Big Island Traveler - Summer 2018 by Traveler Media

BIG ISLAND THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

T R AV E L E R

myhawaiitraveler.com SUMMER 2018

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK EPIC ADVENTURES THE BEST BEACHES WHAT WE LOVE NOW $6.99

BENEATH

THE SURFACE

THE IDYLLIC WHITE SAND BEACHES OF KEKAHA KAI

SWIM WITH THE FISHES EXPLORE THE ISLAND'S TOP SNORKEL SPOTS

HAWAII

take the colors of Hawaii home

Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort

MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

L E G E N DA RY SHOPPING & DINING

T I F FA N Y & C O . M A RY JA N E ’ S

M I C H A E L KO R S

TO R I R I C H A R D

M AC Y ’ S R E S O R T S TO R E

R OY ’ S WA I KO L O A B A R & G R I L L

TO M M Y B A H A M A

N OA N OA

SOLSTICE SUNGLASS BOUTIQUE

MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY

A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L

NA HOKU

MARTIN & MACARTHUR AND MORE...

New Cultural Exhibits throughout the center in partnership with Bishop Museum Located in Waikoloa Beach Resort | Big Island | KingsShops.com | 808.886.8811

CONTENTS 2

26 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

76 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending culinary experiences

34 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

80 THE HOT SPOT ‘ULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge

50 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

82 WINE THROUGH SUMMER From dry Furmint of Hungary to Provençal Rosé, give in to the current wine trends and discover a new favorite

96 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano 8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n that Hawai‘i style 18 WHY DON'T YOU... Try these Big Island experiences 22 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Hawai‘i 36 BENEATH THE SURFACE The idyllic white sand beaches of Kekaha Kai 42 SWIM WITH THE FISHES Explore the Island’s best snorkel spots

84 CULINARY Q&A Executive Chef Nick Mastrascusa 87 BIZARRE BITES Broaden your palate with these deliciously strange delicacies 98 GO COASTAL Discover Hāmākua’s iconic waterfalls, verdant valleys, and sleepy towns frozen in time 102 BLACK BEAUTY Take a stroll on sand as dark as night and take in the significant history of Punalu‘u

62 COUNTRY ROAD Drive through the heart of the Big Island and discover unworldly beauty on Saddle Road

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

OVER THE MOON, LEFT AT CLOUD NINE, JUST PAST SEVENTH HEAVEN, FIRST RIGHT IS...

KŪKI‘O

KŪKI‘O GOLF AND BEACH CLUB The Big Island of Hawai‘i’s elite private residential community. kukio.com | 808.325.4040

CONTENTS

GOLF | 52

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

DINING | 68

Kirk Lee Aeder Brooke Rehmann Krystal Kakimoto Ekua Impraim Peter A. Thoene Eric Franke Bacana Hawaii

COPY EDITOR Joseph Kwak

COVER IMAGE Eric Franke

ADVENTURE | 92 EVENTS | 110

BEACHES | 105 4

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

MADE IN THE USA BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (COVER) ; (TOP LT) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI; (TOP RT) TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY; (MID LEFT) BACANA HAWAII; (MID RIGHT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ISLAND BREEZE

SHOP | 54

CONTRIBUTORS

Oceanfront Dining

Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai Reservations 808 325 8000

fourseasons.com/hualalai

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

“Don’t judge a book by its cover” is an axiom we heard countless times as kids. Our parents/teachers were trying to teach us not to prejudge someone or something based on appearances alone. Think about the great friendships or places you would have missed out on if you would have rejected them solely based on looks. Nature has a funny way of hiding nice surprises in not-soattractive packages. I couldn’t even imagine how delicacies like uni, escargot, and oysters were discovered as delicious edibles. The first person to eat each one probably lost a bet. At least that was how I was forced to try sushi for the first time when I was in my late teens in the early 90s. And, although I grew up in a household where geoduck, octopus, and sashimi were served on special occasions, I steered far away from proteins that didn’t hit the pan first and anything else that wasn’t “normal” for a typical teenager growing up in Oklahoma. My coworker warned me that I might not love sushi at first bite, and that proved to be true. I had to get over the fact that the fish was raw and also the squeamish feeling that was building in my stomach because I imagined my food moving. Thank goodness, the Japanese-owned Tokyo House restaurant served great tempura and teriyaki or I would have had to stop at a fast food joint on the way home. I had many friends that joined the sushi craze early on so I went back to Tokyo House, and by the third time I had sushi there, I was hooked. After that, I was way more open-minded about trying new foods even if it didn’t look the most appealing like uni and abalone—which I did love at first bite. And, it’s not just tasty 6

seafood that got hit with the ugly stick, because there are some alien-looking fruits and veggies like Buddha’s hand or cherimoya that can scare you off, but are a delightful treat (Bizarre Bites, p. 88). In spite of what the food looks like, you should give it a try just as your parent would say—you may even discover a new favorite! And just as Mother Nature has a funny sense of humor, she is also bit of a bragger and nurturer. With astounding splendor found along Hämäkua like Waipiÿo Valley (Going Coastal, p. 98) and idyllic white sand beaches of Kekaha Kai State Park (Beneath the Surface, p. 36) along with the dark-as-coal gem at Punaluÿu (Black Beauty, p. 102), it’s hard not to give attention to nature and be amazed at the diverse attractions. From sea to mountain, you can have countless adventures in incredible settings. It’s also easier to center yourself and de-stress in the tranquility of nature on an inspiring hike. Have gratitude for all the gifts that Mother Earth provides us from strange edibles to unimaginable beauty. Don’t shy away from new experiences and live in the moment, whether here on the Big Island or wherever your travels take you. Fill your time with as many wonders as you possibly can. Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

YO U R PA R A D I S E AWA I T S

OCEANFRONT AND GOLF COURSE HOME SITES ON THE BIG ISLAND’S KOHALA COAST Prices start at $879,000 (FS). Gracefully sculpted from an exquisite oceanfront parcel on the Kohala Coast, Ke Kailani offers the opportunity to create your custom dream home in an exclusive oceanfront community. As a resident, you’ll enjoy Ke Kailani’s world-class amenities, as well as access to the splendid Mauna Lani Beach Club. It’s an extraordinary opportunity, for a fortunate few. To book your private tour, call us at 808.238.0900, or visit www.kekailani.com. This information is not an offer to sell or solicitation to purchase and may not be used in any jurisdiction where the project is not registered in accordance with applicable law or where an offer or solicitation would otherwise be prohibited by law. The developer may modify any improvements and architectural features and finishes without notice. All renderings, maps, plans, and other images are provided to assist in visualizing the project and may not accurately represent the final product or actual lots available for sale.

LOCAL VIBE HAWAIIAN IDOL

One of the most easily identifiable fish to spot in our reefs is the Moorish idol. Known here as kihikihi, meaning curves or zigzags, Moorish idols stand out with their vertical black, white, and yellow stripes, and long, graceful dorsal fin, which make them instantly recognizable. They are relatively small, growing to about 9-inches in size, and tend to hang out in small groups, but can occasionally be seen within a larger school. Their habitat includes the warm tropical waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, but within the United States can only be found here in Hawaiÿi. You will have no problem finding them in the reefs around our islands, from the tide pools of Waiÿöpae in Kapoho to the coral surrounding Puÿuhonua o Hönaunau National Historical Park. Feeding off small invertebrates, sponges, and algae, the warm waters of Hawaiÿi provide the perfect diet. Moorish idols are notoriously hard to keep in captivity and are therefore better admired from some old-fashioned dips in the ocean with a trusty snorkel. Prepare to be transfixed the first time you see this elegant fish swimming around a reef—and if you have kids in your life and have seen Finding Nemo, you can’t help but to think about Gill.

Hawaiÿi has many endemic birds found nowhere else on Earth like the striking ÿapapane (Hawaiian honeycreeper) and the beloved pueo (short-eared owl), but one of the most unique is the ÿio, or Hawaiian hawk. The only hawk that is native to Hawaiÿi, this medium-sized predator grows to about 18 inches in length. The ÿio only breeds on the Big Island, but has been seen elsewhere around the state. In ancient Hawaiian folklore, the ÿio was used to represent the aliÿi, or royalty, in legends and lores. ÿIo live and hunt alone, mating one time a year and generally hatch one egg at a time. This bird of prey feeds on smaller animals, such as rodents, insects, and small birds. For those on the lookout, ÿio have two color phases: one dark, with a brown head, breast, and underwings; and a light phase with a dark head and lighter breast and underwings. If you are out on a hike and hear a high-pitched shrill, look up and see if you can catch a glimpse of this rare, endangered species found nowhere else.

LOCAL LINGO

Anyone who grew up in the 70s watching The Partridge Family or who was immersed in surf culture is familiar with the ubiquitous puka shell necklace. The puka shell is bead-like in shape, small and white, and is quintessential in jewelry like bracelets and necklaces that adorn all the resident slackers in your life. The first time you hear the word “puka” out here in Hawaiÿi, you may be reminded of this jewelry and this shell, but it’s more likely that the speaker was using the word to say something different: a hole. Named after the hole present in each puka shell, locals use this word in lots of different ways to refer to holes. What did you trip over? A big puka in the ground. How did you get the puka in your slippahs? Though it generally refers to a naturally occurring opening like a cavernous space or even a skylight in a lava tube, you can use it to refer to any hole. This is not a word that many outsiders would know, so if you are trying to sound like a local, consider this puka in your vocabulary filled. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) BROCKEN INAGLORY; (BOTTOM LEFT) JOHN GERRARD KEULEMANS

RARE SIGHTING

Front row seats available

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI Reservations (808) 325-8000 fourseasons.com/hualalai

LOCAL VIBE

TROPICAL BEAUTIES Whether it’s in a beautiful bouquet or in a well-manicured garden, heliconias are some of the most recognizably tropical plants you’ll encounter. Ranging in size from a towering 15 feet to the more humble knee-high height, each heliconia’s dramatic and exotic appearance is unforgettable. Originally from the Central America region, heliconias love wet and tropical climates, making Hawaiÿi an ideal place to take root. In Central America, hummingbirds pollinate the plant; however, because we do not have hummingbirds in Hawaiÿi, certain insects have stepped up to do the job here. The part of the plant that many people incorrectly consider the flower come in two types, erect and pendant—where the brightly colored bracts of the inflorescence hide a smaller, and more delicate flower, similar to ginger plants. Within those two types, though, includes an almost innumerable variety of colors, forms, and shapes. The “Andromeda” variety, with its striking pink, orange, and yellow bracts with black tips that look almost like a bird’s claw, is shorter, but makes a dramatic border in a garden. Other types, such as the Heliconia rostrata variety, hang down from their towering green leaves with bright red bracts and yellow and green tips, resembling a lobster claw or parrot’s beak. Other hanging heliconia look like graceful dancers caught in action. Keep your eyes peeled for these beautiful, unexpected plants on your travels, and see how many you can count! 10

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

PICKING SUMMER Most people think Hawaiÿi doesn’t have seasons. But every resident knows that come summer, mango season is in full swing. There’s hardly anything more satisfying than biting into that first juicy mango of the summer, plucked from a friend’s giant mango tree or snapped up at a local farmers market. Though there are lots of varieties grown on our islands, the three most common include the Rapoza, Pirie, and perhaps the most popular, the Hayden. Picking a ripe mango can be best apprised with a few of the senses—first, the smell, second, the touch, and third, the sight. Ripe mangoes smell sweet and tropical, and give a little when squeezed. Too much give, and it’s likely over-ripened. Depending on the variety of mango, the color will give you an idea if it’s ready to be eaten—Rapozas look yellow with some red or purple tints; Piries will look yellow and green and less red; while the Hayden will look red, yellow, and green. Eating and cutting into a mango is not as obvious as eating any other fruit. To eat or cut a mango, cut along the sides of the fruit, avoiding the inner pith that is extra fibrous and not enjoyable to eat. The fleshy sides of the fruit give the most enjoyment. Dice it into small chunks for a mango salsa, or cut it up and add to your morning yogurt, or add to a bottle of water or make into a tropical libation—mango is the perfect refreshing fruit for the long, hot summer days. And should you get here before all of the mangoes are ripe, green mangoes are perfect for pickling. Either way, you’ve arrived just in time to enjoy one of Hawaiÿi’s best seasons—enjoy! 12

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Kamuela Provision Company

We invite you to experience the Island of Hawaii’s premier destination for

Call 808-886-1234 • Visit HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com FOLLOW HiltonWaikoloaVillage

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Kona Tap Room

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Kohala Spa

Legends of Hawaii Luau

LOCAL VIBE

ROAMING FREE Ever find yourself driving around the island and see a strange creature hanging out on the side of the road or on top of a huge lava boulder? It’s likely that animal you saw was a feral goat, one of the few invasive mammals that have adapted well to their new tropical habitat. First brought to the island by Captains Cook and Vancouver in the late 18th century, these wild goats have made their homes roaming the harsh lava landscape, as well as the slopes of our massive volcanoes. You may even see a few goats tied up in yards around the island, as they make for a great eco-friendly lawn mower. Because they prefer a drier environment, goats are usually sighted on the Kona side of the island, especially between Waikoloa and Kailua-Kona, as well as on Saddle Road. There, the goats munch on weeds as well as native, indigenous plants, making them more pest than pet. However, goats are utilized for more than just their lawn munching power—local cuisines such as Filipino food, often incorporate goat into their dishes, such as goat stews, goat adobo, and goat even makes appearances in some yummy tacos around the island as well! Hawaii Island Goat Dairy uses goat’s milk to create a creamy, tangy, and delicious chèvre cheese produced right here on our island. Even though many locals consider these animals a pest, they are still cool to see in the wild. 14

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... submerge in a submarine.

If you have members in your group like young keiki (children) that aren’t comfortable snorkeling yet, taking a submarine down 100-ft. allows everyone to discover the colorful world beneath the surface while staying safe and dry. See the vibrant ecosystem of an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef teeming with tropical life after you descend deep into the Pacific. If you’re lucky, you may even see spinner dolphins playfully swimming about. Atlantis Submarines (808) 327-1441.

go underground.

Take a walk beneath the cool earth in a lava tube that once was a flowing river of fiery lava. Thurston Lava Tube in Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park is located near the Kïlauea Iki Overlook—just a short 20-minute walk through a lush tree fern forest allows you to walk through an old lava cave. It’s remarkable to think that several hundred years ago that red-hot lava rushed through this place. Nähuku, as it was once known and literally translates to protuberances in Hawaiian, was discovered in 1913 by Lorrin Thurston, who was a local newspaper publisher.

Along with tremendous benefits on the external body, hiking has many advantages that go unseen within the body as well. Since hiking is an exercise that provides both sculpting and cardiovascular exercise, a good hike in the mountains can get the blood flowing and increase circulation, which plays an important role in maintaining general health. You also get the sense of serenity that nature provides allowing you to find peace and de-stress in a tranquil setting. And with so many incredible, natural wonders on the Big Island to explore like secluded beaches, heated tidepools, and hidden waterfalls, you can choose a hike that suits your physical ability and schedule. It’s simple to go on your own, but if you prefer to go with a professional guide for a stress-free adventure with all the necessities taken care of for you like driving, packing gear and lunch, try Hawaii Forest & Trail (808) 331-3635. 18

stop and smell the tropics.

With so many intoxicating, heavenly scents from beautiful, fragrant flowers from melia (plumeria) and pïkake (jasmine) to gardenias and tuberose found on the Big Island, your head may spin from the sensory overload in the best way possible way.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT) ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

hike for your health.

“BEST SNORKEL CRUISE ON THE BIG ISLAND”

WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Fair Wind II and Hula Kai at historic Kealakekua Bay & site of the Captain Cook Monument Information & Reservations 808.345.6213 | www.fair-wind.com

LOCAL VIBE

MY HAWAI‘I NAME

AUSTIN WATKINS

OCCUPATION

REGIONAL DIRECTOR OF HOTEL MARKETING AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM

3 YEARS

SINGAPORE

FAVORITE BEACH: Kikaua Point. This is where my family journey began eight years ago when Sonia and I were married there, and it is a great beach to bring our young kids to because of the protected nature and family-friendly amenities. FAVORITE FOOD: The Huli Huli Chicken that GJ’s sells on Saturdays in Waimea next to the Kamuela Wine Store. Great people executing simple yet savory food every week. FAVORITE PASTIME/ACTIVITY: Triathlon. This is the epicenter for the sport and I get to explore the island running, biking and swimming in the ocean. So many surreal sights! It is a sport that tests one’s mental toughness and pushes you beyond your personal limits. FAVORITE HAWAIIAN PRODUCT: Hawaiian chili pepper. Whether from the farmers at Pukalani Stables or those grown in our garden, they adorn most meals at my house since they add a perfect amount of heat to our food. FAVORITE PLACE TO CATCH THE SUNSET/SUNRISE: Sunrise anywhere on the ocean, but ideally in an outrigger canoe because I feel so connected to the ÿäina (land) in those moments. FAVORITE PLACE TO SPLURGE: ÿULU Ocean Grill because the oceanfront location combined with the local food products and excellence in execution and service is a rare combination that the team nails every night. FAVORITE PLACE TO TAKE IN THE HISTORY: A long run early in the morning in Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park amongst the rainforest, steam vents and sounds of the caldera in the background.

A JOG THROUGH HVNP 22

IF YOU WERE A VISITOR, YOU WOULD WANT TO KNOW…explore the island through the wide array of food it offers. Be adventurous in what you try and generous with your compliments.

TRIATHLON

HAWAIIAN CHILI PEPPERS BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (MIDDLE) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM)

my local faves

LUCKY YOU LIVE HAWAI‘I…because the people of this island practice aloha and respect all who do the same. I want my children to one day understand the intrinsic value in this rare human quality.

let nothing come between us

I NTRODUCI N G HAWAI I’S MOST SPECTACU LAR B EACH FRONT R ESI DE NCES, AT TH E B E LOVE D MAU NA K EA R ESORT

Let nothing come between you and the sea, sand and sky. Let nothing come between you and the legendary destination that created and has defined island luxury for generations: The Mauna Kea Resort. If your idea of Hawaii is the beach, then why not live directly on the best in all the islands — Hapuna. We invite you to express your interest in our debut release of 17 residences in this remarkable and exceedingly rare offering. 808.557.8689

Info@MaunaKeaLiving.com

For Hapuna Beach Residences, obtain the Developer’s Public Report for a Condominium required by Hawaii law and read it before signing a binding sales contract. No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of these properties. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy where prohibited by law.

ALOHA

HAWAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I THE BIG ISLAND

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Experience the flavors of iconic Hawai‘i.

MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

Casual dining in a beachside atmosphere, with fresh fish grilled just so, imaginative kabobs and island-fresh salads.

Overlooking Kauna‘oa Bay, Manta pioneered Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring locally sourced ingredients delivered daily.

Our golf clubhouse restaurant offers casual island cuisine adjacent to the first tee. Grass-fed burgers, fish tacos and cold beer on tap.

C A L L 8 0 8 - 8 8 2 - 5 8 1 0 F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S THE WESTIN

Centrally-located barista bar featuring Kona Coffee, refreshing libations, a light menu and fresh grab-n-go selections.

The perfect place to experience a magnificent Kauna‘oa Bay sunset. Mixologist-crafted cocktails, tap beers and wine complement shareable, tapas-inspired dishes.

HAPUNA BEACH RESORT

Start your day in a refreshing open-air setting with a sumptuous breakfast buffet or select from à la carte options including fresh juices and smoothies.

A poolside oasis providing a casual setting to enjoy lighter fare including salads, sandwiches and pupus, along with local brews on tap and signature tropical cocktails.

C A L L 8 0 8 - 8 8 0 - 1 1 1 1 F O R R E S E R V AT I O N S

A signature dining experience featuring Mediterranean-inspired cuisine with locally sourced ingredients and sweeping views of Hapuna Beach.

ALOHA

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

ALOHA

active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak. The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200

feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea. Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green. Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because

it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage. You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine.

Exclusive DOORS-OFF over Kīlauea Volcano!

Departing from Kona, Hilo, Lāna‘i, Ko Olina, and the North Shore of O‘ahu 30

866-919-7414 www.paradisecopters.com BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

8oz Filet Mignon with Spicy Garlic Cream Shrimp, Garlic Butter Green Beans

Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service.

Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawaii Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake.

ROY'S AT THE KING'S SHOPS, WAIKOLOA | RESERVATIONS CALL (808) 886-4321 | ROYSHAWAII.COM

The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island, welcoming

Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig. Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.” Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island. There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health. NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultrapure bottled drinking water. Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha. 32

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) ANDREW WALSH

visitors with warm smiles.

Mofl0 2 &RS ™

deliver fresh air on every breath. Here’s how it works: Trading CO2 (exhale) for O2 (inhale) occurs in billions of alveoli cells in the bronchial tubes & lungs, but not in the 4-6 inches from the trachea to the mouth hole—the stretch known as dead-air space. A primitive snorkel triples dead-air space, so you rebreathe the same air, which is like wearing the same sox or not changing your skivvies. Burning lungs & a heavy heart affict the snorkeler breathing CO2. Would you rather sigh in an elevator or get 93% fresh air on every breath?

Mofl02™ FRESH-AIR SNORKEL K and the all new Mofl02RS ™—Rally Sport, for the Now comes

fuel effcient among us. More concise lungs need less volume in a snorkel. RS means less effort to clear, and it comes with a standard or small mouthpiece. With double-valve twin chambers, the

Mofl02™

& Mofl02RS ™ clear easy as PHWEEGA! You will love no headaches & more umph in your glug. So GET DOWN & come up to

MoflO2 &RS ™

by the day, the week or for keeps

No snuks, leaks or pond scum in the gear wash.

Kailua-Kona on Alii Drive next to The Royal Kona Resort 329-0770 Kohala Coast/Waikoloa @ The Shops at Mauna Lani 885-9499 $9/week snorkel sets • 24 hr. Interisland Gear Return • All Islands 8-5 Every Day

DESTINATIONS

KONA COAST

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral. Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites. Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 34

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church. Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate. If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy. One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.” BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BENEATH THE SURFACE The idyllic white sand beaches of Kekaha Kai.

WORDS PETER THOENE IMAGES ERIC FRANKE

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The first time landing at the Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport can be a jarring experience—disappointing even. Not because of the facilities, the airlines, or the long flight. No, for first timers, peering longingly out of the window under a raised window shade, the scenery surrounding the tarmac is nothing like the typical portrayal of Hawaiÿi. The view that radiates outward from the Kona coastline is never used in Hollywood movies, brochures, or tourism websites. Some adjectives I’ve heard used to the describe the view: desolate, barren, scorched, brownie-like, Mars-like. I can’t argue with these descriptors. But with a little conversation, effort, or research, the seemingly dead coastline can come to life with secrets beyond what any website has to offer.

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Airplanes and Fishponds Let’s start with the airport itself. Completed in the summer of 1970, it was first called Keähole Airport after the prevalence of the ähole fish found nearby. The airport was actually placed on top of the most recent lava flow from Hualälai. Hualälai, Kona’s backyard volcano, may be the least famous of the island’s five volcanoes. Perhaps Hualälai is not as celebrated because it is not currently erupting like Kïlauea. Hualälai is not the tallest like Mauna Kea nor the most massive volcano like Mauna Loa. There are no lush, waterfall-laden valleys adorning its coastline to fawn over. However, Kona’s still active volcano is a spectacular, sleeping splendor. The last time it erupted was in 1801 and it will erupt again. In 1801 when Hualälai’s western flank opened up, lava came oozing down its steep side. This molten rock caused trauma when it poured unforgivingly into a massive manmade fishpond. This fishpond just so happened to be the favorite fishpond of Hawaiÿi’s favorite king. You see, the Hawaiians were the only Polynesians practicing fish farming. By constructing coastal ponds to stock and raise fish, the hassle of dealing with the fickle open ocean was avoided. These fishponds provided a substantial bounty of food. This bounty was often reserved strictly for the aliÿi (royalty). This particular fishpond that the 1801 flow inundated was called Paÿaiea and was the prized, personal fishpond of King Kamehameha the Great. The sheer size of Paÿaiea is immortalized in the saying: O na hoku o ka lani, o Pa‘aiea ko lalo. The stars are above, Paÿaiea below. The only thing comparable to the enormous pond was the seemingly endless night sky above. The pond was reportedly three miles long by one and a half miles wide and littered with tiny islands. Today, when the wheels of airplanes skid across the tarmac, they do so about 25 to 30 feet above where the walls to the fabled fishpond once stood. 38

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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The Beaches of Kekaha Kai Turn left out of the airport, and you are travelling back in time. The farther north you head, the older, geologically, the island becomes. You’ll pass a massive lava tube on the righthand side of the road. This tube is a byproduct of the 1801 flow. Lava tubes are created in the same way rivers freeze in the winter. The tops and sides of a flowing channel of lava harden first, and allow molten rock to flow, insulated, in this new tube. When the eruption stops, the molten rock drains, and the only thing remaining is a hollow tube. Tubes can be as small as a baseball, and as cavernous as a train tunnel—just like the roadside cavern here. The first lefthand turn you can make on Queen Kaÿahumanu Highway takes you to Kekaha Kai State Park. This white sand beach called Mahaiÿula is the first white sand you’ll encounter on the way up the Kohala coastline. The newly graded gravel road allows even two-wheel drive vehicles to creep in. The beach foliage adorning Mahaiÿula peppers the water’s edge and leans casually over the white sand, casting shaded protection from the unforgiving Kona sun. 40

For the more prepared, you can walk north from Mahaiÿula across about a mile of barren lava to the next white sand beach called Makalawena. This oasis boasts sand as soft as baby powder, water as clear as polished glass, and a supernatural ability to lull you into a trance. In a dreamlike state, ditch your watch, phone, or any other time-telling device. Where else do you need to be, besides Makalawena? The beach itself is fringed with very fragile anchialine pond ecosystems. These landlocked ponds have a subterranean connection to the ocean and will rise and fall with the tides. More than half of the world’s anchialine ponds are found in the Hawaiian Islands, and more than half of those are found on the Big Island. The extremely delicate ecological balance that exists in the pond is like a mirror, reflecting the overall health of the surrounding coastal ecosystem. Keep them clean. Enjoy them from a distance. In all your beach activities, use reef safe sunscreen. “Reef safe” means a mineral based sunscreen like zinc oxide, that contains no oxybenzone or other reef killing active ingredients that are nearly impossible to pronounce. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Kua Bay and Beyond Continuing up the coastline, you’ll see a small hill on the left named Kuÿili. This hill is actually a cinder cone, or puÿu in Hawaiian. Once you identify a puÿu, you’ll start to notice them everywhere. They are often created in a dramatic, fountaining, volcanic eruption. Imagine shaking up a bottle of champagne and popping the cork on New Year’s Eve. This is similar to how a puÿu is formed. As the fountaining, bubbling, molten rock gets rapidly cooled by the balmy air, it hardens and falls back down to the Earth. This pile of rocks forms a hill, similar to Kuÿili. There is a puÿu in Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park created by a fountain of lava that shot 1,900 feet into the air. That is taller than the Eiffel Tower, taller than the Empire State Building, and the largest lava fountain recorded in Hawaiÿi. A beach is nestled near the bottom of Kuÿili. It’s as if the puÿu is keeping a watchful eye over the small strip of sand or putting it to bed. Everyone casually calls this Kua Bay, but the beach itself is named Maniniÿöwali. Kua Bay might be the most popular beach destination for Kona residents. Not only is Kua close to town, but accessibility is a breeze. In 2004, a deal myhawaiitraveler.com 41

was struck with the neighboring luxury development called Kükiÿo and a road was paved, eliminating the previous need for a 4x4 truck. Kua Bay is fewer than seven miles away from the Kona International Airport. To the uninitiated, these lavastrewn seven miles can be disappointing compared to lofty expectations of a moist, green, and verdant Hawaiian paradise. The Big Island has these places—you just have to explore a bit more than seven miles to see them. Amazingly, the Big Island is only missing polar ice caps and the continental colds (picture warm summers with cold winters) according to the Köppen climate classification. Everything else—from rainforest to deserts to permanently frozen soil—grace our volcanic slopes. Explore these areas. Get amongst ecological diversity beyond the white sandy beaches and lush palm trees, but also enjoy the secrets that lie beneath the surface. Spend some time exploring the seemingly desolate landscape at the footstep of the airport. See how just 7 of the 266 miles of coastline can exceed even the loftiest of expectations. Better yet, see how dashed hopes can be resurrected with just a bit of research and open-minded exploration. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

SWIM WITH THE FISHES Explore the Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best snorkel spots. WORDS ANDREW WALSH

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

I’ve never seen a whale shark. But I’m sure one of

these days, having waited and imagined for many years, I’ll be out snorkeling off one of the beautiful beaches here on the Big Island and our time will come. Out of the blue, that rare majestic creature will come ambling by and surprise me. I also never thought I’d see a Hawaiian monk seal, as monk seals are both rare and endangered. But sure enough, while snorkeling along the vibrant edge of a busy reef off Puakö, an acrobatic, corkscrewing bullet shot through my periphery one ordinary day. At first, I was confused as to what in the world I could be seeing. And then in astonishment, it hit me—that’s a monk seal! And like so many times before, while snorkeling, I had that deep gratifying sense of awe, excitement, and flow. That feeling we all know—that you are exactly where you are supposed to be in that moment. It’s these incredible experiences I have had so many times, with so many countless wonderful underwater creatures, that builds the mystery, excitement, and motivation each time I strap my mask over curious eyes and secure my fins to ready legs. You just never know what wonders await you under Hawaiian waves. Of course, not all spots on the island are equal. Depending on what you hope to see and what level of comfort you have in the water, choosing the right location can make all the difference. To help make sure you have the best experience possible, I’m sharing my favorite 10 snorkel spots I love to revisit time and time again for that old familiar feeling.

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Captain Cook The monument at the northern end of Kealakekua Bay marks the demise of Captain James Cook at the hands and clubs of the Hawaiians he offended. Too bad he didn’t have a mask and snorkel, as it’s quite a peaceful place underwater. There are tour boats that leave from Kona (Fair Wind Big Island Ocean Guides (808) 345-6213) or you can rent a kayak and cross over the bay from the south side. You just might see dolphins swimming up and down through the bay as you paddle, or play and sleep underwater. The reef is a spectacular explosion of color, form, and function, and it’s a great place for beginners and experts alike. Beginning of the Road, Puakö Just before the marketplace on Puakö Beach Drive, there is a public access point for the shoreline on the opposite side. At the end of this short walk, you will find an incredible sandy beach for relaxing. Wade into the water and some wonderful snorkel pools and reef passages are ripe for exploring. Make sure the water is calm here, as the waves will break hard against the outer reef in rough conditions. It was just south of this spot where I saw my one and only Hawaiian monk seal, so in addition to the many varieties of fish and marine creatures, you just never know what might come swooshing by at Puakö.

End of the Road, Puakö At the very end of Puakö Beach Drive is another great reef in calm conditions. Park in the large dirt parking lot as you first arrive. At the south end of the parking area, there is a fishbowl rock structure perfect for entering the water safely (assuming good conditions). Head straight out perpendicular from shore until you see a valley start to form in the reef. Follow the valley out to the edge of the reef and hang a right, north. The amazing volcanic formations adorned with colorful corals, vibrant tangs, turtles, and countless creatures will keep you coming back over and over again. Just be mindful of the wave break at the south and north ends of this small bay as you proceed out. Makalawena Makalawena is both remote and beautiful. It is easily one of the prettiest beaches anywhere. The snorkeling isn’t top notch, but the overall experience is what makes this place so special. There are no lifeguards and just getting to the beach takes either a hike or a treacherous 4-wheel adventure. I recommend the hike. Park on the road approaching Mahaiÿula Beach, and hike north along the beach. Follow the Makalawena Trail to Mahaiÿula Beach and, at the grove of coconut trees at the beach’s end, you will see a desolate looking path carved across the lava, heading north. It is very short and drops you into the sweet embrace of Makalawena’s sandy shores. It’s very common to see swimming and sunbathing turtles. There is also an amazing keiki (kids) pool on the northern end that young and old alike will love to explore for some wading, waddling, or relaxing.

49 Black Sand Beach at Mauna Lani Resort 49 Black Sand Beach is a small, but often missed, snorkel spot that is one of my favorite beaches for relaxing and swimming. This black sand beach is nestled in the back of a beautiful cliff-lined bay (Honokaÿope Bay) off the Mauna Lani Resort properties. The snorkeling along the cliffs and on the south end of the beach is perfect for beginners assuming calm conditions. There is a great shoreline hike along the cliff tops up and down the bay to get a different perspective and to feel-out the snorkeling from above. To get to the beach, go to the 49 Black Sand Beach guard gate on the south end of the Mauna Lani Resort and ask the guard for a beach access pass. There are limited passes so shoot for a weekday or get there early. Häpuna Beach, North End This is a great area to try out snorkeling as much of Häpuna Beach is protected under the watchful eyes of seasoned lifeguards. On the northern end of the beach is a great little lagoon where turtles often float in the sandy, warm shallows. Follow the edge of the lagoon out towards the ocean where the rocky formations are home to many juvenile reef fish and beautiful patches of coral. There are even some swim-throughs for the adventurous free-divers. Just be mindful of the waves at Häpuna, especially the building sets as conditions can change—ask the lifeguards about the daily conditions before entering. After your snorkel, relax on the expansive gorgeous sands of Häpuna Beach or have a sandwich up at the resort and debrief on all the wonders you encountered underwater.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Two Step at the City of Refuge In ancient Hawaiÿi, if you could make it to this sacred City of Refuge, it was possible to dodge a death sentence for the crimes you had committed. These days, you can spend several hours touring the many significant sites at Puÿuhonua o Hönaunau National Historical Park and hiking the Royal Grounds including the historic 1871 Trail. It’s also a great place to see healthy corals, a spectacular variety of reef fish, and occasionally resident spinner dolphins. Most people just take “two steps” down into the water off the rocky areas on the shore. It is almost always occupied by divers and snorkelers, so just follow the other ocean-enthusiasts for the best places to enter and exit. Just make sure you don’t enter at Keoneÿele Cove, as this is an important cultural site. Please visit www.nps.gov/puho/planyourvisit/snorkeling. htm for more information about snorkeling Two Step. Waikoloa Snorkel Trip: Turtle Mound, Pentagon, and 6th Hole A great way to see the Waikoloa coastal reefs is via boat. Many options are available up and down the coast between the various hotels and independent operators. If you go, try for Pentagon, 6th Hole, or Turtle Mound. These are my three top reef locations anywhere. Pentagon is an amazing reef structure with five large openings, lava tubes, resident reef sharks, and every sort of creature you could hope to see in Hawaiÿi. 6th Hole, besides being an amazing snorkel spot, has a manta ray cleaning station. More often than not, you can hang out and watch these gentle giants getting pampered by cleaner fish and reef creatures. It’s also the best place I have found for seeing dolphins underwater, if the sea gods decide to smile down upon you. Finally, Turtle Mound is my favorite turtle cleaning station. I’ve seen up to eight turtles getting their shells polished here. The formations and other reef life are also out of this world. myhawaiitraveler.com

Kapoho Tide Pools, Pähoa Although there isn’t much snorkeling or diving on the East Side (due to the windward facing shoreline), the Kapoho Tide Pools are a wonderful collection of protected pools that guarantee some close reef encounters. I’ve often seen wonderful schools of fish, octopus (although these are so well camouflaged they can be hard to spot), and many different types of eels. Don’t go out though if there have been large rain storms in the days prior, as sometimes the pools can receive too much subsurface runoff from the nearby homes and community, which make conditions less than ideal for you and me. But locals and tourists alike call this place a favorite. Keaukaha Beach Park, James Kealoha “4-mile” Beach Park, Carlsmith Beach Park, and Richardson’s Ocean Park, Hilo Side The limited selection of snorkel spots on the Hilo side makes the beach parks off Kalanianaÿole Ave. a rare treat. All along this road you will find lagoons and beach parks protected from the heavy surf of the eastern winds and waves. Take your pick and visit a few different parks as each has a unique and special feel. There are generally lots of reef fish; and the turtles love taking a break in these protected lagoons, away from the rougher waters. The snorkeling can be a little colder in spots due to some freshwater streams, but the experience is worth the warmth. Some of the larger lagoons have nice showers for rinsing off and grassy areas for post-snorkel picnic enjoyment. If you only have time for one, I recommend Carlsmith Beach Park—it’s my favorite.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Reef Etiquette

As wonderful as time spent snorkeling can be for us, we want to make sure it’s a two-way interaction. Follow these tips for a safe and fun experience: •Hawaiÿi can have rip tides, currents, potentially dangerous marine creatures, and changing ocean conditions, including surprise sets of large waves. Know what the conditions are like before you go, and if you are unfamiliar with an area, stay in sight of lifeguard protected areas. •Coral reefs are the bedrock foundations to almost all life in Hawaiian waters. They look like colorful rocks, but in reality, these creatures are a colony of delicate living tissue surrounding the hard limestone “rock” that they secrete for living space. Don’t step on or kick the reefs as this can easily kill them. •Wear reef-safe sunscreen. One drop of oxybenzone in unsafe sunscreens can kill corals. Check the label, it will say “reef safe,” “coral safe,” or some version of that. Or, just check if it has oxybenzone in the ingredient list. Try and apply at least 20 minutes before you enter the water so it soaks into your skin. Other potential harmful chemicals in sunscreen include: butylparaben, octinoxate, and 4-methylbenzylidine camphor. •Don’t swim alone. Always use the buddy system, and let someone on land know where you are going and what you are doing. •Don’t feed the fish or any marine life. The less you touch them, the better it is for both parties. •Waste only time, take only pictures, and leave only bubbles. Easy right! It’s tempting to take a souvenir, but even empty shells have a place in the ecosystem. Plus, you want to avoid grabbing cone snail shells, as their venom can be very dangerous (they look like a beautiful ice cream cone without the ice cream in it). •It’s illegal to touch, harm, or hinder honu (turtles) and monk seals. You can get in serious trouble with the authorities, both legal and spiritual! Don’t get in between them and the surface or the open water. •Know the rules if you decide to do any fishing or spearfishing. There are many marine protected areas along the coast and specific rules apply to each. Check on the Division of Aquatic Resources (DAR) website for locations. •Have fun. Lots and lots of fun! myhawaiitraveler.com

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA Historic North & Sunny South Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops. Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline. Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i. The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp. Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else. Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story. Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime. Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land. 50

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

GOLF

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area. For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public. 18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

MAUNA LANI - SOUTH COURSE 52

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

M AUNA KEA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 3

It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i. With spectacular ocean views from every hole, both the Hapuna and Mauna Kea Golf Courses are sure to take your breath away. Try your hand at Mauna Kea, a course that helped define Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise or experience Hapuna’s unique Scottish links-style play. Both courses are highly awarded; the Mauna Kea has consistently ranked among Golf Digest’s top 100 courses. No matter which course you choose, you’re not likely to forget it. Master the unforgettable today by booking your preferred tee time online.

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 7

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 12

M A U N A K E A G O L F. C O M

STYLE

FLAWLESS STYLE

ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship. The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be

"HILDGUND IS FOREVER SEARCHING THE WORLD FOR PRECIOUS STONES THAT ARE TRANSFORMED INTO WONDROUS WORKS OF ART BY DESIGNERS FROM HAWAI‘I AND AROUND THE GLOBE."

proud to wear herself. Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls. This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

TIMELESS STYLE

Tiffany Paper Flowers necklace in platinum with pear-shaped and round brilliant diamonds. Price available upon request.

Tiffany Paper Flowers necklace in platinum with diamond and tanzanites, $11,500.00.

Tiffany Paper Flowers firefly ring in platinum with white diamonds and a yellow diamond. Price available upon request.

PHOTO COURTESY: TIFFANY & CO.

Tiffany Paper Flowers bracelet in platinum with pear-shaped, baguette and round brilliant diamonds. Price available upon request.

The Tiffany Paper Flowers collection and other timeless designs are available at Tiffany & Co. in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.

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STYLE

BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state. With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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PIECES OF PARADISE

Stunning designs by Anne Sisteron, featuring a 14KT Rose gold, Luxe Diamond Square Ring, $3,465.00 (left) and 14KT Rose Golf Diamond Ellie 1.15" Hoops, $4,255.00 (right) Available at Seaside Luxe in Hualālai Resort, home of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai.

Grand spaces deserve grand works of art, like Meeting in the Middle by Timothy Allan Shafto, which measures 36” high x 96” long. This original, mixed-media painting features Hawaiian koa wood and resin—creating a one-of-a-kind work of art that transports you to Hawaii, without being representational. To discover this, and more grand works of art by Hawai‘i’s master artists, visit Tiffany’s Art Agency in Hawi, or TiffanysArtAgency.com. .

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment! Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com. HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry. Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced

that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu. KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com. AHUALOA FARMS Ahualoa Farms sits on the slopes of Mauna Kea Volcano and began harvesting and offering great tasting macadamia nuts and Hawaiian coffee in 2005, selling products locally at farmers markets and small stores. Today, Ahualoa Farms

A CUT ABOVE

products have become highly praised and sought after worldwide. From delicious hand-picked and roasted macadamia nuts, to perfectly roasted coffees, they have something for everyone. Visit the store in Honoka‘a town or shop online at ahualoafarms.com. PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including, candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products. Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles. Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

QUEENSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net. SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort HualĂ¤laiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 3254765. THE SHOPS AT MAUNA LANI The Shops at Mauna Lani, located in the heart of the Kohala Coast, is THE place for that special combination of brand name quality and unique local craftsmanship. From designer fashions to casual beachwear, and unique custom accessories, you can find something wonderful for everyone. There are eight great dining options, from quick and casual to fine dining. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss our complimentary cultural lessons at 5:30pm on Mondays and Thursdays, followed by our famous hula show as well as Hawaii Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only 4D Adventure Ride theater. Join us for a uniquely Hawaiian Experience, located in the Mauna Lani Resort, open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. For more information, call (808) 885-9501 or visit our site at shopsatmaunalani.com. TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style â&#x20AC;&#x153;talk storyâ&#x20AC;? events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i. Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

COUNTRY ROAD Drive through the heart of the Big Island and discover unworldly beauty on Saddle Road.

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It’s hard to get lost on the Big Island. You can drive in a circle around it, or cut straight through its middle. The appeal of driving around its rim is clear— there are miles and miles of scenic ocean views. But while the journey through the heart of the island is quieter and perhaps less flashy than a drive along the coast, it is a journey that commands reverence as you travel along the intersection of the two impressive giants—Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The Saddle Road is often seen as a quick way to get between Kona and Hilo, but it also provides access to the Big Island’s largest mountains as well as unique terrain and off the beaten path treks that make the road itself a destination. While the road is officially called Hawaiÿi Route 200 or the Daniel K. Inouye Highway, you will generally only find Big Islanders referring to it as Saddle Road. It officially begins in Hilo and ends on the Kona side of the island where it intersects with the Mämalahoa Highway. The history of a “saddle” road on the Big Island can be traced back to 1849 when the first attempt was made to connect Kona to Hilo through the center of the island. Work was started on the road, but a Mauna Loa eruption in 1859 brought the construction to a halt with only 12 miles completed. Flash forward to 1941, and the United States had been drawn into World War II following a Japanese attack on American military bases on Oÿahu. The United States military established training facilities in the remote center of the Big Island, and the original Saddle Road was created in 1943 to provide access to the facilities. Back then, it was just a one lane, crudely constructed road. After the war, the road was widened and paved over time, but it was poorly maintained. Not too long ago, the Saddle Road had a bad reputation for being a treacherous drive, and rental cars were banned from the road. However, over the course of several years, the Saddle Road has been renovated, and it now provides about 50 miles of maintained surfaces. At its height, the Saddle Road reaches an elevation of over 6,600-feet, and you’ll feel it both in the chill of the air and in the decreased oxygen supply. At times, fluffy white clouds feel within reach; at other times, the fog brings an eerie feel to the lonely landscape. Legends about the Saddle Road abound with some of the most popular ones revolving around the volcano goddess, Pele. One legend advises those crossing the Saddle Road not to bring pork on their journey because of Pele’s turbulent relationship with Kamapuaÿa, the pig god who inhabits the windward side of the island. Another legend says that if you see a woman with white hair hitchhiking along Saddle Road, it is Pele, and you should always give her a ride. With or without the legends, the scenery of the Saddle Road often feels otherworldly as you pass by desolate lava fields and volcanic cinder cones. At mile marker 28 on the south side of the highway, Puÿu Huluhulu is an unlikely sight in the middle of a lava field. It is a kïpuka—an island of life that was spared by myhawaiitraveler.com

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

lava flows. Emerging out of an otherwise barren landscape, this hill is teeming with life. In Hawaiian, Puÿu Huluhulu translates to “hairy hill” and it is home to native Hawaiian trees such as koa. If you are planning to make your way up to Visitor’s Center or the summit of Mauna Kea, Puÿu Huluhulu is a great place to take a short hike to get slowly acclimated to the altitude. If you’re looking for a longer hike along the Saddle Road, Puÿu ÿÖÿö between the 22 and 23-mile markers offers an 8.7-mile loop hike. Along the trail you will encounter several kïpuka, which host endemic trees and wildlife. On the Puÿu ÿÖÿö hike, you can also find the Emesine Lava Tube, which requires a permit from the Department of Land and Natural Resources. Closer to Hilo, with two entrances between the 18 and 20-mile markers, the Kaümana Trail offers a shorter 3-mile hike. The Saddle Road provides access to both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. Mauna Kea is the more visited of the two, and the Mauna Kea Access Road is located across the highway from Puÿu Huluhulu. Mauna Kea provides a variety of activities including visiting the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy Visitor Information Station, watching the sun rise or set from its near 13,800-foot summit, and stargazing. myhawaiitraveler.com

Prepared adventure seekers can find the less traveled Mauna Loa Observatory Road just a little east of the Mauna Kea Access Road on the south side of the highway. It is a one-lane road that climbs from around 6,500 feet to over 11,000 feet over the course of 17 miles. From the observatory, you can take a 6.4-mile hike to the 13,679-foot summit of Mauna Loa. Though it is not as tall as Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa is the largest single mountain in the world when measured from the base. When traveling on the Saddle Road, be sure to come prepared with everything you need for your trip, as there are few services along the way. There are no gas stations, and cell phone service may be spotty. Check the weather and road conditions before you set out on a drive. Bring along any meals and snacks you plan to eat, as the only place to buy food is the Visitor Information Station on Mauna Kea, which has a very limited supply of snacks. Bring additional layers, especially if you plan on making stops along the road in the early or late hours of the day or during the winter snowy months, and take precautions to avoid altitude sickness such as drinking plenty of water. Regardless of what you choose to do on the Saddle Road, be sure to bring a sense of adventure and wonder as you explore the heart and soul of the island. 67

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70 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 76 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 80 THE HOT SPOT 82 SUMMER WINES 84 CULINARY Q&A

WAIKOLOA ‘AHI POKE AT ROY'S WAIKOLOA BAR & GRILL

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PHOTO COURTESY: ROY'S WAIKOLOA / CRAIG BIXEL

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AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

Brownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy tropical breezes beckon.

KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experienceâ&#x20AC;Śa place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital... Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guestsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; needs. The server and guest interaction promotes â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ohana. Childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (ages 5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12) menu is available. Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons HualĂ¤lai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai. BIG ISLAND BURRITOS A contemporary fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature Island Style Burritos, Loaded Rice Bowls, Local Farm Salads, and Fresh Soft Tacos! We have multiple styles and flavors to choose from. Their menu features straight-forward and self-explanatory menu items and caters to foodies looking for big burritos. Located in the food court at Queens' MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort.

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BROWNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Brownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats. Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m. Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

7:08 pm The moment the conversation came to a standstill. Your order arrives. All eyes are transfixed on your dish. The conversation revolves around flavor, taste and freshness. And suddenly you realize you wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be able to keep this place a secret for long. CALL 808 887 7368 VISIT FAIRMONT.COM/ORCHID-HAWAII

TASTE COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111. THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection. Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525. KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu. Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails. Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com.. 72

KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com. MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners. You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 885-2000. NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza

in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course. For reservations call (808) 882-5810. PUEO'S OSTERIA Pueo’s Osteria is an inviting, Italian-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun environment. Chef James Babian focuses on the finest Italian products paired with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms (sourced locally whenever possible), including “farm-fresh” products from local farmers’ markets. Engaging service, approachable pricing, great flavors and food await at Pueo’s Osteria – Food, Wine & Fun … “where the night owls meet.” Happy hour daily from 4pm until 6pm, with dinner served nightly from 5:30pm, and a bar menu offered until midnight. Sunday Brunch from 8:30am until 2pm. Smart casual attire. Located in Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center in Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 339-7966 for reservations or visit PueosOsteria.com. QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net. ROY'S WAIKOLOA Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service. Located in the King’s Shops, Roy’s Waikoloa opened 17 years ago among luxury resorts, residences and boutique shops. Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawai‘i Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake. Call (808) 8864321 or visit royshawaii.com for reservations.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona tropicstaphousekona.com 808-498-4507

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa tropicsalehouse.com 808-886-4287

Join us for local craft beers, fresh foods, live sports on 12 big screen tvs and superb hospitality!

Happy Hour 3-6 PM EVERYDAY

A contemporary , fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature islandstyle burritos, loaded rice bowls, local farm salads, and fresh soft tacos!

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT Queens' MarketPlace - Food Court bigislandburritos.com 808-339-7993 |

SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more. Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget. Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com. STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home,

vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com. THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allan Nagun has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations.

TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items. In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food. Tropics features a “Contemporary American Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily. Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information.

BIG ISLAND

Kawaihae

Seafood Bar & Grill FRESH LOCAL FISH DAILY FRESH FISH BURGERS CLAMS STEAKS PIZZAS SALADS Daily 11am - 11pm 5-6:30 Early Bird FRESH FISH Dinner Kiawe Smoked Prime Rib ~ Tuesday Nights Best Kawaihae Restaurant Trip Advisor Best Happy Hour 3-6pm West Hawaii Today Best Seafood West Hawaii Today

808-880-9393 Air-Conditioned 61-3642 Kawaihae Road

www.seafoodbarandgrill.com 74

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

TASTE ‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails, sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000.

KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com. KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets

are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com. RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949.

Fresh local ingredients highlight innovative dishes with Italian inspiration by Chef James Babian

Pueo’s Osteria Open Daily from 5pm Reservations 808.339.7566 | pueososteria.com Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center, Waikoloa Village

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arly birds and night owls rejoice! Pueo’s Osteria in Waikoloa Village has menus designed for all diners in mind, no matter what time of the evening they prefer to enjoy a great meal. From 5pm to 6pm, early birds can enjoy eight delicious dishes for just $8 each, served up as a spin on tapas—Italian style! It’s the perfect way (and time) to sample Pueo’s cravable menu and discover your own favorite from this very popular eatery. Tempting and satiating options from Pappardelle Bolognese featuring house-made noodles in a rich, meaty sauce and Crispy Shrimp in a briny caper aioli to Christine’s Chicken Marsala Meatballs with Hämäkua and porcini mushrooms, Lombardo Marsala and shave Parmesan. And you will be more than happy to eat your veggies with their seriously scrumptious Brussels Sprouts made with honey, balsamic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, chili and extra virgin olive oil or their Kale Salad from Kekela Farms with currants, toasted almonds and lemon garlic dressing. Early bird drink specials include wines by the glass for $7, well drinks for $5, and draft beers for $4.

Meanwhile, for the night owls, Pueo’s offers a special menu from 9:30pm until midnight that’s super appreciated among locals including those that work in the hospitality industry, as well as visitors looking for a satisfying food fix after a long day of sightseeing. Each night features a different special: Monday has $5 Flatbreads with options including Cheese and Pepperoni and a Daily Special; Tuesday features $8 Chicken Parm Grinders; and Wednesdays, their most popular night, features a $6 Tuscan Burger with $4 draft beers; Thursdays feature $2 Pizza Slices. Fridays and Saturdays, when the rest of Big Island businesses have long closed up shop, Pueo’s stays open until 2am! (They stop serving food at midnight.) On Sundays, they close at 10pm. If you’re an early bird or a night owl, Pueo’s is the place to be sighted. Pueo’s Osteria is located at 68-1845 Waikoloa Road in Waikoloa Village in the Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center, a few miles above the resort area. For more information, call (808) 339-7566 or at pueososteria.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

MEAT PARADISE

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

o foodie movement would be complete without a professional butcher shop to sell high quality, locally sourced meats. For those on the Big Island looking to kick their next BBQ up a notch, two new butcher shops have opened recently, providing foodies with the much needed protein connection for their next get together. Up in Hawaiÿi’s cattle ranching town, the Waimea Butcher Shop prides itself on being a whole animal butcher using sustainably and humanely raised animals produced right here on the Big Island. Owner Mills Stovall and his wife Kamalei opened the butcher shop in 2017 with the hopes of streamlining the market—providing locally raised meat to the people of our island without a middleman in between. All animals are raised without added hormones or antibiotics, and Waimea Butcher Shop proudly ensures that each purveyor of pork, lamb, poultry, or beef adheres to strict animal welfare standards. Further south, Kona Butcher Shop, located in downtown Kailua-Kona, has been open for about a year, and proudly serves locally raised meats and seafood grown and produced around the state. Their special in-house dry

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aging process results in flavorful, unique meat you cannot find anywhere else. Their shop includes other high-end specialty products that are hard to source around our island, including fresh black truffles and jamón ibérico (Iberian ham), available to the Big Island community. They also offer cooking demonstrations and agricultural lectures to help promote a more sustainable way of life for our island. No matter what part of the island you live on or are visiting, the movement towards more ethically and sustainably raised products is now closer than ever. Waimea Butcher Shop is located at 64-1032 Mämalahoa Hwy. in Waimea. Open Monday thru Saturday from 10am to 6pm. To learn more about their products, call (808) 657-4178 or visit their website at waimeabutchershop.com. Kona Butcher Shop is located in downtown Kailua-Kona within the Kopiko Plaza. Open Tuesday thru Friday from 10:30am to 6pm; Saturday, Sunday, and Monday from 11am to 5pm. Call (808) 796-6636 or visit konabutchershop. com to learn more about their products, specials, and upcoming events. 77

WATCH & DINE

hether you’re looking to just catch the latest blockbuster, looking for a quick bite to eat, a cocktail to sip, or all of the above, the Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas is our island’s ultimate movie hot spot. The Big Island’s only luxury cinema experience features high-quality screens and amazing surround sound, along with large, comfy chairs. Seats can be booked in advance, so for those who prefer to skip the coming attractions, you can take your time knowing your ideal seat is waiting for your arrival. The menu offers options such as gourmet street tacos featuring al pastor (shepherd style), short rib, lobster, and fresh fish, as well as a variety of pizza selections. They even offer 10 ½-inch Eisenberg Hot Dogs—try classic Chicago-style or a chili smothered Texas-style dog. Those who are looking for healthier options can choose from a range of salads, including a Blackened ÿAhi Salad or Avocado, Beet, Toasted Mac Nut, Goat 78

Cheese and Arugula Salad with a sweet house-made lilikoÿi (passion fruit) vinaigrette. Adding to the enjoyment is deciding where to eat—relaxing in the outdoor covered länai (patio) listening to live music, or having it delivered to your own cozy seat watching the newest released Hollywood production. If you’re in the mood for a cocktail, the Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas also features a full-service bar in the lobby, where guests can enjoy an adult beverage anywhere on premises: in the theater, the bar, or dining area. This delightful take on a dinner and a show is sure to be a hit with all movie lovers! Waikoloa Luxury Cinemas is located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in the Waikoloa Beach Resort area. For more information about dining selections, or to see what movies are currently playing, visit hawaiicinemas.com. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: WAIKOLOA LUXURY CINEMAS

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CREATIVE & CASUAL

hat do you get when you combine fresh, local ingredients, Mexican-inspired cuisine, and inventive reinterpretations of some old school favorites? Yummy food! Big Island Burritos, located within the Queens’ MarketPlace in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, takes a “fresh kitchen” philosophy and combines it with creating locally inspired twists on flavorful Mexican food. The process is as easy as 1, 2, 3, where you pick your style, your flavor, and finally your salsa. For style, you can either have a burrito, soft taco, rice bowl, nachos, taco salad, or more. Their flavors include local favorites like huli chicken with slow-cooked, smoked chicken, shredded cabbage, guacamole, and pineapple salsa, and kälua pig with slow-roasted shredded pork, sautéed cabbage, spicy sriracha sour cream, and pico de gallo. Both are delicious interpretations of local cuisine.

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Their menu also features new creations, such as the bulgogi (Korean BBQ marinade) flavor with sweet and spicy marinated beef and kimchee slaw, and the sisig (Filipino style), using crispy pork belly topped with a citrus-adobo sauce. Of course, they feature more traditional options, such as carne asada, and the salsas range from mild up to the Hawaiian chili pepper hot. No matter which direction you choose, Big Island Burritos has an option for all diners in your group, and with such creative, tantalizing options in a very casual setting, this Mexican-inspired pit stop never sounded so good. Big Island Burritos is located in the food court of the Queens’ Marketplace located within the Waikoloa Beach Resort area. To check out their menu, visit bigislandburritos.com

THE

HOT SPOT

‘ULU I

OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE

t’s safe to say that Hawaiÿi is blessed with an overabundance of beautiful scenery, delectable food, and world-class service. The challenge, though, is getting all three in one place when dining out—consistently. Fortunately, ÿULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge, a unique dining experience at the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai, exceeds in all three of the important criteria, bringing delicious cuisine with five-star service in an enviable setting. Whether celebrating that big special occasion, or just looking for an exceptional night out, ÿULU lives up to its reputation as being one of the most luxurious dining experiences on the island. First things first: the setting. Situated just a few steps away from the sandy beach of the North Kona coastline, ÿULU’s location is hard to beat. With stunning nightly sunsets as your plus-one dining companion, those looking to celebrate a special evening with that special someone need not look any further. Because of the remote location of the resort in general, diners won’t be bombarded by the hustle and bustle of other oceanfront dining experiences on the west side, happily leaving out car traffic and other nuisances. Instead, guests are treated to the sounds of waves crashing on the shore, and the low murmur of their fellow diners. Voted as one of 80

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the top 100 Most Romantic Restaurants in America and 100 Best Al Fresco Dining Restaurants in America by OpenTable, those seeking an evening beachfront under the stars should reserve here. Next, the cuisine. The culinary team of Executive Chef Thomas Bellec and Chef de Cuisine of ÿULU, Chad Yamamoto, follow their motto of “R.S.A.,” or Regional, Seasonal and Artisanal. Their aim to provide sustainably produced products, grown locally here on the Big Island results with 75% of the items on the menu grown or produced nearby. Because of the Big Island’s diversity of climate and abundance of farmland, this results in plenty of high quality options, from the freshest seafood to locally grown fruits and vegetables. The results are memorable, delicious food—stunningly composed dishes that are more than just Instagram-worthy, that truly delight all of the senses. Two new dishes have been recently added that can’t be missed. Chef Chad’s refined take on a local favorite, the ÿAhi “Loco Moco,” with ÿahi (yellowfin tuna) tartare, oozy quail egg, sitting on top of a bed of sushi rice, and topped with a savory kabayaki gravy—looks almost as good as it tastes. This elegant spin on a local staple combines the sophistication of upscale dining combined with BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI

cravable flavors and concepts that have stood the test of time. Another can’t-miss dish is the Kona Kanpachi Crudo. Using only local and sustainably raised Hawaiian Kanpachi, with the light additions of a green apple shiso su and a briny topping of shio-kombu (Japanese kelp) makes this refreshing dish a standout. And if you are a fan of sushi, ÿULU has one of the best sushi offerings if not the best on island—it definitely exceeds expectations. From land and sea, the main entrées are further broken down into three categories: Oven-Roasted, Flame-Grilled, or Wok-Fired. The Charred Hawaiian Hapuÿupuÿu with lemongrass creamed Hilo corn, romesco, and yuzu beurre blanc features flavors that nearly whisk you away to Asia, but are delightfully grounded here in Hawaiÿi. Save room for dessert. It’s difficult to choose just one from their tempting options from Lilikoÿi Apple Tarte Tatin and Hibiki Butterscotch Pudding, but the decadent Soufflé of the Evening comes with a warm crème anglaise poured tableside and is always a gratifying way to top off an amazing dinner. Lastly, we come to the service. Of course, it might be taken for granted because ÿULU is located within Four Seasons Resort Hualälai that the service will be top notch. But even in a place myhawaiitraveler.com

where service is celebrated, the staff at ÿULU are always warm and accommodating, without being stuffy and formal. Servers are always available when needed, but not so obsequious that it feels like your meal is constantly interrupted. From the moment you check in at the hostess stand, until you receive the check, every moment of the dining experience by each member of the staff is perfectly timed and executed seamlessly, leaving each guest free to appreciate the food and ambiance without a single concern. With a vast wine list featuring selections of boutique wines and sake, the dining experience at ÿULU has everything you need for that extraordinary night out to just relax dining under the heavenly stars. From the stunning scenery, delectable dishes, and warm inviting service, each meal at ÿULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge is always a delicious memory. ÿULU Ocean Grill + Sushi Lounge is located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. Reservations are strongly recommended, and can be made by calling (808) 325-8000. Bar seating with an incredible view is available without reservations. Complimentary valet parking available. Visit uluoceangrill.com for more information. 81

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WINE THROUGH SUMMER From dry Furmint of Hungary to Provençal Rosé, give in to the current wine trends and discover a new favorite. WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

emperatures are rising and rather than reaching for the usual bottle of wine, many sommeliers are leaning towards innovative and unexpected styles to satisfy their wine thirsts. Rather than being bogged down with rules, many are urging wine lovers to follow their palates while exploring the world of wine to find pairings that suit individual penchants and tastes. This summer, the search for indigenous white varietals is gaining traction to broaden experiences with wine and establish new flavor profiles. One grape on everyone’s lips is the Hungarian varietal, Furmint. Dating back to as early as the 13th century, this white grape offers a racing acidity making it versatile to enjoy as a still wine, sparkling wine, or even done in a luscious dessert style. The Furmint rendition popular at the moment is a dry style, which typically offers flavors of ripe pears and juicy limes wrapped around a whisper of smoke. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company is a leader in the renaissance of Hungarian winemaking and offers their 2015 “The Oddity” Dry Furmint ($17.99/bottle; klwines.com) for wine connoisseurs to enjoy the world over. With a beautiful nose of white flowers, cinnamon, and gooseberries, this wine is refreshing from sip to sip with a notably juicy finish. When pairing with food, this dry Furmint can withstand a dish with a little bit of 82

heat such as Kauaÿi Shrimp sautéed in a sweet and spicy chili sauce. The light body of this dry Furmint won’t compete with the tender succulence of the locally grown shrimp while the crispness of the wine cuts the heat found in the dish and serves as a palate cleanser between bites. Another breathtaking indigenous white grape entertaining markets worldwide is Chenin Blanc grown in the Loire Valley of Western France. Slowly overtaking Riesling as the darling wine of sommeliers for its foodfriendliness, this white varietal brings a sparkling acidity and neutral palate allowing the terroir and growing conditions of a region to shine through. In Loire, Chenin Blanc is fermented at higher temperatures, which reduces the tropical fruit flavors found in bottlings from other parts of the world and bring out a more refined palate of yellow apples, quince, lemon verbena, and jasmine. One standout Chenin Blanc is the 2016 Champalou Vouvray from Vouvray, Touraine in the Loire Valley ($19.99/bottle; wine.com). Elegant and tender, this expression of Chenin Blanc features a sensual blend of honey and white acacia blossoms, and the slow fermentation features only indigenous yeasts creating an authentic representation of this grape. The body and flavors of this Chenin Blanc call for a dish that has a bit more weight such as a tender lobster tail served with a creamy ginger BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

vinaigrette. The fleshiness of this wine and lingering minerality on the finish complements the slightly shellfish flavors of the lobster tail while the creamy ginger vinaigrette won’t overpower the dish since this wine’s bold, yet feminine, flavors stand their ground. Another wine trend to anticipate is consumers leaning towards conscientiously created wines as in the case of biodynamically created wines. The philosophy of Biodynamic agriculture is associated with the ideas of Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925) who believed in a holistic approach to farming and the interconnectivity between the earth, vine, and winemaker. Steiner advocated for planting calendars, placing compost at specific places in a vineyard, avoiding pesticides, and allowing other animals such as ducks or sheep to live at the vineyard serving as natural creators of fertilizer. One vineyard living true to the biodynamical theory of winemaking is the Benziger Family Winery who aims to create wines with character and consciousness. Their 2016 Paradiso De Maria Sauvignon Blanc ($36/ bottle; benziger.com) offers flavors of honeysuckle, crisp apples, and ripe citrus along with a certified Biodynamic endorsement. When enjoying a tender piece of grilled Big Island abalone, a classical pairing for abalone is traditionally a glass of French Chardonnay but this Sauvignon Blanc from Benziger provides the same creaminess as a French Chardonnay with refreshing and unexpected flavors of Sauvignon Blanc. The hints of ripe apricots and peaches complement the smokiness imparted during the grilling process while the chalkiness and pure finish won’t overpower the delicate meat of the abalone. One final wine trend going strong this summer is the turn towards Provençal Rosé whose effortlessness and ease to drink make it a sure bet when pairing the lighter foods enjoyed during summer. While some might scoff at the pale colors of Provençal Rosé, there is a surprising assertiveness found in this wine as well as a hint of dry herbs, red berries, and spices typical of the style of wine from this area. The 2016 Château de la Noblesse Bandol ($19.99/bottle, klwines.com) is a blend of zesty Mourvèdre, floral Grenache, and inky Cinsault proving to be the perfect wine to enjoy with a dish such as grilled mahi-mahi simply seasoned with olive oil, saffron, and twist of fresh lemon. The palate of wild strawberries and blood oranges provides a refreshing palate cleansing boost while the hint of herbs and lavender bestowed upon this wine from the fields of lavender synonymous with the region mingle beautifully with the saffron in the dish. Whether experiencing an obscure white wine from a far region of the world or searching for a mindfully created Biodynamic wine, the wines of this summer are far from typical yet still every bit delicious. myhawaiitraveler.com

WINE TIPS

Don’t forget to try uncommon grapes grown right in the United States! Most wines are produced from the grape species of Vitis vinifera (common grape vine), but there are many other species to enjoy, grown in the US, including Vitis labrusca whose wines are often known as “foxy” and Vitis aestivalis (summer grape), which brings high acid, low tannins, and lots of flavors like dark cherries and robust chocolate to the table. Be adventurous, but play it smart. Ask for wines by-the-glass list to introduce your palate to more atypical varietals and styles of wine to expand your horizon. It’s the best way to discover a new favorite without committing to a full bottle you may not even enjoy. If you’re searching for Biodynamic wines to purchase, remember to look globally. From Argentina to Australia, more and more international winemakers are embracing this winemaking approach. Get ready for some funk. When some sommeliers read the word “Biodynamic” on a wine bottle, they might brace themselves for funk, earth, and all the goodness that comes with a wine singing the praises of the earth. Avoid aging Biodynamic wines. Most Biodynamic wines taste best when consumed within the first few years of production. Cellaring a Biodynamic wine that doesn’t have aging potential might mean losing out on the nuances that made this wine special in the first place. Research the sites or stores you purchase from. Things like controlled temperatures and proper packaging techniques ensure the wine delivered to your doorstep tastes as the winemaker intended it to. Try opening a larger format bottle such as a magnum (1.5 L). Not only impressive, many sommeliers swear that there is additional magic imparted on wines created in magnums and larger formats versus regular (750 mL) bottles. 83

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CULINARY Q&A EXECUTIVE CHEF NICK MASTRASCUSA WORDS BROOKE REHMANN IMAGES BACANA HAWAII

Growing up in Uruguay, Chef Nick Mastrascusa was surrounded by his family’s passion for great food. Tapping into their Mediterranean roots for inspiration, Chef Nick’s cuisine as executive chef of Kūki‘o Golf and Beach Club combines the fresh local ingredients of the Big Island, but is presented with a European flair. Having previously played professional soccer, Chef Nick hung up his jersey for a chef’s jacket, leading him on a culinary adventure all the way to our shores. With access to some of the freshest ingredients on our island, coupled with his skill and passion for delicious cuisine and wine, Chef Nick consistently brings his A-game to those lucky enough to experience his creations. 84

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Tell us about one of your earliest food memories. Why does it stand out? In Uruguay, it’s tradition that every 29th of the month you have gnocchi for dinner served with a slow-braised beef ragù. My mother happens to make some of the best I’ve ever had. They are so good that, to this day, I won’t attempt to recreate them. Who was your biggest culinary inspiration, and what made them so influential to you? Personally, my family—coming from Sicilian and Spanish backgrounds, food was always very important. Everyone would always have dinner together and, in special occasions family and friends would join, but the respect that was given to the food and to those who took the time and effort to prepare has always been a big part of me. You’re originally from Uruguay. What originally drew you to Hawaiÿi from a culinary perspective, and what inspires you to stay? After living in NYC for two years working for Four Seasons, I was approached by Robert Whitfield, former GM at the time for Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. He shared the goals he had for the reopening of a very myhawaiitraveler.com

special restaurant called Beach Tree. After discussing the opportunity with my wife over some nice scotch, I found myself arriving around 10pm on a very dark night to the Big Island of Hawaiÿi. The plan was to stay for a year and see how things unfolded. The rest is history. You had the opportunity to play soccer professionally. Can you tell us about how you decided to make cooking your life’s work? I always had a passion for cooking and eating good food that was prepared with care and dedication. As for inspiration and the decision of making cooking a career, I have to give it to some really special instructors Drue Brandenburg, Larry La Castra, and Chef James Hensley that I had the pleasure to meet at Johnson & Wales University in North Miami. During this period, I started working at The Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables where the Executive Chef at the time, Geoffrey Cousineau, was a true mentor and role model for me. I also worked alongside Anthony Zamora while at The Biltmore, a former alumnus from Johnson & Wales who I consider a very important person during my early career. He happens to be one of the best chefs I’ve ever worked for. 85

How would you describe your cuisine? The cooking I enjoy the most is ingredient driven, simple in its approach, and usually from Mediterranean background. You cater to very discerning palates. What is your biggest challenge in meeting the culinary expectations of your guests? The members and guests that dine in our restaurants are well traveled and truly have a passion for quality and great cuisine. Our goal is to stay true to our cooking approach presented with wonderful casual service, lots of smiles, and always keeping innovation present. What are some memorable experiences you’ve had as a chef? There are so many memorable moments in my career, but I believe it’s the journey and the people you meet along the way that makes it special. The chef often gets all the attention, but it’s because of great teams that chefs have the opportunity to shine. This is usually missed and not recognized. What are some of your favorite local ingredients to use in your dishes? The uncommon fish that exist here in Hawaiÿi beyond the mahi-mahi and the ono (wahoo). These are some of my favorites: nabeta (parrotfish), weke ÿula (yellowfin goatfish), moi (threadfish), and mostly the mü (bigeye emperor fish).

Kükiÿo has its own farm and bee colony. Can you tell us about what you’re growing and how you incorporate it into your cuisine? As a chef with an ingredient-driven mentality you can imagine that it doesn’t get any better, not to mention the uniqueness that it gives the dishes that are created with each harvest. What would be on your “dream” dinner menu, and who would join you? It would probably be a fishing and hunting feast with lots of large format bottles of fantastic wines, family, and close friends. Only what was caught would be on the menu, and it would probably last a few days. What advice would you give to aspiring young chefs or home cooks to elevate their kitchen skills? To the young chef: have more desire than the rest, be reliable, work hard, and always make decisions based on what’s best for the guest and not what’s best for you. To the home cook: be an aggressive shopper, have good quality pantry ingredients and take a few fun, hands-on, basic cooking classes whenever possible. You have accomplished a lot in your young age and won many awards. What would you like to accomplish that you haven’t already? There are always new challenges and goals to achieve. I enjoy the continued journey of learning to be a better chef, meeting new passionate people that work hard to strive to create a great product, but most importantly, continuing to create memorable experiences through food. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BIZARRE BITES

Broaden your palate with these deliciously strange delicacies. WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

Some people dream of eating a perfectly cooked juicy steak, some enjoy the freshness of a vegetable picked from their garden. Yet others, perhaps with more of an adventurous streak, find themselves drawn to bizarre eats, the food that others turn (run) away from. For the adventurous eaters here on island, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in luck. And for those who find themselves on the fence, trying some of these more unusual Big Island bites may be the best gateway into a world of food that has perhaps been elusive.

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Recently, I toured the Big Island Abalone Corporation farm located within the Natural Energy Lab of Hawaii Authority (NELHA). At NELHA, various companies use the cold seawater harvested from thousands of feet below the ocean floor for a variety of different purposes. There, at Hawaiÿi’s largest abalone producer, the tour takes you through the facilities where guests can witness the different stages of abalone cultivation, from juvenile abalone to the larger, fully shelled adult. This strange looking creature almost looks like a slimy tongue with a beautiful, iridescent shell on its back. Though they are strange looking, once you experience the taste with an open mind, you’ll forgive its unusual appearance. It has a delicately mild taste, not too briny or overpowering, with a slightly chewy texture reminiscent of calamari. World-renowned chefs use Big Island Abalone in a variety of dishes served whole or added to sushi. Hiroshi Arai, the CEO of Big Island Abalone Corporation, and his wife and team are passionate about these edible marine mollusks. Their facilities grow nearly five million Ezo (Japanese Northern) abalones alone; and each creature takes up to 36 months to mature. They feed off of kelp that is also grown at the facilities, and sea cucumbers purify the water that the abalone lives in. As each abalone matures, they are moved from different tanks, starting off in a nursery of sorts when they are young and very tiny, then to other tanks as they reach a larger size. According to Hiroshi, smaller ones are edible, but he thinks bigger is better—that’s when they get chewier, the preferred texture. But how does one eat or prepare an abalone? Hiroshi mentions that abalone is a very traditional delicacy in Japanese and Chinese culture, and chefs across the Pacific Rim and beyond use their products in upscale restaurants. To prepare abalone, it can be

eaten simply by itself, grilled, steamed, or served raw sashimi-style with some rice. Other dishes include abalone chowder, abalone pasta, served yakitori style, or as an option for a delicious poke bowl. Guests are encouraged to stop in and pick up some abalone for their upcoming meals. At their headquarters in NELHA, they sell abalone by the piece, by weight, or even canned to take delicious souvenirs or gifts for friends and family back home. Looking for another strange food to tackle this vacation? ÿOpihi is a sea snail (limpet) that clings to the rocky shoreline of the Hawaiian Islands and is a favorite with locals across the state. With its conicalshaped shell, ÿopihi “stick” to the lava rocks around the shoreline maneuvering to eat algae. Brave ÿopihi pickers use a butter knife or paint scraper to pluck the little snails from the rocks, but one wrong move alerts the ÿopihi, forcing it to suction itself even stronger to its home. The entire process of collecting ÿopihi might sound like a fun Hawaiian adventure, but be advised, picking ÿopihi can be a deadly activity. Being swept away by a rogue wave or thrown back against the shore, more people have died picking ÿopihi than have been killed by shark attacks and has been dubbed the “Fish of Death” although it’s not a fish—no matter it’s the deadliest catch and should not be attempted. Because of the danger, and in some cases, overfishing of the little limpets, the price for ÿopihi is generally higher than most other seafood dishes in Hawaiÿi. However, sprinkled with a dash of sea salt, a piece of limu seaweed, and eaten as a form of poke, and you’re in for a real treat. Some prefer to grill ÿopihi and add a dash of hot sauce and soy sauce to complete the bite. However you choose to eat it, one thing is for sure, it’s not something you’ll find on menus in many places other than right here in Hawaiÿi so don’t miss the opportunity to order it when you see it.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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Another peculiar food from the sea that is more common than you might think is algae. Algae are found in many dishes you may have already eaten such as sushi and miso soup and is most commonly known as seaweed. Seaweed can also be found in a popular Japanese flavoring mix known as furikake, sprinkled on top of your two scoops of rice as a flavor bomb. You can also eat seaweed on its own as dried sheets called nori, or wrapped around a favorite Hawaiian snack, Spam musubi. Seaweed is known as a nutritious source of protein, as well as many vitamins and minerals, so eat up! Another treasure from the sea that you might not expect to eat is the sea cucumber. These saltwater creatures are delicacies in Asian cultures. While flavorless, their spongy texture easily takes on the flavors and spices that they are cooked with. Also known for their nutritional value, sea cucumbers have an almost mythical reputation in East and Southeastern Asia for their healing powers. If you choose to embark on your own sea cucumber adventure, make sure that you are eating from a sustainable source, as the harvesting of wild sea cucumbers is not sustainable here in Hawaiÿi. For the most adventurous eaters, I’ve saved the strangest one for last. If you’re familiar with uni, then it needs no introduction, but for the uninitiated, uni is the Japanese name for sea urchin gonads, and not its roe (eggs), though it produces it. Resembling a golden cow tongue, served fresh, uni is creamy, decadent, 90

slightly briny, and beloved by foodies around the globe. Diners should keep an eye out for uni that is brightly colored, firm and not excessively wet to know that it is fresh. Any uni that looks shriveled and liquid-y is to be avoided. Uni is often eaten raw in nigiri sushi or sashimi, but can also be found in creamy pasta dishes, and even on the ubiquitous toast movement sweeping the nation. Whatever food you’re in the mood for here in Hawaiÿi, from typical American fare, local kine grindz, or more adventurous eats like the ones mentioned above, you’ll find skilled and knowledgeable chefs ready to prepare a delicious meal all across the island. If you’re a typically tepid eater, perhaps this trip may be the time to try out a new unexplored item in a place where they are freshly plucked from the water or raised on our shores. Who knows, perhaps you’ll become the newest member of the adventurous eaters club? Big Island Abalone Corporation is located at 73-357 Makako Bay Drive, within the NELHA area, south of the Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keähole in Kailua-Kona. They offer guided tours of their facilities every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday in Japanese and English. Reservations are required. To make reservations, or to find out more about their product and their gift shop hours, visit their website www.bigislandabalone.com or call (808) 334-0034. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Out of This World Fruit Finds

Rambutan – This alien-from-another-world looking fruit with a red exterior and spikes that look like hair is hiding a slightly sweet treat inside. Cut the exterior to find the clear flesh inside. They turn red, orange, or yellow when ripe. Buddha’s Hand – This strange-looking citrus fruit has tentacles coming out from its core, resembling fingers. Buddha’s hands are mostly used in cooking for its zest, or just kept around the house for its pleasant citrus aroma. Cherimoya – This South American native fruit is notoriously hard to grow in tropical climates. Its fruit yields a smooth, delicate flavor, but stay away from the black seeds—they are toxic! Dragon Fruit – This colorful fruit is actually grown on a vinelike cactus. Look for bright, even-colored skin to choose the myhawaiitraveler.com

freshest ones at the market. They have a white, red, or pink flesh with lots of seeds, and are perfect for fruit salads or smoothies. Star Fruit – These waxy, green fruit indigenous to Southeast Asia are named for their cross-sections that resemble the shape of a star. The entire fruit can be eaten, even the skin, so when they show up on the breakfast buffet at your hotel, eat up! Breadfruit – Breadfruit, or ÿulu, was a staple of the ancient Hawaiian diet and was brought over as a canoe plant. It is very starchy and can be eaten mashed or even roasted in the imu pit with kälua pork. If you are lucky enough to come across some, try frying thin-sliced ‘ulu to make yummy chips. You will never go back to potatoes. Lychee – This small, thick-skinned clear fruit is the perfect summer harvest. They are sweet and tart, perfect for summer cocktails, salads, or for a mid-afternoon snack. 91

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all. 92

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

L ET EXPLORE O UR O C EA N AWAKONA K EN YO U R OUR S ENS E OF AWE A ND WON D E R

AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form. Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity. Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides. We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “... May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com.

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound. Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

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UMAUMA FALLS ZIPLINE AND RAPPEL EXPERIENCE

Create an unforgettable memory with your family and friends while on the Big Island of Hawaii. Breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean, beautiful waterfalls and lush rainforest of the Hamakua Coast await you. Zip on 9 thrilling ziplines designed for both beginners and experts, including our 2,060 ft. dual zipline and amazing 200 ft. suspension bridge. Swim & Kayak in the Umauma River or combine them for a Zip & Dip adventure you will never forget! Be sure to stop and enjoy our Visitors Center and Tropical Garden Walk and Umauma Falls viewing area. You will be talking about your Umauma Experience for years to come! Located on the beautiful Hamakua Coast in Hakalau at 31-313 Old Mamalahoa Hwy. Call (808) 930-9477 or visit umaumaexperience.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants. Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441. 93

ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar. The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology. Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters. Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches. If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters. Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 94

the week (Reg. $29). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499. All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other. The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience. Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility. Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive. Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5. Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the

tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset. Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270. Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes. Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park. Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19. Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built. Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE TODAY!

(808) 885-7883 Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743

property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

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MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States. Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve. Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo. Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free. Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays. Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. myhawaiitraveler.com

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

DESTINATIONS

EAST HAWAI‘I

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland. In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors. Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty.

Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island. North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights. The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks. Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess. Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world. BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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GO COASTAL Discover Hāmākua’s iconic waterfalls, verdant valleys, and sleepy towns frozen in time. WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

The H채m채kua Coast is a place of quiet drama. It is untamed land that has few beaches, but is rich in history, lush landscapes, and sweeping views. For intrepid travelers who want to ensure that they see all corners of the Big Island, the H채m채kua Coast awaits. > > >

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The Hämäkua Coast is located on the northeastern shore of the Big Island, starting just above Hilo and ending in the dramatic valleys where Mauna Kea converges with Kohala Mountain near the northern tip of the island. The outer boundaries of the Hämäkua Coast are the most well-known as they hold two popular attractions—ÿAkaka Falls on the southern side, and Waipiÿo Valley on the northern side. These sites are stunning natural wonders that tourists and locals alike revere. But in between and beyond these spots, the Hämäkua Coast offers adventure and discovery for those looking to explore one of the less traveled sides of the Big Island. At the southern edge of the Hämäkua Coast is the small town of Pepeÿekeo. Here you can take a 4-mile scenic drive that leads to Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens. This botanical garden is teeming with over 2,000 species of tropical plants including a variety of palm trees, a rainbow of hibiscus flowers, and trees dripping with mangoes if the season is right. If gorgeous tropical plants alone are not enough for you, a stroll through this garden will also take you by a natural three-tiered waterfall and provide views of Onomea Bay and its jagged coastline. Further north is the dramatic ÿAkaka Falls, one of Hawaiÿi’s most iconic waterfalls. A short 0.4-mile loop trail leads to an overlook where you’ll have an excellent view of the waterfall dropping 442-feet into the gorge below. If you’re still craving more waterfalls after visiting ÿAkaka, stop by Umauma Experience (808-930-9477), which offers outdoor adventure activities such as ziplining, rappelling, and kayaking amid the scenery of Umauma Falls. Along a drive on the Hämäkua Coast, striking views are abundant. In contrast to the starkly beautiful lava landscapes 100

that are common on the west and south sides of the island, this is older land that receives ample rainfall, and it is thick with green vegetation. As you wind along the Hawaiÿi Belt Road, here and there through the palm trees and tufts of sugarcane are glimpses of the Pacific Ocean. Approximately halfway along the Hämäkua Coast, Laupähoehoe is small town with a haunting past. On April 1, 1946, an earthquake in the Aleutian Islands triggered a tsunami that spread across the Pacific. At the time, Laupähoehoe had a school in the flat valley near the beach. The tsunami swept across the valley and claimed the lives of twenty students and four teachers. Today, there is a monument to those who lost their lives in the tsunami, and some say that they still feel a quiet eeriness in the atmosphere. Laupähoehoe means “leaf of lava” or “lava tip,” and it is named for the sharp lava that lines its rugged coastline. Laupähoehoe Beach Park is one of the few and the most accessible beaches along the Hämäkua Coast. It is a challenging place to swim due to its rocky shore, but its serene yet powerful scenery more than makes up for the lack of swimming. While much of the Hämäkua Coast feels remote, the Kalöpä State Recreation Area in the Hämäkua Forest Reserve takes that feeling to another level. At an elevation of 2000-feet, the native trees and plants at this park are often shrouded in mist. When you visit Kalöpä, you may forget that you are in Hawaiÿi amid the fog, chilly weather, and tall trees. Introduced by Portuguese immigrants who came to work on the sugar plantations in the late 1800s, the doughy donuts known as malasadas are a favorite treat in Hawaiÿi. Over time, local flavor was added to malasadas, and you can now find them BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

with tropical fruit fillings such as haupia (coconut pudding), guava, and lilikoÿi (passion fruit) or in flavors such as taro. While there are ongoing debates about who serves the best malasadas in Hawaiÿi, the fresh filled malasadas at TEX Drive In in Honokaÿa are undeniably in the running. While strolling along Mamane Street, the sleepy main drag of Honokaÿa, it may come as a surprise that you’re in the largest town on the Hämäkua Coast. Like many other historic towns on the Big Island, Honokaÿa was once a bustling sugar plantation town in the 19th century. Long after the downfall of Hawaiÿi’s sugar industry, Honokaÿa maintains the air of a town frozen in time. One of its most prominent buildings is the Honokaÿa People’s Theater, which has been hosting movies and performances since 1930. With its historic buildings, Honokaÿa has a frontier feel and it embraces its paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) history. Each year, the town hosts a Western Week event at the end of May that features line dancing, rodeos, and a parade. Honokaÿa is also home to the weekly Hämäkua Harvest Farmers Market, which runs every Sunday from 9am to 2pm. Another popular local event is the Monthly Mamane Night Market held by the Hawaiian Cultural Center of Hämäkua on the 3rd Friday of every month. Honokaÿa serves as the gateway to Waipiÿo Valley, also known as the Valley of the Kings. As you might guess from its nickname, Waipiÿo was once home to many Hawaiian aliÿi (kings). The overlook at Waipiÿo Valley alone is worth the visit. If you want to venture down into the valley, you’ll need either a 4-wheel drive vehicle, a tour group, or the power of your own feet. The road down is steep, narrow, and rugged, so it is only recommended for drivers who are familiar with the road, and some rental car companies may prohibit the drive. Regardless of how you choose to get down to the valley floor, at the bottom, you’ll be greeted with a black sand beach as well as more impressive views of the valley’s cliffs and the 1,450-foot Hiÿilawe Waterfall in the distance. While the road ends at Waipiÿo, there’s still more. For highly active and adventurous explorers, Waimanu Valley is at the western boundary of the Hämäkua Coast. This remote valley is only accessible via foot from Waipiÿo. The hike to get there is over 15 miles round trip if you start at the bottom of Waipiÿo, and 19 miles round trip if you start from the Waipiÿo Lookout. As this is a long and arduous hike, camping in the valley and breaking up the hike over two days is recommended. In order to camp in Waimanu, you’ll need to make a reservation through the Department of Land and Natural Resources. Far from the resorts of the west side and the popular Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park on the south side, the Hämäkua Coast often feels delightfully remote. Through both its landscapes as well as its history, it offers a unique glimpse into what has shaped the Big Island as we know it today. No matter what adventures you choose to experience on the Hämäkua Coast, it is a profound and fulfilling part of the island to explore. myhawaiitraveler.com

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BLACK BEAUTY Take a stroll on sand as dark as night and take in the significant history of Punaluâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;u. WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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t can be hard to imagine what might have gone through the minds of the first Polynesians who arrived in Hawaiÿi nearly two thousand years ago. After months of sailing through a vast ocean, any land sighting would have been a sight for sore eyes, never mind stumbling across a dramatic and immensely beautiful landscape. Yet, as has been suggested, the first landing of ancient Polynesians has long been thought to be a ruggedly beautiful black sand beach along the southeast coast of Hawaiÿi Island called Punaluÿu. Today, those who visit the Big Island can also discover a remote, pristine beach along the state’s last undeveloped coastlines. And for those lucky to call this area home, Punaluÿu represents a tie to a rapidly declining way of life, but also a rallying cry for cultural, environmental, and historical preservation. There is no doubt that Punaluÿu is truly a special place. Getting its name from an offshore fresh water spring, Punaluÿu, or the “diving spring,” is located in one of the least populated districts in the state, along a weathered coastline not yet overrun by commercial development. This allows visitors and residents to imagine what life might have been like, and what the scene may have looked like, when the ancient Polynesians first arrived in Hawaiÿi. Though there is a small resort community complete with a golf course, as well as a ruined seaside restaurant hidden behind overgrown coconut palms, few other developments are found in this

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remote area of the Big Island. There have been attempts, but each time, Mother Nature, through a series of earthquakes and tsunamis, has sent a clear message that she won’t give up this pristine coastline easily. And it’s the pure coastline that draws you in. As you make your way to the beach covered by sand the color of midnight, framed by lazy coconut palms and pounded by the deep blue sea, you can’t help but admire the immense beauty. If you turn the other way, the Nïnole Tide Pools dot the landscape, along with a couple of resting honu, or Hawaiian green sea turtles. Because of its unspoiled waters, specific kinds of algae and seaweed grow here, drawing both the endangered honu and hawksbill sea turtles to its shores. Visitors are asked to admire these beautiful sea creatures from a distance, and not to disturb them. Their constant presence has made it easy for scientists to come and study the behaviors and habits of these animals, allowing for rich data that can be used to help turtles around the state. Keeping this area as pristine as it is will keep the turtles coming back, year after year. Historically, this area is rich in history. Punaluÿu was the royal residence of Keöua, the father of Kamehameha the Great. Four heiau, or temples, are located within close proximity to the beach, each heiau serving a different purpose. One heiau, Kaÿieÿie, is thought to have once been a fishing shrine due to its location 103

overlooking the sea. Another heiau is thought to have been massive, but was partly destroyed when the sugar industry was attempting to build a seaside facility to transport sugar to boats. Two others are in serious disrepair, with one being found in the middle of the golf course. Petroglyphs have also been found in this area, and can be seen near the county park pavilions—look closely because they are often overlooked. There is a big push to save Punaluÿu from future development, as its sacred buildings have already been ignored for much too long. Discussion of adding parts of the shoreline to the Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park or creating a special designated protected seashore are ideas that could help protect this special, beautiful area. Along with the heiau, the ÿÖpükahaÿia Memorial Chapel is part of the Wahi Pana O Punaluÿu, or the sacred sites of this area. This chapel is named after Henry ÿÖpükahaÿia, a native Hawaiian man who was thought to be born near the Nïnole Tide Pools, who eventually boarded a ship in Kealakekua, sailed to Connecticut, and helped translate the bible into the Hawaiian language. It is written that Henry translated the Book of Genesis from Hebrew to Hawaiian. He also wrote a memoir, and both of these materials inspired missionaries to set off towards Hawaiÿi. The Islands would never be the same afterwards. The best way to see the area of Punaluÿu is to spend a day here. Because of its remote location, it will generally take a few hours to get here from many points on the island. Stopping in the town of Näÿälehu, the Punaluÿu Bake Shop is a great place to stock up on sweet treats for your day of exploration. Opened in 1991, this bakery has been supplying the islands with Hawaiian sweetbread for decades. Besides the traditional sweetbread, they also have many other flavors available, as well as a pastry case full of malasadas, or Portuguese donuts, turnovers, and cookies, all in a variety of delicious flavors. Visiting this area is unlike any other experience in the state. For those who are seeking out the tranquility and beauty of an untouched shoreline, Punaluÿu and its surroundings are unrivaled. Coupled with historical significance and dramatic scenery, a day in Punaluÿu will be like no other day in the islands. Punaluÿu is located along Highway 11, about 30 miles south of the Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park entrance, or about 70 miles southeast of Kailua-Kona. The Punaluÿu Bake Shop is located along Highway 11 in Näÿälehu, a few minutes south of Punaluÿu Beach. To learn more about how the community is working to save this beautiful coastline from further development, visit savepunaluu.org. 104

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HIT THE BEACH

KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf. Get there early since public parking passes are limited. Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available. Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous. Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock). Camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau. 105

WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park. Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling. Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving. Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches. The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools. Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended. Picnic tables, grills, restrooms and showers are 106

available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA

swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

PHOTO COURTESY: ERIC FRANKE

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo. myhawaiitraveler.com

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available. Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill. 107

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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333. KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island. Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm. PORTUGUESE STONE OVEN BREAD BREAKING (Thursdays) - Take part in this historical recreation—making, and then baking traditional sweet bread in a wood-fired oven called a forno, the type used by Portuguese immigrants who came to Hawai‘i in the 1800s. This is a unique, tasty, and hands-on experience! Free. The baking event is from 10am-1pm; around 110

12:30pm to 1pm is when the first batch of beautiful brown bread comes out of the oven. The loaves ($8) are first come, first served, and sold straight out of the oven until sold out. Kona Historical Society (808) 323-3222.

cards, photography, cactus & succulent plants, dragon fruit plants, protea plants & flowers, air plants, herbs, tropical plants, fruit trees and more. Visit KonaOrchidSociety.org for more information.

TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change. 5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date.

40TH ANNUAL VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK (May 12) - The public is invited to participate in the annual Visitor Industry Charity Walk and preserve this tradition of sharing and kökua. Anyone can participate! In fact, invite your family, friends, neighbors, clients, classmates, club members, and anyone who’s interested to join us for a morning of food, fun, fabulous local entertainment, and a little exercise to help Hawaiÿi’s local charities. And with all the great food and fun, the Charity Walk is the only one in Hawaiÿi where you can actually gain weight by raising money for a great cause. Location is Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa. Runners start at 6:45am. Walkers start at 7am. For more info, call Bambi at (808) 886-8128 or visit HawaiiLodging.org/charity-walk.html.

KOKUA KAILUA (May 20, June 10, July 15, Aug. 19) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local! Call (808) 936-9202 or visit historickailuavillage.com. MAY ORCHID SHOW, PLANT & CRAFT SALE (May 11-12)- Annual Mothers Day Show & Sale from the Kona Orchid Society.at the event pavilion in the ‘Old Airport Park’ in Kailua- Free to the public. See exotic orchid species and exciting new hybrids. Talk with vendors from all over the island. Many handmade craft items and fine arts from our island. Pottery, ceramics, real flower jewelry, nurturing gemstones and jewelry, anthurium flowers and plants, fine art, greeting

ROBERT CAZIMERO (May 12) Robert Cazimero is considered to be one of the most respected kumu hula of Hawaiian dance and will be at the Kahilu Theatre Saturday, May 12 at 7:00 pm. His elegant voice is so distinctive that he is instantly recognized, compelling people to listen. Robert’s passion and talent have played a huge role in taking Hawaiian music and dance to stages, from Japan and Moscow to Carnegie Hall and the Hollywood Bowl, with hula being an integral part of his shows. Join us in celebrating Robert’s 33-year unbroken tradition of performing on the Kahilu Stage in beautiful Kamuela. Call (808) 885-6868 or visit KahiluTheatre.org. 3RD ANNUAL FARM FESTIVAL AT HĀMĀKUA HARVEST (May 20) – The festival in Honokaÿa features an all-day line-up of entertainment, educational presentations, kid’s activities, a silent auction and a 45-vendor farmers market, featuring locally grown products, delicious food and arts and crafts. Hämäkua Harvest welcomes the community and visitors to support local farmers, BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

hang out and enjoy some of the area’s favorite musicians, taste a variety of the Hämäkua region’s artisanal food, learn something from local experts at our educational programs and enjoy the beauty of Hämäkua. The Festival is the official kick-off of Honokaÿa Western Week that brings the district’s vibrant ranching community together with the area’s blossoming farming community. Visit www.hamakuaharvest.org for more info. JUNE 7TH ANNUAL BIG ISLAND JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL (May 31-June 3)- Mauna Kea Beach Hotel presents an amazing weekend of jazz. The series of concerts include performances by awardwinning artists and legends including multiple Grammy and Blues Winners, Jazz & Blues Legends. Events all weekend including a Sunday Jazz Brunch at the beautiful Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For more information and tickets, visit BigIslandJazzAndBluesFestival.com. IRONMAN 70.3 HAWAI‘I (June 2) - Nicknamed Honu, in honor of the Hawaiian green sea turtle, the Ironman 70.3 Hawaiÿi offers competitors a beautiful venue. It starts with an open-ocean swim and follows with a challenging course along the northern half of the Ironman World Championship bike course. The hot and sunny run starts and finishes at the beautiful Fairmont Orchid on the Kohala Coast and winds its way through the Mauna Lani Resort over modern golf greens, past ancient petroglyph fields and fishponds, and the historic Ala Loa Foot trail. The post-race lawn party at The Fairmont Orchid is worth making it to the finish line. The host hotel goes all out to feed the hungry athletes, but the real dessert is the myhawaiitraveler.com

championship slot allocations at the end of the day. After the race, the island offers competitors a vacation playground with a variety of natural wonders to explore, including rain forests, waterfalls, active volcanoes, black sand beaches, and abundant marine life. Email hawaii70.3@ ironman.com for more information. KING KAMEHAMEHA DAY CELEBRATION PARADE, KAILUAKONA (June 9) - The annual King Kamehameha Day Celebration Parade in Historic Kailua Village honors the great aliÿi, King Kamehameha I, who established the first capital of the united Hawaiian Kingdom in Kailua-Kona at Kamakahonu. This year’s parade theme is “Ho‘ohiwahiwa No Kamehameha,” translated, “Honoring Kamehameha.” Beginning near Royal Kona Resort at 9am, the floral parade travels down Ali‘i Drive past Kamakahonu by the pier, then up Palani Road to Kuakini Highway. Parade participants include regal päÿü riders on horseback, hula hälau, equestrian units, marching bands, horse-drawn carriages and more. After the parade, enjoy a hoÿolauleÿa (music and art festival) at Hulihe‘e Palace, including a free concert featuring Hawaiian recording artists. Then take time to visit the many shops, galleries and historic landmarks of Historic Kailua Village. KonaParade.org. JULY TURTLE INDEPENDENCE DAY (July 4) - Held purposefully every year on July 4th, this unique event educates people about endangered Hawaiian green sea turtles. Watch as the young honu (turtles), which have grown up in the ponds at the Mauna Lani Resort, are given their freedom as they are released back

into the ocean. Call the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows at (808) 885-6622 to learn more. GREAT WAIKOLOA RUBBER DUCKIE RACE & 4TH OF JULY EXTRAVAGANZA (July 4) - An all-day, fun-filled family event features a wild and wacky rubber duckie race at Kings’ Lake at the Kings’ Shops Waikoloa with food booths, live entertainment and lots of exciting activities culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. Beach chairs and mats welcome. No coolers please. This is an alcohol and drug free event benefiting United Cerebral Palsy Association of Hawaiÿi. Visit WaikoloaBeachResort.com. AUGUST 59TH HAWAIIAN INTERNATIONAL BILLFISH TOURNAMENT (Aug. 4-12) - The Hawaiian International Billfish Tournament (HIBT), founded in 1959, is the second oldest big game sport fishing event in the world. HIBT is a 5-day tournament built on prestige, trophies and strict International Game Fish Association rules for big game fish world records and does not include cash prizes. Along with five full days of sport fishing, HIBT offers daily activities for family members traveling including hiking, snorkeling and sightseeing. Other tournament events include the new Opening Ceremony, the official recognition of teams from around the world; daily weigh-ins at Kailua Pier attracting hundreds of spectators. Call (808) 836-3422 or visit hibtfishing.com for more info. All events are subject to change. Go to myhawaiitraveler.com for more special events. 111

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1ST ANNUAL HAWAII KUAULI PACIFIC & ASIA CULTURAL FESTIVAL

(May 18-20) - A celebration of Hawaiÿi Island and its beauty as a cultural melting pot. This 3-day event will be packed with food, fashion, cultural expressions, a keiki hula competition and cultural workshops. The event begins Friday with protocol from the various cultures represented. Saturday is filled with a wearable arts fashion show, arts & crafts demonstrations and the first annual Hawaii Kuauli keiki hula competition. Sunday is a wonderful day of cultural workshops and education. The festival is a culturally based experience for both local residents and visitors. It is organized as a combined multi-generational effort including members of the community from all spheres of influence - providing them with a platform to showcase the gifts and talents of those cultures present in Hawaiÿi. Presentations of cultural dance expression, culturally based education programs, food, music, fashion, art and traditional arts & crafts workshops. Hosted at Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Visit hikuauli.com for more info or call (808) 331-8265.

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myhawaiitraveler.com SUMMER 2018

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK EPIC ADVENTURES THE BEST BEACHES WHAT WE LOVE NOW $6.99

BENEATH

THE SURFACE

THE IDYLLIC WHITE SAND BEACHES OF KEKAHA KAI

SWIM WITH THE FISHES EXPLORE THE ISLAND'S TOP SNORKEL SPOTS