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WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2018

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DeeLuxe Chicken

NOW OPEN IN DURHAM

Drew Jackson for Triangle Today DeeLuxe Chicken, a new fast-casual chicken joint with a fine dining pedigree, opened Sept. 12 on Broad Street in the former Oval Park Grille space. The new counter-service spot specializes in the fried arts and is owned by chefs Scott Howell and Rick Robinson, who first met nearly 30 years ago working together at Durhamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Magnolia Grill. The menu is built around fried chicken, of course, with dark and light quarters served with a side. The menu also includes grilled chicken and tenders. Things on a bun include a chicken sandwich not dissimilar from the one served at a certain closed-onSundays spot, plus one dressed with apple and celery root slaw and a spicy mayo. Out of the ordinary sandwiches include a rare ahi tuna steak with slaw and a portobello-cap burger.

Fast-casual fried chicken joint DeeLuxe Chicken is now open in Durham. DeeLuxe Chicken

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WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2018

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TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER

Durham’s Guglhupf finally adds a bar Drew Jackson for Triangle Today

HILL RIDGE FARMS PRESENTS 2018 FALL PUMPKIN FESTIVAL The best pumpkin party around! Great food, fun and memories are waiting for you and your family at Hill Ridge Farms through Nov. 3. Open daily 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.; all October Saturdays open 9am-9pm. AMERICAN TOBACCO CAMPUS PRESENTSPOP-UP AT ATC FEATURING BORICUA S OUL Wednesday-Friday, Sept, 26-28 Boricua Soul will feature classic Puerto Rican and Southern food like empanadas, tostones, pernil, collard greens, mac and cheese, and BBQ. They also mix aspects of both cuisines to create foods like chopped BBQ-filled empanadas, and griddle-fried cornbread filled with Puerto Rican and Caribbean-inspired meats and vegetables. Lunch 11 am - 2 pm; Dinner Friday 5 - 8 pm RALEIGH STATE FARMERS MARKET PRESENTS APPLE DAY Thursday, Sept. 27 Enjoy fresh North Carolina apples, an apple dessert and more 2018 TRIANGLE WALK TO END ALZHEIMER’S AT THE NORTH CAROLINA MUSEUM OF ART 2110 Blue Ridge Rd Raleigh, NC 27607 Saturday, September 29, 8:30 AM HASENTREE COLOR RUN 1112 Keith Road Wake Forest, 27587 Saturday, Sept. 29, 8:50 AM

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After 20 years as a bakery and a decade as a cafe and restaurant, German bakery Guglhupf is loosening the top button of its collar and raising a frothy beer mug. Known for intricate pastries and breads and as a weekend brunch hot spot, Guglhupf is turning its afternoon and dinner service into more of a German biergarten kind of vibe. In an era of dining where casual is king, co-founder and owner Claudia Kemmet-Cooper worries that evenings at Guglhupf can come across as stuffy. The bakery started in 1998 and expanded to a cafe in 2004, with dinner coming along in 2009, though little about the building had changed. The time had come to shake things up, she said. More than anything, that meant adding a bar. “I’m a bar diner,” Kemmet-Cooper said. “I think it gives off a more casual vibe. You can’t be a biergarten without a bar. ... It’s hard to do if you don’t have a bar. At night it wasn’t right; it didn’t feel right anymore.” The new Guglhupf bar runs along the wall of the two-story dining room, backed up by windows looking out on an expansive patio. Kemmet-Cooper calls it Gugi-land, tucked off of the Durham-Chapel Hill Boulevard, the modernist building of metal, wood, glass and angles becoming its own kind of secluded oasis trading in life’s finer things, namely cakes, sausages and beer. Something happened, Kemmet-Cooper said, when Guglhupf first started serving dinner in 2009. It fell in with fine dining. Perhaps it was the entrees that exceeded $20 or the romantically dim setting, but Kemmet-Cooper said Guglhupf may have felt less approachable than her ideal. Now, she said it’s closer than ever. “We were kicked into the fine dining category,” Kemmet-Cooper said. “There’s nothing wrong with that label, but with the development (in Durham) and the economy, fine dining is just kind of ... gone. Having the outside area, the bar, I think that’s what it should be. For me it’s really exciting, it’s finally at its best.”

Guglhupf was never a teetotaler, but now the bar is an anchor and stage for its evolving list of libations. Draft beer expands from just a handful of options to a dozen, mostly German, but with more taps for American craft beer, including locals like Trophy Brewing in Raleigh, plus a Cava and a cider. Guglhupf’s bottled beer list has stood out in the area for offering many German styles hard to come by. But as draft becomes the focus, the bottles will be pared down to a few from Germany and Belgium and the United States. Kemmet-Cooper said wines will continue to focus on Germany and Austria, but be more approachable. If you’re looking for something special, she said she still has that, a bottle list she calls her secret stash. Also there are more bottles of liquor and craft cocktails. “I don’t know, something about approaching middle-age, I needed a bar and needed more brown liquor,” Kemmet-Cooper said. For food, Kemmet-Cooper said it could appear stark to move from the casualness of lunch at the cafe to dinner. To bridge the two Guglhupf has added a “brotzeit” menu, essentially bread with charcuterie and cheese, including cured meats and house-made smoked bluefish, pickled trout and mushroom pate. Dinner also adds more small plates and keeps many of the classics. “Now you can nosh all the way through the afternoon and into dinner,” Kemmet-Cooper said. In the 20 years of Guglhupf, Durham’s dining scene has become the city’s calling card, led especially by its downtown. When she started, Kemmet-Cooper, who trained in Germany, said people asked if her bakery carried any biscuits. It didn’t, but she said no one seems to mind anymore.