Food Trends in Dining

Restaurant Progress – Unique to the Melrose District

By Nicholas D. Butler

Among the constellation of upstart restaurants that have recently opened in Uptown Phoenix, Restaurant Progress is a star that beckons to diners looking for a fresh perspective. Nestled in the former Melrose Pharmacy building, Restaurant Progress is a 30-seat passion project conceived by Chef TJ Culp that features an open kitchen, elegant bar, and quiet patio that serve as an intimate backdrop for the type of dinner you can build an evening’s conversation around.

Spirited takes on classic cocktails as well as novel wine pairings from the neighboring Montecito Bottle Shop’s curated collection foreshadow the level of thought reflected in the constantly evolving dinner menu. Guests are given the option of ordering a la carte or “Leave it to the Kitchen” for a seven-course tasting menu ($150 per couple). Recent standouts from the autumn menu include Point Reyes oysters decadently stacked with steak tartare and caviar; a shaved Brussel sprout version of a Waldorf salad with walnut vinaigrette, blue cheese, apples, and grapes; roasted butternut squash with farro, sage, and pepitas; and an addictively spicy Creste di Gallo Rague pasta with Calabrian chili, olives, and Grana Padano cheese. Designed to offer 18 rotating dishes (essentially six cold appetizers, six hot appetizers, and six entrees), there’s always something new to sample – especially for those intrigued by lesser used ingredients like saba, guanciale, and gremolata. Entering its fifth year, the hospitality staff at Restaurant Progress has clearly grown into a cohesive team that takes pride in their craft. Concise descriptions and subtle beverage service avoid unnecessary

breaks in the meal and allow the staff to focus on expediting courses without lulls in the pacing of dinner. A seasoned leader in front of house operations, Sommelier Oscar Avila is an inspiring source of recommendations for wine pairings from reserve vintages as well as emerging producers. Similarly, mixologist Manny Peña is an expert at balancing cocktails as well as engaging with guests seated at the bar.

The kitchen and staff clearly value the opportunity to create a dialogue with guests looking for a new perspective on contemporary dining in Phoenix. From the historic architectural details and décor to the kaleidoscope of colors and flavors in the cuisine at Progress, it’s readily apparent that this neighborhood gem is positioned to become a cornerstone among the emerging generation of restaurants in the Valley.

Restaurant Progress and the Montecito Bottle Shop are located at 702 West Montecito Avenue in the Melrose District. Reservations can be made by calling (602) 441-0553 or visiting www.exploretock. com. Accommodations are available for dietary restrictions or allergies with advance notice.