breathe. It’s a way to treat myself after a long week, unwinding from any stress or pressure that may have built up from the craziness of everyday life. With the aid of some eucalyptus oil, a bathtub or steam room, I’ve learned to tune into my breathing and recognize the needs of my body. With each breath, I think of filling my lungs with oxygen and the healing vapors of the eucalyptus. As I exhale, I release a little bit of tension and let the aroma surround me. The tranquility and relaxation is much needed and has never been so easy to enjoy. After my bath, believe it or not, things that were taxing and tiring just don’t seem so bad. Although it is probable that many early explorers had known of the tree, no botanical collections of the eucalyptus were made until 1770
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when botanist, Sir Joseph Banks, arrived at Botany Bay, Australia with Captain James Cook. A native plant to Australia, it was subsequently introduced to many other places in the world, most notably California and Spain. Today, there are more than 700 known species of eucalyptus and they offer a range of scents. The blue gum variety is the most widely cultivated and produces most of the oils available today. In Hawaiÿi, eucalyptus was planted because it grows quickly and can self-sufficiently repopulate. There are many benefits of this particular tree, and it is essential to the health and beauty market. (The striking rainbow eucalyptus, painted by nature, can be seen around the island; and, although mostly used as an ornamental tree here, they are cultivated elsewhere for pulpwood used to make white paper.) Stress can happen anytime, anywhere—even on vacation. Whether at work, on a date, the airport, post office, or on a tee box—we can feel overwhelmed or annoyed. Eucalyptus is the most researched oil and has been proven to reduce stress and enhance relaxation therapy. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
A potent antiviral, antibacterial and decongestant agent, eucalyptus also treats throat and sinus infections. Most medical vapor rubs and liniments contain it. Aromatherapy focuses on alternative and holistic medicine through inhalation or the bodily application of essential oils from aromatic plants to help support health and well-being. The eucalyptus is a fundamental oil used in this practice and also valued for its function to increase energy and calm emotional imbalance. Vital oils have been documented for centuries, proving to have positive and healthy effects on the body. Egyptians used oils for several cosmetic purposes as well as for mummification, a major contribution to why mummies have been preserved so well. And, it is believed that Cleopatra made Marc Antony fall in love with her at first sight as her ship pulled into dock. She had drenched the sails in the natural aphrodisiac jasmine, as well as adorned herself in the seductive scent. Beyond smell, natural oils have been successful in combating viral, bacterial, fungal and parasitic microbes and organisms. Eucalyptus today is used liberally in the industrial preparation of medications like soaps and mouthwashes. Eucalyptus oils are extracted from the trees’ leaves and small twigs. The odor is strong, sharp and somewhat camphoraceous. Often, it takes several hundred pounds of plant material to produce just a small amount of essential oil. For eucalyptus, it takes about 50 to 60 pounds of plant material to make one pound of eucalyptus oil. (It takes more than 10,000 pounds of rose petals to make one pound of rose oil!) Once extracted, the oil is considered very concentrated and should be treated with the utmost of care for its state of potency. It is highly recommended that you should not create any blends without the guidance of an experienced practitioner for safety and toxicity reasons. The benefits of eucalyptus are plentiful—mix three drops of eucalyptus oil, two drops of lavender oil, and two drops of Roman Chamomile to two teaspoons of carrier oil and apply on joints and muscles for a soothing rub. Or, you can make a spray by adding 20-25 drops of eucalyptus oil to 300-ml of water. This can be used as a natural purifier, killing germs on most surfaces or throughout a room. Other mixtures can be valuable as antiseptics for wounds, boils, insect bites and lice—and these are just some of the many benefits. However, eucalyptus should always be used with caution. Applying undiluted oil on the skin may cause burning and skin irritation, so be sure to handle with care. It’s also recommended to use only a pure form of eucalyptus derived from the plant, always test for sensitivity and discuss with your healthcare provider before use. If redness or itching develops, you may want to try a less potent dilution or eliminate the use of the oil altogether. Keep eucalyptus away from your eyes and out of the reach of children. For the simplest of relaxation treatments, eucalyptus is always the perfect remedy. Enhance your well-being just by taking the time to breathe in this sensational gift from nature. myhawaiitraveler.com
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64 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 70 POKE 73 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 78 THE HOT SPOT 80 CULINARY Q&A 82 SUMMER WINES 84 JOY OF THE PARTY
TASTE OF HAWAI‘I 62
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.
KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience‌a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana. Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368.
Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy tropical breezes beckon. Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardZLQQLQJ à DYRUV IHDWXULQJ ORFDOO\ JURZQ SURGXFH 6DYRU WKH EHVW IURP WKH VXUI DQG WKH WXUI 'LQQHU VHUYHG QLJKWO\ IURP 5:30 to 8:30 pm. )RU UHVHUYDWLRQV FDOO RU YLVLW
COAST GRILLE At Coast Grille, Executive Chef, Peter Abarcar Jr and Chef de Cuisine, Vince Logan are passionate in the pursuit of the freshest island ingredients where sustainable, organic and wild ingredients are sourced to present, Island Seafood Gastronomy. Dine overlooking the breathtaking Pacific and indulge in the Coast Grille Oyster Bar featuring the freshest seafood including seasonal oysters with your choice of tempting sauces on the half shell or as a shooter. Also presented are local delicacies including Salt Water Poached Kona Abalone and Fresh Catch Poke, made to order. Located at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. For reservations call (808) 880-1111.
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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
7:08 pm The moment the conversation came to a standstill. Your order arrives. All eyes are transfixed on your dish. The conversation revolves around flavor, taste and freshness. And suddenly you realize you won’t be able to keep this place a secret for long. CALL 808 887 7368 VISIT FAIRMONT.COM/ORCHID-HAWAII
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COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525. KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com..
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SAVOR THE TRUE FLAVORS OF HAWAI‘I
KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com. MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810.
Best Tiki Bar ENJOY OUR HAND-CRAFTED
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HAPPY HOUR TWICE DAILY 3-6pm 9:30pm-Closing
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KIAWE SMOKED PRIME RIB Every Tuesday night Full dinner for $30.95
OPEN DAILY 11AM-11PM Air-Conditioned Outdoor balcony seating
808-880-9393 61-3642 Kawaihae Rd. Kawaihae, HI 96743
3 BIG SCREEN HDTVs All major sporting events NFL Football Package
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Live Music Thursday-Saturday HAND-TOSSED GOURMET PIZZA
NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000. NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. 67
OVER 20 BEERS ON TAP
Craft Beers, Fresh Foods, Sports and Superb Hospitality! TropicsAleHouse.com
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KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona 808-498-4507
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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PUEO'S OSTERIA Pueo’s Osteria is an inviting, Italian-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun environment. Chef James Babian focuses on the finest Italian products paired with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms (sourced locally whenever possible), including “farm-fresh” products from local farmers’ markets. Engaging service, approachable pricing, great flavors and food await at Pueo’s Osteria – Food, Wine & Fun … “where the night owls meet.” Happy hour daily from 4pm until 6pm, with dinner served nightly from 5:30pm, and a bar menu offered until midnight. Sunday Brunch from 8:30am until 2pm. Smart casual attire. Located in Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center in Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 339-7966 for reservations or visit PueosOsteria.com. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can 68
sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allan Nagun has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations.
THE KOA TABLE BY CHEF IPPY Chef Ippy Aiona’s lakeside restaurant features locally-sourced ingredients with Chef Ippy's brilliant execution, and is quickly becoming a popular spot for Hawai‘i diners. Chef Ippy was the youngest person to have been featured on the TV show Food Network Star (Season 8), and has received numerous accolades for his creative and innovative cuisine which mixes European cooking techniques with fresh local cuisine ingredients. Located at Kings’ Shops in Waikoloa Beach Resort. For reservations call (808) 339-7145. TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information.
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
TASTE ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000.
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KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets
are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949.
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WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM
POKE
(po-kay)
ACROSS THE USA 70
BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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ne of the many, many reasons we are lucky to live Hawaiÿi is that our much-loved seasoned raw fish dish known as poke is not only available daily, but is super fresh. You can find it in countless places all over the state from grocery stores, casual poke eateries and fancy sit-down restaurants to corner stores and beach potlucks. On the mainland, poke used to be a rare find, but in recent years, a taste for poke has traveled across the Pacific. It has spread beyond California and areas with high populations of Hawaiÿi transplants to become popular as far east as New York City and Washington, D.C. While some mainland poke shops stick to the basics, others are selling poke bowls that would be unrecognizable to many Hawaiÿi residents. In these bowls, it can be hard to locate the poke amid the abundant sides, garnishes, and beds of greens. In comparison to the more minimalistic poke bowls that are popular in Hawaiÿi and generally consist of poke, rice, and a side, these bowls often appear to be salads with poke as one of many toppings rather than the focal point. As people in Hawaiÿi have gained awareness of the mainland poke bowl craze, it has sparked discussion and debate. Not everyone is pleased to see the name of their beloved dish being used to label salad bowls that have strayed far away from what is considered a poke bowl here. There are also recipes floating around for “poke” made with other ingredients altogether such as cubes of watermelon instead of seafood. Some point out that modern Hawaiian food is already an amalgamation of many cultures’ cuisines and continues to evolve today. It’s true that what people in Hawaiÿi consider to be standard poke began with the Native Hawaiians, but has been influenced by other cultures. The history of Hawaiian poke that people know and love today overlaps with the larger history of Hawaiÿi. In Hawaiian, the word “poke” simply means to cut into pieces or chunks.
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Native Hawaiians made what is considered to be the original poke by cutting up reef fish caught near the shore and seasoning it with limu (seaweed) and ÿinamona, a seasoning made with crushed roasted kukui nuts and sea salt. With Western contact, onions were introduced to Hawaiÿi. Soy sauce and sesame oil arrived with the waves of immigrants from Japan and China who came to work on the sugar cane and pineapple plantations in the 1800s. With the fusion of various elements brought to Hawaiÿi from abroad and more access to tuna due to advances in fishing, poke evolved. It is believed that the style of poke that is currently popular arose in the 1970s. Many poke variations exist in the Aloha State today. You can find sweet or spicy poke, poke made with the traditional limu and ÿinamona seasonings, poke with creamy mayonnaisebased sauces, and poke made with other types of seafood such as octopus and crab. With so many options available and so many places where you can eat poke, it can be difficult for visitors to decide where to try it. The casual poke eateries can be a good place to start. At such places, you will find several types of poke. If you’re unsure of what to order, they often allow you to sample different varieties before you decide on one. As it often happens with cherished local dishes, there are debates on the Big Island about who does poke best. In Kona, two names that are often up for debate are Da Poke Shack and Umekes Poke Bowls and Local Style Lunch Bowls. In 2014, Yelp declared Da Poke Shack’s Kailua-Kona location to be No. 1 on its list of the “Top 100 Places to Eat in the US.” Some people believe that the spotlight on this unassuming little poke spot helped bring national attention to poke and contributed to the eventual mainland poke trend. Da Poke Shack has another location in Captain Cook in addition to the one in Kailua-Kona. Both spots serve poke in a local setting where you order inside and eat outside at picnic tables. 71
At poke shops like this, poke bowls commonly consist of a poke of your choice, brown or white rice, and a choice of one side. Can’t decide what type of poke you want? Da Poke Shack allows you to choose two kinds for your bowl. Even with Da Poke Shack’s Yelp honor a few years ago, many believe that Umekes has the best poke in town. It has two locations in Kailua-Kona. Umekes in Aliÿi Plaza in the center of town is a typical small poke shop with outdoor seating. Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill is a newer location that stays open later than a regular poke shop and offers a larger sit-down restaurant space that maintains a casual and local feel. In addition to poke bowls served in eye-pleasing bamboo bowls, Umekes Fishmarket Bar and Grill location has a larger menu and a full bar with creative cocktail options. Both indoor and outdoor seating are available. In a casual, upscale beachfront environment at Four Seasons Hualälai Resort, Beach Tree offers “Tsunami Poke” in which the chefs deliciously combine crab and the fresh local catch of the day with cucumber, avocado, sriracha sauce, furikake (a Japanese seasoning), mayonnaise, and lime. It is served with a side of white or brown rice and seaweed salad. And at ‘ULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge, also located at Four Seasons, a unique and interactive poke experience offers ingredients that draw from both old and new poke traditions. Freshly cut ÿahi is brought out alongside kukui nut, ogo (seaweed), Maui onions, ÿalaea (Hawaiian 72
sea salt), white shoyu (soy sauce), and sesame oil. Guests are able to select the ingredients they prefer and enjoy poke customized to their taste. Further north, up on the Kohala Coast, ÿahi poke is served with crispy seaweed and pickled vegetables at the Fairmont Orchid’s Luana Lounge, and can be enjoyed with gorgeous ocean views and a tropical cocktail in hand. If you’re looking for poke to eat on your way to or from Waipiÿo Valley, the recently opened Fish & Poi Co. offers poke as well as poi made from taro grown in the valley. On the Hilo side, popular spots for poke include Suisan Fish Market and Poke to Your Taste. Poke is sold by weight at grocery stores around the Big Island, and buying a container to take to the beach for a picnic lunch or a sunset snack is always a good option. As trends come and go, beloved dishes such as poke endure and tell stories. When we take a moment to learn those stories, it can enhance our appreciation for both the dish and the culture that it comes from, and it shows respect to cultures that are borrowed from. It’s unclear whether the mainland poke boom is here to stay, but there is no doubt that poke will remain a staple here in Hawaiÿi for the foreseeable future. Enjoying freshly made poke with a view of the ocean that provided it is beautiful, tasty, and offers the ultimate sense of place. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
WORDS BROOKE REHMANN
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WHAT WE LOVE NOW
ENDLESS LOVE
PHOTO COURTESY: FAIRMONT ORCHID HAWAI'I
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ave you ever found yourself at a sushi restaurant overwhelmed by the amount of irresistible options, and wished you could order them all? Norio’s Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar, located at the exceptional Fairmont Orchid, features an offer for sushi aficionados that is almost too good to be true. With their Endless Sushi menu, guests who want it all can sample Norio’s delectable sushi creations to their heart’s content without breaking the bank. One of the most popular rolls is the Red Dragon, featuring crunchy and juicy shrimp tempura and meaty pieces of ÿahi (Hawaiian yellowfin tuna) draped over the top. The Sunset Roll comes with all the colors of its namesake, and tastes as delicious as it looks. This excellent special even includes more modern, luxurious selections like the indulgent Grilled Lobster, featuring Kampachi, cucumber, spicy jalapeño, and lobster, or The Paniolo, with marinated wagyu beef, mushroom, foie gras, and truffle powder for the ultimate sushi treat. Each meal comes with miso soup to start and a scoop of ice cream to end, but the sushi is the real star of this exceptional value. No matter what you’re craving, the Endless Sushi menu allows you to try everything you desire. Norio’s Japanese Steakhouse & Sushi Bar is located garden-side at the Fairmont Orchid, within the Mauna Lani Resort Area. The Endless Sushi menu is available for $55 per person, along with an endless hot sake add-on for an extra $15 per person. For more information about their menu, visit www.fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii/dining/ noriosjapanesesteakhousesushibar/ or call (808) 887-7368 to make reservations.
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MEET & GREET CULINARY SUPERSTARS
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oodies who like to rub elbows with celebrity chefs can meet and mingle with their culinary heroes at Chef Fest—a series of bespoke dining events like no other held at the incomparable Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. This food and wine celebration features tempting feasts as well as intimate, interactive cooking demonstrations by world-renowned chefs. No matter what type of food experience you prefer—hands-on or hands-off— Chef Fest has an array of fantastic options. Coupled with the stunning Four Seasons Resort Hualälai as the backdrop and impeccable service, Chef Fest is one of the most memorable food and wine experiences the Aloha State has to offer. The culinary greats featured at Chef Fest represent some of the best in the field. Attending will be Andy Ricker of the famous Pok Pok empire, where he features thoughtfully prepared Thai dishes using traditional ingredients and methods. Culinary giant Jonathan Waxman, a pioneer of California cuisine, and of New York City’s Barbuto and Jams, Adele’s, Bajo Sexto Taco, and Bajo Sexto Taco Lounge of Nashville, and Waxman’s in San Francisco will also 74
be present, where guests can enjoy his focus on fresh, local ingredients coupled with French cooking techniques. Joining them are Ivan Orkin, of Ivan Ramen in New York City, where he celebrates traditional Japanese ramen recipes that have taken the culinary world by storm, and Gabrielle Hamilton, chef/ owner of Prune in New York City, winner of the 2011 James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: NYC. Also in the star lineup is Edward Lee, chef/owner of 610 Magnolia, The Wine Studio, MilkWood and Whiskey Dry in Louisville, Kentucky, and culinary director of Succotash in National Harbor, Maryland and Washington, D.C., and is a four-time James Beard Foundation finalist for Best Chef: Southeast. Chef Lee’s focus on a modern take of Southern cuisine has won him acclaim across the country. Brilliant chef Neal Fraser of Redbird, Vibiana, Fritzi Coop, and Fritzi in Los Angeles will highlight his approachable take on modern American cooking, incorporating the diverse cultures of Los Angeles into cravable cuisine. Last, and certainly not least, are the super talented BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI
chefs from the Four Seasons family including Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s Executive Chef Thomas Bellec, who fuses his French background with an international culinary perspective. Fabrizio Schenardi, from the Four Seasons Resort Orlando, Disney World Resort, and Christof Syré, executive chef of the Four Seasons Resort and Club Dallas at Las Colinas, will share their international perspective on dining with delightful creations. It’s not just food that will be celebrated at Chef Fest, but also drinks. Mixologists will be on hand, highlighting the various wines and cocktails that successfully complement the delectable cuisine. Guests can join master Mixologists Julie Reiner, Pamela Wiznitzer, Chandra Lucariello, and Kyle Reutner in interactive mixology and wine tasting events. Not to be missed is a rare wine tasting class with Don Weaver of Napa Valley’s esteemed Harlan Estate. When looking to chart your experience, each event is individually priced so that you’re able to pick and choose the activities most interesting to myhawaiitraveler.com
you. Options include a Grand Tasting where each chef features small bites at action stations, allowing guests to sample the different flavors and techniques of each chef. There’s also a VIP After Hours, where guests and chefs mingle. You can even join a paddling session, where guests and chefs paddle, either on an outrigger canoe or stand-up paddleboard, on the beautiful Hawaiian waters. Finally, the event culminates with an incredible Gala Dinner, bringing an end to the celebration of food and wine in impressive style. No matter which tasteful event you’re looking to experience—whether it’s an enchanting evening dining beachside under the stars or a more intimate cooking demonstration, Chef Fest’s choose-your-ownculinary-adventure is one you won’t soon forget. Chef Fest is October 4th – 7th at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. Each event is priced individually. For more information about each event, visit cheffesthualalai.com. To reserve tickets to each event, call the resort’s concierge at (808) 325-8000. 75
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HAPPY TIMES
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hether you just finished a long day at work or spent a hard day playing tourist, pau hana, or after work, at the Seafood Bar & Grill in downtown Kawaihae is the place to go to get happy with good food and drinks. And with not just one pau hana special, but two, early birds and night owls are both able to take advantage of discounted drinks and ÿono (delicious) püpü (appetizers). With wines and mai tais available for $5, house margaritas and 14 oz. draft beers for $4, including local Kona Brewing Co. selections, there’s a drink for almost everyone in your crew. The $9 püpü selection features crunchy coconut shrimp, fried calamari, seafood quesadillas, and spicy chicken wings, and are the perfect option for an early dinner or late-night snack. Whether you just spent a short day at the beach or a long day at work, sitting in Seafood Bar & Grill’s tiki bar atmosphere and talking story with friends and visitors is a fun way to wrap up another spectacular day in paradise. Seafood Bar & Grill is located behind the harbor in downtown Kawaihae, and offers pau hana specials daily from 3pm to 6pm and again from 9:30pm to close. For more information, including their menu and drink specials, visit their website at www.seafoodbarandgrill.com/pau-hana/ or call (808) 880-9393.
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CUISINES OF THE SUN
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nother Big Island food event not to miss is Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Return of Cuisines of the Sun at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. Six high-profile chefs including Hawaiÿi’s own Alan Wong, one of the founding members of the Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine movement, will create a stunning six-course menu highlighting the cuisines and wines of sunny climates around the world. The festival has assembled a luminary lineup to join Chef Wong: Robert Del Grande of Cafe Annie in Houston, TX, a James Beard Award Winner of Best Chefs in America who is known for his enticing, award-winning Southwestern dishes like Crab Tostada, Rabbit Enchiladas, Black Bean Terrine, and Cilantro Mussel Soup. Dean Fearing of Fearing’s Restaurant located in The Ritz-Carlton, Dallas literally wrote the book on Texas' cuisine when he authored the Texas Food Bible. Staying true to his southern roots, Chef Fearing uses recipes from his childhood in Kentucky, and couples them with a splash of local Texas produce such as tomatillos, peppers, and dried chilies. François Payard of Payard, New York, NY, brings with him his Southern French perspective to the event. Raised as a third generation French pastry chef, Chef Payard has worked in some of France’s most prestigious kitchens, even creating dessert menus worthy of three Michelin stars. Mark Peel of Prawn in Los Angeles is considered one of the founders of the California cuisine movement. Born and raised in Los Angeles, he has been mentored by storied California-centric chefs such as Wolfgang Puck and Alice Waters of Chez Panisse. Co-founder of La Brea Bakery with Nancy Silverton, Chef Peel’s current restaurant, Prawn, highlights seafood using fresh, seasonal ingredients. Also appearing is Big Island’s own Jayson myhawaiitraveler.com
Kanekoa of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. Committed to using the best of the Big Island’s produce, Chef Kanekoa works closely with farmers to receive exclusive products to his resort. He is also a two-time winner of the Aloha Week Festival Poke Competition Grand Champion. Previously, the Cuisines of the Sun event was held each year on the Big Island, and it featured Chef Wong and others as they highlighted our island’s bounty. This year’s experience seeks to “return” this event to its rightful place—our sunny island, smack center in a food movement making itself known around the world. Diners should expect to see the unique and delicious produce of our island featured throughout the dinner, as well as thoughtfully selected wine pairings provided by Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits of Hawaiÿi. Each chef prepares their own course, and each dish will be a feast for the senses—truly a night to remember. VIP access is available before the meal with an exclusive cocktail hour reception, as well as VIP tables close to the action. For those looking for an indulgent, gratifying evening, Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Return of Cuisines of the Sun is the ticket. Hawaiÿi Food & Wine Festival’s Return of Cuisines of the Sun is on Saturday, October 28th at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa. Tickets are available for $250, with special VIP access for $500. For more information about the event, or to purchase tickets, visit www. hawaiifoodandwinefestival.com/schedule/day-4-saturday-october-28-2017/ return-cuisines-sun. 77
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HOT SPOT
PUEO'S OSTERIA
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ver get that craving when you’re on vacation for a hearty, delicious homecooked meal? Pueo’s Osteria, located within Waikoloa Village, has been serving up comforting, homestyle Italian meals in a vibrant atmosphere for the past four years. Named after the endemic Hawaiian short-eared owl, Pueo’s also lives up to the lifestyle of its namesake with a late night menu for all the night owls fluttering around the island. Using only the best ingredients from the Big Island and beyond, Pueo’s is the perfect place to grab a satisfying, delicious feast any time of the evening. Always striving for excellence, Pueo’s motto is “Regional. Seasonal. Artisanal.” This philosophy of chef/owner James Babian translates to serving satiating homecooked meals with hard to source highend ingredients. Using local products from around the Big Island, Pueo’s also flies in the best global products, such as Sicilian anchovies and two-year-old Parmesan cheese fresh off the boat from EmeliaRomagna. The chef and his team also make all of their pastas from scratch in-house. They even chronicle all of the pasta making fun on Instagram, where they also post their daily board specials for guests who want to know what’s cooking on any given day. All of these steps 78
WORDS BROOKE REHMANN
that Pueo’s takes to enhance the dining experience coalesces into a yummy, homey meal—without all the tedious prep work and added chore of doing the dishes at the end of the night so you can really take pleasure in enjoying your food. Adding to the inviting, relaxed vibe is the welcoming and cheerful staff. Providing thoughtful, attentive service without being too overbearing or aloof, the wait staff manages to find the ideal sweet spot of helpfulness that adds to the enjoyment of the overall dining experience. Need help selecting the perfect wine pairing for a dish? What about deciding between menu favorites and special offerings? The staff is there to help you navigate these seriously tough choices! At the end of the meal, you can’t help but feel that you’re part of Pueo’s ÿohana (family). To start your meal, diners can’t go wrong with the Bruschetta, featuring fresh juicy strawberries, tangy Hämäkua goat cheese, drizzled with aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar), and topped with basil. The Salumi Board highlights delicious charcuterie from Italy, including prosciutto, salami, capocollo, mortadella, as well as some yummy cheeses. For dinner, a favorite among regulars is the Veal BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: PUEO'S OSTERIA
Parmesan, which features Provimi veal that is pounded thin, then lightly breaded and baked with Parmesan and mozzarella. It is served alongside house-made fettuccine and a zesty marinara sauce. The Cannelloni, featuring organic free-range chicken, ricotta, sundried tomato, spinach, besciamella (white sauce), mozzarella, and pecorino cheese is an indulgent, creamy dish that you’ll end up craving sooner than later. Pueo’s also features specials throughout the year, including quarterly regional food and wine dinners, where a particular region is celebrated through its cuisine. Recently, Pueo’s celebrated the region of Sicily, and will be highlighting the Piedmont and Tuscany regions this fall. Pueo’s even has a late night dining and drinks menu that’s worth staying up for, which is a rare find on the Big Island. Whether your flight got in late or you’re just getting back from an epic adventure at fiery Kïlauea or stargazing on mighty Mauna Kea, Pueo’s is the only place open late night on the entire Kohala Coast, perfect for those needing the extra time to work up an appetite. Build your own pizzas, healthy salads, fresh crudo, chicken parm sandwiches, and several other options can be found on their late night menu. To make things myhawaiitraveler.com
even better, Pueo’s also features specials on particular nights, such as Flatbread Mondays and Tuscan burger Wednesdays. With so many tempting options, staying up late never tasted so good. No matter what time of evening you’re craving a tasty, satisfying meal in a warm, welcoming atmosphere, Pueo’s is the place to go. Whether you’re a night owl, an early bird, or someone in between, Pueo’s is the place to go if you are looking for the trifecta of dining out—delicious food, great vibe and excellent service. Pueo’s Osteria is located within the Waikoloa Village Highlands Center in Waikoloa Village, serving dinner daily from 5pm until 9pm. They offer Early Owl specials between 5pm and 6pm daily, the bar menu from 5pm to midnight Monday through Saturday, and until 10pm on Sundays. Late Night Happy Hour is from 9:30pm to midnight. For more information about their menu, and to see upcoming special events, visit their website at www.pueososteria.com. To make reservations, call (808) 339-7566. And to see the daily specials, view them @pueososteria on Instagram.
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EXECUTIVE CHEF THOMAS BELLEC
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What initially sparked your passion for food? My grandparents owned a very famous boulangerie/pâtisserie in my hometown of Concarneau in Brittany, and I always loved going in the back and eating all the pastries and chocolates. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI
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CULINARY Q&A
Recently, the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai welcomed their new executive chef, Thomas Bellec, to helm their culinary team. Originally hailing from the Brittany region of France, Chef Bellec began his career under the wing of mentor Chef Henri Gaonac’h at Michelin-starred Le Galion in the town of Concarneau. Since then, he has worked at many different Four Seasons Resorts around the world from Uruguay and Toronto to Beverly Hills, and even the Four Seasons’ sister properties on the island of Läna‘i. Mastering his craft even further and adding international influence during his stint at each location, he brings with him a passion for fresh local ingredients and a global food perspective skillfully prepared. Chef Bellec’s approach is not to overdo his creations, but to complement nature’s flavors and let the ingredients shine. Food aficionados are lucky to experience the delicious menu offerings by the talented chef throughout Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s popular eateries.
Though you’ve worked as a chef at resorts and restaurants around the world, this isn’t your first time cooking in Hawaiÿi, having previously worked at the Four Seasons Resorts Läna‘i. What makes the Hawaiian Islands so special from a culinary perspective? The farm to table culture. I love being able to go and pick my ingredients in the morning and go back to the kitchen and cook them for dinner. I also enjoy the amazing variety of products available to us here in Hawaiÿi. I was collecting my own sea salt recently and we are growing our own oysters here at the resort—I am a very lucky chef! What aspects of the food scene in Hawaiÿi were you most excited to experience again? The Asian fusion—I always have been attracted to the Japanese cuisine and all the flavors of Asia. Here in Hawaiÿi, I am able to use all of the Hawaiian produce, and balance them with a few Asian flavors. How does your home country of France, and even more specifically, the Brittany region, influence the type of cuisine that you create? Born and raised on the ocean, I knew how to clean and eat a crab or an oyster before I knew how to walk. I love cooking seafood, and the Hawaiian water offers some of the best seafood in the world to work with. I have not worked with abalone that tender and tasty since my apprenticeship at the one Michelin-starred restaurant Le Galion I was working at. What is your earliest food memory? My earliest food memory I have is of having Brittany Blue Lobster lunch every Sunday at my grandparents’ house. And back then, my sister and I were complaining that we were eating the same thing every week! Now I wish I could have some more. What’s the one food item you can’t live without? A nice chocolate croissant, freshly baked and still warm. Everywhere around the world I go, we have to find the best pâtisserie with a great chocolate croissant.
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What do you consider to be your signature dish, or must-try? Here at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, we do have a wide range of dining options from Italian at Beach Tree to Hawaiian-Asian fusion at ‘ULU. But I think the dish I am the proudest of will be the Hawaiian Kampachi crudo sashimi with a coconut and kaffir lime broth, ogo seaweed & radish salad, with a calamansi & finger lime vinaigrette. What is your favorite local ingredient, and what makes it so special? I love to work with all the different types of citrus we get here on the Big Island, from finger limes, kumquats, to calamansi, etc. The different colors and flavor combination it brings to your dish is incredible! If we were to take a peek into your refrigerator/pantry, what is the most surprising ingredient we’d find? Ha! So funny because here in Hawaiÿi you have SPAM and in Brittany I have the Pâté ‘Hénaff. I always have a can in my fridge with some small sour cornichons that my mom ships to me regularly. Which farmers markets do you go to? How do they inspire you? I pretty much go every two weeks to the Waimea Farmers Market on Saturdays. It’s a good opportunity for me to catch up with my suppliers, but also grab a huli-huli chicken for lunch from GJ’s on the side of the road—the best in town! What can guests look forward to when dining at your restaurants at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai? In what ways will you put your stamp on the menu? Cooking is my passion and I am always looking to transmit that passion and knowledge to the guests. In my cuisine, the freshest local ingredients are showcased, and if you are using already the best and freshest ingredients available you don’t have to transform them too much. To experience Executive Chef Bellec’s cuisine, visit the restaurants located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. For more information about the various restaurants and menus, visit www.fourseasons.com/hualalai/ or call (808) 325-8000 to make dinner reservations. Parking is complimentary to nonhotel guests dining on property. 81
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SIPPING THROUGH THE SEASON Whether you are hosting a party for two or twenty, these wines are bottled happiness. WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO
Winter is the time of year to indulge in a wine with complexity as we sit leisurely next to a crackling fire or swirl an intricately layered glass with a comforting meal shared with friends. As the temperatures begin to dip, winter is when we tend to reach for bigger, bolder wines with higher alcohol contents, and that is why big reds and fullbodied whites can be the perfect selection to enjoy during the colder season.
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Australian Shiraz
Australian Shiraz is a fruit-forward red wine that is known for the generous amount of fruit flavors within each glass and for the friendliness of the wine—being both easy to drink and easy to pair with food. Also known as Syrah in France and other parts of the world, Shiraz flourishes in Australia’s climate where the grapes reach peak maturity resulting in robust, heavy-hitting wines known for their intense flavors of blackberry and plums. When looking for a distinctive bottle of Shiraz to share with friends, the 2014 John Duval “Entity” Shiraz from Barossa Valley in South Australia ($29.95 per bottle; klwines.com) packs a wallop of the dark berry and plum flavors Shiraz is known for. Made from old vines and aged in French oak for 15 months, this wine offers a velvety texture meant to be savored with a piece of braised leg of lamb generously flavored with rosemary and thyme or roasted root vegetables topped with sprinklings of parmesan cheese.
Italian Nebbiolo
Known as the “wine of kings”, Italian Nebbiolo is a study of tenuous balance—being full-bodied, yet translucent, and offering a delicate nose yet bursting with intense amounts of tannins and acidity on the palate, Nebbiolo never fails to deliver. Flavors of rose petals, raspberries, and cherry intermingle with aromas of leather, tar, and turned soil in an unimaginable and hedonistically pleasing experience that only an Italian Nebbiolo can create. For an Italian Nebbiolo to share at your next gathering, the 2012 Cavallotto Langhe Nebbiolo ($28.99 per bottle, wine.com) can be the perfect option to be enjoyed with a wide variety of food. The wine opens with a feminine floral bouquet balanced with all the fruit and leather characteristics to be expected of good Nebbiolo wine. Inviting and open, this is an exceptional wine to enjoy with a charcuterie platter
laden with finely aged prosciutto, slices of hard cheeses, and fatty sausages served alongside mustard or enjoyed with a main course of mushroom ragù topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Whites of Northern Rhone
Winter is the time to ditch the higher acid whites we sip throughout the year and truly tuck in with a mature, full-bodied white wine with enough octane to pair with the heavier dishes of the season. Whites from the Northern Rhône region of France can be hard to come by, but are the perfect additions to a winter table for the uncommon flavors they bring to each meal and for their full, voluptuous bodies able to stand side-by-side to most any red wine. From Northern Rhône, the varietals of Marsanne and Roussanne are two of the most popular white grapes to be enjoyed and are often blended together to create rich symphonies of flavor. Both grapes originated in the Northern Rhône region and offer flavors ranging from spiced pears to honeyed hazelnut pairing delectably with appetizers or rich cream sauces. Both Northern Rhône varietals have gained critical acclaim over the past decade and outcroppings of both grapes can be found throughout the world. The 2015 Tablas Creek “Côtes de Tablas Blanc” out of Paso Robles, California ($27.99 per bottle, klwines.com) offers a stellar New World approach to these Old World grapes. Highly perfumed and elegant with aromas of chamomile, white pears, and orchard fruits grace each glass while a bouquet of white flowers lingers in the background. Whether sipping tranquilly fireside or sharing a glass with family and friends, these robust reds and full-bodied whites will surely bring happiness to nearly every winter soirée you enjoy this season.
Selecting Value Wines for a Crowd
Try a smaller wine house. Rather than reaching for a wine from a well-known label, take a chance with an up-and-coming house that might not be demanding the same price tag (for now) as other established brands. If you choose to reach for a discounted bottle, be sure to choose stores that are reputable and are known to properly store bottles to avoid purchasing ‘cooked’ or spoiled wines. Be open to trying a blend. Single varietal bottles can come with a heftier price tag than blends, but blends can be the unsung hero of the wine aisle—they can be harmonious and delicious when different grapes blend effortlessly for a sip-able wine! myhawaiitraveler.com
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THE JOY OF PARTY PLANNING
Make your next big celebration a WanderFull event. WORDS BROOKE REHMANN
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ife is full of magical moments, but orchestrating them can sometimes be overwhelming and complicated. And here on the Big Island, blessed with stunning scenery, an endless summer climate, bountiful produce and exemplary cuisine, life is meant to be celebrated. With a backdrop this paradisiacal, it’s no surprise that so many people choose our island for their weddings, anniversaries, corporate parties, and everything in between. For those looking to host once-in-alifetime moments that your guests will never forget, Joy Dreimann of WanderFull Adventures is the help you’re looking for. Recently, I sat down with Joy to discuss some of her more memorable celebrations, as well as tips for those looking to host the most epic Big Island soirées this side of the Pacific.
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Joy started WanderFull Adventures, a VIP event planning service, more than a year ago, after deciding to use her experience as a member of the Women’s Board of the Goodman Theater in Chicago planning fundraisers and fabulous events for the venue. Her attention for detail, creativity, and eye for design helped sculpt notable moments for the theater. Having spent many years visiting the Big Island, once she settled into the island as her home, she knew she could use these skills to make a difference. Instilling this love of fundraising and event planning to her two daughters, Joy has provided mentorship in a variety of fundraising activities as a former board member of the Hualälai ÿOhana Foundation. From helping to raise money through golf cart washes, Zumbathons, paint runs, recycling campaigns, and BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
a variety of other activities, Joy and her family have pulled off intricate events complete with multiple moving parts. These valuable experiences along with Joy being a guest herself at countless amazing parties all over the globe taking mental, visual notes have helped set the stage for her newest role as event planner extraordinaire. One of Joy’s guiding principles is to help clients be a guest at their own party. And to do this, Joy steps in to take care of all the details so that you don’t have to. For the resident who wants to throw a milestone birthday party, or an unforgettable New Year’s Eve celebration; for the visitor who is looking to set up spectacular corporate events that their clients will be talking about for years, or the dream wedding worthy of a bridal magazine spread, Joy has successfully and beautifully navigated these waters. Whether you’re looking to host wine tastings, family reunions, golf events, educational speakers, themed dinners, and beyond, Joy steps in to take the reigns so that you can experience maximum enjoyment with minimum stress. And, most likely, it will be even better than you imagined. But what makes an event successful? First, she says, successful events require three decisions at the beginning—the venue, the food, and the entertainment. Once those three components are lined up, planning the remainder of the details is a snap. Fortunately for us here on the Big Island, we have an abundance of beautiful settings to choose from—from resorts and beaches to mountainside vistas and everywhere in between. And with so much bountiful produce and talented chefs, selecting the best dining options is a delicious challenge—plus, she will go the distance to get any specialty gourmet items that aren’t readily available here. And, Joy has a long list of entertainers in her contact list, and can help all her clients select the best entertainment options for their event. After the three most important selections are made, then the theme and décor can be chosen. Are you looking for an island-inspired evening? Joy includes custom florals and exceptional lei, talented fire and knife dancers, hula dancers, as well as local cuisine options on the menu. Are you in the mood for a Survivor-style or a Chopped-inspired food-cooking contest? What if you are thinking more along the lines of a pool party or a birthday to remember? Joy has experience with it all. She takes your special occasion and takes it to the next level, making your celebration one for the books. Combined with her attention to the smallest details, she helps her clients select the most appropriate options for each individual that she works with to truly make the event about them and to ensure guests enjoy themselves. Maintaining open and respectful lines of communication helps navigate each event in a way that ensures every client’s voice is heard and wishes are implemented. Whether you’re looking to be hands-on or hands-off, Joy delivers on point. All combined, Joy’s extensive experience on the mainland of organizing successful events, both large and small, meeting deadlines, providing thoughtful and interesting suggestions, maintaining open communication, and being the representative for her clients here on the ground, have launched WanderFull Adventures towards success. Fortunately for those who are visiting our island for business or pleasure, or those lucky enough to call this place home, Joy’s services are ideal for anyone looking for someone who dots each i and crosses each t, and takes the job of event planning with the utmost importance. With such an ample array of options to choose from, and with the stunning canvas of the Big Island as your backdrop, you’re next party should be as extraordinary as you are—and fun. For more information about WanderFull Adventures and to see examples of Joy’s work, visit www.wanderfulladventures.com or find them on Instagram @wanderfulladventures. You can contact Joy directly at (847) 502-0774 or joydreimann@gmail.com. myhawaiitraveler.com
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ADVENTURE
ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawai‘i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the world’s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 86
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EXPLORE OUR KONA AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS
Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.
SAFARI HELICOPTERS
Soar directly to the Kilauea Volcanic System to view the current activity, which may include cinder cones and spectacular fiery lava lakes. View the Lava Tree Forest and the waterfalls among the Wailuku River and Hilo Bay. A family-owned company, Safari Helicopters was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Navel Reserve and one of Hawai‘i’s most experienced pilots. Preston has, over the years, built his company and reputation on the sound principles of safety, professionalism and innovation-always striving to offer the latest in state-of-the-art equipment to assure passengers of an unsurpassable and unforgettable helicopter “safari.” Preston wants Safari passengers to fully enjoy their adventure, but he considers safety of the utmost importance. He holds to the axiom “there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots,” and he requires that all his Safari pilots adhere to the same high standards of professionalism that he personally carried out over the years. Visit online at safarihelicopters.com for a great discount or call (800) 326-3356.
LESS THAN ONE PERCENT OF THE WORLD’S POPULATION HAS EXPLORED 100 FEET BENEATH THE OCEAN. THIS GUY DOES IT ALL THE TIME. JOIN THE CLUB.
SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS
Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.
EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL
Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com. myhawaiitraveler.com
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MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES
Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com.
SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES
An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 87
ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES
All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.
FAIR WIND CRUISES
Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.
MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES
Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.
SNORKEL BOB’S
Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 88
the week (Reg. $29). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.
ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE
Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.
ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU
A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.
HULIHE‘E PALACE
Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.
PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU
Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the
tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.
LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK
Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.
PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD
View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.
PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU
Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.
EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK
Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.
BANYAN DRIVE
Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.
HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.
HILO FARMERS MARKET
One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.
KAPOHO TIDE POOLS
A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
Mauna Lani Sea Adventures
Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!
property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.
MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER
This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.
Book your adventure today!
(808) 885-7883
Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com
Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities
PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM
Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.
PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO
This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.
kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands
RAINBOW FALLS
The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.
Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.
WAIPI‘O VALLEY
Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. myhawaiitraveler.com
•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738
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ISLAND -ofCHAMPIONS Training in paradise for the fit and focused. WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM
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Big Island can push the boundaries of a triathlete’s endurance. Despite the challenges Kona presents, over 2,000 determined athletes gather yearly in Kona to participate in the Ironman World Championship. In the waning days of summer and the early fall, Kona is buzzing with triathlon spirit as the athletes arrive ahead of the race to acclimate to the conditions of the Big Island. On the day of the competition, participants and observers gather at Kailua Pier before dawn as the race kicks off with the open water swim. When they get out of the water, the triathletes get on their bikes to head up to Hawi on the northernmost tip of the Big Island, and back down to Kona. Back in Kona, they begin their marathon run around the town. The first finishers complete the race in the afternoon, but participants have until midnight—17 hours—to complete the race. While some love the excitement of seeing the winning pros finish in the afternoon, others feel that the excitement increases in the later part of the day as more Age Group triathletes complete the race. As people cross the finish line, you can hear the booming voice of the announcer exclaiming, “You! Are! An Ironman!” In the late hours of the night, spectators may begin to see themselves in the people completing the race, and it’s hard to not feel inspired by the resilience, drive, and dedication on display. For those who are looking for an even more extreme test of endurance than the 140.6-mile Ironman competition, the Big Island hosts another triathlon in the fall called Ultraman. It’s a three-day competition with a 6.2-mile swim, a 261.4-mile bike ride, and a 52.4-mile run, covering 320 miles altogether. This race occurs yearly on Thanksgiving weekend, and this year, it will occur on November 24 to 26. As much of America BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM (ALL)
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he Big Island is inherently a land of extremes. It’s a place where you can visit a snow-capped mountain and a balmy beach on the same day. It’s a place where sizzling hot lava clashes with a wild and relentless ocean. It’s a place of remote valleys and untamed landscapes that can only be reached on foot. So it’s not surprising that the island is an attractive place for people who enjoy pushing boundaries, including those who put their physical and mental capacities to the test while excelling in not just one athletic area, but three. Triathlons are big on the Big Island, and it is home to one of the top swimming, biking, and running endurance competitions in the world— the Ironman World Championship. The competition is held annually in October, with this year’s race scheduled for October 14. Ironman began on Oÿahu in 1978. After a debate about what type of athlete was the best, Judy and John Collins, a Navy couple based in Oÿahu at the time, had the idea to combine three endurance competitions into one race. The race consisted of a 2.4-mile open water swim, followed by a 112-mile bike ride, rounded out by a 26.2-mile run—a full marathon. Fifteen people participated the first year, and the seeds were planted for what has expanded into a worldwide series of competitions. Three years after the first race in Honolulu, Ironman moved to Kona. Ironman competitions are now held around the globe on six continents, but the World Championship remains in Kona. While the Big Island has less population density to contend with than Oÿahu, triathletes have to persist through conditions brought on by the island’s landscapes. David Wild, a triathlete based in Kona notes that the wind on the northwest side of the Big Island can be “brutal during long bike rides” and the humidity and sun-absorbing lava fields of the
is recovering from Thanksgiving indulgences, 40 triathletes will be circling the island, using only the power of their own bodies. While many people visit the Big Island from around the world to participate in triathlons, there is a community of triathletes who’ve made the island their home base. Some of them were drawn to the island because of the strong triathlon culture. Teacher and triathlete Kristin Old has participated in two half Ironman (Ironman 70.3) competitions and six full Ironman competitions, including three world championships. She used to vacation on the Big Island to watch Ironman, and she eventually decided to move to the island. On the Big Island, she can swim in the open water, bike over 100 miles with few interruptions, and enjoy “365 days of awesome weather” as she trains. Others grew to love triathlons after arriving on the Big Island. Konabased triathlete Sara Bloom said that she didn’t initially come to the Big Island for triathlons, but joining the triathlon community has played a role in her staying on the island. “This community has become my family here in the middle of the Pacific,” said Bloom. As she is 5,000 miles away from her family, she values the ability to get together with other triathletes on holidays at events such as the (Tri)ptophan Turkey Day Triathlon on Thanksgiving. David Wild has completed eight half Ironman Triathlons and will participate in a full Ironman Triathlon for the first time in 2017. He came to Kona as part of a teaching program, and in addition to the heritage and culture of the island, triathlons made the Big Island an attractive place to live. “I chose Kona as I knew it would allow me to participate in the sport I love almost every day,” said Wild. While the hot weather of the Big Island can make it difficult to reach peak performance while training, Wild notes that a benefit of living in Kona is having the Ironman course available at all times. Bloom finds inspiration for triathlon training in the beautiful landscapes of the Big Island. As she practices swimming, she may get a glimpse of “twirling dolphins” or see “the occasional manta ray swim by.” She is able to bike regularly on the Ironman World Championship course with views of Mount Hualälai, Mauna Kea, and breaching whales in the distance during whale season. Some triathletes living in Kona have also worked to train and inspire new generations of triathletes. Wild started a triathlon club at Konawaena High School. Noticing a need for improved biking skills, he established partnerships with the local triathlon community to provide students with bikes, bike safety courses, and other assistance. Bloom has taught swimming lessons to local youth with the goal of having them compete at LavaKids, the youth branch of the annual LavaMan Triathlon. Kristin Old started the WaveRider Tri Club at Kealakehe High School with a desire to get local kids involved in the sport that has one of its biggest competitions in their backyard. She believes that participating in triathlons teaches students that “they can always dig deeper and be better.” Perhaps that is a major part of the appeal for both triathlon participants and spectators of all ages—the opportunity to learn that you are capable of more than you know. myhawaiitraveler.com
SARA BLOOM KRISTIN OLD
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DESTINATIONS
EAST HAWAI‘I
FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA
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escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty.
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Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting
waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
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MOONWALKING IN VOLCANO A day to remember exploring Madame Pele’s dwelling. WORDS COCO ZICKOS
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olcano is unlike anywhere else in the world. Unique to the Big Island, it’s a community that’s home to the Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park (HVNP), as well as a quaint village embraced by a native rainforest. This is one of the most pristine locales in the state, still thriving with endemic plant and animal species. It’s also where the most active volcano on Earth, Kïlauea, blazes with red-hot radiance. The desire to witness this shield volcano’s slow-moving lava flow from Puÿu ÿÖÿö vent is one of the reasons visitors have flocked to the Big Island in recent decades, but what they may not realize is that the eruption changes day by day and is also difficult to access. Either a sweltering hike that follows the coast for several miles round-trip taking you toward the lava’s ocean entry point (if it’s even flowing), or a tour via helicopter, bicycle or boat are the only current options, and each journey typically embarks from somewhere other than Volcano. So, if you only have a day to spend in this lovely town, there are many other adventurous and equally thrilling ways to experience Madame Pele (Hawaiian fire goddess) in all her volcanic majesty. Before setting on the journey to this southeast town, make sure you’ve got the right gear. Rain frequently falls in Volcano, and it’s wise to bring a jacket, as it also gets chilly, especially at night—remember, you’re climbing almost 4,000-feet above sea level. If you’re planning on hiking, wear proper footing for conquering rough lava, bring water, snacks and sunscreen. Also, be aware that you will encounter high sulfur dioxide gas levels, as the volcano is actively spewing fumes. Those who suffer from asthma or similar ailments are not advised to spend much time outdoors here. Once you have everything in order, plan on arriving in Volcano as early in the morning as possible. The first valuable place to stop once you get there is inside Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park. The Kïlauea Visitor Center, near the park’s entrance, 98
is where you can stretch your legs after your drive, get your bearings, and gather information from knowledgeable rangers. After that, it’s time to get into the heart of what Volcano has to offer. Make your way back toward the park’s entrance, but instead of heading out, turn on Crater Rim Drive and travel a few minutes to the overlook of Kïlauea Iki, a moon-like crater that caused a 1959 eruption that created the Puÿu Puaÿi cinder cone you’ll soon get to explore. Park your car in the lot and head to the trail, tucked among the trees. Venture through the woods on the path where you’ll gain several vantage points of the volcanic hollow you’ll eventually be plodding along in. Listen to the songs of native birds as they chirp and tweet above your head, and notice their bright colors, as they gracefully flit from tree to tree. The mesmerizing experience of cruising through a native forest is captivating, but don’t get too caught up that you miss the quick detour across the street to Thurston Lava Tube. While this diversion gets quite crowded as the day ensues, it’s well worth your time to check out what Mother Nature is capable of, and walk through this 500-year-old lava tube. Safely make your way back across the street afterwards, and you’ll begin a gentle descent into the pit of the active volcano. Don’t worry—you’re safe to tread along this 4-mile hike that drops about 400 feet. Scientists are able to track when the Earth’s belly is rumbling and another eruption might occur, and this area hasn’t experienced heightened activity for several decades. Still, you’ll find that this place is still very much alive as evidenced by the steam oozing through cracks of lava crust. You’ll also see native plant life rising from the nooks and crannies of this dried lava lake like the ÿöhiÿa lehua, which is capable of closing its pores to curtail the toxic effects of volcanic fumes. If you’re not already blown away by this extraordinary hike, BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
take a closer look at the varieties of lava that make up the landscape. Glistening rainbow-hued chunks of pähoehoe (smooth lava) and ÿaÿä (rough lava) are some of the amazing ways molten lava solidifies. Don’t take any with you as a souvenir, however, or you’ll suffer the well-documented consequences of Pele’s wrath. By this point, your tummy is probably talking to you. Good news is that ÿono grinds (delicious food) is just around the corner in Volcano Village. You’ll have to head back to your vehicle and out of the park to get there, but once you’re on the way, it only takes about five minutes to traverse. This will be your chance to peruse this laidback town, especially since the only place to eat in the park is a pricey restaurant at Volcano House, albeit with a stunning view of Halemaÿumaÿu Crater. If it’s still early, breakfast at Kilauea Lodge and Restaurant is lovely. Sip on hot coffee and enjoy eggs and toast by the fireplace in this rustic hotel. Or, if it’s lunchtime, Café Ono is the spot to be. The food here is divinely homemade and includes only vegetarian options like lasagna and fresh sandwiches with hearty soup. And don’t forget to order dessert, it’s also made in-house, and it’s heavenly. Remember, you’re on vacation. There’s not much to see in Volcano Village where the vibe is easy-going and life feels a little less complicated. But one place to check out before heading back to HVNP is Volcano Garden Arts (same location as Café Ono), where many of the island’s local artists sell their creations, such as paintings, woodwork and sculptures. After enjoying the local talent, head back to the park where your afternoon adventure awaits. Travel down Chain of Craters Road and make your way all the way to sea level. There are many lookout points along the approximate 19-mile road that cover several different decades of lava flows and will feel, at times, like you’re driving on the surface of another planet. Besides many out-of-this-world lookouts, there are also short trails along the way like the Puÿu Loa Trail where you can see a bevy of ancient petroglyphs, or the Devastation Trail where you can walk along a path that was covered in cinders from the same 1959 eruption that created the former lava lake you hiked that morning. Once the long, winding road ends, park your car and journey to the water’s edge where you’ll see the spectacular Hölei Sea Arch. The wave collisions that created this 90-foot arch that plunges into the sea will also eventually lead to its demise. You’ll also likely see a plume of smoke in the distant horizon to your left that’s emanating from the active lava flow as it dips into the ocean. Depending on your plans and how much time you have left—it’s best to explore Volcano in two or three days—you may need to head to your next destination. But if you still have time to spare, and you aren’t too exhausted from walking and driving, the last stop to make this legendary journey complete is Jaggar Museum located at the end of Crater Rim Drive. This spot is especially prime when the sun starts to dip below the horizon because you will see the fiery glow of Halemaÿumaÿu Crater, where Pele, is said to officially reside. Inside the crater is a pit where a sizzling lava lake swirls inside and lights up the evening sky. It’s quite a way to conclude such a rare and unforgettable day. Visit www.nps.gov/havo/index.htm for more information about Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park and Kïlauea’s current activity. myhawaiitraveler.com
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THE PLIGHT OF
‘ŌHI‘A LEHUA From a legendary story of star-crossed lovers to the current fight to stop the spread of deadly disease, the native trees are deeply rooted in Hawaiian culture and needs to be saved. WORDS COCO ZICKOS
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ike crimson wisps of lava exploding from the fiery depths of Kïlauea Caldera, the blossoms of the ÿöhiÿa lehua plant are just as dazzling. This endemic species is cherished in Hawaiÿi and serves as the official flower of the Big Island. But don’t be fooled by the flower’s delicate looking tendrils, these plants are hearty and can adapt to all kinds of environments. You might find them as short bushes in a dry crater, growing through cracks of cemented lava and naturally resistant to the active volcano’s toxic gases. Or, you can find them as towering trees more than 50-ft tall growing 5,000-ft above sea level in a rainforest, providing nectar to Hawaiÿi’s native honeycreepers. ÿÖhiÿa lehua, the state’s most abundant native tree, is also the most capricious; its species name, Metrosideros polymorpha, means “many forms.” The tree’s fluffy flowers, which bloom year-round, resemble bright red holiday ornaments and pompoms, but can also occur in different colors such as yellow, orange, pink or cream. These blossoms were once used for medicinal purposes during childbirth, as well as in tea to treat other ailments. The plant’s leaves are just as diverse, and range from crisp green to dull grey. The bark, which has a contorted appearance, comes in varying thickness and shades as well. The wood is extremely firm and is traditionally used to craft items like kiÿi (statues), canoes, and bowls. Legends of this prized plant are as rich as the varied forms it comes in. The ÿöhiÿa lehua is said to represent two starcrossed lovers who endured the fury of Pele, the Hawaiian volcano goddess. The deity wished to wed a dashing warrior named ÿÖhiÿa, but his heart already belonged to a young woman named Lehua. Pele, scorched with emotions, turned ÿÖhiÿa into a gnarled tree to punish him. The Hawaiian gods empathized with Lehua who was destroyed by the loss, so they turned her into a beautiful blossom, united forever with her lover. It’s been said that if you pluck one of the flowers, it will rain the same day, symbolic of Lehua’s misery for, once again, being separated from the love of her life.
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Though it’s difficult to imagine, there is one silver lining to the ÿöhiÿa lehua’s plight. Since identifying the fungus, many individuals and groups have come together to help combat the disease from state and federal officials to cultural practitioners, “…all working together and moving forward as one,” says Dr. Lisa Keith, research plant pathologist from the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The Merrie Monarch Festival, a highly-coveted hula competition that takes place annually in Hilo, voluntarily placed a kapu (ban) on the use of ÿöhiÿa lehua blossoms in 2016—the flower is often used to adorn dancers. With the cooperation and collaboration of all concerned citizens like this, there is hope that the native species will continue to thrive and protect the many flora and fauna of the Big Island’s ecosystem, as well as serve as a reminder of just how precious and unique Hawaiÿi’s species are.
SIGNS OF ROD
When the tree dies, the entire crown will turn yellow and then brown, typically within a few weeks. In the “G5” image (above, right), it shows the typical dark starburst pattern of the fungus that has grown in the sapwood, which is where the water conducting cells are located in the ÿöhiÿa tree. When a portion of the trunk is cut for sampling, Ceratocystis would appear as dark streaking. The fungus may take several months to a year before the tree starts to show outward symptoms of the disease like rapid browning of the crown. Please do your part in stopping the spread of the disease to help save our native trees. Tips on what you can do and more information about ÿöhiÿa lehua and ROD can be found at www.rapidohiadeath.org. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
PHOTO COURTESY; (THIS PAGE/OPPOSITE) J.B. FRIDAY
Not only integral to ancient stories and chants, this keystone species is also vital to the health of the Hawaiian ecosystem, providing food and shelter for many other plants, as well as animals. But despite ÿöhiÿa lehua’s deep ties to the environment and culture, and its strength in almost any condition, the plant is currently undergoing a terrible plight. A fungal disease called Rapid ÿÖhiÿa Death (ROD) has claimed some 75,000 acres of the endemic species since about 2010, 26,000 of which perished within the last year. The areas that have been afflicted include South Hilo, Puna, Kaÿü and Kona districts. Scientists are still trying to determine how ROD originated on the Big Island, but they’ve speculated it could have arrived on an introduced plant carrying the pathogen, a different strain was brought to Hawaiÿi and mutated, or two separate strains combined to create the strain that is killing the ÿöhiÿa. What’s been most challenging for researchers is that the Ceratocystis fungus is situated deep within the wood of the tree and produces spores that can survive many years in various conditions, making it difficult to combat. Losing the species, however, is not an option for these scientists, and they are doing everything they can to mitigate the issue. They also encourage visitors to do the same. The number one action you can do to help prevent the spread of the fungus is use the decontamination stations wherever you see them at trailheads before and after going into the forest. Other precautions include not taking or moving any parts of the plant, particularly to other islands where the disease has, thankfully, not made its way. Gears like shoes, backpacks and clothes can also be cleaned before and after entering forests, like brushing soil off shoes and spraying them with a 70 percent rubbing alcohol solution. Washing your vehicle after off-roading is another added precaution to help prevent other trees from succumbing to the disease.
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HIT THE BEACH
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SAND + SURF KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)
A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.
HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA
Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. myhawaiitraveler.com
KAUNA‘OA BEACH
A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.
KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH
Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.
KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK
Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are
available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.
MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK
Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.
SPENCER BEACH PARK
Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. 105
WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH
Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.
NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK
A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.
KUA BAY BEACH PARK
Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.
HONOKŌHAU BEACH
Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.
OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK
The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.
WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK
Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106
available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.
SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK
Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.
KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK
Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.
KAMAKAHONU BAY
The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.
MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK
Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927
alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.
NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK
Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.
LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK
a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.
HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK
Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.
KEHENA BEACH PARK
Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.
GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH
Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.
MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA
swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.
LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK
Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.
HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK
Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.
JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK
Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo.
HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK
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Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.
LELEIWI BEACH PARK
Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.
ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK
Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.
RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK
Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.
REEDS BAY PARK
Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.
Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.
PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK
Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.
WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK
Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107
SAND + SURF
PUNA-KA‘Ū ‘AHALANUI BEACH PARK
270
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108
240
270 250
Honoka‘a
19
19
190
Waikoloa Village
Hualalai Resort
200
19
190
19 11 180
160 11
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DESTINATIONS
onoka‘a
220
19
200
11
200 130 Volcano
11
132
Pahoa
137
11
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CALENDAR
ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date. KOKUA KAILUA (Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along 110
scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or visit historickailuavillage. com. SEPTEMBER RUN FOR HOPE 21ST ANNUAL WEEKEND TO BENEFIT CANCER RESEARCH (Sept. 8-10) - The weekend kicks off with the popular Taste of Hawaiÿi Island culinary event on Friday at 6pm. Capturing talented chefs from around Hawaiÿi Island in one place for an evening of tasty delights, drinks and island music at the beautiful Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. The silent auction is a popular annual highlight with unique vacation packages and island gifts. On Saturday, Shotgun Golf Tournament is at 1pm and Tennis Tournament from 2 to 5pm. On Sunday, the annual Run for Hope takes place and begins at 6:45am with a warm-up and the race starts at 7am with a 10K run and 5K run/walk along the beautiful manicured resort landscape. The event concludes with refreshments and raffle prizes at the Hoku Amphitheater. Show some team spirit by dressing up! Sponsored by Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, 100% of proceeds are donated. For tickets, registration and more information, visit www.runforhopehualalai.com. HAWAIICON 2017 (Sept-14-17) - Explore another world without ever leaving Earth at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows! Lots to do: Adventure with the stars, get autographs, cosplay contest, gala dinners, gaming, meet and greets, photo ops, workshops and so many more to do! Some of the awesome guests attending: James Marsters, Amber Benson, Paul Blakem, Daniel Logan, Cree Summer, Bill Morrison, Patricia Tallman, Tatiana DeKhtyar, Charles Xavier Conley, Larissa Paige and so many more! Many vendors and entertainment to keep you full throughout HawaiiCon 2017! Ticket and hotel information available online at hawaiicon.com. OCTOBER IRONMAN WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP (Oct. 14) – The Ironman World Championship, considered one of the most grueling one-day sporting events in the world, will be held in Kailua-Kona. Over 2,000 triathletes from around the world swim through the waters surrounding
Kailua Pier, bike through Kona roads to the Kohala Coast and back, and run a marathon course that ends at Aliÿi Drive for a total of 140.6 miles with thousands of cheering spectators at the finish line. For more info, visit ironman.com or email kona@ironman.com. CHEF FEST (Oct. 4-8) - Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, the only AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star hotel on Hawaiÿi Island, will host a multi-day food and wine event featuring high-profile dinners, interactive cooking classes and culinary experiences. The series of events showcases some of the country’s best culinary and mixology talent in an intimate beachfront setting. All events are exclusive to Resort guests with the exception of the Chef Fest Grand Tasting, happening Wednesday, October 4 from 6pm – 8pm. Celebrity chefs include Andy Ricker, Gabrielle Hamilton, Neal Fraser, Edward Lee, Ivan Orkin, and Jonathan Waxman. For reservations or tickets, call (808) 325-8000. Visit cheffesthualalai.com for more information. 19TH ANNUAL TASTE OF HILO (Oct. 22) - The Japanese Chamber of Commerce hosts their annual festival from 1pm to 3pm, at Sangha Hall in Hilo. Presale tickets are $55. They can be purchased by calling the Chamber’s office at (808) 934-0177, or by email at jccih@ jccih.org. Tickets may also be purchased at the door for $70 if the event has not been sold out. The Taste of Hilo annually features the culinary skills of more than 35 chefs, restaurants, and patisseries, who provide their talents, ingredients and staff to make this annual event a success. Come and discover what your favorite restaurants will be featuring at this year’s Taste of Hilo. A portion of event proceeds goes to support the Hawaii Community College. HAWAI‘I FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL: RETURN OF CUISINES OF THE SUN (Oct. 28) - Return of Cuisines of the Sun returns with superstar culinary talent from around the world joining forces to celebrate the food and wine of sunny climates. The diversity of Hawaiÿi Island’s bounty is showcased in a spectacular sixcourse dinner at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort. Indulge your culinary senses with this lavish dinner paired with fine wines provided by Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits Hawaiÿi. Featured Chefs: Robert Del Grande (Café Annie, Houston, TX)• Dean Fearing (Fearing’s, Dallas, TX)• Jayson Kanekoa (Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa• François Payard (Payard, New York, NY)• Mark Peel (Prawn, Los Angeles, CA)• Alan Wong (Alan Wong’s Honolulu, Honolulu, HI). For information, call Michelle (808) 738-6245 or visit HFWF.me. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER
NOVEMBER THE 46TH ANNUAL KONA COFFEE CULTURAL FESTIVAL (Nov. 3-12) - The festival hosts more than 40 events over 10 days that are wide-ranging and showcase nearly 200 years of culture behind Kona Coffee. There are fun activities for all ages and interests and, of course, loads of opportunities to taste Kona Coffee and experience the celebrated lifestyle. Call Valerie (808) 990-6511 or visit konacoffeefest.com. HAWAI‘I STEEL GUITAR FESTIVAL (Nov. 10-12) - The 1st Annual Hawai’i Steel Guitar Festival is held at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows on the Kohala Coast. This festival features steel guitar performances by Hawai’i steel guitar masters, workshops, jam sessions where festival guests can play along with the steel guitar masters, and Open Stage sessions where amateur and professional Hawaiian Steel Guitarists can present their own program to festival guests. The festival is presented free to the public by the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows and the Hawaii Institute for Music Enrichment and Learning Experiences (HIMELE) in association with the Ke Kula Mele
Hawai’i School of Hawaiian Music, with grants and support from corporate partners, private donors, and the Hawaiÿi Tourism Authority. Visit hawaiisteelguitarfestival.com or call (808) 3759379. DECEMBER 57TH ANNUAL WAIMEA CHRISTMAS TWILIGHT PARADE (Dec. 2) – Waimea’s famous Christmas parade (the second oldest in Hawaiÿi) includes a Santa float, dozens of units representing Waimea keiki to kupuna including churches, schools, youth groups, community organizations, farms, ranches and businesses, plus a huge brigade of festively lighted trucks. Parade is from 5:30pm to 6:45pm (only emergency vehicles will be able to pass through the town center during this time). As always, Santa has promised to again ride in our parade and afterwards, visit with keiki at Parker Ranch Center’s Fireside Food Court. For information, visit WaimeaTown.org. MAUNA LANI CHARITY TREES (Dec. 4) -The Kona Historical Society (KHS) is celebrating the holiday season by sharing its historical photo collection as part of a Christmas
tree exhibit at Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. KHS staff and volunteers decorate a Christmas tree with special historic photos for the Mauna Lani Charity Trees event. Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows will award prizes to organizations whose trees, displayed in the hotel’s lobby, receive the highest number of votes from the public. Call Ramona (808) 3233222. THE 13TH ANNUAL JINGLE BELL BEACH RUN (Dec. 17) - Kailua-Kona’s premier running event—featuring the island’s largest 5-km walk/ run that encourages participation from all fitness levels and running backgrounds. Great fun for everyone and family-oriented—plus, a festive costume contest. The perfect addition to your holiday celebrations! And parents: be sure to get your kids ready for ‘Santa’s Keiki Dash�—a popular fun run (100-yd & 200-yd events) free for children 6 & under! At Coconut Grove Marketplace at 7:30am. For more information and registration, visit www.kona5k.com. All events are subject to change.
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