Italy Rediscover the Grand Tour by Amenities Magazine

ITALY REDISCOVER THE GRAND TOUR

IN ASSOCIATION WITH:

TUSCANY (TOSCANA)

LATINA (LAZIO)

16 CAMPANIA

26 VENETO

44 ABRUZZO

ITALY REDISCOVER THE GRAND TOUR

Published by TravelPlus Media Limited PO Box 1121 Yalding Maidstone ME18 6WU United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0) 1892 730678 Website: www.travelplus.co.uk

IN ASSOCIATION WITH:

Cover photo: Villa Cimbrone

Publisher: Simon Avenel-Ward Italian Bureau Chief: Maria Avino Editorial Contributor: Mike Taylor Contributor: Francesco Capelli Graphic Designer: David Jenner Photographers: Armando Cerzosimo Ciro Fundaro’ Ed Lancaster Special Thanks: Fawn Wilson White The Italian Tourist Board in London Tourist Boards/Departments of the Regions Printed by: Esquire Print Ltd Design and Production: TravelPlus Media Limited

© TravelPlus Media Limited 2010 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, photographic or otherwise without the prior permission of TravelPlus Media Limited. Photos are used with the permission from respective owners and/or copyright holders or are copyright free.

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welcome the grand tour – a few centuries ago – was traditionally the apex of a gentleman’s classical Education and a rite of passage as it was the best way for him to become acquainted with so many exquisite treasures of beauty and history. It was a fascinating journey available only to a “happy few” upper class youths of means and a “once in a lifetime” travel experience. now, it has been democratised and made much easier. still, it remains a treat, which has to be well-prepared and approached with the right attitude in order to be savoured to the full. Do not try to look at only what you already know and expect to see, be open to surprises and discoveries, be ready to change your mind. It is not a pre-cooked experience. with enough ingenuity and curiosity as well as a positive spirit it could be great fun. and, having enjoyed it once, it may be replicated as many times as wished. Italy has no shortage of beautiful landscapes, fine weather, artistic monuments, historical sites, good music and excellent food. all very different aspects but all reaching the same highest possible standard in the quality of life. Do give it a try, you may well become addicted!

Minister giovanni Brauzzi Italian Embassy in London

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Baglioni HOTELS Hotels BAGLIONI luxury HOTELS Hotels WITH witH LUXURY an ITALIAN italian TOUCH toucH AN

the Baglioni Hotels group was created in 1973, when roberto Polito purchased his first establishment in tuscany, in Punta ala (Hotel cala del Porto), working with his wife lisa to develop a unique concept of hospitality in terms of life experience: a journey into italian style through its culture and different traditions. with this in mind, Baglioni Hotels has developed a collection which today counts fifteen exclusive hotels and one residence, mostly hosted in period buildings and in the historic centres of the major cities of art. there are nine hotels in italy, five in France and one in the heart of london, a hotel inaugurated in March 2004 which marked a significant turning point in the chain’s design concept. the new london style has renewed the brand image, proposing a less formal, pompous idea of elegance, whilst retaining the sophisticated refinement of the details and materials which make the difference. it is a concept of contemporary luxury aimed at a public sensitive to new trends. in this guide we show case the hotels in italy, however we must not forget the Baglioni hotels in london and in France. the Baglioni Hotel london faces Hyde Park and Kensington Palace and in France, from epernay, in the north, to aix-en-Provence in the south, there are stunning Baglioni hotels the chateau de Mirambeau, situated between Bordeaux and cognac, charente Maritime, Villa gallici, in aix-en-Provence, royal champagne, near epernay, in the champagne region, chateau de codignat in the auvergne and the Hotel le saint Paul in the medieval village of saint Paul de Vence, côte d’azur Baglioni Hotels Milan Head office Via della Moscova, 18 20121 Milan (italy)

tel: +39 02 36661966 www.baglionihotels.com

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THE GRAND TOUR

the first recognisable grand tourists emerged at the end of the sixteenth century. Before then, in the Middle ages, there had been mass movements of people from Britain visiting the continent, but this had almost always been for religious reasons. In 1428, for example it is recorded that 925 shiploads of pilgrims left England for northern spain and the shrine of st James of compostella. the Reformation put an end to these pilgrimages. It was not until the end of the religious wars in France, which had lasted from the 1560s to the 1590s, that it was safe for Protestant Englishmen to wander freely through the largely catholic continent. only then did people start journeying again in any numbers. It must be remembered that the greater part of a boy’s education at that time would have been in the languages, literature and history of classical greece and Rome. the aim of the grand tour was to allow him, and the grand tourists were most frequently but not always male, to set foot on the classic ground about which he had learnt so much. In practice for the great majority this meant a visit to Italy, as visits to greece were much rarer because of the difficulties in travelling. the grand tour was the culmination of the rich young Englishman’s education and he was expected to return enriched with knowledge of the classical past. civilisation was considered to be the legacy of greece and Rome and the young man was expected to return after his lengthy and costly journey with the socially desirable skills of the connoisseur of the classical world. Indeed it was the classical world which was of primary interest. anything Romanesque or gothic was excluded from the itinerary. henry swinburne writing in 1783 considered the magnificent norman cathedral at Monreale near Palermo ‘a very disagreeable specimen of gothic taste’. Palladian and Baroque architecture and post-Raphaelite painting and sculpture were included however.

apart from the art and classical ruins there were many other things to do and see, starting with the natural beauties of the landscape. Impressive natural phenomena vesuvius and Etna attracted many visitors as did the famous glaciers above chamonix. there were famous personalities to see and meet for these young men of rich and influential English families. the Royal courts in France and in naples were a major centre of social and cultural life in Europe at that time. there were operas to see and there were all the processions, music and relics of the Roman catholic church which the Protestant Englishman enjoyed with a mixture if guilty fascination and amused superiority. there was also the hope for those in ill health of a change of temperature, medicinal waters and a different diet. Last but not least there was for many the attraction of behaving badly away from home. the gaming tables in the European cities were famous for their heavy wins and losses, and in that environment it was easy to find the services of prostitutes of either sex. we read articles in newspapers today and see television programmes rightly deploring the exploitation of what is called ‘sex tourism’ Unfortunately this is nothing new and some of the grand tourists were certainly more interested in debauching themselves than visiting the classical ruins.

Many of the young men travelled with a tutor who was often either a clergyman or a fellow from one of the University colleges. these tutors, nicknamed ‘bear leaders’ was supposed to oversee the young man’s morals and studies and look after the practicalities of travel and accommodation. the presence of these figures indicates that there were deeper reasons behind the growth of the grand tour. the state of the English universities of oxford and cambridge was a major factor. of his time at oxford the great writer Edward gibbon (1737–1794) said, ‘I spent fourteen months at Magdalen college: they proved the most idle and unprofitable of my whole life.’ Because of the lack of organisation and real study many fathers chose not to send their sons to university at all. In the whole of 1733 christ’s college cambridge admitted only three students. the time between school and marriage had to be filled somehow and preferable in a way which allowed to young man to let off his high spirits without doing harm to his family’s reputation and also to acquire at least a veneer of culture. the growth of prosperity in England at that time was also a contributing factor. England was an expanding economy on the brink of the Industrial Revolution with extensive trade with the american colonies and India. this financial expansion meant that not only the sons of the aristocracy were travelling on the tour, but also the children of the newly emergent, influential educated middle classes. we should not underestimate the difficulties and inconvenience of travelling such large distances at that time. the books written by the grand tourists are full of complaints about the roads, the food and the accommodation they found on the road. the machinery of modern European tourism – good roads, railways, air travel,

hotels restaurants, credit cards etc. – was completely absent. Eighteenth century Europe was potentially dangerous and very uncomfortable place in which to journey. Restaurants as we know them did not exist – they were to come into being after the French revolution when they were started by cooks made jobless by the fall of their aristocratic employers. The roads were universally poor with the best being in France and the worst in Germany. But these were nothing compared with the inns were travellers had to sleep the night. James Adam, younger brother of the famous architect Robert Adam, stayed at Capua in 1760 and he paid dearly for trusting the quality of the bed in the local inn: Half and hour after going to bed I was so attacked in flank, front and rear by six battalions of bugs and four squadrons of fleas that I was soon put to flight and obliged to take my night’s quarters upon three straw chairs in the middle of the room.

The end of the eighteenth century also saw the end of the Grand Tour. The unrest caused by the French Revolution made travel difficult in France, and the subsequent Napoleonic Wars caused disruption on an even greater scale. By the time Europe had settled down and travelling had become safe again, the world had changed.

The spread of railways and growth of hotels made travelling easier. There was also a change in attitude and taste. With the growth of the Romantic Movement and the onset of the Victorian period Italian Gothic supplanted the High Renaissance and the classical as models of study. Shorter holidays were sufficient for the more earnest and less riotous Victorians to absorb the natural and architectural beauties. The Grand Tour, lasting two years or more, as a formative experience for the young rich hedonistic Englishman had come to an end. However, it has left us with a rich and amusing literature which provides us with excellent descriptions of The most important travellers took their own what it was like to live and travel in the artists with them to record the sights, like Europe of two hundred years ago. walking animated cameras. Lord Palmerston took William Parrs, while William Beckford had J R Cozens as well as a personal physician and a harpsichordist. To our great good fortune a man called Richard Payne Knight took with him to Sicily the great watercolorist Jakob Philipp Hackett, whose pictures today are expensive collector’s items. After 1763 the Grand Tour was truly at its height. Paris, Venice, Rome and Naples were the preferred destinations and these cities were flooded with the English. Not only the sons of the aristocracy and the very rich but also lesser gentry, literary figures and the middle aged accompanied by wives and families. In these latter cases the main purpose was travel and entertainment rather educational. But even as the Grand Tour reached its height it was shortly to decline.

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il PERO Pero IL

the taxis family moved to tuscany in 2002 and they have never looked back! restoring their 1782 stone farmhouse in sympathy with its historic importance, embracing the character of the house and bringing a sad ruin back to vibrant life. incorporated in the house there are now holiday cottages available so that the family can now share their beautiful home with others. the doors were open to guests 5 years ago and many happy guests and stayed and returned many a time.

il Pero offers many pleasurable experiences to guests whilst holidaying in magical tuscany. set in a rural landscape with long views over the Val di chiana and beyond. relax by the pool, take a gentle walk in the surrounding countryside. sample the elixir of many italian fine wines, exquisite food both at home and in the plethora of superb restaurants in the area. enjoy home produced olive oil drizzled over fresh produce from the kitchen garden. children will enjoy the pool, all the animals and the daily search for fresh eggs from our extremely free range chickens, as well as the open space of the gardens. if you wish to venture out of the valley, you are in a prime position to explore the best of tuscany. From il Pero you are a short trip from the historic towns of arezzo and cortona, Florence, siena, Montepulciano, orvieto and many other etruscan, roman and Medieval delights.

win a week’s Family holiday (up to 4 children) answer the following questions about arezzo: 1. who was the aretino who invented written music? a. Francesco Petrarca b. guido Monaco c. andrea cesalpino 2. who painted ‘the legend of the true cross’ in the church of san Francesco in arezzo? a. Piero della Francesco b. giorgio Varsari c. Francesco severi 3. what was giorgio Vasari, born in arezzo in 1511 famous for? a. Painter b. architect c. Poet to enter click here

the holiday accommodation, offers 4 self catering guest cottages, ‘il Pastore’ which sleeps up to six. also ‘il contadino’, which sleep up to five. Both fully equipped with good kitchens including both a dishwasher and a washing machine. a sitting room and a dining area, with a further outside dining area under ivy covered pergolas. the ‘cassetta del’orologio’; l’alba and il tramonto, both of them perfect for two people providing cosy comfort, with sitting room, kitchen dining area and luxurious bedroom and shower room. For bed and breakfast ‘la torre’ – a suite set in a tower, standing majestically on the top of il Pero itself. it is an ideal romantic getaway for couples. Breakfast served on the double arched loggia based in morning sunlight. something for everyone. weddings receptions and anniversary parties are regularly organised in the banqueting hall with in house catering. courses in photography, painting, cooking and the italian language run by experts and professionals are organises on request when bookings are taken. the countryside is breathtaking and tuscany so intoxicating – you will be back for more! For further details contact: il Pero loc. Manziana 15 52100 arezzo

tel: +39 0575 97 95 93 fax: +39 3331 87 87 57 info@ilpero.com www.ilpero.com

TUSCANY tuscany (TOSCANA) (toscana)

It is the balance and harmony between the man-made and the natural which I think is at the origin of the deep attraction which tuscany exerts. nowhere else in Italy do the buildings you see around you, whether urban or rural, fit so appropriately into the natural context. not that tuscany has been immune to the barbarism of illegal construction which has plagued Italy in recent decades, but it has suffered less than other parts because along with Reggio Emilia it has been one of the best administered regions in Italy since ww2.

Looking at the beautifully preserved medieval and Renaissance city centres it is difficult to remember that tuscany was once the scene of conflict between the emerging city states which lasted for centuries. Florentines and sienesi massacred each other reciprocally for over three hundred years. Do remember when visiting cities and towns in tuscany that car access is usually restricted to residents and tourists who can show they have a reservation in the restricted area. check with your hotel if you intend arriving by car. however, most of the historical centres are compact enough to be visited on foot.

In Florence the two main areas to see are around the Piazza Duomo, with the Baptistry (Battistero di san giovanni), the cathedral itself and the bell tower by giotto. then towards the river there is the Piazza della signoria and the Uffizi. But when you have taken in all you can, head south to the area across the river into the side streets around via de serragli with its bars and trattorias where you will pay less for your apperitivo. of all the tuscan cities sienna is without doubt the most compact and uniform as it dates mainly from the 14th century. again it has to be visited on foot but there are numerous car parks outside the city walls with bus shuttles into the centre. the Piazza del campo (known to the sienesi simply as ‘Il campo’) is at the centre of social life in siena and is the site of the famous horse race ‘il Palio’.

apart from the other obvious sights such as the cathedral the city is full of architectural jewels such as the Palazzo tolomei which dates from the beginning of the 1200s and which is just to the north of il campo. You must see Pisa’s campo dei Miracoli with the Leaning tower at least once in your life – it is unique. the tower was started in 1173 but work was interrupted because of the ground subsidence and only completed in the second half of the 14th century.

useful lInks http://www.bella-toscana. com/ maremma.htm (the Maremma national park) http://www.italiantourism. com/island3.html (the tuscan archipelago) http://www.florence.ala.it/ (Florence) http://www.pisaturismo.it/ site/home_en.asp (Pisa) http://www.comune.siena. it/ilturista/?lan=Eng (siena)

tuscany is not all domesticated Renaissance landscape. the coastal stretch known as the Maremma which extends through the provinces of Livorno, grosseto and into Lazio is a national park with wild and open spaces still relatively unknown to both Italian and foreign tourists. It is of particular interest to anyone who wants a horse riding holiday. when people think of tuscany they don’t often realise that it includes the Island of Elba and the other smaller islands which make up the rest of the tuscan archipelago national Park. Elba lies about 10 kms off the coast and it has a more temperate climate than the mainland. with its high rocky coastline and sandy coves even in the high season it is possible to get away from the throng.

relais santa croce l

Florence

Feels like nowhere else

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locanda LOCANDA al AL COLLE colle

abandon the frantic pace of working life to make more time for oneself: it was with this premise that the adventure of the owners of the locanda al colle began. Both from Viareggio, and working abroad in the fashion industry having lived in Paris, london, the usa, Buenos aires, india and the united arab emirates. over dinner with friends, they decided to restructure the old tuscan house to transform it into a hospitable bed and breakfast. a courageous and radical life change. on the 13th august the locanda opened its doors to its first guests. Facing the sea and backed by the apuane mountains, it is in an enviable position with a panoramic view that wanders between vineyards and the sea, running from Versilia to Portovenere and the gulf of the Poets. on the hills of camaiore on a cross road between the historic via Francigena and the sea, the locanda is a charming refuge, a peaceful and private place. a typical rustic stone building in which the old and the new combine in perfect harmony, the interiors and exteriors communicate across a care for detail: from the plants that cover the façade colouring it according to the season, to the refined choice of objects that decorate each room. the locanda is just a few kilometres from Pietrasanta, camaiore, Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi but our guests prefer staying here in the hills where one can breathe in the sea breeze whilst enjoying the tranquillity and silence of the countryside. we organize excursions either by foot or on mountain bikes and trips to surrounding places, visits to the marble quarries, or artists studios at Pietrasanta; we can help book exhibitions, concerts or cultural events: from the festival “ la Versiliana” in the pine woods of Pietrasanta to “anima Mundi” the international sacred music festival in Pisa’s cathedral or the Puccini festival in the open air theatre on the Massaciuccoli lake at torre del lago. Furthermore we have an agreement with some of the private beaches in Versilia that allows our guests a discounted price. locanda al colle Via della stretta 103 loc. capezzano Pianore 55041 camaiore lucca italy

tel: +39 0584 915 195 fax: +39 0584 915 900 www.locandaalcolle.it

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Borgo BORGO santo SANTO PIETRO Pietro

Borgo santo Pietro is an award winning, luxury boutique hotel set amidst stunning and verdant landscaped gardens. lovingly restored, this enchanting 13th century tuscan retreat is the ideal setting for a relaxing break, a romantic weekend or a special occasion. opulent bedrooms, luxurious spa treatments, fresh – off-the-vine food and discreet, yet attentive service seamlessly blend with the breath-taking views of Valle serena, a tranquil valley, whose stunning scenery is complimented by Borgo santo Pietro’s orchards, ornamental and organic gardens and a fresh water infinity pool. the Borgo was once a retreat for pilgrims to rest and recuperate on their long journeys. it is only 35 minutes from the beauties of siena and just over an hour from Florence. take a walk through the forest and you will find the historic san galgano chapel, one of many excursions to enjoy nearby. seasonally there are open-air concerts, the famous Palio horse race, mushroom picking, wine tours, truﬄe hunting, Boar Hunts and wonderful horse riding trails. a short walk away are the pretty villages of Palazetto and chiusdino and at the bottom of the valley the river – ideal for picnics, provided by the villa’s kitchens. Borgo santo Pietro loc. Palazzetto 53012 chiusdino (si)

tel: 0039 0577 75 1222 info@borgosantopietro.com www.borgosantopietro.com

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Full steaM aHead at terMe di saturnia

located in Maremma, one of the most striking corners of tuscany, the award-winning terme di saturnia spa & golf resort is centred around an ancient travertine stone building, on the site of a rich thermal spring which dates back beyond the etruscan era. according to roman mythology the spring was created when an angry saturn threw a bolt of lightning to earth, causing calming, mineral-rich waters to gush from the spring at a rate of 800 litres per second, at a constant temperature of 37°c. the legendary health-giving waters have been enjoyed by bathers ever since. the spring now feeds a thermal park comprising four pools, a Jacuzzi, and a series of waterfalls and waterways; and the healing powers of the water are harnessed in innovative therapies at terme di saturnia’s state-of-the-art spa, which features 53 treatments rooms and the brand new luxury area Blackrose spa. an overarching philosophy of seeking harmony with the environment is reflected in the design of terme di saturnia’s 140 guest rooms, and in its ‘green’ championship golf course, created to integrate seamlessly with its glorious natural surroundings. the aqualuce restaurant meanwhile offers fine Mediterranean dining, and the more informal all’acquacotta serves tuscaninspired cuisine in an al-fresco setting. terme di saturnia spa & golf resort loc.Follonata 58014 saturnia (gr) italy

tel: 0039 (0) 564-600111 Fax 0039 (0) 564-601266 prenotazioni@termedisaturnia.it www.termedisaturnia.it

BAGLIONI TOUR BY

6-night tour or more... to be spent within a two-week period, experiencing the luxury hospitality and Italian lifestyle of Baglioni Hotels

DISCOVER ITALY WITH BAGLIONI TOUR

ROME, MILAN, VENICE, BOLOGNA, VERONA, FLORENCE AND PUNTA ALA ( LONDON UK AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST )

SPECIAL ADDED VALUES All Baglioni Tour Guests will receive: American Buffet Breakfast Special gift upon departure Food and Beverage or Spa Credit * for Euro 30,00 per hotel Personal welcome greeting from the Hotel Top Management Home made cake

RATES IN DELUXE DOUBLE ROOM FROM euro 2100 per room for 6 nights For reservations and information please email to baglionitour@baglionihotels.com or call at +39 02 77333351

• • • • •

TERMS AND RESTRICTIONS The tour requires a minimum of 3 hotels A minimum of 6 nights is required The nights are to be spent within 2 weeks Rates are subject to availability Baglioni Tour offer is not cumulative with any other promotion *depending on the property

Baglioni Hotels Collection Via della Moscova, 18 20121 Milan, Italy Tel. +39 02 773331 Fax +39 02 77333385

Extraordinary events in Italy’s finest locations “When it comes to event planning there is no one with more knowledge, dedication and fantasy than Brenda Babcock and Italia Celebrations” Vera Wang www.italia-celebrations.com | italiacelebrations@yahoo.com

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Feels liKe nowHere else a stay at any Baglioni Hotel comes with the promise of italian hospitality taylormade to suit your every need and more

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Milan, Verona, Venice, Bologna, Florence, Punta ala, tuscany, roMe, london, MiraMBeau cHaMPillon-ePernay, Bort lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;etang-auVergne, aix-en-ProVence, saint Paul de-Vence www.BaglioniHotels.coM

LATINA (LAZIO)

The presence of Rome right is mainly rocky with few at the centre of the Lazio beaches, which are naturally region often means that packed, but boat hire visitors do not have the time tocompanies abound and venture outside the city before there are numerous inlets to moving on. This is a shameâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; enjoy virtually on your own. It because magnificent as the is a great place for diving capital is - there is much to holidays but leave the spear see elsewhere. gun at home as the waters around the islands are a nature The Pontine islands (largest reserve. If you can, avoid late island Ponza, population July and the first half of august around 3,000, and when prices Ventotene) are a superb are at their highest and holiday destination for space is at a premium. anyone who knows how Actually, that is a good rule for to handle a boat. the coast Italy in general, school holidays permitting.

Federico Fellini’s http://en. wikipedia.org/wiki/ satyricon” \o “Satyricon” Satyricon was filmed on Ponza in 1969.

Just over 30 kms from USEFUL LINKS Rome, following the Tiburtina www.italiantourism.com/ road, is the picturesque island4.html town of tivoli with its splendid villas including the (The Pontine Islands) Villa D’Este dating from the http://whc.unesco.org/en/ Founded in the 6th century 16th century when cardinal list/1158 (Etruscan sites) by Benedictine himself, the Ippolito D’Este, son of the http://www.offi cine.it/ abbey at Monte Cassino infamous Lucrezia Borgia is one of the most famous took up residence there and montecassino/ (Monte Cassino monasteries in the world. started enlargements. The Abbey homepage) It was destroyed by Allied villa and its unique water http://www.villadestetivoli. bombardment in February gardens are a world 1944 but has been info/storiae.htm Heritage site. So are the completely restored on (Villa D’Este, Tivoli) Etruscan sites at Cerveteri its original lines. The and Tarquinia, which date restoration is masterful and back as far as the 9th century it makes for a moving visit, BC. Have a read of DH combining 15 centuries of Lawrence’s ‘Etruscan history with a sense of the Places’ before you go. He waste of war as you pass found this mysterious prethe Commonwealth, German Roman world life affirming and Polish war cemeteries on and unconventional, but the slopes of the mountain. then he was comparing it Mussolini’s Italy of the 1920s.

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liMousine LIMOUSINE serVice IN in SERVICE ROME roMe My Personal tour of rome when planning my sightseeing trip to rome, i came up with the brilliant idea of spoiling myself with a personal chauffeur. contacts from my little black book assured me that limousine service in rome was the best and the most cost effective. so i duly made the call to the boss Manilo tranquilli, who spoke the most wonderful english. He immediately put me at my ease and explained the various day tours which he offered. “i chose, the want to see as much as possible please” and arranged for him to pick me up at my hotel on the allotted day. Handsome and smiling he escorted me to the car and i began my 7 hour personal adventure. i stared and gawped as Manilo expertly filled me in on the history and folk lore of the Forum – colosseum the spanish steps the Vatican and when we came to the trevi Fountain i was ready to abandon all for la dolce Vita. Manilo allowed me to get out and photograph everything in sight, patiently parking the limo as close as possible while weaving expertly through the rome traffic. what a Morning!!! He then suggested lunch in a little trattoria high above rome next to the Pope’s summer Palace. we arrived at the ristorante Bucci, where a beautiful table was set overlooking the most breath taking view of the lake. i invited Manilo to lunch with me and quickly realised this was a good move, as i simply copied his orders. refreshed relaxed and hungry to see more, we headed for castel gandolfo, simply stunning. one last coffee and a cheeky grapa later, i returned to my hotel and said arrivederci to Manilo, rome and la dolce Vita. of course i had been to rome before, but had never experienced roma through the eyes of Manilo tranquilli. Manilo tranquilli tel: +39 3392892669

info@limousineserviceinrome.com www.limousineserviceinrome.com

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CAMPANIA

Italy has more sites in the World Heritage list than any other country (40), and nine* of these are in the Campania region, which is why it is one of the most interesting regions to visit in Italy. It is said locally that after God created the Bay of Naples he realised that he had created another earthly paradise, so to compensate he created the Neapolitans. And it is this dichotomy which is behind the centuries-old fascination of the place, its vitality and its complexity. 30

The statue of the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino (1753) in the tiny Sansevero chapel in the heart of the historic centre is worth the cost of the airfare alone. I found it literally breathtaking the first time I saw it thirty years ago, a reaction which up until then only the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel had provoked. While youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re there, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss a trip down to the crypt, but keep small children upstairs.

the area near the chapel contains many of naples’ most famous monuments including the santa chiara church with its majolica cloisters and the church of gesù nuovo which contains the tomb of saint ciro and an impressive collection of ex votos on display in small rooms off to the left of the tomb. But campania is not just about naples. one of the most under-rated cities is salerno which during the 9th-12th centuries was the most important norman city in mainland southern Italy. a walk along the via dei Mercanti takes you into the heart of the medieval town and despite later 17th and 18th century restoration work you can still see the old buildings many of which have used pieces of Roman stone work in their construction. some of shops have a Roman pillar in their walls. the cathedral has a magnificent portico and bell tower which clearly show the arabic architectural influence which pervaded the norman kingdom and which can been seen in churches all along the amalfi coast. the room where st thomas aquinas taught is immediately on your right as you walk in to the courtyard.

the first ever medical school in Europe was founded in salerno and the nearby garden of Minerva is reconstruction of the original c14th herb gardens used for medicinal purposes. useful lInks: http://www.gesuiti.it/ moscati/English/En_ chiesagn.html (the gesù nuovo church) http://www. museosansevero.it/index_ ing.html (the sansevero chapel) http://en.napoli.waf.it/ museo.html (artcards – a cut price way to see monuments) http://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/salerno (for the Minerva gardens and other sights in salerno) * the historic centre of naples; the Royal palace at caserta; the vanvitelli aqueduct (caserta); the san Leuccio silk works (caserta); the archaeological areas of Pompeii, herculaneum and torre annuziata; the amalfi coast; the cilento and vallo di Diano natural park.

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VILLA CIMBRONE How can anyone remain unmoved by the charm and the magic of this place. The small village of Ravello perched high above the Amalfi coast has inherited a noble and rich tradition, nowhere better exemplified than in the historical Villa Cimbrone with its astounding public gardens and breathtaking views. The Villa has been home to many famous names from the world of art, science and politics. it was a meeting place of the english on the Amalfi coast and for the famous London Bloomsbury set. To mention just a few illustrious guests: E.M. Forster, Lytton Strachey, Keynes, Henry Moore, Elliot, Crick, Piaget, Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, the Duke and Duchess of Kent and Winston Churchill. It was the setting for the famous elopement of actress Greta Garbo and Leopold Stokowsky and has also played host to many important scientific and medical meetings at an international level.

vive l’incanto del tempo

Lord Grimthorpe, fell desperately in love with the Villa while on the Grand Tour, and in 1904, purchased it from the Amici’s of Atrani who had inherited the Villa in the second half of the nineteenth century. Inspired by the deep affection he felt for the Villa, he decided to make it come alive again by transforming it into a splendid jewel and the most gorgeous place in the world. He was assisted in the fulfillment of this dream by an inhabitant in Ravello, Nicola Mansi, whom he entrusted the completion of the renovation work. Nicola was a creative personality who was able to manifest the vision of his client. The resulting garden was praised in the nineteenth century by Gregorovius in his notes as ‘incomparable… where the most beautiful flowers you can imagine flourished, coming from numerous plants of the South.’ Today the present owner Giorgio Vuilleumier welcomes you to taste and participate in its history and the extraordinary beauty of the place. Whether it’s a wedding, an event, or simply lunch in the splendid gardens. Whatever the choice you can celebrate one of the happiest days of your life. Hotel Villa Cimbrone Via S. Chiara, 26 84010 Ravello

Tel: +39 089 85 74 59 Fax: +39 089 85 77 77 info@villacimbrone.com www.villacimbrone.com

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PHotograPHs/ weddings/ italy

cerZosiMo

Beauty and glamour – these are what emerge from an album of photographs produced with discretion, professionalism and intelligence by the team from the photographic firm, studio cerzosimo. a stunning and personal collection which preserves a unique time and place in your life. traces of love, would be a good title for an album which tells a family story, and is not only an investment but a unique work of art. the personalised album is bound in leather, to be cherished and handed down to each generation.

the fascination and the atmosphere of the divine amalfi coast, names such as ravello, amalfi, Positano, are places that evoke history and romance. For two centuries they were very much part of the grand tour, where our ancestors – writers, painters, philosophers – enjoyed to the full the magic and splendor of the Mediterranean colours and the azzure-blue sky. the places and atmosphere of the mountains and coast of cilento; the historical presence going back to the ancient greeks – the walls Velia, the haunting temples of Paestum – these are the places that can form the exclusive and natural backdrop to the memories of your special day. armando, Pietro and nicola, with thirty years of professional experince, will guide you on a photographic tour of colour and black & white photographs, together with a video, that will capture the atmosphere, romance and sheer joy, of your special day. exclusive shots, such an embrace on the famous terrace of ravello’s Villa cimbrione – supended between the sea and the sky – are captured in black and white to create an unforgettable moment. Precious jewels which capture all the emotions of your perfect wedding day. armando cerzosimo Mob: +39 339 1308817 tel: +39 089 2580 157

info@cerzosimofotografia.it www.cerzosimoforografia.it

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MARULIVO HOTEL

Marulivo Hotel is a journey to a timeless place. located in the cilento national Park, an ancient land and one of unesco’s world Heritage sites, it is a place where different people and civilizations, as well as nature, archaeology, history and ancient traditions, blend together. Just a few minutes away from the wonderful sandy beaches of Palinuro, in the heart of the medieval town of Pisciotta, this small boutique hotel stands in between olive groves and the sea. the ancient xii century’s monastery of st. catherine from alexandria was unkempt, abandoned and had partly collapsed. the convent changed its purpose many times during the course of its history: from religious hermitage to private residence and, most recently, into an abandoned state which lasted almost 100 years. rebuilt during a 5-year long restoration using ancient construction techniques, the monastery has been brought back to life. it has now returned to its stunning beauty. Here the stones, the terracotta, the antique woodwork and the sea blend into pure architectural poetry. every room, stairway and hidden picturesque corner allows guests to enjoy the breathtaking view and a quiet and welcoming environment. Marulivo Hotel consists of 11 rooms all with, small French balconies or large glass windows, which overlook the sea. all rooms are equipped with all comforts and each is unique, with an individual style and antique furniture. the ancient cloister is located next to an extraordinary terrace with a stunning view overlooking the sea. Breakfast is served every morning on the terrace, which at night hosts a trendy lounge bar where beautiful sunsets offer the perfect romantic scenery for a cocktail. Marulivo Hotel is also affiliated with the wonderful apartments of casa Pixos and Petra cottage. casa Pixos’ dwellings are also located in the heart of Pisciotta. they are xVii century’s houses, which have been restored and transformed into four charming apartments with gardens and private terraces overlooking the sea. Petra cottage, instead, is a renovated antique villa located right outside the town, in the middle of an olive grove. Marulivo Hotel Via castello 84066 Pisciotta (sa)

tel: +39 0974 973792 Fax: +39 0974 973647 info@marulivohotel.it

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LA LOCANDA DEL FIUME ‘A MACHINA

Farmhouse ‘A Machina is an old mill dating from the 17th century and is located in the heart of the Cilento National Park, about 2km from the sea and opposite the medieval village of Pisciotta. the ‘La Locanda Del Fiume’ was restored, following traditional and local methods. Organic materials, wooden olive floors, natural pigments on the walls, handmade and antique furniture, all blend together to create a comfortable and unique living space. ‘Locanda Del Fiume’ is located in one of the most romantic places on the Cilento coast, and is perfectly integrated into this natural and beautiful landscape. Sea, sun and wildlife are visible everywhere and act as a natural backdrop. All our rooms are spacious, cool in summer and warm in winter, with splendid views of the medieval village, and the sparkling blue sea. Breakfast consists of traditional homemade cakes and jams, made with organic fruits from our farm. Our outdoor pool, overlooks this beautiful landscape and the large terraces and gardens are an oasis of relaxation and tranquillity. We welcome you to experience this magical place, for a peaceful vacation throughout the year.

La Locanda Del Fiume

Tel: +39 (0)974 973876

c.da Fiori - 84066

info@amachina.it

A Machina’

Pisciotta (Salerno) Italy

Fax: +39 335 5326132 www.amachina.it

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GRAND HOTEL TERME ROSAPEPE

From music to management at 30. Determination and courage describe the lifestyle change made by Lucia Lena Rosapepe, co-administrator of the 103 year old four star Grand Hotel Terme Rosapepe and Thermal Health Spa/swimming pool complex, situated on the Sele River bank, surrounded by the Apennine mountains, 20 minutes from the Amalfi Drive, an hour motorboat ride from Capri and one hour from the Naples airport. Lucia left her college position and concert career in New England to work in the family business and live in the small medieval hill community of Contursi Terme. The devastation of the 1980 earthquake only strengthened her desire to rebuild the Health spa and to extend public knowledge of the excellent and unique medicinal capacities of the thermal waters and mineral salts of the nationally accredited S. Antonio Font, a natural 3 metre tall sulphur-water geyser, used for curing psoriasis, acne, skin imperfections, arthritis, rheumatism, circulatory problems, bronchitis, sinusitis, and gynecological problems. During these years the Rosapepe Thermal Health Spa has truly helped thousands, while the Grand Hotel has distinguished itself not only for its refined elegance, excellent cuisine and old world charm, but also for hosting the annual MYRICAE International Opera Competition and Master Class each October.

Terme Rosapepe 84024 Contursi Terme Salerno Via Naz.le

Tel: 0039 (0)828 995019 Fax: 0039 (0)828 995663 info@termerosapepe.it www.termerosapepe.it

THE PROVINCE OF SALERNO

Q3: what are the ‘must do and see’ sights which would be of interest to British tourists in the province of salerno? a3: to list all the sites of interest would take too long. some examples of incredible artistic and natural heritage Q1: Mr President, you were elected we have are Paestum, velia, the recently, what is your programme for amalfi coast, the cliento and vallo the Province of salerno in the next di Diano national Park, salerno and four years? the Longobard arechi castle, the a1: My administration is particularly Benedictine abbey at cava de’ committed to public works and tirreni and the nuceria-alfaterna site. infrastructure projects. salerno is a province rich in history and culture and Q4: where is the province of salerno do you get away from it all after a hard full of natural and artistic beauty, but it and exhausting week? is necessary to develop the transport network in order to develop tourism in a4: at the weekend there is quite a choice for the people of salerno. Many have the area. we are also focussing on the habit of returning to the areas their administrative transparency and we families come from, like the cilento, have introduced an It Best Practice the vallo di Diano, the sele valley, the scheme which, as planned has Picentini or the amalfi coast. these reduced current spending by 30%, are all places that restore mind and money which will be invested in body and where you can still enjoy the school maintenance. wholesome customs of the past. Q2: salerno airport has had a shaky start, Q5: a personal welcome for British do you think it has real potential to tourists? attract flights away from naples? a5: I hope that British tourists enjoy the a2: salerno airport could become vast choice which our province offers: strategic for the airport network history, culture, the natural environment, in campania if the runway was wines, gastronomy and a warm welcome lengthened and road links were – these are our credentials. the land improved. our airport is the focal point of Parmenides, Zenone, Matteo not only for the province of salerno silvatico and Flavio gioia (from amalfi but also for Basilicata and northern – inventor of the compass) awaits you. part of calabria. IntervIew wIth the hon. edmondo cIrIellI mp and presIdent of the provInce of salerno

www.provincia.salerno.it

translator’s notes: Matteo silvatico, 1285-1342, was a doctor at Europe’s first school of Medicine founded in salerno, who wrote to first ever treatise on the medicinal use of herbs. his site of his original herb garden is now called the garden of Minerva and is open to the public. Flavio gioia a 13/14th century navigator who is thought to have invented the compass, but this is disputed. there is a statue in his honour in amalfi.)

the province of salerno extends for 4,922 square kilometres and is rich in natural beauty and landscape, history and culture. Because of their uniqueness a number of areas are included in the UnEsco list of world heritage sites. these are the amalfi coast, Paestum and the cilento and vallo di Diano national Park. Between them they occupy 2,000 sq km and include 93 out of the 158 towns and villages in the province, and 200 km of the coastline. Many of the beaches win the Blue Flag for the unpolluted water.

when you add to this historical patrimony of excellence today’s modern technical know-how and social relations, the province of salerno can aim to become an international centre for a diverse range of all the yearround tourism, offering a warm welcome and a high cultural level. the new administration has embraced this idea of development, and is planning improvements to the transport infrastructure, both for people and goods, in order to use better and ensure access to the wide variety of destinations throughout the province.

this is an area which has contributed to western culture, not only through the ancient schools of thought (greek, the medieval school of medicine, the amalfi Republic) but also because of the food, wine and diet of the region which still constitute today the basis of the ‘Mediterranean diet’ which is in the process of being recognised as an Intangible cultural heritage by UnEsco.

the first step, linked to the history and culture of the communities of salerno has been the upgrading and opening to the public of the arechi castle, symbol of the Longobard Principality, with its museum and multimedia gallery. the castle is now also the one of the official seats of the new provincial government.

the province of salerno is part of the UnEsco association of provinces which has its seat in the 16th century charterhouse of san Lorenzo near sala consilina where there is an operational Landscape European observatory.

the heritage of classical mythology, together with that of the religious, military and private historical buildings offer material from ancient legends brought together in a ‘Park of the Myths’ between Paestum, agropoli, velia and Palinuro; journies through the history of Italy and of the south in a network of castles, churches, monasteries and factories present throughout the territory of the province.

This policy of promoting .and enjoying our historical artefacts is brought together in the programme of ‘Major Events’ which are to be held in areas of archaeological, architectonic or natural beauty. The calendar covers a wide variety of interests: religion, theatre, music, sport, enogastronomy, business, art & cinema which will maintain interest in tourism all the year round. In order to develop new entrepreneurs capable of catering for the flux of quality tourism and to ensure the quality of life and accessibility of the centres of population both along the coast and inland our strategic priorities are as follows: improvements to 2,500 kms of the road network; the extension of the runway at the ‘Salerno-Costa d’Amalfi’ Airport at Pontecagnano and the commercial development of the airport; the activation of a support network for cardiopathic patients which will become active for the next summer season; to create a consortium to coordinate the promotion and marketing done by the tour operators and the local authorities. For the province of Salerno tourism, together with agriculture, is fundamental for the growth of the territory and its communities. And one of the distinctive features of its rich and extraordinary history is the warmth and courtesy of the welcome you will find.

CALENDAR OF THE MAJOR EVENTS 2010 17–20 March

Creating tourism, the Santa Sofia complex, Salerno

15 April – 02 May

Phases of the Baroque, |Vallo di Diano

26–30 May

Nights at the castle, Mercato San Severino

June

The historical regatta, Amalfi

29 June– 4 July

Sea Meeting, Furore

18–31 July

Giffoni Film Festival

23–25 July

Salerno International Show Jumping, Gran Prix Charterhouse of Padula, Padula

July/August

Concerts at Villa Guariglia, Raito

July/August

Jazz on the Coast, Minori

July/August

The Ravello Festival

July/August

The Charlot Prize, Paestum

09–30 August

Theatre at Velia

28-29 August

Enogastronomic Literary Prize, Minori

August

At the table of the Princess Costanza, Teggiano

August/Sept

Scala meets New York

03–05 Sept

Enjoy Minori

September

The autumn equinox, San Giovanni a Piro

September

The Divine Coast, Amalfi Coast

October

Ecological Fair, Vallo della Lucania

18–21 Nov

Mediterranean Fair of Archaeological Tourism, Paestum Millenium 1011-2011, the Benedictine Abbey of the Sacred Trinity, Cva de’ Tirreni Baroque Rhythms, Vallo di Diano and Agro Nocerino

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LE FAVATE The country house “Le Favate” in the Cilento National Park Near the sea, in a wonderful landscape, in an area which is steeped in history, lies the Favate estate. The house, the chapel, and the water mill which were built in 1600 are still, miraculously intact, and stand surrounded by centuries old olive groves in an estate of 100 hectares. Here you will find a place and a way of life you thought had long ago disappeared. Our house has a warm and welcoming atmosphere. It has been sympathetically restored using traditional materials, there are massive wooden beams and handmade teracotta floors, together with a spacious restaurant, games room and the lounge with it’s huge fireplace is a pleasant place to relax in. The area is able to offer sport, art, culture and sea, and for those who enjoy the countryside, there are wonderful walking opportunities, including horse riding through the surrounding olive groves, with a fitness centre, sauna and pool. All the important archaeological sites of Magna Graecia, Paestum and Velia are easily accessible by public transport. Nearby and within easy driving distance are the must see places. The Charterhouse of Padula, Capri, Palinuro with an abundance of old and picturesque villages. The Mediterranean diet has always consisted of traditional Cilentan cookery as it’s origin. Our main ingredients for the farmhouse kitchen come from our own produce and are prepared using traditional methods and recipes. Le Favate C.da Favate-Ascea Salerno Italy

Tel: +39 (0) 974 977310 Fax: +39 (0) 974 977949 Email: licusati@favate.it www.favate.it

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PalaZZo BelMonte

an oasis in a Modern world in the heart of the Magna graecia, south of the amalfi coast, bordering the national park of cilento which is a world heritage site, sits this 17th century Princely Palazzo. a former hunting lodge on the sea, surrounded by five acres of private gardens. the Palazzo enjoys a wonderful position overlooking the gardens, with its own private golden beach, pool and sea. dining at the romantic Belvedere terrace by candlelight, as the waves lap on the shore below, catching glimpses of the twinkling lights of capri, is truly an exclusive experience, and evokes an atmosphere of other times. life at Palazzo Belmonte induces â&#x20AC;&#x153;dolce far nienteâ&#x20AC;?. Jasmine and honeysuckle runs riot, with the scent pervading the warm evenings; discover the beautiful coastline by local boat or explore Pompeii, Paestum and the amalfi coast. Here is your ideal escape for a dream holiday, honeymoon - exclusive wedding destination. Palazzo Belmonte Via Flavio gioia, 25 84072 santa Maria di castellabate salerno italy

tel: +39 0974 960 211 Fax: +39 0974 961 150 info@palazzobelmonte.com www.palazzobelmonte.com

VENETO It is commonly said in Italy that the Veneto region ‘has everything’, meaning that it contains within its boundaries its own complete geographical universe. As if that were not enough, the region is rich in its splendid cities with their artistic and monumental heritage. One Italian writer has been moved to describe the local character as ‘complaisant’ so sure are they of their own worth. Bordered by the Dolomites to the north and Lake Garda to the west, the roads and rivers converge into Europe’s most famous fluvial plain and lagoon at the top of the Adriatic, from where Venice with over 100 islands lies 4 km from the mainland and 2 km from the sea itself; the military, political and artistic centre of the region for a thousand years. Although you can reach Venice by car and park in Piazzale Roma, it is always over-crowded and especially in season you can be faced with long waits before getting into the car parks. Far better to arrive by bus or train from Mestre or Marghera or leave the car at The Tronchetto car park and use either the public ferries or private water taxis.

Once you are in the city itself there are only two ways to move about – on foot or by water. If you are only there for a short time, then a boat trip along the Grand Canal is the only way to take in what has been described as the most beautiful high street in the world.

Luna Hotel Baglioni L

Venice

Feels like nowhere else

there is always the temptation to sit at a table at one of the many outside cafes and bars but don’t forget that whereas consumption standing at the bar itself is price controlled by law, when you sit down the mark up is decided by the proprietor. If you just want a quick coffee, follow the example of the locals and stand at the bar; if you want to sit down in a world-renowned piazza and watch the world go by, then that is what you are paying for.

Piazza delle Erbe, and the Roman theatre on the other side of the river.

the traveller can see at once why the city of verona was built where it is. Dominating a large bend in the river adige, and fortified on both banks, it has been since Roman times the pivotal point for military and commercial traffic. the centre of the city remains in effect the old Roman forum. Reduced in size in the Middle ages but still retaining it basic rectangular shape, the Piazza delle Erbe is surrounded by c14th and c15th houses and towers and is the site of a buzzing open air market. the rest of the city centre can easily be covered on foot and apart from the arena, famous for its summer opera season and other concerts, don’t miss the scaligere arches on the other side of the Piazza dei signori from the

useful lInks

one final word about the Romeo and Juliet connection. the most authoritative Italian tourist guide published by the Italian touring club refers to, and I quote: ‘the socalled tomb of Juliet’ and ‘the supposed house of Juliet’. apparently the famous balcony was added during restoration of the c12th house in 1935.

http://www. veniceconnected.com/ http://www.turismovenezia. it/eng/dynalay. asp?pagina=1399 (two official websites from venice city and the tourist board) http://www.cittadiverona.it/ en/ (events in verona with the programme for the 2010 opera season) http://www.comune. verona.it/turismo/ Passeggiando/inglese/ itinerarya/erbe.htm (guide to walks in verona)

ABRUZZO

The main city of the Abruzzo region, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aquila, was no stranger to earthquakes having been partially destroyed twice before in 1300 and in 1703. But the tremor which hit the area in the early hours of 6 April 2009 was so violent that it devastated one of the most beautiful and wellpreserved medieval towns in Italy. A year on, some of the major monuments can now be visited thanks to the commitment of the local people to the restoration of their city. You can now visit the church of Santa Maria di Collemaggio and the Fountain of the 99 Spouts but the C16th castle and the Basilica of Saint Bernardino can only be seen from the outside. The Abruzzo region is famous in Italy for having created the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first ever natural park and it remains one of the largest protected areas in Europe. The contrast between the Appenine mountains of the Gran Sasso and La Maiella and the coastal Adriatic plain make Abruzzo an excellent region for a touring holiday. The wildlife is phenomenal for an area which is only a short drive from Rome: there are the Marsican brown bears (which derive their name from Mount Marsicano), wolves have been reintroduced and there are red deer, roe deer and the Abruzzo chamois.

The villages of Rivisondoli, Roccaraso and Pescocostanzo (famous for lacework and filigree gold jewellery) are all above 1,300m are popular with Romans and Neapolitans both for winter sports and summer holidays. If you are interested in a skiing holiday, do avoid Carnival week when the resorts are full of schoolchildren.

USEFUL LINKS

The town of Chieti on it rocky outcrop has amazing views towards the mountains of the Gran Sasso and La Maiella and also down to the Adriatic. The town centre is mainly medieval with some Roman remains and has an archaeological museum with is well worth visiting if only to see the exceptional statue of the “Warrior of Capestrano” (C6th BC) which was found in a field by a farmer in the nearby village of Capestrano.

http://www.initalytoday. com/abruzzo/chieti/ (Chieti)

http://www.regione.abruzzo. it/turismo/en/parchi/ nazionale/fauna.htm (Abruzzo national park – this is the official site which gives basic information) http://www.naturalparks. it/abruzzo/GranSassoMontiLaga-NationalPark.htm (national park)

http://www.g8italia2009. it/G8/Home/ LaSedeDelVertice/ G8-G8_Layout_ locale-1199882116809_ Guerriero_Capestrano.htm (G8 website with information about the warrior of Capestrano in Chieti Museum)

As I said earlier, Abruzzo is an excellent region for a touring holiday rather than stopping in one place. If you are tired of the mountains, it has over 100 kms of coastline much of which is sandy or pebble beaches with excellent bathing. In the heat of the summer you can have a day on the beach and then retreat to the cool of the hills in the evening. The best of both worlds.

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HOUSES IN ITALY

abruzzo â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the yet undiscovered jewel in italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crown. the largest green area in europe where wolves and bears still roam the high plateaus of the gran sasso mountain range. combining stunning views with easy access to both ski slopes and the 130km of sandy beaches, makes abruzzo the up and coming place for the property investor. in the five years we have been working in abruzzo we have seen a steady increase in the discerning client looking to increase his property portfolio and make a steady, sound investment. Half an hour inland from the coastal city of Pescara, towards the foothills of the national Park, are several plots of land with outline planning permission, all with unbelievable views, starting from as little as e40,000 per hectare. Houses in italy srl works closely with you, the client, to change the outline planning to fully approved plans, of your choice, before completion on the sale. this guarantees peace of mind in the knowledge that you have bought, not only a beautiful plot of land but also fully approved plans for the house you want. a risk free process which is proving very appealing to everyone. Post completion, Houses in italy offers further assistance if needed. introduction to reliable building teams and efficient project managers, essential for any project. we can also provide a liaison project which includes regular progress updates, photographs, moving the build forward, phone calls and translations where necessary, ensuring our clients peace of mind, thereby removing the stress and bringing the project to a successful conclusion. we offer 2 complimentary nights bed and breakfast at casa Mimosa, our most recent renovation, for clients interested in viewing the plots we have on offer. casa Mimosa is a very fine example of the excellent workmanship of our abruzzese building team, combining new build and renovation seamlessly. Build the dream! Jane young tel: 01264 323300 Mob: 07717277874

jane@houses-in-italy.co.uk www.houses-in-italy.co.uk

APULIA (PUGLIA)

The region of Puglia has always been Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gateway to the Orient. In Brindisi, overlooking the splendid natural harbour, stand two Roman columns marking the end of the Via Appia, the departure point for Byzantium and the eastern Empire. The tiny Romanesque/ Gothic church of Santa Maria del Casale, about 3 km outside the city towards the airport was a focal point for crusaders waiting to leave for the Holy Land. Following the opening of the Suez Canal the city became the departure point for the mail packets to India. 50

Gateways work both ways of course, and the long, flat coastline of Puglia has meant relatively easy access for travellers moving westwards over the centuries. As a result the region has always been of strategic importance and is unusually well-blessed with castles and fortifications. One tour that I keep promising myself I will make is around the castles built in the 13th century by that extraordinary monarch Frederick II (1194-1250).

USEFUL LINKS

http://www. ostunithewhitecity.com/ apulia/castles.aspx (gives details of castles in Puglia) http://en.wikipedia.org/ wiki/Frederick_II,_holy Roman_Emperor (the dreaded Wiki on FredII), who is also on Facebook (!) http://italianfood.about. com/od/apuliancooking/ Apulian_Cooking_and Recipes.htm (some basic recipes from the region including the beans and chicory)

Although the capital of his kingdom was Palermo, he loved Puglia to the extent that one of his nicknames was puer Apuliae (Puglia boy!) His reign was renowned for religious and cultural tolerance and the kingdom was a true meeting place for Latin, Greek, Arab and Jewish culture. The early 13th century was probably not great time to be born, but if you were, then S Italy was as good a place as any to live. There are Norman/Swabian castles in almost all Puglia’s towns and cities but if you only have time for one it must be the castel del Monte near the town of Andria.

Built by Frederick between 1229-49) it is one of the most extraordinary Gothic monuments in Italy. Its perfect octagonal form combines elements of Norman, classical and saracen architecture. If you are there in September, watch out for the season of classical concerts which are held in the courtyard. Puglia is famous through Italy for its food, and in particular the seafood, the oil and the vegetables. They have recipes for varieties of broccoli, chicory and beet tops which you won’t find anywhere else. Try the Macco di Fave, a purée of dried broad beans with chicory which is usually served as an antipasto.

SICILY (SICILIA)

The largest island in the Mediterranean and Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest region geographically, the strategic position of the island means that it has been under foreign domination for almost all of its history. Some Sicilians would say it still is. Of all the invaders the ones who have left the most interesting traces for the visitor are the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Arabs and the Normans. Founded by the Phoenicians and later colonised by both Greek and Romans, Palermo

only really took off during the period of Arab and Norman domination. A tribute to the creative energy of that period is the cathedral of Monreale, about 8 kms outside the city, described as the most beautiful cathedral in the world. The interweaving of cultures which took place under Frederick II has never ceased and remains apparent in the architecture, the customs and gastronomy of this most exciting city.

whitaker. his old house is now an excellent small museum. The C7th cathedral in Siracusa is built within the framework of the Doric peristyles of the C5thBC temple of Athena. Why waste good stone? It is one the island of Ortigia, the oldest settled part of what was once the largest city in Magna Grecia. On the mainland you will find the Greek theatre - the most impressive still in existence, the Roman amphitheatre and the curiously shaped grotto known as Dionysiusâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ear famous for its acoustic properties. Legend has it that the Tyrant kept his prisoners there so he could eavesdrop on them.

the valley of the temples at agrigento is something of a misnomer as the eight greek temples and other ruins are actually sited on a rocky ridge, but they are one of the most spectacular archaeological sites you will ever see. as for the modern town, the website below says that it is worth visiting because you can see the temples from it. Fair comment.

The townwine, of Marsala fortified thanks(an to the arab name meaning commerce started inthe the Port of Ali) is ofBritish Phoenician c18th by the families origin and was once an and of woodhouse, Ingham important naval whitaker.Roman In the museum at base. Theyou name nowthe Marsala canissee famous for its remainsworld of a wide c3rdBc Punic fortified wine,was thanks to the in ship which excavated commerce in the the 1970sstarted and early 1980s c18th by the British families by British archaeologist ofhonor woodhouse, Ingham and Frost. while in the whitaker. at area, do In visitthe themuseum tiny island Marsala see once the of Moziayou (orcan Motya) remains of alargest c3rdBc Punic one of the Phoenician ship which was settlements in excavated sicily whichin the 1970s and was bought upearly and 1980s byexcavated British archaeologist by Joseph honor Frost. in the whitaker. hiswhile old house area, doan visitexcellent the tiny island is now ofsmall Mozia (or Motya) once museum. one of the largest Phoenician settlements in sicily which the valley of the temples was bought upisand at agrigento something excavated by Joseph of a misnomer as the eight whitaker. his oldand house greek temples other isruins now are an excellent actually sited on small museum. a rocky ridge, but they are one of the most spectacular the valley of thesites temples archaeological you will atever agrigento something see. asisfor the modern oftown, a misnomer as thebelow eight the website

useful lInks http://www.users.globalnet. co.uk/~loxias/sicily/mozia. htm (island of Mozia and its museum) useful lInks http://www. saudiaramcoworld.com/ http://www.users.globalnet. issue/198606/the.punic. co.uk/~loxias/sicily/mozia. warship.htm htm (the Punic ship at Marsala) (island of Mozia and http://www.sicilytourist. itscom/incominginsicily/ museum) http://www. palermo/monreale.htm saudiaramcoworld.com/ (Monreale cathedral) issue/198606/the.punic. http://www.thinksicily.com/ warship.htm guide-to-sicily/ (the Punic ship at Marsala) archaeological-sites-inhttp://www.sicilytourist. sicily/the-valley-of-thecom/incominginsicily/ temples---agrigento.aspx palermo/monreale.htm (valley of the temples) (Monreale cathedral) http://www.bestofsicily. http://www.thinksicily.com/ com/palermo.htm guide-to-sicily/ (Palermo) archaeological-sites-insicily/the-valley-of-thetemples---agrigento.aspx (valley of the temples) http://www.bestofsicily. 53 com/palermo.htm

guid arch sicil tem (val http com (Pal

PLAY AWAY IN ITALY

People just don’t imagine that Italy is a country where you can go to play golf. The preferred destinations, apart from the legendary Scotland, from Ireland and Great Britain in general, are Portugal, France and above all Spain. But other European countries offer an ever-growing and notable choice of golfing facilities. There are courses in Italy which are over one hundred years old – the Aquasanta Golf Club in Rome founded in 1903 and Menaggio and Cadenabbia (1906) – plus others such as Venice (1928), Milan (1929) and Rapallo (1931) which were opened before WW2. But in the last twenty years or so around three hundred courses have appeared throughout Italy, most of which are eighteen holes. The major number are to be found in the regions of Northern and Central Italy, but there are courses in the South such as the very beautiful Pineta di Riva dei Tessali near Taranto in Puglia. New courses have been laid out above all in Puglia and Sicily. There are courses in a variety of locations for all tastes. If you want to play near the sea you can choose from the Punta Ala in Tuscany, the Pevero in Sardinia, Castelvolturno near Naples and the Riva dei Tessali. Or if mountain scenery appeals, you can play in the Alto Adige or the Val d’Aosta. If you are coming to Italy on business, you can find courses very close to Rome, Milan or Venice Lido. It wouldn’t be Italy if couldn’t have a round amongst classical ruins like the Aquasanta club or in a new course at Persano to be opened this Spring not far from the Greek temples of Paestum in the province of Salerno.

Hotel Cala del Porto

Punta Ala

Feels like nowhere else

If you are planning a trip to Italy and you don’t want to miss out on your golf you find somewhere to play virtually all over Italy. For more detailed information have a look at the Italian Golf Federation website www.federgolf.it and enjoy your game.

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golF AND and WINE wine GOLF in ITALY italy IN golf in italy is increasing enormously in popularity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; italy is the current holder of the golf world cup, boasts the number one amateur and annually increases revenues in the golf tourist industry by more than 10 percent. there are now over 350 golf courses that are as diverse and exhilarating as italy itself and golf is fast becoming a best-loved sport. golf and wine in italy is your introduction to the best in italian golf, with hosted tours, and much more, as it combines golf, wine, superb accommodation and food and italian culture. golf and wine in italy is an australian company owned by Michael trembath and his partner, elizabeth toumbos and draws on their extensive experience travelling and playing golf throughout italy. elizabeth is a chef and Michael is a wine importer/distributor representing a number of leading italian wine producers. these feature Pieropan, Bellavista, Marcarini, Jermann, Poggerino, Felsina and umani ronchi and, amongst others, are the nucleus of the producers visited during the tours. in some cases they are also the accommodation, in the form of italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s agriturismo program. whilst most of these wineries are rarely open to the general public, golf and wine in italy offers private tours and tastings, generally hosted by the winemaker. elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion is italian cuisine and this has led her to seek out restaurants with the best in italian food, focussing on the purest in regional expression and adding another dimension to the complete golf and wine in italy experience. our exciting program for 2010 offers four tours in July, on sale now. golf and wine in italy 34d rose street, armadale Victoria 3143 australia

+61 412 720 590 elizabeth@golfandwineinitaly.com www.golfandwineinitaly.com

Together with the val dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;aosta, Piemonte is the most French of all the Italian regions. Leaving the alps behind and travelling down the steep valley of the river Doria Baltea, with road and rail both running parallel to the fast-moving water, the traveller has the sensation of heading towards the light. the plain beckons and although the Mediterranean is still some way off the atmosphere is one of release from the dark confining rocks. From the fortifications you see overlooking, still controlling, your route you know you are travelling along one of the historical arteries of Europe.

PIEDMONT

1584 by Ascanio Vittozzi. The piazza is dominated by the impressive Palazzo Madama which is an architectural summary of the history on the city itself. The medieval castle incorporated the remains of a Roman gate and was itself enlarged in the fifteenth century becoming in 1848 the chamber of the Savoy Senate. Today it is the site of the Museo di Arte Antica and contains over 70,000 works, dating from mediaeval to Baroque times, 3,800 of which are on display.

With its eno-gastronomic richness it is no coincidence that Piemonte is the home to the movement which first Once in turin you can started in the small town of see the similarities with Bra in 1986, becoming the chambery and the towns Slow Food organisation in on the other side of the 1989. The region grows alps in the haut savoie with some of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prized which they once formed the wines from the majestic princedom which provided Barolo and Dolcetto to the the Italian monarchy lighter Grignolino and the following unification. With white and dessert wines of the fringe of the gran Asti. Not forgetting that it Paradiso mountains away to was here that vermouth the north west, the city with fortified wine flavoured with its slate roofs and covered herbs - was first made arcades has its heart in the commercially. Treat yourself Piazza castello designed in to truffles from alba, the

(PIEMONTE)

renowned bagna cauda (a garlic and anchovy dip eaten with crudites), the solemn bollito misto (a mixture of boiled meats) which boasts a confraternity dedicated to preserving the purity of the dish. And finish with Turinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous chocolate: the gianduiotto made with hazel nuts.

USEFUL LINKS

http://www.piemondo.it/ gastronomia/bollito.htm (the bollito misto) http://www.stradadelbarolo.it/ (wine tours in Piemonte) http://www. palazzomadamatorino.it/ home.php (the museum in Palazzo Madama) http://www.italybikehotels. it/enogastronomiapiemonte/il-piemonte-e-lastoria-del-gianduiotto.html (if you are a bicycle enthusiast, check the tours on this site)

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Villa VILLA tiBoldi TIBOLDI

staying at Villa tiboldi is like traveling back in time, while still maintaining comforts of a contemporary luxury accommodation. the villa is nestled on a hill in the roero region of Piedmont, which, along with Barolo and Barbaresco, is known as one of the most important wine producing regions in italy. one hour from turin and two hours from Milan,Villa tiboldi is a place to relax; taking in the marvelous views of the surrounding countryside, sip a glass of local wine and enjoy the seasonal cuisine from the Villa’s garden. this is a place where you come once and keep returning, year after year. Malvira’, the Villa’s partner winery, and Villa tiboldi provide a complete package for those looking for a sophisticated, countrystyle holiday involving good wine and local cuisine. the hotel’s restaurant has 50 seats and in the summertime, there is dining on the outdoor terrace. the Villa has 10 rooms in the main house and 3 in the annex, which is located in the middle of Malvira’s trinita vineyard. each room has it’s own unique and special design, complemented by a lap pool, overlooking the panorama. detail is attended to in every way, from the minute one arrives to Villa tiboldi, you know you’ve arrived to a special place. Villa tiboldi case sparse tiboldi, 127 12043 canale Piemonte

tel: +39 0173 970388 fax: +39 0173 959233 www.villatiboldi.it

ITALY: THE KNOWLEDGE FACT FILE The Italian Republic has a population broadly the same as the United Kingdom of around 59 million. The geography of the country, with the alps to the north and the Apennine mountain chain running down the centre, means that most of the population is concentrated either near the coast or in the plains of Lombardy and Emilia Romagna. The three largest cities are Rome (2.5 million) Milan (1.2 million) and naples (1 million) but what strikes the visitor is the density of population particularly in the older cities where there is little room for expansion because of geographical features. In naples for example there are over 8,500 inhabitants per square kilometre. Compare that to Hong Kong which has 6,400/km2 (official government statistics)!

The main language is Italian but in the Val Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Aosta the population is also French speaking and the region of Alto Adige is officially bilingual Italian/German. Interestingly there are small enclaves of Italian-Albanian speakers in Calabria who have maintained their language and culture from the seventeenth century. In the same area, and in parts of the Salento in Puglia, there are still traces of a dialect which derives from the ancient Greek.

San Marino is actually a double world record holder as it is the oldest recorded sovereign state (founded 301) and it has the oldest constitution still in effect (1600). HEALTH CARE As in Italy is also an EU country health care for British citizens is provided on a reciprocal basis. This means that urgent medical treatment is given free of charge but where there are charges which have to be paid by Italians, such as prescription charges, then these have to be paid. The old E111 form is now obsolete and has been replaced by the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) which can be obtained from the NHS. https://www.ehic.org.uk/Internet/home.do Private treatment and medical repatriation are not covered by this and so it is advisable to have private medical insurance.

Generally speaking the standard of the medical treatment in Italian hospitals is on a par with the UK but the basic nursing assistance on the wards is not, and you will often find that an Italian patient will have a family member at their bedside 24 hrs a day and food is brought in. when my daughter was born I had to take a knife, fork and spoon in to my wife as the hospital cutlery had disappeared.

Italy also contains within its territory two other sovereign States: the Vatican in the centre of Rome, which is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smallest State; and the Republic of San Marino which lies between the regions of Emilia Romagna and the Marche.

Photograph: ÂŠ Armando Cerzosimo

LOST OR STOLEN PASSPORTS The British Embassy in Rome and the Consulates in Milan, Naples, Florence and Venice issue emergency documents which will allow you to complete the journey home. For British citizens in Italy the full 10 year validity passports are issued in Paris. If you need these the turn-around time is about 6-8 days but contact your nearest Consulate for information. Further details of how to apply, and information on the whereabouts of the nearest British Consulate are all on the Embassy website http://ukinitaly.fco. gov.uk/en/ The site also gives information on levels of crime and the terrorist threat and details of any strikes which are likely to affect the traveller in Italy. ROAD TRAVEL Italian do have something of a reputation as car drivers and it will probably not be a surprise to any of you who have driven there to learn that the number of road fatalities per annum is almost double that of the UK. (7.9 deaths/ per 1,000 as opposed to 4.3). Driving around a city like Naples, for example, might give you the impression of pure anarchy but there is in fact quite a tightly codified pattern of behaviour in action. After several decades of driving in Italy, my advice is don’t be tempted to imitate them. It might appear that anything goes, but that is not the case. The driver who jumps the red light probably knows that it is safe to do so because the one-way system was changed last year but the lights haven’t been decommissioned. Or he/she might just be a risk-taker.

While on the subject of on one-way systems, even when crossing a one way street always look in both directions to avoid rogue mopeds. There are some traffic laws in Italy which the British motorist needs to be aware of: you should always drive on dipped headlights on motorways and major roads outside of cities; on some roads it is obligatory to have snow chains on board during certain months of the year. This includes motorways. when a severe snow fall hits, the police will often set up road blocks and not allow motorists without chains to proceed. It is obligatory to carry a reflective safety jacket in the car for use in case of breakdown on motorways and other arterial roads; It is illegal to use you mobile phone when driving unless you have a speaker attachment or a headset. MANNERS Italy is a more formal country than the UK and this is particularly important if you want to do business there. Like French, the Italian language has two registers; the third person formal ‘lei’ when you are speaking to a stranger, someone you do not know well or someone you might want to keep socially at a distance; and the informal ‘tu’. To give an example, I know people who have worked in the same office together for years who still use ‘lei’ because that is the accepted business register.

As you might expect, then, Italians start using Christian names less easily than we do, particularly when speaking with someone older or further up the hierarchy. ‘Call me Tony,’ would not happen in Italy where seniority and age are still treated respectfully. Professional titles are also used in conversation. The dress code is also more formal for both business and social events. the default business dress code is lounge suit (‘abito scuro’) or the equivalent for women. For a formal evening reception or dinner, particularly in a club or the military environment, the men would still be expected to wear a dark suit with a white shirt. If you are going to Italy on business, do have a look at the UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) website which has more useful information about doing business in Italy. https://www.uktradeinvest.gov.uk/ukti/ appmanager/ukti/countries?_nfls=false&_ nfpb=true&_pageLabel=countrytype1&na vigationPageId=/italy MISCELLANEA Credit cards are not used as extensively for small purchases (under 40 euro) as they are in the UK. Because tax evasion is a national sport, and cards leave an audit trail, do check that the restaurant is going to take your card before you start eating.

or Smokers: you will not find cigarettes or other tobacco products in supermarkets, corner shops etc. They are only to be found in licensed tobacconists which you can spot by the illuminated blue “T” sign outside.

These follow normal shop hours so make sure you are stocked up for the evening. The upside is that fags cost half of the UK price. The tickets for trams, trains and buses need to be bought before you board and can be obtained from most tobacconists and newsagents. In most large cities there are day tickets valid for all the forms of urban transport. If you need a stamp don’t go to the Post Office. For an Italian going to the PO is worse than having to go for dental treatment – and it can take you all morning. again, buy your stamps from the tobacconist. When you are given a receipt for a purchase or a meal, make sure you have it with you when you leave. the excise authorities (Guardia di Finanza) often operating in plain-clothes, have the right to stop anyone who has just made a purchase and ask for the receipt. If it cannot be produced both the customer and the retailer get fined. this is an antitax evasion measure (ha, ha! My barber hasn’t given me a receipt in 30 years). Shops often close during the afternoons and open again from around 17.00 until 20.00 hrs. they will stay open later in the South. In a bar, pub or cafe unless you sit at a table you are expected to pay the cashier before you order at the bar and then take the receipt to the barman.