Kauai Traveler - Fall 2017 by Traveler Media

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KAUA‘I TRAVELER

WAIMEA CANYON THE GRANDEST VIEWS IN THE PACIFIC

PLANTATION FOOD THE TRADITION OF SHARING CONTINUES

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CANOE PLANTS

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CONTENTS 2

24 WELCOME TO KAUA‘I Paradise Found

50 PO‘IPŪ GEMS Your guide to exporing the South

48 SOUTH SHORE The Sun-Drenched Coast from Po‘ipū to Polihale Beach

65 OCEAN GUIDES The allure of the Hawaiian sea turtle

72 NORTH SHORE The Majestic and Magical Wonder of Nature 100 EAST SIDE The Royal Coconut Coast 8 LOCAL VIBE This 'n That Hawai‘i style 20 LOCAL RAVES & FAVES My Kaua‘i 32 GRAND VIEWS Waimea Canyon is filled with nature’s majestic gems 38 CANOE PLANTS The Polynesian voyagers' survival kit for life in a new land 50 PO‘IPŪ GEMS Your guide to exporing the South

70 BEAUTY IN FLIGHT The Laysan albatross are exceptional sea lovebirds 78 WHAT WE LOVE NOW Trending Culinary Experiences 83 KAUA'I FOOD: THEN & NOW Plantation days are long gone, but the tradition of sharing food is as strong as ever. 86 BY THE SEA Make every meal on Kaua‘i more enjoyable with a scenic view 90 THE HOT SPOT Eating House 1849 92 CULINARY Q&A Chef Sam Choy 94 SIPPING THROUGH THE SEASON Whether you are hosting a party for two or twenty, these wines are bottled happiness 50 PENNED ON KAUA'I Meet some popular storytellers on the Garden Isle

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

The Shops at Kukui‘ula /// Kapolei Commons /// International Market Place

hawaii inspired Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawaii’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawaii, called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and fishermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine.

CONTENTS

SHOP | 42

U KA A’I TRAVELER THE LIFE & STYLE OF KAUA‘I

Publisher

Kevin Geiger

Editor in Chief Mun Sok Geiger

Contributors

Coco Zickos Krystal Kakimoto Andrew Walsh Mary Troy Johnston Daniel Lane

GOLF | 54

Copy Editor Joseph Kwak

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ADVENTURE | 62

FOOD + DRINK | 86

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ALOHA

EDITOR'S NOTE

aua‘i is one of the most beautiful places on earth—it’s also super remote. I can only imagine what it must have been like when Polynesian voyagers first laid their eyes on its welcoming shoreline and gloriously fluted peaks and deep valleys. What’s even more baffling is how these ancient mariners were able to pinpoint with pristine accuracy exactly where the Hawaiian Islands were located based merely upon their awareness of natural elements like currents, waves, stars and weather. Other species, like honu (turtles), also used this innate navigational system to make their way to Hawai‘i (Ocean Guides, p. 65). I appreciate the venerable oceanic wisdom of these gentle creatures that is palpable whenever you’re in their presence. Just remember to admire them from afar, whether on the sand or in the sea—their populations have undergone many struggles throughout the years, and it’s still easy to sense their magic from a respectable distance. One of the best places to see the green sea turtles as they gracefully bob their heads in and out of the water is along Po‘ipü’s golden coast (Po‘ipü Gems, p. 50). This South Shore location is a favorite of mine, as I love the opportunity not only to spot marine life, but soak in the area’s rich historical features from the Makauwahi Cave Reserve, which is the largest fossil site in the state, to Ke Kahua O Käneiolouma that is part of a sacred Hawaiian village recently restored by a group of dedicated volunteers. And when I need a heaping dose of tranquility, I like to head to Waimea Canyon (Grand Views, p. 32). Miles of untouched land means plenty of nooks and crannies to explore

and adventures to partake in and find some peace in nature. Journey to Waipo‘o Falls on the Canyon Trail with unbeatable panoramas of the red dirt-laced gorge, and catch a heavenly glimpse of Kalalau Valley at Pu‘u o Kila Lookout. You might not realize, unlike the endemic plants growing in Waimea and Köke‘e State Parks, most of Kaua‘i’s greenery at lower elevations was imported to the island. Canoe plants (Canoe Plants, p. 38) refer to the group of species the legendary Polynesian seafarers brought to the Hawaiian Islands for practical purposes like food, medicine and bedding. Many of these same plants continue to dominate the island’s landscape, as well as its local cuisine (Kaua‘i Food: Then & Now, p. 83). Breadfruit, kalo (taro) and sweet potatoes are among the fresh ingredients incorporated into many of Kaua‘i’s ethnically diverse dishes introduced during the plantation days that include Japanese, Korean, Portuguese and Filipino influences. With talented chefs and an array of exotic flavors, plus the incredible ingredients available here, you can bet you will experience delicious, multi-cultural creations found nowhere else. Putting the insane beauty of Kauaÿi aside, there are many other reasons to fall in love with the island’s bounty that will satisfy every one of your senses. Warmest aloha, Mun Sok Geiger munsok@traveler.media Editor-in-Chief KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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LOCAL VIBE

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SPIRITUAL GUIDE

It’s likely that when you think of tropical birds found on Hawaiÿi, owls are not some of the first mental images that you conjure up. But the pueo, or Hawaiÿi’s own short-eared owl, makes its home across the Hawaiian Islands, including here on Kauaÿi. Unlike other owls, the pueo is active during the daytime, and can be found from sea level to much higher elevations, and seem to prefer open grassland. With dark brown and white feathers, and large yellow eyes, these beautiful birds differ from the more frequently seen barn owl. These beautiful birds of prey are sacred creatures to Hawaiians. Endemic to Hawaiÿi, the pueo is thought to have arrived around the same time as the ancient Polynesians or even before, and is said to be the manifestation of ÿaumäkua, or ancestral guardians, to many families past and present. Pueo appears in many Hawaiian legends and myths and is still revered with the utmost respect and love. Representing skill in battle, pueo are seen as protectors or guides, as well as messengers of warning, and bringers of good luck. Sadly, their populations have been on the decline, making sighting of these beautiful birds rare, so be sure to keep your eyes out for them in your travels.

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SWEET INVASION LOCAL LINGO - "EDDIE WOULD GO"

On your travels around the Aloha State, you may have seen t-shirts, bumper stickers, or friends utter the phrase, “Eddie would go.” But who is Eddie, and where is he going? Eddie, or Edward Aikau, is a local legend, known for his surfing prowess and death defying water rescues as a lifeguard at Waimea Bay on Oÿahu’s North Shore, home to some of the largest surf on Earth. Under his and his brother Clyde’s watch as lifeguards, not a single person lost their life. When the Höküleÿa, a traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe that uses only ancient seafaring techniques and no modern equipment, was about to embark on its second voyage in 1978, Eddie and his crew set out into the open ocean. Sadly, the vessel capsized due to high winds and large swells right at the edge of the Hawaiian Islands. With no way to radio for help, Eddie bravely set off on a surfboard, never to be seen again. The entire crew was later rescued, all except for Eddie whose bravery and selflessness is lovingly remembered to this day. In his honor, a big wave surf contest on Oÿahu’s North Shore, simply called “The Eddie,” pays homage to the man who risked his life day in, day out to help others. The phrase “Eddie would go” has come to represent putting yourself out there when no one else will, and selflessly helping out your fellow man. Eddie would go—would you? 8

Guava (Psidium guajava) is the most common fruit tree found in the Hawaiian Islands. Unfortunately, it is extremely invasive without the predators that keep it in check in its native Brazil. Guava spreads quickly and grows so thick that it overwhelms many endemic species. The strawberry guava, introduced in 1825, is the most common of several types of guava that grow in Hawaiÿi. The ovular fruit ranges in color from green to yellow to a reddish pink. Conservation efforts are being utilized in order to minimize the effect of the guava on local rainforests. Nonetheless, the sweet and tangy fruit and the products made from it are readily available in grocery stores and markets. Many locals eat the fruit with soy sauce and vinegar, while others simply enjoy it raw. It can be cooked, turned into jams or jellies, or you can cool off with a refreshing glass of guava nectar on a hot day. Stick with guavas that are firm and juicy, and feel free to eat the Vitamin C-rich skin along with the sweet flesh. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

U · K

KUI‘U

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LOCAL VIBE

SPRINKLE OF ALOHA Highly prized throughout human history, salt has helped not only flavor food, but preserve it long before refrigerators existed. In fact, the term “salary” is rooted in ancient Roman’s paying their soldiers in money as well as, you guessed it, salt. On the Garden Isle, we’re lucky to have access to some of the most flavorful salts on Earth. ÿAlaea sea salt, known for its bright red tint, gets its coloring from the red clay that lines the ponds where the salt is harvested. When the white salt is left over from the ocean, harvesters mix the salt, leaving behind a burnt red color that’s visually striking. Used in many local dishes, including poke and kälua pig, these versatile little crystals lend a unique flavor to any dish. ÿAlaea salt is famous for retaining its flavor in the cooking process, and even having less sodium per serving of table salt. Next time you’re dining out, or looking to cook in, be sure to sprinkle a little extra flavor of aloha on your dish. 10

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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MYSTICAL PENCIL Hawaiÿi’s waters are known for their colorful fish, exotic coral, and even large mammals. One of the more visually striking creatures is the red pencil urchin, also known as ÿina ÿula in Hawaiian, with long, solid bright red spines protruding out of its round body. Looking almost like a pincushion for crayons, these peaceful pointy creatures typically reside in the crevices of offshore reefs, emerging at night to feed on a diet of mostly algae. Though these urchins aren’t poisonous, do not touch as you can cause serious damage to the creature. It’s hard to resist the appeal of such an intriguing, vibrant marine animal, but snorkelers and scuba divers are asked to admire with their eyes, not with their hands. Tip: You can find broken points of these urchins while beachcombing and use them to write like chalk. Whatever you are drawing may have a slight delay showing up, which makes it seem like you are writing with a magic pencil. 12

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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COLORFUL BEAUTIES Pick a color, any color. Well, maybe not any color, but if you’re a fan of pinks, yellows, oranges, whites, reds, and some variations in-between, you’re in luck. The beautiful hibiscus flower (aloalo in Hawaiian), ubiquitous around the Hawaiian Islands, is a striking symbol of tropical living. It’s stunning, colorful pedals and long stamen are perfect for admiring all across the island, or behind the ear for the perfect accessory to any island-inspired attire. Not only known for its beauty, hibiscus has been used across cultures and over generations for a variety of purposes. Parts of the flower can also be used to make hibiscus tea, known for its tart, sour taste. Hibiscus also has been said to have medicinal properties, such as reducing high blood pressure and also helping to heal wounds. This versatile flower isn’t just easy on the eyes, but you’ll be forgiven if you can’t help but appreciate it for its beauty.

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BLISSFUL BAY On Kauaÿi’s North Shore, Hanalei Bay is celebrated for its surf, beautiful beaches, moonlit nights and an idyllic place for watching Hawaiian sunsets. The renowned half moon bay is quite expansive and the sunset always proves to be rewarding, regardless of where you are on the beach. Setting up near the pier or on the pier will give you a panoramic view to remember. The sun slowly sinking behind Mt. Makana, changing the color of the clouds, valleys and the bay is absolutely breathtaking. Pack a picnic and enjoy the enchanting scenery—it’s one place on Kaua‘i you won’t want to miss. From Princeville, head north on Hwy 56 and turn right onto Aku Rd. Continue until reaching Weke Rd., where you will make a right at the junction to reach Hanalei Beach Park. To get to the pier, follow Weke until the road ends and you will see the parking lot. 16

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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HOW LONG YOU HAVE LIVED IN HAWAI‘I MOVED FROM

41 YEARS

CALIFORNIA Favorite beach: Kauapea “Secrets”—very spiritual location, golden sand, sea cliffs with fresh spring water for showering. Favorite food: A cold strawberry sunrise papaya with a splash of lime—it tastes like ice cream. Favorite pastime/activity: Swimming Hanalei Bay or ÿAnini Beach—great meditation time—I always unplug before I go. Favorite snorkel spot: Mäkua Beach “Tunnels.” Abundant reef fish and it’s a marine reserve. Favorite drive: From Hanalei Town to the pier—it’s beautiful! Favorite hike: Këÿë to Hanakäpiÿai—the scenery is stunning. Favorite custom/tradition: Lei giving. I love sharing aloha with beautiful flowers. Favorite hangout: Bali Hai Realty—family, friends and clients are always stopping by to say aloha. Favorite Hawaiian product: Organic Hanalei taro chips—homegrown and ÿonolicious. Favorite Hawaiian band/CD: Israel “IZ” Kaÿanoÿi Kamakawiwoÿole—because his voice gives you chicken skin. Favorite place to take your guests: Kïlauea Stone Dam via Wai Koa Loop Trail—a magical and peaceful spot. Favorite place to catch the sunset/sunrise: Sunset at Hanalei Pier—gathering place for visitors and locals to enjoy. Favorite place for happy hour: St. Regis Bar in Princeville—enjoy the sabering of their Champagne Ritual at sunset. Favorite place to splurge: Farmers markets—fresh and tasty produce and frozen chocolate covered bananas. Favorite nightspot: In our hale with my wahine. Favorite date place: The St. Regis Bar for their live Hawaiian music.

Favorite place to take in the history: Kïlauea Lighthouse. It’s magical and most northern point in the state of Hawaiÿi. Favorite discovery: Rainbows and moonbows—it’s a sign from heaven.

my local faves

KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE 20

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KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I THE GARDEN ISLAND

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ALOHA

It’s no surprise that Kaua‘i typically finds itself ranked as one of the top islands in the world. There are two of many distinctions Kaua‘i holds that contribute to landing on the top of many traveler's lists. The first is that Kaua‘i is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands, so Mother Nature has had plenty of time to cut deep gorges into the valleys, shape dramatic sea cliffs and sculpt the majestic Waimea Canyon into “the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Another primary distinction is that Kaua‘i is also home to the rainiest spot on earth, Mount Wai‘ale‘ale (rippling water), with an average yearly rainfall of 450 inches. Situated almost in the center of the island, this 5,148 ft. tall mountain provides Kaua‘i with the nourishment it needs to earn its monicker as the Garden Isle, with lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls and verdant tropical foliage. The scenery may steal the show, but it’s the various adventures in the idyllic setting that will get your heart racing. You can navigate one of the Island’s seven rivers on a kayak, trek through the rainforest of Alaka‘i 26

Wilderness Area, wander through multiple jade gardens, hike trails of all levels, and be rewarded with secret waterfalls and golden sand beaches. You can even sit poolside at a five-star resort, where your only exertion is choosing a tropical refreshment. Whatever your pleasure, this emerald island promises a regal vacation. In case you haven’t noticed, tall buildings don’t obscure any of the natural splendors of Kaua‘i. This is because legislation mandates that no structure built on Kaua‘i is taller than a coconut tree. How it has managed to maintain that code after all these years is a mystery, but Kaua‘i is no stranger when it comes to standing its ground. Not even the Great King Kamehameha could take it down. In fact, in an attempt to prevent further attacks on both his people and his Island, King Kaumuali‘i, Kaua‘i’s last reigning king, decided to cede Kaua‘i to Kamehameha in peaceful negotiations. Now that is the original “make love not war” mentality. This peaceful mindset has been passed on through KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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generations and is apparent in island life today. Kaua‘i has the reputation of having the friendliest residents of all the islands. Not only is the Garden Isle the most beautiful, with paradise settings often portrayed in Hollywood movies, but the feel of the island is relaxed, with a laid-back attitude that resonates in the air as much as the sweet intoxicating aroma of its plumeria. As balmy and dreamy as Kaua‘i is, it does experience a change in seasons, so make sure that you plan your activities accordingly. Actually, the entire state experiences basically two seasons. The Hawaiians named them kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). The summer months range from May through September and those of winter from October through April. Although the seasons are usually mild, you should watch out for excessive rain in the winter. In March 2006, it rained for 40 days and 40 nights, and while nobody spotted an ark in the horizon, there was massive flooding on all of the islands. Before making the famous 11-mile trek along the Näpali Coast, make sure that the skies are clear and there is no chance of rain. The change is weather also brings a change in surf.Winter months will bring large swells to the North and West shores, and the opposite goes for summer months. Heed all warnings on the beach to ensure the safety of your family. Kaua‘i’s main vein of transportation is the predominately two-lane Kaumuali‘i Highway. Named after the king, this 82-mile stretch of highway can really get backed up, especially during rush hour. And yes, paradise does have a rush hour. About 62,000 people live on this over five million year old “Fantasy Island,” and 36,800 residents drive. So to avoid any unwanted stress in paradise, make sure to schedule your road trips around peak travel hours. Aside from this, don’t worry if you need to get from one side of the island to the other, as you could do so in about 90 minutes. So if you like the idea of visiting Waimea Canyon, but would rather stay in the quaint and convenient town of Kapa‘a, near award- winning restaurants and cool boutiques, go ahead, as the average commute time to most places is 30 minutes. Kaua‘i has 552 square miles of diverse terrain, which making it the fourth largest island in the eight-island chain. Obviously, good things come in small land mass. Once you have experienced the diversity and the beauty of each town and its attractions, you will soon agree that the Garden Isle is the best island, offering all the elements of a perfect vacation—rural enough to get away, yet a stone’s throw away from indulgence. Perfect. E komo mai. Nou ka hale (Come inside, the house is yours). 28

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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aimea Canyon is nature’s champion when it comes to miles of unspoiled vistas. Deep valleys and red precipitous cliffs etched by waterfalls that tumble from great heights, the state park is a natural pageantry. Many believe the great gulch is akin to Arizona’s famous geologic site, which is why it’s dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” But this phrase actually makes geologists cringe because the two landmarks were formed in different manners and their size, of course, is incomparable. Though it’s difficult to measure its exact breadth, Waimea Canyon is estimated to be around 12 to 13 miles long, between 1 and 3 miles wide, and around 3,600 feet deep. The historic wonder began forming by volcanic eruptions when Kauaÿi was born about five million years ago. Since that time, earthquakes, erosion and rainwater contributed to the many peaks and basins you see today. Waimea River (“Waimea” means “reddish”) continues to chip away at the canyon and another 500,000 years from now, things could appear quite different. Located on the westside of Kauaÿi, this masterpiece of nature is not to be missed. Even if you’re

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

staying on the opposite end of the island, the scenery is so spectacular and unlike anything else in the state, it’s worth a visit. That said, be prepared for the approximate 19-mile and 4,000-foot climb to the end of the road that maneuvers through Kökeÿe. And don’t forget to include how long it takes just to get to the quaint country town of Waimea. The best time to set out on your adventure is as early as possible. For one thing, you’ll have ample parking opportunities, as most people venture out in the early afternoon. Another reason is that you’ll be able to enjoy the lookouts without the hustle and bustle of crowds. And, finally, it’s the best opportunity to see Kalalau Valley at the top of your journey, since clouds often settle in by the afternoon. Don’t forget to have plenty of fuel in your vehicle’s tank, or for that matter your belly, before making the trek. Consider grabbing some local flavors like ÿahi poke (raw fish salad) to take with you from an enterprise like Ishihara Market in Waimea. There are many sights to see and the time it takes to hit all of the highlights is much more pleasant when you’re prepared for the long haul.

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Once you arrive in the paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) themed town of Waimea, hang a right past the historic movie theatre onto Waimea Canyon Drive or Highway 550. This is the same paved road that will lead you through the canyon and Kökeÿe State Park. The drive alone is spectacular, but you’re going to want to get out of your car at least once to really embrace the hidden gems this Garden Isle treasure bestows. Lookouts are a great place to soak in the beauty. Shortly after the highway merges into Kökeÿe Road, you’ll come across the Waimea Canyon Lookout a little past mile marker 10. This is one of the first locations you can stretch your legs and have a good look around at the panoramic scenery. Also, Puÿu Hinahina Lookout between mile marker 13 and 14, offers a different vantage point of the canyon where you’ll edge even closer toward the prominent Waipoÿo Falls. Please remember that if any of the parking lots are full, don’t park along the main highway. This is dangerous, especially because the twisty road creates blind spots and hasty drivers might not see what’s around the corner until it’s too late. Finally, Puÿu o Kila Lookout, at the end of the road where the air is crisp and cozy, just past Kökeÿe Lodge and the museum, is the grand finale of scenic sentinels. This is where an unbelievable view of Kalalau Valley is bequeathed to all who are lucky enough to see its tropical display. Before reaching this denouement, however, there are many other ways to enjoy everything in between. Short walks including the Iliau Nature Loop, named after the native flowering plant that dominates the path between mile markers 8 and 9, is a lovely way to acclimate to the canyon and gain a brief respite from your car without having to embark on a long hike. Footpaths that involve more physically ambitious endeavors include the Canyon Trail, located between mile markers 13 and 14. Not only does this hike present outstanding scenery that you won’t get from the road or any lookout, you can perch atop the some 800-foot tall Waipoÿo Falls. Just be careful with your footing near the halfway point of this more than 3-mile roundtrip hike, as the path is unstable and requires extreme caution. Other trails for more gung-ho hikers further up the road comprise 36

of Awaÿawapuhi and Nuÿalolo. While they each descend about oneand-a-half miles to breathtaking views of the Näpali Coast, they also require a hearty climb back to your car. Nuÿalolo has more challenging and tricky areas to traverse than Awaÿawapuhi, but each equally demands hikers be in top physical shape to attempt. Another attractive option for the athletically inclined is the Pihea Trail, which connects to the Alakaÿi Swamp Trail. It’s here you’ll get the best feel for what Hawaiian native forests were once like prior to human arrival some 1,600 years ago. Endemic birds and plants dominate the paths and, the farther you go, the more isolated and peaceful it gets. Just make sure to stay on the designated path so you don’t spread any invasive debris into the pristine forest. At the end of the Alakaÿi Swamp Trail, the Kilohana Lookout offers an outstanding view of Hanalei Bay. But by the afternoon, clouds often take over this vantage point so don’t be disappointed if you travel the 4 hearty miles there only to gain a few feet of visibility. Remember, the journey is half the fun. Before heading out on any hikes, however, make sure you have plenty of water, proper attire and snacks. Double-check the weather as well. None of these activities are enjoyable, especially in Kökeÿe, when you’re sloshing through ankle deep mud. Even if it’s sunny in Waimea, pack rain gear and a jacket, as the sweltering heat below is rarely an indication of what’s going on several thousand feet above sea level. A great place to pick up literature and find out more information about the hikes and activities in this untouched region is at Kökeÿe Museum between mile markers 15 and 16. Spend time perusing this rustic repository and stop by next door at Kökeÿe Lodge for a mocha latte at Little Fish Coffee or a bowl of Portuguese bean soup at the restaurant. Moreover, Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow offers a wonderful place for relaxation and partaking in that ÿahi poke you were smart enough to bring along. Waimea Canyon and Kökeÿe State Parks are a flawless blend of Kauaÿi majesty that you would be remiss to bypass during your vacation, and the number of natural works of art you’ll discover here are endless. Visit kokee.org for more information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Discover Kauai with Safari Helicopters The People'sChoice Since 1987

Preston Myers, owner/pilot of Safari Helicopters, has radically changed the helicopter industry throughout the State of Hawaii. Safari was the first company in the State of Hawaii to fly air tours in the comfort of an air-conditioned ASTAR 350 B aircraft and the first to offer a two-way communication system between passengers and pilot. They were also the first company to install and operate an FAA approved multiple video camera system with high quality digital cameras to record the passengers’ actual tour, capturing the music, and live narration. Along with introducing new and innovative ways to improve the entire helicopter tour experience, Safari was also the first operator in the State to fly the higher performance ASTAR 350 B2 helicopters introduced in 1991. Nowadays, Safari flys the Super ASTAR 350 B2-7 which features a left side pilot seat configuration allowing for a better view when flying clockwise around the island, higher performance, more reliability, and more passenger leg room… another ‘first’. These aircrafts are now equipped with “Mega” windows offering almost 40% increased visibility. Safari was also the first to initiate the production of the “Safari Skylight” ceiling windows to open up the skies above for an awesome view of Mt. Waialeale Crater. Preston Myers, one of the island’s most experienced pilots with more than 40 years in aviation, started flying at Mt. San Antonio College near Pomona, California prior to the Scan this tag on your Vietnam conflict. He then smartphone and start saving today! graduated with a degree in aviation before entering the U.S. Navy. Myers recently retired from the Naval Reserves as a Commander (0-5). After active duty with the US Navy, Myers returned to Southeast Asia as a civilian and flew for the infamous “Air America” flying throughout safarihelicopters.com Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and South Vietnam on Get the free mobile app at http://gettag.mobi quasi-military secret missions. He continued his

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adventures by relocating to Singapore, the international trading capital of the world. He flew on oil exploration projects throughout the Indonesian Archipelago of Borneo, Sumatra, Java, Celebes, and Irian Jaya (Dutch New Guinea) conducting extensive external loading operations moving oil drilling rigs piece by piece to remote site locations. Preston maintained his flying proficiency with the Naval Reserves as Executive Officer for a combat search and rescue squadron based at NAS North Island, flying the H-3A helicopter. It didn’t take him long to realize he was not meant for a threepiece suit or freeway traffic jams and moved his family to Hawaii. If you are interested in flightseeing Kauai with a small, family-owned company that offers you professional and caring service, Family owned and operated then fly with Preston Myers or one of From our family to yours…Escape your his highly qualified pilots. Myers is reality and join ours as we take you on a truly concerned about his passentour into the heart of the Garden Island. gers’ safety and believes in the axiom, “There are old pilots and there are bold pilots, but there are no old bold pilots.” Safari Helicopter Tours is a Certified Part 135 air carrier, Part 133 External-load Operator, and is also authorized under Part 137. Safari Helicopters not only has sightseeing tour experience but has conducted contracts with the US Navy and was DOD AMC authorized, Inter-Agency qualified to fly US Government personnel with several years experience fire-fighting on the US Mainland. Overall, no other company in Hawaii has this kind of experience. Tours vary depending on weather, 48 hr. cancellation, Weight restrictions apply. Call 808-246-0136 or toll-free 808-326-3356 for more information. Tours are also available on the Big Island in Hilo at 808-969-1259. Email: info@safarihelicopters.com, Web: www.safarihelicopters.com

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CANOE PLANTS The Polynesian voyagers' survival kit for life in a new land. WORDS COCO ZICKOS

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ncient mariners from Polynesia traversed the vast Pacific more than 1,000 years ago in double-hulled canoes using only nature, like the stars, to guide them. These brave voyagers crossed uncharted oceanic territory sans instruments and, yet, were able to discover one of the most remote landmasses on Earth, the Hawaiian Islands. Among the things these savvy sailors brought with them in order to survive the journey, as well as settle in new territory, were the roots, seeds and cuttings of the plants they used to sustain life. These “canoe plants” were a source of food, medicine and served an array of other resourceful purposes like bedding and mats. And while they aren’t endemic to Hawaiÿi, these species are considered indigenous, or native, because they were—and still are—revered by the native inhabitants. “Canoe plants are a part of the botanical tool kit of the Polynesian peoples,” says Dr. Kawika Winter, director of the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s Limahuli Garden and Preserve. “They not only ensured the survival of human populations on previously-uninhabited islands, but they were also the vehicles for the perpetuation of culture. This is because these plants are infused with a multitude of stories that convey cultural identity and protocols, and are core to the Polynesian identity.”

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‘ULU

Breadfruit is one of the most highly esteemed of the canoe plants, particularly on Kauaÿi where it is said to have been brought by the Tahitian voyager, Mo‘ikeha, who later became aliÿi nui (high chief) of the island, according to Winter. The plant symbolizes the Hawaiian war god, Kü. Legend has it that Kü once lived in human form as a farmer whose family suffered from famine. He couldn’t stand watching his wife and children starve so he planted himself in the ground. His wife cultivated the spot where he was buried until a sprout grew and turned into a breadfruit tree that was able to nourish and sustain them again. “The origin story teaches young males the role of a man in the context of his family,” says Winter. The edible portion of the plant is a carbohydrate loaded with vitamins and nutrients. The big bulbs of fruit can be harvested while green when they are in the form of a starch, akin to a potato, or when fully ripened, at which point the starch turns to sugar. The tree was also used in a variety of other ways, similar to other canoes plants, such as medicine, clothing and building canoes.

KALO

Another staple of the Hawaiian diet steeped in mythology is taro. Taro patches (loÿi) abound along the wetlands of Hanalei. Here, the plant is harvested to make various food products like poi, the fermented and pounded root of the plant. The leaves of taro, which are also edible, are heart-shaped and its thick bulbous root, or corm, has a characteristic purple tint. To Hawaiians, kalo represents the “staff of life.” Their creation story centers around the gods, Wäkea and Hoÿohokuikalani, whose firstborn, Häloanakalaukapalili, did not survive. Where the baby was buried, a kalo plant subsequently grew. Their second child, named Häloa in honor of their firstborn, was a healthy boy who the Hawaiian people are believed to be the descendants of. The younger Häloa went on to nurture the kalo that sprouted from his older brother. The story is a reminder that the Earth will provide if nourished and nurtured.

‘AWAPUHI KUAHIWI

As you hike through the rainforests of the island, you might pick up the spicy scent of this plant, commonly known as “shampoo ginger.” The reason it was given this nickname is that when the red flower heads are broken, the contents, though slimy, create a lovely smelling shampoo and conditioner for hair. Aside from a hair product and natural skin moisturizer, the root of the plant was used medicinally to treat ailments like toothaches. The plant is said to be a form of Käne, the god of creation.

IPU

Grown and used for practical purposes, like water storage and containers to place items like food or fish bait, is the gourd. Ipu, which grows on a vine and is related to squash, has a thick skin and center that’s scooped out so it can be used in various ways, including musical instruments such as rattles or drums. The Hawaiian god, Lono, is said to embody this plant. Yet, one of the species’ most interesting legends is that it was traditionally sowed just before the full moon following the rainy season by a pot-bellied man, who had eaten a large meal—symbolic of the forthcoming similarly shaped plant.

KŌ

Sugar cane has become synonymous with the plantation era in Hawaiÿi, but the plant prevailed on the islands long before it was a commodity. The Hawaiians used its sweetness for many purposes including masking the bitter taste of plant medicine. Juices from its thick stalk were also used to sweeten desserts. The stalky grass, which was considered another physical form of the Hawaiian god, Käne, served many functional purposes like fashioning the interior of homes.

KĪ

Clusters of long, smooth leaves grow from this tall, skinny ti plant, which can be found around the island and along several trails where they prefer to grow in damp, shady spaces. The plant, which comes in a variety of emerald green, pink or ruby red colors, is sacred to Hawaiians and the god of agriculture and fertility, Lono. Its leaves were used to make capes, sandals, and, to this day, hula skirts. They are also commonly used as part of religious ceremonies, worn as lei or clothing by kahuna (priest) and serving as protection against evil—one reason you’ll also find them growing around people’s homes. Where you’ll notice the glossy leaves, besides twisted and woven into lei, is wrapped around food like laulau (steamed meat). While they are not edible like taro, the versatile leaves make all-natural plates, as well as casing for cooking and food storage.

KUKUI

The candlenut tree grows abundantly around the island. It’s easy to identify Hawaiÿi’s state tree in a thick forest due to its silvery leaves. The kukui nut was, and still is, prized. You may have, in fact, been greeted by a kukui nut lei when you arrived on island (once an act reserved only for aliÿi or royalty). Besides decoration, however, the nut was used by ancients to treat afflictions, and often served as a laxative. Eat too many of these nuts, like many have accidentally done while hiking and, much to your chagrin, you’ll discover why. One of the nut’s most prominent uses, however, and the reason for acquiring its “candlenut” nickname, was to light torches or natural lamps with its oil. Like other canoe plants, the tree represented a Hawaiian deity. They believed Kamapuaÿa, the pig demigod, could change into a kukui tree and if you look closely, the tree’s leaves resemble the shape of a hog’s head.

WAUKE

Life wouldn’t have been the same for the Hawaiians without this essential plant. The bark of the paper mulberry tree was pounded to create kapa, or tapa cloth. This ultimately resulted in clothing, bedding and other day-to-day essentials. The intricate process of tapa creation involved soaking the bark, as well as a lengthy process of beating the wood and intermittently drying it. To make the finished product unique, stamps with natural dyes were used to give the cloth a signature design. Many other canoe plants accompanied the ancient settlers, including ÿuala (sweet potato), niu (coconut palm), maiÿa (banana), ÿöhiÿa ÿai, (mountain apple) and ÿohe, (bamboo). Each species served a physical and spiritual purpose and continues to have an impact on the native culture. One of the best places to see and learn about canoe plants is the National Tropical Botanical Garden. Visit the nonprofit’s website ntbg.org for more information.

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New Limited Edition handbags made by skilled American artisans using Italian enameled leather. Less than 25 handbags of each style created. Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.

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Na Hoku's Waterfall Collection comes in several styles and sizes and is available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold. Located at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops, Po‘ipu Shopping Village or NaHoku.com.

Peace Love World’s fun and exclusive designs featuring the Aloha Tee, Aloha Shorts, and Aloha Hoodie. Luxuriously relaxed and casually elegant, Oasis captures the pleasures of the resort life and the spirit of gracious Hawaiian living. Step into Oasis and allow yourself to be transported into the relaxed, fun, and inviting environment of a beachside cottage. Call (808) 742-8555 or visit shopsofhawaii.com

New Koa-Stainless Steel watch with Swiss movement and Sapphire crystal (left). Also shown (below right), Tahitian pearl and Koa double strand necklace (right) Available at Martin & MacArthur in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula.

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The Golden pearl yellow gold lariat necklace (right) is a Van Balen trademark design. The founder & chief designer Valerie Van Balen has enjoyed creating this particular piece for over ten years. Available also in white gold, this popular design can be customized for you in any South Sea pearl combination of your choice. The diamond hoop earrings (above) are a staple in every woman's fine jewelry wardrobe. With white diamonds set in yellow or white gold, you can enjoy wearing these elegant earrings everyday! Also available in Tahitian black or South Sea white pearls. The pearl cuff bracelet (left) has quickly become a favorite among our elite clients, as well as our staff! This statement bracelet will definitely get noticed. White diamonds in yellow or white gold, as well as South Sea pearls of your choice. Available at Van Balen Fine Jewelry in The St. Regis Princeville Resort.

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ISLAND SHOPPING NORTH SHORE SHOPPING VAN BALEN FINE JEWELRY Our internationally renowned pearl jewelry is hand made on Kaua‘i by Valerie Van Balen, crafted with exquisite attention to detail. In addition to her own creations, Valerie has traveled the globe discovering other world class jewelers, whom she now represents. This allows for a virtual “around the world” shopping experience, all within one relaxing location. We welcome you to visit our store and adorn yourself in our exotic pearl jewelry from Tahiti, Australia and Indonesia. We also carry an enticing selection of ethical diamonds in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. Our highly educated staff will provide you with flawless service, guaranteed. Enhance your visit to Kaua‘i by selecting from an unsurpassed collection of fine jewelry. Van Balen Fine Jewelry is the exclusive jeweler to the prestigious St. Regis Princeville Resort, open everyday from 9am to 9pm. (808) 826-6555. SOUTH SHORE SHOPPING GRAND HYATT SHOPS The shops at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i offer something for everyone. Na Hoku features an alluring collection of Tahitian pearls and more. Collectors Fine Art showcases wall art and handblown glass creations. Lamonts carries sundries, snacks and beverages. The Sandal Tree offers a selection of footwear and accessories. Reyn’s continues its tradition of aloha wear for the whole family. Visit Poipu Bay Golf Shop for designer collections for on and off the course. Try Water Wear for beachwear for every age group. Kohala Bay Collections features casual designer elegance. MARTIN & MACARTHUR Martin & MacArthur has been making of fine Koa furniture and home furnishings longer than any company in Hawaii. It also features beautiful personal accessories made with its own private stock of Koa from the Big Island, including the only solid Koa watches, Koa sunglasses, Koa-tungsten rings for a shine that lasts forever, and Koa iPhone/iPad covers. Martin & MacArthur has the widest selection of Koa boxes, bowls, Hawaiian feather lei, canoes and weapons. Also be sure to check out the award-winning contemporary sculptures by Rock Cross. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops and The Shops at Kukui‘ula. myhawaiitraveler.com

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ValVanBalen.com THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA On the sunny south shore of Kaua‘i, nestled in the renowned resort playground of Po‘ipü, The Shops at Kukui‘ula is Kaua‘i’s premier shopping, dining and fine art destination. The Shops at Kukui‘ula features a combination of internationally and regionally recognized merchants and fine boutiques with one of a kind items. Here you will find designer originals, casual resort and beachwear, slippers and sunglasses, as well as beauty products, jewelry and other gifts which are unique to Kaua‘i. Shops include national brands and regional favorites such as Tommy Bahama, Malie Organics, Sunglass Hut, Mahina, Poipu

Surf, Quiksilver, Reyn Spooner, Crazy Shirts and Blue Ginger. The Shops at Kukui‘ula is also home to extraordinary galleries featuring a unique collection of fine art originals from Kaua‘i and Hawai‘i, as well as revolving exhibits of contemporary art, nationally recognized landscape art photography, sculpture and art objects, and a unique collection of art jewelry and handcrafted items. Galleries include the internationally acclaimed galerie 103, Halele‘a Gallery, Martin & MacArthur, Red KOI Collection, aFeinberg Gallery, Palms Gallery, Latitudes Fine Art Gallery and Scott Hanft Photography. For more information, visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. 45

STYLE

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14k gold necklace set with an Australian "pin fire" Crystal Opal and diamond accent (above). Sterling silver hand hammered double drop earring with chain link (above, right). 14k gold ring set with a rare Green Tourmaline and princess cut diamonds (right). Available at Grande's Gems at the Kauai Marriott Resort or The Shops at Kukuiâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ula.

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SOUTH SHORE & LĪHU‘E GRANDE’S GEMS Grande’s Gems Hawai‘i has been featuring nature inspired and romantic jewelry since 1982. Our guests will find fun fashionforward and elegant jewelry in opal, multicolor gemstones, diamond, Tahitian, golden and south sea pearls. Sea life and tropical flower jewelry from Denny Wong and Mikel. Visit us at Kauai Marriott Resort & Beach Club (808) 245-4860 and our newest location at The Shops at Kukui‘ula (808) 742-2828, or online at GrandesGemshawaii.com. MENS HARDWEAR Mens Hardwear is all about the guys. Jewelry, knives, watches, and accessories for men in cool and edgy styles. Featuring men’s jewelry from Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Triton, and Hellmuth. Tahitian pearl and opal designs from Mens Hardwear collection. Knives from William Henry Studio and Cold Steel. Visit us at our two locations on Kaua‘i, or shop online at menshardwear.com. NA HOKU An incomparable collection of the finest Hawaiian and Island Lifestyle jewelry for women and men; Na Hoku is recognized in Hawai‘i and the world for its exquisite islandinspired designs; from our original Hawaiian slipper (flip flop) pendant, our elegant Palm Tree Jewelry Collection, the timeless Na Hoku diamond solitaire engagement ring and bridal collections, to our extensive Plumeria Jewelry Collection and our traditional Hawaiian jewelry. Featuring unique collections by Kabana, Steven Douglas, Asch/Grossbardt, and Levian, as well as our exquisite Tahitian Pearl designs. Na Hoku jewelry captures the essence of Hawaiian and island lifestyle and is unmatched in quality and craftsmanship. Located in the Grand Hyatt Shops (808) 7421863 and Poipu Shopping Village (808) 7427025 or at nahoku.com. REAL ESTATE HŌKŪALA Höküala, A Timbers Resort, enjoys a setting among the most spectacular in all of the Hawaiian Islands, a 450-acre natural amphitheater with an unobstructed panorama from the ocean to coastline to sculpted mountains beyond. In the poetic language of native Hawaiians, Höküala means ‘Rising Star’. It is fitting, then, that this epic resort will evolve myhawaiitraveler.com

gradually, beginning with Timbers Kaua‘i - Ocean Club & Residences, a residential enclave located on the ocean's edge of the Pacific. The award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Ocean Course, already rated among the very best, features the longest stretch of continuous oceanfront holes in all of Hawai‘i. Höküala offers a rare and delicate balance between adventure and serenity, discovery and accessibility. The evolving vision is to create a place and experience that unites us all in the celebration of the island, its culure, and its people. For more information, call (808) 7206688 or (800) 269-2364. Visit them online at hokualakauai.com/traveler. KUKUI‘ULA Inspired by the authentic Kaua‘i island culture, and named for the candlenut (kukui) torches that once guided the island’s fishermen back to shore, Kukui‘ula is a Kaua‘i community that offers our homeowners the laid-back lifestyle of classic Hawai‘i. At the heart

of our carefully planned Hawai‘i luxury homes, nestled above Kukui‘ula Bay, are the Plantation House, Spa and Makai Pools. From here, the Tom Weiskopf-designed golf course follows the natural flow of the land through the community’s coffee fields, meadows and rolling hillsides — affording wide, panoramic vistas of the Pacific. Call (808) 201-0380 or visit kukuiula.com or lodgeatkukuiula.com. YVONNE SUMMERFIELD Come discover Kaua‘i real estate with Kaua‘i's Only 8 Time Top 100 Realtor and you'll discover an island paradise. Yvonne specializes in residential real estate sales throughout Kaua‘i, including luxury homes and estates, oceanfront condos, resort & second home properties, vacation rental properties and land parcels. For exceptional representation call Yvonne Summerfield at (808) 346-7251 or visit YvonneSummerfield.com.

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DESTINATIONS

THE SUNNY SOUTH PO‘IPŪ TO WAIMEA CANYON

tunnel of tall eucalyptus trees marks the gateway to Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore. Perfect weather and golden beaches make the south side of Kaua‘i a favorite hang out for both visitors and locals. Old Köloa Town is home to Hawai‘i’s first active sugar mill, the birthplace of the Hawaiian sugar industry, which was the state’s strongest economy for more than a century. Although the mill is inoperational now, the charming town thrives with activity from the many restaurants, boutiques and shops that line the wooden sidewalks. One of the best ways to really experience all the South Shore has to offer is by ATV, exploring its beautiful vistas, plantations and waterfalls. Fun! Just a couple of miles south of Köloa lies sunny Po‘ipü, a major resort destination with beachfront condos and restaurants developed around some of the best beaches on the Island. Once there, you will see why Po‘ipü Beach has been voted America’s Best Beach by the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, as Po‘ipü provides beachgoers a place to snorkel, swim, wade, boogie-board, kayak, surf and sunbathe. Swimming at all levels can be enjoyed, from the protected natural saltwater pools to the more exciting wave action for the experienced. With three bow-shaped bays, each with their own environment, Po‘ipü thrives with a multitude of marine life. Looking to satisfy the explorer in you? Then discover the secluded and diverse landscape of Mähä‘ulepü. With rugged limestone cliffs, ancient burial grounds and rocky sea caves, your journey will be unforgettable. If trekking by foot, start at Shipwreck Beach, located just east of the Hyatt. (Hint: If you see locals jumping from a 50-ft sand dune at Makawehi Point, you’re headed in the right direction.) Once in the ironwoods, you should be able to pick up the trail. If you have a 4WD and a watch, you can drive in. But

if you do drive, pay attention to the time, as the park closes at 6pm, and you don’t want to get locked in. At Prince Kühïo Park, you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He was known for spearheading the Hawaiian Homes Commission Act. This sets aside 200,000 acres of leasehold land for indigenous Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace. To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave when the tide is high. A visit to the Garden Island wouldn’t be complete without visiting a garden or two. The National Tropical Botanical Garden and the Allerton Garden are two stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. Just a little inland from the opulent coast, is the modest town of Kaläheo. Take a drive through the neighborhood and experience true island living. Stop and picnic in paradise in Kukui O Lono Park. Because the park is set up on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction, including the south coast and Läwa‘i Valley. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. By blending luxury and tradition, the South Shore of Kaua‘i is sure to provide something for everyone. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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POI‘PŪ GEMS Your guide to experiencing the best of the South. WORDS COCO ZICKOS

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

ight dances through the eucalyptus that line the historic Tree Tunnel road, providing a dazzling entryway to Kauai’s South Shore. These diamonds of sunshine sparkling through the leaves are your first indication of the kind of beauty there is to behold on this magical side of the island. Attractions abound in Poÿipü from ancient limestone shorelines and spectacular beaches to top-notch restaurants. This is also one of the best places on the island to gain some sunny respite, even when the rest of Kauaÿi is sopped. After passing under the century-old tree canopy of Maluhia Road, make a quick stop in Old Köloa Town before heading to the coast. This charming plantation village is where the sugar cane industry got its successful start. Many of the historic buildings from the 1800s remain, and they have gobs of delightful trinkets and treasures tucked within them. Before your journey continues, make sure you have a copy of the Köloa Heritage Trail map—download it at poipubeach.org. This is a great reference for hitting many of the South Shore’s finest historic gems along a 10-mile trail from Köloa to Poÿipü. Continuing past the quaint town of Köloa and its

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decorative monkeypod trees takes you closer to the beach and the cacti-strewn arid land of the South Shore. The best way to experience this unusual landscape is to head all the way toward the end of Poÿipü Road and make a right on Ainakö Street. You’ll come to Keoneloa Beach (Shipwreck Beach), named after the numerous ships that met their demise here. This is a great place to lounge, but it’s not always swimmer-friendly. Instead, grab your hiking shoes and head out toward the Mähäÿulepü Heritage Trail to encounter unbelievable South Shore vistas. This pathway is the pinnacle of the island’s southern coastline, thousands of years in the making. Lithified sand dunes resembling life-sized sandcastles tower above the swirling sea below. Don’t forget to look out for all kinds of marine life along the way, including humpback whales from November to April. Besides an opportunity to trek among the spires and crags of solidified sand, you can explore the state’s largest limestone cave, and richest fossil site, the Makauwahi Cave Reserve, at the trail’s midway 2-mile point. This is as Indiana Jones as it gets in Hawaiÿi, and with any luck, the cavern will be open so you can investigate the site.

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT) THE SHOPS AT KUKUI'ULA

Due to the desert-like clime of this region, make sure you have water and protection from the sun for this adventure. The whipping wind makes it feel cooler than it really is and you don’t want scorched skin to ruin your chance at visiting the rest of the unique South Shore locations. You could forgo the hike and, instead, soak in some sunshine by relaxing beachside with a cocktail and citrus colored umbrella. Poÿipü has the largest congregation of resort operations on the island and they have all the fruity, fun drinks you can handle, served right on the coast. Family-friendly spots to absorb the tropical climate sans cocktails are also at your fingertips, including the world-renowned Poÿipü Beach. Named by the Travel Channel as one of the planet’s best beaches, this lifeguarded bay is especially great for families. You can learn to surf from the Poÿipü Beach Surf School or show your little one the ocean ropes in the gentle waters of a nook called Baby Beach. Of course, the South Shore consists of several other coastlines, but many of them aren’t as safe and protected. No matter where you go, before dipping in, make sure to check ocean conditions. Or, skip water recreation all together and just breathe in the salty air and nestle under the shade of a palm tree to get lost in that book you’ve been meaning to read for months. Besides beautiful beaches, the South Shore is also immersed in Hawaiian historical sites and there are many places you can learn more about the culture. An ancient locale called Ke Kahua O Käneiolouma, on Hoÿowili Road, is a perfect example. You can’t miss the tall kiÿi (statues) presiding over this sacred ground that once served as a Hawaiian village where makahiki sporting events are said to have occurred. The area is still being restored by a group of hard-working volunteers who also created an easy pathway to walk and informational signage. Other hints of historical life in Poÿipü include the Prince Kühiö Park, the birthplace of Prince Jonah Kühiö Kalanianaÿole, great grandson of the last reigning king of Kauaÿi, Kaumualiÿi. The “Prince of the People” played a major political role as an advocate for Hawaiians during the early 1900s. You’ll pass this park on Läwaÿi Road while heading toward another must-see natural attraction, Spouting Horn. This is where you can gain a closer look at the famous rainbow-catching puhi, or blowhole. Legend myhawaiitraveler.com

has it that Spouting Horn is home to a giant moÿo (lizard) that got stuck in the lava tube while trying to snag a Hawaiian swimmer. The hiss and roar of the water as it swells and explodes through the top of the rocks is said to be the reptile’s breath. Almost directly across the street is the National Tropical Botanical Garden’s South Shore Visitors Center. A treat in and of itself, the tropical flora that decorate the grounds are soothing to the soul. But for even more plant-centric comfort, join a guided tour through the nonprofit’s manicured Allerton Garden or take a self-guided tour of McBryde Garden. Another perfectly pleasing way to spend your day on the South Shore is at a spa or playing a round of golf. Both can be enjoyed at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa. The quintessential Anara Spa offers luxurious treatments like Hawaiian lomilomi massages and you can spend the entire day pampering yourself lounging at the private pool and soaking in the sauna. Poipu Bay Golf Course, home of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf from 1994 to 2006, is right next door. The 18-hole course hugs the dramatic South Shore coastline and is another great way to indulge your senses. Satiating your hunger pangs is also an easy task in Poÿipü, as it’s home to some of the best restaurants on the island. The Shops at Kukuiÿula, for example, has options like Merriman’s Fish House, which specializes in freshly caught gourmet fish entrées, and Eating House 1849 by Roy Yamaguchi, which serves delectable Asian Pacific fare. The locally owned establishment, Kukuiÿula Market, also has tasty eateries tucked inside like Makai Sushi and Anakë’s Juice Bar. Just down the street, Holoholo Grill at Koloa Landing Resort recently opened with a delicious menu by Sam Choy. Or, try some shave ice served in coconut bowls at Loco Coco just outside the market. If you happen to visit Poÿipü on Wednesday, a weekly popular hotspot is the Kauaÿi Culinary Market from 3:30 to 6 p.m. at The Shops at Kukuiÿula. Mango, papaya, pineapple and all kinds of freshly made goodies are available. Plus, many stores at this outdoor mall sell locally crafted keepsakes that make ideal gifts for family and friends. Poÿipü is profoundly different from any other place on Kauaÿi and visiting its main attractions is bound to bring a little sunshine, figuratively and literally speaking, into your life. 53

GOLF

GOLF KAUA‘I Teeing it up on the island of Kaua‘i means negotiating pristine fairways, tropical landscapes and beautiful ocean vistas. But don’t let this natural beauty distract you, as the Garden Isle offers up some of the true tests of the game that will challenge your skills, and concentration. 54

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MAKAI GOLF CLUB

The Makai Golf Club at Princeville has long been considered one of Hawai‘i’s premier golf facilities. The distinct layout of the course strategically winds around serene lakes and native woodlands, while capitalizing on spectacular coastline views. With the recent renovation by original architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. complete, the course is now open for play! For reservations and information, please call (808) 826-1912 for tee times or visit makaigolf.com.

POIPU BAY GOLF COURSE

Sprawled between lush mountains and rugged ocean cliffs on Kaua‘i’s sunny South Shore, Poipu Bay Golf Course boasts 18 championship holes that are as visually stunning as they are challenging. Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Poipu Bay is one of the most highly acclaimed resort courses in the Pacific. From 1994-2006, the course played host to the annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf, one of the most prestigious tournaments in the golf world. A round at Poipu Bay Golf Course affords you the opportunity to experience the sheer pleasures and daunting challenges of a course recognized as one of America’s finest and to “play where champions play.” Call (808) 742-8711 or visit poipubaygolf.com.

experienceTroon Golf At the Princeville Makai Golf Club

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ONE OF THE “TOP 5 GREAT GOLF SETTINGS” IN THE U.S. —National Geographic Traveler

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“#65 ON A MERICA’S 100 GREATEST PUBLIC GOLF COURSES” —Golf Digest, 2015/2016

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ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE ISLAND The spirit of adventure thrives on the Garden Isle with secret waterfalls, beaches and hiking trails to excite the explorer in all of us. With so much to discover in the vast ocean, valleys, parks and rivers, the choices are endless and the unmatched beauty is complimentary. 56

KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

ADVENTURE

ADVENTURE GUIDE AIR TOURS JACK HARTER HELICOPTERS

Jack Harter is the Originator of Helicopter Tours on Kaua‘i. Jack’s motto is “Imitated by All, Equaled by None!” All of the employees at Jack Harter Helicopters work to carry on Jack’s reputation of providing safe, high quality tours that become cherished memories. Choose a 60 or 90 minute narrated tour offered in two types of helicopters. Their luxurious, air-conditioned, 6-passenger Eurocopter AStar features huge floor-toceiling windows for unsurpassed visibility and a two-way intercom system with BOSE noise canceling headsets. Adventurous travelers who seek a little more excitement may want to consider a flight in one of Jack Harter Helicopters’ 4-passenger Hughes 500 helicopters which are flown with the DOORS OFF. FAA Part 135 Certified. Call (808) 245-3774 or helicopters-kauai.com.

SAFARI HELICOPTERS

Safari Helicopters is family owned and was founded in 1987 by Preston Myers, retired commander in the U.S. Naval Reserves. Voted #1 as the Best Helicopters Air Tour Company on Kaua‘i and People #1 Choice. The first to coin the phrase, “Cadillac of Helicopters” due to the ASTAR 350B2 helicopter’s luxury comfort and floor to ceiling window front and back for unsurpassed visibility. Featuring the BOSE X noise cancellation stereo headsets and FAA Approved multiple camera system to record a video of the passenger’s actual tour. After over 20 years of service, Safari Helicopters continues to offer FAA Part 135 Certified flightseeing tours on two major Hawaiian Islands – Kaua‘i and the Big Island. Most of our full time pilots are military veterans; have Airline Transport Pilots License (ATPL) the highest level of certification by the FAA. Reservations (808) 246-0136 or 800-326-3356 or safarihelicopters.com.

SUNSHINE HELICOPTERS

Experience Kaua‘i’s hidden wonders that can only be discovered from the air. See areas where no one has ever set foot. Your tour will include famous areas that make Kaua‘i a favorite location for Hollywood filmmakers. You will see lush valleys dotted with waterfalls, colorful Waimea Canyon and the impenetrable Näpali Coast known for its towering razor sharp cliffs and secluded beaches. Depart from Lï‘hue Heliport or the exclusive Princeville Heliport. Call (808) 245-5953.

EXPLORE KAUA‘I ATV TOURS

Venture into Kaua‘i’s lush, tropical paradise on the back of a semi-automatic, easy to use All Terrain Vehicle. Choose one of our daily ATV expeditions through the gorgeous mountains of Kaua‘i’s south side for an unforgettable experience on the road less traveled. Ride your own ATV on 22,000 acres of private dirt roads and trails. Enjoy breathtaking mountain and coastline views, unspoiled tropical landscapes inaccessable to the general public and a half mile tunnel through the heart of the Ha‘upu mountain range. Come join us for the ultimate off-road adventure. Call (808) 742-2734.

KIPU RANCH ADVENTURES

We are proud to be one of the top eco-tours in Hawai‘i. We enable visitors and residents alike to discover the rich history, landscape and legends that make Kaua‘i unique. Guests return to us year after year because of our enthusiastic dedication to high standards of quality and service. Adventure lovers enjoy the thrills of our ATVs while nature lovers and photography enthusiasts enjoy our Rhino and Ranger passenger tours. We also cater to private groups, families, companies and weddings. Spend a few hours with us and see why we are the number one ATV tour in Hawaii! You will be deeply moved by your experience of genuine aloha, history and tropical adventure. Call (808) 246-9288 or visit kiputours.com.

KOLOA ZIPLINE

Come experience the breathtaking beauty of Köloa; from the beauty of the natural settings to the preservation of the rich history of the land. Travel through and above a variety of ecosystems located on Grove Farm lands on 8 fantastic ziplines. Watch the sun set on our Sunset Tour and fly hands free over the jungle like your favorite super hero in our custom upgradeable Flyin’ Kauai’an Harness. Brave the island’s longest lines at Koloa Zipline! Call (808) 742-2734 or visit koloazipline.com.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MULTI-YEAR WINNER!

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Off-Island Toll-Free: 1.888.245.2001 FAA Part 135 Certified | 4231 Ahukini Road, Lihue, HI 96766 Tour paths will vary according to weather conditions. Weight Restrictions Apply. 24-Hour Cancellation Notice Required.

ADVENTURE SNORKEL, SAIL & SURF BLUE DOLPHIN CHARTERS

The highlight of any vacation has to be a Kaua‘i Näpali Coast sailing tour, sailing down the Näpali with dolphins surfing at the bow of your catamaran, is the ultimate in ecotourism and adventure travel. We offer the best ocean sightseeing experience and whale watching tours of any charter boat company in the Hawaiian Islands. Our Kaua‘i sailing tours also venture to Ni‘ihau, The Forbidden Island, and along the shores of Po‘ipü Beach for a romantic sunset sail. Everyone enjoys scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing, and the true spirit of aloha from our experienced, fun loving, crew. (808) 335-5553. Visit us online at kauaiboats.com. Located in Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele.

HAWAIIAN SURFING ADVENTURES

We provide quality surf instruction in beautiful Hanalei Bay, Kaua‘i, creating the memory of a lifetime. What makes us stand out from the competition? Our surf instructors are lifeguard certified, the lessons include top of the line surf boards and leashes/custom rash guards and our instructors are all big wave riders themselves. Yet, they know how to make sure your experience is fun while you accomplish your goal of surfing. Call us today at (808) 482-0749.

HOLOHOLO CHARTERS

The memories should last a lifetime, not the trip getting there. Our two boats, Leila and Holo Holo, get you to the action quicker than anybody else, so you have more time to snorkel, sightsee, relax and enjoy the pristine waters and spectacular cliffs of Kaua‘i’s Näpali Coast, and the “forbidden island” of Ni‘ihau. We offer morning snorkel sails along the Näpali Coast with an optional tour to Ni‘ihau. We also offer romantic Näpali sunset sails in the evening. Located in the Port Allen Marina Center in Elee‘le. Call (808) 335-0815 for reservations or visit us online at holoholocharters.com.

KAUA‘I SEA TOURS

Kaua‘i Sea Tours is unique among the boat tour operators on Kaua‘i, as they offer both traditional catamaran tours and adventurous zodiac boat tours of the Näpali Coast. Both tours are run by experienced boat captains, who are educated on Kaua‘i wildlife, conservation and history. Come aboard Kaua‘i Sea Tours for a “can’t miss” adventure! Take advantage of our unique permits to land on the Näpali Coast and hike into an ancient Hawaiian Fishing Village. Enjoy our delicious, catered lunch on board and view some of the most diverse marine life in Hawai‘i. We’ve been granted a State Parks Special Use Permit, which means you’ll see remote beaches where others can’t go. Tours depart from Port Allen Marina Center in Ele‘ele, 4353 Wai‘alo Rd. Ste 2B-3B. Call (808) 826-7254 for reservations.

SNORKEL BOB’S

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Rx receptive in a minute. The MoflO2 & MoflO2RS snorkels with double valve twin chambers clear easy and deliver fresh-air on every breath. Sumo™ Mask & Bigfoots™ fins (15-17) for the mongo among you. Boogie boards, beach chairs & FREE 24-HOUR INTERISLAND GEAR RETURN. Book 2 seats on most activities and get a FREE Boogie Board for the week. Open 8 to 5 Every Day. Located in Kapa‘a (808)823-9433 and Koloa (808)742-2206, or visit snorkelbob.com.

ATTRACTIONS NORTH SIDE ALAKA‘I WILDERNESS PRESERVE

The Alaka‘i Wilderness area is a mystical rainforest in the high plateau near Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale and is home to some of Hawai‘i’s rarest plants and endangered birds. On clear days, you can see breathtaking views of Hanalei and Wainiha valleys. The park includes nature trails and a boardwalk over marshy terrain to explore the most interior park in Kaua‘i. The Alaka‘i Swamp is 10 miles long and two miles wide. Wear appropriate hiking clothes (bring a sweater) and shoes. The boardwalk can be very slippery, wet and muddy at times. The trail ends at the vista of Kilohana on the edge of Wainiha Pali. Located off Hwy 550 adjacent to Köke‘e State Park. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather info in Köke‘e or hawaiitrails.org.

DRY AND WET CAVES

Maniniholo Dry Cave is said to have been dug out by Manini-holo, the chief fisherman of the Menehune in search of an evil spirit who stole the fish intended for the Menehunes. Scientifically, sea caves are formed by ocean waves pounding away at the lava for thousands of years. The grotto is covered with fern and vines and is located across Hä‘ena Beach Park off Rte. 560. Waikapala‘e Wet Cave and Waikanaloa Wet Cave are the remains of an ancient lava tube created by the forces of the sea. The cold water in the caves is fed by underground springs and the level of water depends on the tides. The caverns are said to have been used as a gathering place for chiefs in ancient times. Swimming is not recommended due to the presence of leptospirosis found in fresh water. Wear appropriate shoes to prevent injury from the slippery lava rock. Located western end of Rte. 560. Both wet caves are located just before mile marker #10 on the left, past Hä‘ena Beach Park.

HANALEI VALLEY OVERLOOK

More than beautiful, the Hanalei Valley is mystical, magical and substantial, with spectacular vistas and a half-mile patchwork of taro ponds. The fertile and ancient kalo lo‘i (the flooded taro fields) of Hanalei have fed the Hawaiians since the first Polynesians arrived here over a thousand years ago. Currently, it still produces most of the state’s taro for poi, a Hawaiian staple. You can see the 900-acre National Wildlife Refuge from the overlook. Located on Hwy 56 in Princeville.

KĪLAUEA LIGHTHOUSE

A National Historic Landmark, this lighthouse had the largest clamshell lens of any lighthouse in the world and served as a beacon since it was built in 1913 to guide passing sea and air traffic. The light was replaced in the 1970s with a low-maintenance light beacon. You can walk into the lighthouse but not the lantern room. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am4pm. Call (808) 828-0168.

KĪLAUEA POINT NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

A refuge for several species of seabirds, some nesting and some endangered, surrounds the lighthouse. Red-footed boobies, Laysan albatrosses, wedge-tailed shearwaters and the magnificent frigate bird with 7½foot wingspan are just some examples of birds that can be seen at the refuge. Make reservations for the twohour guided hikes through the refuge, available Monday through Thursday. Located on Kïlauea Lighthouse Rd. Open daily 10am-4pm. Admission is $3 per person; children under 16 are free. Call (808) 828-0168.

LIMAHULI GARDENS

Beautiful botanical garden in a lush tropical valley is used to preserve native flora and fauna in its natural environment. It is also home to endangered plants. Built by early inhabitants, you can walk through the lava terraces and see the working taro patches in the ancient Hawaiian tradition. Reservations are required for guided tours. Self-guided tours are $15 for adults and free for children 12 and under. Wear comfortable walking shoes; umbrellas are provided (mosquito repellant may be necessary). Open Tuesday-Friday from 9:30am-4pm. Located on Rte 560 in Hä‘ena. Call (808) 826-1053 or ntbg.org.

NĀPALI COAST AND STATE PARK

The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek through the spectacular Näpali Coast. From Kë‘ë to Hanakäpï‘ai Beach is about 2 miles. There is an uneven trail (for the physically fit) to a waterfall and freshwater river pool about 2 additional miles back of the Hanakäpï‘ai Valley. The park consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, high sea cliffs, lush valleys and amazing views. The hike beyond Hanakäpï‘ai can be strenuous and is suitable for experienced hikers only. There are several campsites in the park, but make plans well in advance since permits are limited and the wait list can be long. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is at the end of Hwy 56. Call (808) 274-3444 or visit hawaii.gov/dlnr/dsp/fees.html for camping information.

WAI‘OLI MISSION HOUSE

Built in 1837, the missionary home is set in beautiful Hanalei Valley and was restored by descendants of the first missionaries Lucy and Abner Wilcox. The house was restored in 1921 by the granddaughter and houses historical furnishings made from koa wood. Located off Kuhio Hwy. Free. Open Tues., Thurs., and Sat. 9am-3pm. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

KAUAIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LONGEST OFFROAD ADVENTURE!

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EAST SIDE FERN GROTTO

A beautiful, natural amphitheater of volcanic rock covered with enormous fishtail ferns, is the venue of choice for many weddings. The only way to reach the Fern Grotto is either to kayak upriver or book a boat ride. The latter has the reputation of being a bit cheeky and a tourist trap, but if you don’t feel like the exercise then be prepared to sing along. Nevertheless, you will enjoy the lush, tropical scenery along the way. Located in Wailua River State Park.

KAMOKILA HAWAIIAN VILLAGE

An authentic recreation of an ancient Hawaiian folk village illustrates ancient Hawaiian lifestyle on 3 acres of private land. The last king of Kaua‘i once resided here. Several huts and displays show how ancient Hawaiians lived, including a courtyard featuring Hawaiian games, such as spear throwing and Hawaiian bowling, which were essential in building skills. Admission: $5 adults, $3 children for self-guided tours. Located on the east shore of the Wailua River Valley at 6060 Kuamo‘o Road (Rte 580) across from Öpaeka‘a Falls. Call (808) 8230559. 62

KEĀHUA ARBORETUM

The serene 30-acre refuge with streams and freshwater pools is a perfect setting for a picnic surrounded by mountains and lush foliage. The arboretum is divided by the stream and has a variety of foliage including monkeypods, mango, eucalyptus trees, ‘öhi‘a lehua and hibiscus. Picnic areas and pavilions can be found throughout the area for your enjoyment. There are two short hiking trails through the park. You can access the trailheads for Kuilau-Ridge Trail (incredible views from this trail) and the Moalepe Trail from this area. Open sunrise to sunset. Located down the road from the Wailua Reservoir on Hwy 580. Call (808) 241-4463.

ŌPAEKA‘A FALLS

This beautiful waterfall is the easiest to view, as it tumbles out of the jungle into a dramatic plunge over a high cliff about a 150-feet into the Wailua River. The name means "rolling shrimp," for the days when swarms of shrimp were seen rolling in turbulent waters at the base of the falls. The best time to view the cascading falls is mid-morning, and the best view is from the path along the highway. Located in Wailua off Hwy 56 on Kuamo’o Rd (Rte. 580) at mile marker 6.

ROYAL BIRTHSTONES

Royalty came to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the sacred birthstones of Pöhaku Ho‘ohönau. According to legend, if the child was to become a great chief, the heavens would rupture with thunder and lightning followed by rain. When the baby’s umbilical cord fell off, it was wrapped in kapa (cloth made from bark) and placed in the crevices of the Pöhaku Piko for safekeeping. Located Kuamo‘o Rd. (Rte. 580) in Wailua River State Park.

SLEEPING GIANT VIEWPOINT

This formation on Mt. Nounou that sort of resembles a giant is a landmark between Wailua and Kapa‘a. There are several myths and legends surrounding the Sleeping Giant. According to one, the villagers tricked a giant named Puni into eating stones to keep him from eating all the fish and taro, and he fell asleep with a full tummy, never to wake again. Mount Nounou Trail is about a two-mile trek through the forest to the summit of the Sleeping Giant’s belly with spectacular views of the Island and sometimes, O‘ahu can be seen 110 miles east. The hiking trail begins on Haleilio Road. To view the Sleeping Giant, look for the sign marking the viewing area near the Chevron station in Kapa‘a. Located off Hwy 56. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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ADVENTURE WAILUA RIVER STATE PARK

A popular place to spend a day for the wide range of activities, as well as the lush scenery of tropical foliage, Wailua River is the only navigable river in the state. Activities in the park include water skiing, kayaking, hiking trails, famous waterfalls, the Fern Grotto, an ancient Hawaiian Village, and seven sacred heiau and historic landmarks. At the mouth of the river, ancient petroglyph carvings on large stones can be seen depending on the amount of sand in the area. Once the banks were a favorite dwelling place for high chiefs and kings of Kaua‘i. If you want to kayak on your own without a guide, only three kayak rental companies rent kayaks for the Wailua River. Kayakers should stay on the right side of the river. No guided kayak tours are available on Sundays. Wailua River is located off Kuhio Hwy. Scenic views and historic sites can be accessed from Kuamo‘o Rd. Call (808) 241-4463

LI‘HUĒ & SOUTH SIDE ‘ALEKOKO (MENEHUNE) FISHPOND

Built for a young chief, this fishpond was unique in that it was built for the river instead of the coast like most others. The fishpond once covered 40 acres and consisted of a 900 ft. long wall that separated the fishpond from the stream, but today only remnants remain of the great wall. According to legend, the Menehune built the massive aquaculture facility in one night before sailing away on a floating island. Located off Hwy 50. Take Puhi Rd. to the end, and then turn left on Hulemalu Rd. The fishpond can be seen from the overlook.

GROVE FARM HOMESTEAD

The lovely plantation home was built in 1864 and opened as a living museum in 1978, featuring many displays and exhibits to paint the life of the sugar plantation days gone by. The historic home is beautifully furnished and has a staircase made from native koa wood. The grounds include giant trees and tropical flower gardens. Located south of Lihue on Highway 58. Admission is $20 and $10 for children 12 & under. Access is by tour only, which is offered twice a day Mon., Wed., and Thurs. at 10am and 1pm. Call (808) 245-3202 to make reservations in advance.

KAUA‘I MUSEUM

With artifacts, vintage photographs and exhibits, Kaua‘i Museum presents a factual look into Kaua‘i’s history. The galleries include a permanent collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts. Located 4428 Rice Street. Admission is $10. Call (808) 245-6931 for information.

KUKUI O LONO PARK

Because the park is set on top of a hill, you will enjoy spectacular panoramic vistas in every direction. Stroll through the lovely serene Japanese-style garden or play the public golf course. The tranquil park is a lovely place to have a romantic picnic with sweeping ocean views of Läwa‘i Valley. Kukui O Lono means light of the god Lono. Located on Papalina Road off Hwy 50 in Kaläheo. 64

NATIONAL TROPICAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

The National Tropical Botanical Garden is an exceptional preserve and houses the world’s largest collection of rare and endangered plants, and includes the Allerton, McBryde and Limahuli (North Shore.) The gardens are stunning examples of native landscape and design. The NTBG provides a haven for tropical endangered plant species to thrive and focuses on the cultivation of traditional medicinal plants. The Allerton Garden sits on the site of Hawai‘i’s Queen Emma’s summer cottage. This 80-acre tropical retreat hosts the Island’s living treasures in an enchanting garden and also has a private beach that turtles use to lay eggs. It’s a good idea to make advanced reservations for the Allerton Garden since tours are limited. McBryde Garden is set in seclusion between rugged cliffs, making it ideal for learning about the native plants while viewing rare and endangered Hawaiian species. Call (808) 7422623 or visit ntbg.org.

PRINCE KŪHĪO PARK

At Prince Kühïo Park you can pay your respects to Hawai‘i’s first delegate to the U.S. congress, Prince Jonah Kühïo Kalaniana‘ole. He is known as “People’s Prince” because of his great accomplishments for native Hawaiians. A state holiday is observed in his honor, while the park honors his birthplace with a statue. While here, you can see the Hoai Heiau, the foundation of Prince Kühïo’s home, and the royal fishpond. Located on Läwai Road.

SPOUTING HORN

To the west of the park is Spouting Horn, a cascade of water that shoots up like Old Faithful from an opening of an ancient lava tube with every incoming wave. Located across from the National Tropical Botanical Garden on Läwai Road.

TREE TUNNEL

Giant eucalyptus trees planted over 150 years ago by Scotchman Walter Duncan McBryde create the Tree Tunnel, the gateway into Koloa and Po‘ipü. Turn south on Hwy 520, Maluhia Rd.

WAILUA FALLS

A stunning 80-foot tiered waterfall is easy to view close to the roadside lookout. Nicknamed the Fantasy Island waterfalls for the prominent opening scene of the falls for the hit television show. It’s best to view the falls in the morning when the sun adds to the beauty of the falls. The power of the falls depends on the rainfall. A slippery hike down a steep trail leads you to the bottom of the waterfalls for a cool swim. Located off Hwy 56, end of Ma‘alo Rd.

WEST SIDE CAPTAIN COOK’S MONUMENT

Captain James Cook, the British explorer, landed in Waimea Bay in January 1778 with his ships Resolution and Discovery, marking his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands. Facing the sea, a statue of Cook stands in

Waimea to mark the historic event that would forever change Hawai‘i. Located in Hofgaard Park in the downtown area.

KALALAU VALLEY LOOKOUT

The lookout provides panoramic views into the majestic valley—without breaking a sweat—from the 18 mile marker. It is one of the most spectacular views on earth with striking sea cliffs and the cobalt Pacific looks into the largest valley in Näpali. Kalalau Valley is dramatic, with jagged emerald ridges, and is best viewed in the morning to avoid the clouds. Further ahead is Pu‘u o Kila Lookout, which offers even more astonishing views of the valley and the deep blue ocean. Both lookouts are located at the end of the Köke‘e Road. Call (808) 335-9975 for weather information.

KŌKE‘E NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

This little museum provides interpretive programs and exhibitions about Kaua‘i’s climate, geology and ecology. The museum has great information about the forest, hiking trails and conditions and sells maps and local books. Located past the 15 mile marker off Köke‘e Road. Turn left after the park headquarters. The museum is next to Köke‘e Lodge just before the campground. Open everyday 10am-4pm. Free. Call (808) 335-9975 or visit kokee.org.

MENEHUNE DITCH (KĪKĪ A OLA)

Only remnants remain of what was once a great watercourse and aqueduct that extended 25 miles up the Waimea River—made from smooth lava stone brought from Mokihana. Legend has it that the Menehune, race of little people, built the ditch in one night for the high chief of Waimea to irrigate the taro patches for Waimea residents for payment of shrimp. Archaeologists say the historic site was built before Polynesians came, possibly by the Menehune. Located off Hwy 50 on Menehune Rd. just before the 23mile marker.

WAIMEA CANYON LOOKOUT

The Grand Canyon of the Pacific is a breathtaking gaping gorge with dramatic ridges and deep ravines shaped by the steady process of erosion and collapse of the volcano that formed Kaua‘i. It is roughly 10 miles long and 3,600 feet deep. The canyon is spectacular and majestic with jewel-tone colors of reds and greens. Take the scenic but narrow drive on Waimea Canyon Drive (Rte 550) from Hwy 50, or turn up the steep Köke‘e Road at Kekaha. The two roads merge into Köke‘e Road after a few miles up. Waimea Canyon Lookout is between mile markers 10 and 11. Check out the spectacular vistas from scenic lookouts at Pu‘u Hina Hina (3,336 feet elevation), where the private island of Ni‘ihau can be seen on clear days, and Pu‘u Ka Pele where the Waipo‘o Falls are visible after a heavy rainfall. Be prepared for cooler weather, and make sure you have some fuel in your car. Waimea Canyon Drive ends at Kalalau Lookout about 4 miles above the park.

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OCEAN GUIDES The allure of the Hawaiian sea turtle. WORDS ANDREW WALSH

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awaiÿi has always been home to great ocean navigators. The early Marquesan and Tahitian settlers decoded the stars and interpreted the weather and waves, finding a course that was true, landing them safely in the bountiful embrace of this remote island realm. Humpback whales, using knowledge known only to their kind, steer their young over unfathomable distances to return each year to the shelter of the warm waters surrounding the islands. So too, the great honu (turtle) found their way here millions of years ago. These skilled navigators continue to astound and bewilder humans by voyaging into the vast, featureless Pacific every 3-4 years to known protected beaches anywhere from 500 miles up to 1,500 miles away from their local feedings grounds. Piloting to these remote nesting sites, they give birth to the next generation who will also return someday to the very same beach again and again. Although Hawaiÿi is within the range of six different Pacific sea turtles including olive ridleys, loggerheads and leatherbacks, it is just the green sea turtle (honu) and hawksbill (honu ‘ea) that are regulars on the shoreline. And out of the seven different species of sea turtles in the world, the green sea turtle is considered the friendliest—meaning there have been reports of honu following snorkelers and divers around at coral reefs. There are few other places on this blue planet where turtles and people live so closely as in the Hawaiian Islands. In many tropical locales, the idea of just seeing a turtle ambling by in the water or basking about enjoying the warm sunshine on the beach is a rarity. In Hawaiÿi, it’s just another day. Most commonly seen are the green sea turtles and for good reason. Most sea turtles warm themselves by swimming in shallow warm waters, but not so with the green. It chooses to lie on the beach and soak in the sun like its human co-habitants. Very few sea turtles leave the water for anything other than nesting. But greens know a good thing when they find it. Like so many others who have discovered these islands, Hawaiÿi has a unique flow and way unto itself for all of the creatures that make it home. Less commonly seen are the hawksbills. Named for their tapered head, which ends in a sharp point (resembling a beak), they also have bird-like claws on the end of their flippers. An easy way to distinguish them from greens is the serrated edges adorning the ends of their multi-colored carapace (shell). Green turtles also display a more round, heart shaped shell and are generally larger than hawksbills. Greens are actually one of the largest marine turtles, growing upwards of 700-lbs, while hawksbills usually never surpass 150 lbs. Generally most turtles are omnivores, eating things like mollusks, marine algae, crustaceans, sea urchins, fish, and jellyfish. A hawksbill’s favorite

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meal is sponges! But green sea turtles are vegetarians (at least once they become adults,) a true oddity in the turtle world. And although they appear various shades of brown, black, and yellow, green sea turtles are so named because their internal fat is greencolored as a result of their unique diet. Regardless of which turtle you happen upon here, make no mistake about the cultural significance and mana (spiritual power) which these ancient ancestors possess. They were reserved for eating by only the royal aliÿi class. It was thought that their longevity and endurance would enhance the sacred life force of any who consumed them. The creation chant of the Hawaiian people, the Kumulipo, has multiple references to turtles—“Born is the turtle living in the sea, Guarded by the Maile seedlings living on land.” Honu were considered ÿaumäkua (guardian spirits) that could change shape and protect one from enemies. They acted as a spiritual force that could attract and unite lovers; and so powerful was their mana, they provided the foundation for entire islands to be grounded with the earth. The name Kailua-Kona has special significance in Hawaiian turtle mythology. A sacred guardian of keiki (children), Kailua was the name given to a sacred turtle that could change shape into a girl, the offspring of two great, some say supernatural sea turtles, who dug a small hole which formed a freshwater pool where Kailua was to hatch forth from. This “keiki pond” from which she grew would forever bind her as the guardian of the young and the bringer of fresh water to the islands. There are even myths that turtles helped to guide the ancient Hawaiians to these islands. Not surprisingly, time spent in the water with these spiritual creatures offers those listening an intuitive sense of the power and truth behind the legends. Even a glimpse of one on land, springs forth a feeling from deep inside our consciousness that we are in the presence of something ancient and sublime. But like all creatures that bridge the natural and spiritual world, they share a common frailty. No matter how great their mana, they are bound to the destructive devises of the creatures and ecosystems in which they dwell. Since the onslaught of European colonization, the Hawaiian sea turtles have been harvested for their beautiful shells and prized eggs to the point of near extinction. The green sea turtles in Hawaiÿi are a genetically unique species found only in Hawaiÿi. They nest almost exclusively in French Frigate Shoals and live in the shallow bays and reef ecosystems around the islands. But by the 1960s, they were nearly wiped out. Fortunately, the 1978 US Endangered Species Act gave these ancient turtles, which watched the dinosaurs come and go, a new chapter to their near 200-million-year-old story. We nearly wrote a premature end to this saga, but since gaining protection in the 1970s, turtles have myhawaiitraveler.com

lived up to their legendary powers and surprised scientists with a “supernatural” ability to rebound. The number of nesters in the French Frigate Shoals rookery has increased more than scientists thought possible and the turtle population throughout the islands has increased in abundance 53% over the last 25 years. This is particularly amazing given that turtles do not reach sexual maturity for 2540 years, live upwards of 80 years (some live past 100!), and can no longer utilize nesting sites in the main Hawaiian Islands due to loss of habitat and development. (Although it should be noted that population estimates of turtles are difficult to assess and there are very few reliable long-term abundance estimates. Also, green sea turtle populations worldwide are in much worse shape.) Sea turtles can lay over a hundred eggs in one nest and have between 2-8 nests per season. This may seem like a lot of new turtles being added to the population, but sadly scientists estimate that only one out of a 1,000 hatchlings make it to adulthood since many are killed by birds, cats, dogs, crabs and large fish. But no matter how resilient, their connection to the land, sea, and well being of the people invites a vulnerability to the worldly woes of neglect and complacency. Although adult turtles have few natural predators, the tiger shark being the most prominent, it is the new dangers they face of habitat destruction, pollution, ingestion of trash and plastics, vessel strikes, entanglement in fishing lines, continual harvesting, and most recently outbreaks of disease which continue to threaten them. A recent resurgence of fibropapillomatosis, a herpes-type virus causing white cauliflower-like tumors, has become the most pressing threat, potentially reversing the conservation progress achieved. With no known cure, the tumors spread internally and externally inhibiting foraging, breathing, movement, and digestion depending on the location. In recent years on the shores of Maui for example, 96% of stranded or dead green sea turtles had tumors. It isn’t clear what is causing the growths, but in many parts of the world an increase in the virus also coincides with an increase in human activity, suggesting that dietary or environmental modification co-factors resulting from pollutants, such as wastewater and agriculture runoff, might be the culprit. Interestingly, hawksbill are mostly immune to the virus, but why is unclear. In fact, little at all is known about how and why green turtles get the virus. Regardless, we do know some things—green sea turtles are listed as threatened and hawksbill are critically endangered. Besides the federal Endangered Species Act, Hawaiÿi state law also protects Hawaiian turtles. They are so sacred to these islands and its people, that to harass, injure, or even touch one is illegal, a violation that could cost thousands of dollars and prison time. Much like the ancient Hawaiian laws, turtles are 68

kapu (forbidden) and must be left unharmed. Yet we indirectly harm honu, and ourselves, by living without regard to the consequences our prolific presence has on the balance in this world, the sanctity of its creatures, and ultimately our own security. Like the honu and human navigators who must move forward into uncharted waters, burdensome decisions are made with foresight backed by hindsight. We can all do something to aid turtles on their continued journey alongside us. And we all know what we risk losing if we don’t. Sea turtles deposit large amounts of nutrients on beaches aiding the growth of dune vegetation thus “anchoring” the shoreline, just as in Hawaiian mythology. They also act as guardians and control the growth of seagrass beds, which serve as nurseries for juvenile reef fish. With the loss of sea turtles, many other species would soon follow. And as a critical member of the reef ecosystem, a spiritual guide and companion to the people, and a valuable source of tourism revenue, we would ultimately lose too great a part of our own story and our own future in sacrificing theirs. If you see turtles basking on the beach or in the water while snorkeling, admire them from a reasonable distance and do not alter their natural behavior. Never get between a turtle and its escape to the open ocean or the surface. Although a sea turtle can hold its breath for hours, it can drown in a matter of minutes when stressed. Please do not attempt to touch, feed, or harass sea turtles. Let them come to you and if they don’t, let them be your guide towards learning how to relax and just be.

HOW TO HELP SEA TURTLES:

- Reduce the amount of garbage you produce: recycle, reuse, and pick up trash, especially plastic on the beach. - Be very careful around nesting sites and reduce light pollution at night near oceanfront so the little ones know to follow the moon’s reflection towards the water. - Reduce the amount of non-biodegradable chemicals you put down the drain in your daily life—particularly phosphates and nitrates that are found in many cleaners. - Don’t allow the National Marine Fisheries Service to de-list turtles of any kind from the Endangered Species List. Make your opinion heard, write a letter. - Volunteer. Check out the Hawaiÿi Island Hawksbill Turtle Recovery Project for more information and an application. Phone (808) 985-6090 or email Hawksbillturtleproject@gmail. com. - If you encounter an entangled or stranded sea turtle, please call: (808) 725-5730 or (808) 881-4200. - If you see violations of the Marine Mammal Protection Act or Endangered Species Act, call NOAA Fisheries Office of Law Enforcement at 1-800-853-1964. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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BEAUTY IN FLIGHT The Laysan albatross are exceptional sea lovebirds. WORDS COCO ZICKOS

aysan albatross (Phoebastria immutabilis) might be peculiar to watch on land. The large birds have floppy webbed feet and gaits that resemble more of a waddle than a walk. But if you’ve ever seen one of these magnificent seabirds take flight, you’ll swear you’ve never set your eyes on a creature more graceful and beautiful in your life. With wingspans stretching at least six feet, their agility in the sky is impressive. Laysan albatross, or mölï, make sharp turns at the blink of an eye and rarely flap their wings, as they use only the slightest of wind fluctuations to glide across the sky. When they take off, they simply stretch out their wings, preferably near a cliff’s edge, and catch a gust of wind, which picks them up like a marionette. What makes this species truly remarkable, besides their acrobatics in the sky, is that most of their life, which spans about 12 to 40 years on average, is spent almost entirely at sea. When the birds need rest, they sit on top of the water like ducks in a pond, at which point those webbed feet become handy. Or, they’ll play it safe and avoid the dangers of predators like sharks by taking a mid-flight snooze. This ability to sleep while flying coupled with hardly ever expending energy

by not flapping their wings, allows them to travel hundreds of miles in a single day. They even make journeys to Alaska and back without stopping, just to retrieve food for their nesting babies on Kauaÿi. It only takes a few moments of watching these birds, with their regal white and brown plumage and soulful dark eyes, interacting with each other to gain a sense of appreciation for their intimate relationships. The birds mate for life and only the death or disappearance of their mate breaks that bond. Watching a pair reunite after spending several months at sea alone is magical. They nestle, canoodle and snuggle with each other as much as any human couple would after a long separation. These joy-filled reunions happen around October every year and are usually followed by egg-laying in November. This is when the parental duty kicks in and mates take turns incubating their one egg—each couple can only raise one baby per year and, even so, not always successfully. The chicks hatch by January or February and are fed by their parents who come back with regurgitated goodies from the ocean like fish eggs and squid. Fathers are just as doting as mothers, so you can imagine the happy reunions each time a parent returns to their baby. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) DICK DANIELS; (TOP RIGHT) FOREST & KIM STARR; (BOTTOM RT) US NAVY/MARK LOGICO

About five or six months after gaining their first glimpse of the world from their cracked egg, the youngsters are ready to make their first journey to sea. The parents typically leave their babies when the proper time has come, around July; and when the fledglings get hungry enough, they turn to the sea and let a gust of wind lift them into the air. The young birds remain at sea for about three to five years before returning to land, usually the same location they were raised. This is when the several-year-long mating rituals begin. During this time, the single birds mingle with each other, conducting ornamental dances and gaining a sense for who is on the market and who might be the most suitable match for them. After several years of returning annually during the same season as their already “hitched” parents, the birds finally find “the one.” All that frolicking and flirting leads to a new family ready to continue the cycle of life. Sadly, while millions of these large birds once experienced this life cycle in the Hawaiian Archipelago without any threats, human activity has caused their numbers to dip to some 600,000 breeding pairs, according to a 2009 study. Feather hunting for women’s hats, fishing driftnets, military activity during World War II and overall development have been detrimental to the bird’s survival. Besides a small population on Oÿahu, Kauaÿi is one of the last refuges in the Pacific for mölï. That’s because rising sea levels could push this species from its primary home in the Northwestern Islands, mainly Midway Island where their population is estimated to be about 400,000 breeding pairs—the largest colony of the species in the world. The International Union for the Conservation of Nature Red List of Threatened Species classifies Laysan albatross as “near threatened,” as they are highly vulnerable to dangers, including habitat loss. And although Midway Atoll is their refuge away from people, they still suffer the consequences of human habitation. Plastic marine debris easily finds its way to the shores of this island. But what’s worse for the birds is the plastic inundating the ocean, as they inadvertently scoop it myhawaiitraveler.com

up as they skim the surface for food. While the adults are usually adept at regurgitating the foreign objects, their babies are not. They unintentionally feed bottle caps and lighters to their little ones who are unable to remove the trash. Heartbreaking pictures of dead baby birds with plastic bits filling their stomachs has reached national news in recent years and according to reports, an estimated five tons of trash is fed to these defenseless babies at Midway Atoll each year. Additionally, NOAA has removed some 135 metric tons of debris from this remote island since 1999. The good news is that there are ways to help like limiting the use of plastics and making sure to recycle and dispose of trash properly. Another way to mitigate the problem is to consume only seafood that’s collected using sustainable methods. The best place to see these birds still thriving is at the Kïlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge. Besides being a gorgeous lookout on the northern most bluff of the Hawaiian Islands, you can easily spot these giant creatures soaring through the sky with their fellow native seabirds. Though the birds also frequent the West Side of the island in Mänä, their nests are located inside the private navy base, Pacific Missile Range Facility. Therefore, the North Shore is the only viewing opportunity you’ll have to see them if you happen to be on Kauaÿi from October to July. Also, make sure to peek up at the sky while traveling between Kïlauea and Hanalei, especially toward the cliffs in Princeville as you may spot them sweeping through the air. Please remember that if you stumble upon any of these birds at a nesting site, remain at a respectful distance. While they are docile creatures, they deserve the same kind of regard we’d want for our own families during these precious moments together. Learn more about the Laysan albatross and the Kïlauea Point National Wildlife Refuge by visiting fws.gov/refuge/Kilauea_Point. 71

DESTINATIONS

THE NORTH SHORE The North Shore is tranquil and draped in velvety green, with waterfalls cascading from heaven into a verdant valley and the sounds of gentle surf. At the top of Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sits Alaka‘i Swamp. From this wetland, streams of water flow to the beaches below. Along its journey, the water engraves deep, lush valleys, creating a fertile landscape for the cultivation of various crops on Kaua‘i’s North Shore. The Hawaiians divided this area into three land divisions: Ko‘olau, Halele‘a, and Nāpali. 72

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KO‘OLAU The rural communities of Moloa‘a and Kïlauea lay in the ahupua’a of Ko‘olau. Due to its isolation, the beach community of Moloa‘a is often overlooked by visitors. Just ten minutes north of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a Bay is a great place for swimming, snorkeling or reading a book. Unlike the rocky beaches of Kapa‘a, Moloa‘a offers golden sand and turquoise water. Kïlauea is a former sugar plantation town. The most frequented visitor attraction here is the Kïlauea Lighthouse. The lighthouse is located on a 203-acre national wildlife refuge. Many migratory birds, such as the Pacific Golden Plover, the Laysan Albatross, and the Nënë propagate here. Sometimes you may even see humpback whales, Hawaiian monk seals and spinner dolphins. HALELE‘A Six small beach towns make up the district of Halele‘a. Kalihi Wai is the first and is primarily known for its surf break. Kalihi Wai means “with a stream,” which is fitting, being that it’s next to one. Spend an afternoon kayaking up Kalihi Wai stream. ‘Anini Beach is just across the river. A bridge once connected the two towns until a tidal wave washed it away in 1957. Vacation homes line the beach here and the ocean stays relatively calm due to a wide fringing reef surrounding it. Windsurfing is very popular here. Up the road is Princeville, the Bel-Air of Kaua‘i. This lavish town sits on a plateau that extends from the upper mountains to lower sea cliffs. A short hike down one of these cliffs will take you to Queen’s Bath, a large protected saltwater pond. Princeville offers many amenities that Hanalei doesn’t (like a

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gas station), so fill’er up and head on down to Hanalei. Hanalei is what Kaua‘i probably looked like in the 1800s. Make sure to stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout, where you’ll find acres of taro fields covering the valley floor. Be on the look out for Beefalo (half cow, half buffalo). Hanalei has become a popular destination for visitors and surfers, and offers some of the largest waves on the island. The water is temperamental, so take heed to any posted warnings. If you can’t swim in the ocean, the Hanalei River feeds into the bay and provides a short but sweet kayak adventure. The valley of Wainiha is believed to be the last hideout of the Menehune, a race of little people. Along this narrow valley lie the remains of old home sites, heiau and taro patches. When you’ve reached the end of the road, you’ve reached Hä‘ena. Explore the wet and dry caves of Waikanaloa, Waikapala‘e and Maniniholo (dry). View Ka Ulu a Paoa, a distinguished hula heiau and discover the underwater sea caves at Kë‘ë Beach. More than likely you’ll end up spending longer than a day here. NÄPALI For the truly adventurous, the district of Näpali is only accessible by foot. The majestic park and coastline consists of streams, cascading waterfalls, dramatic sea cliffs, lush verdant valleys and amazing views. If you plan on doing the 22-mile round trip hike to Kalalau Valley, be prepared. First and foremost, secure a camping permit. Second, pack your bags rationally and third, train! If 22 miles is a bit too adventurous, there are many enjoyable day hikes around the area. Remember, always check the weather conditions before going anywhere.

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74 ISLAND DINING GUIDE 78 WHAT WE LOVE NOW 83 KAUA'I FOOD: THEN & NOW 86 TO THE SEA 90 HOT SPOT 92 CULINARY Q&A 94 SIPPING THROUGH THE SEASON

THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA

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tidepools hawaiian-style Ahh, the romance of a tiki-torch lit dinner in thatched roof bungalows floating above a koi-filled lagoon. Here you’ll find stellar service and contemporary Hawaiian cuisine featuring the freshest of fish and succulent steaks crafted with a distinct island flair. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. grand h yatt k aua‘ i r e sort & s pa | 157 1 P O I PU ROAD | KO LOA , H I 96756

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KAUA‘I DINING SOUTH SHORE DONDERO’S Dondero’s will satisfy your soul as well as your appetite. The elegant ambiance and stellar service makes this a dining favorite for those with discriminating taste. The menu is designed as an Italian tasting menu, offering complimentary flavors and contrasting textures with a large selection of appetizers, homemade pastas, fresh fish, chicken, lamb and beef specialties. This light, modern Italian cuisine is carefully paired with wines from all over the world. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. EATING HOUSE 1849 BY ROY YAMAGUCHI The Eating House 1849 pays homage to Hawai‘i’s vibrant culinary heritage, a nod to restaurateurs like Peter Fernandez who, the story goes, opened one of the first restaurants in Hawai‘i. Called the Eating House, back in the mid-1800s, using what was available from local farmers, ranchers, foragers and shermen. It’s here that award-winning Chef Roy Yamaguchi blends these two worlds: the easy ambiance and simple flavors of a plantation town with the dynamic modernity of haute cuisine. Located at the Shops at Kukui‘ula. Call (808) 742-5000 for reservations. STEVENSON'S SUSHI & SPIRITS The warm woods and intimate seating areas of this classic lounge create a welcoming atmosphere. Take a seat at the 27-foot, hand crafted koa wood bar or sink into a cozy chair or sofa in the booked lined room. Chef Jay creates delectable sushi creations nightly in this unique Kaua‘i bar boasting an extensive selection of Whiskies, Cognac and Port in addition to creative martinis and delectable tropical drinks. Kick back and enjoy live entertainment nightly ranging from Contemporary Hawaiian to Jazz to Indie Pop. Enjoy a game of pool, backgammon or chess. Scrumptious sushi rolls are sure to please and live entertainment nightly makes for the perfect nightcap. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. THE SHOPS AT KUKUI‘ULA The Shops at Kukui‘ula has become known as the premier dining destination on Kaua‘i for its selection of casual and fine dining experiences in a beautiful plantation style setting. Merriman’s Fish House and Eating House 1849 feature renowned Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine Chefs Peter Merriman and Roy Yamaguchi while Tortilla Republic and Dolphin Sushi bring contemporary flair to Mexican and seafood 76

cuisine. Casual options include Bubba Burgers, Living Foods Market & Café, Merriman’s Gourmet Pizza & Burgers, and TR Taqueria & Margarita Bar as well as local favorites Uncle’s Shave Ice and Lappert’s Hawai‘i. Check out the weekly Kaua‘i Culinary Market, Wednesdays, 3:30 to 6pm, with a cooking demo at 5pm. Visit theshopsatkukuiula.com. THE LOUNGE AT TIDEPOOLS The Lounge at Tidepools is the perfect spot for an early evening cocktail and light, delicious snack…with a view. Our recent refresh brightened and revitalized the restaurant and lounge. Tidepools’ contemporary Hawaiian cuisine now has a contemporary Hawaiian home. Honoring its namesake and casual style, colors reflect sand, surf and sea. The new wine cellar is home to over 200 wines, find your favorite and take in the views of the lush gardens and azure sea. Located at Tidepools restaurant in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. TIDEPOOLS For the ultimate in ambiance, Tidepools is the place. With a backdrop of waterfalls, these thatched roof hale seemingly float above koi filled lagoons providing a distinctive open-air setting in which to savor contemporary Hawaiian style cuisine. Diners rave about the fresh island fish and steak options including macadamia nut crusted mahimahi, grilled opah, organic steak, or Hawaiian salt and garlic rubbed prime rib. Salads feature fresh island-greens and the desserts are luscious. Don’t miss this delightful experience. Located in the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort. Call (808) 240-6456. LĪHU‘E KUKUI’S Features a Pacific Rim gourmet buffet in an outdoor setting, plus American and local specialties. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located poolside at the Marriott Kaua‘i Beach Resort. Located at 3610 Rice Street. Call (808) 245-5050. WAILUA - EAST SIDE KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT Authentic Korean food with great Korean BBQ like galbi, chicken and pork served with soup, kimchee, vegetables and rice. Delicious Korean plates like shrimp tempura, Korean chicken, Mahi or meat jun (marinated mahi or ribeye dipped in egg and fried), bi bim bap (rice bowl with veggies and your choice of meat) and favorites like katsu, fried rice, noodles and dumplings all reasonably priced. Open Mon.-Sun.

11am-9pm. Kinipopo Shopping Village in Wailua. 4-356 Kuhio Hwy Building #E. (808) 823-6744. NAUPAKA TERRACE Inspired by the natural beauty of the Garden Island, Kauai Beach Resort creates unforgettable dining experiences that delight your senses. Indulge in delicious island specialties, fresh seafood, refreshing tropical drinks and live music as you gaze at the coastline and sparkling ocean. Dine on island cuisine at Naupaka Terrace, one of the top restaurants on Kaua‘i, enjoy a poolside snack at Driftwood Bar & Grille, and enjoy refreshing drinks and island music nightly at Shutters Lounge. Located at the Kauai Beach Resort. Call (808) 245-1955. NORTH SHORE MAKANA TERRACE Overlooking magical Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain is the main dining room at The St. Regis Princeville Resort, Makana Terrace, the perfect venue for sophisticated casual all day dining. The menus showcase the freshest Hawaiian grown produce flawlessly represented in the dishes prepared by the Executive Chef and his culinary team. On Wednesdays, The Mailani dinner experience captures the essence of Halele’a, through chant, hula and storytelling. Journey with us overlooking Hanalei Bay as we reveal the mystery of this special place. Mailani, is an elegant Hawaiian dining experience that honors the culture and traditions of Kaua’i. Dinner ThursdayMonday, Wednesdays for Mailani, Dinner Show. Located at The St. Regis Princeville Resort. Call (808) 826-2746 for reservations. KAUAI GRILL A comfortable yet elegant hideaway—signature Jean-Georges sophistication realized far from home. Sweeping views of Hanalei bay and Bali Hai surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences from Michelin awarded Jean-George Vongerichten. Kauai Grill combines a curated selection of JeanGeorges’ greatest appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments from his portfolio of domestic and international restaurants around the world with the highest quality of meats and freshest local fish available. Simply grilled preparations accompanied by bold condiments anchor the Kauai Grill experience at The St. Regis Princeville. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6pm-10pm. For reservations call (808) 826-9644.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Internationally Acclaimed. Locally Inspired. Sweeping views of Hanalei Bay and Makana Mountain surround Kauai Grill, the latest in creative dining experiences inspired by Michelin awarded Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Featuring a selection of signature appetizers, side dishes and accompaniments inspired by his portfolio of restaurants around the world.

Open Tuesday – Saturday for Dinner For reservations, please visit kauaigrill.com, opentable.com or call 808 8 26 0600 5520 Ka Haku Road Princeville Hawai‘i

LOVE & BUBBLES T

he St. Regis Princeville Resort’s Romantic Dinners with Dom Perignon Champagne is a truly private and elegant dining experience for two, inspired by Kaua‘i’s natural grandeur of land and sea. Guests will enjoy a meticulous pairing of island inspired cuisine with a renowned selection of Dom Perignon Champagnes, the most celebrated brand of prestige Champagne in the world. Your private wait staff will greet you in the lobby and escort you to your secluded dining area. The resplendent evening begins with a signature Champagne sabering toast, a St. Regis tradition. Guests may select The Elite Dinner Experience which includes a four-course menu, wine pairings and a bottle of Dom Perignon Champagne, gift and framed photograph priced at $5,400 inclusive of tax and gratuity. The Royal Dinner, the most exclusive dining experience, includes a four- course menu and Dom Perignon Champagne pairings throughout the evening. A bespoke gift and framed photograph is also included. The cost is $8,900 inclusive of tax and gratuity.

PHOTO COURTESY: THE ST. REGIS PRINCEVILLE RESORT

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WHAT WE LOVE NOW

For further information, contact The St. Regis Princeville Resort's concierge team at 808-826-9644 or visit stregisprinceville.com.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

stevenson’s sushi & spirits Poipu’s luxury nightspot offers sweeping views, scrumptious sushi, inventive cocktails, tropical drinks, aged whiskies, cognacs and ports. Sushi rolled nightly 5:30-9:30pm. Live contemporary island music 8:30-11:00pm. Free valet parking for diners. For reservations call 808 240 6456 or book online at opentable.com. grand h yat t k aua‘ i r e sort & spa | 1 57 1 p o i p u roA D | Ko LoA , h i 9 675 6 | K AuA i .g r A n D . h yAt t.com

WE BE JAMMIN' A

letha Thomas, creator of the sensationally sweet and savory products of Monkeypod Jam, began selling her island inspired products at farmers markets in 2010 as a way to earn extra income. Needless to say, the tropical jams and jellies, made with seasonal fruits and locally grown produce, were such a hit she’s since opened a storefront in Läwaÿi. The quaint café with a classic country vibe offers fresh-out-of-the-oven pastries, as well as daily breakfast and lunch specials. Besides feasting on homemade sandwiches and soups that vary daily, customers can explore the gift shop and bring home any number of exquisite homemade spreads including the award-winning and bestselling, Lilikoi Curd—a passion fruit delicacy perfect for cake toppings or bagels. Savory options also flourish like Spiced Tomato Jam created with Kauaÿi ingredients that pack a zesty punch and are perfectly paired with sandwiches like grilled cheese. But if you can’t get to the South Shore store, don’t worry. Monkeypod Jam also sets up shop each week on Wednesdays at Kauaÿi Culinary Market in Poÿipü and Saturdays at Kauaÿi Community Market in Lïhuÿe. Products are also available at a number of retail locations around the island. Monkeypod Jam is open 7am to 4pm Monday through Saturday and is located at 3687 Kaumualiÿi Hwy in Läwaÿi. Call (808) 378-4208 or visit monkeypodjam.com for more information.

KALALEA CRAVINGS C

ool down after a morning at the beach with a refreshing, fruit-filled açaí bowl from Kalalea Juice Hale in Anahola. Swing by the bright orange hale (house) on your way to or from the North Shore to refuel and rehydrate. Tucked under the majestic Kalalea Mountain, also known as King Kong, the atmosphere here is as revitalizing as the food. An array of healthy menu items is offered like açaí bowls, smoothies, coldpressed juices and superfood shots along with local favorites like shave ice and coffee. What they all have in common is an incorporation of local, tropical fruit like coconut meat or bananas plucked straight from Kauaÿi gardens. Even the coffee has an option of including homemade coconut cream. A favorite treat among kamaÿäina (local residents) is The Next Level, an açaí bowl blended with Tambor Açaí, kale, banana, protein powder and fresh coconut milk, and topped with crisp coconut meat, homemade granola, honey, bee pollen and peanut butter. Another popular pick is the Unreals smoothie with papaya, mango, coconut meat, banana, Vitamineral Green powder, mint and fresh coconut water. There’s plenty of nutrient dense, delicious goodness for the taking at Kalalea Juice Hale. Open Tuesday through Friday, 8am to 5pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 5pm. Located in Anahola at 4390 Puÿuhale Rd. Call (808)-346-0074 to place an order.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP) MONKEYPOD JAM; (BOTTOM) DANIEL LANE

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YOUR TA S T E B U D S DESERVE A V A C AT I O N .

Enjoy local and responsibly sourced ingredients at all six restaurants,

as well as farm to table menus, legendary steak and seafood dishes, myhawaiitraveler.com light and healthy options, and of course, delectable desserts.

Kauai Marriott Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining selections range from casual oceanside cocktails and snacks to true ďŹ ne dining.

BROKE DA MOUTH SUSHI

nly the finest seafood is intricately wrapped into every succulent sushi serving at The Dolphin Hanalei. The red, lean and flakey meat of ÿahi (Hawaiian yellowfin tuna) is one of the many exceptional ingredients plucked straight from the Pacific that play a leading “roll” in the North Shore establishment’s sushi cuisine. Sit riverside in the lounge and indulge in any number of offerings featuring divine ingredients like the Rainbow Poke Martini, akin to a deconstructed sushi roll, with premium cuts of ÿahi, salmon and a mild white fish, mixed with avocado, sweet sushi rice and a zesty “Broke Da Mouth” sauce. You also can’t go wrong with one of the master sushi chef’s specialty rolls like U-Megan-Me-Crazy made with ÿahi, sesame seeds, avocado and asparagus, or a tempura selection like the Flyin’ Hawaiian featuring battered and spicy soft-shell crab, avocado, cucumber and delicately sliced white and green onions, folded into soy paper and topped with hamachi (yellowtail fish) and a splash of lemon. You could even stick to something conventional and be just as palate-pleased like the California Roll made with genuine snow crab, tobiko (bright orange flying fish eggs), avocado and cucumber. The Dolphin Hanalei is open daily from 5:30 to 9:30pm. Located in the Hanalei Dolphin Center at 5-5016 Kühiö Highway. Call (808) 826-6113 to make reservations. Visit hanaleidolphin.com for more information.

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: DANIEL LANE

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KAUAI FOOD then & now

PHOTO COURTESY: (THIS PAGE; PAGE 84 /TOP; PG 85/BOTTOM) KAUAI MUSEUM

Plantation days are long gone, but the tradition of sharing food is as strong as ever. WORDS MARY TROY JOHNSTON

he rich and varied gastronomic landscape on Kauaÿi is defined by so many different sources. The original Polynesian settlers brought to Hawaiÿi the so-called “canoe plants.” Once cultivated, they supplied the foundation for the islanders’ diet, ranging from the staple, kalo (taro), to bananas, coconuts, yams, breadfruit, and sweet potatoes. In the imu (underground earthen oven) of old Hawaiÿi, these fruits and vegetables would be added to the main meal of pig or fish. With the establishment of sugar cane plantations in the 19th century, foreign workers began to immigrate to Hawaiÿi. The plantations brought in Chinese workers mid-century. Later in the century, most Portuguese arrived on whaling ships and eventually became involved in cattle operations. But, the agricultural plantations were the real draw, recruiting globally Koreans, Japanese, Filipinos, and Puerto Ricans. myhawaiitraveler.com

On a remote island with a small population, each of these groups left a significant imprint, especially in terms of food history, by bringing their dishes from their respective home country. In recent years, the Kauaÿi Museum has devoted much effort to memorializing and celebrating the diverse cultures that played such an important role in developing the unique blended character of the island. The museum has hosted festivals that highlight the food and cultures of particular groups. Executive director of the museum, Chucky Boy Chock, describes how the museum “broke the ice” with the Portuguese Festival in 2014, which drew over 1,200 people throughout the day to a “courtyard that holds 150 people.” “And guess what they came for?” He asks. “They came for the food, malasadas [sugary dough balls], sweet bread, Portuguese bean soup and music.” Chucky Boy is as much regarded for his storytelling as for his efforts 83

Plantation era camp meal; Polynesian Omelette at Kountry Kitchen; Truffle Burger at Kenji Buger.

to keep the early stories and history of the island through his work at the museum. Reflecting on the past, he says, “The most important component of the plantations, also called ‘camps,’ was the food” in forming bonds that brought the “cultures together.” Then, he is happy to illustrate with a story. “A Chinese man at ‘Banana Camp’ in Köloa gave a Hawaiian man a bun stuffed with pork. The Hawaiian man said ‘mea ÿono puaÿa’ (delicious pork). The Chinese man replied, ‘manapua.’ “No,” says the Hawaiian. According to the story, they went back and forth with the Chinese man insisting on manapua until the Hawaiian man finally yielded, “Yes, MANAPUA.” “Today you go to any Chinese shop in Hawaiÿi and ask for manapua, and they pack a box to go. No other state or country has ever heard of the word, manapua. Only in Hawaiÿi,” Chucky Boy ends this telling story of food relations on old Kauaÿi. Between stories, the museum director took a lunch break with his kaukau tin in hand, leading him to tell how the stacked lunch box, originated by the Chinese, came into being. Although many believe kaukau to be the Hawaiian word for “eat,” Chucky Boy points out that “ÿai” means “eat”. Therefore, he explains that kaukau is more likely a combination of the Hawaiian word “päkaukau”, meaning “table,” and the Chinese word “chow chow,” meaning “eat,” an example of “one of those slangs putting two cultures together.” Used by everyone on the plantations, the kaukau tin to this day shows the cross-cultural influences of food. Chucky Boy describes that the tin came in stacks of two or three. “One had the rice, the second one had the vegetables, and the third had fish, chicken, pork or beef, also noodles or sabao, Filipino soup.” And for him, “the best part” is that “everyone ate together and shared their meals.” The most recent generation of restaurateurs and chefs carries forward the “shared cultures” food tradition on Kauaÿi. Erik Tanigawa owns a restaurant he named after his grandfather, Kenji Tanigawa. As true of so many islanders, Erik can trace his lineage back to the plantations where his grandfather Kenji worked as a master welder and union leader on the southwestern side of the island at a camp in Kaumakani Town. At Kenji Burger, Erik has incorporated Japanese recipes from his father’s family, the Tanigawa side that has spent five generations on Kauaÿi. Erik tells how his mother “could cook everything from local favorites to very traditional Japanese dishes,” those she learned from Erik’s grandmother, and others from her 100% German heritage. The food preparations at Kenji Burger speak to the various cultural exchanges of his youth. “We make all our sauces in house at Kenji by blending various Japanese ingredients to create the unique taste,” Erik explains. He goes on to describe the Truffle Burger “which blends the best of both the French and the Japanese” for a burger “topped with Swiss cheese and fresh organic Shimeji mushrooms from Japan.” Kauai Beer Company is having a field day incorporating different food traditions and diverse ingredients into their food offerings. Kauai Beer Company tries to make as much use as possible of the canoe plants, concocting new ways to use coconut, turmeric, ginger, taro, and sweet potatoes. Consequently, their Taro Fries are a favorite among locals. Also embracing the multi-cultural 84

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

Kimchi from Kauai Juice Co.; Taro Fries at Kauai Beer Co.; Plantation-era family on Kaua‘i.

food heritage of Kaua‘i, the Chicken or Pork Belly Banh Mi features beer-battered fried chicken or braised pork belly on a toasted baguette with their house-made kimchi, carrots, onions and a cilantro-jalapeño aioli. Kimchi, a mixture of cultured Asian vegetables, is a Korean staple that has gained recognition and popularity as a “superfood.” The traditional method of fermentation for kimchi is to add salt to fresh vegetables and store them in airtight containers. A little bit of “aging” brings to life the natural and beneficial bacteria contained on the skins of the vegetables. Traditional kimchi made from locally grown ingredients has in recent years become widely available. Isaiah and Aaron Dosono, respectively, are president and vice-president of Kauaÿi Kim Chee, LLC, a company their parents started on May 23, 2015 (“as an answer to prayer” in the words of Isaiah) and have since given to the two brothers. Unable to find kimchi on the island that did not contain MSG (monosodium glutamate), the Dosono family decided to make their own. After introducing their product at farmers markets across the island, they expanded to grocery stores and restaurants. Locals are big fans of the Polynesian Omelette at the Kountry Kitchen that combines “Portuguese sausage, onions, kimchi, and cheddar cheese” in a dish that the owner, Susana Rick, calls “awesome.” She notes that the omelette has been on the menu for the 22 years she has owned the restaurant, but fresh local kimchi had not been available until the Dosono family started making theirs. The restaurant also sells jars of Kauaÿi Kim Chee. So happy with the success, Susana flies the kimchi to Oÿahu where her other Kountry Kitchen is located at ÿEwa Beach. Both restaurants also offer specials, such as kimchi fried rice. It is not surprising that Isaiah and Aaron Dosono would find themselves in the midst of the multicultural food scene on Kauaÿi given their ancestry. Their grandfather came from the Philippines in 1928 and spent 50 years working for Kumukumu Camp near Keälia Beach whereas his grandma, from his mother’s side, grew up in the Köloa Camp, in a family that also has Japanese and HawaiianChinese origins. Owner of Kauai Juice Co, Kristal Muhich, is proud of the vegan kimchi the company makes using cabbage from the island’s North Shore. “The end result is a low calorie, high fiber, and nutrientpacked side dish. It’s known to help with digestive health from its range of bio available probiotics and healthy bacteria,” Kristal states. She also describes their kimchi as vitamin-rich including, “A, B1, B2, and C” and “also full of iron, calcium, and selenium.” Do we need any more evidence to convince us to get our daily dose of kimchi? The rich cultural and traditional food scene is thriving on Kauaÿi. More than a fusion of different cuisines, it exemplifies a warm sharing and embracing of cherished food traditions that are very personal to islanders. Certainly, “keeping” the food traditions yield a bounty of good values, nutritional benefits, support for farmers, preservation of past methods and customs, and unique tastes worthy of paradise. 85

BY THE SEA Make every meal on Kaua‘i more enjoyable with a scenic view.

Dining on the Garden Island can be picture-perfect when you take advantage of the breathtaking seaside dining options the island has to offer. From dawn till dusk, Kaua‘i offers an impeccable backdrop for all your dining experiences.

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

NALU KAI GRILL & BAR

KAUA‘I TRAVELER

KALAPAKI BEACH

KUKUI'S

PHOTO COURTESY: (OPPOSITE) DANIEL LANE; (TOP RT) KAUAI MARRIOTT

Kukui’s Located on Kalapakï Beach, Kukui’s is a favorite for those seeking first-rate Pacific Rim cuisine served with breathtaking views and a breezy atmosphere. Known for their fresh and flavorful local ingredients, Executive Chef Guy Higa has cultivated meaningful relationships with his farmers, ranchers, and fishermen allowing Kukui’s to offer some of the freshest ingredients the island has to offer. For breakfast, guests can choose from a lengthy à la carte menu or opt for the breakfast buffet offered daily with a Champagne Brunch offered each Sunday. Lunch is the perfect time for a poolside salad or shared plates of püpü (appetizers) like Kukui’s Hanalei Taro Hummus served with warmed pita or the K-Grill Quesadilla featuring melted pepper jack cheese and topped with salsa fresca and wasabi avocado cream. When it’s time to celebrate the end of another day in paradise, guests can enjoy daily Happy Hour specials like the Spicy Ahi Poke Bowl with furikake rice and Hawaiian Fish Tacos with salsa fresca, avocado slices, and house-made chili aioli along with $7 glasses of featured wines and $9 cocktails like their Ultimate Mai Tai or the tropical Lava Flow. Kukui’s is at Marriott Kauaÿi Beach Resort located on 3610 Rice Street in Lïhuÿe. Breakfast: Monday to Saturday from 7am to 10am, Sunday Brunch Buffet from 7am to noon. Lunch: daily from 11am to 4pm. Dinner: daily from 5:30pm to 10pm. Happy Hour specials daily from 5pm to 6pm. Call (808) 245-5050. Nalu Kai Grill & Bar Located on the grounds of the exclusive St. Regis Princeville Resort, the Nalu Kai Grill & Bar offers light, Hawaiian-influenced cuisine and sophisticated tropical libations to be enjoyed whiles guests listen to the gentle waves of the Pacific Ocean crashing upon the shore. When dining here, nibble on their Crispy Corn Chips served with house-made guacamole and jalapeño-pineapple pico, or enjoy a refreshing salad like The North Shore Beach Salad featuring organic quinoa, a rainbow of raw vegetables, candied macadamia nuts, avocado slices, and their specially made lemon-mint vinaigrette. If you find yourself with a bigger appetite, enjoy a dish from their Surfer Favorites menu like their Kilauea Fish Tacos, featuring achiote-marinated catch of the day wrapped in soft flour tortillas topped with pico de gallo, queso fresco, shredded cabbage, and fresh cilantro leaves. Nalu Kai Grill & Bar is at The St. Regis Princeville Resort located at 5520 Ka Haku Road in Princeville. Open daily for lunch from 11am to 5:30pm. Call (808) 826-9644. myhawaiitraveler.com

TIDEPOOLS

Tidepools Voted one of the most romantic places on Kauaÿi to dine, Tidepools at the Grant Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa offers an intimate atmosphere within their thatched roof bungalows floating above koi-filled waters. Chef de Cuisine Kevin Horan brings his extensive expertise to the helm as he and his team deliver creative, yet consistent dishes that showcase the best the island has to offer. Begin your meal with their invigorating Tahitian Ceviche featuring ono fish, shrimp, and scallops tossed with coconut, cilantro, and fresh citrus juice and choose from their many delicious entrée dishes featuring locally grown produce and proteins. Popular selections include their Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi Mahi served with a roasted banana-mac nut sauce and forbidden rice or their 30 Day Dry-Aged Makaweli Ribeye served alongside a red wine reduction and herb-roasted fingerling potatoes. No dining experience at Tidepools would be complete without indulging in a serving of their famous Malasadas for dessert—the soft, chewy dough is fried to golden perfection and served with vanilla anglaise, Hawaiian salted caramel, and house-made chocolate sauce.

BEACH HOUSE

BEACH HOUSE 88

Beach House Taking guests back in time, the Beach House is known for their oldfashioned Hawaiian hospitality and Pacific Rim cuisine served with their signature spectacular views. Executive Chef Marshall Blanchard and his team take twists on traditional local favorites for a flare known unto the Beach House. Guests can enjoy a light salad for lunch like the Watermelon Salad served with ÿömaÿo arugula baby greens, Kalamata olives, feta cheese, and candied lemon vinaigrette, or share püpü (appetizers) like the Crispy Crab Stuffed Ahi Roll which is ÿahi (Hawaiian tuna) and snow crab sushi roll crusted in panko breadcrumbs that is fried and served with sesame soy wasabi vinaigrette. And when it’s time to select your evening entrée, the Beach House offers dishes from both the land and sea to ensure all guests can enjoy exactly what they want. Their Wasabi-Crusted Fresh Island Fish is a popular dish for those wanting something lighter and features their lilikoÿi (passion fruit) lemongrass beurre blanc sauce, sautéed bok choy, and Läwaÿi oyster mushrooms with cilantro sesame rice, while their Ovenroasted Jidori Chicken served with goat cheese polenta, figs, capers, grape tomatoes, and marsala jus is a great choice for those wanting something heartier. Beach House is located at 5022 Läwaÿi Road in Köloa. Lunch served daily from 11am to 3pm. Light Fair available daily from 3pm to 4:45pm. Dinner served nightly from 4:45pm to 10pm. Call (808) 742-1424 for reservations. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (TOP LT/OPPOSITE) GRAND HYATT KAUA'I RESORT & SPA; (BOTTOM LT) DANIEL LANE

Tidepools is at the Grand Hyatt Kauaÿi Resort & Spa at 1571 Poÿipü Road in Köloa. Dinner served nightly from 5pm to 10pm. Complimentary valet parking for diners. Call (808) 240-6456 for reservations.

TIDEPOOLS

myhawaiitraveler.com

THE

HOT SPOT

EATING HOUSE 1849

aste the multicultural flavors of Pacific Rim cuisine at Eating House 1849 in sunny Poÿipü, where spicy and savory seasonings enhance every dish. Located on the second floor of The Shops at Kukuiÿula, this elegant restaurant invites patrons into a modern plantation-style open dining room with an ambiance unlike any other restaurant on the island. Aside from salty breezes and divine sunset vistas, the open kitchen is an exclusive feature that allows you to watch the preparation of your food. The rustic, industrialized interior and soothing wooden décor combine to make you to feel right at home while you enjoy delicious, homemade comfort food. Chef Roy Yamaguchi pays homage to the different ethnicities, including Filipino, Japanese and Portuguese, that made Hawaiÿi the cultural melting pot that it is in each of the dishes he presents at Eating House 1849. Even the restaurant’s name is a nod to the Islands’ first sit-down eatery that opened in the mid-1800s by Peter Fernandez 90

WORDS COCO ZICKOS

who was of Portuguese descent. Eating House 1849 is also a tribute to Yamaguchi’s own heritage, as his grandfather, Henry, worked on a plantation and operated a restaurant and general store on Maui. Besides enjoying the relaxing, yet chic, atmosphere at this South Shore establishment, patrons relish in top-notch service and exquisite cuisine. Since opening two years ago, the menu has dazzled guests’ palates with a variety of offerings. Some of the items transitioned from Yamaguchi’s former beloved Kauaÿi restaurant, Roy’s Poipu Bar & Grill at the Poipu Shopping Village, due to their popularity. Slow Braised Honey Mustard Grilled Beef Short Ribs with horseradish potato purée, local kale and demi-glace, as well as the signature bakedto-perfection Melting Hot Dark Chocolate Soufflé with Lappert’s vanilla bean ice cream, made their way to the new venue. But if you’d like to try the famed fare of Yamaguchi’s latest renderings, opt for some of the newer items. The updated selection of püpü (appetizers) alone are a great start. Put your tastebuds on the KAUA‘I TRAVELER

PHOTO COURTESY: (ALL) EATING HOUSE 1849

right track with Crispy Fried Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts soaked in balsamic and topped with toasted pine nuts and golden raisins. Eating House Rainbow Poke, or fish salad, is another perfect appetizer to set your tasting adventure on fire, served with Hawaiian ÿahi (tuna), Kampachi (yellowtail) and salmon topped with spicy orange yuzu soy, cherry tomatoes and pine nuts. Entrées featuring noodles and rice, a mainstay of Asian cuisine, are prominent offerings for your main course. A favorite among diners is the fiery 1849 Spicy Ramen Bowl, a sophisticated take on traditional local cuisine originating from Japan. The dish features a rich broth combining pork and chicken stock with a sensational sesame sauce, as well as Kakuni-style (Japanese braised) pork belly and Hawai‘i Island ground pork soaked in peppery soy with shrimp dumplings, bean sprouts, charred tomato, egg, crispy garlic, negi (green onion), rayu (chili oil) and toasted shiro goma (white sesame seed). Another bowl filled with diverse flavor and a pleasant jolt of spices includes the Kamameshi, or hot pot rice bowl. The Japanese dish is served with braised fresh vegetables, seasoned rice and the option of chicken or butterfish. Other popular selections on the menu are the Garlic Tiger Shrimp Piri Piri accompanied by a spicy Portuguese tomato sauce with bell peppers, garlic and paprika, and served with jasmine rice pilaf flavored with toasted almonds, pine nuts, crispy garlic and raisins. Also, the Filipino-inspired Plantation Paella is a crowd-pleaser, supplemented with the choice of shrimp, clams, chicken or Portuguese sausage. And don’t forget to ask about the specials like Pan Fried Fish of the Day. Since the restaurant receives locally caught fish on a regular basis, nightly specials range from featuring snapper to swordfish. Finally, for dessert, malasadas, which are fried donuts with a crispy exterior and heavenly soft interior, are a satisfactory way to top off your exotic meal. These Portuguese sugarcoated treats are minisized and are perfectly paired with Köloa Rum sauce. Spend your night tasting the unique flavors of the island at Yamaguchi’s latest culinary adventure, Eating House 1849. Whether it’s craft cocktails and püpü at the bar or a leisurely celebration at a private table with your sweetheart while the sun sets, you can’t go wrong at this Kauaÿi hot spot. Eating House 1849 By Roy Yamaguchi is located upstairs at The Shops at Kukuiÿula in Poÿipü. Dinner is served from 5 to 9:30pm. Call (808) 742-5000 or visit eatinghouse1849.com. myhawaiitraveler.com

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CULINARY Q&A CHEF SAM CHOY WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Born and raised in the sleepy Oÿahu town of Läÿie, Chef Sam Choy grew up working for his father’s catering business, never realizing that one day this boy from the country would become one of Hawaiÿi’s most beloved chefs. Choy graduated from the culinary arts program at Kapiÿolani Community College and worked his way up in many Hawaiÿi kitchens until he opened his first restaurant in 1985, and has become a leading advocate in promoting Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine and service with aloha. Choy’s latest venture, HoloHolo Grill at Koloa Landing features Choy’s gastro-pub inspired take on Hawaiian comfort food dishes all served with a goal of enjoying life’s pleasures—great food and great company. Growing up, were their people in your family that cooked? Did you enjoy cooking with them and being in the kitchen? For as long as I could remember, I’ve been in the kitchen with my family. My dad had a catering business and I was raised in the kitchen, you know; taught to hold the knife, follow direction as what needed to be done. My whole family, my brother and two sisters, dad and my mom, we were always cooking together and creating magic in the kitchen. We did the first lüÿaus in Hawaiÿi as a family, feeding 800-900 People. I love cooking, doing lüÿaus, and making food people really enjoy. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

How did you know you wanted to be in the culinary field? You could say it was love at first bite! My mom was an artist and I look at food as art. Taking something from a raw state, being creative, and transforming it to something irresistible -- the artistic part of cooking really hooked me. What did you hope to accomplish with the food you created? Magic. Food has to be creative, but also a balance of flavor. This is the magical part about cooking. I want my guests to enjoy the simple part of food, fresh yet always with a wow factor. As one of the founding chefs of Hawaiÿi Regional Cuisine, what message do you enjoy sharing with your guests? The importance of supporting local ingredients, farmers and fishermen. You know, taking our traditional island foods to another level and arousing those tastebuds. That is my strength…taking fresh, local dishes indigenous to the islands and making good food that anyone would want to eat and enjoy. Where did you gather inspiration for the menu at HoloHolo Grill at Koloa Landing? The inspiration for HoloHolo Grill at Koloa Landing was a team effort between the chefs and the products of Kauaÿi. Walking through the farmers market at Kauaÿi Community College and holding farmers’ vegetables, fruits, and all their ethnic foods that are there. Inspiration also came from the freshness of fish and other proteins and then being an artist in the kitchen with the team—they have a great team here and it took all of us to create the menu at HoloHolo—a true taste of Kauaÿi, especially for the area of Poÿipü. How do you hope your guests will feel when they visit HoloHolo Grill? Happy! With the big pool there, it’s a great atmosphere and there is nothing to worry about, certainly not cooking or cleaning! The HoloHolo Grill brings the outside in. Sitting outdoors just a few yards from the Pacific Ocean with the fresh air…I can’t imagine what could be better! What are some of your must-try dishes on the menu at HoloHolo Grill? My famous poke, which is a traditional island favorite that is all over the world and enjoyed by everyone. Also, the fresh North Shore Greens. There are plenty of salads to choose from with handcrafted dressings and, of course, the HoloHolo burger made with wagyu beef and served with tomato jam—a real magical flavor! At HoloHolo Grill we use nothing but fresh ingredients. What would your perfect day on Kauaÿi be like from beginning to end? Get on up, grab an on-the-run breakfast, cruise up Grand Canyon of the Pacific (Waimea Canyon), come down and have a nice lunch at HoloHolo Grill, head off on an early evening ride to Hanalei, sit on the pier and look at a rainbow or two. Then drive back down to Koloa Landing Resort, rest and shower and then head down to HoloHolo Grill for the evening to enjoy food, drinks and the ambiance. That’s definitely the frosting on the cake—ending the day at HoloHolo Grill! What do you like best about Koloa Landing Resort? I feel that Koloa Landing Resort is very different from all the other resorts; it’s one big family, the associates are so friendly and knowledgeable, and they have a variety of accommodations available for everyone. Plus, it’s located at a central area on Kauaÿi, so it’s easy to go and adventure, and yet come back to a very comfortable home base. The lüÿau is a great addition, the word on the island is “come for the food and stay for the show!” It’s a great show! myhawaiitraveler.com

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SIPPING THROUGH THE SEASON Whether you are hosting a party for two or twenty, these wines are bottled happiness. WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Winter is the time of year to indulge in a wine with complexity as we sit leisurely next to a crackling fire or swirl an intricately layered glass with a comforting meal shared with friends. As the temperatures begin to dip, winter is when we tend to reach for bigger, bolder wines with higher alcohol contents, and that is why big reds and fullbodied whites can be the perfect selection to enjoy during the colder season.

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Australian Shiraz

Australian Shiraz is a fruit-forward red wine that is known for the generous amount of fruit flavors within each glass and for the friendliness of the wine—being both easy to drink and easy to pair with food. Also known as Syrah in France and other parts of the world, Shiraz flourishes in Australia’s climate where the grapes reach peak maturity resulting in robust, heavy-hitting wines known for their intense flavors of blackberry and plums. When looking for a distinctive bottle of Shiraz to share with friends, the 2014 John Duval “Entity” Shiraz from Barossa Valley in South Australia ($29.95 per bottle; klwines.com) packs a wallop of the dark berry and plum flavors Shiraz is known for. Made from old vines and aged in French oak for 15 months, this wine offers a velvety texture meant to be savored with a piece of braised leg of lamb generously flavored with rosemary and thyme or roasted root vegetables topped with sprinklings of parmesan cheese.

Italian Nebbiolo

Known as the “wine of kings”, Italian Nebbiolo is a study of tenuous balance—being full-bodied, yet translucent, and offering a delicate nose yet bursting with intense amounts of tannins and acidity on the palate, Nebbiolo never fails to deliver. Flavors of rose petals, raspberries, and cherry intermingle with aromas of leather, tar, and turned soil in an unimaginable and hedonistically pleasing experience that only an Italian Nebbiolo can create. For an Italian Nebbiolo to share at your next gathering, the 2012 Cavallotto Langhe Nebbiolo ($28.99 per bottle, wine.com) can be the perfect option to be enjoyed with a wide variety of food. The wine opens with a feminine floral bouquet balanced with all the fruit and leather characteristics to be expected of good Nebbiolo wine. Inviting and open, this is an exceptional wine to enjoy with a charcuterie platter

laden with finely aged prosciutto, slices of hard cheeses, and fatty sausages served alongside mustard or enjoyed with a main course of mushroom ragù topped with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Whites of Northern Rhone

Winter is the time to ditch the higher acid whites we sip throughout the year and truly tuck in with a mature, full-bodied white wine with enough octane to pair with the heavier dishes of the season. Whites from the Northern Rhône region of France can be hard to come by, but are the perfect additions to a winter table for the uncommon flavors they bring to each meal and for their full, voluptuous bodies able to stand side-by-side to most any red wine. From Northern Rhône, the varietals of Marsanne and Roussanne are two of the most popular white grapes to be enjoyed and are often blended together to create rich symphonies of flavor. Both grapes originated in the Northern Rhône region and offer flavors ranging from spiced pears to honeyed hazelnut pairing delectably with appetizers or rich cream sauces. Both Northern Rhône varietals have gained critical acclaim over the past decade and outcroppings of both grapes can be found throughout the world. The 2015 Tablas Creek “Côtes de Tablas Blanc” out of Paso Robles, California ($27.99 per bottle, klwines.com) offers a stellar New World approach to these Old World grapes. Highly perfumed and elegant with aromas of chamomile, white pears, and orchard fruits grace each glass while a bouquet of white flowers lingers in the background. Whether sipping tranquilly fireside or sharing a glass with family and friends, these robust reds and full-bodied whites will surely bring happiness to nearly every winter soirée you enjoy this season.

Selecting Value Wines for a Crowd

Try a smaller wine house. Rather than reaching for a wine from a well-known label, take a chance with an up-and-coming house that might not be demanding the same price tag (for now) as other established brands. If you choose to reach for a discounted bottle, be sure to choose stores that are reputable and are known to properly store bottles to avoid purchasing ‘cooked’ or spoiled wines. Be open to trying a blend. Single varietal bottles can come with a heftier price tag than blends, but blends can be the unsung hero of the wine aisle—they can be harmonious and delicious when different grapes blend effortlessly for a sip-able wine! myhawaiitraveler.com

PENNED ON KAUA‘I Meet some popular storytellers of the Garden Isle. WORDS COCO ZICKOS

Kamaÿäina (Hawaiÿi residents) love to “talk story” or shoot the breeze. But you don’t have to buy someone a beer at a local bar to get them to share their stories about Kauaÿi; you can easily find all kinds of fascinating tales about the island in books. Many local publications focus on the history of Kauaÿi, several are personal stories, while others are just plain fictional fun. The following authors are some of the most popular storytellers on the Garden Isle, each with something unique and fascinating to share. 96

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Patrick Ching Kids will get a kick out of this celebrated artist’s colorful books. The wildlife artist, who has galleries across the islands, including on Kauaÿi at Princeville Center, grew fond of animals while working as a ranger on the Northwest Hawaiian Islands (now known as Papahänaumokuäkea). He’s published several books about endangered and threatened animals like Honu and Hina: A Story of Coexistence about green sea turtles and monk seals and how everyone can live cohesively with nature. The legendary Hawaiÿi painter also produced many coloring books with his own illustrations, such as Beautiful Birds of Hawai‘i. He’s currently working on a new coloring book, which these days are just as much for adults as keiki, with a team of people featuring Papahänaumokuäkea. Chris Cook A journalist and former editor of the The Garden Island, Cook has published several books, including his latest, The New Kaua‘i Movie Book. The book provides in-depth coverage of every single movie ever made on the island from anecdotal stories to fascinating facts about the cast and crew. You’ll learn about feature films that have been produced on the island, like Blue Hawaii and Jurassic Park, since the 1930s. Cook has also written books about more serious topics like Serving in Paradise,, and has coffee table books containing gorgeous photographs, including Kaua‘i, the Garden Island: A Pictorial History and From the Skies of Paradise: Kauai. Chuck Blay and Robert Siemers Geography lovers will be enchanted by how the Garden Isle came to be as vastly landscaped as it is in Kauai’s Geologic History, written by these two world-renowned geologists. The book explains how the Hawaiian Islands were born and how they have continued to change shape and form throughout the years. The easy-to-read publication primarily centers on features unique to Kauaÿi, including how the limestone cliffs of Mähä‘ulepü and the fluted peaks of the Näpali Coast came to be. myhawaiitraveler.com

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Bill Fernandez A retired judge, Fernandez, who is half native Hawaiian, grew up on Kauaÿi during the war-filled 1940s and shares his journey through this time in three well researched, nonfiction historical memoirs—Rainbows Over Kapa‘a, Kaua‘i Kids in Peace and WW Two and Hawai‘i in War and Peace: A Memoir. He recounts what it was like living a carefree island life as a child and how drastically that changed once World War II gripped the globe. Fernandez also penned two fiction stories, one about the murders of the Caucasian “political elite” that takes place in Honolulu circa 1920 called, “Cult of Ku,” the other is the first of a series of books, “John Tana, An Adventure Novel of Old Hawai‘i,” about western influence on native people. Jill Marie Landis The North Shore resident gives readers something fun to cozy up with while basking in the sun. Her five light-hearted mystery stories are comedic with quirky characters and move at a fast, easy pace. The national award-winning historical romance novelist calls the books her Tiki Goddess Mystery Series, which all takes place on Kauaÿi. Stormy Cozad The retired Kaläheo schoolteacher has written children’s books, as well as Images of America: Kauai and Kauai: 100 Years in Postcards that pictorially document the changes that happened on the Garden Isle during the 1700s and 1800s. The books chronicle the arrival of Captain Cook in the late 1770s and the reign of King Kaumuali‘i to the appearance and growth of missionaries from Europe during the 1800s. Alan Akana He has rich ancestral ties to Hawaiÿi and wrote the book, The Volcano is Our Home: Nine Generations of a Hawaiian Family on Kilauea Volcano. It’s about the lives of the makaÿäinana (those who farmed the land and fished the oceans) from a community called Kalapana on the slopes of Kïlauea Volcano. A watercolor artist and pastor of the Köloa Union Church, Akana was inspired to write the book after learning about his family’s history at his late father’s memorial service in Hilo in 1999. The book takes readers all the way back to 1756 and focuses on the “trials, tribulations and celebrations” of the native people who lived along the Puna Coast. It follows their lives through the rise of King Kamehameha’s power, Captain Cook’s arrival and the influx of missionaries to the islands, as well as the growth of the sugar cane and tourism industries. 98

Pamela Varma Brown A professional writer and journalist, Brown’s career involved many years of interviewing and writing articles about the people of Kauaÿi. She took her love for telling these tales and turned it into two books, Kauai Stories and Kauai Stories 2. Each volume includes many personal accounts of individuals who call the Garden Isle home. Hula practitioners, salt makers, former plantation workers, surfers—they’re all in there. The newest book even has a section with mysterious stories about legends of night marchers (ancient warrior ghosts) and the vengeance of Pele on all who dare to steal her lava. Jan TenBruggencate He is a former science and environmental writer for The Honolulu Advertiser, and is a well-known and respected Kauaÿi resident (who grew up on Molokaÿi). He provided the text for four beautiful coffee table books about Kauaÿi, Hawaiÿi Island, Maui and Oÿahu. TenBruggencate also took the time to write thoroughly researched historical books about Hawaiÿi’s plantation era, including Hawai‘i’s Pineapple Century: A History of the Crowned Fruit in the Hawaiian Islands, about how the fruit became an industrial crop on the islands, as well as Grove Farm, Kaua‘i and Lihue Mill. Another one of the many books he’s released over the decades is a geographical narrative about Hawaiÿi’s active volcanoes, Hawai‘i Land of Volcanoes. Hob Osterlund She is the founder of an all-volunteer group called Kauaÿi Albatross Network, who help raise awareness about Laysan albatross and monitor the Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s “TrossCam” which captures live feed of an albatross family from the time a couple’s egg hatches to the moment the fledgling takes flight. Inspired by her many intimate hours spent observing and photographing these native seabirds she wrote, Holy Mölï, part memoir, part history and biology of the Laysan albatross. Readers will find a sense of admiration for the birds she so affectionately writes about in this book. If you’re eager to get your hands on any of these books, one of the best places to visit is Talk Story Bookstore in Hanapëpë. Stop in on a Friday night and you’ll also experience Kauaÿi’s Biggest Little Town’s fun-filled art festival with music, food and lots of crafts to ogle. Visit talkstorybookstore.com for more information.

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DESTINATIONS

EAST KAUA‘I THE ROYAL COCONUT COAST

The East Side of Kaua‘i is often referred to as the Royal Coconut Coast. Appropriately named, considering the royal history and the abundance of ancient coconut groves from Wailua to Kapa‘a. Back in the 1300s, this area was called Kawaihau (the ice water), and it was the location of choice for Hawai‘i’s royalty. Kawaihau is mainly divided into four areas: Wailua, Kapa‘a, Waipouli and Ke‘alia. The kings chose Wailua to be the capital of Kaua‘i. High chiefs believed that the area around the mouth of the Wailua River was sacred and called it Wailua Nui Hoano or Great Sacred Wailua. This sacred area extended two miles up the Wailua River. Seven heiau (shrine) were built in an arc from the shores of Wailua up Mount Wai‘ale‘ale ending on the Westside of Kaua‘i. Royalty would come to Wailua from the neighboring islands to give birth at the birthstones of Holoholok‘u. When a king was born, a kahuna (priest) would take the child up the mountain to a bell stone. He would strike the bell stone with a rock, sounding the birth of a new king. No commoner was allowed in this area unless they were servicing a chief. You can view the birthstones and five different heiau at the Wailua River State Park. Please remember that this is a special place of worship and needs to be treated with respect. Do not leave offerings or move any rocks. Below the Wailua River State Park is Lydgate Beach. Two rock-lined seawater pools make it a haven for year round swimming. Above Wailua Park is Wailua homesteads. Here you will find many hiking trails and 100

freshwater swimming holes. Waipouli (dark water) is a little town between Wailua and Kapa‘a. Before all of the commercial development, Hawaiian royalty used this area to set sail to other locations in the Pacific. Due to the sudden popularity of fractional ownership, Waipouli is now a mile-long strip of shops and modern conveniences. Old Kapa‘a Town is the remnant of an old plantation town. Most of the buildings have been renovated and filled with boutiques, bars and restaurants, making Kapa‘a a hip little hot spot. Although, there are many beach parks in the area, be very careful about swimming here. The East Shore is best known for fishing, and the rocky shoreline can be very dangerous during high tide. As the locals say, “Never turn your back to the ocean.” If you’re driving north from Kapa‘a town, you will come across a large crescent shaped, golden sand beach called Keälia. The Kapa‘a Stream flows across the south end of the beach. You may see kayakers paddling in the stream or people rinsing off after a salty dip in the ocean. The area around the beach was once a 2,000-acre sugar plantation. Today, in an effort to preserve our agricultural past, Plantation Partners have converted the area into the largest agricultural subdivision on the island. Today the Coconut Coast is lined with newly renovated resorts, spas, condominiums and residences. They provide a getaway for travelers from around the globe. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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HIT THE BEACH

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SAND + SURF NORTH SHORE ‘ANINI BEACH PARK

This beautiful white sand beach has one of the largest coral reefs in Hawai‘i and has some of the best snorkeling in Kaua‘i for all levels. Swimming is among the safest in the North Shore, and a good place to learn how to windsurf. You can see magnificent sunsets from here. Grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy. Turn west on second Kalihiwai Rd between 25 and 26 mile markers. Take ‘Anini Road to beach.

HĀ‘ENA STATE PARK

This long stretch of white sand beach with a protective coral reef is a great snorkeling spot with a variety of colorful tropical fish when the water is calm. This is also a great place to beachcomb, surf, windsurf and fish. You can explore nearby sea caves carved out more than 4,000 years ago when the sea was higher. Camping, showers and restrooms are available. Located at the end of Kühiö Hwy.

HANALEI BAY

One of the most majestic places on earth, this spot is also a great place to learn to surf, frolic in the water, jump off the pier, or just enjoy the incredible scenery. The sunsets are spectacular and the moonlight over Hanalei Bay is magical. There are four beach parks included in the two-mile sandy crescent shaped bay, and all have lifeguards on duty except Waikoko Beach. Black Pot Park is located next to the Hanalei River mouth, with tropical foliage along the river’s edge, and is a local gathering place with a variety of water activities. The Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park is a popular spot for picnics. The water is generally calmer near the pier. Wai‘oli Beach Park is near the center of the bay, set in an ironwood grove. Waikoko Beach is located on the westernmost section, and is protected by Waikoko Reef, so it’s popular with snorkelers and families. Picnic area, tables, pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Located off Kühiö Hwy in Hanalei. Access beaches off Aku Rd or Weke Rd.

KA‘AKA‘ANIU “LARSEN’S” BEACH

This long, narrow ribbon of sand and shallow reef lies at the foot of a series of low hills and pastures. A protecting reef offers excellent snorkeling for the experienced, but only when the ocean is calm. Poor visibility in the water can occur in the late summer. Beware of its rocky bottom and dangerous rip currents, 104

and stay away from the channels. This secluded beach is also a good place to beachcomb and fish. There are two small pockets of sand on the opposite side of Pakala Point. No lifeguard and no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near the 20-mile marker, take Ko‘olau Rd. Take the left Beach Access Rd. to the end. Walk through the gate and follow the trail down.

KALIHIWAI BEACH

This wide sandy beach fringed with ironwood trees at the head of scenic Kalihiwai Bay is popular with boogie boarders and beginner surfers. Swimming is generally good in the summer. One of the nicest surfing breaks on the North Shore in the winter brings the more experienced out to this beach. Wide, shallow sand bar enables body boarders to ride decent waves in the front part of the beach. High surf periods create dangerous swimming conditions. Located off Kühiö Hwy west of Kïlauea on Kahihiwai Rd.

KAUAPEA “SECRET” BEACH

This exquisite, long and wide sandy beach with great views of Lighthouse Point is stunning. Swimming and snorkeling can be good when the ocean is calm. Swimming can be hazardous, so observe the ocean before entering. Look for the small waterfall flowing over the side of the cliff. You can see Moku‘ae‘ae Island, which is a bird sanctuary. Located off Kuhio Hwy on the same turnoff as Kalihiwai Beach. Take a right onto the first dirt road, drive to the end of the road and park. The hike down takes about 10-15 minutes.

KAWEONUI (SEALODGE) BEACH

This pocket of white sand beach backed by cliffs is a great place to snorkel and see honu in calm ocean conditions or just be secluded from the rest of the world. Beware of dangerous entry and currents. Offshore is a surf break known as “Little Grass Shack.” Located off Kamehameha Rd. Access beach from the trail at Building A at the SeaLodge Resort.

KĒ‘Ē BEACH

The Thornbirds and Lord of the Flies were filmed at this exquisite and very popular beach. With views of the Näpali Coast, it is great for snorkeling and swimming in the protected lagoon in calm conditions. Snorkelers and scuba divers can expect to see teems of tropical fish and honu (green sea turtles) on calm, clear days. Stay inside the reef for calmer waters. Beware of

strong currents and dangerous waves breaking on rocks and ledges. The currents are deceptively strong even on days when the water looks calm, so it’s best to stay in the reef-protected lagoon. The beach gets crowded with hikers and beachgoers, so get there early for a parking space. You may want to stay for the magnificent Näpali sunsets from the point. The trailhead for Kalalau Trail is from here. Bathrooms and showers are available. No lifeguards. Located at the end of the road on Hwy 56.

LUMAHA‘I BEACH (BALI HAI)

One of the most stunning and most photographed beaches in Kaua‘i, it was made famous as the location for the movie South Pacific. This large, wide beautiful golden sand beach is popular with a background of verdant foliage cliffs. Swimming is not recommended here, since there is no protective reef barrier to guard you against the tumultuous sea. Dangers include powerful waves sweeping up unsuspecting beachgoers off the rocks into the sea, strong undertow and dangerous shorebreaks. It’s a great beach to sunbathe and take in the incredible scenery. Access to the western part of the beach is located off Hwy 560 at Wainiha near mile marker 5. The eastern part of the beach is separated by a lava rock of Lumaha‘i is Kahalahala Beach. In calm conditions (summer), this beach can be a picturesque beach to swim in crystal clear warm water and explore the tidepools. No facilities or lifeguards. Park in the dirt parking lot. To access, hike down a steep jungle trail from the top of the lookout.

MĀKUA “TUNNELS” BEACH

This is one of the best snorkeling beaches due to the wide-fringing reef with a huge variety of fish swimming around in the shallow inner and outer reefs. The exceptional beach is surrounded by gently sloping sand and is well protected with incredible mountain scenery popular with swimmers, surfers, windsurfers and beachcombers. The best snorkeling is in the center by the crescent shaped reef. Scuba divers can explore the underwater caverns near the shore. Beware of sharp reefs, rip currents and dangerous water conditions. No facilities at this beach, but the facilities at Hä‘ena State Park are nearby. Lifeguard on duty. Take one of two dirt roads off Hwy 56 north of Hanalei near the 8 mile marker.

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MOLOA‘A BEACH

Surrounded by rolling hills, this beach is secluded and off the beaten path, with a wide crescent shaped sandy beach perfect for couples to catch a spectacular sunset or sunbathe, swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Be cautious of dangerous water conditions. The southeast side of the beach offers the best swimming and boogie boarding with plenty of shade. The beach is located where the Molo‘a (matted roots) Stream feeds into the bay. Located off Ko‘olau Rd. between mile markers 16 and 17. Take the narrow Moloa‘a Rd. to the end and follow the signs to the beach.

NĀPALI COAST PARK

About a two mile hike down from the Kalalau Trail is Hanakäpï‘ai Beach. The beach is beautiful but dangerous to swim. A difficult two mile hike inland near the stream leads to the waterfalls and a spectacular pool. Kalalau Beach is a long and wide sandy beach backed by sand dunes, located at the end of the trail (9 additional miles). There are other beautiful pristine beaches such as Miloli‘i Beach and Honopu Beach in the park, but they are only accessible by boat. Swimming and wading is dangerous due to strong currents and powerful waves at all the beaches in this awe-inspiring park. Camping is allowed with a permit. No lifeguard on duty. Access the beach from Kalalau Trail from Kë‘ë Beach at the end of Hwy 56.

PALI KE KUA (HIDEAWAYS)

Two beaches separated by a rocky point both have excellent snorkeling with a variety of tropical fish when the water is calm. Check ocean conditions carefully before entering for rip currents and do not enter when there is high surf. The large false kamani trees offer shade on the bed of coarse sand. People are scarce due to limited parking and hidden trail. Located off Ka Haku Rd. Take the path next to Pu‘u Poa tennis courts just before you reach the Princeville Hotel gatehouse and hike down to the beach.

PU‘U POA BEACH

Protected by a narrow reef offers great snorkeling with teems of colorful fish in crystal clear water. Safe when the surf is not high. The sandy beach is located directly below Princeville Hotel. Park at the small public parking lot. Take the beach access steps by the guardhouse at the hotel entrance.

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WAIAKALUA BEACH

A fabulous secluded beach with a long, fringing reef and shade along the sandy beach. Snorkeling and swimming can be good if the ocean is calm. There is a cool freshwater stream at the far end of the beach. Beware of dangerous rip currents, surges and high surf. Located off North Waiakalua Rd. Before the road ends, take the dirt road on the left side all the way to the end. Take the trail to the left and it’s the beach on the left. The beach on the right, past the Kepuhi Point is Waipakä Beach.

EAST SIDE ‘ALIOMANU BEACH

Pretty sandy beach shaded by ironwood trees and fringed by one of Kaua‘i’s longest reefs, this beach is a favorite of locals for gathering seaweed and spearfishing. Swimming can be safe in the lagoon when calm. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Aliomanu Rd.

ANAHOLA BEACH PARK

Grassy park with a beautiful sandy beach with good swimming conditions most of the time in the cove on the east side of the bay due to a large protective reef offshore. Snorkeling is good at the nearby reef; fishing and beachcombing are also good. The beach used mostly by locals is good for boogie board, body board and surf south of the old pier. The ironwood grove offers shade. Picnic tables, restrooms and showers are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Anahola Rd.

DONKEY (KUMUKUMU) BEACH

A fantastic long sandy beach in a cove at the base of a pasture named Donkey Beach because of the herd of mules that rested on the beach in the early plantation days. The waves draw in many surfers but it’s not a good beach for beginners. The winters yield high surf making swimming dangerous. Beware of steep entry, dangerous shorebreaks, strong currents and rocks submerged in the surf. Snorkeling can be good in a secluded cove north of the stream and over a small hill. No facilities or lifeguards. Located north of Kapa‘a ~ 1/2 mile north of the 11 mile marker off Hwy 56. Parking lot is at the top of the path to the beach. Hike 10 minutes to shoreline and take right for the beach; turn north and walk past the stream for the secluded cove.

FUJI BEACH (BABY BEACH)

Protected shallow section in the reef by a long, natural breakwater makes it a great place to have some water fun with the kids while you soak up the sun on the sandy beach. No facilities or lifeguards. Located off Kühiö Hwy behind the Chevron in Kapa‘a.

KEĀLIA BEACH

A long, exquisite sandy beach with powerful waves makes it a great spot to watch experienced surfers and boogie boarders. Swimming can be done on calm days at the far northern end of the beach, which is protected by breakwater, but be careful of strong currents and sharp reefs. Public parking. Lifeguard on duty but no facilities. Located off Hwy 56 near mile marker 10 north of Kapa‘a in Keälia.

LYDGATE STATE PARK

A scenic family beach that is very popular since it offers something for everyone including a park. There are two large lava pools great for children and offers safe swimming and snorkeling for beginners. Rock wall protects swimmers year-round and the ironwood groves provide shade. Kamalani playground has a wooden volcano; jungle gym and bright ceramic sea creatures adorn the playground. Picnic pavilions, grills, showers and restrooms are available. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kühiö Hwy on Leho Drive just south of the Wailua River.

NUKOLI‘I BEACH

Beautiful long narrow stretch of beach with shallow bottom offers an array of water activities. The beach stretches for miles to Lydgate Park swimming and snorkeling can be good in the well-protected reef and shallow waters when surf is calm. Fishing and surfing are also good here. Check ocean conditions before entering. There are more secluded beaches further north near Wailua Golf Coarse. Located at the end of Kaua‘i Beach Drive.

WAILUA BEACH

Long, wide golden sand beach near the Wailua River is good for taking a stroll or watching the experienced boogie boarders, surfers or watching the river flow into the sea. Swimming is dangerous due to strong rip currents and rough water. Children sometimes play near the river mouth when the currents aren’t strong. No facilities and no lifeguard. Located across from Coco Palms Resort. The beach is easily accessible when traveling north off Kühiö Hwy. 105

SAND + SURF WAIPŌULI BEACH

A long stretch of golden sand without crowds isn’t good for swimming since the ocean is rough and the coastline is rocky or reef, but it’s a great beach to watch windsurfers and fishermen pull in their catch. The beach has lots of hidden coves for seclusion and can be romantic. There is also a nice trail to jog while you take in the glorious scenery. Monk seals have been spotted quite frequently here. Located off Kühiö Hwy. There are many access points behind Coconut Marketplace.

LĪHU‘E & SOUTH SHORE BRENNECKE’S BEACH

A small sandy beach is popular with boogie boarders and honu. Waves tend to be bigger here in the summer than winter. Grassy area with picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. Located on Po‘ipü Rd.

HO‘AI (PRINCE KŪHIŌ) BEACH

A beautiful sandy crescent shaped beach with water protected by an offshore reef great for keiki and novice snorkelers when water is calm. This beach is popular for the honu (green sea turtles) and local fishermen who frequent the beach. Restrooms and showers are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located off Läwa‘i Rd. in front of the Prince Kühiö Park.

HO‘ONA “BABY” BEACH

Great sandy beach for keiki (children) since the water is calm in a small cove behind off shore lava rocks. Access the beach using the walkway on Ho‘ona Rd. off Läwa‘i Rd.

KALAPAKĪ BEACH

This is a beautiful sandy crescent-shaped beach with tranquil water and a great place to learn to surf on the offshore break with great views of pali in the bay. It’s a great place to swim when conditions are calm. Beware of strong rip currents during high surf. Located off Rice St. west of Lïhu‘e in front of the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort and Beach Club. Park in the public parking lot at the hotel.

LĀWA‘I (BEACH HOUSE) BEACH

Small sandy beach is popular with snorkelers when the water is calm for the variety of fish in the offshore reef. It’s also a popular surfing spot for the waves that break offshore. Surfing competitions are held regularly here in spring thru fall. The small pocket of sand disappears in times of high surf. Beware of seasonal strong currents. The beach is located next to the Beach House Restaurant off Läwa‘i Rd.

MĀHĀ‘ULEPŪ BEACH

A long, beautiful and romantic beach with mountain vistas is a two mile sandy strand along a reef-protected shoreline and high sand dunes. The beauty of this beach was captured in the movie Islands in the Stream where George C. Scott played Ernest Hemingway. It’s good for swimming only during extreme calm conditions. Windsurfing, beachcombing and shoreline fishing are popular activities. This is a sacred site 106

for native Hawaiians and for endangered plants and species. No facilities and no lifeguards. Beach is closed from 7pm to 7:30am. Follow the cane road past Shipwreck Beach. Stop at the guard gate to get through.

NININI BEACHES

Ninini Beach and Running Waters Beach are hidden and out of the way beaches with pockets of sand separated by a lava rock formation. Protected and secluded, the beaches are good for snorkeling on calm days. Park across the street from the Kaua‘i Lagoons Golf Course or the clubhouse parking lot and follow path to beaches. Between Kalapakï beach and the lighthouse on Ninini Point near the 13th green.

PO‘IPŪ BEACH PARK

Po‘ipü Beach in the county park is nationally ranked and popular because the sunny weather and calm water that surrounds the chain of beautiful wide, white sandy beaches. An offshore reef causes the waves to break before they reach the shore making it a keikifriendly beach. Swimming and snorkeling are great between the offshore reef and the coast while the breaking waves outside the calm waters create surfing and boogie boarding opportunities. The protected beach area is great for novice snorkelers. Dangerous water conditions can occur during periods of high surf. Beginning surf lessons are available as well as a nearby playground. Lifeguards, picnic tables, pavilions, showers and restrooms are also available. Located off Po‘ipü Rd. south of Ho‘owili Rd.

SHIPWRECK (KEONELOA) BEACH

A lovely beach to sunbathe but not a good swimming beach due to dangerous ocean conditions is named for an old unidentified shipwreck. On the left is Makawehi Point where you will see fishermen surf casts and brave locals jumping into the sea as did Harrison Ford and Anne Heche from Six Days, Seven Nights. It’s a good beach for boogie boarding, surfing and windsurfing for the experienced. Showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguard on duty. Located in front of the Hyatt. Take public access road between the Hyatt and the Po‘ipü Bay Resort Golf Course.

WEST SIDE BARKING SANDS BEACH

The beach is a continuation of the long white sand beach with superb vistas of Ni‘ihau and incredible sunsets. The name is due to the sound the sand sometimes makes when sliding down the 60’ high dunes along the beach but watch out for the thorns from the kiawe trees. Swimming is not recommended on this beach due to dangerous ocean conditions. Located between Kekaha Beach and Polihale Beach on the northern part of the Pacific Missiles Range off Kaumuali‘i.

KEKAHA BEACH PARK

This is the first beach of the series and is an exquisite long stretch of white sand with spectacular sunsets and many great surfing spots along the way. The

beach offers clear views of Ni‘ihau. This area is almost always sunny and shade is absent. Picnic area, grills, pavilions, showers and restrooms are available. Swimming can be extremely dangerous. Lifeguard on duty. Located off Kaumuali‘i Hwy.

PĀKALĀ (INFINITIES) BEACH

The beach is picturesque and surrounded by lush tropical foliage and trees and a favorite spot for experienced surfers. This is not a good swimming beach due to murky water known for shark sightings and other dangerous ocean conditions, but it’s a great place to watch the locals surf and catch a magical sunset. The reef is called “Infinities” because it creates long perfect waves. Located by 21-mile marker off Hwy 50.

POLIHALE BEACH

The longest and widest stretch of beach in the Hawaiian Islands, this 7-mile white sandy beach is breathtaking and considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Kaua‘i. The name means, “a leaping off place for spirits” or “house of death”. The usually sunny beach is framed by the majestic Näpali Coast and has sweeping sand dunes that can get up to 100 feet high and you can catch amazing sunsets with views of Ni‘ihau. This remote area is a great place to stargaze. The only safe place to swim is in the Queen’s Pond where the fringing reef offers protection from the extremely strong currents when the surf isn’t high; beware of sharp coral. Picnic tables, showers and restrooms are available. No lifeguards. Camping by permit only. Located at end of Rte 50. Take left onto the bumpy dirt road and drive several miles. Follow signs to beach.

SALT POND BEACH PARK

The protected reef in this pretty crescent shaped beach with lots of palms is great for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing. Swimming is usually safe year round in the large lagoon and the sunsets are spectacular. Salt ponds are nearby where generations past made salt by evaporating seawater in red earthen pans and still do today. Please do not enter the salt-making area. The beach is also great for windsurfing, boogie boarding and exploring the tidepools. Lifeguard on duty. Picnic tables, pavilions, grills, camping, restrooms and showers are available. Located in Hanapëpë. Take left turn on Lele past town off Kaumuali‘i Hwy and right on Lokokai Rd. to park. EDITOR’S NOTE: There is a wise saying in Hawai‘i, “Leave only footprints and take only memories.” Please take all your trash and don’t take anything that does not belong to you including those that belong to the sea. It’s best to leave your valuables at your hotel and not in your car, so the time can be spent relaxing and not worrying. Conditions change with the seasons, so take the time to evaluate the sea and read the beach safety. It is highly recommended to visit beaches with lifegauards on duty. Visit kauailifeguards.org for more safety information. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

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KAUA‘I EVENTS ONGOING LIVE MUSIC AT SHUTTER’S LOUNGE (Everyday) – Listen to great live music while dining on well-priced, delicious food every evening including late night fare and small plates at Shutter’s Lounge at Kauaÿi Beach Resort located in Lïhuÿe. Open Sunday through Thursday from 5pm to 11pm and 5pm to midnight on Fridays and Saturdays. Call Kauaÿi Beach Resort (808) 245-1955 for more information. WAIMEA HISTORIC WALKING TOUR (Mondays) – Take a 2.5-hour walk back through time in the place where Captain Cook first landed in Waimea. Where the agricultural landscape changed from taro to rice to corn, watered by an intricate ditch system with a marvelous history dating back to the time of the legendary Menehune. Learn about the last King of Kauaÿi, the missionaries, and other famous citizens of Waimea along with the landmarks they left behind. Enjoy a taste of the past in one of the most historic towns in all of Hawaiÿi. Registration is required for participation and Special Group tours are available. Free. Call West Kauaÿi Tech & Visitor Center (808) 3381332 for more information. GROVE FARM MUSEUM TOUR (Mon., Wed., Thurs.) – An unhurried, 2-hour guided tour of the 100-acre Grove Farm site preserves one of Hawaiÿi’s sugar plantation buildings, furnishings and collections, surrounding orchards and pasturelands. This homestead was the center of operations for the developing sugar plantation and involved the relationship of family life, plantation activity, household work, gardening and farming and continues as part of the experience of visiting Grove Farm. Advance reservations are required (10am to 1pm). Fee: $20 for adults and $10 for ages 5-12. Call (808) 245-3202. KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET (Wednesdays) – Meet Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors, as well as Kukui‘ula Village merchants and enjoy Chef Demonstration at 5pm with Kaua‘i grown produce, and listen to Hawaiian and local style music. Wine and beer garden, freshly grilled püpü and sweet treats, and 20 Kaua‘i growers and package food vendors make for a lively fun evening. Stay for dinner and shopping at the great retail shops and restaurants. Every 108

Wednesday from 3:30pm to 6pm at Kukui‘ula Village in Po‘ipü. HANAPĒPĒ FRIDAY NIGHT FESTIVAL & ART WALK (Fridays) – Come join the festivity! Every Friday evening, Old Town Hanapëpë is bustling with fun and activity! With a wide variety of shopping, local crafters, several excellent restaurants, a dozen art galleries, stilt walkers, classics cars, live music and entertainment, there is always something for the whole family to enjoy! From 6pm-9pm. Call Ed (808) 335-6469. ALOHA FRIDAY: MAKE A LEI,WEAR A LEI (Fridays) - Come and enjoy making fresh flower lei and learn the different methods of lei making. Materials are provided. Workshop in Waimea at West Kauaÿi Visitor Center. Free. For more info, call (808) 338-1332. KAUA‘I COMMUNITY MARKET (Saturdays) - New weekend value-added farmers market hosted by the Kauaÿi County Farm Bureau and Kauaÿi Community College. Kauaÿi Community Market features a wide variety of locally grown fruit and produce, value added products like coffee, honey and goat cheese, plus culinary treats, breakfast and lunch items to eat at the market or take home. Learn ways to grow and prepare local foods, educational demos and garden tours held regularly. A great way to buy fresh and buy local, supporting Kauaÿi Grown products and Kauaÿi farmers from Hanalei to Kekaha. At Kauaÿi Community College front lawn and parking lot from 9:30am to 1pm. Free. Call (808) 652-3217. KAUA‘I ISLAND CRAFTERS FAIR (Saturdays) - You will find an amazing array of quality hand-made products from Kaua‘i’s own crafters and artisans. Beautifully-crafted handbags, fabric angels, Hawaiian quilts, Hawaiian dolls, towel wraps, Kauaÿi scenic photography & paintings & fiber arts, carved hardwood tikis & bone jewelry, beachwear cover-up, sunrise shell jewelry, souvenirs and lots more by local Kauaÿi artists. This is where you will find that unique gift for that joyous occasion or special someone that will be cherished for years (8am to 2pm). Place: Church of the Pacific, 5-4280 Kühiö Highway, Princeville. Proceeds to benefit The Church of the Pacific. Contact (808) 635-4314.

‘OHANA DAY (Monthly) – The first Saturday of each month is ‘Ohana Day for family fun at the Kauaÿi Museum. Look forward to demonstrations, lectures and more during these special days. 10am to 5pm at the Kauaÿi Museum in Lïhuÿe. Free for kamaÿäina, and discounted for visitors. Call (808) 245-6931. PRINCEVILLE NIGHT MARKET (Monthly) - Princeville Night Market is a monthly festival, held every second Sunday, featuring live music and local artisans at the Princeville Shopping Center. Discover 40+ local artisans as you walk around the grounds from 4pm to 8pm. Listen to live music from several different bands. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! For more info, email PrincevilleNightMarket@gmail.com. KĪLAUEA ART NIGHT (Monthly) - Kïlauea Art Night is a monthly festival held on the last Saturday of each month featuring live music, local artisans and trendy food trucks. Line up for pulled-pork sandwiches and fresh fish tacos, stretch out on blankets while listening to the band. Walk around the grounds to discover 40+ local artisans. Find pottery, paintings, photography, apparel, jewelry, wood workers and more! Held at Anaina Hou Community Park. Email KilaueaArtNight@ gmail.com for more info. KEIKI DAY AT NA ‘ĀINA BOTANICAL GARDENS & SCULPTURE PARK (Sept. 30, Oct. 14, Nov. 18) – Na ÿÄina Kai’s playday is a monthly event where you can enjoy quality time with your kids in the “Under the Rainbow” Children’s Garden. Kids can get wet and play in Jack’s fountain, explore the jungle tree house and discover the many child-friendly features of the Children’s Garden. Bring a towel, and be prepared to get wet. Outside snacks are permitted and reservations are recommended ($10/person, free for children under 1 years old). Oct. 14th is the annual Halloween Event in lieu of Keiki Day (fee is $10/advance, $12/door) from 4-7pm. Included in the entry fee are games, prizes, face painting, and more! Costumes are encouraged. Concessions are available for purchase. For more info or to make reservations, call (808) 828-0525 or visit naainakai.org/keikiday. KAUA‘I TRAVELER

MĀLIE FOUNDATION: KAUA‘I MOKIHANA FESTIVALS (Sept. 24-30) – Kaua‘i Mokihana Festival is a weeklong celebration of Hawaiian culture and includes educational lectures, craft fairs, music and hula competitions at various locations around the island of Kaua‘i. The finale cannot be missed, as a solo competition will enchant the audience before the competing hälau and audience wait breathlessly as the judges announce the winners. Various venues and fees. Call (808) 651-1868 or visit MalieFoundation. org for detailed information on events and locations. OCTOBER 21ST ANNUAL COCONUT FESTIVAL (Oct. 7-8) - The Kapaÿa Business Association presents the Annual Coconut Festival at Kapaÿa Beach Park! Celebrate all that is Coconut with unique coconut crafts, coconut games, delicious coconut foods and contests with some of the best crafters, artists and entertainers in Hawaiÿi! Enjoy non-stop music, taiko drummers, hula, and fun. Non-stop live music. Lots of fun for keiki, too. With a children’s stage, petting zoo, inflatables and coconut activities. Cooking demos by some of the island’s best chefs. Fee is $5. For more info, call Mike (808) 822-5381. EO E EMALANI I ALAKA‘I (Oct. 14) -Since 1988, Hui o Laka/Kökeÿe Museum has hosted “Eo e Emalani i Alakaÿi” to commemorate a historic event honoring Queen Emma’s 1871 visit to Kökeÿe and Alakaÿi Swamp. Each year people are chosen to represent Queen Emma, Kaluahi, and attendants. Invited hula hälau from around the state and Japan honor their queen with dances and chants honoring Kaleleonälani—Traveler of the Mountains. The event starts at 9am along with exhibits, crafts and snack sales in the Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow. After the Queen’s party rides into the Meadow at 11am, a dozen hälau perform dances and chants honoring Queen Emma. There is myhawaiitraveler.com

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SEPTEMBER KAUA‘I MUSEUM PRESENTS ROBERT CAZIMERO IN CONCERT (Sept. 21) - A fundraiser to benefit our education program. Doors open at 5:30pm, No host cocktail/püpü at 6pm and concert from 7pm to 8:30pm. For more information or to order your tickets, please contact the museum at (808) 2456931 or visit our website www.kauaimuseum.org.

KAUA‘I CULINARY MARKET

Wednesdays at The Shops at Kukui‘ula no admission although donations are accepted at the Kökeÿe Museum. Parking is extremely limited with carpooling strongly suggested. Shuttle service is in the works from Kekaha and Waimea Neighborhood Centers. NOVEMBER VETERANS DAY PARADE (Nov. 4) – The annual parade honors veterans and is made up of the following participants: the County of Kauaÿi as well as each military service and the civilian population of Kauaÿi. Also as part of this event, there will be food and craft booths and entertainment at the Historic County Building grounds. From 9:30am to 2pm; free. For more info, call Russel (808) 652-4802. DECEMBER CHRISTMAS CRAFT FAIR AND LIGHTS ON RICE PARADE! (Dec. 1) – Come and celebrate Christmas with the Kauaÿi Museum as you create crafts of all sorts and watch stunning floats as they glow and glisten along Rice Street! Craft fair all day from 10am-9pm Lights on Rice Street parade starts at 6:30pm, but go early to place yourself on Rice Street. For more info, call the museum at (808) 245-6931.

FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS (Dec. 1-30) – Come on by…it’s free! The Park lights glow every night through the New Year. The Festival of Lights interior display of Auntie Josie’s gorgeous creations and the dazzling creations crafted by Kauaÿi artisans is open every Friday, Saturday and Sunday evening from 6-8 p.m. through Christmas Eve with Santa and Mrs. Claus. It’s all free!! The Festival of Lights is sponsored by the County of Kauaÿi, the Hawaiÿi Tourism Authority and the Friends of the Festival of Lights. It is truly a reflection of Kauaÿi’s Spirit of Aloha. Visit KauaiFestivalOfLights.com for more information. NEW YEAR’S EVE CELEBRATION (Dec. 31) - From 5:30-9pm on the grounds of Poÿipü Beach Park in celebration of the successes of 2017 and future prosperity of 2017. The event includes food trucks, live entertainment or a movie in the park, activities for the keiki and spectacular display of fireworks. The event is free (except for food/drink) and open to the public providing attendees an opportunity to enjoy this traditional celebration in a beautiful, ocean-side environment. All events are subject to change. Check out MyHawaiiTraveler.com for updates and events. 109

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KAUAâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I TRAVELER

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KAUA‘I FOR YOUR INFORMATION Area Code (808) for entire state

EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance/Police/Fire Civil Defense Poison Control Wilcox Memorial Hospital

911 733-4300 1-800-362-3585 245-1100

AIRPORTS

Līhu‘e Ariport

AIRLINES

Alaska Airlines American Airlines go! Airlines Hawaiian Airlines Japan Airlines United Airlines

CREDIT CARDS

American Express MasterCard Visa Credit Card Directory

TRANSPORTATION

Hertz Car Rental Bus Taxi

246-1448

1-800-654-5669 1-800-433-7300 1-888-IFLYGO2 1-800-882-8811 1-800-525-3663 1-800-241-6522

1-800-221-7282 1-800-307-7309 1-800-847-2911 1-800-555-1212

1-800-654-3011 241-6410 246-9554

WEATHER/CONDITIONS Weather Forecast Marine Forecast

245-6001 245-3564

VISITOR INFORMATION Directory 1-800-555-1212 Information 411 Agricultural Inspection 245-2831 Hawai‘i County Parks 241-4463 Hawai‘i State Parks 274-3444 Fishing License 274-3344 Hunting License 274-3433 Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce 245-7363 Kaua‘i Visitors Information 1-800-262-1400

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