Kauai Traveler by Traveler Media

U KA A’I TRAVELER myhawaiitraveler.com

KAUA‘I TRAVELER myhawaiitraveler.com

Majestic Nāpali EXPLORING KAUA‘I’S ANCIENT COASTLINE

CULTURAL REVIVAL

RESTORING KE KAHUA o KĀNEIOLOUMA

PARADISE WITH CAUTION

BE SAFE WHILE BEING ADVENTUROUS

STEP WITH CARE

SUMMER 2017

HELP PROTECT NATIVE SPECIES

LOCAL VIBE SPA + STYLE THE BEST BEACHES EPIC ADVENTURES FOOD + DRINK WHAT WE LOVE NOW picture perfect picnics date night guide

Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 Kukuiula Shopping Village (808) 742-2828

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52 CULTURAL REVIVAL Restoring Ke Kahua O Kāneiolouma

50 SOUTH SHORE The Sun-Drenched Coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale Beach

66 PARADISE WITH CAUTION Be Safe While Being Adventurous

70 NORTH SHORE The Majestic and Magical Wonder of Nature 100 EAST SIDE The Royal Coconut Coast 8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i style 16 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Kaua‘i 20 WHY DON'T YOU... Add These to Your Itinerary 32 NĀPALI Exploring the Ancient, Rugged Coastline 40 POINT BREAK The Incredible Life of the Sea Urchin

70 FRAGILE Walk with Care 80 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences 85 PICTURE PERFECT PICNIC Dining with a View Redefined 90 THE HOT SPOT Red Salt 92 CULINARY Q&A Chef Christopher Kim 94 UNCONVENTIONAL SUMMER WINES Broaden Your Wine List 96 DATE NIGHT Your Guide to a Night Out on the Garden Isle

PHOTO COURTESY: KENT CHASTAIN

CONTENTS

24 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I Paradise Found

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

The Shops at Kukui‘ula /// Kapolei Commons /// International Market Place

hawaii inspired Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawaii’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawaii, called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine.

CONTENTS

U KA A’I TRAVELER

THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

Publisher

Kevin Geiger

Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger

Contributors

Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Jon Letman Andrew Walsh Daniel Lane

Copy Editor Joseph Kwak

Cover Image Ian McGuire

myhawaiitraveler.com www.traveler.media Traveler Media PO BOX 159 Kamuela, HI 96743

Copyright©2017 Traveler Media Reproduction in whole or in part without permission from the publisher is prohibited. Traveler Media makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information supplied in this publication. However, due to unavoidable circumstance of change, whether from the forces of nature or manmade, the information is not guaranteed. Traveler Media is not responsible or liable in any way for any loss or damage incurred resulting from the information supplied in any and all forms of media or communications.

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PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LEFT/BOTTOM RIGHT) THE SHOPS AT KUKUI'ULA

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ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

or many travelers, the sunny unspoiled beaches and epic hiking trails are what draw them to our tropical paradise. Whether you’re looking to surf, snorkel, swim, or have a beach picnic in a magical setting (Picture Perfect Picnic, p. 94), there are miles upon miles of striking coastline, well-developed reefs and perfect waves to keep your vacation itinerary full of fun and memorable activities. Keep in mind that although you might see fearless and experienced watermen out in treacherous waves, they know what they are doing and have most likely been doing it since they were walking. The inviting blue waters of Kauaÿi beckons beachgoers year-round, but be safety conscious by taking the time to learn about ocean safety, and choose beaches where lifeguards are present. And, when you hit the trails, be sure to check the weather conditions before you go and be well prepared for your hike with all the necessities, plus let someone know where you are headed and when to expect you back (Paradise with Caution, p. 66). A trip to Kauaÿi isn’t complete without seeing the majestic Näpali Coast. The first time I saw the coastline was by boat. I will never forget feeling so insignificantly small looking at the colossal wonder. It’s impossible not to be completely awestruck by the sheer size and splendor. It is also mindboggling to think that this marvelous wonder exists on a tiny island in the middle of nowhere and took millions of years to shape. Beyond the surreal beauty is a rich anthropological history with fascinating discoveries still being made of the way ancient Hawaiians lived in the verdant valleys growing 6

staples like taro. I was astonished to learn that the legendary Kalalau Trail revered by hiking enthusiasts from all over is part of the path created by the Kingdom of Hawaiÿi to foster trade between Häÿena and the main valleys found in the Näpali Coast back around 1860 (The Rugged, Ancient Coastline, p. 32). Knowing the history and cultural significance of the area makes you appreciate Näpali that much more. Whatever terrain you decide to explore, please do so responsibly and do your part to preserve the forests as many of the flora and fauna are endemic and found nowhere else in the world (Fragile: Walk with Care, p. 70). With plummeting waterfalls, wet forests and jagged verdant peaks, in addition to friendly, reflective residents and alluring culture, Kauaÿi is a destination like no other. Here, you are in nature’s most organic playground. The vibe is laid-back, so take your time and take it easy, and appreciate the gifts of the island. No matter your pleasure, whether embarking on a thrilling adventure to just chilling out on our stunning beaches, this is the place to fulfill your vacation goals. Many happy returns, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler-media.com Editor in Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

CRACK DA NUT

Opening a coconut “Hawaiian-style” is no easy task! This method doesn’t use cutting edge tools like machetes and knives, but relies solely on materials found in Hawaiÿi’s natural environment—a rock, a wooden stake and perhaps a twig or two. The traditional method makes use of one of two common techniques: literally bouncing the coconut on a sharp rock until its outer husk splits or impaling it on a wooden stake using as much brute strength as you can muster. Once the outer husk is breached, repeat one of these techniques to crack the actual nut that contains the coconut water and meat. Look for the three stomas or eyes found on one end of the coconut shell, by piercing one of these with a small stick or twig you may access the refreshing liquid inside, replenishing your energy before continuing the work to get to the meat. Cultural programs hosted at some of the resorts include demonstrations on coconut-opening techniques or you can check out a how-to video on the internet—there are plenty to choose from—to use a more modern-day approach that is much quicker and easier.

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ALIEN TAKEOVER Declared by the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources) as one of only three birds listed on the 100 of the World’s Worst Invasive Alien Species, the common myna is easy to spot around Kauaÿi. The common myna is a large native of Asia and was introduced to Hawaiÿi in 1865 to control plagues of armyworms and cutworms in the sugarcane crops. It subsequently spread the invasive, toxic flowering plant West Indian Lantana. This highly adaptable bird prefers woodland and farmland, but thrives in urban and suburban environments as it can build a nest in any covered nook or cranny. It has a stocky build with a brown body, black head and distinct yellow legs, bill, and eye patch. Found throughout all of the main Hawaiian Islands, they are sometimes kept as pets and well known for their ability to mimic human sounds. 8

LOCAL LINGO

Pidgin originated during the plantation era when Hawaiians, Chinese, Japanese, Koreans, Filipinos, and Portuguese lived and worked together on the sugar and pineapple plantations in Hawaiÿi. As the different ethnicities mixed, so did their languages and Pidgin helped the different groups communicate and can still be heard throughout the state today. One special aspect of Pidgin is the many words used to show close, familial ties between people not related by blood. Listen closely and you will often hear the terms Aunty and Uncle, which are terms of endearment used towards elders, and show the user’s deep respect and esteem towards the recipient. Words like cuz are used for both sexes and implies a close relationship as if the two grew up together like cousins, whereas brah or bruddah is often used as a friendly address towards males. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

DO THE WAVE Avoid injuries and don’t get smashed by a powerful wave coming towards you by just standing there or, worse, turning your back towards it, or even jumping over it if you are able to stand in the water. Instead, learn how to duck dive comfortably and confidently. When a wave is coming towards you, go under the wave before it breaks. If you have a surfboard or boogie board, hold your board by its nose and push it down beneath the oncoming wave, while ducking your head so it follows your board. Start with smaller waves first to get comfortable and familiar with the motion, the undertow and the current. You do not want to be on top of the breaking wave, this is called going “over the falls,” so be mindful of your location and where you begin your descent.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

RED HOT CHILI PEPPER When dining at a local style restaurant, keep an eye out for the chili pepper water, a favorite food topper. This fiery treat is a clear, watery condiment that often contains whole red chili peppers. Go beyond the Ketchup and Tabasco and dash some chili pepper water on local cuisine to accentuate your meal. Be forewarned, chili pepper water does pack some heat. In its simplest form, chili pepper water is comprised of Hawaiian red chilies (similar to Asian red chili peppers), a little salt and water. It is also common for a bit of crushed garlic, ginger and rice wine vinegar to be added to the mix. With a consistency of water and not a sauce, locals often pour chili pepper water into a side dish and sip on the condiment after taking a bite of food. The chili flavor enhances local style cuisine, favored to complement beef stews, Hawaiian barbeque, kĂ¤lua pig, and even poke (cut raw fish) and poi (pounded taro). Whether you choose to top on your food or sip on the side, chili pepper water is a must-try! 12

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LOCAL VIBE

THE PLAYFUL MONK Once upon a time there were three species of monk seals known to inhabit the world’s oceans. In 1952, off the coast of Nicaragua, the last confirmed sighting of a Caribbean monk seal marked the probable extinction of this robust pinniped known as the “sea wolf” to early explorers. The Mediterranean monk seal, one of the most endangered mammals in the world, has a population of fewer than 600 individuals and may soon join the Caribbean monk seals as a distant, but fond memory. The third species, which may turn out to be the last of these unique earless seals, is the Hawaiian monk seal. Often playful, other-times a 400-lb lazy beach bum, these barky natives are found only in the Hawaiian Islands. Sadly, they may soon be found nowhere at all if conservation efforts here in Hawai‘i can’t encourage the 1,100 seals left to regain a healthy, stable population. Monk seals live and feed in the ocean, but spend about one third of their lives on the beach. Suitable beaches are critically important for pregnant mothers who will give birth to a pup and spend at least six weeks continuously on the same beach. The dedicated mother never leaves her pup’s side, not even to feed. Surviving on her stored blubber, she will nurse the pup losing up to 200 lbs. from her 500-lb. frame. Hawaiian monk seals were so named because of their solitary nature and folds of skin that sometimes resemble a monk’s cowl. In Hawaiian, they are known as ‘ïlio-holo-i-ka-uaua, loosely translated, it means “dog (quadruped) running in the rough seas.” If you are lucky enough to see one, please keep your distance and admire from afar. 14

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

MY KAUA‘I NAME

COCO ZICKOS

OCCUPATION

FREELANCE WRITER

HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I

BORN AND RAISED ON O‘AHU AND MOVED TO KAUA‘I 12 YEARS AGO

Favorite beach: Salt Pond Beach. I appreciate the gentleness of the ocean here and the occasional sunbathing companionship of a Hawaiian monk seal. And since it’s located on the West Side of the island, you’re almost always guaranteed sunshine. Favorite pastime/activity: Hiking. Immersing myself in nature reminds me what’s important in life and pushes my reset button. I also love looking for endemic plants and animals. Favorite hike: The Pihea Trail in Köke‘e State Park. Once you get away from the crowds at the lookout, you can really hear the sweet melodies of native birds like the ‘apapane (Hawaiian honeycreeper). Favorite hangout: Waimea Plantation Cottages. I love the old school, historical nature of this property and enjoy walking the grounds or reading a book in one of the hammocks. Everything about this place puts you in a state of relaxation. Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: My länai (porch) in Lïhuÿe is the perfect spot for catching a sunrise. The colors cast in the sky and against Häÿupu Mountain Range make me feel like I’ve woken up in a fairy tale. Po‘ipü is my favorite place for sunset watching—the orange and yellow hues are so spectacular, I’ve seen people stop in their tracks to admire them. Favorite date place: I am a sucker for nighttime beach strolls and stargazing. I also wouldn’t complain if someone treated me to a Silver Falls Ranch horseback riding adventure beforehand. Favorite place to take in the history: Most places on Kaua‘i are steeped in history. Mähäÿulepü Coast, however, offers a rich geological and anthropological history unlike anywhere else on the Islands that I adore. I enjoy exploring the limestone and sand dune studded shoreline and also visiting Makauwahi Cave, which is Hawai‘i’s largest fossil site.

my local faves

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MAKE POI.

Everyone is welcome to participate in Poi Day at Waipä Farm, which happens every Thursday morning from as early as you can rise—5am! It’s not required to get there at 5am, but the earlier you arrive, the more respect you earn from the kupuna (elders) there. Diverse members of the community come together to process cooked kalo into the sticky, lavender-colored staple known as poi. At the end of every volunteering session, bags of poi are packaged to distribute to the kupuna and ‘ohana throughout the island. Lunch is available to the volunteers for helping out. First time volunteers are asked to call (808) 826-9969 to schedule an orientation. Be prepared to work, and in return you will receive an incredibly rewarding experience that connects you to the culture of the island! For more information, visit www.waipafoundation.org/ community_poi.

SWIM WITH THE FISHES. Snorkel in one of the most remote and pristine reefs teeming with a vibrant sea life, many which are endemic to Hawaiÿi such as the curious monk seal, for an amazing snorkel trip of a lifetime. Experience world-class snorkeling in locations that only a few ever get to visit like Lehua Crater off of Niÿihau, the Forbidden Island, and Nuÿalolo Kai on the Näpali Coast. Try Blue Dolphin Charters (808) 335-5553, HoloHolo Charters (808) 335-0815 or Kauai Sea Tours (808) 335-5309.

SIGHTSEE IN A GOLF CART.

Cruise around the magnificent Makai Golf Club in Princeville in the comfort of your own cart and see the magical colors of sunset on the already stunning sights of popular attractions like the Kilauea Lighthouse, ÿAnini Reef, Puff the Magic Dragon, Hanalei Bay and more. The first stop is at Makai Grill where you can fill your cart with refreshing beverages of your choice before you head out on a carefully planned route with cherrypicked stops offering spectacular photo ops! Call Makai Golf Club (808) 826-1912.

GO OFF-ROAD.

Drive through Kauaÿi’s unspoiled backcountry on an unforgettable eco-adventure to hidden waterfalls, splendid scenery, private trails and lots of hidden gems otherwise inaccessible including a working cattle ranch rich with culture and history. Kick up the dirt and feel the wind in your hair as you traverse through the wilderness then cool off in a secluded stream or waterfall on an unforgettable ATV tour. Call Kauai ATV (808) 742-2734 or Kipu Ranch Adventures (808) 246-9288.

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KAUA‘I THE GARDEN ISLAND

IMAGE BY IAN MCGUIRE 24

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

myhawaiitraveler.com

ALOHA

It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that contribute to landing on the top of many traveler's lists. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage. The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i 26

Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours).

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Our experienced guides will lead you through our expansive 3,000-acre trail system on a working cattle ranch, which is full of breathtaking scenery, blockbuster movie hits, cultural history, and Hawaiian legends.

Kauai, Hawaii

NĀPALI THE RUGGED, ANCIENT COASTLINE WORDS COCO ZICKOS IMAGE IAN MCGUIRE

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ature loves showing off along Kauaÿi’s world famous Näpali Coast. Visitors flock to this pristine location every year and marvel at its towering peaks and endless valleys. Few might be aware, however, that the secluded coastline’s anthropological history is as rich as its eye-catching beauty. Archaeologists have been studying this inaccessible locale for years and have made many discoveries regarding the people who once inhabited this area. Evidence of human life is present in every gulch and every “nook and cranny,” says Alan Carpenter, an employee of the Department of Land and Natural Resources who has explored and mapped most of the Näpali Coast State Wilderness Park. Each valley once had its own infrastructure including agricultural, housing, and religious sites. Inhabitants who resided within this traditional ahupuaÿa (division of land from mountains to sea) made use of its natural resources to sustain life. They also likely had their own governing systems with a chief who preceded over each sector. While all valleys along this northwestern coast supported humans, Kalalau was ideal due to its size and depth. It’s not difficult to imagine how this Garden of Eden — which can only be seen by booking an air or ocean tour, or making an arduous 22-mile roundtrip hike — was the center of a thriving Näpali Coast population. How we see it today, however, is vastly different from what it would have looked like hundreds of years ago. The lush, forested wilderness we view now wouldn’t have existed when Hawaiian families lived here. Instead, you would have seen a manicured

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and maintained agricultural system that allowed plenty of sunlight to grow staple crops like kalo (taro), complete with natural irrigation systems. “The evidence for the former cultivated state of the main valley is omnipresent,” says Carpenter. “Anyone who has ever hiked up the valley has traversed dozens to hundreds of traditional taro terraces as they trekked. It’s pretty spectacular.” Other valleys along the Näpali Coast have their own unique characteristics. Nuÿalolo Kai and Miloliÿi, which can only be seen by air or sea, are located on the drier end of the coast and would have produced fewer crops. However, these areas contain more traces of religious complexes called heiau (places of worship). Nuÿalolo Kai was also known not only as a ceremonial center for events including ÿöahi (fireworks) where flaming sticks were launched from the cliffs into the ocean, but is thought to have been a gathering place for activities such as the annual makahiki (ancient festival with sports and religious activities). It’s believed that disease and the appeal of the Western world eventually lured Hawaiians out of the valleys, though it is thought some lived in Kalalau as late as the 20th century. But while these communities have long since vanished, centuries of their presence remain. In fact, the Kalalau Trail is part of a path created around 1860 by the Kingdom of Hawaiÿi to foster trade between the “city” of Hä‘ena and the main Näpali Coast valleys. Western loot like oil was strapped to equines whose keepers would trade the goods for items grown within the valleys like taro, oranges, and coffee.

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One of the most intriguing traces of past life along this path is about mid-way through the trail between Hanakoa and Kalalau Valleys. Named Pöhakuÿau, which means “swimming rock,” it’s the smallest ahupuaÿa along the Näpali Coast with a distinct structure unique to Kauaÿi and only one other location on Hawaiÿi Island. That’s because loÿi (irrigated terraces for taro) were constructed along the top of the steep and narrow gulch rather than at the bottom or sides like the other valleys—akin to the terraced land of Machu Picchu though much different as far as complexity and magnitude is concerned. “It must have been an incredible system,” says Carpenter. And while petroglyphs are extremely rare on the Näpali Coast, this area is the only place they’ve been discovered in abundance. What sets sites like this apart from others in Hawaiÿi is that they remain completely protected and within one of the only districts statewide that is entirely undeveloped—you won’t see any roads or cars here. This is exactly what makes the Näpali Coast so alluring, and why everyone is always blown away by the natural beauty that prevails in this mystical Shangri-La. One of the best ways to gain a comprehensive perspective of this enchanted coastline is by booking a helicopter tour. Though the sound of helicopters aren’t favored too much by hikers attempting to traverse the Kalalau Trail in serenity, these machines have the ability to dart in and out of valleys and practically nestle up to the emerald mountains. Cruising along in a boat is another option. You’ll get an exclusive view of valleys like Nuÿalolo Kai that aren’t available to hikers on the Kalalau Trail. These tours also often involve activities like snorkeling where you get to swim with honu (green sea turtles) and rub elbows with colorful fish. One of the most touted and legendary ways of venturing along this coast, however, is traipsing the Kalalau Trail. It’s also the most dangerous. Before heading out, make absolute sure to check weather conditions as flash flooding poses a serious risk to hikers en route. Rain also makes 36

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PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) KENT CHASTAIN

this trail slippery and you’ll yearn for drier ground once you reach dicey points hugging the coastline that offer no protection from the raging water several hundred feet below. That said, if you’re well-suited for the journey and athletically inclined, this is one of the most spectacular adventures Kauaÿi has to offer. To get here, you’ll need to drive to the end of Kühiö Highway on the North Shore. Please remember to be respectful of kamaÿäina (Hawaiÿi residents) who live here. Plenty of visitors will be making the same venture to Këÿë Beach where the start of the trail is located, and this fact has become wearisome for many of the folks that call this North Shore community their home. It’s best to start early to avoid the crowds, and doing so will also help you find a place to park. Before embarking on your mission, make sure to acquire a permit for camping well ahead of time. Due to the overwhelming popularity of this region, enforcement is more prevalent than ever before. You won’t need a permit, however, if you only plan to hike the two miles to Hanakäpiÿai Beach—a great daylong outing that brings you to a glorious, white sandy shoreline. And while not suitable for swimming, this remote destination is perfect for relaxing while enjoying a delicious and well-deserved meal. Those brave enough to endure the entire 11-mile trek will be rewarded with the kind of peace and calm that was once granted to the communities that lived in these valleys. As you gaze at the ocean and take in the incredible cathedrallike cliffs of Kalalau, you can easily envision what it might have been like to farm taro for your community and sleep under the stars every evening, just as the ancient Hawaiians did many moons ago.

POINT BREAK THE INCREDIBLE LIFE OF THE SEA URCHIN WORDS ANDREW WALSH

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sk any local who has spent time in the water off Hawai‘i what dangers await the unsuspecting swimmer, snorkeler, or surfer and you might think that shark, rip current, or jellyfish are likely responses. But more often than not, you will hear one word—wana! Pronounced as “vana,” this group of sea anemones has caused countless injuries to the exposed extremities of many marine enthusiasts. Part of the family Diadematidae, wana consists of a group of about three different species all characterized by pointy, needle-like spines radiating from a mostly hollow spherical skeleton. Although they are easy to identify with their black coloration standing out against the colorful reef, wana are surprisingly easy to bump into if you are not careful. Some species prefer to live away from the reef in harbors and on vertical surfaces that can make detection even more challenging. Once a hand or leg bumps into them, the organism’s passive spines take a myhawaiitraveler.com

two-pronged attack against your skin. First the long sharp needles cause immediate, intense pain. To add to your experience and discomfort, the urchin’s spines have evolved to easily break off and remain lodged in the unfortunate victim. Next, as if the first barrage of spines was not enough, you may encounter a set of smaller secondary spines with a venomous glandular substance to further add to your misery. Although the pain can be intense and last for up to an hour, the venom from these urchins in Hawai‘i is not poisonous—it just hurts a lot. Keep in mind though that some people have reported stiffness and soreness in adjoining joints for a few weeks after. The good news is that these echinoderms construct their spines mostly from calcium carbonate, the same stuff found in our bones, so your body can readily absorb the leftover spines. If by this point you are thinking what good do these painful creatures bring to your enjoyment of 41

the water, it would be wise to reflect on their role in the reef ecosystem. Most of us enjoy the benefits of a healthy reef ecosystem; and like all creatures, sea urchins have their role in maintaining these beautiful reefs. As omnivores, they will devour just about anything by chewing and scraping with a specialized mouth on their underside called Aristotle’s lantern—named after Aristotle’s accurate description of the “horn lantern” shaped mouth. Mostly, they consume turf algae and macroalgae, helping to keep these plant species from out-competing corals for light. In addition, they provide shelter and homes for numerous smaller creatures. The parasitic sea urchin crab is known to live in the anal sac of these urchins while the commensal shrimp, Holthuis’ urchin shrimp, and the juvenile Dascyllus damselfish are commonly found living among their spines. Sea urchins generally feed at night, moving around on a series of water-propelled tube feet with suckers on the end. These feet may also play a role in providing vision clues to the wana. Although they have no known vision, it is clear that they are sensitive to light and respond 42

to having a shadow cast over them. Scientists have discovered that their feet contain genes similar to those associated with mammalian vision perception. Although they get a bad rap out on the reef, they have provided numerous insights to human’s understanding of the natural world. Under the microscope, they were the first species that demonstrated and proved sperm fertilized the ovum. These advances in developmental biology were made possible because these unique creatures have transparent embryos and eggs. With the most complex immune system of any creature, including humans, sea urchins provide an exceptional model to study immune diseases and developmental disorders. Their unique immune system could be the reason they have such long life spans (up to 100 years!). George Weinstock, American geneticist and microbiologist, said, “They live as long as we do, maybe longer, and thus must protect themselves. So an elaborate set of defense genes would be necessary. What was absolutely unexpected was the finding that they had expanded the innate immunity branch of the immune system.” Humans have KAUA‘I TRAVELER

an acquired immune system, meaning our body has to learn how to attack and destroy invaders when they enter our body. Sea urchins are hardwired to detect foreign bacteria and viruses and begin an attack. There are more tangible and immediate uses for these spiny creatures—you can eat them. The rich creamy roe of the urchins are considered a culinary delicacy in many parts of the world. The ancient Hawaiians also considered eating the gonads of the sea urchins a delicacy. Prepared raw or cooked, they often created special sea urchin condiments using the liquids from inside the creature. Of course, not everyone agreed that these spiny sea creatures were a meal. Hawaiians also believed that the ancestors of their family were embodied in the sacred form of certain living things. For some, the wana were sacred ÿaumäkua (family spirits) and revered for the ancestors they represented. Unfortunately, if you get one stuck in your foot, your first reaction may not be to venerate the intruder. But remember, they aren’t poisonous and you can treat the puncture. First, apply an antiseptic like vinegar and try myhawaiitraveler.com

to pull out any protruding spines carefully (and straight out) with sterilized tweezers. Try not to break them, as they are brittle. Soaking in a very warm vinegar solution will help dissolve the spines since it’s made of calcium carbonate—the same substance an eggshell is made of (recall the naked egg experiment). You should soak the effected region in the vinegar mix a few times a day until the spines dissolve. Keep in mind that the spines can emit a purple/black dye into the skin that looks menacing, but isn’t. Within about three weeks your body will most likely have ejected all the spines, but you need to keep an eye on any deeper ones that could cause an infection. Painkillers and anti-inflammatory meds can help in the beginning; but if an infection sets in, you need to visit a doctor for proper treatment, which will most likely include antibiotics. Do your best not to curse these innocent attackers even if you find yourself pulling spines out again six months later. Try to remember that these defenses are just another incredible aspect of a truly unique marine organism. 43

STYLE

ISLAND STYLE

Limited edition, fine Italian patent leather handbags, made by American artisans with full silk linings. Elena Blue Crocodile Print Leather with Python Medium Handbag. Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.

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Na Hoku's Waterfall Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold. Located at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops, Po‘ipu Shopping Village or NaHoku.com.

Peace Love World’s fun and exclusive designs featuring the Aloha Tee, Aloha Shorts, and Aloha Hoodie. Luxuriously relaxed and casually elegant, Oasis captures the pleasures of the resort life and the spirit of gracious Hawaiian living. Step into Oasis and allow yourself to be transported into the relaxed, fun, and inviting environment of a beachside cottage. Call (808) 742-8555 or visit shopsofhawaii.com

Kalapani Kai Wave Glass by Hawai‘i craftsman Daniel (left). Exquisite Shell Jewelry made by Maui craftsman Lalepa (below). Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.

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STYLE

ISLAND STYLE

The Golden pearl yellow gold lariat necklace (right) is a Van Balen trademark design. The founder & chief designer Valerie Van Balen has enjoyed creating this particular piece for over ten years. Available also in white gold, this popular design can be customized for you in any South Sea pearl combination of your choice. The diamond hoop earrings (above) are a staple in every woman's fine jewelry wardrobe. With white diamonds set in yellow or white gold, you can enjoy wearing these elegant earrings everyday! Also available in Tahitian black or South Sea white pearls. The pearl cuff bracelet (left) has quickly become a favorite among our elite clients, as well as our staff! This statement bracelet will definitely get noticed. White diamonds in yellow or white gold, as well as South Sea pearls of your choice. Available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort.

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ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING VAN BALEN FINE JEWELRY Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING GRAND HYATT SHOPS The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance. MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur has been making of fine Koa furniture and home furnishings longer than any company in Hawaii. It also features beautiful personal accessories made with its own private stock of Koa from the Big Island, including the only solid Koa watches, Koa sunglasses, Koa-tungsten rings for a shine that lasts forever, and Koa iPhone/iPad covers. Martin & MacArthur has the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, Hawaiian feather lei, canoes and weapons. Also be sure to check out the award-winning contemporary sculptures by Rock Cross. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula. myhawaiitraveler.com

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ValVanBalen.com THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA On the sunny south shore of Kaua‘i, nestled in the renowned resort playground of Po‘ipü, The Shops at Kukui‘ula is Kaua‘i’s premier shopping, dining and fine art destination. The Shops at Kukui‘ula features a combination of internationally and regionally recognized merchants and fine boutiques with one of a kind items. Here you will find designer originals, casual resort and beachwear, slippers and sunglasses, as well as beauty products, jewelry and other gifts which are unique to Kaua‘i. Shops include national brands and regional favorites such as Tommy Bahama, Malie Organics, Sunglass Hut, Mahina, Poipu

Surf, Quiksilver, Reyn Spooner, Crazy Shirts and Blue Ginger. The Shops at Kukui‘ula is also home to extraordinary galleries featuring a unique collection of fine art originals from Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i, as well as revolving exhibits of contemporary art, nationally recognized landscape art photography, sculpture and art objects, and a unique collection of art jewelry and handcrafted items. Galleries include the internationally acclaimed galerie 103, Halele‘a Gallery, Martin & MacArthur, Red KOI Collection, aFeinberg Gallery, Palms Gallery, Latitudes Fine Art Gallery and Scott Hanft Photography. For more information, visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. 47

STYLE

ISLAND STYLE

14k gold necklace set with an Australian "pin fire" Crystal Opal and diamond accent (above). Sterling silver hand hammered double drop earring with chain link (above, right). 14k gold ring set with a rare Green Tourmaline and princess cut diamonds (right). Available at Grande's Gems at the Kauai Marriott Resort or The Shops at Kukuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ula.

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SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E GRANDE’S GEMS Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 and our newest location at The Shops at Kukui‘ula (808) 742-2828, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com. MENS HARDWEAR Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com. NA HOKU An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. REAL ESTATE HŌKŪALA Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve myhawaiitraveler.com

gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler. KUKUI‘ULA Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart

of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (808) 201-0380 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com. YVONNE SUMMERFIELD Come discover Kaua‘i real estate with Kaua‘i's Only 8 Time Top 100 Realtor and you'll discover an island paradise. Yvonne specializes in residential real estate sales throughout Kaua‘i, including luxury homes and estates, oceanfront condos, resort & second home properties, vacation rental properties and land parcels. For exceptional representation call Yvonne Summerfield at (808) 346-7251 or visit YvonneSummerfield.com.

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DESTINATIONS

THE SUNNY SOUTH PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON

tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But 50

if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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CULTURAL

REVIVAL RESTORING KE KAHUA O KĀNEIOLOUMA

WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE/OPPOSITE) KĀNEIOLOUMA

It’s hard to picture what Poÿipü was like prior to hotels, roads, and shopping centers. Ke Kahua O Käneiolouma (the Käneiolouma complex), however, makes it possible to imagine. Located in the Kona moku (district), the historic site sits at the intersection of Poÿipü Road and Hoÿowili Road—the same route that takes you to Poÿipü Beach. Originally a 26-acre Hawaiian village dating back to at least the mid-1400s, 13 acres remain protected and intact, thanks to the hard-working effort of a group of volunteers caring for the site, Hui Mälama O Käneiolouma. Hawaiians once lived in harmony with the land in this self-sufficient village that lies within the Köloa ahupuaÿa (section of land from mountains to sea). It’s situated in the heart of Poÿipü and you can’t miss the four tall kiÿi (statues) that preside over the area, keeping guard of the sacred site. They represent the four corners of Honua, or the pillars in ancient Hawaiian astronomy, with each statue representing one of the Hawaiian gods: Käne (god of sky and creation), Kü (god of war and male pursuits), Lono (god of peace, rain and fertility), and Kanaloa (god

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of ocean). But they also depict a metaphorical, watchful eye that’s always protecting the historic space—the kind that gives you goosebumps and makes you realize just how special this place was, and still is, to Hawaiians. What really sets this place apart from what you generally see on the South Shore today is that the people who once lived there, estimated to be around 10,000, placed great value on the ÿäina (land). “Water is just like gold; even rocks,” says Rupert Rowe, who has been part of the restoration project since the 1990s. Everything Hawaiians used from ti leaf “plates,” to tools like pöhaku (rock) poi pounders were made from the earth. “The past was all about organic,” says Rowe. “Everything they used was put back into the ground.” Stewardship of the land was important to Hawaiians living at sites like Käneiolouma. They even cultivated food by using a system harnessing the lay of the land. They were able to naturally craft above ground irrigation channels that allowed them to grow produce like kalo (taro). “By caring for the land (mälama ÿäina), the land gives back to you,” says Rowe.

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“Understanding one’s past, then you can have one’s future,” says Rowe. “Because the past will make the future come to

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE/CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LT) DAVE WELLMAN; KĀNEIOLOUMA; KAREN WELLMAN; JIM AIKMAN

you. The future cannot function without the past.” And the land has certainly given back to those responsible for preserving and maintaining the historic grounds. Some 1,000 native plants, put in place by the nonprofit’s volunteers, for example, are flourishing. “I was surprised how the native trees took to this place,” says Rowe. And plants aren’t the only thing that’s flourishing here. Last year, walkways and interpretive signs, created in Hawaiian and English, were placed on-site so that visitors can learn about the village and culture. On the first day the signs were unveiled, Rowe sat across the street and counted some 200 people who stopped by specifically to check out the unique sliver of Kauaÿi’s past. An estimated 150 to 400 people have visited every day since. “They can feel in touch with the land,” he says. The hui (organization), established in 2009, that regularly upkeeps the area, initially had what seemed like an impossible feat to overcome. Before they started work, you wouldn’t even have known the place existed, as it was hidden by an onslaught of overgrown invasive weeds. But years of perseverance by the hard-working team, slowly uncovered a once-hidden gem. Everything they’ve unveiled is worthy of a stop, but what makes this spot even more worth the pause is that it’s considered one of the only intact makahiki sporting arenas in the state. The Makahiki Festival is a traditional celebration that ties into the Hawaiians’ appreciation for the land’s gifts. Lasting about four months beginning in October, it was a period of time when warfare was kapu (forbidden) and Hawaiians commemorated the earth’s bounty by participating in feasts, festivities, and games. As you stand above the complex, it’s easy to picture the large crowds of Hawaiians that would have been drawn here, cheering each other on and participating in events like ÿöÿö ihe (spear throwing) and hukihuki (tug-of-war). Allowing people to imagine stories of this nature is something that brings Rowe, who calls himself part of the “we” that made the restoration of the cultural site possible, great joy. Encouraged by his friend, Billy Kaohelauliÿi, to participate in 1997, it’s a task he still considers honorable. Prior to accepting his role, however, he made sure to ask for spiritual permission. “Ask that the doors of the past open for you so you can bring the past to the future,” he says. And they’ve remained open to him ever since, as well as a host of other people that continue to invest in the myhawaiitraveler.com

upkeep of the grounds. “You always have people here who are ‘we’s.’ You cannot have an ‘I,’” he says regarding the hui. “An ‘I’ would be a dysfunctional organization; only a ‘we’ can take us forward.” Together, they continue clearing the 13 acres, which also contains the sacred spring of Waiohai, and have refurbished several aspects of the area including assemblage of cultural stones by experienced masons. But their job is far from complete. The next two phases, which Rowe estimates will take another six years, will involve rock wall reconstruction, rebuilding of traditional housing, fishpond and taro patch restoration, an interpretive center, paths through the complex, and cultural activities that will allow people to experience what it might have been like living there hundreds of years ago. The real unique beauty of this project is the educational element. It’s not just a different kind of attraction for people. The purpose once completed is to provide a real living cultural education for young Hawaiians as well as island visitors. Places like this are vital to protecting Kauaÿi’s native culture. Without people like Rowe and Kaohelauliÿi, areas like this risk the possibility of being forgotten. It took the foresight of pioneers such as Henry Kekahuna, who in 1959 knew that Hawaiÿi would change drastically. He laid out a foundation for the restoration of sites like Ke Kahua O Käneiolouma, which he called a, “genuine Hawaiian village.” “Understanding one’s past, then you can have one’s future,” says Rowe. “Because the past will make the future come to you. The future cannot function without the past.” You can’t visit Ke Kahua O Käneiolouma without gaining some kind of knowledge about Kauaÿi’s past. You might also walk away with bona fide gratitude for Kauaÿi’s beauty and the people who once prevailed on the Garden Isle, long before it was known for Mai Tais and kitschy memorabilia. “People come to see Hawaiÿi’s past,” says Rowe. “They all want to learn about Hawaiÿi. They love to come here and understand.” Rowe is happy to be a part of the group that continues to help provide that experience for visitors. “You have to treasure the land that you walk on and understand that what you walk on today will continue tomorrow,” he says. For more information or to make a donation, visit kaneiolouma.org. 55

GOLF

GOLF KAUA‘I Teeing it up on the island of Kaua‘i means negotiating pristine fairways, tropical landscapes and beautiful ocean vistas. But don’t let this natural beauty distract you, as the Garden Isle offers up some of the true tests of the game that will challenge your skills, and concentration. 56

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MAKAI GOLF CLUB

The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.

POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE

Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com.

experienceTroon Golf At the Princeville Makai Golf Club

#3 “Best Courses You C an PlaY ” In HawaII —Golfweek

one of tHe “toP 5 Great Golf settInGs” In tHe u.s. —National Geographic Traveler

808.826.1912

“#65 on a merICa’s 100 Greatest PuBlIC Golf Courses” —Golf Digest, 2015/2016

PRINCEVILLE MAKAI GOLF CLUB IS MANAGED BY TROON GOLF,® THE LEADER IN UPSCALE GOLF COURSE MANAGEMENT myhawaiitraveler.com

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLAND The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 58

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS

Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-toceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Safari Helicopters is family owned and was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Naval Reserves. Voted #1 as the Best Helicopters Air Tour Company on Kaua‘i and People #1 Choice. The first to coin the phrase, “Cadillac of Helicopters” due

to the ASTAR 350B2 helicopter’s luxury comfort and floor to ceiling window front and back for unsurpassed visibility. Featuring the BOSE X noise cancellation stereo headsets and FAA Approved multiple camera system to record a video of the passenger’s actual tour. After over 20 years of service, Safari Helicopters continues to offer FAA Part 135 Certified flightseeing tours on two major Hawaiian Islands – Kaua‘i and the Big Island. Most of our full time pilots are military veterans; have Airline Transport Pilots License (ATPL) the highest level of certification by the FAA. Reservations (808) 246-0136 or 800-326-3356 or safarihelicopters.com.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-5953.

take the leap

on Skyline’s “Plank” zipline

EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS

Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.

KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES

We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.

KOLOA ZIPLINE

Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 742-2734 or visit koloazipline.com.

SKYLINE ECO ADVENTURES

*Some restrictions apply.

Minutes from the sandy beaches of the Po‘ipü Resort area, Kaua‘i’s newest zipline thrills guests with 8 spectacular ziplines that soar over lush mountain valleys. Enjoy sweeping ocean and mountain views, edge-ofyour-seat adventure, and bragging rights with your friends back home! Trust the first and most experienced zipline operator in the U.S. - with nearly 2 million safe zipline crossings on multiple courses, Skyline Eco Adventures utilizes the safest and most proven zipline operational system in Hawai‘i. Visit our retail store at The Shops at Kukui‘ula in Po‘ipü. Call (808) 419-7948 or zipline.com/kauaitraveler for specials.

zipline.com/Kauaitraveler or call 808-419-7948 60

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MULTI-YEAR WINNER!

“Our pilot was terriﬁc and his narration was superb. The whole staff was friendly, attentive and helpful from the minute we arrived for check-in until we waved Aloha.

The entire experience was the

absolute high point of our vacation.” Satisﬁed JHH Customer

Eurocopter AStar “Doors-On”

“Going to Kauai and not taking a helicopter ﬂight is like going to the Sistine Chapel and not looking up.” The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook

Hughes 500 “Doors-Off”

Now all you have to do is decide…

Do we ﬂy “Doors-On” or “Doors-Off”?

808.245.3774 www.helicopters-kauai.com myhawaiitraveler.com

Off-Island Toll-Free: 1.888.245.2001 FAA Part 135 Certiﬁed | 4231 Ahukini Road, Lihue, HI 96766 Tour paths will vary according to weather conditions. Weight Restrictions Apply. 24-Hour Cancellation Notice Required.

ADVENTURE SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS

The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.

HAWAIIAN SURFING ADVENTURES

We provide quality surf instruction in beautiful Hanalei Bay, Kaua‘i, creating the memory of a lifetime. What makes us stand out from the competition? Our surf instructors are lifeguard certified, the lessons include top of the line surf boards and leashes/custom rash guards and our instructors are all big wave riders themselves. Yet, they know how to make sure your experience is fun while you accomplish your goal of surfing. Call us today at (808) 482-0749.

HOLOHOLO CHARTERS

The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.

KAUA‘I SEA TOURS

Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 826-7254 for reservations.

SNORKEL BOB’S

Snorkel Bob Brand masks for every shape & sizeThe SEAMO BETTA™ & LI’L MO BETTA™ are 62

Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver fresh-air on every breath. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.

ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE

The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.

DRY AND WET CAVES

Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.

HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK

More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.

KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE

A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.

KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the twohour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.

LIMAHULI GARDENS

Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.

NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK

The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/fees.html for camping information.

WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE

Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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ADVENTURE EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO

A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park.

KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 8230559.

KEĀHUA ARBORETUM

The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.

ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS

This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.

ROYAL BIRTHSTONES

Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park.

SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT

This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the 64

Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56.

WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK

A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463

LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND

Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.

GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD

The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.

KAUA‘I MUSEUM

With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.

KUKUI O LONO PARK

Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo.

NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 7422623 or visit ntbg.org.

PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK

At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road.

SPOUTING HORN

To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.

TREE TUNNEL

Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.

WAILUA FALLS

A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT

Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area.

KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT

The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.

KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.

MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)

Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.

WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT

The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park. myhawaiitraveler.com

PARADISE WITH CAUTION BE SAFE WHILE BEING ADVENTUROUS WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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aua‘i’s tropical beauty and natural artistry beckons to be explored. Looks, however, can be deceiving. While soaking in the Garden Isle’s landscapes is a must, it’s imperative to take extreme caution before embarking on any nature-filled excursions. Visitors have unfortunately found themselves in dangerous predicaments during outdoor adventures on Kaua‘i simply because they didn’t take the necessary precautions and weren’t fully aware of what they were getting themselves into. So while the ocean might look enticing to jump in, or the jungle alluring enough to make you want to traverse its depths, make sure to follow protective guidelines before heading out. Whether you’re just making a quick jaunt up one of the Sleeping Giant’s trails in Wailuä, slipping into the ocean at Po‘ipü Beach or journeying along the Näpali Coast on the famed Kalalau Trail, please remember to be vigilant about your safety. Number one: always check the weather and ocean forecast. This cannot be emphasized enough, as this is what gets many visitors into trouble, not only in the sea, but also on land. Stormy weather, for instance, can cause turbulent ocean conditions, but even riskier is the fact that it increases the possibility of flash flooding on land. If your adventure entails being near or crossing any kind of waterways like on the Kalalau Trail to Hanakäpiÿai Valley, do not venture there. Even if it’s only raining in the mountains, water rushes downstream and levels can rise in a matter of moments. This is why it’s crucial not to cross any bodies of water if it’s heavily raining, since you may not be able to make your way back. This has been the reason for many rescues in recent years on Kaua‘i, especially along the popular Kalalau Trail. Stunning as this hike may be, it’s not worth putting your life in danger. Opt to wait for clear skies before commencing on this exquisite adventure. As far as ocean conditions are concerned, because Kaua‘i is located on the northwest tip of the island chain, waters are often much more turbulent than the other islands, and they harbor rip currents that can easily carry you away. This means that if you plan to swim, make sure to do so at beaches where lifeguards are present (Anahola, Häÿena, Lydgate, Hanalei Pavilion, Këÿë, Keälia, Kekaha, Po‘ipü, Salt Pond and Wai‘oli). This especially holds true if you’re traveling with keiki (kids) or anyone who isn’t a strong swimmer. Look for any warning flags on the beach and study the conditions before entering the water. It’s also a good idea to swim with a buddy. If you do get into trouble and a lifeguard

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

isn’t on duty, there are safety devices sprinkled across most beaches on the island thanks to volunteers from groups like the Rotary Club. They are called rescue tubes and serve as floatation devices that can be brought to the swimmer in distress until help arrives. If you happen to get caught in a rip current, remember not to fight the current—don’t panic, and swim parallel to the shore, and swim back to land at an angle. If you cannot, then wave for help and try to relax as much as possible until a rescue team arrives. Visitors also get into trouble at the beach while climbing on rocks. Those large boulders at the shoreline might look enticing and harmless, but one large unexpected wave can knock you right off balance and sweep you out to sea. It’s best not to take any risks walking on these slippery shoreline rocks even if you think a better picture is just a step away. Designated trails, however, are one place in nature you can feel free to roam. Nothing beats walking among a rainforest accompanied only by the sound of your footsteps and chirping birds as you meander toward a secluded waterfall. Adventures like this, nonetheless, require plenty of planning with the possibility of needing to make alternative arrangements should the weather take a turn for the worse or someone isn’t up to the physical challenge. Sunscreen, a good pair of hiking shoes, food, plenty of water and ample time are all required to trek most trails around the island. Additionally, if you suffer from any health conditions like asthma or diabetes, make sure to bring your medications. Proper preparation is key and staying on designated paths is important. Rain gear might also be needed for hikes like the Alaka‘i Swamp Trail in Köke‘e State Park or Hanakäpiÿai Falls. Please note that these trails can get dangerously muddy and slick, particularly if it’s been raining for several days. Before embarking on any Kaua‘i adventure, it’s a good idea to get advice from your concierge or someone who lives in the area. They are more familiar with the places you want to explore and can give you some valuable local knowledge to help guide you on your journey. And if you’re traveling on your own, make sure to let someone know where you’re going. Most importantly, if you have any hesitation about doing something, do not proceed. It’s always better to be safe rather than sorry. You don’t have to put your life (or risk the life of a would-be-rescuer) in danger in order to have a wonderful time on Kaua‘i and see spectacular sights. There are plenty of safe ways to soak in all the beauty the island has to offer, so you can return again and again. myhawaiitraveler.com

FRAGILE WALK WITH CARE WORDS JON LETMAN

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

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ne of the great pleasures of visiting Kaua‘i is hiking through a native Hawaiian forest. Owing to its extreme isolation from continental influences, the Hawaiian Islands have become home to more than a thousand plant species over the past million years, which evolved from fewer than 300 founding species. Carried by wind, water and wings, these first plants found their way to the islands as seeds and spores before the arrival of the first human settlers less than 2,000 years ago. Hawai‘i’s first native plants originated from Asia, Australia, the Americas and other Pacific Islands. They evolved in isolation over millennia, free of competition from other more aggressive plants, destructive animals and human activities like agriculture, forestry or collecting. When the first humans arrived from the Marquesas Islands and later Tahiti and Samoa, they found islands that rose to great volcanic peaks like Maua Kea and Mauna Loa on Hawai‘i Island, but also lower level mountains like Kaua‘i’s Kawaikini and Wai‘ale‘ale. These smaller mountains supported forests of large trees and, in Kaua‘i’s case, a diverse swamp network where plants found nowhere else on earth, not even on the other Hawaiian islands, created a rich habitat for birds and insects that co-evolved with plants equally unique and limited to Kaua‘i. Today, over a thousand years after first being settled and 239 years after the arrival of Captain Cook and the deluge of humanity (and animals and aggressive non-native plants) that followed, these high elevation wet forests are the last refuge for Hawaiian flora and fauna that represent Hawai‘i’s irreplaceable natural legacy. Walking amongst these plants, admiring the stately ÿöhiÿa lehua (Metrosideros polymorpha) trees that dominate Kaua‘i’s wet forests and the vibrant green mosaic of ferns, mosses and liverworts found growing in open swaths and shady recesses, it’s valuable to pause and consider the remarkable beauty and fragility of these important Hawaiian ecosystems. Kaua‘i’s wet forests found in Köke‘e State Park and near the Alaka‘i Swamp are home to endemic plants like the yellow-bloomed Scaevola glabra, filmy ferns, sedges, lichens and a number of melicopes (in the Citrus family) and lobelias (Bellflower family). These forests contain beautiful trees like ÿölapa (Cheirodendron trigynum), the tiny red berry-filled pükiawe bush (Leptecophylla tameiameiae) and Hawai‘i’s three native species of orchid so rare, it’s unlikely you will see them. Many of these plants are endangered and subject to damage from invasive non-native plants like Himalayan gingers, blackberry bushes and Australian tree fern, just to name a few. Feral goats, deer, wild pigs and rats cause more damage, and humans can irrevocably impact Hawai‘i’s forests with the litter we drop, the plants we pick and the seeds we spread—no matter how unintentional. But it is important to preserve Kaua‘i’s high elevation forests and the Alaka‘i Swamp, as these locations serve as a giant “sponge” for the entire island. Rain and cloud moisture are captured by plants, absorbed by the earth and filtered to the lower elevations, ultimately feeding and nourishing the entire island. In order to gain a better appreciation of Kaua‘i’s wet forests and to help preserve and enjoy them safely, botanists and field collectors from the National Tropical Botanical Garden and Hawai‘i’s Plant Extinction Prevention program share some sound advice. 72

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Tips to Enjoy Kaua‘i’s Wet Forests Safely and Ecologically Don’t be a conveyor of seeds and weeds. It’s easy for tiny seeds to stick to your shoes, clothing or backpack. Unwitting hikers have transferred weeds to places previously free of plants, which can be invasive or harmful to a new ecosystem. Avoid this with a visual inspection of your gear before each hike and clean your shoes before you reach the trailhead. Stay on well-maintained, well-marked trails. Hawai‘i’s forests are both rugged and fragile. Leaving the main trail increases the likelihood that you will inadvertently trample on or through rare or endangered plants, which, especially on Kaua‘i, can mean plants found nowhere else on earth. Don’t get lost. It’s not uncommon for a seemingly “easy” walk to turn into a treacherous hike, maybe leading you to a patch of forest that is unknown, or steering you near or over an unseen cliff. Trails in Hawai‘i’s wet forests often follow steep ridges and animal (usually wild pig) trails can be easily mistaken for proper hiking courses that lead to dangerous and difficult terrain. The wet forests in particular can start to all look alike very quickly once away from a well-marked path. People do occasionally go missing—don’t be one of them. Be aware of your surroundings at all times. Pack it in; pack it out. Everything you bring in—not just the obvious man-made trash—should be removed from the forests. Things that may seem innocuous like fruit peels, peanut shells or other small pieces of food should never be left behind. True, your apple core won’t launch an invasive grove of Granny Smith apples on Kaua‘i, but food waste tossed into the scrub can attract rodents, pigs or other animals that destroy delicate and rare native plant life. Discarded orange peels can carry disease and fungi can potentially harm native Hawaiian members of Rutaceae (Citrus family) of which there are many in Hawai‘i’s native forests. Be prepared. As you hike in Kaua‘i’s forests, you may come across others just “cruising” along rugged mountain trails with nothing but beach sandals and a small bottle of water. On Kaua‘i, it pays to have proper footwear, a sufficient pack and enough supplies, necessities and equipment. Bring suitable clothing that includes waterproof gear that will keep you warm and dry should the wind blow in clouds, rain and unexpected fog. Don’t be fooled by warm sea level temperatures— locations like Köke‘e can easily be 20 degrees cooler and is known to dip into the low 40s and below. Sunscreen, water and snacks are also essential—know what you’re getting into and prepare accordingly. Research your adventure. A hike marked “easy” in one guidebook may not be the kind of easy you are used to. Take advantage of reliable print and web resources that publish accurate, up-to-date information about hiking trails and conditions. The Köke‘e Natural History Museum in Köke‘e State Park is an excellent source of information and is a good place to speak with others about the latest trail conditions. Let plants grow where they are. Native Hawaiian plants cannot be picked without a permit and there are many reasons not to disturb or remove them. As a general fact, many of Hawai‘i’s native plants don’t bear tasty or edible fruits and some plants may or may not have poisons. Be a nature lover and respect the environment you’re in and do your best to preserve all that is Kauaÿi. 73

DESTINATIONS

The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 74

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PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) KENT CHASTAIN

THE NORTH SHORE

KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a

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gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.

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78 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 80 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 86 PICTURE PERFECT PICNICS 90 THE HOT SPOT 92 CULINARY Q&A PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE (KAUAI BEER CO.)

94 SUMMER WINES 96 DATE NIGHT

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KAUA‘I TRAVELER

tidepools hawaiian-style Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. grand hyatt kaua‘i reso rt & s pa | 157 1 P O I PU ROA D | KO LOA , H I 96756

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KAUA‘I DINING SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations. STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Kick back and enjoy live entertainment nightly ranging from Contemporary Hawaiian to Jazz to Indie Pop. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please and live entertainment nightly makes for the perfect nightcap. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood 78

cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. THE LOUNGE AT TIDEPOOLS The Lounge at Tidepools is the perfect spot for an early evening cocktail and light, delicious snack…with a view. Our recent refresh brightened and revitalized the restaurant and lounge. Tidepools’ contemporary Hawaiian cuisine now has a contemporary Hawaiian home. Honoring its namesake and casual style, colors reflect sand, surf and sea. The new wine cellar is home to over 200 wines, find your favorite and take in the views of the lush gardens and azure sea. Located at Tidepools restaurant in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050. WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun.

11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955. NORTH SHORE MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at The St. Regis Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner ThursdayMonday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of JeanGeorges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at The St. Regis Princeville. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644.

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW SYMPHONIC CREATIONS WORDS COCO ZICKOS

Harmonious Roots is a fitting name for a mobile eatery on Kauaÿi that specializes in authentic Persian food—each dish provides a harmony of flavors that are guaranteed to make your tastebuds sing. The pop-up restaurant serves flavorful melodies every week at Hanapëpë Friday Art Night in Kauaÿi’s “Biggest Little Town,” and at the Old Kapaÿa Town’s Art Walk First Saturday. Each menu item is lovingly prepared by Kimya Sadaghiani whose grandmother, Maman Joon, inspires her with delicious, family recipes. Healthy vegetarian and vegan options abound like traditional eggplant stew, Gheymeh Bademjan, a zesty blend of pan-fried eggplant with caramelized onions, tomatoes, yellow split peas and turmeric. What’s more is that all ingredients are sourced on-island and entrées consist of a medley of fresh, local vegetables. Haft Rang Dolmeh, for example, is made entirely of organic, Kauaÿi vegetables like eggplant and zucchini, and carefully hand-wrapped in cabbage rather than grape leaves. Meals are also accompanied with a refreshing cucumber salad, Salad Shirazi, and a cooling Greek yogurt dip, Mast-o-Khiar, as well as basmati rice or pita bread. You don’t want to miss the heavenly music this traveling restaurant will make in your mouth. Visit harmoniousrootshi.com or email harmoniousroots@gmail.com for more information.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

stevenson’s sushi & spirits Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Sushi rolled nightly 5:30-9:30pm. Live contemporary island music 8:30-11:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. grand h yat t k aua‘ i r e sort & spa | 1 57 1 p o i p u roA D | Ko LoA , h i 9 675 6 | K AuA i .g r An D . h yAt t.com

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW A TASTY START

Tidepools, at the luxurious Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa, is known for its romantic atmosphere and exquisite cuisine. Many dishes at this iconic open-air tropical dining establishment feature fresh seafood, including their scrumptious appetizer Lobster Ahi Kilawen. Served with taro chips, this püpü (appetizer) includes locally caught ÿahi (Hawaiian tuna) and cold water lobster kicked up a flavorful notch with chili pepper water. The diced seafood is combined with a hint of chopped jalapeño, onions and tomatoes, giving it a mild, zesty punch, which pays homage to traditional Filipino cuisine. It’s the perfect starter for what is destined to be one of your favorite meals while dining out on Kauaÿi. Tidepools is located at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa in sunny Po‘ipü. The restaurant and lounge are open daily from 5 to 10pm. Call (808) 240-6456 or visit opentable.com to make reservations.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .

Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants,

as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, myhawaiitraveler.com light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.

Kauai Marriott Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.

SOUL FOOD IN A GARDEN

Experience soul food like you’ve never had before at The Greenery Café. Tucked in a beautiful garden in the middle of a neighborhood in downtown Lïhuÿe, this diamond in the rough serves tasty, organic Southern meals with a Hawaiian regional cuisine twist. Wholesome healthy plates like the cooked-to-perfection Barbeque Chicken are accompanied with the choice of three sides like candied yams, collard greens, blackeyed peas, potato salad and cornbread. Fresh Fish such as ÿahi (Hawaiian tuna) or mahi-mahi, seasoned and pan-fried in organic coconut oil, is also incorporated into the menu. Customers can even enjoy many pleasing-to-the-palate wraps like Organic Rosemary Chicken—a favorite among local patrons—made with various fresh ingredients such as herbs plucked straight from the garden, brown rice quinoa and a homemade ginger sesame vinaigrette. Not to mention, there are plenty of vegetarian options like Hummus Salad made with Kaua‘i-grown kale, and smoothies blended with the island’s luscious tropical fruit. The café is owned by two of the nicest people you’ll ever meet, Dayne and Neina Greene, whose welcoming personalities contribute to the refreshing and relaxing experience you’ll find here. Since everything is made to order, however, meals may take a little longer than usual to prepare. But the quality meal you’re getting makes it worth the wait; and if you’re in a rush, just call ahead. The Greenery is located 3146 Akahi Street, Lïhuÿe, in the rear cottage. Open Monday to Friday, 10:30am to 4:30pm. Call (808) 635-2752 or visit thegreenerycafe.com for more information. 84

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PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

Picture Perfect Picnics DINING WITH A VIEW REDEFINED

Kaua‘i’s beaches with its picturesque setting, gentle breezes, swaying palms and the alluring sound of the rhythmic ocean create the ideal environment for anyone ready to enjoy the amazing beauty and splendor of this island paradise. A few places in the world can rival some of the gorgeous picnic spots found in the Garden Isle with surreal sunsets to take in nature’s gifts. So pack some scrumptious picnic fare, unwind and enjoy the view.

WORDS JASMINE MALIA KESSELL

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SALT POND BEACH PARK

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

POLIHALE BEACH

POINT AT SHIPWRECK BEACH

Polihale Polihale is hands-down one of the most breathtakingly beautiful beaches in the world. This seemingly deserted locale on the western end of the island is several miles from the nearest town and holds a vibe of enchantment and mystique, still alive on Kaua‘i today. Polihale is accessible to the public and encompasses nearly 140 acres of coastal land. While the beach may seem a bit desolate at first—more like an arid desert than an island paradise—take a closer look. There are many hidden treasures to discover. Polihale is not recommended for swimming or snorkeling and precautions need to be taken. Polihale has strong rip currents and the beach has no reef protection from the open sea, making waters extremely treacherous. It gets hot at Polihale, especially during the summer months, and there is little protection on this barren landscape. Day-trippers and campers alike may want to bring a beach umbrella for shade and always carry extra sunscreen. You will find facilities with simple amenities like running water, semi-private showers and flushing toilets. You’ll want to bring plenty of drinking water and food since the nearest town is several miles away. Getting to Polihale isn’t difficult, but it does take a while; and the road can be very rough and muddy after heavy rains. Small cars are highly discouraged and four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended. Be sure to check road conditions and the weather forecast before heading out (and your rental agreement). Salt Pond Beach Park Just outside the sleepy little town of Hanapëpë on Kaua‘i’s West Side, you’ll find a great little beach park that embodies the local laidback lifestyle and true Aloha Spirit. Salt Pond Beach Park hosts the only natural salt pond in Hawai‘i and is still used today by descendants of ancient Hawaiians to make sea salt. This public beach is small, but not crowded, and has a variety of picnic terrain to choose from. Salt Pond Beach Park offers full amenities such as myhawaiitraveler.com

restrooms, showers, picnic pavilions, cooking grills, even lifeguard supervision. The quaint and protected cove usually offers safe swimming year-round, ideal for a late afternoon dip. One of the best family destinations for a sunset picnic, camping by permit is also allowed and the weather is usually nice. Be sure to check out the pond itself, but be respectful and do not enter the salt making area. Salt Pond Beach Park can be found by taking Hwy 50 west toward Hanapëpë. Just past mile marker 17, turn left on Lele, then turn right on Lokokai Rd. and drive until you reach the beach park. The Point at Shipwreck Beach This sunny location on the South Side of Kaua‘i is characterized for its spectacular waves, steep shorebreak and picturesque sunset backdrop. Shipwreck Beach in Keoneloa Bay earned its name from an old unidentified wooden shipwreck. The beach is known to get a bit crowded, though if you follow the shore to its most western end, you will arrive at “The Point.” This part of Shipwreck Beach is much more secluded and offers a stunning view of its famous cliffs, highlighting their natural and unusual formations—a perfect setting for your sunset picnic. The beach here consists of golden sand and large rocks, but you’ll have no trouble finding the perfect spot to settle in. Finding Shipwreck Beach is fairly simple since it’s located in front of the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa. Once on the beach, head west until you reach The Point. Mähä‘ulepü Beach If you are looking for that perfect, off-the-beaten-path spot, Mähä‘ulepü is the picnic location you’ve been searching for. This is a destination for those who seek adventure—the beach will take you over a variety of rugged terrain with undeveloped shoreline that offers miles of exploring. Jagged cliffs are scattered over this 87

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2-mile long, golden-red sand beach with small, secluded coves that you can call your own, if only temporarily. Just 10 minutes from the famous Po‘ipü beaches, this South Side locale is a sacred site and home to native species so tread lightly. To get to Mähä‘ulepü, drive about four miles south on Po‘ipü Road. Follow the shoreline, curving to the left until the road turns to dirt. The road continues unpaved for another two miles and driving in a low car after heavy rains is not advised—be sure to check road conditions before continuing on and your rental agreement. Once you see the gates, turn right. The dirt road ends at a parking lot where you will follow a short ﬂat trail to the beach. The gate is open between 7:30am and 6pm. Hanalei Bay On Kauaÿi’s North Shore, Hanalei Bay is celebrated for its surf, beautiful beaches, moonlit nights and an idyllic place for watching Hawaiian sunsets. The renowned half moon bay is quite expansive and the sunset always proves to be rewarding, regardless of where you are on the beach. Setting up near the pier or on the pier will give you a panoramic view to remember. The sun slowly sinking behind Mt. Makana, changing the color of the clouds, valleys and the bay is absolutely breathtaking. You might want to check the weather for rain before heading out. Pack a picnic and enjoy the enchanting scenery—it’s one place on Kaua‘i you won’t want to miss. From Princeville, head north on Hwy 56 and turn right onto Aku Rd. Continue until reaching Weke Rd., where you will make a right at the junction to reach Hanalei Beach Park. To get to the pier, follow Weke until the road ends and you will see the parking lot.

HANALEI PIER

HANALEI BAY

Këÿë Beach An exquisite beach made famous by Hollywood movies, Këÿë Beach was the setting in The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies. Although a busy and heavily visited beach, you’ll find Këÿë to be a lush tropical paradise that is perfect for enjoying a sunset picnic. With spectacular views of the Näpali Coast, Këÿë Beach also boasts great snorkeling within the reef-protected lagoon when conditions are right. Though rainy at times, the sunsets at Këÿë are magical and dreamlike. The extraordinary colors changing on the water as the sun tucks behind the mountain peak of Bali Hai is absolutely incredible. The sunset at Bali Hai is said to be the last in the United States each evening and its majestic profile is where the Näpali Coast begins. Only on Këÿë Beach will you catch a view of this grand spectacle. Parking can be a little tight, but don’t let that deter you away from experiencing this unforgettable destination. Këÿë Beach is located at “the end of the road” literally. Head north on Hwy 560 past Hanalei, and continue all the way to the end. This is the last stop and the Kalalau trailhead to the Näpali Coast is located on Këÿë Beach. Many hikers leave their vehicles here explaining why the beach may not always be crowded, but the parking lot is always full.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

KEâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;E BEACH myhawaiitraveler.com

THE

HOT SPOT

RED SALT WORDS COCO ZICKOS

Red Salt, a contemporary restaurant located in the luxurious Koÿa Kea Hotel & Resort, is adorned with calming white hues and sleek wooden enhancements that make you feel instantly at ease. Expansive windows are the icing on this dining room cake, allowing patrons to gaze upon a lovely tropical scene including tranquil greenery and the beautiful blue Pacific Ocean. Elegance never looked so good. The boutique hotel where the restaurant resides is located in the heart of Poÿipü and reopened in 2009 after undergoing a major renovation. Formerly the Poÿipü Beach Hotel, the structure experienced major damage following Hurricane Iniki in 1992 and had remained closed until recent years. Now, aside from the building’s original location and some outdoor décor, its quietly contemporary atmosphere is different from what it resembled decades ago. Its new featured restaurant, located adjacent to the front lobby, was named after traditional Hawaiian ÿalaea red salt, and has become a favorite for visitors and kamaÿäina (residents) alike who don’t have to 90

be guest of the resort to enjoy. It’s an ideal location to bring a date, especially for a special occasion, as the romantic soft lighting and open space floor plan makes you feel completely at ease and gives you the sweet intimacy perfect for a lovely night out. Even the lounge area, which doesn’t require reservations, is just as charming with a minimalist flare where you can chat with the bartender and order craft cocktails including a one-of-a-kind Blueberry Açaí Martini. The drink is sensational without being overly sweet. Mixed with Van Gogh Blueberry-Açaí Vodka, a splash of lemonade, and topped with fresh blueberries, it’s one of the many drinks patrons can imbibe in while they share laughs and relax in tropical bliss. But the best part about Red Salt, besides being a perfect locale for sunset viewing while you dine, is the delicious food offerings. The cosmopolitan eatery specializes in innovative meals using quality ingredients carefully combined in a variety of styles and flavors. The recently revised menu still features many of the classic offerings like KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Madagascar Vanilla Bean-Seared Mahi served with forbidden black rice and a zesty avocado-ginger salsa, and mango vinaigrette. While most of the current selections include seafood, such as Furikake & Wasabi-Crusted Seared Ahi with a delectable creamy mushroom risotto and asparagus, and Kona Lobster Gnocchi with charred leeks, crimini mushrooms, and a sinful truffle butter sauce, there are options for restricted diets. Vegetarians, for example, can delight in the Misoyaki Tofu with vegetable stir-fry, ginger-infused rice, divine edamame purée, and soy mirin. Appetizers are just as enticing with selections such as Burrata with Heirloom Tomatoes dressed with olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, and fleur de sel or “flower of the salt.” And if you still have room after enjoying these absurdly tasty starters and entrées, dessert is a must. Frankly, even if you don’t have room, make some. You’re in a vacation state of mind, after all. One of the most talked about and sweet-tooth-satisfying options is the Tahitian Vanilla Cheesecake with a macadamia nut crumble crust and an exotic lilikoÿi (passion fruit), or passionfruit, glaze. All of these amazing selections are the genius of Chef Noelani Lei Planas—a Kauaÿi native who found her way to the restaurant business when she was only a teenager. Her first position was a dishwasher at the locally acclaimed Chef Jean-Marie Josselin’s former restaurant, A Pacific Café. But she quickly climbed the ranks to the kitchen where she prepared meals under Josselin’s guidance and mentorship. At only 18, Planas was sent to Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, Nev., to help open Josselin’s restaurant, 808. While there, she also studied under chefs Michael Mina, Wolfgang Puck, and Joël Robuchon. She’s since worked at several high-profile restaurants including American Fish, The Mansion and L’Atelier, and Kauai Grill. Her favorite ingredients to work with, which you’ll find in a host of the Red Salt menu options, are mushrooms, refined flavored oils, exotic finishing salts, and locally grown micro herbs that add that extra touch of exquisite flavor to most dishes. Planas enjoys staying ahead of popular food trends and prefers to use anything she can get her hands on that’s grown on Kauaÿi. She continues to reinvigorate the Red Salt dining experience by taking her knowledge from the past and incorporating it with Kauaÿi edibles. She then tops it off with her own culinary expression, making sure to infuse flavors from her Hawaiian heritage and intertwining them with French and international techniques. If you’re willing to spend a little more for an innovative, cultured dining experience on Kauaÿi where, true to Hawaiÿi fashion, you still don’t need to dress up to partake in, take advantage of this exquisite dining establishment on the South Shore of the Garden Isle. Red Salt is located in beautiful, sunny Poÿipü at 2251 Poÿipü Road. Call (808)-828-8888 or visit meritagecollection.com/koakea/dining-at-redsalt to make reservations. Open for dinner daily from 6 to 10pm. myhawaiitraveler.com

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CULINARY Q&A CHEF CHRISTOPHER KIM

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO IMAGES DANIEL LANE 92

Chef Christopher Kim’s fondest memories relate to watching his grandmother cooking in the kitchen—bringing the entire family together to share a meal and loading the table with delicious, homemade Korean comfort foods. Although he fell in love with cooking at a young age, this California native’s first job in the culinary world actually happened by coincidence. While cashiering at an outlet at Disneyland, he was given the opportunity to work in the heart of the house —the kitchen—where he discovered that the real fun happened. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, Kim had the opportunity to work in the prestigious kitchens of Angelini Osteria, The Bazaar by José Andrés, Munchery, and Stonehill Tavern by Michael Mina where he refined his food philosophy and polished his culinary skills. He joined the team at The St. Regis Princeville Resort in July of 2016 and has taken on the day-to-day operational responsibilities such as menu development, running the kitchen inventory/ordering system, building relationships with vendors, and keeping his chefs motivated and engaged. Whether traveling the globe, staying active in Kauaÿi’s gorgeous weather, or working diligently in the kitchen, Chef Kim hopes to continue to push himself to reach new levels each day. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

When did you know you wanted to become a chef? I actually didn’t know I wanted to become a chef until I enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America. At the time, the job economy had taken a hit and my good friend kept pushing me to go to culinary school with him. After several days of contemplating, I applied and we ended up becoming roommates. We pushed each other daily at the culinary school and even partook jobs on the side. At graduation, it became a no-brainer that I wanted to run my own kitchen. Who is someone you admire in the culinary world? I admire Chef Raj Dixit because he has mentored me from the day I stepped into his kitchen to continue to push myself and work seamlessly under pressure. What are some things that you bring as a Chef of the signature restaurant at The St. Regis Princeville Resort? I bring a minimalist, yet whimsical, approach to the Kauai Grill. I like to take risks in the kitchen but working here, where I only have one chance to impress each guest, I have to be smart about what I put on each plate. Like Chef Jean-Georges, I traveled around much of Asia to gain a better understanding and develop new flavor profiles that I utilize in my cuisine. What is your approach to using local ingredients? I like to introduce a couple specials each week utilizing local products and unravel them in ways my staff and guests would not expect. I am still learning a lot about the various bountiful produce, dairy, and proteins found here on Kauaÿi, and I am beyond excited to show my guests what this beautiful island has to offer through my cooking.

Service begins at 5:30pm at Kauai Grill and I expedite food for the majority of service. I will touch tables from time to time to congratulate guests celebrating special occasions, and get some feedback on the cuisine. We break the restaurant down around 9:30pm, and then I work on the ordering, daily logs, and making any adjustments necessary for the next day. Describe a perfect day off from start to finish. My perfect day off would start around 8am (I can’t sleep in anymore since I live on a beautiful island!). I like to jog around the neighborhood, and then go to the scenic overlook of the taro fields. After running, I would hit the waves for a quick surf session at Hanalei Bay, and when done I would have worked up a big appetite so I would catch a nice brunch at Hemingway’s with an Americano. I would then head to Poÿipü to relax and enjoy some püpü (appetizers), but drive back to Princeville before sunset for dinner at Kauai Grill. I would begin my meal with an apéritif of Billecart-Salmon Rosé and would start dinner with the shrimp dumplings and bone marrow with chimichurri sauce. For entrée, I would definitely go for the Dry-Aged Ribeye Steak or the Whole Kona Lobster with a glass of Domaine Michel Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Grand Cru. I would finish my meal with my favorite ice cream—the Salted Ice Cream Caramel Sundae with chocolate, peanuts, and candied popcorn. If there was still room, I would definitely grab a glass of Ruinart to top the night. Kauai Grill is located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort at 5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville, HI 96722. They are open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday from 5:30pm to 9:30pm. Reservations can be made at OpenTable. For general information, call (808) 826-2250 or KauaiGrill.com.

What are some of your favorite, must-try dishes at Kauai Grill? Some of my must-try dishes at the restaurant are the local quinoa salad with black garlic vinaigrette, the Kauai Shrimp Dumplings topped with lobster sauce, and the Beef Bone Marrow served with a lemon gremolata, shallot jam, and herbed crostini as well as the Crispy Poached Eggs topped with caviar. For entrées, I enjoy the Pan Seared Mahi Mahi that is crusted with a blend of nuts and seeds served with a mushroom jus and also the Grilled Local Tenderloin served with asparagus, aliÿi mushrooms, and a soy caramel emulsion. But when in doubt, I suggest trying the Chef’s Tasting Menu. How often does Kauai Grill add or change items on the menu and how do you get inspiration to create new dishes? I change the menu seasonally, but there are specials weekly, if not daily. I get inspiration for my menu from various areas. Locally, it is from visiting the farmers markets and seeing what is fresh. I also eat out a lot and simply converse with the locals and my cooks on what excites them. I challenge them daily to create something that inspires them—it is a team effort. Describe a typical day of work for yourself. A typical workday would start by checking my emails and trying to get all of the administrative work out of the way. Typically, there is a meeting or two lined up so I have to plan my day around them. I will start in the kitchen with my stocks or sauces for the day. While I have my larger projects going on the burners, I tend to work on the smaller ones—making purées, pasta, garnishes, etc. My proteins typically come in around noon so I check products for quality control, and break down all the proteins, portioning them for service. myhawaiitraveler.com

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SUMMER WINES

BROADEN YOUR WINE LIST WITH THESE UNCONVENTIONAL VARIETALS

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Nothing can beat a crisp sip of chilled wine on a warm summer afternoon in a tropical paradise, but reaching for the same bottle time and again can become somewhat monotonous. If you are looking to try something new to add to your repertoire, try some of these unconventional summer whites to keep your palate in happy spirits. 94

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Assyrtiko

This white grape indigenous to the island of Santorini in Greece is known for a racing acidity pairing with a delicate sweetness that can only be described as tantalizing. Grown in rich volcanic soils, the resulting wines have a delicious shade of minerality draped behind each sip that creates a complex and haunting white wine that, when served chilled, is a perfect choice to sip on during a warm afternoon. Chuck Furuya, Hawaiÿi’s first Master Sommelier, suggests the 2012 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko ($12 per bottle; sigalas-wine.com), which is grown in black lava rock and pumice stone and then fermented slowly in stainless steel tanks to retain as much fruit characteristics from the grapes as possible. The resulting wine is a gentle straw blond color bursting with vibrant citrus notes and an aftertaste that will extensively perfume your palate. An interesting balance between indulgent and assertive, this wine deliciously pairs with white meats such as a tenderloin of pork, slow roasted for hours and served with a light sauce. The light body of this wine will not be lost against the pork while the bright citrus notes will enhance the meat through each bite.

Malvasia Bianca

A native grape to the Mediterranean region, the Malvasia bianca grape has found a strong footing in cooler appellations of California where the perfume scents of jasmine, lychee, and grapefruit shine through in the resulting wines. Although vinified in a med-dry/dry style of white wine, the luscious fruit notes in this wine will translate to a sweetness on the palate pleasing all types of wine enthusiasts looking for a refreshing sip during the hot summer months. Furuya suggests the 2013 Birichino Monterey Malvasia Bianca ($18 per bottle; vinesse.com), which hails from the cool Monterey appellation of California. On attack, the palate is blessed with an array of delicious tropical fruits, which finishes with a lemony zest that serves to refresh the palate and liven up tastebuds. This is a perfect myhawaiitraveler.com

pairing for pan-seared scallops served with a brown butter sauce—the delicate body of this wine won’t overwhelm the fragile scallops and the brightness from the lemon notes will help cut the buttery sauce of this dish. Another playful pairing for this wine would be a sweet pizza topped with gorgonzola cheese, candied walnuts, and slices of poached pears. When thinking of an interesting addition to your summer table, opt for this sweet dish and allow the wine to mix and mingle with the flavors of a sweet pizza.

Grüner Veltliner

This dry wine from Austria has been gathering a cult following over recent years from those who are drawn to its interesting combination of flavors paired against a sturdy vein of acidity making it a wonderful wine to pair with a variety of foods. Traditional Grüner Veltliner features notes of lemon, lime, grapefruit and a telling aroma of green peppers, tarragon, and ginger which makes for an interesting combination of tropical sweet and savory flavors. The 2014 Allram Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner Erste Lage Kamptal ($25 per bottle; klwines.com) is one of note with its blend of bright citrus and white pepper dancing upon a near weightless body. With a clean and sparkling finish, the food-friendliness of this wine makes it an easy pair with dishes varying from veal schnitzel to lightly spiced Asian dishes. Another stellar Grüner Veltliner to try is the 2015 Tatomer “Meeresboden” Santa Barbara County Grüner Veltliner ($27 per bottle; klwines.com) which is a masterful blend of several small plantings of Grüner Veltliner across the winery’s vineyards. This orchestra of flavors features stone fruits and yellow citrus when young that develops to silky, honey notes with age. With so many options of chilled wine available, finding one that suits your taste and budget is an easy task sure to keep you cool and calm as the temperature continues to rise. So sit back, relax and enjoy a sip of summer. 95

THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA

Date Night

YOUR GUIDE TO A NIGHT OUT ON THE GARDEN ISLE WORDS COCO ZICKOS

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) THE SHOPS AT KUKUI'ULA; (TOP RT) EATING HOUSE 1849; (MIDDLE) DANIEL LANE; (BOTTOM RIGHT) GRAND HYATT KAUA'I RESORT & SPA

ou’re visiting one of the most romantic islands in the world with the one you love. After an extraordinary day snorkeling and watching the sun dip below the horizon together, you’re wondering, “now what?” Ordering room service and hunkering down to watch television is completely relaxing and fine once in a while, but it isn’t exactly a memorable date night. While Kauaÿi isn’t known for evening entertainment and late night thrills like some of the other Hawaiian Islands, that doesn’t mean amusing options don’t exist, even long after the sun goes down. When most people think of ways to make their sweetie swoon, they go straight for the belly. Dining out is one of the easiest pieces of the date night puzzle to put together on Kauaÿi. Opportunities for romantic settings abound including the many restaurants located at The Shops at Kukuiÿula in Poÿipü. Eating House 1849 and Merriman’s Fish House both dish up delicious meals that specialize in fresh ingredients and locally caught fish that will surely satiate your appetites for island fare. They also offer sensational outdoor seating atmospheres. Hukilau Lanai, located in Kapaÿa, also has an outdoor dining setting where you can look into your date’s eyes and take in the sweet aroma of the sea at the same time. If you really want to splurge, Red Salt at Koÿa Kea Hotel and Resort in Poÿipü is another cultured dining experience with a sophisticated setting that’s perfect for falling in love all over again. Many visitors wonder what is there to do after dinner especially since most restaurants close by 9 or 10pm. There are a few places, however, still hopping after that. For a more refined experience, Stevenson’s Sushi & Spirits at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa has signature craft cocktails that can keep you warm and cozy until midnight. The koa wood bar and divine décor gives this lounge a luxurious ambience. You’ll also be treated to live entertainment from 8:30 to 11pm with pleasant background music. myhawaiitraveler.com

EATING HOUSE 1849

HUKILAU LANAI

STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS 97

Those itching for a more raucous experience and a place to cut a rug, look no further than Trees Lounge in Kapaÿa or Tahiti Nui in Hanalei. Lovingly known as the “Nui,” the latter is a Tahitian-styled dive bar that became much more frequented in recent years after it was featured in the movie, The Descendants. It’s where late-night brawls and shenanigans have been known to exist, but also where some great live, local music can be enjoyed. Trees Lounge is a local watering hole for the densely populated East Side. It’s got a traditional bar ambience with plenty of singles mingling. However, you can still get cozy with your date in a booth and enjoy the eclectic mix of entertainment offered throughout the week including Hawaiian music and DJs. While this Kapaÿa bar is only a step above a dive, it has one of the largest spaces for dancing on island with your honey. But if your desire is to have intimate conversation, look elsewhere, this place has a tendency to get loud. The Kauai Beer Company is hands down one of the finest new establishments to happen to the island as far as date night is concerned. Located on Rice Street in Lïhuÿe, bartenders serve hops that are brewed on-site—you can see the equipment behind the bar. The environment is mostly low-key, but if you decide to go on a Thursday night, be prepared for standing room only. Every week, the business invites local food trucks to park outside for Truck Stop Thursday, so that imbibers can also enjoy some tasty grinds while they sip and socialize. Kauai Beer Company also regularly hosts other affairs like Trivia Night where dates can exercise their brains together while they try lagers like Black Limousine or ales like Tropical Armadillo. Bars aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. And that’s alright because there is a wealth of other ways to be entertained at night that doesn’t involve booze. The Kauai Escape Room is the only spot of its kind on the island. The business was created by husband and wife team, Michelle Rundbaken and Yacine Merzouk. They enjoyed the physically interactive “escape” games whenever they traveled and wanted to bring the fun home. Couples can solve puzzles in “themed” rooms, giving them a chance to experience something new and exciting together. The “Tiki Lounge” room is perfect for tropical travelers—it has a retro Polynesian theme and several surprises along its timed, mystery-solving road. Seeing something theatrical is always an option for those 98

who may be culturally inclined. Several artistic groups exist on Kauaÿi, including Hawaii Children’s Theatre, Women in Theatre, Kauaÿi Performing Arts Center, and Kauai Community Players. Throughout the year, at least one of these organizations holds performances at locations like Kauaÿi Community College, Kauaÿi War Memorial Convention Hall, or Puhi Theatrical Warehouse. Shows range from family-friendly musicals to adults-only comedies. Just visit any of the groups’ websites to find out what’s playing while you’re in town. A new business that’s popped up on Kauaÿi perfect for date night is Paradise Palette. It’s a creative way for couples to explore their artistic side together. The business holds events on a weekly basis at different venues around the island like Brick Oven Pizza in Kaläheo, where guests are free to order drinks or food items from the menu at the same time they make their masterpieces. And if you doubt your ability to paint, don’t worry—step-by-step instructions are provided by a lovely host so that everyone is guaranteed to walk away with their own version of a tropical-inspired scene. You’ll be so happy with the outcome—you’ll have something to proudly display when you get home as a reminder of your fun time together on Kauaÿi. And don’t forget, if you love craftsmanship, Kauaÿi offers regular art nights in different locations around the island. It’s where local artisans sell their creations, and food trucks and musical entertainment abounds. They are great places to purchase locally crafted keepsakes for your friends and family at home. Each week, Kauaÿi’s biggest little town, Hanapëpë, hosts Friday Art Night where stores stay open late and the street is lined with artists and chefs selling homemade products. Other options include Old Kapa‘a Town’s First Saturday held the first Saturday of each month and Princeville Night Market held every second Sunday of the month at Princeville Shopping Center. Don’t forget one of the easiest, and least expensive, ways to celebrate your love is a date night in nature. Grab some yummy food to go and take it to any number of beaches encompassing the island to have your own private dinner on some cozy towels in the sand. Take a stroll afterwards along the shore and watch the moon rise, casting its enchanting glow upon the ocean. Gaze up at the stars and point out your favorite constellations as you toast to the fact that there’s nowhere else in the world you’d rather be and no one else you’d rather be with. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE/ALL) DANIEL LANE

AND DON’T FORGET, IF YOU LOVE CRAFTSMANSHIP, KAUA‘I OFFERS REGULAR ART NIGHTS IN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS AROUND THE ISLAND.

TAHITI NUI

KAPA'A ART WALK myhawaiitraveler.com

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DESTINATIONS

EAST KAUA‘I THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST

The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rock-lined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and 100

freshwater swimming holes. Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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SAND + SURF NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK

This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.

HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK

This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.

HANALEI BAY

One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd.

KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH

This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, 104

and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.

KALIHIWAI BEACH

This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.

KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH

This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.

KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH

This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.

KĒ‘Ē BEACH

The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of

strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.

LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)

One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.

MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH

This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MOLOA‘A BEACH

Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.

NĀPALI COAST PARK

About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.

PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)

Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.

PU‘U POA BEACH

Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.

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WAIAKALUA BEACH

A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.

EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH

Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.

ANAHOLA BEACH PARK

Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.

DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH

A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry, dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.

FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)

Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.

KEĀLIA BEACH

A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.

LYDGATE STATE PARK

A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River.

NUKOLI‘I BEACH

Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.

WAILUA BEACH

Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy. 105

SAND + SURF WAIPŌULI BEACH

A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.

LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH

A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.

HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH

A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.

HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH

Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.

KALAPAKĪ BEACH

This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.

LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH

Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.

MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ BEACH

A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site 106

for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.

NININI BEACHES

Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.

PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK

Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.

SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH

A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.

WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH

The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.

KEKAHA BEACH PARK

This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The

beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.

PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH

The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.

POLIHALE BEACH

The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.

SALT POND BEACH PARK

The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park. EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty. Visit kauailifeguards.org for more safety information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING LIVE MUSIC AT SHUTTER’S LOUNGE (Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutter’s Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 11pm and 5pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information. WAIMEA HISTORIC WALKING TOUR (Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 3381332 for more information. GROVE FARM MUSEUM TOUR (Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET (Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as Kukui‘ula Village merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at 108

the great retail shops and restaurants. Every Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at Kukui‘ula Village in Po‘ipü. HANAPĒPĒ FRIDAY NIGHT FESTIVAL & ART WALK (Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469. ALOHA FRIDAY: MAKE A LEI, WEAR A LEI (Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332. KAUA‘I COMMUNITY MARKET (Saturdays) - New weekend value added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217. ‘OHANA DAY (Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931. PRINCEVILLE NIGHT MARKET (Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+

local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com. KĪLAUEA ART NIGHT (Monthly) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival held on the last Saturday of each month featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Held at Anaina Hou Community Park. Email KilaueaArtNight@ gmail.com for more info. KEIKI DAY AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK (May 20, June 24, July 29, Aug. 26) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many childfriendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended ($10/person, free for children under 1 years old). For more info or to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit naainakai.org/keiki-day. MAY ANNUAL VISITOR INDUSTRY CHARITY WALK (May 13) - The Hawaii Lodging and Tourism Association Kauaÿi Chapter will host the 38th Annual Visitor Industry Charity Walk. The walk will start at 7am at the Historic County Building and take walkers through Lïhuÿe on a 2.9-mile route. The Charity Walk is open to the public and everyone is welcome to participate. All walkers should have minimum donation ($35) regardless of age, which includes food, fun and entertainment. Please note that no pets are allowed on the Charity Walk. For more info, contact Jolene (808) 652-8924 or visit CharityWalkHawaii.org.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

BANANA POKA ROUNDUP (May 28) – A festive family event for young and old, this annual forest education fair combines education of Kaua‹i’s forest environment with good fun and Hawaiian music including games for kids, crafts, drawings, snacks, silent auction and a crowing contest. At Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow in Kökeÿe State Park, 10am to 4pm. Free admission with donations accepted. Call (808) 335-9975 or email info@kokee.org..

THE KINGS’ CELEBRATION AND PARADE (June 10) – Arts, crafts and entertainment from 8am to 2pm starting at the Historic County Building in Lïhuÿe. Contact (808) 635-7205 for more information. JULY 32ND ANNUAL KOLOA PLANTATION DAYS (July 21-30) - Over 25 events celebrate the plantation heritage and modern-day vitality of South Shore communities of Koloa and Poÿipü during this 10-day, family-oriented festival. Each year, the festival brings visitors and residents together to learn about Koloa’s multicultural history, experience a diverse range of local foods, culture and activities, explore the area’s unique ecology and archaeology, and enjoy the warm hospitality of the South Shore’s resorts, golf courses, and other neighborhood venues. You’ll find rodeo events, “talk stories” about growing up on the plantation, live music events, cultural performances, film nights, culinary demonstrations, craft fairs, guided walks and hikes, activities and games just for keiki (children), sporting events, and the myhawaiitraveler.com

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JUNE 29TH ANNUAL TASTE OF HAWAII: THE ULTIMATE SUNDAY BRUNCH (June 4) - Taste of Hawaii was not only the first event of its kind in Hawaiÿi, it has consistently been a statewide favorite attracting more than 2,000 attendees annually. Voted the “Best Community Event” on Kauaÿi several times, the event will once again take place at Smith’s Tropical Paradise. With more than 25 chefs, 15 beverage vendors, and 10 musical acts, it’s an afternoon of endless food, drink, and dancing hosted by the Rotary Club of Kapaÿa. Visit TasteOfHawaii.com or call (808) 346-7095 for tickets.

KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET Wednesdays at The Shops at Kukui‘ula

historic parade and park celebration. Visit KoloaPlantationDays.com for full schedule of events or call Melissa (808) 652-3217.

free) at Kapaÿa Beach Park from 9am to 5pm. For more info, call Sally at (808) 822-9447 or visit HeivaIKauai.com.

AUGUST HEIVA I KAUA‘I (Aug. 5-6) – This is a cultural festival, an international Tahitian dance and drumming competition with solo competitors from age 4 years to 50+ and group competition in its 16th year. An exciting part of the festival is the audience participation in dance and coconut husking contests. Multi-cultural Polynesian exhibition dancing and music are featured along with an extensive craft fair with an array of items from arts and jewelry to clothing and food with special emphasis on Tahitian products. Tickets are $6/person/day (children 6 and under are

THE SAND FESTIVAL AND SAND CASTLE CONTEST (Aug. 12) - Come to the free Sand Festival and Sand Castle/Sculpture Contest. For kids and adults, individuals or teams of any size. All are welcome to create their dream and enjoy a day at the beach as sand artists. Contest is held left of the Hanalei Pier from 11am to 3pm. For more info, visit HawaiiSandCastle.com or call Julian (808) 245-8680. All events are subject to change. Check out myhawaiitraveler.com for updates and more events. 109

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KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital

911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100

AIRPORTS

Līhu‘e Ariport

AIRLINES

Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines

CREDIT CARDS

American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory

TRANSPORTATION

Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi

246-1448

1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522

1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212

1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554

WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast

245-6001 245-3564

VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400

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Deluxe Snorkel & Sunset Dinner Cruises & Beach Landing Snorkel Raft Adventures

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DOLPHIN Encounters on morning tours

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Majestic Nāpali EXPLORING KAUA‘I’S ANCIENT COASTLINE

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