TRENDS IN DINING
Restaurant Progress – Unique to the Melrose District By Nicholas D. Butler Among the constellation of upstart restaurants that have recently opened in Uptown Phoenix, Restaurant Progress is a star that beckons to diners looking for a fresh perspective. Nestled in the former Melrose Pharmacy building, Restaurant Progress is a 30-seat passion project conceived by Chef TJ Culp that features an open kitchen, elegant bar, and quiet patio that serve as an intimate backdrop for the type of dinner you can build an evening’s conversation around. Spirited takes on classic cocktails as well as novel wine pairings from the neighboring Montecito Bottle Shop’s curated collection foreshadow the level of thought reflected in the constantly evolving dinner menu. Guests are given the option of ordering a la carte or “Leave it to the Kitchen” for a seven-course tasting menu ($150 per couple). Recent standouts from the autumn menu include Point Reyes oysters decadently stacked with steak tartare and caviar; a shaved Brussel sprout version of a Waldorf salad with walnut vinaigrette, blue cheese, apples, and grapes; roasted butternut squash with farro, sage, and pepitas; and an addictively spicy Creste di Gallo Rague pasta with Calabrian chili, olives, and Grana Padano cheese. Designed to offer 18 rotating dishes (essentially six cold appetizers, six hot appetizers, and six entrees), there’s always something new to sample – especially for those intrigued by lesser used ingredients like saba, guanciale, and gremolata.
44
Entering its fifth year, the hospitality staff at Restaurant Progress has clearly grown into a cohesive team that takes pride in their craft. Concise descriptions and subtle beverage service avoid unnecessary
