TerraTravelersVol.6 Winter 2021

TERRA

TRAVELERS

Extraordinary Findings in the World of Travel

Vol. 6 | Winter 2021

The

NORTH AMERICAN issue

INCLUDING ALBUQUERQUE AUSTIN BRECKENRIDGE PORTLAND QUEBEC SALT LAKE CITY SEATTLE VANCOUVER WASHINGTON DC

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Publisher’s Letter

Planning for Serendipity There’s a word for happy accidents, those series of unplanned events leading to good memories: serendipity. I am convinced the best trips are those in which we allow serendipity to go along for the ride. On a trip to London several years ago, I did something I do with some regularity and never with regret. I had always wanted to go to Glastonbury. It was on my “someday” list. On the spur of the moment I decided it was someday. I checked out of my hotel and left London without any plan other than having a destination: Glastonbury.

The Underground took me to Paddington Station. I had no reservations, no idea how I was getting back to Heathrow for my flight home. A train from Paddington took me to Bath and two bus rides later I stepped onto the streets of Glastonbury. My suitcase in tow, I began walking up High Street. I stopped a gentleman and asked about a B&B or hotel. A few moments later we were talking about Glastonbury and the surrounding area. We hit it off easily and he invited me to his house that afternoon for a glass of wine, explaining that his wife would have no problem with unexpected company.

He then pointed to a B&B down the street and we parted ways.

After checking into the B&B, I gave my new acquaintance, David, a call.

That evening I met his wife, Corrine and learned David was a dealer in rare and first edition books. Their home was a cozy 400 year old structure built from materials taken from the destruction of Glastonbury Abbey. During the next three days I spent much of my time with David and Corrine, learning first hand about Glastonbury, its 2 || Terra Travelers history and culture, eating with them,

touring the area and disappearing many bottles of Pinot Gris. They introduced me to some of their friends and took me to a local community event I would not have seen without their insistence. I made several good friends with which I still correspond and I have been back to visit on a couple of occasions. I will always remember my trip to Glastonbury as a happy accident.

Far too often, we plan down to last detail and our schedules, lists and plans become terrible task masters.

Certainly plans are essential and schedules unavoidable in our travels.

We do ourselves a real service, however, when we treat schedules filled with “must see and do” as more as set of possibilities and suggestions than as the essence of travel. It’s the bottles of wine and meals I shared with David and Corrine that make me smile and will last through the years as a travel experience.

We do well not to make tyrants of our lists and schedules. Stopping to eat at the unscheduled cafe, the conversation with a stranger that causes you to miss a bus or a train, turning left instead of right perhaps by accident and perhaps by intention, often leads to the most remarkable points of interest in any itinerary. Naturally such forays into the unexpected do not always lead to a synchronicity of the first magnitude, but it happens often enough each of us should remember to allow the necessary flexibility to permit luck to do its work of co-authoring our journey’s story line.

The real journey takes place not on a map, but somewhere deep in the interior of our heads and hearts.

TERRA TRAVELERS EXTRAORDINARY FINDINGS IN TRAVEL

PUBLISHER Richard B. Earls

EDITOR Joey DeLoach

AUTHORS Terra Travelers Staff

EDITORIAL & CREATIVE DESIGN Mariana Saca

MARKETING EXECUTIVES Randi White

CIRCULATION & SUBSCRIPTION Mariana Saca

CUSTOMER SERVICE Erin von Scherrer

Terra Travelers seeks to inspire a community of likeminded individuals that respect the road, respect the people we visit, and those with whom we travel.

60 Second geography: The Grand Canyon Carved by the Colorado River, as it winds through the state of Arizona, the Grand Canyon is 277 miles long.

The river has been cutting the canyon for millions of years. Along certain points its depth reaches up to over an astonishing mile of colorfully layered rock that seems to illuminate as the sun sets. The entire canyon is part of the Grand Canyon National Park, which covers 1,901.97 sq. mi.

A massive landmark to explore, the traveler will have no trouble finding the most majestic scenery to take in, or activities to truly experience this great American treasure.

The more easily accessible and popular area of the Grand Canyon is the Southern Rim. Open all year,

this part of the canyon has plenty for the traveler to do. About 24 official overlooks let travelers have mind-blowing views of almost incomprehensible beauty. One of the more iconic of these is the Desert View Watchtower, a 70-foot stone structure built in 1932 to resemble the Ancestral Puebloan watchtowers built by one of the native tribes. This tower offers up one of the best views of the region. Rangers are available to speak about the history and other features.

There are tours that lead the traveler down into the canyon on the back of a sturdy mule, a tried and true way of trekking; while others let the traveler float down the Colorado River to admire the awe-inspiring walls of the Grand Canyon.

One of the best ways to see the landscape leading up to the canyon is the Grand Canyon Railway. Finished in 1901, this 64-mile rail line travels between Williams, Arizona and the Southern Rim of the Grand Canyon National Park. Traveling through plains, prairies, and pine – dramatic scenery will be presented for the traveler’s

enjoyment the entire way. From its start in Williams, the line ends at Grand Canyon Village. This historic village is the hub of tourism for the South Rim. The scenic overlooks in this area are some of the best in the park, including the beforementioned Desert View Watchtower and Yavapai Point. With plenty of lodging, shopping, and rustic buildings reminiscent of old times – getting there on a such a breathtaking mode of travel is half the fun.

The Grand Canyon’s sights will astound the traveler with the epic scale of height and varied colors, especially when arriving by the panoramic views that only a train can provide.

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6

SEATTLE

10

BOSTON

14

QUEBEC CITY

18

ALBUQUERQUE

22

PORTLAND

IN THIS SSUE

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WASHINGTON D.C.

30

BRECKENRIDGE

34

VANCOUVER

38

AUSTIN

42

SALT LAKE CITY

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A GUIDE TO SEEING SEA

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ATTLE

As someone who has been traveling to Emerald City for at least 20 years, I can say that this gem on the Puget never gets old. Seattle is an innovative and adaptive city that feels like its own slice of reality tucked away on the West Coast. Don’t let the cliché of “rainy Seattle” deter you from planning a vacation. A little rain sprinkled on your vacation plans is simply part of the charm of Seattle. However, you’ll find that rain is pretty sparse if you come between June and September.

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GETTING TO SEATTLE

If you’re flying in, Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) is hard to beat for convenience. In addition to being the hub for Alaska Airlines, Seattle-Tacoma is also Delta’s bridge to Asia. This helps to keep a steady roster of flights coming in from the East Coast. It’s a 15-mile drive from the airport to downtown.

If you’re looking for a cheap shuttle, Downtown Airporter will get you and your luggage to a hotel downtown for about $30.

Seattle is known for its boutique hotels. Even popular hotel chains operate specially branded “boutique” properties in Seattle. If you want to be on the water, Inn at the Market is a family-friendly pick overlooking the marina.

For efficiency with a chic edge, the Maxwell Hotel is an obvious pick. The Mediterranean Inn, Hotel Theodore, Silver Cloud Hotel and Mayflower Park Hotel are nice options if you don’t want to go with “safe bets” like W Seattle, Grand Hyatt Seattle and Embassy Suites.

TOP PICKS IN SEATTLE Now, I know that the Space Needle is considered the attraction in Seattle.

However, no attraction in Emerald City moved me quite like the Central Public Library. This stunning piece of architecture consisting of humongous glass panels and a four-story spiral of literary works is the soul of the city.

Another soulful spot in Seattle is the Chihuly Garden and Glass. This Dale Chihuly exhibit consists of eight galleries accompanied by a robust outdoor garden. Crowds gather both day and night for various activities associated with the exhibit. There’s also a dining room at the site.

million people with promises of the freshest seafood, produce and treats on the West Coast annually. Come hungry! If you cover the Main Arcade portion, you’re sure to be offered samples of candies, cheeses and fresh fruit. Don’t forget to look for Rachel the Pig to take a picture with this bronze beauty who has become the mascot of the market in recent years.

If you want to get to the top of the Space Needle, be warned that this isn’t an activity you can do on a whim.

Get your tickets for the Space Needle as far in advance as possible once you know you’re coming to Seattle.

The quintessential spot for forming This experience is a steal at just over your own love story with Seattle, $20 per person when you considPike Place Market attracts nearly 10 er that you see 360-degree views 8 || Terra Travelers

reaching the Puget Sound, Bellevue and Mount Rainier.

Seattle’s Woodland Park Zoo is a conservation site spanning 92 acres that should make your list! This gorgeously maintained space is home to more than 1,000 animals. What I found interesting as I strolled through this park is that the designers of the campus were able to turn the climate of the Pacific Northwest into multiple bioclimatic zones to recreate the natural habitats of hundreds of different species of animals. You’ll encounter everything from desert to tropical forests during your visit.

I recommend taking the ferry to Bainbridge Island if you can squeeze in the time. One of the things I did

LET SEATTLE SHOW YOU A LITTLE MAGIC ON THE WEST COAST

Saltwater and Seattle rain make a magical combination! I think this is a city for people who “hate” cities because the Puget Sound and Mount Rainier form a barrier that prevents this city from losing its roots. If you have extra time, I recommend making the two-hour drive for a road trip to Mount Rainier National Park.

not know about Seattle until I visited in person is that its port has one of the most impressive and extensive ferry systems in the country. Both people and cars can board ferries to visit nearby islands. After a pleasant 35-minute ferry ride, I landed on quaint Bainbridge Island for leisurely shopping and dining in a small town peppered with forests and gardens.

If you want a “waterway” experience without taking off on a ferry, I recommend the Ballard Locks. A visit here offers views of the waterway system connecting the saltwater of Washington’s Puget Sound with fresh water. It’s enjoyable and educational to watch boats enter the locks.

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BOSTON 10 || Terra Travelers

Boston is living history, a college town, a sports town, and a harbor city rolled into one amazingly walkable package. Do put Boston on your list of cities to see if you have a weakness for New England charm. Let’s look at some of the Bean Town treasures that should be on your checklist.

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GETTING TO BOSTON

history still on your mind, head to the Congress Street Bridge to Boston is pretty easy to drive to if see the Boston Tea Party Ships you live on the East Coast. How- and Museum. ever, flying into Logan is also easy enough if you’re coming from far The Boston Public Garden is away. It’s also pretty simple to get like the Central Park of Bean from Logan into the city using Town. If you’re looking for the either the Logan Express bus or famous bronze ducks, find your Silver Line. It’s free to take the way to the corner of Beacon and Silver Line from Logan Airport Charles. Bring a lunch along to inbound to South Station. Once relax to views of swan boats and you’re in Boston, you can virtual- bushy trees as you sit in the garly rely on walking or the T to get den. When you’re ready to purto most places. sue the finer things, Boston has a long list of world-class museums waiting for you. The Museum of THE BEST THINGS TO Fine Arts, the Museum of Science, the Boston Public Library SEE IN BOSTON and the John F. Kennedy PresiYou can hit many attractions in dential Museum and Library all rapid succession in Boston be- deserve good chunks of your cause there are so many free, time. open tourist attractions that don’t necessarily require tickets or I make a point to visit Boston’s reservations. Faneuil Hall Mar- North End every time I’m in ketplace is a given. This bricked town. The city’s “Little Italy” takes pedestrian marketplace is lined up most of Hanover Street, where with stalls, shops and little eater- you’ll find what many consider to ies. On a sunny day, you’ll usual- be the best cannoli in America at ly see musicians setting up with Mike’s Pastry. You can dart off of their violins to perform for the the Freedom Trail after seeing shoppers and sightseers. the Paul Revere House and Old North Church to wander into Boston is a place that you’ll love Little Italy for a quick cannoli or if you enjoy self-guided tours. pizza slice before resuming your Make the 2.5-mile trek along the journey.

Freedom Trail to take in key sites related to the American Revolu- If you’re okay with exploring outtion. You can pick up the trail at side of downtown, the Samuel Boston Common before follow- Adams Brewery in Jamaica Plain ing the red line to Bunker Hill. has a fantastic beer garden. You You can also choose a guided tour should also consider crossing the with costumed guides and live- Charles River into Cambridge to ly historical reenactments. With visit Harvard Square and the cam-

pus of Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Cambridge has its own collection of elite museums that are open to the public.

The list includes the Harvard Art Museums (Fogg Museum and Bush-Reisinger Museum), the Harvard Museum of Natural History and the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology.

Boston also happens to be a great launching point for some purely New England excursions. Boats leave from the harbor all day long to carry you to places like Nantucket and Plymouth. There are also bus tours to spots like Salem and the Berkshires.

ENJOY A METROPOLITAN SLICE OF HISTORY IN BOSTON Boston is a city that “offers it all” because it has so many identities.

One of the most exciting things about Boston is that you feel like you can barely walk a few feet without ending up on a college campus! There are 35 colleges and universities interwoven into Boston’s landscape in total. If you enjoy “college” towns, come while school is in session. The city does lose much of its academic population during the summer months. The bottom line is that the cobbled streets of Boston will always lead you to something interesting any time of year!

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MAKE A FRENCH CONNECTION Québec City

If you’re based in North America, there’s no better way to feel like you flew to a new continent than a trip to Québec City! The French influences here are obvious as are the unexpected culture and quaintness you’ll find. There’s nothing quite like watching ice move slowly over the surface of the St. Lawrence River after a day of shopping at Québec’s winter markets.

While the summer is a beautiful time for cycling along waterway-adjacent paths in Québec, the warmer months don’t necessarily show off the city’s full magic. My suggestion for seeing the best of Québec City is to come just before or after the holidays to tour a wonderland of decorated cathedrals and German Christmas markets. Of course, it’s more than worth making the trip north of the border to sip some legendary Canadian “carnival grog” during the famed pre-Lenten Québec Winter Carnival. Let’s cover the attractions and neighborhoods to hit in Québec City in any season.

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Getting to Québec City Québec City Airport is an easy spot to fly into if you’re coming from the United States. American Airlines and United Airlines are the two main airlines out of America offering flights to Québec City. Air Canada also has some good options. You can also use Amtrak to get to Québec City by boarding in New York to get to Montréal before using VIA Rail’s Montréal-Québec City route to arrive!

What makes Québec City such

a convenient holiday spot, even if it may seem a little far away for you, is that it has a well-developed transit system. That means that a lot of the work of figuring out how to navigate a new city is done for you. You also don’t have to worry about renting a car if you plan to stay in the city. However, you will see tons of familiar rental brands if you do decide to rent a car. Budget, Enterprise, Avis and Hertz all operate out of Québec City.

When visiting Québec City, the idea of staying near Old Québec intrigued me. Ultimately, I was able to enjoy what was an exquisite stay at Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac on Rue des Carrieres for around $200 per night. You can also get just a little further away from the center of Old Québec in a much cheaper room that includes free breakfast if you choose Hotel Chateau Bellevue.

The Top Things to See in Québec City Having an affinity for Old Québec, this is my starting point.

This neighborhood is incredibly charming in the winter because light dustings of snow and outdoor ice rinks paint the neighborhood. The cobblestone roads, inviting cafés, galleries and old city gates all conspire to make you feel like you’re in a miniature Paris.

Getting deeper into the city, a visit to Terrasse Dufferin is a must-do adventure! This is a large walking and biking path that follows the seaway. As you walk, amazing views of the St. Lawrence River and Old Québec will come into sight. If you cover the entire 1-kilometer stretch, you’ll be treated to glimpses of the city’s old walls, the Citadelle and Promenande des Gouverneurs.

My appreciation for the quaint side of Québec reached its peak

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when I discovered a popular public square called Place Royale. A gathering place for centuries, this cobbled square is lined with old houses, shops, restaurants, museums and a church. Most of the “commercial” buildings on the square have been converted from French-style homes built between the end of the 1600s and the start of the 1700s.

Adding to the Parisian feel of my Québec City vacation was a trip to the Basilique Cathedral-Basilica of Notre-Dame de Québec.

This 17th-century church is distinguished by its soaring ceilings and ornate stained glass. The church is an especially delightful place to see when it is decorated for Christmas with beautiful bows and a detailed crèche scene.

During my Québec City vacation, I learned that Québec is home to falls that are higher

than the famed Niagara Falls! At 275 feet, the falls at Parc de la Chute-Montmorency are worth the trip! You can enjoy views by either hiking your way to the viewing area or using the cable cars. It’s only a 15-minute drive from Québec City’s center to Parc de la Chute-Montmorency.

You can use the city’s bus system to get off at the Brideau stop to reach the falls.

The last spot on my must-see list for Québec City is the Citadelle. What Americans will find fascinating about this historic fortress is that it was built to protect the city against a potential attack

by American forces over a period spanning from 1820 to 1850. Situated next to Québec’s Plains of Abraham, this historic site offers exceptional views of the St. Lawrence River and Québec City.

Final Thoughts on Seeing the Full Québec City I want to recommend taking a little time to see Québec City from the water before wrapping up my tour tips! I learned during my trip that you could take of $3 ferry ride right out of Old Québec City to enjoy views from the water. This quick excursion only takes about 15 minutes to cross the water in either direction.

Overall, Québec City is my pick if you want to plan a “European” holiday without actually budgeting for or planning a European holiday!

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ALBUQUERQUE: A Southwestern Gem on the Rio Grande

A visit to Albuquerque is absolutely transformative if you’re coming from a part of the country that doesn’t have rust-colored rock formations, raw deserts, and missions dating back centuries. The mix of time-honored and modern attractions here makes New Mexico’s largest city a must-visit spot to remember the next time you get hit with a case of wanderlust. Let’s talk about how to let Albuquerque put some Southwestern style into your veins in just a few days.

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GETTING TO ALBUQUERQUE If you’re flying to Albuquerque, Albuquerque International Sunport (ABQ) is the widely used gate to New Mexico. As an official hub for Southwest Airlines, Sunport always has many cheap flights up for grabs from bigger cities. Alaska, American, Delta, United, and JetBlue all also fly in and out of Sunport. The airport is just about 10 minutes from downtown. If you’re not keen on flying to Albuquerque, you might like to know that the city has Amtrak service from 128 cities around the country. It will take you just over a day to ride in from New York City.

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Things to Do in Albuquerque The first thing I’m going to recommend doing in the city will take you a little bit out of the city. Grab your tickets to take in stunning views of the crest line of the Sandia Mountains on the Sandia Peak Tramway.

This one-of-a-kind attraction is the longest aerial tram in the Americas.

San Felipe de Neri Church on your list. Constructed more than 300 years ago, this adobe-style Catholic mission predates the Revolutionary War. It is the oldest surviving building in Albuquerque. It also positions you nicely for a visit to the rest of Old Town.

My next pick is ABQ BioPark. This campus is several attractions in one.

First, the ABQ BioPark Botanic Garden dazzles you with 1.5 miles of manicured paths teeming with colors and subtle wildlife. Next, the show-stopping zoo located next to the Rio Grande will delight you with its famed penguins, seals, and sea lions. There’s also a world-class aquarium on the campus showcasing aquatic wonders spanning from the Rio Grande to the Gulf of Mexico.

The gem of any visit to New Mexico, Old Town Albuquerque brings together history, entertainment, and commerce in a delightful way.

This chunk of the city came to be when a group of Spanish families found it to be a pleasant spot to settle in near the Rio Grand in 1706.

Old Town has more than 150 shops, restaurants, and galleries to explore in total. The big anchors of Old Town are the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History and the New Mexico Museum of Natural History and Science.

Another bright spot on any Albuquerque trip is the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. Operated in conjunction with New Mexico’s 19 Pueblos, this attraction immerses you in traditional New Mexican culture by way of live dance performances, food, museum exhibits, and more. While you’re in the mood to step back in time, put the

If you find yourself in the position to come to Albuquerque during the holidays, don’t miss out! Old Town is famed for its vibrant luminaria displays during December.

As you’d expect, Old Town is food central for ABQ. Find your way to La Hacienda of Old Town, Taqueria Alondra’s Mexican Food, and

La Placita Dining Room if you’re coming in search of traditional Mexican cuisine. If you’re strictly looking for margaritas, I’ve found Monroe’s Restaurant to be the best spot. I appreciated all of the small cafés and “treat” establishments peppering Old Town during my visit because I tend to grab and go while I shop. Q Chocolate, the Candy Lady and Blackbird Coffee House ended up being my favorites after several days of snacking around Old Town.

While I didn’t personally have an interest in visiting the American International Rattlesnake Museum I passed by during my time in Old Town, I did chat with a family with young kids visiting from the East Coast. They found it to be the highlight of their trip. It’s really easy to finish up at Old Town with bags of gifts to bring back home. The artisan shops and trading posts that pepper sidewalks here are filled with treasures that only exist here.

You’ll find the right mix of jewelry, crafts and wares at Genuine Southwest Arts and Gifts right on Old Town Road. Plaza Indian Trading Post is another one with really high-quality, authentic goods.

Beautiful, Natural Albuquerque Should Be on Your Bucket List Albuquerque is a very open, airy city where you always feel like you’re just a whisper away from nature. While I didn’t mention the University of New Mexico, you

should know that the campus is also worth a visit if you’re interested in exploring a few hundred acres of attractive buildings and manicured terrain. Overall, you can’t go wrong

with a city bordered by mountains and the Rio Grande. This Southwest city is proof that vacations are best when served with a side of red chile sauce!

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PORTLAN

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ND A trip to Portland should be on the list if you find yourself on the West Coast.

I like Portland because you can have a great experience even if you can only stop in for a day. It’s my top pick if you’re looking for a city that’s made for biking!

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Getting to Portland

Almost everyone who flies into Oregon uses Portland International Airport (PDX).

You can get from the airport to downtown in just under 40 minutes without traffic. One thing that makes Portland an ideal city for popping in and out is its MAX Light Rail.

This five-line rail system can get you from the airport to downtown easily. You can also use it to get from downtown to various Portland neighborhoods. If you’re coming to Portland from Seattle, a straight shot up Interstate 5 takes about three hours.

How to See the Best of the Pacific Northwest in Portland My list of things to see and do every time I visit Portland is relatively short. I can’t leave until I’ve visited a brewery, walked through the Japanese gardens and taken at least a short bike ride.

The Portland Japanese Garden transports you to the Orient at every level. It’s considered to be the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan. As a bonus, you’ll find the International Rose Test Garden right down the street on Kingston. This fragrant, flourishing attraction is the oldest public rose garden in the country.

A visit covering both makes for a fantastic afternoon that will leave you with an unforgettable impression of Portland.

A lot is said about keeping Portland “weird.” However, I find that taking time to appreciate the roots of this city offers a nice balance when exploring its zanier attractions. This is why I enjoyed 24 || Terra Travelers

my visit to the Pittock Mansion. Built in 1914, this estate is a pleasure to tour if you want to learn about the people who made Portland what it is today.

I’ve been lucky enough to be able to visit the famed Portland Saturday Market after finding myself in town on the weekend.

An enduring feature of Old Town, the market can be found at Waterfront Park and Ankeny Plaza. Hundreds of vendors show up to sell food and wares in the company of live performers each weekend. I’ll also highlight some of the neighborhoods to hit when in Portland. Pick the Alberta Arts District if you only have time to devote to one thing. Featuring eclectic galleries, restaurants and bars, this is the zone people picture when they think of “weird” Portland. On the suggestion of a local, I ducked into Case Study Coffee Roasters for a house

espresso that I still think about to this day!

What brought me to the Pearl district was the Deschutes Brewery Portland Public House that everyone suggested visiting. I had a great time tasting in-house brews under the exposed ceiling beams belonging to an old garage at the brewery. I also fell in love with the beautiful reclaimed warehouses that have been turned into art galleries and upscale restaurants in this neighborhood. This is also a good spot if you’re looking for a mix of designer retailers and artisan vendors.

I’ve been lucky enough to fit in some urban cycling while in Portland. I had the best luck following the 10-mile trail on the Willamette River bike path that runs neatly through Waterfront Park. If you’re confident, you can also duck off the trail to head into Chinatown and the Pearl District.

Some Thoughts on Portland Excursions My time in Portland has mostly consisted of visiting true “Portland” attractions.

However, I want to point out that Portland is an incredible hub for more significant excursions. There are endless shuttles that will bring you on a one-hour journey to the Columbia River Gorge. You can also sign up for guided waterfall hikes around the gorge. The company that you’ll see everywhere around Portland is called Columbia Gorge Express. If you want an excursion that keeps you a little closer to your hotel, the Willamette River fills up with dinner cruises every evening.

These dinner cruises tend to double as “bridge tours” that take you by Hawthorne Bridge, Marquam Bridge, Ross Island Bridge, Sellwood Bridge, Burnside Bridge and Steel Bridge. You may also be able to catch peeks of the glowing rides at Oaks Park Amusement Park just outside of downtown Portland.

There’s Nothing Weird About Loving Portland You can scale your Portland trip up or down based on how much time you have.

If you’re going for a full-blown vacation experience, it’s worth paying for a oneday excursion to the Columbia River Gorge. However, I say you can get the full Portland experience with just a garden visit and some urban cycling.

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discover history’s surprises during a tr

WASHINGTON D. While planning my most recent trip to the capital area, I knew that I’d be spending a lot of time touring museums and monuments during the day in Washington D.C. What I didn’t expect was all of the exciting things I’d end up doing after dark. The two last-minute additions that I plugged into my itinerary were both after-dark tours. They both turned out to be my favorite parts of the trip! Let’s cover what you should see during the day and night in D.C.

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rip to

D.C.

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GETTING TO WASHINGTON D.C. If you’re flying into Washington, Reagan National Airport right over the border in Arlington is the best bet. While it may seem like flying into Virginia would be a hassle, the airport is only about a 13-minute drive from the center of D.C. You can also use the Blue or Yellow lines serving the Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport Metrorail station to skip the roads.

As you can imagine, D.C. is a comfortable place to book a stay in because there are just tons of hotels. There are huge

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ranges in nightly rates that allow you to decide whether you’d like to live like a budget traveler or diplomat while you’re in town. On the budget end, Phoenix Park Hotel and Hotel Hive are two midrange, business-type hotels that routinely offer rooms for below $100 per night. For something statelier, Mandarin Oriental, Willard InterContinental and the Watergate Hotel can all make you feel necessary for close to $200 to $250 per night.

TOP THINGS TO SEE IN WASHINGTON D.C. I’ll start with the museums. I have to admit that I always feel a bit of pressure to cram in as much as I can when I’m in Washington because of the unmatched collection of world-class museums here. You obviously can’t skip the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History and the National Gallery of Art if you’ve never visited before. I’ll also add the International Spy Museum and the National Zoo to the list if you have the time. For history buffs, visiting the National Archives Museum that brags a document list that includes the Declaration of Independence, the Bill of Rights, and the Constitution is a surreal experience.

I also want to highlight a few places that will take you out of the hustle and bustle of D.C. for just a bit. The first is the National Arboretum. Known as the home of the giant and legendary National Capitol Columns, this huge garden space spans nearly 450 acres. You

will truly feel like you are walking through “America’s garden” when you tour this amazing sliver of D.C. history. I was also totally enchanted by the Tidal Basin where the Potomac River and Washington Channel come together. This gorgeous spot is best known for being the place to spot cherry blossoms in the spring. However, it’s a vibrant, fun spot any time of the year. While I didn’t rent a paddle-boat, watching boaters from the cement dock was more than satisfying.

One of the most exciting experiences I had in D.C. happened after I crossed the river after dark into historic Old Town Alexandria. This area is a passport to the past that features cobblestone streets and old taverns. I accompanied a friend on a “haunted pub crawl” that I was reluctant to experience at first simply because I tend to skip gimmicky attractions in my travels. I was more than de-

lighted by what turned out to be a very educational, fun tour of four different pubs with rich histories that intertwine with the legends of D.C. I also booked a guided D.C. monument tour by moonlight this time around. This is really the perfect way to see the monuments because you aren’t dealing with crowds or the hot sun. The particular company I used for this excursion is called Washington DC Urban Adventures. This tour experience was different from anything I had ever experienced before because I traveled around in a quiet, open-sided electric vehicle that offered just the right pace to soak in everything! The list we covered by moonlight included the White House, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, the Jefferson Memorial and Capitol Hill. In total, we traversed the area from the Tidal Basin to the Smithsonian.

FIND YOUR OWN WAY TO EXPERIENCE D.C. I was glad that I decided to take advantage of a few guided tours during my latest trip to Washington because I had really only relied on self-guided walking tours in the past. Being able to sit back, relax and allow myself to be surprised helped me to see the nation’s capital from a new lens. Generally, I think it’s good to cover many of the attractions in D.C. on your own because this allows you to move at your own pace when taking in such a cornucopia of sites. However, I do think that fitting in some guided after-dark tours creates a very well-rounded trip!

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BRECKENR 30 || Terra Travelers

RIDGE

Skiing, Eating and Merriment Among Meadows Waiting for you at the base of the Tenmile Range within the Rocky Mountains is one of America’s most enduring holiday spots. Over the years, Breckenridge has beckoned me many times! A fan of both powder and blooming mountain meadows, I always oblige when I can find the time to sneak away during any month of the year. Anyone who has ever spent time in this charming Colorado locale will assure you that it’s a wonderful spot to visit even if you don’t ski or snowboard. My impression of Breckenridge is that it’s a very friendly, cheerful spot that retains just enough of that elegance you expect from a high-end, chalet-lined resort area. The many sightings of moose and elk are welcome surprises that create a nice balance to all of the great shopping and dining you can do in this little sliver of the Rockies. While a trip here requires at least a full weekend, I’ll try to run through the highlights of Breckenridge with some brevity.

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GETTING TO BRECKENRIDGE If you’re flying into Colorado to visit Breckenridge, keep in mind that you’ll be a good 95 miles away from Breckenridge’s slopes when you get off the plane in Denver. That means looking into a rental car or shuttle to take a mountain drive to your hotel or rental house. Alamo, Enterprise and Budget are on the list of 10 rental companies that operate out of Denver’s airport. If you’re looking for someone to drive you over the mountains

from Denver to Breckenridge, an option like Peak 1 Express or Epic Mountain Express should be easy enough to arrange. This is a popular enough route that you certainly won’t struggle to find a way to get from the airport to your rental even though the drive can be almost two hours. You’ll get just a little bit closer if you choose to fly into Eagle/Vail Regional Airport instead. However, most people find that shaving off just 20 miles isn’t usually worth the

higher airfare rates.

You have a lot of freedom to design the type of experience you want up there in the Rockies. Some people prefer the all-inclusive, highly social experience you get by staying at a hotel-condo spot like The Village at Breckenridge. You’ll also find tons of private rentals peppering passes within the Rockies that provide easy access to the slopes if you’re planning to get a rental car during your visit.

SOME BRECKENRIDGE BACKGROUND Founded by prospectors, Breckenridge stands today as a vacation goldmine. I’ll start with this Colorado town’s lovely downtown area. The fantastic thing about Breckenridge is that it’s only 7 miles by 2 miles in size. However, this mountain town’s picturesque downtown manages to squeeze in more than 100 restaurants and bars.

Be sure to head to Fatty’s Pizzeria for some authentic Rocky 32 || Terra Travelers

Mountain pie when you’re in the mood to grab a pizza dinner with some pints. You’ll also be able to tap into the energy of Breckenridge if you dine at beloved spots like the Breckenridge Tap House, Hearthstone Restaurant or Relish. Stopping at La Francaise French Bakery for pastries and fresh coffee on your lazier days spent off the slopes is a tradition in Breckenridge. Just be prepared to

wait in line if you show up on a weekend morning. It’s worth getting out downtown even if you’re pretty confident that your ski lodge or rental offers all you could want by way of entertainment. The contrast of snowcapped roofs and glowing storefronts on a Saturday night in December or January just before the crowds are about to hit the bars is something else!

RAISING YOUR PULSE ON THE POWDER: SKI HIGHLIGHTS IN BRECKENRIDGE Breckenridge comes across as a low-key ski town. However, it has quite a few claims to fame under its belt. For one, Breckenridge Ski Resort became home to the highest chairlift in North America when it opened up the Imperial Express SuperChair back in 2005. This lift takes you an extraordinary 12,840 feet in the air to reach Peak 8.

Breckenridge Ski Resort boasts five peaks spread over more than 2,900 acres. The

park also contains four terrain parks. Once inside the resort, you can spend days skiing, snowboarding, rock climbing, fly fishing and dog sledding. If you feel more comfortable on solid footing, take advantage of the hundreds of hiking trails surrounding Breckenridge.

If you come in the summer, wildflower meadows and waterfalls will make you forget that this place is even famous for snow!

You’ll also find a good num-

ber of spas and yoga studios just beyond the slopes. During warmer months, you can also abandon skiing entirely for guided rafting on the Colorado River using a popular agency like Arkansas Valley Adventures. If you’d like a personal tour of Breckenridge that shows off all that downtown has to offer while also highlighting this mining town’s mysterious past, Breckenridge Tours Ghostly Tales offers an unforgettable time.

PLANNING A VISIT TO BRECKENRIDGE It’s no mistake that many people consider Breckenridge to be the best skiing spot in all of Colorado. I think a big part of Breckenridge’s golden reputation also rests in the fact that non-skiing travel companions who get “dragged along” for the ride can also have complete, exciting vacations just by exploring a mix of downtown Breckenridge and surrounding trails. Don’t skip Breckenridge if you have an opportunity to get out to the Rockies any time of the year!

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The

34 || Terra Travelers

e Seawall Meets the City in

VANCOUVER

After a visit to Vancouver, I boarded my plane with the impression that it is truly one of the best cities in the world. I couldn’t get enough of the food, outdoor markets and beautiful architecture of this gem of British Columbia. Let’s cover the things you need to see if you’re headed to Vancouver.

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GETTING TO VANCOUVER Vancouver is a comfortable flight from the West Coast of the United States. United, American, Alaska and Delta all fly to and from Vancouver International Airport.

The airport is located just about 12 kilometers from downtown.

Many people also enjoy the Pacific Northwest route on Amtrak Cascades that covers Seattle, Portland and Eugene on the way up to

Vancouver. Once in the city, you can use the SkyTrain rapid-transit system to get to many places for around $3 per ride. SkyTrain is especially useful if you’re plotting a way to get from a hotel downtown to the waterfront area.

Downtown Vancouver is strong for familiar hotel chains. There are plenty of opportunities to use loyalty points at spots like Holiday Inn

Hotel & Suites Vancouver Downtown, Holiday Inn Vancouver-Centre Broadway, Hyatt Regency Vancouver, JW Marriott Parq Vancouver and Residence Inn by Marriott Vancouver Downtown.

If you’re looking for something highly elegant, Wedgewood Hotel & Spa and Coast Coal Harbour Vancouver Hotel by APA are both excellent picks.

Top Things to See in Vancouver Where should you dive in with sightseeing in Vancouver?

I couldn’t have been more impressed by my visit to Stanley Park.

This lush space on the Seawall features a 5.5-mile route for walking and cycling that blows every other park of its kind in North America out of the water. Of course, talking about Stanley Park brings us to the topic of the Seawall. This gorgeous geological formation offers views of both the city and the water. I’m not sure you can say you’ve been to Vancouver unless you’ve visited it!

Being unfamiliar with Vancouver, I mostly stuck to the “popular” attractions. My itinerary consisted of visits to the Vancouver Aquarium, Queen Elizabeth Park and the VanDusen Botanical Garden.

A visit to Downtown Vancouver is

its own experience. Of course, you have to devote at least a little bit of time to Gastown. This neighborhood is famed for its Victorian buildings, art galleries, eclectic shops and great bars. I found it the perfect place to grab a seafood sandwich before staying a little later into the evening to wait for the bars to fill up. Be warned that the neighborhood does have a very hip, youthful vibe once the sun goes down if you prefer something relaxed.

I really can’t recommend Vancouver without also recommending a visit to Granville Island.

Granville Island is a peninsula that has evolved into the most vibrant shopping and culinary district in British Columbia. The easiest way to get there from downtown is to take the False Creek Ferry. Once

on the peninsula, you can visit the famed Granville Market. Exploring this market was indeed a once-ina-lifetime experience even though I’ve been to my share of markets around the world. This is an indoor market with a mix of produce, specialty foods, crafts and gift items.

Of course, the highlight of this market is its seafood portion because you’re in the rare position to procure fresh catches from the Pacific Northwest. I was fortunate enough to receive a suggestion to take the brewery tour at Granville Island Brewing after getting into a chat with someone using the ferry to get to work in Granville. Opened in 1984, Granville Island Brewing is the original brewery that kicked off the microbrewery craze that is still growing in Vancouver.

Some Final Vancouver Observations

A visit to Vancouver requires a Stanley Park visit because getting to know this park will help you understand more about the interconnectedness of the city. After making the trip to Granville Island, I can also say that my vacation just||wouldn’t have felt “complete” 36 Terra Travelers without the experience. One thing

I am looking forward to during any future trips to Vancouver is a tour by seaplane. I didn’t realize that enjoying views of the city and surrounding shoreline this way was such a big deal until I noticed charter companies advertising all around the city. I did bump into a few out-of-town visitors who were

raving about their experiences on these chartered tours. The bottom line is that I don’t think any American who has enjoyed cities like Seattle and Portland can say that they know the Pacific Northwest until they’ve experienced it from the Canadian side in Vancouver.

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History, Music and Creek Jumping in

AUSTIN It’s incredible to see what’s happening with Austin. During my recent visit, I realized that Austin is nearly on par with giants like New York and Los Angeles when it comes to being a culture driver. I also walked away with the impression that this is a music city down to its bones. There are hundreds of venues and bars where you can see live shows.

Of course, the food scene in Austin is beyond legendary at this point. Where should you start with it all? Take a look at some core Austin attractions to have on your list before you make the trip.

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GETTING TO AUSTIN You can use Austin-Bergstrom International Airport (ABIA) to fly right to the city, an excellent option if you plan to grab a cheap Southwest Airlines ticket. Austin generally has a good variety of cheap flights. If you’re in a pinch, San Antonio is also an option because you can make the drive from SAT to Austin in just over an hour. Austin is one of the best airports for getting from the terminal to downtown cheaply. After landing, I used Capital Metro’s 100-AirportFlyer bus to get downtown for less than $2.

Austin’s list of great hotels seems to expand every day as the city grows. Archer Hotel Austin is a great pick if you want to be within walking distance of everywhere. During my visit, I chose this hotel because I was able to take advantage of the hotel’s free shuttle service to get to attractions that were within a three-mile radius of the hotel. I did almost book a stay at Hotel Ella after becoming enchanted with the grounds before deciding that the property was a little bit farther from downtown’s core than I wanted to be.

Great Things to See in Austin I tend to gravitate toward “history buff” attractions first whenever I travel. Naturally, I hit the Texas State Capitol and LBJ Presidential Library first during my Austin tour. I was glad that a friend who had recently been to Austin recommended the Barton Springs Pool, a natural limestone formation that fills up via underground springs. Locals use it for everything from fishing to baptisms. I was impressed by such a fascinating natural oddity that feels so “at home” in Austin.

Another distinctly Austin attraction that I have to recommend is the Congress Avenue Bridge.

However, locals know it as the home of the “Austin bats.” This bridge is the home to roughly 1.5 million native bats that can be seen swooping in and out of their habitat if you stay long enough to catch a glance. Crowds gather near the water daily to try to see these famous Austin “residents.” The best time to go is around dusk. However, the vibrant murals and eclectic shops lining the street near the bridge will make you glad you came even if you don’t end up seeing the bats.

I also recommend seeing the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center if you have the time. Located in a quiet portion of downtown, this stunning space

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exists for the sake of conserving native plants. It is truly an escape in the center of Austin that will make you think you’ve somehow landed in a Texas prairie in the blink of an eye!

For a taste of artsy South Austin, I highly recommend focusing on South Congress Avenue. I enjoyed a great meal on the patio at Hotel San Jose’s during my jaunt through South Congress. I also fit in some time to pop into Tesoros Trading Company, Yard Dog Art Gallery, and a handful of other spots while browsing the wide-ranging galleries and shops of South Austin.

I’ll probably make time to go on a guided brewery or dining tour if I make it back to Austin. However, I feel that I did pretty well just relying on suggestions from friendly locals when it was time to chow down.

The prevalence of outdoor dining in Austin makes it pretty clear which restaurants are in high demand. I should add that I did shave about half of a day from my Austin trip to make an excursion to Mckinney Falls, a gorgeous state park just bordering Austin at the confluence of Onion Creek and Williamson Creek. The draw to going is that you can do some fantastic creek swimming just about 20 minutes from downtown.

Austin Never Disappoints Nobody ever has a bad time in Austin. This is a very young, fresh city where you always feel like you’re on the verge of something big. I enjoyed being able to fit a quick getaway to a creek into my recent visit because it brought a genuine Texas vibe to the whole experience.

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SALT LA 42 || Terra Travelers

AKE city Salt Lake City always seemed a bit like a mystical, spun-in-a-dream spot enwrapped in ethereal, meringue-like white peaks to me before I got a chance to visit the city for myself. After spending a little time there, I can say that my assumptions were correct! Those gorgeous peaks that you always see in Salt Lake City’s background are skyline shots belonging to the Wasatch Mountains. Exploring this range in any part of the 160 miles that stretch to the Utah-Idaho border is its own vacation. A lot of people also like to bundle trips to Salt Lake City with Yellowstone vacations. The drive is just about four hours. If you’re looking for a shuttle that will let you enjoy views instead of focusing on driving, a company like Salt Lake Express offers daily shuttles. However, I’ll just be focusing on what there is to see in and around downtown in Salt Lake City!

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GETTING TO SALT LAKE CITY If you’re planning to fly in, Salt Lake City International Airport (SLC) will be your obvious choice. In addition to being a hub for Delta, SLC is also served by United and American. The really good news is that JetBlue and Southwest seem to also love this airport. Ultimately, Salt Lake is one of the best cities in the country for finding cheap, frequent flights. Salt Lake is one of the rare major cities to have its airport positioned just four miles from the center of downtown.

That means you don’t necessarily need a rental car if you prefer to take a shuttle or hail a ride.

What to Expect in Salt Lake City First, the Mormon in- essentially to Mormons fluences on everything what the Vatican is to from architecture to Catholics. The centerattitudes are appar- piece of the campus is ent everywhere in Salt the Salt Lake Temple.

Lake City. The city’s Most of the grounds are population is about open to non-Mormon split between Mormons tourists just looking and non-Mormons. As to take in some sights! a result, you get a nice Also stunning is the intersection of fun bars Tabernacle. While this and fascinating reli- may feel like a place of gious landmarks. I have secrecy at first glance, to recommend Temple outsiders are invited to Square if you’re look- stop in to watch choir ing to get right into rehearsals and hear the action after arriving in world-famous Taberthe city. This is a 10- nacle organ! acre complex of buildIt always feels like 44 ||facilities Terra Travelers ings and that is fate aligns to make

life easier in Salt Lake City every time I visit.

This has to be the most non-frustrating city in the United States in terms of layout and accessibility! Even finding a hotel is breezy. Salt Lake City’s downtown features Salt Lake City Marriot Center, the Salt Lake Plaza Hotel, the Grand America Hotel, the Metropolitan Hotel and dozens more that offer luxury within walking distance of nearly everything.

Some Key Salt Lake City Attractions for Your Itinerary Red Butte Garden is a highlight. Consisting of close to 100 acres of both manicured and pure terrain, this garden invites you to explore the city’s foothills at a leisurely pace. Hundreds of thousands of blooms populate the garden in the spring.

Utah’s Hogle Zoo is another fun spot to discover in Salt Lake City.

Spanning 42 acres, this impressive zoo is home to roughly 800 animals.

The standout exhibit in the zoo is the African savanna campus that serves as a grassland home to African lions, zebras

and giraffes. The zoo’s elephant exhibit is also a spectacular surprise.

There’s also a big-cat exhibit that certainly made my hair stand up a bit!

One thing I did not expect during my first visit to Salt Lake City was that the city is a hub for luxury shopping! Located right on Main Street, City Creek Center is a high-end, ultra-manicured retail and dining destination. You’ll find everything from department stores like Nordstrom to niche retailers like Fabletics when you pop in. I don’t know that

I can say that Salt Lake City has a definitive “culinary” identity. You do get the impression that restaurateurs here really go out of their way to get past the infamous Utah casserole dishes we’ve all been warned about by going heavy on fusion influences. You’ll find a good mix of steak houses, oyster houses, pizza joints, sushi joints and diners in the city. The standouts near downtown for me are Current Fish & Oyster, Log Haven and the Pie Pizzeria.

Salt Lake Really Is a World Within a World

I have to say that Salt Lake City did feel like a place from a dream the time I watched African lions peeking out from frayed tall grass on the same day that I heard organ music coming from a sacred Mormon temple. No place in the world pulls off being quite so welcoming and enigmatic at the same time as Salt Lake City! You’re going to love the way that natural beauty, industry and mysticism can come together|| to Terra Travelers 45create a one-of-a-kind city like Salt Lake City.

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