Big Island Traveler - Spring 2018

BIG ISLAND myhawaiitraveler.com

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

T R AV E L E R

myhawaiitraveler.com

CHASING WATERFALLS YOUR GUIDE TO THE ISLAND'S BEST GUSHERS

MORE THAN A DANCE THE ART OF STORYTELLING THROUGH HULA

SIGHTING GIANTS THE WHALES OF HAWAI‘I SPRING 2018

$6.99

LOCAL VIBE ISLAND STYLE FOOD + DRINK EPIC ADVENTURES THE BEST BEACHES WHAT WE LOVE NOW HAWAI‘IʼS ENDEMIC TREES

HAWAII

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Mauna Lani Bay Hotel Four Seasons Resort at Hualalai Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

OAHU Halekuliani Hotel The Kahala Hotel and Resort

MAUI Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea

L E G E N DA RY SHOPPING & DINING

T I F FA N Y & C O .

M I C H A E L KO R S

TO R I R I C H A R D M AC Y ’ S R E S O R T S TO R E

R OY ’ S WA I KO L O A B A R & G R I L L

TO M M Y B A H A M A

N OA N OA

T H E KOA TA B L E BY C H E F I P P Y

MAUI DIVERS JEWELRY

A - B AY ’ S I S L A N D G R I L L

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CONTENTS 2

24 WELCOME TO HAWAI‘I Big Views, Big Island

64 NATIVE ROOTS If these trees could talk...

42 KONA COAST From Kailua to Ka‘ū

76 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending culinary experiences

56 KOHALA COAST The Sunny South and Historic North

80 THE HOT SPOT The Fish & The Hog

100 EAST SIDE From Lush Tropics to Fiery Kīlauea Volcano

82 CULINARY Q&A Executive Sous Chef Rio Miceli

8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n that Hawai‘i style

84 PUT A LITTLE SPRING IN YOUR SIP This is the season to discover delicious new favorite wines

20 WHY DON'T YOU...

Try these Big Island experiences 24 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Big Island 34 CHASING WATERFALLS Your guide to the island's best gushers 44 SIGHTING GIANTS Discover the many whales in Hawai‘i

86 THE HEAVENLY BEAN There is no such thing as plain vanilla on the Big Island 94 SACRED JOURNEY High in the alpine atop Mauna Kea, a small body of water embodies divine power and great reverence 100 DOWN BY THE BAY Experience an epic day in Hilo town

48 MORE THAN A DANCE The art of storytelling through hula

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

OVER THE MOON, LEFT AT CLOUD NINE, JUST PAST SEVENTH HEAVEN, FIRST RIGHT IS...

KŪKI‘O

KŪKI‘O GOLF AND BEACH CLUB The Big Island of Hawai‘i’s elite private residential community. kukio.com | 808.325.4040

CONTENTS

GOLF | 54

BIG ISLAND T R AV E L E R

THE LIFE & STYLE OF HAWAI‘I

PUBLISHER Kevin Geiger

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mun Sok Geiger

CONTRIBUTORS

DINING | 68

COPY EDITOR Joseph Kwak

COVER IMAGE Kirk Lee Aeder

ADVENTURE | 90

myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743 info@traveler-media.com Copyright©2018 Traveler Media Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

BEACHES | 104 4

EVENTS | 110

MADE IN THE USA BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (COVER) ; (TOP LT) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI; (TOP RT) TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY; (MID LEFT) COPPER BAR AT MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

Kirk Lee Aeder Brooke Rehmann Krystal Kakimoto Ekua Impraim Peter A. Thoene Coco Zickos

SHOP | 58

Oceanfront Dining

Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai Reservations 808 325 8000

fourseasons.com/hualalai

ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

Waterfall, nothing can harm me at all. My worries seem so very small with my waterfall. I can see my rainbow calling me through the misty breeze of my waterfall…Waterfall, don’t ever change your ways. Fall with me for a million days. Oh, my waterfall. – Jimi Hendrix, “May This Be Love”

W

aterfalls, whales, and winters in Hawaiÿi are all equally wonderful. Like most people, I have an affinity for waterfalls. What is it about cascading water that we love so much? The scientific reason is that any moving or rushing water gives off negative ions, which makes us feel good, and that is why we are drawn to water. Plus, they are a treat for our senses— beautiful to look at, the sound is tranquil, and the setting is serene—a spiritual gift from nature.

Each waterfall is different and ever-changing, which completely adds to the allure and mystique of seeing one. The Big Island is blessed with an abundance of waterfalls in all shapes and sizes.

Some are easily accessible such as Rainbow Falls and ÿAkaka Falls, while some you can only see from the air like the impressive behemoths found in the verdant valleys of Kohala, and others are tucked away jewels that require a hike (Chasing Waterfalls, p. 34).

When you hear Israel “IZ” Kamakawiwoÿole sing “Hiÿilawe,” you can’t help but visualize the magnificent fall in Waipiÿo Valley.

Kümaka ka ÿikena iä Hiÿilawe. Ka papa lohi mai aÿo Maukele. Pakele mai au i ka nui manu, hau walaÿau nei puni Waipiÿo. A ÿole nö wau 6

e loaÿa mai, a he uhiwai au no ke kuahiwi. (All eyes are on Hiÿilawe.

In the sparkling lowlands of Maukele. I have not been trapped by the gossip, chattering everywhere in Waipiÿo. I am not caught, for I am the mist of the mountains.)

And, no matter how many times you see a secluded waterfall gush into an inviting pool, a pod of playful dolphins swim in a bay, or a massive humpback whale breach in the open water (Sighting Giants, p. 44), you know you are witnessing an exceptional scene.

The Big Island is a special place indeed. I still get awestruck by the diverse beauty and climate found here—especially, during the winter, when I look up and see snow on Mauna Kea from the warmth of a picturesque beach complemented by the inviting, turquoise waters of the Pacific. It’s enchanting.

Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor in Chief BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE A ROSE WITHOUT THORNS

Hawaiÿi is known for its fragrant flowers, and one of the standouts is the kupaloke (tuberose). The intoxicating tuberose aroma epitomizes the scent of the islands.

These little tubular-shaped flowers are picked early in the morning to heighten their scent, and then often strung into the most beautiful smelling lei. The lei with tuberose is very delicate, and requires refrigeration to ensure a longer life. It is often given as a welcome, to say congratulations, or to show love or friendship.

Other flowers, such as orchids, carnations, pïkake, and ti leaves can also be added to a tuberose lei for extra decoration.

Grown as a bulb, tuberose sends up a long stem that reaches three feet in height with buds appearing as the stalk grows. The natural color of the flower is white, but they can be tinted other colors, such as pink or yellow. It truly is one of the most beautiful fragrances in the world and is popular in candles and perfumes to emanate the tropics. Anywhere, anytime you get a whiff of this heavenly scent, you will instantly be transported back to your time in Hawaiÿi.

LOCAL LINGO

While spending some time on the Big Island, you’ll likely hear or see ÿäina several times and in used in different phrases. It’s interesting to note that when seeing this word written how dramatically different the meaning becomes without the addition of two little diacritical marks. For instance, the spelling of ÿäina means land. ÿÄina represents one of the most important facets of Hawaiian life—the significance of the land that supported their community throughout generations from the very beginning. Various phrases with this word include: aloha ÿäina, which means “love of the land,” or mälama ÿäina, which means to “care for the land.”

However, more often than not, you will see the word spelled as “aina,” which takes on a whole new meaning. Without the proper use of an ÿokina (an inverted apostrophe) and kahakö, a macron representing a stressed letter, the word now means sexual intercourse.

Here are some other words that are likely to heard and seen here: ono, which is a wahoo fish, while ÿono means delicious. Oli means chant, while ÿoli means joy. Länai means patio and lanai means stiff-backed.

Also interesting is that a kahakö is used to pluralize since the letter “s” does not exist in the Hawaiian language. For example, kahuna means priest as in singular, while kähuna is plural of priests. Who knew you were going to have an unsolicited Hawaiian language lesson…while on vacation?

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SPOT AN EAGLE

Hawaiÿi is home to some of the most magnificent creatures on Earth. The spotted eagle ray is known as hïhïmanu in Hawaiian, which means “magnificent” or “elegant.” And if you are lucky enough to spot one while snorkeling you will see that the ray truly lives up to its name. This graceful, beautiful ray glides through Hawaiÿi’s coastal areas, feeding on clams, urchins, and other sea creatures in the sand. The tops of their dark gray bodies are covered with white spots, while underneath, they are completely white. They have a long tail with sharp spines at the base, and their “wings,” or dorsal fins, can span up to six feet from end to end.

Spotted eagle rays are known to jump out of the water, occasionally doing cartwheels. When giving birth, the female spotted eagle ray jumps out of the water and expels the babies mid-air! Keep your eyes peeled for these elegant sea creatures on your snorkel or diving adventures. Your next boat adventure may include a truly unbelievable fish tale if you happen to catch one of these graceful creatures flying out of the water.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Front row seats available

FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALALAI Reservations (808) 325-8000 fourseasons.com/hualalai

LOCAL VIBE

WARRIOR POSE Throughout the Polynesian triangle, different cultures have different greetings to welcome you to their group or intimidate you from staying. One such custom is the haka, or a war dance. Haka is typically performed by those of the Mäori culture from Aotearoa/New Zealand, but Hawaiians also perform these dances as well. The rituals are fascinating to watch—the dancers performing a haka form a large group and use various movements of the body, including hand quivering, slapping their chest and thighs, bulging their eyes, and even sticking out their tongue. A vociferous chant always accompanies the body movements.

Used as a preparation for battle, the haka can be very intimidating. Just ask the opponents that play a football or rugby team who performs a haka before their game. However, the haka is not just for käne (men); women and children can perform it as well (Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson led a girls’ soccer team in one). And, the haka is not just a war dance, but can be used to welcome dignitaries or performed at celebrations. You can’t help but get chicken skin and lose yourself in watching the performance. You’ll have a new appreciation for Polynesian culture.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

LOCAL VIBE

SNOW BIRDS It’s hard to imagine that a bird seen here in Hawaiÿi spends its summers in the Arctic. Yet, for the Pacific golden plover, kölea in Hawaiian, gives new meaning to the term “snow birds.” Their annual migration sometimes covers a 2,000-mile (or more) nonstop flight between their winter vacation and their summer homes, and they can be found on islands throughout the Pacific foraging for food.

When they return home to the tundra to mate, the males often return to the same exact spot they found success the year before. There, a monogamous pair nests directly on the ground, using the deception of an injured wing to lure predators away from the nest. Adults are covered with spotted feathers of gold and black, with a striking white border. Plovers actually have two different kinds of plumage during the year— dark brownish feathers with gold spots on their backs during winter and a colorful breeding plumage in the summer with black feathers on the back with gold and white flecks and black belly.

Be sure to keep an eye out for these long-distance fliers as you cruise the beach—you might just catch a few of them enjoying a lunch of small crustaceans and mollusks along the shore. The males may be easier to spot since they start to sport a tuxedo-like appearance, especially during April, before they head back to look sharp for breeding season.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

GO BANANAS One local product that is popular at farmers markets across the state is bananas. Grown commercially as well as in many residents’ backyards, trying a local banana is a must for every Big Island visitor. Bananas are often thought to grow on trees; however, the banana plant is an herbaceous flowering plant—the body of the “tree” is not woody at all, but a soft, wet flesh. Commercially grown bananas that arrive in the U.S. have come from one particular clone of bananas, the Cavendish. While those are also found here in Hawaiÿi, be sure to be on the lookout for other varieties.

One local favorite is the apple banana, which is much smaller, and also has a tiny bit of tartness while still being sweet. Another unique favorite is the ice cream banana, also known as “blue java.” This variety has the texture and flavor of vanilla ice cream—it’s a real treat if you can find them.

Whatever you do, do not bring your banana onto a boat, especially a fishing boat. Hawaiians considered it to be bad luck to take them on a fishing canoe as it may lead to lack of catch or numerous problems. It was also bad luck to dream of bananas or meet a man carrying bananas. Because of the unfavorable connotations that bananas have, they are not mentioned in songs. Certain bananas were even taboo to women! Now, anyone can enjoy them especially since bananas are found in abundance and locally grown.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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WEST HAWAII TODAY READER’S POLL

Fair Wind II and Hula Kai at historic Kealakekua Bay & site of the Captain Cook Monument Information & Reservations 808.345.6213 | www.fair-wind.com

LOCAL VIBE

WHY DON'T YOU... look with your eyes, and not with your hands..

Don’t be like the two California guys that posted a photo of themselves holding an endangered honu (green sea turtle) and joked about not being fined $20,000 for catching one with their bare hands while they were here. However, they did end up getting fined $750 each, once the photo circulated and was eventually reported to the NOAA Office of Law Enforcement who tracked down the offenders. Please report any harassment or injury of protected marine species (honu, dolphins, whales, and monk seals) to NOAA at (800) 853-1974, or the Department of Land and Natural Resources statewide hotline (808) 643-3567.

count waterfalls—from the sky.

Not only will you see a myriad of lush waterfalls, you will also witness inaccessible, towering gushers that will leave you breathless. And, hopefully, you can capture a beautiful image to admire for always. Plus, get a view of the snowcovered summits (in Hawaiÿi!) along with fiery Kïlauea and the beautiful pasturelands of Kohala. Paradise Helicopters (866) 919-7414, Safari Helicopters (808) 246-0136, Sunshine Helicopters (808) 882-7362

Most likely you didn’t pack a parka to come to the tropics. It takes up way too much precious space in your luggage, or you weren’t thinking about extreme cold temperatures. But to experience sublime sunsets and vistas, plus bright constellations atop Mauna Kea, you are going to need more than a light sweater. Your options of purchasing winter gear here are limited to say the least. Plus, your car rental agreement might not allow you to drive the hazardous road. Best to go with experienced guides that can share not only their knowledge of the sacred mountain, but loan you desperately needed parkas and gloves so you can focus on the special experience and not your frozen limbs. Hawaii Forest & Trail (808) 331-3635 or Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (808) 322-2366.

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protect the ocean.

Of course, it’s important to protect yourself from the sun’s harmful rays, but just as important is to do your part in protecting sea life. Choose reef-safe sunscreen and apply 10-15 minutes before entering the water so it absorbs into your skin. Avoid sunscreens made with oxybenzone, butylparaben, octinoxate and 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor. Choose to wear sun protective clothing to decrease the amount of sunscreen needed.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT) VLAD & MARIA BUTSKY

stargaze in the snow.

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For Hapuna Beach Residences, obtain the Developer’s Public Report for a Condominium required by Hawaii law and read it before signing a binding sales contract.

No federal or state agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of these properties. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of any offer to buy where prohibited by law.

LOCAL VIBE

MY HAWAI‘I |

PAT FITZGERALD

OCCUPATION

|

PRESIDENT OF HUALĀLAI RESORT; PARTNER, DIAMONDHEAD LAND

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM

|

|

12 YEARS

HALF MOON BAY, CA FAVORITE BEACH

Mauna Kea Beach (Kaunaÿoa). It’s a great beach to read a book, hang with family and friends, swim, and walk on the shoreline.

FAVORITE ACTIVITY

Golf—it’s great fun to play with my buddy Rob and others on Saturday mornings, and my wife Marilyn on Sundays.

FAVORITE HIKE

The back of Waipiÿo Valley from Waimea with my lab Luna. Views of Mauna Kea are wonderful as you are hiking and once you hit the rim of Waipiÿo Valley, the view is outstanding with the addition of lots of waterfalls.

FAVORITE HANGOUT

Beach Tree restaurant at Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. Great, comfortable vibe with terrific bartenders, fabulous staff, scrumptious food, and incredible view.

FAVORITE HAWAIIAN PRODUCT

White Pineapples. I make a white pineapple infused vodka—amazing drink to have at sunset.

,,

FAVORITE PLACE TO CATCH THE SUNSET

my local faves

MAUNA KEA BEACH 24

Our home in Waimea. We are very lucky to have a great location that has unobstructed views of 30 miles of the Kohala coastline, so we have amazing sunset views every night—I can’t even tell you how many sunset pics I have on my iPhone.

FAVORITE DISCOVERY

Waimea Wood Fired Pizza because I love great pizza!

GOLF

BEACH TREE BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (LEFT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM: (MIDDLE) FOUR SEASONS RESORT HUALĀLAI GOLF COURSE

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Casual dining in a beachside atmosphere, with fresh fish grilled just so, imaginative kabobs and island-fresh salads.

Overlooking Kauna‘oa Bay, Manta pioneered Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring locally sourced ingredients delivered daily.

Our golf clubhouse restaurant offers casual island cuisine adjacent to the first tee. Grass-fed burgers, fish tacos and cold beer on tap.

The perfect place to experience a magnificent Kauna‘oa Bay sunset.

Mixologist-crafted cocktails, tap beers and wine complement shareable, tapas-inspired dishes.

HAPUNA BEACH RESORT

Centrally-located barista bar featuring Kona Coffee, refreshing libations, a light menu and fresh grab-n-go selections.

Start your day in a refreshing open-air setting with a sumptuous breakfast buffet or select from à la carte options including fresh juices and smoothies.

A poolside oasis providing a casual setting to enjoy lighter fare including salads, sandwiches and pupus, along with local brews on tap and signature tropical cocktails.

C A L L 8 0 8 - 8 8 2 - 5 8 1 0 F O R R E S E R VAT I O N S

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ALOHA

HAWAI‘I THE BIG ISLAND

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

ALOHA

E

nthusiasts from beachgoers, snorkelers, divers, hikers, golfers, big-game fishers, stargazers and nature lovers all can satisfy their cravings for the best of the best all on one Big Island. The Island of Hawai‘i is home to world-class golf, beaches, diving and stargazing sites. Two of the most common adjectives to describe the Island of Adventure are contrast and diversity. You can ski the snow-capped Mauna Kea, trek across a desolate desert, and walk through a verdant tropical rainforest all in one day. Kïlauea, one of the planet’s most active and most visited volcanoes, brings both destruction and creation. Four out of the five main climate zones exist here from near desert to sub-arctic tundra. The Big Island is home to the world’s largest volcano—Mauna Loa, the most active volcano—Kïlauea, and according to the Guinness Book of Records, the tallest mountain—Mauna Kea when measured from its base on the ocean floor to its highest peak.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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The information provided herein is not intended to be and does not constitute an offer or solicitation to sell and shall not be used in any state where prohibited by law or where registration requirements have not been met. Equal Housing Opportunity. Model photography is for illustrative purposes only. All square footages are approximate. All renderings, fl oor plans and maps are artists’ conceptions. Seller reserves the right to modify or change fl oor plans, included features, specifi cations, fi nishes, pricing, incentives and availability without prior notice. © 2018 Brookfi eld Residential Hawaii.

ALOHA

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The Island of Hawai‘i was born from five separate shield volcanoes, from oldest to youngest, Kohala (extinct), Mauna Kea (dormant), Hualälai (dormant), Mauna Loa (active, last erupted 1984) and Kïlauea (very active). Kïlauea means “spewing” or “much spreading” and it lives up to its name. The volcano has been erupting non-stop since January 3, 1983 and has added more than 543 acres of land. The youngest Hawaiian volcano is Lö‘ihi, an active submerged volcano that lies 3,200 feet below sea level, 18 miles southeast of Hawai‘i Island and has been erupting since 1996. With continued volcanic activity, it is believed that Lö‘ihi will eventually breach sea level and later attach at the surface onto Kïlauea.

Presently, this event is predicted to happen about 100,000 years in the future. The Big Island has 266 miles of breathtaking coastline with some of the most beautiful, unique beaches found anywhere. You will find yourself enjoying the best of water recreation on sands from white to black, and gold to green.

Hawai‘i Island has a landmass of approximately 4,028 square miles and represents 62 percent of the total land area of the Hawaiian Islands. Because it is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined, and to avoid confusion of the state’s name, Hawai‘i Island is often referred to as the Big Island. It is said that King Kamehameha the Great named the unified islands after his birthplace, the island of Hawai‘i. Not only is the land amazingly diverse, so are its residents. According to the 2000 U.S. Census Bureau, Hawai‘i County is the most ethnically diverse county in the United States with more than 28 percent of its residents claiming two or more races in their heritage.

You will find the evidence of various influences from Asia to Europe most apparent in the delicious island cuisine.

Blending favorite ingredients brought by multiple ethnic immigrants, modern BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Finesse /fəˈnes/

1. delicacy or subtlety in action, performance, skill, discrimination, or taste.

2. skill in handling a difficult or highly sensitive situation 3. Roy's Misoyaki Butterfish

Chef Roy Yamaguchi's Misoyaki Butterfish with Forbidden Black Rice, Sweet Ginger Wasabi Beurre Blanc & Lomi Tomato

R OY 'S AT T H E K I N G'S S H O P S, WA I KO LO A | R E S E RVAT I O N S C A L L ( 8 0 8 ) 8 8 6 - 4 3 2 1 | R OYS H AWA I I.C O M

The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles.

Hawaiian cuisine is truly a fusion of many favorites from Polynesia, Japan, Korea, Portugal, China, Philippines and America. Try some local favorites such as plate lunch, loco moco, ‘ahi poke, galbi and, of course, kälua pig.

Hawai‘i Island is also home for diversified agriculture worth over $300 million annually, including a beef industry that generates revenues of nearly $20 million, producing over five million pounds of beef annually on approximately 650,000 acres of grass. It’s probably difficult for some people to fathom that a magnificent tropical paradise is home for paniolo (cowboys), ranches and rodeos. Parker Ranch is one of the largest and oldest privately owned ranches in the United States and owns about 175,000 acres on the Big Island. Other agriculture includes macadamia nuts, papaya, avocados, tropical and temperate vegetables, Kona coffee, and flowers. Because of Hawai‘i Island’s reputation of growing copious beautiful orchids, it has earned the nickname “the Orchid Isle.”

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Science and technology have also found a place on the Big Island.

There are 13 telescopes including four of the biggest and most advanced on top of Mauna Kea, the world’s premier location for observing the sky with exceptionally clear images and clear nights for stargazing. The Natural Energy Lab of Hawai‘i (NELHA) operates an innovative ocean science and technology park where they are exploring the deep sea for discovery of natural organisms that can be used as drugs and cures for the improvement of human health.

NELHA has already completed numerous groundbreaking projects creating major commercial development such as turning desalinated deep seawater into ultra-pure bottled drinking water.

Along with the beauty of the land, rich traditions, history and culture are seen throughout the island. The world famous spirit of Aloha is the central beauty that engulfs the island welcoming visitors with warm smiles. So after you explore the very diverse, very awe-inspiring Big Island, take home and share the spirit of Aloha.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Tranquil and soul-soothing waterfalls dominate the Big Island’s north and northeastern regions. These areas generally receive abundant amounts of rain, which causes water to consistently cascade from mountaintops year-round. These waterfalls range in sizes and amplitudes, some are even among the tallest in the state, as well as the world. And not only are they visually dreamy to behold, the lush flora surrounding them adds to their spectacular beauty.

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The following waterfalls are arranged by location and vary from easily accessible to only visible by helicopter.

HILO

This charming old-school island town, seemingly frozen in time, has many waterfalls that are not only easy to find, but require just a short walk to view. Hawaii Forest and Trail, however, offers tours in Hilo for those who’d like an extra adventure, including swimming under a private waterfall. Their tours take guests to view several waterfalls in the area, while at the same time, allowing them to safely enjoy swimming, kayaking or paddling.

Wailuku River, one of the longest in the state at 28 miles that flows between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa lava flows, is where the following three Hilo falls originate. Wailuku River State Park also happens to receive one of the greatest amounts of rain each year on the island, which is why it provides several glorious cascades.

Waiänuenue Falls Famously known as Rainbow Falls, this waterfall stretches about 80-feet long and is probably the most easily accessible on the island—just a short walk from the parking lot and only a few minutes from downtown Hilo. Änuenue, means rainbow, and wai, means water, and the falls is named so because a multi-colored prism can be seen in the mist of the falling water. The best time to see this phenomenon is first thing in the morning on a sunny day.

The water spills over an ancient lava rock cave that is said to be the home of the Hawaiian moon goddess, Hina. Depending on the amount of rain, the waterfall sometimes descends at a trickle or it could be gushing over the edge with many ribbons after a storm.

Peÿepeÿe Falls What sets this approximate 60-foot falls apart from others are its “Boiling Pots.” Originating from the same river, and just a few-minute drive upstream from Rainbow Falls, you can get a good look at these “pots” of water from an easily accessible viewing area. The river rushes into pools, causing bubbles to churn and the vigorous movement makes it look as if the holes are pots of boiling water.

Legend has it that Hina’s son, Maui, saved his mother from Moÿo Kuna here. The lizard god was trying to drown her, so Maui followed the dragon to Boiling Pots where it hid within the pools. Maui asked Pele, the Hawaiian fire goddess, for help and she gave him hot stones to throw in the river causing Kuna to evacuate from his safety. The water dragon’s body is actually said to have washed up at the bottom of Rainbow Falls where a large black rock resides.

Waiÿale Falls Upstream from Peÿepeÿe Falls about another mile is this charming two-tiered waterfall. The upper portion pours into a lower tier, which is manmade, but still makes for beautiful photos. And, what’s more, it’s easy to get a view, as the waterfall sits right along the side of the road.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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KOHALA MOUNTAINS

Located on the northern end of the island are dramatic, sheer emerald cliffs that plunge into the ocean and form deep gulches. They are decorated with some of the most profound waterfalls in the state, some of which are more than 1,000-feet tall. That said, these largely inaccessible waterfalls require a trip by helicopter. Companies like Safari Helicopters, Sunshine Helicopters, and Paradise Helicopters offer the best deals and opportunities to see these amazing natural wonders. While some trips combine narrated aerial tours of Kïlauea Volcano and Hilo waterfalls, others are specific to this northern locale and have the ability to dart in and out of the area’s large verdant valleys.

Hiÿilawe Falls Waipiÿo Valley or the “Valley of the Kings,” where King Kamehameha grew up, contains at least three prominent waterfalls. Kaluahine and Waiulili are a sight for sore eyes, but Hiÿilawe Falls is by far the most widely photographed and wellknown, located at the back of this grand gulch. The waterfall actually has a twin, named Hakalaoa and they both flow from the Läläkea Stream at the top of the mountains. In recent decades, this natural stream was diverted for irrigation purposes

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and caused the twin falls to severely dry. In 2004, however, the barrier was removed. Still, the water isn’t always flowing and whether or not it is, depends largely upon rainfall.

The legend surrounding this massive waterfall begins with the tale of two lovers, Hiÿilawe and Kakalaoa, who stumbled upon a native ÿelepaio bird, which was considered a bad omen. The two were so afraid of what might happen to them, so they vowed not to ever be separated. Hi‘ilawe turned herself into the cascading waterfall you see today, while Kakalaoa turned into a large boulder at the bottom of the falls.

Do not consider making a hiking trek to this approximate 1,400-foot tall waterfall. The journey cuts through private property and it’s upsetting to the Hawaiian residents who live here when hikers attempt to cross their land.

Waihïlau Falls Get ready to see one of the tallest waterfalls in the world at Waimanu Valley, located next to Waipiÿo, at around 2,600 feet in this vast, mysterious valley. Again, this waterfall is only accessible by helicopter. Other falls you’ll have the pleasure of viewing in this valley are Lahomene and Waiÿilikahi.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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HĀMĀKUA COAST

This coastline stretches from north of Hilo to Honokaÿa.

Besides Hilo, it’s where the most easily accessible waterfalls are located. ÿAkaka Falls Located within ÿAkaka Falls State Park, this is one of the most highly recommended waterfalls to visit on Hawaiÿi Island. The pathway to reach this more than 400-foot tall falls is about 0.4 miles long and takes you through an enchanting rainforest, as well as to a smaller 100-foot tall waterfall, Kahuna.

Several legends of varying details surround ÿAkaka Falls.

The premise, however, is that a Hawaiian chief named ÿAkaka lived in the area and was said to be having an affair. When his wife discovered this, he somehow ended up falling to his death, creating ÿAkaka Falls.

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Umauma Falls This multi-tiered waterfall is located on private land owned

by Umauma Experience, an adventure company. The good news is that you can still see these cascading waters by paying a nominal fee to the business, which allows you to enter the property on a self-guided tour.

Onomea Falls This moderate waterfall, which is the smallest of the lot, is located inside the lovely Hawaiÿi Tropical Botanical Garden near Hilo. Though it’s not nearly as large or enchanting as the others, the experience getting here along the Old Mämalahoa Highway is worth the journey alone. The garden is located within a 40-acre valley and contains a host of plants—more than 2,000 species. Its serene nature trails also take you to the coastline where you can enjoy ocean vistas and learn about the legends of Onomea Bay, which was once a fishing village for native Hawaiians.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

ITS NOT JUST A TOUR, ITS AN ADVENTURE IN PARADISE.

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DESTINATIONS

Sunny Kailua-Kona is a busy seaside village consisting of many historic sites tucked among the open-air shops and oceanfront restaurants along the banyan-shaded Ali‘i Drive. Kailua was once established as the capital of the newly unified Kingdom of Hawai‘i by King Kamehameha I. Later the capital was moved to Lahaina then to Honolulu. Kona is home to the world-renowned Ironman Triathlon and big game fishing. Next to the active Kailua Pier with cruise ships, deep-sea fishing charters, sunset cruises and glass bottom tours, King Kamehameha I maintained his royal residence at Kamakahonu until his death in 1819. Ahu‘ena Heiau is a thatched shrine guarded by sacred wooden images restored by King Kamehameha the Great in 1812 to honor the god Lono.

Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II, dined with the women breaking one of the most rigorous kapu.

This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity.

Hawai‘i’s oldest Christian church was originally a thatch hut built in 1820 when the missionaries arrived aboard the Thaddeus traveling over 18,000 miles from Boston. Moku‘aikana Church was rebuilt in 1837 from an abandoned heiau made of lava and crushed coral.

Across the street is Hulihe‘e Palace, which once served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian royalty. Today it houses a collection of beautiful furniture and rare collections. Traveling south on Ali‘i Drive, you will come upon some beautiful beaches to swim, snorkel and bask in the sunshine. Head up to Hölualoa, a quaint little town surrounded by lush tropical foliage, and visit the art galleries, antique stores and charming boutiques. Just south of Kailua lies Keauhou, the birthplace of King Kamehameha III and home to important historical sites.

Kuamo’s Battle Burial Grounds dates back to 1819 where an estimated 300 Hawaiians were killed and Ku‘emanu 42

Heiau is an ancient surfing temple next to St. Peter’s Catholic Church.

Kealakekua Bay, a marine reserve, offers outstanding snorkeling with a wide variety of colorful fish and spinner dolphins plaingy close to shore. Captain Cook’s Monument rises across the bay where he was killed in 1779. Pu‘uhonua O Hönaunau, Place of Refuge, with its heiau and wooden images of Native Hawaiian gods makes this sacred spot a must-see. Beautiful landscapes captivate you in south Kona with splendid coastlines that hug the highway and charming little towns giving you glimpses of what life was like in Old Hawai‘i. Cultivated on the slopes of Hualälai and Mauna Loa, the worldfamous Kona coffee with its deliciously rich flavor, thrives in their perfect climate.

If you are seeking seclusion or tranquility, there is plenty just south of the Kona Coast in Kä Lae, the southernmost point of the U.S. This is where the first Polynesians were thought to have landed around 400 A.D. Be inspired as Mark Twain was by the raw beauty of the Ka‘ü district with its breathtaking views of the coastline and catch an unforgettable sunset on one of the unique, beautiful black or green sand beaches. Mark Twain wrote about his journey through Ka‘ü as, “Portions of that little journey bloomed with beauty. Occasionally we entered small basins walled in with low cliffs, carpeted with greenest grass, and studded with shrubs and small trees whose foliage shone with an emerald brilliancy.

One species, called the mamona [mamani], with its bright color, its delicate locust leaf, so free from decay or blemish of any kind, and its graceful shape, chained the eye with a sort of fascination. The rich verdant hue of these fairy parks was relieved and varied by the splendid carmine tassels of the ‘ö‘hia tree. Nothing was lacking but the fairies themselves.”

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (RIGHT) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

KONA COAST

The perfect place at the perfect time.

Now is the time to create your own Big Island dream on the land of Hawaiian Ali’i. From the incredible topography and views, to the Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course, Hōkūli‘a is exactly what you have been looking for. Featuring 1+ acre lots and custom homes, Hōkūli‘a provides a sense of community centered around the amazing amenities of the members only Club at Hōkūli‘a.

Please contact Phil or Brian to schedule your Hōkūli'a experience.

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SIGHTING

GIANTS

Discover the many whales of Hawai‘i.

WORDS ANDREW WALSH

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

H

awaiÿi and humpback whales have always been deeply connected (and hopefully always will!), but the waters around these islands are home to a much wider variety of our mammalian relatives who are just as important and unique as the mighty, melodious humpbacks. Of course, it’s easy to see why humpbacks cause such a splash, both in and out of the water, as they are unavoidably the most easily seen and beloved of all the whales that visit these islands or call them home. In fact, each year over 10,000 humpback whales migrate to the warm safety of the island to give birth and mate.

Starting sometime around November and lasting until May, the Pacific humpback whales leave their summer feeding grounds in the cold nutrient-rich waters off Alaska. Their journey is one of the greatest migration routes of any creature to have lived on this small blue planet. With no modern technology and only their instinct to safeguard or spread new life, they cross a treacherous sea route of killer whales, net entanglements, pollution, and vessel strikes. Incredibly, through all of these hazards, the Pacific humpbacks, regardless of where they migrate to (Central America, Asia, or Hawaiÿi), all sing the same constantly evolving melodic language. Three thousand miles later, if all goes well for the Hawaiian humpbacks, they arrive in the beautiful tropical waters to frolic and play just like many travelers do.

What is even more amazing, humpbacks pack their own lunch. The clear, tropical waters around Hawaiÿi are, to them, food deserts. It’s easy to assume they are full of an incredible array of life, as the nearshore coral reefs support a multitude of

myhawaiitraveler.com

astounding creatures and food webs. And though this is true and a testament to the incredible abilities of corals to sustain whole ecosystems, the reefs are truly an oasis in what is otherwise an ocean desert. Weighing up to 80,000-lbs., humpback whales simply can’t get too close to the reefs as they could easily run aground. So, they bring with them all the food they need to survive stored in the blubber that insulates and supports their massive frames.

If they carefully plan and execute a sustained feeding ritual throughout the summer months in the feeding grounds of Alaska, a mother humpback will carry enough supplies to provide her newborn with over 100 gallons of milk a day, in addition to supporting her own energy needs. And I can only imagine how much energy it would take to fend off an unwanted, frisky humpback suitor. A humpback whale’s ability and aptitude to preserve, sustain, and coordinate its complex feeding and migration decisions, is nothing short of unbelievable and a strong indication of higher order thinking, planning, and intelligence.

But, there they go again stealing the spotlight. Hmm, they always do that with all that leaping, slapping and splashing around causing any lucky spectator to ooh and aah in complete astonishment! Which is why it’s important to remember that humpback whales and humans aren’t the only warm-blooded cousins we have living among us. Eighteen species of odontocetes (toothed whales) and seven species of mysticeti (baleen whales) have been documented in Hawaiian waters. But, what do all those terms mean? It might help to know that dolphins and whales are both members of the same family—Cetacean.

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threats of endangerment or extinction from their human family.

NOAA recently proposed in November of 2017 to establish critical habitat protection for these species under the Endangered Species Act (ESA) as too many of these whales are seriously injured by human activity annually. These 15-foot toothed whales (dolphins) actually bear little resemblance to killer whales. They both share similar skull features, particularly large rows of conical teeth, which some scientist thought was enough to lump them together. But like killer whales, they are very predatory and have been seen utilizing cooperative feeding behaviors. Like most whales and humans, they are highly sociable and are generally found in pods of 10-40 whales and can be found throughout all the main Hawaiian Islands.

Melon-headed whales look much like they sound. A large, swimming beast with a melon for a head. Not only are they unique, but they are also the less likely to be spotted of the “commonly spotted” whales in Hawaiÿi. Mainly because they feed in deeper waters, although a resident population is found along the Kohala Coast of the Big Island. Population estimates are a little better for these sea-going mammalian melons at around 3,000 individuals.

Although their presence in the deeper waters may explain some repeated mass-stranding events in recent years potentially linked to active sonar from military vessels. At 6-8 ft. long, they are among the smaller whales, but their unique head and fondness for living in pods from 100 to 1,000 members strong, often including other whale species, makes for an unforgettable encounter if one should be lucky enough to see them.

Even more reclusive are the pygmy killer whales. They are one BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP RT) KYDD POLLOCK

Baleen whales don’t have teeth, but rather large filamentous plates called baleen that they use to filter-feed great volumes of water that they force out through their enormous mouths. These include species like humpback and fin whales, and they are generally the much larger members of the Cetacean family. The odontocetes or “toothed whales” include all the dolphins and porpoises. So, really a dolphin is just a toothed whale with a cooler sounding name and smaller body frame.

The most common species of dolphins (toothed whales) found in Hawaiÿi are the spinner, bottlenose, and spotted.

But, let’s focus on what most of us think about when we think whale—the larger, more charismatic megafauna that are possible to see in Hawaiian waters, such as the false killer whales, melonheaded whales, pygmy killer whales, and short-finned pilot whales.

Out of all of these, the short-finned pilot whales, generally referred to as just “pilot whales” here in Hawaiÿi, are the most likely to be seen. Their large, odd-shaped, bulbous heads help to identify them, as well as their strongly curved, broad-based dorsal fins. These whales were made semi-famous a number of years ago through a viral video off the Big Island of a female swimmer being dragged fairly deep underwater in some apparent play behavior. She and the whale parted ways, both intact, but perhaps on less friendly terms, emphasizing that these whales should always be given space and respect.

False killer whales, although not common, are among the more likely of other whales seen. And by not common, it is estimated that only 150, or so, individual whales live in these waters. Which, like many of the whale species we mention in this article, face serious

of the least known and least encountered whales in the world. But through the efforts of one researcher, Dan McSweeney of the Wild Whale Research Foundation, we know more about the year-round Hawaiian pygmy killer whales than any other pods around the world.

Still, that doesn’t amount to much information, only making these whales that much more interesting and mysterious. Like so much of this blue planet, there are depths of knowledge surrounding us that we have yet to unravel, a sentiment embodied in the pygmy killer whales.

Of course, many people think of killer whales when they visualize other popular well-known whales. And they would be right to assume we also see them occasionally here in Hawaiÿi. The populations that visit these islands are considered “roving” as opposed to “resident” orcas, such as those found off the west coast mainland; and they are one of the least understood or identified groups of orcas throughout the Pacific. The transient roving populations of killer whales feed both on fish and other mammals, such as whales.

Their name originated from sailors who would watch them organize and systematically attack larger whales (often calves, old, or injured whales), and so they dubbed them “whale killers.” These coordinated hunters are one of the major threats for humpback mothers ferrying their young across the great Pacific migration they must undergo to reach Hawaiÿi each year, as well as for the mothers returning to Alaska with her new calf born in the tropics.

Like many of the whales around the Hawaiian Islands, you stand a much better chance of seeing certain whales from different islands.

Even from different coastlines of each island. For instance, Cuvier’s myhawaiitraveler.com

beaked whales, a curious smaller whale resembling a bottlenose dolphin, is not likely to be seen anywhere except the Big Island.

While dwarf sperm whales can generally only be seen from the Länaÿi and Kona coastlines.

However, most whales, regardless of where or if you can see them, share a sacred, critical role in the ecosystems around the islands.

Hence, their health is our health, and vice-versa. We share so many of the same behaviors, priorities, and dare I say “thoughts.” They nurse their young just as we do, sharing babysitting duties between mothers and even older males. They constantly communicate with one another, through a complex, organized sonic language. It sounds like squeaks, whistles, clicks, and squeals to us, but doesn’t any language we don’t understand sound just as strange and unintelligible.

Although, to some, they may appear to be just really big fish (an exception being the sometimes-seen whale shark, which is actually a really big fish and not a mammal), there is ample evidence to suggest that the naiÿa (dolphins) and koholä (whales) are second in intelligence and brain size only to humans. They exhibit recordable memory, self-reflection, mathematical aptitude, and outward selfconscious personalities. And above all, they plainly express the “emotions” of suffering the loss of a family member or the instinct to care for each other. As many of our mammalian sea-going neighbors are under serious threat, does it not seem to be the “human” thing to do to care just a little more for them? I hope you have the opportunity to see and be inspired by one of the many species of whales found in Hawaiÿi, as living among these mysterious and diverse whales is a grateful privilege and unique responsibility.

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MORE THAN A DANCE

The art of storytelling through hula.

WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

A PHOTO COURTESY: SUZI DERRYBERRY; (OPP.) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

s a child growing up on America’s mainland, the word “hula” evoked visions of plastic— plastic grass skirts, plastic floral necklaces, and of course, plastic hula hoops. Eventually my awareness of the dance grew, and the kitschy images of hula from my childhood were overturned as I came to understand the beauty and complexity of true hula dancing.

Hula is more than a dance—it is a way of telling stories. While the movements of hula are aesthetically beautiful, they also have significant meaning. Prior to Western contact, Hawaiians did not have a written language so all the history was passed orally through chants and hula dancing.

An alluring way to share stories, beliefs, and historical knowledge to pass along from generation to generation.

Because of the lack of recorded history, the beginnings of hula are shrouded in mystery.

Numerous legends about the creation of hula abound; and one of them suggests that it began when the Hawaiian goddess Hiÿiaka and her friend Höpoe observed the motions of the ocean and began mimicking the movements of the waves. In another legend, the volcano goddess Pele created hula as a celebration when she found a home on the Big Island after being chased across the Pacific Ocean by her sister, the sea goddess Nämaka. Various islands claim to be the birthplace of hula, but none of the stories about the origins of the dance have ever been confirmed.

In ancient Hawaiÿi, roles were often predetermined based on the status of your family. In these times, children generally became specialists in one skill. If a child were chosen to study hula, they would receive extensive training from a kumu hula (hula teacher). Hula dancers played an important role as storytellers in ancient Hawaiian society, and later on, as hula dancers helped bridge the gap between pre- and post-contact Hawaiÿi.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM; (MID) SUZI DERRYBERRY; (BOTTOM) HAWAII STATE ARCHIVES

As Western missionaries arrived to the Hawaiian Islands in the 1820s, they attempted to ban hula. They felt that both the attire and dance movements of hula were lascivious. After converting to Christianity, Queen Kaÿahumanu, a wife of King Kamehameha I, came to agree with the idea that hula was inappropriate. With her help, hula was forced underground.

Despite the ban on publicly performing hula, people continued to quietly practice the dance. It eventually reemerged from the shadows in the 1880s under the reign of King Kaläkaua, a patron of the arts who believed that hula was an integral part of Hawaiian identity.

Today there are two forms of hula: hula kahiko and hula ÿauana.

Hula kahiko is the traditional hula. The mele (songs) are the distinguishing factor of hula kahiko. In this type of hula, dancing is accompanied by the guttural sounds of oli (chants) combined with percussion instruments such as gourd drums and rhythm sticks.

In hula ÿauana, dancers perform to the tunes of contemporary Hawaiian music. In this style of hula, traditional moves are used, but the dances may tell more modern stories. The accompanying music has Western influences and may include slack-key guitar or ÿukulele along with smooth vocals.

At lüÿau throughout Hawaiÿi, you may find a combination of Hawaiian hula performances mixed with other dances of Polynesia.

Hula is often confused with ÿöteÿa, a dance from Tahiti that is characterized by rapid hip movements. While the two dances may have some similarities, in ÿöteÿa, stories are told through the movements of the hips, whereas in hula, the stories are conveyed more through arm and hand movements. Hula dancing is accompanied by chanting as well as percussion instruments, while ÿöteÿa is accompanied only by drums.

Another form of Polynesian dance that you may come across in Hawaiÿi is the haka, a war dance from the Mäori people of New Zealand. In this dance, participants make themselves look as fierce as possible by widening their eyes, sticking out their tongues, forcefully slapping their hands against their thighs and chests, and powerfully stomping their feet as they recite rhythmic chants. If you are a football fan, you may have seen the University of Hawaiÿi Warriors perform the highly energetic, mighty haka during their pre-game ritual.

While there may be overlapping characteristics of the dances of Polynesia, it is important to understand that each culture developed distinctive styles of dance, and these dances embody the individual histories of each place. In the past, dances from around Polynesia may have been sold as authentic hula at tourist-driven lüÿau in Hawaiÿi, but over the years, the productions have become better at acknowledging and identifying the variety of cultures and origin of dances that are presented at their shows, providing education as well as enjoyable entertainment.

Every year beginning on Easter Sunday, authentic hula thrives at the weeklong Merrie Monarch Festival in Hilo. When you hear the name of this festival, a jolly, fluttering orange and black butterfly may come to mind, but the festival actually gets its name from King Kaläkaua, the Hawaiian monarch who took a stand against the missionaries’ suppression of hula and played a role in saving the dance.

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culture that occurred in the 1970s.

Beyond the individual stories that hula may share, the survival of the dance as a whole tells the story of the resilience of Hawaiian culture.

Despite attempts to ban the dance and the later Disneyfication of it, authentic hula continues on as a powerful link between the present and the Native Hawaiian culture that was almost lost.

As you watch a skilled hula dancer, you sense that they are conjuring the strength of the land and history of Hawaiÿi. As you see the meaning that pulsates through each of their movements, King Kaläkaua’s words ring true, “Hula is the language of the heart, and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.”

Merrie Monarch runs from April 1-7, 2018 in Hilo at various venues.

Visit merriemonarch.com for more information about events and to purchase tickets.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LT/BOTTOM ALL) KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM (TOP RIGHT) SUZY DERRYBERRY

At the Merrie Monarch Festival, hula hälau (dance schools) compete to win at this most prestigious hula event. Female and male hälau come from around the Hawaiian Islands, and perform both hula ÿauana and hula kahiko. There is also a solo female competition in which the winner recieves the title of “Miss Aloha Hula.”

Achieving victory at this festival is a huge honor in the hula community, and ample time goes into learning and practicing the dances. Each hälau attend to every detail of their performances, from their costumes to the way the dancers enter and exit the dance floor.

Even hula schools across the mainland, as well as Japan hold classes and workshops to spread the art of hula, Hawaiian culture, and traditions.

The Merrie Monarch Festival began in 1963 and was turned into a competitive event in 1971. The added element of competition popularized the event around the Hawaiian Islands—and beyond.

It also played a role in bringing about the renaissance of Hawaiian

GOLF

ISLAND GOLF HAPUNA GOLF COURSE

This Arnold Palmer/Ed Seay-designed 18-hole championship course is nestled into the dramatic natural contours of the land from the shoreline to about 700 feet above sea level. This beautiful course features spectacular vistas of the Kohala Coast and the Pacific, with snow-capped Mauna Kea volcano as a backdrop. Hapuna’s challenging play and environmental sensitivity make it one of Hawai‘i’s most unique golf courses. Tee times: (808) 880-3000.

HUALĀLAI RESORT

The Hualälai Golf Course, the first Jack Nicklaus Signature Course on the Big Island is home of the PGA Champions Tour Mitsubishi Electric Championship every January. This carefully groomed course was designed with a sense of place. Special care was taken to preserve the historic King’s Trail located on the course, and other significant cultural sites at the resort. Residents and residential guests of Hualälai along with guests of the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai may enjoy this great facility, which includes a nine-acre driving range with 27,000 square foot short game practice area.

For information, please call (808) 325-8480.

MAUNA KEA GOLF COURSE

For over 40 years, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel has been the most celebrated resort in Hawaii. And Mauna Kea Golf Course, carved out of ancient lava flows by Robert

Trent Jones, Sr., is consistently ranked among the top 10 in the world. This course which emulates the legend of Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise, boasts the famed 3rd hole, where surging blue inlet waves thunder against a rocky black shoreline for an experience you’ll remember forever. Without changing the essential character of his father’s design, Rees Jones completed a tee-to-green renovation in the fall of 2008. (808) 882-5400.

MAUNA LANI RESORT NORTH COURSE

The North Course, becoming known as the tournament course, is a bit more difficult than the South Course, displays a much different face of Hawai‘i Golf. Built on a lava bed, it is characterized by rolling terrain punctuated by kiawe forests. Trees often come into play on this course. Number 17, a par-3 tucked into a natural lava amphitheater, is another one of the resort’s signature holes and a favorite “I was here” photo spot. Public.

18 holes. 68-1310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

MAUNA LANI RESORT SOUTH COURSE

The South Course snakes through the stark, rugged a‘a lava of the prehistoric Kaniku lava flow. Besides great golf, the challenging course offers the player a panorama of mountain and ocean views. The South Course is home to No. 15, one of the most photographed overthe-water golf holes in the world. Public. 18 holes. 681310 Mauna Lani Dr. (808) 885-6655.

WAIKOLOA RESORT BEACH COURSE

Weaving its way through rolling lava beds, down to the surf, the Waikoloa Beach Course is simply breathtaking. Designed by Rober Trent Jones Jr., this par-70, 6,566 yard course offers strategically placed water features and immaculate greens that are well guarded by the course’s 74 white sand bunkers. The crowning glory of the Beach Course is the intimidating, par 5, 502 yard 12th hole. Playing along the Pacific Ocean, the 12th hole not only offers challenging golf, it is a great place to watch humpback whales and catch splendid views of the other Hawaiian Islands. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

WAIKOLOA RESORT KINGS’ COURSE

Waikoloa Kings’ Course is one of the most challenging and picturesque golf courses in Hawai‘i. This Tom Weiskopf and Jay Morrish design was named one of the top 100 on Golfweek’s 2005 “America’s Best Resort Courses” list. The Kings’ Course uniquely provides golfers the best of two worlds; golf on an island paradise offering uninterrupted views of snow-capped Mauna Kea, on a course that more closely resembles a layout along the coast of Scotland. The 7,064 yard links-style golf course is highlighted by six lakes, 83 sand traps, and wide undulating fairways. Kings’ offers a solid, strategic layout that requires a golfer to think his way around the course. Public. 18 holes. 600 Waikoloa Beach Dr. (808)886-7888.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

M AUNA KEA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 3

It’s hard to believe that before 1964 golf didn’t exist on the Island of Hawai‘i.

With spectacular ocean views from every hole, both the Hapuna and Mauna Kea Golf Courses are sure to take your breath away. Try your hand at Mauna Kea, a course that helped define Hawai‘i as a golfer’s paradise or experience Hapuna’s unique Scottish links-style play. Both courses are highly awarded; the Mauna Kea has consistently ranked among Golf Digest’s top 100 courses. No matter which course you choose, you’re not likely to forget it.

Master the unforgettable today by booking your preferred tee time online.

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 7

HAPUNA GOLF COURSE, HOLE 12

M A U N A K E A G O L F. C O M

DESTINATIONS

KOHALA Historic North & Sunny South Out of the first section of the Big Island to rise from the sea lies spectacular white sand beaches, world-renowned golf, luxurious resorts and spas, and a chic offering of restaurants and shops.

Besides the plush effects, the weather also gives the Kohala District the nickname “the Gold Coast.” The sunniest destination on the island boasts both nationally-ranked beaches and some very secluded hidden gems. Add some swaying palm trees and incredible sunsets and you will call it paradise. The multiple hues of blue from the crystal clear water and green from the fairways are a dramatic contrast against the black lava fields that line the majestic coastline.

Beautiful views of Mauna Kea and Maui are included along with major provocative history that unified the islands of Hawai‘i.

The Pu‘ukoholä Heiau in Kawaihae is a significant historical site for the statehood of Hawai‘i. King Kamehameha built the heiau with strict guidelines to dedicate it to his family war god, to fulfill the prophecy of conquering all the islands. Kawaihae is an alluring harbor town with a handful of original shops and delectable restaurants favored by locals. It’s a great place to kick back and relax and watch the busy activities of the harbor. Fish with the locals or bask in the sunshine on a sandy beach next to the boat ramp.

Travel north to Häwï and Kapa‘au. Once they were busy commercial centers during the operation of the Kohala Sugar plantation and served as large camps for many countries. Regional cuisines were shared among the workers and diversity was beautifully woven into the community. Take the time to explore the charming boutiques of Häwï to find treasures to take home with you. Be sure to come hungry and dine at the sushi restaurant, which serves creative, delectable delights with unique island flair you won’t find anywhere else.

Visit the original King Kamehameha Statue commissioned

by King David Kaläkaua as it stands proudly at the legendary birthplace of the Great King in Kapa‘au. The statue was intended for Honolulu, but was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America. Another statue was commissioned and the replica was sent to Honolulu. The original was salvaged and returned to its rightful place in Kapa‘au in 1912. A few miles past Kapa‘au, Pololü Valley Lookout offers stunning, breathtaking views of coastline and valley. The hike down is easy and you will be rewarded with a beautiful black sand beach. However, going up is a different story.

Upcountry from Kawaihae, Waimea is a beautiful place still alive with its cowboy heritage that has breathtaking views of Kohala Mountain and Mauna Kea. Because it is set on higher elevation, a sweater may be needed to enjoy the surroundings. It is home to Parker Ranch, paniolo (cowboys) and rodeos and the quaint community has the feel of Colorado in springtime.

Although the landscape has changed dramatically from its spectacular beginnings with prime resorts and trendy shops along the Kohala Coast, the tradition of aloha remains the true splendor of the land.

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by kirkaederphoto.com BIG Images ISLAND TRAVELER

STYLE

FLAWLESS STYLE

B

ack in 1873, a jewelery store emerged in downtown Honolulu that had the distinct honor of creating crests for Hawaiian Royalty. In the 1940s, master goldsmith Hildgund Bucky purchased the company where she was currently perfecting her style of jewelry design, renowned for superior quality and craftsmanship.

The Hildgund philosophy has always been to create pieces that Hildgund Bucky, a woman of exceptional fashion and style, would be

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"HILDGUND IS FOREVER SEARCHING THE WORLD FOR PRECIOUS STONES THAT ARE TRANSFORMED INTO WONDROUS WORKS OF ART BY DESIGNERS FROM HAWAI‘I AND AROUND THE GLOBE."

proud to wear herself.

Today, step inside some of Hawai‘i's most prestigious resorts and you'll find Hildgund. Featuring the largest collection of internally flawless yellow diamonds in the state, you'll also find exotic colored certified gems along with Tahitian, South Sea and Freshwater Pearls.

This selection complements their extensive collection of limited edition jewelry and collectible accessories for men, including hand-crafted knives from brilliant designers such as William Henry.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PIECES OF PARADISE

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT/RIGHT) TIFFANY & CO.

Tiffany T square bracelets (left) in 18k rose gold with pave diamonds and in 18k gold with pave diamonds ($10,500.00 ea.)

Also shown, Tiffany Soleste® Round engagement ring (right) in platinum with diamonds ($90,500.00). Available at Tiffany & Co. in Kings' Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort.

Brilliant Torchere Earrings (above) in 18K white gold with approximately 21.97ct white diamonds by Sidney Garber valued at $124,000.00. One-of-a-kind Diamond Leaf Earrings (right) in 18K white gold with approximately 10.88ct fancy cut diamonds, 3.53ct marquise diamonds and .77ct brilliant cut diamonds

by Sidney Garber valued at $67,000.00. Visit Seaside Luxe at Hualālai Resort, home of Four Seasons Resort Hualālai. myhawaiitraveler.com

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STYLE

BECOME BRILLIANT Hildgund boasts a wide array of precious and semiprecious colored gems, fine jade and pearls, plus an exceptional selection of internally flawless colored diamonds in the state.

With one-of-a-kind pieces like the brilliant 3.03 Carat natural pink sapphire (left) and the 4.39 Carat fancy yellow diamond, internally flawless (below). Visit their Big Island locations at Four Seasons Resort HualÄ lai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, or Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (800) 6363306 or visit hildgund.com.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

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Carpe®ts l a t n e i Fine Orwaiian Rugs & Ha ific

e Pac ry in tiches o t n e v n i pr Largeesvteryday low h t i w

BIG ISLAND:

Moving – Please Call For location 808.329.6500

Hand Woven • Natural Fibers Silk • Wool & Hemp Custom Design & Sized Available

Showroom Open Everyday Free Shipping & Local Delivery (with min. purchase)

Fine Design

OAHU: Na Lama Kukui • 808.524.7769 (Formerly Gentry Pacific Design Center) Ward Avenue Store • 808.596.7333 MAUI: Kahului • 808.877.7200 myhawaiitraveler.com www.hawaiianrugs.com

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STYLE

ISLAND SHOPPING INDICH COLLECTION FINE ORIENTAL CARPETS & HAWAIIAN RUGS Indich Collection offers unique rug designs, flavored with the richness and casual elegance of the islands. Using the finest natural fibers and knowing that quality is too important to compromise, Indich Collection has created one of the most artful collections of handwoven rugs available anywhere. With the largest inventory in the Pacific and direct import Custom Design Program, you’ll find an unlimited choice of rug designs, sizes, colors and quality.. Visit our Kona Showroom…open everyday or by appointment!

Add Aloha to your home. Indich Collection Showrooms: Kona Industrial Park (808) 3296500, on Oahu (808) 524-7769, on Maui (808) 877-7200 or visit hawaiianrugs.com.

HILDGUND JEWELERS Founded in 1873, Hildgund is the ultimate in fine custom designs and handcrafted jewelry.

Every piece unique by its elegance, every piece one of a kind. A wide selection of precious and semi-precious colored stones plus many varieties of fine jade. The almost unlimited choice of their diamond collection is only of the highest quality. Customers worldwide have returned to a Hildgund location time and again, convinced

that they have found one of the finest jewelry boutiques anywhere. On the Big Island we are located in the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai (808) 325-0606, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (808) 885-6617 and Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (808) 882-1861. Visit hildgund. com for store locations on Maui and Oahu.

KINGS’ SHOPS The Big Island’s most exciting collection of shopping, dining and services can be found at Kings’ Shops. Visitors and residents enjoy onestop shopping that includes everything from high-end boutiques and one-of-a-kind jewelry to art galleries and activity centers to designer wear and spectacular gifts. Also home to an array of dining options, from award-winning Pacific Rim cuisine to on-the-go snacks. Located in the Waikoloa Beach Resort. Open daily from 9:30am to 9:30pm. For more information, call (808) 886-8811 or kingsshops.com.

AHUALOA FARMS Ahualoa Farms sits on the slopes of Mauna Kea Volcano and began harvesting and offering great tasting macadamia nuts and Hawaiian coffee in 2005, selling products locally at farmers markets and small stores. Today, Ahualoa Farms

A CUT ABOVE

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products have become highly praised and sought after worldwide. From delicious hand-picked and roasted macadamia nuts, to perfectly roasted coffees, they have something for everyone. Visit the store in Honoka‘a town or shop online at ahualoafarms.com.

PERSIMMON Before you go anywhere else to shop for the trendiest clothes or gifts made in Hawai‘i, you must go to Persimmon. Persimmon offers the latest in fashion with brands like Wildfox, Saint Grace, Sundry, Seven Jeans, Goddis, Ella Moss, Free People, Maui Mari Jewelry, Hard Tail, Michael Stars, Young Fabulous & Broke, and more. This charming boutique is a local favorite for its wide selection of great gifts including, candles, journals, paper products, jewelry, shoes and even must-have body care products.

Persimmon receives new merchandise every two weeks to keep you dressed in the latest styles.

Persimmon offers personalized service with a warm smile. Be envied. Shop Persimmon. You will be glad you did. Open daily. Located in the Queens’ MarketPlace in Waikoloa Resort. Call (808) 886-0303 or persimmonboutique.com.

For the man who has everything, William Henry designs creates a range of tools so perfectly conceived and executed that they transcend superlative function to become superlative art. The typical knife takes more than eight months from conception to completion. The “Papakolea” Series is a Hildgund exclusive limited edition knife featuring Peridot and Koa wood named after the green sand beach in Hawai‘i. Available locally at Hildgund Jewelers, located within the Four Seasons Resort Hualālai, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE In addition to shopping, enjoy Hawaiian cultural performances at the Coronation Pavilion, weekly cultural offerings with our kupuna, and movies under the stars every Friday. You’re meant to enjoy this tropical marketplace with pools of lily pads and open spaces between shops offering fashionable apparel, jewelry, art and fun gifts. Located at Waikoloa Beach Resort, open daily 9:30am – 9:30pm. Call (808) 886-8822 or visit QueensMarketPlace.net.

SEASIDE LUXE The true definition of resort luxury can be found directly below the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai’s hotel lobby, inside Seaside Luxe Boutique. Here you will find the world’s most premier fashion lines including the precious gems of Irene Neuwirth, a well known visual artist and one of the leading jewelry designers in the U.S. Her unique pieces are inspired by nature and her free spirit. Open daily 8:00am – 7:00pm. For more information, please call (808) 3254765.

THE SHOPS AT MAUNA LANI The Shops at Mauna Lani, located in the heart of the Kohala Coast, is THE place for that special combination of brand name quality and unique local craftsmanship.

From designer fashions to casual beachwear, and unique custom accessories, you can find something wonderful for everyone. There are eight great dining options, from quick and casual to fine dining. Don’t miss our complimentary cultural lessons at 5:30pm on Mondays and Thursdays, followed by our famous hula show as well as Hawaii Island’s only 4D Adventure Ride theater. Join us for a uniquely Hawaiian Experience, located in the Mauna Lani Resort, open daily from 10 AM to 9 PM. For more information, call (808) 885-9501 or visit our site at shopsatmaunalani.com.

TIFFANY'S ART AGENCY GALLERY Join us as we dive deep into Hawai‘i’s contemporary art scene, unveiling hidden local talent creating masterful works of art.

It’s a gallery full of joyful creative expression and connection with exclusive shows that change monthly, 2nd Saturday Collectors Receptions, and local style “talk story� events with the featured artists. Shop online at TiffanysArtAgency.com or in the gallery and discover your wonder and inspiration as you collect art and memories made in Hawai‘i.

Located in Hawi next to Sushi Rock. Call (808) 747-5882 for more information. myhawaiitraveler.com

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GOLF

NATIVE ROOTS If these trees could talk.

WORDS EKUA IMPRAIM

F

or many visitors to Hawaiÿi, the image that comes to mind when they think of trees on the islands is likely a row of palm trees along a beach, swaying in the gentle ocean breeze.

Perhaps the palms also have clusters of enticing coconuts that look ready to be plucked.

While palm trees are ubiquitous in Hawaiian imagery, it may come as a surprise that only one palm variety—the loulu palm—is native to Hawaiÿi. These fan palms once grew in abundance in the wild, but today you’ll more commonly find them cultivated in yards and gardens. And the beloved coconut palms? Polynesian voyagers brought the coconut over to Hawaiÿi as a canoe plant.

Beyond the palms that you’re likely to see as you stroll through a town or along a beach in Hawaiÿi, what trees might you encounter as you wander through the wilderness of the Big Island?

Three endemic trees of significance that you may find are sandalwood (ÿiliahi), koa, and ÿöhiÿa lehua. Through an exploration of these trees, you can learn about Hawaiÿi’s natural world as well as its storied past.

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) DAVID EICKHOFF; (BOTTOM) FOREST & KIM STARR

Cash Crop: Sandalwood (ÿIliahi) Fragrant sandalwood was once abundant in Hawaiÿi.

Early Hawaiians used it to treat minor medical issues and to scent kapa, fabric made with tree fibers. After European contact in the late 18th century, it became known to the Hawaiians that sandalwood was extremely valuable due to the demand for it in China. In fact, the plentiful sandalwood in Hawaiÿi helped put the isolated island chain on the map internationally. In China, the Hawaiian Islands became known as “Tahn Heung Sahn”—the Sandalwood Mountains.

Looking to cash in on the lucrative wood, Kamehameha I eventually established a monopoly over the trade of sandalwood. With the income from sandalwood, he was able to purchase ships and weapons and assure his ascent to full reign over the Hawaiian Islands.

By the time Kamehameha I died, his son Liholiho had become accustomed to the access to foreign luxuries that income from the sandalwood trade could buy.

During his reign, Liholiho loosened the restrictions on harvesting young sandalwood that were set by his father, and he and other royalty purchased expensive items from traders on credit. He left his successor, Kamehameha III, with a huge debt. Kamehameha III established a sandalwood tax on the commoners, which required them to either gather about 67 pounds of sandalwood each year or pay the tax in cash.

While the upper class profited, the commoners were forced to do the hard labor of harvesting the sandalwood. The overharvesting had a significant human and ecological impact on Hawaiÿi. As laborers carried the heavy loads of oily wood, they developed calluses on their backs. At times, sandalwood harvesting required the laborers to venture into colder climates at higher elevations with insufficient clothing. Because so much energy was devoted to harvesting sandalwood while agriculture was abandoned, famines occurred twice during Hawaiÿi’s sandalwood trade era. Due to the food shortages and the backbreaking work, many laborers died. By 1840, all that remained of Hawaiian sandalwood were young trees that had little value.

It was once thought that sandalwood was extinct in Hawaiÿi, but today, there are four varieties of sandalwood that exist on the Hawaiian Islands. Two can be found on the Big Island: Santalum ellipticum (coastal sandalwood) and Santalum paniculatum (mountain sandalwood), which are endemic to the Big Island. myhawaiitraveler.com

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BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

King of the Forest: Koa Capable of reaching heights of over 100 feet, koa is the biggest native tree species on the Hawaiian Islands. In the Hawaiian language, koa has multiple meanings including brave, fearless, and warrior. These are fitting words to be associated with a tree revered for its hardy wood.

Native Hawaiians used koa wood to build a variety of items that required sturdiness such as waÿa (outrigger canoes), paddles, and short surfboards. Also known for its attractive reddish-orange hue and unique grain patterns, today, koa is commonly used for making furniture, ÿukulele, and crafts.

In addition to koa’s value to humans, it is incredibly valuable to other endemic species that grow around it.

Sandalwood is a hemiparasitic plant, which means it gets some nutrients from its host but is not totally dependent on it. In Hawaiÿi, koa is often used as a host plant, which provides a good source of nutrients. Koa is also able to offer protection from frost for ÿöhiÿa lehua seedlings and sap for Kamehameha butterflies to feed on.

While koa is much more abundant than sandalwood, it has also endured loss from human impact. Koa forests were once cleared to make way for cattle grazing. Additionally, feral cattle often trample on and feed on small koa trees, destroying them. Hunting the animals and fencing in native tree forests are some of the efforts taken to mitigate the negative impacts caused by feral farm animals.

Legendary Love: ÿÖhiÿa Lehua After fiery red lava destroys everything in its path, cools and turns solid black, the landscape looks bleak and barren.

Eventually, the fiery red may reappear in the shape of a red brush-like flower called the lehua growing on the ÿöhiÿa tree. The trees, known as ÿöhiÿa lehua, are profound in many ways. They are often the first trees to grow after a lava flow.

A great place to see this in effect is in Hawaiÿi Volcanoes National Park. On the trail that takes you through the myhawaiitraveler.com

Kïlauea Iki Crater, small, unexpected ÿöhiÿa lehua bushes have sprung up from an otherwise desolate lava field.

These trees are also important in Hawaiian mythology, as there is a love story that describes the creation of the ÿöhiÿa lehua. According to the legend, ÿÖhiÿa and Lehua were a young and attractive couple. Ultimately, handsome ÿÖhiÿa caught the eye of the volcano goddess, Pele; but he denied her because of his love for the beautiful Lehua. This made Pele jealous and angry, and she turned ÿÖhiÿa into a tree.

Lehua was devastated. The other gods took pity on her, and turned her into a flower on the tree so that the two could remain together.

While lehua flowers may also be yellow and orange, it is the red lehua flower that is the official flower of the Big Island. In native forests, if you look closely at ÿöhiÿa lehua, you may spot ÿapapane, an endemic Hawaiian honeycreeper whose bright feathers match the red lehua flowers they help pollinate.

At airports on the Big Island, you may notice signs about Rapid ÿÖhiÿa Death (ROD), which is caused by a highly destructive fungus. There is currently no cure for it, but you can help prevent the spread of ROD by cleaning shoes and gear before and after forest hikes, avoiding transporting ÿöhiÿa from one location to another, and avoiding injuring ÿöhiÿa trees when you encounter them.

While Hawaiÿi’s native forests often feel a world away from the postcard images of palm tree-lined beaches and lushly landscaped resorts, the health of these forests directly impacts Hawaiÿi’s beaches. They help keep the soil healthy, thus protecting the coast from runoff during heavy storms.

Additionally, they provide a habitat for a number of rare species that inhabit these isolated islands. Beyond the immeasurable ecological value of Hawaiÿi’s endemic trees, they hold important stories of Hawaiÿi’s history and culture.

So, as you take a walk through the woods, remember to mälama ÿäina —take care of the land.

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70 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 76 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 80 HOT SPOT 78 THE HOT SPOT 82 CULINARY Q&A 84 SPRING WINES 86 HAWAIIAN VANILLA

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AWARD-WINNING, ISLAND INSPIRED.

KOHALA COAST BEACH TREE The ocean side Beach Tree is an experience…a place to enjoy casual dining and linger longer, where the focus is on fresh, local, seasonal and handmade cuisine. The cuisine is Cal-Ital...

Innovative Italian dishes infused with California flavors. Handcrafted cocktails incorporating fresh, local fruit as well as sangria and a selection of wines are also featured. At the center of the resort, it is a place to meet, connect with friends and family and celebrate lifestyle. With the combination of restaurant, lounge and bar, the experiences meet a variety of guests’ needs. The server and guest interaction promotes ‘ohana.

Children’s (ages 5 – 12) menu is available.

Serving lunch, dinner and drinks daily, with Hawaiian entertainment nightly from 6-8:30 p.m. Casual resort attire. Located at the Four Seasons Hualälai Resort. For reservations call (808) 325-8000 or fourseasons.com/hualalai.

BIG ISLAND BURRITOS A contemporary fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature Island Style Burritos, Loaded Rice Bowls, Local Farm Salads, and Fresh Soft Tacos! We have multiple styles and flavors to choose from. Their menu features straight-forward and self-explanatory menu items and caters to foodies looking for big burritos. Located in the food court at Queens' MarketPlace in Waikoloa Beach Resort.

Brown’s Beach House. Hawai`i Island cuisine and balmy tropical breezes beckon.

Unwind as the sun dips beneath the sea. Taste awardwinning favors featuring locally grown produce. Savor the best from the surf and the turf.

Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 8:30 pm.

For reservations, call 808.887.7368 or visit fairmont.com/orchid-hawaii.

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BROWN’S BEACH HOUSE Big Island-inspired cutting edge cuisine takes center stage at The Fairmont Orchid’s Brown’s Beach House restaurant known for its expansive ocean views, incomparable cuisine and sophisticated service with Aloha. Innovative island-inspired cuisine is drawn from simple, pure flavors of locally grown produce using the diverse variety of fresh seafood from our island waters and the finest mainland meats.

Open nightly for dinner beginning at 5:30 p.m.

Located oceanside at the Fairmont Orchid. Call (808) 887-7368.

COAST GRILLE At Coast Grille, Executive Chef, Peter Abarcar Jr and Chef de Cuisine, Vince Logan are passionate in the pursuit of the freshest island ingredients where sustainable, organic and wild ingredients are sourced to present, Island Seafood Gastronomy. Dine overlooking the breathtaking Pacific and indulge in the Coast Grille Oyster Bar featuring the freshest seafood including seasonal oysters with your choice of BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

7:08 pm The moment the conversation came to a standstill.

Your order arrives. All eyes are transfixed on your dish. The conversation revolves around flavor, taste and freshness. And suddenly you realize you won’t be able to keep this place a secret for long.

CALL 808 887 7368 VISIT FAIRMONT.COM/ORCHID-HAWAII

TASTE tempting sauces on the half shell or as a shooter.

Also presented are local delicacies including Salt Water Poached Kona Abalone and Fresh Catch Poke, made to order. Located at the Hapuna Beach Prince Hotel. For reservations call (808) 880-1111.

COPPER BAR After a multi-million dollar renovation, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel welcomes diners back to its iconic gathering place, the new Copper Bar. While the relaxed setting and magical sunsets remain, the bright new look and shared-plates culinary concept are shaking things up in a fun and inspired way. An elongated bar, a TV “lounge” area, an elevated communal dining table, multiple dining nooks, and open view planes accentuate the true centerpiece of Copper Bar—gorgeous panoramic views of Kauna‘oa Bay. Open daily 11am-11pm with complimentary valet parking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.

HAWAII CALLS RESTAURANT & LOUNGE Enjoy an elaborate daily breakfast buffet and a la carte menu. Salads, sandwiches and tropical drinks are available for lunch poolside or in the seated dining area. Dinner features Americanand Pacific Rim-style cuisine. Located at the Marriott Waikoloa Beach Resort. Call (808) 886-8111.

THE HUALĀLAI GRILLE A classic American steakhouse with local flair. Set above the 18th green of the famed Hualälai Golf Course, Hualälai Grille evokes a contemporary club feel, with dark wood flooring and magnificent golf course and ocean views. Serving Prime steaks with hand crafted traditional sides, island fresh fish, local Hämäkua Mushrooms, and Macadamia Nut Toffee Ice Cream Pie are just a few of Chef James Ebrero’s signature dishes. The Bar offers an extensive cocktail menu including the “19th Hole” Absolute Ruby Red Vodka, fresh squeezed Kohala grapefruit and lime juices and agave nectar. In addition, Hualälai Grille’s extensive wine list includes both wines by the glass and bottle, along with a wide beer selection.

Hualälai Grille is open for dinner Wednesday through Monday, with reservations available from 5:30 p.m. - 8:30 p.m. For information, please call (808) 325-8450 or (808) 325-8525.

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KAMUELA PROVISION COMPANY Captivating sunset ocean views are the perfect complement to enjoying our new menu.

Experience our mouth-watering cuisine of the Big Island. World class service in a world class setting. Open nightly for dinner and cocktails.

Reservations recommended. Located at the Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com..

KONA TAP ROOM This new island-style beer pub offers 16 craft and domestic beers on tap, including Kona Brewing Company favorites and seasonal options, along with creative “Surftinis & Beertails” like the Paddleboard Mojito, which combines Longboard Island Lager with Bacardi, house-made specialty mix, and mint for a Hawaiian spin on the classic cocktail. A locallysourced, beer-inspired menu includes dishes like Keahole lobster mac n’ cheese, Kona poke, pulled short rib sliders topped with fried quail eggs, sweet and spicy chili-nori tater tots and Kalua pork paninis. Open daily from 11am to midnight with live entertainment from 8pm to 11pm (hours may change seasonally). Located at Hilton Waikoloa Village. Call (808) 886-1234 or HiltonWaikoloaVillage.com.

MANTA & PAVILION WINE BAR Manta & Pavilion Wine Bar is pioneering Kohala Regional Cuisine, featuring ingredients grown and raised within a 15-mile radius especially for Mauna Kea Beach Hotel.

Complementing the cuisine is a state-of-theart Enomatic wine system serving outstanding wines by the glass, many found nowhere else in the state. For the ultimate food and wine experience, join our monthly Wine Dinners.

You’ll enjoy outstanding vintages paired with exquisite cuisine, and meet distinguished guests from the world of winemaking. Located at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel. For reservations call (808) 882-5810.

NORIO’S SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT Featuring authentic, traditional Japanese cuisine and stellar sushi. The sushi chefs bring a level of experience and quality to the Big Island normally associated with the better restaurants in Tokyo. The 15-seat custom sushi bar provides an ‘up close and personal’ culinary experience. The menu reflects a reverence for

traditional Japanese delicacies, especially the exceptionally fresh seafood that he hand-selects daily. Open Thursday through Monday 5:30 p.m.-9:00 p.m. Located at the Fairmont Orchid.

Call (808) 885-2000.

NUMBER 3 Thirsty golfers seeking a mid-round oasis, will love the tasteful new look and tasty menus of our new golf clubhouse restaurant, “Number 3” - almost good enough to guarantee a lower score on the back nine. Share a gourmet pizza in a relaxed, casual atmosphere, along with a cold one from the tap, signature Mauna Kea cocktails or frosty fruit smoothie. Located at the Mauna Kea Golf Course. For reservations call (808) 882-5810.

PUEO'S OSTERIA Pueo’s Osteria is an inviting, Italian-inspired restaurant that provides great food in a fun environment. Chef James Babian focuses on the finest Italian products paired with seafood, produce and meats from boutique farms (sourced locally whenever possible), including “farm-fresh” products from local farmers’ markets. Engaging service, approachable pricing, great flavors and food await at Pueo’s Osteria – Food, Wine & Fun … “where the night owls meet.” Happy hour daily from 4pm until 6pm, with dinner served nightly from 5:30pm, and a bar menu offered until midnight. Sunday Brunch from 8:30am until 2pm. Smart casual attire. Located in Waikoloa Highlands Shopping Center in Waikoloa Village.

Call (808) 339-7966 for reservations or visit PueosOsteria.com.

QUEENS’ MARKETPLACE ‘ONO FOOD COURT Food Network Star’s season eight finalist, Philip “Ippy” Aiona introduces “Ippy’s Hawaiian BBQ,” to the Queens’ Marketplace Food Court, presenting his special twist on the iconic Hawaiian plate lunch. Across the way, look for Lemongrass Express, serving Chef TK’s fresh Asian-fusion cuisine, locally sourced and full of flavor. Family favorites Hawaiian Fish N Chips, Dairy Queen/Orange Julius, Paradise Pizza & Grill and Subway Sandwiches and Salads make sure there is something for everyone in your ‘ohana! For more information, visit queensmarketplace.net.

BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

KEAUHOU SHOPPING CENTER 78-6831 Alii Drive, Kailua-Kona tropicstaphousekona.com 808-498-4507

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT 69-1022 Keana Place, Waikoloa Across from the Hilton Waikoloa tropicsalehouse.com 808-886-4287

Join us for local craft beers, fresh foods, live sports on 12 big screen tvs and superb hospitality!

Happy Hour 3-6 PM EVERYDAY

A contemporary , fresh island Mexican grill featuring signature islandstyle burritos, loaded rice bowls, local farm salads, and fresh soft tacos!

WAIKOLOA BEACH RESORT Queens' MarketPlace - Food Court bigislandburritos.com 808-339-7993 |

ROY'S WAIKOLOA Surrounded by the historic King’s Trail featuring petroglyphs and lava fields, Roy’s Waikoloa offers an exclusive dining experience with exceptional food and outstanding service.

Located in the King’s Shops, Roy’s Waikoloa opened 17 years ago among luxury resorts, residences and boutique shops. Dine with us and enjoy the bounty of Hawai‘i Island with the freshest local ingredients, the creative talents of our chefs and a grand view overlooking the Kings’ Course fairway and lake. Call (808) 8864321 or visit royshawaii.com for reservations.

SEAFOOD BAR & GRILL Savor the true flavors of Hawai‘i and visit Seafood Bar & Grill in the historic harbor town of Kawaihae on the Kohala Coast. Since 2002, we’ve been serving the freshest local seafood in a casual and fun atmosphere where you can sit comfortably, inside or out. Try one of our signature dishes like the Seafood Crusted Fresh Catch, Ginger Steamed Clams or our famous Fried Rice. We promise food that is both delectable and reasonably priced. You can also slide up to our beautiful 70-foot Mango wood

bar and enjoy one of the island’s finest Happy Hours with well drinks, mai tais, import beers, drafts, margaritas, house wines, and more.

Embracing the true “aloha spirit,” join us for a delicious dining experience you won’t forget.

Call (808) 880-9393 or visit seafoodbargrill.com.

STAVROS PATERAKIS, PRIVATE CHEF With 15 years of experience cooking in awardwinning restaurants on the West Coast and the Big Island, Stavros Paterakis now brings his culinary talents to the comforts of your home, vacation rental or outdoor setting to take you on a flavorful journey. From Hawaiian Regional to American classics to various ethnic cuisines, Stavros will create menus to cater to your personal tastes and needs using the freshest bounty of the Big Island. Whether it is an intimate dinner for two, family-style gathering or special event, Stavros will make it an unforgettable dining experience. References are available upon request. For bookings, call (808) 895-1654 or Squidlid@aol.com.

THE CANOEHOUSE The CanoeHouse is located oceanfront on the scenic Kohala Coast offering breathtaking views of the crystal blue Pacific. The talented and acclaimed Chef Allan Nagun has developed a market fresh menu focusing on Island fresh ingredients of Hawai‘i. We aim to provide a world-class dining experience. Located oceanfront at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows. Call (808) 885-6622 for reservations.

TROPICS ALE HOUSE Tropics Tap House & Ale House are “Fresh Kitchen” contemporary restaurants, craft beer bar and sports lounge concepts. The “Fresh Kitchen” movement has been inspired by a large consumer interest in local, sustainable, and in some cases, organic foods that are fused together to create amazing, fresh menu items.

In addition to the food, the bar and beverage service is aimed towards craft beers that are unique and seasonal, craft cocktails (using only premium liquors and garnishes), and precisely selected wines that complement our fresh food.

Tropics features a “Contemporary American

BIG ISLAND

Kawaihae

Seafood Bar & Grill FRESH LOCAL FISH DAILY FRESH FISH BURGERS CLAMS STEAKS PIZZAS SALADS Daily 11am - 11pm 5-6:30 Early Bird FRESH FISH Dinner Kiawe Smoked Prime Rib ~ Tuesday Nights Best Kawaihae Restaurant Trip Advisor Best Happy Hour 3-6pm West Hawaii Today Best Seafood West Hawaii Today

808-880-9393 Air-Conditioned 61-3642 Kawaihae Road

www.seafoodbarandgrill.com 74

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TASTE Grill” menu with inspiration from the wonderful local ingredients on the island. We serve plates in smaller and larger portions, ranging between $7-$17, and daily specials that vary in portion and price. Come in for Happy Hour daily.

Visit us in Waikoloa Beach Resort, across from the Hilton Waikoloa, and in the Keauhou Shopping Center. Call (808) 886-4287 or visit tropicsalehouse.com for more information.

‘ULU OCEAN GRILL + SUSHI LOUNGE Showcasing a stylish blend of Hawaiian architecture and modern flair - a fun, lively, informal setting where guests are inspired, surprised and delighted by Hawai‘i’s natural beauty and the flavors of the Pacific. Casual, friendly and knowledgeable servers guide guests through a social dining experience, highlighting an innovative ocean-to-table menu with playful tableside presentation. Cuisine is prepared oven roasted, flame grilled and wok fired, and signature dishes include: Oven Roasted Whole Fish, Lobster Wonton Soup, Table-side Ahi Poke and Lilikoi Malasadas. The modern sushi lounge and 10-seat ocean view bar feature the Island’s freshest sushi, as well as craft cocktails,

myhawaiitraveler.com

sake and Japanese beers. After-dinner drinks are enjoyed in a social setting around the fire pit on the beachside terrace. For reservations call (808) 325-8000.

KONA ISLAND BREEZE LŪ‘AU This award winning lü‘au is held on the historic grounds of King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Savor the delicious feast as you revel in the colorful costumes and dances from Polynesia. Highlights include the Royal Court arrival, imu (underground oven) ceremony, arts & crafts, and a spectacular Polynesian show with the Samoan fireknife dance finale.

For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit islandbreezeluau.com.

KEAUHOU-KONA HALEO LŪ‘AU Held under the starry skies and hala trees on the shores of Keauhou Bay, Haleo – the Voice of Life is Hawai‘i’s newest lü‘au. From the birth of Hawai‘i’s royalty to the surfing stories of He‘eia Bay, the dancers of Island Breeze take you on a colorful and entertaining journey through a

special time in Hawai‘i’s history. Dine on a lavish buffet in a stunning oceanfront location where manta rays gather, whales breach, sunsets are stunning, and the sights and sounds of Polynesia all combine to create a special evening in paradise. Monday evenings at Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa. For reservations call (808) 326-4969 or visit haleoluau.com.

RAYS ON THE BAY Situated on dramatic lava rocks iconic of the Kona Coast, Rays on the Bay features sustainable Big Island-inspired cuisine from farm to plate and hook to cook. Enjoy rich Island flavors like Kona Coffee, sea salt, lilikoi (passion fruit) and fresh fish, paired with volcanic wines and local spirits. Take in a crimson Keauhou sunset while you dine on coastal inspired entrees with gorgeous views of Keauhou Bay. After sunset, enjoy a beverage as you view Keauhou’s giant resident manta rays – gracefully swimming along the coast. Located at the Sheraton Kona Resort & Spa at Keauhou Bay. Dinner served nightly from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m., bar & patio open 5:30 to 11 p.m. Call (808) 930-4949.

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When it comes to Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine, Roy Yamaguchi is a legend. And at Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill, his eponymous restaurant, diners can enjoy his longtime classics and new traditions featuring fresh, local ingredients with an island-inspired perspective.

According to General Manager Arnie McLain, one of the most popular dishes on the menu is the Roy’s Canoe Appetizer for Two. This sampler features Roy’s signature Szechuan Baby Back Ribs, Kuluna Wild Boar Rangoon, with boar sausages and a sweet pineapple chutney on top, Teppanyaki Shrimp Stix with a wasabi cocktail sauce, Chicken and Long Rice Spring Rolls, and a Spicy Ahi Roll topped with crunchy bubu arare garnish. Served on a canoe-shaped platter, everything on this dish is scrumptious and has a piece for each person to enjoy; and the nice thing about the platter is that it can be amended based on the size of your group whether it’s a party for one or five—Roy’s Waikoloa will accommodate.

Diners also shouldn’t miss the Aloha Hour Prix Fixe Menu, where for $58, you receive an appetizer sampler, a choice of entrée and choice of dessert. The sizeable appetizer features three of Roy’s signature 76

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PHOTO COURTESY: CRAIG BIXEL

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dishes, including the Szechuan Baby Back Ribs, Chicken Spring Rolls, and Spicy Ahi Roll. Dinner choices include macadamia nut crusted fish of the day, the Hale (house) Meatloaf with Hämäkua Mushroom Gravy, or the Jade Pesto Steamed Local Fresh Catch served with sizzling aromatics. The prix fixe also includes a choice of dessert, but most regulars come in just for the delectable signature dessert, Roy’s Melting Hot Chocolate Soufflé. Seriously, dinner just happens to come before the incredible airy and decadent soufflé. The Aloha Hour also features specials on other menu items, but no matter what you order, dinner at Roy’s is an island tradition worth savoring.

Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grill serves dinner daily from 5pm to 9:30pm, and is located in the Kings’ Shops at Waikoloa Beach Resort. Reservations are strongly recommended, and can be made by calling (808) 886-4321 or visiting royshawaii.com/roys-waikoloa.html. Aloha Hour specials run from 5pm to 6pm daily. myhawaiitraveler.com

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WWLN FUSION OF COMFORT French and Hawaiian cuisines don’t tend to have much in common, but The Blue Room Brasserie & Bar has taken on this challenge.

Located on the westside of the Big Island at The Shops at Mauna Lani, the gastronomic traditions of France have fused perfectly with Hawaiian tradition and cuisine to create a unique dining experience.

Lovingly named after the reception room at the ÿIolani Palace, The Blue Room brings together French cooking techniques married with local products to create memorable dishes. Where else can you find Foie Gras Torchon with pineapple chutney and macadamia nuts, or a Fruits de Mer (plate of the fruits of the sea) featuring locally grown abalone? Don’t miss the Pumpkin and Onion Gratineé, a delicious twist on an old favorite, or my all time go-to dish, the Croque Monsieur, an elevated ham and cheese sandwich that is downright cravable. The Blue Room Brasserie also features outdoor dining on the open-air länai (patio), the perfect tribute to dining al fresco along the rues (streets) of Paris. We may not have the Seine as a backdrop, but we’ll always have The Blue Room.

The Blue Room Brasserie & Bar is located at The Shops at Mauna Lani, and is open for lunch and dinner from 11:30am to 10pm. Reservations can be made by calling (808) 887-0999. For more information, visit theblueroomhi.com.

DONUTS ON WHEELS Ever find yourself in the mood for a sweet treat after a long day of sun and sand? Or what about a new spin on your morning coffee and donut? For those cruising along the Kohala Coast on the Queen K or going through Waimea Town, or even occasionally stocking up at Costco, those with a sudden urge for something sweet are in luck. Manuela Malasada Company, recognized by locals as the Blue Malasada Truck, is serving up fresh and hot malasadas, or Portuguese donuts, and has garnered quite a large following with many regulars.

Made to order, these yummy donuts are the perfect pick for snacking after a long day at the beach. Each truck offers these warm, soft, pillowy donuts with your choice of sugar topping (local-tip: try the cinnamon-sugar ones, or for a real local treat, the tart li hing sugar topping), and even fillings, such as guava, mango, chocolate, haupia (coconut), or lilikoÿi (passion fruit).

No matter where you’re driving around the island, look out for the “Hawaii’s Ultimate Donuts” sign. When you see it on the side of the road, you will be happy to make an unplanned pit stop. Since it’s freshly made, you have to have a little patience, but they are definitely worth it.

Manuela Malasada Company is open daily in Waimea at 65-1148 Mämalahoa Highway in the center of town in the KTA parking lot. You can find their other trucks periodically at different west side locations, including regularly near the beaches in Puakö and occasionally in Kailua-Kona.

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TAP INTO GOOD TIMES Looking for a great place with a laidback vibe after a long day of hiking or snorkeling, or to watch the big basketball game? The Kona Tap Room at the Hilton Waikoloa Village is the perfect place to grab a drink, play a game of pool, and wind down after another fun day of island exploration. Featuring 16 beers on tap, the Kona Tap Room highlights beers from the super popular Kona Brewing Company, making it easier for visitors to try out the local tipple in a fun, relaxed atmosphere.

Local faves include the Longboard Island Lager, Big Wave Golden Ale, and even harder to come by options such as Lemongrass Blonde Ale and Hula Hefeweizen. Not a beer drinker? Kona Tap Room also features tropical cocktails as well as wines, with choices ranging from fruity New Zealand Sauvignon blancs to robust Pinot Noirs. And you can’t watch the big game or kick back without some ÿono, or delicious, munchies to go along with it. The Kona Tap Room’s casual food menu includes creamy Lobster Mac n Cheese, crunchy and delicious Poke Nachos, tasty Pork Belly Sliders (personal fave), and fresh fish tacos. And for the night owls, Kona Tap Room is open late. Whether you’re looking for a cozy place for some day drinks or some late night action, Kona Tap Room is the place to be.

The Kona Tap Room at the Hilton Waikoloa Village is open daily from 11am to midnight, with nightly entertainment from 8pm to 11pm. To check out their menu, visit hiltonwaikoloavillage.com/indulge/dining/kona-tap-room. myhawaiitraveler.com

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THE FISH & THE HOG MARKET CAFE There are many places across the U.S.A. that are famous for meaty, smoky BBQ. It’s not uncommon for people to travel far distances to the notable capitals of BBQ just to get a taste from Memphis, Kansas City, and Lexington, to Austin, Dallas and beyond. And while people take pilgrimages to Hawaiÿi for a whole host of reasons, BBQ is not typically one of them. In the charming paniolo (cowboy) town of Waimea, tucked inside an old plantation-style building, The Fish & The Hog Market Cafe does a fine job holding its own when it comes to bragging rights of serving up great BBQ. If you get a hankering for tasty, finger-lickin’ good BBQ, this is the right place to go on this side of the Pacific. Plus, they offer delicious fresh local fish dishes along with amazing desserts.

Priding themselves on cooking high quality food using fresh, local ingredients, restaurateur Lisa Vann and her partner and pit master Ben Krueger have a product that is worthy of a thousand journeys. Like all good pilgrimages, mine included a little bit of drama, but ended with the perfect reward for our troubles. I had recently taken my own trek to The Fish & The Hog from Kona with my husband and in-laws, and just as we entered Waimea Town, our car decided to stop working.

Fortunately, we have some friends living in Waimea who offered to help us out, and for their troubles, we treated them to lunch.

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Our group of seven dined on a variety of dishes, including BBQ favorites such as brisket so tender it can be cut with a fork, meaty and juicy ribs with a sweet and tangy sauce, succulent pulled pork, and fish tacos the size of the plate! We had heard that the homemade desserts were not to be missed, and we were so glad we didn’t—a giant slice of creamy banana cream pie, and the massive and not overly sweet coconut cake arrived, and our group gobbled both up happily. Not a single one of us left hungry or disappointed, except when it came time to think about our disabled car.

Lisa’s own journey to Hawaiÿi took a few twists and turns, as she ran restaurants around the world, starting off in Toronto, winding over to Tokyo, and finally making it to Hawaiÿi. After a few iterations, The Fish & The Hog, a play on the phrase “surf and turf,” was dreamed up with Ben’s help, as his passion for BBQ grew. Lisa had a vision of a familystyle restaurant that was environmentally friendly. She uses upcycled materials and hunts down tables and chairs at garage sales around the island. Her attention to detail has helped create a really homey restaurant with nods to the cowboy town’s past and farmland—look up to see a set of bull’s horns or two mounted on the wall.

The township, it seems, has gone along with Lisa for the journey.

Regulars come back frequently, some on a daily basis, to sample from BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

the vast menu. It’s a small town, so buy-in from the community was important for their success. Lisa is extremely committed to charitable causes in the area as well. “We’re located in a small community, and it takes a village,” she says about their success. But, it’s not just the nearby residents who make it a point to dine here—BBQ aficionados come from all over the island and across the state to satiate their craving for smoked meat patiently cooked with precision and great flavor. It’s important to get here early, though, as favorites sell out fast and don’t reappear until the next day.

Executive Chef Keoki Ah Chin adds his own spin on the menu, coming up with specials, and made a big splash with his sweet and spicy chicken wings. Lisa sings his and Ben’s praises, recognizing them as the stars of the show along with her amazing and talented staff. The fresh, local ingredients are also stars, from the local fisherman bringing in their catches each day, to using only the freshest locally grown produce.

When I ask Lisa about menu favorites, she recommends the same dishes our group also highly recommends. Their burgers, which have been called the best burgers ever, are made with hand-ground brisket cooked on the grill and gently seasoned at cooking time. The other big hits from our party were the melt-in-your-mouth brisket, the standout poke nachos, the beer-battered fish and house-cut chips, myhawaiitraveler.com

and scrumptious baby back ribs. Even the sides are standouts, such as the colossal, perfectly fried onion rings, the moist cheddar and green chile cornbread, the smoky, sweet and spicy baked beans, and the light rainbow coleslaw. With all the tempting offerings, it’s hard to save room for dessert—it’s a good thing you can take it to go.

In the end, our car was towed, our friends saved the day, and our pilgrimage to amazing BBQ had come to an end. We were all stuffed, and didn’t even have room for dinner later in the evening. And isn’t that what great food journeys are about? Spending time with those you love, enjoying a meal of epic proportions, and feeling more than satisfied at the end of the day?

The Fish & The Hog Market Cafe is located in the town of Waimea at 64-957 Mämalahoa Highway and open daily serving lunch and dinner from 11am to 8pm. Besides lunch and dinner, they also sell provisions such as their own rubs and sauces, as well as locally grown products. They do not take reservations, so seating is first come, first serve. The Fish & The Hog also has a quaint bar with televisions if you want to catch a game while enjoying your meal. The Fish & The Hog also does catering for all types of events. For more information, call (808) 885-6268.

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CULINARY Q&A EXECUTIVE SOUS CHEF RIO MICELI

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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Growing up in Hawi, a small community at the northern tip of the Big Island, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel’s Executive Sous Chef Rio Miceli gained an early appreciation for the local produce of our beautiful island. With a passion for preparing food that started from a young age, and a family that helped cultivate that passion, Chef Rio has been the head of one of North Kohala’s top dining destinations. With a couple of stints in the Bay Area and Vermont, Chef Rio gained a broader culinary perspective, influencing his cooking philosophy and techniques.

Recently, he’s been moving up the ladder at the legendary Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, where he helps craft the menus at Manta and Copper Bar. There, he brings his passion for food, his knowledge of local produce, and his delicious, thoughtful cuisine to a wider audience. Residents and resort guests are loving it—and we suspect you will too.

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What initially sparked your passion for food?

Working in Bistro Ralph in Healdsburg, CA. I was the pantry cook on a small three-man line. I made all the dressings from scratch, and was in charge of making all the stocks. My favorite dish to prepare there was the steak tartare, which I would cut to order. Every dish was put out with passion and respect for the product, which was generally locally sourced. The chefs there took me under their wing and introduced me to the glamorous life of being a cook.

What is your earliest food memory?

Preparing eggs for myself every morning at around 4am at the age of 5. I was an early riser and a big fan of breakfast. My parents, not being morning people taught me how to make eggs on our gas stove, gave me a step stool, and turned me loose. The memory sticks with me to this day, because every time I eat scrambled eggs, I find myself critiquing the level of moisture, fluff, and seasoning as if it’s a soufflé.

How did growing up in Hawi influence your cooking?

Growing up in Hawi, a rural community here on Hawaiÿi Island, my parents were farmers. I was raised to respect the importance of organically raised vegetables. We traded vegetables with other farmers for fresh, raw cow’s milk and whole pigs.

My mom is Italian, so we used to eat a lot of pasta and artichokes. ÿAhi (Hawaiian tuna), sashimi-style, was a staple appetizer in our household. I had Filipino neighbors that I was close with as a child and would often have traditional Filipino meals at their house. I fondly remember many lüÿau from my early years too. Staying up late with the “uncles” to prepare the imu, or underground oven, for the pig and the laulau to be cooked until the next morning. All of these experiences stick with me and influence my palate today.

How did your experience living and working in San Francisco and Vermont influence your cooking?

San Francisco gave me a great sense of how to stay ahead of culinary trends and create my own identity in the kitchen. With the wealth of restaurant competition and local products to choose from, the culture forces you into creating your own culinary stamp. myhawaiitraveler.com

Vermont gave me my foundation of classic culinary skills. Attending New England Culinary Institute instilled in me all the foundational skills of the modern-day chef. Vermont also has a very grassroots approach to artisanal farm products like cheese, wild fermentation, and cured meats. This inspired me to experiment with cheesemaking, sauerkraut, and salami making.

What is your can’t-live-without local ingredient/product?

Dried fish, like aku, or skipjack, and ÿöpelu, or mackerel scad. The salty umami flavor and dense chewy texture is irresistible to me.

If we were to take a peek into your refrigerator/pantry, what is the most surprising ingredient that we’d find?

Salt-cured, whole anchovies from Italy or kombucha starter.

In your opinion, what makes the food on the Big Island so special?

Food on the Big Island is special in the sense that we have an abundance of great farms, ranches, and fisheries—and they are all virtually our neighbors. The culture of work ethic here is a labor of love. People don’t call the Big Island home unless they sincerely love and care for this land. So, while a lot of the small farms, ranches, and day-boat fisherman don’t get rich off the fruits of their labor, the passion they put into their product injects a level of love and passion that shines through to the plate.

What can guests expect when they come dine at your restaurants?

A unique island dining experience, featuring ingredients from local farms and fishermen, prepared in an unpretentious true-to-the-product fashion.

What do you consider to be your signature dish, and what makes it so special?

Hawaiian Sweet Potato Encrusted ÿAhi at Manta. What’s special about this dish is that it almost exclusively features traditional Hawaiian and canoe crop ingredients. ÿUala (sweet potato), ÿulu (breadfruit), ÿölena (turmeric), ÿahi, and niu (coconut). It gives you a taste of the traditional Hawaiian diet reformatted to suit the modern palate.

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PUT A LITTLE SPRING IN YOUR SIP This is the season to discover delicious new faves.

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

The gentle winds and warm sunshine of spring create an ideal setting to host informal get-togethers with friends or family where you can enjoy the lighter fares and fresh ingredients the season has to offer. When creating your menu, incorporating lighter styles of wine will not only complement the food being shared, but also add to the buoyancy of the season allowing you to sit back and effortlessly enjoy a glass of good wine.

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One varietal to add to your spring repertoire is a favorite wine of many sommeliers, Grüner Veltliner. This white grape is indigenous to Austria, but wineries across the United States have begun growing this grape after being captivated by Grüner Veltliner’s exotic palate and food-friendly reputation.

A standout of this varietal is the 2012 Leth Grüner Veltliner Steinagrund ($15 per bottle; winelibrary.com), which opens with light aromas of melon, citrus, and lemon zest. The rich minerality of this wine is complemented with Grüner Veltliner’s indicative white pepper flavor making for a refined wine to enjoy with a classic dish of grilled asparagus topped with shaved Parmesan. The vegetal aromas noted in most Grüner Veltliner mirrors the flavors in the asparagus while the nuttiness of the Parmesan is balanced with the light fruit aromas found in this wine.

When looking for a new world rendition of Grüner Veltliner, the 2015 Dancing Coyote Grüner Veltliner ($12 per bottle; wine.com) from Clarksburg, California offers a fuller body and warmer palate than its Austrian counterpart. The white pepper characteristic of the grape is paired with white peach aromas making it a perfect choice to enjoy with a dish like bacon-wrapped scallops. The minerality and citrus aspects of this wine complements the flavors from the scallops while the peaches provide complementary opposition against the smoky bacon.

Another stellar varietal to enjoy during the spring months is the aromatically intriguing Riesling. When grown in its native land of Germany, the cool climate brings out aromas of apples, peaches, and ripe pears interlaced around a vein of acidity. And when grown in warmer regions, such as Australia, the grape blossoms with clarity and a fresh lime flavor that is known to be peerless in the world of wine.

The 2015 Von Hövel Riesling Kabinett from Mosel, Germany ($17 per bottle; klwines.com) is an example of the complex flavors found in top-notch Rieslings from this region. A delicate perfume of white blossoms greets the nose while the palate is met with elegant flavors of citrus and apple that is the perfect accompaniment to a dish with a touch of heat such as Kauaÿi shrimp sautéed in butter, garlic, and shallots. The trace of residual sugar found in this wine balances any heat from the garlic and shallots while the citrus and fruit elements of this wine keeps the palate cleansed between bites of this aromatic and flavorful dish. myhawaiitraveler.com

When searching for a Riesling from Australia, the 2013 Pikes Hills and Valleys Riesling from Clare Valley ($16 per bottle; wine.com) embodies the region’s take on this varietal. Initially tight on the palate, this wine evolves into a symphony of mouthwatering lemon zest and sun-ripened citrus flavors situated against a backdrop of slate and minerality. This is a beautiful accompaniment to a local favorite of limu ÿahi poke (marinated raw tuna fish). The citrus and lemon flavors keeps your palate fresh between bites while the hint of sweetness innate in Riesling balances the robust seasonings in the poke to create harmony.

If you are looking for a lighter-bodied red wine to enjoy during spring, opting for an unfiltered Pinot Noir delivers all the aspects of a flavorful red wine without the weight. When the term “unfiltered” is added, this speaks of a philosophy of the winemaker to retain natural characteristics of the wine by refraining from filtering out sediment, which can, in some opinions, remove some of the nuanced flavors found in unfiltered wines.

The supple mouthfeel is what most wine connoisseurs first notice when enjoying the unfiltered 2015 Wanaka Road Pinot Noir from Central Otago ($20 per bottle; klwines.com). The elegant nose of dark berries and thyme can be an unexpectedly delightful choice when enjoying Hawaiian foods such as laulau (steamed pork in greens). The ripe berry flavors complement the pork in weight while providing an opposing flavor palate. The deep, earthy flavors hidden within the layers of this wine play beautifully against the steamed greens of this dish.

And if you are looking for an unfiltered Pinot Noir to indulge in, the 2013 J. Christopher Nuages ($39 per bottle; wine.com) is an ideal choice when enjoying poached salmon topped with fresh herbs and cracked black pepper. Dark, sweet fruits open this wine that evolve into rich vanilla with hints of smoke and herbaceous notes that linger on the long finish. The velvet-soft mouthfeel of this wine matches the weight of the salmon while the smoke and herbs enhances the nuanced seasoning in this elegant entrée.

Whether reaching for a chilled glass of Grüner Veltliner or swirling soulful Pinot Noir, spring is the time of year to unwind and enjoy wines without fuss. From hosting an impromptu brunch to an intimate dinner party, let the carefree feeling of the season impact your foods and wines to create a lighthearted ambiance of tranquility.

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THE HEAVENLY BEAN There is no such thing as plain vanilla on the Big Island.

WORDS BROOKE REHMANN

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IMAGES COURTESY: HAWAIIAN VANILLA COMPANY (ALL)

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igh above the dramatic Hämäkua coastline hides a farm growing one of the most expensive and hard to come by spices the world over. There, a farmer and his family-run business grow acres of vanilla orchids, a twenty-year labor of love that has benefited Hawaiÿi’s culinary landscape. Used by worldrenowned chefs both in Hawaiÿi and beyond, the Hawaiian Vanilla Company’s vanilla is used to flavor dishes that delight diners across the islands. For those lucky enough to visit the Big Island, an afternoon on the farm is the perfect excursion for anyone that appreciates good food that is locally-sourced or has an affinity for vanilla.

Jim Reddekopp and his wife moved from Oÿahu 20 years ago in the hopes of trading in the urban lifestyle for a more agrarian one. And, as the vanilla production process expanded, so too did his family. Over the years, their five children have learned the ins and outs of not only farm living, but also how to run a successful business. And when you visit the farm, you’ll see just how ingrained his family is into the success of their company.

As you ascend the hills and drive through the open pastures and towering eucalyptus trees, you arrive at a rustic old plantation-style building, previously used as a slaughterhouse. Remnants of this history still remain in the open-kitchen, where hooks on revolving chains hang high above. Today, though, the building is bright and

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cheery, painted yellow with vintage touches throughout. Guests enter through the gift shop, with shelves filled with estate-grown vanilla and products enhanced with the delicate spice.

I recently spent a truly enjoyable afternoon of dining and education during the Hawaiian Vanilla Company’s delicious and informative Vanilla Experience Luncheon and Farm Tour. All tours require advance reservations, especially because the lunches are specifically prepared for the diners that day. Jim’s daughter made the meal, while his son typically leads the tour and cooking demonstration. On the day I visited, it was Jim who enthusiastically demonstrated a cooking demo featuring their vanilla added to a curry butter sauce, used to sauté plump shrimp, served atop a crunchy piece of bread with a pineapple chutney as a base. It’s a delicious amuse-bouche, or whetting of the appetite, and a wonderful opening for the following lunch course.

Meanwhile, you sip on your vanilla iced tea, vanilla lemonade, or the “Jimmy Boy,” a twist on the famous Arnold Palmer.

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All the while cooking, Jim discussed how vanilla is best used.

Because it is such a delicate spice, it needs a carrier to enhance its flavor—acid, such as lemon or pineapple; or fat, such as butter or ice cream. These help highlight the flavor of the vanilla, extracting the best taste per bite. A bean is sent through the dining room for each diner to examine and sniff. It has an incredibly fragrant smell, but we are warned that the bean itself has a bitter taste.

After the amuse-bouche, our lunch arrives, a sandwich consisting of a sizeable chicken breast with a vanilla citrus bourbon marinade, on top of a vanilla sweet bread bun, topped with vanilla caramelized onions.

Two sauces are served on the side, a vanilla barbeque sauce and vanilla mango chutney aioli. Along with the sandwich, the plate comes with organic greens, a vanilla raspberry balsamic dressing, vanilla honey peppered pecans, and a side of roasted potatoes sprinkled with their savory vanilla southwest rub. All the mentioning of vanilla sounds like the flavor might overpower your tastebuds, and yet, it doesn’t. Each BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

dish is subtly enhanced with this unique spice, gently adding a different dimension to dishes you’ve had in other iterations; and yet, you are now tasting in a completely new way. All guests around me agree— lunch is a delicious hit.

After lunch, we tour the vanilla growing area of the farm. Under shade, the vanilla orchid thrives. It prefers to be fed through its leaves, though it does need some nutrients from the roots. Here at the farm, we see a system devised by Jim to keep the roots off the ground, to avoid overwatering, as the roots are covered by moss and other loose particles. Each visitor gets to investigate the plants, but not touch them, and we learn about how each vanilla orchid must be hand pollinated during the exact day that it flowers. Then, six to eight weeks of swelling take place, followed by six to eight months on the vine, finishing with six months of curing. It is no wonder why vanilla is such an expensive commodity.

As the tour winds down, Jim talks about his mentor, Mr. Tom myhawaiitraveler.com

Kadooka, who taught him the vanilla growing process. His affinity for his friend is palpable, and as consumers of the vanilla, you can’t help but also be grateful for this friendship. Jim talks about his desire to see others grow vanilla around the island, and that his dream isn’t confined to just his farm. After taking the tour and learning about his mentor, and how he’s sharing this knowledge with his children and visitors to the farm, you can’t help but walk away feeling motivated to take with you this knowledge into the future. You’ll never look at vanilla the same way again.

The Hawaiian Vanilla Company is located at 43-2007 Paÿauilo Mauka Road in Paÿauilo, along the Hämäkua Coast. Their gift shop is open Mondays through Saturdays from 10am to 3pm. The lunch tour is offered Monday through Friday from 12:30pm; and farm tours begin at 1pm.

Reservations for all tours are required. For more information about their products and tours, visit thevanillachef.com.

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ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLE With most of the thirteen climate zones, the Big Island is considered by many as a minicontinent. Where else in the world can you snow-ski in the morning and sunbathe on nationally-ranked beaches in the afternoon? Hawai‘i Island boasts world-renowned golf, spas, dive and snorkel sites, the best hiking and camping, the world’s most active volcano, the clearest night skies for stargazing, and endless activities in which to experience it all.

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EXPLORE OUR KONA AIR TOURS PARADISE HELICOPTERS

Explore paradise on the Hawai‘i helicopter adventure of a lifetime. Paradise Helicopters are the experts in offering an exciting, well-planned, and safe helicopter experience. See breathtaking waterfalls, active volcanoes, panoramic coastlines and wondrous mountain ranges on one of the best heli tours Hawai‘i has to offer. See nature in its most beautiful form.

Experience it all from the comfort of our helicopters and the Big Island will reveal itself to you in a way never imagined. So ride along as our experienced guides show you the wonders of the islands, and happily answer any question you might have along the way. Visit paradisecopters.com or call (808) 969-7392.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Soar directly to the Kilauea Volcanic System to view the current activity, which may include cinder cones and spectacular fiery lava lakes. View the Lava Tree Forest and the waterfalls among the Wailuku River and Hilo Bay. A family-owned company, Safari Helicopters was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Navel Reserve and one of Hawai‘i’s most experienced pilots. Preston has, over the years, built his company and reputation on the sound principles of safety, professionalism and innovation-always striving to offer the latest in state-of-the-art equipment to assure passengers of an unsurpassable and unforgettable helicopter “safari.” Preston wants Safari passengers to fully enjoy their adventure, but he considers safety of the utmost importance. He holds to the axiom “there are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots,” and he requires that all his Safari pilots adhere to the same high standards of professionalism that he personally carried out over the years. Visit online at safarihelicopters.com for a great discount or call (800) 326-3356.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience the adventure of a lifetime. The Intensity of the volcanic landscape and hidden tropical valleys will surely take your breath away. Sunshine proudly celebrates over 25 years of operation with an excellent safety record. Recipient of the Helicopters Association International “Platinum Program of Safety” award and a member of (T.O.P.S.) Tour Operators Program of Safety. Depart from our exclusive Hapuna Heliport or Hilo airport. Call (808) 882-1223 or visit sunshinehelicopters.com.

EXPLORE HAWAII FOREST & TRAIL

Awarded 2006 Ecotour Operator of the Year, Hawaii Forest & Trail has over eight different Nature Adventure Tours which showcase the Big Island’s scenic diversity.

Our Nature Adventure Tours feature the best tour locales, great customer service, relaxed easy walks and hikes led by professionally-trained Interpretive Guides.

We’ll share with you the volcanoes, waterfalls, valleys, rainforests and summits, in addition to the life and legends of Hawaii. Frommer’s Guide to Hawai‘i says “...

May very well be the highlight of your vacation.” For reservations, call (800) 464-1993 or online at hawaiiforest.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

NO AQUARIUM, NO TANK IN A MARINE LAND, HOWEVER SPACIOUS IT MAY BE, CAN BEGIN TO DUPLICATE THE CONDITIONS OF THE SEA. -JACQUES YVES COUSTEAU

atlantisadventures.com | ( 8 0 8 ) 3 2 7-1 4 4 1 | #atlantishawaii EX PLOR E OU R KON A

MAUNA KEA SUMMIT ADVENTURES

Mauna Kea Summit Adventures is the Original Sunset & Stargazing Tour. The ancient Hawaiians thought of the top of Mauna Kea as heaven, or at least where the Gods and Goddesses lived. As the pioneer guide service on Mauna Kea, we have over 35 years experience. Our professional guides are passionate, educational and fun. Beautiful, dramatic photo opportunities abound.

Experience treasures of the night sky through our telescope. We provide a delicious hot supper served mid-mountain, hot drinks, arctic style parkas with hoods and convenient pick-up points in Kailua-Kona, Waikoloa & Hwy 190 and Hwy 200 junction. (808) 332-2366 or online at maunakea.com.

SNORKEL, SAIL & SUB ATLANTIS SUBMARINES

An unforgettable 45-minute journey aboard an Atlantis 48-passenger submarine, as featured in National Geographic television specials, where guests explore a 25-acre natural coral reef and its marine inhabitants.

Allow Atlantis Submarines to show you the other 96% of Kona you can't see any other way. Treat yourself to Kona's most beautiful and captivating scenery, habitats, and isolated treasures. You'll descend 100 feet into another version of paradise -- one hidden even from the people of Hawaii for centuries. Atlantis Kona offers a journey aboard a 48-passenger submarine. Guests will discover an 18,000-year-old, 25-acre fringing coral reef, which boasts a vibrant ecosystem of coral formations and tropical fish. Tours provide narration in Japanese via headsets. For reservations call (808) 327-1441.

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ADVENTURE BODY GLOVE CRUISES

All of our cruises are complimented by the first-class amenities on board our state-of-the-art, 65-foot catamaran. The Kanoa II is an award winning, multimillion dollar vessel designed with quality and comfort in mind. Our guests enjoy plenty of shade, cushioned seating, flat screen televisions, a full sound system for live entertainment, and our full service premium bar.

The Kanoa II is equipped with three restrooms, two fresh water showers, a 20-foot water slide, a 15-foot high dive platform, two large double swim platforms, and floatation toys for everyone. Call (888) 253-0397 or visit bodyglovehawaii.com.

FAIR WIND CRUISES

Located in Keauhou-Kona on the Big Island of Hawai‘i, Fair Wind Cruises has been offering snorkel excursions since 1971. We offer two vessels with two very unique snorkel experiences. Our snorkel destination on Fair Wind II, historic Kealakekua Bay, is without question one of the most relaxing areas for snorkeling - maintaining clear visibility and very calm waters throughout the day. Our newest vessel, Hula Kai, has been designed and built to accommodate guests who seek the very best in luxury, comfort, and technology.

Our Hula Kai cruise offers the advanced snorkeler a way to explore some of Kona’s most unique and less traveled snorkel destinations along the spectacular Kona Coast shoreline. Call (808) 345-6213 or visit fairwind.com.

MAUNA LANI SEA ADVENTURES

Whatever your pleasure “Winona” offers regularly scheduled cruises and exclusive charters.

Our Polynesian sailing catamaran has spacious deck and seating areas for sunning or just relaxing. Join us on our dive boats for a scuba diving adventure at one of our 30 dive sites, and experience the under world of tropical fish, beautiful coral reefs, caves, and arches.

If diving is not your pleasure, try our snorkel sail on “Winona” where you can relax under the sun and enjoy great snorkeling along the Kohala coast. Maybe relaxing and watching a sunset Hawaiian style is more your pace. Then come sail with us along the Kohala coastline and take in the views of the island from afar and watch the sunset while you enjoy cocktails and püpü (appetizer). If you join us from December to April, you can watch the majestic humpback whales during their annual migration to the warm Hawaiian waters.

Located at Mauna Lani Resort. Call (808) 885-7883 or visit maunalaniseaadventures.com.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & size-The SEAMO BETTA & LI’L MO BETTA are Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver freshair on every breath. Sumo Mask & Bigfoot fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie for 92

the week (Reg. $29). Located in Kona off Ali’i Drive behind Huggo’s (808) 329-0770 or at The Shops at Mauna Lani on the Kohala Coast (808) 885-9499.

All Islands 8-5 every day. Online at snorkelbob.com.

ZIPLINE KOHALA ZIPLINE

Join us on a Big Island zipline tour like no other.

The Kohala Zipline Kohala Canopy Tour traverses a forested, stream-rich land on the northern tip of the Big Island of Hawai‘i, an area known since ancient times as Halawa. With soaring platforms built into majestic trees, accentuated by arching suspension bridges and progressively longer zip lines, our course promises the best of Hawaii zipline adventure tours, serene and thrilling at once. Whether you are a zipline enthusiast or a first-time outdoor adventure seeker, you’ll find in the Kohala Canopy Tour an unforgettable experience.

Call (808) 331-3620 or visit kohalazipline.com.

ATTRACTIONS KONA-KOHALA AHU‘ENA HEIAU

A thatched shrine built and restored on an artificial island in Kamakahonu (Eye of the Turtle) is guarded by wooden images (ki‘i). King Kamehameha I settled here in 1812 and maintained his royal residence until his death in 1819. King Kamehameha dedicated Ahu‘ena Heiau, a temple of prosperity, to Lono, god of fertility.

Significant history was made on the royal compounds when Liholiho, who became King Kamehameha II dined with the great queens Keopuolani and Ka‘ahumanu breaking one of the most rigorous kapu. This bold act brought on the abandonment of the ancient kapu system and opened the door to Christianity. Located near Kailua Pier 75-5660 Palani Rd. Free. Call (808) 329-2911.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Two-story Victorian estate made of lava, koa wood and coral mortar was commissioned by Hawai‘i’s second governor John Adams Kuakini and built in 1838. The palace served as a vacation residence for Hawaiian monarchs until 1914. King Kaläkaua used the mansion in the 1880s as his summer palace. Today it houses a collection of royal Hawaiian relics, beautiful furniture and rare collections. Located 75-5718 Ali‘i Drive.

Open weekdays 9-4, weekends 10-4. Admission is $5.

Call (808) 329-1877 or visithuliheepalace.org.

PU‘UHONUA O HŌNAUNAU

Also known as Place of Refuge, this national historical park served as a safe haven in times of war and was also a place of cleansing for kapu breakers. Wooden images of Hawaiian native gods (ki‘i), temples and heiau on the sacred grounds of the beautiful and serene beachfront sanctuary make this a must-see historical park. Because ancient Hawaiians believed that if the spirit was not fed then it would drift away, kähuna and others left food offerings in the temple. Today with the revival of Hawaiian customs, you may see offerings of food on the

tower (lele) at Hale O Keawe. Picnic tables, fascinating tidepools, sandy sunbathing area and a popular snorkel spot, Two-step, are also nearby. Four miles south of Kealakekua Bay on Rte 160. Open daily 7am to sunset.

Admission is $3-$5. Call (808) 328-2288.

LAPAKAHI STATE HISTORICAL PARK

Travel back in time and walk the self-guided tour through the ruins of an ancient fishing village. Displays show early Hawaiian life of fishing, salt gathering, legends games and shelter. Located off Route 270.

Open daily 8-4. Free. (808) 882-6207.

PUAKŌ PETROGLYPHS FIELD

View hundreds of ancient Hawaiian art form with warriors, surfers, outriggers and numerous themes.

Nearby is Malama Petroglyph Trail. Located off the trail of Mauna Lani Resort off North Kaniku Dr.

PU‘UKOHOLĀ HEIAU

Built by King Kamehameha to honor his family war god, Kü and to fulfill the prophecy of uniting the Hawaiian Islands. Located off Hwy 270 in Kawaihae. Open daily 7:30-4. Free. Call (808) 882-7218.

EAST HAWAI‘I ‘AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK

Includes ‘Akaka Falls, a 442-ft. waterfall that flows spectacularly over a deep gorge into a pool. Kahüna Falls is visible from the loop trail through the park.

Located four miles inland north of Hilo, off Hwy 19.

Open daily 7-7. Free. (808) 974-6200.

BANYAN DRIVE

Celebrities planted banyan trees along this drive beginning in 1933 when hotels were just being built.

Famous people include Babe Ruth, Cecil B. DeMille, President Nixon, President Roosevelt and King George V. Located on Banyan Drive in Hilo.

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It is best to see the spectacular show of red-hot lava flowing into the sea close to sunset off Chain of Craters Road. Also, you can drive the 11-mile Crater Rim Drive past lava fields, steaming craters and forests. Walk through Thurston Lava Tube, a natural tunnel formed when the top and sides of a lava flow hardened and the lava inside drained away. Bring water, flashlight and a sweater. Stop by the visitor’s center for more information and safety. Call (808) 985-6000.

HILO FARMERS MARKET

One of the state’s best farmers markets with more than 120 vendors selling flowers, fresh produce and baked goods. Located on the corner of Kamehameha Ave. and Mamo St. Open Wed. and Sat. from Sunrise to 4 p.m.

KAPOHO TIDE POOLS

A large unique collection of tidepools and spring-fed pools, some volcanically heated, extends approximately 200 yards out into the ocean. It’s a great place for novice snorkelers to explore coral and a variety of fish in the calm water. Avoid the pools that are on private BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures

Come and experience the best Whale Watching, Snorkeling, Sunsets and Scuba Diving along the Kohala Coast!

property, but the Wai‘opae Ponds adjacent to the ocean are public and fine for exploring. Visit during the week; weekends tend to be crowded with locals. Located off Hwy 137, take Kapoho-Kai Rd., left on Kaheka and right on Wai‘opae.

MOKUPAPAPA: DISCOVERY CENTER

This is an educational center on the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands Coral Reef Ecosystem Reserve, the largest conservation area in the United States.

Funded by NOAA, the center has numerous interactive displays, a 2,500-gallon saltwater aquarium and vibrant pictures and video footage of the wildlife in the reserve.

Located at 308 Kamehameha Ave. in Downtown Hilo.

Open to the public Tuesday-Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed on all Federal Holidays. Free Admission! Call (808)933-8195 or visit hawaiireef.gov.noaa/center.

Book your adventure today!

(808) 885-7883

Mauna Lani Sea Adventures 68-1400 Mauna Lani Drive Kohala Coast, HI 96743 maunalaniseaadventures.com

Scuba • Snorkel Sail • Sunset Sail • Whale Watch • Beach Activities

PACIFIC TSUNAMI MUSEUM

Learn about the destructive tsunamis and the details of the 1946 and 1960 that devastated Hilo through photographs, interactive displays and personal accounts from the tsunami survivors. Located at 130 Kamehameha Ave, Hilo. Open Mon-Sat 9-4. Call (808)935-0926.

PANA‘EWA RAINFOREST ZOO

This is the only natural tropical rainforest zoo in the U.S. This 12-acre zoo is home to more than 80 animal species including Namaste’, a white Bengal Tiger. You are invited to picnic in the shade of over 100 varieties of Palm and stroll with Peacocks in the extensive collection of Orchids, Clumping Bamboos and Tropical Rhododendrons. Petting Zoo is open every Saturday 1:30-2:30 p.m. Tiger feeding is 3:30 daily. Open daily 9-4 p.m. except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Free.

Located on Mamaki St. off Hwy 11. Call (808)9599233.

kirk lee aeder photography The Hawaiian Islands

RAINBOW FALLS

The best time to catch a rainbow in the mist of these falls is morning. The falls plummet into Wailuku River gorge. Check out Boiling Pots created by the powerful water over ancient lava beds. Located off Route 200, up Waiänuenue Ave.

Be sure to check out Kirk Lee Aeder’s newest book, Child Of The Storm, the amazing true story of legendary surfer Chris O’Rourke.

WAIPI‘O VALLEY

Valley of the Kings can also be considered earth’s Garden of Eden with breathtaking vistas bounded by 2,000 feet cliffs, spectacular Hi‘ilawe Falls plummets 1,200 feet from Kohala Mountain to the bottom of the valley, fruit trees, taro fields, streams and a crescent black sand beach popular with surfers. The steep and narrow road down the valley requires a four-wheel drive. The one-mile hike can be difficult especially on the climb back to civilization. Commercial transportation permits are limited to four outfits to maintain the pristine environment of one of the state’s most isolated places. Tours are unavailable on Sundays.

Waipi‘o Valley Lookout offers breathtaking views without breaking a sweat. Located off Hwy 240 ~8 miles northwest of Honoka‘a. myhawaiitraveler.com

•Full service digital photography •Experienced in all facets: productions, events, aerials, sports, water sports •Published everywhere, stock images available •Located on Hawaii’s Big Island while serving all of the Hawaiian Islands •Member of Hawaii’s Visitors Convention Bureau Kirk or Nita Aeder: 808-987-6614 aederkla@aol.com www.kirkaederphoto.com PO Box 385155, Waikoloa, HI 96738

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SACRED JOURNEY High in the alpine atop Mauna Kea, a small body of water embodies divine power and great reverence.

WORDS PETER A. THOENE IMAGES ERIC FRANKE

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ven the car has difficulty functioning normally at this high elevation. The 4x4 protests and gasps for air as it chugs along the gravel switchback road. I’m behind the wheel—anxious not to slip too far to the right and tumble down the mountain, anxiously hoping we packed enough warm clothes, anxious to make it to Lake Waiau before the sun sets. My three adventure companions fill the rest of the seats in the car, distributing snacks, and likely harboring the same anxieties as me.

We are driving on the famous road that leads to the summit of Mauna Kea, which at aournd 13,800-feet, is not actually our destination. Our goal is just a bit lower at 13,020-feet. The sacred alpine lake is located here— Lake Waiau. No one in our party has seen her. Our expectations are only limited by our imaginations.

Across cultures and history, mountains and especially mountain tops have been revered as sacred places.

Mount Olympus was the home of the Greek gods.

Mount Sinai was where Moses received the Ten Commandments. Mount Kenya is ‘god’s resting place’ according to the indigenous people of the area. Mauna Kea is no different.

Simply translated, Mauna Kea can mean “white mountain,” possibly in reference to the snow often seen powdering the summit during winter months.

However in native Hawaiian prayers and chants, the mountain can be referred to as Mauna a Wäkea, or “the mountain of Wäkea.” Wäkea (sky father) created the heavens and earth and everything in between, together with Papahänaumoku (earth mother). The kumulipo is a 2,102-line chant describing the origins of the Hawaiian people. The chant explains how from the darkness, came light. From the slime, came the earth. From Wäkea and Papahänaumoku, came a child. Their child was Mauna Kea. Being fully aware of the sacredness of the mountain we are hiking across, I park the car carefully in the lot near the trailhead. My hiking companions and I divide up all the warm clothes we could muster from our closets. Layer upon layer of mismatched sweaters, scarves, and hoodies make us look like a walking yard sale. Nervously checking my watch, I realize we have just about an hour and a half of sunlight left. The roughly one-mile hike would normally be a breeze in this amount of time, but at this altitude, each slow step winds me as if I had been jogging at sea level.

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Carefully crossing the street we enter into the Mauna Kea Ice Age Natural Area Reserve. This reserve is part of the statewide Natural Area Reserve System, or NARS. Established as an effort to keep large swaths of land as untouched as possible, these 21 reserves across five islands contain some of the rarest endemic plants and animals in Hawaiÿi—many on the edge of extinction. Eight NARS areas are on island, though one has been closed since summer 2007 due to a volcanic eruption. The rest contain trails that can lead you from arid coastal plains, to sopping wet forest floors, to the windblown alpine desert of Mauna Kea. The jewel of the Mauna Kea Ice Age NAR, Lake Waiau, sits somewhere above the rust red rocks in front of me, somewhere behind the blinding rays of the sinking golden sun. I sure hope I packed my headlamp.

As we all scuffle along the rocky trail, it’s hard to believe any life at all thrives at this altitude. The temperatures plummet at night, and the often hurricane force winds can howl relentlessly. The perfect setting, it seems, for nothing but lifeless rocks. As it turns out the rocks and the wind provide an ideal habitat for the wëkiu bug. Found nowhere else in the world except on Mauna Kea, the flightless wëkiu has adapted over time to feed on insects that are blown up the mountain and die amongst the sharp lava. The very blood in their tiny bodies contains a sort of “antifreeze” that allows them to live in the shivering temperatures. I can only speculate that 96

the early Hawaiians who climbed Mauna Kea would have longed for a similar element in their blood. As it turns out, Hawaiians had been climbing to the heights of Mauna Kea, long before winter clothing, on a mission much different than ours today. They were looking for rocks. Evidence of these expeditions were recorded in a newspaper in the mid 1800s.

In October 1862, when Dr. William Hillebrand, the director of The Queen’s Medical Center and physician to the royal family, summited Mauna Kea, his party stumbled upon a quarry workshop.

Upon return, The Pacific Commercial Advertiser of Honolulu reported that Hillebrand and his crew had seen a “…cave, in front of which was a pile of stone chips 25 feet high…” These stone chips were sturdy rocks that the Hawaiians were collecting to make adze tools. The adze, with its horizontal blade (as opposed to an axe with a vertical blade), was strong enough to hew out hard native woods to make ocean-worthy canoes.

Today we aren’t looking for adze quarries. Red and grey lava rock looms in front of us. As we continue to climb the slope, we hope that on the other side Lake Waiau will greet us. We inch toward the crest, and are not disappointed. There she is. Sitting in the depression of a cinder cone in the distance. The dark emeraldgreen-gray water of the lake smiles at us in the golden hour light.

Making our way down the hill, before we get too close to the BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

lake, we pause for a moment to practice proper protocol.

Traditionally, an oli komo (chant asking permission to enter a sacred place) is performed to establish a connection to our environment. It acknowledges the sacredness of a place. We are visitors here. It is not our home. If you do not know an oli komo, it is important to pause for a few moments. Engage the five senses. Notice your breathing.

Take stock of your feelings. Feel gratitude for the ability to experience this place.

In the fading light, we get just a bit closer to Lake Waiau to take some pictures and to reflect. The overwhelming feeling is serenity. The anxiety I felt before—about packing enough clothes, about making it here on time, about not rolling an ankle so far away from medical attention—melts away like Mauna Kea’s springtime snow.

The lake, which by world standards is rather small, still somehow has the power to humble. It was in this spirit of humility that many brave Hawaiians would make the pilgrimage to Lake Waiau. Here they would place the umbilical cords of newborns to ensure long life. The water itself is “ka wai kapu o Käne,” the sacred waters of (the god) Käne.

The fading sunlight leaves us no other choice but to turn back, lest we be stranded. We retrace our steps and make it back to the truck as darkness settles. The windchill increases. Hopping into the car, about to flick on our headlights and blast our heater, something stops us dead in our tracks. The lava rocks begin shimmering. The flashlights we thought we might need, pale in comparison to the light of the full moon. Rising in the east, the bright white moon bathes everything around us in reflected sunlight. Normally a mecca for stargazers, only a few stars are visible in the Mauna Kea night sky tonight. As we descend the switchback road in our vehicle, the moon stays in our rearview mirror, so bright and circular it’s almost as if a motorcycle is on our tail. Feelings of thankfulness, and feelings of tranquility overcome us. We feel no anxiety whatsoever. Now, the Hawaiian proverb makes perfect sense to me—“Mauna Kea kuahiwi ku haÿo i ka mälie.”

Mauna Kea is the astonishing mountain that stands in the calm.

Before You Go Prepare for extreme winter weather on this hike. The temperatures can drop below freezing and can get ice and snow—even during the summer months. Check the forecast at http://mkwc.ifa.hawaii.edu/forecast/mko/ before heading out. The risk of altitude sickness increases with rising elevation. It is important to be in good health and to acclimate properly. Pack plenty of water. Leave no trace when hiking in NARS areas. Take only pictures, and leave only footprints. myhawaiitraveler.com

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EAST HAWAI‘I

FROM MAJESTIC WAIPI‘O VALLEY TO FIERY KĪLAUEA

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escend in time to historic Hilo and spend the day exploring the beautiful lush gardens, historical museums, tranquil waterfalls, original shops, galleries and restaurants. This charming coastal city by the bay known for its friendliness and diversity of residents receives nearly 130 inches of rain annually making it one of the wettest cities on the planet. Combine all the rain with some sunshine and rich volcanic soil and you have the makings of a tropical wonderland.

In the distant past, Hilo Bay was used as a trading hub for ships of commerce including whaling ships and sugar transportation for early Hawaiians. Today the port is used for a different kind of commerce, tourism. Many visitors aboard the cruise ships come to explore the many attractions in or nearby this resilient little town that has survived two destructive tsunamis in 1946 and 1960. Learn what it was like to endure the deadly storms by visiting the Pacific Tsunami Museum and listen to the stories from the remarkable survivors.

Famous for growing exceptional orchids and other tropical vegetation, Hilo has several botanical gardens to marvel at nature’s beauty.

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Wander through Lili‘uokalani Gardens, a 30acre, Japanese-style garden with pagodas, fishfilled ponds, half-moon bridges and a ceremonial teahouse. Designed to honor Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants, it also offers a picturesque panoramic view of Hilo Bay. Take a stroll down Banyan Drive near the Hilo International Airport where celebrities including Babe Ruth, President Roosevelt and King George V all planted banyan tree saplings beginning in 1933. They have grown into a wonderful canopy providing welcoming shade on a sunny afternoon. Make time on either Wednesday or Saturday to visit Hilo Farmers Market featuring a wide variety of tropical flowers and delectable fruits and vegetables from over 200 vendors from all over the island.

North of Hilo is the Hämäkua District surrounded by views of dramatic elevated coastlines, a stunning emerald jungle, flowing streams and waterfalls cascading down the sides of Mauna Kea. Take the time to visit the quaint towns of Honoka‘a and Laupahoehoe, former plantation towns, where traditional Hawaiian arts and history come alive. A few miles north of Honoka‘a is Waipi‘o Valley, with plummeting

waterfalls intersecting the explosion of lush tropical foliage on dramatic cliffs, it will make your top ten list of one of the most beautiful sights.

The Puna District, south of Hilo, is a land of contrast and the fastest growing district on the island. Open lava fields and lush rainforests where numerous farmers grow everything from tropical plants, macadamia nuts and exotic fruits. Spend a day exploring the wonders of heated tidepools, natural springs, lava tubes, caves, black sand beaches and parks.

Thirty minutes west of Hilo is home to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park with two active volcanoes and Pele, the fiery volcano goddess.

Kïlauea, the world’s most active and most visited volcano, is best visited around sunset. Over half of the 330,000-acre park is designated wilderness and provides unique hiking and camping opportunities. Stop by the visitor center for eruption updates and the all important safety information. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a sweater, flashlight and plenty of water and be prepared to experience one of the most spectacular natural wonders of the world.

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DOWN BY THE BAY Experience an epic day in Hilo town.

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On the misty windward side of the Big Island, Hilo is the gateway to the tropical Hawaiÿi of people’s dreams. Fertile volcanic soil and over 270 days of rain per year provide this part of the island with rich emerald vegetation that envelops you as you explore rural backroads. The rains also feed a rich system of waterfalls and streams, and Hilo is home to one of Hawaiÿi’s longest rivers, the 28-mile-long Wailuku River. Rainbow shades of flowers and fruit punctuate the abundant greenery, from the numerous varieties of hibiscus flowers to the mangoes that drip from trees in the spring and summer. myhawaiitraveler.com

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The town of Hilo is the center of the eastern region of the Big Island as well as the center of the island’s government. It is the largest town on the Big Island with a population of over 43,000, but it maintains a distinctly local atmosphere and an air of independence. It is a laid-back and slow-moving town where many of the shops and restaurants are closed on Sundays. In the historic downtown area, a grid of buildings with facades that harken back to the 1800s and early 1900s give Hilo a frontier feel.

It is believed that the Polynesian settlers first arrived in Hilo around 1100 AD, and the first Europeans came in the early 1800s. During the sugarcane era, settlers came from places such as Japan, China, Portugal, and the Philippines to work in the fields. The amalgamation of these various cultures combined with the natural history of the land to make Hilo what it is today, and provides keen insight into the larger culture of modern day Hawaiÿi.

LOCAL FLAVORS The Hilo Farmers Market in the center of town is a great place to begin an exploration of Hilo. It’s a celebration of all things local where you’ll find fresh produce, flowers, Big Island coffee and honey, and crafts by local artisans.

Beyond the ubiquitous pineapple, this market provides an excellent opportunity to sample unique tropical fruits including rambutan, dragon fruit, and the notorious durian, season permitting. If you’re looking for something more substantial, keep an eye out for vendors selling an assortment of Asianinspired foods with a local flair including musubi and mini bento boxes.

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Saturday when it is open from 6am to 4pm. On these days, you’ll find the most vendors and possibly a live music performance. On the other five days of the week, the market is open from 7am to 4pm and it is a much smaller affair.

Hilo has a variety of popular restaurants including casual eateries and laid-back sit-down restaurants with refreshing tropical cocktails such as Moon & Turtle, and Pineapples Island Fresh Cuisine. Raw fish abounds with the Suisan Fish Market as a popular place for poke, and Takenoko Sushi as the place to go for authentic Japanese sushi.

To indulge a sweet tooth, stop by Big Island Candies for an ample selection of shortbreads, chocolates, and other treats.

About 5 miles south of Hilo, you can take a 3-mile drive through some of Mauna Loa Macadamia Nut Corporation’s macadamia nut orchards, view the operations at their processing plant, and sample the different flavors of macadamias that they offer.

HISTORY AND CULTURE In comparison to the plentiful waterside dining and accommodations you’ll find on the Kona side of the Big Island, you may notice that there is little development along the water’s edge at Hilo Bay. A peek at Hilo’s past reveals why this town keeps its distance from the water. The topography of Hilo Bay strengthens the impact of tsunamis, and Hilo has been hit hard by a few of them.

To share the history of Hilo’s tsunamis and educate the public on tsunami safety, the Pacific Tsunami Museum was created in 1994. It focuses on the most destructive tsunamis of Hilo’s recent history in 1946 and 1960. The museum hopes that by shedding light on these disasters, people will become more informed about how to stay safe during future tsunamis.

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A block away from the Pacific Tsunami Museum is the Mokupäpapa Discovery Center, which delves into the culture, history, and science of the lesser-known Northwestern Hawaiian Islands. The ÿImiloa Astronomy Center is another spot to explore the intersection of natural and cultural history as it makes connections between astronomy and the voyages of early Hawaiian settlers from Polynesia. With galleries dedicated to Hawaiian history as well as special exhibits, Lyman Museum and Mission House provides a glimpse into both the ancient and modern history and culture of Hawaiÿi.

Every spring, Hilo becomes a cultural center for the whole state of Hawaiÿi when it hosts the Merrie Monarch Festival. At this festival, hula dance groups gather from around Hawaiÿi and beyond to compete for the most prestigious honors in hula. The weeklong festival includes a Hawaiian arts fair and ends with a lively parade through downtown Hilo. The 2018 festival is scheduled from April 1 thru 7.

For year-round access to Hilo’s arts scene, visit the East Hawaiÿi Cultural Center. It provides a variety of exhibits, classes, and performances, and it’s the home of the Hawaiÿi Museum of Contemporary Art. NATURAL WONDERS If you’re a fan of waterfalls, Hilo is the right place for you. Just outside of downtown is Wailuku River State Park, which houses Waiänuenue Falls, more popularly known as Rainbow Falls. On a clear morning when the sun shines on the waterfall at the right angle, you can spot a rainbow in the mist. When you’re done admiring the waterfall, a short walk up the steps to the left of the Rainbow Falls viewing area leads to a majestic old banyan tree.

To further explore Wailuku River State Park, head up the road to Peÿepeÿe Falls and the Boiling Pots, a series of pools created by lava formations that look as though they are boiling after heavy rains.

Visitors are advised to stay out of the water in all parts of Wailuku River State Park as currents are strong and there are hidden lava tubes under the surface of the water.

About 11 miles north of Hilo off of the Old Mämalahoa Highway is ÿAkaka Falls State Park. At 442 feet, ÿAkaka Falls is one of the taller waterfalls in Hawaiÿi. It is easily accessible via a short 0.4-mile paved loop trail that takes you through lush vegetation along the way. At the viewing area, you’ll find a spectacular vantage point that provides a full view of the waterfall as it dramatically plunges into the gorge below.

At the end of a secluded winding road between ÿAkaka Falls and Hilo is Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. This extensive 17-acre garden overlooks Onomea Bay and houses over 2,000 species of plants from around the world including varieties of ginger, orchids, palm trees, and hibiscus. With its abundant tropical plants, a waterfall inside the park, and sweeping ocean views, it is a wonderful culmination of the diverse and vibrant beauty that Hilo has to offer. myhawaiitraveler.com

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SAND + SURF KOHALA ‘ANAEHO‘OMALU BEACH (A-BAY)

A-Bay is a lovely, crescent beach with salt-and-pepper sand ideal for sail boarding, windsurfing, swimming and catching a perfect sunset. Palm trees separate the Pacific from the ancient fishponds and petroglyph fields. The water is usually calm so it makes a good family beach. You can walk south on a path upon entrance of the beach to find more private white sand beaches. Equipment rental, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Waikoloa Beach Dr across from the Kings’ Shops. Follow signs to beach.

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Splendid large white sand beach with clear turquoise water is great for swimming, snorkeling and body boarding. See Maui’s Haleakalä across the big blue Pacific. It’s crowded on the weekends and shade is scarce so plan accordingly. Be careful of the strong rip currents. Lifeguard, picnic areas, snack stand, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 adjacent to Häpuna Beach Prince Hotel with plenty of parking spaces. myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUNA‘OA BEACH

A nationally-ranked beautiful, white sand crescent beach fringed with palms and naupäka is a great place for swimming and snorkeling due to the gradually sloping sandy bottom, except during heavy winter surf.

Get there early since public parking passes are limited.

Lifeguard, restrooms and showers are available.

Located through the entry gate to Mauna Kea Beach Resort off Hwy 19.

KA‘ŪPŪLEHU BEACH

Beautiful scenic white sand beach, with clear, calm water and resting sea turtles. There are fantastic tidepools and a breakwater in front of the hotel making it a great place to swim. Restrooms and showers are available. Located through the gate to the Four Seasons Resort Hualälai off Hwy 19.

KĒŌKEA BEACH PARK

Swim with extreme caution since this charming secluded rocky beach park with its cliff-rimmed cove and green lawn lined with palm trees is often plagued by high wind and high surf. Spearfishing and fishing are excellent, but swimming can be hazardous.

Camping, picnic areas, restrooms and showers are

available. Located off Hwy 270, near Pololü overlook about 6 miles past Häwï. Follow the sign onto the curvy road ~1 mile; past the cemetery.

MĀHUKONA BEACH PARK

Former shipping port for the sugar industry is now littered with underwater debris making this quiet beach park a great snorkeling site. The once useful machineries now lying at the bottom of the sea can easily be seen through the clear water. Swimming can be dangerous due to the heavy surf and no sandy beach for entrance (there’s a ladder off the old dock).

Camping, restrooms and showers are available.

Located off Hwy 270 north of Koai‘e Cove State Underwater Park between mile markers #14 and #15.

SPENCER BEACH PARK

Nice sandy white beach is great for swimming, snorkeling and picnics year-round. It is popular with families due to the reef-protected, gently sloping sandy bottom. Volleyball and basketball courts, camping, restrooms, and showers are available. Located off Hwy 270, ~ 1 mile uphill of Kawaihae Harbor within walking distance of Pu‘ukoholä Heiau.

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WAIALEA BAY OR “69” BEACH

Named for the utility pole marker, this is a lovely white sand beach with crystal clear blue water great for swimming and snorkeling due to its sandy bottom and gradual drop off. Snorkeling is great around the rocky outcropping inside the bay, but the best snorkeling is in the southern portion where depths range from 10 to 30 feet. Mostly the water is super clear, but periodic freshwater invasion by an intermittent stream reduces surface visibility. Exercise caution during the winter months due to high surf. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 ~5 miles south of Kawaihae, south of Häpuna Beach. Turn onto Puako Beach Dr., next take first right onto Old Puakö Road and park between pole #71 and #72.

NORTH KONA KEKAHA KAI STATE PARK

A 1,642 acre coastal state park with some of the best beaches on the island. Mahai‘ula Beach is an exquisite white sand beach great for swimming and snorkeling in the well-protected bay. About a 30-minute walk north of Mahai‘ula Beach is Makalawena Beach, one of the most stunning beaches on the island, with silky white sand and beautiful crystal clear turquoise water with sand dunes and trees as a backdrop and shoreline made up of intricate coves. Located ~2 miles north of Kona International Airport off Hwy 19 between mile marker #90 and #91, take rough 1 ½ mile road to beach.

KUA BAY BEACH PARK

Gorgeous, pristine white sand beach great for swimming is part of the Kekaha Kai State Park.

Restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 19 across West Hawai‘i Veteran’s Cemetery ~5 miles north of the Kona Airport.

HONOKŌHAU BEACH

Long, narrow strand of white sand beaches north of the harbor with several protected pools bordered by a lagoon is excellent for swimming and snorkeling.

Ai‘opio Beach is a sandy beach with crystal clear water and green sea turtles north of the harbor with protected swimming areas and ‘Alula Beach is a small white sandy crescent beach south of the harbor offering good snorkeling and offshore scuba diving.

Kaloko Beach has great snorkeling with sea arches.

The beaches are part of the Kaloko-Honoköhau National Park located off Hwy 19. Take turn onto Hohoköhau Small Boat Harbor or visit the park headquarters between mile marker #96 and #97.

OLD KONA AIRPORT PARK

The beach has a sandy inlet with tide pools.

Snorkeling and diving are good. Be careful of sharp coral and lava rock when entering the water. Picnic area, tennis courts, jogging path, restrooms and showers are available. Located at the north end of Kuakini Rd off Hwy 19.

WĀWĀLOI BEACH PARK

Fascinating collection of tide pools and sandy beach is a great spot for kids and for exploring nearby secluded beaches. The beach is protected by a natural lava barrier for enjoyable swimming. Pine Trees, a popular surf spot, is nearby; swimming is not recommended.

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available. Located off Hwy 19 north of Kona Airport close to mile marker #94; follow signs for Natural Energy Lab.

SOUTH KONA HO‘OKENA BEACH PARK

Grey sand beach good for swimming, snorkeling and bodysurfing. Water shoes are recommended for this beach. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 past 101 mile marker near Place of Refuge; follow signs.

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

Salt and pepper beach fringed with palms is most popular for swimming, snorkeling and fishing. This dark sandy beach is one of the best spots for snorkeling on the island with an abundance and variety of colorful reef fish and sea life. Beware of high surf and rip currents. Picnic area, restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. next to mile marker #5.

KAMAKAHONU BAY

The name means “eye of the turtle”. The beach is a sliver of white sand that is popular with families for swimming, snorkeling and kayaking. Located next to King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel adjacent to busy Kailua Pier on Ali‘i Dr.

MILOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Tidepools and patches of beach with protecting reefs make for great swimming and snorkeling. Near an ancient fishing village destroyed by lava flow in 1927

alive with old traditions. Picnic areas, restrooms and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 ~33 miles south of Kailua near mile marker #88.

NĀPŌ‘OPO‘O BEACH PARK

Located in Kealakekua Bay Marine reserve where spinner dolphins swim close to shore, spectacular for snorkeling, diving and boat tours in the clear, calm pristine bay. Colorful reef fish are plentiful in the welldeveloped reef. Black rocky beach with a steep incline makes ocean access risky, however there is a short pier at the left side of the parking lot. Across the bay, a 27foot white obelisk represents where Captain Cook was killed in 1779. Located off Hwy 11; exit Kealakekua Bay just south of milemarker 111. Beach is at the end of Näpö‘opo‘o Rd., turn right at the end of the road.

LA‘ALOA BEACH PARK

a.k.a. Magic Sands, White Sands or Disappearing Sands because the beach disappears during high surf months and returns in the spring. Gets crowded with body and board surfers. One of the best surfing spots is just north at Banyans. Restrooms and showers are available. Located on Ali‘i Dr. ~ 4 ½ miles south of Kailua.

HĀMĀKUA KOLEKOLE BEACH PARK

Fabulous place to picnic, fish and explore the underthe-bridge park with abundant tropical foliage and waterfalls. The Kolekole stream is fed from ‘Akaka Falls and flows into the ocean. Do not attempt to BIG ISLAND TRAVELER

You must have a relaxing soak or a swim in this clear, warm 95 degrees half-acre pond surrounded by palms and fed by thermal freshwater springs mixed with seawater. The pool is volcanically heated and is easily accessible by ladders. Snorkeling is allowed in the pool. There is a small inlet connecting the pond to the Pacific. Picnic tables, grills and restrooms are available. Located on Hwy 137, SE of Pähoa town.

KEHENA BEACH PARK

Lovely black sand beach with coconut and ironwood trees offers shade and nice backdrop. Swimming can be rough because of the strong rip currents, but it’s a great place to watch dolphins and turtles. The secluded location of the beach also draws nude sunbathers. Located off Hwy 137 about 5 miles south of MacKenzie State Recreation Area, park by other cars and take the well-worn path to beach.

GREEN SAND (PAPAKŌLEA) BEACH

Green crystals sparkle like jewels in the sun next to a magnificent turquoise sea in this unusual, most beautiful crescent beach formed during an early eruption of Mauna Loa. Swimming can be dangerous and there are no facilities, but once you kick off your tennis shoes and have a refreshing soak, you will appreciate the awesomeness of nature’s gift. Take Hwy 11 to South Point Rd in Ka‘ü and go south 12 miles. From here, continue NE on the dirt road to the boat launch and hike the final two miles to this majestic beach.

MACKENZIE STATE RECREATION AREA

swim at the mouth of the river or enter the ocean at this spot because the rough, strong currents and rocky bottom makes it dangerous. Restrooms, showers and picnic areas are available. Located off Hwy 19 about 12 miles NW of Hilo between ‘Akaka and Umauma Falls.

LAUPĀHOEHOE POINT BEACH PARK

Swimming, snorkeling and surfing can be good, but heavy surf makes it dangerous at times. Site of the 1946 tidal wave offers good fishing and beautiful park. Picnic areas, camping, restrooms, showers and electricity are available. Located ~1 mile off Hwy 19 down a well-marked twisting road.

PHOTO COURTESY: KIRKAEDERPHOTO.COM

HILO COCONUT ISLAND BEACH PARK

Local family favorite for swimming, fishing, picnicking and tide pools. Shallow pools with sandy bottoms make this beach keiki (kid) friendly. Nice shade provided by coconut and ironwood trees. Located next to the Hilo Hawaiian Hotel on Banyan Drive, cross the footbridge.

JAMES KEALOHA BEACH PARK

Good snorkeling, swimming, surfing, spearfishing and throw-netting. Best to swim and snorkel on the east side of the beach since it’s more protected than the west side, which can be rough with strong currents during high surf. Picnic areas, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19, ~3 miles east of Hilo. myhawaiitraveler.com

HONOLI‘I BEACH PARK

Sandy beach is popular local spot for surfing and boogie boarding on the eastern coast. Strong surf makes swimming difficult. Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Hwy 19 at Alae Point.

LELEIWI BEACH PARK

Scenic park with series of inlets, coves and tide pools. It’s a good place to scuba dive. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~4 miles east of Hilo.

ONEKAHAKAHA BEACH PARK

Good family beach with a protected, white sand beach and tidepools. Picnic pavilions, restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~3 miles east of Hilo.

RICHARDSON OCEAN PARK

Black sand beach fringed with coconut palms and ironwood trees. Lava outcroppings give swimmers somewhat protection and makes for good snorkeling.

Restrooms and showers are available. Located off Kalaniana‘ole Ave. along the water ~5 miles east of Hilo.

REEDS BAY PARK

Banyan-lined cove offers excellent swimming in calm waters, but freshwater spring from the bottom keeps the water cold, a.k.a. the Ice Pond. Picnic areas, restrooms, showers, and camping are available.

Located at the end of Banyan Drive.

Beautiful 13-acre coastal park located in a breezy, cool ironwood grove along a rocky coastline. Small sea arches and lava tube openings are visible along the coastline cliffs. Swimming is not recommended due to the sea cliff that borders the park, but good shore fishing exists. Beware of occasionals high waves that break on the ledges. Picnic tables, camping and restrooms are available. Located off Hwy 137, 9 miles NE of Kaimü.

PUNALU‘U BLACK SAND BEACH PARK

Palm trees line this inviting lagoon where green sea turtles rest on the black sand, good swimming beach and easily accessible. Near the boat ramp at the northern end of the beach lie the ruins of a heiau and a flat sacrificial stone. Restrooms and camping are available. Nearby is Ninole Cove, a small beach with a grassy area and lagoon good for swimming. Located on Hwy 11, 27 miles south of Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

WHITTINGTON BEACH PARK

Picturesque scenic park rich with vibrant colors and history. Not much of a beach, but a great place to take photographs and explore the stunning views of the park and the wharf built in 1883 to move sugar, then destroyed by the 1946 tsunami. Swimming is not recommended in the ocean due to strong currents, high surf and rocky shoreline. Fishing is popular with the locals on the weekends. Picnic area, restrooms, electricity and camping are available. Located off Hwy 11 across from the abandoned sugar mill.

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CALENDAR

ISLAND EVENTS ONGOING FREE TUESDAY TROT: 5K FUN RUN & WALK (Tuesdays) - Each Tuesday throughout the year anyone can join Historic Kailua Village’s Tuesday Trot 5K Fun Run and Walk. Big Island Running Company coordinates non-competitive free weekly fun runs, which begins at their Aliÿi Drive store location at 5pm, turn around at Makaeo Pavilion (Old Airport), and return to the point of origin. Visitors, residents, children, anyone and everyone are invited to join the community camaraderie and help promote active, healthy lifestyles. Contact Melissa (808) 327-9333.

KINGS’ SHOPS FARMERS MARKET (Wednesdays) - In close proximity to many of the Kohala Coast resorts, this boutiquestyle farmers market is convenient for the communities on the western coast of the island.

Located throughout the Kings’ Shops in the Waikoloa Beach Resort, purchase fresh and affordable produce in a tropical setting. Sample fresh and dried fruits from Hawaiian Rainbow Farms, or purchase some of their handcrafted Hula Hands natural soap. Palani French Bakers features classic and crusty French baguettes, brioche, artisanal breads and fresh pastries. It’s the perfect breakfast option that pairs excellently with the flavors of Honomu Jams & Jellies; try their organic goods made with all natural ingredients from over 100 varieties of fruit and vegetables. Once you’ve enjoyed all the market

has to offer, take advantage of great dining and shopping at the various restaurants and retailers from trendy boutiques to luxury brands at the Kings’ Shops premier shopping center. Farmers Market is open from 8:30am to 2:30pm.

TWILIGHT AT KALAHUIPUA‘A (Saturdays, closest to full moon) - Each month when the full moon rises, Mauna Lani hosts an enchanted evening of storytelling and entertainment on the lawn of the resort’s oceanfront Eva Parker Woods Cottage. Join Mauna Lani’s Cultural Historian, Danny Kaniela Akaka, as he leads guests in sharing stories, songs and dance. The event perpetuates the traditional folk art of storytelling and provides a chance to experience the true Aloha Spirit. The oceanfront location is the piko (spiritual center) of the resort’s ancient Hawaiian fishponds, making it the perfect venue under the full moon. Twilight dates are subject to change.

5:30pm. Free. Please contact Mauna Lani Concierge at (808) 881-7911 to confirm date.

KOKUA KAILUA (Monthly) - One Sunday each month from 1pm to 6pm, oceanfront Aliÿi Drive along scenic Kailua Bay in Historic Kailua Village becomes a festive pedestrian-only walkway and marketplace. Enjoy free music, artists, and friendly merchants for great shopping and delicious dining. At 4pm, there is free Hawaiian entertainment on the lawn at Huliheÿe Palace honoring Hawaiian royalty. Bring your own mat or chair and they will be checked for free while you stroll Aliÿi Drive. Shop, dine, and buy local!

Call (808) 936-9202 or visit historickailuavillage. com.

SANCTUARY OCEAN COUNT (Jan. 27, Feb. 24, Mar. 31) - Please join the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Foundation to count whales!

The community project involves counting the number of whales that can be seen around the islands and recording their behavior. Not only has this proven to be a fun volunteer activity for residents and visitors, but it also helps to provide important population and distribution information on humpback whales in Hawai‘i. If you are interested in participating in the annual Sanctuary Ocean Count Project or want to learn

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more about volunteering and to register, get details at sanctuaryoceancount.org.

JANUARY WAIMEA OCEAN FILM FESTIVAL (Jan. 1-9) – Guests will surely enjoy awardwinning films, breakfast talks, Q&A filmmaker sessions, art and exhibits focused on an understanding of the ocean. The event will be held at various Waimea and Kohala Coast venues including Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, The Fairmont Orchid and Four Seasons Resort Hualälai. For more information and schedule, please visit WaimeaOceanFilm.org or call (808) 854-6095.

AN EVENING WITH JAKE SHIMABUKURO (Jan. 12) - Hawaii Performing Arts Festival presents An Evening with Jake Shimabukuro at the Fairmont Orchid Hotel ballroom at 7pm on the Kohala Coast. Tickets available at HawaiiPerformingArtsFestival.org or (808) 3337378.

MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC CHAMPIONSHIP AT HUALŪLAI (Jan. 18-20) – The PGA TOUR Champions tournament is a competition among all official event champions of the past season and features many golf legends. The golf competition is held on the beautiful Hualälai Golf Course, designed

by Jack Nicklaus, while tournament guests enjoy the renowned Four Seasons Resort Hualälai at Historic Kaÿüpülehu. Visit hualalairesort.com.

FEBRUARY WAIMEA CHERRY BLOSSOM HERITAGE FESTIVAL (Feb. 3) - This popular festival held in the community of Waimea in its 25th year celebrates Japanese traditions and culture and includes cherry blossom viewing, music, mochi pounding, tea ceremonies, demonstrations, exhibits, crafts, entertainment, ethnic foods, bonsai, origami, a farmers market and visiting performers and artisans from Japan. Various highlights throughout the town, 9am to 3pm. Look for pink banners identifying multiple sites sprawling throughout the town. For additional information, contact (808) 961-8706.

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MARCH KONA BREWERS FESTIVAL (Mar. 10) – The Kona Brewers Festival indulges craft beer aficionados with 72 selections of ales and lagers served up with a wide variety of island-style cuisine from 36 Hawaiÿi chefs.

Breweries from Hawaiÿi and the mainland US will each offer two types of craft brews, offering something for beer adventurers and connoisseurs alike. Top chefs from some of the Big Island’s favorite restaurants will offer their best food pairings, ranging from fresh fish and smoked meats to tropical sweets against a backdrop of passing paddleboards and canoes at the historic Kamakahonu Bay Beach. Live music and entertainment include the mustsee Trash Fashion Show, a performance that highlights creative fashions made entirely from recycled material. Cost is $85 and includes a commemorative event mug, 10 four-ounce brew myhawaiitraveler.com

tasting coupons, unlimited samplings of gourmet cuisine and an afternoon of entertainment. Held at Courtyard King Kamehameha’s Kona Beach Hotel. Tickets at konabrewersfestival.com.

LAVAMAN WAIKOLOA TRIATHLON (Mar. 25) – The Annual Lavaman Triathlon Festival features an Olympic distance 10K-run, 40K-bike and 1.5K-swim open to individuals and relay teams of all ages and abilities, awards party and beach barbeque. Host hotel is Hilton Waikoloa Village, and events are held throughout Waikoloa Beach Resort on the Kohala Coast. For registration or more info, visit lavamantriathlon.com. Volunteers are always needed, and spectators are welcome. Call (808) 329-9718.

APRIL THE MERRIE MONARCH FESTIVAL (April 1-7) - This is the premier cultural event in the Hawaiian Islands. Held each year in Hilo, the festival honors King Kaläkaua, and his contributions to the Hawaiian people. It includes crafts, food, cultural demonstrations, a parade, art exhibits, live music and features three nights of hula competition in the Edith Kanakaÿole Stadium. Hälau (hula schools) come from all the islands as well as some from the continental United States. This unusual competition is about sharing and aloha, a feature of Hawaiian cultural values. Call (808) 935-9168 or visit merriemonarch.com for more information and complete schedule.

All events are subject to change. Check out myhawaiitraveler.com for updates and more events.

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