TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2018
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BBQ REVIEWS
compare and contrast Winterville, Benson spots Greg Cox for Triangle Today On paper, Sam Jones BBQ and The Redneck BBQ Lab are as different as two North Carolina barbecue joints could be. One is rooted in generations of family tradition. The other is a newcomer by barbecue joint standards, but has earned an impressive reputation on the national barbecue competition circuit. One cooks whole hogs the traditional way, over seasoned oak embers in an open pit. The other smokes Boston butts on the same cookers it uses in competitions. One has gone beyond the Eastern North Carolina-style pork that has been the foundation of the family reputation for more than six decades to offer a variety of other smoked meats, but still sticks with the time-tested method. The other bills its approach as “BBQ with a scientific twist,” with experiments yielding everything from house-made pastrami to hog jowl bacon cornbread. One serves beer. The other doesn’t. You get the idea. Still, Sam Jones BBQ and The Redneck BBQ Lab do share a couple of noteworthy features. Both are counter service restaurants, for starters. And both merit inclusion in any list of North Carolina’s barbecue elite.
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Redneck BBQ Lab’s pulled pork sandwich is served with slaw on a soft bun and pickled onions and okra on the side.Juli Leonard
year for Best Chef: Southeast.
Some children are born with a silver spoon in their mouth. Sam Jones was born with a cleaver in each hand. That’s what he was wielding the first time I ever saw him many years ago, working at the chopping block of the Skylight Inn, the restaurant his grandfather Pete Jones founded in 1947 in Ayden. The place was several decades old by then (Jones couldn’t have been much more than a teenager), and had already won national acclaim as one of the South’s premier barbecue joints. Pete Jones died in 2006, and the Skylight Inn is now operated by Sam Jones along with his father, Bruce Jones, and uncle, Jeff Jones. They preserve the pit-cooked whole hog tradition that earned the restaurant the pres- SAM JONES BBQ tigious James Beard America’s Classics Award in 2003. 715 W. Fire Tower Road, Winterville But he itched to expand his barbecue horizons. 252-689-6449 or samjonesbbq.com He scratched that itch in 2015, opening Sam Jones BBQ a few miles south of Greenville and earned his first nomination for a James Beard Award earlier this
THE REDNECK BBQ LAB 12101-B NC Hwy. 210, Benson 919-938-8334 or redneckbbqlab.com
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2018
AT DUSK
for the holidays
December 4th or 5th, 6 to 8 p.m. | The Mayton Inn, Cary | Get tickets at indulgeatdusk.com
Enjoy indulgent treats, live music, a signature Cheerwine cocktail, a decadent spirits-infused culinary competition and, of course, a visit from the Jolly Old Elf himself.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2018
weekend fun DOWNTOWN DURHAM PRESENTS DURHAM HOLIDAY PARADE & FUN FEST Saturday, December 8, 10 a.m. Downtown Durham - Main Street Kick off the holiday season at the Durham Holiday Parade & Fun Fest! GARDEN SUPPLY COMPANY PRESENTS BREAKFAST WITH MRS. CLAUS 1421 Old Apex Rd., Cary, NC 27513 It‘s the most wonderful time of the year here at Garden Supply! We are excited to welcome back Mrs. Claus for our annual Breakfast with Mrs. Claus event! Join us for a continental breakfast (muffins, fruit, juice, etc.), a story read by Mrs. Claus, and photo opportunities. Be sure to bring your letter for Santa that Mrs. C can take back to the North Pole for you. We will have pony rides available on 12/1 and 12/15 from 11am-1pm! Space for this event is limited, so please be sure to register in advance (when registering, you only need tickets for the children attending). We will begin promptly at 9am! CRANK ARM BREWERY PRESENTS TOUR DE TOYS 319 W Davie Street Raleigh, NC 27601 Entry fee is a new unwrapped toy for the Raleigh Women’s Shelter! Doors open at 9:00 to accept Toys and we will accept toys throughout the event so plan accordling based on your start time.
A FEAST FOR ALL THE SENSES: BRUNCH INSIDE A MUSEUM Saturday, 11:30 am, Sunday, 10:30 am North Carolina Museum of Art 2110 Blue Ridge Rd, Raleigh Iris, the Museum’s full-service restaurant, serves contemporary American cuisine with regional and international flavors. Specializing in seasonal fare using many locally sourced ingredients, Iris features culinary works of art that showcase a complex culture of flavors. Brunch highlights include the Oak City Benedict on a sweet potato biscuit, Belgian waffles, design-your-own omelets, chicken salad, burgers and more. Read more at events.triangletoday.com
TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
Whether singing backup for Bowie or solo, music comes naturally for Catherine Russell Ed Condron for Triangle Today
David Bowie sat on a train during his 2002 tour in support of his “Heathen” album, clutching a doctor’s bag and sporting a vintage Armani suit while the cameras went crazy. “Don’t worry, it’s not always like this,” Bowie explained to Catherine Russell after the dramatic photo shoot. “He looked like Elliott Ness from ‘The Untouchables,’” Russell recalls while calling from her New York apartment. ”David didn’t have to tell me that the shoot was not a day in his average life, but he did.”
all kinds of music and I always have, but when it comes to singing, I’m a jazz person.” The Grammy nominee has released four albums, including her latest, “Harlem On My Mind,” since parting with Bowie. “I get to express myself as a solo artist,” Russell says. “I enjoy it.”
Russell, 62, who was Bowie’s backup vocalist during the early century tours, has been familiar with the world of music. Her mother and father were musicians. Her father, the late Luis Russell, was Louis Armstrong’s bandleader. Her vocalist mother, the late Carline Ray, was part of the International Sweethearts of Rhythm. “I knew some things while growing up in a house in which music was always playing,” Russell says. “Even though my father died when I was young, I knew about what he did, and my mother was always very supportive. Through her I learned about the business.” The jazz singer started out a little later than her peers. “Even with all of the knowledge I had, I still had to figure out how to make a living at music.” Russell will perform two sets Dec. 6 as part of Duke Performances’ In the Jazz Tradition Festival, which highlights women jazz singers. The concert series, from Dec. 3 to 10, also features Nnenna Freelon, Cecile McLorin Salvant, Nellie McKay, Jazzmeia Horn, Rene Marie, Kate McGarry, Charles Lloyd and Lucinda Williams and the NCCU Vocal Jazz Ensemble. Russell got her start as a backup vocalist and enjoyed a great deal of success. The entertainer recorded and toured with Paul Simon, Cyndi Lauper and Madonna. “Singing backup was always very easy for me since I love singing harmony,” Russell says. “I never tried to be a star. I just want to sing.” When Bowie ended his career as a touring musician, Russell focused on her solo act and began recording albums filled with jazz standards. “It’s what comes natural to me,” Russell says. “I love
Catherine Russell will perform two sets Dec. 6 at the Durham Fruit and Produce Company in Durham as part of Duke Performances. Sandrine Lee
CATHERINE RUSSELL, PART OF DUKE PERFORMANCES’ IN THE JAZZ TRADITION FESTIVAL When: 7 and 9 p.m. Dec. 6 Where: Durham Fruit and Produce Company, 305 S. Dillard St., Durham Tickets: $25 Info: 919-684-4444 dukeperformances.duke.edu In the Jazz Tradition: The concert series, from Dec. 3 to Dec. 10, also features Nnenna Freelon, Cecile McLorin Salvant, Nellie McKay, Jazzmeia Horn, Rene Marie, Kate McGarry, Charles Lloyd and Lucinda Williams and the NCCU Vocal Jazz Ensemble. Horn, Russell, Freelon and McGarry will take part in a moderated discussion Dec. 7 at noon at The Pinhook, 117 W. Main St., Durham. Admission is free. it will be moderated by Duke professor and Emmy-nominated producer Natalie Bullock Brown. A light lunch will be provided by Pie Pushers pizza.
Learn more at triangletoday.com.
TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
Renowned pitmaster Sam Jones to open a Raleigh barbecue restaurant Drew Jackson for Triangle Today
It takes an hour and 27 minutes to get from Raleigh to the back door of the Skylight Inn, but Jones said the same barbecue tradition there will be the centerpiece of what goes on at Sam Jones BBQ in Raleigh.
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2018
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“There’s no other way to recreate whole hog barbecue, the fat rendering, dripping down over hot coals, sizzling, the plume of smoke rising, there’s nothing else you can do to get it like that,” Jones said in an interview.
Sam Jones, owner of Sam Jones BBQ in Winterville in the smokehouse he built next to his restaurant in 2016. N&O file photo
Sam Jones, known for cooking some of the most acclaimed whole hog barbecue in the South, is coming to Raleigh. The fourth-generation pitmaster and James Beard semifinalist is opening his second Sam Jones BBQ restaurant at 502 W. Lenoir St., in the former Dusty’s Garage near Boylan Heights, he said, forecasting an opening next fall. His first Sam Jones BBQ opened in 2015 near Greenville. It’s eight miles from his family’s legendary Skylight Inn in Ayden, a modest brick restaurant topped by a silver Capitol dome, self-proclaiming it as the center of the barbecue universe.
“The barbecue at Skylight and Sam Jones BBQ is exactly the same, but the experience is different,” he said. “This will still be Sam Jones barbecue, and (diners) will still be eating a piece of North Carolina history.” The Jones family opened the Skylight Inn in 1947 as a bare bones operation, serving chopped whole hog barbecue in the Eastern North Carolina way and staying much the same ever since. Skylight is owned by Sam’s father, Bruce, and uncle Jeff Jones and is operated by about a dozen employees, including Sam. Sam Jones looked at five sites in the Raleigh area for his venture beyond Eastern North Carolina, but came back to a building he first heard about from chef and friend Ashley Christensen, who owns several restaurants in downtown Raleigh.
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WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 5, 2018
TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
Discover Your Dream Home Today! From the 400's • Rolesville • Ranch Plans Available
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If you are looking for the perfect place to call home, you have found it here featuring new homes with gourmet kitchens, open floor plans and quality craftsmanship of award-winning builders. Barrington has 50 beautiful new home sites on 1/3-acre lots. Enjoy the peace and tranquility of living in Rolesville with a high quality of life, great schools, shopping, dining, parks, and sense of a small community, while only minutes away from Wake Forest, Raleigh and RTP.
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Directions: From US 1/Capital Blvd turn right on Burlington Mills Rd. Barrington is 4.5 miles down on the left. From 401 N./Louisburg Rd. turn left onto Burlington Mills Rd. Turn right into Barrington.
Directions: Take Capital Blvd/Rt-1 North; Take a Right on Burlington Mills Road; Take a Left onto Forestville Road; Community will be ahead on the Right.
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Winsford at the Park boasts four spacious floorplans designed with the utmost privacy in mind, featuring contemporary interiors, comfortable living spaces and luxurious features. Winsford at the Park homeowners will have the opportunity to enjoy a swimming pool and large open spaces. This community's easily accessible location in the Research Triangle Park offers the ultimate in location, affordability, and convenience.
Directions: Take US-1 N/Capital Blvd North to Wake Forest. Turn right onto Harris Rd. Turn right onto W Oak Ave and The Bluffs at Joyner Park will be on your left
Directions: From Raleigh; take I-440 W to exit 4B for I-40 W toward Durham. Continue on I-40 W to NC-147 N. Take exit 8 for Ellis Rd. Turn left on Ellis Rd, Community will be on the right.
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