TRIANGLE TODAY | THE NEWS & OBSERVER
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2018
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FUN FINDER
on page 2 from Kids Town!
MODERN TAKE ON TWO TRADITIONAL CONCEPTS
TONBO RAMEN
Greg Cox for Triangle Today
In Japan, ramen is such a popular fast-food option that shops (including chain restaurants, some with hundreds of locations) can be found on practically every street corner.
an eye-opening number of these two-in-one establishments (among them Dashi in Durham) that have sprung up all over the country in recent years.
In this case “fast food” doesn’t necessarily mean mass-produced mediocrity from a traditional fast-food chain. At many independent shops, called ramen-ya, and even some of the chains, the bowls are filled with long-simmered broths and quality ingredients.
Now we can add Tonbo Ramen to the list. Tonbo, the latest venture of Plaza Associates, the group that owns three area Kanki restaurants, opened in February in a renovated century-old building that was once home to a tailor shop. Transforming the space into a restaurant with an urban-rustic decor while preserving elements of the historic building’s character, the owners have set a mood that’s at once austere and cozy — just right for this distinctly American take on Japanese culture.
The izakaya is an utterly different kind of establishment, where drinks (traditionally sake, but increasingly beer and other tipples) and small plates are enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Think tapas bar meets speakeasy, Japanese-style. If the two concepts strike you as unlikely candidates for combining in a single restaurant, it doesn’t take long to dispel that notion. Google “ramen shop” and “izakaya” in the same search bar, and you’ll turn up
The fact that the restaurant occupies two floors is a bonus, allowing each concept — downstairs ramen bar and upstairs izakaya — to retain the character of the genre that inspired it.
See Greg’s complete review at triangletoday.com.
The Tonkatsu Ramen bowl at Tonbo Ramen in downtown Raleigh.
As the days cool down, the fun heats up at Kids Town! TRIANGLE TODAY’S
Juli Leonard
TONBO RAMEN 211 S. Wilmington St.,Raleigh tonboramen.com Cuisine: Japanese Rating: 3 1/2 stars Atmosphere: urban-rustic Recommended: ramen, buns, spring mix salad, yakimono (especially eggplant, pork belly and chicken thigh), karaage, grilled shishito peppers
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